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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Travels Through North America, v. 1-2 - During the Years 1825 and 1826. - -Author: Berhard Saxe-Weimar Eisenach - -Release Date: January 24, 2013 [EBook #41913] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS *** - - - - -Produced by Louise Hope, Chris Curnow and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -[This e-text comes in three forms: Unicode (UTF-8), Latin-1 and ASCII. -Use the one that works best on your text reader. - - --If "oe" displays as a single character, and apostrophes and - quotation marks are "curly" or angled, you have the UTF-8 version - (best). If any part of this paragraph displays as garbage, try - changing your text reader's "character set" or "file encoding". - If that doesn't work, proceed to: - --In the Latin-1 version, "oe" is two letters, but French words like - "étude" have accents and "æ" is a single letter. Apostrophes and - quotation marks will be straight ("typewriter" form). Again, if you - see any garbage in this paragraph and can't get it to display - properly, use: - --The ASCII-7 or rock-bottom version. All necessary text will still - be there; it just won't be as pretty. - -Footnotes are numbered continuously within each volume. Bracketed -paragraphs are in the original. - -Typographical errors and anomalies-- whether corrected or not-- are -listed at the end of the e-text.] - - - * * * * * - * * * * - * * * * * - - - TRAVELS - - through - NORTH AMERICA, - - during the - YEARS 1825 AND 1826. - - * * * - - By His Highness, - BERNHARD, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR EISENACH. - - * * * - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - * * * - - VOL. I. - - * * * - - PHILADELPHIA: - CAREY, LEA & CAREY--CHESNUT STREET. - Sold in New York by G. & C. Carvill. - - * * * - - 1828. - - - - -EASTERN DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit: - -Be it remembered, that on the seventh day of October, in the fifty-third -year of the independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1828, -Carey, Lea and Carey of the said district, have deposited in this office -the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the -words following, to wit: - -"Travels through North America, during the years 1825 and 1826. By his -highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. In two volumes." - -In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, -entituled, "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the -copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of -such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act, -entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, 'An act for the -encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and -books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times -therein mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of -designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints." - - D. CALDWELL, - Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. - - Skerrett--Ninth Street, - Philadelphia. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The following journal was by no means originally designed for -publication. I wrote it during my travels, partly to recall past -incidents at a future period, partly to give, with more ease and -certainty, information to my much-honoured parents, my relatives, and -friends, on any subject, upon which inquiry might be made. After my -return, the book was read by several, for whose perusal it had not been -altogether intended. Many judicious persons imagined that it would be of -interest to a larger number of readers, and variously and repeatedly -requested its publication, in order to give it a more extensive -circulation. As I could not easily withstand these solicitations, and -besides met with an experienced and worthy person, Counsellor Luden, -to whom, as editor, I might without hesitation entrust the whole -manuscript, I yielded; whether with propriety or not, I cannot tell. - -As to the voyage itself, I have nothing to say, either with regard to -its cause or design. The idea of visiting America, occupied me, almost -from my earliest years. Why this idea arose, or why it continued in my -mind, is not a matter of much moment. The chief reason was, I wished to -see the new world; the country; the people; their conditions and -institutions; their customs and manners. The more I became acquainted -with the old world, the more my desire to see the new increased. - -The state and relations of the European countries, however, and the -duties by which I deem myself bound, as a military man, to the country, -to which I had dedicated my services, precluded the hope of an early -accomplishment of my design. Still I made the necessary preparations as -far as my situation and circumstances allowed, so that the voyage might -not be made at a future time without some advantage. At last Europe -appeared to have attained a degree of tranquillity which would permit an -absence of a year or eighteen months, without a fear on my part that I -should fail in any of my engagements. His majesty, the King of the -Netherlands, whom I have the honour to serve, not only allowed me the -requisite time, but also granted me a passage in the Pallas, a royal -sloop of war, commanded by Captain-Lieutenant Ryk, a gallant, -highly-esteemed, and experienced seaman. - -Under which order of travellers I am to be ranked, according to poor -Yorick's classification, is submitted to the decision of the kind -reader. - - BERNHARD, - _Duke of Saxe-Weimar_. - -Ghent, May 20, 1827. - - - - -TRAVELS, &c. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - _Departure from Ghent.-- Sojourn at Hellevoetsluis.-- Arrival at - Spithead._ - - -On the 4th of April, 1825, I set out from Ghent for Antwerp. This -ancient and noble city is in every point of view interesting; to the -admirers of the fine arts, on account of the unique treasures she -possesses; to the military observer for her long defence against the -army of the Duke of Parma, and for her military and maritime importance -obtained in modern times through him who long guided the destiny of -Europe; and to the philanthropist, who derives satisfaction from the -increasing prosperity of mankind, for numerous reasons. Long the victim -of politics and the jealousy of her neighbours, which kept the mighty -Scheld, the harbour of Antwerp, blockaded, she now powerfully lifts her -head above her rivals, and her commerce, nearly as flourishing as under -the Hanseatic league, is annually becoming more extensive, thanks to the -foresight of the wise prince whom Providence has placed at the head of -our country's government. - -A government yacht received us at Antwerp, and with a fair wind and most -delightful spring weather, conveyed us, by the evening of the 6th of -April, to the road of Hellevoetsluis, where the corvette Pallas was -lying at anchor, which had orders to sail on the following day. The -first part of the voyage to Hellevoetsluis is down the Scheld; the -beautiful steeple of the cathedral of Antwerp long remains in sight; the -forts on both shores attract the attention of military men, and perhaps -remind them of the remains of the great bridge between forts St. Mary -and St. Philip, by which Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma, crossed the -stream and forced the city to surrender. - -At an hour's sail below Antwerp, the Scheld forms a large basin, and -divides into two arms the East and West Scheld, which are separated by -the island of _Zuid-Beveland_. The West Scheld is the deepest, and flows -into the North Sea: we sailed on the eastern branch to the place of our -destination. - -A century ago South Beveland was well cultivated, and contained a town -and numerous villages: it was swallowed up by the water, and still -remains overflowed. It may be reserved for the creative spirit peculiar -to our existing government and its illustrious chief, to give employment -to the plough of the industrious farmer on the spot where at present the -poor fisherman protracts a wretched existence. - -We afterwards left the East Scheld, and sailed past several well -cultivated islands, protected against the violence of the stormy waves -by artificial dams. We entered upon the stream formed by the confluence -of the Maas and Rhine, and advanced immediately to Hellevoetsluis, -whence in former times the victorious fleets of Holland frequently -sailed to the remotest parts of the world, and dictated terms to her -enemies. The ships which convey the treasures of the tropical regions to -the rich city of Rotterdam, or carry the products of our own industry, -as well as the defenders of our extensive possessions, are often -obliged, by contrary winds, to remain here for various periods. Hence -Hellevoetsluis is generally very lively. - -The corvette _Pallas_, in which our government permitted me to sail for -America, was a new vessel, fitted out as an instruction ship. -A selection of young naval officers was made for this voyage, as -midshipmen. To these were added a young naval architect named TROMP, -a worthy descendant of historically renowned ancestors, whose deep -knowledge, distinguished talents, and estimable character, I became -acquainted with and cherished in the course of the voyage. These -selected officers were entrusted to the direction of Captain _Ryk_, one -of our most approved commanders,[I-1] who had orders to visit some of -the principal English and American naval depôts, in order to acquire -whatever knowledge might best promote the interests of his country. On -this account the corvette was fitted out rather as a packet ship than a -man of war. She had no long guns on deck, except two long sixes in the -bows as chase guns; her battery consisted of eighteen twenty-four pound -carronades. I was established in the captain's cabin, and a swinging cot -was suspended at night for my sleeping place. - - [Footnote I-1: For the benefit of my readers who are not - military, I subjoin the names of offices in our navy, and their - correspondence in rank with army offices:-- - - Admiral is equal to General. - Vice-admiral " " Lieutenant-general. - Rear-admiral " " Major-general. - Captain " " Colonel. - Captain-lieutenant " " Lieutenant-colonel. - Lieutenant of the first class " " Captain. - Lieutenant of the second class " " First lieutenant.] - -In consequence of contrary winds and other causes which it is needless -to mention, the corvette could not sail as quickly as ordered. In the -mean time I stayed at Hellevoetsluis, and employed my forced leisure in -examining this small town and its vicinity. - -Hellevoetsluis contains upwards of two thousand inhabitants, among whom -there is scarcely a poor one to be found. The town properly consists of -but one street, on both sides of the harbour, having walled quays, and -united by a double drawbridge, built two years ago. Where the town -terminates, the dock-yard commences, which contains most of the -fortifications. Near the dock-yard are the barracks, which can, if -necessary, contain two thousand men. The frigate Rhine lay in harbour as -guard-ship. There was one ship repairing in the dock, none building. For -the purpose of repairing there is, behind the basin of the dock-yard, -a dry, terrace-shaped, walled basin, or _dry dock_, large enough for a -ship. When the ship is brought into this dock, the gates are closed, and -the water pumped out by a steam machine of thirty horse-power. This -being done, the ship is dry, and may be examined on all sides. When the -repairs are completed, the gates are again opened, the water admitted, -and the ship floated out. A _boat-gate_ is better adapted to this -purpose: a boat-gate consists of a box which exactly enters the canal -leading to the dry dock: when brought to the place where it is to be -used, a quantity of water is admitted sufficient to sink it to the level -of the shores, and then it forms a bridge. When it is necessary to open -the gate, the water is pumped out, and the box is withdrawn from the -canal. The frigate _Kenau Hasselaar_ was in the basin getting ready for -sea, and with the crew of the guard-ship under command of Captain -Dibbetz, she was to sail for the East Indies. The frigates _Scheld_, -_Maas_, _Yssel_, and _Java_, with the brig _Havic_, and about twenty -gun-boats, were laid up in ordinary. One of the gun-boats was built -after a _Danish_ model, which allows the upper part of the rudder to be -taken down and two ports to be opened, by which the stern can be used in -battery. The magazines and smithies are not large, but are kept in very -neat order. - -The admiralty have a very large building here which is used as the -residence of the marine commander in chief. From a belvidere of this -house there is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding country. In -the former, the frigate _Amstel_, corvette _Pallas_, brig _De Gier_, and -transport-ship _Zeemeeuw_ rode at anchor, the two latter bound to the -Mediterranean. In the dock-yard we remarked a very large mast-crane, -which may be seen far at sea, and serves mariners as a landmark. There -is also a light-house upon one of the two dams which secure the harbour, -also built two years ago. - -[From the 11th to the 25th of April, contrary winds detained the -corvette at Hellevoetsluis, during which time an excursion was made to -_Goedereede_, _Stellendam_, &c. After various changes of winds, and a -storm while lying at anchor, nothing of interest occurred until four -P. M. of the 25th, when the ship weighed anchor and stood out to sea.] - -Fair wind and good weather continued until the forenoon of the 27th. -About four o'clock we saw the English coast, being the North Foreland, -not far from Margate. Here we were obliged to steer to the left to enter -the Channel, in order to reach Portsmouth and avoid the dangerous -_Goodwin Sands_. At the same time the barometer had fallen, the air was -thick and rainy, and a disagreeable south-west wind began to blow. The -passage between these sand-banks was by no means pleasant; the wind was -quite boisterous and almost stormy; we lost all hope of reaching the -Channel during this day, and were forced to be content with beating -about in our perilous situation. The motion of the ship became very -vehement towards evening, and I became sea-sick; it was not so bad while -I remained motionless in my cot. During the night the ship was in a very -dangerous situation, and Captain _Ryk_ remained all the time on deck. -The lead was regularly thrown during the night. In attempting to get -into my cot, which was very much inclined, and the ship giving a heavy -lurch at the same time, I received a heavy fall on my head, which, -however, was not productive of much injury. On the morning of the 28th -the wind was somewhat lighter, and we discovered that during the night -we had been in a situation of extreme danger, and had reason to be -thankful to the great Creator for our safety. The weather gradually -cleared up, and we enjoyed with great satisfaction the noble prospect of -the English coast. Immediately ahead lay Margate with the southern shore -of the Thames; farther to the left, Ramsgate, and still farther, Deal. -We were moreover surrounded by shipping, and in the Downs we saw the -English ship of the line, Ramilies, which cruised this year on this -station, lying at anchor. - -The wind was now westerly, and our commander having no wish to pass -another night as dangerously as the preceding, resolved to cast anchor -in the Downs. This determination led me to think of landing at Deal, -going to London for a day, and then returning to Portsmouth. In the -course of the day, however, an east wind sprung up, which changed all -our resolutions. We passed the cape of South Foreland, and entered the -Channel prosperously, where we saw the high chalk rock between Deal and -Dover, with several castles, and Dover itself, with its ancient and -strong castle, near the ruins, &c. We were also delighted with a -beautiful view of the French coast, the white rocks of which were -illumined by the sun. The wind, as we passed by Dover, was very light, -the current was against us, and during the night it rained and blew. The -anchor was consequently dropped, and we remained off Dover till one -o'clock the following day. In the mean time the weather improved, though -the wind continued to be very slight and unfavourable. I embraced this -opportunity to visit Dover, in company with Captain _Ryk_, his nephew, -and Mr. Tromp. We breakfasted at Wright's hotel, in which, eighteen -months before I had stayed with my family, and at that time took a walk -to the fortified camp, that lies westwardly from the town, on an -important height. To this place we ascended by stairs cut about twenty -years ago. A subterranean passage leads from the town to the foot of -these stairs. For a supply of water a well was dug through the rock to -the depth of about two hundred feet, and to this well three stairs were -cut of two hundred and sixty-eight steps each. These stairways are wide -enough to allow two men to walk conveniently abreast. They terminate in -a funnel-shaped excavation, whence a stone staircase leads towards four -terrace-shaped barracks, built one above the other. Somewhat higher is a -pentagonal redoubt, also employed as a barrack, in which at this time a -detachment of artillery, the only garrison of Dover was quartered. The -redoubt forms the right wing of the position. From this point an -irregular line of masonry, partly hewed out of the rock, runs to the -left wing, where there is an oblong quadrangular fort. In front of this -fort is a tolerably deep valley, through which the London road passes. -We were delighted with the view of this beautiful vale and the fresh -green of the turf. Messrs. Tromp and Ryk made a sketch of the rocks and -mountains, which would make a strong impression upon one who had not -beheld them, even upon me who am familiar with their appearance, it -produced a very agreeable feeling. From the left wing a line runs _en -crémaillère_, beside which, at an entering angle, a casemated magazine -is placed near a small fort that defends the harbour. From this line a -door opens towards the high rock called Shakspeare's Cliff, which we had -not leisure to visit. The masonry of the fortification is of brick, with -a half _revêtement_. The rock is throughout chalk, containing flint. -These flints are much employed in paving roads and streets, to the great -injury of the hoofs of horses; some houses in Dover are also built of -them. We turned back again towards the corvette, highly gratified with -our excursion. We saw two steam-boats arrive at Dover, one from Calais -and the other from Boulogne. A water spout was pointed out to me at a -distance. At one o'clock the wind began to blow fair, the anchor was -weighed, and we stood onwards with fine weather, delighted with the -continuous view of the English coast. - -On the 30th of April with a fresh wind we made the eastern point of the -Isle of Wight, where we hoisted a flag, and fired a gun for a pilot, who -did not come on board immediately. We sailed cautiously onwards, came in -sight of Portsmouth, and neared St. Helen's point, Isle of Wight. The -pilot then came on board, and steered us into Spithead road, off -Portsmouth. This town, in which I was so much pleased two years before, -has a very handsome appearance. Several ships of the line were lying in -the harbour, among which was the _Victory_, on board of which Lord -Nelson was killed. When we saw the admiral's flag floating from her -mainmast head, we saluted her with seventeen guns, which she returned -with thirteen. We anchored in the road where we found two English -corvettes, an East India company's ship, and a Portuguese frigate, which -had brought the Portuguese ambassador, the Marquis Palmella, to England. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - _Stay in England.-- Portsmouth.-- Plymouth.-- Devonport.-- - Falmouth._ - - -As the corvette was to remain, for the instruction of the midshipmen, -until all the naval establishments had been accurately examined, -I resolved to go on shore and travel from Portsmouth to Plymouth and -Falmouth, and then rejoin the corvette. On the 1st of May I went in the -boat, accompanied by Captain Ryk and Lieutenant Lejeune, to Portsmouth. -The sea ran very high, and the eight oarsmen made very little way -against the swell. As we entered the harbour where the waves were -exceedingly high, we turned so quickly that two seas struck our boat in -the side, and made us more than once fear that she would be foundered. -Nevertheless we arrived safely, though thoroughly wet. - -I remained in Portsmouth three days, and as its situation and relations -were already known to me, I spent the time in reading, writing, paying -and receiving visits, and in strolling about in interesting society. For -a similar reason I allowed myself to make desultory observations. - -According to the navy list, there are at Portsmouth sixteen ships in -actual service, mounting five hundred and eighteen guns; sixty-five -dismantled, with four thousand one hundred and forty-three guns, and -eighteen building, which are to carry seven hundred and fifty-six guns; -making a total of five thousand four hundred and seventeen guns. - -Some of the lowest class of people were masquerading in honour of the -1st of May. Most of them were dressed as Jack-puddings; others were -ornamented with bladders: they marched through the streets to the sound -of music, stopped and danced before some of the houses, and collected -money. They also had a boxing match between two boys, which was -conducted as a regular combat. As soon as one boy was down, his -antagonist ceased to strike, and his second helped him up. One, however, -did strike a blow while the other was down, whereupon several of the -bystanders rushed upon the offender, held him fast, and gave him so many -punches in the ribs that he was completely discomfited; and this -terminated the fray. In the harbour about one hundred and fifty men were -shipped as recruits for the 89th regiment, stationed in the East Indies. -They came from the depôt at the Isle of Wight, and appeared to be very -weak and miserable. - -The Marquis Palmella, who resided in the same hotel with me, set out on -the 3d of May with his family, a wife, eight children, and a numerous -suite, for London. I paid him a visit, and was introduced to his lady, -a very beautiful woman. The marquis, who is very generally esteemed, -suffered considerably during the last Portuguese counter-revolution, and -was kept prisoner for several days. During his stay at this place he has -constantly had two honorary sentries, and an hour before his departure, -a company of fifty marines, with three officers, and the band in full -uniform, marched in front of the hotel, and remained as a guard of -honour until he left Portsmouth. It was with real pleasure that I -remarked the excellent condition of this corps. - -The royal marines, whose barracks I visited, and saw the men defile, -have an exceedingly fine appearance, and are highly esteemed. The -officers are promoted according to seniority; but since the peace, the -corps has been much reduced, and the officers are old in their grades. -The officers also are mostly persons without influence, and enter the -royal marines because unable to purchase rank in the army. The barracks -for the soldiers did not altogether please me: they are better regulated -and kept more cleanly in the Netherlands. It is a good regulation that -the bedsteads are iron, and that every man lies alone; but it is very -bad on the other hand, that they cook in the same room. - -I visited, in company with Captain Ryk, the Ganges, a ship of the line -of eighty-four guns, built a few years since by Indian workmen, entirely -of Teak-wood. This hard and heavy timber is not only very lasting, but -has also the great excellence of not cracking in a warm climate. We were -received on board the ship with great attention, in the absence of -Captain Campbell, by Lieutenant Wright, who did the honours in a very -friendly manner. I cannot sufficiently admire the neatness observed in -this ship. They have an excellent mode of taking care of the rings, -bolts, weapons, and other iron, brass, and copper utensils, on board of -English ships of war. The forepart of the gun-deck is an extraordinary -apartment, the iron implements are varnished, and the others polished -and arranged along the whitewashed sides, so as to form figures and -inscriptions. When strangers visit the ship a sort of chandelier is -lighted, which produces a very beautiful effect. When we left the ship, -Lieutenant Wright had the politeness to take us in his barge to the -inner harbour, where the ships are laid up in ordinary. As we left the -Ganges, she saluted us with nineteen guns. - -Ships in commission are painted black and white; when they go into -ordinary this paint is scraped off, and they are then painted brownish -yellow; if not again to be employed in active service they are painted -entirely black. We went on board of the _Nelson_, of one hundred and -twenty guns, in the harbour. She is a new ship, but lay in ordinary, -having been already affected with the destructive _dry-rot_. The injured -planks had been removed, and at present she is entirely sound. The -Nelson, Ganges, and all the recently built ships of the line have round -sterns. All of them have the wood work necessary for their equipment, as -for gun-carriages, &c. on board. In order to preserve this and the deck -from the influence of the weather, a large roof is built over them. From -the Nelson we went on board the royal yacht, the _Royal George_, which I -had already seen, but which I willingly examined once more, on account -of her elegant construction and great luxury. The magnificence of the -royal apartments, and those for the suite, are very strongly contrasted -with the birth-deck for the crew, which is both dark and confined. We -remarked here a patent iron camboose, which cooked all the food by means -of steam. - -Having purchased the necessary provisions, especially Gamble's preserved -meats, which keep fresh for a year, I went on the 4th of May, at 4 P. M. -on board the steam ship, Sir Francis Drake, to go to Plymouth, distant -one hundred and fifty miles. The engine is of seventy horse-power. The -ship was not very comfortably arranged; the main cabin was so near the -boiler that the heat was intolerable. Our passengers amounted to thirty -persons, only eight of whom were cabin passengers. About five o'clock a -gun was fired as a signal for sailing, and we stood out to sea. Spithead -road with the shipping lay to the left, and our course was between the -land and the Isle of Wight. Cowes with its beautiful gardens presented -an agreeable sight, about a mile to the westward of which stands a -castle called Egypt. It began to grow dark. We saw on the right hand the -extremely bright lights of _Hurst-castle_, and on the left the -light-house of the Needles, on the western extremity of the Isle of -Wight, which I visited two years ago. The white rocks of the Needles -were visible in the dark, and from the effects of frequent storms have -an entirely peculiar appearance. As we passed this dangerous place, the -wind increased, and the motion of the little ship, with the continual -jarring of the steam-engine, became exceedingly disagreeable. As the -birth allotted to me was too short, I was obliged to place my mattrass -upon the floor. The heat and strokes of the adjacent steam-engine, the -coughing of a catarrhous Irishman, and the squalling of a child in the -next cabin, long prevented me from sleeping. It was not until near -morning that I began to slumber, but was soon waked again by the -insupportable heat. I sought refuge upon deck, where nearly all the -company, without excepting the captain, were unwell. - -The rocky English coast was in view in almost every direction; the town -of Dartmouth appears to be very finely situated. After a rather long and -unpleasant passage, we arrived in Plymouth Bay at 1 o'clock, P. M. We -passed a little to the left of the breakwater, a dam intended to protect -Plymouth road from the south-west storms, begun thirteen years ago, but -not yet completed: we were gratified with the view of Mount Edgecumbe -Park and Drake's Island, on which is a small fort that forms a very -beautiful view from the three towns, Plymouth, with the citadel; -Stonehouse and Plymouth Dock, now called Devonport. This dock, with all -the ships building and repairing there, furnishes a beautiful and -imposing prospect. - -After my arrival I paid a visit to the authorities of this place. The -admiral in chief, Sir James Saumarez, a worthy man, seventy years of -age, excited in me an extraordinary degree of interest. He has served -England for fifty-six years, and during the last war commanded for five -years in the Eastern Ocean. His actions are known to all the world, and -caused him to be distinguished with the grand cross of the order of the -Bath, which he has worn for twenty-four years. - -Among the remarkable things of this place, is the court-house, which is -a new, oblong building, having on one of its small sides a broad -staircase leading to a portico, with four Ionic columns. The hall is -large and very conveniently arranged with galleries for spectators. -Beneath the dock for the prisoners is a trap-door, by which persons are -brought from the prison on the ground floor, for trial, and carried back -again, without being brought into contact with the public. The six cells -for prisoners in the lower part of the house are all arched with stone, -and furnished with iron bedsteads. The doors are of stout oak plank, -studded with iron; a small opening allows air and light to enter, though -very sparingly. The prisoners can walk daily for exercise in a corridor, -twelve paces in length, by three in breadth: they have a miserable -existence. We left this granite and marble abode of sorrow with very -unpleasant impressions. Scarcely had we left it, when our eyes fell upon -a monument, building upon a rock, which is to be a column one hundred -and one feet high, commemorating the change of the name of the town, -from Plymouth Dock to Devonport. This work did not dispel the -disagreeable feeling caused by the prison. Not far distant from this -monument stands a _Gothic_ church, and near this a school-house, in the -_Egyptian_ style. The crowding together within so narrow a space of such -various styles of architecture, exhibits a singular, I cannot say an -agreeable sight. We also examined the market, which is furnished with -numerous covered galleries, in which provisions, fish for instance, are -displayed upon marble tables. But marble is so common here, that the -foot-walks are paved with it: houses are also built therewith. The -houses in Devonport are not handsome: some of the old ones are entirely -covered with slate, which produces a disagreeable impression. In the -court-house there is a fire-place made of slate. - -On the 7th of May we examined the dock-yard; there are eight ships here -in actual service, mounting three hundred and sixty-six guns; sixty-five -in ordinary, with three thousand five hundred and twenty guns, and -twenty-two building, which will mount upwards of seven hundred and -twenty; making in all, four thousand six hundred and six guns. - -The dock-yard, with its admirable regulation, is perfectly described by -Dupin in his excellent travels in Great Britain. The work is known to -most readers, and for an accurate description of the dock I refer them -thereto. The entrance is really beautiful; you behold the greater part -of the dock-yard, which is terrace-shaped, beneath you; on the right -hand is the church and some offices, opposite to which are two cannon -employed more for show than defence. The houses are built of the gray -marble-like lime-stone, which is so common here. A new magazine is -rendered entirely fire-proof by this stone and iron; the different -store-rooms being separated by iron doors, so that in case of fire it -can be insulated. The rope-walk is a building two stories high, with -walks two hundred yards long. All the ships, as in other English docks, -are built under roofs, which are sometimes covered with slate, though -mostly with copper. To my surprise, the water is pumped out of the dry -docks by a horse-mill instead of a steam-engine. In one of the dry docks -we saw the unfortunate ship Fortitudo[I-2] repairing. All her timbers -were decayed; her copper destroyed, and she required three new masts; -her repairs cost the house of _Roelands_ of Antwerp eight thousand -pounds. There is at this dock a huge iron kettle, in which ship timber -is boiled in sea water in order to protect it from the dry rot. About -two thousand two hundred men are daily employed in this yard, and some -earn thirty-six shillings a week. - - [Footnote I-2: A Netherland merchant ship, employed to carry - troops to the East Indies, whose wretched condition was not - discovered until she was in the main ocean, and was obliged to - make for Plymouth for repairs.] - -After a stay of about two hours at the dock-yard, I went in company with -the admiral to _Hamoaze_, where the fleets in service and dismantled lay -at anchor. We went on board the flag ship Britannia, and were received -in a very friendly manner by Captain Pipon, who showed us the ship -throughout: every thing was as admirable as in the ships at Portsmouth. -From the Britannia, which saluted us with twenty-one guns, we went on -board the St. Vincent, which in every respect resembled the Nelson at -Portsmouth. - -On the 6th of May, which was Sunday, and the town consequently very -quiet, I went first to visit the marine barracks, and thence to -Plymouth, which I had not yet seen. It is about a mile distant from -Stonehouse. The entrance is agreeable, exhibiting several new houses, -and a large quadrangular building, ornamented with columns, which -contains the theatre and _Royal Hotel_. But as soon as one advances a -little farther into the town the scene changes, the streets are all -narrow and precipitous, badly paved, and without side-walks; the houses -are badly built, and angular, and the sun cannot shine into the streets. -The harbour that is forming at Catwater appears to be visited, and the -bay presents a noble prospect. We passed by a road cut in the rock to -the citadel, to visit the vice-governor, Major General Sir _John -Cameron_; but he was sick. We walked round the ramparts of the citadel, -and enjoyed at every point an admirable view, to which the fine weather -contributed its full proportion. At noon we walked to Stoke, a village -in which the inhabitants of Plymouth have country seats. At this place -it is customary, as far as practicable, to bury the dead on Sunday; we -therefore met funeral processions in most of the streets, which did not -particularly raise our spirits. - -On Monday I went with Sir James Saumarez in the Britannia's barge to -examine the breakwater. We first visited the stone quarries at -_Catwater_, whence the stone for the breakwater is procured. The land -where this quarry is situated was purchased from various proprietors. -The rock, which is lime-stone, is blasted with gunpowder. Many of the -blocks of stone weigh five tons and upwards. They are lifted by iron -cranes, by which one workman is able to raise a ton and a half, and -placed upon small four wheeled iron cars, which run on rail-roads to the -quay where the vessels lay which are to convey them to the breakwater. -These vessels, which are built expressly for this service, can carry -eighteen of the heaviest of these blocks; the lighter stones are carried -in hired vessels. At the quarry we were received by the secretary of Mr. -Whitby, who planned the breakwater, and at present superintends the -work. A cave was discovered in the rock containing rhinoceros bones in -good preservation, and some time after, another cavern was found -containing the bones and teeth of bears. From the mount above the -quarry, there is an extensive and exceedingly beautiful prospect. From -this place we went to Bovisand-bay, where, under the direction of Mr. -Whitby, a quay and reservoir of fresh water is building for the navy. -The water is collected from two springs into a reservoir twenty feet -deep, situated between the hills. Thence it is to be conducted through -iron pipes for nearly an English mile to the quay. These seventeen cocks -will each deliver two and a half tuns of water a minute. The watering -boats will land at the quay, and in a very short time return with their -lading to the ships. In the valley near the reservoir is Mr. Whitby's -handsome dwelling, from which he can survey the whole work, and -consequently may from his own chamber control the workmen. - -The breakwater suffered exceedingly by the terrible storm of the 22d and -23d of November, 1824. It is now to be rendered more permanent in the -following manner:--The stones most exposed to the waves are to be hewed -and clamped together with iron. I fear, however, that this work will -also be destroyed, unless a couple of perpendicular dams be built -touching the principal dam, to break the force of the waves before they -reach the latter. The old works are in so ruinous a condition that we -were nearly wrecked upon them. On this account we stood farther off, and -went on board of the Thetis frigate to pay a visit to Sir John -Phillimore. Sir John, in honour of our presence, displayed all his -flags. The marines, with their officers, stood near the mizen-mast, and -with the crew marched round the deck; some of the latter were armed with -pikes, some with sabres, and others with battle-axes. I was delighted -with the perfect order and neatness which universally appeared. Both -cabins were very elegantly arranged and ornamented with mahogany. As we -took leave, the yards were manned, and a salute given. It was now high -water, and we passed between _Drake's Island_ and _Mount Edgecumbe_ -through a passage called the _Bridge_, which is dangerous on account of -rocks. We touched twice upon them without injury, as fortunately the -wind was slight: we landed at the beautiful stone stairs of _Mount -Wise_. - -On the day following, I visited the Marine Hospital, in company with Sir -John Phillimore. This is an admirably managed and richly endowed -institution.[I-3] The building was begun during the seven years war. It -can accommodate two thousand sick or wounded: we found but about seventy -persons in the hospital, and among these some officers and midshipmen. -It appeared to me that the plan of having eight separate buildings, each -three stories high, was a very good one, as the spreading of contagious -diseases, or of a conflagration, can be so much more easily prevented. -Each ward contains sixteen bedsteads, all of iron; the bedsteads for the -officers are of wood, and furnished with curtains. There are also beds -in the wards for the nurses, which, in all the English marine hospitals, -are females, whose attendance is preferred for its greater gentleness to -that of male assistants. The sick are brought from the ships to the -hospital by water, and go, or are carried up a wide stone stair to the -receiving office. They are then stripped and bathed in the hospital to -which they are sent, and their clothes are marked, and kept in a -particular magazine. An iron crane is employed to land those who are -badly wounded. In all the wards, as well as in the different -store-rooms, and the apothecary room, the greatest order and cleanliness -is observable. - - [Footnote I-3: For minute description of this hospital, see - Dupin.] - -The church does not appear to me to be arranged in correspondence with -the rest of the establishment. It is small, and has a store-room on the -first floor, so that the patients find it occasionally very troublesome -to attend upon worship. A covered colonnade surrounds the quadrangular -court-yard which encloses the building, under which the patients, in bad -or hot weather, can exercise. The middle of the court-yard is a -well-kept grass-plot. - -For maniac patients there is a proper house, built remote from the -others. The wash-house stands also aloof. In bad weather, the wash is -dried by steam. The wash is hung upon frames, which fold together, and -may be run in and out for the convenience of taking off the dried pieces -and adding the wet. Eight of such frames may be folded together and -occupy a very small space. There is also a very appropriately managed -bathing-house for the use of the patients, in which they may not only -have all sorts of baths, but with the greatest convenience. The -superintendents, physicians, and officers, have their dwellings in front -of the hospital, in a spacious place planted with trees. The -commissioner at the head of the institution, is Captain _Creyke_, -a pensioner, eighty years old, who first served at sea in 1759, and -accompanied Commodore _Wallis_ in his first voyage round the world. -Before we left the hospital we took a glance at his beautifully situated -and tastefully arranged house. We then visited the Plymouth Library, -established by subscription about twenty years ago, which does not yet -appear to be very rich. The establishment consists of three apartments, -the book-room, the reading-room, and the director's meeting-room. The -library serves properly for a reading club, like our literary society at -Ghent. On the 10th, I dined in company with Admiral Saumarez and Sir -John Phillimore, with the officer's mess of the twenty-fourth regiment -of infantry, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Fleming. - -On the ensuing day, the admiral accompanied us to Mount Edgecumbe Park; -this is a truly noble situation, yet, in time of war, as this position -is indispensable to the defence of the dock-yard, it is necessary to -convert it into a fortification. The ground is very advantageously -employed in the disposition and embellishment of the park: it is not -encumbered with buildings; the green and bath-house are the principal, -and in the construction of these the marble of the vicinity has been -very happily used. The trees are chiefly beech, some of them apparently -very old, sickly, and injured by the sea-air. There are also three great -cedars of Lebanon, which do not thrive well in an English park. The -Castle of Mount Edgecumbe is ancient, and externally resembles a state -prison; we did not examine it internally. We saw the monument of Lady -Mount Edgecumbe, who died in 1806, to whom the park is indebted for most -of its improvements. It is told of her that she was twice buried; the -first time she remained three days in a vault, lying in her coffin, and -was aroused by a thief cutting off her finger to steal a ring: she left -the grave, took refuge in a neighbouring house, made herself known, and -was reconveyed to her castle, where she subsequently lived several years -and gave birth to children. _Relata refero._ On the sea-shore, near the -_bridge_ that we passed two days since, Lord Mount Edgecumbe has erected -a battery of twenty-one iron six pounders, which he fires upon all -festival occasions. We embarked at this battery to visit the rock lying -in front of Stonehouse, called Devil's Point, which is to be partly -levelled to make room for a new victualling office. The work is scarcely -begun. A cellar was dug out of the rock and a wall built in the sea to -support the foundation. This was effected by means of a diving-bell. The -bell containing the workmen, remained while we were present, nearly four -hours under water. Government intends to construct a new water-reservoir -at this place, which will probably render that of Bovisand unnecessary. -Drinking water is brought to Plymouth in iron pipes from Dartmouth, -which is eighteen miles distant, so that in time of war the supply might -readily be cut off. - -Next day I went by land to visit the Castle of _Saltroun_, situated six -English miles from Plymouth at the end of Catwater, and belonging to -Lord Morlay, who resides in London. The road passes through a delightful -valley; on the right is Catwater, to the left the ruins of castles on -the heights: there are also here numerous terrace-shaped strawberry -beds, the fruit of which is exceedingly good. Close to the entrance of -the park we crossed the Catwater upon an old, very narrow, stone bridge -of five arches. Through the park, a beautiful road leads from the valley -to the loftily situated castle. It rained excessively, and as we could -see nothing from the park, we restricted ourselves to the castle, which -was built probably about sixty years ago, and has a very large apartment -in the basement. A very spacious vestibule leads to the library, in -which are a number of splendid family portraits and pictures of some -once celebrated actresses. The best picture is a portrait of Sir Joshua -Reynolds, painted by himself. Four plaster columns resembling -_verd-antique_ are excellent imitations. From the library a small -apartment opens into the picture gallery. In both rooms are several -paintings by Carlo Dolce, Andrea Del Sarto, Teniers, Wouvermans, Ostade, -Kuyp, Vandermeulen, &c. I cannot assert that all these are original -paintings. In the parlour, ball-room, and dining-hall, there are also -numerous pictures. Some of these are attributed to Angelica Kauffman, -others to Reubens, Van Dyke, Sassoferrato, Guido Rheni, Titian, -Ruysdael, Parmegiano, &c. However, I have seen the originals of many of -them at Antwerp and Ghent, and of one of the Parmegianos in Windsor -Castle. Among the statues and busts, I especially remarked a copy of the -Florentine Venus, by Canova, and a copy of Hebe by the same master. The -staircase of the castle is fine, and adorned with pictures by Angelica -Kauffman. The mantel-pieces, all of Italian marble, ornamented with -_bas-reliefs_, are also very remarkable. The bad weather accompanied us -throughout our return to Plymouth. On this occasion I remarked that the -pavement was taken up in several streets, and Macadamized, which is much -better for the horses and houses. - -[Several succeeding days were spent in excursions to different places in -the vicinity, in company with the Admiral and Sir John Phillimore; and -one day on a water party accompanied by ladies.] - -On the 19th of May, in a small boat belonging to the Fortitudo, I made, -with great pleasure, an excursion to Trematon Castle, which I had -formerly understood was once the residence of the ancient Princes of -Cornwall. Sir John Phillimore had been so polite as to inform the -proprietor, Mr. Tucker, chief director of the neighbouring mines, whose -son is an officer on board the Thetis, of our coming. On landing, we -found a carriage sent by Mr. Tucker to meet and convey us to the castle. -I observed here a water-mill, behind which was a large walled basin that -is filled by the flood tide, and closed by a gate. During the ebb tide -the gate is opened and the mill set to work. It reminded me of the -_bassins de chasse_, in some of our harbours. - -Trematon Castle is situated upon a height. Besides the walls furnished -with loop-holes which form a quadrangle, the castle consists of but two -towers, one quadrangular, which forms the entrance, and the other a -round one, somewhat higher. As Mr. Tucker holds this castle of the king, -the royal arms are over the portal. In the court-yard of the castle, Mr. -Tucker has built a tasteful house, and, by removing part of the adjacent -wall, has obtained a beautiful prospect from his dwelling, comprising a -view of most of the Hamoaze with the shipping, Anthony's Park, -Devonport, and part of Plymouth Sound. Mr. Tucker holds several -important posts in the navy, and during Fox's ministry he was secretary -to the admiralty. At the overthrow of that administration, he retired to -his native place with a pension of two thousand pounds per annum, and -the office of secretary to the duchy of Cornwall; here he is highly -esteemed, enjoys great influence, and has his property principally -vested in the mines. After receiving us in a very friendly manner, and -introducing his family, he took a seat in the carriage. - -We went eight miles further to a silver mine, the only one in England. -It belongs to a company of five stockholders, of which Mr. Tucker is the -principal. The country is very hilly, the road sometimes narrow and -steep, so that it was frequently necessary to lock the wheels. A part of -the way was over the good road from Saltash to Callington; we also -passed near to Pentilhe castle. The land is generally good, with the -exception of a heath, of which England contains a number under the name -of "commons." The silver mine is situated in a deep valley of Fulliford -common. The mine is named St. Vincent, in honour of the deceased -admiral, who was a great patron of Mr. Tucker. The mine has been but -five years in progress, and produces so little that it sinks two hundred -pounds per month for the stockholders. The vein of silver, whose -presence is judged of certainly by iron-stone, is cut at right angles by -a vein of copper. This copper they are breaking through in hopes of -greater success. The mine has five shafts; the deepest is rather more -than three hundred feet deep, and serves as a working-shaft: two others -are used for pumping out the water. One pump is worked by a steam-engine -of seventy horse-power, the other is worked by a compound lever, which -is about a quarter of a mile long, moved by a water-wheel of forty feet -in diameter. The wheel is overshot, and the water for working it is -obtained from a small brook, aided by the water pumped up by the steam -machine, and conducted to it by a small canal. The lever is composed of -long wooden beams, bound together with iron straps, and hangs by tripods -placed at determinate distances. - -The ore raised from the mine, is pounded, washed, and roasted in the -usual manner. In order to separate the silver from the ore, the -following mixture is added to an ounce of the powder; red lead, two -ounces; red tartar, five pennyweights; nitre, nine pennyweights; borax, -four pennyweights; lime, one-quarter of an ounce; common salt, two -ounces; pounded fluor spar, one-quarter of an ounce. The whole is thrown -into a red hot iron crucible, which is placed on a glowing coke fire for -five minutes. The crucible is then taken off and the melted mass poured -into a ladle, allowed to cool and the dross removed. Some copper still -remains in the mass, so that the silver is again smelted with some lead, -and poured into a small vessel made of bone ashes: the lead is oxydated -and the silver remains pure. An ounce of ore produces one-fourth of an -ounce of silver. - -The mine is extremely damp, and as I had not felt entirely well for some -days, I did not descend, neither did any of the company. We returned to -Trematon, and in order to examine the noble spot to which we were going -more thoroughly, I mounted the box, and enjoyed a great treat. To the -left I looked down a deep valley upon the Tamer; farther off, upon the -Hamoaze, and to the right, far over Cornwall. Falmouth is said also to -be in sight. In his tastefully arranged house, Mr. Tucker has a very -interesting collection of minerals and metals of the vicinity. He -possesses a valuable library, and his wife has a remarkable collection -of shells. In the quadrangular tower of the castle, he has fitted up a -billiard room, and arranged on the walls numerous curiosities: ancient -weapons, and implements from the South Sea Islands, the tatoed and dried -head of a New Zealand chief, with his dress; pieces of worm-eaten -ship-timber from the Indian Ocean, with one of the worms in spirits; -Indian weapons; an American tomahawk; a human skull, found thirty feet -under ground in Cornwall; a marble bullet, with which an English ship -was struck in the Dardanelles, in 1807; articles from the field of -Waterloo; and a weeping willow leaf from over _Napoleon's_ tomb! Above -the clock in this tower, is placed the bell of the Spanish ship -_Salvador del Mundo_, taken and burnt by Lord St. Vincent. The round -tower, of which only the outward wall is standing, formerly served for a -prison. The walls of this tower, as well as all the rest of the castle, -are overgrown with ivy. A wooden staircase within, leads to a circular -gallery, which affords a beautiful prospect. A narrow passage cut -through the walls, leads to the garden, which contains numerous hot -houses and a very fine orangery. From this spot Mr. Tucker accompanied -us, by a very shady foot-path, back to our boat. I remarked near the -Castle of Trematon, as about other English castles, and public walks, -a vast flock of rooks, which roost there, making a great filth and -noise. The rook is much esteemed, and I hear that the people foster -them, and have their eggs hatched under pigeons, as they are thought to -destroy vast numbers of injurious insects. - -Amid all this friendly, agreeable, and learned society, these -entertainments and excursions, my impatience became great, and augmented -from day to day, from hour to hour. My time was precious, yet the -greater part of it was lost here. I waited with increasing anxiety for -the arrival of the Pallas, which still did not appear. More than once I -resolved to leave behind all I had on board of the corvette, and go to -the United States in a common packet. In the meanwhile various -considerations deferred my departure from day to day, until finally on -the 30th of May the Pallas arrived. - -While waiting for the ship, I derived much pleasure from a visit made -with Sir John Phillimore to the country seat of Colonel Ginnis, formerly -of the army. He lives in a beautiful park, a charming situation, five -miles from Plymouth, not far from the left bank of the _Tamer_, with -five lovely and handsome daughters. His house is very tastefully -arranged, and ornamented with paintings by himself. He has a peculiar -talent for landscape painting, both in oil and water colours. He has -thus preserved representations of the most beautiful situations visited -in the course of his numerous journeys. He passed nine years in North -America, and showed us views of wonders of nature, which I hope soon to -admire myself. His view of the cataract of Niagara, and Falls of -Montmorenci, gave me great pleasure. - -Sir John Phillimore also accompanied me to see Mr. _Harris_, a surgeon, -who has invented a new lightning conductor for ships. He has, for the -sake of experiment, had the model of a frigate built, which he floats in -a tub of water. There is a conductor to each mast, from which copper -rods, secured close to each other, run down the mast to the keel, -through which they pass into the water. Mr. Harris asserts, that the -lightning passes down these rods without affecting any thing in the -vicinity. To prove this, he wound around the mast a paper filled with -fine gunpowder, through which the lightning was sent without exploding -it. To prove farther, that the electricity can produce combustion after -passing through water, he connected the conductor below the keel by a -copper wire, with the touch-hole of a small cannon, which was floated in -the tub. When the electricity strikes the conductor on the mast, the -cannon is instantaneously fired. The cloud is represented by a frame -stuffed with cotton, which hangs by a silk thread, and is connected with -an electrical machine. Mr. Harris has a fine collection of philosophical -apparatus; the lightning rod of his house communicates by conductors -with a chime of bells, which are set to ringing whenever an electric -cloud passes over the house; this happened during our visit. Mr. Harris -has published a small pamphlet relative to his ship-conductor, of which -he presented me with a copy. We were very much gratified with his -experiments, and were grateful to him for his politeness. - -The delay of the Pallas also afforded me an opportunity of seeing an -East India ship launched. She was called the _City of Rochester_; was -built in London, and had sailed on her first voyage last autumn, for -Bengal, but off the heights of Plymouth was struck by a tremendous -hurricane with so much power as to wreck her to a degree that required -rebuilding. I had an opportunity of examining her while on the stocks, -and was pleased with her construction. She is intended to carry -passengers. On the quarter-deck she has a parlour and two state-rooms, -like the captain's quarters in a ship of the line, and below, the rooms -are distributed, as in the wardroom of a ship of the line, with this -difference, that in a transport ship the chambers are larger and neater -than in a ship of war. In each state-room there is a toilette, with a -_water-closet_, which is exceedingly good and comfortable. As I had -never seen a ship launched before, I was much interested. She rested -upon two ways, and was retained by two wedges; at a given signal these -were knocked away, and then by her own weight she was slowly and -majestically launched into the water, amid the acclamations of a great -crowd of people. - -The celebrated General _Mina_, a victim of the troubles which existed in -unfortunate Spain, met with a hearty welcome in England. But the humid -climate of this island did not agree with him, and he was afflicted with -rheumatism. Plymouth has the reputation of enjoying a very fine climate, -and together with the great medical skill of Dr. _Hammick_, who has -charge of the Marine hospital, is very much praised. For both these -reasons, General _Mina_ had selected Plymouth as his residence. -I cultivated his acquaintance, and was witness of a very interesting -ceremony in honour of him. The Spanish committee in London had voted him -a sword, and a member of this society, Mr. _Bowring_, the same person -who in 1824 was arrested in France, on account of a pretended -treasonable correspondence, and soon after liberated again, was -commissioned to present this sword to the general in a solemn manner. It -was on the 2d of June, when a numerous and selected company met at the -Royal Hotel of Plymouth, to attend this ceremony. As the general was -introduced to the company, Mr. Bowring informed the public of the object -of the meeting, and praised the merits of the brave general. He then -addressed the general in Spanish, informed him of the decision of the -committee, and finally displayed the diploma which accompanied the -sword: this was drawn up in English and Spanish with great calligraphic -splendour. The diploma and sabre were then presented to the general. The -sword has a gold hilt, with the general's arms on it, and a richly gilt -sheath, the sides of which were beautifully embossed with emblems of the -general's services. _Mina_ returned an answer in Spanish, and gave it to -Mr. Bowring. One of the company quickly translated it into English, for -the benefit of the public, whose long-continued applauses expressed -their admiration of the brave general. Mr. Bowring invited me to a -friendly entertainment that was to be given to _Mina_; unfortunately I -was obliged to decline it, as I had already made another engagement. - -[The 5th of June was fixed upon for the sailing of the Pallas for -Falmouth, but bad weather and high head winds detained her until the -7th. On the 9th, at 6 A. M. she arrived at _Falmouth_.] - -This tolerably long town lay at the foot of a hill, on our left, and -contains seven thousand inhabitants. It has by no means a brilliant -appearance, as it is, like Devonport, built of grey limestone, and the -roofs are slated. It is not visible from the sea, as a hill intervenes, -upon which the citadel stands. On the right side of the bay there is an -old castle, called St. Mawes, with about five houses, tenanted by poor -fishermen; this castle is one of the often-mentioned _rotten boroughs_: -it formerly was a town, and still sends two members to parliament. - -The hills are mostly cultivated; some are employed as pastures. Trees -are very rare, and few ships lay in the harbour. We anchored not far -from the frigate Astrea, a guard-ship, and saluted her with eleven guns, -which she returned. When we fired a salute on our arrival at Spithead, -the oil was spilled from the _sympisometer_, and Captain Ryk was obliged -to obtain a new one from London. To avoid a similar catastrophe, the -sympisometer and chronometer were both kept in hands during this salute. -The frigate Astrea, commanded by Captain King, serves as a depôt for all -the packets, which sail hence to all parts of the world lying south and -west of England, and are collectively under command of Captain King. The -packets were formerly private property; the conveyance of the mail to -foreign parts, was consequently not only very irregular, but a wide door -was opened for smuggling.--On this account, the government, after having -contracted with the former proprietors of the packets, assumed the sole -direction. When a packet is no longer retained in service, a corvette or -brig, commanded by a lieutenant of the navy, is substituted. At this -time thirty-four packets were in service, of which fifteen were vessels -of war, commanded by navy officers, the others were the old packets in -charge of their former captains. - -Soon after our arrival we were visited by the consul of the Netherlands, -Mr. Lake, who brought me several letters. We afterwards received a visit -from Captain King, a very entertaining old gentleman. At eleven o'clock, -Captain Ryk and I went on shore, where we found a crowd assembled to -witness our landing. We took lodgings in the Royal Hotel, a large, -tastefully-arranged building, though in a very filthy street. We were -much annoyed by the fish-market, which was immediately opposite to us; -in this we saw very large and fine fish, as well as enormous shrimps, -which are here very cheap. We repaired to the Custom House, where I made -the necessary arrangements relative to the landing of my baggage, after -which we visited Mr. Lake and Captain King. The latter lived without the -limits of the city, near the bay, in a house, which, though old and -small, is very handsomely situated in a garden, and commands a very fine -prospect of the bay. The house is also historically remarkable: it was -once inhabited by Oliver Cromwell. - -The citadel, named Pendennis Castle, stands, as has been already -remarked, on an eminence near the entrance of the bay, which it defends. -It occupies the entire height, and is not overlooked by any other -fortress. The soil consists of slate, and many of the works are cut out -of the rock. It has six bastions, and on the water side, two batteries, -each of about twenty pieces. A furnace for heating shot stands near the -upper battery, and the lower, which lies close to the shore, is attached -by its left wing to an old tower erected during the reign of Henry VIII. -The fortress was built in Cromwell's time. At the southern point stands -an old tower, built of granite and surrounded by a ditch, which was -erected in the reign of Henry VIII. This tower, the original fortress, -serves at present as the dwelling of the commander. It may be compared -with the French _tours modelés_. From the pinnacle, a tolerably -extensive prospect of the surrounding country may be obtained. The day -on which I visited the fortress with several officers from the Pallas, -was very favourable, and yet a fog on the hills, descended into the vale -between the fortress and the city of Falmouth, so that some time elapsed -before we could see the rocky shore of the sea. These fogs are said to -appear very frequently, even on the finest summer days. The fortress, -which is capable of containing a garrison of two thousand men, was -merely occupied by a detachment of veterans. There is an arsenal in it, -where we saw nearly four thousand stands of arms for infantry and -marines, besides a number of sabres, &c. all very handsomely arranged. -I observed in this, as in other English fortresses, that even during -peace, nearly all the cannon are suffered to remain mounted on the -walls, and the fortresses are enclosed with palisades. Truly! many -persons find the business of keeping the carriages in good order very -profitable, and the palisades also serve instead of hedges! - -The Dalcoath mines are about fourteen miles from Falmouth. The -stockholders of these mines, held a meeting on the 13th of June, to -settle their accounts. I rode thither with Mr. Lake, Captain Ryk, and -some officers of the Pallas. But having already visited many mines, and -learnt from experience that nothing is generally seen but small and low -passages, that much inconvenience is experienced from dampness and -filth, and my object being to visit America, I thought it by no means -necessary to enter these subterraneous regions. Coals are not found in -the province of Cornwall. The ore is therefore sold in heaps, at about -seven pounds and a half sterling per ton, and conveyed by water to -Wales, where, as is well known, stone-coal is found in abundance; it is -there smelted. The Dalcoath mines occupy a large extent of ground, and -have seven shafts, one of which is three hundred and forty fathoms deep. -The pumps are worked by means of steam-engines, the cylinder of one of -which is seventy-six inches in diameter. We were told of an engine in -the neighbourhood, whose cylinder was one hundred inches in diameter. -Nearly eight hundred people work daily in the Dalcoath mines, whose -wages are proportioned to the product of their labour. The ridge -consists of granite and schist. The metals are copper and tin. The veins -of these metals lie close together, frequently cross each other, and are -so rich, that in general it yields a third of its weight in pure metal. -The stone is broken and washed, and the copper separated from the tin, -after which the ore is collected into heaps for sale. The breaking of -the stone into small pieces is performed by women, some of whom were -very handsome. I remarked also, that the stone was drawn up the shaft in -iron, and not in wooden buckets, as is customary in other countries. The -company to which these mines belong is said to realize great sums; -however a deficit occasionally occurs. This was the case at the present -settlement of accounts, and for this reason the gentlemen, about twenty -in number, with a permanent director, Mr. Rennel at their head, were not -in the best humour. At the dinner, which naturally closed the -transaction, many local concerns, which did not particularly interest -us, were discussed. Many toasts, which all referred to localities, were -drank. At last, it occurred to the gentlemen to drink the health of the -king of the Netherlands, which I returned by drinking the health of the -royal family of England. The dinner consisted, according to the English -fashion, of very solid food--roast-beef, plumb-pudding, &c. - -Our course led us through Penryn, a small place, about two miles from -Falmouth, containing about three thousand inhabitants, and but poorly -built. It has a harbour, and lies at one extremity of Falmouth Bay. Coal -ships from Wales, and vessels with grain from Ireland, principally visit -this port. Cornwall is too hilly to allow the necessary grain to be -raised, and the mines occupy so much space, and withdraw so many poor -people from farming, that by far the largest portion of grain must be -brought from other quarters. The road, which, though hilly, was in a -good state, led through many pastures which were enclosed with hedges. - -The few trees which are seen, have not attained a great height. In the -new plantations I observed some larches. The houses are built of stone, -many of granite, here very common and cheap, and roofed with slate. Many -new houses are erected on speculation, because the population rapidly -increases. We also passed through Redruth, a hilly and angular town, of -about three thousand inhabitants, who are principally miners. The town -is surrounded by mines, whose general aspect is by no means pleasing. On -an eminence not far from Redruth, we saw some ruins which are said to be -the remains of a Druid temple. In the mines I observed a superstitious -practice, which I find to prevail also in ships and farm houses; -a horse-shoe is nailed over the door to keep off witches. When at -Dalcoath, we found ourselves only a mile and a half distant from Bristol -Channel, and saw St. Agnes' Beacon, a high mountain in the -neighbourhood. We at last arrived at Tehidy Park, belonging to Lord -Dunstanville; this is principally a new settlement, which appears to -great advantage in a region like this, which is not rich. We stopped at -the dwelling house to view it. It is a tolerably large, square building -with four porches, and contains several paintings by Van Dyk, Lely, -Kneller, Hudson, and Sir Joshua Reynolds; however, I doubt whether the -former be genuine. I was particularly pleased with a very good portrait -of the celebrated Fox. We saw also several statues, copies of the best -antiques and cameos of _verd_ and _jaune antique_. - -I had frequently seen sketches of St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall, and -had long wished to see the mount itself. I accordingly took advantage of -my present leisure to visit it. The mount lies in Mountbay, opposite -Marazion, twenty-three miles distant from Falmouth. I left this place -June 14th, at noon, the weather being very warm. The road leads through -Penryn, and then inclines to the left towards the ridges, constantly up -and down hill, through heaths, where few traces of culture were -observed; the houses stand detached, and have a miserable appearance. On -the heights, however, we had occasionally a prospect towards the western -ridges of Cornwall. Trees are few in number; we observed mines here and -there. Thirteen miles from Falmouth lies Helstone, a little mining town -of two thousand five hundred inhabitants, containing some neat houses, -but miserable pavements. The court-house stands in the middle of the -town, under which is the market. On the other side of Helstone we came -to a beautiful valley, where we saw trees again, and by means of a stone -bridge we passed over Looe, a small stream, which at a short distance -empties into the sea. As far as Marazion the region is agreeable; hilly -indeed, but better cultivated. We approached the sea on the left; on the -right we had the ridges, among which we discovered some neat farms. As -we approached Marazion, which lies on a descent towards the sea, we -enjoyed the really fine view of Mountbay and of St. Michael's Mount. -In Marazion we stopped at the Star Inn, and immediately took a boat to -reach the mountain, which is a short distance from the shore. The rock, -which at low water joins the shore, consists of granite, is a mile in -circumference at its base, and is two hundred and fifty feet high. At -its foot there is a small fishing village of about thirty houses, with a -harbour formed by two new piers. By means of very inconvenient steps -which are cut out of the rock, we reached an old castle, standing at the -highest point, and belonging to the family St. Aubyn. This is the same -family, whose chief, Sir John St. Aubyn, owns almost all the houses in -Devonport, and a large portion of the ground of the dock-yard. In former -times, St. Michael's Mount was a cloister. Adapted by its isolated -situation for a fortress, art has contributed but little to its -strength, and added merely a pair of bastions, and platforms, on which a -few small cannon belonging to the owner of the mount, are at present -standing. It sustained several sieges in former times. We were conducted -to a Gothic chapel with ancient, painted window-glasses, after which we -examined the castle. In this, however, we found nothing remarkable, -except the old refectory of the cloister, called the _chevy-chace-room_, -with strange bas-reliefs, representing ancient hunting scenes. In this -hall are very old pieces of furniture; one chair is said to be three -hundred, another five hundred years old. - -The windows of the castle command a very fine prospect towards Mountbay -and its shores, in which Marazion and Penzance, which are three miles -distant from each other, appear to very great advantage. Not far from -the latter place, the Thetis lay at anchor. I regretted extremely that -my time would not allow me to visit my gallant friend, Sir John -Phillimore. A steeple rises above the church of the castle, which I, -however, did not ascend, being fatigued, and the steps in a neglected -state. We rode back to Marazion, which was formerly called Marketzew, -and has eleven hundred inhabitants, and passing by Helstone, we arrived -about one o'clock at night, much fatigued, at Falmouth. Penryn, to which -I made several excursions, contains a row of newly-built, elegant -houses, with handsome gardens and a catholic church. The beautiful -terrace on which the new houses stand with their gardens, is called the -Green Bank, and is a very agreeable promenade. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - _Voyage from Falmouth to Boston._ - - -[The Pallas sailed from Falmouth Bay on the 18th of June, and arrived on -the 26th of July. During the voyage a midshipman was lost overboard, and -the American ship Schuylkill, in distress for water and provisions, was -spoken and relieved. The other incidents of the voyage are not -sufficiently interesting to need a particular description. - -The following is the duke's account of his landing at Boston:-- - -It was ten o'clock, on the morning of the 26th of July, when I first -placed my foot in America, upon a broad piece of granite! It is -impossible to describe what I felt at that instant. Heretofore, but two -moments of my life had left a delightful remembrance; the first was, -when at seventeen years of age, I received the Cross of the Legion of -Honour, after the battle of Wagram--the second, when my son William was -born. My landing in America, that country which, from my early youth, -had been the object of my warmest wishes, will, throughout life, remain -a subject of pleasing recollection!] - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - _Boston._ - - -On our arrival in Boston we took lodgings at the Exchange Coffee-house, -where I received a visit from Mr. Andrew Ritchie, whose acquaintance I -made in England two years ago. I was much pleased to see this worthy man -again, who eighteen months since married the daughter of Mr. Otis, -formerly a senator of the United States and leader of the federal party; -both these gentlemen are highly esteemed here. I dined at the inn at two -o'clock, according to the custom of the place; my seat was at the head -of the table, by the side of the host, Mr. Hamilton. He had served in -the last war as a volunteer colonel, and still retained his title. He -exhibited much politeness, and indeed I cannot sufficiently praise the -politeness of the guests, with many of whom I became acquainted. The -dishes were very good, and even had this not been the case I should -still have enjoyed them, having so long been without fresh provisions; -this was the case with the fruit, which though small and bad, was still -agreeable. On account of the excessive heat, which had been greater than -at any time during the last twenty years, fruit in general had matured -too early. Wine was served up in coolers with ice, and into every glass -of beer, a piece of ice was thrown. - -Adjoining the large dining room is a parlour and two sitting rooms, -where strangers who have nothing to do pass the day. At a sideboard, -wine, lemonade, soda water, &c. with ice, may be obtained. Eight -newspapers were lying on a large table, all of which had the form of -English papers, and were chiefly filled with mercantile and other -advertisements. The house itself is arranged much like an English inn. -The servants of both colours were civil and attentive. At four o'clock, -Mr. Ritchie with his father-in-law, and the son of the latter, lately -returned from a tour in Europe, came to show us the city. - -There are many elegant stores in Cornhill, one of the principal streets. -We saw a new building, intended as a branch of the United States Bank, -the front of which is plain, with two Doric columns, each consisting of -a single piece of granite, eighteen feet high, and almost five feet in -diameter. The first popular assemblies at the commencement of the -American revolution, were held in the old court-house. A large hall, in -which the aldermen meet, contains a full length portrait of WASHINGTON, -by Stuart, and also a bust of ADAMS, father of the present president. -The bust is encircled by a wreath of stars. The names of all the -citizens who distinguished themselves by great services during the -revolution, are engraved on four columns. The beef and vegetable markets -are under the court-house; but as this place was justly considered -unsuitable for such a purpose, a new market was built not far from the -water. The corporation began to fill up a ditch, and erect upon it a -long building, the foundation of which is granite, and the three stories -of brick, which was sold to the merchants as a warehouse. This sale was -made on such favourable terms, that from the profits a new market was -built, parallel with this warehouse, entirely of granite. It is five -hundred and twenty-five feet long, fifty feet wide, and one story high. -On the other side of this market, and parallel with it, a new row of -warehouses, similar to the former are building. Mr. Ritchie led us -through several wide and elegant streets to his house, one of the -largest in Boston, and situated on Beacon-hill, a public promenade. Many -frame houses are still to be observed; no new houses can be built of -wood. Most of them are of brick; granite, which is found in abundance -about twenty miles from Boston, is used frequently for foundations, -particularly for those of stores. The _mall_, as it is called, consists -of a large meadow, sparingly planted with trees, and extending down the -hill to the water. On the highest part of the hill stands the -state-house or capitol, with a large dome, covered with copper. The -building is of brick, decorated with a façade of ten columns. These are -of wood, and impart to the whole an air of weakness. Mr. Ritchie's house -is furnished with much splendour and taste, and decorated by some -paintings which he obtained during his travels. Among these I remarked a -very successful copy of Madonna _della sedia_ of Raphael, another -Madonna of Sassoferrato, and a scene from the deluge of Poussin. We -spent the evening with Mr. Ritchie, and became acquainted with his lady, -and also with the widow of General Humphreys, adjutant of General -Washington, and formerly ambassador of the United States to Lisbon and -Madrid. Mrs. Humphreys is descended from an English family, was born in -Lisbon, and must have been very handsome in her youth. Mr. Otis and his -son were also present. When we departed at nine o'clock, it was still -very warm, and the full moon looked like a glowing coal in the heated -atmosphere. The Pallas arrived at Boston towards evening, and cast -anchor near Long-wharf. In passing she saluted Fort Independence with -seventeen guns, and was answered by eighteen. - -I had imagined that no one would take the least notice of me in America, -but I soon found myself agreeably disappointed. The morning after my -arrival I received an invitation to dine the next day with Mr. Otis, and -was visited at the same time by several gentlemen. Captain Henderson and -Mr. Dixon, among others, called upon me; the latter introduced me to his -wife and his father-in-law, Mr. Homer. This gentleman inhabits a large -and handsome house on Beacon-hill, and has two amiable daughters. I was -much pleased with the arrangement of this house, and indeed the houses -and chambers in general are larger and better adapted for convenience -and ease than the English. - -In company with Mr. Ritchie I paid a visit to Mrs. Humphreys, whose -house is really splendidly furnished. In the evening I visited Mr. De -Wallenstein, attached to the Russian embassy at Washington, who resides -here during the summer, on account of his health. He is an agreeable and -reflecting man. Afterwards I visited Mr. Edward Everett, professor of -the Greek language in Harvard University. Mr. Everett had previously -written me a German letter, and offered me his services in an extremely -friendly manner. He has passed five years in Europe, during two of which -he studied at Goettingen, and also visited Weimar. He remembered this -with much pleasure, and was particularly pleased with the acquaintance -of St. M. v. Goethe. Having been elected a member of congress he -resigned his professorship. - -Mr. Everett called for me the next day to take me to Harvard University, -at Cambridge, three miles distant from Boston. At twelve o'clock we left -Boston, though the heat was extreme, and rode over the wooden bridge -which connects both towns, and is three thousand four hundred feet long. -Cambridge is by no means compactly built, but occupies a large extent of -ground. The houses are generally frame, a few of brick, and very few -entirely of granite; they are however painted with bright colours and -are very pleasing to the eye. Every house has a garden. Many meadows, -like those in England, are enclosed with three rails, lying one above -the other; Indian corn is cultivated in the fields; the grass was dry -and withered. - -Harvard University, one of the oldest colleges in the United States, was -founded in 1638, by a clergyman named Harvard, who bequeathed it about -eight hundred pounds sterling. By means of bequests made since that -period, it has now a very large income. The state of Massachusetts -supplies the deficiencies without however making any fixed contribution. -The university has eight buildings, chiefly of brick, and only one of -granite. The Unitarian chapel is in the latter, in which, besides the -usual services on Sunday, morning and evening prayers are held, which -all the students must attend. In front of the buildings is a large -space, surrounded with trees, where the students may amuse themselves. -The students are about three hundred and fifty in number, and -principally board and lodge in the buildings of the university; -a number, however, who cannot find room, or are recommended to families, -live in private houses. They are in other respects, as in the -universities of England, subjected to a very rigid discipline. The -library, which occupies two halls, contains about eighteen thousand -volumes. It contains the first edition of the large work on Egypt; -a Polyglot bible from the collection of Lord Clarendon; a splendid -edition of the Lusiad, by Camoens, with plates from the designs of -Gerard, edited by the Marquis de Souza, and printed by Didot at Paris. -Only two hundred and fifty copies of this edition were printed, and this -copy was given to the university by the Marquis himself. Of manuscripts -I saw but few, and these were Greek, which Mr. Everett bought at -Constantinople during his travels, and another containing the aphorisms -of Hippocrates, which an English schoolmaster copied with so much skill, -that it appears to have been printed.[I-4] In the mathematical lecture -room I did not observe a very complete apparatus. They have also but few -astronomical instruments, and in one observatory there are none. A new -electrical machine with a glass globe had but lately arrived from -England. The mineralogical collection is under obligations to Mr. -Ritchie for most of its finest specimens, which he bought during his -travels at Dresden, and presented to the university. A piece of basalt -found under ground in this neighbourhood, bears some similarity to the -profile of a human face. It is not known whether it be a lusus naturæ or -the work of human hands. Does this belong to the remains of an earlier -race of men which has vanished from the earth, but which has, not -without reason, been supposed by many to have once existed? The other -natural collections were of slight importance; there are no collections -of insects and butterflies. I saw there also the antlers of two stags, -which had become so completely entangled in fighting, that they could -not be separated, and in this state they were killed. The chemical -laboratory is arranged in a separate house, strongly resembling a -chapel. The anatomical theatre has been removed for want of room, from -Cambridge to Boston. In the former lecture room, however, there are -still several handsome wax preparations made in Florence, among which -are two fine full length figures, male and female. The latter represents -a pregnant woman, and is separable. Near the chapel is the assembly room -of the academical senate, where there are some very handsome engravings. -I was surprised to find among these engravings the defence of Gibraltar, -by Elliot, and one which represented Admiral Dewinter taken prisoner by -Admiral Duncan. I gave the attendant who conducted us two dollars, and -he seemed to be so much gratified by my generosity, that when we were in -the chapel he whispered to the organist, who immediately played "God -save the king," at which I was much surprised. We were escorted through -the botanic garden by Professor Nuttall, an Englishman, who has made -several scientific journeys in the western parts of the United States. -Among the green-house plants I observed a strelitzia, which had been -raised from seed in this country, and also a blooming and handsome Inua -gloriosa, and a Hedychium longifolium. The green-house and the garden -are both small; in the latter I remarked no extraordinary shrubs or -flowers, on the contrary, however, I saw many beetles, which were new to -me, with bright colours, and extremely beautiful butterflies. A son of -President Adams is one of the students of the university, and also Mr. -Jerome Bonaparte, a legitimate son of the former king of Westphalia, by -his marriage with Miss Patterson of Baltimore, which marriage, as is -well known, was dissolved by the Emperor Napoleon. This young man, who -is about twenty years old, bears an excellent character. - - [Footnote I-4: [This manuscript is perhaps one of the most curious - specimens of calligraphy extant. Without the aid of a microscope - it is almost impossible to discover that it is not a printed work, - so extremely uniform and accurate is every letter. We believe it - was originally prepared for the celebrated Dr. Richard Meade of - London.]--TRANS.] - -My acquaintances increased in number, and I received visits from many -distinguished men. Among those who paid me this honour on the third day -after my arrival, I must mention the Danish ambassador, Mr. Pedersen, -who was travelling with his family in the northern parts of the United -States, and was introduced to me by Mr. Ritchie; Mr. Josiah Quincy, -mayor of the city, was also present, a worthy and extremely agreeable -man, to whom I am under great obligations. - -After the gentlemen had withdrawn, I visited the New England Museum, -a very pompous description of which had fallen into my hands. This -museum is a private establishment, and consists of a mixture of wax -figures, musical clocks, stuffed animals, portraits, French caricatures, -butterflies, &c. Two articles alone interested me, namely, two living -rattlesnakes, and three Egyptian mummies. The snakes, caught near Lake -Erie, were lying in a box covered with glass, and received no -nourishment but water. They are ugly creatures, of a dark gray colour, -with large sharp scales and yellow bellies. Large thick heads, prominent -black eyes, and forked tongues. One of them, which was engaged in -casting its skin, was for the time blind; it had four rattles, and was -receiving a fifth. The attendant irritated it, but we did not hear it -rattle. Spirit of hartshorn is said to be very effectual against their -bite. The mummies were brought last year in an American vessel from -Egypt. One was in the same condition in which it had been when in the -coffin, except that the cloth had been taken from the face. The two -others were more or less uncovered; their coffins were well preserved. -I was astonished to see the fresh colours of the figures painted on -them. One of the mummies had two coffins, whence it is inferred that she -was a person of high rank. I saw also a Chinese painting, representing -all the tortures and modes of death common in China; a shocking and -disgusting sight. Finally, I observed a good model of the old bastile of -Paris, made of a stone from this building. - -The mayor, Mr. Quincy, had the politeness to show us the state prison. -This is situated in Charlestown, is of granite, and was built about -twenty years ago at the expense of the state of Massachusetts. It -consists of a centre building, containing the dwelling and offices of -the superintendant, as well as the watchroom, and of two wings, where -the prisoners are lodged. Behind the building is a large yard where the -prisoners work. It is enclosed by a high wall, with palisades, which is -guarded day and night by several sentinels. The prisoners are chiefly -employed in cutting and polishing blocks of granite, which are used in -Boston and its vicinity. The punishment of every prisoner who is -sufficiently robust, commences with this hard labour, which, however, is -changed if his conduct merits it, or if he exhibits abilities for some -other employment. As stone-cutter, a daily task is assigned to him, -which, if not finished, or badly done, is followed by solitary -confinement. If he performs more than his task, he is paid for the -surplus. Of this sum he can dispose as he pleases when discharged. -Newly-arrived prisoners, and those who have conducted themselves badly, -are dressed in green and blue, when, however, they conduct themselves -properly again, they are freed from this distinguishing habit. Other -prisoners work at various trades; supplying at the same time their -mutual wants, as shoes, &c. An engraver who was imprisoned for -counterfeiting Nova Scotia bank notes, worked in a separate room, and -engraved very neat maps. Four prisoners sleep in one cell, which are all -tolerably well ventilated, and every prisoner has his own hammock. Black -bread and soup constitute the food of the prisoners, who receive besides -for breakfast and supper, a portion of syrup and flour, forming a kind -of pudding. Besides the usual service on Sunday, they have prayers -daily. - -A report of the state of the prison from September 30, 1823, to -September 30, 1824, which was published by the warden, Mr. Thomas -Harris, contains the following results:-- - -The whole number of prisoners from 1805 to September 30, 1824, was one -thousand eight hundred and sixteen; of these there were thirteen hundred -and three dismissed, after the period of their punishment had expired; -two hundred and ninety-eight were pardoned; fifteen escaped; one hundred -and two died; two hundred and ninety-eight remained; of the thirteen -hundred and three who were dismissed, two hundred and thirteen were a -second time in prison for new crimes, and among these two hundred and -thirteen there were twenty-four who had been pardoned. - -On the 30th of September, 1823, there were three hundred and eight -prisoners; of these eighty were dismissed, ten pardoned, six died, and, -consequently, two hundred and twelve remained. To these eighty-six had -been added, so that the number of prisoners amounted, September 30th, -1824, to two hundred and ninety-eight, as was mentioned above. Among -these there were only three females. - -Of these two hundred and ninety-eight, there were fifty-four black or -coloured people, and fifty-nine white foreigners, viz. thirteen -Englishmen, seventeen Irishmen, eight Scotchmen, four from Nova Scotia, -two Canadians, one from the Cape of Good Hope, three West Indians, four -Frenchmen, two Swedes, two Italians, one from Green Cape, one -Portuguese, one German. - -Two hundred and twenty-two were sentenced for stealing, twenty-six for -passing counterfeit money, sixteen for burglary, seven for attempted -rape, six for attempting to murder, five for being incendiaries, eleven -for forgery, and five, among whom were the three females, for robbery. - -The prisoners are employed in different occupations; one hundred and -twenty-one were stone-cutters, twenty-seven for removing the stone, -thirty joiners, eleven brush makers, eight weavers, six shoemakers, ten -tailors, &c. There were eleven in the hospital, four in solitary -confinement, and three invalids. - -The expenses of the prison amounted to forty-one thousand six hundred -and ninety-five dollars for the maintenance of the prisoners, clothes, -beds, medicine, and materials employed in the labours of the prisoners; -and fifteen thousand nine hundred and twenty-six dollars for the -officers, &c. Total of expenses, fifty-seven thousand six hundred and -twenty-two dollars. - -The income derived from the labours of the prisoners amounted to -fifty-eight thousand eight hundred and thirty-four dollars, and thus the -prison was not only of no expense to the state, but produced a profit of -twelve hundred and twelve dollars! - -After leaving this remarkable building, the mayor accompanied us to -Cambridge. A company of volunteers from Boston, the Washington Rangers, -were training. The company were already departing when we arrived, but -had the politeness to halt and repeat their exercise again. They -exhibited much skill. They are somewhat fantastically dressed in green, -and armed with long rifles. I became acquainted with the officers, who -were all young men of the best families. I also spoke with several -Cambridge students, some of whom were dressed in a uniform, belonging to -a volunteer company, consisting of students alone. - -We then went to Bunker's Hill, near Charlestown. The space is small, but -of great importance in American history. Connected with the main land by -a bridge, this field of battle lies on a small island and has two hills, -the higher and most northern of which is called Bunker's Hill; the -southern, Breed's Hill, commands Charlestown and the Boston Roads. -In the year 1775, the Americans occupied this hill, and with their -artillery, which was placed in a redoubt hastily thrown up, harassed the -English garrison in Boston, and the fleet. On the morning of the 17th of -June, the English made a sally, left Boston, landed on a point east of -the redoubt, where the Americans had left too weak a defence, formed -their columns, whilst the artillery in Boston set Charlestown on fire, -and attacked the redoubt. This was so well defended, that the English -were twice obliged to retreat with very great loss. In one of these -unsuccessful attacks, the English Major Pitcairn, who shortly before had -commanded the English advance guard at the affair of Lexington, was shot -by an American sharp shooter, who still lives, at the moment when he -shouted to his soldiers not to be "afraid of these d----d rebels, which -were nothing but a crowd of grasshoppers." - -But the English received reinforcements, and renewed the attack. The -Americans, on the contrary, had expended their ammunition, and the shot -sent to them from Cambridge, the headquarters of General Lee, were too -large for the calibre of their pieces. They could obtain no assistance, -as an English man of war kept up a fierce fire upon the bridge, the only -means of communication with the main land. They determined, therefore, -to evacuate the redoubt, and they effected it, though with great loss. -At this time an English officer shot Dr. WARREN, one of the most -distinguished American patriots, who shortly before had been appointed -general, by congress. The English did not pursue the Americans farther -than Bunker's Hill, but returned during the night to Boston. The remains -of the redoubt are still seen, and on the 17th of June last, the corner -stone of a monument was laid, which is to be an obelisk two hundred and -ten feet high. One hundred and thirty veterans were present at this -ceremony, the last of the seventeen hundred Americans who had -participated in this affair. - -Finally, Mr. Quincy introduced us, in Charlestown, to a major of -militia, who devotes much of his attention to rural economy, and to the -breeding of cattle and horses. His whole establishment was interesting. -The major showed us, particularly, a noble English bull, from which he -had raised very handsome and strong calves, and also a fine English -stallion, ten years old. - -In these peregrinations I made inquiries after Miss Wright, who, some -years ago, published letters on America, which excited much attention in -Europe, as well as in America. I was told that this _lady_ with her -sister, unattended by a male protector, had roved through the country, -in steam-boats and stages, that she constantly tagged about after -General La Fayette, and whenever the general arrived at any place, Miss -Wright was sure to follow next day, as but little notice had been taken -of this _lady_ in Boston, a literary attack was expected from her pen. -She is no longer young, and is of tall stature and masculine manners. In -general, her letters are not much esteemed, and the flattering terms in -which she speaks of Americans and all their institutions, are regarded -as overstrained.[I-5] - - [Footnote I-5: [This "_lady_" is now one of the editors of a - newspaper, published in the western country, devoted to the - especial debasement of the human race. She has kindly undertaken - to enlighten the Americans by endeavouring to convince them that - _religion_ is a cheat, _chastity_ a dream, and all who adhere to - the pure precept of the gospel of our Saviour, fools!]--TRANS.] - -On the 30th of July I went on board the Pallas to attend to the -unloading of my baggage. I remained there a few hours, as I found it -cooler on board than on shore. The vessel was as they said, full of -visitors all day, for Captain Ryk, with his usual liberality, denied -access to no one of genteel appearance. Citizens are by no means allowed -to visit American vessels of war, unless they are known to an officer, -and on this account the curiosity of the inhabitants of this place to -see a foreign vessel of war is great. - -When I returned to the city, I visited Mr. Quincy, who took me to the -Court-house to see the arsenal of the thirteen volunteer companies of -this place. One of these companies has been organized ever since 1638; -all of these consist of young men of good families, who do not wish to -serve in the same companies with the common crowd, but have united, and, -in elegant uniforms, compose the flank companies of the battalions of -militia. A large hall in the Court-house is appropriated for their -exercises, when the weather is inclement. Every company consists of -about sixty men. The greater number of the companies are armed like -infantry, with bayonets according to the English mode, and the riflemen -alone with rifles. Not only the arms of the company, but the swords of -the officers are kept in the chambers of the Court-house. - -From the Court-house, Mr. Quincy took me to the Athenæum, where the -principal journals of the United States are found, and a library of -about twenty thousand volumes, which were partly presented and partly -purchased. A regular librarian showed us every thing; we noticed -particularly several interesting medals, and the collection made by -Thomasson in Birmingham, which represents the Elgin marbles. In the -vestibule of the house, and in the large reading room, are plaster -busts, which Lawyer Thorndike brought from Rome and presented to the -Athenæum. The handsome house itself, which is valued at twenty thousand -dollars, was given to the society by Mr. Perkins, a brother of the -celebrated mechanician in London. - -Some days later, August 2, Mr. Quincy had the politeness to show me -several hospitals of the city. - -The civil hospital was founded about twenty years ago, and is a massive -building of granite, with ten Ionic columns of the same stone. The -building, founded by voluntary subscriptions, and afterwards enriched by -legacies, now supports itself by the interest of the capital and by fees -which some patients pay. The administration of the hospitals and other -benevolent institutions, is conducted, without charge, by the principal -inhabitants, in a very correct and economical manner. The house has a -cellar, two stories besides a ground floor, and may contain about eighty -sick of both sexes, which are placed in different wings of the building. -There were at that time fifty-six patients, under the care of six nurses -and a matron. The house is under the direction of a steward, who is at -the same time a physician. Those patients who pay ten dollars a week, -occupy separate chambers, with separate attendants; others pay only -three dollars a week, and many nothing at all. The latter are all in the -same halls, which, however, are very light and well ventilated. The sick -sleep on beds of hard wood, with good hair mattresses and very fine bed -clothes. The steps are of granite, the halls and chambers are planked, -and the floors are painted with oil colours. I have seen many hospitals, -but none in which the sick were so conveniently and suitably lodged, and -none in which cleanliness was so well observed. The kitchen and -wash-house are in the cellar. In the former, the victuals are cooked by -means of steam, and the latter is arranged like that in the Plymouth -Marine Hospital, namely, with very large wooden frames to dry the -clothes. The session room of the directors, the anatomical theatre, with -some chambers for sick, are in the first story; the dwelling of the -matron, and the remainder of the chambers for patients, are arranged in -the second story. Two reservoirs of water, which may be raised by pumps, -should a fire break out, are situated on the ground floor. Mr. Coolidge, -one of the directors, accompanied us, and conducted us also to the -lunatic asylum, which is under the same directors. - -This building stands on an eminence between Cambridge and Charlestown. -A farm-house has been purchased in the neighbourhood, which serves as -the dwelling of the steward and head physician, as well as for a kitchen -and wash-house. Behind this house two very solid wings have been built, -three stories high, one for males, and the other for females. They -somewhat resemble prisons, but are concealed by the farm-house, which -has a very pleasing aspect, and thus prevents the unpleasant sensations -which the institution would otherwise excite in the minds of the unhappy -lunatics when they first approach it. A large garden, surrounded with a -wall, is attached to each wing, serving as a place of recreation for the -patients. A well-lighted corridor runs along each story, at each side of -which are the doors of the cells; in these nothing is placed but a -wooden bedstead, as in the hospital. Every story has an eating room, and -a common hall; in the latter, in which the sick may pass the day, -a table is placed with benches, which are nailed to the floor. The -infuriated are placed in solitary cells, and when they cannot be -subdued, are brought under a cold shower bath. The chambers are heated, -as in the hospitals, by means of flues. In this asylum also, in which -there were forty patients, the greatest cleanliness prevailed. - -On the 3d of August, Mr. Quincy called for me at twelve o'clock, to -introduce me, with Captain Ryk and Mr. Tromp, to the elder Mr. Adams, -father of the present president. This worthy old man, who was ninety -years old, and a signer of the Declaration of Independence, lives ten -miles from Boston, on his farm at Quincy, revered by his family, and -honoured by the whole nation, who regard him as their common father. -I was much affected when, as I approached this venerable man who had so -efficiently laboured in the cause of American independence, he extended -to me his hand. He was still in full possession of his mental faculties, -and remembered, not only the things which had occurred long ago, but -knew also every thing which had recently taken place, or was now -passing. His bodily strength, however, was diminishing, and he felt a -weakness, particularly in his legs. He conversed with me about half an -hour, especially concerning Holland, where he had been ambassador during -the revolution, and the features of his ancient countenance revived -again as he dwelt on the fact, that it was owing to him that Holland -then declared war against England, and the English ambassador, -notwithstanding all his intrigues, could effect nothing. When Mr. Tromp -was introduced to him, he remembered his great ancestor, shook his hand -in a friendly manner, was much affected, and said to him, "God bless -you, Van Tromp!" We left this worthy old man in deep emotion, and -congratulated each other on our good fortune in having been introduced -to this departing veteran of a revolution, which may well be called -salutary. - -In his house we saw several good portraits and busts of him, portraits -of his wife, who died seven years ago, of his son, the president, and of -General _Warren_, who fell at Bunker's Hill. We saw also a son of -President J. Q. Adams, who is a lawyer at Boston, and with whom I became -acquainted some days ago in the Athenæum. - -From Boston to Quincy there is a good turnpike road. It runs over some -hills, on which the traveller sees a handsome panorama; behind him the -city, on the left the bay, in front a well-cultivated region with -handsome farms, on the right the Blue Hills. We passed by several neat -farm-houses; the grounds are separated by means of dry walls, the stones -of which are partly hewn, and separated from each other, somewhat like -those of Scotland. No old trees are found, because the first settlers -very imprudently destroyed all the wood, and now it must be raised again -with much trouble. Lombardy poplars, and plane trees are frequent. The -inhabitants generally appear to be in good circumstances, at least the -farmers seem to prosper, and the houses appear to great advantage, for -instance, we remarked a common village blacksmith shop, which was built -of massive granite. At the very neat village of Miltonbridge we passed -over the river Neponset, which is navigable for small vessels. - -Quincy contains about four thousand inhabitants, and has assumed this -name in honour of the mayor's family, which is here much beloved and -esteemed. Mr. Quincy's country seat, to which we repaired from the house -of the ex-president, is about two miles distant from the latter, and -lies in the neighbourhood of the sea on a small eminence, from which -there is a very handsome prospect towards the bay. Mr. Quincy introduced -us to his family, to his wife, two sons, and four daughters. The eldest -daughter is very accomplished, and excels in painting landscapes in -sepia. Some years ago she visited the Falls of Niagara with her family, -and sketched several views. The other daughters are also very well -educated, and have a talent for music. We met here several gentlemen -from Boston, among others, Mr. Shepherd, Mr. Everett, and President -Kirkland, from Cambridge, who was accompanied by an aged English -teacher, Mr. Cooper, who fled from England with PRIESTLEY, thirty-five -years ago, and now directs Columbia College in South Carolina. He -appeared to be a gloomy, austere man, and very different in his address -from the humane and friendly manner of Dr. Kirkland. Towards evening we -returned to Boston by a shorter road, and passed the Neponset by means -of a long wooden bridge, which Mr. Quincy built not far from the place -where it empties into the sea. We then passed through Dorchester, and -saw on an eminence to the right the remains of two redoubts, built by -the English, which the great _Washington_ took from them, strengthened, -and thus principally contributed to the evacuation of Boston. - -I accompanied, August 4th, a party to a Mr. Nathaniel Amory; we passed -over the long mill-dam, which cuts off a part of the water surrounding -Boston, and is to be filled up in time, and houses built on it. Six -miles from the city is a wooden bridge over Charles river, which we -crossed to see the arsenal on the opposite side. This establishment was -built in 1816. A long yard, surrounded with a wall of granite, is -attached to the chief arsenal, which is three stories high, with two -wings, containing the offices and dwellings of the two directors, Major -Craige and Lieutenant Van Nessen. The workshops of the different -mechanics, belonging to the arsenal, are arranged behind this building, -on each side of the yard; at a short distance from the arsenal stands -the powder magazine, built of granite, and containing about fifty -thousand pounds; thirty thousand stands of arms are contained in the -arsenal in chests, each holding twenty pieces. I saw there a -newly-invented machine for casting a hundred and sixty-two balls at -once, giving them at the same time a perfectly round form. The arsenal -is very pleasantly situated in Watertown. - -We passed farther along the shore, through a romantic part of the -country, towards Waltham. At this place a branch of a large cotton -manufactory is situated, belonging to a company of twenty-five persons. -It is under the direction of Mr. Jackson, who possesses a very handsome -dwelling, where he appears to pass a happy life with his amiable family. -About four hundred and fifty workmen are employed, who live in different -buildings belonging to the factory, and form a particular colony; they -have two schools, a church, and a clergyman. They appear to be in very -good circumstances, as the dress, cleanly exterior, and healthy -appearance of the workmen testify. In these buildings the cotton is spun -and woven; but the colouring and printing are performed in another -establishment. The machines are worked by water, which is said not to -freeze in winter, but sometimes fails in dry summers. More simple -machines than jennys are used for spinning, and the dressing machines -are different from those in the Netherlands, though not better, -I believe, as they have but one cylinder. The weaving machines are -mostly of wood, which is very cheap, though I believe that our iron ones -are better. The workmen of this factory are, as I have since learned, -esteemed on account of their good manners, and their morality is -universally praised. But one case of seduction occurred in ten years. -After leaving this factory we passed by several very neat houses and -parks; the latter are smaller than those in England, because in this -country there are no rights of primogeniture, and the estate of parents -at their death is divided into as many parts as there are children. On -this account we do not find such great and powerful landholders here as -in England. It is a subject of dispute, whether primogeniture or equal -division be preferable; but it is certain that real prosperity is much -more diffused through the nation in America, and the land is better -cultivated. - -Mr. Nathaniel Amory's country seat lies on a small eminence in a -tolerably large park, and affords an extensive prospect of the vicinity -of Boston. Mr. Amory collected several good paintings of the Flemish -school in his travels, and some handsome mosaic work in Rome, with which -his house is decorated. In the afternoon we took a walk through the park -to a cottage, which belongs to the English sea captain, Wormley, -brother-in-law of Mr. Amory, and, though small, is very neatly arranged, -and handsomely situated. A small lake, called the Fresh Pond, with its -shady trees, affords a very picturesque view. After spending some time -very agreeably with his friendly family, we returned at nine o'clock in -the evening, by way of Cambridge to Boston. - -I visited the navy-yard on the 5th August, in company with Major -Wainwright, of the marines, and Lieutenant Gwynn. In the small barracks -of the marines where we commenced, the rooms are not large; the beds -stand on a platform, so that the rooms are very narrow and close. The -appearance of the soldiers was not remarkable. The navy-yard was founded -only twelve years ago, and not yet completed, but is very extensive. -A dry dock has not yet been made, but will be advantageously placed. The -two line of battle ships, Columbus and Independence, and the frigate -Java, were in ordinary. Two line of battle-ships and a corvette were on -the stocks, and not yet named. The two former, which were under sheds, -were finished, so that they could leave the stocks as soon as government -should order. But as no loss was incurred, the vessels were allowed to -lie on the stocks, and under shelter as long as possible, that the wood -may become still better seasoned. The sheds are larger than the English, -and are actual houses. The two vessels are very modestly called -seventy-fours, but have each three decks; the one pierced for one -hundred and thirty thirty-two pounders, and the other for an hundred and -thirty-six, of the same caliber. They are built of live oak, and to -prevent the dry rot, salt is scattered among the timbers, which, as I -was told, was of great advantage. The vessels are so high and roomy, -that I could stand erect in the two lower batteries under the beams. -Some methods which tend to strengthen and relieve vessels, used in other -places, have not yet been adopted here; for instance, I did not observe -the cruciform strengthening of the sides, and the diagonal deck, -according to the plan of Sir Robert Seppings, from which two -improvements the navies of England and the Netherlands derive the -greatest advantage. The same system which prevails in England is -observed here, namely, not to employ shipwrights for builders, as in the -Netherlands and in France, but carpenters. Mr. Baker, the master -shipwright of this place, with whom I became acquainted, is considered -to be a very skilful man. - -After we had seen the navy-yard, been much gratified with its good -condition, and wishing it might soon be finished, we visited the lady of -the commissioner, Captain Craine, who was absent. The commissioner's -house belongs to the government, and is placed on a height overlooking -the navy-yard; the architect who planned it, worried the commissioner -with continual questions relative to the form of the house, until -finally he replied in great vexation, build it _like my ----_. The -architect took him at his word, and built it with two round projections -standing close together, which have a very curious appearance from the -navy-yard. We saw in the navy-yard sails of cotton canvass, which are -preferred to hempen sails, both because they are more easily worked, and -are peculiarly durable. They are not, however, liked in the navy, -because they are too combustible, and on that account might be extremely -dangerous to a vessel during an action; they are therefore used only for -the higher sails. - -On the next day Mr. Quincy very politely invited me to visit some of the -public schools, which are under his direction. I accepted this -invitation with much pleasure, for in a country like this, where the -people govern themselves, without doubt the prevailing spirit may be -best learnt from the institutions for public education. There are also -at Boston, besides various private and two public schools, a Latin and a -mathematical school, called _high schools_, which are both maintained at -the expense of the city; boys of every class are admitted without paying -for their tuition.[I-6] Well-informed young men, who received good -salaries, are selected as teachers. The first teacher of the high school -receives yearly two thousand five hundred dollars. The study of the -ancient languages, the Latin and Greek, forms the basis of public -instruction. At the same time that these are taught, the attention, -acuteness, and memory of the pupils, are variously exercised; if, for -example, any one recites a line of the Eneid, and repeats the last -letter, another immediately arises, and repeats from the same poem a -line, beginning with this letter. The pupils do this with wonderful -rapidity. The declamations took place during our presence. One of the -scholars recited the speech of an English member of parliament, with so -warm and correct a delivery, that the speech could scarcely have been -better spoken in parliament. Another recited an oration, in which the -advantages of a moderate above a despotic government, were also -exhibited in a very good and distinct manner. Every evening the place of -each scholar in the class for the next day, is appointed by the teacher, -according to the industry which he may have shown during the day, and -entered into a book. At the end of the month judgments are passed on all -the pupils according to this list. - - [Footnote I-6: The expenses of public instruction, with the - exception of Harvard University, are defrayed by means of a school - tax, granted by the representatives of the state of Massachusetts, - to which every inhabitant of the state is obliged to contribute. - This praiseworthy arrangement exists also in Maine, New Hampshire, - Vermont, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. In the last state, - moreover, those parents who neglect to keep their children at - school, are fined five dollars for every absent child, which sum - goes into the school treasury.] - -The mathematical and physical sciences are taught in the high school; it -possesses a very good philosophical cabinet. We heard one class examined -in arithmetic, and another in analytic geometry. In the former I saw -that much attention was paid to mental calculation, and was surprised at -the quick and correct solutions of difficult arithmetical questions. -In the higher class the teacher proposed a question, and all those -immediately arose who thought they could answer it. One was designated -by the teacher to solve it, and if another thought the answer not -exactly correct, he raised his hand, without interrupting the first, and -corrected him when called upon. I was pleased both with the kind manners -of the teachers, and the modest, correct, and easy deportment of the -scholars. The boys generally had handsome faces, and were all of an -animated physiognomy. With this they combine, as I was frequently -convinced, the greatest respect for their parents and teachers. It -appears to me impossible that young people, who receive so liberal an -education, can grow up to be bad or malicious men. I was indeed affected -when I left the schools, and could not but congratulate Mr. Quincy from -the bottom of my heart, on such a rising generation! Captain Ryk, who -accompanied us, participated in my views and feelings. - -From the schools we went to the state-house or capitol, of the exterior -of which I have already spoken, but the interior arrangement I had not -yet seen. Besides the offices belonging to the state government, it -contains the assembly rooms of the three bodies which govern the state, -the council of the governor, the senate, and the representatives. These -rooms are spacious; still, however, it is evident, that thirty-seven -years ago, when this building was erected, every thing was done in -haste, and that architecture had not then made the progress which it -since has. All the steps are of wood. A trophy is erected in one of the -chambers, composed of Brunswick arms, which were taken at the battle of -Saratoga. One hundred and sixty-eight steps lead to the lantern of the -cupola, which is of wood, and covered with copper. Notwithstanding the -excessive heat, we went up, and our labour was richly recompensed by a -splendid prospect. The dome is the highest point in the vicinity, and -affords a view not only of the whole city and the bay, but also of a -great extent of ground beyond, in every part of which a number of neat -dwellings may be observed. - -Thus passed almost fourteen days, in an uncommonly pleasing and -instructive manner. In general my state of health allowed me to enjoy -every new and interesting object with serenity of mind; I was indisposed -but two days, and this was probably owing to the excessive heat. Even -the intermediate hours, which could not be dedicated to the inspection -of public institutions, generally afforded instructive amusements. -I passed the morning in reading and writing, then received or paid -visits, and at all times met with attention, courteousness, and -kindness. I visited the churches on the Sundays I passed in Boston, -which are still more quietly kept in America than in England. The first -time I went to a Unitarian church, attended by a son of the mayor; -a second time I went to an Episcopalian church, accompanied by Mr. -Lloyd, a very distinguished man, and senator of the United States. -I dined twice at the inn, but generally accepted some friendly -invitation, and passed all my evenings very agreeably in company at -musical parties and other entertainments. I also made some excursions -into the country besides those already mentioned. - -The society, especially when ladies are not present, is uncommonly fine -and lively--both sexes are very well educated and accomplished. So much -care is bestowed upon the education of the female sex, that it would -perhaps be considered in other countries as superfluous. Young ladies -even learn Latin and Greek, but then they also can speak of other things -besides fashions and tea-table subjects; thus, for instance, I was at a -party of Mrs. General Humphreys, which was entirely in the European -style, without cards, dancing or music, and yet it was lively and -agreeable. Thus I passed some delightful hours with Mr. Ritchie, Mr. -Dixon, Mr. Homer, Mr. Otis, Mr. Shepherd, and Mr. Artiguenave, -a Frenchman, formerly an actor in the Théâtre Français, at Paris, and -now professor of the French language at Cambridge University. Many of -those gentlemen who are met with in such society, have travelled in -Europe, sometimes accompanied by their ladies; Europeans are frequently -present, and thus there is no want of materials for conversation. The -generality of the houses, moreover, offer something attractive in the -fine arts; and in returning home on an evening, the city, the bridges, -and the Mill-dam are very well lighted, not indeed with gas, but with -reflecting lamps, and none of that disorderly conduct is observed in the -streets, which so often shocks the mind in the cities of England. - -We made an excursion on the 1st of August into the country with Mr. -Dixon in his dearborn. A dearborn is a very light wagon, with two -benches and four wheels, drawn by one horse. We rode over the neck which -unites Boston with the main land, and was fortified by the English -during the revolution; then in an ascending direction towards the -heights of Roxbury, where, during the blockade, the right wing of the -American lines stood. The ground is very rocky, and partly covered with -fir trees; the trees which formerly stood here must have been entirely -removed, as not one high tree can be seen. Passing farther on we saw -very handsome country houses and gardens, the former generally two -stories high, and surrounded with covered colonnades. At one of these we -paid a visit to the owner, Mr. Rufus Amory. A walk, shaded by oak, elm, -and maple trees, leads to the dwelling on a slight elevation, which -commands an extended and beautiful view of Boston and the bay. We were -received by the friendly owner in an extremely obliging and hospitable -manner. We rode through a romantic part of the country to Dorchester, to -visit General Sumner at his country seat, but did not find him at home. -We then returned by another handsome road to Boston, and passed a large -rope manufactory, the works of which were moved by steam. - -At another excursion to Dorchester, in company with some young men, sons -of the richest inhabitants of the place, a game of ten-pins was played. -It is called ten-pins, because that number of pins is here used in the -game.[I-7] - - [Footnote I-7: [Most probably to evade a law against - "_nine_-pins."]--TRANS.] - -Finally, I cannot omit to mention one visit, which, in company with Mr. -Ritchie, I made to Mr. Coolidge, jr. Mr. Coolidge had, three months ago, -married a Miss Randolph, a granddaughter of THOMAS JEFFERSON. His wife, -about thirty years old, was brought up by her grandfather in the country -in his library. She is said to be so learned that JEFFERSON often asked -her advice. She had arrived a few days previous, and made known that she -would receive visiters, and we therefore found the chamber filled with -people. Every one at his departure took with him a piece of wedding -cake. The young ladies, as it is said, place this cake under their -pillows, and then dream of their future lovers. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - _Journey from Boston to Albany, by way of Worcester and - Northampton.-- Sojourn there, from the 8th to the 14th of - August, 1825._ - - -Accompanied by Mr. Tromp, who had become endeared to me by his -knowledge, his modest, honourable, and amiable deportment, I left Boston -on the 9th of August, for Worcester, distant forty miles. The -mail-coach, like the diligence stage, consists of a long calash with -three benches, each capable of containing three persons. The top is -fixed, though the curtains can be rolled up, so that a person may enjoy -the fresh air and the prospect of the surrounding country, without being -exposed to the sun. - -We left the hospitable city of Boston with grateful hearts, and rode -over the Mill-dam into the interior of the country. The horses were -changed four times, generally in small villages; Farmingham and -Westborough appeared to be the only ones of any importance. The country -sometimes seemed wild, and but thinly settled, though the state of -Massachusetts is said to be the most populous in North America. We saw -no grain,[I-8] though in some places we observed Indian corn, and now -and then some millet. Apple orchards were abundant--the trees hung so -full of fruit that many of the boughs were broken. The apples are small -and yellow, and are employed in preparing the favourite beverage called -cider. We gradually approached forests, consisting of oak, chesnut, and -elm trees. Sumach also occurs in some places, the bark of which is said -to be excellent for tanning leather. There are evidently no forest -regulations here, and the timber is very much neglected. The road was -for the greatest part a good turnpike, and made in the German manner. We -crossed several small rivers and rivulets on wooden bridges, which are -very slight, though they are built with a great waste of timber. The -planks are not even nailed upon the beams, so that I began to be -somewhat fearful, especially as the carriage drove rapidly over. About -two miles from Worcester we crossed a lake called Guansiganog-pond, on a -wooden bridge one-fourth of a mile in length. The banks of this lake are -covered with wood, and present a very handsome appearance. On our way, -we were overtaken by a considerable thunder-storm, which settled the -dust, and procured us a pleasant evening. We arrived at Worcester about -7 o'clock, and alighted at an excellent tavern. This town contains about -four thousand inhabitants, and consists of a principal street, with an -avenue shaded with old elm trees, and of several bye-streets, which, -like the preceding, are altogether unpaved. The houses, generally built -of wood, and but few of brick, are all surrounded with gardens, and -stand at a considerable distance from each other, so that the town -appears like a village. It has four churches, a bank, and three -printing-offices, each of which furnishes a newspaper. There are also -printing-offices in many of the villages through which we passed, as -well as a fire-engine in each. In the evening we paid a visit to the -governor of Massachusetts, Mr. Levi Lincoln, who resides at this place. -We found this worthy man, who is universally esteemed by his -fellow-citizens, at home with his wife and sister-in-law, and were -received by him in the most friendly manner. We spent a very agreeable -evening in his company. A proof of the public esteem which he enjoys, -is, that at the last election, there was not a single vote against him, -an example almost unparalleled in the United States. The governor is -styled "his excellency." On the following morning the governor conducted -us to a recently established museum, which is designed chiefly for the -collection of American antiquities. It is yet in its infancy, and -contains but few interesting specimens; the library also is of small -extent, notwithstanding we must render full justice to the inhabitants -for their laudable zeal in the cause of natural science. We rode around -the town in company with the governor, passed the court-house and -prison, which unfortunately we had not time to visit, and returned to -our inn. The gardens we passed had rather a wild appearance. They -cultivate kitchen vegetables, a few watermelons, and fruit; we saw no -flowers excepting the sunflower. - - [Footnote I-8: [The harvest having occurred in July.]--TRANS.] - -At 10 o'clock we departed in the Worcester stage for Northampton, -distant forty-seven miles. Our company in the stage-coach consisted of -two gentlemen and ladies from the state of Mississippi, who had -undertaken a tour to the northern states on account of the unhealthy -climate in their own country, and who entertained us very agreeably with -an account of their estates. The road was worse than yesterday, -sometimes sandy, and the horses generally bad, so that on the whole, our -progress was slow. The country is less populous, as well as less -cultivated, though there is more timber, which, however, is also very -much neglected. We observed the cypress and a few large cedars. As there -are no grazing laws in force, they are obliged on account of the cattle, -and particularly on account of the sheep which graze in these woods at -large, to make fences of young chesnut trees which are split into four -pieces. These fences generally consist of six rails placed upon each -other, with an interspace of several inches. They are placed in an -angular form, and at the point where the rails meet, they are placed one -upon the other, and usually supported upon a large stone. Such a waste -of timber and land is only pardonable in a country where the inhabitants -are few, and where timber is abundant. A large extent of wood-land has -been cleared only within a short time, and the trunks of the trees which -remained have been destroyed by fire. The soil is not particularly -fertile. We observed numerous blocks of granite, which may be hereafter -usefully employed, the large for building, and the small upon the roads. -The villages which we passed on our way are Leicester, seven, Spencer, -five, Brookfield, seven, Ware, eight, Belchertown, nine, and Madley, ten -miles. They are most of them small places, consisting generally of frame -houses, standing at a distance from each other, which are very neat and -comfortable; each village has a frame church and a school-house. Stores -are observed in most of these places, and in Belchertown there is even a -fashionable one. The churches are usually provided with long sheds, -in which the carriages and horses of the members of the church are -protected from the heat and weather during the service. Ware, situated -on the river of the same name, which is crossed by a wooden bridge -rather better built than usual, was laid out about three years since; -it is a neat, flourishing place, and belongs to the Dexter family in -Boston, who have established a woollen and cotton manufactory here, the -workmen of which, above three hundred in number, form the inhabitants of -the place. Mr. Dexter, of Boston, had entrusted me with an important -packet of papers for his brother, who resides in Ware, which I delivered -in person. We found Mr. Dexter with his beautiful wife, at his neat and -well arranged cottage, situated in the centre of a garden, and received -a friendly welcome. From his window he can overlook the whole village -and manufactories. Heretofore, said Mr. Dexter, I have received the -greatest part of my wool from Saxony, which is preferred here to the -Spanish; but at present, we have sheep imported from Saxony, which are -permitted to roam at large through the wood, as there are no wild -animals in Massachusetts to destroy them; they yield a very superior -kind of wool. Unfortunately we were not at leisure to accept of Mr. -Dexter's invitation to look at his establishments. At the tavern, which -was perfectly clean and comfortable, we obtained a very good dinner, and -continued our journey. The inhabitants of Ware are said to be -distinguished for their strict morality. They have a common school, to -which they are obliged by law to send their children, as is the case -throughout Massachusetts, or pay a fine. In Ware there is but one -physician, who has a handsome house, and keeps a well furnished -apothecary store. The strict republicans are jealous of the large -manufacturing establishments, because they are afraid that individual -citizens, in consequence of their property, may have too great an -influence upon a large mass of people; but I imagine that the republic -has nothing to fear on this head, since the effect of individual -influence is counterbalanced by the promotion of the welfare of the -poorer classes. - -About a mile from Northampton we passed the Connecticut river, five -hundred yards wide, in a small ferry-boat, which, as the night had -already set in, was not very agreeable. At Northampton we took lodgings -at Warner's Hotel, a large, clean, and convenient inn. In front of the -house is a large porch, and in the first story a large balcony. The -gentlemen sit below, and the ladies walk above. It is called a piazza, -and has many conveniences. Elm trees stand in front of the house, and a -large reflecting lamp illuminates the house and the yard. This, with the -beautiful warm evening, and the great number of people, who reposed on -the piazza, or went to and from the house, produced a very agreeable -effect. The people here are exceedingly religious, and, besides going to -church on Sundays, they go thrice during the week. When we arrived, the -service had just ended, and we saw some very handsome ladies come out of -the church. Each bed-chamber of our tavern was provided with a bible. -To-day I observed also a new mode of delivering letters and newspapers. -The driver of the mail-coach throws the letters and newspapers, with -which he is entrusted, before the houses where they are to be left; he -sometimes throws them even into open fields, along the lane leading from -the main road to the house. - -About two years ago, Messrs. Cogswell and Bancroft established a -boarding-school at Northampton. The day after our arrival, 11th of -August, Mr. Cogswell paid me a visit, and introduced one of his -professors, Dr. Beck, of Heidelberg, a step-son of Dr. De Wette, of -Weimar, who teaches the Latin and Greek languages. Another German -professor, whom, however, I did not see, directs the gymnastic -exercises. Both these gentlemen conducted us to the institute, which is -situated on Round Hill, about a mile from Northampton. - -Northampton contains about four thousand inhabitants, and its buildings -are, apparently, very much like those of Worcester; it has one bank, -a court-house, prison, and a printing-office. From Mr. Cogswell's -institute, you have a magnificent view of the fertile and -well-cultivated valley of the Connecticut river, which, in this place, -winds between two lofty mountains, Holyoake and Mounttoby. On the left, -the lofty mountains of New Hampshire present a beautiful prospect. In -1824, this institution had but forty pupils, and in 1825, it numbered no -less than seventy-four, so that Mr. Cogswell is obliged, although he has -three large houses belonging to his establishment, to erect a fourth and -larger one. The gymnastic exercises, for which a place is provided in -the woods, with the necessary apparatus, form a principal part of the -instructions of this seminary. The boys are entirely excluded from the -world; but that they may not become too much estranged, Mr. Cogswell -accompanies them annually in various pedestrian tours through the -surrounding country. I visited Mr. Bancroft at his room. Both these -gentlemen entertain the warmest enthusiasm for Germany and the German -method of instruction, and are determined to regulate every thing -according to that system. Mr. Bates, a lawyer introduced to us by Mr. -Cogswell, returned with us to town, and showed us the church, -court-house, and a collection of minerals, in the possession of Dr. -Hunt, in which I admired particularly two specimens of American beryl -and several specimens of rock-crystal. On our return to the tavern, -I received a visit from a physician, Dr. Seeger, who was educated with -Schiller in the military school at Wirtemberg. He wished to become -acquainted with me on account of my father, for whom he expressed the -highest veneration. I must acknowledge, that, in a country so far from -my native land, this afforded me the most sincere gratification, and my -acquaintance with the worthy Dr. Seeger, who has been an inhabitant of -the United States during the last forty years, and who is universally -esteemed as an honest man and a good physician, I shall always remember -with pleasure and satisfaction. - -At Springfield, twenty miles from Northampton down the Connecticut -river, is the government armoury. We left Northampton, to visit this -establishment, under the most oppressive heat, with five ladies and two -gentlemen in the stage-coach, into which we were crowded, somewhat like -those that were shut up in the Trojan horse. We arrived about 3 o'clock -in the afternoon, and again found an excellent tavern, which was -provided with a piazza. Our ride passed through a well-cultivated region -of country, along the right bank of the Connecticut river; Indian corn, -millet, and potatoes were observed in considerable abundance, in some -places we also observed hemp, and sometimes, though seldom, hops. - -Springfield is situated on the left bank of the Connecticut river, over -which, close by the town, is a wooden bridge, five hundred yards long, -and built in a very awkward style. Springfield has much more the -appearance of a city than Worcester and Northampton, for there are at -least some stone houses situated so closely together that they form a -street. Colonel Lee had the goodness to take us in his carriage to the -manufactory of arms, of which he is the director. It is situated about a -mile from Springfield, in a very beautiful valley, on a rivulet. It -employs daily two hundred and seventy-four workmen. These are settled in -the vicinity of the manufactory, form a kind of colony, and have a -school for their children. They are also obliged to distinguish -themselves by their good moral deportment. The muskets for the American -army are made on the improved French model of 1777, with the exception -that they are somewhat shorter, while the bayonets are rather longer. -The barrels and bayonets are browned, as Dupin has described at full -length in Travels through Great Britain. We examined the works -throughout. There are several houses, and the machines are propelled by -water. They finish annually fifteen thousand muskets, each of which -costs the government on an average eleven dollars. How much might be -saved, if, as in other countries, muskets were made by private workmen! -The arsenal in which these muskets are preserved and packed in chests, -each containing twenty pieces, was destroyed by fire about a year and a -half since, but having been rebuilt, it consists at present of a centre -building for the offices, two isolated wings for the preservation of the -different arms, and of several other adjacent buildings for the -necessary workshops. These buildings form an oblong square, of which the -proper armoury forms one of the short sides; on the other, oppositely to -the centre building, is Colonel Lee's neat and beautiful dwelling. The -houses belonging to the arsenal are built of brick externally, while -internally every thing is of wood; and as, during the winter season -these buildings are heated with wood, there appeared to me to be much -danger of fire. I remarked this to Colonel Lee, who appeared to -participate in my apprehensions. After our return to the tavern, Mr. -Calhoun, with whom we had become acquainted through Mr. Bates, -introduced us to several gentlemen of the town, and took us in the -evening to a musical party at the house of a Mr. Dwight, where we found -the fashionable part of society assembled. The ladies sang very well, -and played on the piano-forte several pieces from "Der Freischutz," -an opera which is at present a favourite in America. - -We had determined to go on the 12th of August to New Lebanon, to visit -the Springs and the Shaker's village, but the Fates had decreed -otherwise. We left Springfield at two o'clock in the morning in the -stage, rode over the bridge, through Westfield, which, as far as we -could judge in the dark, is a handsome village, and arrived at day break -in a romantic valley, on Westfield river, whose waters fall over huge -rocks. At Russel, which is situated in an uncultivated valley, seventeen -miles from Springfield, we partook of an excellent breakfast at the -stage-office, and were much pleased at the clean and comfortable -appearance of the houses and inhabitants. It was so cold early in the -morning, that a large fire which we found at this house, was quite -comfortable. The road through the wild romantic valley, generally -ascending, and along the river, was rather bad, and often very narrow; -instead of a railing, there were only trunks of large trees, which were -permitted to decay in a very unjustifiable manner. The bridges also were -as badly built as those of which we have already complained. The forest -trees were very handsome, but many of them are destroyed for the cabins -of the new settlers. These dwellings, like the log-houses, are built of -the trunks of large trees. Amongst the few settlers whom we observed -there, were several negro and mulatto families. The villages of Chester, -Bucket, and Lee, through which we passed, consist of but few houses; -Lee, however, appears to be a flourishing village. At this place we left -the mountains, and again entered upon a better cultivated region, in -which we observed stubbles of wheat and rye. - -Exceedingly fatigued in consequence of the great heat, and the number of -passengers in the stage-coach, I was anxious to procure a carriage in -order to visit New Lebanon, distant fourteen miles; but the person of -whom I inquired was so extortionate as to ask ten dollars. I determined, -in order to avoid a new yankee trick, to prosecute my journey in the -stage-coach, direct for Albany. At Canaan, thirteen miles distant, we -left the state of Massachusetts, and entered that of New York. The other -villages which we passed after our departure from Canaan, were Chatham, -six miles, Nassau, or Union Village, four miles, and Schoodie, five -miles. The distance from Springfield to Albany is eighty-one miles. The -above villages have a neat and comfortable appearance, and the fields -were in a good state of cultivation. Upon our arrival at Schoodie the -night was just setting in, but unfortunately we were lighted by a -burning house upon an eminence not far off. At the village of Greenbush, -near Albany, we crossed the Hudson or North river in a horse-boat, and -upon our arrival in the city took lodgings at Cruttenden's -boarding-house, on an eminence near the capitol or state-house. - -Albany contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is situated upon -the right bank of the Hudson, and extends westward upon an eminence. -It was built by the Dutch in 1614, under the name of Fort Orange, and -received its present name after it came into the possession of the -English, in honour of the afterwards unfortunate King James II. who was -then duke of York and Albany. Some of the Dutch houses are still -standing, and several of the streets retain their original names. - -At the tavern we met with a Mr. Jackson, from New York, who had arrived -at the same time, and who was accompanied by his sister and his son, -Columbus, a sensible lad about ten years of age. Mr. J. is a teacher. In -consequence of the vicinity to the Ballston, Saratoga, and New Lebanon -springs, and the fashionable season, the hotel was so full of strangers, -that I was obliged to sleep with Mr. Tromp, in a small chamber. On the -following morning, at the public breakfast, I again met with Mr. Jackson -and Columbus, and as he was acquainted in Albany, I accepted of his -invitation to take a walk through the city. It is old and in some parts -appears to be in a state of decay. During the late war with England it -was in a quite flourishing state; but since the peace it has suffered -considerably, in consequence of some heavy failures and a great fire. -Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expects -to reap the most happy results from the Erie Canal, which has been -lately established, and which commences here, and runs a distance of -three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie, as well as from the -canal from Lake Champlain. The pavements were so bad that I was obliged -to complain immediately upon our arrival, and this I was subsequently -forced to repeat; the streets were also very crooked. We visited several -bookstores, which appeared to be well furnished, and then took a walk to -the new basin, into which the canal empties. It is separated from the -Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the river, and is four thousand -feet long, from three to four hundred wide, and ten feet deep. The dam -is built of strong rafters, which form its two walls, the intervals of -which are filled up with earth and stone. It is connected with the bank -of the river by several high wooden bridges, in the centre of which -there are drawbridges for the passage of boats. The building of this dam -cost one hundred and thirty thousand dollars. It was divided into lots, -and sold separately, on condition that store-houses should be erected -upon it: in consequence of this they have realized the sum of one -hundred and ninety thousand dollars. In my opinion, the managers of the -canal, at whose expense the basin and the two canals have been built, -would have done better, if they had kept the dam and rented it. Being -built of wood, which is more or less subject to decay, as they are to -erect nothing but store-houses upon it, it is to be feared that in the -course of ten years it will tumble down in consequence of the pressure, -or that they will be obliged to repair it in great measure, or perhaps -completely rebuild it with stone. As stone is very cheap here, and sawed -in the prisons, they should have originally built the dam of stone. The -present one seems to me to have been but badly executed. In the basin we -saw a travelling bookstore in one of the canal-boats. Mr. Wilcox, who -established it about two years ago on the Erie Canal, travels backwards -and forwards several times a year, and is said to do considerable -business. He had just returned to get a new assortment of books. Most of -the books which he sells at the villages in the neighbourhood of the -canal are ancient authors, some medical and religious, and a few law -books and novels. This gentleman, formerly a merchant in Albany, -entirely supports his family, who reside with him in his boat, by this -fortunate speculation. I purchased of him an excellent map of the state -of New York. - -A few hours after, we visited some of the steam-boats which ply between -Albany and New York. The largest, called the Car of Commerce, is -provided with excellent apartments, and makes her trip in nineteen -hours. This vessel is extremely elegant, but my friend Tromp is of -opinion that the English steam-boats are superior in machinery. In fact, -in this country, the American steam-engines are not celebrated for the -safety of their boilers; and several explosions which have occurred, -serve to increase this evil report. From this reason, as well as on -account of the disagreeable motion of the steam-engine, many persons -were unwilling to risk their lives, so that they have attached a -safety-barge to one of the steam-boats. This is a real floating hotel, -furnished with the greatest luxury. In the ladies cabin there are even -silk curtains. Besides this, the ladies have a separate toilette and -parlour. The gentlemen assemble in the dining room. The whole boat is -surrounded by a piazza, which, in warm weather, must be extremely -pleasant. The name of this safety-barge which carries passengers at four -dollars, is Lady Clinton, in honour of the wife of the governor of New -York, De Witt Clinton. We also visited the Constellation, another -beautiful steam-boat, which has no safety-barge. There are also -steam-boats for the purpose of towing the common sloops, &c. up and down -the river, called steam-tow-boats. - -Finally, we examined the horse ferry-boats. These boats consist of two -vessels joined together, have a common deck, and are of an elliptical -form. Upon the centre of the deck is a round house, in which six horses -work, turning a horizontal, which moves two common wheels between the -boats, provided with paddles, as in the steam-boats. The carriage, and -twenty-two two-horse carts crossed at the same time, standing on both -sides of the round house. There are two rudders, one at the stern, the -other at the bow. - -The trade in timber and boards is one of the capital branches of -internal trade. We saw a great quantity of both on the wharves, and at -the dam. At dinner we became acquainted with the Spanish consul of -Boston, a worthy young man, who was educated in France. After dinner we -took a view of the capitol, or state-house, situated upon a small -eminence, and at a short distance from our inn. Albany is the seat of -government and the capitol of the state of New York, but it is said to -be the intention of the inhabitants shortly to remove the seat of -government to Utica, which is situated farther to the west, and in a -more central part of the state. The capitol is built of brown -sand-stone, and in a quadrangular form; in front it is ornamented with -large steps, and four Ionic columns of white marble. The halls of the -different branches of the legislature are spacious, but exhibit nothing -remarkable. In one of the halls is a full length portrait of Washington, -and in another, that of the late Governor Clinton, an uncle of the -present governor.[I-9] On the top of the capitol is a cupola, from which -there is a beautiful view of the city of Albany, and the valley of the -Hudson, which is bounded on the right by the Catskill mountains, and on -the left by the mountains of Vermont. On the dome is a wooden statue -representing justice, to the back of which is secured a heavy -lightning-rod, so that witlings remark that she is standing in the -pillory. - - [Footnote I-9: [Recently deceased.]--TRANS.] - -At Albany are some remains of the feudal system. The Van Rensselaer -family, one of the oldest of the Dutch emigrants, obtained the country -around Albany at the time it was first settled, as a fief; it was -divided into different portions, and some of these were leased to -vassals who were obliged to pay a certain rent, and to render certain -services to the owner. The eldest of the Van Rensselaer family has -always borne the title of _patroon_, and enjoys certain feudal -prerogatives, for which the family are indebted to the great popularity -they have enjoyed ever since the revolution, though every recollection -of the feudal system is repugnant to the genius of the American -government. By the people in the neighbourhood, the house of the old -General Van Rensselaer is always called the _manor of the patroon_. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - _Journey from Albany to the Falls of Niagara.-- Erie Canal.-- - Schenectady.-- Utica.-- Rochester.-- Buffalo.-- The Falls of - Niagara, from the 14th to the 25th of August, 1825._ - - -On the morning of the 14th of August, we took passage on board the -Albany, one of the canal packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This canal was -built at an expense of $2,500,000, and will be completed in about four -weeks: at present, they are at work only on the western part of it. -During the preceding year, they received an income of $300,000, and they -expect, during the present year, after the canal shall have been -completed, an income of $500,000, so that the expenses will, in a very -short time, be replaced, and the state realize an immense profit, unless -it be necessary to make great repairs, which I have no doubt will be the -case, and will consequently require a large share of this income. -Hitherto the great canal system was unknown in the United States, and -was rather unpopular. It might have been expected, therefore, that so -great and rapid an undertaking, would have a tendency to astound, if we -may so speak, the public mind; so that this canal was finished as soon -as possible, without calling to aid the great experience possessed by -other nations. Notwithstanding, this canal, which is three hundred and -sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three locks, between the Hudson -and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred and eighty-eight feet above the -level of the former river, does the greatest honour to the genius of its -projector; though one who has seen the canals in France, Holland, and -England, will readily perceive, that the water-works of this country -afford much room for improvement. The canal is thirty-five feet wide on -the surface, twenty-eight feet at the bottom, and four feet deep, so -that none but flat vessels and rafts can sail on it. The packet-boat -which took us to Schenectady, was seventy feet long, fourteen feet wide, -and drew two feet water. It was covered, and contained a spacious cabin, -with a kitchen, and was very neatly arranged. On account of the great -number of locks, the progress of our journey was but slow: our -packet-boat went only at the rate of three miles an hour, being detained -at each lock, on an average, four minutes. The locks are fourteen feet -wide above the surface, and have a fall from seven to twelve feet. The -packet-boat was drawn by three horses, which walked upon a narrow -tow-path leading along the canal, and beneath the numerous bridges which -are thrown over it. These bridges, of which there are about three -hundred between Albany and Utica, are all built of wood, and in a very -awkward style; most of them belong to the farmers, and are intended to -serve as a means of communication between their fields. The distance -from Albany to Schenectady, by land, is only fifteen miles, and persons -are enabled to travel it in a very short time in the stage-coach; but as -we were anxious to see the canal, and get leisure to complete our -journals, we preferred going by water, twenty-eight miles. - -At Troy, five miles and a half from Albany, is the government arsenal, -which appears to be a large establishment. As far as this place, the -canal runs nearly parallel with the Hudson. Troy, which is very -pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of -several tolerably high mountains, one of which is called Mount Ida, -appears, if we may be permitted to judge from the large store-houses and -the good appearance of the dwellings, to be a wealthy place. Here is a -branch canal which has two locks, and establishes a communication with -Troy. Shortly after, we arrived at a place where there are no less than -nine locks, with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the -right of this, is another canal, which unites with the Hudson and the -canal from Lake Champlain. At this place we left the Hudson and directed -our course along the Mohawk river. During our ride we observed a covered -wooden bridge, which extends over the latter river, a short distance -from its mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by -fifteen wooden piers. Here we saw the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk -river, seventy-eight feet in height and about four hundred feet wide. In -the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of the Mohawk, -they are said to be extremely magnificent; during the present dry -weather, they presented a very handsome appearance, though they were -very small. The river was almost completely dried up. I walked over its -bed, which consists of slate rock, as far as its middle and near to the -falls. In some places the rocks are excavated by the action of the -water, and you may see holes which are full of water and are said to -contain excellent fish. Finding great difficulty in continuing the canal -on the right bank of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to -the opposite side by means of an aqueduct-bridge, one thousand one -hundred and eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is of wood, and is -supported by twenty-six stone columns, on account of which, they have -placed a _chevaux-de-frise_, to keep off the ice in the river about one -hundred yards off. The part of this wooden canal, which contains the -water, is about twenty feet wide and has a tow-path eight feet wide on -one side. These wooden aqueducts will probably soon require repairing, -and there is no doubt but that they will ultimately be obliged to build -them of iron. The canal is cut through the rocks, almost the whole -distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, and presents -a very handsome appearance. Twelve miles farther on, it returns again to -the right bank of the Mohawk by a similar aqueduct, seven hundred and -forty-eight feet in length and supported by sixteen piers. Above this -aqueduct, which is also protected by a _chevaux-de-frise_, there is a -common wooden bridge thrown over the river, for wagons. Four miles -farther on is Schenectady, where we arrived after sunset. Between this -town and Albany, we passed no less than twenty-seven locks. These, -though they are built of solid lime-stone, will soon require repairing, -as the water passes through them in various places. The gates also lock -badly, so that the water which percolates forms artificial cascades. The -country through which we passed to-day was generally wild and hilly, and -somewhat thinly settled. - -Schenectady is an old town containing about five thousand inhabitants, -and is intersected by the canal. At this place we left the packet-boat, -in order to proceed to Utica next morning in another boat, and found -excellent lodgings at Given's hotel, which, after the great heat we had -endured during the day, was exceedingly agreeable. Its inhabitants are, -in part, descendants of the Lower Saxons, and some of them whom I saw at -the tavern conversed with me in bad Dutch. Early on the next morning we -walked through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of -two large buildings situated a short distance from the town upon a -little eminence. It was the time of vacation, and consequently it was -perfectly silent. From its decaying appearance, I should judge the -college was not in a very prosperous condition. From this building you -have a beautiful view of the town, and of the Mohawk valley, which -appears here to be well settled. In the town we observed a peculiar -windmill, with a horizontal wheel, whose sails, about twenty in number, -stand perpendicularly. - -We left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat Samuel -Young, which had engaged to take us to Utica, eighty miles distant, by -an early hour the next day. It was a large boat, and, as the passengers -are obliged to spend the night on board, is provided with separate -apartments for the ladies. The canal again ran along the well-cultivated -valley of the Mohawk, and the country, on account of the foliage of the -trees upon the heights was beautiful. The village of Amsterdam consists -of a few neat houses; and opposite, on the right bank of the Mohawk, is -Rotterdam. On our way we passed several small aqueducts, the longest of -which rest only upon three piers, and extend over small brooks, which, -as well as the small rivulets, are distinguished by the Indian -appellation of "creek." The canal is carried over two rivers, called -Schoharie and Canajoharie creeks, from which it receives the most of its -water. At this place the horses are conveyed to the opposite side of the -two rivers by means of ferry-boats. At the first ferry is a small -village, called Fort Hunter, where, before the revolution, there had -been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening we -passed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains, one of -which is called Anthony's Nose. The houses we saw on our route, had -generally a handsome appearance; to-day and yesterday I observed also -some saw-mills. There are twenty-six locks between Schenectady and -Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and our company was very numerous. -I confined myself to writing, the whole day, as much as possible; but, -in consequence of the heat, I could not avoid sleeping. In the evening -we fortunately had a thunder-storm, which cooled the air. During the -night, as there was a want of births, the beds were placed upon benches, -and, as I was the tallest person, mine was put in the centre upon the -longest bench, with a chair as a supplement. It had the appearance of a -hereditary sepulchre, in the centre of which I lay as father of the -family. I spent an uncomfortable night, on account of my constrained -posture, the insects which annoyed me, and the steersman, who always -played an agreeable tune upon his bugle whenever he approached a lock. -During the night we passed an aqueduct bridge, which stands over a -solace, called Little Falls. Towards morning we passed through a -well-cultivated region, with some neat houses, called German flats, and -which was settled by some Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At -about twelve o'clock at noon we arrived at Utica, nine miles from the -place where we passed a lock, which is the last that occurs in the next -seventy miles. The land appeared to be marshy, and consisted of sand and -pebbles. - -Utica, which is intersected by the canal, is a flourishing town, of -about four thousand inhabitants, and stands upon the site where Fort -Schuyler, a redoubt against the Indians, was formerly situated. In 1794, -there was a small tavern here, which was the only dwelling house in this -part of the country; but at present Utica is one of the most flourishing -towns in the state of New York, and new houses are continually building. -In fact, it is only here that a person begins to admire the great -improvements in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works -of man, and of his enterprising genius! Utica, on the right bank of the -Mohawk, has two banks, four churches, an academy, and large and -convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing-office. It has also several -ale-houses, and three fine taverns, at the largest of which, called -Shepherd's hotel, we found excellent accommodations. In this house there -are always more than seventy beds for the accommodation of strangers; -and these, on some occasions, are barely sufficient. The number of -travellers this summer, is said to have been unusually great, especially -from the southern states, where the heat is intolerable, and the summers -generally unhealthy. In such an American tavern every thing is perfectly -comfortable, and proportionably cheap. The price for board and lodging -is a dollar a day. The bell for rising rings before seven o'clock in the -morning. The bed-chambers are spacious, the beds wide and comfortable, -and the linen fine and perfectly clean. The bed-chambers, moreover, are -furnished with the necessary wash-stands, &c. After a person is dressed, -he enters the bar-room, where he finds all kinds of strong and -refreshing drinks; the desk of the head waiter is also here, who attends -to the bill. The inn-keeper is generally a gentleman, who eats with the -guests, and leads the conversation. Besides the entry, where the boots -and shoes are left in the evening, and where they are found well cleaned -in the morning, there are several sitting, reading, and writing -parlours, &c. And if a person wishes a separate sitting-room, especially -when he travels with ladies, it may be readily had at a separate charge. -Half an hour after rising, they ring the bell for breakfast; and, upon -going to the dining-room, you find upon a covered table, beef-steaks, -mutton, broiled chicken, or other fowls, fish, and boiled potatoes, -which are of a very superior quality. The waiters, or in many places, -the servant-maids, hand the coffee and tea. As the Americans, in -general, are a quiet people, such a breakfast, which is eaten in great -haste, is attended with but little noise. Dinner is generally served at -about two o'clock, and tea at seven in the evening. At tea, the table is -again furnished as at breakfast, with the addition of ragouts and -baker's bread. Nobody is obliged to drink wine. There are usually water -and whiskey on the table, which are mixed in the summer, as the most -healthy drink. Every one must help himself as well as he can, for the -victuals are not handed about. Napkins you do not get, and instead, you -are obliged to make use of the table-cloth. With the exception of the -spoons, there is no silver on the table; the forks have two steel -prongs, and their handles, like those of the knives, are of buck's horn. -It is an excellent rule, that no one on departing is obliged to give -money to the servants. - -At Utica, seven of us for nine dollars hired a stage to visit the Falls -of Trenton, distant fourteen miles. Our passengers were partly from New -York, and partly from the state of North Carolina. We crossed the Mohawk -upon a covered wooden bridge, built in a bad and awkward manner, on -which I observed an advertisement, "that all persons who pass this -bridge on horseback or wagon faster than a walk, shall be fined one -dollar." After this, our road gradually ascended to a forest, which was, -however, in part cleared for new fields. The timber is so much neglected -here, that they will very probably feel the want of it in less than -fifty years. At a short distance from the falls of West Canada Creek is -a new tavern, which is situated in a lately cleared forest, and is built -entirely of wood. At this tavern we left the carriage, and went on foot -through thick woods, from which a pair of stairs conduct to the falls. -A new pair of wooden stairs of about eighty steps, built for the -accommodation of strangers, leads to the bed of the river. This consists -entirely of slate-rock, is about two hundred feet wide, and is enclosed -between high rocky banks, which are lined by beautiful and lofty firs, -_arbor vitæ_, the maple, the elm, and the cedar. This beautiful mass of -green, the azure sky, the large and variegated rocks, and the three -falls, produce a most happy effect. The rocks at these falls, which, on -account of the great heat, scarcely extended over half the river, are so -excavated by the water, that they have the form of a common kettle. The -upper falls, which are about ninety feet high, are the grandest; and -near them, under the shade of an _arbor vitæ_, an adventurer has -established a small tavern, which presents a very picturesque -appearance, and is said to yield considerable profit. The rocks contain -handsome petrifactions of shells, plants, and animals; and we saw one -specimen a foot and a half long, which resembled a young alligator; of -the smaller ones we took several specimens. At the tavern where we had -put up, we found a tolerably good dinner, and towards evening returned -to Utica. The day was fine and pleasant. The thunder-storm of yesterday, -had done some good. I regretted that it was too late upon our return to -Utica, to visit a hydrostatic lock, designed to weigh the boats which -pass on the canal. - -Having seen enough of the canal, and being anxious to see the -newly-settled country between this place and Niagara, we determined to -continue our journey on the next day in the stage-coach. With this -intention we left Utica at 4 o'clock in the morning of the 17th of -August, and the same day arrived at Auburn, distant seventy-three miles. -The stage-coaches in this country do not, as in England, travel ten -miles an hour, but usually six; as the country is generally hilly, and -the coach, when it carries the mail, stops at every village where there -is a post-office, on account of the great number of newspapers; the -letter-bag must be taken out, opened, again locked, and then returned; -the coachmen also are not very punctual, so that travelling is not so -rapid as it should be. The villages between Utica and Auburn were New -Hartford, four miles, Manchester, five miles, Vernon, eight miles, -Oneida, five miles, Lenox, four miles, Sullivan, eight miles, Manlius, -six miles, Jamesville, five miles, Onandago Hollow, five miles, Onandago -Hill, two miles, Marcellus, eight miles, and Skeneatelass, six miles. - -Between Manchester and Vernon day dawned, and we found ourselves in a -rather wild country, in the midst of a wilderness. Oneida is an Indian -settlement, and was built by the remnant of the once mighty Oneida -tribe, who, unlike their countrymen, unwilling to fly before the white -settlers to the west, are at present a wretched people, despised and -oppressed by their neighbours like a gang of gypsies. They have been -obliged to learn trades, and to labour on farms; they have also been -converted to Christianity by means of missionaries, and of whom the -principal one is a Mr. Williams, a converted Indian, educated by the -Quakers. On entering the village we observed on a little eminence to the -left, a small, neat, frame church, where the Indians hold their service, -and close by, an open plain, surrounded by butternut trees, called -"Council Grove" where the elders of the tribe assemble to deliberate on -their most important affairs. The houses of the Indians are scattered -through the fields, are generally small, and built of logs. In the -centre of the village are white settlers, mechanics and tavern-keepers; -the latter of whom in particular make out well, as the Indians are fond -of strong drink. The land belongs to the whole tribe, and each -individual labours for the common good. We observed several Indians -along the road. They had a tawny complexion, and black hair; the men -appeared to be well built, and the women were stout, and resemble the -pictures of Esquimaux women in Parry's Travels. Some of them wore their -hair down, which, if possible, increased their ugliness. Both the men -and women wear trowsers, generally of blue, and ornamented with white -lace; sometimes also of two colours, like the prisoners at Boston. The -men wear shirts over their trowsers, and great-coats of cloth. The women -dress in white or blue woollen mantles. At first, I thought myself in -civilized Europe, for a great number of children came along the carriage -to beg, a circumstance which had not occurred since my arrival in the -United States. It was soon ascertained, however, that they were Indian -children, dressed somewhat like their parents, and of the same -complexion. The girls had brass buckles on their cloaks, which fastened -in front, and most of them wore large bead necklaces. - -Behind this village the road led along a considerable hill, from which -we had a beautiful view of Oneida Lake, which presented the appearance -of a large stream. Here you have a number of extensive prospects, which, -however, as you see but little cultivated land and few houses, is rather -uniform. Farther on we saw a small lake called Salt Lake, which is in -the midst of a forest, and has on its banks three picturesquely situated -towns, Liverpool, Salina, and Syracuse. At Salina are rich salt springs, -the water of which is collected in reservoirs, and it is evaporated by -the heat of the sun to procure the salt. Beyond Sullivan we passed -through the village of Chitteningo. It contains several mills, a cotton -factory, and a branch of the Erie Canal, which forms a kind of harbour, -and serves as a landing place for articles manufactured here, and for -the plaster and lime which are procured in the neighbourhood. This lime -becomes hard under water, so that it is excellently adapted to -waterworks. We dined at Manlius, a new village, containing two churches. -Besides the usual stage-coach there were two others to-day, all full of -passengers. In our own we had for a short distance a farmer, -a descendant of a German emigrant, who spoke the language that was used -in Germany about a hundred years ago. He thought my German was too high, -and that I spoke it like a parson. From the canal which forms an angle -here, we drove in a southerly direction, in order to keep on the plains, -as the main road, which is nearer, leads over a hill. The two Onondago -villages appear to be flourishing manufacturing places, and are -pleasantly situated. Marcellus is also a new village and has two -churches. Most of the small villages have two churches, an Episcopal and -a Presbyterian. In each of them, and even at the Indian village, there -is a school. In several of the villages also I had the pleasure of -seeing bookstores. Beyond Marcellus the night unfortunately closed in, -which prevented me from seeing Skeneatelass Lake, as well as the town of -the same name, which is said to be extremely pleasantly situated on one -of its banks. About nine o'clock in the evening we arrived at Auburn, -and found good accommodations at one of the public houses. This town -contains upwards of one hundred and fifty houses, a court-house and -penitentiary, which is said to be managed in a very excellent manner. To -my regret I saw none of them; for at four o'clock the next morning, 18th -of August, we set out in the stage-coach for Rochester, distant -sixty-nine miles. The villages which we passed on our route were, -Cayuga, nine miles, Seneca Falls, three miles, Waterloo, five miles, -Geneva, six miles, Canandaigua, sixteen miles, Mendon, fifteen miles, -Pittsford, seven miles, from which latter it was yet eight miles to -Rochester. - -It was just daylight as we arrived in the vicinity of Cayuga, on the -lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles long, and from one to -three wide. This lake empties into the Seneca river, which afterwards -unites with the Mohawk. We crossed the lake not far from its mouth, on a -wooden bridge, one mile in length, eighteen yards wide, and built in a -very rough and careless manner: the planks are loose and the -_chevaux-de-frise_ is in a bad condition. On the opposite side of the -lake is a large toll-house. At a short distance from this we arrived at -Seneca Falls, so called in consequence of the little falls of the Seneca -river, which are close by, and are chiefly formed by a mill-dam. At the -tavern we met an Indian and his wife, of the Oneida tribe, who were -going on a visit to the Senecas. We conversed with the man, who had been -at school, and understood English. He told us that he had been raised by -a Quaker missionary, and that he was a farmer, and concluded by asking -for a little money, which he probably spent with his ugly wife at the -next grog-shop. - -All the villages through which we passed are quite new, and in many -places we passed through primitive forests, which, in some places, they -are just beginning to clear. At Waterloo the first house was erected in -1816, and at present it has two churches and about three thousand -inhabitants. Several of the houses are built of brick, and contain well -furnished stores. At the tavern we saw a large, beautiful young eagle, -which had been caught in his nest and tamed. The country beyond Waterloo -was boggy, and the road in some places made of large logs, so that we -were very disagreeably jolted. Geneva is situated at the north point of -Seneca Lake, which is between fifty and sixty miles long and about five -wide. The town derives its name from its similarity of situation to -Geneva in Switzerland. It is also quite new, and contains about four -thousand inhabitants. It has two churches and several large stone and -brick houses, of which the Franklin Hotel, situated on the bank of the -lake, is the most spacious and beautiful. I went into a bookstore to -ascertain what kind of books were most sold in this part of the country, -and was told that the ancient classics and religious books found the -most ready sale; sometimes also novels, law and medical works. The -college is said to have several hundred students. In front of the town -along the lake, there are beautiful country seats and gardens. On the -other side of the town the woods are but a short distance from the -houses, and are as yet not much cleared. We saw, however, several tracts -of timber on fire; the trees are burnt in order to clear the land. - -Canandaigua, which lies on the north point of the lake of the same name, -which is about twenty miles long, is an extremely beautiful and pleasant -town, that has been but lately settled. The Duke de la Rochefoucault -says, that during his travels in America, in 1790, there was but a -single house on this lake, in which he spent the night, in a garret used -as a store-room. Now it is a beautiful commercial town, having one bank, -a court-house, and a very superior tavern. The court was sitting, and -there was a large collection of people, so that the town exhibited a -very lively appearance. At this place the road separates, the left goes -through Batavia and several small villages to Buffalo on Lake Erie; the -right, to Rochester, and thence to Lake Ontario and the Falls of -Niagara: and as this road again approaches the Erie canal, it is said to -be the most interesting. On this account we gave it the preference, -although the longest route. - -We left Canandaigua in the afternoon, and rode through Victor, Mendon, -and Pittsford, to Rochester. On this route we observed nothing -particularly interesting, excepting several new settlements; the -inhabitants of which resided in log-houses, which had a peculiar, but by -no means an unpleasant aspect. I was particularly pleased with the neat -and decent appearance of the inhabitants. - -We arrived at Rochester at half past eight o'clock in the evening, and -took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern. We crossed the Genesee river, which -divides Rochester into two parts, on a wooden bridge, the first that we -had hitherto met in the United States that was built firmly and -properly. It rests upon stone piers, and is made of solid beams, with -thick and well fastened planks. The next morning we walked through the -town, and were pleased with its rapid increase. In 1812, there was not a -single house here; nothing but a wilderness; and the land could be -purchased at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. At present, -Rochester is one of the most flourishing towns in the state of New York. -It contains four churches, one bank, a court-house, and about four -thousand inhabitants. Many of the houses are built of blue limestone, -and of brick. The town contains several mills and manufactories; and -amongst others, a nail factory, in which the nails are made with a -machine, as in Birmingham. They also manufacture rifle-guns, which are -very long and heavy. On the right bank of the Genesee river, the houses -are not so numerous as on the left, and there are yet many frame, and -even some log-houses: in the place where, probably in a short time, -handsome wharves will be built, there may yet be seen stumps of trees--a -truly interesting sight to those who observe the progress of this -country. The basements of the houses are generally built of rough -sand-stone; their corners, doors, and windows, of a kind of white -marble-like sand-stone, and the rest of brick. The white sand-stone is -procured in the neighbourhood, and is cut into slabs at a saw-mill on -the Genesee river. I saw three of these blocks sawed; and in one frame I -observed no less than five saws. Several hundred yards below the bridge -the Genesee river is about two hundred yards wide, and has a fall of -ninety-five feet, which at present, however, did not appear to much -advantage. Above the falls is a race which conducts the water to several -mills, and it again flows into the river below the falls, where it forms -three beautiful cascades, which reminded me of the Villa di Mäcen, at -Tivoli. - -At Rochester the Erie canal is carried over the Genesee river by a stone -aqueduct bridge, and resembles that of the Bridgewater canal at -Manchester, in England. This aqueduct, which is about one thousand yards -above the falls, rests upon a base of slate rock, and is seven hundred -and eighty feet long. A work which has been lately published, called the -"Northern Tour," gives the following description of it: "The aqueduct -consists of eleven broad arches, built in the form of circular segments, -the tops of which are raised eleven feet above the level of the arches, -and fifteen feet above that of the water in the river. The two exterior -arches have an extent of forty feet each, and beneath them are the -streams which turn the mills; the other nine each fifty feet wide, &c." -Upon one of its sides is a tow-path secured by iron railings. The whole -is a solid work, and does much credit to its architect, Benjamin Wright. - -We left Rochester at nine o'clock, on board the canal packet-boat Ohio, -Captain Storch. The canal, between Lockport and Rochester, runs a -distance of sixty-three miles, through a tolerably level country, and -north of the Rochester ridge. This ridge consists of a series of rocks, -which form the chain of the mountains which commences north of Lake -Erie, stretches eastward to the Niagara river, confines it, and forms -its falls, then continues its course, and forms the different falls -which are north of Lake Ontario, and is at length lost in the -neighbourhood of the Hudson. It has only been within the last year that -this part of the canal has been passable; its course is through dense -sombre forests, in which are but few settlements, such as Spencer's -Basin, Bates, and Brickport. The bridges are better and higher than -those we have mentioned in the preceding pages. Amongst our passengers, -was a Mr. Bosch, a Dutch clergyman from Curaçao, and the Rev. Messrs. -Sluiter and Wykoff, from New York. These gentlemen, being of Dutch -descent, the conversation was generally carried on in their native -tongue. Captain Storch also, who is a native of Amsterdam, and a Jew by -birth, who has travelled extensively, made the time pass very -pleasantly, by his lively disposition, and his agreeable conversation. -Both before and after dinner, as well as at tea, the two clergymen from -New York, asked a blessing; and before we retired to bed, one of them -read several chapters in the Bible, and then made a long prayer. - -We reached Lockport on the 20th of August, about 7 o'clock in the -morning. At this place the canal is carried over the ridge by five large -locks, through which the water is raised to the height of seventy-six -feet. The locks are ten in number, being arranged in two parallel rows, -so that while the boats ascend in one row, they may descend at the same -time in the other. Through this arrangement the navigation is greatly -facilitated, and the whole work, hewn through and surrounded by large -rocks, presents an imposing aspect. - -Lockport, to which we repaired, while the boat was left in the basin at -the foot of the locks, is an extremely interesting place, and is -situated just above the locks. In May, 1821, it consisted of two -log-houses; at present it contains not less than six hundred, some of -which are stone houses: it contains a post-office, one printing-office, -which issues a weekly paper, and two churches. Though at present -Lockport appears perfectly wild, yet this appearance will no doubt -vanish in the course of four or five years, so that it will present as -splendid an appearance as Canandaigua and Rochester. On our arrival, the -canal was still unfinished for about five miles; but it was supposed -that the whole would be completed before the close of the year. They -were obliged to cut it through solid rock, generally about thirty feet -deep, for a distance of more than three miles. This was mostly effected -by blasting. Several hundred Irishmen were at work. They reside in log -huts, built along the canal. They make much money; but they suffer also -severely in consequence of the unhealthy climate, especially from -fevers, which not unfrequently prove fatal. The stone, which is -quarried, is employed in building houses, and in making turnpikes. In -breaking the rocks they often find beautiful petrifactions, and other -remarkable minerals; for example, _strontian_, and beautiful transparent -_gypsum_. I saw a large petrified tree, and a handsome petrified -_sea-coral_. - -At Lockport we took a dearborn for Buffalo, where we were anxious to go, -in order to see the union of the canal with Lake Erie. Though a good -stage runs between Lockport and the Falls of Niagara, we went in this -bad vehicle five miles, to the navigable part of the canal. The road led -through the forest, the trees of which had been felled along the canal, -and passed over the stumps, so that it was uncommonly rough, especially -as it had rained the day before. Arrived at length at the navigable part -of the canal, we took passage on board a rather bad boat, where nothing -was to be had but the common cordial, whiskey. The village where we went -on board, is called Cottensburgh, and is quite a new settlement. At this -place also the canal is cut through rocks to the depth of about thirty -feet. About two or three miles farther on, it terminates in the -Tonnawanta Creek, which serves as a canal for twelve miles. This creek -has scarcely any outlet, so that when it rises much, they are obliged to -protect the canal by means of safety-locks near its union with the -creek. At the outlet of the creek into the Niagara is a sluice for the -purpose of keeping the water always at a certain height. The creek -itself is about fifty yards wide, and runs through a dense and beautiful -forest, which has never been touched by the axe, except along the canal, -where they have been obliged to make a tow-path. I sat in the bow of the -boat during the whole passage. Nothing interrupted the solemn silence, -except the chattering of the boatmen's teeth, who are often severely -affected in this unhealthy part of the country, with the intermittent -fever. Another small river, called Eleven-mile Creek, unites with the -main river, and not far from this junction was the site for the new town -of Tonnawanta. A few small houses and a saw-mill were already erected; -the inhabitants appeared also to suffer much from the intermittent -fever. Here the Tonnawanta Creek, unites with the Niagara, where the -sluice which we have just mentioned leads off. At this place also we had -the first view of the Niagara river, which conveys the waters of Lake -Erie into Lake Ontario, from the other extremity of which flows the St. -Lawrence. In the river we observed Grand Island, which contains about -one thousand one hundred acres, is overgrown with timber, and belongs to -a New York editor, Moses Mordecai Noah, a Jew, who purchased it for the -purpose of establishing a Jewish colony. The soil is very good; during -the late war between England and the United States, the Niagara, it is -well known, formed the boundary line between them and the British -provinces of Upper Canada, and this island bore testimony of the bloody -conflict. From this place, the canal runs along the bank of the Niagara, -from which it is separated only by a small bank, built rather -carelessly, and several feet above the level of the river, which is -already somewhat rapid on account of its vicinity to the falls. On the -Tonnawanta Creek we saw several canoes which were made by excavating the -trunks of trees. From Tonnawanta to Buffalo it is eight miles, five of -which we travelled on the canal as far as Black Rock. A basin is formed -here by means of a dam situated near Squaw Island, on which is a lock -communicating with the Niagara. The whole of this work is of wood, and -cannot therefore be expected to be very durable. In the basin lay the -new steam-boat Henry Clay, of three hundred tons, intended for running -on Lake Erie. We had here the first view of the lake, whose shore -appeared to be overgrown with wood. The other shore of course we could -not see, and it seemed therefore as though we were looking into an -expanded sea. The canal to Buffalo not being completed, we again took -stage at Black Rock, and rode three miles to the former town, where we -arrived at about 5 o'clock at evening, and took lodgings at the Mansion -House, pleasantly situated on a little eminence in the lake. - -Buffalo was burnt during the late war, by the British, but it has arisen -from its ashes with increased beauty. The town contains about five -thousand inhabitants, and will, in consequence of its situation near the -mouth of the canal and its harbour, at which they are hard at work, soon -become an important place. At the entrance of the harbour is a -light-house, and on the lake we observed several schooners of about -three hundred tons. A steam-boat, called the Superior, was ready to -start with fifty passengers to Erie, and thence to Detroit. In the -streets, we saw some tolerably well-dressed Indians of the Seneca tribe, -who have their wigwam three miles distant. Amongst them were several -women, who indeed, but for their complexion, might have been considered -handsome. We also had an amusing military spectacle. It consisted of a -militia parade, consisting of thirty men, including seven officers and -two cornets. They were formed, like a battalion, into six divisions, and -performed a number of manoeuvres. The members were not all provided with -muskets, but had ramrods instead. Only the officers and the -rifle-company, four men strong, were in uniform. The band consisted of -sixteen men, and was commanded by an officer with a colonel's epaulets -and drawn sword! - -On the following day, 21st of August, we left Buffalo for the small -village of Manchester, twenty-three miles distant, and situated on the -right bank of the Niagara, near the falls. As far as the village of -Tonnawanta the road passed along the canal. It was in a very bad -condition, cut through the forest, and no pains have been taken to -remove the trees, which are thrown on the road side, and the most -beautiful trunks are permitted to spoil in a pitiable manner. On the -left we had a view of the river and of Grand-Island, thickly studded -with timber. The river is more than one mile wide below the island. On -the Canada side is the village of Chippewa. From this place, a distance -of three miles, we could already see the rising vapours of the falls. -The water, however, indicated no signs of the approach to the precipice. -It is only a short distance from Manchester, where you perceive the -lofty trees on Goat-Island with its heights, situated in the midst of -the falls, that the river becomes rocky, and the rapids commence; these -form a number of small falls, which are nearly a mile long and the same -in breadth, running as far as where the two great falls are separated by -Goat-Island. - -At Manchester, we took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern, and hastened -immediately to the Falls: our steps were guided by their mighty roaring. -In a few moments we stood near the precipice, and saw before us the -immense mass of water which rushes with a tremendous noise into the -frightful abyss below. It is impossible to describe the scene, and the -pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings of -insignificance and grandeur which agitate the human breast at the sight -of this stupendous work of nature! We can only gaze, admire, and adore. -The rocks on both sides are perpendicular, but there is a wooden -staircase which leads to the bed of the river. We descended, but in -consequence of the drizzly rain which is produced by the foam of the -water, we had by no means so fine a prospect from below as we -anticipated. On this account, therefore, we soon ascended and satisfied -ourselves by looking from above upon this sublime and majestic sight. As -we returned, full of these mighty impressions, to the Eagle Tavern we -found to our great joy a fine opportunity of speaking of the grandeur -and magnificence we had just beheld. Lieutenants De Goer and Van Vloten, -of the Pallas, had just arrived to render homage to this great natural -curiosity. - -In company with these gentlemen we took a walk to Goat-Island, by a -convenient wooden bridge, thrown over the rapids about seven years -since. The first bridge leads to a small island called Bath-Island, -which contains a bath-house and billiard-room: the second to -Goat-Island, which is about one mile in circumference, and overgrown -with old and beautiful trees. The Indians who formerly resided in this -part of the country, considered the island as sacred. They used to say -that the _Great Manito_ or _Great Spirit_ inhabited it. And in fact, how -could the Great Spirit manifest himself more irresistibly than in the -destructive might of the tremendous Falls? - -On Bath-Island a person may approach so near to the American falls as to -look into the abyss below. The animals in the neighbourhood are so -careless of this, that the cows and horses go into the river to drink -within five yards of the brink of the precipice. From the foot of the -falls you can see nothing of the abyss, inasmuch as every thing is -concealed by the foam and vapour. On Goat-Island a person may in the -same manner approach the Canadian falls, in the centre of which is a -semicircular hollow, called the Horse-shoe, and here the noise is still -more tremendous than on the other side. The vapour which rises from the -Horse-shoe forms a thick mist, which may be seen at a great distance. To -look into the Horse-shoe is awful and horrible. Nor can this be done but -at the instant when the vapour is somewhat dissipated. You stand like a -petrified being. The level of Lake Erie is said to be five hundred and -sixty-four feet above that of the sea, and three hundred and thirty-four -feet above the waters of Lake Ontario. Lake Ontario is consequently two -hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. From Lake Erie to -the rapids the water has a fall of fifteen feet, in the rapids -fifty-seven feet, and according to a recent measurement, the falls on -the American side are one hundred and sixty-two feet high. From this -place to Lewistown the river has a fall of one hundred and four feet, -and thence to Lake Ontario, of two feet. - -The next morning, 22d of August, we made another visit to Goat-Island. -We afterwards descended the stairs to the river, which we crossed in a -small boat, at a short distance from both falls. The bed of the river is -said to be here two hundred and forty-six feet deep. The current passes -beneath the surface of the water, and does not again become visible till -after a distance of three miles. On the Canada side you have a much -better view of the falls than on the American, for you see both falls at -the same time. There is on the Canada side a covered wooden staircase, -which we ascended, and approached the falls, amidst a constant drizzling -caused by the falling water. The sun threw his rays upon the thick mist -and formed a beautiful rainbow. Another winding staircase leads down the -rocks near the falls, under which you may walk to the distance of one -hundred and twenty feet; several of the gentlemen present went in, but -according to their report they could not see any thing. I was contented -therefore to behold the falls from Table rock, which almost overhangs -them. A part of this rock gave way several years ago and fell down the -precipice, and the remaining part is so much undermined by the water -that it will probably soon follow. The whole distance from the American -to the British shore is fourteen hundred yards, of which three hundred -and eighty belong to the American falls, three hundred and thirty to -Goat-Island, and seven hundred yards to the Canada or Horse-shoe falls. -On the British side, opposite to the falls are two taverns, in the -larger of which, Forsyth's Hotel, we took lodgings until the next day, -when we intended to pay a visit to the governor of Upper Canada, Sir -Peregrine Maitland, who resides at his country seat within a few miles -of the falls. During the late war a bridge was thrown over the river -about one mile above this tavern, which, together with a mill, was burnt -by the Americans on their retreat from the battle of Lundy's Lane. A few -years ago a burning spring was discovered here, several of which are -said to occur in different parts of the United States. It is surrounded -by a cask, and contains a cold water of a blackish, slimy appearance, -and of a sulphurous taste. Within this cask is a small vessel which is -open at the bottom, and has a pipe at its upper end. If a lighted candle -be held within a foot of the mouth of this pipe, it will instantly -produce a strong flame, similar to a gas-light. If the vessel be taken -out, and the candle be held over the surface of the water, it will -produce the same effect, but the flame will soon disappear. In the -neighbourhood of Forsyth's Hotel is the only point from which you have a -full view of both falls at the same time, which, however, is often -interrupted by the ascending vapour. - -On our return to the American shore, we examined a _camera obscura_ -which is situated at the head of the American staircase, and was built -by a Swiss. This gives a tolerably good view of the falls. Afterwards we -took a ride to the Whirlpool, which is three miles down the Niagara, and -is formed by a kind of rocky basin where the river runs between narrow -rocky banks. It is singular to see this confusion of the water, whose -appearance cannot be better described than by comparing it with the -flowing of melted lead. The lofty rocks which form the banks of this -river, are beautifully covered with wood and present a stately, majestic -appearance. In the evening I again went to Goat-Island in order to view -the falls by bright moonlight: in this light they produce a very -peculiarly beautiful effect, which is greatly heightened by a -moon-rainbow. - -The following day, 23d August, all our company departed; my friend Tromp -and myself alone remained. We went to the other side of the river, and -took lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel, where we found Sir Michael and Lady -Clare, from Jamaica, where Sir Michael is a member of parliament: he was -making a tour of pleasure, with his lady, through the United States. -I also became acquainted with a Mr. Grymes, of Virginia, who was -formerly attorney general of the state of Louisiana, and is married to -the widow of the late Governor Claiborne, a beautiful and wealthy -creole. As this family were also going on a tour to Canada, I hoped to -travel with them. Mrs. Grymes spoke French, a circumstance which was -exceedingly agreeable on account of the facility with which I could -converse with her. I also found the son and adjutant of the governor, -Sir Peregrine Maitland, who had been sent by his father, to await my -arrival. In a short time after, this worthy general came himself to pay -me a visit, and offer me a room in his cottage, four miles off. This I -refused, but on the evening of the following day, I rode to Sir -Peregrine's in company with Sir Michael and Lady Clare. The road went -over the battle-ground at Lundy's Lane, (25th July, 1814,) which is -situated upon a gentle eminence, and through the beautiful village of -Stamford. The fields here are much better cultivated than in the United -States, and there is not so much waste of timber. The clearing is done -with much more order and regularity. Sir Peregrine resides at his -cottage, in summer, which was built by his father-in-law, the Duke of -Richmond, and surrounded by a park. His winter residence is at York, on -the northern shore of Lake Ontario, the seat of the parliament of Upper -Canada. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - _Journey from the Falls of Niagara to Montreal.-- The - Battle-ground at Queenstown.-- Newark.-- Kingston.-- Montreal._ - - -On Thursday, the 25th of August, we took our final leave of the falls, -in the forenoon, in company with the Grymes and Clare families, for the -town of Newark, which is situated at the junction of the Niagara with -Lake Ontario, on the Canada shore, about fourteen miles distant. At -first our road passed over small hills, until we reached the -battle-ground at Queenstown, a steep hill, which is situated behind -Queenstown, and commands a view of the whole surrounding country. From -this, the country as far as Lake Ontario, is more level. Opposite to -Queenstown, on the American shore, is Lewistown. - -The battle of Queenstown took place on the 13th of October, 1812. The -English, under the command of General Brock, occupied the heights, whose -right wing borders on the Niagara, having a deep ravine in front, and -whose left wing gradually slopes towards other no less considerable -eminences, which they had slightly fortified. General Solomon Van -Rensselaer, the present post-master in Albany, and cousin of General Van -Rensselaer, the patroon, encamped with the American troops, consisting -of regulars and militia, on the opposite shore, near Lewistown. General -Van Rensselaer was apprised that General Brock, with the greatest part -of his corps, had marched towards the west, and that there were but few -troops left on the heights. He determined therefore to cross the river, -to make himself master of so important a position. During the night he -conveyed his regulars, about one thousand four hundred men, over the -river, and gave orders that the militia should follow on the return of -the boats, and form a reserve in the rear. These troops gained the -heights, and nearly surprised the British, who, notwithstanding, made a -bold resistance. The Americans would, however, have remained masters of -the field, had not General Brock returned with his detachment. Brock was -a brave soldier, and hearing that the troops whom he had left behind, -were in a dangerous position, he immediately attacked the Americans with -but a single company. In this attack he found a glorious and memorable -death. The Americans kept the heights as long as possible; their -ammunition, however, being nearly exhausted, General Van Rensselaer sent -orders to the militia to advance. The general himself hastened to the -opposite shore to accelerate their movements; he was answered that they -were ready to defend the borders of the United States, but it was -contrary to the laws of the country to take them out of it. The troops -of the line in the meanwhile, having exhausted their ammunition, were -obliged to retreat; they expected to embark, but not finding any boats, -they were compelled, after a heroic defence to surrender as prisoners of -war. On the place where General Brock fell, the parliament of Canada has -erected a monument to the memory of that brave and intrepid soldier. It -consists of a lofty column, which may be observed from every part of the -adjacent country. It was not yet completed, and wanted the inscription. - -We expected to meet the steam-boat Queenstown at Newark, in order to -proceed to Kingston, on the eastern extremity of Lake Ontario. We missed -it, however, and were afterwards informed that it had been obliged to -put in at another harbour on account of repairs. We were compelled, -therefore, to remain three days at Newark. Newark is a regularly built -town, with several handsome houses; it is situated at the outlet of the -Niagara into Lake Ontario, between Fort George and Missagua. Fort -Missagua is near the lake; Fort George lies south of Newark, and is in -ruins. During the last war, both these forts were occupied by the -Americans, and from Fort George towards the town, they had raised a -bulwark so as to form a kind of intrenchment. After they had evacuated -this position, and were obliged to retreat to the right shore of the -Niagara, the commander, General M'Clure, burnt the town of Newark, an -act for which he has been severely censured by his country. Since this -occurred, the village has never properly recovered, and its future -increase will also be slow, especially as government is digging a canal -to the west of Newark, which is to connect Lake Erie, and Lake Ontario, -which will probably hereafter withdraw all the transitory commerce. Our -time passed very agreeably in this town, particularly through the -attention of the worthy Sir Peregrine Maitland, who had come hither; the -politeness of Major Cob, and the gallant officers of the seventy-sixth -regiment, of which four companies were at Newark, as well as the -delightful singing of Mrs. Grymes, who remained with her husband, while -many others, with whom we had expected to sail, went away. - -We visited Fort Niagara, which is situated on the American shore, and -which, in consequence of its white houses, and its waving flag, presents -a very handsome appearance. The fort lies on a neck of land; it was -erected by the French in the middle of the last century, and was shortly -after taken by the British. After the peace of Versailles in 1783, it -fell into the possession of the United States, was retaken during the -late war by the British, and at the peace of Ghent, was again obtained -by the United States. We saw all that was to be seen, and found every -thing clean and comfortable. I will only further remark on the present -occasion, that the uniform of the United States' Infantry is very -simple, and consists of dark blue cloth, with one row of white buttons, -blue lace collars and cuffs of the same, white cord, and leather caps. - -We also visited the village of the Tuscarora tribe of Indians, who -reside within the limits of the United States, about three miles from -Lewistown. The village consists of single houses, or wigwams, and is -handsomely situated in a valley surrounded by forests. It contains a -frame church, in which the service is performed by a methodist -missionary, who also, during the winter, keeps school for their -children. Most of the houses are surrounded by gardens and orchards; and -the fields, in which they mostly cultivate Indian corn, appeared to be -in a very good condition. We were conducted into the house of an Indian, -about forty years of age, who had been educated in one of the schools in -New York, who speaks and writes English fluently. We found him in his -bed suffering from an attack of rheumatism. He inquired after our native -countries, and was pretty well acquainted with their geography. We -examined his library, and found that it consisted chiefly of methodist -religious books, with a history of the United States. He also had a -collection of Indian implements of war, consisting of a club of hickory -wood, a battle-axe of stone, bows and arrows, the points of which are -flint, very artificially made; an oblong stone, a kind of serpentine, -which the savages wear on their breasts during an engagement, and -ornaments of glass beads and shells, which they wear around their waists -in time of battle. All these articles I wished to buy; but the Indian -told me that he kept them for the inspection of strangers, and that they -were not for sale. Instead of them, he sold me some mocassins, a kind of -soft leather shoe, made of buckskin, which are ornamented with silk and -beads, and a small basket. Amongst the Indians, the women are obliged to -do all the work, even of the most degrading kind. Mr. Tromp, in order to -see several articles more conveniently, had placed his hat on the floor, -which was scarcely observed by the Indian, before he desired Mrs. Grymes -to put it upon a chair. His grandson, a boy of eleven years, shot very -expertly at an apple with his bow and arrow. - -The steam-boat Frontenac, arrived in the evening after our return, and -was to sail on the following day for Kingston. We went on board and -examined her cabin. Around the dining-cabin there are six chambers, each -containing four births. I was shown into one of these, in which I could -lie at full length. In the ladies cabin are fourteen births. A great -part of the deck was covered by an awning, so that passengers could -enjoy the fresh air at the same time that they were protected from the -sun or bad weather. The boat carries seven hundred and fifty tons, and -has an engine made by Bolton and Watt, at Soho, near Birmingham, of -twenty-seven horse-power. Sir Peregrine Maitland conveyed me to this -vessel in his carriage. She lay at anchor off Fort George. Sir Peregrine -had the great politeness to station one of the companies of the -seventy-sixth regiment with a flag, to fire a salute of twenty-one guns; -and his attention was still farther shown in sending his son along, that -I might have no difficulty in seeing the navy-yard, at Kingston. The -Frontenac sailed at half past five o'clock. In a few moments we were on -the lake, and in a short time lost sight of land, and were apparently in -the open sea. There was but little wind, and the vessel, in consequence -of its great size, produced no disagreeable rocking. During the whole -evening we were entertained by Mrs. Grymes, by her delightful -performance on the guitar, and by her singing French and Spanish songs. -The night passed quietly; but it was otherwise at break of day. It -rained repeatedly; the wind grew stronger; the vessel pitched, and -several persons became sea-sick. Lake Ontario is of an elliptical form, -is about two hundred miles long, and fifty-five miles at its widest -part. It is everywhere very deep, in some places five hundred feet, and -never freezes completely over. It contains several good harbours, and -the boundary line between Canada and the United States, divides it into -two nearly equal parts. - -In the afternoon we saw a small peninsula towards the west, called -Prince Edward's Island, and passed between a cluster of small islands, -called the Ducks. About nine o'clock in the evening we reached Kingston, -the British harbour on Lake Ontario. We cast anchor close by the town. -I spent the night on board, and in the morning, as I awoke, I found one -of the companies of the thirty-seventh regiment, who are here in -garrison, marching along the quay, near the vessel, as a guard of -honour, accompanied by a band of music. I dismissed them of course -immediately, and after having received the visits of a few officers, -we rode over the bay to the dock-yard, which lies opposite to Kingston, -surrounded by a high wall and protected by a strong guard. By the -navy-list I ascertained that there are ten ships here, with three -hundred and six guns, in ordinary. It appeared to me, however, that the -number of guns was greater, for the St. Lawrence, one of these vessels, -carried one hundred and twenty guns, and two which are yet on the -stocks, the Montreal and Wolf, have three decks, and ports for one -hundred and thirty guns each. According to the stipulation of the treaty -of Ghent, they are not permitted to build any ships here during time of -peace; so that the soldiers at the arsenal consisted merely of the -necessary officers, besides twelve carpenters, who had scarcely any -thing to do, but to work at an elegant little schooner, which was -shortly to be launched to serve as a yacht. The large vessels on the -stocks were uncovered, and appeared to have suffered much from the -weather. The St. Lawrence was the largest vessel in the river, and is -said also to be in a state of decay; her bottom especially has suffered -from the effects of the fresh water and worms. The wharves of the -dock-yard are built of wood, and bear marks of the haste in which they -were erected; they were in a bad condition. Within a few years they have -erected a magazine, three stories high and one hundred and ninety-two -feet long, with iron doors and shutters, for the preservation of the -sails and cordage. The partitions in the inside are made of wood. -Immediately on our entrance into the magazine the large iron door was -locked and kept so, inasmuch as they greatly mistrust the Americans. -Beneath the building is a cellar, which is also occupied as a magazine, -and the floor of which consists of limestone, which serves for the -foundation of the whole building. The stairs are of stone, and are built -into a tower; they intend also at some future period, to make the -different floors fire-proof, like the magazine at Plymouth, by covering -them with iron. In a distinct massy building are the forges, and in a -third the offices. By the side of the offices is a large room, which -contains the different articles used in ship-building. Opposite to the -dock-yard, on a neck of land, is Fort Frederick, which I had not time to -visit. Behind the dock-yard, upon a small height, stood a number of -tents. We were informed that about four hundred Irish emigrants had -encamped there, who had been sent to this country at the expense of the -English government, to settle a piece of land on the north-western bank -of Lake Ontario, whither they were soon to go. The town of Kingston -contains about two thousand inhabitants, and is built in the usual -style. - -We left Kingston after eleven o'clock, on board the steam-boat Lady -Dalhousie, for Prescott, sixty-eight miles from Kingston, on the left -bank of the St. Lawrence. Adjutant Maitland left us at Kingston, but the -rest of the company remained. We had scarcely left this place before we -sailed round a promontory on which stands Fort Henry, into the St. -Lawrence. This river is here very wide, and forms an archipelago about -fifty miles in length, called the thousand islands. The English and -American commissioners for determining the boundary line, took the pains -to count these islands, and found that they amounted to sixteen hundred -and ninety-two; in this calculation, however, they have included every -projecting rock, even if it had but a single tree. This archipelago -presents a beautiful prospect; most of the islands are rocky, and are -overgrown with trees, generally cedars. Here and there a fir reared his -lofty head, which, generally growing upon the bare rocks, where the -trees are less numerous, presents a picturesque appearance. We observed -something similar to the picture of Frederick, of which we were often -reminded in descending the St. Lawrence. Eighteen miles from Kingston -our vessel stopped at the village of Gananoqui, on the Canada shore, -to take in wood. I went for a moment ashore and found an insignificant -village, in the neighbourhood of which the river of the same name falls -into the St. Lawrence. The Gananoqui river has a rocky bed, and is -crossed by a wooden bridge, beyond which, upon a small eminence, is a -square two story log-house, the upper story of which was formerly -occupied as a garrison by about forty men. During the late war the -Americans got possession here of an English post and a magazine, in -consequence of which they built this block-house. At the extremity of -the archipelago of the thousands islands is a similar block-house for -the protection of the navigation of the river. - -On the Canada shore, about fifty miles below Kingston, where the -archipelago terminates, is the small village of Brockville, where there -are some fine magazines near the river. At this place the night set in, -which was warm and moonlight. We found two taverns in the village, but -they were so full of people, and had such a dirty appearance, that I -preferred spending the night on board the steam-boat, and my example was -followed by the families of Messrs. Clare and Grymes. The steam-boat -carried one hundred tons, and was of twenty-five horse power, but she -was by no means so convenient and comfortable as the Frontenac. - -At this place commence the rapids of the St. Lawrence. They are formed -by rocks, which extend obliquely across the river, over which the water -rushes with tremendous force, so that between this place and Montreal, -a distance of one hundred and thirteen miles, the steam-boats can run -only a part of the way. On this account, therefore, there is a line of -stage-coaches and steam-boats between Prescott and Montreal, which take -the passengers alternately, and produce much vexation in consequence of -the baggage. The rapids may be descended in bateaux, or Durham-boats, -which are small, flat vessels of about forty tons, have but half deck, -and draw eighteen inches of water. The Durham-boats have a mast and two -sails, and carry large cargoes of goods. We were anxious to undertake -the passage, in order to see the rapids, and to ascertain the danger of -which so much has been spoken. We therefore went on board a Durham-boat, -the Flying Dutchman, paid two dollars for each passenger, and were -assured by the captain, that, if the wind should be good, we should be -at Montreal in a day. Sir Michael resolved to attempt the enterprise, -and his lady accompanied him, in spite of her fears. Mrs. Grymes, -however, was so much afraid, that she preferred travelling partly in the -stage and partly by steam-boat. - -We embarked on board the Flying Dutchman, at about 6 o'clock, early in -the morning of the 30th August. The morning was delightful, and as we -were much pleased with the beautiful prospect of Prescott, in the -neighbourhood of which is Fort Wellington, a redoubt, which was built -during the late war. - -On the American shore we saw the town of Ogdensburgh, which was -fortified by the Americans during the late war, but soon fell into the -hands of the British. The comforts of our vessel were not, as we have -remarked, very great. It was open, a few barrels of potash served us as -a floor; and boards laid across our trunks as seats. Six miles below -Prescott we arrived at a few islands called the Gallop Islands, and the -first rapids. As we approached, the water appeared to be boiling, and -high foaming billows arose, over which our boat passed rapidly. They are -not so high as the swells at sea, but they are very short and rapid in -their movements. As our Durham-boat, however, was remarkably long, it -divided them without producing any disagreeable motion. Scarcely had we -passed the rapids before the river became again smooth, and as we had -scarcely any wind, our progress was but slow. Another set of rapids, -nine miles long, were passed in an hour, and with no more danger than -the preceding. We were assured, however, that a branch of these rapids, -from which we were separated by an island, are very dangerous. It is -called the least channel; and Duncan, in his Journal, gives a beautiful -description of a shipwreck that occurred here, in which many lives were -lost. Our vessel was not only flat at the bottom, like all the others -that pass these rapids, but had also an ingenious false keel, which -could be lowered and raised as the water was either shallow or deep. Our -passengers were principally of the lower class of Canadians, who spoke -bad French, somewhat like the Walloon. There was also a lively young -black bear, three months old, on board. - -About twenty miles below Longsault, we reached the village of Cornwall, -on the Canada shore. The wind was so feeble that we had no hopes of -reaching a good tavern before dark, we determined, therefore, to stay -here all night. Towards evening, Mr. Grymes' family also arrived by -land, and took lodgings at the same tavern. The village is small, but -the streets intersect each other at right angles, and contain several -new stone houses. It appears to be a place of little business. The -country is pretty flat, and the plain near the village is used by the -British as a race-ground. A race was to take place in a few days, horses -had already arrived and lodgings were bespoken. The British government -sends many Scotch emigrants into this part of the country. - -Our departure on the following morning was delayed two hours by the -ladies; and it was not until about 7 o'clock that we left Cornwall in -our Durham-boat. The morning was very pleasant, and in consequence of a -rather strong southerly wind, we glided rapidly along. Five miles below -Cornwall, on the right shore, we saw the village of St. Regis, the last -belonging to the United States. The American line here leaves the St. -Lawrence, both shores of which belong to Canada as far as its outlet -into the sea. On the left bank of the river we descried a new Scotch -village, called Glengary Settlement. Farther on, you reach a lake, -called Lac St. François, through which the St. Lawrence flows, and -through which the boundary line between Upper and Lower Canada is drawn. -This lake, which is about forty miles long, and six broad, contains a -number of islands. Not far from St. Regis we passed one of these -islands, which is inhabited by some Indians, who have been baptized by a -Catholic missionary, and have their island in a good state of -cultivation. One of the Indians, with his wife, came along side of us in -a canoe, and sold us some fish. At the point where Lac St. François -terminates, and where the St. Lawrence again commences, is the village -of Coteau de Lac, on the left bank of the river. At this village is a -pretty strong rapid, stronger than those we passed yesterday. In order -that this rapid may be avoided, and that vessels may ascend with more -ease, the government has had a canal dug along the river, which has two -locks, and is covered by a small fort, Fort du Coteau. - -Our captain had business at the custom-house; he stopped therefore for -an hour, during which I had time to look at the fort; after which we -continued our course in a strong wind which was brought on by a -thunder-storm. The shores and islands of the river are generally covered -with cedar trees, and amongst them we observed some neat houses and -churches, with bright tin roofs. At the village of Coteau des Cèdres, we -were obliged to encounter the last and most dangerous rapid, called the -Cascades. The waves were uncommonly high, and our vessel passed over the -dangerous parts with incredible velocity. Along these rapids there is -also a canal provided with locks, and intended to facilitate the ascent -of vessels. If these rapids are viewed from the shore, it appears -incredible that a canoe should venture in without being swallowed up. -Such a misfortune, however, does not happen, as we had just proved. -Below this rapid the river, where it receives the Ottawa, again spreads -out so as to form another lake called Lac St. Louis. North of this lake, -and at the place where the Ottawa unites with the St. Lawrence, it forms -another lake, Lac des deux Montagnes, which is separated from Lac St. -Louis by three islands, called Jesus, Perrot, and Montreal. The -thunder-storm passed close by us; the wind blew heavy, but favourably. -We met a steam-boat, having a corpse on board, and her flag at -half-mast; this was a bad omen! Another steam-boat got ahead of us as we -were passing towards La Chine, and excited our desire to sail faster; -but suddenly we saw a terrible storm approaching. In an instant every -hand was endeavouring to take down the sails, and the small one was -fortunately drawn in before the arrival of the squall, but the large -one, in consequence of its bad cordage, was only half way down when it -struck us. Near us we observed a sound, with a dangerous cliff, which it -was necessary to avoid by steering to the left, but we were driven -directly towards it. Six men could scarcely manage the helm. Half of the -sail floated in the water, and our destruction appeared inevitable. No -one knew who commanded; the sailors thought themselves better qualified -than the captain, and every thing was hurry and confusion. I deemed it -best to remain silent, and commit myself to the care of Providence, who -guides the destinies of man. At length a sailor climbed the mast and cut -the cord, so that the sail could be taken down, by which time we had -fortunately passed the sound. The storm also, which altogether did not -last much longer than five minutes, began to abate. The steam-boat ahead -had been in the same dangerous situation, and would have been cast upon -the rocks in the sound, had she not speedily returned into the lake, -where she cast anchor. Immediately after the storm, during which it had -rained, we observed a remarkable phenomenon, viz. a fall of white-winged -insects, of which a great quantity fell upon our boat. It continued -during five minutes. These insects had in all probability been driven -from the neighbouring forests. The storm, though unpleasant, had the -effect of propelling us swiftly forwards. After 6 o'clock in the -evening, we reached without any other unpleasant occurrence La Chine, -a village, which has a harbour situated upon the island of Montreal. - -La Chine appears to be an insignificant village, though in consequence -of its favourable situation, it is said to do considerable business. The -French was spoken so badly here, that I thought myself transported to -our provinces of Hennegau or Namur. The village is said to have obtained -its name from the circumstance that during the time the country was -occupied by the French colony, they believed they could pass to China by -way of the St. Lawrence; and with this object, an expedition had been -fitted out, which embarked at La Chine. - -Between La Chine and Montreal, the river has a very dangerous rapid, on -account of which the government has built a canal as far as this place, -which is nine miles long, has several locks, and is said to be of much -importance to the trade. As we preferred going by land we hired a -stage-coach, and started about eight o'clock in the evening during a -violent thunder-storm. Lady Clare, who was scarcely recovered from the -fear which she experienced on the water, would willingly have spent the -night here in a tavern, as she was much afraid to travel during a -thunder-storm at night. It soon turned out that her fears were not -unfounded. We had scarcely passed three miles over a good turnpike road, -before we came in contact with several carts that stood in front of a -tavern, loaded with iron bars. The drivers had gone into the tavern, and -left their carts in the middle of the road, and as the night was dark we -approached one of them so suddenly that three of the iron bars entered -the breast of our shaft-horse, which immediately fell and expired. After -much dispute between the coachman and the carters, we rode on with three -horses, and arrived at Montreal about ten o'clock at night. We stopt at -the Masonic Hall, a hotel which has been established within the last -year. It is a very large, convenient, massy building, four stories high, -and built of blue stone. It affords a fine view of the St. Lawrence, -which is upwards of twelve hundred yards wide here. At our arrival, -I became immediately acquainted with Captain Mellish, of the engineers, -who was sent from England on a scientific expedition into the interior -of the colony. - -We remained at Montreal nearly three days. The city, which I examined in -company with Lieutenant Colonel Evans of the seventieth regiment, in -garrison here, contains about twenty-five thousand inhabitants. It -extends upon a hill to a considerable distance, between the St. Lawrence -and Le Mont Réal, which is about seven hundred feet high, and is lined -with timber. It has two principal streets, which run parallel with the -river, and are intersected by a third, that runs along the ditch of the -demolished fortresses. The houses are generally built of blue stone, and -covered with bright tin, have iron doors and shutters to protect them -against the fire, which give the city a very dismal appearance. In our -walk we passed a number of young men who wore belts, and were dressed in -blue coats, the seams of which were covered with white cord. We were -informed that they were the pupils of the Catholic ecclesiastical -school. It is well known that most of the Canadians, and four-fifth of -the inhabitants of Montreal, are Catholics; they are bigotted, and the -lower classes are exceedingly ignorant. There is a very broad street, -which unites the two principal streets, and in the centre is the -market-house. At one of the extremities of this street, are the -court-house and prison; behind which is the place where the old forts -stood, since converted into a parade. Montreal has several hospitals, -which are superintended by nurses. These hospitals, however, are not -sufficient, especially as the nuns do not admit any fever patients. In -consequence of this, some of the most wealthy citizens have joined, and -selected a healthy spot, on which they have erected a new hospital, -three stories high, capable of containing seventy patients of both -sexes. In this hospital, the sick, fifty in number, receive cheap and -excellent accommodations. They are under the care of nurses, and are -attended gratis, by the best physicians of the city. The arrangement is -similar to that of the hospital at Boston, but there is less of luxury -here in their management. - -The public library is as yet small, though it is rapidly increasing. It -has united with it a cabinet of natural history. We also observed the -foundation for a large cathedral, which is to be built by private -contributions. At the barracks of the subalterns, I was much pleased -with the mess-room, which has a library connected with it; I was also -much gratified with the school for the education of the soldiers, and -their children. The barracks were formerly occupied as the Jesuit -college, which stood in the old French citadel, of which not a vestige -remains. Not far from the barracks is a steam-engine, which conveys the -water from the river into the city, at the same time that it moves a -mill. At the market-house stands a monument erected by the colony in -honour of Lord Nelson. It consists of a statue resting upon a single -column. On one side of the pedestal is an inscription; two others -contain representations of naval engagements; and the fourth, -a representation of the capitulation of Copenhagen. - -The next day, Lieutenant-colonel Mac Gregor conducted me to the parade, -where a part of his regiment was assembled. They formed a battalion of -six divisions. The battalion exercises were not performed, but the -manoeuvres, which were very complicated, and only adapted to the place, -were executed with much precision and admirable celerity. I learned a -new mode of making ready. At the command "ready," the soldiers levelled -their muskets, cocked them in this position; at the command "fire," they -brought them slowly to their cheeks. The infantry were divided into two -bodies, but in making a flank march, they formed into three, by passing -through the files. The platoons were divided into sections, containing -from four to six files, in consequence of which the oblique march was -easily executed. - -After this manoeuvre was completed, we took a boat, in company with the -officers, for the island of St. Helen, oppositely to Montreal, in the -middle of the St. Lawrence. This island contains a large artillery -depôt, under the direction of Major Wallace. Upon landing we were -saluted with a discharge of twenty-one guns from the battery on the neck -of the island. This battery is of a crescent shape, and serves as a -training-place for the company of artillery stationed here. The gunners -were just practising with one nine, and one six pounder, and a -seven-inch howitzer, each of which was charged with grenades. The mark -stood in the river, and their dexterity was such that the grenade never -exploded before reaching it. The skill consists chiefly in the proper -calculation of the fuse, so that the powder of the grenade may explode -the moment it is over the mark. - -St. Helen was the only point that the French retained after all Canada -had submitted to the British power. It is about two miles in -circumference, and is covered with fine elms and different kinds of nut -trees, particularly the hickory. The soldiers have made excellent paths -through and around the island. A botanic garden was established here a -few years ago by the government, in which all the North American plants -are collected, for the purpose of furnishing gardens in England. On the -north side of the island you have some beautiful views of the shores of -the river, and Montreal, with her numerous churches, and situation at -the foot of the green mountain, presents a very imposing appearance. -Here are also the arsenal and barracks, new massy buildings, which are -protected against a _coup de main_ by a breast-work, as well as by -embrasures in the walls. The interior of the island is hilly, and in a -really romantic valley is a powder-magazine, containing four thousand -barrels of powder. Through Major Wallace, who resides in a very -beautiful house at the barracks, we became acquainted with his wife and -daughter, who pass their time very pleasantly at their solitary -habitation in music and drawing. During the winter, the people who are -obliged to stay on the island are sometimes prevented from going to -Montreal for six weeks, in consequence of the ice. - -After our return to Montreal we took another ramble through the city, -and observed some very large stores. As Montreal carries on some fur -trade through the Ottawa river, with the Hudson Bay and North-west -Company, I had supposed I should be able to procure some cheap fur; but -I found little that was good, and this was valued at an enormous price. -In the evening we went to the Royal Circus, whose pompous advertisement -had promised a large company of riders and a good play. The riders, four -grown persons and two boys, performed some tolerably good feats; but the -play was so badly managed that we soon returned to the house. The -theatre is in other respects handsomely arranged: it has two tiers of -boxes, and a circle for the horses, which, during the play, forms the -pit. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - _Journey from Montreal to Quebec.-- Stay at Quebec.-- Return to - Montreal-- from the 3d to the 9th of September, 1825._ - - -About 8 o'clock in the evening of the 3d of September, in company with -Messrs. Grymes and Clare's families, we embarked on board the steam-boat -Lady Sherbrook for Quebec, one hundred and eighty miles from Montreal. -Montreal wants good wharves, a circumstance which we felt sensibly on -going on board the steam-boat, as we were obliged to walk in the dark -through the mire, which was particularly disagreeable to the ladies. We -had taken state-rooms on board the vessel, so that the ladies could live -alone, and not be obliged to sleep in the common ladies cabin. To me it -was also pleasant to have a small room to myself. At Montreal I met -Captain King, of the English artillery, with whom I had become -acquainted at Boston, and who likewise travelled to Quebec. The other -passengers were not numerous. - -The steam-boat was one hundred and fifty feet long, carried eight -hundred tons, and her engine was of sixty horse-power, much too little -for such a large and heavy vessel. It started after 9 o'clock in the -evening. During the night it stopt an hour at the outlet of the river -Sorel into the St. Lawrence, at William Henry, a small town, so called -in honour of the Duke of Clarence. They were obliged to take in wood; -for the American and Canada steam-boats are not, like the European, -heated with stone coal, but with wood, which takes up much room on the -vessel, and much time in loading. - -The next morning we stopt on the left bank of the little town Les Trois -Rivières, which contains two thousand five hundred inhabitants, is -eighty miles distant from Montreal, and situated where the St. Maurice -empties itself into the St. Lawrence. Before we came to this place, we -had to go through Lake St. Pierre, which is formed by the widening of -the river St. Lawrence. The banks of this river are thickly inhabited on -both sides, and are also said to be cultivated and productive. The river -is throughout from one to two miles wide, but fifty-two miles below -Trois Rivières, at the village of Richelieu, it becomes narrower, and -here are the last rapids, called Rapids de Richelieu. The banks, which -as far as this place are pretty low, become higher and more rocky, -particularly on the left side. The neighbourhood is remarkably handsome -and picturesque. The majestic stream with its pleasant banks and the -view of the distant blue mountains near Quebec, produce an indescribable -effect. The weather was favourable, a clear sunny day, and not very -warm; in this northern latitude you can already perceive the approaching -autumn by the coolness of the nights and mornings. - -We reached Quebec at 10 o'clock in the evening. This city consists of -two parts, the upper town, which is built on a rock, and the lower, -which is pressed in between the river and the rock. The lights in the -lower town and the fortifications, had an elegant appearance, when -contrasted with the dark rock. The first coup d'oeil, which was by night, -reminded me of Namur, as it is seen from the right bank of the Maas. -In the river were many vessels, mostly used for carrying wood. It was -already late, and we should have found difficulty in transporting our -baggage by night, besides other inconveniences in finding lodgings for -the ladies, so we spent this night also on board the steam-boat, where -we were very comfortable and found it cleanly. - -The next morning, after dismissing the guard which the governor had -appointed to escort us, we went to our lodgings, in the upper part of -the town. The lower town is very narrow, and has a filthy appearance. -The streets are not paved, and badly provided with side-walks. The road -which leads to the upper part of the town is very steep. It stands on a -rocky ground, and its fortifications are elevated three hundred and -fifty feet from the level of the ocean. The upper is separated from the -lower town by a stone wall, which has the form of a horn-work. Through -this wall is a gate, which has a guard, the guard-room is opposite the -gate, and by means of a portcullis defends the entrance. For the -convenience of foot-passengers, there is a door near the gate, with -wooden stairs, by ascending which you reach the upper town. On the right -side of the gate is a building which resembles a chapel, and serves for -the house of commons of Canada. In order to get home, we were obliged to -go round part of the walls of the town. Even here you have an -indescribably beautiful view of the Bay of Quebec and the right bank of -the river, which has the appearance of a cape called Point Levi. - -Shortly after our arrival, I received a visit from Colonel Duchesnay, -first adjutant of the governor-general, and from Colonel Darnford, -director of engineers. The first gentleman came to bid me welcome, in -the name of the governor, and the latter begged to show me the -fortifications. Lord Dalhousie, governor-general of all the British -possessions in North America, was at that time in England, but was -expected daily. During his absence, the government was under the -direction of the lieutenant-governor, Sir Francis Burton, brother of -Lord Conyngham. He is a civilian, but is said to fill his high post with -credit. The good spirits the inhabitants are in, and the harmony that -exists in the colony, is mostly owing to his good management, and his -humane and friendly deportment towards them. It is said of Lord -Dalhousie, that he has estranged the hearts of the people from himself -and the government, through his haughty and absolute deportment, and the -opposition party in the Canadian parliament has thereby been -strengthened. - -With the above-mentioned public officers, we wandered through the city, -and first of all visited the government house, which is a large old -building, vacant during the absence of Lord Dalhousie. The rooms are not -large, and were not as richly furnished as I expected to see the mansion -of an English governor-general. At the back of the house, over the -vault, is a large balcony, from which one can see part of the town, the -harbour, and the surrounding neighbourhood. The citadel is a new work, -and not quite finished. The English speak with a kind of exultation of -the fortifications of Quebec, and compare it to Gibraltar. I also -expected something extraordinary, but cannot say that my expectations -were gratified. The heights near the town are the well-known plains of -Abraham, or more correctly heights of Abraham, upon which, on the 12th -of September, 1759, the battle between the English general, Wolfe, and -the French general, Marquis Montcalm, took place; a battle which cost -the lives of both generals, and in which the French were defeated with -the loss of the town and colony. - -General Wolfe took possession of the Isle d'Orleans, and made himself -master of Point Levi. The Marquis de Montcalm, upon the heights by the -falls of Montmorency, with his army in a fortified position, heroically -received the attack of General Wolfe and drove him back, with great loss -to the English army. On this occasion, General Wolfe embarked his men in -the night, took advantage of the darkness to pass the town, sailed up -the St. Lawrence, and disembarked at the place that is now called -Wolfe's cove. He mounted the rock with a great deal of difficulty, and -then put his army at the break of day in order of battle on the Heights -of Abraham. To assist the town, and drive the English from the heights -of Abraham, the Marquis de Montcalm found it necessary to leave his -impregnable position at Montmorency, and to cross, by a bridge secured -by double piers, over the river St. Charles. He now, with Quebec in his -rear, drew up his army upon the heights in good order and gave battle, -the result of which was unfortunate to him and his government. - -The English engineers make use of bricks which are burned in England, -for building the casemates of the fortification. A thousand of these -bricks cost the government, including transportation, two pounds ten -shillings! The reason they give is, that the bricks burned here, crack -in the winter. I rather believe that the preference of these foreign -bricks has some other reason. - -The arsenal is a large, yet not bomb-proof building, in which there are -more than twenty thousand muskets, and some useful pistols. We also saw -here several very handsomely ornamented single and double-barrel guns, -which are kept for the purpose of making presents to Indian chiefs. - -The upper part of the town is very old and angular, the streets are -muddy, and many not paved. Both towns contain about twenty-five thousand -inhabitants. The Catholic cathedral is quite a handsome building; it has -three altars, and paintings of but little value. On account of the -coldness of the climate the church is floored. The inside of the church -is divided like English churches, into aisles. It is near the seminary, -an old French building, with massive walls, having four corners like a -bastion. In this seminary resides the Bishop of Quebec. We had already -been introduced to Bishop Plessis, in the house of Sir Francis Burton, -and found him a very agreeable and well-informed man. He is the son of a -butcher of Montreal, and has elevated himself by his own merit. A few -years ago he travelled through England, France, and Italy, where he -received the title of Archbishop of Canada, from the pope. The English -government in the mean time, took into consideration, whether they would -recognise his title, because he would, as archbishop, rank in the -Canadian parliament before the English episcopal bishop. We paid our -respects to this worthy man. He received us kindly, surrounded by many -young priests. His secretary showed us the building and the garden. The -scholars had a vacation, and the house was deserted. They are not all -destined for the priesthood; the most respectable people of this country -have their sons brought up in this institution, in which they receive a -very good education. The Catholic clergy are very much respected here, -and they are said to deserve it, on account of the information they -possess, and the benefactions they bestow. The English government left -them all the emoluments and prerogatives which they possessed before the -colony was conquered. On this account, the clergy are obedient to the -government, and exert their best influence over the people in favour of -the government. In the seminary is a small philosophical apparatus. The -natural history cabinet is not very rich; the best part of it is a -collection of East India shells. The garden of the seminary is rather -large, and serves as a fruit and vegetable garden, &c. - -Nine miles from Quebec is the waterfall of Montmorency, to which we -travelled, escorted by Colonel Duchesnay. The road passed through the -palace gate. This is the gate where General Arnold made his attack, when -he stormed the place in December, 1775, and was wounded in the leg. His -column had already pressed into the city, and would certainly have taken -the town, if General Montgomery, who attacked the lower town from the -side of the St. Lawrence, had met him at the same time. This, however, -was impossible, as General Montgomery fell, and after his death his -division fell into confusion, and retreated. An English artillerist, -returning to the only cannon placed there, which had already been -deserted, set a match to it, killed this hero with twelve men, and thus -saved the town. - -We crossed the river St. Charles over a long well built wooden bridge, -and continued our journey partly on a road cut through the rock, having -the St. Lawrence always in view. The neighbourhood is well cultivated; -several farm-houses have a very ancient appearance. The handsomest of -them belongs to the seminary at Quebec, and serves the priests as a -pleasure ground. About the middle of the road is the village Beaufort, -where one has a very good prospect of the city, the right bank of the -St. Lawrence, the Isle d'Orleans, and down the stream. We left the -carriage at the river Montmorency, over which a wooden bridge is thrown, -and walked nearly to where the Montmorency empties itself into the St. -Lawrence. At that place are the falls, two hundred and seventy-five feet -high. The surrounding country is extraordinarily beautiful. Near the -waterfall is a cave, where the soil is either sunk, or washed away by -the water; it is a narrow deep crack in the earth, which you cannot -behold without shuddering. When the water is high, there are three -falls. The middle one precipitates directly down, the two others cross -over the middle one. The drought, however, of the summer of 1825, and a -canal, which drains the water from the river to drive saw and other -mills, has lessened the quantity of water in the river, so that only one -of the three falls has water, and instead of seeing the other two, you -perceive the bare rock. This rock is slate. At Quebec and Point Levi, -it is limestone; in Quebec it is interspersed with silicious crystals, -hence its name Cape Diamond. The stones of Point Levi are used for -building houses and fortifications; all copings are made of this stone. -Most of the trees in this neighbourhood are cedar. Below the falls of -St. Lawrence they have constructed a little harbour by means of two -piers, whence they trade in boards on account of its nearness to the -sawmills. About a mile and a half above the great falls, in the same -river, are others. The channel at these falls is very narrow between the -rocks, and formed like stairs; on this account, they are called the -natural stairs; resembling very much, though in miniature, the falls of -Trenton, near Utica, and are situated in a thick forest of fir, pine, -and cedar trees. The road from the bridge to this place, and hence to -the turnpike, is a very obscure footpath through the woods. - -On the second and last day of my sojourn at Quebec, I went to the -parade, escorted by Colonels Durnford and Duchesnay. I was pleasantly -taken by surprise, when I found the whole garrison under arms. The -commanding officers wished to show me their corps. On the right wing -stood two companies of artillery, then a company of sappers and miners, -after this, the sixty-eighth, and lastly, the seventy-first regiment of -infantry. The last is a light regiment, and consists of Scotch -Highlanders; it appeared to be in particularly good condition. This -regiment is not dressed in the Highland uniform, which was only worn by -some of the buglemen. It has a very good band of buglemen, who wear -curious caps, made of blue woollen, bordered below with red and white -stripes. The troops defiled twice before me. - -On the 6th of September we sat out in the steam-boat for Montreal. Sir -Francis sent us his carriage, which was very useful to the ladies. On -the dock stood a company of the sixty-eighth regiment, with their flag -displayed as a guard of honour, which I immediately dismissed. The -fortification saluted us with twenty-one guns; this caused a very fine -echo from the mountains. Night soon set in, but we had sufficient light -to take leave of the magnificent vicinity of Quebec. - -The journey, of course, was more tedious in ascending than in descending -the river. Fortunately the tide was in our favour during the night, -until we passed the rapids of Richelieu. In the morning we stopt at -Trois Rivières to take in wood; we then went slowly on. I employed this -leisure in writing, but was often interrupted. In this boat they have -four meals daily, and at every repast they drove me from my writing -place. In the morning at seven o'clock, they ring the bell for the -passengers to rise and dress; at eight o'clock breakfast is served, -which consists of tea, coffee, sausages, ham, beefsteak, and eggs; at -twelve, they take luncheon; at four, dine; at eight, take tea; and an -hour before every meal they set the table. The weather was cloudy nearly -the whole day; it began to rain towards evening, and continued raining -through the night. - -At Sorel, or William Henry, we came to, in order to land some -passengers, and take in wood. This place is situated on the right bank -of both rivers, at the confluence of the Sorel or Richelieu, (the only -outlet of Lake Champlain,) with the St. Lawrence. The French built a -fort here, which stands yet, if such bad palisades, barracks, and -arsenals, deserve that name. The town itself was built in the year 1785, -by the so called American tories and discharged soldiers. It contains -two churches, about one hundred houses, and six hundred inhabitants, -whose houses are mostly of wood, and stand separately in the streets, -which are arranged in squares, and occupy a great space. It is built on -a sandy soil, and has a poor aspect. Generally speaking, the towns in -Canada bear a very poor comparison with those of the United States, and -will never arrive at the same point, because the settlers in Canada are -mostly poor Scotchmen and Irishmen, who come out at the expense of the -government; they receive land, and are oppressed by the feudal system, -which opposes all prosperity; emigrants, however, who possess some -property, and have an ambitious spirit, settle themselves in the United -States, where nobody is oppressed; on the contrary, where all the laws -are in their favour. - -At Fort Sorel is stationed a garrison, a detachment of the seventieth -regiment, commanded by a sergeant; an artillery detachment which was -moving to Montreal, tied its sloop to our steam-boat, and came on board; -the artillerymen mostly intoxicated. Towards evening, we learned that -the sloop contained three boxes of gunpowder, which caused us a great -deal of uneasiness. The danger was so much the greater, as the sparks -were continually flying from the pipe of the steam-boat, which the wind -drove towards the sloop. I was one of the first who received the -information, and immediately gave the alarm. All the passengers agreed -in persuading the captain during this rainy and stormy night to remove -the sloop some distance from our boat, and place in it an officer and -three of the least intoxicated artillerymen. The night was dark, and we -were compelled to cast anchor and remain till morning. - -The next morning the weather was still cloudy and rainy; the storm was -particularly strong, and the wind ahead. The machinery was too weak to -make any progress. We therefore saw Montreal three hours before we could -reach it; the current particularly was so strong between Montreal and -the Isle of St. Helen, that in spite of the machinery we were driven -backwards. At last we were obliged to draw up the boat by aid of six -oxen, two horses, and ten men. The Lady Sherbrook, however, is one of -the oldest steam-boats on the St. Lawrence, and the captain himself -confessed that she was so rotten that she was not worth repairing, and -will soon be condemned. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, after we had -been forty-six hours on our journey, which took but twenty-six hours -going down, we were landed at Montreal. The battery on the Island of St. -Helen saluted us with twenty-one guns. The first information we received -was, that fifty houses were burned down yesterday in the suburbs of the -town, and that this misfortune fell mostly upon the poorer class, whose -houses were not insured. - -Mr. Bingham, from Philadelphia, who married a rich heiress here, and -turned Catholic to get possession of her estate, gave a ball to-day, in -honour of the first birth-day of his only daughter, and politely invited -our company. We accepted the invitation, and rode to the ball at 9 -o'clock. He was twenty-four years of age, and his wife nineteen; has -many friends, because his cellar is well filled, and has the talent to -spend his money liberally among the people. We found assembled in his -rich and tastefully furnished halls the whole fashionable world of -Montreal. They mostly dance French contra dances, commonly called -Spanish dances. To the contra dances, in honour of the officers of the -seventieth regiment, who are the favourite young gentlemen, they have -adopted tedious Scotch melodies; to the Spanish dances they played -German waltzes. The native ladies conversed in very soft Canadian bad -French, not even excepting our handsome landlady. I took particular -notice of a Miss Ermatinger, the daughter of a Swiss, and an Indian -woman, on account of her singular but very beautiful Indian countenance. -She was dressed in the best taste of all, and danced very well. Indeed -there was a great deal of animation at this ball, as well as a great -deal of luxury, particularly a profusion of silver plate and glass in -the house of Mr. Bingham, whose sister is the wife of the banker, -Baring, of London. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - _Journey from Montreal to New York.-- Isle Aux Noix.-- Lake - Champlain.-- Lake George.-- Falls of Hudson.-- Glenn's Falls.-- - Saratoga Springs.-- Saratoga Battleground.-- Shaker Settlement - at New Lebanon.-- Military School at West Point._ - - -As the season was so far advanced, I wished to reach New York without -delay. We therefore concluded to travel soon, and visit Lake Champlain -to its southern extremity, then to Saratoga, Albany, and further down -the Hudson to New York, taking the Catskill mountains by the way, and -inspecting the famous military school of West Point. With this view, on -Friday, the 9th of September, we went on board the steam-boat Montreal, -which runs between Montreal and the right bank of the river. -Lieutenant-Colonel M'Gregor and Major Loring escorted us to the boat. -In half an hour we found ourselves on the other side of the river. We -landed near the village Longueuil, where stage-coaches awaited us, which -carried us and our baggage to St. John, situated on the river Richelieu, -about twenty-seven miles from Longueuil. The road lies several miles -along the banks of the river St. Lawrence, till you arrive to the -village of La Prairie. In this village we took our leave of this noble -neighbourhood and majestic stream, on whose banks we had tarried so -agreeably. The road led through a plain, which was very little -cultivated, and containing few trees. We only met with a single village -called Lavane. Here and there we observed some larch trees. About half -past one in the afternoon, we reached the village of St. John, having -arrived a mile from the above-named village, at the river Richelieu. -Here we went on board the American steam-boat Phoenix, in order to sail -for Whitehall. This vessel deserves the name, because the boat, whose -place it supplies, was of the same name, and burned some years ago on -Lake Champlain. The new Phoenix is commodious and clean, one hundred and -twenty feet long, having machinery of forty-six horse-power. Both banks -of the river were thickly timbered. Ten miles above St. John we reached -an island called Isle Aux Noix, the last English strong post on Lake -Champlain. The captain had the politeness to tarry here a short time, -in order that I might survey the island and its fortifications. - -Isle Aux Noix contains about ninety acres, and is very flat and swampy. -The fort is called Fort Lenox, in honour of the late duke of Richmond; -it consists of a regular square, with four bastions and two ravelins, -and is built according to the system of Vaubans. On account of the -swampy ground, the fortification which anciently stood here, is almost -sunk. The revêtement is a half one, and formed of wood, as well as the -scarp and counterscarp. The whole lower wall consists of roots of trees, -mostly cedar, placed horizontally crosswise, and only those roots which -constitute the revêtement stand upright. On the horizontal roots earth -is thrown and rammed. The engineers believe that this costly work will -stand thirty years. I however believe it would have been better if they -had rammed the roots into the ground and put a grate upon that, and then -a strong stone revêtement, or still better if they had arched it _en -décharge_. The two ravelins, whose basis is also of wood, lie before -the northern and southern front. Under the curtain of the eastern front, -they have built casemates for the garrison. Near the gate in the wall -are small arsenals, and on the inside of the fort stands the -guard-house, which also contains the prison. The base of this -fortification, as well as the few buildings which stand within, are -bomb-proof. The houses are built of blue limestone which comes from the -state of Vermont. A road covered with palisades surrounds the fort. -I observed here palisades which can be knocked down backwards, and might -be advantageous in case of accident, whilst I took a survey of this -work, accompanied by Captain Reed of the seventieth regiment, who is -commandant, and has already been in garrison here one year with his -company, also by the two engineer officers. Northward of the fort stands -the navy-yard, which is in the same situation as it was at the period of -the treaty of Ghent. There were about twelve gun-boats under cover, and -a frigate of thirty-six guns on the stocks, whose keel and skeleton has -rotted ever since. A naval magazine, and the dwellings of the officers, -overseers, and workmen of the wharf, stand behind the navy-yard. The two -branches of the stream separating the island from the main land are -tolerably small, and the shores are covered with trees. - -Eleven miles above Isle Aux Noix we left Canada and again reached the -territories of the United States. At the point where the river Sorel -leaves Lake Champlain, and where we entered into the latter, the -American government has erected a fort called Rous' Point, consisting of -a defensive tower with casemates, which, as well as I could judge in -passing, appeared to have been located with much judgment and erected at -a small expense. This tower completely commands the communication -between the lake and the Sorel, and as the guns are all under cover, the -garrison has but little to fear from the vertical fire of the enemy's -infantry. The fort stands on a cape. According to the treaty of Ghent, -the forty-fifth degree of north latitude, between the state of Maine and -the St. Lawrence, between the United States and Canada, were fixed as -boundaries; and as to fulfil the terms of the treaty, the commissioners -determined the latitude of several places astronomically, it has been -discovered that this fort lies somewhat north of forty-five degrees, and -consequently is on the Canadian side. - -The greatest breadth of Lake Champlain, which contains several large -islands, is six miles. The shore on our right, belonging to the state of -New York, is low and covered with trees; the other belongs to Vermont, -and is more mountainous. As night approached, we were prevented from -enjoying this beautiful part of the country; I was also with regret -prevented from seeing the battle ground of Plattsburgh, at which town -the vessel made a short stay during the night. Some American -custom-house officers came on board, without, however, inquiring after -our baggage, and this was a new and not disagreeable circumstance. - -The same night we stopped at Burlington in Vermont, and the Grymes' -family left us here to go to Boston. I expected to meet this interesting -family again in New York in fourteen days. Towards morning we passed the -ruins of Fort Crownpoint, which lie on a hill. At this place the lake is -very narrow and resembles a river. The shores are generally covered with -bushes and pine trees, are hilly, and afford a pleasing prospect. At the -village of Shoreham, twelve miles above Crownpoint, on the eastern shore -of Vermont, we left the Phoenix, which went twenty miles further to -Whitehall, the southern point of Lake Champlain, and landed to see Lake -George, which is celebrated for its romantic situation and shores. Sir -Michael and Lady Clare continued with us, and resolved not to part from -us till we arrived at Albany, after which they would travel to Boston. -As a slight recompense for the loss of the Grymes' family, Mr. -Shoemaker, and his wife, from Philadelphia, bore us company hence to -Albany. They were Quakers, but had laid aside the striking costume of -their sect. - -At the inn of Shoreham is a place for loading and unloading vessels, -which transport much plaster of Paris and blue limestone for building, -to Canada. Among the stones on the shore we found some which appeared to -be rich iron ore, said to be common in Vermont. At the inn we met with -an elderly lady of the middle rank, who was smoking tobacco; this custom -is said to be prevalent here among elderly women. We passed over the -lake, scarcely half a mile wide, in a wherry, and landed on the other -shore, not far from the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga. This in an old French -fort, lying on an elevated cape, which commands the navigation of the -lake. From the ruins we saw that it was a square with four small -bastions and three ravelins, the scarp, and the counterscarp being -covered with strong stone-work; the bastion contains casemates as well -as the curtain of the eastern front. Several massive buildings stood in -the fort so that it must have had but little room. About three hundred -paces east of the fort, on the extremity of the cape, stands a small -pentagonal redoubt, which communicated with the fort by means of a -covered way. The cape is connected with the main land of New York by -means of a neck of land, which was cut off by a crownwork, consisting of -earth. The eminence on which this crownwork lies, in some measure -commands the fort, and an entrenched camp seems to have been located -here. Between the fort and crownwork we remarked the remains of two -square redoubts. On the same shore, south of the fort, but separated -from it by an inlet of the lake, lies Mount Defiance, which commands the -fort in a great degree, and from which, in July, 1777, the English, -under General Burgoyne, bombarded the fort, which was too quickly -evacuated by the Americans, under General St. Clair. On the eastern -shore of the lake, opposite Ticonderoga, lies another hill, Mount -Independence, of the same height as the fort on which the Americans had -formed their works at that time, under the protection of which they -passed the lake after the evacuation of the fort. This was afterwards -destroyed by the English. In July, 1758, when the fort still belonged to -the French, the English attacked it, but were repulsed with a loss of -eighteen hundred men. - -From Ticonderoga we went in a stage three miles further to Lake George, -through a very hilly country. The level of this lake is about three -hundred feet higher than that of Lake Champlain; the stream which flows -from the former into the latter lake, forms a succession of small -cascades, and turns several saw-mills. We arrived at the northern point -of Lake George, and entered the steam-boat Mountaineer, which was ready -to depart; it was ninety feet long with a machine of sixteen -horse-power. - -Lake George resembles the Scottish lakes. It is thirty-six miles long, -and never more than five miles broad. The shores are very hilly, the -heights are all covered with trees, and are not, as it seems to me, -above eight hundred feet high. There are several islands in the lake, -generally covered with wood. A single one, called Diamond Island, on -account of the handsome crystals which are found in it, is inhabited. -The inhabitants consist of an Indian family, which lives in a small -house, and maintains itself by selling these crystals. About five -o'clock in the evening, we arrived at the southern point of the lake. -The scenery is very handsome. One of the highest mountains, which rises -perpendicularly out of the lake, is called Rodgers' rock, after an -American Captain Rodgers, who being hunted by the Indians, during the -revolution, fled to the top of this rock, and in extremely cold weather, -being urged by danger, glided on the smooth surface down to the frozen -lake. Towns are not seen; but few single houses stand along the shore. -At the southern extremity, however, lies the village of Caldwell, -founded about twenty years ago, which, besides a very good and large -inn, where we took lodgings, contains several neat houses. In former -times, an English fort, William Henry, stood here, which, to judge from -its few remains, must have been a square redoubt of earth. It was built -in the year 1755, by order of Sir William Johnstone, who commanded the -English army in the then colony of New York, after having completely -routed, on September the 8th, 1755, a French corps which had come from -Ticonderoga to attack him. In this rencontre, Baron Dieskau, a French -general lost his life. In the following year, however, Marquis de -Montcalm arrived with a stronger force and captured the fort. -A capitulation was allowed to the English garrison, but they were -attacked after leaving the fort, by the Indians, in a disgraceful -manner, and the greater part cut to pieces. After the fort was taken, -the Marquis de Montcalm ordered it to be destroyed. Not far from this -place, in a higher station and on a rocky ground, the English erected -afterwards a new fort, called Fort George, which, at the unsuccessful -expedition of General Burgoyne, in 1777, served his army as a depôt and -magazine, till he moved too far forward and was cut off from the fort. -Remains of it are still plainly seen. It was a strongly-built square -redoubt, the entrance being protected by a _fleche_. It lies in an -advantageous situation, commands the whole southern shore of the lake, -with a large part of the vicinity, stands, as was said before, on a -strong ground, and is covered on one side by a morass. On the eastern -side alone, it is commanded by a high mountain, which, however, is at -some distance. If the American government should resolve to restore -Crownpoint and Ticonderoga, the latter particularly would be adapted, -after fortifying the two mountains, Defiance and Independence, for an -arsenal of a superior kind; it might contain large depôts, serve as a -fortified camp, and be successfully defended by a small garrison. Here -fleets might be completed to command Lake Champlain, and an expedition -against Isle Aux Noix and Canada organized. However, a good road would -be necessary, leading from Ticonderoga to the northern point of Lake -George, three miles distant, and here it would be necessary to protect -the place of embarkation by a fort. A new fort on the same spot where -Fort George was erected, would be necessary. There is a good locality -between this fort and Fort William Henry to found a dock-yard. The -communication between Ticonderoga and the United States would be well -and doubly protected by the southern point of Lake Champlain, towards -Whitehall, and by Lake George. If the English should attack the United -States on this side, they would undoubtedly waste much strength, and not -advance a step, unless they had seized Ticonderoga. - -We left Caldwell at eight o'clock the next day, September 11, in two -inconvenient carriages, and passed through a very uninteresting, deep, -sandy road, in a hilly country, covered with thorny trees, on our route -to Saratoga springs, to which the whole fashionable world of the United -States repairs in summer, for the fashionables have here the same mania -which prevails in other countries, to visit the baths in summer, whether -sick or well. The distance is twenty-seven miles. On our passage, we saw -but one interesting object--the Hudson falls, which river we had left at -Albany, and reached again nine miles from Caldwell, coming from the -west. - -These falls are known under the name of Glenn's Falls. A village of the -same name is built in their vicinity, on the rocky shores of the river. -The river is crossed by means of a pendant wooden bridge. The arches -rest on pillars, consisting of large beams, which lie across each other, -as tit-mouse traps are constructed in my native country; the bridge -might therefore be called bird-cage bridge. These cages rest on a -foundation of limestone, cut through by the Hudson in its course. This -river is really a remarkable sight in this sandy country. Above the -bridge it is one hundred and sixty yards broad, and crossed by a dam, -which conducts the water to the saw-mills along the banks. A single -rock, on which, also, a saw-mill stands, divides into two parts, the -principal fall, which is forty feet high. But there are, both above and -below the principal falls, a number of smaller falls, which we could -approach with ease, as the water was very low. These falls are not -indeed to be numbered among the largest, but among the handsomest falls -which I have seen. A constant mist arises from them, and, as the sun -shone very brilliantly, we saw several rainbows at the same time. In the -rock, as at Niagara, we observed some remarkable and deep cavities. They -arise from the flintstones which are scattered throughout the limestone, -and are washed away by the violence of the water. When these flintstones -meet with resistance, or fall into a small cavity, they are constantly -agitated by the falling water, and moving in a circular direction, form -by degrees deep cavities in the soft limestone. At the base of the small -island, which divides the chief fall into two parts, a remarkable cave -appears below the falls, leading to the other side of the rock; this was -also undoubtedly made by the washing of the water. The saw-mills, all of -wood, occupy a bold position over the falls, and appear besides, to be -in such a state of decay, that a fear arises, lest they should soon fall -into the abyss. The Hudson is partly navigable above Glenn's Falls, and -two miles further up, feeds a navigable canal, with thirteen locks, -which runs seven miles north of the Hudson, and then joins Champlain -canal. - -We arrived at Saratoga at two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped at -Congress Hall. The greater part of the company had already departed, so -that but forty persons remained; among these was the governor of the -state of New York, the celebrated De Witt Clinton.[I-10] I was -immediately introduced to his excellency, and very well received by this -great statesman. - - [Footnote I-10: [Since, unfortunately for his country, - deceased.]--TRANS.] - -The water of the springs is cold, of a somewhat salt taste, and stronger -than the mineral water of Eger. It is said to act very beneficially as a -tonic. When this region was yet covered with forests, inhabited -principally by Indians, and by few white people, the Indians were -acquainted with the virtues of this water; only one spring, however, -High Rock Spring, was discovered. They led to it the above-mentioned Sir -William Johnstone, who was much beloved by the Indians, and in a bad -state of health. By drinking this water he regained his health, and thus -this spring became known. It is not above twelve years since a beginning -was made to clear the ground, and build houses; at present, more than a -hundred, principally of wood, form a street. They are generally arranged -to receive strangers. The four largest hotels are Congress Hall, Union -Hall, the Pavilion, and the United States Hotel, the last of brick, the -three former of wood. Congress Hall alone, was yet open, the others had -closed since September 1st, on account of the frost. The hotel can -accommodate two hundred strangers. In the evening the company assembles -in the large halls in the lower story, at this season, alas! by the -fire, and pass the time in music, dancing, or conversation. Games of -chance are strictly forbidden by the laws of the state, and in general, -public opinion in the United States is much against gaming. I was told -that at a watering-place in Pennsylvania, three genteel young men once -arrived from different parts of the United States. They were at first -very well received, but afterwards were found to be gamblers. All -communication with them was immediately broken off in so striking a -manner that they were soon obliged to leave the place. - -The different springs, which do not lie far from each other in a swampy -ground in the same valley, are called Hamilton, Congress, Columbia, Flat -Rock, Munroe, High Rock, President, and Red Spring. The water is -generally drank, but baths are also erected. High Rock Spring flows from -a white conical limestone rock, five feet high, in which there is a -round aperture above, about nine inches in diameter, through which the -water in the spring is seen in a state of constant agitation. So much -fixed air escapes from it, that an animal held over it, as in the -_Grotto del Cane_, near Naples, cannot live above half a minute. Mr. -Shoemaker held his head over the opening, and though he had covered it -with a handkerchief, immediately fainted away; he retained besides, -during several days after this experiment, a bad dry cough. The vicinity -of Saratoga Springs possesses no attraction. Promenades are not yet -constructed. The only pleasure which can be enjoyed must be sought in -company. A large piazza is built before Congress Hall, to the pillars of -which wild vines are attached, which almost reach the roof. I passed the -evening in the lower parlour by the fire, with the governor and Mr. -Schley, from Maryland, in very agreeable and instructive conversation. -The ladies did not entertain us with music, because it was Sunday. - -The governor had the kindness to give me some letters for New York, and -a letter of introduction to the Shakers of New Lebanon. Furnished with -these, we left Saratoga Springs, September 12th, at 9 o'clock, in a -convenient stage to go to Albany, thirty-six miles distant. We passed -through a disagreeable and sandy country. The uniformity was, however, -very pleasingly interrupted by Saratoga lake, which is eight miles long. -At Stillwater village, we reached the Hudson. Not far from this, runs -the new Champlain Canal, which was commenced at the same time with the -Erie Canal, but is not yet completed, and which I mentioned on my -passage from Albany to Schenectady. At Stillwater we visited the two -battle-grounds, Freeman's Farm and Bernis's Heights, which became -celebrated September 19th, and October 7th, 1777. These actions, as is -known, took place during the expedition of Burgoyne. They closed with -taking the whole corps of this general, to which also the Brunswick -troops, under General Von Riedesel belonged, at Saratoga. - -Our guide to both battle-grounds, which are adjacent, was an -octogenarian farmer, called by his neighbours Major Buel, because he had -been the guide of the American army during the campaign. The ground has -since greatly changed; wood has grown again, so that with the exception -of some remains of the English lines, nothing is to be seen. Not far -from the river, on an eminence, are the remains of a very small work, -called the great English redoubt. Here lies General Fraser, of whose -burial Madam Von Riedesel gives a description so attractive, and yet so -terrific. I broke off, near his grave, a small branch of a pine tree to -present it to Baron Von Riedesel, Land-marshal of the Grand Duchy of -Saxe-Weimar. I inquired after the house in which the mother of the -latter had lived, and in which General Fraser died. This house stands no -longer on the original spot, as the canal passed through its site; in -other respects it is said to be arranged now, as it was then. The place -in the bar-room, where General Frazer died, and a small room behind -this, in which Madam Von Riedesel lived with her children, were shown -me. - -At the small town of Waterford we passed along the left shore of the -Hudson on a long wooden bridge, to avoid a bad bridge over the Mohawk. -We proceeded on our route in the night on a very good road, and passed -through Lansingburg and Troy. The latter is very handsomely built, and -many stores are very well lighted up in the evening. Here we returned to -the right shore of the Hudson, and reached Albany at 10 o'clock at -night. - -On the 13th of September I went with Mr. Tromp in a stage-coach to New -Lebanon, twenty-eight miles from Albany to see the settlement of -Shakers. We passed through Greenbush, (where the team-boat put us on the -left side of the Hudson,) Schodack, Union, Stephentown, and Canaan. The -country about New Lebanon is extremely handsome; the tops of the -mountains are covered with trees, and the lower parts well cultivated. -The valley is wide, with very neat houses, and resembles a garden. Fruit -is particularly cultivated. On a slight eminence at the foot of a -mountain, the Shaker village is very beautifully situated, and is about -one mile long. The houses stand in groups at a distance from each other, -in general large, built of wood, and painted yellow; the church alone, -or rather the meeting-house, is wide, with an arched roof of slate. - -The Shakers are a religious sect, originally from England. It was -founded by Ann Lee, the daughter of a Manchester blacksmith, and wife of -the blacksmith Stanley, of the same city. Her chief doctrines are, -community of goods, a perfect continence with regard to the sexes and -adoration of the Deity by dancing. Ann Lee pretended to higher -inspiration, performed miracles, announced the speedy reappearance of -Christ on earth, spoke of the millennium, and of similar glories. She -commenced in England, by making proselytes among the lowest classes, who -followed her when she preached in public, held noisy prayer, or rather, -dancing meetings, and thus disturbed the public peace. This worthy -prophetess was therefore, with her friends, at different times -imprisoned; the impatient and unbelieving public even began once to -stone her. The good soul, whose convulsions were said by the wicked -world to be the effect of ardent spirits, wandered therefore, in 1774, -with her family, and several of her friends, to New York, where she -settled. But her husband was wearied with the sisterly connexion in -which he lived with her, and resolved to divorce his sisterly wife, and -marry another. Whereupon the repudiated wife wandered towards Albany, -settled first at Watervliet, and held meetings. These meetings, however, -appeared to the Americans so suspicious, (it was during the time of the -revolution,) that the good lady was arrested at Albany with several of -her friends, and transported to the neighbourhood of New York, in order -to give her in charge to the English, who then held the city. But she -soon returned again to Watervliet, and her faithful adherents bought -land near Niskayuna, between Albany and Schenectady, and settled there. -A large part of this people, those particularly who had joined the sect -in America, founded the colony of New Lebanon. Ann Lee died in -Niskayuna, in 1784. As this sect conducted itself very quietly, and gave -no public offence, the government allowed them to live in peace. The -colony numbers about six hundred members, who are divided into families, -some of which contain above one hundred individuals of both sexes. Each -lives in a group of houses with an elder at their head. The elders of -all the families form a counsel, which watches for the public good. They -have for divine service a sort of preachers, two of each sex, who hold -forth on Sundays. The greatest cleanliness prevails in the houses, -equalled perhaps only by the hospital of Boston; the brethren live on -one side, and the sisters on the other. They have a common eating-room, -in which again each sex has its own side, but different working places. -Both the brethren and the sisters live, generally, two individuals in -one room, and two also sleep in the same bed. Many of the sisters, -however, notwithstanding their good food, were pale and wan. - -When a family wishes to join the Shakers, the relation of brother and -sister, must immediately take place between husband and wife. The -children are then brought up in Shaker principles. Orphans also find a -home with them; still, however, unfavourable reports are circulated -about the origin of these orphans. Of course, if the principles of these -people should prevail, which, however, may heaven prevent, the world -would soon be depopulated. In countries, however, with too great -population, it might perhaps be of service to receive missionaries of -this sect and promote proselytism. - -Every family possesses a shop, where all things made by the family are -laid out for sale. These articles generally consist of wooden utensils, -sieves, brushes, harness, table-linen, somewhat coarse silver writing -pens, very good rose water, &c. Besides, they sell books, exposing the -doctrines of their sect, and containing the life of their founder, Ann -Lee, whom they call mother Ann. They pay also much attention to the -breeding of cattle, make good butter, and particularly good cheese, -great quantities of which they sell. Their hogs are remarkably handsome, -and cleanliness is also extended to them. It is a rare pleasure to walk -about in a Shaker pig-sty! they have a large kitchen garden behind the -church, where they raise vegetables, principally for the sake of seed, -which is said to be here of a remarkably good kind. Medicinal herbs, -roots, and berries, which they cultivate very carefully in a separate -garden, and which, as I heard in Albany, are of a remarkably good -quality, form a principal part of their commerce. - -The governor's letter every where procured me a good reception, as they -generally lead strangers about the settlement with reluctance. The few -men with whom I spoke, and who accompanied me, were elderly people, and -had long ago become Shakers with their parents. An old man told me, that -he had been one of the first adherents of mother Ann at her arrival in -America. They were very polite to me, and appear to be somewhat monkish. -They showed me also their church, which they do not generally do, -Sundays excepted, as every body can attend their worship. My travelling -plan did not allow me to pass a Sunday with them. The hall, which serves -as their church, is about eighty feet long, and above fifty broad. On -one side stand benches in form of an amphitheatre, for spectators and -old members, to whom the dancing has become difficult. The floor -consists of handsome cedar wood, which is well polished; the boards are -attached to each other without nails. Service commences, as I was told, -with a speech, which the congregation hear in a standing position, the -sexes being again divided. Occasionally the spirit comes upon one or the -other; they are so moved by the speech, that they begin to shake, and to -make strange contortions. Then begin the prayers, which are sung, and -during which, they dance. Every member has a spot about four feet square -for jumping, and I was assured this service was done with such a zeal, -that the vaulters sometimes fainted away. - -We delayed too long with the Shakers to follow our plan of previously -visiting Lebanon springs, and reach Albany the same day. We consequently -gave up this design and returned to Albany; we were overtaken by the -night, and a storm. It was so dark, that the driver could scarcely find -the way; he therefore took a lantern against my advice. This was -extinguished, and we were in a still worse situation. Two miles from -Greenbush the driver left the road, went to the right towards a slope, -and almost threw the stage entirely over; it fell on the right side, and -my head and arm were injured, though but slightly. On my right side I -was much more hurt, and one of my ribs was actually broken, as it was -afterwards discovered. Mr. Tromp had his head and one of his hands -injured. As we had no baggage, and were but two miles from Greenbush, we -resolved to leave the stage where it was, and walked to Greenbush. At -about eleven o'clock we reached the river. Not a soul was in the street; -the lights were all extinguished, and the ferry boats were on the other -side of the river. Our shouting was of no avail; the pain in my side -also prevented me from calling. In about half an hour, however, the -stage arrived, which the driver had raised with the help of some -farmers; and he made such a terrible noise, that at last, after waiting -an hour, the ferry boats came to take us to Albany. In riding through -the city the jolting of the stage gave me much pain. On leaving the -stage at twelve o'clock I could scarcely speak or walk on account of my -side, which I had also injured two years previously, on my passage from -Ostend to London, and since that time it had constantly retained a -painful sensation. - -The next morning I awoke with such dreadful pain in my right side, that -I could scarcely move in bed. The obliging Sir Michael Clare gave me -every assistance. He opened a vein in my arm, took sixteen ounces of -blood, gave me a purgative, and ordered embrocations to the side, by -which treatment the pain had so much abated in the afternoon, that I -could move with more ease. I was, however, confined the whole day to my -bed. The Van Rensselaer family showed me much attention. On the second -day I could indeed leave the bed, but still not continue my journey. On -the third day, September 16th, Sir Michael and Lady Clare left Albany -for Boston, whence they were going to New York. My pains had not much -abated, but I nevertheless resolved to proceed to New York, as I had -read in the papers that the Pallas had arrived there, and as I wished to -receive the attendance of Dr. Schilett. I was indeed obliged to -relinquish my design of seeing Catskill Mountains, but thought of -stopping at West Point to visit the military school. - -At ten o'clock we embarked on board the steam-boat Richmond. The banks -of the Hudson are very handsome, and here and there well cultivated. -From Albany to New York it is one hundred and forty-four miles, and to -West Point ninety-six. Hudson, a place twenty-seven and a half miles -from Albany, which we reached at noon, seems to be very handsome and -lively. We remarked in the harbour several sloops, and on shore some -brick stores, five stories high. On the opposite side of the river lies -Athens, between which and Hudson there seems to be much communication -kept up by a team-boat. A very low island in the middle of the stream -between the two places rendered this communication somewhat difficult at -first, as vessels were obliged to make a great circuit. To avoid this -inconvenience, a canal was cut through the island, through which the -team-boat now passes with ease and rapidity. This place affords a very -fine view of the lofty Catskill Mountains. - -About eleven o'clock at night we arrived at West Point, on the right -side of the Hudson, and landed at a wharf furnished with a sentry-box. -An artillerist, who stood sentinel, examined us. I afterwards discovered -that this rule was made on account of the visits which the cadets -receive. We were obliged to ascend a somewhat steep road in order to -reach the house, which is prepared for the reception of strangers. -A small but very clean room was prepared for us. The building belongs to -the government, and is designed for the mess-room of the officers and -cadets. The purveyor for this table is bound by contract with government -to keep several chambers with beds in order, for the reception of the -relations of the cadets, and thus a kind of inn arose. - -The morning after our arrival we paid an early visit to -lieutenant-colonel Thayer, superintendent of the military school, and -were received in a very friendly manner. He has presided over this -school eight years. It was founded in 1802, during the presidency of -Jefferson. Colonel Thayer has entirely remodelled this institution. -During his travels in Europe he visited the French military schools, and -has endeavoured to make this resemble the polytechnic school. But he -will find it difficult to equal this once celebrated school, as with the -best will in the world he cannot find in this country such excellent -professors as were assembled in that institution. The cadets, whose -number may amount to two hundred and fifty, but at the last examination -consisted of two hundred and twenty-one, are divided into four classes -for the purposes of instruction. They are received between the ages of -fourteen and twenty, undergo an examination before they enter, and must -then pass a probationary term of half a year, during which time the -mathematics are chiefly studied. After six months the young men are -examined on the instruction which they have received, and those only who -pass this ordeal continue in the school; the others are dismissed. - -Instruction is communicated gratuitously to the cadets, each of whom -receives monthly eight dollars from government as wages. A public -examination of the cadets takes place every year at the end of June, -by a commission, appointed by the secretary of war. This commission -consists of staff-officers from the army and navy, members of congress, -governors of states, learned men, and other distinguished citizens. -After this examination, the best among those who have finished their -course are appointed as officers in the army; the very best may choose -the corps in which they wish to serve. The others receive stations, -according to their capacity, in the following order: engineers, -artillerists, infantry, marines. Should even these corps have the -necessary number of officers, these young men as supernumeraries, -receive full pay. At the examinations also, the cadets advance from one -class to another. The names of the five best in each class are made -known in the newspapers, and also printed in the army list, which -appears every year. This is certainly an encouraging arrangement, and -worthy of imitation. - -The discipline of the cadets is very rigid; they leave the school only -as officers, on which account their noviciate in the corps of cadets -serves as a practical school of passive obedience. The punishments -consist of arrest, which, however, does not interrupt the course of -instruction; but when a case occurs that a cadet is to be punished a -second time for the same fault, he is dismissed. The same takes place -when after two public examinations he has not learned enough to advance -into a higher class. - -The day is thus divided in this school:-- - -_From day-break till sunrise._ --Reveillé at day-break--roll-call -after reveillé--cleaning of rooms, arms and dress--half an hour after -roll-call, inspection of the rooms. - -_From sunrise till seven o'clock._ --First class, military engineering. ---Second, natural and experimental philosophy. --Third and fourth, -mathematics. - -_From seven till eight o'clock._ --Breakfast at seven o'clock. --Parade -at half past seven.--Class parade at eight o'clock. - -_From eight till eleven o'clock._ --First class, recitations and -engineer and military drawing.--Second, natural and experimental -philosophy.--Third and fourth, mathematical recitations. - -_From eleven till twelve o'clock._ --First class, lectures on engineer -and military sciences. --Second, lectures on natural and experimental -philosophy. --Third and fourth, mathematical studies. - -_From twelve till one o'clock._ --First class, Monday, Wednesday, and -Friday, lectures on chemistry applied to mechanics and the arts, or -mineralogy and geology. --Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, studies on -the same subjects. --Second, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, lectures -on chemistry. --Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, studies on the same -subject. --Third, French recitations.--Fourth, French studies and -recitations. - -_From one till two o'clock._ --Dinner very plain and frugal at one -o'clock--recreation after dinner till two o'clock. - -_From two till four o'clock._ --First class, studies and recitations -in geography, history, belles lettres and national laws. --Second, -landscape and topographical drawing. --Third, Monday, Wednesday, and -Friday, drawing of the human figure--Tuesday and Thursday, studies of -the French language. --Fourth, French studies and recitations. - -_From four o'clock till sunset._ --Military exercises--inspection of the -dress and roll-call at sunset. - -_From sunset till half an hour later._ --Supper immediately after -parade--signal to go to the rooms immediately after the supper. - -_Half an hour after sunset till half past nine._ --First class, studies -on engineer and military sciences. --Second, studies on natural and -experimental philosophy. --Third and fourth, mathematical studies. - -_From half past nine till ten o'clock._ --Retreat beat at half past -nine--roll-call immediately after--signal to extinguish the lights and -inspection of the rooms at ten o'clock. - - - TABLE - - _Of the Sciences taught and the Books used at West Point._ - - ============================================================== - First Class. Course of fourth year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Engineering._ - INSTRUCTORS. - Capt. Douglass. - Lieut. Mordecai. - Artillery tactics. - Field and permanent fortifications. - Civil and military architecture and constructions. - Treatise on the Sciences of War and Fortification, - by Guy de Vernon. - Traité des Machines, par Hachette. - Programme d'un Cours de Construction, par Sganzin. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _History and belles-lettres._ - Rev. Mr. M'Ilvaine, Chaplain. - Geography. - History. - Moral philosophy. - Laws of nations. - Morse's Geography. - Tytler's Elements of General History. - Paley's Principles of Moral and Political Philosophy. - Vattel's Law of Nations. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Chemistry and Mineralogy._ - Dr. Torrey. - Lieut. Prescott. - Application of chemistry to the arts. - Cleveland's Treatise on Mineralogy and Chemistry. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Tactics._ - Major Worth. - Capt. Hitchcock. - Lieut. C. Smith. - Lieut. Kinley, teacher of the Artillery. - Platoon--battalion--school and line-evolutions. - Exercises and manoeuvres of artillery - Rules and Regulations for the Field-exercise and Manoeuvres - of Infantry. - Lallemand's Treatise on Artillery. - ============================================================== - - ============================================================== - 2nd Class. Course of 3rd year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Natural and Experimental Philosophy._ - Prof. Mansfield. - Lieut. S. Smith. - Lieut. Parrot. - Statistic, dynamic, hydrostatic, hydrodynamic, pneumatic. - Magnetism, electricity, optics, astronomy. - Gregory's Treatise of Mechanics. - Newton's Principia. - Enfield's Institutes of Natural Philosophy. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Chemistry._ - Chemical philosophy. - Henry's Chemistry. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Drawing._ - Capt. Douglass. - DRAWING MASTER. - Gimbrede. - Landscape. - Topographical drawing. - ============================================================== - - ============================================================== - 3rd Class. Course of 2nd year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Mathematics._ - Prof. Davies. - Lieut. Ross. - Lieut. Webster. - Lieut. Greene. - Lieut. Mahan. - Differential and integral calculus. - Analytic geometry. - Perspective shades. - Descriptive geometry and conic sections. - Traité du Calcul Différential et Intégral, par Lacroix. - Essai de Géométrie Analytique Appliquée aux Courbes et aux - Surfaces du second ordre, par Biot. - Crozet's Treatise on Perspective, Shades and Shadows. - Crozet's Treatise on Descriptive Geometry and Conic Sections. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _French Language._ - TEACHERS. - Berard and Ducommun. - Translation from French into English. - Histoire de Gil Blas, les 3 derniers tomes. - Histoire de Charles XII. par Voltaire. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Drawing._ - DRAWING MASTER. - Gimbrede. - Human figure. - ============================================================== - - ============================================================== - 4th Class. - Course of 1st year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Mathematics._ - Surveying and measuring. - Trigonometry. - Geometry. - Algebra. - Treatise on Plane and Spherical Trigonometry, and on the - Application of Algebra to Geometry, translated from - the French of Lacroix and Bezout, by Professor Farrar. - Legendre's Geometry. - Complement des Elémens d'Algébra, par Lacroix. - Lacroix's Elements of Algebra. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _French Language._ - Translation from French into English. - Histoire de Gil Blas, tome I. - Berard's Lecteur Français. - Berard's French Grammar. - ============================================================== - -I was surprised to learn that the young men clean their rooms and -clothes themselves, as well as make their own beds: only the cleaning of -shoes and boots, and carrying of wood may be done by servants. But -Colonel Thayer thinks, that if too many servants were in the school, the -cadets would have too great an opportunity of remaining in connexion -with the world, without the knowledge of the officers. The cadets are -divided in four companies, and live in two large massive buildings, -three stories high. In the older of the two buildings, two occupy one -room; in the other, three are placed in one room. They sleep on -mattresses, which are spread out on the floor in the evening, and have -always two chambers, one for sleeping and the other for study.--This -opens upon a long corridor. The cadets keep their arms also in their -rooms. Their uniform consists of a grey jacket, with three rows of -yellow buttons, bound with black cords; in winter, grey, in summer, -white pantaloons; white leather equipments, as worn by the army, and, -for fatigue service, leather caps. The officers wear the uniform of the -artillery corps, to which they belong. Notwithstanding the -extraordinarily fine situation of the school, the cadets have not a -healthy appearance, perhaps because they have too little recreation. - -After having seen the rich private library of Colonel Thayer, he took us -to the school. We met with a class which was engaged in descriptive -geometry. Several cadets, who stood at the board, demonstrated some -problems of this science very correctly, and answered with great ease -and accuracy some questions and objections, which Professor Davies made -to them. We then attended a physical lecture of Lieutenant Prescott, -which, however, appeared to be elementary; he explained the principles -of the doctrine of heat, and then related the theory and history of the -thermometer. - -The institution possesses a fine library and a collection of maps, which -receives constant additions. We found several of the newest German maps. -Colonel Thayer is a man who labours under a disease with which they say -I am also afflicted, namely, the bibliomania; on that account I -continued a long time in this library. I remarked here, also, -a full-length portrait of the former president, Jefferson, by Sully, of -Philadelphia, and another of the engineer, General Williams, founder of -the school. - -The institution possesses four principal buildings. The two largest -serve as barracks for the cadets, a third contains the mess-room and -inn, and the fourth the church, chemical laboratory, library, and the -hall for drawing, in which are some of the best drawings of the cadets. -As a model of topographical drawing, they had taken the Montjoui of -Gironna, designed according to the Atlas of Marshal G. St. Cyr. They -have adopted the French manner of drawing plans; I saw, however, in the -library, Lehmann's work translated into English. A very fine marble bust -of the Emperor Napoleon stands in the drawing-hall. - -A large level space, consisting of several acres, lies in front of the -buildings, forming a peninsula and commanding the navigation of the -Hudson, above which it is elevated one hundred and eighty-eight feet. -Towards the river it is surrounded with steep rocks, so that it would be -difficult to ascend, unless by the usual way. At its junction with the -main land, it is commanded by a mountain, whose summit is five hundred -and ninety-six feet above the level of the river. This position called -to my mind the plain below Lilienstein, in Saxony, opposite to -Koenigstein. On the summit of this mountain lie the ruins of Fort Putnam, -so that the plain on which the buildings of the academy stand, is -entirely insulated, and may be very well defended as well in the -direction of the river as of the main land. During the revolution this -fort was erected, like Fort Clinton, and was impregnable. To seize it, -the English had recourse to bribery, and General Arnold, who commanded -West Point, was on the point of delivering this position to them. This -disgraceful treachery was fortunately prevented by the seizure of Major -André. The tragical end of the major, and the flight of Arnold on board -the English corvette Vulture, which lay at Verplank's Point ready to -receive him, are well known. - -The above-mentioned Fort Clinton stood on the eastern point of the -level, and was considered as a redoubt. It consisted of a crown-work of -three bastions, and the redoubt which the two wings of the crown-work -adjoined. The redoubt stands on the extreme point of the rock, and the -remains of the battery can still be seen in it, which completely -commanded the river, both above and below West Point. The fort is now in -a state of dilapidation, and the foundations of the buildings alone, are -to be seen. During the revolution, chains were extended here across the -river. On the left side, in an oblique direction towards West Point, -is another rock, not so high, and similar to a peninsula, washed by the -Hudson on three sides and separated from the main land by a morass. Two -redoubts stood on this rock, in order to have complete control over the -river. - -Besides the above-mentioned buildings, several houses and gardens are -situated on the plain of West Point, occupied by the officers and -professors. Large wooden barracks also stand here, inhabited by a -company of artillerists, and some soldiers condemned to confinement in -irons, who are employed to blast the rocks. These culprits have a long -chain attached to one foot, and the other end of the chain is fastened -to a twenty-four pound ball, which they must either drag or carry. Three -iron six pounders stand in front of the barracks. The Americans use iron -cannon, like the Swedes, and are very well satisfied with them. At -another place on the same plain, we saw five six pounders, with which -the cadets exercise. Three are French pieces, presented to the Americans -by Louis XVI. decorated with the French arms; and the motto, ultima -ratio regum. The two other pieces are English, were taken during the -revolution, and as an inscription says, were given by congress to -General Greene as a reward for his conduct in the south of the United -States during the war. His heirs have not yet reclaimed them, and they -consequently remain here. A pyramid of white marble not far from these -pieces was, according to the inscription, erected by General Brown, to -the memory of Lieutenant-Colonel Wood, a pupil of this school, who fell -in 1814, at a sally of Fort Erie. - -In the evening we saw the cadets exercise; they form a small battalion -of four divisions, and are commanded by their officers, and the eldest -cadets of the first class, who wear officer's scarfs, and swords. The -young men perform their exercises uncommonly well, and I was gratified -at the good order which prevailed. A band of music, paid by the -government, belongs exclusively to them, and is said to afford the best -military music in the United States. Every one has his taste, but I must -confess that even the celebrated music of the English guards, and the -American music, are far behind that of the French, Netherlanders, and -Germans. - -In company with Colonel Thayer, we crossed the Hudson to visit an iron -foundry which belongs to a society, whose director is Mr. Campbell, -a friend of Colonel Thayer. Two high furnaces are in constant -employment, as the foundry furnishes all the iron arms which government -requires. One piece had just been cast, and we saw several other pieces -cast from a new high furnace. Next to the foundry is a building for -boring the guns, in which ten pieces may be bored at once; for this -purpose they lie in a horizontal position, the machinery being turned by -a large wheel. As, however, in hot and very dry summers, or in very cold -winters, the water now and then fails, they contemplate substituting a -steam-engine in place of water-power. - -Notwithstanding my injured side, I ascended the rocky mountain on which -the ruins of Fort Putnam lie. My way led through a handsome forest of -oak, beech, chesnut, and walnut trees. The fort occupied the summit of -the mountain, was erected in an indented form, of strong granite, and is -altogether inaccessible on the side next the enemy. It had but a single -entrance, with very strong casemates, and two small powder-magazines. It -was built during the revolution on private property; the owner of the -ground claimed it, and government were obliged to restore it to him, -after which he destroyed the fort. The government afterwards acquired -the ground on which West Point stands, as well as the adjoining heights. -It appeared to me, if not necessary, still to be useful to build Fort -Putnam again, in order to complete the important position of West Point, -which can serve in time of war as a fortified camp, or place of refuge -for the people, &c. as impregnable as it was before. But to my -astonishment, I learned that this would probably not take place, that on -the contrary, with regard to the defence of the country, reliance was -placed on the fortified entrance of New York, and that in general in the -interior of the country no fortifications would probably be made. They -appear to think that the impregnability of the country particularly -consists in having no powerful neighbours; that England could not send -over a strong army, and that even if this should happen, England would -be obliged to scatter her strength too much, so that single corps could -be subdued with ease. This view appears to me doubtful; I wish from my -heart that these excellent people may never find by experience, that -they have deceived themselves. But security, when too great, is always -dangerous. A very fine view is enjoyed from Fort Putnam of the plain of -West Point, and of the Hudson, which here calls to mind the high banks -of the Rhine. The view to the north is particularly handsome, in which -direction Newburgh, lying on the river, is seen in the back ground. We -saw nothing of the Catskill mountains. - -We went with Colonel Thayer and the cadets to church. The chaplain of -the academy, Dr. M'Ilvaine, an Episcopalian clergyman, performed divine -service. The sermon was very good and sensible, and very well adapted to -the young men. He proposed several objections which are made against the -superiority of the Christian religion, and refuted them all, by deriving -his arguments from the new testament and human reason. I was much -pleased with the deportment of the cadets in the church, a deportment -which is not always observed in young people in other countries at such -times. - -The topographical drawings which the cadets make, and according to which -they are instructed in fortification, were shown to me by the excellent -Captain Douglass, teacher of engineering. The so called modern system, -or the Carnmontaigne system, improved by the French engineers, forms the -basis of the instruction. Captain Douglass, who also instructs them in -the formation of roads and bridges, makes use of Wiebeking. Many of the -cadets who do not intend to remain in the military service as officers, -being bound to remain but one year in service, after leaving the -academy, serve each in his own state, as civil engineers, and perform -very essential services. All officers of the army and navy are now -supplied by cadets from the academy; for there are no cadets in the -regiments, and in time of peace no subaltern officers are promoted. - -I was very sorry that we were obliged on the third day after our arrival -to leave this agreeable place, which had so extremely pleased me; but I -was obliged to go to New York at last! Our West Point friends -accompanied us to the steam-boat, and here we took an affectionate -farewell. A Captain Randolph, of Virginia, with whom I had become -acquainted at West Point, with his wife, went also to New York, so that -I was agreeably entertained on board; the boat was so filled with -people, we scarcely found room at the dinner-table. The shores continue -to be handsome. We passed several handsome places and country-seats, -which denoted that we were on the road to a large and flourishing city. -At a turn of the river the shores approximate, and here stands a -handsome country-seat with a garden, called Verplank's Point; opposite -is a fort, Stony Point, the possession of which was disputed during the -revolution by several bloody fights. The situation of Singsing, where -there is a house of correction, is very handsome. We saw the offenders -engaged in blasting rocks. The stream now becomes broad, and forms two -successive bays, the former Haverstraw Bay, and the other Tappan Sea. On -the right shore of the latter is the town of Tappan, where, condemned by -the court-marshal as a spy, Major André was hung and buried. The English -government ordered him to be dug up some years ago, and his remains to -be transported to England, if I am not mistaken, to be laid in -Westminster Abbey, whilst the remains of General Fraser, who fell like a -hero in open battle, at the head of the royal troops, still lies without -the slightest memorial in the old redoubt of Stillwater! The tree which -grew on André's grave was also taken to England, and as I was assured, -transplanted to the Royal Garden, behind Carlton Palace!! - -Below Tappan Sea, the shores again approximate, and the right side -becomes very steep, resembling the rocks near Pirna, on the Elbe, and -are called the palisades. After sundown we came into the vicinity of New -York, the largest city in the United States, which attracts nearly the -whole commerce of the country, and now already numbers one hundred and -seventy thousand inhabitants. We landed about eight o'clock in the -evening, and on account of the incredible number of strangers could not -obtain lodgings at five different taverns. At last we were very glad, -after much fatigue from running about, to find a miserable bed-chamber -in a common and ordinary tavern, the Theatre Hotel, handsomely situated -near the park and theatre. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - _Stay at New York._ - - -On the ensuing morning, we removed for the present to a French -boarding-house, No. 76, Broad street; and I took a first walk through -the city, in order to acquire some general knowledge of it. The city is -partly built in a regular style; the streets are badly paved, but the -side-walks are good, and there are not so many hogs running at large as -in Albany. I was particularly pleased with Broadway, the principal -street. This is three miles long, very wide, has elegant stores, and -very pleasant side-walks. The Park is likewise very handsome, as well as -the City Hall, which is situated in its centre, and is called one of the -handsomest buildings in the United States. However, I was not -exceedingly pleased with it, finding neither there, nor in the churches -of this city, a remarkably fine style of building. There is a great -number of churches, and most of them have church-yards attached; but for -some years past they have interred their dead in cemetries, which are -situated out of town. At a church near the Park, I observed a monument -in memory of General Montgomery, who died in attacking the city of -Quebec; this monument is not very tasteful.[I-11] - - [Footnote I-11: [It was designed and executed in _Paris_.] - --TRANS.] - -Back of the City Hall is a large building, called American Museum. It -contains a number of curiosities from the animal and mineral kingdoms, -put up in very good order in two large halls. A considerable collection -of American birds occupies nearly the entire walls of one hall; there -are numbers of quadrupeds, though less perfect; an interesting -collection of fishes very well preserved, and a fine series of turtles, -from a gigantic species,[I-12] seven feet six inches long, down to the -smallest; there was likewise a considerable series of crustaceous -animals; a small collection of minerals, and these without arrangement. -Besides, there were various Indian weapons, dresses, and other -curiosities; ancient and modern arms of different nations, &c. a helmet -of the first regiment of the Duke of Naussau, found on the field of -Waterloo; several Italian antiquities, the most of them small lamps and -other trifles. There is a large and exceedingly beautiful specimen of -rock crystal, weighing two hundred and twelve pounds, found in a Mexican -silver mine. An Indian mummy is likewise very interesting; this was -found in the year 1814, near Glasgow, state of Kentucky, nine feet under -ground, in a nitre cavern, two thousand yards distant from the entrance; -it is in a sitting posture, and was enveloped with deer-skins and Indian -cloth. In addition to various miscellaneous articles, there was a number -of miserable wax figures and paintings. - - [Footnote I-12: [_Improved_ by having a number of _Shark's teeth_ - placed in its mouth and throat.]--TRANS.] - -The battery, to which I walked, is at the southern extremity of the city -and island of New York; there was formerly a Dutch fort here, but it has -been pulled down, and the place altered into a public garden, which -gives a fine perspective of the entrance of the bay, and of Long Island. -West of the battery, in the Hudson river, is a fort, called Castle -Clinton, communicating with the battery by a wooden bridge, ninety paces -long. This fort forms a semicircle; on the diameter are the former -barracks, and behind the walls, which form the semicircle, a battery of -twenty-four guns, under casemates. North of this fort, on the same -shore, in front of the city, are two other forts of the same -description, called North Battery and Fort Gansevoort; being of no use -they are abandoned. Castle Clinton is now a public pleasure house. In -the barrack is a coffee-house; boxes for parties are arranged within the -battery, and on the platform are amphitheatrical seats, because the yard -of the fort is used for fire-works, and other exhibitions. From the -battery I walked to Brooklyn ferry, and was delighted with the large -number of vessels, and the great life and bustle. Brooklyn is situated -on Long Island, opposite to New York. The straight, called East river, -at Brooklyn, requires about seven minutes and a half to cross it; there -are two steam-boats and two team-boats continually crossing. Brooklyn -appears to be a flourishing little town, judging by the quantity of -stores which are established there. I passed to the left, and after -having walked upwards of a mile, spent some hours at the navy-yard, and -returned to the city exceedingly fatigued, on account of the great -distance. - -I went on board of the Pallas with Mr. Hone, president of the Canal Bank -of this city, a rich and respectable man, and with Mr. Derviter, -a merchant of this city, and a native of Grammont, in Flanders. The -Pallas rode at anchor in the Hudson, between New York and Jersey City, -a little village in the state of New Jersey, opposite New York, on the -right side of the river. Soon after our arrival, boats likewise arrived -with some ladies, who had wished to see the Pallas. As the cabin was but -small and narrow, the ladies were served, by Captain Ryk, with an -elegant luncheon on deck, under an awning; they were some of the most -amiable and fashionable ladies of the city, and remained on board till -three o'clock, and then went on shore during a pretty heavy storm. - -On returning home at night, I observed that the streets were not well -lighted. I was afterwards informed, that the corporation of the city was -just engaged in a quarrel with the gas-company relative to the lamps; -this quarrel protracted the inconvenience, though it was somewhat -lessened by the numerous stores, which are kept open till a late hour, -and are very splendidly lighted with gas. The gas-lights burn in -handsome figures; at a music store, I saw one in form of a harp. - -An eminent physician of this city, Dr. David Hosack, who, since his -second marriage, is said to have an annual income of twenty thousand -dollars, receives every Saturday night, during the winter season, the -professional gentlemen of the city, and distinguished foreigners. His -library, and collection of engravings, is then opened for the use of the -visitors, and a discourse is sometimes delivered. This learned and -obliging gentleman, offered himself to me as a guide through the city; -I accepted his politeness, and visited several interesting institutions -in his company. - -The City Hospital was built in the year 1770, by voluntary -contributions, and is supported by the interest of its capital, and by -the state government. The building is of blue stone, and stands on high -ground, in a very healthy situation. An avenue of old and high elm trees -leads to it. In the first story is a large room, where the board meet; -this contains the library, which is particularly rich in botanical -works. In the basement is the kitchen, and several wards for syphilitic -patients. They intended to establish a new hospital for these patients, -like the lunatic asylum, formerly in one of the wings of this hospital, -which is now established out of town. There may be accommodated in this -hospital altogether four hundred patients of both sexes. They are -attended to by nurses in large wards, each of them containing about -sixteen beds. The bedsteads are of wood; upon inquiring why they were -not of iron, they replied, they were afraid to use them, on account of -the heavy thunder-storms which frequently occur. Six physicians and four -surgeons are attached to the hospital, and alternately attend. One -physician and one surgeon live free of expense in the hospital, and one -of them must always be present for extraordinary cases. The apothecary's -shop attached to the hospital is kept very neatly; however, it appeared -to me to be inferior to those in the hospitals of Boston and Montreal. - -For the purpose of visiting the newly-erected lunatic asylum, we called -upon Thomas Eddy,[I-13] an aged and venerable Quaker, who is at the head -of the hospitals, charitable institutions, &c. I was introduced to him -at Dr. Hosack's. We found Mr. Eddy at home, with his two daughters, his -son, and partner, who is likewise a Quaker. The family was dressed in -the plainest style, and this simplicity joined to the greatest -cleanliness, prevailed through the whole house. Mr. Eddy is in -possession of a fine library, which he showed us; it contained several -splendid works on natural science; among others, Wilson's American -Ornithology, with the splendid supplementary volume published by Charles -Lucian Buonaparte, son of Lucian Buonaparte. Mr. Eddy then drove with us -to the country-seat of Dr. Hosack, on the East River, opposite the -navy-yard. Dr. Hosack, who was formerly married to a sister of Mr. Eddy, -accompanied us to the Lunatic Asylum. This is five miles from the city, -on a hill, in a very healthy situation, not far from the Hudson River. -The road lies between country-seats and handsome gardens, and it is one -of the most pleasant places I have seen in America. - - [Footnote I-13: [This ornament of human nature, died in the year - 1827.]--TRANS.] - -The asylum is built of sand-stone, is three stories high, and surrounded -by a garden; it was built mostly by subscription, but is likewise -supported by the state government. Mr. Eddy is one of its greatest -benefactors and patrons. There were one hundred and thirty-three -maniacs, by which number the building was almost filled; they were about -to enlarge it by two other wings. Besides the meeting rooms for the -committee in the first story, there are the apothecary's shop, and the -wards for the poor patients, who have a large corridor and sitting room. -One wing of the building is inhabited by the male, and the other by the -female patients. There are subterraneous passages from the corridors to -the large yard, which is surrounded by walls, and serve the patients for -walking, exercise, and play. In the middle of each yard is a shelter -supplied with benches, for bad weather. In the upper stories are the -rooms for the inspectors, and several other apartments where patients -may live separately. In the whole establishment great cleanliness is -observed; but still the institution appeared to me less perfect than the -asylum of Boston, or that of Glasgow in Scotland. The garden is kept in -very good order; there is likewise a hot-house, which is supplied mostly -from Dr. Hosack's collection. On the roof of the house is a platform, -from which we had a very pleasant and extensive view. - -A Philosophical Society hold their meetings in the same building -containing the American Museum. In one of the rooms is a collection of -minerals, not yet very extensive, but exhibiting many fine minerals from -the northern frontiers of the United States. Another saloon contains a -collection of paintings, which do not appear to be very valuable. The -best picture was a portrait of the celebrated American painter, Benjamin -West, who died in London; this picture is from the masterly pencil of -Sir Thomas Lawrence. There are two paintings by Teniers, and two others -by Salvator Rosa. I was particularly pleased with one of the latter; an -old soldier praying in a wild landscape before a simple cross! Two other -paintings are said to be by Rubens: among these I observed a portrait of -Rubens, of which the original is in the collection of Mr. Schamp, at -Ghent. There are likewise good plaster-casts of the best Roman antiques, -of a Venus of Milo, and the three Graces of Canova, and likewise two -gladiators of full size by the same artist. - -The house of Commodore Chauncey[I-14] is situated on a hill in the -navy-yard, which affords a fine view of the wharf and Long Island. The -commodore took a walk with me to the wharf. As I left his house, I was -escorted by a guard of honour of thirty marines, commanded by a captain; -in the meantime the man-of-war Franklin saluted me with twenty-one guns. -This mark of respect was quite unexpected in the United States, and of -course I was the more surprised and flattered. - - [Footnote I-14: Commodore of the navy-yard.] - -In the navy-yard two frigates and two corvettes, not yet named, were -building; one frigate was finished, but was still under cover. Both -frigates are called forty-fours, but carry each sixty-four guns. These -are intended to be thirty-two pounders, which is now the common calibre -of the navy of the United States. The vessels are built of live oak, -from North Carolina; the timbers are salted in order to prevent the -dry-rot. The three ships of the line, Franklin, Washington, and Ohio, -were in ordinary; they are called seventy-fours, but the two first are -each calculated for eighty-six and the latter for one hundred and six -guns. I saw likewise the renowned steam-frigate Fulton the First, of -which many fables have been fabricated in Europe. The schooner Shark, -of eight guns, was perfectly fitted out, and ready to sail in a few days -for the coast of Africa, in order to prevent the slave-trade. - -At a second visit, we first went on board the steam-frigate, Fulton the -First; this vessel is entirely disarmed, and serves as a receiving ship. -She is a floating battery, and was to carry thirty thirty-two pounders. -Her sides are six feet thick, made of oak timbers, which are fixed upon -and crossing each other, so that the vessel may be compared to a -floating block-house. Her machinery resembles that of a team-boat: she -has two parallel keels, between these an engine of one hundred and -twenty-horse power is fixed, and one large wheel is moved by it. The -vessel is very spacious: in several places reverberatory furnaces may be -added, in order to heat balls red-hot. Before this frigate was -dismantled, she carried two small masts with triangular sails, but the -commodore has substituted large masts with the usual sails, for the -instruction of the sailors. The machinery had been taken out for some -months, and placed in an arsenal on the wharf: the place it had occupied -was covered with boards, to make a common deck for the sailors. Since -that time an upper deck has been built, upon which are comfortable -state-rooms for the officers. This frigate has been spoken of as a real -miracle; that she presented towards the enemy a forest of swords and -lances, and threw a stream of boiling water, &c. all of these are -stories. Her construction during the latter part of the war with England -was merely an experiment, though it caused the English a great deal of -anxiety. All competent judges with whom I conversed concerning this -vessel, objected to her and were of opinion that this large body could -only be used to defend straits. She never was at sea, and some feared -that she would be unfit for it. Moreover, as the navy-board at -Washington having objections to the further application of steam to -ships of war, it is probable that they will discontinue the building of -more steam-frigates, although the machinery of a second is already -finished and placed in the magazine. - -We were likewise on board of the two ships of the line, Ohio and -Franklin. The Ohio is of a new construction, and has not yet been in -service; the Franklin and Washington, however, have already made several -voyages. The sides of the Ohio are thicker than those of the other -ships, and her decks higher: all these men of war have not the modern -round, but broad sterns, in each of which is a battery of twelve guns. -Only one of the frigates, still standing on the stocks, has an -elliptical stern, which unites the defensive power of the round, with -the elegance of the broad sterns. - -Every thing appears to be in an improving state at the arsenal. In the -house where the office of the commodore and his agents is kept, there is -a hall fitted up as a chapel; this serves during the week as a -school-room for the midshipmen; we found these young gentlemen engaged -in their mathematical studies, under the direction of the chaplain. - -In the harbour we visited two Liverpool packet-ships, the William -Thompson and the Pacific. Every regular mode of communication between -two places, by stages, steam-boats, &c. is here called a line. Two years -since, I saw the packet-ship Cortez, at Liverpool, and admired her -elegant arrangements; but these two vessels were far superior to her in -regard to elegance and comfort. Both have a large dining room, and in -its centre a long mahogany table; on both sides of the dining room are -the state-rooms, each of them containing two beds one above the other, -and a wash-table. In this cabin there are ten of these state-rooms, five -on each side, and, besides, near the windows in the stern of the ship, -there are two state-rooms having but one bed, so that twenty-two -gentlemen may be accommodated. The mizen-mast passes through the cabin -and table. The cabin is lighted partly by the windows in the stern and -partly by a large skylight; the state-rooms receive their light by -patent deck-lights. There is another room in front of the dining room, -for the ladies, near the mainmast, where the motion of the vessel is the -least felt; on each side of their room, are two state-rooms, for eight -ladies. The sides of the dining room and ladies cabin are of mahogany -and curled maple, with elegant looking-glasses. In the Pacific, between -every two state-rooms there are columns of white marble. All the settees -are of mahogany covered with black horse hair cushions, and the floors -of both cabins are richly carpeted. The stairs which lead into the -dining room, are likewise of mahogany and covered by a shelter, under -which sea-sick passengers may sit on benches. There is likewise a roof -over the poop, where passengers may walk and be sheltered from the rain -and sun. The passage from New York to Liverpool costs but thirty -guineas, for which price passengers are perfectly accommodated. Each -packet is of about five hundred tons, and they sometimes make the -passage in seventeen days. On the 1st and 16th of each month, one of the -eight vessels of this line leaves New York for Liverpool, and on the -same day another leaves Liverpool for New York. - -On the first Sunday of my stay in New York, I visited the new Lutheran -church, with the consul, Mr. Zimmerman. The service was in English, -because there are at New York but few descendants of German parents who -understand the German language. Dr. Schaeffer preached: he is a native -of Philadelphia, and the son of a German clergyman; his sermon was good -and not too long, but after the sermon came a lamentation upon the -miserable state of the church funds, which was not particularly -edifying. There appeared to be a deficit of eighteen thousand dollars, -which the consistory tried to make up by subscription, to which the -congregation was invited to contribute. Dr. Schaeffer's congregation -formerly belonged to an older Lutheran church, still existing in this -city, but they parted from the latter and established a new church, -though rather in too extravagant a style, as their expenses were -disproportioned to their income. The minister besides complained of his -own small salary, and implied that an augmentation would not be -unpleasant to him, as he stood in need of it. - -It is a difficult matter to ride in a carriage through the streets on -Sunday, because there are chains stretched across in front of the -churches, to prevent their passage during service. The land of liberty -has also its chains![I-15] - - [Footnote I-15: [This unwarrantable and exasperating usurpation of - extending CHAINS across the public highways is not attempted by - all religious sects. Through the good sense of congregations it - has been entirely relinquished in some of our cities. That it is - productive of more dislike to _churches_ and _churchmen_ than of - any other result, is a truth which will one day be profoundly - felt.]--TRANS.] - -In this manner eight days soon elapsed, and amusement was not wanting, -as my mind was occupied with interesting and useful novelties. I passed -my time in cheerful and pleasant company. At dinner and evening parties -I continued to make interesting acquaintances with men of different -occupations and professions. I observed that the families I visited were -richly furnished with silver, china, and glass; the fine arts also -contributed to the ornament of their apartments. At the evening parties -we commonly had music and dancing. The dinner parties consisted -generally of from twenty to thirty persons, whose conversation was -generally refined. In New York, as well as at all other places, where -English customs prevail, the ladies leave the table during the dessert, -and the gentlemen keep their seats; however, nobody is obliged to drink, -unless he feels inclined. Every one rises and leaves the house without -ceremony. The servants are generally negroes and mulattos; most of the -white servants are Irish; the Americans have a great abhorrence of -servitude. Liveries are not to be seen; the male servants wear frock -coats. All the families complain of bad servants and their impudence, -because the latter consider themselves on an equality with their -employers. Of this insolence of servants I saw daily examples. Negroes -and mulattos are abundant here, but they generally rank low, and are -labourers. There are but a few slaves in the state of New York, and even -these are to be freed in the year 1827, according to a law passed by -senate of the state. There are public schools established for the -instruction of coloured children, and I was told that these little -ape-like creatures do sometimes learn very well. In the city there are -several churches belonging to the coloured population; most of them are -Methodists, some Episcopalians. A black minister, who was educated in an -Episcopalian seminary, is said to be a good preacher. But there is in -this country a great abhorrence of this class of people, who are obliged -to live almost like the Indian Parias. In the army they are only -employed as musicians, but are never admitted to be soldiers. Soldiers -are not even allowed to be of mixed blood![I-16] - - [Footnote I-16: [Blacks are shipped as seamen in the navy of the - United States, where they stand on the same level with white - seamen.]--TRANS.] - -Colonel Bankhead, of the second artillery regiment, who was on the -recruiting service in this city, offered to show me the fortifications -for the defence of the bay of New York. We sailed in a boat, along with -General Swift and an engineer, first to Governor's Island, opposite to -New York. - -Upon this small island is a fort of red sandstone, called Columbus; it -consists of four bastions, which, on the city side, has still a covered -work between two of the bastions, but further below, in the Narrows, new -fortifications have been built, and therefore Fort Columbus is -considered useless and is neglected. In the interior are the barracks -and arsenals, the former in very good order, and inhabited by a company -of artillery. I found a bible in each room, and was informed that it was -a present from the New York Bible Society. - -West of the fort, near the river, there is a tower after the style of -Montalambert, called Castle Williams. This was commenced in 1803, and -finished in 1811. Colonel Macrea of the artillery in the fort, received -me with twenty-one guns. The officers have lodgings and gardens on the -glacis of the fort; there is likewise a wooden barrack, which serves in -time of war for a battalion of infantry; a large two-story brick house -with a piazza, is intended for the head-quarters of the commanding -general. Opposite to Castle Williams, are two small islands; on each of -them is likewise a battery, called Fort Wood and Fort Gibson. These -batteries appear but small, and the principal defence will be at Castle -Williams, where also I observed furnaces for heating shot. From this -spot there is a particularly fine view of the city. - -We then sailed along the western shores of Long Island, to the straits -called the Narrows, a thousand yards wide, and formed by the shores of -Long Island and Staten Island. They are defended by Fort Tompkins on -Staten Island, and Fort La Fayette on Long Island. We visited the -latter; it is built on rocks in the sea, two hundred and fifty yards -distant from the shores, so that it forms an island. It is a square -building, and erected after a plan of General Swift. From the outside it -has the appearance of a Montalambert tower. The outside of the walls is -of red sandstone, but their interior of gneiss; it was garrisoned by one -company of artillery. During peace a shed was built over the platform, -and a garrison stationed here during the present hot summer. - -Fort Tompkins stands on a height opposite to Fort La Fayette, and on the -shore of Staten Island is a battery which defends the Narrows by a -raking fire. - -On Long Island is another hill near the village of New Utrecht which -commands Fort La Fayette, and in the vicinity there is a bay, where the -English and Hessian army landed in the year 1776, when coming from -Staten Island to take possession of Long Island. In order to defend this -spot sufficiently they are about to build a very strong fort designed by -General Bernard, resembling Fort Francis, near Coblenz, (on the Rhine.) -The casemates, calculated for dwellings as well as for defence, are to -be built under the ramparts, whose front face will be three hundred and -seventy-five feet long: they are to be covered with earth, and a common -rampart erected on top of them. In front of this is a covered way in the -ditch, lower than the ramparts, with six guns, three on each side, for -the defence of the ditch, &c. They were just beginning to build this -fort, which is to be called Fort Hamilton, and the engineer-officers -thought that it would not be finished in less than four years. The -government has experienced the disadvantage of those buildings which -were built by contract, and this well-arranged work will therefore be -built under the immediate direction of government. General Bernard is a -Frenchman; he was engineer at Antwerp, and obtained the attention and -favour of the Emperor Napoleon by his great knowledge and modesty, who -appointed him his aid. In 1815, he entered the service of the United -States, at the recommendation of General La Fayette, and was appointed -in the engineer corps under the title of assistant engineer, with the -salary of a brigadier-general, but without wearing the uniform of the -engineer corps, nor having any rank in the army. - -He is a great acquisition to the corps, and I was somewhat astonished at -the cool and indifferent manner in which they spoke of this -distinguished engineer. The cause, however, of this coolness, -undoubtedly is to be found in a silly misconception of patriotism; for -the general is a foreigner, and frequent experience has shown that a -foreigner in military service seldom enjoys satisfaction. Two new -fortifications are to be built outside of the Narrows on rocks, in order -still better to defend the entrance to New York, by firing crosswise at -vessels, and are intended to serve as advanced posts to Forts La Fayette -and Tompkins. - -A gun-maker, by name of Ellis, received a patent for making -repeating-guns; I visited him in company with Mr. Tromp. A repeating -musket will fire frequently after being once loaded; it consists of a -long tube, in which touch-holes are bored at certain distances, -according to the number of shots it is intended to discharge. The musket -is charged in the usual way, a piece of sole-leather is put upon the -load, on this another charge, and again a piece of leather, &c. until -the required number is introduced, according to the size of the tube. -For each of these loads, whose height is known by a mark on the rod, -there are touch-holes made on the right side of the tube, each of them -closed by a valve. A box is attached to the lock, which primes itself, -and moves downwards from the highest touch-hole to the lowest, until the -shots are gradually discharged, one after the other, and in the same -manner the valves of each touch-hole must be opened. This instrument was -very interesting to me. Mr. Ellis has also made an experiment of his -plan for the use of American troops, but it seems to me that such a tube -would be much too long and too heavy, and the loading would consume too -much time, not to speak of the difficulty of drilling a man to use this -curious weapon. This idea struck me, and my opinion was confirmed as -soon as I tried Mr. Ellis's gun. The experiments I made with it, proved -to me that particular care would be necessary in using it without -danger. A musket of this nature, containing five charges, fired the two -first separately, and the last three at once! - -We also went with Mr. Tromp to several private wharves on the East -river; the largest of these belongs to Mr. Bayard, my banker. On one of -the wharves there was a frigate on the stocks, of sixty-four guns, -intended for the Greeks; they worked very industriously, and hoped that -she would depart for her destination next year. She was built of -Carolina live oak like the government vessels. The advantage of this -wood is said to be, that in addition to its durability, when balls -strike it, they simply make a hole, without many splinters, which latter -generally disable more men than the shot themselves. At another wharf -lay a frigate of sixty-eight guns, with an elliptic stern; she was built -for the republic of Colombia, and is nearly ready for sea; she is built -like a ship of the line. Her gun-deck was so high that I could stand -upright in it.[I-17] On the upper deck the guns were disposed of in an -irregular row, which gave this frigate still more the appearance of a -ship of the line. The three masts raked somewhat like those of a -schooner, which was said to be more fashionable than useful. When we -came on board they were just finishing the officers cabins; they were -built of mahogany and maple, roomy, and the state-rooms long, so that -the officers are very comfortably situated. The cabins as well as the -mess-rooms were below deck, therefore not in the way during an action. -In the battery were only the rooms of the captain. There were also two -other men of war on the stocks, of smaller dimensions, which are also -said to be intended for Colombia. The guns of all these ships were -manufactured at Mr. Campbell's foundry, near West Point. - - [Footnote I-17: [The duke, it will be recollected, was rather - above six feet in height.]--TRANS.] - -The house of the American Bible Society, to which I was accompanied by -Mr. Eddy, was built by voluntary contributions of its members, and has -been three years finished. It is four stories high, built of red -sandstone and brick, and cost twenty-two thousand dollars. In the -basement story is the office and place of deposit for bound bibles, -which lie on shelves, ready to be sent away. The English bibles are sold -at one dollar and forty cents, and the Spanish, of which a great number -are printed and intended for South America, for one dollar and fifty -cents. They also sell a great many new testaments separately. - -In the office I saw a great collection of old and new bibles; among them -I observed Walton's Polyglot, of which I had already seen a copy in the -library of Harvard College, near Boston; an old bible, printed in -Switzerland, in the old German text; also a new very elegant folio -bible, printed at Zurich; one in Irish, with the most singular type; -a bible half in the Sclavonic and half in the Russian language; in -showing the latter they told me that bible societies were prohibited in -Russia; also two bibles in Chinese, one printed at Calcutta, and the -other at Macao. The printing-office and the bookbindery of the society -are in the second, third, and fourth stories of the building, and are in -charge of a bookbinder and printer under certain contracts. In the -garret they dry the fresh printed sheets. The English and Spanish bibles -are stereotyped; they have now in operation twelve or thirteen presses; -these presses are made of iron and very simple, but without a drawing a -description of them would be unintelligible. To every press there is a -workman, and a boy whose business it is to ink the form. At the -bookbindery several women and girls are engaged to fold the sheets. -These persons work in the third story, and in order to separate them -entirely from the males, there is a separate stair for them to ascend. -The large hall where the members of the bible society meet, is decorated -with two portraits, one of Governor Jay, and the other of Dr. Boudinot, -first president of the society. - -The high school was also built by subscription; in this building three -hundred boys are educated, not gratuitously, as in Boston, but by a -quarterly payment, according to the class the boy is in. In the first -class every child has to pay three dollars, in the second, five, in the -third, seven dollars; the mode of instruction is the Lancasterian. In -the lower classes are small children, some only four years old; they -learn spelling, reading, writing, and the elements of arithmetic. The -boys are generally commanded by the sound of a whistle, like sailors; -they rise, seat themselves, take their slates, and put them away, form -classes in order to change the different courses of instruction, all of -which is done at the whistle of the instructors. In the middle class -education is more extended; the children are instructed in grammar, -English, Latin, history, geography, physics, and make likewise -considerable progress in mathematics. In the highest class the boys are -instructed in the higher mathematics, and are prepared to enter college. -As I entered the school they were just receiving instruction in -geography. The teacher asked, where is Weimar? The answer was, on the -Rhine. The instructor then informed the children of the meritorious -share my forefathers had in the Reformation, and praised the -encouragement given in modern times to literature in Weimar. He spoke -altogether with great enthusiasm of German literature, and concluded by -wishing that the time might soon come, when instruction in the German -language should be given at this school. As I left the room the scholars -spontaneously applauded me, and I confess I was affected by it. In this -higher class the orders are also given with a whistle, combined however -with a small telegraph, which stands on the desk of the principal. This -school, which is only seven years old, is already in possession of a -very handsome mineralogical cabinet, and a small philosophical -apparatus. - -The institution for juvenile offenders is situated out of town; it is -for children condemned by the court to imprisonment, and are thus -confined in a separate prison to improve their principles by education. -When they are improved, and have some education, they are then bound out -to a farmer in the country, but if they are of an untameable -disposition, and need stronger control, they are then disposed of as -sailors. The girls are bound out as servants in the country. In order to -have a good location for this institution, the society bought, of the -United States government, a building, heretofore used as an arsenal, but -become useless to the government on account of its distance from the -water. It has existed but one year, and has at present forty-four -juvenile delinquents. The sexes are separated, and each child occupies a -distinct chamber. During the day they are mostly employed in learning, -and in domestic occupations. As the building was not sufficiently large -to receive all the offenders, a new one was built in the rear of the -first, which the boys were employed in erecting. One of the boys who had -escaped twice, walked about with an iron chain and heavy iron ball -secured to his leg. A young man of respectable family, sixteen years -old, who was imprisoned for his great propensity to stealing, was -employed as a sub-instructor, account-keeper, and sub-overseer of the -institution. Hopes are still entertained that he may be reclaimed. - -From this institution, Mr. Eddy led me to another establishment, also -founded and supported by voluntary contributions, viz. the Orphan -Asylum. The house, in which there are one hundred children of both -sexes, is in a very healthy situation; the rooms are large, and the -children sleep in wards, which contain twelve beds. They are instructed -in reading, writing, arithmetic, particularly in mental calculation, and -at the age of twelve years they are bound out to farmers. Several of the -boys were very expert in mental calculation, and solved the following -questions with great facility:--How much is three hundred and twenty -multiplied by three hundred and forty; how many days constitute three -years seven months and twenty-one days? The manner of instruction is -Lancasterian. The principal directors of this institution are Friends, -among whom Mr. Collins is said to be the most distinguished. - -With Mr. Eddy, I also visited the state-prison, which contains about -five hundred and fifty prisoners of both sexes, and can receive seven -hundred. The building stands in the village of Greenwich, was built -about twenty years, and at that time stood quite insulated; since that -period the population has so rapidly increased, that Greenwich is united -with New York, and three sides of the prison are surrounded with rows of -houses; the fourth faces the Hudson river. In front of the house are the -offices and stores, behind this are two courts, which are separated by a -church; one yard is for males, and the other for females. The dwellings -surround the yards, and are three stories high. The prisoners sleep -eight in a room, on straw mats, covered with woollen blankets; every -sleeping room is separately locked; the eating-hall is spacious; the -fare, good brown bread, soup, and three times a week meat; on other -days, fish. The workshops are in appropriate buildings, partly built of -wood, standing in separate yards. You find among them all kinds of -handicrafts, and all domestic utensils and clothing are manufactured. -Articles intended for sale, are generally wooden ware, brushes, and -other household utensils. The prisoners receive no money, and if they -are backward in working, or otherwise behave ill, they are subjected to -solitary confinement, which soon brings them to their senses. There is -nothing to object to this building, except that the stairs are of wood, -and there is otherwise too much wood about the house, which appears to -me dangerous, in case of fire. - -On the second Sunday of my stay in this city, I went with the consul, -Mr. Zimmerman, to a German Lutheran church, where the venerable Mr. -Geisenheimer, performed the service in the German language. It was a -curious accident, that, when I entered the church, they sung an ancient -hymn, which was composed by Duke William, of Saxe-Weimar. My ancestor -certainly never expected that one of the unworthiest of his descendants -should, for the first time in his life hear, in the new world, that he -had composed church music, and that this hymn should originally greet -his ears in New York. The church is very old and inelegant; the -congregation was plain: however, they are not in debt, and the church is -moreover said to possess a good fund. The organ was good, and the -performance of the organist pleasing. - -I twice visited the theatre; in Chatham Theatre, situated at the -extremity of a public garden, they performed the melo-drama of the Lady -of the Lake tolerably well. I was much pleased with the inside of the -theatre, and particularly with the decorations; it was full of people, -and the heat extreme. Ladies of the first fashion do not go often to the -theatre. In the pit persons pulled off their coats, in order to be cool. -At the Park Theatre, so called because it is situated near the Park, the -drama of William Tell was performed, and the after-piece of Love, Law -and Physic. The first is by no means an imitation of Schiller's drama, -but entirely dressed up in English taste, with a full share of battles. -Whenever any observation was made in favour of liberty, the pit -applauded. The decorations were very handsome, and I was pleased with -the internal arrangement of the theatre, but the spectators were not -numerous. The visitors of the theatre are entirely unrestrained; the -gentlemen keep on their hats in the boxes, and in the pit they make -themselves in every respect comfortable. - -On the afternoon of the third of October, there was a great procession -of negroes, some of them well dressed, parading through the streets, two -by two, preceded by music and a flag. An African club, called the -Wilberforce Society, thus celebrated the anniversary of the abolition of -slavery in New York, and concluded the day by a dinner and ball. The -coloured people of New York, belonging to this society, have a fund of -their own, raised by weekly subscription, which is employed in assisting -sick and unfortunate blacks. This fund, contained in a sky-blue box, was -carried in the procession; the treasurer holding in his hand a large -gilt key; the rest of the officers wore ribands of several colours, and -badges like the officers of free masons; marshals with long staves -walked outside of the procession. During a quarter of an hour, scarcely -any but black faces were to be seen in Broadway. - -Mr. J. R. Livingston, a very respectable citizen of New York, whose -country seat is at Massena, near Redhook, about a hundred miles up the -Hudson river, near the little town called Hudson, invited me to visit -him, and be present at a ball. I accepted the invitation, especially as -I was informed I should find assembled there the best society, who -generally reside during the summer in the country. - -The Grymes' family, which arrived at New York not long after me, were -likewise of the party. Consequently we left New York on the 5th of -October, on board the safety-barge Lady Van Rensselaer, for Albany. As -Mr. Livingston had invited several other persons of the best families of -New York, who were all on board, good conversation was not wanting. -About half past five we started, but did not long enjoy the beauties of -this noble river, as it soon became dark. During night we were awakened -with the unpleasant news that the leading boat had run ashore in a fog. -After five hours of useless exertion to get her afloat, we were obliged -to go on board the steam-boat Henry Eckford, passing up the river. This -boat was old, and no longer used for conveying passengers, but as a -tow-boat. She had vessels attached to her, on both sides, laden with -goods, which gave her the appearance of a ferry-boat. Though not very -pleasantly situated on board of this boat, we had a good opportunity of -observing the magnificent banks of the river after the fog disappeared. -Instead of arriving at eight o'clock, A. M. we did not reach our place -of destination till five o'clock P. M. We were received by the owner, -a gentleman seventy-six years old, and his lovely daughter. The house is -pleasantly situated on an elevated spot in a rather neglected park. Our -new acquaintances mostly belonged to the Livingston family. I was -introduced to Mr. Edward Livingston, member of congress, the brother of -our entertainer, a gentleman, who for talent and personal character, -stands high in this country. He resides in Louisiana, and is employed in -preparing a new criminal code for that state, which is much praised by -those who are acquainted with jurisprudence. - -In the evening about eight o'clock, the company assembled at the ball, -which was animated, and the ladies elegantly attired. They danced -nothing but French contra-dances, for the American ladies have so much -modesty that they object to waltzing. The ball continued until two -o'clock in the morning. I became acquainted at this ball with two young -officers from West Point, by the name of Bache, great grandsons of Dr. -Franklin. Their grandmother was the only daughter of this worthy man; -one is a lieutenant of the artillery at West Point, and the other was -educated in the same excellent school, and obtained last year the first -prize-medal; he was then appointed lieutenant of the engineer corps, and -second professor of the science of engineering, under Professor -Douglass. On the following day we took a ride in spite of the great -heat, at which I was much astonished, as it was so late in the season, -to the country-seat of General Montgomery's widow, a lady eighty-two -years of age, sister to the elder Messrs. Livingstons. General -Montgomery fell before Quebec on the 31st of October, 1775. This worthy -lady, at this advanced age, is still in possession of her mental -faculties; her eyes were somewhat dim. Besides her place of residence, -which is handsomely situated on the Hudson river, she possesses a good -fortune. Adjoining the house is a small park with handsome walks, and a -natural waterfall of forty feet. I observed in the house a portrait of -General Montgomery, besides a great number of family portraits, which -the Americans seem to value highly. According to this painting he must -have been a very handsome man. At four o'clock in the afternoon we left -our friendly landlord and embarked in the steam-boat Olive Branch, -belonging to the Livingston family for New York, where we arrived next -morning at six o'clock. - -During the last day of my stay at New York, I received two interesting -visits, one from the Prussian consul at Washington, Mr. Niederstetter, -and the other from a Piedmontese count, Charles Vidua, who has made -several journeys through Scandinavia, Turkey, Asia Minor, Palestine, -Egypt, &c. and is now travelling through America. Afterwards I paid a -few farewell visits. At Mr. Eddy's I found a whole society of Quakers, -men and women; they took much pains to convince me of the excellence of -their sect, and seemed not disinclined to adopt me as one of their -members; at least they desired me to read the letter of an English -sea-captain, who resigned his situation as a captain in the British -navy, and turned Quaker. Mr. Eddy gave me likewise Barclay's Apology for -the Quakers, in German, to read and reflect upon. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - _Journey to Philadelphia.-- Stay in that place.-- Bethlehem and - Nazareth._ - - -On the 10th of October we left the city of New York in the steam-boat -Thistle, which conveyed us to New Brunswick, through a thick fog which -lasted all day. For several days past we had smoky, warm weather, which -was ascribed to the burning of a forest in the state of Maine. - -The shores of New Jersey seemed flat and swampy, resembling very much -the Dutch banks. As we approached New Brunswick, the banks of the -Raritan become higher. On our arrival, eight stages were already waiting -for us, having each four horses, and the passengers were so numerous -that each stage carried from eight to nine persons; we had hardly time -to have our baggage packed, and consequently could see nothing of the -neighbourhood. We continued our journey through New Brunswick, -apparently a busy and well built place, thirty miles by land to Trenton, -on the Delaware. The road led through a hilly country, but carefully -turnpiked, several pits being filled up to make the road even. This road -is formed somewhat according to the manner of German turnpikes, of small -beaten stones, with side-roads and ditches. The neighbourhood is mostly -woody, consisting of chesnuts and oaks. The forest has been regularly -cleared of undergrowth, and has a cleanly appearance. In places where -wood has been felled, the land is well cultivated with corn and fruit -trees. Most of the good-looking houses we passed were provided with -cider-presses. About four o'clock, P. M. we arrived at Trenton, and -immediately embarked in the steam-boat Philadelphia. - -I was very sorry for this great hurry, because I should have liked to -have examined Trenton; it is a very handsome place, and was to me -particularly interesting, on account of General Washington's crossing -the Delaware above Trenton, in the winter of 1776-77, and attacking a -troop of Hessians, of whom he took one thousand four hundred prisoners. -The Hessian Colonel Rall fell in this engagement. This was one of the -best fought battles of the American war. There is, moreover, at Trenton, -a remarkable bridge crossing the Delaware. It consists of five great -suspended wooden arches which rest upon two stone abutments, and three -stone piers. The difference between this bridge and others consists in -this, that in common bridges the road runs over the tangent, but in this -bridge, the roads form the segment of the arch. The bridge is divided in -two roads in order that wagons may pass without meeting, and has also -side-walks for foot-passengers. - -The banks of the Delaware are hilly, well cultivated, and covered with -elegant country-seats and villages. The neighbourhood, and the breadth -of the river reminded me of the river Main, near Frankfort; -unfortunately we could not enjoy this handsome landscape, because as -soon as we arrived on board, we set down to dinner, and afterwards it -became dark. Amongst other little towns, we passed Bordentown, where -Count Survilliers, Joseph Buonaparte, ex-king of Spain, has a very -handsome country-seat, and Burlington. About eight o'clock, P. M. we -reached Philadelphia. Mr. Tromp, who left New York a few days before, -came immediately on board, and conducted us to the Mansion House, where, -though we were not so elegantly lodged as at New York, we found every -thing neat and comfortable. Next morning we drove out early, in order to -get acquainted with the city, which contains more than one hundred and -twenty thousand inhabitants, and to observe some curiosities. We went up -Market street over the Schuylkill. In the middle of this broad Market -street or High street, the first objects we perceived were the -market-houses; the long, straight, uniform streets, which appeared to be -endless, seemed singular to us: they are mostly planted with poplars, -and all provided with paved side-walks. In point of showiness of stores -and bustle, the streets of Philadelphia are far behind New York. - -The two bridges over the Schuylkill are of wood; Market street bridge, -consists of three covered arches of very strong wood-work, which rest -upon two stone piers, and two stone abutments. These piers and abutments -are built upon a rock; the pier on the west side must have cost a great -deal of labour, because the rock on which it stands, is dug out -forty-one feet below low-water mark. It is said, that this pier required -seventy-five thousand tons of stone. The length of this bridge including -the piers, is one thousand three hundred feet, whereof the wood-work -takes up five hundred and fifty feet; the extent of the middle arch -amounts to one hundred and ninety feet, and the two others, each one -hundred and fifty feet. A company, in the year 1798, began this bridge, -and finished it in six years. At the east end of the bridge is an -obelisk, which contains the following inscription: that besides the cost -of the ground on which this bridge and its appendages stand, and which -amount to forty thousand dollars, there were two hundred and thirty-five -thousand dollars expended in building it; about a mile above this bridge -there is another over the Schuylkill, which was finished in 1813, and -cost one hundred and fifty thousand dollars; it is also of wood, and -consists of a single arch, whose segment amounts to three hundred and -forty feet, four inches; a toll is paid for crossing both bridges. - -Somewhat north of the last bridge, and on the left bank of the -Schuylkill are the water-works, by means of which the whole city of -Philadelphia is supplied with water, even to the tops of the houses if -wanting. The water of the Schuylkill is raised by aid of a dam; the -water runs into a basin behind the dam as in a mill-pond; hence it -drives by its fall three wheels, each of them sixteen feet in diameter, -which are in an appropriate building. These wheels work three horizontal -pumps, which force the water through iron pipes into the reservoir, -ninety-two feet above the surface of the river. Within twenty-four -hours, four million gallons of water can be pumped into the reservoirs. -From these basins the water is conveyed by iron pipes into every part of -the city. At certain distances there are hydrants, where hoses can be -screwed on in case of fire. Generally, one wheel and one pump are -worked, the others are kept in reserve, and are only used in case an -extra quantity of water is needed, or in case of fire. This work has now -been in operation for two years; it was designed by Mr. Graff, an -hydraulic engineer; the whole establishment cost four hundred and -thirty-two thousand five hundred and twelve dollars; the daily expenses, -including two overseers, are five dollars. The dam has also rendered the -upper part of the Schuylkill navigable, and in order to unite the upper -with the lower part of the river, a canal with a lock to it, has been -opened along the western side of the dam. - -A high square pyramidal tower attracted our attention; it is a -shot-tower, one hundred and sixty-six feet high. The melted lead, which -is thrown through a tin box, whose apertures are suited to the size of -shot wanting, falls from the whole height into water; while falling it -forms itself into shot and becomes cold as it falls in the water. The -different numbers of shot are intermixed; in order to separate the -perfect from the imperfect shot, they put them in a flat basin, and by a -certain motion in an oblique direction, the perfectly round ones roll -down into a receiver, whilst the imperfect remain in the basin. After -this they throw the good shot into a box of the shape of a bureau, with -rockers like a cradle; the drawers have perforated tin bottoms, the -upper drawer has the largest holes, and the lower the smallest; when the -upper drawer is filled with shot, it is locked, and then the whole box -is rocked for some minutes. Through this the shot is separated according -to the size, and I believe there are fourteen different numbers. In -order to give the shot a perfectly smooth surface, they throw it into a -box which is attached to a wheel turned by water, and in this manner -they are rolled for some time. They are then packed according to their -number, in bags, and carried into the warehouse. - -In front of the state house, whose lower floor is used as a court room, -we saw a great assemblage of people; we heard it was the election of the -common council. This state house is remarkable in an historical point of -view, as being the place where the Declaration of Independence was -signed, on the 4th of July, 1776, and in which the first Congress -assembled, until its removal to Washington City. From the public houses -in the vicinity, flags were displayed, to give notice what political -party assembled there; hand-bills were sent all over town into the -houses, to invite votes. From the tenor of these bills one might have -concluded that the city was in great danger. The election, however, -to our exceeding astonishment, passed over very peaceably.[I-18] - - [Footnote I-18: Here is one of the bills. - - SIR, - - The enclosed _Federal Republican_ Ticket, is earnestly recommended - to you for your support, _This Day_. Our opponents are active-- - Danger threatens-- Every vote is important-- One may be decisive. - Be therefore on the alert-- vote early for your own convenience, - and the public good. Bring your friends to the poll, and all will - be well. The improvement of the city is carefully regarded-- good - order and tranquillity abounds-- general prosperity is every where - apparent. Then secure by your vote _This Day_, a continuance of - the present happy state of things. - - Our mayor is independent, faithful, and vigilant:-- _Who will be - mayor if we fail_!!! Think on this and hesitate no longer, but - vote the whole of the enclosed ticket. - - (Naturalized citizens will please to take their certificates with - them.) - - _Tuesday, October 11th, 1825._] - -The Bank of the United States, which is situated in Chesnut street, is -the handsomest building that I have yet beheld in this country; it is -built of white marble, after the model of the Parthenon at Athens; its -entrance is decorated by eight Doric columns, and large broad steps. -White marble is very common here; the steps of most houses are made of -it. The railings are generally of iron with bright brass knobs; even on -the scrapers at the doors I observed these bright brass knobs. The -private houses are generally built of brick, the kitchens, &c. are -commonly in the cellar. I observed here a very good contrivance, which I -also remarked in various cities of the United States, that there are -openings through the foot-pavement, covered by a locked iron grate, -which serves to throw wood, coal, &c. in the cellar, so that they need -not be carried through the houses. - -I visited several bookstores; the store of Messrs. Carey, Lea & Carey -appeared to be well assorted; Tanner's is the best mapstore. - -The Philadelphia Museum was commenced by an artist, CHARLES WILLSON -PEALE, and was subsequently incorporated as a joint stock company. The -most remarkable curiosity it contains is undoubtedly the famous skeleton -of the mastodon, which has rendered this museum so celebrated. The -height of the shoulders is eleven feet; the length of the animal, -including the stooping of the back, from the point of the head to the -tail, measures thirty-one feet, but in a straight line seventeen and a -half feet; its two large tusks are ten feet seven inches long; one of -the back teeth,--for there are no front teeth,--measures eighteen and a -half inches in circumference, and weighs four pounds ten ounces. The -whole skeleton weighs about one thousand pounds. I was somewhat -astonished that the knee of the fore-foot bends backwards and not -forwards.[I-19] This skeleton was found in a swamp in the state of New -York, and there is a painting representing the colossal machine and -building, by which the skeleton was removed from the swamp. For the sake -of contrast, they have put the skeleton of an elephant next the -mastodon. Under its foot is the skeleton of a mouse. - - [Footnote I-19: [This surprise originated from the almost - universal mistake of considering the _elbow_ of animals as a - _knee_. The anterior extremities of animals are in all respects - analogous to those of the superior extremities of man; hence the - second joint from the shoulder blade uniformly bends backward like - the human elbow. It is not longer ago than the year 1810, that the - present Sir Everard Home, whose pretensions as a comparative - anatomist are well known, almost quarrelled with Mr. Peale, in - presence of Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Heavisides, for insisting - upon the similarity of the anterior limbs of animals to the human - arm!]--TRANS.] - -The academy of fine arts is a collection of paintings and statues. The -best works which we saw belong to Count Survilliers. Among these was the -count's own portrait, robed as king of Spain, the portrait of his lady, -and his two daughters, while yet children, all painted by Gérard of -Paris. There were four busts, one of Madame Mère, the queen of Naples, -Madame Murat, the princess Borghese, and the empress Marie Louise; and -last of all a statue, representing the infant king of Rome, all by -Canova. Amongst other paintings I observed several from the Flemish -school, very few Italian, but some very fine pieces by Granet, which -represented the interior of an Italian cloister. Two large paintings, -one representing the children of Niobe by Rehberg, and the other the -raising from the dead by touching the bones of the prophet Elisha, by -the American painter Allston; both have merit, but I was neither pleased -with the colouring nor execution. The statues are mostly casts, copies -of the most famous antiquities. I observed, however, amongst them, the -Venus of Canova. - -In wandering through the streets I was struck with a building having a -dome similar to the Roman pantheon; it was a Baptist chapel. -I accordingly entered; the interior arrangement was very simple, and -offered nothing remarkable. In the midst of the chapel is the baptismal -font for baptising grown persons; it is a marble bath, something in the -manner of the bath in the palace of Weimar. While speaking on this -subject, I will notice the various sects that have churches in this -city. 1st, Catholics; 2d, Protestant Episcopal; 3d, Presbyterian; 4th, -Scotch Presbyterian; 5th, Covenanters, or Reformed Presbyterians; 6th, -Baptist; 7th, the Methodist; most of the coloured people belong to the -latter sect; 8th, the Friends or Quakers; 9th, the Free Quakers; 10th, -German Lutheran; 11th, German Reformed; 12th, Dutch Reformed; 13th, -Universalists; 14th, Swedenborgians; 15th, Moravians, or United -Brethren; 16th, Swedish Lutheran; 17th, Mount Zion; 18th, Menonists; -19th, Bible Christians; 20th, Mariners Church; 21st, Unitarians; and -22d, Israelites; and all these sects live peaceably in the vicinity of -each other. - -A merchant, Mr. Halbach, to whom I was introduced, took a walk with me -to two gardens adjoining the city. One of these belongs to a rich -merchant, Mr. Pratt, and is situated upon a rocky peninsula, formed by -the Schuylkill, immediately above the water-works. The soil consists -mostly of quartz and clay. The owner seldom comes there, and this is -easy to be perceived, for instead of handsome grass-plots you see -potatoes and turnips planted in the garden. The trees, however, are very -handsome, mostly chesnut, and some hickory. I also observed particularly -two large and strong tulip trees; the circumference of one was fifteen -feet. In the hot-houses was a fine collection of orange trees, and a -handsome collection of exotic plants, some of the order Euphorbia from -South America; also a few palm trees. The gardener, an Englishman by -birth, seemed to be well acquainted with his plants. Through a hydraulic -machine the water is brought up from the river into several basins, and -thence forced into the hot-houses. There was also in the garden a -mineral spring of a ferruginous quality. From several spots in the -garden there are fine views of the Schuylkill, whose banks, covered with -trees, now in the fall of the year, have a striking and pleasant effect -from the various hues of the foliage. The other garden, called -Woodlands, belonged to the Hamilton family. The road led us through the -village of Mantua, which altogether consists of country-seats, and where -Mr. Halbach also has his country residence. Woodlands has more the -appearance of an English park than Mr. Pratt's country-seat; the -dwelling house is large, and provided with two balconies, from both of -which there is a very fine view, especially of the Schuylkill and -floating bridge. Inside of the dwelling there is a handsome collection -of pictures; several of them are of the Dutch school. What particularly -struck me was a female figure, in entire dishabelle, laying on her back, -with half-lifted eyes expressive of exquisite pleasure. There were also -orange trees and hot-houses, superintended by a French gardener. - -The navy-yard, which I visited with Mr. Tromp, was shown us by a -lieutenant of the navy and major Miller of the marines; at the same time -I became acquainted with the naval architect, Mr. Humphreys, who is -considered one of the most skilful in his department in the United -States. Three years ago he visited England and its dock-yards by order -of the government. This navy-yard is not very large, for although ships -are built here, yet they do not leave the yard perfectly equipped, as -the Delaware is too shallow for completely armed ships of the line. On -the stocks there was a ship of the line and a frigate yet incomplete, -which, however, could be made ready for sea in a short time. The former -is to carry one hundred and forty guns, and is said to be the largest -vessel ever built. The frigate was of sixty-four guns. Each vessel had -an elliptic stern, and was under cover. The house which covered the ship -of the line is so large that I counted on one side one hundred and forty -windows. Between the two houses the keel of a sloop of war is to be -laid.[I-20] There was no man-of-war here in actual service, but a small -steam-brig in ordinary, called the Sea Gull, which had returned a few -months ago from the West Indies, where she had been cruising after the -pirates; she was now condemned as unseaworthy, and used as a receiving -ship. Philadelphia is inhabited by many Germans and descendants of -Germans; some respectable people among them have formed themselves into -a German society, which has rendered great services, particularly to the -unfortunate Germans who arrived here some years ago in great numbers. -When those gentlemen heard of my arrival, they invited me to a dinner, -given in honour of me. It took place on the 15th October, in the Masonic -Hall, a large building, erected by the freemasons of this place, whose -basement story contains a very handsome hall, which serves for public -entertainments. The table was set for seventy persons; every thing was -splendid. - - [Footnote I-20: [The Vandalia, recently launched.]--TRANS.] - -Before dinner I was introduced to all the guests present; the -descendants of Germans had almost forgotten their mother tongue; some of -them were lawyers, some merchants, and some mechanics. At the dessert, -several toasts were drank in honour of America and Germany, and also in -honour of me; I of course thanked them in a short speech. Our waiters -were blacks; even the music was performed by blacks, because white -musicians will never perform at public entertainments. After every toast -the music struck up; but our virtuosi were only acquainted with two -German pieces. After drinking my health, they played "a dish and a -song," &c; and after the toast was given of "the German Athens," they -played "Oh thou dear Augustin," &c. After the regular toasts by the -president, Mr. Wampole, were finished, volunteer toasts were drank, -ad infinitum. I soon retired to call upon Mr. Walsh, to whom I was -introduced by letter. - -At Mr. Walsh's I found a numerous assembly, mostly of scientific and -literary gentlemen. This assembly is called "WISTAR PARTY;" it is a -small learned circle which owes its existence to a Quaker physician, Dr. -Wistar, who assembled all the literati and public characters of -Philadelphia at his house, every Saturday evening, where all -well-recommended foreigners were introduced. After his death, the -society was continued by his friends, under the above title, with this -difference, that they now assemble alternately at the houses of the -members. The conversation generally relates to literary and scientific -topics. I unexpectedly met Mr. E. Livingston in this assembly; I was -also introduced to the mayor of the city, Mr. Watson, as well as most of -the gentlemen present, whose interesting conversation afforded me much -entertainment. - -Mr. Shoemaker accompanied us to a Quaker meeting. The Quakers, as is -well known, have no parsons, but sit quietly assembled until the spirit -moves some one. The individual thus excited, then preaches, ad libitum, -whether male or female. The meeting was very quiet when we entered, and -remained quiet for more than an hour; the spirit moved no one; at last -this fatiguing sitting terminated, and we went home unedified. The -church, or rather the meeting-house, is very simple, without the least -ornament; the whole hall is filled with benches, and on an elevated form -sit the elders of both sexes, with those who are in the habit of -preaching. - -A Quaker, Mr. Vaux, is at the head of several public institutions in -Philadelphia. I was introduced to him by Mr. Eddy: he received me -kindly, although using the appellation "_thou_,"[I-21] and promised to -show me these institutions. The first objects we saw in his house, were -paintings and copperplates referring to the first settlement of the -Quakers in this state, and a model of a monument which is intended to be -erected to the memory of William Penn. The model represented an obelisk, -and was made of part of the elm tree under which this great benefactor -of mankind concluded his treaty with the Indians.[I-22] After that we -drove to the new penitentiary, a prison which was built near the -water-works. - - [Footnote I-21: ["Thou," in _German_, is only used in addressing - individuals of the lowest degree.]--TRANS.] - - [Footnote I-22: This took place on the banks of the Delaware, in - Kensington, near Philadelphia. The elm tree was struck by - lightning, a few years ago and destroyed.] - -Efforts have been made to abolish capital punishment in Pennsylvania, -and to substitute solitary confinement, which hitherto has only been -occasionally resorted to in the prisons, for offences committed there; -it is even intended to inflict this punishment for life. It is also -wished to separate prisoners condemned to hard labour, to give them -their tasks in separate cells. For this purpose, a large square yard has -been walled in, each side of which is six hundred and fifty feet long. -This yard has but one entrance, over which is erected a Gothic building, -to accommodate the officers, offices, watchrooms, and hospital wards. -The portal has very much the appearance and strength of the gate of a -fortification. In the middle of this yard is a round tower, which is -intended for the watchmen, and from this central point, six wings run in -an eccentric direction, containing the cells. Each wing consists of a -vaulted corridor, which runs from one end of the wing to the other; -on both sides of each of the six corridors are nineteen cells, whose -entrance is from the outside. There is an opening in every cell, leading -into the vaulted corridor, merely large enough to admit provisions; this -aperture has a small iron door attached to it, only to be opened from -the corridor. To every cell there is a yard, sixteen feet long and seven -feet broad, surrounded by a wall twenty feet high: in this yard leading -to the cell, the prisoner has the liberty of walking, provided the -prisoners in the next cells are locked up. The cell itself is eight feet -long and five feet broad, its entrance is low and small, and secured by -a door and grate. The floor of the cell is of boards, the roof an arch -which inclines outwardly, that the rain may run from it: a patent glass -gives light to the prisoner. There are small apertures in the walls, in -order to admit a current of air, and others to admit heated air during -winter. Every cell has a water-closet, which is connected with the -principal pipe, under the corridor, throughout all the length of the -wings. They are not yet quite decided in what manner the prisoner is to -sleep, whether in a bedstead or on a hammock. - -I do not now wish to enter upon the question whether it is advisable to -abolish capital punishment altogether or not, but I maintain that this -solitary confinement, in which the prisoner is prohibited from all human -converse, without work, exercise, and almost without fresh air, is even -worse than punishment by death. From want of exercise they will -certainly become sickly; from the want of work they will become -unaccustomed to labour, and perhaps lose what skill they may have -possessed heretofore in their trades, so that when restored to the -world, they will be useless for any kind of business, and merely drag -out a miserable existence. No book is allowed them but the bible. It -appears therefore to me perfectly possible, that this insulation of the -prisoner will be injurious to his mind, and drive him to fanaticism, -enthusiasm, and even derangement. When Mr. Vaux asked my opinion of this -prison, I could not refrain from answering him that it reminded me of -the Spanish inquisition, as described by Llorente. Mr. Vaux answered -that it is only an experiment to ascertain whether capital punishment -can be abolished; but notwithstanding this philanthropic view, the -experiment appears to me to be an expensive one, because the building -has already cost three hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and the state -of Pennsylvania will have to expend annually for its support, an immense -sum. The first great object of a government ought to be to provide for -the welfare of its good citizens, and not to oppress them with taxes; on -the contrary, to relieve them as much as possible, as it is hard for the -good citizens to have to maintain vagabonds, for the sake of deterring -others by example, or to render convicts harmless. In this view it -should be the object of the government to arrange the prisons so that -convicts can maintain themselves. When once this is realized, then it is -likewise easier to improve their moral principles. Continued employment -would answer both purposes. If it be possible that the prisoner can earn -a little surplus money, in order that when he returns to society he may -be in possession of a small sum for his pressing necessities, I believe -it would be much better than any philanthropic experiment.[I-23] - - [Footnote I-23: [Both sides of this question are warmly and ably - defended by philanthropists of high character and unquestionable - benevolence. The reader will find in the late correspondence - between ROSCOE and Mr. Roberts Vaux, of Philadelphia, the - arguments urged for and against the system.]--TRANS.] - -The county jail contains prisoners who are waiting for trial; they are, -however, seldom confined longer than one month before they receive -sentence. The house consists of a principal building and two wings; the -one for males, the other for females. In the centre building are the -offices, dwellings of the keepers and watch, as well as the infirmary, -where the patients have good bedding, and are carefully nursed. In the -wings are long corridors, with rooms on each side, which are closed -during the night with iron doors. About eight prisoners sleep in one -room, they sleep on the floor, and have only two blankets, to sleep upon -and cover themselves. The floor is of boards, and I was delighted at the -great cleanliness prevailing through the whole house. At the end of each -wing is a yard where the prisoners walk, and in each yard there is a -shed under which they work. The men I found busy pulling horse-hair, and -most of the females at their usual domestic occupations. Even here we -perceived the great distinction between the white and coloured races. - -The number of female prisoners of both colours was nearly equal, and the -coloured were not permitted to sit on the same bench with the white; the -coloured were separated to the left! I procured a sight of the register, -and was astonished to see that in this free country a magistrate has the -right to imprison a person for two days, for cursing in the streets, as -I found in the book. There are also in the county jail several cells for -solitary confinement, narrow dark holes, in which it must be -insupportably hot during the summer. Those who are of savage behaviour -are confined in these cells, and kept there till they become civil. - -Of the charitable institutions, we visited first, the Orphan Asylum, and -then the hospital for widows, which stand near each other. They owe -their origin to the donation of a lady, which has been increased by -voluntary contributions, and is now under the direction of a board of -ladies, mostly Friends, who are aided by the advice of a few select -gentlemen. In the Orphan Asylum were ninety children of both sexes, who -remain till they are twelve years of age, and are then bound out to -learn a trade. They are educated in the same way as the orphans at New -York. During the hours of recess, the children run about in a garden; -the house is very cleanly, the bed-rooms are spacious, and each contain -twenty beds; nevertheless, two children have to sleep in one bed. - -Some years ago, the house caught fire, and the conflagration was so -rapid that more than thirty children perished in the flames. In -rebuilding the house, they had the praiseworthy consideration to banish -wood entirely from the building, and even the stairs are of stone. The -Widow's Asylum is tenanted by helpless widows, over which the -above-mentioned board also have control. They are boarded, clothed, and -nursed as long as they live. The rooms are occupied by one or two -persons each, and there is a common sitting and eating room. In this -establishment great cleanliness is also observable. - -The large and celebrated hospital of Philadelphia was established by the -Quakers, and is under their direction. It owes its origin to voluntary -contributions and posthumous donations. It is surrounded by a garden, -and consists of a main building with two wings, besides other separate -buildings, one of which is used for incurable lunatics, another for -venereal patients, and others for household purposes and stables; for -they here keep carriages, in which the convalescents ride when it is -allowed. Behind the principal building is a kitchen garden, with a -hot-house that contains many exotic plants. A particular building has -been erected for the painting of Sir Benjamin West, who was a native of -Philadelphia, and presented it to the hospital. The subject of the -painting is Christ healing the sick. Neither the composition nor the -execution of this painting appear to me to be successful; and perhaps it -is only here, where they are unaccustomed to see great and well executed -paintings, that this could excite such astonishing admiration as it has -done.[I-24] It is really singular that near this painting, which -certainly has some merit, they should hang a little picture, -accidentally discovered in the city, which was daubed as a first essay -by the same artist, when young. - - [Footnote I-24: [Perhaps, had his highness known that this picture - was long exhibited and admired in London by amateurs and artists, - who certainly are _somewhat_ accustomed to seeing good pictures, - he would not have pronounced so decidedly from a very cursory - examination. There is nothing, however, which the Duke of - Saxe-Weimar says concerning the fine arts, in these travels, to - entitle his opinion on paintings to any authority.]--TRANS.] - -The hospital is three stories high; in the lower story are the offices, -the apothecary, the rooms of two physicians, one of whom must always be -in the house, and the library, which contains a very handsome collection -of books on medicine and natural history. As a sort of antiquity, they -show here William Penn's arm-chair; a leaden statue, made in England, of -this eminent man, of full size and in the Quaker dress, stands in the -square in front of the house. Corridors run through both wings, and -thence you enter the rooms, each containing twelve patients; they are -under the care of female nurses, and lay on wooden bedsteads; only the -maniacs have them of iron. Throughout this house extraordinary -cleanliness is observed. To the melancholy, every species of employment -is permitted, provided it does not interfere with their own safety or -that of other patients. Some worked in the garden, two were occupied as -cabinet-makers, and a lock-maker from Darmstadt was engaged two years in -making a musket, for which he has prepared a colossal lock of wire and -tin. - -When I returned from this remarkable institution, I received a visit -from a literary gentleman from Leipzic, Mr. Rivinus. This young man had -already been two years in this city, collecting observations on America, -to make known in Germany. I was much interested by him. He appeared to -me well suited to gather information concerning the new world and to -present it to the old; perhaps he may contribute to make German -literature known to the Americans. - -Mr. Vaux had the politeness to accompany me to some literary -institutions. We went first to the Franklin Library; this collection, -which amounts to thirty thousand volumes, was established by voluntary -subscriptions, and is supported by the same means. The subscribers have -the right to take books home with them; the library contains likewise a -large collection of copperplates, and amongst others a handsome edition -of Hogarth's prints. The library is arranged in two great halls, and as -a curiosity they show Dr. Franklin's library chair. The statue of this -famous man stands in a niche over the entrance of the house, and was -presented, as the inscription says, by Mr. Bingham, the meritorious -father of Mr. Bingham of Montreal. After that we went to the -Philosophical Society, which also owns a building, and possesses a rich -library and cabinet.[I-25] The librarian, Mr. John Vaughan, a venerable -gentleman, equally esteemed for his benevolence and urbanity, performed -the honours. He showed us the handwriting of several celebrated -individuals of the revolution. The cabinet contains, amongst other -things, a mineralogical cabinet, a collection of shells, &c. Finally, we -went to the State House, and saw the plain and not very large hall in -which the Declaration of Independence was signed on the 4th of July, -1776. This hall is decorated with a wooden statue, the size of life of -President WASHINGTON; on the pedestal is the following inscription: -"First in war, first in peace, first in the hearts of his countrymen." - - [Footnote I-25: [The library of the American Philosophical Society - is one of the most valuable collections in the United States, and - is richer in the Transactions of other learned societies than any - in our country. The Duke states in the original that books are not - lent from this library, which is so erroneous that we have not - repeated it in the translation. Members of the society enjoy a - free use of the books, and literary men properly recommended are - always able to obtain advantageous access to the library.]--TRANS.] - -On the 18th of October, I travelled in the stage to Bethlehem, a place -settled in the year 1741, by the evangelical congregation of Moravians. -It was impossible to me to leave the state of Pennsylvania without first -visiting this society, which is highly esteemed here on account of their -usefulness, morals, &c. Mr. Vaux gave me a recommendatory letter. - -Bethlehem is fifty-two miles from Philadelphia; as the intercourse -between both places is not very great, the stage goes but twice a week -from each place. Day had not dawned when I left Philadelphia; the stage -was very full, and the weather was uncommonly cold. As stage companions, -I became acquainted with two Messrs. Rice, members of the Moravian -Society, and inhabitants of Bethlehem, and found them very amiable, -sensible, and well-informed men. One of them had travelled in Germany, -and both spoke very good German. We changed horses twice, and also the -stage, which unfortunately was worse at each change, the first time at -Whitemarsh, and the second at Quakertown; the road was mostly turnpike, -and somewhat resembled our German roads, except that the stones thrown -on the road were rather too large, and the path was not well filled up. -After having changed horses the second time, we went on a lately made -turnpike, the stones not having been travelled on. The latter part of -the road was not yet turnpiked, and resembled a rocky bye-road, but, on -account of the dry season, was the most comfortable. The agriculture of -this region shows that the country has already been long under -cultivation. The houses are mostly strong, built of blue limestone, and -covered with shingles. There has been considerable expense bestowed on -the barns, most of them have the appearance of churches. The fields and -meadows were fenced, mostly with zigzag, commonly called worm-fences. -Corn was still standing on the fields, but they had begun to gather it. -The winter grain had already sprouted, and had a pleasing appearance. -The trade in wheat flour is carried on very largely in Pennsylvania; -this flour has very justly obtained a good reputation, and is much -sought for in the West Indies; no where, not even excepting Europe, have -I eaten as good bread as in this state. The original forests have been -eradicated, and you see very few old and handsome trees as in the state -of New York; the wood, however, has grown again, and consists mostly of -large-leafed oaks, chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees; the soil is -partly limestone, and partly clay. In the neighbourhood of Bethlehem, -the soil is mostly limestone; there are a great many rocks, and you -observe here the earth often crumbled, as is the case in calcarious -mountains. The inhabitants are mostly descendants of Germans, emigrants -from Wirtemberg, who still retain their language, although in an -imperfect state. They print here for the country people, newspapers and -sheet almanacs, in American German. The difference is already -perceptible in the state of Pennsylvania which exists between the -southern and northern states in the education of the lower classes: -it is said to be still more striking in the southern states. They -particularly complain that the former German farmers did not send their -children to school at all; lately, however, they have become more -ambitious, and attend the schools, because the legislature of -Pennsylvania has passed a law, that no citizen shall sit on a jury -unless he can read and write the English language. The German farmers -consider it an honour to be called upon a jury, but find themselves -deprived of that honour on account of their ignorance. They now, -therefore, have their sons instructed in English. I saw in the woods two -small octagonal houses, and was informed that they were schools, which, -however, were never frequented. - -In many villages where you see handsome brick buildings, stables, and -barns, the school is a simple log-house, much worse than the -school-houses I have seen among the Indians. There is no want of -churches, mostly Lutheran, some Calvinist, Quaker meeting-houses, -Anabaptists, and Menonists. Between Quakertown and Bethlehem, the former -called so on account of its having been originally settled by that sect, -but now inhabited mostly by Germans, there is a parish of Swiss -Menonists, which they call here Dunkards, because the men let their -beards grow. As we passed through, there happened to be the funeral of a -young girl, and almost the whole congregation followed the coffin. -Between four and five o'clock, P. M. we reached Bethlehem, and staid in -Bishop's tavern, which was very cleanly, and well managed. - -Bethlehem is very handsomely situated, partly in a valley, and partly on -a hill near the river Lehigh, into which empties the Manokesy brook. -Very near the town there is a wooden bridge over the river, which was -built in the year 1791, and rests upon three stone pillars, and over the -brook there is a newly-built stone bridge of two arches. The moment you -behold Bethlehem, you are pleased with it: opposite the town, on the -right bank of the Lehigh, are rather high mountains, overgrown with -wood. The brick houses of the town are situated amphitheatrically; above -all the houses, you see the church with a small steeple, and the whole -is crowned by the burying-place, which lies upon a hill, and is planted -with lombardy poplars. The fields around the town are excellently -cultivated, and the landscape is bounded by the Blue Mountains, eighteen -miles distant, a long range of mountains with no one distinct summit, -but with some openings through. The streets in Bethlehem are not paved, -but planted with poplars, and provided with broad brick side-walks; the -houses are built either of blue limestone or of brick. The greatest -building in this town, which formerly served as the house for the -brethren, is now occupied as a young ladies boarding-school. There is -also here an arched market-place, where butcher's meat is sold. On the -place where Bishop's tavern now stands, not long ago stood a little -frame building, which was built at the time Bethlehem was founded by -Count Zinzendorf. The town has about seven hundred inhabitants, mostly -tradesmen and merchants. The clergy consists of Bishop Huffel and the -two preachers, Messrs. Seidel and Von Schweinitz; the latter is the -great grandson of Count Zinzendorf, he was just absent on a voyage to -Germany, where he met the general synod in Herrenhut. - -One of the Messrs. Rice introduced me into the tavern, and gave notice -to the clergy of my arrival; shortly after, I received a visit from Mr. -Seidel, a Saxon by birth, who has resided nineteen years in the United -States. I found him a very friendly and pleasant gentleman, and had a -long conversation with him. I also met with an old man from Eisenach, -by the name of Stickel, who came to this country as a surgeon with the -Hessians, and for some years past had taken up his residence in this -tavern, where he acts as cicerone to the strangers. - -Next morning I received another visit from parson Seidel, and went with -him to Bishop Huffel; the bishop is a man of about sixty years of age, -also a Saxon, and a very friendly man, who has travelled much and speaks -pleasantly. He had a very handsome collection of minerals, particularly -of American marbles; Mr. Seidel resides with him in the oldest dwelling -of the town, which has quite the appearance of the house of a country -parson in Germany, and has even German locks and bolts to it; in this -house is a large hall, which formerly served the parish as a church -until the church was finished. I visited the church, escorted by the two -divines; the arrangements are quite simple, a white hall with benches, -and a somewhat higher seat for the clergy, with a table before it; the -church has a very fine organ, which was made at New York. The bishop, -who is a good performer on the piano, had the goodness to play for me on -the organ. From the steeple of the church is a handsome prospect of the -surrounding neighbourhood, the Lehigh, the mountains of the same name, -and the Blue Mountains. In the church building, next to the large hall, -are several chambers, where they formerly kept school, before the new -school was built, but now the elders hold their conferences in it, and -the smaller meetings of the parish. By building this new church, the -parish incurred a debt; the building, however, is not very tasty. The -burying place of the congregation is upon a small hill, and resembles a -garden planted with trees. The graves are in rows, a simple stone lying -on each, containing the name, birth, and time of death of the departed. -This morning I observed by a circular notice, the death of a young lad -who died last evening; in order to give notice of his death, they played -with trumpets the tunes of three hymns from the steeple, early in the -morning; certainly a very simple and touching ceremony! The corpse is -put in the corpse-house, and the burying takes place in presence of the -whole parish. Not far from the burying place, upon an elevated spot, is -a cistern, in which by means of a forcing machine, the water is carried -from the brook, and thence all the houses and streets are supplied with -water. - -After that we went to the dwelling of the sisterhood; all the old maids, -and some younger ones of the parish, who have no parents, live together. -Heretofore, all the unmarried women were obliged to live in the -sister-house; but this has been changed since, and those who have -parents, live with their families. Those sisters who live together, have -either each a separate room, or several have a sitting room together. -They support themselves by selling female utensils, which they -manufacture. There is no house for the brotherhood, because young -industrious labourers in this happy land, where there are no taxes, can -support themselves very well. The ground on which the houses stand, -belongs to the parish, and every man, who wishes to build here, has to -pay a certain ground rent. There is, however, here no community of -goods; every one has to work for, and to support himself, and the parish -only assists him when he has become poor by misfortune. - -After this interesting ramble I visited Mr. Rice, who is a merchant, -owner of a mill, and is particularly engaged in the flour business; -he also keeps a store, where every article is to be found, which the -country people are in need of; from cloth, and fine linen, down to -common wagon-screws. After that, I dined at home in the lively company -of six young ladies from Providence, who also came to finish their -education here in the boarding-school; as in Germany, the brothers have -boarding-schools, where children, whose parents do not belong to the -society, are carefully educated. The female school is at Bethlehem, and -the male school in Nazareth. - -After dinner I took a ride with Dr. Stickel, in order to examine a new -lock, lately established on the river Lehigh. Within a few years they -have opened important coal works, about thirty miles from this place, -at Mauch Chunk, on the other side of the Blue Mountains; these mines -furnish Philadelphia and the neighbourhood with the well-known Lehigh -coals, which are much better than the English coals. These coals were -formerly shipped in light boats near the pit, and floated down the -Lehigh into the Delaware to Philadelphia, and the boats were then broke -to pieces and sold, on account of the falls and strong current of the -Lehigh, which prevented their return. As even the navigation down the -river was frequently obstructed on account of low water, and incumbered -with difficulties, the company owning the mines, made a dam in the -river, through which canals pass with locks, by means of which they have -improved the navigation. - -In the vicinity of the Lehigh, there are many limestone rocks; these -they explode, partly for the purpose of having heavy stones, which are -thrown on the dams, partly for burning them to lime. The burned lime is -not only used for building, but also as manure for the fields. - -We returned from the locks to Bethlehem by another road; on account of -their distance from the coal pits, these locks are called the -thirty-seven mile locks. We passed through a well cultivated valley, -wherein is situated a place called Butstown, settled by Germans, and -consisting of a few neat brick buildings. Thence the road passed through -an oak-wood, which appeared to be in very good order, and belonged to -the brotherhood. In the evening I went with Mr. Seidel to a concert, -which the amateurs of the town gave. In the town-school is a room -appropriated for these concerts, which take place weekly. The orchestra -consisted of eleven musicians, all of whom were mechanics of Bethlehem, -who very successfully practiced this art as amateurs. The greatest part -of the religious service of the brotherhood consists of music; for this -reason music constitutes a principal part of their education. The music -was fine beyond all expectation; I heard very good male and female -singers; amongst others were Mr. Seidel and one of the young female -ushers of the boarding-school, Miss Humphreys. Finally, the good Bishop -Huffel had the politeness to amuse us, to our great gratification, by -performing fancy pieces of his own on the piano. After the concert I -remained a few hours with Mr. Seidel, his wife is a German by birth; -moreover, I made acquaintance with a preacher, Mr. Frueauf, a native of -Dietendorf, near Gotha; he married a sister of Mr. Von Schweinitz, and -lives on his income; I found in him a friendly old gentleman, who was -rejoiced to meet a countryman. Moreover it was no trifling gratification -to me, to have conversed this whole day in German, and to hear that -language spoken in purity, which is hardly ever the case in other parts -of America. - -On the third day of my stay at Bethlehem, Mr. Frueauf called for me, for -the purpose of riding with me to the brotherhood of Nazareth, which is -ten miles distant. The road passes partly through a well kept wood, and -partly through a well cultivated country. A great many single farms, -which we passed, showed the wealth of their owners. One of the places we -passed, is called Hecktown; this name originated from a waggery of Mr. -Frueauf, on account of the fruitfulness of the inhabitants, who increase -and multiply very fast. Nazareth is also very well built, and resembles -Bethlehem, only it is, if it be possible, still more quiet. The town was -laid out in the year 1744, and the large brick building, which is now -used as the boys boarding-school, was originally intended for the -mansion of Count Zinzendorf. This district has about five hundred -inhabitants, including the adjoining parish called Schoeneck, they are -mostly mechanics and farmers. There were two clergymen, Mr. Van Vleck, -son of the ex-bishop of Bethlehem, and Mr. Ronthal, a native German, who -was long pastor of the parish of Sarepta in Russia. - -We first visited Mr. Van Vleck, and then inspected the society's garden; -it is situated on the slope of a hill and has some pavilions and -handsome promenades. Then we went in the boarding school, in which sixty -boys receive their education; forty board in the house, and twenty -reside with their parents, in the village. This school is likewise for -children of different denominations, and is generally praised. -Immediately on my entrance, I remarked the great cleanliness of the -house. The scholars are divided into four classes, and are not received -till they are eight years old. The tutors are mostly Germans, or at -least speak that language, which is taught to the boys by particular -desire of their parents. The school possesses a good cabinet of natural -history, which is kept in good order, and has a collection of eggs of -various birds of the neighbourhood, gathered by the scholars. The -scholars sleep in common in two great halls, two superintendents sleep -in each of them. They eat in common and take a long daily walk, under -the guardianship of their tutors. Besides the common school rudiments, -the French, German, and English languages, they are taught drawing, -music, and Italian book-keeping by double entry. For instruction in -music, every class has a piano: a particular room is destined for -religious worship. The boys have all healthy, lively, and open -countenances, and are kept very clean. In the building there is also a -theological seminary for young men who are designed for the pulpit; -there were five pupils studying. These students are obliged to finish -their education in the large theological seminary of Gnadenfeld in Upper -Silesia. On the top of the house there is a gallery, from which you see -the surrounding neighbourhood. Nazareth is situated on rather high -ground, and is only eight miles distant from the Blue Mountains. The -vicinity would be very handsome, if there were more streams in the -neighbourhood, but in these it seems to be deficient. - -After this we went to the sisterhood's house, wherein were lodged -thirty-seven old women, who sleep all in one large hall. In the room -where they perform worship, there is a small organ, as in the sisterhood -at Bethlehem; one of the sisters acts as organist. I observed here, as -well as in Bethlehem, that the old Moravian female costume, particularly -the caps, have gone out of fashion, except some few very old women, and -they now dress in handsome modern style. We visited the parson, Mr. -Ronthal, and the elder of the congregation, Mr. Hoeber. I became -acquainted with a former missionary, Mr. Oppelt, who was many years -amongst the Indians, one hundred miles the other side of Detroit, and -has baptized several of them. He has retired to Nazareth, and was busy -in making preparations of birds. - -On our return to Bethlehem, we went rather roundabout, in order to see a -large farm, which is distinguished in the country on account of its good -management; it is occupied by a native of Nassau, Mr. Schlabach. His -fields are indeed in an excellent situation, as well as all his barns -and farm houses. This proprietor, who is now so wealthy, came over a -redemptioner, and owes his present wealth to his industry and frugality. - -After dinner I went with Mr. Seidel, who is the guardian, to the great -female boarding-school. In the office where the small domestic library -is kept, which not only consists of religious books, but also belles -lettres, voyages and travels, I met the venerable Bishop Huffel, who -accompanied me, with Mr. Seidel, during my inspection of the school. In -this school we found about one hundred handsome young ladies, between -the ages of eight and eighteen years, who are carefully educated, and -who, besides the common school education, are instructed in drawing, -music, and all female accomplishments. They make very fine embroidery -and tapestry, and also handsome artificial flowers. They are divided -into four classes; in every class-room was a piano. I was informed that -they performed their morning and evening devotions by chanting. After -dinner they receive no other instructions but music and female -accomplishments; the latter part of the day is employed in walking in -the large garden, which lies in a vale behind the house. They have also -a hall for prayers, in which stands a piano, and which is often made use -of as a concert room. They sleep in large halls, with the -superintendents, and the girls have a very good appearance. The custom -which prevails in European boarding-schools, of dressing all the girls -in uniform, and distinguishing different classes by different ribands, -does not take place here; every girl dresses as she pleases. The -scholars are from all parts of the United States, even some from -Alabama. - -After having examined this interesting establishment, I walked with the -bishop and Mr. Seidel on the banks of the brook, in order to examine -some works that are situated on the waterside. The first was the work -which forces the water into the cistern, as above-mentioned. By a -conductor from the brook, a water-wheel is set in motion; this wheel -works two pumps, which force the water into iron pipes leading into the -cistern. Not far from this work lives a currier by the name of Mr. -Leipert, who manufactures leather and morocco: in this establishment the -principal machinery is also moved by water. They have two ways here of -raising water, one is by boxes fastened on a large wheel, these boxes -fill themselves with water, when they are below, and throw it into a -gutter, when they come up; the other is by a common pump. - -At last my companions introduced me to a gentleman, who, with trouble -and expense, had established a cabinet of ancient and other coins. This -collection was indeed extensive and valuable, recollecting that it was -in America. - -I spent the evening very pleasantly in the young ladies school; all the -girls were assembled, and gave a musical entertainment, mostly songs -composed for several voices. But as the girls have to retire early, the -entertainment, for which I was indebted to the politeness of Mr. Seidel, -was soon ended. I remained a short time with Mr. Seidel, I then took my -leave of this worthy man, of the venerable Bishop Huffel, and the polite -Mr. Frueauf, with the intention of returning next spring, God willing, -to this lovely spot, with which I was so much delighted. In going home, -I heard the young ladies sing their evening hymn, and received a very -pretty serenade from twenty young folks of the place, who, although they -belong to the brotherhood, serve as the musical band of the militia. -I could not leave this peaceable and quiet Bethlehem without being -affected, whose inhabitants all live united like one family, in -brotherly and sisterly love, and seem all to have the same habits, -acquired by the same education and continued sociability. I returned -with the stage on the same bad road to Philadelphia by which I left it, -but better enjoyed the view of this beautiful, well cultivated and -thickly peopled country. The last part of the road was particularly -interesting to me. In the flourishing villages of Germantown and -Nicetown there are handsome gardens and country-seats of Philadelphians. -In the vicinity of Whitemarsh, I observed the remains of General -Washington's entrenchments. Germantown, originally settled by Germans, -forms only one street, which is above three miles long. During the time -when the English occupied Philadelphia and its vicinity, General -Washington fell upon the English that were in and about Germantown. One -battalion of the British threw themselves into a stone house, and -defended themselves in it until the British army could rally again, and -drive the Americans back. The house is situated in a garden, about one -hundred paces from the road; near the house, in the street, is a well -which supplies the house with water; to keep possession of the well was -of great consequence to the British, and in its vicinity many men are -said to have lost their lives. - -On the ensuing morning I went with Mr. Halbach to Mr. Vaux, in order to -visit under his guidance some other public institutions. At Mr. Vaux's -we met several of the public characters of the city, with whom I had -conversations on various subjects of public utility, such as schools, -punishments, &c. Then we went into a Lancasterian free school, where -five hundred lads are instructed, and several hundred girls of the lower -classes. We did not see the girls; it was Saturday, which is a holiday. -The boys are of various ages, and are divided into eight classes, under -the inspection of one teacher and several monitors. They obey their -instructors by signals, all their motions are made according to these -signals, and they give their answers with the greatest precision. They -exercise their memory by reciting pieces of poetry, and making mental -calculations. They write well and all alike; they also receive -instruction in geography; one of the boys had drawn a good and correct -sketch of Thuringia. They ought to pay more attention to the dress of -the children, for some of them were in rags. The school is supported by -the city, and is under the direction of Quakers. - -Of the courts of justice I will say nothing; they are entirely formed -after the English model. The common law of England is so well known, and -so many huge volumes written upon it, that I need say nothing on the -subject. - -The state prison, which, about fifty years ago, was built for a county -jail, contained ad interim those prisoners which are intended for the -new penitentiary. For this reason this prison is overfilled with five -hundred prisoners; they were not sufficiently watched, and therefore -often riotous. Through a misdirected philanthropy of the Quakers, who -have also the direction of this prison, there are no guards on the -walls, nor in the passages, and but five overseers go continually -amongst the labouring prisoners, and their lives are often exposed. The -inspector of the house, Mr. Swift, seemed no way to favour this system, -which not only does not improve the morals of the convicts, but also -seems to threaten public security. At this time there was a bad feeling -among the prisoners, and they daily expected a riot. The Quakers -themselves, in spite of their philanthropy, seemed to have no great -confidence in the prisoners. In our walk through the prison with Mr. -Vaux, it was evident from his countenance that he felt uneasy, and as -the prisoners were assembled on the large stairs at twelve o'clock, -to go to their dinner, he ensconced himself behind the iron grate. - -The female prisoners occupy one of the wings of the prison, and are -employed in spinning, sewing, knitting and pulling horse-hair, platting -straw, and washing. They sit in long warmed corridors, adjoining to the -doors of their bed-rooms; ten and more sleep in one room, on horse-hair -mattresses with blankets. There are also cells for solitary confinement -established for them; in one of them, four weeks since, a handsome girl -was confined that had been condemned for stealing, and affected to be a -simpleton, deaf and dumb, but during her solitary confinement she began -to speak sensibly, and with good understanding. The male prisoners -inhabit the other wing, and have the whole yard to themselves, where -there are several workshops. Most of the prisoners were busy in the yard -sawing marble, others weave, are tailors, shoemakers, &c. and there are -several good cabinet-makers, who make very fine furniture for the stores -in the city. All hands are busy: the invalids are mostly employed in -pulling horse-hair. In the bake-house of the institution they bake very -good brown bread, and each prisoner receives daily one pound and a half. -The prisoners have a long subterraneous room for an eating hall, which -is lighted with lamps, and receive daily good broth, fresh meat, and -potatoes. They certainly live much better than many an honest man who -has to maintain his family by his industry. A weaver was confined in the -solitary cells, who, in a moment of impatience, had cut through his -thread with a knife, because it was entangled. In each wing there is a -separate nursery for the patients of both sexes. In spite of the great -number of prisoners, great cleanliness is maintained. - -His excellency, John Quincy Adams, President of the United States, had -just returned from a visit to his aged and venerable father near Boston, -and took the room next to mine in the Mansion-house. He had been invited -to the Wistar-Party on the 22d of October, at the house of Colonel -Biddle, and accepted the invitation to the gratification of all the -members. I also visited the party. The President is a man about sixty -years old, of rather short stature, with a bald head, and of a very -plain and worthy appearance. He speaks little, but what he does speak is -to the purpose. I must confess that I seldom in my life felt so true and -sincere a reverence as at the moment when this honourable gentleman whom -eleven millions of people have thought worthy to elect as their chief -magistrate, shook hands with me. He made many inquiries after his -friends at Ghent, and particularly after the family of Mr. Meulemeester. -Unfortunately I could not long converse with him, because every member -of the party had greater claims than myself. At the same time I made -several other new and interesting acquaintances, among others with a -Quaker, Mr. Wood, who had undertaken a tour through England, France, -Germany, Denmark, Sweden and Russia, mostly with the philanthropic view -of examining the prison discipline of those countries. I was much -gratified with his instructive conversation, although I had some -controversy with him on the prison discipline, as he heard that I did -not agree with his views relative to the new penitentiary, of which he -was one of the most active promoters. Mr. Livingston, who has effected -the abolition of capital punishment in the state of Louisiana, was here -lauded to the skies by the philanthropists. God send it success! - -On the following day I paid my respects to the President, and gave him -the medals which Mr. Cornelissen at Ghent had confided to my care. One -silver medal was from the Botanic Society of Ghent, with an appropriate -inscription for the President; the other a bronze medal, which had been -struck in the year 1823, in honour of the Haerlem jubilee on the -discovery of the art of printing; both were sunk by the skilful artist -Mr. Braemt, at Brussels. In the evening I saw the President again, who -honoured with his presence a party at Mr. Walsh's. I had first the -intention of leaving here to-day with the steam-boat for Baltimore, but -the arrival of the President changed my resolution, as I wished to -attend with him the anniversary, which was to be celebrated on the 24th -of October, and then to travel in his company to Baltimore. - -In order to celebrate the day on which William Penn landed in the year -1683 in America, which was the origin of the state of Pennsylvania, -those who respect his memory have established a society, which -celebrates the 24th of October as a public festival. At this time the -celebration consisted of a public oration in the University and a public -dinner. Mr. Vaux called for me at twelve o'clock to go to the oration. -The building of the University of Pennsylvania was originally intended -as a dwelling for President Washington, who declined the present, and it -was then used for the University. A great number of people had collected -in one of the lecture rooms; they seated me within the tribune whence -the orator was to speak; the President, who entered soon after me, was -led to the same place, and received with loud and warm acclamations. The -oration was delivered by a lawyer, Mr. Charles Ingersoll; it contained -rather a statistic account of the state of Pennsylvania than of the -landing of William Penn; this the Quakers did not like, although the -oration was well conceived and generally admired. The orator mentioned a -particular fact, which, as far as I know, is unknown in Europe, viz. -William Penn mentions in one of his writings, of which I had already -seen the original in the library of the Philosophical Society, shown to -me by Mr. Vaughan, that by an act of Charles II. this land was given to -William Penn, and his Majesty, in honour of Penn's father, Admiral Penn, -called it Pennsylvania; he, William Penn, had proposed the name of New -Wales, but the king did not sanction this name; Penn then offered to the -secretary of the king twenty guineas, if he would persuade the king to -call the country merely Sylvania; but even this proposition did not -succeed; the name of Pennsylvania was very unpleasant to him; for they -would think it great vanity in him, although he was very far from being -vain. In his observations concerning the manufactures of Pennsylvania, -the orator went now and then too far. He said, for instance, that -nowhere, not even in Europe, are better carriages made than in -Philadelphia, although the carriages of this place are not the very best -nor the most convenient. The school establishments, however, he pointed -out in a too indifferent light, and confessed complainingly that in the -northern states they were farther advanced than here; he particularly -observed that the University of Pennsylvania was in a poor condition. He -also complained of the dissipation of the lower classes. This oration -was much applauded; the audience likewise exhibited their respect to the -President as he retired. - -I sat next to Judge Peters, a venerable gentleman of eighty-two years of -age, who was secretary of war during the revolution; moreover, I was -introduced here to Mr. Washington, nephew of the hero, and Judge in the -Supreme Court of the United States. He is the heir of his uncle, and -possessor of Mount Vernon, where his ashes rest. After the oration I -inspected the anatomical cabinet of the University; it is not a rich -collection, but has some interesting articles, viz. two wax figures of -full size, which can be taken to pieces; also a collection of human -skulls, among which I remarked particularly the flattened skulls of two -Peruvian Indians, and also a skeleton of a Creek Indian; many samples of -fractured and badly cured human bones, and many curious bones; parts of -the human body, injected or preserved in alcohol, &c. - -At four o'clock, P. M. I drove with Mr. Vaux to the Masonic Hall, where -the dinner was to be given. About seventy persons, mostly gentlemen of -my acquaintance, were present. The President of the United States sat on -the right of Judge Peters, who was president of the dinner, and sat in -William Penn's chair; I sat on the left of this worthy old gentleman, -and on my left was the orator of the day, Mr. Ingersoll. Behind Judge -Peters's chair was William Penn's portrait, painted in oil, and under -that was a copperplate of his well known treaty with the Indians. The -vice-president of the table was Mr. Duponceau, a Frenchman who has -resided in this country forty-seven years, and during the revolution was -adjutant to Baron Steuben; he is a lawyer, and pleads very well in the -English language. This gentleman possesses a rare talent for languages, -and has a particular fondness for the German. Goethe's Faust is his -favourite work, and as I agreed with his taste, we entertained ourselves -for a long time with Faust, alternately reciting our favourite passages. -The first health that was drank, was naturally that of the President of -the United States; his excellency rose, and in a short speech thanked -them heartily; as my health was drank, I also rose, excused my imperfect -knowledge of the English, and begged permission to thank them in the -French language, wherein I could express myself better and more -fluently. I then spoke a few words from the bottom of my heart, -expressing the sincere interest I take in the happiness and welfare of -this country; I congratulated the society on the pious feelings with -which they celebrate the memory of their ancestors, and particularly of -that excellent man who laid the foundation of this great community; -these would be the best security for their future prosperity. -I expressed my gladness at being present on this occasion, to witness -their animated sentiments, thanked them, feeling fully for the kind -reception I had met with, and told them that this festival, which was -still more valuable on account of the presence of the chief magistrate -of this great nation, would never fade from my memory, and that I hoped -to leave behind me friends in the new world when I should have returned -to the old. I concluded with wishes of blessings and happiness. It -appeared to me that my plain address was not unkindly received. The -president retired at eight o'clock, and I remained until ten. Among the -commonly called volunteer toasts, the following were drank: "Weimar, the -native country of letters!" I rose and said, that to this toast I could -only answer by a modest silence, as it was worthy to be answered by a -learned man from Weimar, and unfortunately I could not pretend to be -one. When young, I had left home for a military school, to run my career -in the chances of war, so that the sciences did not enter my door. -I therefore, gave them in reply, the following toast: "Pennsylvania, the -asylum of unfortunate Germans!" This toast was received with great -applause. The venerable Judge Peters[I-26] sung a song, which he -composed the preceding evening, with a great deal of vivacity, and every -one was merry and lively. - - [Footnote I-26: [Recently deceased.]--TRANS.] - -The society have their laws written on parchment, bound in a very -elegant volume. This book was placed before the president and myself, to -sign; we signed it, and by this means became honorary members of this -respectable society. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - _Baltimore._ - - -On the 25th of October, I made several farewell visits, and went on -board the steam-boat Baltimore at twelve o'clock, to leave the dear -Philadelphia to which I had become so much attached. Mr. Tromp had set -out several days before, to meet the Pallas at Norfolk. The President of -the United States came on board of the steam-boat soon after, in company -of several gentlemen from town. At the steam-boat wharf, a crowd of -citizens had assembled once more to see the respected chief of their -government, who is justly venerated by all intelligent men. When the -boat started, the crowd, consisting of well-dressed individuals, cheered -the president, who remained a long time uncovered. We descended the -Delaware about forty miles. This river becomes very large; the shores -are flat, and apparently well cultivated. The president had the kindness -to converse a long time with me. - -I was here introduced to a Mr. Sullivan, from Boston, who seemed to be -much esteemed by the president, and Captain Maclean of the garrison of -Halifax, who was travelling for his pleasure. - -I also met with Mr. De Salazar, ambassador from Colombia, with his -secretary, Mr. Gomes, and the Mexican consul, Mr. Obregon: I had already -made the acquaintance of these gentlemen in New York. Their interesting -conversation, and the moderation of their views gave me much pleasure. - -We arrived at New Castle between four and five o'clock; this is a -well-built little town, situated on the right shore of the river, in the -state of Delaware, whence it is sixteen miles to Frenchtown by land, -where the Chesapeake steam-boats receive the passengers. - -The president being in one of the stages, the drivers went on more -rapidly than customary. The road was in general sandy, and ran through -woods; we did not perceive any villages, as it soon became dark, and the -interesting conversation respecting the scenery ceased. Frenchtown is a -little place, which was burnt and plundered during the last war, by the -British Admiral Cockburn. We went on board the steam-boat Constitution. -This boat was very spacious, and furnished with beds, the machinery, -however, made a great noise, and produced a jarring motion. - -The night was beautiful; the moonlight and the woody shores of the -river, produced a very fine effect. I remained a long time on deck in -conversation with Captain Maclean; no rest could be obtained in bed, as, -in addition to the noise of the machinery, six horses trampled just -above me on deck, and a German mechanic, who was unable to sleep, talked -to himself, near me. We arrived very early next morning at Baltimore. -After our arrival, the president took a carriage for Washington, which -is only thirty-six miles distant. The greater part of the travellers -remained in bed until between six and seven o'clock. I went through the -somewhat solitary but regular streets to the hotel, called the Indian -Queen, where lodgings had been prepared for me. Here I had the pleasure -to meet Sir Michael Clare and his lady; shortly after my arrival, -I received the visit of Mr. Huygens, son to the Chevalier Bangemann -Huygens, ambassador from the Netherlands, at Washington, officer of our -artillery, and attached to the legation. His father had the politeness -to place this young gentleman at my disposal. As soon as I was -established in the hotel, I went out in company with Sir Michael, in -order to see the curiosities of the city. The town is of a regular -construction, and contains, as I was assured, seventy-five thousand -inhabitants. Great projects are formed for increasing its prosperity; -these projects, however, have been somewhat stopped by some considerable -failures. This place has increased with almost incredible rapidity; in -the year 1752, there were only ten houses. The streets are wide, with -foot-walks, some of them are planted as in Philadelphia, with poplar -trees. The city seems tolerably animated; I saw a very great number of -negroes in the streets. The state of Maryland is the first on which I -set my foot where the slavery of negroes is legally maintained. Farther -to the south, this state of things is every where common. I merely -mention the fact; it does not belong to me to give opinions on so -delicate a subject. Still my journey convinced me of the truth of the -old observation, that inaccurate judgments are easily formed respecting -things not sufficiently known, which we have neither seen nor examined -ourselves. We first visited the Washington Monument, situated on a hill. -It is, or rather will be, erected by the state of Maryland; it consists -of a column of white marble one hundred and sixty feet high, it is to be -adorned with bas-reliefs of bronze, representing scenes from the life of -the hero. On the top of the column is to be placed the colossal statue -of this great man. But the requisite funds are wanting; and therefore -these ornaments are not yet finished. We ascended the column by a spiral -staircase of two hundred and twenty-six steps, but did not enjoy a fine -prospect, on account of the misty atmosphere. We visited another -monument, erected to the memory of the citizens who fell in the defence -of Baltimore on the 12th of September, 1814. On a pedestal stands a -column representing a bundle of staves. The names of the fallen citizens -are inscribed on the ribands which unite them. On the top is the statue -of victory; at the four corners of the pedestal, griffins. We remarked -several fine public buildings, among which, some churches were very -distinguished. The handsomest is the Catholic cathedral, the dome of -which, is similar to that of the Roman pantheon. The interior of this -church is richly ornamented, and contains several fine paintings, the -greater part of which, arrived during the French revolution. The -handsomest among them is a descent from the cross, by Gulein, in Paris, -which, according to an inscription, was presented to the church by Louis -XVIII. at the request of Count Menou. It is to be regretted that its -size does not permit it to be placed over the altar. It was suspended -near the entrance. King Charles X. is said to have promised the -companion to this piece. I was introduced in the church to the -archbishop of Baltimore, M. Maréchal,[I-27] who is the Catholic primate -of the United States. He is a native of France, and has resided in the -United States since 1792, whither he first came as a missionary. He is -spoken of as a man of much spirit and activity. His exterior is of great -simplicity; he is of small stature, and animated. When he first -addressed me, with his book under his arm, I took him for a French -teacher, but he very soon presented himself to me as the archbishop. - - [Footnote I-27: [Since deceased.]--TRANS.] - -The state of Maryland contains the greatest number of Catholics, with -the exception of the state of Louisiana and Florida, where the -Catholics, on account of their wealth have some influence. Not far -distant from the cathedral is the Unitarian church, tastefully -ornamented on the exterior with columns, and surmounted by a dome. The -English Episcopal church is likewise not far distant; it has a colonade -at the entrance, but a spire without the least taste. The front of the -church is ornamented with two statues, of the Saviour and Moses, by an -Italian sculptor, (still living here,) Mr. Capellano. It is reported -that the inhabitants of Baltimore being very much scandalized at the -horns of Moses, the artist was obliged to take them off. Certain it is, -that the Moses on this church does not wear these ornaments. We saw -another building of recent construction, called the Athenæum, which was -built by subscription. We found there a small library and reading room -for American and English newspapers, and a concert room. Finally, we -went to a large building called the Exchange. A few hours after this -promenade, Sir Michael and Lady Clare set out for Now York, whence they -intended to embark for Jamaica. To them I was indebted for an -introduction to Dr. Macauley, a respectable physician, whose -acquaintance was the more agreeable to me, as I found him to be an -accomplished man. In his company I rode to Fort M'Henry; this fort is -situated two miles from Baltimore, at the latter extremity of the -isthmus formed by the eastern and western arms of the Patapsco, which -empties into the Chesapeake Bay. This fort was rendered interesting by -the repulse of an attack made by the British the 12th of September, -1814, by water; this well-sustained defence contributed much to the -safety of Baltimore. The English disembarked their troops on the eastern -shore of the Patapsco--these were to attack the city by land, meanwhile -the fleet was to bombard, and to take Fort M'Henry. The landed troops, -whose general, Ross, was killed, met with such resistance from the -citizens that they were compelled to retire with considerable loss; the -attack on Fort M'Henry had no better success. The English bomb-ships -were anchored too far from the fort to allow the shells to do much -mischief. Not being able to obtain any advantage from this side, they -embarked troops in boats the following night, which, by aid of the -darkness, passed the fort, and entered the western branch of the -Patapsco. But they were discovered in time, and repelled by the -batteries situated above the fort. The fort itself is very small, and -ill-shaped; a pentagon with five little bastions, where at most but -three large guns can be mounted; in front of the entrance is a little -ravelin which defends nothing. There is no counterscarp; the ramparts -are sodded. The fort is separated from the land by a wall, which might -rather prove injurious than advantageous. Near the water's edge there is -a battery which can contain more than fifty guns for firing over the -beach. There are also some furnaces for heating cannon balls. It was -this battery which offered the greatest resistance to the British. It -contained heavy guns formerly belonging to a French man of war, which -were served by American sailors. One thousand five hundred men stood in -this narrow space, without a single bomb-proof building in the fort, not -even the powder-magazine, and notwithstanding, not more than thirty men -were killed and wounded. Since that time, the engineers have erected -bomb-proofs on each side of the gate, as well as a bomb-proof -powder-magazine, and a bomb-proof roof over the pump. The fort is in a -decayed condition, and is to be abandoned on account of its unimportant -situation. The engineers intend to construct new fortifications several -miles farther off in the Chesapeake Bay. Moreover, the situation of this -fort is so unhealthy that the garrison leave it during the summer. From -this spot there is a fine view of both branches of the Patapsco, on -whose shores the trees in their autumnal dress of variegated leaves -presented a very handsome appearance. On returning, we ascended one of -the hills commanding the city, where we enjoyed a beautiful prospect. An -observatory situated here, announces the arrival of ships in the bay by -signals. - -Dr. Macauley showed me the medical college, constructed at the expense -of the state of Maryland, a spacious and handsome building, decorated -with a portico. It contains an amphitheatre, sky-lighted rotunda for -anatomical lectures, a semi-amphitheatre for chemical lectures, to which -are joined a laboratory and a cabinet with philosophical apparatus. The -anatomical cabinet did not appear to be very rich, as the school is yet -in its infancy. I remarked a female wax figure representing a rupture of -the uterus, and several human embrios, abortions, and monsters. I saw -likewise a considerable collection of minerals, among which I saluted as -an old acquaintance, a basaltic column from the giant's causeway in -Ireland. Seven professors lecture in the medical college; the lectures -are delivered during four months, from November to the end of February. -Near to the college is an infirmary belonging to this institution, where -the sick are nursed by an order of religious women called sisters of -charity. - -The Baltimore Museum was established by the second son of the same -artist, C. W. Peale, who founded the Philadelphia Museum. His sons were -destined from their cradle to become artists, as their Christian names -are Rafaelle, Rubens, Titian, &c. One of the saloons of the museum is -occupied by the paintings of Rembrandt Peale. He succeeds very well in -some of his copies; for instance, King Lear braving the tempest, from -West; perhaps he is less successful in his originals, especially in his -full length equestrian portrait of Napoleon. Several paintings in -miniature, by Miss Peale, niece of C. W. Peale, are tolerably good. - -The museum is not so extensive as that of Philadelphia; still it -contains some very interesting objects, which however, I had not time to -examine sufficiently in detail. The museum is arranged in two stories of -the buildings; the first contains various quadrupeds and birds, -I perceived a specimen of the duck-bill animal from New South Wales. The -birds are all indigenous, and are described in Wilson's Ornithology. The -collection of American insects and butterflies is very handsome; among -them are several centipedes, large scorpions, and the mammoth spider -from South America, which kills the humming bird. These insects are well -preserved in frames of white plaster. The plaster is cast on moulds, the -insect is put into the cavity, and fastened by pins stuck in the plaster -while it is sufficiently hot to destroy the moths which may have entered -the cavity; finally, they are hermetically secured beneath watch -crystals. There is also a handsome collection of Indian antiquities, -weapons and other objects; among these arms were a great number of -arrow-heads of flint, such as I had seen among the Tuscaroras; farther, -a great number of toys, and other trifles; a skeleton of the mastodon, -but not so complete as the one in Philadelphia, forms part of this -museum; the large teeth are missing, but the lower jaw bone[I-28] is -particularly well preserved; two weeks previous to my visit it had -fallen down along with the chain by which it had been suspended from the -ceiling, and had broken in two. - - [Footnote I-28: [This is the only perfect lower jaw of the - mastodon _ever_ found, and the lover of Natural History must - regret the extreme carelessness of the proprietor or - superintendent of the Baltimore Museum, which has allowed so - valuable a specimen to be mutilated. The London Medical Society - was once in treaty for this jaw bone, at the price of three - hundred guineas.]--TRANS.] - -There is also here, a very handsome collection of minerals. It is to be -regretted that so many rare things are not better arranged, and -separated from mere trifles. The city library was founded by -subscription; it contains about fifteen thousand volumes; I asked to see -Humboldt's splendid work on Mexico; the library does not contain any -thing very remarkable. Mr. Thomas, a Friend, one of the philanthropic -public characters to whom I was introduced by Mr. Vaux, of Philadelphia, -conducted me to a steam-mill, situated near the basin. It seems to me -that such a mill is well worth imitating, especially in Flanders, where -running water is so scarce. The machine which moves the wheels was made -by Bolton and Watt, of Soho, in England, and is of sixty horse-power. -This mill has eight pair of stones, of which there are commonly but four -worked at a time; most of the work, which in general is done by men, -is performed by machinery connected with the steam-engine; a long and -horizontal chest leads from the interior of the mill to the wharf, where -the vessels with grain lie; from the vessel, the wheat is poured in one -of the extremities of the chest, or rather channel, along whose whole -length a spiral screw runs, which by turning brings the grain to a large -reservoir in the mill. By another piece of machinery the wheat is -conveyed to the upper part of the house and thrown into a wire cylinder, -where it is perfectly fanned, and is thence conducted to the hoppers; -the flour falls into a common reservoir, whence it is conveyed to a -bolting machine. The fine flour passes through a trough to a place where -it is spread by a horizontally revolving rake, to be cooled; after this -it runs by a spout to the ground floor, where it is packed in oaken -barrels. A workman fills the barrel with a shovel, pushes it on an iron -ring forming part of a scale, to weigh it, underneath a wooden block, -which acted upon by a lever presses the flour into the barrel; this -block, after being sponged in the common way, is again ready for -immediate use. Two hundred barrels of superfine flour can be furnished -daily by this mill, which works night and day; twelve workmen are -sufficient to attend to all the operations. The owner said he could do -with fewer, but was unwilling to dismiss them. The engine has three -boilers, one is unemployed, to be cleaned and to be in reserve in case -of an accident; from the roof of the mill there is a fine prospect over -the city and harbour. - -Mr. Thomas, who is one of the trustees, accompanied us to the -Alms-house, nearly three miles distant from town, which was erected four -years ago, at the expense of the state of Maryland. The house consists -in a centre building, composed of the dwelling of the superintendent, -office, and store-house; farther off are two insulated wings, the one -for the men, the other for the females and children. The latter are -brought to the Alms-house by their parents, or they are the children of -disorderly parents taken up by public authority. Several of the paupers -are intrusted with the care of these unfortunate creatures; two -schoolmasters, who, by drunkenness, had been reduced to beggary, and -lived as paupers in the house, taught them to read and write. -I observed, with regret, that they were both armed with whips. The poor -sleep in large airy rooms, the sick excepted, who are in separate -infirmaries situated in the wings of the building; each one has a -separate bed. Some infirm females only were in separate apartments, -where three or four occupied one room. Each wing has three stories and -one under ground, containing the kitchen, the wash-house, and -bake-house; the bread used here is white and very good. Their meals are -excellent: four times a week they have meat, twice vegetables; and on -Fridays, as there are many Catholics, herrings. The building contains -two large court-yards, with all the shops necessary for several -mechanics, a large kitchen garden and all its dependencies of husbandry. -It is situated on an elevated ground of cleared woods, a considerable -number of acres of land appertaining to it, are cultivated by the poor. -They are employed according to their strength and capacity, particularly -in working for the house and in making their clothes. All the articles -not used by the establishment are sold. Every poor person on entering -the house, is shorn, takes a bath, and is clothed. For his clothes he -becomes a debtor to the establishment, and cannot be dismissed until he -has paid for them by his labour. The directors decide at this time if -such a person is able to make his living in an honest manner, and -resolve upon his discharge. Those who conduct themselves ill in the -house are punished by solitary confinement. If they are sick on entering -the house, two physicians, who are attached to the establishment, visit -them daily and alternately; four students, also, from the medical -college lodge in the house, and two of them are constantly present. For -lunatics there are appropriate cells on the ground-floor. - -I was twice in the Catholic Cathedral, the first time on Sunday, October -30th. The desire of hearing good music, decided me on going to this -church, and I had no occasion to repent it. At the beginning of the -service, I remained standing near the door, but being perceived, was -conducted to a pew near the altar. The archbishop was sitting on an -elevated chair, under a canopy. The music was particularly good, both in -composition and execution. There were ladies attached to the choir, and -it was a lady who played the organ. The charity sermon, by Mr. Wheeler, -on charity and on the pleasure of doing good, was very edifying. This -text had been chosen to move the hearts of the congregation, in behalf -of the Catholic poor-school. Several days after, I returned to the -Cathedral, in company with Mr. Vallenilla, (attached to the Colombian -legation, and who had lately been married here,) to see Dr. Fenwick -consecrated bishop of Boston. The church was crowded; it was with -difficulty we obtained seats in a gallery opposite to the choir. A mass, -composed by Cimarosa, was executed under the direction of Mr. H. Gilles, -in a masterly style. I do not remember to have heard such good music for -a long time. The best female voices were those of Mrs. French, Mrs. -Gilles, and Miss Olivia Donaldson, sister-in-law to Mr. Vallenilla. The -ceremony lasted very long. I remained from ten o'clock until two, P. M. -and then left the church; the service continued until three o'clock. The -archbishop himself officiated, _in pontificalibus_, with a mitre of -cloth of gold and his gilded crosier-staff. He was served by the bishops -of Charleston and Philadelphia, who wore mitres of cloth of silver. The -first, Mr. England, delivered a long sermon, with a strong Irish accent, -of which I did not understand much, except that he drew a comparison -between a republican state citizen and a good Catholic: he spoke with -much vehemence, and was very declamatory. It is said that this prelate -is one of the pillars of the Romish church, in the United States. - -I found the society very agreeable in Baltimore; at dinners every thing -was unceremonious, and the conversation very instructive and lively; the -evening parties afforded excellent music; the ladies in general are very -handsome, and sing very well. It was at one of these evening parties, -given by Mr. Henry Gilles, that I made the acquaintance of General -Bernard and his lady, Baroness Serchenfeld of Bavaria. His acquaintance -gave me great pleasure. I found him a very plain, modest and interesting -man. - -In paying Mr. Thomas my parting visit, I met his father, eighty-eight -years old, and in full possession of his mental faculties. I entertained -myself a long time with him. Among other topics, he related to me, that -he had seen the spot which the city of Baltimore now occupies, a forest -inhabited by Indians. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - _Stay in Washington, from the 2d until the 15th of November, - 1825._ - - -On the morning of the 2d of November I received another visit from Mr. -de Vallenilla. He showed me a golden medal, which had formerly been -coined by the town of Williamsburg in Virginia, in honour of President -Washington, and a very well made miniature of that great man, painted by -Stewart, to which was appended his hair. The medal was in a box made of -wood from one of the trees standing near Washington's tomb. The medal -and miniature were intended by Washington's family as presents for -President Bolivar, and Mr. de Vallenilla was to set off within a few -days for Caraccas, in order to present them to his patron, the liberator -Bolivar. - -In the public stage I left the friendly city of Baltimore, with which I -was extremely gratified, accompanied by Mr. Huygens, for Washington, the -seat of government of the United States, distant thirty-nine miles. The -weather was good and tolerably warm. The stage travelled slowly, and we -did not arrive before five o'clock in the evening. The road was -principally a turnpike, kept in a very good state. The country belonging -to the state of Maryland is for the most part hilly, covered with wood -of large-leaved oak and pine trees, appearing but very little settled. -The ground is sandy; the fields are planted with Indian corn and -tobacco. The country is for the most part uniform; we did not pass -through a single decent village. The difference between this country and -the northern states is very striking. The houses are a great deal -smaller, and of an inferior construction than the worst log-houses in -the state of New York. The most of these small houses are inhabited by -negroes, who generally had a very tattered appearance. We crossed -several creeks over good wooden bridges, and six miles from Washington, -near Bladensburg, we crossed the east branch of the Potomac, by two -wooden bridges. It was here, that in the year 1814, an engagement -between the English and the Americans took place, in which the American -militia is said to have displayed no very great degree of courage. In -consequence of this affair, the English marched into Washington, and -burned the capitol and the President's house. - -I had not formed a great idea of Washington city, but what I saw was -inferior to my expectation. The capitol stands upon an elevation, and is -to be considered as the centre of the future city. Up to this time it is -surrounded but by inconsiderable houses and fields, through which small -houses are also scattered. From the capitol, several avenues, planted -with trees, extend in different directions. We rode into the -Pennsylvania avenue, and eventually came to the houses, which are built -so far apart that this part of the city has the appearance of a -newly-established watering place. The adjacent country is very fine, and -there are several fine views upon the broad Potomac. We passed by the -President's house; it is a plain building,[I-29] of white marble, -situated in a small garden. - - [Footnote I-29: The Duke of Leinster's Palace served as the model - for this building; that, however, is one story higher.] - -The president resides in the middle building; the four others are -occupied as public offices. They are built of brick. - -The plan of Washington is colossal, and will hardly ever be executed. -According to the plan, it could contain a population of one million of -inhabitants, whilst it is said at present to have but thirteen thousand. -To be the capitol of such a large country, Washington lies much too near -the sea. This inconvenience was particularly felt during the last war. -It has been proposed to transfer the seat of government to Wheeling, on -the Ohio, in the western part of Virginia. - -Quite early next morning I received a friendly visit from the French -minister, Baron Durand de Mareuil, whom I knew in Dresden, nineteen -years ago, and afterwards as French minister at Naples, and met him in -the same quality at Brussels. General Macomb, commander of the engineer -corps of the United States, paid me a visit, and I was much delighted -with his interesting conversation. Lieutenant Huygens also came, with -whom I rode to Georgetown. This small town is amphitheatrically situated -on the Potomac, whose right bank, covered with wood and partly -cultivated, presents a pleasant view. Georgetown is separated from -Washington, or rather from the ground on which it is to stand, by a -small river called Rocky Creek, which empties into the Potomac, over -which there is a bad wooden bridge. I returned to Washington with the -minister, in order to be introduced to several of the highest public -officers, and to the diplomatic body. At first we went to the office of -Mr. Clay, the secretary of state, one of the most celebrated American -orators. He is a tall, thin man; I found him in mourning for one of his -daughters, of whom he has had the misfortune to lose three in a short -time. Afterwards we went to see the president, who received us very -kindly, and treated me as an old acquaintance. The house of the -president, as already mentioned, is built of white marble. In the -interior there is a large hall with columns. We were received in a -handsomely furnished apartment. Beautiful bronzes ornamented the -mantels, and a full length portrait of President Washington hung upon -the wall. - -From the president's house we went to the office of the war department, -to visit Mr. Barbour, the secretary, whom, however, we did not find, and -thence to the navy department, to see the secretary, Mr. Southard. This -officer is reputed to be one of the most learned men in the United -States. The four offices are all built alike, very plain, with wooden -staircases; their interior resembles a school-house. There are no -sentinels nor porters; in the building for the war department a woman -kept a fruit shop. Even the president himself has usually no sentries, -and only during the night the marines from the navy-yard keep guard -before his house. - -We next visited Baron Mareuil, and I was very glad to renew my -acquaintance with his amiable lady. His house stands quite insulated, -like a country dwelling. The houses stand generally so widely distant in -Washington, that the plan of the city exhibits more streets than houses. -We made our last visit to the Russian minister, Baron Tuill, and the -English minister, Mr. Vaughan, but found neither at home. At five -o'clock I dined at Baron Mareuil's, who gave a diplomatic dinner in -honour of the King of France's name-day. I found the greatest part of -the diplomatic body assembled, and observed the French legation, -particularly, was very numerous. It was composed of the consul-general -Durand de St. André, brother of the Baron Mareuil, the vice-consul -Thierry, the secretary of the legation De Bresson, the Count Ganay, and -Mr. De Sonntag, a step-son of the Baron Mareuil, who was attached to the -legation, and of Mr. Laborie, who, however, did not appear. Of the -Russian legation, I found Mr. De Wallenstein, whom I had known in -Boston, and who is very much esteemed and beloved here on account of his -sensible conduct and good character, but particularly on account of his -solid acquirements and correct views. The president, it is said, -entertains a high opinion of him. I saw likewise Baron Maltitz, of the -same legation, who married an American wife some months ago, also the -Chargé d'Affaires of Brazils, Chevalier Rebello. I also became -acquainted with the secretary of the treasury, Mr. Rush, who was for -many years ambassador to England, and I met too with Mr. Brent, the -under secretary of state. The ladies present, were only Mrs. De Mareuil -and Mrs. De St. André. The dinner was truly splendid. - -The number of our acquaintances soon increased, and pleasant and -interesting parties ensued. At the same time we saw what was remarkable -in Washington and its vicinity. - -With Messrs. Huygens, father and son, we rode to the navy-yard, which is -under the command of a commodore. The commodore was just gone -travelling, therefore, we were accompanied on our tour by Captain Booth. -In this navy-yard ships are only built and refitted; after that they -descend the Potomac into the Chesapeake Bay, and go to Norfolk, where -they are armed. At the time of our visit there were but two frigates in -the yard, called forty-four gun ships, but mounting sixty-four pieces: -the Congress, an old ship, which was repairing, and the Potomac, an -entirely new ship, which has been launched, but subsequently hauled up -and placed under a roof. - -Upon the spot where the frigate Brandywine, which carried Gen. La -Fayette to France, was built, the keel of a new frigate was laid, and at -the same time the foundation for a house over this new ship was begun. -The ground being very moist, this building is erected on piles. Opposite -the entrance of the navy-yard, stands a rostral column of white marble -with allegoric figures. It was erected by the officers and midshipmen of -the navy of the United States, to commemorate the death of their -comrades who fell in the attack of Tripoli. The English, at the time of -their taking possession of Washington, on the 25th of June, 1814, broke -the fingers of one hand belonging to the allegoric figure representing -America, and destroyed the stylus in the hand of the muse of history. -This inscription has been added to the column: "MUTILATED BY THE -BRITISH." At the foot of the monument stand two Spanish brass -twenty-four pounders, taken by the Americans at Tripoli. - -In this, as well as in other American navy-yards, there are several -buildings. I found large forges where chain-cables are made, and tried -in the same manner I had witnessed two years ago in Newbridge, South -Wales. All the old copper taken from the ships is melted, and with an -alloy of brass, converted into utensils of every description used on -board ships; a steam-engine of fourteen horse-power moves a saw-mill, -consisting of two large and several smaller circular saws, as also, -machines for block-making, which however, can by no means be compared -with Brunel's block machine in Portsmouth; in the little arsenal are the -muskets, swords, &c. I observed a contrivance on the locks of the guns -to insulate the priming, and secure it in damp weather. I saw also a -kind of repeating musket with two locks, one behind the other. With such -muskets, by means of the anterior lock, twelve consecutive discharges -can be produced, and these being over, the gun is loaded again like an -ordinary infantry musket, and fired by means of the lowest lock. After -the anterior lock is fired, all the remaining shots incessantly follow, -and cannot be withheld at will, as it is the case with the repeating gun -bought by me in New York, already described. It is yet unknown how this -successive firing can be obtained. Captain Booth showed me also double -screws of his own invention, the object of which is to supply the place -of ordinary lanyards for ships. This officer has obtained a patent for -his contrivance, and it has been adopted, for experiment, in the frigate -Brandywine; in the same navy-yard is a laboratory, under the arsenal, -where the necessary fire-works for the artillery are made. The place -seemed to me to be ill chosen, since an explosion that may easily happen -in such an establishment, might cause most terrible consequences to the -navy-yard. - -Over the Potomac there is a long wooden bridge, built upon ordinary -cross-beams. I measured it, and found it to be fifteen paces broad, and -one thousand nine hundred long. My paces being to the ordinary ones in -the relation of four to five, it may be assumed that it is about two -thousand three hundred and seventy-five paces in length. It required -nineteen minutes to walk from one end to the other. Every foot-passenger -pays six cents. This bridge astonishes by its length, but not at all in -its execution, for it is clumsy and coarse. Many of the planks are -rotten, and it is in want of repair; it has two side-walks, one of them -is separated from the road by a rail. It is lighted by night with -lanterns. It is provided with two drawbridges, in order to let vessels -pass. It grew dark before I returned home, and was surprised at the -stillness of the streets, as I scarcely met an individual. - -Patents of invention are issued from the patent-office; whoever wishes -to obtain a patent for an invention, is obliged to deliver a model or an -accurate drawing of it. These models are exposed in an appropriate -place, where they remain until the expiration of the time for which the -patents are granted; they are then put into the lumber-room. Among such -models, there certainly is a great number of things of little -importance, as for instance, a contrivance for peeling apples; there are -also ninety-six models for making nails in different ways, but some of -them very remarkable. The most interesting models of machinery seemed to -me to be those intended to remove mud from the bottoms of rivers, and -canals, or to make them deeper. One of them consists of an ordinary -steam-boat; with her they go to the spot where they are to work; arrived -at the spot they cast anchor, stop the two water-wheels, and with an -apparatus which is moved by the engine, draw the mud from the bottom. -According to another model, the same operation can be performed by means -of a draw-wheel. A great many models are intended to separate seed from -cotton, to beat, spin, and weave it; none of them, however, are reputed -to be superior to the known English machines. - -Of steam-engines and steam-boats there are a great many models of very -singular form, also steam-boats with rotatory motions; they however do -not answer the purpose. I saw patterns of railways, and models of -machines to draw boats from a lower canal into a higher one, by help of -an inclined plane. Then two models of floating covered batteries. One of -them was an oblong case, in which is fixed a steam-engine, giving to two -long iron bars a rotatory motion. These bars, like two clock-hands, -projecting off the deck, are intended to keep off a boarding enemy. -A model to compress leaden bullets, in order to give them more weight. -A great number of household and kitchen apparatus, fire-places of -different descriptions, an earth-augur for seeking water, fire-engines -of various kinds, a fire-proof roof, contrived by a German, several -machines to make bricks, instruments by means of which, in navigating -the Mississippi, trees lying under water can be taken hold of and sawed -to pieces without stopping the vessel in its course, machinery to bore -holes in rocks, and others to hoist rocks out of water; the machine -contrived in London by Perkins to print with steel; models of book -printing-presses; models for combing wool, and dressing woollen stuffs; -fan-mills; leather manufacturing instruments, and among others, an -instrument for splitting hides; a great number of agricultural -instruments, namely, a great many ploughs for every kind of soil, -invented by Germans; machines for mowing grass, for thrashing and -cutting straw. Among the most important machines, I will mention one for -making blocks, which is considered not to be inferior in any respect to -that of Brunel, in Portsmouth, and another which renders steeping of -flax unnecessary, and yet fits it after fourteen days drying to be -broken and heckled. For permission to take a copy of the machine, one -must pay ten dollars to the inventor. I ordered two copies; one for the -Agricultural Society of Ghent, and another to present to my father. -Several fine models of bridges, especially of hanging ones, among -others, one of the bridges in Trenton, near Philadelphia, and another of -that near Fayetteville, in North Carolina; also one of a hanging bridge, -under which is suspended a canal passing over the river. Respecting arms -I did not find much improvement. There was also a triangle of steel, -weighing six pounds, upon which three different hammers struck, to -supply the place of church bells. This ringing is said to be heard at a -great distance. It has been introduced in several places to assemble the -people. - -The patent-office is in the same building with the post-office. They -pointed out to me two large gilt frames with the arms of France and -Navarre. They hung before the catastrophe of 1814, in the house of the -president, and contained full length portraits of Louis XVI. and Marie -Antoinette, which were presented in 1783, by those unfortunate monarchs -to the United States, at their especial desire. Both portraits suddenly -disappeared, and it is believed that it happened in 1814, when the -English made their unexpected visit to Washington, and burnt down the -house of the president. - -The patent-office is under the direction of Dr. Thornton,[I-30] who is -an able draughtsman. Under Dr. Thornton, a Swiss is employed, whose name -is Keller, a very able mechanic, and inspector of the model room, who -explained every thing to me. Dr. Thornton was so kind as to accompany me -to a sculptor, who, by means of casting a mould upon the face, obtains a -striking resemblance, and has made busts of the first American -statesmen, &c. - - [Footnote I-30: [Since deceased. His place is supplied by Dr. - Thomas P. Jones, of Philadelphia.]--TRANS.] - -I arranged a party to the Falls of Potomac, with Mr. De Bresson, sixteen -miles distant, where we were accompanied by Mr. Huygens, Jr. On the 6th -of November, at nine o'clock, we left Washington and went five miles -upon a very rough road, along the left bank of the river, which is at -first very broad. Both shores are hilly and covered with wood, for the -most part hickory and different species of oak. Of the primitive woods -nothing is to be seen, for generally the wood is second growth. The -banks soon became rocky, and we observed even in the river some -projecting rocks. On the left shore they have dug a canal, this, however -is too narrow, and only navigable by long boats, resembling the -Durham-boats on the St. Lawrence river. In these boats, wood, lumber, -stones, especially mill-stones, and the harvest from the upper -countries, are carried to Washington. - -Five miles above the city, we went over, on a hanging bridge, to the -right shore. The chains consist of bars of wrought iron. The bridge -itself is of wood, as well as the two cross-beams standing on its -extremities, through which the chains are passed; these cross-beams form -a kind of entrance, having an Egyptian appearance. The length of the -bridge is about one hundred and sixteen feet, its breadth sixteen feet. -A rather high toll is paid for passing it; we paid a dollar and a half -for a carriage with two horses, for going and coming. The road, passing -almost incessantly through a wood, became a little better after we -arrived at the other side of the bridge. It was called a turnpike road, -but still it continued hilly. We passed but a single inn, and saw but a -single country house, which belonged to Commodore Jones, whose daughter -became a Catholic and a nun, in a convent at Georgetown; this occurrence -produced a great sensation in the United States. Most of the people we -met with, were tattered negroes, who humbly saluted us. We were now in -the state of Virginia, in the vicinity of the falls; when the road -became very bad, we left our vehicle and went on foot through the -forest, to see this natural curiosity, whose noise made us sensible of -its proximity. - -The river runs here over a rocky bed, and is about three hundred paces -wide; in the dry season it is a great deal narrower. It forms several -distinct falls, none of them above fifty feet high. They recall to -memory Glenn's Falls on the Hudson, between Lake George and Saratoga. -We crept about in the labyrinth of broken rocks, not without danger or -difficulty, in order to obtain different views of these falls. The sun -was shining upon them at the time, and afforded us the sight of several -rainbows; we soon felt ourselves richly rewarded for our pains. - -In order to avoid these falls, a canal with locks has been made on the -right shore. The canal passing through the rocks, is in some places dug -down more than fifty feet. We, unfortunately, had chosen Sunday for our -excursion; the inhabitants were gone to church, and there was nobody to -give us the necessary explanations. There was no vegetation on the rocks -about the falls, except some broom and single clover. We saw also upon -the rock a creeping cactus plant, resembling the cochineal cactus, with -small pear-shaped fruit, which contained a purple-red slimy juice. This -plant gave me the first sign of my approach to the south. We returned to -Washington by the road we came. Notwithstanding the late season, it was -as warm as in midsummer. - -The capitol is a really imposing building. When it is once surrounded by -handsome buildings, it will produce a fine effect. It is built of white -marble, and has three domes; the largest is over the rotunda, and the -two smaller over the wings. The capitol stands on an acclivity, and in -front is three stories high, and on the back, which is opposite the -president's mansion, four stories high. In front is the entrance, with a -portal of Corinthian columns; on the back part there is a large balcony, -decorated with columns. The entrance under the portal is a little too -low. - -In the centre of the building, under the principal dome is a large -circular hall, receiving light from the roof. Pictures are to be placed -in this hall, under the bas-reliefs. One of these represents the -deliverance of Captain Smith, commander of the first English settlement -in Virginia, by the Indian Princess Pocahontas; another is an allegory, -representing the landing of European emigrants. Behind this hall is a -large saloon, contiguous to the balcony, which contains the library of -Congress. During the English incursion in 1814, the library was -destroyed by fire; the present library has been gradually collected -since, and consists in great part of the late President Jefferson's -books. Under the large hall is a small one, supported by three rows of -columns, not unlike a family tomb. It receives its light from above, by -a round opening in the floor of the large hall, and serves as a passage. -It has been proposed to place there the coffin of the great WASHINGTON. -No principal staircase is yet built, but a great number of smaller ones. -The interior is altogether very angular. Columns and corridors are -numerous in all the lateral galleries and saloons; the capitals of the -columns are mostly of Egyptian taste, and the models seem to have been -taken from the "description de l'Egypte." In the corridor leading to the -senate chamber, are columns, the shafts of which represent a bunch of -stalks of Indian corn, and the capitals the fruit of the same plant. -In the wings on the right hand side from the entrance, is the senate -chamber, the offices belonging to it, the office of the president, and -session room of the supreme court of the United States. This, and the -senate chamber, are built in a semicircular form. In the centre is a -place for the presiding officer. The members of the senate have their -seats amphitheatrically arranged; every one has a chair, and before him -a small mahogany desk. In this wing are hung the four pictures by -Trumbull, which are hereafter to be placed in the rotunda. One of them -represents the Declaration of Independence: there is a very fine -engraving of this picture; another, the surrender of General Burgoyne to -General Gates, near Saratoga; the third, the capitulation at Yorktown, -and the filing off of the English between the American and French army; -the fourth, the resignation of General Washington, and laying down of -his commission to congress on the 23d of December, 1783. The portraits -are said to be striking likenesses. As to the composition and execution -of these pictures, the first makes one think of the pedantic school of -Benjamin West, and the other loses by faint colouring. The painter was, -moreover, placed under restraint by want of taste in his countrymen for -the fine arts, who resemble, in that respect, their English ancestors: -the posture of almost every single person having been prescribed him. - -In the other wing of the building is the hall of representatives, -likewise in form of an amphitheatre, and the offices belonging to it. In -this hall is a full length portrait of General La Fayette. The ceiling -of this saloon, like that of the senate chamber, and supreme court room, -is supported by doric columns, whose shafts are of pudding-stone. The -gallery above the principal dome, affords a very extensive view. The -principal avenues of the city, which is to be built, all depart from -this point, and this view recalls the situation of the castle at -Carlsruhe, with this difference, that here no wood, and but few houses -are seen. - -With the families de Mareuil, St. André, Huygens, and all the French -legation, we made an excursion by water to Mount Vernon, the -country-seat of the great Washington. Mount Vernon is situated sixteen -miles from the capitol, and on the right bank of the Potomac, in the -state of Virginia. We hired a steam-boat for the purpose, on board of -which we went at half past ten o'clock, at Georgetown. We went across -the long bridge through an opening of a double drawbridge, and steered -down the Potomac. Washington remaining on our left, had a very handsome -appearance from the water, and especially the cape, named Greenleaf's -point, situated at the junction of the east branch with the Potomac, -which is fortified, and contains very spacious storehouses. Eight miles -below Washington, we stopped at the city of Alexandria, lying on the -right bank of this river, in order to obtain a boat for landing at Mount -Vernon. Alexandria is one of the three cities of the district of -Columbia, which are Washington, Georgetown, and Alexandria. This town is -said to have a considerable commerce; it has a harbour with wooden -wharves, near which I saw several schooners lying, and also two brigs. -It is said to contain about eight thousand inhabitants. The streets are -long and very straight, crossing each other at right angles. After a -stay of twenty minutes, we continued our course. Both banks are hilly, -in some places rocky; there is a great deal of gravel, and they are -covered with wood. At a winding of the stream we passed by Fort -Washington, recently built upon a rock on the left bank, commanding the -stream with its batteries. In an oblique direction on the opposite -shore, we at last perceived Mount Vernon, beautifully situated. The -water near the banks being very low, the steam-boat stopped in the -middle of the stream, about a mile from the shore, and we landed in -boats. We ascended by a very bad road to a place where cattle were -grazing, which I heard was formerly Washington's garden. Between three -oaks and some cypress trees, we saw a coarse wooden door about four feet -high, in a very bad piece of masonry. I thought at first it was a -spring-house. How great was my astonishment, when I learned that this -was the entrance to the sepulchral vault of the greatest man of his -time; the ornament of his age; of WASHINGTON! - -I picked up some acorns fallen from the trees which shaded the tomb; my -object was to plant them when I returned home. I took also from this -sacred spot a twig of a cypress tree. The tomb is no longer opened, -since strangers have nearly cut to pieces the whole of the pall covering -the coffin, in order to preserve it as a relic. It was last opened at -the time of General La Fayette's visit. - -Thence we went to the dwelling-house, about three hundred paces distant, -and situated on a hill, from which there is an extremely fine view of -the Potomac. This estate belongs to Judge Washington, who, being absent -upon business connected with his office the greatest part of the year, -permits his inherited property to decay very much. He has no children. -The house is two stories high, built of wood, and without taste. On the -side next the river, it has a piazza, and on the other, is the entrance -with stone steps, which are almost decayed. By means of a wooden -colonade, the house communicates right and left with the wings and -household buildings. Farther on, are houses for negro slaves, of whose -dirty, ugly, and ragged children, we saw a great many running about. It -being Sunday, we had much difficulty in finding access to the house; at -last we succeeded in getting into the lower story, which has been left -nearly in the same condition it was at the decease of its great -possessor. But the number of books belonging to the library, has been -increased by many new works by the present proprietor. A great many fine -engravings decorate the walls, especially a very handsome Louis XVI. -which Washington was presented with by that unfortunate monarch. On the -gilt frame above, are the arms of France, and below, those of -Washington's family. In the four corners are the cyphers of the king and -G. W. There are also two very good engravings, representing the battle -of Bunker's Hill, and the death of General Montgomery; four views of the -attack of Gibraltar and its defence, and a miniature portrait of the -great man painted on enamel. One of the keys of the Bastille, sent after -its destruction by General La Fayette to Washington, is exposed in a -case of glass, under it is a sepia drawing of the demolition of that -prison. The furniture and other regulations of the rooms, are very -plain; in the eating-room I observed a valuable chimneypiece of Italian -marble, with handsome bas-reliefs, and two columns of _gallo-antico_. - -It is known that when General La Fayette was visiting Washington's -burial place, an eagle made his appearance in the air and hovered over -the spot until the general had proceeded farther. We also observed to -day a very large one, which seemed to observe us from the height; we saw -him above us when we were embarking. He seemed to hover over the same -spot for a long while, and when the last boat came near the steam-boat, -he suddenly left the place, flew towards the wood, and was lost to -sight. - -In our travelling company, I became acquainted with Count Miot, who had -formerly been minister of the interior in Naples, and afterwards in -Spain, under Joseph Buonaparte, and now was travelling for pleasure, and -to visit his ancient master. Mr. De Mareuil detained all the gentlemen -of our party to dinner at his house, and we remained there till ten -o'clock, very much pleased. At a ball given by Baron Mareuil, more than -two hundred persons, the members of the diplomatic body, the first -authorities of the country, and the principal inhabitants, were present. -I met with General Bernard, and became acquainted with General Brown, an -aged man, whose right side appeared to be palsied. The most interesting -acquaintances I made, were those of Commodore Porter, whose name, as -well as the important services he rendered to his country, and his late -trial, have rendered him known to the world, and of Colonel Roberdeau, -of the engineers. I became farther acquainted with Mr. Calvert, who told -me his son had studied in Göttingen and had some time ago travelled to -Weimar, where he was presented at court and was very well received. The -ladies were very elegantly dressed, and danced very well. They danced -mostly French quadrilles, but always with the same figures. The music -was good, and by the marine band of the garrison. The ball, however, did -not last long; I was one of the last to go, and came home at eleven -o'clock. The president was not there; he does not accept any invitation -in the city. The present president receives even the foreign ministers -only when they have been announced by the secretary of state. The -president is likewise exempt from returning visits, which he had already -the kindness to give me notice of by Mrs. Sullivan, in Baltimore. - -Another ball was given by General Brown, in honour of the marriage of -Captain Gardner, of the fourth regiment of artillery. The gentlemen I -found there were mostly officers of the army. There is scarcely an army -in Europe in which the corps of officers is better composed than in the -small American army; since in the United States no one can on any -account be an officer, if he is not well educated. The officers are -exclusively taken from the military academy in West Point; no subaltern -officer is promoted. The greater part of the inferior officers who were -advanced during the last war, had been dismissed. Such a measure is in -this country unavoidably necessary, where none but people of the lowest -class enlist as soldiers in the army; without such an interval between -the officers and the rank and file, discipline could not be maintained. -Therefore, if a young man is seen in the uniform of an American officer, -it may with confidence be inferred that he is in every respect fit to -maintain his place in the best society. - -At the third ball, given by Mr. Huygens, we once more met with a very -pleasant company. I conversed a long time with Lieutenant Wolf Tone, of -the first regiment of artillery. He is an Irishman by birth, educated in -a French military school. He had been formerly in the French service, -and is patronised by General Bernard. - -At a visit I made to General Macomb and Major Vandeventer, at the -war-office, the general showed me many drawings and plans of fortresses -and entrenchments, together with two remarkable lists sent in every -month from West Point by Lieutenant-Colonel Thayer. One of them contains -the names of the best and worst cadets in every class, and the other the -names of those who deserve to be rewarded, as well of others who have -been punished, with indication of their faults; finally, of those who -have been expelled, and the reason of their expulsion. Both lists are -put in frames, under glass, and hung up in the general's office; one is -changed every fortnight, and the other every month. I was told by the -general, that they saved him frequently from wasting conversation with -the parents of the cadets. - -The general conducted me also to the topographical office, being under -the direction of Colonel Roberdeau. I found there several repeating -circles, theodolites and telescopes, made by Troughton and Ramsden; also -two transit instruments, destined for the observatory which is still to -be built; an instrument by Troughton, which serves for measuring the -ten-thousandth part of an English inch, and a model measure of the -English yard, French mètre and litre. This gentleman regretted that the -old English measures and weights are retained in the United States, -instead of adopting, as it has been done in the Netherlands, the new -French standard, which is much better. - -There were also several good plans of battles and sieges of the -revolutionary war, namely, those of the old fortresses Ticonderoga and -Crownpoint, on Lake Champlain. I missed the most recent drawings. On the -other hand, General Macomb showed me what they call the Indian -department, where all business with the Indian tribes is attended to. -There we found portraits of a great many Indian chiefs, and several of -their wives, who have been at different periods in Washington, in order -to compliment the president. They then receive medals according to their -rank, which they wear by a riband round the neck. There were also -several weapons and different ornaments of tribes I had already seen. -Finally, I visited the ordnance department, which is under the direction -of a colonel. I saw here a gun invented by Mr. Hall, at Harper's Ferry, -which is loaded from the breech, and with which five sure shots can be -made in a minute. With this gun, three thousand discharges had been -made, and it has proved very exact; several have been ordered, and one -or two companies are to be armed with them in case of war. - -At a dinner given by the president, and at which I had the honour along -with about forty persons, to be present, were the diplomatic body, the -state secretaries, several generals, and other persons of distinction. -Among them, I made the acquaintance of Mr. Gaillard,[I-31] of North -Carolina, president pro tem. of the senate. No ladies were present, -because Mrs. Adams was not well. The table furniture was very rich. -I was particularly pleased with a service of silver gilt. The -eating-room is very spacious, besides which there were two richly -furnished rooms open. I remarked several handsome Sèvres, porcelain -vessels, and a marble bust of the great Washington, by the Italian -sculptor Ceracchi, who was afterwards shot in Paris, on account of a -conspiracy against Napoleon's life. A great chandelier was remarkably -fine; it was made for the Emperor Napoleon, and purchased in the year -1815, by the American minister in Paris. The imperial eagles now pass -for American. - - [Footnote I-31: Since dead.] - -General Brown,[I-32] during a visit, showed me a large gold medal which -was presented to him by congress, on account of his services in the late -war. On one side of it is a bust of the general, and on the other a -trophy of English arms surrounding a fasces. Four shields bear the -names, Sackett's Harbour, Niagara, Chippewa, and Erie, with the dates on -which these places witnessed the general's deeds. At the foot of the -trophy an American eagle is represented, holding in his talons an -English banner. This medal is not intended to be worn: the general -preserves it in a box. The American citizens are not allowed to wear any -foreign decorations; even General Bernard was obliged to lay aside those -he had so truly merited. General Brown showed me also a gold box, -presented to him by the city of New York, together with the freedom of -the city. - - [Footnote I-32: [Since dead.]--TRANS.] - -On the 14th of November I began to make farewell visits, for the -dwellings in Washington are so far distant, that such visits require a -great deal of time. On this occasion, I had a long conversation with the -secretary of war, Mr. Barbour, and general Macomb, on military subjects. -I differed in opinion from the secretary about the efficiency of militia -men, of whom he, as their former general,[I-33] seemed to entertain too -high an opinion. At Mr. de Wallenstein's I saw some good instruments; -a barometer for measuring heights, and a telescope which he had adopted -as a transit-instrument. I found there also Krusenstern's large Atlas of -the South Sea, a fine work on bad paper. Mr. de Wallenstein had -translated an astronomical work from the Spanish into English; he had -also an English copy of the illustrations of Göthe's Faust laid open. -With General Bernard I conversed for a long while on the science of -military engineering. He told me he had served at the defence of two -fortresses, and obtained the experience, that there can be no strong -defence, without having covered works on the front of attack. Respecting -coast batteries, he was of opinion that the best were those which had at -least an elevation of thirty feet above the surface of the water, in -order that the rebounding shots coming from ships should not attain the -breastwork. He considered the establishments for military instruction in -this country susceptible of great improvements. He had proposed to -establish a military exercise school, to which should be alternately -sent battalions of infantry, and companies of artillery; this -proposition has not been adopted. The general said also a great deal -about the importance of Anvers, and gave me many interesting -explanations of Napoleon's designs in fortifying that place. Finally, -the conversation turned on the battle of Waterloo, at which the General -had been present as aid to the Emperor. Tears came into the eyes of this -gallant man, while speaking of his former master. - - [Footnote I-33: He had commanded the militia when Governor of - Virginia.] - -On the last day of my stay in Washington, I took a ride with Messrs. -Huygens, and Mr. de Bresson; we went to the marine barracks, where, by -order of the secretary of war, experiments with Hall's muskets were to -be made. Mr. Hall, who is inspector of the gun manufactory at Harper's -Ferry, was present himself. - -Experiments were made on the celerity of firing; Mr. Hall fired with his -gun, and the sergeant major of the marines with an ordinary infantry -musket. The last could make but four shots in a minute; whilst Mr. Hall -made six. He has also applied his invention to ordinary infantry muskets -and rifles, and caused them to be constructed at Harper's Ferry. They -cost the government eighteen dollars a piece. An essential improvement -would be to introduce percussion fire-locks. Moreover these arms can -only be given into the hands of very well exercised men. The government -intends to arm the left wing companies with them. For the riflemen or -light infantry, this gun seems to be very well suited. I expressed a -desire that Mr. Hall would make such a gun for me; but he replied, that -being in the service of the government, he was not allowed to make any -without particular permission of the secretary of war. The few marines -in quarters were paraded under the command of a Lieutenant, and I was -received with music and presented arms. The whole of the marine corps is -composed of but seven hundred men, who were employed on board the -squadrons in the Mediterranean Sea, the Gulf of Mexico, and in the South -Sea, to serve on board the receiving ships, and in the navy yards of -Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Washington and Norfolk. Hopes were -entertained, that the next congress would consent to augment this corps -to the number of fifteen hundred men, and this augmentation would, no -doubt, have a great influence on the improvement of the service. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - _Departure from Washington.-- Fredericktown.-- Harper's Ferry.-- - Blue Ridge.-- Staunton.-- Natural Bridge.-- Wier's Cave.-- - Charlotteville.-- University of Virginia.-- Monticello.-- - Richmond.-- Jamestown.-- Norfolk.-- Fort Monroe.-- - Fayetteville.-- Columbia._ - - -On the 15th of November, I set out from Washington with Mr. Huygens, -jr., who was desirous of accompanying me by permission of his father. -I had hired a carriage with four horses to Harper's Ferry, about fifty -miles from Washington, where we were to arrive in two days. The road was -for some miles very good, but afterwards it became bad and rugged and -continued so the rest of the day. We left the District of Columbia, and -again entered the state of Maryland. The country through which we were -passing was hilly, covered with wood, and in some places cultivated; -single large houses belonging to tobacco planters, and in their vicinity -small ones for the negro slaves, were scattered here and there. We went -through only one decent place called Rocksville. About seven o'clock in -the evening we reached an inn called Scholl's tavern, situated in the -township of Clarksburg, distant from Washington twenty-five miles. - -Next morning we left Clarksburg; it was pretty cool, and the road as -rough as before. It was fifteen miles to Fredericktown, over a hilly and -rocky country. Sometimes we saw handsome prospects on the mountains of -the Blue Ridge, which we were approaching. The houses that we passed by, -were like those of yesterday; the negro houses mostly of wood, with -clumsy chimnies, built close to the house. The Monocacy river we passed -at a ford within four miles of Fredericktown. This is one of the -principal places in the state of Maryland, and is situated in a well -cultivated country surrounded by hills. It has about five thousand -inhabitants, and is built very regularly. At the entrance of one of the -streets stood a wooden triumphal arch raised in honour of General La -Fayette. The inscriptions were already nearly effaced by the weather. -I had hardly alighted at the tavern, when I received a visit from a -clergyman of this place named Dr. Schaeffer, a son of a preacher of the -same name in Philadelphia. This gentleman accompanied me to see Mr. -Schley, whom I had known in Saratoga, and afterwards we went to a -Lutheran church, a very plain building. We ascended the spire in order -to have a view of the town and surrounding country. The country appeared -to be very well cultivated; their principal agricultural object is -tobacco. There are four churches, Lutheran, Reformed, Catholic and -Methodist. The public buildings are the Court-house and prison. - -Harper's Ferry was yet twenty-one miles distant from Fredericktown. The -country grew at every moment more hilly, and the road rugged and worse; -as we were approaching the Blue Ridge, we often alighted and walked. -We met with several herds and flocks, which are driven from the western -states to different seaports for sale. The wagons we met were generally -carrying products of the west; they were large wagons with five stout -horses. Every horse had on its collar a set of bells, consisting of five -different tones, which made a very singular music. - -Meanwhile, our road passed mostly through forest; we went through but a -single insignificant village called Newton. The mountains grew higher -and more rocky. At last we came again to the Potomac, which we had left -the day before, and enjoyed many fine views. - -This country reminded me of Pranen, near Dresden. It was night when we -arrived on the left bank of the Potomac, opposite to Harper's Ferry; -we were obliged to wait for a considerable length of time for the -ferry-boat. When this came, we saw it was conducted by an intoxicated -negro; even the ferry-boat itself was very bad; however, we fortunately -crossed the shallow river, passing amidst pieces of rocks, and perceived -at some distance up, three piers standing in the river, on which the -next year, a bridge was to be built. Having crossed, we came into the -state of Virginia. At Harper's Ferry, we took our lodgings in a neat -tavern; and I had here the pleasure to see Dr. Weise, from Dresden, who, -as soon as he knew I had arrived, came to see me. I take the liberty of -inserting here the following description of this country, by THOMAS -JEFFERSON, in his "Notes on the State of Virginia." - -"The passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge is perhaps one of the -most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of -land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the -foot of the mountain an hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left -approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also. In the moment of -their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, -and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our -senses into the opinion, that this earth has been created in time, that -the mountains were formed first, that the rivers began to flow -afterwards, that in this place particularly they have been dammed up by -the Blue Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the -whole valley; that continuing to rise they have at length broken over at -this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. -The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on the Shenandoah, the -evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds, by the -most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the -distant finishing which nature has given to the picture, is of a very -different character. It is a true contrast to the foreground. It is as -placid and delightful, as that is wild and tremendous. For the mountain -being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the cleft, -a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the -plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult -roaring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm -below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way too the -road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, -pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, -its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about -twenty miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round that. This -scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic. Yet here, as in the -neighbourhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their -lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these -monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken -the earth itself to its centre." - -The morning after my arrival at Harper's Ferry, I visited Mr. -Stubbersfield, director of the gun manufactory, to whom I was -recommended by the secretary of war, and he showed me the establishments -under his orders. The workshops are in seven large stone buildings, of -which the interior partitions, with regret be it spoken, are of wood. -The buildings stand in rows, four at the foot of the mountain, and -opposite to them, three on the bank of the Potomac. At the entrance of -the street which they form, is Mr. Stubbersfield's office, from which he -can overlook the entrances of all the buildings. The machines are moved -by water-wheels. All the buildings are two stories high; in the lower -part are the forges, and in the higher stories, workmen who use no fire -in their work. In the working of iron I saw nothing new. The iron -employed for barrels, comes from Juniata, in the state of Pennsylvania, -and is in plates, of which each is calculated for one barrel. The steel -is German, called Halbach's steel, furnished by Mr. Halbach, of -Philadelphia. Every gun must pass through one hundred and twenty hands -before it is ready. A particular workman is appointed for every part and -paid for it separately, when the work has been duly examined, and proved -to be good. A skilful and diligent workman can gain two dollars per day. -When the workmen have prepared all the parts of a fire-lock, they -deliver them to a man who examines, tries them, and puts them together. -The barrels are turned by means of rings, which can be rendered smaller -or larger. The machinery for making gun-stocks was the most interesting -to me, because it was formerly a very laborious work. A piece of iron is -screwed upon a piece of wood, which has been made in the form of a -stock, at the place where the barrel is to be placed. After this the -piece is screwed into the machinery; in a parallel direction to it a -piece of iron is screwed, having the same form that is to be given to -the stock. The planing is performed by means of a wheel, to which are -adapted ledge-planes. The operation begins with the muzzle, and ends -with the breech of the gun. The gun-stock moves together with the iron -model, each round its axis, having a parallel direction with the axis of -a plain wheel of brass, which is rubbing on the iron model, and -following all its prominences and cavities. This wheel is also put in -motion and drawn towards the breech by means of an endless screw; during -this motion it planes the gun-stock off, and gives it the proper form. -This operation lasts six or seven minutes, and there is nothing to -prevent it from turning at the same time another gun-stock on the other -side. The gun-stock being duly formed, is taken out of the machinery, -and another put in its place; then the iron piece is taken away from the -turned gun-stock, it is fixed in a cramp, and applied to a bore-plane -for making the groove to receive the barrel. - -This manufactory, and that of Springfield, the only ones belonging to -the government, furnishes at present in time of peace, fifteen thousand -guns yearly. These guns are generally browned by the process indicated -by Dupin, also, the rings and bayonets, the last of which are kept -bright by the British. - -Mr. Stubbersfield conducted me also to the arsenal, in which the -finished muskets are delivered, and are either here preserved, or packed -up in cases by twenty, and sent to other arsenals. In the interior of -the arsenal, every thing is of wood, notwithstanding the great -importance of being fire-proof, as it contains such a large capital. -There were eighty-four thousand guns. If the value of one be estimated -only at thirteen dollars, it makes the sum of one million and ninety-two -thousand dollars. - -From the arsenal, we were conducted to a new manufactory, half a mile -from the town, where Mr. Hall's patent guns are constructed under his -own direction. He not being present, I was not fortunate enough to find -any body to explain the machinery, which appeared not yet in full -action. Dr. Weise, went with us to a mountain above this place, called -Jefferson's Rock. The prospect from it is really very fine; it agrees -with the description, yet I believe I have seen finer landscapes in -Germany. From that place also, the town can be surveyed, the houses of -which appeared to be rather scattered; of its fifteen hundred -inhabitants, three hundred are working in the gun manufactory. The -ground for the most part belongs to the government, and well recommended -persons obtain permission to build upon it. On an elevation, near -Jefferson's Rock, a large building, three stories high, has been -erected. The first story was intended for a church, the second for a -Lancasterian school, and the third for a free mason's lodge. I suffered -very much from a very cold wind, which brought with it a little snow. -In the evening, Dr. Weise came to me with a bridge builder, who was a -native of Reuslingen, who came here thirty years ago as a baker, and -then had learned the art of constructing mills and bridges. The second -bridge on the Schuylkill, above Philadelphia, built of a single arch, is -of his invention, and the next year he was to build one here over the -Potomac. - -On the 19th of November, we left Harper's ferry in a clear, but very -cold morning, and set off on a journey to the Natural Bridge, which is -one hundred and seventy-five miles distant. We rode in an ordinary -stage. The improvement of stages, appears not yet to have extended -beyond the Blue Mountains, because we were obliged to be contented with -one, which was in every respect very uncomfortable. The way led us -through a hilly country and was very bad. We went for a considerable -distance on rocks; on the road, a great many loose stones were lying, -and I was surprised, that our miserable vehicle was not broken to -pieces. At break of day, we arrived at a small place called Smithfield, -eighteen miles from Harper's ferry. A couple of miles farther, we came -to warm Sulphur Springs, the water of which has the taste of spoiled -eggs, like that of Aix-la-Chapelle. It seems to be very little known, as -there is no enclosure around it, and no houses near. A lucky chance will -no doubt make it known, and I should not be surprised, were I to come -hither again in fifteen or twenty years, to find at this spot an elegant -watering place, somewhat like Saratoga Springs. The road continued -through a forest of oak, chesnut, acacia, and cedar trees; houses were -seldom met with. We forded many creeks, the most considerable of them is -called Cedar creek. We observed also some grist-mills. It froze pretty -hard, so that the borders of the creeks were covered with a pretty thick -ice, and large icicles hung on the sluices of the mills. Eleven miles -beyond Smithfield, we came to Winchester, a very nice country town, -where the houses are mostly of masonry, and form a long principal -street, intersected by other smaller ones; it has a market-house, and -many stores, which appeared to be very well provided. Here we changed -our stage for a better one, although still very inconvenient. The wood -of which it was constructed was hickory, which has a great deal of -elasticity. - -From Winchester, we went to Stephensbury, eight miles farther, to -Middleton, then to Strasburg, six miles, and at last to Woodstock, -twelve miles, where we passed the night. This place is sixty-one miles -distant from Harper's ferry. We reached our night-quarters in the -evening about six o'clock, in a very cold night and a fine moonshine. -The places between Winchester and Woodstock were not considerable, -except Strasburg, which is more ancient than the others, and appears to -have a larger population. The houses are generally of wood and covered -with shingles, although a great number of stones are found here. The -country became at last very fine. On our left we saw the Blue Ridge, -from which we now withdrew at every moment. Another ridge, in a parallel -direction with the former, called the Northern Ridge, rose suddenly -between us and the Blue Ridge, which soon entirely disappeared. On our -right there was another ridge of mountains, it was an arm of the -Alleghany Mountains, and we went through a valley at least ten miles -wide. The formation of these parallel ridges is very singular, and no -instance occurs of it in the other parts of the world. The country was -pretty well cultivated, and by the exterior appearance of many -country-houses, we were induced to believe their inhabitants enjoyed -plenty. The enclosures of fields are here, for the most part, the -above-mentioned old fences, yet next to the houses they are of masonry -carefully formed. As it appeared, they travel here much on horseback. -On account of great distances between the plantations, almost all the -ladies can ride on horseback; we met several of them elegantly dressed, -and also black women. The race of horses of this country, appears to be -a very strong one. They use also oxen for drawing; to many carts were -put two oxen, and before them two horses. On the 20th of November, we -left Woodstock at half-past two o'clock in the morning, in a very -miserable stage, and proceeded to Staunton, seventy-one miles distant, -on a still more rugged road than that of yesterday; in this place we -passed the night. The places on our way were mostly insignificant: only -Shryock, New Market, Big Spring, and Harrisonburg, deserve to be -mentioned; the last of them is said to have from eight to nine hundred -inhabitants. The greatest part of the houses were wooden ones, and but a -few of masonry. This part of the state of Virginia does not bear -comparison with Massachusetts, New York, or even Pennsylvania. The great -number of slaves in this state, makes also a very bad impression.[I-34] -The largest part of the country is not covered with wood, and appears to -be well cultivated. As for the rest it is very hilly, and on our left -hand we had all day the ridge of North Mountains, of which, however, we -could not see much, owing to the fogginess of the weather. We crossed -many streams at fords; these streams were rather torrents. We crossed -the Shenandoah near its source. About seven o'clock in the evening we -reached Staunton, and took our lodgings in an unpleasant tavern. This -long and uncomfortable journey, in an extremely bad stage, and upon a -very rough way, made me quite uneasy, and my young travelling companion -more so, for he seemed not to be very much accustomed to such fatigues. -I suffered, however, this want of comfort with a great deal of patience. - - [Footnote I-34: ["Let it never be forgotten that a part of the - quarrel of the Americans with the government of Great Britain, - arose from the determination of the former not to tolerate the - farther importation of slaves; an importation absolutely forced on - them by England, in consideration of the vested rights of the - Royal African Company!!! With an admirable grace does England - upbraid America with tolerating slavery,--a curse by her inflicted - on her colonies." --_London Literary Chronicle, June 7th, - 1828._]--TRANS.] - -On the 21st of November, we were obliged to stay in Staunton, because -the stage goes only every other day to the Natural Bridge, which is on -the road to Knoxville and Louisville, and this bridge being too far -distant from Staunton, we could not, with a hired carriage, go there, -and return within two days. We employed the leisure forced upon us in -examining the country. The town itself is small, has about one thousand -six hundred inhabitants, and consists, properly speaking, of but two -principal streets, intersecting each other at right angles. The greatest -part of the houses are of wood, covered with shingles. Staunton is the -chief place of Augusta county; the court was in session, and on that -account a great many lawyers were present. The town is surrounded by -hills and covered with wood, as far as I could observe in the foggy -weather, which lasted all day. The Shenandoah here is but a small brook; -opposite the town is a limestone rock, having many cavities. I was told -they were very spacious. I tried to creep in, but found the entrance so -narrow and low, that I was obliged to give it up. I had obtained from -Mrs. Weightman, in Washington, a letter of introduction to Dr. Scheffey, -her brother-in-law, and the most renowned lawyer in the place. -I delivered it, and received a visit from this gentleman. He came with -several of his brother lawyers, and among them three generals of militia -were introduced. Dr. Scheffey himself was a major, and almost every -inhabitant of distinction is invested with a rank in the militia. The -custom being here to call one another by their military rank, one is -tempted to believe himself transported to the head-quarters of some -army! In conversing with these gentlemen, I observed with astonishment -the aristocratical spirit which the Virginians possess. I was astonished -to hear them praising hereditary nobility and primogeniture! In the -evening I went to see Dr. Scheffey, and we spent the time very -pleasantly over a good glass of wine, and in rational conversation. - -The next morning, I left my baggage in Staunton at half past two -o'clock, in a miserable stage, in order to go to the Natural Bridge, -upon a very bad road. We passed only two decent places, Fairfield and -Lexington, the last is the chief town of Rockbridge county, and has a -court and high school. On account of a fog, which lasted all day, we -could see but little of the country, which in some parts of Rockbridge -county becomes very mountainous. We forded two small streams, called -Middle river and Buffalo creek, over the last there is a wooden bridge, -which is made use of only at very high water. Our travelling company was -not the most agreeable, it was composed of two Americans, who did not -open their mouths, and of an Irish resident, who talked the more for the -silence of the others; all this was disagreeable enough. At times he -became interesting, when he had cheered his heart with whiskey. We -passed by many very handsome country-houses; at one of them we saw eight -large black eagles sitting on a fence, they were fed by the care of the -proprietor. The inhabitants seem not very fond of shooting, for I saw -snipes in Fairfield, which flew even into the yard of the tavern. Game -is here very abundant, a deer costs about a dollar and a half. - -In the afternoon we reached a lonely tavern, situated in the mountains -called Natural Bridge, which is fifty miles distant from Staunton. -I availed myself of the short time the sun remained above the horizon to -hasten to the Natural Bridge, which is a mile and a half distant from -the tavern, and for the sake of which I had made so great a circuit and -suffered so many fatigues. A young negro slave from the tavern was our -conductor; the way lead through mountains overgrown with wood. At last I -stood upon a rock whence I could overlook the cleft and the bridge just -before me. In Jefferson's Notes, that learned man gives a description of -the bridge, which is as follows: - -"The Natural Bridge, the most sublime of Nature's works, though not -comprehended under the present head, must not be pretermitted. It is on -the ascent of a hill, which seems to have been cloven through its length -by some great convulsion. The fissure just at the bridge, is by some -admeasurements, two hundred and seventy feet deep, by others only two -hundred and five. It is about forty-five feet wide at the bottom, and -ninety feet at the top; this of course determines the length of the -bridge, and its height from the water, its breadth in the middle is -about sixty feet, but more at the ends, and the thickness of the mass, -at the summit of the arch about forty feet. A part of this thickness is -constituted by a coat of earth, which gives growth to many large trees. -The residue, with the hill on both sides, is one solid rock of -limestone.--The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but the larger -axis of the ellipsis, which would be the chord of the arch, is many -times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are -provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have -resolution to walk to them, and look over into the abyss. You -involuntarily fall on your hands and feet, creep to the parapet, and -peep over it. Looking down from this height about a minute, gave me a -violent head-ache. If the view from the top be painful and intolerable, -that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for -the emotions arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what they are -here: so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing as it -were up to heaven! The rapture of the spectator is really indiscribable! -The fissure continuing narrow, deep, and straight, for a considerable -distance above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleasing -view of the North Mountain on one side and Blue Ridge on the other, at -the distance each of them of about five miles. This bridge is in the -county of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and affords a public -and commodious passage over a valley, which cannot be crossed elsewhere -for a considerable distance. The stream passing under it is called Cedar -creek. It is a water of James's river, and sufficient in the driest -seasons to turn a grist-mill, though its fountain is not more than two -miles above." - -I confess that I am no poet; yet I was very glad to have taken the -trouble of coming hither; this rock-bridge being certainly one of the -greatest wonders of nature I have ever beheld; and I have seen Vesuvius -and the Phlegrean fields, the Giant's Causeway in Ireland, the Island of -Staffa, and the Falls of Niagara! The brook under the bridge was almost -dry; the most majestic view is from below. - -On the 23d of November we left the wretched tavern at the Natural -Bridge, and returned to Staunton in a crowded stage, in which were four -gentlemen from the state of Tennessee, members of congress, going to -Washington. I took my seat as usual alongside the coachman, where I had -more room and fresh air. We returned as far as Lexington by the road we -left it. Having stopped for a short while here, I was the object of much -curiosity to the German descendants who are settled here. The town of -Lexington was first established about forty years ago, and it now -contains eleven hundred inhabitants. In its vicinity upon a hill, is a -large arsenal covered with zinc, belonging to the United States. - -From Lexington we took another road which led us through the -considerable villages of Brownsburgh and Middleburgh. The road was in -some places very bad, and terribly rough; but we sometimes found a side -road, which in that dry season was still very good; it ran generally -through a forest. We saw lonely houses and met with many travellers on -horseback, several of them were well dressed white women. All our -coachmen in this state were whites; I was surprised at this, knowing -that black coachmen could be had at a cheaper rate, and was told that in -this state, blacks were not allowed to drive the mail stage. - -On the 24th of November, after nine o'clock in the morning, we set out -from Staunton in a hired coach, in order to pass by a circuitous route -the celebrated Wier's cave, and thence continue our journey to -Charlotteville, whither we had sent our heavy baggage by the stage. - -As far as Wier's cave, eighteen miles distant, we had a good country -road. We took our lodgings in a lonely house belonging to Mr. Mohler, -a German from Pennsylvania, of Saxon origin. The way was through a -hilly, woody country; many breaks in the earth presented limestone -rocks, and announced the proximity of caves. For a sportsman this -country must be delightful, for we saw in the woods two flocks of -partridges, which left the road, only to give way to the passing -carriage, and then settled at not more than ten paces from us. On the -banks of the creeks we saw a great number of snipes. Mohler's house is -situated on a considerable creek, called the South river, which by means -of a canal, works a grist-mill and forge. - -The grist-mill belongs to a miller, who has also a whiskey distillery, -and upwards of one hundred acres of land, with four negro slaves. He -cultivates wheat, some rye, and a great quantity of Indian corn. His -mill, a large stone building, is arranged very compendiously, and -reminded me of the large steam-mill at Baltimore. There are only two -pairs of stones, one for wheat, and the other for Indian corn. The -boulted flour is conveyed to the upper floor by means of elevators, and -spread upon it by a rake, which has a circular and horizontal motion, in -order to cool it. He sends his flour packed up in barrels to Richmond, -and even to Baltimore. The industrious Mohler has connected with his -grist-mill, a saw-mill, and a mill to break flax, which is likewise -cultivated, though not in a large quantity; this year, on account of the -dryness, it has failed. - -The entrance of the cave is about a mile and a half from Mohler's house, -and is situated in the middle of a steep side of a mountain on the bank -of the South river. We crept down the hollow, every one provided with a -taper, and came directly into a space where we could stand up; there -were some beautiful stalactites, mostly in columns. This place is called -the antichamber. Then we arrived at a hall called dragon's room, from a -stalactite, which is said to have the form of a dragon. Several of the -stalactites are not unlike waterfalls; one of them is called Niagara -Falls. - -The following gallery is called the Devil's gallery, from a figure -standing in it; yet I found in this figure more resemblance to a statue -of the virgin, than to that of a devil. - -A whole stratum of the stalactites detached from the roof of the cavern, -was as it were, suspended between heaven and earth, and afforded a fine -view, especially as a new formation of stalactites took place between -the roof and the suspended stratum. - -A narrow hollow passage leads into a more spacious cavern called -Solomon's Temple; here are very singular and mostly foliated transparent -stalactites, hanging from the roof down to the floor. Not far from that -cavern is another, named hide-room, in which the stalactites hang down -in form of hides in a tannery. Then we came into another vault, which is -called the drum-room, because if a stone is thrown against the -stalactites, they give a sound resembling that of a drum. Some of the -stalactites having the form of sticks, and ranged in circles, produce -all the sounds of an octave, if struck with a stick. You pass afterwards -through a narrow passage, by an opening, which looks like an antique -tomb in ruins, and is called Patterson's grave, in commemoration of an -individual of that name who fell in there. By means of a rather rotten -ladder, you come now into a very high smooth saloon, eighty feet long, -called the ball-room, in which benches are placed; I was told that -visitors having ladies with them, entertained themselves here very often -with dancing. Then you ascend another ladder, and creep on all fours -through a narrow hollow, which has been partly enlarged by a mine, when -you arrive at a natural, but very slippery staircase, called Jacob's -ladder, which you descend; then passing through a narrow dungeon, you -get into a more spacious room, named Senate-chamber, when by means of a -rotten ladder you reach a long gallery, called Washington-hall, from a -large stalactite standing in the middle of it, and having the form of a -statue, which is called Washington's statue. - -Not far from this statue, there is a small fountain, the water of which, -though very thirsty, I did not venture to drink, having some days since -experienced bad consequences from drinking water from limestone rocks. -Next to this hall, is a place in which the stalactites covering the -rock, have a shining crystalline-like surface, wherefore this vault is -called the diamond room. Farther on, you get in a large saloon called -the dining room, in which the stalactites represent something not unlike -a side-board set with bottles and tumblers. In Washington-hall there is -a heap of this filtered stone, called the hay-stack, and over it hangs -another stalactite, having the form of a rake. - -From the dining room, we passed into the last cave, that had been -hitherto visited, by the name of Jefferson's-hall, in which are seen -several clefts, and I am persuaded that a new passage could be easily -opened, and new caves discovered. In different spots of the cavern, -where the crust of the stalactites is broken, we saw hollows, which have -not yet been examined. Such an undertaking, seems the more worth while, -as this cave is probably in communication with the Madison's cave, which -was discovered by Jefferson, many years ago, and is in the same -mountain; its entrance being only three hundred yards distant from that -of Wier's cave. - -Wier's cave was discovered in the year 1806, by a German farmer named -Wier; Madison's cave is not any longer visited; it is said also, that -its finest stalactites have been destroyed by the indiscretion of -strangers. - -My attention in Wier's cave, was particularly attracted by plates, which -came off from the roof of the cavern, and hang from it, so that new -stalactites have been formed between them and the roof, the last giving -the others a very singular form. One of these plates looks like a large -shell of mother of pearl,--another, like a looking-glass. The cave is of -course damp, from the dripping of water, but it is less so than I -expected, and less than is the case in such caves in Germany and -England. The temperature was pretty high, and the air very pure. Our -candles burnt with a bright flame, and we felt no difficulty in -breathing. - -From Jefferson's hall, we began our rather difficult retreat, and came -again into day-light, which was already decreasing. - -We spent the rest of the evening with our friendly landlord, by a -chimney fire; he had a bible in folio, printed in Nuremberg in the year -1765, with the portraits of my ancestors, the Grand Duke William IV., -the Grand Duke Bernhard, and others. - -It was interesting to me, to be reminded of my family in such a way, -when in the interior of Virginia, and beyond the Blue Ridge. - -On the 25th of November, we set out for Charlotteville, thirty-two miles -distant, passing over the Blue Ridge. The road is through a country -little cultivated, and without a single village; and the number of -separate houses could scarcely be more than a dozen. After we had gone -about five miles, we arrived at the western base of the Blue Ridge, -which affords an agreeable view, being overgrown with wood up to the -top. Then we entered a narrow valley, and when the road began to ascend, -we alighted and walked over the mountains. I was surprised to find the -road less steep than I expected, and it was also pretty good. From -elevated places, the day being not so foggy as the preceding ones, we -had many fine views of the mountains. The wood consisted of oak trees, -and different kinds of nut trees; here and there were colossal fir, -larch, Weymouth's pine and acacia trees. Evergreen rhododendrons, for -which some amateurs in Europe spend a great deal of money, are growing -here in abundance, also wild vines, which wind themselves round the -trees. The prospect on the mountains would have been more pleasant, had -there been some marks of human dwellings, but we saw only two miserable -log houses, inhabited by dirty and ragged negro families, on the whole -tract for eight miles over the mountains; and we met but a few carts -loaded with flour. - -Having crossed the Blue Ridge, we arrived at a good-looking country -house, and a mill called Brown's Farm, situated at the base of the -mountains, and took our dinner there. This house is surrounded by fields -belonging to it, and from its piazza there is a very fine view of the -mountains. From this place we had yet twenty miles to Charlotteville. -The road became less hilly, at least we had no more mountains to cross; -however, the road continued very rough, and we were rudely jolted. About -eight o'clock in the evening we reached Charlotteville, in which the -houses appeared to be scattered. In its vicinity is a new establishment -for education, called University of Virginia. The next morning we went -to see the university, which is one mile distant from the town. - -This establishment has been open since March, 1824, and it is said to -have already one hundred and thirty students; but a spirit of -insubordination has caused many of the pupils to be sent away. The -buildings are all new, and yet some of them seem to threaten to fall in, -which may be the case with several others also, being chiefly built of -wood. The interior of the library was not yet finished, but according to -its plan it will be a beautiful one. The dome is made after the model of -the Pantheon in Rome, reduced one half. This place is intended for -public meetings of the academy: but it is said that an echo is heard in -case of loud speaking, which renders the voice of the speaker -unintelligible. - -Under the rotunda are three elliptical halls, the destination of which -is not yet entirely determined. The set of columns on the outside of -this building, I was told is to be a very fine one; the capitals were -made in Italy. - -As for the rest, the ten buildings on the right and left are not at all -regularly built, but each of them in a different manner, so that there -is no harmony in the whole, which prevents it from having a beautiful -and majestic appearance. - -The garden walls of the lateral building are also in crooked lines, -which gives them a singular but handsome appearance. The buildings have -been executed according to Mr. Jefferson's plan, and are his hobby; he -is rector of the University, in the construction of which the state of -Virginia is said to have laid out considerable sums of money. - -We addressed a gentleman whom we met by chance, in order to get some -information, and we had every reason to be satisfied with his -politeness. It was Dr. Dunglison, professor of medicine. He is an -Englishman, and came last year with three other professors from Europe. -He showed us the library, which was still inconsiderable, and has been -provisionally arranged in a lecture room; it contained some German -belles lettres works, among others a series of Kotzebue's calendar of -dramatical works. It was said a great quantity of books was coming from -Europe. - -The university is situated on a hill in a very healthy situation, and -there is a very fine view of the Blue Ridge. President Jefferson invited -us to a family dinner; but as in Charlotteville there is but a single -hackney-coach, and this being absent, we were obliged to go the three -miles to Monticello on foot. - -We went by a pathway, through well cultivated and enclosed fields, -crossed a creek named Rivanna, passing on a trunk of a tree cut in a -rough shape, and without rails; then ascended a steep hill overgrown -with wood, and came on its top to Mr. Jefferson's house, which is in an -open space, walled round with bricks, forming an oblong, whose shorter -sides are rounded; on each of the longer sides are portals of four -columns. - -The unsuccessful waiting for a carriage, and our long walk, caused such -a delay, that we found the company at table when we entered; but Mr. -Jefferson came very kindly to meet us, forced us to take our seats, and -ordered dinner to be served up anew. He was an old man of eighty-six -years of age, of tall stature, plain appearance, and long white hair. - -In conversation he was very lively, and his spirits, as also his hearing -and sight, seemed not to have decreased at all with his advancing age. -I found in him a man who retained his faculties remarkably well in his -old age, and one would have taken him for a man of sixty. He asked me -what I had seen in Virginia. I eulogized all the places, that I was -certain would meet with his approbation, and he seemed very much -pleased. The company at the table, consisted of the family of his -daughter, Mrs. Randolph, and of that of the professor of mathematics at -the university, an Englishman, and of his wife. I turned the -conversation to the subject of the university, and observed, that this -was the favourite topic with Mr. Jefferson; he entertained very sanguine -hopes as to the flourishing state of the university in future, and -believed that it, and the Harvard University near Boston, would in a -very short time be the only institutions, where the youth of the United -States would receive a truly classical and solid education. After dinner -we intended to take our leave, in order to return to Charlotteville; but -Mr. Jefferson would not consent to it. He pressed us to remain for the -night at his house. The evening was spent by the fire; a great deal was -said about travels, and objects of natural history; the fine arts were -also introduced, of which Mr. Jefferson was a great admirer. He spoke -also of his travels in France, and the country on the Rhine, where he -was very much pleased. His description of Virginia is the best proof -what an admirer he is of beauties of nature. He told us that it was only -eight months since he could not ride on horseback; otherwise, he rode -every day to visit the surrounding country; he entertained, however, -hopes of being able to re-commence the next spring his favourite -exercise. Between nine and ten o'clock in the evening, the company broke -up, and a handsome room was assigned to me. - -The next morning I took a walk round the house, and admired the -beautiful panorama, which this spot presents. On the left, I saw the -Blue Ridge, and between them and Monticello are smaller hills. -Charlotteville and the University lay at my feet; before me, the valley -of the Rivanna river, which farther on, makes its junction with the -James river, and on my right was the flat part of Virginia, the extent -of which is lost in distance; behind me was a towering hill, which -limited the sight. The interior of the house was plain, and the -furniture somewhat of an old fashion. In the entrance was a marble stove -with Mr. Jefferson's bust, by Ceracchi. In the rooms hung several copies -of the celebrated pictures of the Italian school, views of Monticello, -Mount Vernon, the principal buildings in Washington and Harper's Ferry; -there were also an oil painting, and an engraving of the Natural Bridge, -views of Niagara by Vanderlin, a sketch of the large picture by -Trumbull, representing the surrender at Yorktown, and a pen drawing of -Hector's departure, by Benjamin West, presented by him to General -KOSCIUSZKO, finally, several portraits of Mr. Jefferson, among which the -best was that in profile by Stuart. In the saloon there were two busts, -one of Napoleon as first consul, and another of the Emperor Alexander. -Mr. Jefferson admired Napoleon's military talents, but did not love him. -After breakfast, which we took with the family, we bid the respectable -old man farewell, and set out upon our return on foot to Charlotteville. - -Mr. Jefferson tendered us the use of his carriage, but I declined, as I -preferred walking in a fine and cool morning. In the afternoon we left -Charlotteville, in a tolerably good stage, in order to go to Richmond, -the chief town of Virginia, distant eighty miles. A student was our -travelling companion, and so we had plenty of room. But the stage went -only ten miles to a small tavern situated in a wood, and kept by Mrs. -Boyd. We passed by not far from Monticello, crossed the Rivanna at a -rather deep ford, and remained for some miles on its left bank. The -banks were high and rocky in some places. The road was, for the greatest -part, through a wood, hilly and rough; in some places it was what they -call causeway. - -On the 28th of November we set out at half past two o'clock in the -morning, by moonlight and very cold weather, and went seventy miles to -Richmond. The stage was better, and the road was also better than -formerly. Notwithstanding that the country continued hilly, -a considerable portion of the road was causeway, for the greatest part -of logs, and the country uninteresting. When we approached James river, -along the banks of which we went for some miles, the country grew finer, -and had it been more settled I would have compared it with that on the -Elbe, above Dresden. The ground was in the beginning loamy, then sandy. -We changed horses at isolated taverns. Gordonsville and Goochland were -the only villages through which we passed, and in these villages too the -houses were very scattered, and almost all of them of wood. We rode on -the left bank of James river, and passed by a navigable canal, which is -said to extend in land about eighty miles above Richmond, and appeared -to have been constructed with great care; the wooden bridges were neatly -constructed and solid; an aqueduct of two arches, which conducted the -canal over a brook having high banks, was well built. About eight -o'clock in the evening we reached Richmond, a town of about seventeen -thousand inhabitants of both colours. To judge by the houses, Richmond -must be a wealthy place. We took our lodgings in the Union Hotel, -a large and well-furnished inn. I felt really happy at finding myself -once again in a considerable place, as I was almost unaccustomed to such -a sight. - -We could not depart on the 29th of November, as no steam-boat went in -the direction we wished to take. My design was to go to Yorktown, to see -the remains of an English fortification of the revolutionary war, and -Fort Monroe near Old Point Comfort, and then to travel on farther to -Norfolk, to see the navy-yard, thence to hasten to the south, in order -to make up for the time I spent in Virginia. I took a walk through the -town, to look around, for there was nothing else remarkable to be seen. -The town lies on the left bank of James river, and consists of two -streets, running parallel with the river, and of several insignificant -alleys. The main street, which lies next to the river, is finished, the -other does not contain many houses; the former is probably a mile long, -paved, and has side-walks made of bricks. As they burn coal here, the -city looks nearly black. In the western part of Virginia, they only use -wood. The blacks seem to compose the most numerous part of the -population of that place. It is here where James river becomes -navigable; above the city, navigation is carried on by the -above-mentioned canal, which here joins the river, after having gone -through a large basin, at whose wharves they were yet working. This -canal descends in the city from a considerable height, by means of eight -locks; the sides of the canal between the locks are only made of plank. -On the hill where those locks begin, there is a pretty large basin, -which serves as an harbour for the boats coming from the countries -above, and bound for Richmond. In the vicinity of this basin, I saw a -hollow formed by rocks and full of wooden huts, which were inhabited by -negroes, and exhibited a true picture of human misery. This hollow has -the form of a funnel. In rainy weather, these poor people must probably -suffer a great deal from dampness. Below the locks, you cross James -river on a wooden bridge resting on wooden trestles. From this bridge -you go over a side bridge to a small island, containing a public garden, -and lying in the middle of the river; above the island a ledge of rocks -crosses the river and forms a small cataract; farther up there are said -to be several other falls in the river. - -On a hill which commands the city, stands the state-house, called the -capitol, surrounded by a newly laid out garden; it reminds one of the -Maison Quarrée, at Nismes in France. On one of the smaller sides of the -parallelogram there is a portico of eight Ionic columns. But these -columns are of wood only, and have, when closely inspected, a rather -decayed appearance. On the two long sides, the building has entrances -with steps. In the hall in the middle of the house, there is a full -length marble statue of President Washington, somewhat tasteless. It -represents the great man in uniform; the right hand reposing on a cane, -the left arm on fasces, to which a sword is hanging, and against which -the plough leans. In one of the lateral chambers the court of the United -States was assembled, to try a captain of a merchant vessel, and a -Frenchman by birth. This man had twice sunk his ship, in order to get -the insurance money for it. At one of these sinkings, a lady lost her -life, and on that account the captain was accused of murder. I was sorry -I could not fully understand the debates and speeches of the advocates, -as I heard that the person under trial had the best lawyers for his -defenders. The decision did not follow. - -Behind the capitol stands the court-house, a massive building with a -portico of four Doric stone columns; in the interior of the building I -saw nothing farther remarkable. At several booksellers I asked in vain -for the plan of the city and the surrounding country, also for a -description of the canal. - -We intended to leave Richmond at three o'clock in the morning of the -30th of November, and set out on our projected tour. But, as the -ordinary stage was repairing, they put us in a small carriage with only -two horses, in which it was impossible to carry our baggage. As I would -not part with it, I gave up the tour which I had concluded on, and left -Richmond, in the morning at eight o'clock, on board the steam-boat -Richmond, to descend the James river to Norfolk. In the mean time, I had -an opportunity of noticing the particular manner in which the negroes -are treated. I wished to employ my leisure in writing; when I entered -the room, I found several slaves wrapt up in woollen blankets, sleeping -on the floor by the chimney-fire; upon inquiring, I was told that slaves -never receive a better bed. - -We had one hundred and twenty-two miles to Norfolk, and reached that -city between nine and ten o'clock in the evening. During the whole day -the weather was not clear; on the banks of the meandering James river, -which grows gradually larger, there was not any thing remarkable. The -travelling company was not large, and was composed of incommunicative -persons: I could not exchange a word with any of them. There was no -opportunity of writing, as the engine communicated such a quivering -motion to the whole vessel, that I could hardly hold my pen, and spent -my time in reading. Towards evening we perceived a large stone building -on the left bank, the only remains of James Town, the first English -settlement in Virginia. The following romantic story is related. An -Indian princess, Pocahontas, daughter of a powerful Indian chief on the -banks of this river, whose name was Powhattan, fell in love with the -English Captain Smith, who was the commander of the first settlement at -James Town. This Indian princess swam across the river in a stormy -night, in order to give notice to her lover of the conspiracy of her -father and the principal chiefs, against his life. In this manner she -saved the new settlement, and also twice afterwards under the same -circumstances. However, her lover fell at last into an Indian ambush, -and was to become a victim of the Indians. Then she laid her head down -with his on the block, and once more saved his life. This scene is -represented by a bas relief, which is in the large rotunda in -Washington. Captain Smith was a married man, and on that account could -not, when returning to England, take his benefactress with him; he made -her believe that he was dead, and secretly went on board a ship. Some -time afterwards, Pocahontas married Rolf, who succeeded her lover in the -command of the settlement, and followed him to England. She met once, by -chance, with her first lover in the street, whom she believed to have -been dead, and soon sunk into such a melancholy state, that she left -England, embarked for America, and died on the passage.[I-35] - - [Footnote I-35: She left an only son by her marriage with Rolf, - who settled himself in America, and had two daughters. From these - are descended the families of Randolph and Robinson, and from - these the family of Claiborne, consequently the two eldest - children of Mrs. Grymes, Charles and Sophrone are descendants of - the unfortunate Indian princess. In the two families, Randolph and - Robinson, the eldest son is named Powhattan, and the eldest - daughter Pocahontas. At New Orleans I became acquainted with a - member of the Robinson family who had formerly been governor of - Louisiana.] - -In very disagreeable weather we landed at Norfolk, a city of ten -thousand inhabitants, and took our lodgings in Carr's Hotel, a tolerably -good tavern. I made acquaintance with Mr. Meyau, the French Consul, -a very pleasant man. In his company I went the next day to Fort Monroe, -distant fourteen miles from Norfolk. We went in the Baltimore -steam-boat. It fortunately happened that our steam-boat, with the -steam-boat Richmond, were engaged to tow the frigate Constellation into -Hampton Roads, which could not sail on account of a feeble breeze. This -road is intended to be the principal rendezvous of the United States -navy, and is advantageously situated; it commands the Chesapeake bay, -which is to be connected by a large union canal with the Delaware, and -consequently with Philadelphia, so that the ships built in the navy yard -can go into Hampton Roads, where they will be armed. - -On a point of land called Old Point Comfort, in the above mentioned -road, on which also is a light-house, lies the principal Fort Monroe, -and before it upon the sand-bank Riprap, a small casemated fort called -Calhoun, to command the road or rather the passage from a nearer point. -To prevent this position from being turned on its right wing by a land -army, all the dry points between Norfolk and the surrounding -impracticable marshes are to be fortified, and a large central arsenal -with dry-docks is to be erected farther backwards in the bay, in order -to receive a whole fleet after a battle, and fit it out there. The -frigate Constellation, under the command of Captain Woolsey, was -designed for the West India station, called the pirate station; the -principal object being to suppress these wretches. The frigate is one of -the oldest ships, and served in the last war, but being blockaded in -Hampton roads, could not come to any engagement. She is what they call a -thirty-six gun ship, but carries forty-eight pieces, thirty-two -pounders, and caronades of the same calibre. The guns were almost all -from the captured English frigate Macedonian. - -We passed by a small fortified Island, called Crany Island, and by a -fort on our right, both rendered useless, since Fort Monroe was built, -and their works will be demolished; we approached the Constellation, our -steam-boat on her left side, where she was made fast with cables. The -steam-boat Richmond did the same on the right of the frigate. Captain -Woolsey finding that I was on board of the boat, had the kindness to -invite me on board the frigate. His cabin was in the forepart of the -gundeck; and was very neat, having four guns in it. The after-cabin was -arranged as a parlour and contained two cabinets, all tastefully -contrived. The officers had their lodgings below, as in a ship of the -line. I was very much pleased with the great neatness and general order -that prevailed. Even by the sentry at the captain's door was placed a -spit-box, and every thing of iron or copper, shone like mirrors. Instead -of the ordinary and very often incorrect hour-glasses of our ships, -there was by the sentry a chronometer, for the purpose of calling the -hour. We came on board, as the last anchor was lifted, and then -proceeded, being towed by the two boats till we came opposite Fort -Monroe; where, on account of the feeble breeze, the anchor was dropped, -and the steam-boats continued on their way. - -Captain Woolsey gave us a boat with twelve oars, under the command of a -midshipman, to carry us to Fort Monroe. A guard composed of thirty -marines was under arms, and made a military salute, whilst the frigate -saluted me with seventeen guns. When we landed we stopped at a very good -tavern, where we found two majors of artillery. After dinner we went to -survey the fortress, which General Bernard planned; but the work was yet -far from being completed. The fortress consists of a bastioned heptagon, -which can be attacked from land, but by a single front. The sides facing -the sea, are entirely casemated, and every gun has its particular arch. -On the most dangerous side where the ships of the enemy can approach the -land, there is on the counterscarp, a casemated coast-battery protected -by the fire of heavy guns on the rampart. This battery on the -counterscarp was built temporarily of wood, like a block-house, and -served the garrison for quarters. The coping is of granite, found in the -vicinity of Washington. The arches are of brick. The government does not -build by contract, but by measure, what the French call _au mètre cube_; -whereby it obtains good work. The masons work only is performed by hired -workmen, mostly by blacks; other work is done by military prisoners, who -have been condemned by court martial to public labours. The garrison -consists of eleven companies of artillery, which form a provisional -regiment, and are under the command of Colonel Fenwick, and -Lieutenant-Colonel Eustis. The first officer I became acquainted with, -at General Brown's in Washington, where he is still residing. To the -latter I was recommended by Lieutenant-Colonel Bankheard from New York. -Mr. Eustis invited me to stay till to-morrow, in order to show me his -regiment; but I was obliged to decline his invitation on account of -time. - -We availed ourselves of the opportunity, which the steam-boat Potomac -presented coming from Washington to go to Norfolk, and went on board of -her in a boat rowed by artillerists. About nine o'clock, P. M. we landed -in Norfolk, all day we had disagreeable rainy weather. I designed to -stay longer in order to see the navy-yard in Gosport, a mile distant -from Norfolk; Mr. Meyau would accompany me. The landlord, who was -willing to derive as much advantage as possible from my presence, had -advertised in the papers, he would on that day give a dinner of -turtle-soup, game, wild ducks, &c, but it was written in the book of -fate, that I should not partake of these dainties. On inquiring, I was -told that the mail stage was the only ordinary means of communication -with the south, and went only on Tuesdays and Fridays to Fayetteville, -and consequently if we did not leave Norfolk in half an hour, we should -be obliged to wait until the next Tuesday. This not at all agreeing with -my travelling plan, and as a hired coach could not be procured, I packed -up my baggage in great haste, bid the friendly Mr. Meyau farewell, and -left Norfolk at half past ten o'clock in the mail stage, connected with -the Baltimore steam-boat. - -We went sixty-eight miles to Murfreesborough, where we arrived about -eleven o'clock in the evening. We crossed at first two small inlets of -the bay, on very long wooden bridges, passed through Portsmouth, a small -place near the navy-yard, where I saw the ship of the line Delaware, and -the frigate Macedonian, taken from the British, in ordinary, but had no -time to examine this very interesting establishment. We had scarcely -left this place when we entered a forest, through which we travelled -during the day. The country is a large marsh, called the Dismal Swamp, -crossed by a sandy road. The forest is very thick, and consists of oak -trees, among which I noticed the live oak, cypress, cedar and pine -trees; on the marshy spots there are evergreen trees, and bushes of the -Portuguese laurel and holly; here and there were also magnolias, and -large wild vines around the trees. This variety of vegetation must look -very fine in the summer season, however I was told that at that time -flies and mosquetos were very troublesome, and that there are also a -great many snakes. This marsh is said to be full of bears, which, -however, never attack men. In Suffolk, twenty-eight miles from Norfolk, -a small place, having wooden houses, and situated in the middle of the -forest, we took our dinner. The wheat bread became scarce by degrees, -and in its place we had a sort of cakes made of Indian corn. On the -other side of Suffolk, we passed by a cotton plantation, the first I -saw. It was already night when we passed the boundary and entered on the -territory of North Carolina. We crossed the rivers Nottoway and Meherrin -in bad and narrow ferry-boats, which were very dangerous, as the night -was very dark. Candles and lamps seem to be here very scarce; for the -few houses that we passed by were lighted with torches of pine: we took -some of them to light our way. Our journeying was very unpleasant, on -account of a rainy and very dark night. We alighted in Murfreesborough -at a tolerably good inn. - -On the 3d of December, at two o'clock, A. M., we set out in dreadful -rainy weather, which lasted all day, and travelled as far as Emerson's -tavern, seventy-five miles distant. The country still continued woody as -yesterday, and in frequent marshy spots, presented to the eye a very -pleasant variety by the evergreen trees and bushes. In some places the -country was somewhat cultivated; that is, there were some plantations -where cotton and Indian corn were raised. Such a plantation consists -only of wooden buildings; in the middle is the house of the planter, -with a piazza; on its right and left are log-houses for negro slaves, -and barns for corn and cotton. Horses are kept in very spacious wooden -stables; cows and pigs in the open air within an enclosure of worm -fences. Only fattening beasts are kept in stables. In many plantations -we saw cotton-gins, in which the seed is separated from the cotton by -means of a cylindrical hackle. These mills are worked either by water or -horses. The cotton cleaned from its seed is put into a large chest, -pressed in, and packed up. In the chest is a bag, which receives the -cotton; the cover of the chest is moveable, and is pressed on the cotton -by means of a screw turned by two horses; afterwards the cover is taken -away, the bag closed, and the bale which it forms fastened with ropes; -such a bale weighs on an average three hundred pounds. This is a very -troublesome work, and only two bales can be made in a day. If instead of -that awkward machine, they would make use of Brahmah's water press, -a great deal of time, expense and power would be spared. The bagging -made use of is wove in England. We crossed the Roanoke river in a rather -bad ferry-boat. The banks of the river are really picturesque, and -covered with a variety of southern plants, which reminded one of a park. -We dined at a very good tavern in a small town called Tarborough, -situated on the river of the same name. We had already crossed this -river, and were delighted with its fine banks. Our lodgings were at a -solitary plantation, where we arrived at eight o'clock in the evening; -the house was entirely of wood, except the chimney. It was rather -transparent; they assigned us a garret for a sleeping place, and through -the cracks in the floor we could see into the room below. If fire once -breaks out in such a house, it cannot be saved. In the morning we passed -by the smoking rubbish of a school-house, which burned down in an hour; -the brick chimney alone was standing. The log-houses of the negro slaves -in particular are very open, and present by night when lighted with pine -splinters a very singular appearance. The road was thoroughly sandy; -however, it was interrupted by log causeways, which are made over the -marshy spots, in passing which in the mail stage we were shaken to -pieces. The small town of Tarborough where we dined, is said to contain -eight hundred inhabitants, is regularly built, has broad streets, but -its houses are of wood. I saw but two built of brick; had there been -more brick houses, I should have compared this pleasant place to a -village in Holland. - -The next morning, at three o'clock, we left our airy lodgings and went -eighty-six miles to Fayetteville. During the day we travelled through a -thick forest, and did not meet with a single village; we saw some lonely -plantations of corn and cotton. During several days we saw different -species of birds, unknown to me, especially a great many large vultures, -called buzzards, the shooting of which is prohibited, as they feed upon -carrion, and contribute in this manner to the salubrity of the country. -We crossed the Neuse, a rather wide river, in a narrow and clumsy -ferry-boat. On the banks of this river, are many evergreen trees and -bushes. The oak trees are here not very high, but there is a great -variety of them: thirty-seven species are enumerated; chesnut and nut -trees are not so numerous; we were told they were common only in -mountainous countries. At a short distance from Fayetteville, where we -arrived about nine o'clock, P. M., we crossed Cape Fear river, by a long -covered bridge, consisting of hanging lattice work, of which I saw a -very good model in the patent-office at Washington. As I was very much -fatigued with the uncomfortable travelling, I intended to stay one day -in Fayetteville, a flourishing place of about four thousand inhabitants. -But I was told that no opportunity would occur sooner than three days -for Charleston. Therefore I resolved to continue our journey next -morning. A new difficulty now arose; the mail stage going directly to -Charleston, had only two horses, and could not take my baggage, whilst -the mail for the above city passing through Columbia, South Carolina, -drives four. Although the first was the direct road, and the second a -circuitous one, I resolved to take the latter. - -On the 8th of December, at three o'clock in the morning, we set out from -Fayetteville, and travelled for fifty-seven miles to Cheraw, in the -state of South Carolina, where we arrived at seven o'clock in the -evening. Our travelling company was increased in Fayetteville, by Mr. -Davis from Columbia, a young gentleman very well educated. The weather -was pretty cold, but not rainy. The way continued still through forests, -and was very sandy. We saw little interesting, except the vegetation. -We discovered new plants progressively as we advanced to the south, for -instance, jessamines and a tree hitherto unknown to me, called pride of -China, melia azedarach, which is generally seen near the houses; there -were also gum-trees. We crossed several rivers, the most considerable of -which were the great and the little Pedee, near Cheraw. In this place I -met with Commodores Bainbridge and Warrington, and Captain Biddle; these -gentlemen were appointed commissioners by the government, to determine a -place for a naval establishment on the Gulf of Mexico, becoming every -day of greater importance to the United States. They came from Pensacola -to Savannah by sea, whence they went to Washington by land. Commodore -Warrington, however, was to return to the Gulf of Mexico, where he -commanded the station. I was very much pleased with their acquaintance -and spent the evening with them. On the 6th of December, at three, A. M. -we left Cheraw and went to Camden, sixty-eight miles. We continually -rode through a thick wood. It had frozen very hard the preceding night, -and the cold continued still in the morning; but the sun appeared, it -grew warmer, and the day became very fine, as in spring. The increasing -blue of the sky, indicated that we were rapidly advancing towards the -south. The plants were much the same, but the magnolias of different -kinds, became gradually larger. Our meals showed us that we were in a -country, were rice is cultivated. - -Black creek and two branches of Lynch's creek were the most considerable -streams. The country on these creeks, on account of their evergreen -vegetation pleased me very much. The ground was sandy, and we went very -slowly on. We breakfasted and dined in solitary frame houses, which -stand upon pillars built of bricks, and permit the air to pass under -them, the walls of these buildings are so thin and disjoined, that the -daylight finds access every where. At the openings for windows, there is -nothing but shutters. It would be a good speculation to establish a -glass manufactory in this country, where there is such a want of glass, -and a superabundance of pine trees and sand. About eight o'clock in the -evening we reached Camden, a flourishing place, where we found a very -good abode. The nights were very clear; some time since I saw quite new -constellations, whilst the old ones disappeared by degrees. - -On the 7th of December, at three o'clock in the morning, we set out in -severe cold weather for Columbia. The road was as on the preceding days, -but the country grew more hilly, the sand more yellow, and mingled with -clay. We crossed the Wateree river in a small boat with much difficulty. -We reached the river by break of day. The driver often blew his horn, -nevertheless we had to wait about half an hour for the ferry-boat. At -last it came, manned by two negroes. But scarcely was the carriage in it -when another misery began. We were sitting on a bench, and the negroes -were obliged to work for half an hour before we were again afloat. -Finally, we reached the opposite shore, but the negroes were so awkward, -that they took more than a quarter of an hour, to place the boat in such -a situation as to permit the carriage to get out. We reached Columbia -about one o'clock in the afternoon, and took lodgings at Clark's hotel, -a large but merely tolerable house. We were obliged to content ourselves -with the narrowness of our lodgings, for the legislature of the state -was just assembled in that place, and all the houses were full. It is -only forty years since the city was laid out; it contains four hundred -inhabitants, is situated very pleasantly upon an eminence, below the -confluence of Saluda and Broad rivers which form the Congaree by their -junction. The town is built very regularly, contains a great number of -brick houses, and its streets, crossing each other at right angles, are -one hundred feet broad; though not paved, they are provided with large -side-walks, and rows of pride of China trees. In the surrounding gardens -of many elegant private houses, I saw a great number of evergreen trees, -mostly laurels, and also some pretty high _yucca gloriosa_, which they -call here palmetto. In Columbia there are many well-provisioned stores, -and there seemed to be a great deal of life in the place. At the common -table where many of the deputies were dining, I made acquaintance with a -Mr. Washington, from Charleston, to whom I had letters from Baltimore. -He made me immediately acquainted with several of the members of the -legislature. The governor of the state, Mr. Manning, sent me his -compliments by Mr. Butler, his aid, and invited me to an evening party. -Towards the evening Mr. Washington, a distant relation of the president, -and son of Colonel Washington, distinguished in the revolutionary war, -accompanied me to see Judge Desaussure, one of the principal men of this -city and state, to whom also, I had letters, and found in him a -respectable old gentleman. His father was a native of Lausanne, in -Switzerland, and uncle of the celebrated naturalist Desaussure. I met at -his house a large company of gentlemen, who had dined there, and became -acquainted with the governor, a very fine man. After the company had -retired, Judge Desaussure accompanied me to one of his step son's, -Colonel Blanding, civil engineer, who has the reputation of being a man -of great knowledge. The habit of chewing tobacco, practised by several -of the gentlemen, and in which they indulge even when in the society of -ladies, appeared remarkable to me. The society was numerous, and -composed of many ladies; I became acquainted with two Professors of -Columbia College, Messrs. Henry and Nott; the first is acquainted with -the French and German languages, he has translated Niebuhr's Roman -History into English. Mr. Nott studied in England and France, resided -for some time in Ghent, and married a lady of Brussels. From Mr. -Blanding's house we went to the governor's, where again a large company -was assembled to a ball. No other dances but cotillions were danced, -in the manner of the tedious German quadrilles; the band consisted of -negroes. The governor, who in this state is elected for two years, and -his lady, did the honours exceedingly well; he introduced me to all -present, gentlemen and ladies. The acquaintance I made with a Frenchman, -Mons. Herbemont, was very interesting to me; he has been an inhabitant -of the United States for more than forty years, was formerly Professor -of Botany in Columbia College, and now lives upon his income. The -company remained together until the evening. - -On the next morning I received visits from Messrs. Desaussure and -Herbemont, who came with the design of showing me the few curiosities of -the city. We went at first to see the water-works, which provide the -whole city with water. In a hollow place there is a basin, or rather a -reservoir, to which several fountains have been conducted. From this -reservoir the water is pumped by means of a steam-engine having two -horse-power, and driven into the city, which is situated one hundred and -thirty feet above it. The water is distributed in the different parts of -the town by pipes, which are in the middle of the streets. At different -places the tubes are provided with fire-plugs, constructed according to -the plan of Mr. Blanding. - -Afterwards we went to see the state-house, a large wooden building, -which will probably in a few years be replaced by one of stone. In one -of the halls of the state-house, the senators, forty in number, were -assembled under the presidency of Mr. Johns; in another were the hundred -and twenty representatives: the speaker was Mr. O'Neil. The halls are -very plain. The senators as well as the representatives, sit in a -semicircle, and the speaker in a more elevated place in the middle. -During my presence, the debates in both chambers were on no interesting -subjects, therefore I did not stay long. In the senate chamber hung two -pictures of no great excellence, by an artist of Charleston: the battle -of Eutaw in the revolutionary war, under General Greene, and the defence -of the lines at New Orleans, by General Jackson. In a few days an -interesting object was to be taken into consideration, namely, the -question if the government of the United States have the right to lay -out canals and public roads in the different states of the union, or -not! Reasonable men conceive that the government must have the power to -execute such works; on the other hand, the short-sighted, from certain -envy between the states, dispute this right with the government. The -jealousy between the states seems to take the upper hand. The state of -South Carolina intended to make a public road, leading from Charleston -westwards to the state of Tennessee; this road would have passed for -some miles through the state of North Carolina, the state of North -Carolina opposed its execution, under the pretext that the road would -not bring sufficient profit to the last state, although the two first -states would have executed it at their own expense. The true reason of -this opposition is said to be that the advantage of that road to the -state of South Carolina, was grudged by the other states. - -From the state-house we went to Columbia College; it is an university, -but has neither medical nor theological faculties. There are six -professors. Dr. Cooper is the president, with whom I became acquainted -last summer in Boston: on his return home, he was taken sick in -Richmond. - -The number of students was one hundred and twenty, who live in two large -buildings, opposite each other; between them is the house of the -President, and on both sides the houses of the professors. We paid a -visit to Mr. Vanuxem, Professor of Natural History. He showed us the -collection of minerals belonging to the college, but not so interesting -as the collection of minerals of South Carolina, made by him last -summer. There were several fine tourmalines, emeralds, pyrites -containing gold; a new kind of metal called Columbian, asbestus and -different specimens of primitive rocks. There was also pure gold from -North Carolina, which was only discovered about six years ago. When at -Cheraw, I was willing to make an excursion to the gold mine, but it -would have taken me a couple of days. I was told, gold is found in a -slime, which is dried up and then sifted, the gold dust remaining in the -sieve. But miners are expected from Germany, and at their arrival, they -will begin a regular exploration. It is said, that at present the -company has a profit of twenty dollars a week. I visited also the -library, which was not considerable, and did not contain any thing -remarkable. On this occasion I made acquaintance with a Mr. Elliott, who -had published a Flora of the state of South Carolina; he extolled the -botanical treasures of that state. A small observatory was shut up; -perhaps they would not show it to me, because there were but few -instruments. - -In Mr. Herbemont's garden, we saw some very interesting plants and -trees; magnolias, gardenias, pomegranate and other fruit trees, which he -had grafted in a very singular manner one upon another; date palm trees -and fig trees, raised from kernels, and a great number of evergreen -laurel trees. - -A mile from the city, on the left bank of the Congaree river is a canal -three miles in length, to avoid some rapids, which are in the river. -This canal has four locks, and the difference of the level of the water -above and below them, is thirty-six feet. Two are built of granite, -which is obtained close to the canal. Several blocks have been blown up, -to make way for the canal. The other two are of brick, and the mason -work appeared to me to have been well executed. They were just building -a wooden bridge over the Congaree, in order to lead to Augusta; the -bridge was to be supported by eight piers of stone. They are made of -granite without any lime or cement.[I-36] The exterior stones were -chiseled and connected with cramp-irons. The undertaking was contracted -for at seventy thousand dollars. - - [Footnote I-36: Because they would be obliged to bring it from the - northern states at a great expense.] - -Not far from the bridge are several cotton plantations belonging to the -wealthy family of Taylor. On one of these fields the harvest was just -making by fifty-eight negroes of both sexes. They take the cotton by -hand from the capsules, look at it, that no withered leaves may be -attached to it, and throw it into bags, which are hanging before them; -afterwards they shake the cotton from the bags into baskets which are -prepared for that purpose. These negroes made a very disagreeable -impression upon me, especially when some of the women asked Mr. -Herbemont for some chewing tobacco. I saw here some fine oak and pine -trees, the latter are very abundant in all the woods we lately passed -through. They have extremely long leaves; the young shoots particularly -have a fine appearance. The leaves are more than a foot in length, and -the shoot looks like the bunch of horse-hairs on the caps of the -Prussian grenadiers. On the trees hangs a long moss-like plant called -Spanish beard. They pick up this plant, put it into water, to rot the -grayish bark, and employ the black fibres which then make their -appearance, like horse-hair, for making mattresses, which are even -exported to Europe. Finally, we saw several aromatic and medicinal -herbs, for instance, the _monarda punctata_, the juice of which, mixed -with that of an onion, is said to be very efficacious in gravel -complaints. - -The Lunatic Asylum of Columbia is situated in an open place out of the -city. It consists of a principal building adorned with a portico of six -columns. In this building are lodgings for the inspectors, offices, and -rooms for persons of moderate fortune. Two wings are connected with the -principal building, and form obtuse angles with it, each of them is -three stories high, in which the lunatics are placed. By degrees, as the -income of the establishment increases, other wings will be built, and -the whole will form an octagon. There is on the principal building a -spire, from which is a very extensive view, though you see nothing else -but woods. The distempered in mind will find here many conveniences when -the buildings are completed: namely, good rooms, gardens, and walking -places on balconies, inclosed with high walls. - -A Catholic chapel in Gothic style has been built in Columbia by -subscription, but the amount collected, being not sufficient, a lottery -has been opened to obtain the deficiency! Next to the chapel is a -theatre, which likewise is unfinished by the undertaker, on account of -insufficiency of funds. - -At Professor Henry's, a very agreeable society assembled at dinner. At -that party I observed a singular manner which is practised; the ladies -sit down by themselves at one of the corners of the table. But I broke -the old custom, and glided between them: and no one's appetite was -injured thereby. - -I spent one evening at a ball given by Mr. Taylor, a rich proprietor, at -one of his plantations. I found there a numerous and splendid society. -But the music was of a singular kind; for the blacks, who two days ago -played very well at the governor's, were now drunk, and could not make -their appearance. This was the reason that the whole music consisted of -two violins and a tamborine. This tamborine was struck with a terrible -energy. The two others scraped the violin, in the truest signification -of the word; one of them cried out the figures, imitating with his body -all the motions of the dance. The whole of it amused me much; for the -rest, I was astonished at the great plainness of the house. Besides the -first room, there were three rooms open, which had white walls, and were -without window-curtains. - - -END OF VOL. I. - - - * * * * * - * * * * - * * * * * - - - TRAVELS - - through - NORTH AMERICA, - - during the - YEARS 1825 AND 1826. - - * * * - - By His Highness, - BERNHARD, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR EISENACH. - - * * * - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - * * * - - VOL. II. - - * * * - - PHILADELPHIA: - CAREY, LEA & CAREY--CHESNUT STREET. - - * * * - - 1828. - - - - - Skerrett--Ninth Street, - Philadelphia. - - - - -TRAVELS, _&c._ - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - _Journey to Charleston, and Residence in that City-- from the 11th - to the 19th of December, 1825._ - - -On the 11th of December, we were prepared before five o'clock to travel -in the mail stage from Columbia to Charleston, one hundred and twenty -miles distant. Unfortunately, our coachman had, the evening before, -involved himself in a quarrel with a watchman, who attempted to arrest -his sable Dulcinea, and given him a stab with a knife. It was feared -that the watchman, who was the father of a family, would die. The -coachman was immediately taken into custody. We were, consequently, -obliged to remain till seven o'clock, since the contractor of the mail -stage was unable to find another white driver sooner, and according to -law, no negro could convey the United States' mail. - -Our company was very pleasant; I especially remarked a Mr. Bacott, from -Charleston, and young Mr. Ramsay, as being well-informed men. Three -miles below Columbia, we crossed the Congaree in a wretched boat, and on -the right bank of the river, passed through a little place called -Granby, which formerly had been a German settlement, called Saxe-Gotha. -The road was, without exception, sandy, swampy, and at times hilly. The -stage travelled very slowly, and for the greater part of the way, I left -it behind, being on foot. It was nearly a continued forest, composed -mostly of pine and oak trees, from which the Spanish moss hung in such -quantities, that the appearance was far from agreeable. The number of -the magnolia, kalmia, and gardenia trees increased, and also of the -_yucca gloriosa_, which until now were situated principally in the -neighbourhood of the dwellings. We also saw more live oaks here, of -which the timber is uncommonly excellent for ship-building, because it -does not rot, and cannon-shot in striking it produce no splinters. -Towards evening, we passed the village of Orangeburg, with wooden -houses. We supped in a solitary house, and at the same time met the mail -stage coming from Charleston, in which we took seats. It had been built -for General La Fayette, and was named the La Fayette stage. We proceeded -through the whole night: the day had been pleasant, the night, however, -was extremely cold: I suffered considerably, as I sat upon the -coach-box, where I always took my seat, for the advantage of free air -and prospect. - -We travelled during the forenoon of the 12th of December, constantly -through a forest. The number of live oaks increased, and they were -really beautiful. The solitary fan-like macaw trees, which we took -notice of, were small. The yuccas multiplied every moment. The last -place before reaching Charleston, was Dorchester. We then passed by an -old church, nearly in ruins, called St. Andrews, which has survived -since the time of the English government. It stands in the midst of a -venerable church-yard, under lofty live oaks and hickories, with -palmettoes and macaw trees growing between the graves. The whole had a -picturesque aspect. The plantations succeeded each other more -frequently, presented a more agreeable appearance, and every thing -showed marks of the proximity of a large city. At length, in the -afternoon, we left the continued forest, and entered upon an open swampy -district. Charleston extended before us. The city, distinguished as a -seaport, lies upon a tongue of land, formed by the rivers Ashley and -Cooper: we crossed the Ashley to reach the city. A causeway, constructed -of fascines, passes through the swamp to the ferry. The river is -three-quarters of a mile broad; we crossed it in an eight-horse -team-boat. A wooden bridge, which formerly crossed the river here, was -destroyed by a severe storm, and never again rebuilt. Upon the right -bank, in the vicinity of Charleston, an entirely novel spectacle -expanded itself to my view. The houses of the suburb, were, for the most -part, surrounded by gardens, in which orange trees, with most splendid -ripe fruit, monthly roses in full bloom, and a variety of other -flourishing plants displayed themselves. The greater part of the -habitations have piazzas and spacious balconies. Upon the walls and -columns run creeping vines, we took notice of a great number of passion -flowers. I felt delighted with this southern climate. - -Charleston has a population of forty thousand inhabitants, about -twenty-five thousand of these are free. The city is regularly built, the -streets cross each other at right angles. The smallest streets are -paved, all have brick side-walks. The paving-stone is imported from the -northern states, on this account it is an expensive article, and the -paving of the streets can only be gradually effected. In the suburb we -passed through a street which was a log causeway. The principal part of -the houses are, it is true, built of wood, and all are, as I am told, -covered with shingles, on account of the frequent prevalence of severe -tempests; the more recent are, however, of brick, and in very good -taste. I took up my abode in Jones's Hotel, a well supported and finely -situated house, whose host was a mulatto. I had the pleasure to meet -here with Colonel Wool, inspector-general of the army, with whom I -became acquainted in Washington. I moreover made acquaintance with Mr. -Bee, an elderly gentleman who had travelled much, to whom I had letters; -also the late governor of the state, Mr. Wilson, with his young and -accomplished lady, from New York, who, besides her native language, -spoke French, German, Spanish, and Italian, and understood Latin and -Greek; lastly, Major Massias, army paymaster. - -A severe catarrh obliged me to remain at home a whole day. The weather -was also unpleasant and stormy; Fahrenheit's thermometer had fallen to -twenty degrees, which degree of cold is here extremely uncommon. In the -meantime, I received visits from a number of the distinguished -inhabitants: from Dr. Tidyman, whom I had known in Philadelphia; from -Mr. Lowndes, to whom I had introductory letters; from Dr. Johnson, mayor -of the city; from Messrs. Pitray and Viel, French merchants; from the -Marquis De Fougères, French consul; from Mr. Bacott, with whom I had -arrived yesterday, and from Major Massias. Some extremely interesting -strangers were also in the hotel, so that I did not lack entertainment. -The following was related to me:--Some years previous, the negroes of -the country engaged in a conspiracy to murder all the white males, and -spare none but the females. This design was found out, and it was -discovered that the original projectors were free negroes out of the -limits of the state, who travelled in the northern section of the union, -and in part were become Methodist preachers. They had returned home and -preached freedom to the slave population. Since that period the -legislature of this state has adopted very severe precautionary laws -against free negroes and mulattoes. One of them is, that no individual -of this description, if he have once left the state, shall be permitted -to return. The wife of our host, Jones, found herself in this -predicament. She had undertaken a voyage to New York, her native city, -and now dared not to attempt a return. On this account, I was informed, -had I brought a free black servant with me, he would have been taken -from me, and put in custody till I should have left the state, or I must -deposit a considerable security for him. - -I made my first excursion abroad in company with Colonel Wool and Major -Massias, in a boat to Fort Moultrie, where the Colonel had to inspect -two companies of the third regiment of artillery, lying there in -garrison. This fort is situated at the entrance of Charleston Bay, upon -a peninsula, Sullivan's Island, which is connected with the continent by -a marshy strip of land. The vessels running into the bay are compelled -to pass within reach of the cannon of this fort. It is four miles -distant from the city, and lies about half way from each extremity of -the peninsula. Opposite is the coast battery, with a stone parapet. This -battery can receive fifty pieces of cannon. There will be no further -disbursements for the maintenance of this fort, since new works, after -plans of General Bernard, are to be placed at the entrance of the -passage, to guard against too close a blockade of the bay, so that the -ancient and more retired posts will be deprived of all their importance. -Between the city and Sullivan's Island, on a point of land to the left, -stands a defensive work called Castle Pinckney, resembling Castle Garden -in New York, on the right is situated Castle Johnson. Sullivan's Island -is exceedingly sandy, nothing but cabbage trees grow upon it, so that I -seemed transported to India. Outside the fort there are a number of -slight built wooden houses, which, during the heats of summer, and -especially when the yellow fever prevails in Charleston, are occupied by -the inhabitants of that city, for the peninsula has the reputation of -being healthier, and much more temperate in climate. The trunk of the -cabbage-tree affords a good porous timber, which is peculiarly valuable -for building in salt water, since it is not injured by it. It is highly -recommended for entrenchments, as the balls of the enemy cannot splinter -it. On the same spot where Fort Moultrie now stands, a fortress of the -same name stood in the revolutionary war, which was built in great haste -from trunks of the cabbage-tree, and maintained itself with great glory. -We had a boat, attached to the artillery, prepared for our passage, -which was manned by the artillerists. These are exercised as oarsmen in -all posts situated on the water, and this is certainly a good -arrangement, if the officers do not abuse the privilege. Our boat's crew -had unfortunately made too spirituous a breakfast, the oars of course -moved as Providence guided them, and the colonel was so irritated, that -he dispatched the whole six on landing to the black hole. I remained -during the parade of the two artillery companies in garrison. A company -of this description is with matrosses and cannoneers, fifty-five strong; -from these are subtracted, the sentinels, sick, and those under arrest, -so that both corps had scarcely sixty men under arms. The privates had -fire-arms and cartridge boxes, and the matrosses and corporals alone -carried side-arms. The haversack consisted of a wooden box, covered with -black waxed linen. They wore grey pantaloons, and boots, as our -artillery; the officers alone had white cloth pantaloons. The coats were -not well made, and did not fit; all the men had large shirt collars, -which had a bad effect, and gloves of a different pattern, because each -individual bought for himself. While the colonel was going through the -inspection, I took a walk on the ramparts with Major Massias, and -visited the officer's quarters. In the chamber of a lieutenant, in which -we stopped, I found, besides the books belonging to service, a small -library of English belles lettres, and classical poets. - -Charleston keeps in pay a company of police soldiers, who during the -night occupy several posts. They have their guard house near Jones's -Hotel, and I was startled to hear the retreat and reveillé beat there. -This corps owes its support to the fear of the negroes. At nine o'clock -in the evening a bell is sounded; and after this no negro can venture -without a written permission from his master, or he will immediately be -thrown into prison, nor can his owner obtain his release till next day, -by the payment of a fine. Should the master refuse to pay this fine, -then the slave receives twenty-five lashes, and a receipt, with which he -is sent back to his master! - -The market consists of five houses, in a long street ending upon the -harbour, and resemble somewhat those of the Philadelphia market. The -quantity of the most beautiful tropical fruit therein arranged, oranges -from Florida, pistachios, and large excellent pine apples from Cuba, -interested me much. These large and delicious fruit cost only twelve and -a half cents each, of course a dollar for eight. There were nuts of -various descriptions; many sorts of potatoes, cabbages, and white and -red radishes. Fish were not presented in so great a variety as I -expected. Of shell-fish, I saw oysters only, which are roasted in the -shell at market, and consumed by the negroes with great avidity. Upon -the roofs of the market houses sat a number of buzzards, who are -supported by the offals. It is a species of vulture, black, with a naked -head. Seen from a distance they resemble turkeys, for which reason they -are denominated turkey-buzzards. They are not only suffered as very -useful animals, but there is a fine of five dollars for the killing of -one of these birds. A pair of these creatures were so tame that they -crept about in the meat market among the feet of the buyers. - -Accompanied by Dr. Johnson, Mr. Lowndes, and Dr. Tidyman, I visited the -public institutions of the city. The Court-house, in which the different -courts of justice hold their sessions, contains nothing remarkable with -the exception of the City Library in the upper story, established by -subscription. I noticed in this a beautiful collection of copperplates -from the Shakspeare Gallery, and a sketched plan of Charleston with the -investment of it in the revolutionary war. Since this epoch the city has -much extended itself. On the localities, which then were occupied by -fortifications, houses are now standing. The morasses which covered the -left wing of these works, are filled up level with earth, and no trace -of them is perceivable. - -In the City Hall, the lower story is occupied by one large saloon. It is -appropriated to the sittings of the city police. Above it are arranged -the meeting rooms of the magistracy and various separate offices. In one -of these apartments I noticed an elegant new plan of the city, designed -by an emigrant French engineer, Mr. Petitral. - -The Orphan-house is a brick building, three stories high, erected by -voluntary contributions, and in it, one hundred and thirty-six children -of both sexes are supported. I was surprized at the exceeding -cleanliness pervading the whole establishment. The children sleep upon -the floor, and the girls and sick only are allowed mattresses; the boys -have a woollen coverlet, in which they wrap themselves. I was informed -that this was done from fear of vermin. A very nourishing diet, and a -truly maternal care, preserve the children healthy. At their twelfth -year, they are provided for abroad to enable them to earn their own -subsistence. Many of the boys enter into the United States navy, and it -has been reported to me that two of the pupils of this institution have -attained the rank of officers. Behind the house is a moderately large -chapel, in the midst of the garden. The clergy of all Christian -professions can hold divine service here every Sunday afternoon; in the -mornings, the service in turn is taken charge of by a superintendent. -In front of the building is a large open square. In it stands an -ill-preserved statue of Lord Chatham, which was erected by the then -colony of South Carolina, before the breaking out of the American -revolution, in memory of that great man, in gratitude for the opposition -he maintained against colonial taxation. An inscription on the statue -mentions this. During the siege, it stood at the corner of the street, -near the City Hall. There it lost an arm by one of the first English -balls that struck the city. - -The state prison is a small building. The prisoners are too much crowded -together, and have no employment. The atrocious criminals live in the -upper story, and are immured two together in a cell, without ever being -permitted to come into the open air. This is allowed only to those -dwelling in the first story, consisting of debtors, and persons who are -imprisoned for breaches of the peace. The walls within, as well as the -flooring, are of strong oak wood. In each apartment is an iron ring in -the floor, for the purpose of securing dangerous prisoners. In the upper -story there is a negro confined, who, implicated in one of the late -conspiracies, had not committed himself so far as to allow of his being -hung; nevertheless, his presence appeared so dangerous to the public -tranquillity, that he is detained in prison till his master can find -some opportunity to ship him to the West Indies, and there sell him. In -another room was a white prisoner, and it is not known whether he be an -American or Scotchman, who involved himself by his writings deeply in -the last negro conspiracy. The prisoners received their food while we -were present: it consisted of very good soup, and three-quarters of a -pound of beef. Upon the ground floor is the dwelling of the keeper, who -was an Amsterdam Jew, and the state-rooms in which gentlemen, who are -lodged here, receive accommodation for money and fair words. The -cleanliness of the house was not very great; upon the whole it left an -unfavourable impression upon me. - -I found the other prison, destined for the punishment of minor offences -of the negro slaves, in a better condition. In it there were about forty -individuals of both sexes. These slaves are either such as have been -arrested during the night by the police, or such as have been sent here -by their masters for punishment. The house displays throughout a -remarkable neatness; black overseers go about every where armed with -cow-hides. In the basement story there is an apparatus upon which the -negroes, by order of the police, or at the request of their masters, are -flogged. The latter can have nineteen lashes inflicted on them according -to the existing law. The machine consists of a sort of crane, on which a -cord with two nooses runs over pullies; the nooses are made fast to the -hands of the slave and drawn up, while the feet are bound tight to a -plank. The body is stretched out as much as possible, and thus the -miserable creature receives the exact number of lashes as counted off! -Within a year, flogging occurs less frequently: that is to say, -a tread-mill has been erected in a back building of the prison, in which -there are two tread-wheels in operation. Each employs twelve prisoners, -who work a mill for grinding corn, and thereby contribute to the support -of the prison. Six tread at once upon each wheel, while six rest upon a -bench placed behind the wheel. Every half minute the left hand man steps -off the tread-wheel, while the five others move to the left to fill up -the vacant place; at the same time the right hand man sitting on the -bench, steps on the wheel, and begins his movement, while the rest, -sitting on the bench, uniformly recede. Thus, even three minutes -sitting, allows the unhappy being no repose. The signal for changing is -given by a small bell attached to the wheel. The prisoners are compelled -to labour eight hours a day in this manner. Order is preserved by a -person, who, armed with a cow-hide, stands by the wheel. Both sexes -tread promiscuously upon the wheel. Since, however, only twenty-four -prisoners find employment at once on both wheels, the idle are obliged -in the interval to sit upon the floor in the upper chambers, and observe -a strict silence. One who had eloped several times from a plantation, -was fastened by a heavy iron ring, that passed over his leg to the -floor. To provide against this state of idleness, there should be -another pair of tread-wheels erected. The negroes entertain a strong -fear of the tread-mills, and regard flogging as the lighter evil! Of -about three hundred and sixty, who, since the erection of these -tread-mills, have been employed upon them, only six have been sent back -a second time. - -The poor-house, an old building raised by subscription, contains one -hundred and sixty-six paupers. It will only admit such poor persons as -are completely disabled. Those who can labour a little can obtain the -employment they desire, and then receive good attendance and proper -support. The sick were taken care of in a distinct infirmary, where each -had a separate bed. The healthy slept upon the floor. I enquired why the -sick were not provided with iron bedsteads in place of the wooden ones -they occupied? and was informed that it was from apprehension of the -prevailing severe thunder-storms. - -Connected with the Poor-house is a Magdalen Asylum, which provides -shelter and care for thirty unfortunate beings. It struck me forcibly, -as I saw under an open shed in the yard where the poor walked about, the -dead cart, and close by it numbers of empty coffins piled up together, -that the scene might be very well introduced in a monastery of the order -of La Trappe. - -A medical school is to be built not far from the poor-house. Until the -completion of this structure, the students, one hundred and twenty in -number, receive their instruction in a wooden building, in which there -are arranged an amphitheatre, and a chemical laboratory. - -Dr. Tidyman and Mr. Lowndes had the politeness to show me a rice mill -established a few years ago. This mill is the property of Mr. Lucas, who -has fixed a similar one in the neighbourhood of London. Rice is known as -the staple article of produce of the lowlands in South Carolina, and yet -there was no mill hitherto to free the rice from its husk, and to -prepare it for use or export. This mill is situated near the river -Ashley. The schooner that conveys the rice from the plantation, lies -directly before it, a cart is taken on board the vessel filled with -rice, and by means of an inclined plane drawn into the mill, where it is -deposited. Hence the rice is drawn to the upper story, in which it is -cleared of dust by a fan, and passed between two large mill-stones which -frees the hull from the grain. It is then placed in a cylinder of -bolting cloth. By this it is further cleaned from all the hull. Now it -comes into the trough, where it is beaten by heavy hammers faced with -tin, and by that means is completely cleaned. It is once more conveyed -into a bolting cylinder, where, by another series of revolutions, it is -freed from the slightest dust, and shook through a tube into the tierces -placed for packing. The tierces stand upon a trunnel, which whirls round -while a hammer continually strikes upon it. Such a tierce in this way -receives six hundred pounds of rice. The machinery is to be set in -motion in future by a steam-machine of twenty-four horse-power. It is -wonderful, however, that the best steam-engines must be made in England -to supply a country that has numbered ROBERT FULTON among her citizens! - -Dr. Tidyman honoured me with a dinner, at which I met several of the -distinguished inhabitants of the place, as Mr. Lowndes, Major Garden, -son of that Scotch physician to whose honour Linnæus has given the name -of Gardenia to a class of plants; Mr. J. Allen Smith, who passed -seventeen years of his life in Europe, principally in Russia, and -enjoyed the especial favour of the Emperor Alexander; he was present at -my brother's marriage, and enquired after him in the most ardent manner. -This extremely amiable and interesting man has lost the greater part of -his property. Here also I met with the Marquis de Fougères, Mr. Viel, -and the English Consul, Mr. Newman. After dinner was over, a numerous -company of gentlemen and ladies assembled, who remained in society -through the evening. We had music, some of which was very good. - -In one of my strolls through the city, I talked with a person from -Erfurt, Mr. Siegling, who had established a music store here, and -appeared to do very good business. I saw at his residence several -handsome English harps and piano fortes; also several wind instruments -of different kinds. He pricks the notes himself on tin, and has a press -with which he prints them. - -In Charleston there exists among the Germans, and their descendants, who -for the most part are tradesmen of small capital, but persons of great -respectability, a Friendly German Society. - -On Sunday the 18th of December, two members of this Society, the militia -Colonel Sass, a native Hessian, who had already passed fifty-two years -in this country, and Mr. Strohhecker, came to take me to the Lutheran -church. The Lutheran preacher, Mr. Bachman, a native of Troy, in the -State of New York, administered divine service in the English language. -The church has been built but a few years. It is simple within, but in -very good taste. The organ is good, and was well played, and the hymns -sung in unison by the congregation. Mr. Bachman delivered an excellent -sermon upon the story of Cornelius, from the Acts of the Apostles. -Afterwards he detailed a report of a journey of about eight hundred -miles, which he had performed through the interior of this state, for -the purpose of examining the condition of the various Lutheran -congregations. The report upon churches and schools appeared very -favourable. This service displayed so much benevolence, and real -goodness, that I felt truly edified. - -Upon the following day I was accompanied by Mr. Bacott and his -brother-in-law, to St. Michael's episcopal church, to see the building, -and particularly the steeple, one hundred and eighty-six feet high. We -mounted two hundred and thirty-six steps, and enjoyed a very handsome -prospect over the regular built city, the bay, and adjacent country. The -bay, with its protecting forts, showed to great advantage; the -surrounding district not so agreeably, it being very level and overgrown -with wood. In the city several buildings reared their heads, among -others, the churches, and there are here twenty-two churches belonging -to various sects, then the orphan-house and custom-house. St. Michael's -church contains in itself nothing worthy of remark, if you except some -simple funeral tablets. The churches, moreover, stand in the centre of -burial grounds, and the custom still prevails, so injurious to health, -of entombing the dead in the city. - -On the same day, the last of my stay in Charleston, I was present at a -dinner which the German Friendly Society gave in compliment to me, -having invited me by a deputation. The party met at half past three -o'clock. The company was composed, with the exception of the mayor, Dr. -Johnson, of more than sixty persons, for the most part Germans or of -German origin. It was assembled in a house belonging to the society, -in which, besides the large assembly room, was also a school for the -children of the members, and the dwellings of the preceptors. The -society was instituted in the year 1766, the principal founder was -Captain Kalteisen, a native Wirtemburger, who had raised a volunteer -corps of fusileers from the Germans then living there, with which he not -only distinguished himself in the defence of Fort Moultrie against the -English, but also personally, during the whole war, rendered the most -important services as adjutant quarter-master-general in the staff of -the southern army. The company of fusileers always preserved their -connection with the German Society. Kalteisen himself died in the year -1807, as commandant of Fort Johnson; he was so attached to this German -association, that he had himself buried in the yard of the building, the -bricks of the pavement mark the form of his coffin over it, and a tablet -of marble in the hall contains an inscription to the memory of the -deceased. In the great hall, his portrait hangs next to that of Colonel -Sass, who after him commanded the company, and of a Wormser, named -Strobel, who was a joint founder of the society, and whose sons and -nephew appeared at table. Two brothers, Messrs. Horlbeck, presided at -the dinner, which was very well arranged. They had the politeness to -nominate me an honorary member of the society, and to present me their -laws for my signature; under them were here and there crosses only. -Several of the usual toasts were given out; my health being drank, -I returned my thanks in the German language. There was also singing. The -melody was guided by an old Mr. Eckhardt, a Hessian that had come to -America with the Hessian troops, as a musician, and remained here. He is -now organist of one of the churches, and three of his sons occupy the -same station in other churches. The German society possesses, moreover, -a library, which owes its origin to donations. In the school-room there -was a planetarium, very neatly finished, set in motion by clock-work. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - _Journey from Charleston, through Augusta, Milledgeville, Macon, - and the country of the Creek Indians, to Montgomery, in the - State of Alabama._ - - -My design had been to travel from Charleston to Savannah. I understood, -however, that the stage to Savannah was very bad; that the steam-boat -went very irregularly; that Savannah had lost its importance as a place -of trade, and on the whole, contained nothing worthy of observation. As -this tour would cost me many days, and a circuitous route, I resolved to -relinquish the visit to Savannah, and betake myself the nearest way to -Augusta, one hundred and twenty-nine miles distant; thence by -Milledgeville through the Creek Indians, to go into the state of -Alabama. Colonel Wool liked my plan, as also did Mr. Temple Bowdoin, an -Anglo-American, a very polished man, who had travelled, and who in his -younger days served in the British army. We had engaged the mail stage -for ourselves alone, and in it left Charleston on the 20th of December. - -We passed Ashley river at the same place, and in the same team-boat, -as I did eight days back. It was at low ebb, and many oyster banks were -exposed dry. This was a novel spectacle to me. The oysters stood -straight up, close together, and had somewhat the appearance of a brush. -Several negroes were employed in taking them out of the mud, in baskets. -Even on the piers of the bridge, many oysters were sticking fast. On the -opposite shore the road ran through a country generally woody, but -partly ornamented with plantations. Several of these plantations are -pretty, commonly an avenue of ancient, well preserved live oaks, leads -up to the mansion-house, at the entrance of which a grated gate is -placed. Maize and cotton are planted here, and in some places also rice, -which is the staple of the lower part of South Carolina. The rice fields -must stand several months of the year under water. On this account they -are situated in swampy districts, and surrounded by ditches of water. -But in consequence of this, these places are so unhealthy, that hardly a -white planter can remain during the summer on his plantation; he is -obliged to resort to Charleston, or the northern states. The climate of -Charleston is such, that whoever is there in the beginning of the hot -season, dares not to sleep a single night during the continuance of it, -upon a plantation, without exposing his life to imminent danger. The -blacks are the only human beings on whom this deadly climate has no bad -effect, and they are, therefore, indispensable for the cultivation of -this district. The vegetation was again extremely beautiful, noble live -oaks, laurel trees, magnolias, cabbage and macaw trees. The road ran -upon light bridges over small rivers, on the banks of which negroes were -busied in angling. We saw the family of a planter in an elegant boat, -manned by six black oarsmen, rowing to their plantation. In a large inn, -which was itself the mansion-house of a plantation, we found a -particularly good dinner. In the evening we crossed the Edisto river in -a narrow ferry-boat, for the arrival of which we were obliged to delay a -long time. The soil was mostly very sandy, partly also marshy, and the -jolting log causeways made us tired of our lives. On this side of the -river we arrived at the village of Edisto. We travelled through the -whole night, and I suffered much from the cold in my airy seat. -Otherwise, it was a clear moonlight, and if it had been a little warmer -would deserve the appellation of a fine night. We changed our stage -during the night, but gained nothing. - -The succeeding morning exhibited all the ponds of water covered with a -crust of ice. We passed the Salkechee and Cambahee rivers upon bridges, -and noticed nothing worthy of observation. The vegetation was less -beautiful than on the preceding day; the plantations were also less -considerable. At a new plantation, at which we arrived about break of -day, I spoke to the overseer of the negroes. The man's employment I -recognised from his whip, and from the use he made of it, in rousing up -the negroes to make a fire. He told us that in the district, where the -plantation was situated, and where maize and cotton were planted, but a -little time before there was nothing but forest; his employer had -commenced in 1816, with two negroes, and now he possessed one hundred -and four, who were kept at work in clearing the wood, and extending the -plantation. The cotton crop was finished in most of the fields, and -cattle were driven in, to consume the weeds and tops of the bushes. -We passed several mill-ponds, and saw some saw-mills. Only pine trees -appeared to flourish in this part of the country; upon the whole, it was -hilly, and the progress was tedious through the deep sand. We passed the -river Savannah three miles from Augusta, in a little ferry-boat. The -left bank appeared here and there to be rocky, and pretty high; the -right is sandy. When we crossed the river, we left the state of South -Carolina, and entered that of Georgia, the most southern of the old -thirteen United States, which in fifty years have grown to twenty-four -in number. We reached Augusta in the evening at nine o'clock, on a very -good road, a scattered built town of four thousand six hundred -inhabitants, of both complexions. We took up our quarters in the Globe -Hotel, a tolerable inn; during the whole day it was very clear, but cold -weather, in the evening it froze hard. The old remark is a very just -one, that one suffers no where so much from cold as in a warm climate, -since the dwellings are well calculated to resist heat, but in nowise -suited to repel cold. - -We were compelled to remain in Augusta during the 22d of December, as -the mail stage for the first time went to Milledgeville on the following -day, and Colonel Wool had to inspect the United States' arsenal here, -which contained about six thousand stand of arms for infantry. We -understood that Mr. Crawford, formerly embassador of the United States, -in Paris, afterwards secretary of state, and lastly, candidate for the -office of president, was here at a friend's house. We therefore paid him -a visit. Mr. Crawford is a man of gigantic stature, and dignified -appearance; he had a stroke of apoplexy about a year since, so that he -was crippled on one side, and could not speak without difficulty. To my -astonishment, he did not speak French, though he had been several years -an envoy in Paris. They say, that Mr. Crawford's predecessor in Paris, -was chancellor Livingston, this gentleman was deaf; both Livingston and -Crawford were introduced to the Emperor Napoleon at the same time; the -emperor, who could carry on no conversation with either of them, -expressed his surprise, that the United States had sent him a deaf and -dumb embassy. I likewise reaped very little profit from Mr. Crawford's -conversation. As he was an old friend of Mr. Bowdoin, almost all the -benefit of it fell to his share, and I addressed myself chiefly to his -daughter, and one of her female friends, who were present. Much indeed -was to be anticipated as the result of a conversation with the daughter -of such a statesman. She had been educated in a school of the southern -states. My conclusion was, the farther south I advanced, so much the -firmer am I convinced that the inhabitants of these states suffer in -comparing their education with those of the north. To conclude, Mr. -Crawford was the hero of the democratic party, and would, in all -probability, have been chosen president in the spring of 1825, had not -his apoplectic attack supervened. On account of his indisposition, -General Jackson was pushed before him; and so much was brought forward -against the individual character of this person in opposition, that the -present incumbent, Adams, on that account, succeeded. - -The city of Augusta is very regularly built. The main street is about -one hundred feet wide, it contains many brick houses, and good-looking -stores. None of the streets are paved, but all have brick foot-paths. -A wooden bridge, three hundred and fifty yards long, and thirty feet -wide, crosses from the neighbourhood of the city, to the left bank of -Savannah river, the city lies on the right bank. Along the bank is -erected a quay in the manner of a terrace, which is one of the most -suitable that I have seen; for it is accommodated to the swell of the -river, which often rises above twenty feet. It has three terraces. The -lower one has a margin of beams, mostly of cypress timber, at which, -in the present uncommon low stage of the water, the vessels are loaded. -From the second terrace, (which as well as the upper one, has a brick -facing,) are wooden landings reaching to the edge of the under terrace, -by which, at higher stages, the vessels may land there. The upper -terrace is paved with large stones, which are quarried above the city. -The quay, as well as the landings, belong to the State Bank of Georgia: -the landings produce fifteen per cent. annually. - -Augusta is the depôt for the cotton, which is conveyed from the upper -part of Georgia by land carriage, and here shipped either to Savannah or -Charleston. We noticed a couple of vessels of a peculiar structure, -employed in this trade. They are flat underneath, and look like large -ferry-boats. Each vessel can carry a load of three hundred tons. The -bales of cotton, each of which weighs about three hundred pounds, were -piled upon one another to the height of eleven feet. Steam-boats are -provided to tow these vessels up and down the stream, but on account of -the present low state of the water, they cannot come up to Augusta. -I was assured that year by year between fifteen and twenty thousand -bales of cotton were sent down the river. The state of South Carolina, -to which the left bank of the river belongs, was formerly compelled to -make Augusta its depôt. To prevent this, Mr. Schulz, a man of -enterprise, originally from Holstein, has founded a new town, called -Hamburg, upon the left bank of the river, close by the bridge, -supported, as is said, by the legislature of South Carolina with an -advance of fifty thousand dollars. This town was commenced in the year -1821, and numbers about four hundred inhabitants, who are collectively -maintained by the forwarding business. It consists of one single row of -wooden houses, streaked with white, which appear very well upon the dark -back ground, formed by the high forest close behind the houses. Nearly -every house contains a store, a single one, which comprised two stores, -was rented for one thousand dollars. Several new houses were building, -and population and comfort appear fast increasing. The row of houses -which form the town, runs parallel with the river, and is removed back -from it about one hundred and fifty paces. Upon this space stands a -large warehouse, and a little wooden hut, looking quite snug, upon the -whole, with the superscription "Bank." A Hamburg bank in such a booth, -was so tempting an object for me, that I could not refrain from -gratifying my curiosity. I went in, and made acquaintance with Mr. -Schulz, who was there. He appears to me to be a very public-spirited -man, having been one of the most prominent undertakers of the landings -and quay of Augusta. It is said, however, that he only accomplishes good -objects for other people, and realizes nothing for himself. He has -already several times possessed a respectable fortune, which he has -always sunk again by too daring speculations. This Hamburg bank, -moreover, has suspended its payments, and will not resume business till -the first of next month. On this account, it was not possible for me to -obtain its notes, which, for the curiosity of the thing, I would gladly -have taken back with me to Germany. - -On the 23d December we left Augusta, about four o'clock, by moonlight, -and the weather pretty cold, in the miserable mail stage, which we had -engaged for ourselves. It went for Milledgeville, eighty-six miles -distant from Augusta. The road was one of the most tedious that I had -hitherto met with in the United States; hilly, nothing but sand, at -times solitary pieces of rock, and eternal pine woods with very little -foliage; none of the evergreen trees and the southern plants seen -elsewhere, which, new as they were to my eye, had so pleasantly broke -the monotony of the tiresome forests through which I had travelled from -the beginning of December; even the houses were clap-board cabins. Every -thing contributed to give me an unfavourable impression. The inhabitants -of Georgia are regarded in the United States under the character of -great barbarians, and this reputation appears really not unjustly -conferred. We see unpleasant countenances even in Italy: but here all -the faces are haggard, and bear the stamp of the sickly climate. - -To the cold weather which we had for several days, warm temperature -succeeded to-day. We were considerably annoyed by dust. Besides several -solitary houses and plantations, we encountered two little hamlets here, -called towns, Warrenton and Powelton, this last lies upon Great Ogechee -river, over which passes a wooden bridge. We stopped at Warrenton. The -court of justice is in the only brick house of the place: close by it -stands the prison, or county gaol, a building composed of strong planks -and beams nailed together. Between Warrenton and Powelton, we had a -drunken Irishman for our driver, who placed us more than once in great -danger. This race of beings, who have spread themselves like a -pestilence over the United States, are here also, and despised even by -the Georgians. We travelled again all night; it was, however, not so -cold as the nights previous. Towards midnight, we reached a trifling -place called Sparta. We were obliged to stop here some time, as the -stage and horses were to be changed. We seated ourselves at the -fire-place in the tavern. All of a sudden there stood betwixt us, like -an evil genius, a stout fellow, with an abominable visage, who appeared -to be intoxicated, and crowded himself in behind Mr. Bowdoin. -I addressed this gentleman to be on guard for his pockets. The ruffian -made a movement, and a dirk fell from his sleeve, which he clutched up, -and made off. They told me that he was an Irishman, who, abandoned to -liquor, as most of his countrymen were, had no means of subsistence, and -often slunk about at night to sleep in houses that happened to be open. -Most probably he had intended to steal. We then obtained another driver, -whom, from his half drunkenness and imprecations, I judged to be a son -of Hibernia, and was not deceived. - -On the 24th December, we left this unlucky Sparta at one o'clock in the -morning. The driver wished very much to put a passenger in the stage -with us, which we prevented. Vexed by this, he drove us so tediously, -that we spent full eight hours going twenty-two miles to Milledgeville, -and did not therefore reach there until nine in the morning. Immediately -after leaving Norfolk, and travelling in the woods where there was -little accommodation for travellers, we had every night seen bivouacs of -wagoners or emigrants, moving to the western states--the backwoods. The -horses of such a caravan are tied to the side of the wagon, and stand -feeding at their trough; near the wagon is a large fire lighted up, of -fallen or cut timber. At this fire the people sleep in good weather, in -bad, they lay themselves in or under the wagon. After leaving Augusta we -encountered several of these bivouacs, which consist partly of numerous -families with harnessed wagons. They intended to go to Alabama, the -district of country lately sold by the United States, and there to set -themselves down and fall to hewing and building. I saw three families -sitting on a long fallen tree, to which they had set fire in three -places. These groups placed themselves in a very picturesque manner; but -their way of acting is very dangerous. The night before we saw the woods -on fire in three different directions, and the fire was without doubt -occasioned by such emigrants as these. The lofty pine trees look very -handsome while burning, when they are insulated, but the owner of the -forest has all the trouble attending it to himself. - -The country which we passed through towards morning was hilly, the -bottom constantly sandy, towards the last, mixed with clay and rock. The -trees were nothing but long-leafed pines. Close by Milledgeville, we -crossed the Oconee river on a bridge that had been finished but a few -days, and which rested on wooden piles. Until now the river was passed -by a ferry-boat. Both shores are very high and steep, so that going in -and coming out were attended with great difficulty. - -Milledgeville lies upon elevated ground, the town is very regularly -built, its broad streets are right-angled, they are, however, unpaved. -It numbers about three thousand inhabitants of both complexions. It was -established about twenty years ago, and increased very rapidly from its -commencement, as it is the capital of the state of Georgia, and the seat -of the legislature. Its increase is now calculated to be checked, since -the story goes that the seat of government will be changed to the -newly-founded town of Macon, or when the state has conquered congress in -the cause yet depending before that body, and part of the Creek Indians -territory is obtained, then it will be placed at Athens, where the -university of the state is situated. We took up our residence at La -Fayette Hall, a large tavern. - -Soon after our arrival, I took a walk through the town. It contains -mostly wooden houses, but they were good and even elegantly built, good -stores, also a bookseller's shop, and several printing presses. There -are published here four gazettes, which a little while since were -exceedingly active on the sides of the two parties who oppose each other -in the state. One party is that of Governor Troup, who, from his -discussions with the United States concerning the Creek territory, and -on account of his warmth in his official correspondence, has become -noted; the other is the party of the former governor, General Clark, who -is, in all appearance, a very mild man, and very much respected by -sensible and well-disposed persons. At the last election of the -governor, it was believed and hoped that General Clark would be chosen. -He had the majority of the legislature in his favour, yet, as the -governor in this state is chosen for two years by the people, and every -man that pays half a dollar tax has a vote, it so happened that Governor -Troup succeeded, by his popularity, in bearing off the palm. - -I examined the state-house, which is a simple, but well-finished brick -building of two stories. In the ground floor are the offices, in the -upper story two halls, one is for the senate, the other for the -representatives. In each there is a seat, with a canopy, for the -speaker. The senators have each a desk before them, in the hall of the -representatives one desk serves two persons. All places are numbered, -to prevent awkward encounters. In each hall there is a gallery for the -public. The state-house is placed alone on a little eminence. In its -neighbourhood stands the state arsenal. Another house belonging to the -state, is appointed for the residence of the governor. Mr. Troup, -notwithstanding, does not inhabit it; he has no family establishment, -and has domesticated himself in a plain boarding-house. We intended to -pay him our respects, he could not, however, receive us, as he lay -dangerously ill of a pleurisy. Through two friends, Colonel Hamilton and -Mr. Ringold, he tendered us his apologies, and these gentlemen, in his -name, proffered us their services. - -We were then carried to the state prison, a large brick edifice, under -the superintendence of Mr. Williams, and contained seventy-six -prisoners. All these were white persons, for the black were punished by -the whip, and not with imprisonment. No idleness was suffered among the -prisoners. If one understood no mechanical trade, he was obliged to -learn one. I found most of them employed in wagon and saddle-making; -others laboured in a smithy; others as shoemakers or tailors. The -greatest quiet and silence prevailed among the prisoners. Their dress is -blue, with broad white stripes upon all the seams. The interior of the -lodging-house did not please me as much as the workshops. Cleanliness, -so indispensable to such an establishment, was wanting here; it was -neither swept nor scrubbed, and in the cells of the prisoners, in which -four or five slept upon the floor, the woollen coverlets and pillows lay -confusedly together. There were also cells for solitary confinement, -this was, however, used only as a means of house discipline. The eating -room was equally disagreeable to me. A piece of cooked meat was laid on -the table for each prisoner, without knives, forks, or plates. Bread did -not appear to be furnished every day; at least the day we were there, -none was to be seen. The prison is surrounded by a high wall, at each of -its four corners stands a sentry-box for the watch, which they ascend -from without, and from which the whole yard can be overlooked. This -establishment is so well conducted, that it occasions no expense to the -state, on the contrary, it produces a profit. Upon the principal -building stands a turret, which commands an extensive view over the town -and circumjacent country. The district around appears uneven and covered -with wood, the monotony of the view is relieved by nothing. The woods -begin at the edge of the town. - -Colonel Hamilton and Dr. Rogers accompanied us on Christmas day to the -state-house. A travelling Unitarian clergyman from the northern states -held divine service in the hall of representatives. The generality of -people here are either Methodists or Baptists. As the Unitarian had -found the churches here shut on this day, he had opened his temple in -the state-house. His audience was composed of the beau monde, as a -Unitarian was something new. He delivered a good discourse, in which he -set forth pure morality, and received general approbation. After dinner -he proposed to give a second service, for the purpose of expounding the -doctrines of his belief, as founded on common sense. - -Colonel Hamilton, a particular friend of Governor Troup, was formerly -secretary of state of Georgia. The appointment to this office belongs to -the legislature. This was the cause that though Troup is again chosen -governor by the people, Mr. Hamilton and all the friends of the governor -have lost their places, which are occupied by persons attached to the -Clark party. Dr. Rodgers was secretary of the state treasury, and has -been deprived of his office from the same cause. We saw here several -Indians of both sexes, from the Creek nation, who sold bows, arrows, and -very neatly made baskets. These Indians had a much better appearance -than those I saw in the western part of the state of New York and -Canada. Afterwards several of the grandees of the country were presented -to me by Colonel Hamilton. All these gentlemen had their own peculiar -character. It was evident that they lived in a state separated from the -civilized world. - -We were constrained to remain in Milledgeville on the day after -Christmas, how unpleasant soever it might be. No stage goes from this -place through the Indian territory to Montgomery on the Alabama river, -whither we intended to bend our way. We therefore hired for this journey -of one hundred and ninety-eight miles, a four-horse extra stage, for the -price of two hundred and twenty-five dollars; this stage was at present -under repair in the state prison, and could not be placed at our -disposal before the 27th of December. It was necessary for us to have -patience, and pass the time as well as possible, and the few gentlemen -with whom we had formed acquaintance exerted themselves to amuse us. - -On the 27th of December we left Milledgeville at nine o'clock in the -morning. It was a pretty cold day, and there was ice half an inch thick. -We rode only thirty miles to Macon. In spite of the large sum of money -which our carriage had cost us, it broke twice; the repairs consumed -much time, and we left it several miles behind. The day was very clear, -and towards midday moderately warm, in the evening there was again a -strong frost. I was pleased with the dark blue of the sky, such as we -hardly have in Germany in a midsummer's day. We met with several -families, emigrating with their property to Macon and the State of -Alabama. One of these families, who had paid their wagoners beforehand, -had been left by them under frivolous pretext in the middle of the -woods, two miles from Milledgeville: we found these unfortunate persons, -who had made a bivouac, after they had waited several days in vain for -their runaway wagoner and his horses. Several lonely houses which we -passed were grog-shops, in which the neighbours were celebrating the -third day of the Christmas holy-days. Every thing as at home, thought I, -and fancied that I was in a European country. We noticed a gentleman and -lady on horseback, the horses were not loaded completely, a barefooted -negro wench was obliged to run with a heavy sack of corn on her -shoulders to feed the horses! Then I was convinced, and with pleasure, -that I was not in Europe! The road was sandy, uneven, and passed through -pine woods. This wood was here and there cleared, and a patch of cotton -and Indian corn planted. Close by Macon we crossed the Oakmulgee river -in a ferry-boat, and reached the town after sunset. We found tolerable -accommodation in a new tavern. - -The country in which Macon is situated, was first purchased from the -Creek Indians, in the year 1822, and the town began about two years ago. -In the last war, the Indians had collected a number of their people -here, and the United States built Fort Hawkins, on the left bank of the -river, at present deserted. - -In Macon we received a visit from a Colonel Danah, who formerly served -in the army, and was now settled here. He introduced to me several of -the distinguished people of the place, who had come to see me. The town -has only three streets, which crossed at right angles. At the point of -intersection is a large square, there are houses only on three sides of -it; on the fourth side it is contemplated to erect the capitol, if, -as it has been proposed, the government should be removed here from -Milledgeville. One street runs perpendicular to the line of the river, -over which a bridge is intended to be built: the mason work for its -support has been completed on both sides. The streets are about one -hundred feet wide, the roots of the felled trees are visible in them, -of which trees the houses are constructed throughout. The place contains -about sixteen hundred inhabitants, white and black. The population are -partly young people from Georgia, partly emigrants from the two -Carolinas and the northern states, who have fixed themselves here from -motives of speculation. Although the site of the new town is represented -as extremely healthy, yet they have suffered during the preceding summer -from bilious fever. The country around is little built upon, and the -woods begin not far behind the houses. - -About nine o'clock in the morning, on the 28th December, we left Macon -and rode thirty-one miles distance to the Indian agency, on the left -bank of Flint river, called by the Indians, Thlo-no-teas-kah. The road -was partly sandy, partly rocky, but extremely uneven. It was kept in -very bad order. No pains had been taken to carry away or saw through -trees, which had fallen more than a year back crosswise over the road; -the carriage was obliged to make a considerable deviation through the -woods to pass these fallen trees. The plantations by which we passed, -are all new; the houses were completely log huts. The tiresome -uniformity of the pine woods were, in the low and marshy places into -which we often came, very pleasantly interrupted by evergreen cane, as -well as by thorn oaks and laurel trees, we also saw several green-leaved -trees, chiefly oaks, as formerly. - -Towards four o'clock in the afternoon we reached the agency, a group of -twenty log houses, and some negro huts. It is appointed for the -residence of the agent of the United States with the Creek Indians, -(he, however, was absent at this time,) and is situated in a very -handsome tract of land on the left side of the Flint river, which rushes -over a rocky bed between pretty steep banks. The right bank belongs to -the Creek nation, of about twenty-one thousand souls, and is inhabited -by them. The contest between the state of Georgia and the United States -is caused by this territory. The state of Georgia had concluded a treaty -with one of the Creek chiefs, M'Intosh, concerning the surrender of this -district of land; the nation, discontented with the treaty, and is -nowise willing to evacuate their country, insisted that they had been -deceived, and killed M'Intosh. The United States espoused the side of -the Indians, and blamed the Georgia commissioners for scandalous -impositions upon the Indians. Congress is now about to decide upon this -matter. In one of the log-houses, with a Mr. Crowell, we took up our -night's lodging, and enjoyed some very well cooked venison. In a -neighbouring grog-shop we found a collection of drunken Indians, and -some negroes, who were frolicing during the Christmas holy-days. Several -of them were well dressed; they wore mocassins and leggings of leather; -broad knee-bands ornamented with white glass beads, a sort of coat of -striped cotton, and upon the head a striped cotton cloth, almost like a -turban. Several of them were very large. For a treat of whiskey, which I -gave them, eight of them performed the war dance. They skipped here and -there in a circle, moved themselves right and left, sprung against each -other, raised their hands on high, let them fall again, and bellowed -horribly through the whole scene. Some old men who stood near, took it -in dudgeon, that the young men should dance in such a way before white -people. They called to them to stop. Mr. Crowell, however, brought them -to silence easily, by whiskey. - -The colour of these Indians is a dusky brown. They have black straight -hair. Several of them possess negroes, to whom it is very acceptable to -live with them, since they are treated with more equality than by the -whites. Some of these negroes were very well clothed in the Indian -manner, they drank and jumped about with the Indians. One of them was of -colossal stature, and appeared to be in great request among the Indians, -to whom he served as interpreter. The constitution of these Indians is a -mixture of aristocratical and republican form of government. The chiefs -are chosen for life, and the dignity is not hereditary; for improper -conduct they can be deposed. They cannot write their language. Their -laws are of course very simple, and founded on traditionary usage. - -It had rained hard in the night, between the 28th and 29th of December, -it rained also in the day, almost incessantly, yet this rain was mild -and warm, nearly like a spring rain in Germany. There was a -consultation, whether we should remain or go farther on, I determined on -the latter. About nine o'clock we left our night quarters. In the -vicinity thereof, the governor of the state of Georgia had built Fort -Lawrence, which was evacuated, and given up at the peace. The houses, -which belonged to the agency, were then built as magazines and hospitals -for the troops, and arranged for a post of defence. Near the chimney, -and the doors and windows, (the last without glass sashes,) were -loop-holes pierced. Behind this post we passed the Flint river in an -Indian ferry-boat, and found ourselves landed upon their territory. We -rode twenty-eight miles farther to a lonely plantation, called Currel's. -The road ran through the worst part of the Indian lands, the woods -consisted as before, of the long-leaved pine, and it was only in damp -places we observed green leaves. In particular, there grew high and -beautiful cane. The soil is for the most part dry sand, in strata, and -particularly in the bottoms it is mixed with clay, and of a full yellow -colour. The Indians have thrown bridges over two brooks with marshy -shores, at each of them we paid, with great pleasure, half a dollar -toll-money. The bridges are indeed not remarkably good, yet better than -several in the christian state of Georgia, and even in many of the more -northern states. We met but few of the Indian inhabitants; these were -all wrapt up in woollen blankets. We only saw three wigwams, Indian -houses, chiefly toll-houses of the bridges. They resemble the -log-houses, neither are they so open as those which I saw last summer in -the state of New York. The day was exceedingly uninteresting. Mr. -Currel, with whom we passed the night, is a Virginian, who has settled -here for the opportunity of speculating among the Indians, from whom he -purchased his land at a rather cheap rate: to judge from his habits of -intoxication, he has already adapted himself too much to their mode of -life. His plantation buildings are, as all the rest, log huts: the wind -blew to our heart's content through the room; no lamp could burn, and we -were forced to use a great hearth fire to give us light. There was no -ceiling to our room, but a transparent roof of clap-boards directly over -us. I was surprised to discover Shakspeare's works in this place. In one -of the out-houses there was a very good supper set before us, at which, -especially, we had excellent venison. - -Upon the 30th of December, after we had passed a cold night in our -clap-board hut, which allowed the storm free admission, and locked our -few articles of property in our chamber, from fear of the Indians -sneaking about, we started before break of day, and rode a distance of -thirty-three miles to Fort Mitchel. The weather was cold the whole day -through, and threatened rain. The country again very uninteresting, -mostly pines, a sandy soil, here and there mingled with clay: at length -wood with green leaves. Only in low situations, along the rivulets, -of which we passed three, was the vegetation to be admired. The laurel -bushes particularly looked well. It gave me real pleasure to be able to -walk in a green thicket along a brook, which I could have accomplished -with difficulty in summer, since these bushes are the favourite resort -of a great number of rattlesnakes. In a solitary plantation we took our -breakfast; it belonged to a Mr. Colfrey, a worthy old Virginian, who had -lost a considerable property, and to better his circumstances, had -determined on the hard alternative of settling among the Indians. We -found his plantation in a very uncommon state of order and neatness, and -we were delighted by an unexpected and most excellent breakfast. Mr. -Bowdoin said to the owner of the place, that he appeared as if he had -not always lived thus among the savages, and never can I forget how the -old man, with tears in his eyes, turned away without making an answer. - -We met with several wigwams, and various temporary cabins of travelling -Indians, also a number of bridges, at which we were obliged to pay the -Indians toll. The country was very hilly till we came into a valley, -a mile from our night quarters, through which the Chatahouchee flowed. -This river empties itself into the Mexican gulf. The district, even to -the left bank of the river, is rather marshy, grown up with willows, -laurel, and cane. Not far from the river we beheld several buildings -appointed for the popular assembly of the Indians, called the big talk. -They are large and round, having a conical-formed roof, covered with -tree-bark; they have walls of lime, and a covered low entrance also of -lime. The Indians assemble in these buildings only in bad weather, or at -night, and then a fire kindled in the middle of the house, gives light. -In good weather they collect in a square place covered with sheds, under -which the Indians sit down on planks protected from the sun's heat. -There is also another place for public games, and particularly for -ball-playing. They appeared here also to have a species of masquerade, -for we found some in a half gourd, cut through and made into a mask, -with eyes and mouth cut in it, and the nose set on of a piece of wood. -From the neck of the gourd, which was cut at half its length, they had -made a pair of horns, and fasted them on the mask, and under this a long -white beard. - -We passed the river Chatahouchee at one of the ferries belonging to the -Indians, and kept in order by them. The right bank is somewhat steep, -of red earth, which, from the violent rain, had become slippery. Half a -mile from the ferry brought us to Fort Mitchel. It stood upon a height, -and was situated to the right of us. We dismounted not far from this, -between Indian wigwams at Crowell's tavern. The host was a brother of -the Indian agent. This house has also a plantation attached to it, as -the one above-mentioned had. Colonel Wool and I were lodged in an airy -out-house of clap-boards, without a ceiling, and windows without glass. -We were accommodated with freer circulation than would have fallen to -our lot in a German barn. Four companies of the fourth regiment of -infantry, the staff of which was fixed at Pensacola, lay in garrison at -the fort. The commandant, Major Donoho, and his officers had taken board -at Crowell's tavern; in the evening we made acquaintance with them. The -most of these officers, pupils of the school at West Point, were men of -information, and we passed the remainder of the evening much pleased -with their society. - -We made the 31st of December a day of rest, as Colonel Wool had to -inspect the garrison of the fort. The four companies here stationed form -properly the garrison of Pensacola, and were only sent here last summer -during the contest between Georgia and the United States, to protect the -Creeks against the encroachments of that State. It openly wishes to take -possession of the Indian territory to the Chatahouchee, to which river, -agreeable to the charter, Georgia extends. The right bank of the river, -on which we now found ourselves, is in the jurisdiction of the State of -Alabama. The troops arriving, at first encamped here, but immediately -commenced building a new but smaller fort, on the spot where Fort -Mitchell stands, so called in honour of the then governor of Georgia, -which they now occupy. They hoped, however, that they should return to -Pensacola as soon as the disagreements had been settled. - -After the inspection, we took a walk to a plantation lying near, which -belonged to an Indian named M'Intosh. He was absent at Washington as a -delegate from his nation. He is the son of that M'Intosh, who obtained -from the State of Georgia the title of General, and who last spring, on -account of the treaty with the state, had been shot by his countrymen -and hewed in pieces. Polygamy prevails among the Indians. The young -M'Intosh had indeed only two wives, a white woman and an Indian. They -say he had several wives whom he wished to keep: the white woman however -had driven them with scolding and disgrace out of the house, as she -would only submit to one Indian rival. We did not see the Indian wife. -The white wife, however, received us quite politely. She is the daughter -of a planter in Georgia, and tolerably pretty. She was attired in the -European style, only according to the Indian fancy in dress, she carried -a quantity of glass beads about her neck. She showed us her two -children, completely white, and also the portrait of her father-in-law, -as large as life, with the sword of honour given him by the United -States. The family is in very good circumstances, and possesses seventy -negroes. - -In the afternoon we went to a Methodist mission, one short mile distant. -We found none but the women at home. The missionaries have established a -school, which is frequented by thirty children. They have three Indian -girls, boarders, who were extremely modest. The mission is situated in a -handsome plantation, on which I saw tame deer. The deer here are -evidently smaller than those in Europe. - -Sunday, the 1st of January, 1826, we were awakened by the drums and -fifes, which announced the new year, by playing Hail Columbia and Yankee -Doodle. With the break of day, between seven and eight o'clock, we left -Fort Mitchel, and rode twenty-five miles to a plantation called Lewis's, -which is located on the spot, upon which, in the last war, Fort -Bainbridge stood. The road ran through a very hilly country. At first -the soil was sandy and poor, it bore nothing but pine trees. After we -had passed over half the distance, the soil improved, it looked -reddish-yellow, and the apparently everlasting pines gave place to -handsome oaks and lofty hickories. On the other hand the carriage road -became very bad, and in a narrow place we upset. The carriage fell -slowly towards my side, I took the right moment, sprung from the box on -which I sat, and fell upon my feet. This was the eighth time I had been -overturned, and never did I escape so cheap as on this occasion. As none -of the other gentlemen were injured, we could happily laugh at our -accident. The carriage was somewhat damaged, and since we were only four -miles distant from Lewis's, and had very fine weather, a true spring -day, with clear dark-blue sky, we went the rest of the way on foot. - -We passed several wigwams and temporary Indian huts, in which the men -lived with the hogs, and lay around the fire with them. A hut of this -description is open in front, behind it is closed with pieces of wood -and bark. The residents live on roasted venison and Indian corn. The -hides of the deer, and even of cattle, they stretch out to dry in the -sun, and then sell them. At one hut, covered with cane leaves, there was -venison roasting, and bacon smoking. The venison is cut in pieces, and -spitted on a cane stalk, many such stalks lie upon two blocks near each -other. Under these the fire is kindled, and the stalk continually turned -round, till the flesh is dried through. Upon this is laid a hurdle made -of cane which rests on four posts. To this are all the large pieces -suspended. The hams of bacon are laid upon the hurdle so that the smoke -may draw through them. - -The grass in many parts of the woods was in a blaze, and many pine trees -were burning. We crossed two small streams, the Great and Little Uchee, -on tolerable wooden bridges. Between three and four o'clock in the -afternoon we reached Lewis's, a handsome house, the best that we had -found in the Indian territory. We took here an excellent dinner. We ate -daily of the best of venison. In Fort Mitchel we had eaten partridges, -of which the officers in one day took fifty-seven in the morning, and -forty-six in the evening, in their nets. For the singularity of the -thing, I will notice our dinner of to-day, that the inquisitive reader -may observe that one is in no danger of hunger on the lands of the -Indians: soup of turnips, roast-beef, a roast-turkey, venison with a -kind of sour sauce, roast-chickens, and pork with sweet potatoes. - -On the 2d of January we rode thirty-one miles to Walker's, also a -solitary plantation. The country hilly, the road bad to such a degree -that we could only creep along in the most tedious manner, and were -obliged to proceed on foot very often. The wood on the other hand grew -better and better, and consisted, besides the pines, of handsome oaks, -and various sorts of nut-bearing trees, mostly hickories: the soil, for -the most part, of a reddish yellow. In several marshy places, and on the -banks of rivulets, we saw again the evergreen trees and bushes, and in a -swamp nearly a mile long, through which a causeway ran, some magnolia -grandiflora which were at least sixty feet high. I also saw here again -several trees, which first forming one trunk, four or five feet above -the ground, divided themselves into two trunks, and then shot up into -the air one hundred feet. In the north-western part of the state of New -York, I have seen trees which ran up in five, six, and even seven -trunks. Over a stream with marshy banks, a bridge was thrown, three -hundred and eleven paces long: the view which I took from this bridge of -the luxuriant exotic vegetation which surrounded me, exhibited, as I -thought, the original of the sketches of the Brazilian forests in the -travels of the Prince Nieuwied. The beautiful day, the cloudless -dark-blue sky, also introduced by him, were recalled to me by this -picture. But when I observed upon the trees the hateful Spanish moss, -I was reminded that I was in the neighbourhood of Columbia and -Charleston, and that it was a token of unwholesome air. In the swamps I -noticed several plants which were known to me from hot-house -cultivation, but unfortunately I cannot recall their names. - -The country is comparatively populously inhabited by Indians. They live -partly in wigwams, partly in bark cabins. Before one of these huts, or -cabins, hung a skinned otter, upon which they seemed preparing to make a -meal. The Indians roast their maize on the naked coals, then they throw -it into a cavity made in a trunk of a tree, and pound it with a stick of -wood into a sort of coarse meal. I bought a species of nuts, which were -roasted, ground-nuts, and amused myself with the propensity to thievery -a young Indian displayed. As I was putting the nuts in my pocket, one or -more would drop, instantly the young fellow would step forward, as if by -accident, set his foot on the nut, take it between his toes, and move -off. We passed through a tolerably cleared, fenced, and built district, -in which several negro quarters of a decent appearance were scattered -about. This plantation belonged to a chief, one of the principal of the -Creeks, called the Big Warrior, who owns above three hundred negroes, -whose wooden dwelling-house stands in the centre of his property. He is -now at Washington, as one of the deputies of his nation. We came over -another cleared spot, where the Indians were routed in the last war by -the Georgia militia under General Floyd. - -Not far from this place, we noticed a number of Indians collected in the -neighbourhood of a plantation. We left our carriage to inquire into the -cause of it. There had been a horse race of middling unsightly horses: -the festival was, however, ended, and the meeting was on the point of -breaking up. A white planter who was there, conducted us to the son of -the Big Warrior. He was himself a chief, and possessed a high -reputation, as was said amongst those of the nation. He sat upon a -felled tree between two inferior chiefs. His dress was a tunic of -flowered, clear blue calico, a piece of the same stuff was wrapped round -his head like a turban. He wore richly ornamented leather leggings set -with glass beads, and mocassins, and had an equally ornamented hunting -pouch hung around him. Moderately fat, and of a great stature, he -appeared to be about thirty years old. He had mustaches like all his -countrymen. I was introduced to him, and shook hands with him. The -conversation was very trifling and short. It took place through an -interpreter who appeared to be a dismissed soldier. This creature caused -the chief to rise when we commenced speaking to him; when I begged him -to remain sitting, he reseated himself mechanically. He directed no -questions to me, and answered mine with yes and no. To the question, -whether he knew any thing of the country of which I was a native, he -answered by a shake of the head. He looked no more at me. Several -Indians wore their hair in a singular style; it was shorn on both sides -of the head, and the middle, from the neck over to the forehead, stood -up like a cock's comb. Seen from behind, they appeared as if they wore a -helmet. Quite small boys practised themselves already in shooting with a -little bow. I attempted to joke with a little fellow, three years old, -but he took the jest in bad part, and threatened me with his bow. - -After sunset, towards six o'clock in the evening, we reached Walker's, -and found a good reception in a large log-house, each of us had a -separate chamber. The landlord was a captain of infantry in the United -States' service formerly, and had, as our host of yesterday, an Indian -wife. - -On the following day we rode to Montgomery, twenty-five miles distant. -The road was in the beginning bad, afterwards, however, really good. -We crossed a bridge over a stream one hundred paces long, and were then -obliged to toil over a long, wretched causeway. The vegetation was again -exceedingly luxuriant, it was remarkably beautiful on the banks of Line -Creek, a little river, which forms the boundary between the Indian -territory and the state of Alabama, eight miles from Walker's. Very -lofty live oaks, and oaks of other descriptions, several magnolias, and -amongst them, a particularly handsome and lofty macrophylla. - -As we entered upon the territory of Alabama, we soon observed that we -were upon a much better soil. It was darker, much wood was removed, and -signs of cultivation every where. Upon several plantations, the cotton -fields exhibited themselves in beautiful order; the log houses were only -employed as negro cabins; the mansion-houses, two stories high, are for -the most part painted white, and provided with piazzas and balconies. At -most of them the cotton gins and presses were at work. The planters had -not finished the whole of their crop, on account of the unusual drought. -The Alabama river was so low that the steam-boats had not been able for -several weeks to pass from Mobile to Montgomery. This place had -therefore, for a length of time, suffered for the want of the most -necessary supplies, which are drawn from Mobile; fifteen dollars had -been asked for one bushel of salt. We met several caravans of emigrants -from the eastern part of Georgia, who were on their way to Butler -county, Alabama, to settle themselves on land which they had purchased -very cheap from the United States. The number of their negroes, wagons, -horses, and cattle, showed that these emigrants were in easy -circumstances. On account of the bad road, we went at first a good deal -on foot; at one of the creeks, the carriage passed through the ford, and -we footmen crossed over on one of the simplest bridges in the world, -namely, a felled pine tree of great size. We arrived at Montgomery about -two o'clock. In the night it had frozen, but the day had solaced us with -the warmth of spring. - -Montgomery lies on the Alabama river, a navigable stream, which rises -about two hundred and twenty miles above this place, and after it has -joined itself to the Tombigbee, empties into the Mexican gulf, below -Mobile. The town contains about one thousand two hundred inhabitants, -of both complexions. It has two streets, which are very broad, tolerably -good houses, one, not yet finished, of brick, which material is very bad -here. This place was first laid out about five years ago, and has -already a very lively appearance. On the bank of the river, they were -employed in loading two steam-boats with cotton bales, as, within a few -days, the river had risen five feet, and the navigation was once more -carried on with animation. - -The journey by water from Montgomery to Mobile, is four hundred miles, -and as we intended to go this way, we took a look at the two steam-boats -lying here, the Steubenville and Hornet, bound for Mobile. We chose the -Steubenville, which gave out to start on the next day. The construction -of both these boats, and their arrangement, was far inferior to that of -the steam-boats in the north: every thing was coarser, and displayed the -difference between the civilization of the two different sections of the -union. This town is so new, that the original forest still stands -between the houses. In a street there was a well digging; I discovered -by this that the earth was exceedingly well adapted to brick-making, and -that an industrious man, who should establish a kiln here, must make a -handsome profit on the business. The bricks which they sell here at ten -dollars a thousand, are scandalous. Of the inhabitants I heard nothing -commendable: and how can this young town, whose situation, at least in -summer, is unhealthy, have a fixed character; how can it attain a high -degree of cultivation? All come here for the purpose of amassing -property, or are driven here by the prostration of their fortunes, in -their old residence! - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - _Journey from Montgomery, on the Alabama river, to Mobile, and - residence in that city._ - - -The Steubenville, commanded by Captain Grover, is of one hundred and -seventy tons, and has a high pressure machine, of fifty horse-power. -Machines like these are very dangerous, and therefore prohibited in the -Netherlands. The machine of the Steubenville was made in Pittsburg. The -body of the boat is occupied by the cargo, the cabins are upon deck. The -dining-room had twelve births; behind this is a gallery with some -apartments; the last one was hired by us. Before we sailed, two Indians -came on board, who wondered very much at my double barrelled gun, with -percussion locks; they had never seen such fire-arms before; I permitted -them to discharge it, and gave them some of the copper caps, at which -present they testified great delight. - -We went down the river very swiftly, sixteen miles an hour. The banks of -the river near Montgomery are rather high, they consist of red earth, -with many spots of flint, and covered with willow-growth. We came only a -distance of eighteen miles, to a place called Washington, where the -Hornet lay, and where we also were stopped, to remain during the night -for the purpose of taking in wood and cotton. On account of the number -of sand banks, the navigation of the river must be dangerous; the -captain assured me that the experienced pilot then on board, had one -hundred dollars per month pay, so seldom are the officers of the boats -here, accustomed to the localities! - -The next morning we moved on at break of day, with considerable -rapidity; but we soon stopped again, to take in some cotton bales, which -lay ready in a wood on the shore. We had above four hundred bales -already on board. The hold of the boat was full, the space between the -machine and the first cabin was filled, as well as the space about the -cabins, and the roof over them. There was no room left for exercise in -walking, and in the cabin it was very dark. The first delay lasted about -an hour; as soon as we were in motion again, we were obliged to stop for -several hours, as one of the two pipes fell, and drew the other with it. -The steward standing near, was wounded. We pursued our journey about -midday, and laid by again towards sunset to take in wood, and remain for -the night, as the water in the river had fallen, and the sand banks were -numerous in this vicinity. - -We went on shore to look about, and found ourselves near to a plantation -with extensive cotton fields, a cotton gin, and a large cotton press. -There is a vast quantity of cotton seed left, more than is required for -the next year's planting, and the overplus is used for manure. I am well -convinced, that with a small trouble and little expense, a very good oil -could be expressed from this seed. It was thrown out in great heaps, -which contained so much heat, that it was impossible to keep my hand in -it a moment. The breadth of the river is here said to be three hundred -yards, but I cannot believe it to be so much. The right bank may be -about sixty feet high, it rests partly on sandstone, and consists of -many layers of soil; the left bank is lower. Both are grown up with -wood, close to the water's edge with willows, and farther back with -different sorts of trees; lofty oaks, live oaks, and white oaks, which -only flourish in the south, with plane trees, hickories, and other -nut-bearing trees, here and there with beech, ash, and alder, and also -with tall green cane. If it were not so warm and unhealthy during the -summer, a residence here would be delightful. We saw upon the river many -flocks of wild geese and ducks, and upon the shore several buzzards. The -river makes a number of turns, and contains several islands; yet the -most of them are merely sand banks. Upon them lie fallen trees, of which -passing vessels must take great care. On the banks were canoes, which, -in the Indian fashion, were hewed out of a single tree. - -On the 6th of January, the boat was under way before daybreak; she stopt -at Cahawba till ten o'clock, to take in wood. This place has its name -from a small river, which here flows into the Alabama. It lies upon the -right hand bank of the river, here rather high. It was founded about -five years ago, and it is already the capital of the state. With all -this advantage, it contains only three hundred inhabitants of all sorts, -and it is to be feared that its population will not increase, as the -present legislature of Alabama, has resolved to change the seat of -government to Tuscaloosa. - -A fatiguing and bad road goes from the landing to this village. It has -two very broad streets, which cut each other at right angles. Only four -or five houses are of brick, the others all built of wood; they stand at -a distance from one another. In the streets were erected two very plain -triumphal arches, in honour of General La Fayette. I was made acquainted -with Colonel Pickens, friend of Colonel Wool. He had formerly served in -the army, was afterwards governor of South Carolina, and now a planter -in Alabama. He carried us to the state-house, where the legislature was -in session.[II-1] He introduced me to Governor Murphy, in whose office -we passed half an hour, in conversing very pleasantly. The governor gave -me several details concerning the state. The greater part of it had been -bought from the Indians, and settled within ten years. It was first -received by congress as a state of the union in the year 1819. All -establishments within it, are of course very new. The staple productions -are Indian corn and cotton, which are shipped to Mobile, the sea port of -the state, and sold there. The bales of cotton average about forty -dollars. About forty miles hence, at the confluence of the Black Warrior -and the Tombigbee rivers, lies the town of Demopolis, formerly called -Eagleville. It was located by the French, who had come back from the -much promising Champ d'Asyle. This place attracted my curiosity in a -lively degree, and I would willingly have visited it. The governor and -the secretary of state, however, advised me strongly against this, as -there was nothing at all there worthy of observation. They related to me -what follows: - - [Footnote II-1: Accommodation is here so difficult to procure, - that the senators are obliged to sleep three upon one mattress - laid upon the floor: their food consists, it is said, almost - without exception of salted pork.] - -Alabama, as a territory, was under the especial superintendence of -congress. At that period a number of French arrived from the perishing -_Champ d'Asyle_ to the United States. At the head of them were the -Generals Lefebvre-Desnouettes, Lallemand and Rigaud; congress allowed -these Frenchmen a large tract of land upon a very long credit, almost -for nothing, under the promise that they would endeavour to plant the -vine and olive tree. Both attempts miscarried, either through the -neglect of the French, or that the land was too rich for the vine and -the olive. Some of these Frenchmen devoted themselves to the more -profitable cultivation of cotton; the most of them, however, disposed of -the land allotted to them very advantageously, spread themselves through -the United States, and sought a livelihood in a variety of ways. Some -were dancing and fencing masters, some fancy shopkeepers, and others in -Mobile and New Orleans, even croupiers at the hazard tables, that are -there licensed. General Rigaud betook himself at the time of the Spanish -revolution to Spain, there to contend against France, and may now be -living in England; General Lefebvre-Desnouettes, also went back to -Europe, as it was said to obtain the money collected in France for the -colony, and to bring out settlers; he lost his life some years ago in -the shipwreck of the Albion packet, on the Irish coast. General -Lallemand resorted to New York, where he is doing well. The Frenchmen, -with some of whom I afterwards conversed in New Orleans, insisted that -they had received none of the money collected for them. Eagleville, -since called Demopolis, has only one store, and a few log houses. It -lies in a very level country, and at the most only five Frenchmen, whose -names I could not obtain, are living there now, the remaining -inhabitants are Americans. - -After we had looked about the two streets of Cahawba, we embarked and -pursued our voyage. At our going on board, we remarked that Cahawba was -a depôt for cotton, which, partly in steam-boats, and partly in vessels -made of light wood, are transported down the river. These vessels have a -flat bottom, and are built in the form of a parallelogram. The part -under the water is pitched, and on the fore and back narrower ends, are -rudder oars, with which the boats are steered. The vessels are finished -in a very rough way; they are broken up in Mobile, and the timber sold. -They are known by the general title of flat boats. - -Some miles below Cahawba we stopped on the right bank, near the -plantation of Mr. Rutherford. There were still fifteen bales of cotton -to be taken in. While this was doing, we went on shore to take a walk, -where the bank was tolerably high. Mr. Rutherford's plantation has been -about six years in cultivation. The mansion-house is of wood, and built -as other log houses, but it is handsomely situated among live oaks and -pride of China trees. The entrance is shaded by a rose-tree. Around were -handsome, high and uncommonly thick sycamores, whose trunks appeared -white, elms, gum trees, and the above named (live oaks and Chinas) many -from a single trunk, also cane, that was at least twenty feet high. The -situation of the plantation was unhealthy, and Mr. R. a Georgian by -birth, told us that he carried his family for the sake of health to the -north every summer. We saw here several hundred paroquets flying round, -who kept up a great screaming. Many were shot. They are parrots, but of -a larger species than the common kind, clear green with yellow tips to -their wings, and orange-coloured heads, flesh-coloured bills, and long -green tails. We had before seen on the bank several astonishingly -numerous flocks of black birds. The banks of the river are here and -there one hundred feet high, they are composed of steep sandstone rock, -from which springs flow. - -By the accession of the new load of cotton bales, our vessel became too -heavily laden. She acquired a balancing motion, like a ship at sea. This -was exceedingly embarrassing in the numerous bends of the river, and to -avoid the danger of falling back, it was necessary to stop the machinery -at every turn. The fine dry weather which pleased us so much, was the -cause of the great fall in the water of the river. The change from high -to low water was very rapid. In the spring, as I was assured, the river -rose sixty feet and more, and inundated the high land near it. I could -not doubt the fact; for I saw upon the rocky banks the traces of the -high water. About dark we laid by on the right shore to take in wood. -We remained here for the night, and I had in a wretched lair an equally -wretched repose.[II-2] - - [Footnote II-2: In this part of the country, they have either - feather beds or moss mattresses; if these latter are old, the moss - clots together, and it is like lying on cannon-balls.] - -On the 7th of January, at six in the morning, our vessel was once more -in motion; soon, however, she stuck fast upon the sand. It required much -trouble to bring her off, and turn her round; the task occupied an hour -and a half. It was shortly before daybreak, and we were all in bed, if -such miserable cribs deserved the name. It had various effects upon our -travelling companions. Mr. Huygens rose in consternation from his bed, -and made a great disturbance. Mr. Bowdoin called to his servant, and -directed him to inquire what had happened. He was very uneasy when we -told him that we might lie several days, perhaps weeks here, to wait for -rain, and the consequent rise of the river. The colonel and I, who had -acquired by our long experience, a tolerable portion of recklessness, -remained in our cots, and left the matter to Providence, as we perceived -that the captain would rather disembark his cotton, which consumed -nothing, than to support much longer a number of passengers, all with -good appetites, who had agreed for their voyage at a certain price. When -we were again afloat, Mr. Bowdoin remarked with a face of great wisdom, -that he had foreseen that we should not long remain aground, as he had -not felt the stroke of the boat on the sand-bar. - -We passed the whole day without any further accident, the weather was -rather dull and drizzling. Nothing interesting occurred to our -observation. We passed by two steam-boats that had been sunk in the -river, of which the last, called the Cotton Plant, went down only a -month since. Both struck against trees in the river, and sank so slowly, -that all the passengers, and part of the cargo were saved. They were so -deep that only the wheel-houses raised themselves above the water. From -these boats already a part of the machinery has been taken out -piece-meal. - -In the afternoon we passed a little place called Claiborne, situated on -an eminence on the left bank of the river. Three miles below, we stopped -about sunset, on the right bank for wood. The name of the place is -Wiggins's Landing. It consists of two log-houses standing upon a height, -among old tall thin oak trees, which was settled by a Mr. Wiggins, with -his wife and children, a short time before. The houses had a very -picturesque appearance, and I was sorry that I could not take a sketch -of them. Mr. W. proposed to cut down the wood for the purpose of raising -cotton there. It was a pity to do so with this handsome grove, handsome, -although injured in its appearance by the Spanish moss which hangs from -the trees. Monsieur Chateaubriand compares the trees enveloped in this -moss to apparitions; in the opinion of Brackenridge, they resemble ships -under full sail, with which the air plays in a calm at sea. I, who never -beheld ghosts, nor possessed Mons. Chateaubriand's powers of -imagination, though I had seen sails tossing in the wind, compared these -trees in my prosaic mood, to tenter-hooks, on which beggars dry their -ragged apparel before some great holy-day. - -We were in hopes, that we should have made more progress during the -night, but the captain had become so prudent, and almost anxious, from -the sight of the two sunken steam-boats, that he determined to spend the -night at Wiggins's Landing. Formerly, near Claiborne, there was a -stockade, called Fort Claiborne, where an affair took place with the -Indians in the last war. This place is named in honour of the deceased -Mr. Claiborne, governor of the former Mississippi Territory, of which -the present state of Alabama formed a part, who died about eight years -ago, governor of the state of Louisiana, in New Orleans. He had taken -possession of Louisiana, in the name of the United States, which the -then existing French Government had sold to them. Mr. Claiborne was a -particular favourite and countryman of President Jefferson. He had by -his voice decided the presidential election in favour of Jefferson, -against his antagonist, Aaron Burr, for which Jefferson was gratefully -mindful during his whole life. - -On the 8th of January, we left our anchoring ground between six and -seven o'clock. The shores, which at first were pretty high, became by -degrees lower, they remained, however, woody, mostly of oak wood in -appearance, hung with long moss. Under the trees, grew very thick, and -uncommonly handsome cane, above twenty feet high. At the rise of the -river, these shores, often covered with water, are on this account -little inhabited. Taking it for granted that the population of Alabama -increases in numbers, and the higher land becomes healthier from -extirpation of the forest, without doubt dykes will be made on these -lower banks, to guard the land from inundation, and make it susceptible -of culture. Here and there rose sand banks out of the water, and also -several snags. We passed the place where the year before, a steam-boat, -the Henry Clay, was sunk; since which time, however, she has been set -afloat again. It is not very consolatory to the traveller, to behold -places and remains of such occurrences, particularly when they find -themselves on board such a miserable vessel as ours. Several -steam-boats, which at present navigate the Alabama, formerly ran on the -Mississippi, as this one did; they were judged too bad for that river, -and were, therefore, brought into this trade, by which their possessors -realized much money. We saw to-day many wild ducks and geese, on the -shores also, numbers of paroquets, which make a great noise; in the -river there were alligators, which are smaller than the Egyptian -crocodile. One of these creatures was lying on the shore of the bank, -and was sunning itself, yet too far from us, and our boat went too fast, -to permit of my seeing it distinctly, or of shooting at it. In the -afternoon we saw several small rivers, which flowed into the Alabama, or -ran out of it, forming stagnant arms, which are here called bayous. The -river itself takes extraordinary turns, and shapes out a variety of -islands. We afterwards reached the confluence of the rivers Alabama and -Tombigbee, where there is an island, and the country appears extremely -well. Both rivers united, take the name of Mobile river. - -About three miles below this junction, several wooden houses formed a -group on the right bank. Formerly, there was a stockade here, Fort -Stoddart, from which this collection of houses has its name. Here is the -line which forms the thirty-first degree of latitude, once the boundary -between the United States and the Spanish possessions. The Mobile river -still increased in breadth, and as the night commenced, seemed about -half a mile wide. The weather was very dark and cloudy, the pilot could -not distinguish his course, and although we approached close to the -city, we could proceed no farther, without exposing ourselves to danger. - -Early on the 9th of January it was extremely foggy. On this account a -boat was sent out to reconnoitre. The fog after some time cleared away a -little, and we found ourselves so near the wharves that we immediately -touched one of the piers, and landed about half past eight. We had -travelled four hundred and fifty miles from Montgomery. The journey by -land amounts only to two hundred and fifty-eight miles, and yet is -seldom performed, on account of the want of good roads and -accommodation. Being arrived at Mobile and extremely glad at having left -our wretched steam-boat, in which we had enjoyed no comfort, we took up -our residence in Smooth's Hotel, a wooden building, the bar-room of -which is at the same time the post-office, and therefore somewhat -lively. - -Mobile, an ancient Spanish town, yet still earlier occupied by the -French, was ceded with Louisiana, in 1803, to the United States. The few -respectable creole families, who had formerly dwelt here, left the place -at the cession, and withdrew to the island of Cuba, and none but those -of the lower classes remained behind. A new population was formed of the -North Americans, who came here to make money. From this cause, the -French as well as the Spanish language remains only among the lower -classes; the better society is thoroughly American. Mobile contains five -thousand inhabitants, of both complexions, of which about one thousand -may be blacks. The town lies on the right bank of the Florida river, -where it is divided into several arms, and has formed Mobile bay, which, -thirty miles below, joins the Mexican gulf. It is regularly built, the -streets are at right angles, part of them parallel with the river, the -rest perpendicular to it. Along the shore is a wooden quay, and wooden -piers or landing bridges project into the water, for the convenience of -vessels. There are lying here about thirty ships, of which several are -of four hundred tons, to be loaded with cotton. The most of them are -from New York. When the ebb tide draws off the water, a quantity of -filth remains uncovered on the shore, and poisons the atmosphere. This -circumstance may contribute its agency to the unhealthiness of the place -in summer. The shore opposite the harbour is marshy and full of cane. -The town lies upon a poor sandy soil; the streets are not paved, and -unpleasant from the depth of the sand. On both sides of the streets -there are paths made of strong plank, which divide the walk from the -cartway of the street, which will be converted into pavements when brick -or stone shall have become cheaper. - -The generality of the houses are of wood, covered with shingles, and -have piazzas. Some new houses only, are built of brick. This article -must be imported, and is not to be procured in large quantities of any -quality. As an example of this, I saw a house finished, of which the two -first stories were of red brick, and the third of yellow. There are also -here some Spanish houses which consist of timber frames, of which the -open spaces are filled up with beaten clay, like those of the German -peasantry. Besides several private houses, most of the public buildings -are of brick. These are, a theatre, which, besides the pit, has a row of -boxes and a gallery, the bank, the court of the United States, the -county court-house, the building of which was in progress, and the -prison. Near this prison stood the public whipping post for negroes. It -was constructed like a sash frame. The lower board on which the feet of -the unfortunate being were to stand, could be pushed up or down, to -accommodate the height of the individual. Upon it is a block, through -which the legs are passed. The neck and arms are passed through another. - -The Catholic church here is in a very miserable situation. I went into -it, just at the time the church seats were publicly rented for the year -to the highest bidders; two in my presence were disposed of for nineteen -dollars a piece. The church within resembles a barn, it had a high altar -with vessels of tin, and a picture of no value, also two little side -altars. - -A large cotton warehouse, of all the buildings in Mobile, most excited -my attention. This consists of a square yard, surrounded on three sides -by massive arcades, where the cotton bales coming from the country are -brought in, and preparatory to their shipment are again pressed, that -they may occupy as little room as possible in the vessel. The bales were -arranged on a layer of thick plank, between which there is room allowed -to pass the ropes through. Above the bales, which are placed between -four strong iron vices, is a cover, in which there is room left for the -ropes as below. These covers have four apertures, with female screws, -through which the vices pass. On every screw there is a face wheel. All -these four face wheels are driven by a crown wheel, which is put in -motion by a horse. The covers are thus screwed down on the bales, and -their bulk reduced one-third. During the pressure, the negro labourers -have drawn the ropes through the groves between the planks and fastened -the bales with little difficulty. This warehouse or magazine has two -such presses. It occupies three sides of the yard, the fourth contains a -handsome dwelling house. The whole is built of brick, and has an iron -verandah. It belongs to speculators in New Orleans, and is known by the -name of the "fire proof magazine," although the interior is of wood. - -The weather was very fine, and as warm as we have it in summer: I felt -it very much in walking, and most of the doors and windows in the houses -stood open. On this account I seated myself in the piazza before the -house. A number of Choctaw Indians, who led a wandering life in the -woods around the town, went about the streets selling wood, which they -carried in small billets, bound on their backs. They are of a darker -colour, and, if possible, still dirtier than the Creeks, they wrap -themselves also in blankets, and most of them wore round hats trimmed -with tin rings and pieces of tin. I walked through the streets of the -place, which contains several large stores, to all appearance well -stocked. In these excursions I found an old Brunswicker, named Thomas, -who kept a grog-shop here, and who showed me a young alligator, an ugly -animal, at most three months old. It was about eight inches long, and -was preserved in a tub of water, in which it was daily supplied with -fresh grass. When it was taken out of the water and placed on the sand, -it ran about with much alacrity. Its head was disproportionately large, -and it had already double rows of sharp teeth. - -In the afternoon we saw a volunteer company, of about twenty and upwards -strong, pretty well equipped, turn out to celebrate the anniversary of -the battle of New Orleans, the eighth of January, 1815. On the preceding -day, being Sunday, this festival was not commemorated. They had erected -a platform on an open spot of ground, and brought there three old iron -pieces, with which a national salute of twenty-four guns was fired. -Colonel Wool had many acquaintances and countrymen here, from the north, -to whom he introduced me. Conversation, therefore, did not fail us, -though many comforts of life are withheld for a period. Thus, for -example, I was deprived of milk so long as I was in the Indian -territory, as the cattle were driven into the woods during the winter, -to support themselves. - -I made an attempt to pass round the town, but was prevented on one side -by woods, and on the other, by ditches and marshes, so that I found -myself limited in my promenade to the streets. These, however, -I measured to my heart's content. There was nothing new to me but some -fruit shops, in which were excellent oranges from Cuba, at six cents a -piece, large pine apples, much larger than the finest I had seen in -England, also from Cuba, at forty-two and three-quarter cents a piece, -thus much dearer than in Charleston, where they cost but twelve and a -half cents a piece, besides bananas and cocoa nuts in abundance. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - _Travels to Pensacola._ - - -Colonel Wool was obliged to go to Pensacola, in pursuance of his duty of -inspection. I determined to accompany him with Mr. Huygens, as Pensacola -was interesting to me as a military man. Mr. Bowdoin felt himself -unwell, and was tired of travelling. He remained, therefore, in Mobile, -with the intention of going to New Orleans by the first opportunity. - -On the 10th of January, we left Mobile in the steam-boat Emeline. This -vessel goes daily from Blakely, which lies on the left shore of the bay, -to Mobile, and back again. The distance amounts, in a straight line, to -about twelve miles; some marshy islands covered with cane and shallows, -lengthen the passage to fourteen miles. The Emeline, Captain Fowler, is -the smallest steam-boat that I ever saw. She is only of thirty-two tons -burthen, is built of planks, which are laid over each other without -ribs, like a skiff, and the engine, a low pressure, has only eight -horse-power. The boat belongs to the captain, and, with its engine, was -constructed in New York. When it left that city to sail for Mobile, no -insurance company would undertake to underwrite it, and Mr. Fowler was -compelled to come on his individual risk. His capital embarked in it, -will, nevertheless, produce a very good profit. Yet the smallest -steam-boats which navigate the Florida and Alabama rivers, are insured. -Some are too old and rotten for any company to insure, especially as the -navigation on these rivers is so dangerous, that the few good vessels -must give one per cent. monthly, as a premium. - -From the water side, Mobile, with its ships in harbour, has a pretty -appearance. We had also a handsome view of Mobile Bay, in which we -counted nine ships of various sizes stretching in. A number of wild -ducks flew about among the islands. In two hours we crossed the bay, and -landed at five o'clock in the evening at Blakely. - -This place has a very good situation, on rather an elevated bank, in a -grove nearly composed of live oaks, of which some are full twenty feet -in circumference. A bushy kind of palm tree grows here which is called -Spanish bayonet, which appears to partake of the nature of the macaw -trees. Blakely was founded in the year 1816, by a Mr. Blakely, dead -about five years since, and then sold to various speculators. This place -was established to injure Mobile, and to draw the commerce of that place -away from it. The design has, however, failed of success. Mobile is -superior in capital, and Blakely has injured itself alone. Upon the -shore stand two large wooden buildings in ruins, the smallest part of -them only is rented, and used as stores. On the eminence behind these -buildings are placed about twenty wooden houses, of which the largest is -the only tavern, and it is really a respectable one. We took our lodging -there. The houses are very neatly built, with projecting roofs and -piazzas, and surrounded with gardens. Some, however, are deserted, and -exhibit the decay of the place. A large wooden edifice two stories high, -provided with a cupola, was originally intended for an academy; from the -want of scholars, this academy has never been in operation, the building -therefore is used as a place of worship, and as a court-house. The -number of inhabitants cannot exceed two hundred. - -During our ramble it had become dark; the moon was in her first quarter. -The air was as warm as in a fine May evening in Germany. All was -pleasant and cheerful, and only our recollection that this handsome -country was poisonous in summer, produced a discord with the scene. In -the evening I sat and wrote in one of the rooms of the tavern with open -doors and windows, and heard the sparrow chirp as if it were summer. -I had noticed very few sweet orange trees in this part of the country, -and the few which I saw were small and young. As I manifested my -surprise, the reason was given, that the numerous orange trees which -formerly were here, had been all killed in the winter of 1821-22, by a -four day's frost. - -Before we commenced our journey the next morning, I found in the earth -several pieces of petrified live oak. The mineral riches of this -district are not yet explored. I imagine, that a mineralogist, who -should here prosecute his researches, might reap a rich harvest. - -We hired a two-horse barouche, which was to carry us to Pensacola, -sixty-five miles distant from Blakely. In this, we departed about ten -o'clock in the morning, well stocked with plenty of provision, which, -in this country, so destitute of inns, was considered as a necessary -supply. Close to Blakely we ascended a hill, which afforded us a very -beautiful view of the town, the bay of Mobile, and of a valley watered -by a stream, with the richest prospect of vegetation I ever beheld. The -grove before us was full of magnolias of all sizes, of laurels, and an -evergreen bush that was called the water oak; and among them all, the -most splendid live oaks. Unfortunately this lovely country did not reach -very far. Scarcely a short mile from Blakely, the good soil ceased, and -the wearisome sand and long-leaved pines began once more. We advanced -but thirty miles during the day; a delicious warm state of the weather, -however, cheered us. At first we found several plantations which the -inhabitants of Blakely, in somewhat easy circumstances, resorted to -during the summer, when the yellow fever occupied that place. On some of -these plantations, the dry rice, (so called from the fields which -produce it lying so high that they cannot be overflowed,) is cultivated. -This rice is little inferior to the swamp rice of South Carolina, and -will yield fifty bushels to the acre. I regaled myself with the melody -of several birds, of which most were robins, birds of passage, which -live through the winter in these southern countries, and in the spring, -approach the north, there to announce it. I saw also several cranes. To -complete the illusion, that it was summer, a number of frogs lent their -aid, and croaked loudly from the marshes. - -We halted at noon, in a shady place, near a clear brook, and dispatched -a part of our provisions, seated on a dry green turf. For the first time -in my life, a shade in January was a desirable object. The night -overtook us before we reached our lodgings for the night, which we -intended to take up at a place called Belle Fontaine. The road was -hardly discernible, for it was so little travelled, that grass grew in -the tracks, and the stumps of trees were as difficult to avoid, as they -were frequent. We risked oversetting more than once. To avoid such an -accident, we determined to proceed on foot. We took in this way, a walk -of at least six miles, in an unbroken pine forest, inhabited by bears, -wolves, and even panthers. At first we had the light of the moon; about -nine o'clock it went down, and we had considerable difficulty to keep -the road. As the dwellings were scattering from each other, we imitated -the barking of dogs, to give them an opportunity to answer in the same -language. This succeeded; we heard dogs bark, moved in the direction -whence the sound came, and reached about ten o'clock, the desired Belle -Fontaine, a log house with two rooms, or cabins, and a cleared opening -before it. A man of rather unpromising appearance, the landlord, Mr. -Pollard, admitted us, and took charge of our horses. His wife, a pale, -sickly looking being, who hardly returned an answer to our questions, -was obliged to rise from her bed, to prepare us a supper and -sleeping-room. The whole establishment had at first, the look of a -harbour for robbers, but there was well roasted venison prepared for us, -on a neat table, and tolerable coffee, for which we had, luckily, -brought sugar along with us. It was really comfortable, though our -chamber remained open the whole night, as there was no door, and only -two beds were furnished. - -The 12th of January we left our quarters at seven in the morning, and -travelled thirty-two miles to Pensacola. Twelve miles from Belle -Fontaine brought us to a stand at the Perdido, where we breakfasted at a -plantation, situated on the right bank of the river. This stream forms -the boundary between Alabama and the territory of Florida, which does -not yet contain inhabitants sufficient to entitle it to a reception -among the states of the Union. The river is small, its banks sandy, and -we crossed it in a poor ferry-boat. On the banks, as generally through -the whole of that district, I saw many bushy palms, here called -palmattoes. The soil on the whole, was as bad as that we saw yesterday, -the growth was pine; there is fresh vegetation only about the springs. -The air grew still warmer, we saw a few butterflies. As we approached -Pensacola, the pines ceased, and we moved through dwarf oaks. The soil -was a deep sand; we passed by a marsh full of water oaks. - -Pensacola, which we reached about five o'clock, lies upon a bay of the -ocean. It is an ancient Spanish town, and was surrendered by Spain with -all Florida, to the United States in 1821. It contains about one -thousand inhabitants. We lodged ourselves in Collins's Hotel, and went, -immediately on our arrival, to walk about the town. It is the most -miserable place that I have beheld since I crossed the Atlantic. Such -Spaniards as possessed any property have left this place, when it was -ceded to the United States, and have moved off either to New Orleans, or -the island of Cuba. Only the poorest of them have remained. Since that -time, the Americans settled here, have, as at Mobile, created a new -population. The deepest sand covers the unpaved streets, which are -broad, and regularly laid out. Only a few new houses are of brick, they -are mostly of wood, and stand at a considerable distance from each -other. There is not a single ship in the port. A new market-house of -brick is building upon the shore, and not far from it stands the wooden -catholic church, the outside of which appears in a forlorn condition. -Near the church are the ruins of an old English barrack, which was burnt -about four years ago; its two wings were covered by two block houses of -logs, which are standing, one of which serves for a custom-house. About -the town several block houses have stood, which formerly afforded a good -protection against the Seminole Indians, the original inhabitants of -this section of country. - -In the evening of this day, and on the next morning we received visits -from several officers, from Colonel Clinch, commandant of the 4th -regiment of infantry, who was posted here with Major Wright and others. -Captain Campbell of the Marine Corps, who had the command of the new -navy-yard, that was to be established here: some supplies had arrived, -and were put in store at Fort Barrancas. As we wished to see this fort, -the gentlemen were so polite as to accommodate us with their boats. - -I went with Colonel Wool in Captain Campbell's boat. We had a favourable -wind, and spreading two sails we reached fort Barrancas, nine miles by -sea from Pensacola, in an hour. On the way we saw a flock of sixteen -pelicans. On account of the point of land stretching into the bay, we -had to make a circuit; it was called Tartar point, and the new navy-yard -is to be upon it. It is thought that it will be commenced in two months. -The country about Pensacola and the shores of the bay are the most -disagreeable that can be conceived of; nothing but sand heaps -dazzling-white like snow. In the bay lies a level island, St. Rosa, with -a growth of dwarf oaks. On it had been erected a fort, which was blown -up by the English, when they occupied Pensacola in the year 1814, to -support the Creek Indians then at war with the United States, and were -compelled to evacuate it by General Jackson. The English blew up also a -part of Fort Barrancas at the same time, but the Spaniards have -reinstated it, although on a smaller scale; thus it remains at present. - -The cannon are of brass, English and Spanish. Among the latter I -observed two very fine twenty-four pounders, cast in Seville. Nothing -can be more unhandy than the Spanish gun-carriages, they have wheels, -which at the outside measure four feet in diameter. - -In the gorge of the works, there is a large bomb-proof casemate, and in -the yard a furnace for red-hot shot. The whole of the work is built of -sand, therefore the wall outside, and the parapet inside, are covered -with upright planks, and the cheeks of the embrazures in the same -manner. The Spanish cannon, also mounted on the clumsiest carriages, are -placed in battery. The fort was temporarily given up to the marines, who -employed the casemates and block houses for magazines, till the -requisite preparations could be made in the navy-yard. At that period, -the fort will be dismantled, and in its place a respectable fortress -will be erected to defend this important point. - -It is of the highest consequence to the United States, to have an -extensive maritime and military position on the Mexican gulf, on account -of the increasing power of the new South American Republics. -Nevertheless, Pensacola can only be of secondary ability to fill such a -station, since the sand bank lying in the mouth of the bay, has only -twenty-two feet upon it at high water; and necessarily, is too shallow -for ships of the line, or even American frigates of the first class. -Besides, upon the whole coast of the Gulf of Mexico, there is but one -single bay, (and this is situated southward of La Vera Cruz,) in which -armed ships of the line can pass in and out. The pieces of ordnance -placed upon the walls, as well as some forty lying upon the beach, half -covered with sand, of old Spanish and English cannon, are, as is said, -perfectly unserviceable. - -Outside of the fort, about two hundred paces distant from it, along the -sea-coast, stands a light house built of brick, about eighty feet high, -in which twenty lamps in divisions of five, constantly turn upon an axis -in a horizontal movement during the night. They are set in motion by -clock-work, and were prepared in Roxbury, near Boston. I saw the model -in the patent office at Washington. The lamps are all furnished with -plated reflectors, and are fed with spermaceti oil. The land about the -fort is for the most part sandy, and produces only pines naturally, -these however have been rooted out, and dwarf oaks and palmettoes have -since sprouted out. - -I have mentioned General Jackson above, and surmised that he had driven -the English out of Pensacola. I add to this remark the following: the -Seminoles, as it is asserted, manifestly stirred up by the English, -without the least provocation, commenced a war against the United -States, in the year 1818. General Jackson defeated them, and directed -the two Englishmen, Arbuthnot and Ambrister, who had sold weapons and -ammunition to the Indians, as well as stimulated them to war against the -United States, to be hanged. After this, he attacked Pensacola and the -Barrancas, where the Indians were sheltered and protected by the Spanish -authorities. The town of Pensacola was poorly fortified and soon -mastered. General Jackson then opened a cannonade of two pieces of -artillery on Fort Barrancas. The Spanish governor hid himself under the -steps of the coast battery, and surrendered the fort, since by the -agreeing statement of two captains, the garrison refused to fight, -(consisting of three companies of the Spanish regiment of Louisiana,) -because they had not received their pay for some time. "Audacibus -fortuna juvat!" - -On the 14th of January I took a walk in front of the town to view the -former fortifications of this place. These works owe their foundation to -the English. England, indeed avowedly possessed this country, West -Florida, from 1763 to 1783; at the treaty of Versailles, it was fully -given up to Spain, after it had been conquered by Don Galvez, then -governor of Louisiana, who afterwards was Viceroy of Mexico. The best -defence of Pensacola consists in the marshes which surround it. Beyond -the marshes lie undistinguishable sand hillocks, which were occupied by -forts. A thousand paces in front of the town, to the left of the road -leading to Mobile, lies a fort. - -The form of this fort, I made out from the remains grown over with -bushes. Behind it was open, and there are still the ruins of a -bomb-proof powder magazine, built of brick, which the English blew up in -1814. It appeared partly covered with timber. A thousand paces farther -to the left, are the ruins of another somewhat larger fort, upon another -small eminence so disposed as to command the interior of the first. It -appears to have been calculated for from four to five hundred men, while -the first could only shelter two hundred. The ramparts of both are -composed merely of sand, and the high bushes of various species, which -flourish to a remarkable degree on the ruins, exhibit the productive -force of the climate. The soil around the forts, also consisting of sand -only, yields palmettoes and dwarf oaks. I had remarked the same soil -upon the land side of Fort Barrancas, and besides cactus, some of which -grew in a screw-like form through the bricks, many of them in the driest -sand. In 1782, a handful of Waldeckers, then in English pay, defended -these works against fifteen thousand Spaniards, and in the absence of an -English engineer, the captain there, and the present Lieutenant-General -Heldring, of the Netherlands, discharged that duty. - -Colonel Walton, secretary of state of Florida, who had just returned in -a vessel from Talahasse, told me so much of the beautiful situation, and -delicious country about that town, only laid out within a year, as well -as of the interior of Florida, with its rising and falling springs and -lakes, the discharge of which no one was acquainted with, that I was -sorry I could not visit that place, to which the fourth regiment had -marked out a road. Thirty miles from Talahasse, Prince Achille Murat, in -company with the former colonel, now Mr. Gadsden, purchased much land, -on which he will cultivate maize, cotton and sugar. M. Murat must be a -young man of great spirit. It is, however, charged against him, that he -has addicted himself to a low familiar behaviour, in which he appears to -wish to excel; that he chews tobacco constantly, &c. - -I paid a visit to the catholic clergyman of this place, Abbé Mainhout, -a native of Waerschot, in East Flanders. The Abbé came in 1817, with the -bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, as a missionary to the United States. -This excellent man does very little credit to the climate, he is now -just recovering from a severe fit of sickness. He is universally -esteemed and loved on account of his exemplary conduct and learning: and -as he is the only clergyman in the place, the inhabitants of whatever -persuasion they may be, resort to his church. He was pleased with my -visit, particularly, as I brought him news from his native land. - -Colonel Clinch sent us his carriage, to carry us to the quarters, where -Colonel Wool was to hold his inspection. Since the English barracks have -been burnt, the troops have been stationed out of town in preference, -from apprehension of the yellow fever. There is a large wooden barracks -built in a healthy situation, on an eminence two miles from town on the -road to the Barrancas, for the troops. These barracks in the phrase of -this service are called cantonments, this one, after the colonel, is -named cantonment Clinch. It consists of ten log-houses built in a row, -under one roof. Each house is for a company, and contains two rooms. -Before this long range of barracks, is a large parade, with a flag -staff. Opposite to this are the officers quarters. The officers of each -company have a house, which stands opposite to the barrack of their own -soldiers. Behind the long building for the men, is the range of -kitchens; behind this is the guard house and prisoners room, and still -farther back in the woods, the etcetera. On the right wing is the -colonel's house, placed in a garden surrounded by a palisade. The house -is built of wood, two stories high, and furnished with a piazza below, -and a gallery above. Upon the left wing, stands a similar building -appointed for the residence of the lieutenant colonel and major; at -present, however, arranged as an hospital, as the first officer commands -in Tampa Bay, and the major in Fort Mitchel. The cantonment has its -front towards the bay; at the foot of the eminence on which it stands, -is a bayou, and the appearance is really handsome. The colonel has only -two officers and about twenty men, with the regimental surgeon, so that -the inspection was soon completed. - -After dinner we returned to the town, and passed the evening in a very -pleasant party at Mr. Walton's, which was given from politeness to me. -I found here several Creole ladies of the place, who spoke bad French, -but looked very well, and were dressed with taste. Conversation was our -only amusement, but this was animated and well supported. - -On the 15th of January we left Pensacola, at eight o'clock in the -morning, to return to Mobile by the same way we came. We encountered a -skunk, something larger than a cat, with a thick, hairy, and erect tail. -This creature cannot run with agility, and we could easily have caught -it. We, however, suffered it to go quietly to its hole, as it scatters -its effluvium when disturbed, and if the least piece of clothing be -touched by it, it must be thrown away entirely, as there is no method of -freeing it from the detestable smell. If a dog is sprinkled by it he -become almost sick, whines, and throws himself about for some time on -the earth. We passed also two wolf-traps, resembling our rat-traps, but -of course constructed on a larger scale. - -We made a short stay at the house on Perdido river. We met with a -planter from the banks of the Alabama, who had come here to take back -one of his negroes, whom he had hired before to the mistress of this -house and ferry. He had treated the poor creature with such barbarity, -that the negro not far from the house had threatened him with the knife, -and had ran back. The man had put us across the river, but as soon as he -saw his master, he ran away quickly, and was no more to be seen. The -gentleman asked us to assist him in arresting and detaining his negro, -but we unanimously rejected his proposal with disgust. Some days before, -the negro had pleased me much by his lively and agreeable disposition, -while his master and tormentor appeared to me, in every respect, highly -the reverse. - -About five o'clock in the afternoon we reached the same log-house in -which we had passed the night, near Belle Fontaine. As it was still -daylight, I went immediately in search of the spring to which this place -owes its name; I found, however, only a marsh with several springs, -about which, except the vegetation, there was nothing attractive. The -landlord was not at home, and the whole domestic management rested on -the poor pale wife, who had five children to take care of, and expected -a sixth soon. She had for an assistant a single little negro wench, who -was soon sent away, so the poor woman had every thing to provide; yet -she set before us an excellent supper. - -Towards morning, I was roused out of my uneasy slumbers by a powerful -uproar. It was caused by cranes that flew over the house. At eight -o'clock in the morning we left Belle Fontaine and travelled back to -Blakely, where we arrived before five o'clock in the evening, and took -possession of our former quarters. Through the whole passage back, not -the least thing occurred worthy of remark. A good road could be made at -little expense between Blakely and Pensacola, at least the numerous -large trees, which after violent storms have fallen transversely over -the road and shut it up, might be cleared away. One is obliged often to -make a considerable circuit on account of these trees. - -On the following morning at ten o'clock, we embarked once more on board -the steam-boat Emeline, and in very fine, though cold weather, reached -Mobile at twelve o'clock. We found Mr. Bowdoin confined to his bed, with -the gout in both legs. We immediately betook ourselves to the harbour. -During our absence, the packet schooner Emblem, Captain Vincent, from -New Orleans, had arrived here, and designed returning to that city. The -captain had heard of us, and remained some time to take us along. His -vessel stood in very high repute, as well for her sailing, as on account -of accommodation and cleanliness. We agreed for the passage at fifteen -dollars for each person. The vessel would have sailed exactly on this -day, but as the captain had understood that we were desirous of seeing -the new fort on Mobile point, which was built thirty miles from Mobile, -he was so polite as to postpone his voyage till the next morning, to -allow us to see the fort by daylight. - -Of course, we had some time on our hands. We took a walk in the woods -situated behind the town, which is composed of pines, and some evergreen -bushes. It is also the great burial-ground, which is thickly filled up -by the agency of the yellow fever, and the sickly climate. Several -Choctaw Indians bivouacked here, like gypsies; the men lay drunk upon -the earth, and their miserable women were obliged to carry the bundles -of wood to town for sale. - -To my great astonishment, I learned that there were gambling-houses even -here, kept by Frenchmen, and that each in the city paid a yearly tax of -one thousand dollars for a license. I was told that respectable -merchants were in the habit of going there to have an eye over their -clerks, and also to observe what mechanics, or other small tradesmen, -played here, to stop giving credit to such as haunted the resorts of -these gentry. I was taken to two of these gambling-houses, which are -united with coffee-houses, to see how they were conducted. In one of -them were two roulette tables, in two separate rooms, in the other, -which was smaller, one roulette and one pharo table. There was betted -here silver and paper, but not more than twenty dollars bank notes, and -most of them did not bet more than a dollar a time. A couple of young -fellows lost all that they had, and behaved very indecently when they -were stripped of their money. Several of the better sort appeared to be -country people, who had brought their corn and cotton to market, and -only played off their profits. At one of the tables sat some common -sailors, half drunk. We found rather low company collected in both -houses, and our curiosity was soon satisfied. It is to be hoped, that -the legislature of Alabama will prohibit such houses. They are, on the -whole, very good places for recruiting the army and navy! - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - _Journey to New Orleans, and Residence in that City._ - - -On the 18th of January, we embarked in the schooner Emblem, whose cabin -was proportioned to her tonnage, (which was but fifty tons,) but -comfortably high, and well ornamented. The sides were of mahogany and -maple; on each side were two state-rooms, with two births each; the back -part of the cabin, being something higher than the forward part, -contained a birth on each side. Of these, the starboard was occupied by -Mr. Bowdoin, the other by myself. - -The shores of Mobile Bay, which is very wide, are low and overgrown with -wood, before us lay a long island, called Isle Dauphine, by the -unfortunate Delasalle, who discovered it. Mobile point lies to the left, -where, after sunset, we beheld the light in the light-house. There stood -on this point in the late war a small fort, called Fort Bowyer, which -the present Lieutenant-Colonel, then Major Lawrence, gallantly defended, -with a garrison of one hundred and thirty men, against eight hundred -disembarked English sailors and Seminole Indians, under Major Nichols. -The assailants were defeated, after their ordnance was dismounted, with -considerable loss, and the English corvette Hermes, which covered the -attack, was blown up by the well-directed fire of the fort. In February, -1815, this brave officer found himself obliged to yield to superior -force, and to capitulate to Admiral Cockburn, who was on his return from -the unsuccessful expedition to New Orleans. This was the last act of -hostility that occurred during that war. Fort Bowyer is since -demolished, and in its stead a more extensive fortress is erecting, -which we would willingly have inspected, had the wind been more -favourable, and brought us there earlier. We steered between Mobile -Point and Dauphin Island, so as to reach the Mexican gulf, and turning -then to the right, southward of the Sandy Islands, which laid along the -coast, sailed towards Lake Borgne. Scarcely were we at sea, when a -strong wind rose from the west, which blew directly against us. We -struggled nearly the whole night to beat to windward, but in vain. The -wind changed to a gale, with rain, thunder, and lightning. The -main-topmast was carried away, and fell on deck. The mate was injured by -the helm striking him in the side, and was for a time unfit for duty. On -account of the great bustle on deck, the passengers could hardly close -an eye all night. The motion of the vessel was violent, on account of -her small size. A falling block broke out several of the panes in the -sky-light of the cabin, so that the rain was admitted, and the furniture -was tossed about by the rolling. - -On the morning of the 19th of January, we were driven back to the strait -between Dauphin Island and Mobile Point, and the anchor was dropt to -prevent farther drifting. I was sea-sick, but had the consolation that -several passengers shared my misfortune. The whole day continued -disagreeable, cold, and cloudy. As we lay not far from Dauphin Island, -several of our company went on shore, and brought back a few thrushes -which they had shot. I was too unwell to feel any desire of visiting -this inhospitable island, a mere strip of sand, bearing nothing but -everlasting pines. Upon it, stands some remains of an old entrenchment -and barrack. Besides the custom-house officers, only three families live -on the whole island. We saw the light-house, and the houses at Mobile -Point, not far from us. I wished to have gone there to see the -fortification lately commenced, but it was too far to go on a rough sea -in a skiff. - -On the 20th of January, the wind was more favourable; it blew from the -north-east, and dispersed the clouds, and we set sail. After several -delays, caused by striking on sand-banks, we proceeded with a favourable -wind, passed Dauphin Island and the islands Petit Bois, Massacre, Horn, -and Ship Island. - -These islands consist of high sand-hills, some of them covered with -pine, and remind one strongly of the coasts of Holland and Flanders. -Behind Horn and Massacre Islands lies a bay, which is called Pascagoula, -from a river rising in the state of Mississippi, and emptying here into -the sea. Ship Island is about nine miles long, and it was here that the -English fleet which transported the troops sent on the expedition -against New Orleans, remained during the months of December and January, -1814-15. At a considerable distance from us to the left, were some -scattered islands, called Les Malheureux. Behind these were the islands -De la Chandeleur, and still farther La Clef du Francmaçon. Afterwards we -passed a muddy shallow, upon which, luckily, we did not stick fast, and -arrived in the gulf Lac Borgne, which connects itself with Lake -Ponchartrain, lying back of it, by two communications, each above a mile -broad; of which one is called Chef Menteur, and the other the Rigolets. -Both are guarded by forts, the first by the fort of Chef Menteur, the -other by that of the Petites Coquilles, so called because it is built on -a foundation of muscle shells, and its walls are composed of a cement of -the same. We took this last direction, and passed the Rigolets in the -night, with a fair wind. Night had already fallen when we reached Lake -Borgne. After we had passed the Rigolets, we arrived in Lake -Ponchartrain, then turned left from the light-house of Fort St. John, -which protects the entrance of the bayou of the same name, leading to -New Orleans. - -I awoke on the 21st of January, as we entered the bayou St. John. This -water is so broad, that we could not see the northern shore. We remained -at the entrance one hour, to give the sailors a short rest, who had -worked the whole night, and whose duty it was now to tow the vessel to -the city, six miles distant. This fort, which has lost its importance -since the erection of Chef Menteur, and Petites Coquilles, is abandoned, -and a tavern is now building in its place. It lies about five hundred -paces distant from the sea, but on account of the marshy banks cannot be -thence attacked without great difficulty. The bank is covered with thick -beams, to make it hold firm, which covering in this hot and damp climate -perishes very quickly. The causeway which runs along the bayou, is of -made earth on a foundation of timber. Behind the fort is a public house, -called Ponchartrain Hotel, which is much frequented by persons from the -city during summer. I recognized the darling amusements of the -inhabitants, in a pharo and roulette table. - -As the passage hence to the city is very tedious in stages, we proposed -to hire a carriage, but there was none to be found; six dollars was -asked for a boat; we therefore, decided to go on foot. The Colonel, Mr. -Huygens, Mr. Egbert, Mr. Chew, and myself made up this walking party. -The morning was beautiful spring weather; we passed through a shocking -marshy country, along the right side of the bayou. The woods were -hanging full of the hateful Spanish moss, and a number of palmettoes -were the only variety afforded. The causeway was very muddy; there were -good wooden bridges over little ditches, which conveyed the water from -the surrounding marshes into the bayou. - -After we had proceeded three miles in this manner, we came into a -cultivated district, passed a sort of gate, and found ourselves quite in -another world. Plantations, with handsome buildings, followed in quick -succession; noble live oaks, which had been trimmed to regular shapes, -young orange trees, pride of China, and other tropical trees and bushes, -along the road. Several inns and public gardens were exhibited, for a -population that willingly seeks amusement. We noticed several -mansion-houses, ornamented with columns, piazzas, and covered galleries; -some of these were of ancient style in building. It was naturally -agreeable to me, after wandering a long time in mere wildernesses, once -more to come into a long civilized country. We saw from afar, the white -spires of the cathedral of New Orleans, also the masts of the ships -lying in the Mississippi. The bayou unites itself, three miles from this -city, with a canal leading thither, which we passed upon a turning -bridge, to strike into the city by a nearer way. - -This road carried us between well-built mansions, and over the streets -were hung reflecting lamps. The first view of the city, as we reached, -without knowing it, was really not handsome; for we came into the oldest -section, which consisted only of little one-story houses, with mud -walls, and wide projecting roofs. On the whole, the streets are -regularly laid out, part parallel with the river, the rest perpendicular -to it. The ancient town was surrounded by a wall, which is destroyed, in -its room there is a boulevard laid out, called Rue de Remparts. Next to -the old town below, lies the suburb Marigny, and above, that of St. -Mary; then begins the most elegant part of the city. - -Before we searched for lodgings, we looked about a little through the -city, and went first to the Mississippi, to pay our homage to this -"father of rivers." It is about half a mile wide, and must be above -eighty fathoms deep; it is separated from the city by a compost of -muscle shells. This causeway defends it from inundations. There are no -wharves, they cannot be fixed, as the river would sweep them away. The -ships lay four and five deep, in tiers along the bank, as in the Thames, -at London. Below them, were ten very large steam-boats, employed in the -river trade. In a line with the bank stood houses, which were two or -three stories high, and built of brick, also ancient massive Spanish -houses, known by their heavy, solid style, and mostly white. We passed -by a square, of which the river formed one side, opposite stood the -cathedral, and on each side of it, a massive public edifice, with -arcades. Along the bank stood the market-houses, built of brick, -modelled after the Propylæa, in Athens, and divided into separate -blocks. We saw in these, fine pine-apples, oranges, bananas, -peccan-nuts, cocoa-nuts, and vegetables of different descriptions; also -several shops, in which coffee and oysters were sold. The black -population appeared very large; we were informed, that above one-half of -the inhabitants, forty-five thousand in number, were of the darker -colour. The custom-house on the Levée, is a pretty building. - -We met a merchant, Mr. Ogden, partner of Mr. William Nott, to whose -house I had letters, who had the politeness to take charge of us, and -assist us in our search for lodgings. We obtained tolerable quarters in -the boarding house of Madame Herries, Rue de Chartres. The first person -I encountered in this house, was Count Vidua, with whom I had become -acquainted in New York, and who since had travelled through Canada, the -western country, and down the Ohio and Mississippi. - -My first excursion was to visit Mr. Grymes, who here inhabits a large, -massive, and splendidly furnished house. I found only Mrs. Grymes at -home, who after an exceedingly fatiguing journey arrived here, and in -fourteen days after had given birth to a fine son. I found two elegantly -arranged rooms prepared for me, but I did not accept this hospitable -invitation. After some time Mr. Grymes came home, and accompanied me -back to my lodgings. As our schooner had not yet arrived, we went to -meet it and found it in the canal, a mile and a half from town, where -two cotton boats blocked up the way. We had our baggage put into the -skiff, and came with it into the basin, where the canal terminates. - -In the evening we paid our visit to the governor of the state of -Louisiana, Mr. Johnson, but did not find him at home. After this we went -to several coffee-houses, where the lower class amused themselves, -hearing a workman singing in Spanish, which he accompanied with the -guitar. Mr. Grymes took me to the masked ball, which is held every -evening during the carnival at the French theatre. The saloon in which -they danced, was quite long, well planned, and adorned with large -mirrors. Round it were three rows of benches amphitheatrically arranged. -There were few masks, only a few dominos, none in character. Cotillions -and waltzes were the dances performed. The dress of the ladies I -observed to be very elegant, but understood that most of those dancing -did not belong to the better class of society. There were several -adjoining rooms open, in which there is a supper when subscription balls -are given. In the ground floor of the building are rooms, in which pharo -and roulette are played. These places were obscure, and resembled -caverns: the company playing there appeared from their dress, not to be -of the best description. - -Next day, we made new acquaintances, and renewed some old ones. -I remained in this city several weeks, for I was obliged to give up my -plan of visiting Mexico, as no stranger was allowed to go to that -country who was not a subject of such states as had recognized the new -government. There were too many obstacles in my way, and therefore I -determined to wait in New Orleans for the mild season, and then to -ascend the Mississippi. The result was an extensive acquaintance, -a succession of visits, a certain conformity in living, from which one -cannot refrain yielding to in a city. No day passed over this winter -which did not produce something pleasant or interesting, each day -however, was nearly the same as its predecessors. Dinners, evening -parties, plays, masquerades, and other amusements followed close on each -other, and were interrupted only by the little circumstances which -accompany life in this hemisphere, as well as in the other. - -The cathedral in New Orleans is built in a dull and heavy style of -architecture externally, with a gable on which a tower and two lateral -cupolas are erected. The façade is so confused, that I cannot pretend to -describe it. Within, the church resembles a village church in Flanders. -The ceiling is of wood, the pillars which support it, and divide the -nave into three aisles, are heavy, made of wood, covered with plaster: -as well as the walls, they are constructed without taste. The three -altars are distinguished by no remarkable ornament. Upon one of the side -altars stands an ugly wax image of the virgin and child. Near the great -altar is a throne for the bishop. On Sundays and holy-days, this -cathedral is visited by the beau monde; except on these occasions, -I found that most of the worshippers consisted only of blacks, and -coloured people, the chief part of them females. - -The sinking of the earth of the Levée is guarded against in a peculiar -way. In Holland piles are driven in along the water for this purpose, -and held together by wattling. After the dam is raised up, there are -palisades of the same kind placed behind each other. Here the twigs of -the palmetto are inserted in the ground close together, and their -fan-like leaves form a wall, which prevents the earth from rolling down. - -There are only two streets paved in the city; but all have brick -side-walks. The paving stones are brought as ballast by the ships from -the northern states, and sell here very high. Several side-walks are -also laid with broad flag stones. In the carriage way of the streets -there is a prodigious quantity of mud. After a rain it is difficult even -for a carriage to pass; the walkers who wish to go from one side to the -other, have a severe inconvenience before them; either they must make a -long digression, to find some stones that are placed in the abyss, for -the benefit of jumping over, or if they undertake to wade through, run a -risk of sticking fast. - -Sunday is not observed with the puritanic strictness in New Orleans, -that it is in the north. The shops are open, and there is singing and -guitar-playing in the streets. In New York, or Philadelphia, such -proceedings would be regarded as outrageously indecent. On a Sunday we -went for the first time, to the French theatre, in which a play was -performed every Sunday and Thursday. The piece for this night, was the -tragedy of Regulus, and two vaudevilles. The dramatic corps was merely -tolerable, such as those of the small French provincial towns,[II-3] -where they never presume to present tragedies, or comedies of the -highest class. "Regulus" was murdered; Mr. Marchand and Madame Clozel, -whose husband performed the comic parts very well in the vaudevilles, -alone distinguished themselves. The saloon is not very large, but well -ornamented; below is the pit and parquet, a row of boxes each for four -persons, and before them a balcony. The boxes are not divided by walls, -but only separated by a low partition, so that the ladies can exhibit -themselves conveniently. Over the first row of boxes is a second, to -which the free colored people resort, who are not admitted to any other -part of the theatre, and above this row is the gallery, in which slaves -may go, with the permission of their masters. Behind the boxes is a -lobby, where the gentlemen who do not wish to sit in a box, stand, or -walk about, where they can see over the boxes. The theatre was less -attended, than we had supposed it would be; and it was said, that the -great shock felt in the commercial world, on account of the bankruptcy -of three of the most distinguished houses, in consequence of unfortunate -speculations in cotton, and the failures in Liverpool, was the cause of -this desertion. - - [Footnote II-3: [This is the same corps which the Philadelphians - extol so highly, that one might almost suppose them equal to the - artists of the _Theatre Français_, if, unfortunately, one visit to - the theatre, did not completely dispel the illusion!]--TRANS.] - -The garrison consists of two companies of infantry, of the first and -fourth regiments. This has been here since the last insurrection of the -negroes, and has been continued, to overawe them. In case of a serious -alarm, this would prove but of little service! and what security is -there against such an alarm? In Chartres street, where we dwelt, there -were two establishments, which constantly revolted my feelings, to wit: -shops in which negroes were purchased and sold. These unfortunate -beings, of both sexes, stood or sat the whole day, in these shops, or in -front of them, to exhibit themselves, and wait for purchasers. The -abomination is shocking, and the barbarity and indifference, produced by -the custom in white men, is indescribable.[II-4] - - [Footnote II-4: Among the slave traders, a Hollander from - Amsterdam, disgusted me particularly, his name was Jacobs. He had - the most vulgar and sinister countenance imaginable, was - constantly drunk, and treated the wretched negroes in the most - brutal manner; he was, however, severely beaten by these miserable - beings, driven to despair.[II-4a]] - - [Footnote II-4a: The virtuous indignation of the Duke, at - these horrible consequences of slavery, is such as every man, - not hardened by long familiarity with such scenes, must feel; - those to whom they are daily presented regard them with calm - indifference, or even attempt to argue in favour of their - continuance and harmlessness. It is not as generally known, as - it should be, that the _slave trade_ is carried on, almost as - vigorously now, as ever it was, and by citizens of almost - every nation; not in the least excepting Americans. The slave - vessels sail principally from Havanna and St. Thomas, and land - their cargoes on the island of Puerto Rico, and elsewhere, - whither purchasers and agents resort, when such an arrival - occurs. Two schooners, with large cargoes, arrived in Puerto - Rico in February last, and two brigs were daily expected. It - is said in the West Indies, that all ships of war, of powers - owning West India Colonies, _connive_ at the trade, which is - fully supported by facts; as French, Danish, and English - cruisers were in the vicinity, when the above mentioned - cargoes arrived. The idea of cruising off the coast of Africa, - to prevent the trade, is ridiculed by the slave dealers, with - one of whom the writer of this note conversed. If the - American, or any other government _really wished_ to put an - end to this trade, it could be very effectually accomplished, - by sending small armed vessels to intercept the slave traders - near their places of landing cargoes, which are not very - numerous. It is also said, in the West Indies, that the - Havanna traders still contrive to introduce Africans into the - southern part of the United States; of the truth or falsehood - of this, we know nothing. The slave vessels are generally - Baltimore clipper brigs, and schooners, completely armed and - very fast sailers. Two of them sailed on this execrable trade - in February last, from a part visited by the writer. --_Trans._] - -There were subscription balls given in New Orleans, to which the -managers had the politeness to invite us. These balls took place twice a -week, Tuesdays and Fridays, at the French theatre, where the masquerade -had been, which I mentioned before. None but good society were admitted -to these subscription balls; the first that we attended was not crowded, -however, the generality of the ladies present were very pretty, and had -a very genteel French air. The dress was extremely elegant, and after -the latest Paris fashion. The ladies danced, upon the whole, -excellently, and did great honour to their French teachers. Dancing, and -some instruction in music, is almost the whole education of the female -creoles. - -Most of the gentlemen here are far behind the ladies in elegance. They -did not remain long at the ball, but hasted away to the quadroon ball, -so called, where they amused themselves more, and were more at their -ease. This was the reason why there were more ladies than gentlemen -present at the ball, and that many were obliged to form "tapestry." When -a lady is left sitting, she is said to be "bredouille." Two cotillions -and a waltz, are danced in succession, and there is hardly an interval -of two or three minutes between the dances. The music was performed by -negroes and coloured people, and was pretty good. The governor was also -at the ball, and introduced me to several gentlemen, among others, -a Frenchman, General Garrigues de Flaugeac, who, having emigrated here -from St. Domingo, had married, and given the world some very handsome -daughters. Several of the French families here settled, and indeed, the -most respectable, were emigrants from that island, who wait for the -indemnification due to them, but without any great hopes of receiving -it. - -Colonel Wool inspected the two companies of the first and fourth -regiments, under Major Twiggs stationed here; both together made at the -most, eighty men under arms. The inspection took place before the -Cathedral. I admired the good order and great propriety of these -companies, as well as their uniformity of march and dressing, which I -had no opportunity to observe before, in the troops of the United -States. There was indeed many things to be wished for; as for example, -the coats of the men did not fit, and many were too short; the grey -cloth pantaloons were of different shades, and much too short; no -bayonet sheaths, nor gun straps; the belt intended for the bayonet -sheath over that of the cartridge box: the privates had wooden flints in -their guns, and none in their cartridge boxes, also no spare flints, -files, screwdrivers, nor oil flasks. From the false maxim, that the -second rank, if they are shorter men, cannot fire over the front, the -lesser men are ranged in the first, and the taller in the second rank -through the whole army of the United States, and this produces a great -eye-sore. There was some manual exercise, and manoeuvres in battalion -training: all good. The soldiers were mostly young, handsome and strong -men, well fed and healthy looking natives of the western states; there -were some Germans and Irish among them. The Irish, however, since their -conduct is often in nowise commendable, are no longer admitted. Governor -Johnson remained during the review, which lasted above an hour or more; -there were also several members of the legislature now assembling, -present. I formed an acquaintance here with General La Coste, who -formerly had been engaged in the Spanish service, and at present -commanded a division of the Louisiana militia. Colonel Croghan also -attended the review.[II-5] - - [Footnote II-5: Colonel CROGHAN was one of the most distinguished - officers of the American army. In the last war, he defended a - miserable stockade, (Fort Stephenson) on Lake Erie, against a - force eight times greater than his own, which had artillery, and - drove it back. After the peace, he was appointed Post Master of - New Orleans, and during my stay in this city, he had entered again - into the army, and held the post of second Inspector-General.] - -When the review was over, the governor showed me the two extensive -buildings, joining the Cathedral, with arcades, as before-mentioned. One -of them is devoted to the use of the several courts of justice, and the -other is the City Hall. In the first, the United States court was -holding its sessions, and as it was rather cold, the judge had removed -himself to the fire-place, there to have the business transacted before -him. The suit in controversy related to the sale of a negro. The buyer -had purchased him as a slave for life; after the bargain had been -concluded, and payment made, he discovered, by the declaration of his -former master, the seller, that at a certain period he was to be free. -I could not remain long enough in the court, to wait for the decision. - -We passed then to the City Hall. In the lower story, is the guard-house -of the city guard, besides a prison[II-6] for runaways, or negroes -punished by order of their masters, who are here incarcerated, and -employed in all servile labours for the city; they are termed _negres -marrons_. The masters receive a daily recompense of twenty-five cents -for each imprisoned negro. Near the guard-house stands a small piece of -ordnance, from which the signal tattoo is fired. After this shot, no -negro can tread the streets without a pass.[II-7] The upper stories of -this building contains the offices and court halls of the magistrates. -Part of them were ornamented very richly, as these chambers served as -quarters for General La Fayette, who was here in the month of April -last. Before the chambers, the whole length of the building, ran a -gallery with very large windows, which being raised in summer, change -the gallery into an airy balcony: an arrangement which I had remarked to -exist also in the other building, where the courts of justice sat. - - [Footnote II-6: [Commonly known in New Orleans by the name of the - Calaboose, (from Calabozo, the Spanish term for a vaulted - dungeon,) and a great terror to evil-doers in that city; the - efficiency of the police of which can never be enough - admired.]--TRANS.] - - [Footnote II-7: I have already made some remarks with regard to - the apprehension of negroes in Charleston. If a person wishes here - to have a house-negro, male or female, chastised, they are sent - with a note, in which the number of lashes which the bearer is to - receive are specified, with a quarter of a dollar; he or she is - lodged in the slave prison. Here the slave receives the - punishment, and a certificate, which he must carry to his master. - The maximum of lashes is thirty-nine, according to the Mosaic law. - The species of punishment is specified as in Charleston, or "_aux - quatre piquets_." In this last case, the poor wretch is pressed - out flat on his face upon the earth, and his hands and feet bound - to four posts. In this posture he receives his flogging. This - frightful method of chastisement, is principally in use on the - plantations; and cruel discipline is there chiefly practised. - Whoever wishes to punish a house servant severely, either hires or - sells him to work on the plantations.] - -Hence the governor next conducted me to the old Spanish government -house, in which the senators and representatives of the state of -Louisiana were now assembled. The building is ancient and crazy, -otherwise situated in a handsome spot on the levée, surrounded by a -balcony. There is nothing more done for the repair of this building, as -in a few years the legislature will be removed to Donaldsonville. The -reason given for this is, that many members of the legislature are plain -people, who feel embarrassed in New Orleans, and hope to be more at -their ease in Donaldsonville. The office of the governor is in the yard, -in a small house, where the secretary of the Spanish governor formerly -had his office. - -In a magazine belonging to the state, there are still several articles -which belonged to the former navy-yard, and which, hereafter, are to be -sent to Pensacola. Among these, I remarked brass and iron cannon of -various calibres, and from different countries, English, Spanish, and -French. There were some ancient ones among the French, with beautiful -ornaments and inscriptions. On one was, "_ultima ratio regum_;" on -others, the darling "_liberté, egalité_." These pieces were found in the -trifling fortifications that formerly surrounded the city, when the -United States took possession of Louisiana, in 1803. - -During the last of January, it rained uncommonly hard and steady. The -streets became bottomless: holes formed in them, where carriages and -carts were in constant peril of upsetting. At first it was cold; while -the rain continued, there followed such an oppressive heat, that it was -feared an earthquake was about to take place: it thundered and lightened -also very heavily. - -At the masked balls, each paid a dollar for admission. As I visited it -for the second time, I observed, however, many present by free tickets, -and I was told that the company was very much mixed. The unmasked ladies -belonging to good society, sat in the recesses of the windows, which -were higher than the saloon, and furnished with galleries. There were -some masks in character, but none worthy of remark. Two quarrels took -place, which commenced in the ball-room with blows, and terminated in -the vestibule, with pocket-pistols and kicking, without any interruption -from the police. - -On the same evening, what was called a quadroon ball took place. -A quadroon is the child of a mestize mother and a white father, as a -mestize is the child of a mulatto mother and a white father. The -quadroons are almost entirely white: from their skin no one would detect -their origin; nay many of them have as fair a complexion as many of the -haughty creole females. Such of them as frequent these balls are free. -Formerly they were known by their black hair and eyes, but at present -there are completely fair quadroon males and females. Still, however, -the strongest prejudice reigns against them on account of their black -blood, and the white ladies maintain, or affect to maintain, the most -violent aversion towards them. Marriage between the white and coloured -population is forbidden by the law of the state. As the quadroons on -their part regard the negroes and mulattoes with contempt, and will not -mix with them, so nothing remains for them but to be the friends, as it -is termed, of the white men. The female quadroon looks upon such an -engagement as a matrimonial contract, though it goes no farther than a -formal contract by which the "friend" engages to pay the father or -mother of the quadroon a specified sum. The quadroons both assume the -name of their friends, and as I am assured preserve this engagement with -as much fidelity as ladies espoused at the altar. Several of these girls -have inherited property from their fathers or friends, and possess -handsome fortunes. Notwithstanding this, their situation is always very -humiliating. They cannot drive through the streets in a carriage, and -their "friends" are forced to bring them in their own conveyances after -dark to the ball: they dare not sit in the presence of white ladies, and -cannot enter their apartments without especial permission. The whites -have the privilege to procure these unfortunate creatures a whipping -like that inflicted on slaves, upon an accusation, proved by two -witnesses. Several of these females have enjoyed the benefits of as -careful an education as most of the whites; they conduct themselves -ordinarily with more propriety and decorum, and confer more happiness on -their "friends," than many of the white ladies to their married lords. -Still, the white ladies constantly speak with the greatest contempt, and -even with animosity, of these unhappy and oppressed beings. The -strongest language of high nobility in the monarchies of the old world, -cannot be more haughty, overweening or contemptuous towards their fellow -creatures, than the expressions of the creole females with regard to the -quadroons, in one of the much vaunted states of the free Union. In fact, -such comparison strikes the mind of a thinking being very singularly! -Many wealthy fathers, on account of the existing prejudices send -daughters of this description to France, where these girls with a good -education and property, find no difficulty in forming a legitimate -establishment. At the quadroon ball, only coloured ladies are admitted, -the men of that caste, be it understood, are shut out by the white -gentlemen. To take away all semblance of vulgarity, the price of -admission is fixed at two dollars, so that only persons of the better -class can appear there. - -As a stranger in my situation should see every thing, to acquire a -knowledge of the habits, customs, opinions and prejudices of the people -he is among, therefore I accepted the offer of some gentlemen who -proposed to carry me to this quadroon ball. And I must avow I found it -much more decent than the masked ball. The coloured ladies were under -the eyes of their mothers, they were well and gracefully dressed, and -conducted themselves with much propriety and modesty. Cotillions and -waltzes were danced, and several of the ladies performed elegantly. -I did not remain long there that I might not utterly destroy my standing -in New Orleans, but returned to the masked ball and took great care not -to disclose to the white ladies where I had been. I could not however -refrain from making comparisons, which in no wise redounded to the -advantage of the white assembly. As soon as I entered I found a state of -formality.[II-8] - - [Footnote II-8: If it be known that a stranger, who has - pretensions to mix with good society, frequents such balls as - these, he may rely upon a cold reception from the white ladies.] - -At the end of January, a contagious disorder prevailed, called the -varioloid. It was said to be a species of small-pox, and was described -as malignant in the highest degree. Even persons who had undergone -vaccination, and those who had passed through the natural small-pox, -were attacked by this disorder. The garrison lost six men, of whom two -were severely marked. The garrison were placed in the barracks to -preserve them from this malady. It was thought that it was imported by -some negro slaves from the north. Many owners of slaves in the states of -Maryland and Virginia have real--(pardon the loathsome expression, -I know not how otherwise to designate the beastly idea,) stud nurseries -for slaves, whence the planters of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the other -southern states draw their supplies, which increase every day in price. -Such a disease as the varioloid is a fit present, in return for slaves -thus obtained![II-9] - - [Footnote II-9: [A plain, unvarnished history of the _internal - slave trade_ carried on in this country, would shock and disgust - the reader to a degree that would almost render him ashamed to - acknowledge himself a member of the same community. In unmanly and - degrading barbarity, wanton cruelty, and horrible indifference to - every human emotion, facts could be produced worthy of association - with whatever is recorded of the slave trade in any other form. - One of these internal slave traders has built, in a neighbouring - city, a range of _private prisons_, fronting the main road to - Washington, in which he collects his _cattle_ previous to sending - off a caravan to the south. The voice of lamentation is seldom - stilled within these accursed walls.]--TRANS.] - -We paid the late governor of the state, Mr. Robinson, a visit. It gave -me much pleasure to cultivate his acquaintance. Mr. Robinson is regarded -with universal respect, and I met in him a highly interesting and well -informed man, who converses with wit and spirit. At a dinner, given by -the acting governor, I became acquainted with the former governor and -militia general Villaret, as well as with Dr. Herman, from Cassel, who -was employed in the navy of the United States as surgeon-general. From -this dinner we went to the child's ball, which was given in the -customary ball room of the French theatre, for the benefit of the -dancing master. Most of the children were quite charming, and danced -very prettily: only the little girls from ten to eleven years of age, -were dressed and tricked off like full grown ladies. About eight o'clock -the little children left off dancing and were mostly sent home, and in -their place the larger girls resumed the dance. The costume of the -ladies was very elegant. To my discomfiture, however, a pair of -tobacco-chewing gentlemen engaged me in conversation, from which I -received such a sensation of disgust, that I was nearly in the situation -of one sea-sick. - -On the 1st of February, to my great sorrow, the brave Colonel Wool, -who had become exceedingly dear and valuable to me, took leave. -I accompanied him to his steam-boat, which departed at eleven o'clock, -and gazed after him for a long time. - -I paid a visit to the bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, and was very -politely received. He is a Jesuit, a native of St. Domingo, and appears -to be about sixty years old. He delivers himself very well, and -conversed with me concerning the disturbances in the diocese of Ghent, -in the time of the Prince Broglio, in which he, as friend and counsellor -of that prince, whom he accompanied in his progress through his diocese, -took an active part. In his chamber, I saw a very fine portrait of Pope -Pius VII. a copy of one painted by Camuccini, and given by the pope to -the deceased duke of Saxe-Gotha. The bishop inhabited a quondam nunnery, -the greater part of which he had assigned for, and established as a -school for boys. The bishop returned my visit on the next day. - -At a dinner, which Mr. Grymes gave with the greatest display of -magnificence, after the second course, large folding doors opened and we -beheld another dining room, in which stood a table with the dessert. We -withdrew from the first table, and seated ourselves at the second, in -the same order in which we had partaken of the first. As the variety of -wines began to set the tongues of the guests at liberty, the ladies -rose, retired to another apartment, and resorted to music for amusement. -Some of the gentlemen remained with the bottle, while others, among whom -I was one, followed the ladies, and regaled ourselves with harmony. We -had waltzing until ten o'clock, when we went to the masquerade in the -theatre of St. Phillip's street, a small building, in which, at other -times, Spanish dramas were exhibited. The female company consisted of -quadroons, who, however, were masked. Several of them addressed me, and -coquetted with me some time, in the most subtle and amusing manner. - -A young lawyer from Paris, of the name of Souliez, paid me a visit. -He was involved in unpleasant circumstances in his native country, on -account of some liberal publications which he had made against the -Jesuits in the newspapers. On this account, he, full of liberal ideas, -had left his home, and gone to Hayti, with recommendatory letters from -bishop Gregoire to President Boyer. There, however, he found the state -of things widely different from what he had fancied them at home. The -consequence was, he had come to the United States, and he now candidly -confessed that he was completely cured of his fine dreams of liberty. - -Dr. Herman gave a dinner, at which were more than twenty guests. Among -them were the governor, Colonel Croghan, and several of the public -characters here. Mr. Bowdoin, who was slowly recovering from his gout, -and Count Vidua, were also there. Except our hostess there was no lady -present. Mrs. Herman, a very beautiful young woman, was very unwell, and -obliged to leave the table soon. The dinner was very splendid. - -We crossed the Mississippi in a boat, like a small chest, such a boat is -styled a "ferry-boat." This was the only stated means of communication -supported between the city and the right bank. Formerly there was a -steam ferry-boat, and afterwards a horse-boat, but neither the one nor -the other could be supported by the business. The stream is nearly -three-fourths of a mile broad. Arrived on the right bank, we found a -little inconsiderable place called Macdonaldville, that did not appear -very thriving. Along the bank runs a levée, to protect the land from -inundation. Several vessels are laid up here. The country is exceedingly -level, and is composed of swampy meadows, and in the back ground, of -forest, partly of live oaks, which is much concealed, however, by long -ugly moss. Farther inward is a sugar plantation belonging to Baron -Marigny. The river makes a remarkable bend opposite New Orleans, and the -city, with its white spires, and crowds of vessels lying in the stream, -looks uncommonly well from the right bank. - -General Villaret invited us to dinner at his country-house, which is -eight miles distant from New Orleans, and had the politeness to bring us -in his carriage. At half past eleven o'clock, I went out with Count -Vidua, and Mr. Huygens. The habitation, as the mansion-houses lying in a -sugar plantation are termed, is upon the left bank of the Mississippi, -about a short mile from the river. In December, 1814, it served the -English army for head quarters. The road to it led along the levée, past -country houses, which succeeded each other rapidly for five miles. -Several display the comfort and good taste of their owners. The -mansion-house, commonly, is situated about one hundred paces from the -entrance, and an avenue of laurel trees, which are cut in a pyramidical -form, and pride of China trees, leads to the door. The most of these -houses are two stories high, and are surrounded with piazzas and covered -galleries. Back of the elegant mansion-house stand the negro cabins, -like a camp, and behind the sugar-cane fields, which extend to the -marshy cypress woods about a mile back, called the cypress swamp. Among -these country-houses is a nunnery of Ursulines, the inhabitants of which -are employed in the education of female youth. - -Five miles from the city we reached the former plantation of M'Carthy, -now belonging to Mr. Montgomery, in which General Jackson had his head -quarters. About one hundred paces farther, commences the right of the -line, to the defence of which this general owes his great renown. I left -the carriage here, and went along the remainder of the line, at most a -mile in length, with the right wing on the river, and the left resting -on the cypress swamp. - -The English landed in Lake Borgne, which is about three miles distant -from General Villaret's dwelling. On the 23d of December, a company of -soldiers attacked this house, and took two of the general's sons -prisoners. The third of his sons escaped, and brought to General -Jackson, whose head quarters were at that time in the city, the -intelligence of the landing and progress of the British. Immediately the -alarm guns were fired, and the general marched with the few troops and -militia under his command, not two thousand in number, against the -habitation of Villaret. The English had established themselves here, -with the intent to attack the city directly, which was without the least -protection. The general advanced along the line of the woods, and nearly -surprised the English. He would probably have captured them, if he had -had time to despatch a few riflemen through the generally passable -cypress swamp to the right wing: and had not the night come on, and a -sudden fog also prevented it. He judged it more prudent to fall back, -and stationed his troops at the narrowest point between the river and -the cypress swamp, while he took up his head quarters in the habitation -of M'Carthy. - -There was a small ditch in front of his line, and on the next day some -young men of the militia commenced, on their own motion, to throw up a -little breast-work, with the spades and shovels they found in the -habitation. This suggested to the general the idea of forming a line -here. This line was, however, the very feeblest an engineer could have -devised, that is, a strait one. There was not sufficient earth to make -the breast work of the requisite height and strength, since, if the -ground here was dug two feet, water flowed out. To remedy this evil in -some measure, a number of cotton bales were brought from the warehouses -of the city, and the breast-work was strengthened by them. Behind these -bales artillery was placed, mostly ship's cannon, and they endeavoured, -by a redoubt erected on the right wing at the levée, to render it more -susceptible of defence; especially as no time was to be lost, and the -offensive operations of the British were daily perceptible; still the -defensive preparations which General Jackson could effect were very -imperfect. The English force strengthened itself constantly, they threw -up batteries, widened the canal leading from Villaret's to Lake Borgne, -so as to admit their boats into the Mississippi, and covered this canal -by several detached entrenchments. - -A cannonade was maintained by their batteries for several days on the -American line, but they could not reach it, and had several of their own -pieces dismounted by the well-directed fire of the American artillery. -Finally, on the 8th of January, after General Jackson had time to -procure reinforcements, of which the best were the volunteer riflemen of -Tennessee, who were distributed along the line, well covered by the -cotton bales, and each of which had one or two men behind him, to load -the rifles, the English commenced storming the line, under Sir Edward -Packenham's personal direction. The soil in front of the line consisted -of perfectly level cane fields, which had been cut down, not a single -tree or bush was to be found. The unfortunate Englishmen, whose force in -the field was reckoned at from eight to ten thousand men, were obliged -to advance without any shelter, and remain a long time, first under the -fire of the well-directed cannon, afterwards under the fire of the -rifles and small arms of the Americans, without being able to effect any -thing in return against them. The first attack was made upon the left -wing of the line. The British did not reach the ditch, but began soon to -give way. Sir Edward attempted to lead them on again; a cannon-shot, -however, killed his horse and wounded him in both legs. The soldiers -carried him off, but he unluckily received some rifle-shots, that put an -end to his life, having five balls in his body. The Major-generals Gibbs -and Keane were struck at the same time, the first killed and the latter -mortally wounded. By this the troops, who had continually supported a -most murderous fire, were at length obliged completely to give way. -Major-general Lambert, who commanded the reserve, and upon whom also at -this period the whole command of the army devolved, made a last attempt -to force the line. He led his troops in a run upon the batture, between -the levée and the river, (which at that time was very low,) against the -right wing of the line, where the small redoubt was placed, stormed, and -took possession of it, but was forced, by the well-supported fire of the -riflemen behind the line, to evacuate it again. The English colonel of -engineers, Rennee, met with a glorious death, upon the breast-work, in -this affair. After this unsuccessful attempt, the English retreated to -their entrenchments at Villaret's, and in a few days re-embarked. - -During the failure of this principal attack, the English had conveyed -eight hundred men to the right shore of the river, who gained some -advantages there against insignificant entrenchments. These advantages, -when they heard of the bad results of the main attack, they were obliged -to abandon, and to return to the left bank. Had the storm of the right -wing, and the feigned assault on the left been successful, in all -probability General Jackson would have been obliged to evacuate not only -his lines, but the city itself. Providence surely took the city under -its protection; for the English were promised the plunder of New Orleans -in case of success, as was asserted in that city: General Jackson -moreover had given orders, in case of his retreat, not only to blow up -the powder magazine of the city on the right bank, but to destroy the -public buildings, and set the city on fire at the four corners. The -general himself so fully recognized the hand of Providence in the event, -that on the day after his victory, he expressed himself to Bishop -Dubourg thus: that he knew the city owed its preservation to a merciful -Providence alone, and that his first step should be on his return to the -city, to thank God in his temple for the victory so wonderfully -obtained. The bishop immediately gave directions for a thanksgiving, and -it was unanimously celebrated with a sincere feeling of gratitude. - -From the battle ground to General Villaret's dwelling, we had three -miles still to go over. For some days back, we had dry weather, and the -road, which after a hard rain, must be bottomless, was on that account, -hard and good. The Mississippi has the peculiarity possessed by several -streams in Holland, of changing its bed. The house of General Villaret, -was once much nearer the river; for some years, however, it has inclined -so much to the right, that it constantly wears away the soil there, -while it forms new deposits to the left. The general's possessions are -therefrom increased, and that with very good soil. The visit of the -English nearly ruined the general. Their landing on this side was so -entirely unexpected, that he, being employed in collecting the militia -in the districts above the city, had not been able to remove the least -of his property. The English took all the cattle away, as well as above -sixty negroes. There has not been any intelligence of what was the fate -of these negroes, probably they were sold in the West Indies. All the -fences, bridges, and negro cabins were destroyed. The mansion-house was -only spared, as it was occupied as head-quarters. The youngest son of -the general, between thirteen and fourteen years old, was obliged to -remain in the house the whole time it was retained, and was very well -treated by the English generals and officers. As the English were on the -point of re-embarking, General Lambert gave young Villaret four hundred -dollars in silver to carry to his father, as indemnification for the -cattle carried off. The young man went to the city, and delivered the -money to his father. General Villaret requested General Jackson to send -a flag of truce on board the English fleet, to carry the money back to -General Lambert, with a letter from General Villaret. This was done, but -the general never received an answer. - -The removal of the negroes was a severe stroke for the General, from -which, as he told me himself, it cost him much trouble gradually to -recover. The canal or bayou, which ran from his plantation to Lake -Borgne, was shut up by order of General Jackson after the retreat of the -English, and there were not labourers sufficient left with General -Villaret to reinstate it; it was of great importance to him for the -conveyance of wood and other necessaries. - -We found at the general's, his sons, his son-in-law, Mr. Lavoisne, and -several gentlemen from the city, among them Governor Johnson. We took -some walks in the adjacent grounds. The house was not very large, and -was not very much ornamented, for reasons already mentioned. Behind it -was a brick sugar-boiling house, and another one for the sugar mill. -Near that was a large yard, with stables and neat negro cabins for the -house-servants. The huts of the field slaves were removed farther off. -The whole is surrounded by cane fields, of which some were then brought -in, and others all cut down. A field of this description must rest -fallow for five years, and be manured, before being again set out in -plants. For manure, a large species of bean is sown, which is left to -rot in the field, and answers the purpose very well. The cane is -commonly cut in December, and brought to the mill. These mills consists -of three iron cylinders, which stand upright, the centre one of which is -put in motion by a horse-mill underneath, so as to turn the other by -crown-wheels. The cane is shoved in between these, and must pass twice -through to be thoroughly squeezed out. The fresh juice thus pressed out, -runs through a groove into a reservoir. From this it is drawn off into -the kettles, in which it is boiled, to expel the watery part by -evaporation. There are three of these kettles close together, so as to -pour the juice when it boils from one to the other, and thus facilitate -the evaporation of the water. The boiling in these kettles lasts one -hour; one set gives half a hogshead of brown sugar. In several of the -plantations there is a steam-engine employed in place of the -horse-power: the general's misfortunes have not yet permitted him to -incur this expense. - -After dinner we walked in the yard, where we remarked several Guinea -fowls, which are common here, a pair of Mexican pheasants, and a tame -fawn. Before the house stood a number of lofty nut-trees, called peccan -trees. At the foot of one, Sir Edward Packenham's bowels are interred; -his body was embalmed and sent to England. In the fields there are -numbers of English buried, and a place was shown to me where forty -officers alone were laid. We took leave of our friendly host at sundown, -and returned to the city. - -On Shrove Tuesday, all the ball-rooms in the city were opened. I went to -the great masked ball in the French theatre. The price of admission was -raised to two dollars for a gentleman, and one dollar for a lady. There -was dancing, not only in the ball-room, but also in the theatre itself, -and on this occasion, the parterre was raised to a level with the stage. -The illumination of the house was very good, and presented a handsome -view. Many of the ladies were in masks, and intrigued as well as they -were able. I could not restrain my curiosity, and visited the quadroon -ball in the theatre of St. Philippe. It however was too late when I -arrived there, many of the ladies had left the ball, and the gentlemen, -a motly society, were for the most part drunk. This being the case, -I returned after a quarter of an hour to the principal ball. But here -too, some gentlemen had dipped too deep in the glass, and several -quarrels with fists and canes took place. The police is not strict -enough here to prevent gentlemen from bringing canes with them to balls. -The balls continue through lent, when they are but little frequented. - -On the 12th of February the intelligence of the death of the Emperor -Alexander was spread abroad, which had been received by the ship Mogul, -yesterday arrived from Liverpool, and by London gazettes of the 24th of -December. I could not believe this to be a fact, and betook myself to -the office of one of the public papers. I was here given the English -gazette to read, and I found, to my no small terror, the detailed -account of this sorrowful event. Consternation entered into my mind, on -reflecting what effect this must have produced in Weimar, and increased -my troubled state of feeling! - -The volunteer battalion of artillery of this place is a handsome corps, -uniformed as the artillery of the old French guard. It is above one -hundred men strong, and presents a very military front. This corps -manoeuvred about half an hour in the square before the cathedral, and -then marched to the City Hall, to receive a standard. Upon the right -wing of the battalion, a detachment of flying artillery was placed. The -corps had done essential service on the 8th of January, 1815, in the -defence of the line, and stands here in high respect. - -About four miles below the city Mr. Grymes has a country-seat, or -habitation. The house is entirely new, and situated on a piece of ground -formerly employed as a sugar-cane field. The new plantings made in the -garden, consisted of young orange-trees and magnolias. Behind the house -is an artificial hill, with a temple upon it, and within the hill -itself, a grotto, arranged artificially with shells. At the entrance -stands a banana tree, and this, with several creeping plants, will -conceal it very well in summer. I observed in the garden several -singular heaps of earth, which are hollow within, and stand over a hole -in the ground. They are said to be formed by a species of land-crab, for -their residence. If a stone be thrown into the hole, you hear that it -immediately falls into water. Generally, in this country, you cannot dig -more than a foot deep in the earth, without meeting water. - -It was pure curiosity that carried me a third time to the masquerade, in -St. Philippe's theatre. It was, however, no more agreeable than the one -eight days previous. There were but few masks; and among the -tobacco-chewing gentry, several Spanish visages slipped about, who -carried sword-canes, and seemed to have no good design in carrying them. -Some of these visiters were intoxicated, and there appeared a willing -disposition for disturbance. The whole aspect was that of a den of -ruffians. I did not remain here a half hour, and learned next day that I -was judicious in going home early, as later, battles with canes and -dirks had taken place. Twenty persons were more or less dangerously -wounded! - -It rained very frequently during the first half of the month of -February; in the middle it was warm, and for a time, about the 20th, an -oppressive heat prevailed, which made me quite lethargic, and operated -equally unpleasantly on every one. Indeed a real sirocco blew at this -time. It surprised me very much, that with such extraordinary weather, -not at all uncommon here, that there should be so many handsome, -healthy, and robust children. This climate, so unhealthy, and almost -mortal to strangers, seems to produce no injurious effect upon the -children born here. - -In the vacant space, where the walls of New Orleans formerly stood, are -at present the _Esplanade rue des Remparts_, and _rue du canal_. The -city proper forms a parallelogram, and was once surrounded by a palisade -and a ditch. At each of the four corners stood a redoubt. The last of -these redoubts, which stood at the entrance of the Fauxbourg Marigny, -was demolished only since the last war. It would be important for the -security of the present inhabitants, to have a fortress on the bank of -the river, so that in case of an insurrection of the negroes, not only -the trifling garrison, but the white women and children should possess a -place of refuge, which is now totally wanting. The ditch is filled up, -and planted with trees; there are no buildings newly erected here, and -these open spaces are the worst parts of the city. - -On the night of the 22d of February, the alarm bell was sounded: a fire -had broken out in the warehouse of a merchant. There was time to save -every thing, even the wooden building was not consumed, but in the -course of two hours the fire was extinguished. - -On the same day, was celebrated the birth of the great Washington. All -the vessels lying in the river were adorned with flags, and fired -salutes. The volunteer legion of Louisiana was called out in full -uniform, to fire volleys in honour of the day. The artillery before -mentioned, which gave thirteen discharges from two pieces, distinguished -themselves again by their excellent discipline. The infantry was very -weak, not exceeding fifty men, with a most monstrous standard. A company -of riflemen of thirty men, who had done good service on the 8th of -January, 1815, appeared very singular in their costume: it consisted of -a sky-blue frock and pantaloons, with white fringe and borders, and fur -hoods. This legion was established in the last war, and considering -itself independent of the militia, it has clothed itself after the -French taste, and is officered by Frenchmen. - -In the evening there was a subscription ball, in the ball-room of the -French theatre. This ball was given also, on account of the festival -celebrated this day. In former years, each person had subscribed ten -dollars for this ball; the saloon had been decorated with Washington's -portrait, and a number of standards, and a splendid supper spread for -the ladies. This year the subscription had been reduced to three dollars -for a ticket, and hardly filled up at that price. It was attempted to be -accounted for, by the critical juncture of commercial affairs, in which -the city was placed; the true cause, however, might be traced to the -incomprehensible want of attachment among the creoles to the United -States. Although the city of New Orleans, and the whole state of -Louisiana, has benefited extremely by its union with the United States, -and daily increases; yet the creoles appear rather to wish their country -should be a French colony, than annexed to the Union. From their -conversations, one would conclude that they do not regard the Americans -as their countrymen. This aversion certainly will lessen, as the better -part of the young people acquire their scientific education in the -northern states; at this moment, however, it is very powerful. Under -this state of things, Mr. Davis, the manager of the French theatre, the -balls, and several gaming houses, announced a masked ball, at one dollar -admission, for Washington's birth-night. The young ladies, however, to -whom a subscription ball was in anticipation, and on account of it had -prepared a fresh set of ornaments, to assist their toilet, felt -themselves exceedingly disappointed by this arrangement; as there would -be a very mixed company at the masked ball, and they would not be able -to distinguish themselves by individual ornament. For this reason, their -parents and relations had exerted themselves, and happily brought it to -pass, that instead of a ticket ball, there should be one by -subscription. In fact, this ball was very splendid, so far as the dress -of the ladies contributed thereto. Moreover, no battles took place. - -In the neighbourhood of the city, some Choctaw Indians hunted, and lived -a wandering life. They frequently resorted to the city to sell the -produce of their hunting, also canes, palmetto baskets, and many other -articles. The money for these was afterwards consumed in liquor. They -are of very dark colour, have coats made of woollen blankets; wear -mocassins, and undressed leather leggings, necklaces of checkered glass -beads, with a large shell in the form of a collar, silver rings in the -nose and ears, and smooth copper rings on the wrists. The children until -four years old are quite naked; only wearing mocassins, leggings, and -the rings round the wrists. - -In a tavern on the Levée, there was a collection of fossil bones, which -had been dug out of a swamp, not far from the mouth of the Mississippi, -the preceding year, and must have belonged to a colossal amphibious -animal. The single piece of the spine remaining appeared to be that of a -whale; a single rib however, also found, was too much curved ever to -have been the rib of a whale. The largest piece of those that were dug -up, appeared to be a jaw bone. Unfortunately I understand too little of -these things, to be able to venture upon a description of these -remarkable remains of an apparently antideluvian animal; certainly it -would be worth the trouble of having them examined and described by a -scientific person. Two of the bones appeared to have belonged to the -legs, and from these alone, some would determine, that the animal was a -crocodile. I was informed at this time--I say, with Herodotus, that I -only tell now what others have told me, and perhaps some one may either -believe it, or know it,--I was told that a perfect skeleton of a mammoth -was collected many years ago in one of the meadows, on the banks of the -Mississippi, not far from its mouth, and was conveyed to London, and -that very old inhabitants had heard as a tradition from their ancestors, -that this mammoth had been thrown ashore by the sea, part rotted, and in -part was devoured by the buzzards. - -There is no particular market day in New Orleans, as in other places, -but every morning market is open for all kinds of vegetables, fruits, -game, &c. This market is very well provided on Sunday, as the slaves -have permission to offer for sale on this day all they desire to dispose -of. - -I visited Captain Harney of the first regiment of infantry, who in the -year 1825, as lieutenant to General Atkinson, had accompanied the -expedition to Yellow Stone river, and had brought back with him several -of the curiosities of those western regions, so little known. These -curiosities consisted of a variety of skins of bears, for example, of -the grizzled bear, also skins of buffalo, foxes, of a white wolf, (which -is a great rarity,) of a porcupine, whose quills are much shorter than -those of the African species, and of wild cats. Besides these, Mr. -Harney has procured pieces of Indian habiliments, coats and leggings -made of deer skin. The warriors among these Indians wear the mark of -their dignity--the scalps--on the leggings, those of the inferior grade -on one leg, those higher, on both. The coats are made with a checkered -sewing, ornamented partly with glass beads, and partly with split -porcupine quills. The Indian women, who are designated by the universal -name of squaw, work these ornaments very ingeniously. Mr. Harney showed -me also a quiver, made of cougar's skin with different sorts of arrows, -a bow of elk's horn, strung with tendons drawn from the elk; several -tobacco pipes, with heads of serpentine stone, of which I had seen some -on Lake Ontario already, hunting pouches, a head dress of eagle's -feathers for the great chief of the Crow nation, a set of the claws of -the grizzled bear, which also were worn for ornament, and a tomahawk of -flint with a variety of bunches of human hair: for every time a warrior -has killed his enemy with his tomahawk, he fastens a bunch of his hair, -with a piece of the scalp on his weapon. He farther showed me a pipe -made of a sheep's rib, adorned with glass beads, upon which the Indians -blow all the time they are engaged in a fight, so as not to lose -themselves in the woods; a spoon made of the horn of a wild mountain -ram; various minerals, and among them petrified wood, which is found in -great quantities in that western region; serpentine, and other -curiosities. The coats of the squaws are trimmed with long thin strips -of leather, on one of these a bunch of yellow moss and grass was tied, -which the Indians regard as a sort of amulet or talisman. - -On the 28th of February, in the forenoon, I went with Mr. Huygens to pay -General Villaret a visit at his country-house. A pretty strong west wind -moderated the great heat outside of the city; within it, the thermometer -of Fahrenheit had stood at eighty-one degrees in the shade. Most of the -fruit trees were in blossom. Every where we saw fresh green and bloom; -all was fresh and lively. In a sugar-cane field, there were oats a foot -and a half high, cut as green fodder. The general and his son were -occupied in managing the labours of the field. We went with them to walk -in the garden. The soil is very fruitful, that, however, is the most so, -which is reclaimed from the swamp of the Mississippi, or the Bayou. In -this soil, nevertheless the germ of a real land plague, the coco, as it -is called, shows itself, the same which was made use of on the continent -of Europe, as a substitute for coffee, during the existence of the -vexatious continental system. This knotty growth is principally found in -the mud; and one lump or knot of it multiplies itself so extremely -quick, that it kills all the plants growing near it, and covers the -whole field, in which it has taken root. It is very difficult to -extirpate, since the smallest knot, that remains in the earth, serves -for the root of a new plant, and several hundred new knots. The -legislature of Louisiana, has offered a considerable reward to whoever -shall succeed in the discovery of an efficient remedy against this pest -of the soil. No one has yet obtained the desired object. - -The general explained to me, the manner in which the sugar-cane fields -were managed. Parallel furrows are made through them at intervals of -three feet. In these furrows, the cane is laid lengthwise, and covered -with earth. Some planters lay two cane joints together, others content -themselves with but one. The end of the successive piece of cane, is so -placed, that it lies about six inches above the end of the first. From -each joint of the cane, there shoot up new sprouts, and form new stalks. -In St. Domingo, there is another method of arranging the cane field. The -field is digged in square holes, placed checkerwise at the distance of -three feet apart, in which four pieces of cane are laid in the square, -and then covered up. This method is judged the best. - -The tragedy of Marie Stuart by Le Brun from Schiller, and a vaudeville, -la Demoiselle et la Dame, were produced at the theatre, to which I went. -The first piece was announced at the request of several American -families, of course there were numbers of ladies of that nation in the -boxes. The tragedy of Le Brun is changed very little from that by -Schiller; it is only curtailed, and two parts, those of Shrewsbury and -Mellvil, are thrown into one. Many scenes in it, particularly the -meeting of the two queens, is translated almost word for word. Madam -Clozel undertook the part of Marie Stuart, and supported it from -beginning to end in a masterly style; but she was not properly -supported. Nevertheless, the piece met with great approbation. -Unluckily, however, the machinery was not in order. At the close of the -piece, when Leicester falls in the greatest distraction into the arms of -an officer of the guard, the curtain could not be lowered, and several -minutes elapsed, before poor Leicester could leave his painful attitude. -On this account the audience made known their displeasure by hissing, -which marred very much the effect produced by the piece. - -A representation of Hamlet, in the French theatre was uncommonly well -attended. The Colombian Commodore Jolly, who had brought a brig of his -nation into New Orleans, appeared in uniform, and drew the attention of -the public upon himself, partly by his dress, and partly by his huge -dress hat, with a white feather. The next morning I made acquaintance -with the commodore, and with his two officers, of whom one is a -Colombian, and the other an Englishman by birth. The commodore had also -taken up his quarters with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman, fifty-six -years of age, of which he has passed forty in the West Indies. I carried -him and the two officers to visit Governor Johnson, and also Bishop -Dubourg. The latter appeared very much flattered by this visit. On going -away, the Englishman kissed the Bishop's hand. He, the bishop, expressed -his surprise at receiving this testimony of respect from a protestant; -to which the officer replied, that this reverence was paid to the -episcopal ring. Mr. Dubourg, indeed, wore a costly amethyst on his -finger, as a representation of the fisher's ring. - -For some days back the weather had become oppressively warm, like the -heat of summer. Several persons who were not accustomed to this degree -of heat, found themselves unwell; it, however, agreed with me. After a -while considerable showers of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning -took place. The consequence of this was, in one way, that the mud became -excessively deep in the streets, but on the other hand, the river began -to rise, which occasioned great joy in the city. Numbers of steam-boats, -and flat-boats were looked for, with provisions from the western states, -as they began to grow scarce and dear. - -An acquaintance very dear to me, and of which I shall always preserve a -grateful remembrance, was that which I made with Baron Marigny, a creole -by birth, and one of the most distinguished inhabitants of the state. -One of the suburbs of New Orleans was laid out by his father, and bears -his name; at the entrance of it, he lives in a mansion-house, erected -with taste and splendour. Never shall I forget the happy days, which I -passed in the circle of his amiable family. During the troubles of the -French revolution, the then duke of Orleans, found a refuge and active -assistance with M. Marigny. After some time, this gentleman made a -voyage to France, and was well received by the duke. I saw at his house, -a coffee-set of French china, which he had received from him as a -present. The cups contained the well executed portraits of the duke, the -dutchess, and their nine children, and upon the larger pieces were views -of the palais royal, and of the castle and park in Neuilly. The Baron -Marigny, also had in his possession a very fine portrait of the duke, -painted by Augustin, in Paris; likewise an engraving, representing him, -as he supported himself during his exile in Switzerland, by giving -lessons in the mathematics. - -On the 11th of March, in a small company of ladies and gentlemen, I saw -a cosmorama, which was set up here. It is known generally, to be a sort -of prospect, given by being in a dark room, and beholding various -objects, through glasses of different magnifying powers. This cosmorama -contained ten views of different places, which are changed every week. -Some views of East Indian antiquities, and remarkable buildings, were -well displayed, as also, a representation of a hall in the former -prisons of the Inquisition at Goa, not so good; and a couple of views in -Japan and Macao, in China. The examination of all the objects, detained -us until evening. We then accompanied the ladies home, they lived in a -country-house, a mile below the Fauxbourg Marigny, on the Levée. It was -eight o'clock as we descended the Levée; the evening was clear, with -star-light; the bustle in the harbour had ceased; we only remarked on -board of some ships the sailors collected on the deck, under an -illuminated awning, where the captain held evening divine service. -Precisely at eight o'clock, the retreat-gun fired at the City Hall, -which is the signal for the negroes to return home, immediately after, -the two Colombian brigs fired, the drums and bugles sounded the retreat, -while the barracks of the infantry did the same. All this, added to the -lighted ships, and the solitary gleams from the opposite side of the -river, made an impression upon me, which I cannot venture to describe. -The wretched miry way, in which we nearly stuck fast, was almost -forgotten. One of the gentlemen accompanying us, had the politeness to -send me home in his chaise. This was a pleasant attention to me, for -there are drunken sailors, and fellows of the lower class, (which are -called here, as in Mexico, Guichinangos,) in great numbers here, and as -these creatures have a strong propensity to street-robbing and stabbing, -it is not very prudent to be alone on a dark evening, upon this deserted -road. - -In an excursion to the country-house of Mr. David Urquhart, I observed -the great injury done by the coco, before alluded to, in his garden; it -covered both the walks and beds, from which daily industry will not root -it out. In the vegetable garden, I found most kinds of those used in -Europe, the peas were as large on the 13th of March, as they are in -Flanders on the beginning of June; we ate of green peas full three weeks -ago. The melons are first deposited in beds of manure, to force them for -earlier use, and when they begin to sprout, are planted afresh in the -field. The soil is so rich, that it does not require manure. I noticed -several fruit trees of various kinds, but was informed, that the fruit -produced by them, on account of the intense heat of summer, would not be -of good quality. - -The brig Arcturus arrived on the 14th of March from Boston, with a cargo -of ice. This article is very conducive to comfort in a warm climate, but -it is exceedingly difficult to preserve it. Where there is water every -where two feet below the surface of the earth, of course, ice-vaults are -impracticable. The cargo which now arrived, was thrown into a large -brick building, and it was asserted that it would keep there till -winter. I examined the construction of this building. A coffer, made of -strong thick planks, and some forty feet in height, is provided with a -small opening under the roof. Through this opening the ice is thrown in, -and again taken out for use. About the coffer there is carried a brick -wall, and the vacant space between the wall and the planks of the -coffer, which is about two feet, is filled up with a mixture of shavings -and saw-dust, which resists the influence of the exterior warm -atmosphere. - -A great quantity of drift timber was floating on the river, even huge -trees. Negroes were busied in small canoes in collecting it, as it -serves the residents on the Levée for fire-wood. The largest part of it, -however, is driven into the Gulf of Mexico, strikes the gulf stream, is -again carried into the Atlantic ocean, and driven upon the shores of -Iceland and Greenland, where it serves to warm the miserable inhabitants -of those inhospitable countries. - -On the 17th of March, I accompanied Commodore Jolly to the criminal -court, before which he was cited. The cause thereof was as follows:--The -year previous, a Colombian corvette had arrived at New Orleans, from -which several sailors deserted. One of these sailors, an Indian, native -of Maracaybo, had hired himself as a servant at a Spanish grog-shop, and -came on board the Pichincha, Commodore Jolly's brig, to visit his old -comrades, and to induce several to desert. He was recognised as a -deserter, and as such arrested. The Spaniard, with whom the sailor -Ramirez had served, laid his complaint before the criminal court, and -the commodore was cited to appear. The Spaniard had employed two -lawyers, a Frenchman, named Canonge, and an old Spaniard, Rodriguez, who -defended the cause of the sailor, and laboured to prove the commodore's -proceedings to be illegal. The pleading of the Frenchman was full of -common place and far-fetched haranguing. Mr. Rodriguez explained his -arguments more logically, though by his Spanish accent he excited great -merriment among the audience. The commodore had no counsel, wherefore a -Mr. Morel was assigned to him as such, who, as he had no time for -preparation, requested the postponement of the cause to the following -day. This request was granted. - -On the next day, we again visited the criminal court. I was apprized -that several Spaniards had combined, and promised five hundred dollars -for the setting Ramirez at liberty. They had employed a Mr. Davezac as -their third advocate. The officers, some petty officers, and one seaman, -of the two brigs, were heard as witnesses. These proved in the fullest -manner, that the sailor had deserted from the corvette Ourika last year. -The Spaniards produced opposing witnesses. These contradicted each other -so vilely in their respective declarations, that they were soon held -back, so as not to be involved in a charge of perjury as false -witnesses. By this opportunity I learnt, that it was considered -difficult among the Spaniards here to obtain a witness for the sum of -eight dollars, to say any thing in evidence that was required. And yet -that is more than such a complacent witness costs in some other -countries. The lawyers put such strange questions to the Colombian -witnesses, and particularly to the seamen, (as for instance, in what -manner was he enlisted, what was his pay, and how he was paid, how he -was fed and treated?) that the judge called them to order several times. -Mr. Morel conducted his defence very well, and successfully combated the -arguments produced by his antagonists. He then laid down the principle, -which certainly is a very just one, that the person who is on board of a -vessel of war, is within the limits and jurisdiction of that government -to which the vessel may belong. Upon this principle the commodore -necessarily must gain his suit, and this he did in a very satisfactory -manner. - -After the disposal of this cause, on the 17th of March another one was -taken up. A resident lawyer, named Lloyd, whose reputation stood very -low, had, on the preceding day, insulted the presiding Judge Turner in -the street, for which reason the judge had him taken in custody by the -sheriff, and thrown into prison. The injured judge presided in his own -suit, and in this manner was both judge and party. I was informed that -Mr. Turner was insulted in his individual capacity, but that he decided -as a judge in the name of the state of Louisiana. This explanation did -not satisfy me, the distinction between person and his office, may be -correct in theory, it is, however, very hardly so in practice; and on -this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary. It appeared -unfair also to me, that the judge was not assisted by a jury. Farther, -Mr. Lloyd wished to defend his own cause, he was, however, half -intoxicated, and attacked the judge so grossly from time to time, that -he ordered him frequently to be silent. The examination of the witnesses -consumed so much time, that I was obliged to leave the court before the -termination of the case. I heard afterwards that Mr. Lloyd had been -adjudged, to provide two sureties for his good behaviour, during one -year, each in a penalty of one thousand dollars, and since he was not -able to find these securities immediately, to be remanded to prison. - -On the same day, Mr. Bowdoin left us, and embarked on board the -steam-boat George Washington, bound to Louisville: afterwards to return -to New York. I accompanied him on board of the boat, and had an -opportunity of observing her most excellent accommodations. The part -devoted to lodging passengers, is built like a house in a boat. The -lower deck, or deck on which the engine is placed, is occupied by what -are called deck-passengers, those who pay a lower price,--there are cot -frames suspended for them, but if there should be too many, the last -comers must of course sleep on the deck. Above this, is the principal -cabin, the passage in which to Louisville costs fifty dollars. Here is a -handsome saloon lighted from above, in the centre and on each side are -enclosed state-rooms, each with two births, one over the other. Behind -this is the ladies cabin, which can be so joined to it by the opening of -two folding doors, that both apartments may be thrown into one at -pleasure. Around this principal deck, runs a broad and lofty gallery, -for the convenience of travellers. Above the cabin, is the deck also -covered with a roof, where cotton, other articles, and deck-passengers -find accommodation. For such as smoke tobacco, there is a separate -apartment provided, in which they enjoy this acquired habit, without -incommoding the other passengers, or the ladies thereby. For the use of -travellers, there is likewise a library provided on board. The elevated -position of the cabin is very agreeable, because one is not annoyed by -the engine; moreover in case a boiler should burst, he is exposed to -less danger, as the explosion can only direct a fatal force along the -lower deck. There were a pretty large number of passengers on board; the -vessel sailed about half after four o'clock, P. M. and presented a -majestic appearance in her progress. - -On the 19th of March, at nine o'clock, I went with Mr. Huygens, and a -Mr. Authur Andry, to his brother Michael Andry's habitation, about -eleven miles distant from the city below, situated on the right bank of -the Mississippi. The road carried us over the field of battle, and past -the habitation of General Villaret: about two miles farther on, we -stopped at the habitation of Jumonville, left the carriage and embarked -in one of Mr. Andry's ferry-boats, sent over for us, manned by seven -negroes, and crossed the river. There was much drift wood collected on -the left bank, through which we worked our way with difficulty. Then we -had also both wind and current against us, and had to keep guard against -the floating trunks of trees. We spent three quarters of an hour in this -passage. We landed at a large field of clover, belonging to Mr. Andry, -and through the garden reached his large and handsome mansion-house, two -stories high, with a piazza and very broad gallery, which is defended -from the heat of the sun by large curtains extended from pillar to -pillar. Here Mr. Andry received us. - -Not long after our arrival, we went to the sugar-mills, behind the -mansion-house, near the negro-quarter. The mill, in which the cylinders -lie horizontally, is set in motion by a steam-engine of twelve -horse-power, made in Liverpool by Faucett. The juice from the cane flows -into the boiling-house, in which there are ten kettles. Mr. Andry -directs himself all the operations, and while the mill is at work -resides in a small room not far from the engine. He has the reputation -of being very severe to his negroes. Whether this imputation be just or -not, I could not decide, but twelve years ago an insurrection of the -slaves broke out at his habitation, in which one of his brothers was -murdered, and his father received three severe wounds with an axe. The -garden here was not well kept. Scientific gardeners are very difficult -to be procured here. Some years before two ships arrived with German -emigrants, who were sold to defray the price of their passage. There -were several gardeners among them. These men very soon extricated -themselves from their dependent situation, and part of them established -themselves; but the rest fell a sacrifice to the noxious climate. As the -term of their service was limited to a few years, their masters did not -give themselves much trouble to reclaim the runaways. Mr. Andry's garden -was surrounded by a thick hedge of orange trees, and contained many -magnolias, orange trees, myrtles, jasmines, &c. We returned to the left -bank about eleven o'clock at night, and our carriage conveyed us through -the beautiful, mild moonlight, back to New Orleans in an hour. - -In the American theatre, "Der Freischutz" was presented under the title -of the "Black Huntsman of Bohemia." This drama, so universally known and -admired, and which has followed me even in America like an evil genius, -(since detached pieces of it were sung and played in almost all -companies,) I had never yet witnessed. Determined not to remain longer -in the rear of the age, I therefore went to the theatre. The orchestra -was very weak and badly filled, hardly any of the performers could sing; -I was told that the handsomest pieces of music are either abridged or -entirely omitted. The decorations, nevertheless, were tolerably good, -I found the boxes and galleries thronged. In the pit there were but few -spectators, and these consisted of sailors and countrymen from Kentucky, -who made themselves quite at ease on the benches, and cracked nuts -during the finest pieces of music; a custom I have noticed in all -English theatres, and from which my tobacco-chewing neighbours in the -boxes did not refrain. The theatre is newly erected, and is arranged not -untastefully. It contains, besides the pit and parquet, three rows of -galleries as the French theatre; the boxes are only divided by low -balustrades, so that you look out as if from a balcony; the second -gallery is destined for the reception of coloured spectators, among whom -I saw not a single female, and in the upper gallery the mob and women of -the town sit. The saloon is lit with gas, and has a very tasteful -girandole. I remained but for a short time. - -One witnesses almost daily examples of the degrading treatment which the -poor negroes experience. I should say nothing of it, but one particular -scene, which roused my indignation in the highest manner, on the 22d of -March, I cannot suffer to pass in silence. There was a young Virginian -female slave in our boarding-house, employed as a chamber maid, -a cleanly, attentive, quiet, and very regular individual. A Frenchman -residing in the house, called, in the morning early, for water to wash. -As the water was not instantly brought to him, he went down the steps, -and encountered this poor girl, who just then had some other occupation -in hand. He struck her immediately with the fist, in the face, so that -the blood ran from her forehead. The poor creature, roused by this -unmerited abuse, put herself on her defence, and caught the Frenchman by -the throat. He screamed for help, but no one would interfere. The fellow -then ran to his room, gathered his things together, and designed to -leave the house. But when our landlady, Madam Herries, was informed of -this, in order to satisfy the wretch, she disgraced herself by having -twenty-six lashes inflicted upon the poor girl with a cow-hide, and -refined upon her cruelty so much, that she forced the sweetheart of the -girl, a young negro slave, who waited in the house, to count off the -lashes upon her.[II-10] - - [Footnote II-10: This Frenchman, a merchant's clerk from - Montpelier, was not satisfied with this: he went to the police, - lodged a complaint against the girl, had her arrested by two - constables, and whipped again by them in his presence. I regret - that I did not take a note of this miscreant's name, in order that - I might give his disgraceful conduct its merited publicity.] - -The river was progressively on the rise: the level of the water already -higher than the land. It still brought down great quantities of drift -timber with it. It was said, that about three days before, an uncommonly -long and thick rattlesnake had been caught upon a tree that had been -fished out. It was killed by a stroke of an axe, and had eighteen -rattles on its tail. From this it was concluded that extraordinary -inundations had taken place in the upper countries. - -In order to pay my farewell visit to Mr. and Madam Andry, I crossed the -Mississippi river in a little boat, and it occupied me full -three-quarters of an hour to gain the right bank. It required a quarter -of an hour alone to pass through the drift wood, which had collected on -the shore. We were compelled, nevertheless, to direct our course -parallel with the bank, for if we had attained the main current, it -would have swept us down with great force. In addition to this, we -experienced a real equinoctial tempest, so that the passage was far from -being comfortable. I hired a horse upon the opposite bank, and rode in -less than an hour to Mr. Andry's habitation, ten miles distance. The -horses here are trained to a small gallop or canter, which is upon the -whole not fatiguing, and carries you speedily. The storm had driven off -in a thunder-squall, I felt but the beginning of it, and reached the -habitation just at the right time. I galloped back again about five -o'clock in the evening, under a beautiful clear sky. The road ran partly -on the levée, partly along side of it. The land is chiefly cane-fields. -I came past three considerable sugar plantations, from which canals were -made in the cypress woods behind the fields, and thence to the Lake -Barataria. These canals are intended principally for the carriage of -wood. The young sprouts of the sugar cane made their appearance above -ground, and the negroes were employed in weeding it. The passage over -the river was shorter this evening than in the morning, it lasted an -half hour. - -Dr. Herman showed me, at my farewell visit to him, besides his library, -the claws and head of an alligator, which he had shot on the lake -Barataria. The teeth of this reptile are indeed very long, but they do -not appear to be fixed firmly in, but are hollow, and seem as if the -animal changed them periodically; for in the cavities of several teeth, -which had appeared to leave no roots, you see young teeth pushing forth. -Below the under jaw, the alligator has two little glands, which have a -strong odour of musk. The Doctor has dried these glands, and hung them -up in that state for several years, yet still they impart a strong musky -smell. The alligator perhaps may avail himself of this substance to -benumb the fish which come within his reach, and then swallow -them.[II-11] - - [Footnote II-11: [Nonsense.]--TRANS.] - -Bishop Dubourg, whom I have often visited during my residence in this -place, received me one day in his library, which contains besides -theological works, many books of science and belles lettres. I remarked -a perfect set of the French _Encyclopédie_, and complimented the bishop -upon it, and expressed my surprise that he should have been able to -purchase this work so complete in this country. The worthy man related -with a smile how he had acquired it. As he was travelling through -Flanders in 1816 and 1817, in company with the Bishop Prince de Broglio, -he formed an acquaintance with a gentleman and his daughter, well known -for their bigotry. The latter, a great admirer of books, told him -confidingly, that she experienced great scruples on account of keeping -in her library the Encyclopédie, in which so many wicked things were -contained in opposition to the church. She inquired of him whether she -had not better throw this shocking book into the fire? He himself being -a great book fancier, and having observed that the work was complete, -forbid this pious proceeding, and told her that if she would commit it -to his custody, he would provide against its proving prejudicial. In -this manner he saved this expensive work from destruction, and thereby -enriched his own library. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - _Travels up the Mississippi from New Orleans to St. Louis, and to - St. Charles, on the Missouri_. - - -After a stay of nine weeks, I at length left New Orleans, on the 26th of -March, with the most grateful feelings towards its inhabitants, who had -received me in a friendly and affectionate manner, and had made this -winter so extremely agreeable to me. Never shall I forget what the -families of Messrs. Grymes, Urquhart and Andry, did for my benefit, and -with what cordiality and true hospitality they acted towards me. The -Baron de Marigny has, however, merited the most from my hands, and since -he has it in prospect to leave America, and settle himself in Europe, -I trust yet once more to have it in my power to exhibit my gratitude to -him otherwise than by words. The real creoles are, upon the whole, -a warm-hearted generation, and the people with whom I was least pleased -here, were the Americans, who are mostly brought only by the desire of -accumulating wealth. The Germans in Louisiana, unhappily rank behind -even the Irish. They are mostly a lazy race, not distinguished for their -morality, and very different from their countrymen in Pennsylvania, who, -on account of their moral and industrious characters, are universally -respected, and are worthy of this high regard. - -Since my landing in Boston, on the 26th July, to my reaching New -Orleans, I had travelled the distance of four thousand two hundred and -seventy-five English miles. I entered now upon another great journey. -I designed to go from here to St. Louis, thence through the states of -Illinois, Indiana and Ohio to Pittsburgh, thence through Pennsylvania by -Philadelphia to New York. Here I proposed, with God's help, to embark -for Liverpool, in the month of June. - -About ten o'clock in the morning, I repaired from the Levée on board the -steam-boat Phoenix, bound for St. Louis, and immediately left the shore. -Eight steam-boats ascended the river on the same day. Ours was the -finest of this number. She was not large and had proportionately a too -powerful and dangerous high pressure engine. This communicated to the -vessel such a violent shock, that it was hardly possible to write. Mr. -Huygens was still my travelling companion; and I found to my great -satisfaction, a new and very welcome one in M. Hottinguer, the son of a -banker in Paris, whom I had known in New York, and who was now desirous -of viewing the western states on his return to Europe. The remaining -passengers, only three in number, were inhabitants of St. Genevieve, not -far from St. Louis, in the state of Missouri. The day was very -beautiful; the city, as well as the extensive suburb of St. Marie, -afforded a very picturesque view. What a pity that the shores are so -very low. It is hard to determine where the suburb St. Marie ends, the -houses gradually stand farther apart, until they are confounded with the -sugar plantations, of which we observed a good many on both banks of the -river, and some ornamented with very convenient dwelling houses. The -banks are highly cultivated, behind the fields, however, the cypress -woods are seen to commence. Towards the afternoon, something broke in -the engine, and we had to lie by for repairs, about three hours. We -heard music on the plantations, as the negroes were allowed to amuse -themselves on this first day of the Easter holy-days. So much timber -drove down the stream, that our engine was frequently stopped, to -prevent the buckets of the wheels from being injured by floating trunks -of trees. - -Our accommodations consisted of a cabin with sixteen births; behind this -were two ladies cabins, of which, as there were no ladies on board, we -took possession, so that we might be located at the greatest possible -distance from the engine. We met three steam-boats, and several keel and -flat boats, which were laden with cotton, meal in barrels, bacon, hams, -birds, &c. - -We passed the whole night without receiving any damage, although we -suffered some heavy blows from floating trunks of trees. The next day -the dwellings were more scattered, all of them, as well as the -sugar-cane fields about them, appeared in good condition. The banks on -both sides we found mostly covered with wood; the cypress had ceased, -and green-leaved trees, such as ash and poplar took their place. At -first the shore was very low, and we could observe from the marks on the -trees left by the water, that at a high stage of it the surrounding -country must be overflowed. Towards midday we passed the small town of -Baton Rouge, which lies upon a height, and may contain about twelve -hundred inhabitants. It was the first town we had noticed. In passing, -I remarked upon the eminence two brick barracks, two stories high, and -good looking, which are inhabited during the summer by the garrison of -New Orleans, on account of their healthy situation. Baton Rouge is one -hundred and thirty-one miles distant from New Orleans, and owes its name -to an ancient Indian trunk of a tree, which was so denominated by the -first French settlers. We did not stop here, but made our first halt -after sunset, at Bayou Sara, one hundred and sixty-three miles from New -Orleans, for an hour, to take in wood for the engine. Above Baton Rouge -the banks were steep, especially the left. Such solitary elevations are -termed here bluffs. The islands in the Mississippi are numbered as they -occur from the junction of the Ohio down. The last is No. 97, we came -this day up above No. 94, and found all these intermediate islands low -and covered with wood. Towards the rising of the sun, we had passed by -at the mouth of the Bayou la Fourche, the little town of Donaldsonville, -where as it is said, the seat of government of Louisiana will be -established.[II-12] We saw three large alligators lying on the shore -sunning themselves, the largest must have been from six to eight feet -long. The weather was fine the whole day. - - [Footnote II-12: [Our author has somehow been confused in his - diary here: the mouth of La Fourche is generally called - seventy-five miles above New Orleans, Stoddart makes it - eighty-one. At any rate it is about half way between Bayou Sara or - Point Coupee and the city of New Orleans; and of course the Duke - must have passed Donaldsonville, which is at the junction of La - Fourche with the Mississippi, in the morning of the day he passed - Baton Rouge.]--TRANS.] - -We did not lie by again in the evening, but went on through the night, -and still received several blows from the drift wood. - -The next morning produced nothing novel; some tortoises only passed us, -sailing on pieces of wood. The river made many and considerable -windings. The banks are every where woody, and for the most part so low, -that from the water-marks on the trees, they must be inundated at high -freshes. There were several high bluffs on the left bank, of which those -called Loftus Heights, appear to be the most remarkable. There is a -small settlement there called Fort Adams, from a fort that formerly -stood here. Scattered, but considerable plantations, are situated on the -shores. The sugar plantations have ceased, and the cotton fields have -taken their place. We stopped at one of these plantations to take in -wood; I embraced this opportunity to land, and look round about me in -the neighbourhood of the plantation. The soil appeared to be of a dark -colour, and very productive. The trees were chiefly of ash and poplar, -of which one was sixteen feet in circumference. Upon all the trees, wild -vines branched aloft, partly from thick trunks; also many locust trees -grew about here. In the garden of the plantation, there stood a large -bush of the champagne rose, as it is called, which appeared very -beautiful, as it was in full bloom, and diffused a delicious odour. The -raising of bees was carried on at this plantation. The vegetation was as -far advanced almost, as it is in Germany about June. The right bank of -the stream still belongs to Louisiana, the left side however, is in -Mississippi. Before we reached Fort Adams, we saw to the left of us the -broad Red river, emptying itself into the Mississippi two hundred and -thirty-two miles from New Orleans. - -I take the liberty of inserting the following account of this river, -which is given in the "Western Navigator," a work which is published -with charts of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers: "The Red river falls -into the Mississippi a little to the south of the thirty-first degree of -north latitude. At its mouth it is about five hundred yards wide, and -its general breadth is between two hundred and fifty and three hundred -yards. The main branch of this majestic stream rises in the Mexican -range of mountains eastward from Santa Fé, in nearly the thirty-sixth -degree of north latitude. It flows about one hundred miles in a -north-eastern direction, unites itself with another broad branch coming -from the north-west, makes then a great circuit towards the south-east, -and follows this direction to the Mississippi for the distance of -fifteen hundred miles. The country about the lower half of the Red river -is pretty well examined, and found equal to the other part of Louisiana -in fertility, except about fifty miles from the Mississippi, which -district is exposed to annual inundations. The cotton and the tobacco -raised about Natchitoches and at the Rapids, are of the best quality, -and command the highest prices. Besides many small craft, the trade -employs several steam-boats at Natchitoches. The bed and shores of this -river consists of clear red sand, mixed with clay and gravel, the same -colour is imparted to the water." - -On the morning of the 29th March we reached Natchez, and made a stop of -some hours, to repair a leaky boiler. I employed this leisure in writing -some letters of thanks to New Orleans. This occupied so much of my time, -that I was not able to look about in Natchez. Several of our company did -so, and informed me that the city was regularly and well built, and -situated upon an eminence on the left bank of the river, removed a short -mile back from it. Upon the bank itself, are some few streets of wooden -houses, with shops for provisioning and supplying the steam-boats, which -mostly make this a station. Back of these streets, rises a sand-hill, -upon which the city stands, and a very laborious ascent through deep -sand carries one there. Natchez is two hundred and ninety-eight miles -distant from New Orleans. - -At half past eight o'clock we proceeded: the banks were very low, and -bluffs were to be seen only now and then on the left side. Only one -solitary plantation on a hill covered with grass appeared well -cultivated. It was situated upon a point called Petit gulf, where the -river makes a remarkable bend, and is three hundred and forty miles from -New Orleans. Besides this, we took notice of several little plantations -which are exposed to inundations, and have only wretched log-houses. -They are fixed there by poor people, who seek to acquire property in -this unhealthy district. We stopt at two of this kind of plantations to -take in wood, and I went ashore both times for exercise. At one of these -places, the owner had put fire to all the trees that were not hewn down, -to make the land arable, and to change the wood into cotton fields. The -day passed over in the same way: our travelling party was increased by a -woman from St. Louis, who had waited for us with her three children at -one of the plantations. She was the wife of a mechanic in St. Louis, who -also was engaged in trade, having been to Santa Fé, in Mexico, and from -there had brought mules for sale to the state of Alabama. He appeared to -have staid away rather too long; his wife, and her three little -children, had travelled after him, but not being able to find him, she -now returned home. - -During the night we passed the little town of Warrenton, on the left -bank of the river, three hundred and ninety-eight miles from New -Orleans, and afterwards another, on an eminence on the same shore, -called Walnut Hills, ten miles farther. About midday, on the 30th of -March, we passed the mouth of the Yazoo. - -Concerning this river, the Western Navigator makes the following -remarks:--"The Yazoo rises in the state of Georgia, takes a -south-westerly direction, meanders through a fertile country, and -empties itself into the Mississippi, in the latitude of 32° 30´. At its -mouth it is about one hundred and thirty yards wide." - -The country was again very monotonous, low banks, partly covered with -water, covered thickly with trees, of which the fresh green leaves were -very much hidden by the disagreeable Spanish moss: some inconsiderable -plantations, where cotton and Indian corn were raised, and the -dwelling-houses, miserable little log-cabins, which are built on a sort -of grate, on account of the overflowing water. We stopt at one of these -places for wood, on the left bank. The labourers discovered among the -wood prepared for them, a snake two feet long, green and yellow striped, -with a white belly. They considered it poisonous, and killed it; -I believe, however, that it was not, for at a dinner in the habitation -of Mr. Andry, the sons of our host brought a similar snake, which he had -found in the garden, into the chamber, and I permitted it, (to the -terror of the ladies,) to creep into my sleeve upon the naked skin. -Although the head of this snake had been cut off, yet the body still had -life, and wound itself so fast upon my finger with the tail that I could -carry it a considerable distance. There are many bears in the woods -here, as the wife of the planter assured me, which make great havoc -among the hogs of the inhabitants, but do not attack men. The islands in -the river are very low, and covered thick with timber. - -The weather had become cold, on the 31st of March it became warmer. -Nothing new! woody shores, high trees, poplars and sycamores, with large -creeping plants, mostly of wild vines, and here and there tall cane. We -passed several low islands, which, as well as a distance on both shores, -were overflowed, also some solitary, mean, and miserable dwellings. The -left bank of the river still is in the limits of the state of -Mississippi, the right thus far is in Arkansas Territory; of which -Little Rock on the Arkansas river is the principal place, at which many -emigrants from the eastern states have settled themselves. About ten -o'clock at night we reached the mouth of the Arkansas. Of this, the -"Western Navigator" speaks as follows:--This very beautiful river is -about three hundred and sixty yards wide, at its mouth it is said to be -fifteen hundred miles long. It rises at forty degrees north latitude in -the Mexican mountains, between the river La Platte on the one side, and -the Rio del Norte on the other. "This river, (as Stoddart writes,) has a -rocky bed, and the navigation of it is much impeded by rapids and -shoals. The extensive country through which it rolls, is diversified by -some mountains, numerous elevations, and fruitful vallies, especially -along the water-courses; by scattered groves and copses of wood, and by -prairies or natural meadows of great extent, where immense flocks of -various kinds of wild animals resort to graze." - -The pilot was obliged to be very careful here, since several dangerous -"snags"[II-13] lay in the river where we passed by the remains of the -steam-boat Putnam, sunk there. We met the beautiful large steam-boat -Caledonia, which, coming from Louisville, went down the river in a most -imposing style. The mouth of the Arkansas is distant five hundred and -ninety and a half miles from New Orleans, and there are still five -hundred and fifty-nine and a half miles remaining to St. Louis, so that -the distance from New Orleans to St. Louis amounts to eleven hundred and -fifty-eight miles. - - [Footnote II-13: In these rivers there is a difference understood - between the two kinds of trunks of trees which lie in the stream, - and are dangerous to vessels, i. e. snags and sawyers. The first, - of which I have spoken already in the Alabama river, are fast at - one end in the bottom, and stand up like piles; the others are not - fastened, by being moved by the current the upper end of the tree - takes a sawing motion, from whence its appellation is derived.] - -On the 1st of April, the shores on both sides, as well as most of the -islands, continued still as low and woody as those we had noticed during -the preceding days. The ugly long moss, however ceased to deform the -trees. Upon the right shore, was situated a little new settlement, -Helena, which, from the appearance of its buildings, must be in a -tolerably thriving condition. Towards evening, we stopped to wood on the -right bank, at a small settlement, called Big Prairie. It was an open -place, surrounded by forests, in which stood some very handsome -live-oaks. As it became dark, we saw in the woods a great number of fire -flies, swarming about, which for a moment led us to think that there was -a smithy, or a high furnace in the forest, out of which the sparks were -flying. The navigation during the night was very dangerous on account of -the number of snags: we received some powerful blows, and a branch, to -which we approached too near in the dark, forced its way into one of the -cabins, and made a considerable breach. Luckily no one at the time was -sleeping there. - -Upon the following day we still contemplated no object but low and -inundated shores. The human dwellings, the most miserable that could be -conceived, were placed along in a scattered manner. As we took in wood -towards evening, we were obliged to fasten to the wood-pile, as the -whole plantation was under water. The lights on the left shore, which -may rise about forty feet, are called the Chickesa Bluffs, of which -there are reckoned four in a stretch of about sixty miles. - -Before we reached the fourth Chickesa Bluff, we passed a large island, -called President's Island. The river changes its course almost every -year, and constantly washes the sand-banks away, while it makes others, -so that the chart of the stream made a few years back, is not to be -depended upon as a guide. The passage in which we sailed along, was at -times rather narrow on account of the island, when the river was at -least an English mile broad. Upon the fourth Chickesa Bluff stood the -quondam Fort Pickering, consisting of a stockade, as were the forts, as -they were called in the Creek nation. The two block houses of this fort -are still visible, of which a plantation house has been made. A short -mile above the fort, stands a group of rather miserable houses: it is -the town of Memphis. It is seven hundred and sixty-three miles from New -Orleans, and three hundred and eighty-seven from St. Louis. - -Above this town of great name, the Wolf river discharges itself into the -Mississippi. The state of Mississippi has its boundary here, and the -state of Tennessee commences. It is reported, that Miss Wright, of whom -notice has been taken before, has settled herself near Memphis, bought -several negroes, and located a plantation. During her travels in the -northern states, she expressed so great a disgust towards slavery, that -she could not be persuaded to cross the Potomac, to go into Virginia. -And now, she has even purchased negroes! It is said, however, that she -has acted thus from a philanthropical designs, to follow a proposed plan -of setting the negroes free, and giving them their liberty by degrees. -I have already given my sentiments at Boston, concerning Miss Wright. -All that I have since heard respecting her, confirms the unfavourable -judgment which I then communicated. A respectable person, who had become -acquainted with her in Philadelphia, said, that she stretched herself on -a sofa, spoke little, and gave herself little or no trouble about any -one, now and then breaking out in detached sentences, such as this, for -example; I believe that bears are of more value than men. At Memphis, -she will, I have no doubt, enjoy many opportunities of confirming -herself in practical experience of the truth of this maxim. In the -evening, we were amused again with the great numbers of fire flies, -which filled the woods. - -On the 3rd of April, we were embarrassed by our fire wood giving out. -The banks were overflowed, and there was no regular landing place to be -obtained. At the place called the new cut-off, we had a very powerful -current against us, which we overcame with great trouble and waste of -time. The wood was so far gone, that old barrels were broke up, and a -mast and several boards were obliged to be sawed for a supply. This new -cut had formed itself in February 1822, and saves the vessels a circuit -of thirteen miles. It may be observed on the chart, what a large bend -the Mississippi makes here. By degrees it washed the small isthmus of -land, which intervened between the bends, and formed itself a new bed -directly through. This neck of land, through which this new cut passes, -is hardly half a mile wide. It is but a short time since the steam-boats -first ventured to take this short route: for the remains of the trees -washed away are still visible, and this admonishes the navigator to be -on his guard. - -After we had passed this strait, which is distant eight hundred and -sixty-nine miles from New Orleans, we stopped on the right bank, to -provide ourselves with wood. We embraced this opportunity to go ashore -for a walk, and into the woods. A young man of our vessel, killed a very -handsome snake in the forest. It was one and a half foot long, whitish, -with coal-black, edged spots on the back, the belly white with black -stripes.[II-14] Farther on, a black eagle with white head and tail was -shot. We saw a similar one in the afternoon fly long before our boat, -he had found a snake which he held in his talons. We met with several -plovers also. After sunset, we stopt at the right bank for the second -time, to obtain more wood for the night. This place was called Point -Pleasant, and there were about it several small plantations; one of -which served as a trade-deposit with the Indians. The Indians bring -deer, buck, muskrat and other skins, and barter them for arms, -ammunition, woollen blankets, stamped calicoes, &c. one of our -travelling companions, Mr. Vallais employed himself in this trade. We -accompanied him to the depôt, whence he brought a whole cart-load of -pressed skins to the boat, to take up with him. - - [Footnote II-14: Coluber coccineus.] - -On the right hand shore the Arkansas territory ceases, and the new state -of Missouri begins. This was first received into the Union two years -since, and with truly great difficulty, and after long debate; as -congress was at issue whether the state should be suffered to permit -slavery within its limits or not. The state at length, however, obtained -that privilege. - -Six miles below Point Pleasant, the little town of New Madrid lies upon -the right bank, nine hundred and twelve miles from New Orleans. We past -by it in the night, to my great regret; for I should have liked to have -seen the remains of the violent earthquake, which prevailed here in the -years 1811 and 1812. There are great sink-holes to be seen here yet, in -which trees are buried. The soil upon which the town itself stood, has -sunk many feet, and the place has suffered very much. New Madrid was a -Spanish settlement, and so long as the whole right bank of the -Mississippi, that is, from 1763 to 1803, belonged to the Spaniards, -under the name of Louisiana, there was a Spanish military post there. -On the left bank of the river this evening, we left the jurisdiction of -Tennessee, and entered that of Kentucky. - -On the 4th of April, it was exactly one year, since I left the city of -Ghent, and my family. The time has passed over rapidly with me, I have -seen many remarkable things, my mind has been kept on a constant -stretch; nevertheless, that which passed more than a year ago is as -present, as if performed but a few days since. If the great Architect of -the universe shall conduct me in health home to those I love, which I -have prayed for, then shall the 4th of April be a festival-day in my -family as long as I live. - -Both shores of the river, appeared in the forenoon just as they appeared -during the last days. Only we remarked two elevations on the left bank, -of which one was called Chalk Bank, the other Iron Bank. About one -o'clock in the afternoon we found ourselves opposite the mouth of the -Ohio river. The river is here very broad, and both streams with their -low banks, grown thick with wood, puts one in mind of the Mecklenburg -lakes. - -The Western Navigator says, in a note concerning the Ohio: "The Ohio -arises from the junction of the Alleghany with the Monongahela at -Pittsburgh, the first is about three hundred and seventy, the -latter near five hundred yards broad at their mouths. After a -west-south-westerly course of nine hundred and fifty-two miles the Ohio -empties itself into the Mississippi about in the degree of north -latitude thirty-seven. It changes its breadth from four hundred to -fourteen hundred yards. At Cincinnati it is eight hundred and -forty-seven yards wide, which may be considered its medium. Its course -is gentle, not broken by falls or rapids, except at Louisville. It is -inferior to few streams in the convenience of communication from one -part to the other, especially if the operation of canaling the falls, -and erecting of locks, which has long been contemplated, be carried -through with success. The height of the falls is estimated at twenty-two -and a half feet, the length of the descent two miles. The greatest -extremes of falling in the height of the river, are between Pittsburgh -and the Mississippi; they lessen as the river is descended, and the -medium height is from twenty-five to thirty feet. At the lowest state of -water, the river is fordable in many places above the falls." - -The mouth of the Ohio is nine hundred and seventy-seven miles from New -Orleans, and one hundred and seventy-three from St. Louis. Two -steam-boats, the Friendship and Philadelphia, which had remained near us -all the way from New Orleans, here left us, and ascended the Ohio. The -Mississippi continues still very broad above the Ohio, and contains many -islands. From the mouth of the Ohio, the left shore of the river belongs -to the state of Illinois, the right, as already observed, to the state -of Missouri. The banks of the Mississippi begin to be something higher, -and at times still more rocky. We stopt at a couple of solitary houses -on the right bank for wood. During this halt I went into the wood lying -back, to walk, and remarked several sycamores of an uncommon height and -stoutness; I believe I can affirm that one of them was twenty feet in -circumference. We observed from the cooler air, and the less precocious -vegetation, that we were again in a more northern climate. A few of the -trees were in leaf, others were blossoming, which in New Orleans, -occurred six weeks ago. Near the dwellings were large orchards, in which -the apple-tree was in blossom. On the bank grew arbres de judée, whose -blossoms resemble those of the peach-tree, and near them blossoming -white-thorns. - -The water in the Ohio had risen very much for some days, and poured with -force into the Mississippi; this circumstance assisted our progress, -since above the junction we had a weaker stream to contend with. At ten -o'clock at night we reached a little town on the right bank, Gape -Girardeau, where Mr. Vallais had some goods to land. This place is -situated on a high bank, and appears to be thriving and well built, in a -fruitful and tolerably populous district. On account of the numerous -snags under water and the sawyers, the navigation during the night would -have been dangerous, we therefore spent the night at Cape Girardeau. -There are here several examples of unlucky steam-boats. The place is one -hundred and thirty-two miles from St. Louis. - -On the 5th of April we were set in motion before daybreak, and stopped -towards morning at a group of five wooden houses, called the town of -Bainbridge, one hundred and twenty-two miles from St. Louis, on the -right bank. Again goods were landed, and wood taken in. In the outset of -our day's trip, the shores became higher. Upon the right side we saw -sandstone rock, probably forty feet high; they were partly worn with -water, and had singular forms. One of these rocks, which stands alone, -is called the Devil's tea-table. Farther the river is compressed in its -course between two ledges of rock, of which one is called the Devil's -bake-oven, where several steam-boats have gone down. The current is here -very strong. On the right bank rises a solitary rock named the Tower, -resembling very much an old fortress. It must be about one hundred feet -in circumference, and one hundred and fifty feet high. The river became -by degrees narrower. The vegetation continued still more backward. -Towards evening, we encountered a very heavy storm, that lasted, with -severe thunder, rain and hail, for a couple of hours. On this account we -could advance no farther without danger, and remained during the night -on the right bank near the Saline River's mouth, sixty-nine miles and a -half distant from St. Louis. On this river considerable and profitable -salt works are established. - -On the sixth of April, we moved again before daybreak. The storm of -yesterday had cooled the air very perceptibly. After we had advanced -five miles farther, we stopt on the left bank. An establishment was -placed there, Simonton's Warehouse, where the goods intended for -Kaskaskia were landed, which is a town in the state of Illinois, lying -on the river Ouwa or Kaskaskia, two miles from the warehouse: we soon -got under way again. The country on the right bank was very well -cultivated. On a small eminence we beheld the little town of St. -Genevieve. This place is one mile distant from the river, on a little -stream called Gabane creek. Mr. Vallais, and another of our fellow -travellers, Mr. Rozier, a native of Nantes, and established as a -merchant in St. Genevieve, landed their goods purchased in New Orleans -here, and took leave of us. - -We stopped several hours. The river takes a new direction against the -right bank, wears it out in hollows, and often tears away whole fields, -by which the left bank profits. We accompanied our fellow voyagers to -the town, which contains about two thousand inhabitants, of both -complexions. The road ran between fields of Indian corn, and then over a -bridge on Gabane creek. The place has regular streets, but has rather a -poor appearance. I remarked only three substantial houses: one of them -stands on an open square, and is the court-house. Not far from this is -the prison, a box framed of strong timbers. Upon the eminence on which -the place slopes down, stands a massive edifice, which indeed had a roof -upon it, but was without doors or windows, and threatened to fall in. -It was destined for an academy, but for want of funds the plan was not -completed. The place receives great advantage from the neighbouring lead -mines. The navigation near St. Genevieve is extremely dangerous, from -the snags lying under the water. Two steam-boats have been sunk here, -the Franklin and the Cincinnati. The accident of the last took place -when Prince Paul of Wirtemburg was on board. I noticed here several -pieces of a very brittle sandstone, found in the vicinity of St. -Genevieve, and sent as an article of trade to Pittsburgh, where it is -used in the manufacture of glass. - -Before we proceeded on our voyage, we received the visit of a Shawnee -Indian on board, a well looking man of about thirty years of age, who -spoke tolerably good English. He travelled on horse-back with his gun, -hunted on the way, and sold his venison. His dress was very similar to -that of the Creek Indians. Between twelve and one o'clock, we were again -under way. The right bank continued rocky, and contained below very -singular shapes and excavations, which reminded me of the rocks on the -Inn, and the one called Buckfarth Castle. - -About ten miles above St. Genevieve an island lies on the left shore, -called Fort Chartres, where at the time of the first French -establishment, a fort of this name was standing. It was nevertheless -partly torn away by the current, and at present, has vanished entirely. -We passed several islands, of which three are called the Plattan -islands. In the woods on these we saw many birds with parti-coloured -feathers, the largest among them were cormorants. About 5 o'clock in the -evening, we reached Herculaneum, a little town on the right shore. The -river Joachim, which has been turned into Owashing creek, which here -flows into the Mississippi, divides the place into two parts. -Herculaneum is thirty miles from St. Louis, is very small, but contains -several decent houses, and supports itself by the lead establishments, -furnished by the mines in the neighbourhood, and by two shot factories. -The rocks, which form the right bank of the river, open themselves here -to let the Owashing pass through, which flows in a narrow, truly -picturesque valley, which again recalled the Ilmthal to my mind. Looking -from the river, Herculaneum is situated between two high crags of rock, -in the back ground woody heights crowned with rocks, and appears very -handsome. On each summit of the rocks, stands what is called a shot -tower. The material of the rock here is wacke, in which there are many -flints. We stopt here to take in wood. - -The 7th of April, we continued our voyage about five o'clock, and -reached St. Louis about eleven o'clock forenoon. Thus had we -accomplished a distance of 1150 miles in less than thirteen days against -the current, which before the introduction of the steam-boat required at -least three months, a new testimony of the importance of this noble -discovery, so honourable to the human intellect. - -We enquired in several houses for accommodation, but found the most of -them too bad; and remained at length in the Missouri Hotel, a tolerably -moderate kind of an inn, where we were obliged to house ourselves very -narrowly. - -St. Louis has existed since the year 1763, and was settled by French and -Canadians. In that year when Canada with the left bank of the Illinois -and Mississippi were ceded to England, these people were not willing to -be English subjects, and withdrew to the right bank of the Mississippi, -which then was under the dominion of France, but soon after was given up -to Spain. The emigrants built St. Louis and St. Charles on the Missouri, -as well as several other little places: they lived a long time cut off -from the civilized world, and surrounded by Indians. They effected but -little in the cultivation of the soil, had almost no agriculture, and -supported themselves by hunting. They would at length have become -savages, had not this territory, with Louisiana, in the year 1803, came -into the possession of the United States. Since that time communication -and roads have been opened between the United States and St. Louis; many -Americans and foreigners removed here, and brought their property and -their industry with them: and by the introduction of the use of -steam-boats, a new and easy intercourse was opened with the shores of -the Ohio, and with New Orleans, that important depôt of the western -states. A glance at the map of the United States shows what an -interesting place St. Louis is destined to become, when the white -population has spread itself more westwardly from the Mississippi, and -up along the Missouri river. Perhaps it may yet become the capital of a -great nation. - -St. Louis lies upon a rather high rocky foundation on the right bank of -the Mississippi, and stretches itself out, nearly a mile in length, in -the direction of the river. The most of the houses have a garden towards -the water, the earth is supported by walls, so that the gardens form so -many terraces. The city contains about four thousand inhabitants. It -consists of one long main street, running parallel with the river, from -which several side streets run to the heights behind the city. Here -single houses point out the space, where another street, parallel with -the main street can one day be built. The generality of the houses are -new, built of brick two stories high; some are of rough stone, and -others of wood and clay in the Spanish taste, resembling the old houses -in New Orleans. Round the city, along the heights, formerly ran a wall, -but it is now taken away. At the corners stood massive round -guard-towers, the walls of which one still can see. - -In a northern direction from the city, are seven artificial hillocks, in -two rows, which form a parallelogram. They belong to the much talked of -Indian mounds and fortifications, of which numbers are found on the -shores of the Ohio and Mississippi, and which are dispersed over these -regions from Lake Erie to New Mexico. There exists neither documents nor -traditions concerning the erection of these works, or of the tribe of -people who erected them. In some, a great quantity of human bones have -been discovered, in others, on the contrary, nothing. This double row -near St. Louis has not yet been examined. - -Soon after our arrival, we made some visits to deliver the introductory -letters given me by Bishop Dubourg. We called first upon General Clark, -governor of the state of Missouri. The general was absent in Washington. -We were, however, received in a very friendly manner by his wife and -daughters. Governor Clark is moreover the well-known fellow traveller of -the late Governor Lewis, in the expedition to the mouth of Columbia -river, on the Pacific ocean, in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806. We -afterwards went to visit Mr. Choteau, who was one of the founders of St. -Louis, who was not at home. - -As we were so near the Missouri, we were unwilling to leave this part of -the country, without at least looking at that interesting river; for St. -Charles, a little town on the left bank of the Missouri, which empties -into the Mississippi some twenty miles above St. Louis, is but twenty -miles distant from this city. Not to lose any time, we determined to go -there this very day. We therefore hired a little two-horse carriage, and -with it, I and Mr. Hottinguer, and Mr. Huygens, began our journey in the -afternoon. At first, all went right. The road ran through an uneven -prairie, upon which many cattle pastured. After a ride of eight miles, -we came into a forest, which lasted all the way to the Missouri. The -country was pretty hilly, the forest consisted of green-leaved timber, -oaks, and various nut-bearing trees, of Canadian poplars, and much -sumach. On most of the trees, climbing plants mounted over them, wild -vines, and ivy. There was hardly any sign of the spring here yet: the -vegetation was still as backward as at that period of the year in -Flanders. This made no very friendly impression upon us, who had just -arrived from New Orleans, where it had long been summer. In the woods we -found several solitary inclosures, made by worm-fences. Wheat, oats, and -Indian corn were raised here. The cattle, and the numerous swine -bivouacked in the woods, and were obliged to take care of themselves. -There are a number of emigrants from the eastern states, also Germans, -established here in Missouri, who have purchased the land from -government for one dollar and a half per acre, and made it arable. Most -of them, however, repent of this proceeding; on account of the small -population of this state, and the want of a market, they cannot dispose -of their produce. We also passed a little village "the station," and -afterwards had nearly been lost in the forest, as our coachman knew -nothing of the road. The road was marshy and very bad; and to complete -our misfortune the night shut in. One of our companions betook himself -to his knowledge of astronomy, and wished to steer us by the pole star. -I trusted more to my judgment of localities, and opposed all learned -demonstrations. My other companion voted with me, and therefore we -proceeded by my guidance, and I had the glory of finding the true road, -for we arrived at half-past ten o'clock at night, on the right bank of -the Missouri, opposite St. Charles, at Chauvin's ferry. - -The way had latterly become so bad, that to prevent accidents, we -proceeded on foot. It was too late to cross the river to St. Charles; -we therefore had a frugal supper prepared for us at the ferry-house, and -passed the night in a little garret-room. The country in the -neighbourhood of the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, cannot -in any manner be healthy; in the summer bilious fevers prevail, and in -the winter, what they call the influenza, which has shown itself in most -of the northern states. It consists of a very severe cough, joined with -rheumatic symptoms. If the disease be neglected, death may be the -consequence. To my no small alarm and dissatisfaction, one of our -chamber associates was very much affected with this influenza, and -another stranger, who slept in the next apartment, was visited by this -malady likewise; so that we were fated to hear a most annoying cough -duett. - -On the next morning we crossed early to the left bank of the Missouri, -where St. Charles was situated, in a small canoe. The river is here -three-quarters of a mile broad, has excessively thick and muddy water, -and a very powerful current. The right bank is rather level, yet so high -that it experiences no inundation, while the left is pretty hilly. St. -Charles, which has the same origin with St. Louis, lies at the foot of a -hill; it consists of a single street running parallel with the river, -and is mostly built of brick. These houses are for the greater part -built by the Americans who have come here in later times, and are -inhabited by them as the most respectable portion of the inhabitants. -The Canadian, (or as they are called here, from their original parentage -and their language, the French,) are less industrious than the -Americans, and occupy themselves of preference in hunting; they live in -smaller, older houses, at the commencement and termination of the -street. The place may contain one thousand inhabitants, who nearly all -belong to the Catholic faith, and have a small wooden church. I spoke to -the present pastor, Verhegghen, a native of Ghent, a young man, who, -with the Abbé Maenhout in Pensacola, and many other young students from -Flanders, accompanied Bishop Dubourg on his return from Europe. Abbé -Verhegghen told me, that eight Flanders clergymen were appointed either -as pastors through the state, or placed in the seminary five miles from -St. Genevieve. - -St. Charles has no remarkable exterior, and the streets are not paved. -We had it in contemplation to go to an eminence lying below the town, -"les Mamelles," where it was said there was a view of the Missouri and -Mississippi both at once. The road carried us through a wood, which -begins below St. Charles. We had no guide, lost our way, and came at -last to a couple of lonely cabins. These cabins were inhabited by -Canadians, who took me for a Catholic pastor. We learned to our dismay, -that far from the "Mamelles," we had six miles between us and St. -Charles. In this manner we took a sentimental walk of twelve miles for -nothing. Luckily for us we had fine weather. We had constantly remained -in the vicinity of the river, the return way took us somewhat -differently, and we came to a great marshy meadow, from which we could -distinguish the heights on the left bank of the Mississippi. The forest -is rather thick, with the same trees before-mentioned, and with large -and very thick sycamores. Not a sign of herbage was to be seen. In the -forest, however, there were beautiful birds, a pair were of a dazzling -sky-blue, and several paroquets, similar to those I had seen on the -river Alabama. For snakes, and especially for rattlesnakes, which are -found in great numbers here in summer, it was now too cold. - -Exceeding fatigued with our useless promenade, we crossed the Missouri -immediately from St. Charles to Chauvin's ferry, where we had slept. We -took our dinner here, and set out on the road to St. Louis in our little -light carriage, about four o'clock. We got over the worst part of the -road by daylight. We were surprised at the great numbers of partridges, -upon which we came, and which were so tame, that they would hardly run -out of our way: they remained sitting within ten paces of us. As the -night overtook us, we reached the better part of the road. We passed a -bivouack of an emigrant family, and arrived in St. Louis without -accident, in a very cold night about ten o'clock. - -The 9th of April found us plunged into the midst of winter. It never -ceased snowing and freezing during the whole day. Except a slight fall -of it that I had experienced at Harper's ferry, in the month of -November, 1825, this was the first snow that I happened to witness in -America. We could not make up our minds to go abroad, but preferred -sitting at the fire-side, and entertained ourselves with past happy -days. Later, however, we paid Mrs. Clark a visit, and spent the evening -at her house. - -The steam-boat Mexico, Captain Clark, from the Prairie des Chiens on the -upper Mississippi, arrived this day, in the afternoon, at St. Louis, -fired a cannon to announce it, and intended to sail the next morning -down the Mississippi, and up the Ohio to Louisville and Pittsburgh. -I determined to embrace this opportunity to arrive in the Ohio, and then -visit New Harmony on the Wabash. My design at first was to have gone by -land through the state of Illinois, to Vincennes, and from there down -the Wabash to New Harmony. From information since obtained, this road -would be almost bottomless at this season of the year, several rivers -were to be crossed, and those provided with miserable ferries. For these -reasons, I declined the journey by land, in which, without such -considerations, there was nothing interesting to attract attention. - -I had also felt a desire to visit the lead-mines, of which the most -important lie at Potosi, sixty miles from St. Louis, which are almost -daily increasing in consequence. I declined to join in this excursion, -since the journey there would take at least two days, the return as -much, and besides the road was described as wretched in the highest -degree. I was told, that the lead ore lies almost on the surface, and is -so extensive, that it is not worth the trouble to dig for it deep. If -therefore a shaft is pushed so deep as to strike water, this shaft is -abandoned and another opened. This easy method of working will last -until the owner has laboured over every part of his territory, then he -will be obliged to have recourse to water-pumps, and steam-engines. On -Fever river, on the upper Mississippi, are also very rich lead-works. -These, united to the works at Potosi, have delivered, during nine -months, eight hundred and eighty-seven thousand two hundred and -ninety-eight pounds of lead; the amount of per centage which the United -States receive from these works during that time, was a hundred and four -thousand one hundred and thirteen pounds. It is supposed, that in the -next year the mine-works will produce from three to four million pounds -of lead, which must be three hundred and fifty thousand pounds for the -share of the United States. It is but a few years since these mines were -worked. - -On the 10th of April, we paid yet some other visits, before our -departure. First, to Major Biddle of the sixth regiment of infantry. -He is a brother to Commodore Biddle, and also of the President of the -United States Bank, in Philadelphia. His wife, educated in France, does -not appear particularly delighted with these out posts of civilization. -We then went to see Mrs. Clark, who, through the secretary of her -husband, Mr. Alexander, exhibited to us the museum collected by the -governor on his travels, and since considerably augmented. Mr. Alexander -showed us articles of Indian clothing of different kinds, and various -materials,--except the leather, the larger part of these materials were -American, or rather entirely European in their origin. A single garment -alone, was made by the Cherokees of cotton, which was pulled, spun, wove -on a loom, made by an Indian, and even dyed blue by them. Besides, -several weapons of different tribes, wooden tomahawks, or battle-axes, -in one of them was a sharp piece of iron to strike into the skulls of -their prisoners; another made of elks-horn, bows of elks-horn and of -wood, spears, quivers with arrows, a spear head of an Indian of the -Columbia river, hewed out of flint, a water-proof basket of the same -people, in which cooking can be performed, several kinds of tobacco -pipes, especially the calumet, or great pipe of peace. The heads of this -pipe are cut out of a sort of argillaceous earth, or serpentine; in time -of war the spot where this stone is dug out, is regarded as neutral, and -hostile parties, who meet each other at that place, cannot engage in any -thing inimical against each other. The pipe which the commissioners of -the United States use at treaties with the Indians, has a heavy silver -head, and a peculiarly handsome ornamented wooden stem. Farther: Mr. -Alexander showed us the medals which the Indian chiefs have received at -different periods from the Spanish, English and American governments, -and the portraits of various chiefs, who have been at St. Louis to -conclude treaties with the governor, who is also Indian agent. Among the -remarkable things in natural history, we noticed an alligator, eight -feet long; a pelican; the horns of a wild goat, shot by the governor in -his tour among the rocky mountains; the horns of a mountain-ram, and -those of an elk, several bearskins, among others, of the white bear; -buffalo, elk, of the skunk, which were sowed together in a robe, skins -of martins, ferrets, &c. &c. moreover, several petrifactions of wood, -and animal subjects, among others, of elephants teeth, a piece of -rock-salt, tolerably white, yet not shooting in crystals, as the -English; various crystals; a large piece of rock crystal; very handsome -small agates, which are here taken for cornelians, &c. Among the -curiosities, the most remarkable were two canoes, the one of -animal-hide, the other of tree-bark, a peace-belt, which consists of a -white girdle, set with glass beads two hands breadth wide; farther, snow -shoes, nets which are drawn over an oval frame, also the rackets, which -they use in playing their game of ball, &c. &c. - -After the examination of this interesting collection, we paid our visit -to Mr. Choteau. This is a venerable old man of eighty years, a native of -New Orleans. He told us that at the founding of St. Louis, he felled the -first tree. His house resembling in architecture the old -government-house in New Orleans, was the first substantial building -erected here. The conversation with this aged man, who received us like -a patriarch, surrounded by his descendants, was very interesting. He was -of opinion that the people from whom the Indian antiquities have come -down to us, either by a pestilential disease, or by an all-destroying -war, must have been blotted from the earth. He believed that Behring's -Straits were more practicable formerly than at present, at least it must -have been Asiatic hordes that came to America. How otherwise, -(asked he,) could the elephants, since there have been none ever upon -this continent, have reached the American bottom, where their bones are -now found? This bottom is a very rich body of land, running south, -opposite to St. Louis. Mounds and fortifications are found there, of the -kind spoken of before. Here the elephants bones are not scattered about, -but found laid in a long row near each other, as if they had been killed -in a battle, or at the assault of some fortification. I gave him a -description of the opening of a Roman mound, at which I was present with -my father, in the year 1813, and he expressed his astonishment at the -great similarity between these mounds, and those of the Indian -grave-hills. Among the stone war-hatchets in the governor's museum, -there are several resembling the battle-axes which are found in Germany -at these mounds. - -In our inn there lodged merchants, who prepare caravans, with which they -go in a space of from between forty and fifty days, to Santa Fé in New -Mexico. The articles which they mostly carry there, consist of cotton -fabrics, cloths, iron ware, &c. These goods they pack in four-horse -wagons, covered over, in which they sleep at night. There are about one -hundred men in such a caravan. From Santa Fé they bring back dollars and -mules. - -After dinner the worthy old gentleman, Mr. Choteau, surprised us by a -visit, and brought his brother, his sons, and a Captain Smith, of the -first regiment of infantry, who is here on recruiting duty, with him. He -staid long with us and was very talkative. He related, for example, that -at the commencement of the settlement of St. Louis, the Indians attacked -the town, which was only defended by one hundred and fifty men, and that -they were driven off. After this attack, the Spaniards had built the -defensive towers, of which the remains stand yet around the city. They -resemble the English Martello towers, and like them were of but little -value. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - _Travels from St. Louis to New Harmony.-- Mr. Owen's System and - Experiment._ - - -On the 10th of April at seven o'clock, P. M. we left St. Louis, in the -Mexico, a neat boat with a low pressure engine. We went down the stream -so rapidly, that we advanced fourteen and fifteen miles per hour. We -received an unpleasant shock during the night from a snag. It gave the -vessel such a violent blow, that all were roused from sleep, and sprang -out of bed: I thought that the boat was going down. Happily we were only -scared this time. Towards morning we hastened past Cape Girardeau, and -all the places which we had seen a few days before. It was agreeable for -us again to come something more southerly, and recognize traces of -vegetation. We reached the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi -about twelve o'clock in the day. We then quitted the Mississippi, and -steered into the Ohio. - -At the period when the French extended their posts from Canada to New -Orleans, the Ohio was known to them under the name of "La Belle -Riviere;" Mr. Choteau, Senr. used this appellation constantly in -speaking of it, while conversing with me. The water of the Ohio is much -clearer and purer than that of the Mississippi, which is evidently very -foul from the confluence of the Missouri. At the union with the Ohio, -this difference in the colour of the streams is striking, when you pass -from the turbid waters of the Mississippi into the purer current of the -Ohio. They are divided from each other by a perceptible line, disturbed -cloudings being visible on each side of this line. - -I took a solemn leave of the majestic father of rivers, the Mississippi; -but, with God's permission, not an eternal one. - -The banks of the Ohio are at first very low, and exposed to inundations. -Upon the right bank, eleven miles above the mouth, lies a small place, -consisting of a few wooden houses, called America. It is built upon a -bank raised several feet above the highest water-mark. It is only three -miles hence across to the Mississippi. A project, therefore has been -agitated, and a company formed with a capital of ten thousand dollars, -to cut through this narrow piece of land, to unite the rivers sooner, -and gain an easier navigation. Since the bank is not exposed to overflow -at this point, as I have remarked before, a town may be established -here, in process of time, when this design is carried into effect, that -will be extremely important and wealthy. - -About six miles from the mouth, stand a tavern and warehouses, on the -right bank, which is called Trinity. In this vicinity there are several -rocks concealed under the water, that must be very dangerous at a low -stage of the river. Some miles higher, thirty-seven and a half miles -from the mouth, fourteen hundred miles from New Orleans, and three -hundred and thirty-four and a half from Louisville, is Fort Massac, -situated on an eminence on the right bank. The remains of a stockade, -two block-houses, and barracks, are what is left of this fort, which -gains its name from the massacre of the French garrison by the Indians. -As long as the western military posts of the United States were kept up, -an infantry company remained here in garrison. This fort has been -abandoned for a long time. Nine miles higher up on the left bank, the -Tennessee river flows into the Ohio, upon which the Western Navigator -makes the following remarks: "This river is the largest branch of the -Ohio, and is navigable for large boats more than six hundred miles. It -rises in the north western part of Virginia, and runs through the whole -breadth of East Tennessee, in a south-westerly direction. Afterwards it -enters at the north-east corner of Alabama, through the breadth of which -it runs, then turning in a northern direction, nearly in a direct line -with the western boundary of that state, it flows through Tennessee and -a part of Kentucky, in which it discharges itself into the Ohio." The -right bank of the river on which we were now sailing, belongs to the -state of Illinois, and the left to Kentucky. Both shores are thickly -covered with woods. Although our course up the stream did not equal the -speed with which we had descended the Mississippi, yet we made handsome -progress. - -On the second night we went on, in spite of the snags, and without -accident. On the third day, 12th of April, we were delighted with the -prospect of the beautiful banks of the Ohio, thickly covered with wood. -The right shore especially is rocky, and occupied by neat dwellings and -little settlements. During the night we had passed the mouth of the -Cumberland, an eastern tributary river to the Ohio. This is one of the -largest rivers in Kentucky. It rises in the Cumberland mountains, in the -vicinity of the heads of Clinch and Kentucky rivers, flows in a westerly -direction more than two hundred miles, enters the state of Tennessee, -reaching Nashville, after meandering through that state one hundred and -twenty miles, in the thirty-sixth degree of north latitude, or -thereabouts, flows then one hundred and twenty miles in a north-west -course, and discharges itself into the Ohio. - -This mouth of Cumberland is eight hundred and ninety-four miles from -Pittsburgh, and ten hundred and thirty-five from New Orleans. On the -right shore we saw the little town of Golconda, afterwards the Cave in -Rock, where a considerable cavern runs into the rock. It reaches one -hundred and fifty feet deep under the hill, and was used by a robber in -former days for a place of residence, whence he sallied out and -plundered the passing flat-boats and smaller craft. - -Towards noon we reached Shawnee town, on the right bank, ten hundred and -ninety-five miles from New Orleans, and eight hundred and thirty-four -from Pittsburgh. The Western Navigator says, "Shawnee town was formerly -a village which belonged to the Shawnee Indian nation, and bore its -name. It is at present a handsomely situated town, in Gallatin county, -state of Illinois. It contains a post-office, a land-office, and a bank, -called the Great Bank of Illinois, with a capital of two hundred -thousand dollars. Although it is subject to be overflowed, yet it is -nevertheless a considerable place, since it is the centre of the -emigrants going to Kaskaskias, St. Louis, &c." It appeared to me safe -from inundation, as it lies upon a tolerably elevated bank. The houses, -of which many contain stores, are mostly of wood, yet I observed many of -brick. It may contain eight hundred inhabitants, mostly white persons. -The states of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio, lying between the Mississippi -and Ohio, hold no slaves; a slave coming here from other states is free: -and yet these states are only divided by the Mississippi from Missouri, -and by the Ohio from Kentucky and Virginia, in which three states, -slavery still exists. - -Ten miles above Shawnee town we passed the mouth of the Wabash, -a western tributary of the Ohio. - -The Wabash, a very beautiful river, rises not far from the sources of -the Miami of the Lakes, and meanders through one of the most fertile -districts of the west. At its mouth, it is about two hundred and fifty -yards broad, and is navigable about four hundred miles. The Wabash forms -the boundary between the states of Illinois and Indiana, the right bank -belongs to the former, the left to the latter state. About evening, the -steam-boat landed Mr. Huygens and myself on the right bank at Mount -Vernon, a place established about two years ago, whence we proposed to -go by land to New Harmony. Mr. Hottinguer left us, as he pursued his -voyage in the steam-boat; I parted very reluctantly from this esteemed -fellow traveller, who possessed many good qualities, above all others, -one seldom found in his countrymen, great modesty. - -Mount Vernon lies upon a high bank, one hundred and twenty-six miles -from New Orleans, and eight hundred and three from Pittsburgh. It is a -favourable situation for trade, laid out on an extensive plan, but has -only frame houses, and at most three hundred inhabitants. It is the new -capital of Posey county. A prison was finished for the use of the -county; a court-house was about to be built. We formed an acquaintance -with a physician established here, and a travelling merchant. The roots -of the felled trees remained yet in the streets of the town, the woods -began close behind the houses; nay, the latest built were encircled by -them. - -On the following morning, 15th of April, we hired a two-horse wagon, to -carry us to the village of New Harmony, which is sixteen miles distant -from Mount Vernon, and lies on the left shore of the Wabash. The road -passed through a hilly country, thickly grown with green-leaved trees. -The way was made very bad by former rains, and the most miry places were -mended with logs, forming a grievous causeway;[II-15] over a little -stream, called Big creek, we crossed a tolerable wooden bridge. About -half way is Springfield, at first made the capital of Posey county, -which, however, afterwards was changed to Mount Vernon, as I have -mentioned before. In Springfield the county gaol still remains, also a -brick court-house, and about ten wooden houses, two of them are taverns. -As the road was very bad, and the horses went very slow, I walked at -least ten miles, and arrived at New Harmony, before the carriage. As -soon as you clear the woods, you have a very handsome view of the place. -It lies in a valley, not far from the Wabash. The woody and low banks of -this river, were at present, in the neighbourhood of New Harmony, -overflowed. From the roots of trees still remaining, it was visible, -that this country had been covered with wood but a short time back. - - [Footnote II-15: [These log turnpikes are better known by the name - of "corduroy roads."]--TRANS.] - -In fact, it is but eleven years since Mr. Rapp with his society, after -they had disposed of Harmony in Pennsylvania, moved here, and felled the -first tree to found New Harmony in a country inhabited only by wolves, -Indians, bears, rattlesnakes, &c. The hills immediately next to the -place, are already cleared of timber of the larger kind; they are -converted into vineyards, and partly into orchards. Farther off are -meadows and fields to the right, and to the left fruit and vegetable -gardens, carefully enclosed by palisades. New Harmony itself, has broad -unpaved streets, in which good brick houses appear alternately, with -framed cabins and log houses: the streets are regular, running at right -angles. We took up our quarters in the only tavern there, belonging to -the community; it was passable. - -Rapp's society, called from their former residence, the Harmonites, -consisted of Wurtemburgers. Their early history is known, and perhaps, -when I visit this society from Pittsburgh in their new establishment, -"Economy," I may find an opportunity to say more concerning them. Rapp -sold New Harmony in the year 1825, to the Englishman, Robert Owen, and -left there with his people on the 5th of May, to go up the Ohio to -Economy. Mr. Owen was originally engaged in manufactures, and possessed -a large cotton factory at New Lanark, on the Falls of Clyde, ten miles -from Glasgow in Scotland, where he had, by the adoption of a new system -of education and formation of character, changed a collection of one -thousand rude labourers into a community of industrious beings. His -system, and his ideas upon the situation of human society, as well as -the improvements that are capable of being made, he has divulged in a -series of essays, which are collected, and appear in print under the -name of a new view of society. They conclude with the project of a -constitution for a community formed on his system. - -Mr. Owen is an enemy to all sects, the spirit of which has generated so -much evil under the imposing name of religion. He allows each person -liberty to believe in what he may consider to be good; so that a pure -Deism is the peculiar religion of his adherents. On this account he was -very obnoxious to the prevailing sects in Great Britain, and accordingly -his system could not extend itself there. He was therefore induced to -turn his attention to the United States, and particularly to the western -part of the Union, where, as he says, there is less hypocrisy of -religion prevailing than to the east. He then purchased New Harmony from -Mr. Rapp, and commenced his establishment in the month of May last. As -he laid the foundation of it entirely on perfect equality and community -of property, many enthusiasts in these principles from various parts of -the Union joined themselves to him; and also a number of vagabonds and -lazy worthless persons, from all parts of the world, that would -willingly live well at the public expense, who had drank away the little -money, if they brought any at all, at the tavern, and who would not -work, but desired to say a great deal. Mr. Owen had gone to England on -account of business in the month of July, and during his absence, -a complete anarchy had been introduced into the new community. At the -end of October he arrived from England at New York on his return, gave -lectures there, in Philadelphia, and in Washington, upon his system, -made some proselytes in Philadelphia, and came back to New Harmony. He -lamented over his people, and brought the situation of anarchy in which -they had fallen before their eyes so plainly, with the consequences -resulting therefrom, that they invested him with dictatorial authority -for one year. - -In the eastern states there is a general dislike to him. It was thought -unadvised that he issued a proclamation to the Americans on his last -arrival in New York, in which he told them, that among many virtues they -possessed great faults, among which he alluded to an ill-directed -propensity to religious feelings, and proposed himself as their reformer -in this respect. I heard at that time unfavourable expressions from -persons in the highest public offices against him; and one of them gave -Mr. Owen to understand very plainly, that he considered his intellects -rather deranged.[II-16] In one family alone, where theory took place of -experimental knowledge, did I hear conversation turn to his advantage. - - [Footnote II-16: [This is, perhaps, the most charitable idea that - can be formed of the actions of such reformers, as well as of a - "lady" heretofore mentioned, who has unsexed herself, and become - so intoxicated with vanity, as enthusiastically to preach up a - "reformation" in favour of the promiscuous intercourse of sexes - and colours, the downfall of all religion, and the removal of all - restraints imposed by virtue and morality!]--TRANS.] - -After all this, I came with the utmost expectation to New Harmony, -curious to become acquainted with a man of such extraordinary -sentiments. In the tavern, I accosted a man very plainly dressed, about -fifty years of age, rather of low stature, who entered into a -conversation with me, concerning the situation of the place, and the -disordered state in which I would find every thing, where all was newly -established, &c. When I asked this man how long before Mr. Owen would be -there, he announced himself, to my no small surprize, as Mr. Owen, was -glad at my visit, and offered himself to show every thing, and explain -to me whatever remained without explanation. As the arrangement -calculated for Rapp's society was not adapted to his, of course many -alterations would naturally be made. All the log houses still standing -in the place, he intended to remove, and only brick and framed edifices -should be permitted to remain. Also all enclosures about particular -gardens, as well as all the enclosures within the place itself, he would -take away, and only allow the public highways leading through the -settlement to be enclosed. The whole should bear a resemblance to a -park, in which the separate houses should be scattered about. - -In the first place, Mr. Owen carried me to the quondam church of Rapp's -society; a simple wooden building, with a steeple of the same materials, -provided with a clock. This church was at present appropriated to -joiner's and shoemaker's shops, in which the boys are instructed in -these mechanic arts. - -Behind the church stands a large brick edifice, built in the form of a -cross, and furnished with a species of cupola, the purpose of which is -unknown. Rapp, they say, had dreamed three times that this building -should be erected, and therefore he had it done; but it is thought, and -I believe correctly, that he only did this to keep his society in -constant employment, so that they could have no leisure to reflect upon -their situation, and dependence upon him. His power over them actually -extended so far, that to prevent his society from too great an increase, -he forbid the husbands from associating with their wives. I also heard -here a report which I had already been apprised of in Germany, that he -had himself castrated a son who had transgressed this law, for the sake -of example, and that the son had died under the operation. Over one of -the entrances of this problematical edifice, stands the date of the year -1822, hewed in stone; under it is a gilt rose, and under this is placed -the inscription Micah 4. v. 8. The interior of the house forms a large -hall, in form of a cross, the ceiling is supported by wooden pillars. -Mr. Owen has devoted the hall to the purposes of dancing, music, and -meetings for philosophical discussions. He told me that he intended to -have the ends of the cross, both of the grand saloon as well as those of -the hall under the roof, divided off by partitions, so as to use them -for school-rooms, for a library, for a cabinet of natural history, of -physical objects, &c. - -Mr. Owen then conducted me to Rapp's former dwelling, a large, -well-built brick house, with two lightning rods. The man of God, it -appeared, took especial good care of himself; his house was by far the -best in the place, surrounded by a garden, with a flight of stone steps, -and the only one furnished with lightning rods. Mr. Owen, on the -contrary, contented himself with a small apartment in the same tavern -where I lodged. At present, the offices, and the residence of Mr. -M'Clure, the associate of Mr. Owen, are in Rapp's house.[II-17] - - [Footnote II-17: [It is understood that Mr. M'Clure has long since - given up all connexion with the New Harmony bubble.]--TRANS.] - -Mr. M'Clure is a man distinguished for learning, who has published a -geological chart of the United States. He told me that he was in Germany -in the year 1802, and also at Weimar, where he had become acquainted -with the literati residing there: I was introduced by him to a native of -Alsace, of the name of Neef, a rather aged man, who had the -superintendence of the boys. Mr. Owen's two eldest sons were also here -shown to me, pupils of Fellenberg, who is greatly respected. Afterwards -Mr. Owen made me acquainted with Mr. Lewis, secretary of the society, -from Virginia, and a relation of the great Washington. He was already -pretty far advanced in years, and appeared to have united himself to the -society from liberal principles, as far as I could judge from our short -conversation. Another acquaintance that I made, was with a Mr. Jennings, -from Philadelphia, a young man, who was educated as a clergyman, but had -quitted that profession to follow this course of life, and had united -himself to Mr. Owen. He intended, nevertheless, to leave this place -again, and return back to Philadelphia. Many other members have the same -design, and I can hardly believe that this society will have a long -duration.[II-18] Enthusiasm, which abandons its subjects but too soon, -as well as the itch for novelty, had contributed much to the formation -of this society. In spite of the principles of equality which they -recognise, it shocks the feelings of people of education, to live on the -same footing with every one indiscriminately, and eat with them at the -same table. - - [Footnote II-18: By late newspapers it appears, that the society - actually dissolved itself, in the beginning of the year 1827.] - -The society consisted, as I was informed, of about one thousand members; -at a distance of two miles are founded two new communities. Till a -general table shall be instituted, according to the fundamental -constitution of the society, the members are placed in four -boarding-houses, where they must live very frugally. Several of the most -turbulent, with an Irishman who wore a long beard, at their head, wished -to leave the society immediately to go to Mexico, there to settle -themselves, but where their subsistence will be procured with as much -difficulty. - -In the evening Mr. Owen conducted me to a concert in the non-descript -building. Most of the members of the society were present. The orchestra -was not numerous, it consisted at first only of one violin, one -violoncello, one clarionet and two flutes. Nevertheless the concert was -surprisingly good, especially as the musicians have not been together a -year. The clarionet player performed particularly well, and afterwards -let us hear him on the bugle. Several good male and female vocalists -then took a part, they sang among other things a trio accompanied by the -clarionet only. Declamation was interspersed among the musical -performances, Lord Byron's stanzas to his wife after their separation -were extremely well recited. Between the two parts of the concert the -music played a march, each gentleman gave a lady his arm, and a -promenade took place, resembling a Polonaise with pretty figures, -sometimes in two couples, sometimes in four; two ladies in the middle, -the gentlemen separated from the ladies, then again all together. The -concert closed with a lively cotillion. I was, on the whole, much -amused; and Mr. Huygens took an active share in the dancing. This -general evening amusement takes place often in the week; besides, on -Tuesday, there is a general ball. There is a particular costume adopted -for the society. That for the men consists of wide pantaloons buttoned -over a boy's jacket, made of light material, without a collar; that of -the women of a coat reaching to the knee and pantaloons, such as little -girls wear among us. These dresses are not universally adopted, but they -have a good appearance. An elderly French lady, who presides over the -department of young mothers, and the nursing of all the very small -children, stuck by my side during a large portion of the evening, and -tormented me with her philosophical views. All the men did not take a -share in the dance, i. e. the lower class, but read newspapers, which -were scattered over the side-tables. - -The public house in which we lived was conducted on account of the -society. General Evans was looked for, who was to keep the house; in the -mean time it was directed by the physician of the society, Dr. M'Namee, -from Vincennes. Among the public buildings I remarked two of which the -lower part was strongly built with rough stone, and provided with -loop-holes. The larger of these was the granary, and it was reasonably -thought that Rapp had this built as a defensive redoubt for his own -people. At the first period of his establishment in this country he not -only had the Indians, but also the rude people known under the general -title of backwoodsmen, who not only saw the establishment of such a -society with jealous eyes, which they knew would be wealthy in a short -time, but also entertained a grudge against Rapp's unnatural rules of -chastity. - -On the morning of the 14th of April, I strolled about the place to look -round me. I visited Mr. Neef, but found his wife only at home, a native -of Memmingen, in Swabia. Her husband was in the act of leading the boys -out to labour. Military exercises form a part of the instruction of the -children. I saw the boys divided into two ranks, and parted into -detachments marching to labour, and on the way they performed various -wheelings and evolutions. All the boys and girls have a very healthy -look, are cheerful and lively, and by no means bashful. The boys labour -in the field and garden, and were now occupied with new fencing. The -girls learn female employments; they were as little oppressed as the -boys with labour and teaching; these happy and interesting children were -much more employed in making their youth pass as pleasantly as possible. -Madam Neef showed the school-house, in which she dwelt, and in which the -places for sleeping were arranged for the boys. Each boy slept on a cot -frame, upon a straw bed. - -We went next to Rapp's distillery: it will be removed altogether. Mr. -Owen has forbidden distilling also, as well as the use of ardent -spirits. Notwithstanding this, the Irishmen here find opportunities of -getting whiskey and fuddling themselves from the flat boats that stop -here, &c. We saw also a dye-house and a mill set in motion by a -steam-engine of ten horse-power. The engine was old and not in good -order, Mr. Owen said however, he hoped to introduce steam-mills here in -time from England. From the mills we went to the vineyard, which was -enclosed and kept in very good order. I spoke to an old French -vine-dresser here. He assured me that Rapp's people had not understood -the art of making wine; that he would in time make more and much better -wine, than had been done heretofore. The wine stocks are imported from -the Cape of Good Hope, and the wine has an entirely singular and strange -taste, which reminds one of the common Spanish wines. - -We went again to the quondam church, or workshop for the boys, who are -intended for joiners and shoemakers. These boys sleep upon the floor -above the church in cribs, three in a row, and thus have their sleeping -place and place of instruction close together. We also saw the shops of -the shoemakers, tailors and saddlers, also the smiths, of which six were -under one roof, and the pottery, in which were two rather large -furnaces. A porcelain earth has been discovered on the banks of the -Mississippi, in the state of Illinois, not far from St. Louis. Two -experienced members of the society, went in that direction, to bring -some of the earth to try experiments with, in burning. The greater part -of the young girls, whom we chanced to meet at home, we found employed -in plaiting straw hats. I became acquainted with a Madam F----, a native -of St. Petersburg. She married an American merchant, settled there, and -had the misfortune to lose her husband three days after marriage. She -then joined her husband's family at Philadelphia, and as she was -somewhat eccentric and sentimental, quickly became enthusiastically -attached to Mr. Owen's system. She told me, however, in German, that she -found herself egregiously deceived; that the highly vaunted equality was -not altogether to her taste; that some of the society were too low, and -the table was below all criticism. The good lady appeared to be about to -run from one extreme to the other; for she added, that in the summer, -she would enter a Shaker establishment near Vincennes.[II-19] - - [Footnote II-19: [According to the report of some females, who - were induced to visit New Harmony, and remained there for some - time, any situation much above abject wretchedness, was preferable - to this vaunted terrestrial paradise.]--TRANS.] - -I renewed acquaintance here with Mr. Say, a distinguished naturalist -from Philadelphia, whom I had been introduced to, at the Wistar Party -there; unfortunately he had found himself embarrassed in his fortune, -and was obliged to come here as a friend of Mr. M'Clure. This gentleman -appeared quite comical in the costume of the society, before described, -with his hands full of hard lumps and blisters, occasioned by the -unusual labour he was obliged to undertake in the garden. - -In the evening I went to walk in the streets, and met with several of -the ladies of the society, who rested from the labours of the day. Madam -F---- was among them, whose complaints of disappointed expectations I -had listened to. I feared still more from all that I saw and heard, that -the society would have but a brief existence. I accompanied the ladies -to a dancing assembly, which was held in the kitchen of one of the -boarding-houses. I observed that this was only an hour of instruction to -the unpractised in dancing, and that there was some restraint on account -of my presence, from politeness I went away, and remained at home the -remainder of the evening. About ten o'clock, an alarm of fire was -suddenly raised. An old log building used as a wash-house was in flames, -immediately the fire-engine kept in a distinct house, was brought and -served by persons appointed to that duty. They threw the stream of water -through the many apertures of the log-house, and quickly put a stop to -the fire. In a quarter of an hour, all was over. Since the houses in the -place all stand separately, there is nothing to fear from the extension -of fire, unless in a strong wind. The houses, however, are all covered -with shingles. - -On the 15th of April, I went into the garden back of Rapp's house to see -a plate or block of stone, which is remarkable as it bears the -impression of two human feet. This piece of stone was hewed out of a -rock near St. Louis, and sold to Mr. Rapp. Schoolcraft speaks of it in -his travels, and I insert his remarks, as I have found them correct. -"The impressions are to all appearance those of a man standing upright, -the left foot a little forwards, the heels turned inwards. The distance -between the heels by an exact measurement was six and a quarter inches, -and thirteen and a half between the extremities of the great toes. By an -accurate examination, it however will be ascertained, that they are not -the impression of feet, accustomed to the use of European shoes, for the -toes are pressed out, and the foot is flat, as is observed in persons -who walk barefoot. The probability that they were caused by the pressure -of an individual, that belonged to an unknown race of men, ignorant of -the art of tanning hides, and that this took place in a much earlier age -than the traditions of the present Indians extend to, this probability I -say, is strengthened by the extraordinary size of the feet here given. -In another respect, the impressions are strikingly natural, since the -muscles of the feet are represented with the greatest exactness and -truth. This circumstance weakens very much the hypothesis, that they are -possibly evidences of the ancient sculpture of a race of men living in -the remote ages of this continent. Neither history nor tradition, gives -us the slightest information of such a people. For it must be kept in -mind, that we have no proof that the people who erected our surprising -western tumuli, ever had a knowledge of masonry, even much less of -sculpture, or that they had invented the chisel, the knife, or the axe, -those excepted made from porphyry, hornstone or obsidian. The medium -length of the human male foot can be taken at ten inches. The length of -the foot stamp here described, amounts to ten and a quarter inches, the -breadth measured over the toes, in a right angle with the first line is -four inches, but the greatest spread of the toes is four and a half -inches, which breadth diminishes at the heels to two and a half inches. -Directly before these impressions is a well inserted and deep mark, -similar to a scroll of which the greatest length is two feet seven -inches, and the greatest breadth twelve and a half inches. The rock -which contains these interesting traces, is a compact limestone of a -bluish-gray colour." - -This rock with the unknown impressions are remembered as long as the -country about St. Louis has been known, this table is hewn out of a -rock, and indeed out of a perpendicular wall of rock. - -The garden of Rapp's house was the usual flower-garden of a rich German -farmer. In it was a green-house, in which several large fig trees, an -orange, and lemon tree stood in the earth. Mr. Owen took me into one of -the newly-built houses, in which the married members of the society are -to dwell. It consisted of two stories, in each two chambers and two -alcoves, with the requisite ventilators. The cellar of the house is to -contain a heating apparatus, to heat the whole with warm air. When all -shall be thoroughly organized, the members will alternately have the -charge of heating the apparatus. Each family will have a chamber and an -alcove, which will be sufficient, as the little children will be in a -nursery, and the larger at school. They will not require kitchens, as -all are to eat in common. The unmarried women will live together, as -will also the unmarried men, in the manner of the Moravian brethren. - -I had an ample conversation with Mr. Owen, relating to his system, and -his expectations. He looks forward to nothing less than to remodel the -world entirely; to root out all crime; to abolish all punishments; to -create similar views and similar wants, and in this manner to avoid all -dissension and warfare. When his system of education shall be brought -into connection with the great progress made by mechanics, and which is -daily increasing, every man can then, as he thought, provide his smaller -necessaries for himself, and trade would cease entirely! I expressed a -doubt of the practicability of his system in Europe, and even in the -United States. He was too unalterably convinced of the results, to admit -the slightest room for doubt. It grieved me to see that Mr. Owen should -allow himself to be so infatuated by his passion for universal -improvement, as to believe and to say that he is about to reform the -whole world; and yet that almost every member of his society, with whom -I have conversed apart, acknowledged that he was deceived in his -expectations, and expressed their opinion that Mr. Owen had commenced on -too grand a scale, and had admitted too many members, without the -requisite selection! The territory of the society may contain twenty -five thousand acres. The sum of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars -was paid to Rapp for this purchase, and for that consideration he also -left both his cattle, and a considerable flock of sheep behind. - -I went with the elder Doctor M'Namee, to the two new established -communities, one of which is called No. 2, or Macluria; the other lately -founded, No. 3. No. 2, lies two miles distant from New Harmony, at the -entrance of the forest, which will be cleared to make the land fit for -cultivation, and consists of nine log houses, first tenanted about four -weeks since, by about eighty persons. They are mostly backwoodsmen with -their families, who have separated themselves from the community No. 1, -in New Harmony, because _no religion_ is acknowledged there, and these -people wish to hold their prayer meetings undisturbed. The fields in the -neighbourhood of this community were of course very new. The community -No. 3, consisted of English country people, who formed a new -association, as the mixture, or perhaps the cosmopolitism of New Harmony -did not suit them; they left the colony planted by Mr. Birkbeck, at -English Prairie, about twenty miles hence, on the right bank of the -Wabash, after the unfortunate death of that gentleman,[II-20] and came -here. This is a proof that there are two evils that strike at the root -of the young societies; one is a sectarian or intolerant spirit; the -other, national prejudice. No. 3, is to be built on a very pretty -eminence, as yet there is only a frame building for three families -begun. - - [Footnote II-20: He was drowned in the Wabash, which he attempted - to swim over on horseback.] - -After we had returned to New Harmony, I went to the orchard on the Mount -Vernon road to walk, and beheld, to my great concern, what ravages the -frost had committed on the fruit blossoms, the vines must have been -completely killed. The orchards planted by Rapp and his society are -large and very handsome, containing mostly apple and peach trees, also -some pear and cherry trees. One of the gardens is exclusively devoted to -flowers, where, in Rapp's time, a labyrinth was constructed of beech -tree hedges and flowers, in the middle of which stood a pavilion, -covered with the tops of trees. - -I afterwards visited Mr. Neef, who is still full of the maxims and -principles of the French revolution; captivated with the system of -equality; talks of the emancipation of the negroes, and openly proclaims -himself an ATHEIST. Such people stand by themselves, and fortunately are -so very few in number, that they can do little or no injury. - -In the evening there was a general meeting in the large hall, it opened -with music. Then one of the members, an English architect of talent, who -came to the United States with Mr. Owen, whose confidence he appeared to -possess, and was here at the head of the arranging and architectural -department, read some extracts from the newspapers, upon which Mr. Owen -made a very good commentary; for example, upon the extension and -improvement of steam-engines, upon their adaptation to navigation, and -the advantages resulting therefrom. He lost himself, however, in his -theories, when he expatiated on an article which related to the -experiments which had been made with Perkins's steam-gun. During these -lectures, I made my observations on the much vaunted equality, as some -tatterdemalions stretched themselves on the platform close by Mr. Owen. -The better educated members kept themselves together, and took no notice -of the others. I remarked also, that the members belonging to the higher -class of society had put on the new costume, and made a party by -themselves. After the lecture the band played a march, each gentleman -took a lady, and marched with her round the room. Lastly, a cotillion -was danced: the ladies were then escorted home, and each retired to his -own quarters. - -I went early on the following morning, (Sunday,) to the assembly room. -The meeting was opened by music. After this Mr. Owen stated a -proposition, in the discussion of which he spoke of the advances made by -the society, and of the location of a new community at Valley Forge, in -Pennsylvania, and another in the state of New York. A classification of -the members was spoken of afterwards. They were separated into three -classes, first, of such as undertook to be security for the sums due Mr. -Owen and Mr. M'Clure, (that is, for the amount paid to Rapp, and so -expended as a pledge to be redeemed by the society,) and who, if -desirous to leave the society, must give six months previous notice; -secondly, of such as after a notice of fourteen days can depart; and, -lastly of those who are received only on trial. - -After this meeting, I paid Mr. M'Clure a visit, and received from him -the French papers. Mr. M'Clure is old, childless, was never married, and -intends, as is reported, to leave his property to the society. -Afterwards I went with Mr. Owen, and some ladies of the society, to walk -to the cut-off, as it is called, of the Wabash, where this river has -formed a new channel, and an island, which contains more than a hundred -acres of the best land; at present, however, inundated by water. There -is here a substantial grist-mill, erected by Rapp, which was said to -contain a very good set of machinery, but where we could not reach it on -account of the water. We went some distance along the river, and then -returned through the woods over the hills, which, as it was rather warm, -and we could discover no pathway, was very laborious to the ladies, who -were uncommonly alarmed at the different snakes we chanced to meet. Most -of the serpent species here are harmless, and the children catch them -for playthings. The poisonous snakes harbouring about here, are -rattlesnakes and copperheads; these, however, diminish rapidly in -numbers, for it is a common observation, that the poisonous serpents, -like the Indians and bears, fly before civilization. The rattlesnakes -have a powerful enemy in the numerous hogs, belonging to the settlers, -running about the woods, which are very well skilled in catching them by -the neck and devouring them. - -In the evening I paid visits to some ladies, and witnessed philosophy -and the love of equality put to the severest trial with one of them. She -is named Virginia, from Philadelphia; is very young and pretty, was -delicately brought up, and appears to have taken refuge here on account -of an unhappy attachment. While she was singing and playing very well on -the piano forte, she was told that the milking of the cows was her duty, -and that they were waiting unmilked. Almost in tears, she betook herself -to this servile employment, deprecating the new social system, and its -so much prized equality. - -After the cows were milked, in doing which the poor girl was trod on by -one, and daubed by another, I joined an aquatic party with the young -ladies and some young philosophers, in a very good boat upon the -inundated meadows of the Wabash. The evening was beautiful moonlight, -and the air very mild; the beautiful Miss Virginia forgot her _stable_ -sufferings, and regaled us with her sweet voice. Somewhat later we -collected together in the house No. 2, appointed for a school-house, -where all the young ladies and gentlemen of _quality_ assembled. In -spite of the equality so much recommended, this class of persons will -not mix with the common sort, and I believe that all the well brought up -members are disgusted, and will soon abandon the society. We amused -ourselves exceedingly during the whole remainder of the evening, dancing -cotillions, reels and waltzes, and with such animation as rendered it -quite lively. New figures had been introduced among the cotillions, -among which is one called the _new social system_. Several of the ladies -made objections to dancing on Sunday; we thought however, that in this -sanctuary of philosophy, such prejudices should be utterly discarded, -and our arguments, as well as the inclination of the ladies, gained the -victory. - -On the 17th April, a violent storm arose, which collected such clouds of -dust together that it was hardly possible to remain in the streets, and -I remained at home almost all day. I received a visit from a Mr. Von -Schott. This person, a Wurtemburger by birth, and brother of lady Von -Mareuil, in Washington, has settled himself seven or eight miles from -New Harmony, and lives a real hermit's life, without a servant or -assistant of any kind. He was formerly an officer in the Wurtemburg -cavalry, took his discharge, and went, from pure enthusiasm, and -overwrought fanaticism, to Greece, to defend their rights. As he there -discovered himself to be deceived in his anticipations, he returned to -his native country, and delivered himself up to religious superstition. -To extricate himself, in his opinion, from this world plunged in -wretchedness, he accompanied his sister to the United States, came to -Indiana, bought a piece of land from Rapp, by whom he asserted he was -imposed upon, and had difficulties to undergo, since he knew nothing of -agriculture. He lived in this manner in the midst of the forest with a -solitary horse. A cruel accident had befallen him the week before, his -stable with his trusty horse was burnt. He appeared to be a -well-informed man, and spoke well and rationally, only when he touched -upon religious topics, his mind appeared to be somewhat deranged. He -declared that he supported all possible privations with the greatest -patience, only he felt the want of intercourse with a friend in his -solitude. - -To-day two companies of the New Harmony militia paraded, with drums -beating, and exercised morning and afternoon. They were all in uniform, -well armed, and presented an imposing front. - -I was invited to dinner in the house, No. 4. Some gentlemen had been out -hunting, and had brought home a wild turkey, which must be consumed. -This turkey formed the whole dinner. Upon the whole I cannot complain -either of an overloaded stomach, or a head-ache from the wine affecting -it, in any way. The living was frugal in the strictest sense, and in -nowise pleased the elegant ladies with whom I dined. In the evening I -visited Mr. M'Clure and Madam Fretageot, living in the same house. She -is a Frenchwoman, who formerly kept a boarding-school in Philadelphia, -and is called _mother_ by all the young girls here. The handsomest and -most polished of the female world here, Miss Lucia Saistare and Miss -Virginia, were under her care. The cows were milked this evening when I -came in, and therefore we could hear their performance on the piano -forte, and their charming voices in peace and quiet. Later in the -evening we went to the kitchen of No. 3, where there was a ball. The -young ladies of the better class kept themselves in a corner under Madam -Fretageot's protection, and formed a little aristocratical club. To -prevent all possible partialities, the gentlemen as well as the ladies, -drew numbers for the cotillions, and thus apportioned them equitably. -Our young ladies turned up their noses apart at the democratic dancers, -who often in this way fell to their lot. Although every one was pleased -upon the whole, yet they separated at ten o'clock, as it is necessary to -rise early here. I accompanied Madam Fretageot and her two pupils home, -and passed some time in conversation with Mr. M'Clure on his travels in -Europe, which were undertaken with mineralogical views. The architect, -Mr. Whitwell, besides showed me to-day the plan of this establishment. -I admired particularly the judicious and economical arrangements for -warming and ventilating the buildings, as well as the kitchens and -laundries. It would indeed be a desirable thing could a building on this -plan once be completed, and Mr. Owen hopes that the whole of New Harmony -will thus be arranged. - -On the following day I received a visit from one of the German patriots -who had entered the society, of the name of Schmidt, who wished to have -been considered as first lieutenant in the Prussian artillery, at -Erfurt. He appeared to have engaged in one of the political conspiracies -there, and to have deserted. Mr. Owen brought him from England last -autumn as a servant. He was now a member of the society, and had charge -of the cattle. His fine visions of freedom seemed to be very much -lowered, for he presented himself to me, and his father to Mr. Huygens, -to be employed as servants. - -Towards evening, an Englishman, a friend of Mr. Owen, Mr. Applegarth, -arrived, who had presided over the school in New Lanark, and was to -organize one here in all probability. After dinner I went to walk with -him in the vineyard and woods. We conversed much concerning the new -system, and the consequences which he had reason to expect would result, -&c. and we discovered amongst other things, that Mr. Owen must have -conceived the rough features of his general system from considering -forced services or statutory labour; for the labour imposed upon persons -for which they receive no compensation, would apply and operate much -more upon them for their lodging, clothing, food, the education and care -of their children, &c. so that they would consider their labour in the -light of a corvée. We observed several labourers employed in loading -bricks upon a cart, and they performed this so tedious and disagreeable -task, as a statutory labour imposed on them by circumstances, and this -observation led us to the above reflection. I afterwards visited Mr. -M'Clure, and entertained myself for an hour with the instructive -conversation of this interesting old gentleman. Madam Fretageot, who -appears to have considerable influence over Mr. M'Clure, took an -animated share in our discourse. In the evening there was a ball in the -large assembly room, at which most of the members were present. It -lasted only until ten o'clock, in dancing cotillions, and closed with a -grand promenade, as before described. There was a particular place -marked off by benches for the children to dance in, in the centre of the -hall, where they could gambol about without running between the legs of -the grown persons. - -On the 19th of April, a steam-boat came down the Wabash, bound for -Louisville on the Ohio. It stopt opposite Harmony, and sent a boat -through the overflow of water to receive passengers. I was at first -disposed to embrace the opportunity of leaving this place, but as I -heard that the boat was none of the best, I determined rather to remain -and go by land to Mount Vernon, to wait for a better steam-boat there. -We took a walk to the community, No. 3. The work on the house had made -but little progress; we found but one workman there, and he was sleeping -quite at his ease. This circumstance recalled the observation before -mentioned, concerning gratis-labour, to my mind. We advanced beyond into -the woods, commencing behind No. 3: there was still little verdure to be -seen. - -On the succeeding day, I intended to leave New Harmony early; but as it -was impossible to procure a carriage, I was obliged to content myself. -I walked to the community No. 2, or Macluria, and farther into the -woods. They were employed in hewing down trees to build log houses. The -wood used in the brick and frame houses here is of the tulip tree, which -is abundant, worked easily, and lasts long. After dinner I walked with -Mr. Owen and Madam Fretageot, to community No. 3. There a new vegetable -garden was opened; farther on they were employed in preparing a field in -which Indian corn was to be sown. This answers the best purpose here, -as the soil is too rich for wheat; the stalks grow too long, the heads -contain too few grains, and the stalks on account of their length soon -break down, so that the crop is not very productive. The chief complaint -here is on account of the too great luxuriancy of the soil. The trees -are all very large, shoot up quickly to a great height, but have so few, -and such weak roots, that they are easily prostrated by a violent storm; -they also rot very easily, and I met with a great number of hollow -trees, in proportion. I saw them sow maize or Indian corn, for the first -time. There were furrows drawn diagonally across the field with the -plough, each at a distance of two feet from the other; then other -furrows at the same distance apart, at right angles with the first. -A person goes behind the plough with a bag of corn, and in each crossing -of the furrows he drops six grains. Another person with a shovel -follows, and covers these grains with earth. When the young plants are -half a foot high, they are ploughed between and the earth thrown up on -both sides of the plants; and when they are two feet high this operation -is repeated, to give them more firmness and to destroy the weeds. There -is a want of experienced farmers here; the furrows were badly made, and -the whole was attended to rather too much _en amateur_. - -After we returned to Madam Fretageot's, Mr. Owen showed me two -interesting objects of his invention; one of them consisted of cubes of -different sizes, representing the different classes of the British -population in the year 1811, and showed what a powerful burden rested on -the labouring class, and how desirable an equal division of property -would be in that kingdom. The other was a plate, according to which, as -Mr. Owen asserted, each child could be shown his capabilities, and upon -which, after a mature self-examination, he can himself discover what -progress he has made. The plate has this superscription: scale of human -faculties and qualities at birth. It has ten scales with the following -titles: from the left to the right, self-attachment; affections; -judgment; imagination; memory; reflection; perception; excitability; -courage; strength. Each scale is divided into one hundred parts, which -are marked from five to five. A slide that can be moved up or down, -shows the measure of the qualities therein specified each one possesses, -or believes himself to possess. - -I add but a few remarks more. Mr. Owen considers it as an absurdity to -promise never-ending love on marriage. For this reason he has introduced -the civil contract of marriage, after the manner of the Quakers, and the -French laws into his community, and declares that the bond of matrimony -is in no way indissoluble. The children indeed, cause no impediment in -case of a separation, for they belong to the community from their second -year, and are all brought up together. - -Mr. M'Clure has shown himself a great adherent of the Pestalozzian -system of education. He had cultivated Pestalozzi's acquaintance while -upon his travels, and upon this recommendation brought Mr. Neef with him -to Philadelphia, to carry this system into operation. At first it -appeared to succeed perfectly, soon however, Mr. Neef found so many -opposers, apparently on account of his anti-religious principles, that -he gave up the business, and settled himself on a farm in the woods of -Kentucky. He had just abandoned the farm to take the head of a -boarding-school, which Mr. M'Clure intended to establish in New Harmony. -Mr. Jennings, formerly mentioned, was likewise to co-operate in this -school; his reserved and haughty character was ill suited for such a -situation, and Messrs. Owen and M'Clure willingly consented to his -withdrawing, as he would have done the boarding-school more injury, from -the bad reputation in which he stood, than he could have assisted it by -his acquirements. An Englishman by birth, he was brought up for a -military life; this he had forsaken to devote himself to clerical -pursuits, had arrived in the United States as a Universalist preacher, -and had been received with much attention in that capacity in -Cincinnati, till he abandoned himself with enthusiasm to the _new social -system_, and made himself openly and publicly known as an -ATHEIST.[II-21] - - [Footnote II-21: [He is at this time advertising a boarding-school - in the Western country, on his own account, which is to be under - his immediate superintendence!]--TRANS.] - -I passed the evening with the amiable Mr. M'Clure, and Madam Fretageot, -and became acquainted through them, with a French artist, Mons. Lesueur, -calling himself uncle of Miss Virginia, as also a Dutch physician from -Herzogenbusch, Dr. Troost, an eminent naturalist. Both are members of -the community, and have just arrived from a scientific pedestrian tour -to Illinois and the southern part of Missouri, where they have examined -the iron, and particularly the lead-mine works, as well as the -peculiarities of the different mountains. Mr. Lesueur has besides -discovered several species of fish, as yet undescribed. He was there too -early in the season to catch many snakes. Both gentlemen had together -collected thirteen chests of natural curiosities, which are expected -here immediately. Mr. Lesueur accompanied the naturalist Perron, as -draftsman in his tour to New South Wales, under Captain Baudin, and -possessed all the illuminated designs of the animals which were -discovered for the first time on this voyage, upon vellum. This -collection is unique of its kind, either as regards the interest of the -objects represented, or in respect to their execution; and I account -myself fortunate to have seen them through Mr. Lesueur's politeness. He -showed me also the sketches he made while on his last pedestrian tour, -as well as those during the voyage of several members of the society to -Mount Vernon, down the Ohio from Pittsburgh. On this voyage, the society -had many difficulties to contend with, and were obliged often to cut a -path for the boat through the ice. The sketches exhibit the originality -of talent of the artist. He had come with Mr. M'Clure in 1815, from -France to Philadelphia, where he devoted himself to the arts and -sciences. Whether he will remain long in this society or not, I cannot -venture to decide.[II-22] - - [Footnote II-22: [He has left it some time since, as well as Dr. - Troost.]--TRANS.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - _Travels to Louisville, and Stay in that City._ - - -On the 21st of April, we left New Harmony, after taking a cordial leave -of Mr. Owen, and availed ourselves of the mail stage, which leaves here -once a week for Mount Vernon, to make this passage. Besides our company, -there was only a single traveller in the stage, a Mr. Riley, from -Cincinnati, and a native of Ireland. One mile from New Harmony, we were -forced to alight from the carriage, as the horses would not draw us up a -steep hill. One-half mile farther, we got out again on account of a -similar dilemma, and we had hardly done so, when it was overturned by -the unskilfulness of the driver. We unloaded our baggage, left it under -the care of Böttner, my servant, permitted the driver to his chagrin and -mortification to go on alone, and returned back on foot to New Harmony, -to look about for another method of conveyance. I paid a visit to -Messrs. M'Clure, Lesueur, &c. They told me that about ten o'clock a cart -under the direction of a Mr. Johnson would leave this place for Mount -Vernon, in which our baggage would find a place. As to our own -conveyance, I saw plainly that it would be the wiser plan to confide -mine to my own trustworthy legs. I assumed therefore the pilgrim's -staff, left my slower moving travelling companions something behind, and -accomplished the sixteen miles to Mount Vernon, over a very hilly road, -in five hours. - -I did not pass through Springfield, saw only two solitary log-houses, -and encountered but few people. The herbage had advanced very much -during a week; many trees were in blossom, and the young green leaves, -particularly those of the tulip trees, produced a very pleasing effect. -I passed by many sugar-maples, which were perforated, to draw the sugar -juice from them. When the trees are completely in leaf, the natural -scenery of these forests, of which the ground is very hilly, must be -extremely beautiful, especially to the eyes of a northern European, who -is not accustomed to the grandeur of the colossal sycamores, tulip trees -and maples. In noticing these trees, I may add the remark that Mr. Rapp -had planted the Lombardy poplar in the streets of New Harmony; that -these poplars had succeeded very well at first, but when their roots -struck a stratum of reddish sand lying under the good fertile soil, they -died. Mr. Rapp then substituted mulberry trees, which have thriven well, -and Mr. Owen has it in design, to make an experiment in raising -silk-worms. - -I reached Mount Vernon, tolerably fatigued, about three o'clock, P. M. -I met Dr. Clark again. Mr. Huygens and Mr. Riley made their appearance -after some time. Towards evening the expected cart arrived, but without -Böttner and my baggage. The carter said in his own excuse, that they had -given him so much freight in New Harmony, that his horses could hardly -draw it, and that there was no room left for my effects. After having -made a survey of the localities in person, I was obliged to admit the -cogency of his reasons, in spite of my vexation; and of course to find a -remedy in patience. - -In this state of affairs, I solaced myself with Major Dunn's society. -He and his countryman Riley, belonged to the better class of Irish, and -possessed a good deal of shrewdness, so that the time passed very -pleasantly. In the evening we went to the court-house, to hear a -Presbyterian preacher, travelling from the eastern states. He was quite -a young man, of the name of Stewart, whom I had met in New Harmony; -he had, however, only looked about, without announcing himself as a -clergyman, probably from his knowing the anti-religious opinions -prevailing there. In the little new settled places of the western -states, they do not build churches before houses, as is the practice in -the north-eastern section, but a dwelling and clearing of land is their -first object. Nevertheless, divine service is not lacking; for many -clergymen, who are not located, seek after a situation; in so doing are -accustomed to preach, where they can be heard. In most of the public -houses, and ferry-boats, no pay is required from these clergymen, and -thus they can take pretty long journies, the descriptions of which are -often published, at a very cheap rate. From the want of a church in -Mount Vernon, the meeting was held in the court-house. It was a -temporary log-house, which formed but one room. The chimney fire, and -two tallow candles formed the whole illumination of it, and the seats -were constructed of some blocks and boards, upon which upwards of twenty -people sat. The singing was conducted by a couple of old folks, with -rather discordant voices. The preacher then rose, and delivered us a -sermon. I could not follow his discourse well, and was very much -fatigued by my day's walk. In his prayer, however, the minister alluded -to those who despise the word of the Lord, and prayed for their -conviction and conversion. This hint was evidently aimed at the -community in New Harmony and the new social system. In the sermon there -was no such allusion. Probably the discourse was one of those, which he -knew by heart; which he delivered in various places, and admitted of no -interpolations. The service lasted till ten o'clock at night. - -Unluckily for me, my port-folio also remained behind among my other -baggage. I suffered therefore, the whole forenoon of the next day the -most excessive tedium, and was obliged to remain in noble idleness. -I went to walk in the woods, gaped about at the pretty flowers, and the -amazing variety of butterflies; came back, seated myself in Mr. Dunn's -store, and viewed the steam-boats going down the river. At length in the -afternoon, Böttner arrived, with my baggage in a one-horse cart, -splashed all over with mud, as he had been obliged to lead the restive -horse all the way by the bridle. The poor fellow bivouacked in the woods -yesterday, from one o'clock in the morning till four in the evening, -when by chance the shepherds of New Harmony passed by, and gave Mr. Owen -an account of Böttner's situation, upon which old Dr. M'Namee had come -out with his one-horse vehicle, and brought back the baggage and its -guard. By Mr. Owen's kindness, the cart was on this day sent on, with my -effects. - -Now my earnest desire was to get away as quickly as possible. To be -sure, the splendid view of the Ohio and its banks by the light of the -moon, regaled me in the evening; but the residence in this place was too -inhospitable and uninteresting; besides I suffered the whole afternoon -and evening with tooth-ache, and symptoms of fever. But how were we to -get away? During the night a steam-boat passed, going up the river, but -she kept to the left bank where the deepest water was, and took no -notice of Mount Vernon. About nine o'clock on the 23d of April, another -steam-boat, the General Wayne, came up, bound in the same direction. -A flag was hoisted, to give notice that passengers wished to come on -board, we waved our handkerchiefs, but the vessel did not regard us, and -passed on. To kill time, I went with Mr. Riley to Major Dunn's store, -where we told stories about steam-boats to keep off ennui as well as we -could, but in vain. In the evening I heard much concerning Rapp's -society, from a German mechanic, who had belonged to it, and who had -left it as he said, because Rapp refused to let him have the inheritance -of his father-in-law. We heard psalmody in the court-house, for the -religious inhabitants of the place, mostly methodists, hold Sunday -evening prayer meetings without a clergyman. The day was upon the whole -quite warm, and towards evening we had to contend with numbers of -mosquetoes. To prevent in some measure their coming from the woods, -where they harboured, fires were kindled about the place, and likewise -before the houses. The situation here must be an unhealthy one, for not -only was I annoyed during the night with head-ache and fever, but -Messrs. Huygens, Riley, and Johnson, complained of being unwell. With -the exception of some miserable, filthy lodgings in Canada, I do not -recollect in any part of the United States, even among the Creek -Indians, to have found myself so wretchedly situated in every respect, -as here. The food, furnished in small quantity as it was, was hardly fit -to be eaten; the only beverage was water, which it was necessary to mix -with ordinary whiskey; the beds very bad; and the whole house in a state -of the most revolting filthiness. - -On the morning of the 24th of April, came the hour of our deliverance. -The steam-boat General Neville came up the river after seven o'clock. -We dispatched a boat to tell them that several _cabin passengers_ waited -for them in Mount Vernon. Immediately the vessel steered for our shore, -and took us in. - -We were extremely rejoiced at our escape from this disagreeable place. -The boat had come from St. Louis, and was bound for Louisville. She was -but small, containing sixteen births in her cabin, and had a -high-pressure engine. Luckily, however, we found but three cabin -passengers on board. We started immediately, and the banks of the river -here and there low and subject to inundation, gratified us very much by -the fresh green of the trees. We passed by some considerable islands. -One of them, Diamond Island, is about three miles and a half long and -above a mile broad, and must contain several thousand acres of excellent -land. Afterwards we saw upon the left bank, here pretty high, the little -town of Henderson, in Kentucky. Eleven miles and a half higher, we saw -Evansville upon an eminence on the right shore, still an inconsiderable -place, but busy; it being the principal place in the county of -Vandeburg, in the state of Indiana, lying in the neighbourhood of a body -of fertile land, and is a convenient landing place for emigrants, who go -to the Wabash country. Upon the same shore are seen several dwellings -upon the fresh turf, shaded by high green trees. Close below Evansville, -a small river called Big Pigeon creek falls into the Ohio. In its mouth -we saw several flat boats, with apparatus similar to pile-driving -machines. These vessels belong to a contractor, who has entered into an -engagement with the government, to make the Ohio free and clear of the -snags and sawyers lying in its current. This work was discharged in a -negligent manner, and the officer to whom the superintendence was -committed, is censured for having suffered himself to be imposed upon. -I remembered having seen models in the patent-office at Washington, of -machines which were intended to effect this purpose. Seven miles and a -half higher up, Green river unites itself to the Ohio on the left bank. -Of this the Western Navigator says: "that it is a considerable river in -Kentucky, navigable about two hundred miles, and rises in Lincoln -county." On board our boat we did not find ourselves comfortable, either -in respect to lodging, or the table. All was small and confined, and in -the evening we were much annoyed by the mosquetoes. My mosqueto bar, -purchased in New Orleans, assisted me very much as a defence during the -night. - -During the night, we stopped several times to take in wood, and once to -repair the engine. An overhanging tree, which we approached too nearly, -gave us a powerful blow, and did much damage to the upper part of the -vessel. I had no state room, and therefore obtained no sleep during the -constant uproar. The banks became constantly higher, and more -picturesque in their appearance. They were frequently rocky: in several -rocks we observed cavities, which with the houses built in front of -them, produced a pleasing effect. Upon the right bank, was a little -place called Troy; several settlements, composed of frame houses, -instead of logs. Towards evening we saw upon the left bank, the mouth of -a little stream, Sinking creek. Upon the right shore of this creek, is a -group of houses called Rome, and on the left a little place, named -Stevensport; both places are united by a wooden bridge, resting upon one -high pier. I spent nearly the whole day on deck, to regale myself with -the beautiful landscapes surrounding us. Between several turns of the -river the country is so shut in, that one would suppose himself sailing -on a lake. The agreeable sensations caused by the beautiful country, and -the mild spring temperature which surrounded me, upon the whole -compensated for many of our privations. We indeed were in want of every -thing but absolute necessaries. I met an acquaintance indeed; one of our -fellow travellers who had formerly been a clerk of the English North -West Company, and had remained three years at the posts of the company -in the Rocky Mountains, and on the Columbia river; but this person had -acquired so many of the habits of the savages, that his company was in -no wise an acquisition. I was also, as well as all the other gentlemen -who had been in that unlucky Mount Vernon, tormented with constant pains -in the limbs, and our coarse food was so bad, that it was hardly -possible to consume it. There was neither wine nor beer on board, nor -any acids, so that water and whiskey, were the beverages to which we -were reduced. For many years I had never undergone such gastronomic -privations, as in the western parts of America. The Ohio appears to -contain many good and well tasted fish, but it seems that the people -here prefer the eternal hog meat, and that mostly salted, to every thing -else, for until now I had seen no fish in these regions, at least none -procured for eating. In the night, we advanced on our voyage without -stop or accident. - -On the morning of the 26th of April, we saw the mouth of Salt river, -which, as the Western Navigator says, is a considerable river of -Kentucky, about one hundred and thirty yards wide at its mouth, and -navigable one hundred and fifty miles. Twenty miles above this, the -little town of New Albany lies on the right bank, which promises to be a -flourishing place. It has a factory of steam-engines, which finds good -employment here. On the bank, a newly-built steam-boat was lying, -waiting for her engine. These engines must be built very strong, -proportionably too powerful for the tonnage of the vessel, on account of -the stiffness of the current. They of consequence suffer a violent shock -from it, and can only be used about three years. An island in the river -divides it into two narrow channels, in which there are rapid currents. -Above the island is the foot of the Falls of Ohio. At the present high -stage of water, the descent does not strike the eye, and vessels are -able to pass up or down the river over the falls. Ours, which went no -farther up, stopped on the left bank at Shippingport, opposite New -Albany, two miles below Louisville. - -Shippingport, is an insignificant place, which is supported by the -lading and unlading of vessels. We found several hackney coaches, which -carried us and our baggage by land to Louisville, where we took up our -abode in a large and respectable inn, called Washington Hall, kept by a -Mr. Allen. The Western Navigator has the following remarks upon this -neighbourhood: "The rapids of the Ohio are, in a natural as well as a -political regard, a point well deserving of attention. In low states of -the water, they are the termination of navigation by steam-boats, and -the last place in the descent of the Ohio, where any considerable -impediment occurs in its course. A number of infant towns have already -sprung up on both shores of the Ohio, in the neighbourhood of this -point, Jefferson, Clarksburg, and New Albany, in Indiana; Louisville, -Shippingport, and Portland, in Kentucky. Among these is Louisville, the -principal, with a population of three thousand souls; while new Albany -contains about one thousand, Shippingport six hundred, and -Jeffersonville five hundred inhabitants; all these are thriving -situations. Inclusive of the towns and neighbourhood, there is a -population of ten thousand people in this vicinity. In the year 1810, -Louisville contained only thirteen hundred and fifty-seven inhabitants; -it exceeds beyond a doubt its present estimate of five thousand, and -will still increase. It is the seat of justice for Jefferson county, -Kentucky, contains a prison, court-house, and the other essential -buildings, besides a theatre, three banks, of which one is a branch of -the United States Bank, a market, several places of worship, and three -printing-offices. Louisville lies in 38° 18' north latitude, and 5° 42' -west longitude from Washington." - -Louisville, at least the main street of it, running parallel with the -Ohio, has a good appearance. This street is rather broad, paved, and -provided with foot-walks; it contains brick buildings and several -considerable stores. In our hotel, I renewed my acquaintance with Major -Davenport, of the sixth regiment of infantry, whom, together with his -lady, I had known in Washington, at General Brown's, and who is here on -recruiting duty. It fell out luckily enough, that the post-master here, -Mr. Gray, had just married his daughter, and in compliment to her gave a -splendid party, to which I received an invitation. I repaired to it with -Major Davenport, and found an extremely numerous, and, contrary to my -expectations, even an elegant society. It was a real English rout, so -full that many of the guests were obliged to remain on the steps. I was -introduced to most of the ladies and gentlemen, was forced to talk a -good deal, and found myself very much annoyed by the heat prevailing in -the rooms. About eleven o'clock, I reached home heartily fatigued. - -In former years, when the state of Kentucky was an integral part of -Virginia, Louisville consisted of a stockade, built as a protection -against the hostile Indian tribes, who then still inhabited the banks of -the Ohio. It received its name as a mark of respect for the unfortunate -King, Louis XVI. This is attributable to the Canadian traders, who -established this post to secure their trade. By degrees white settlers -joined them, and thus the town commenced, which at first suffered much -from the Indians. It is five hundred and eighty miles distant from -Pittsburgh, one hundred and thirty-one from Cincinnati, and thirteen -hundred and forty-nine from New Orleans. I took a walk with Major -Davenport through the town, and to the new canal. It consists of three -streets running parallel with the Ohio, of which only the first or front -one is built out completely and paved; and of several cross streets -which cut the former at right angles. It has several churches, tolerably -well built; a new one was began, but on rather too large a scale. The -pious funds were exhausted; therefore a lodge of freemasons undertook -the finishing of this grand house, and kept it for their own use. The -canal is destined to light vessels over the Ohio, when they cannot pass -the falls on account of low water, and are obliged to discharge their -cargo. It is apprehended however, that the money invested in the canal -will not yield a great interest, as the time of service, for which the -canal is required does not extend beyond three months. During six months -of the year the Ohio is so low, that not a solitary boat can navigate -it, and when it rises, it becomes so high, that the rocks which produce -the rapids are covered, so that vessels can go up and down without -danger. The labour on the canal has been commenced about six weeks. The -banks in the neighbourhood of the canal are high, and present a -beautiful prospect over the rapids, and the adjacent region, which is -well cultivated and bounded by woody hills. - -A second walk with Major Davenport, was directed to the north side of -the town, where several respectable country houses are situated, all -built of brick; and then to a handsome wood, through which a causeway -runs, which is used by the inhabitants as a pleasure walk. The wood -contains very handsome beech trees, sugar maples, sycamores and locust -trees, also different species of nut-bearing trees. - -The state of Kentucky is involved at this period in considerable -confusion. A son of Governor Desha, was arrested on a charge of having -robbed and murdered a traveller the year before; was tried and found -guilty by two different juries. For the purpose of screening his son, -as was reported, the governor had changed the whole court, and filled it -anew with his own creatures. There was a prodigious excitement through -the state at this arbitrary stroke of authority. It was torn by parties; -I was assured that political struggles, often terminating in sanguinary -conflicts, were the order of the day; nay, that this division had -already given occasion to several assassinations. It is said to be -almost as dangerous to speak upon the political relations of the state, -as to converse upon religion in Spain. - -A merchant from Lexington, Mr. Wenzel, a native of Bavaria, made me -acquainted with an architect, Barret, from New York, who has the -superintendence over the canal that is going forward. I received some -more particular intelligence from this person concerning the work. The -expense was estimated at three hundred and seventy-seven thousand -dollars. The labour on it began this March, and is to be concluded in -the month of November of the following year. The length of the canal -amounts to nearly two miles. It commences below Louisville in a small -bay, goes behind Shippingport, and joins the Ohio between that place and -Portland. Its descent was reckoned at twenty-four feet. Three locks, -each at a distance of one hundred and ninety feet from each other, will -be located not far from the mouth near Shippingport, and the difference -of level in each will be eight feet. The breadth of the locks was fixed -at fifty feet, to admit of the passage of the broadest steam-boat, on -which account also the interval from one lock to the other was made one -hundred and ninety feet. Above the highest lock on both sides of the -canal, dry docks will be constructed for steam-boats to repair in. The -sides of the canal are only walled with masonry between the locks. The -banks above are in a terrace form. One advantage this canal has, is that -the bottom consists of rock; the depth to which it is hewed or blown -out, must be throughout fifty feet wide. The rock, however, which is -broke out here is a brittle limestone, which is not fit for water -masonry, and of course does not answer for locks. The rock employed for -this work is a species of blue stone, brought out of the state of -Indiana, and a bulk of sixteen square feet, four feet deep, costs four -dollars delivered at the canal. To dig this canal out, twenty-seven feet -of yellow clay at its thickest part, then seven feet thick of yellow -sand; from here fifteen feet thick of blue clay, must be passed through -before you come to the rock, where there are ten feet thickness still to -be dug away. As for the lock gates, they were to be made only of timber, -and none of the improvements introduced in England, either the -elliptical form of the gates, or the iron frames were to be employed. -Moreover, I observed from the profile of the work, the incredible height -of the river, which often raises itself fifty feet over places fordable -in the last of summer. - -Upon the following day I took a walk with Dr. Croghan and Major -Davenport, down the canal to Shippingport, and witnessed the labour in -removing the earth for the canal. The soil intended to be dug out, was -first ploughed by a heavy plough, drawn by six oxen. Afterwards a sort -of scoop drawn by two horses was filled with earth, (and it contained -three times as much as an ordinary wheel-barrow,) it was then carried up -the slope, where it was deposited, and the scoop was brought back to be -filled anew. In this manner much time and manual labour was saved. - -Several steam-boats lie at Shippingport, among them was the General -Wayne, which had arrived at New Orleans in five days voyage from this -place; had stopt there five days on account of unloading, and reloading, -and had made her return trip from New Orleans to Louisville in ten days; -consequently had moved against the stream one hundred and thirty-five -miles daily. Several hackney coaches waited here from Louisville, -expecting the arrival of the steam-boat George Washington, which was -looked for every minute. The country is highly romantic. We found -ourselves on an eminence upon the bank, where a large substantial -warehouse had been built jutting over the river. Before us was the foot -of the falls; opposite an island overgrown with wood, to the right the -falls, and Louisville in the back ground; to the left on the other -shore, New Albany, and all around in the rear, a green forest of the -finest trees. - -On our return we passed by a large deserted brick building. It is called -the Hope Distillery, and was established by a company of speculators to -do business on a large scale. After the company had invested about -seventy thousand dollars, several of the stockholders stopped payment. -One of them procured the whole at auction for three thousand dollars, -and would now let any one have it for less. In the year 1817, the desire -to buy land and build upon it, had risen to a mania in this place. Dr. -Croghan showed me a lot of ground, which he had then purchased for two -thousand dollars, and for which, at present, no one would hardly offer -him seven hundred. He has hired a German gardener, who has laid out a -very pretty vegetable garden on this spot, which will yield considerable -profit by his industrious management. - -Dr. Ferguson, a physician here, carried us to the hospital. This edifice -lies insulated upon a small eminence. The building was commenced several -years ago, and is not yet finished. The state of Kentucky gave the -ground as a donation, and bears a part of the expenses of building. As -the establishment is principally used for the reception of sick seamen, -congress has given the hospital a revenue from the custom-house in New -Orleans. The hospital consists of a basement story, three stories above, -and wings, which each have a basement and two stories. In the basement -of the centre building, are the kitchen, wash-house, the store-rooms, -&c., and in the upper story, the chamber for the meeting of the -directors, the apothecary's room, the steward's dwelling, and the state -rooms for patients paying board and lodging. In the third story a -theatre for surgical operations will be arranged. In the wings are roomy -and well aired apartments for the white patients, and in the basement, -those for the negroes and coloured persons. Slavery is still permitted -in Kentucky. There has been until now only one apartment habitable, -in which twelve patients are lying. These have cleanly beds, but only -wooden bedsteads. When the building is thoroughly finished, it will -contain at least one hundred and fifty persons with comfort. Such an -establishment is extremely necessary for such a place as Louisville, -which is very unhealthy in summer. - -I made with Major Davenport an excursion into the country, to the very -respectable country-seat, Locust Grove, six miles from Louisville, -belonging to Dr. Croghan and a younger brother, and inherited from their -father. Close by the town we crossed a small stream, which falls here -into the Ohio, and is called Bear Grass creek. This serves the keel and -flat boats as a very safe harbour. From the bridge over this, the road -goes several miles through a handsome wood on the banks of the Ohio, -past country-seats, and well cultivated fields, behind which fine -looking hills arose. The wood consisted mostly of sycamores. We observed -five that sprung from one root; two are quite common. The trees are very -thick. We measured the bulk of the thickest sycamore, and found it -twenty-seven feet four inches in circumference. I never recollect to -have seen such a mammoth tree. Locust Grove itself lies about a mile -from the river, and is, as appears from its name, surrounded by those -trees. We found here the doctor, his brother William Croghan, with his -young wife, a native of Pittsburgh, and a fat, lovely little boy, who -strikingly reminded me of my sons. - -At a party in the house of Mr. Use, a rich merchant and president of the -branch of the United States Bank here, we met a very numerous and -splendid society. Cotillions and reels were danced to the music of a -single violin, and every thing went off pleasantly. We remained till -midnight, and the company were still keeping up the dance, when we left -them. - -Dr. Ferguson was very much occupied in vaccination. The natural -small-pox had made its appearance within a few days, under a very -malignant form, in the town. On this account every one had their -children vaccinated as speedily as possible; even those who were -prejudiced against vaccination. In the evening, I went with Major and -Mrs. Davenport to the house of Mrs. Wilson, to tea, whose daughter, -fifteen years of age, had been married above a month. The young females -marry much too early here, quite as early as in Louisiana. - -There were two pieces represented at the theatre for the benefit of a -Mrs. Drake; Man and Wife, a favourite English drama, and a farce called -Three Weeks after Marriage. We were present on this occasion. The -proscenium is very small; a confined pit, a single row of boxes, and a -gallery. It was well filled; as Mrs. Drake was very much a favourite -with the ladies here, all the boxes were full of the fashionables of the -place. The dramatic corps was very ordinary with the exception of Mrs. -Drake. Most of the actors were dressed very badly, had not committed -their parts, and played in a vulgar style. One actor was so intoxicated, -that he was hardly able to keep his legs. - -I was furthermore witness to a revolting spectacle in Louisville, from -which I escaped as quick as I was able. A pregnant mulatto woman was -offered for sale at public auction, with her two children. The woman -stood with her children on a bench at a coffee-house; the auctioneer -standing by her side, indulged himself in brutal jests upon her thriving -condition, and sold her for four hundred dollars! - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - _Cincinnati, interior of the State of Ohio.-- Pittsburgh, in - Pennsylvania._ - - -On the 30th of April I was very agreeably surprised by a visit from -Colonel Wool, returning from an inspection on the Red river, the -Arkansas, and New Orleans: he had ascended the stream in the steam-boat -Washington, and arrived in the night at Shippingport. Being on his -return to Washington, he took his passage on board the steam-boat -Atlanta, for Pittsburgh. As this boat stopped at Cincinnati, whither it -was my intention to go, I immediately concluded upon continuing my -journey in the same boat, to enjoy as long as possible the society of so -estimable a friend. We went on board between ten and eleven. The Atlanta -was crowded with passengers, but we were fixed very comfortably and -neatly. The greater part of the passengers were from Natchez, who came -with the intention of spending the summer in the healthier northern -states. Among them was Major Chotard, who was going with his family to -New York, whence he intended to embark for France; and Abbé Martial, -a Frenchman, who had kept a boarding-school in New Orleans for a long -time, and was at that time employed by the Bishop of Kentucky in -Bairdstown, on whose account he was to travel in France and Italy. - -Our trip up the river was very pleasant. The weather was fine; the -shores of the Ohio became more and more interesting the higher we -ascended the stream. In the afternoon, we perceived on the right shore -the little town of Madison, situated on an eminence. It appeared to be -in a flourishing condition, and contained many brick houses; a multitude -of well-dressed persons were standing on the shore. Towards evening we -passed the mouth of the Kentucky river on the left shore. The Kentucky -river, according to the Western Navigator, is a beautiful river in -Kentucky. It originates in the Cumberland mountains, is two hundred -miles in length, one hundred and fifty of which are navigable. Its mouth -is one hundred and sixty yards broad, and proves to be an excellent -harbour for boats. The town occupies a very pretty situation; above its -mouth, and farther down lies Prestonville. The flourishing town of -Frankfort, the seat of government, is situated about sixty miles from -the mouth of the river. The former is five hundred and twenty-four and a -half miles distant from Pittsburgh, fifty-seven and a half from -Cincinnati, and fifty-five and a half from Louisville. Shortly after -leaving Louisville, we were followed by another steam-boat called the -General Marion, towards evening it reached, and wanted to pass us; -a race took place, which discomposed us considerably, and became -dangerous to a high degree. The boilers, being soon over-heated, might -have burst and occasioned a great disaster; during this time we were so -close together, that the railing, as well as the roofs of the wheels -knocked against each other. The danger increased as night drew on, and -particularly so as there were a great number of ladies on board, who -were crying in a most piteous manner. One of them conducted herself most -distractedly; she fell into hysteric fits, wanted to throw herself in -the water on the opposite side of the boat, and could scarcely be -prevented by three strong men. The heating of the boilers of the General -Marion had been so violent, that they ran short of wood, and to their -great confusion, and our extreme satisfaction, they were not only left -behind, but were overtaken by the slow steam-boat Ohio: thus the Atlanta -obtained a brilliant victory. Ten miles above the mouth of the Kentucky -river on the right shore, is the little town of Vevay, built and -inhabited by Switzers. They planted vineyards, which it is said give -them a good revenue. I regretted very much that we passed them by night, -and thus were deprived of the view of Vevay. On the left shore is a -small village called Ghent, in honour of the treaty concluded in that -city, in Flanders. I regretted not to have been able to visit that -place, if only on account of the name. Without farther accident we went -on the whole night, and next morning found ourselves opposite to the -mouth of the Great Miami, which joins the Ohio from the right shore. -This stream forms the boundary between the states of Indiana and Ohio, -and the Western Navigator makes the following observation concerning it. -"The Great Miami is a considerable river, which takes its sources in -Allen, Logan, Shelby, Merion, and Drake counties. It runs southerly -through Miami and Montgomery counties, and receives in the last two -considerable rivers, on the left the Mad river, and on the right the -south-west fork. On entering Butler county the Miami takes a -south-westerly direction, and flows into the Ohio at the south-west -corner of this state, and the north-east one of Indiana. Its course is -one hundred and twenty miles. Its sources situated between 40° and 41° -lat. are in the vicinity of the Massassinaway, a branch of the Wabash, -the Auglaize and St. Mary's, which are branches of the Maumée and the -Sciota, its course is in general rapid, but without any considerable -falls, and runs through a large and fertile valley which is partly -submerged by high water. Near Dayton, about seventy-five miles from its -mouth, the Miami receives on the east side the Mad river; from this -place boats carrying three and four thousand barrels, may run into the -Ohio during high water. The trial of ascending Mad river is seldom made, -the stream being too rapid and there being a great many sand-banks and -dams. The Miami has a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during -forty miles." - -We found the shores of the Ohio well cultivated, with orchards and -Indian corn: we observed several very pretty country-seats. These shores -are mostly elevated, and at the distance of about a mile we could -perceive a chain of hills covered with woods, which made a fine -prospect. Towards ten o'clock in the morning we reached Cincinnati, four -hundred and forty-nine miles from Pittsburgh, one hundred and thirty-one -from Louisville, and fourteen hundred and eighty from New Orleans. It is -situated on the right shore of the Ohio, and built at the foot of a -hill, which is surrounded by a half circle of higher hills covered with -forests. This city presents a very fine aspect. The hills on the -opposite side likewise form a half circle, and in this manner the hill -on which Cincinnati is built, lies as it were in a basin. On the left -shore, the Licking river flows into the Ohio. This, says the Western -Navigator, is a considerable river in Kentucky, which, originating not -far from the sources of the Cumberland and running about two hundred -miles in a north-westerly direction, flows into the Ohio opposite -Cincinnati. The towns of Newport and Covington, the former immediately -above, and the latter below the mouth of Licking river, are beautifully -situated in Campbell county, Kentucky: Newport contains a military depot -of the United States. The shores near Cincinnati are rather steep, and -to render the loading and unloading of boats more convenient, they are -paved and provided with rings and chains of iron. - -Before we could land, the health officers came on board to seek -information respecting the health of the passengers, as great fears were -entertained in Cincinnati of the small-pox, which was raging in -Louisville. We took lodgings at Mack's, a good hotel, near the shore. -Shortly after our arrival, I took a walk in town with Colonel Wool and -Major Foster, of the sixth regiment, who came here to recruit. We -visited some bookstores. The town contains about fifteen thousand -inhabitants, and consists mostly of brick houses. Some of the streets -run parallel with the Ohio, and others form a right-angle with them, -which makes them very regular; they are wide, well-paved, and have -side-walks. Those streets which cross in the direction of the river, -ascend and lead to the top of the hill, from which there is a view -resembling a panorama. Here they were building a large Catholic -cathedral, which was commenced during the last year, and would probably -be finished the next: it will be an ornament to the city. The Bishop, -Mr. Fenwick, had been travelling for some years past in the Catholic -countries of Europe, and had collected considerable contributions for -the construction of this cathedral. The old cathedral, a modest wooden -building, stands yet in the rear of the new one; it is to be demolished -when the former is finished. Cincinnati was settled in the year 1788, -round an old fort, called Washington. The first settlers came from New -England. The settlement did not succeed until 1794, when General Wayne -subdued the Indians. In 1815, it contained six thousand five hundred, -in 1818, about nine thousand, and in 1826, about fifteen thousand. -Cincinnati is the most important city of the western states. There are -two Presbyterian, two Methodist, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one -Swedenborg, and one Quaker church, and the Catholic cathedral. There are -three markets, and several museums. We visited the principal one, called -the Western Museum, but did not meet with any thing new: several Indian -dresses, weapons, pipes, a human scalp, a dried human head from the -South Sea Islands, the head of an Egyptian mummy, manuscripts on papyrus -from the sarcophagus of the mummies, several ancient and modern coins, -the last consisting mostly of foreign gold coins, and some objects of -natural history; a handsome collection of birds, many of them European, -several quadrupeds, some minerals, as well as an indifferent collection -of butterflies. We also saw some oil paintings,[II-23] scarcely worth -mentioning, and finally some show-boxes. - - [Footnote II-23: These had been presented to Bishop Fenwick by - Cardinal Fesch, for his cathedral, and were only here, until they - could find their place in the Temple of God.] - -To my great regret, Colonel Wool left us this day, to continue his -journey up the river, on board the Atlanta. Having seen on the map of -the city of Cincinnati, the indication of some Indian mounds, I went in -search of them, but was unsuccessful, for the very good reason that the -hills had been demolished and in their place houses built. After this I -called on Bishop Fenwick, but he was not at home. I here met with a -clergyman who was a native of Hildesheim, his name was Rese, who was -educated in the Propaganda in Rome. This man showed me the old and new -cathedral. The former is built of wood, resembling a German village -church; in its interior the splendid episcopal seat is particularly -distinguished. The altar had but few ornaments with the exception of -four silver chandeliers which the Queen of Etruria gave to Bishop -Fenwick for his church, and a gilded tabernacle a gift from Pope Pius -VII. In the sacristy there were no ornaments, with the exception of two -gilded frames with relics. The new cathedral is a spacious and lofty -building: they were building the choir, in which an organ made in -Pittsburgh was to be placed. There was to be a large vault under the -altar, destined for the sepulture of the bishops and clergymen. The -church had not as yet any bells, with respect to these, the clergy -expected some contributions from Italy. The vicar-general of the bishop -was Abbé Hill,[II-24] he had formerly been a captain in the British -service, and having become a Catholic while in Italy, entered the -Dominican order. He was said to be a good orator. - - [Footnote II-24: [Brother of Lord Hill.]--TRANS.] - -Deer creek runs into the Ohio above the town--two wooden bridges lead -over it. This brook was very inconsiderable, and could be leaped over, -but it was evident from its steep shores that it swelled sometimes to a -great height. On the other side of this creek is the highest hill in the -vicinity. From its summit there is a delightful prospect over the city -and valley, the centre of which it occupies. This view, _even_ in -Europe, would be considered as very handsome. I found on the top a great -quantity of reddish limestone with shells, an evident proof that this -part of the country was formerly covered by the sea. Among the gentlemen -who favoured me with their visits, I remember a General Neville, from -Pittsburgh, whose father had been adjutant to General La Fayette during -the revolutionary war. Mr. Symmes,[II-25] brother of Captain Symmes, -author of the theory that our planet is hollow and inhabited, drew very -well, and had collected the likenesses of all the persons visiting -Cincinnati who had interested him: he had the kindness to include my -portrait in his collection. Some of these gentlemen conducted me to see -the remains of Indian antiquities which are yet existing, but which -could scarcely be recognized. We ascended an Indian mound, which is -about thirty feet high, situated in a garden. One part of it had been -cut off, but nothing being found in it, they began to plant it with -trees. I had resolved on travelling in the interior of the state of -Ohio, in order to convince myself of the condition of this country, -which has been inhabited but thirty years by a white population. -I therefore renounced the comfortable travelling on the Ohio for the -inconvenient passage by land. To be enabled to travel at my leisure, -I hired a carriage with four horses, at six dollars per day, and left -Cincinnati on the 3rd of May, at eleven o'clock, A. M. We rode that day -twenty-one miles, to the lodgings of the governor, Mr. Morrow, to whom I -had letters from Governor Johnson, of New Orleans. The road led through -a hilly and well-cultivated country. The fields separated by worm fences -adjoin each other, and contain good dwelling-houses and barns. Their -extensive orchards mostly contain apple and peach trees. I had not seen -before any place in the United States in so high a state of cultivation. -But alas! the rain had made the roads so muddy, that it was with -difficulty we proceeded. Fourteen miles from Cincinnati we reached a -little country town, Montgomery, of very good appearance, surrounded -with handsome fields. A few years past there were nothing but woods -here, as the roots which still exist bear testimony. They cultivate -Indian corn and wheat, which is said to succeed better here than in the -state of Indiana. The dwelling of the governor consists of a plain frame -house, situated on a little elevation not far from the shore of the -little Miami, and is entirely surrounded by fields. The business of the -state calls him once a month to Columbus, the seat of government, and -the remainder of his time he passes at his country-seat, occupied with -farming, a faithful copy of an ancient Cincinnatus; he was engaged at -our arrival in cutting a wagon pole, but he immediately stopt his work -to give us a hearty welcome. He appeared to be about fifty years of age; -is not tall, but thin and strong, and has an expressive physiognomy, -with dark and animated eyes. He is a native of Pennsylvania, and was one -of the first settlers in the state of Ohio. He offered us a night's -lodging at his house, which invitation we accepted very thankfully. When -seated round the chimney fire in the evening, he related to us a great -many of the dangers and difficulties the first settlers had to contend -with. They suffered mostly from the Delawares, the Indians then living -there. They had to place their houses in a state of defence. There are -at present scarcely any Indians in the state of Ohio, and it is not now -necessary for the inhabitants to guard their crops and cattle, or to -tremble for their lives. The governor told us that the increase of -population in the state of Ohio was almost incredible. In the year 1800, -it amounted to two hundred thousand inhabitants, in 1810, between four -and five hundred thousand, in 1820, about eight hundred thousand, and it -is to be expected that at the next census of 1830, it will pass one -million. Very few of the settlers brought any thing with them, it was -therefore necessary that they should do every thing by their industry -and exertion. The state had not yet been able to undertake any public -works, roads, &c. The two canals which were constructing, were the first -great work which they had attempted. We spent our evening with the -governor and his lady. Their children are settled, and they have with -them only a couple of grandchildren. When we took our seats at supper, -the governor made a prayer. There was a bible and several religious -books lying on the table. After breakfasting with our hospitable host, -we took our leave at nine o'clock, and rode fifteen miles to Union -Village, a settlement of the Shakers. The road was again hilly, and the -country as well cultivated as that we saw yesterday; we passed through a -country town of good appearance, Lebanon, which lies only four miles -from the Shaker Village. - - [Footnote II-25: [Peyton Symmes, Esq. receiver of the land - office.]--TRANS.] - -Towards three o'clock, P. M. we reached Union Village, and as the -Shakers do not allow any taverns nor public houses, we were received -with great hospitality into one of their private dwellings; we had a -clean and very nice apartment. Soon after our arrival, we were visited -by a great number of the brothers, who looked at us in a very -scrutinizing manner, and asked us a great many questions. The -inquisitiveness of these people resembles very much that of the monks, -to whom they bear a strong resemblance. I remarked among them two old -persons named M'Naman and Houston, on account of their sensible -conversation; they had formerly been Presbyterian clergymen, and are now -a sort of church-wardens to the congregation. This sect consists of six -hundred members, and is of more recent origin than the one in the state -of New York, containing mostly people of limited fortune. It had to -contend in the commencement with great difficulties, and was not in so -flourishing a condition as the one in New Lebanon. The produce of their -labours is scarcely sufficient for their wants, they have therefore not -been able as yet to establish stores, which are so productive to their -fellow believers in New Lebanon. Their houses are good and clean, they -are almost all of brick, and distant from each other. Each house has a -stone staircase leading to two doors, separated only by a window. The -right one is for the men, and the left for the females or sisters, and -so the right side of the house is destined for the brothers and the left -for the sisters. In the rear of the dwelling-houses, some of which -contain sixty members, there is a separate building for the kitchen and -dining-room, and for the workshops. The houses are surrounded with sods, -over these boards are laid leading to the pumps, stables, wash-houses, -&c.; along the side-walk and the road through the village, there are -also boards for the pedestrian. At six o'clock in the evening, the -members take supper in the adjacent refectories; I was permitted to look -at them. Two long tables were covered on each side of the room, behind -the tables were benches, in the midst of the room was a cupboard. At a -signal given with a horn, the brothers entered the door to the right, -and the sisters the one to the left, marching two and two to the table. -The sisters in waiting, to the number of six, came at the same time from -the kitchen and ranged themselves in one file opposite the table of the -sisters. After which they all fell on their knees making a silent -prayer, then arose, took hold of the benches behind them, sat down and -took their meal in the greatest silence. I was told this manner was -observed at all their daily meals. They eat bread, butter and cakes, and -drank tea. Each member found his cup filled before him--the serving -sisters filling them when required. One of the sisters was standing at -the cupboard to pour out the tea--the meal was very short, the whole -society rose at once, the benches were put back, they fell again on -their knees, rose again, and wheeling to the right, left the room with a -quick step. I remarked among the females some very pretty faces, but -they were all without exception of a pale and sickly hue. They were -disfigured by their ugly costume, which consists of a white starched -bonnet. The men likewise had bad complexions. During the whole evening I -was visited by the brothers, by whom I was completely examined; among -them were two Frenchmen of the name of Conchon, father and son, who told -me they were very well satisfied. The son had perfectly adopted the -humble manner of the monks, did not open his eyes, and in explaining the -principles of their sect according to the bible, he maintained that they -were the only Christian sect who followed the true spirit of the gospel. -Respecting their political regulations, they are entirely founded on -perfect community of goods, and renunciation of all private property; -they live in a perfect equality. It will be found that Mr. Owen has -borrowed the greater part of the laws of his new social system from the -Shakers, with this difference, that the Shakers are united by the tie of -religion, and the hope of a better life, which is entirely disbelieved -by Owen. - -It is known that a part of the worship of the believers in mother Ann -Lee, as the Shakers call themselves, consists in dancing. The bible -gives us several examples of worship by dancing--king David danced -before the ark. Mother Ann Lee, founder of this sect, taught that God -should not only be worshipped with the tongue but with the whole body, -and in consequence she introduced jumping and dancing in her divine -service. This is practised publicly in church, accompanied by the -singing of hymns composed for the purpose--strangers are admitted as -spectators. Their church consists of a plain and spacious room, but not -near so large as the church at New Lebanon. On the mornings and evenings -during the week, there are private dancing prayers in the dwelling -houses. The walls of the rooms of the brothers and sisters consists of -large folding doors, which, when opened, form with the corridor one -large room, in which they dance and jump. Our presence putting them -under some restraint, there was no dancing in the evening, which was a -great disappointment to us. Delicacy prevented my inquiring after the -dance. At nine o'clock in the evening every one retired. I was shown to -a very good and clean room. - -The following day, 5th May, several brothers called upon me. Among them -was a German, the only one belonging to this sect. His name was -Christian Bockholder, a native of Neuwied on the Rhine. He is a small, -weakly man, who was converted to this sect but six years ago, and who -seemed much pleased, particularly with the good order, tranquillity, and -peace, which reigns among them; but he observed that this life not -suiting every one, it was necessary to try it carefully before becoming -a member; he had lived six months among them before being received. -Finally he remarked, that notwithstanding every one was free to leave -the society when he thought proper, it would be very wrong to do so, as -when once accustomed to it he would be utterly unfit for the world. At -nine o'clock, when we left Union Village, they, to our surprise, refused -to receive either pay or presents, and nothing now remained but to -return verbal thanks for their hospitality, after which we parted. We -rode twenty-six miles to Xenia, a small country town, where we arrived -after five o'clock, P. M. - -We rode through a very fine and cultivated country, which originally -consisted of woods. We saw at least every five hundred paces with an -habitation or some fields. Those forests which still remain, are chiefly -composed of oak, ash, sugar-maple, plane, shumac, and dogwood trees; the -latter bears handsome white flowers. I did not find the vegetation so -much advanced as in the states of Indiana and Kentucky. We suffered very -much from the bad roads, a greater part of which were log causeways. -I walked a great part of the way. We forded several little rivulets and -creeks, among them the Little Miami; we found a tree laid across without -a rail, intended as a bridge. At several of these we saw some flour and -saw-mills, and passed several small and new settlements, with neat brick -houses and large barns. The handsomest is Bellbrook. Xenia, where we -found a good tavern, is situated very agreeably. The streets are large, -and cross each other at right angles: most of the houses are of brick, -and are situated at a certain distance from each other. The number of -inhabitants is about eight hundred, who farm and carry on different -trades. This little place has two printing-offices, a Latin school, and -several stores. In the centre of the town is the court-house, built of -brick. Xenia is the chief town of Green county. Next to it is a massive -jail. In an excursion we made the following day, May 6th, I remarked one -of the machines for preparing flax, of which I bought a copyright at the -patent-office in Washington. It was worked by a single horse, and did -the work of five men, besides which the flax does not require any -rotting. After nine o'clock we departed, and rode eighteen miles to -Springfield. We stopped on our way at a small village, Yellow Springs, -to see the spring from which this place derives its name. The village -occupies a woody elevation on the shore of the Little Miami, rushing -through a deep rocky valley. The place is small, and was bought by a -society of twelve gentlemen, under the direction of Mr. Lowndes, -a friend of Mr. M'Clure. These gentlemen intended to found a sect upon -Owen's system; there had been one established here previously, but -dissolved on account of the majority of them being worthless creatures, -who had brought neither capital, nor inclination to work. Mr. Lowndes, -whose acquaintance I made, said that he expected new and better members. -The locality is healthy and favourable for such an establishment. The -spring originates in a limestone rock, the water has a little taste of -iron, and deposits a great quantity of ochre, from which it takes its -name. The spring is said to give one hundred and ten gallons of water -per minute, which is received in a basin, surrounded with cedar trees. -The yellow stream which comes from the basin, runs a short distance over -a bed of limestone and is afterwards precipitated into the valley. These -limestone rocks form very singular figures on the edge of this valley; -the detached pieces resemble the Devil's Wall of the Hartz. - -They had no baths fitted up, as yet there is only a shower-bath. The -former will most probably be established, when it becomes a place of -public resort. Mr. Lowndes told me that it was their intention to take -more water in, and to have some walks established in the vicinity, to -which the surrounding country is very favourable. Following Mr. Lowndes' -advice, we took a roundabout way of one mile and rode to a saw-mill -called Patterson's mill, to see the lesser falls of the Little Miami. -I had no reason to repent it, as I was richly rewarded with one of the -finest prospects I ever beheld. The Little Miami forces itself for the -length of a mile with most singular windings through a rocky dale at -least fifty feet deep, which in many places is but eighteen feet wide, -it forms little cataracts, and suddenly disappears for a short distance. -Large cedar trees shade this precipice, which makes it very gloomy, and -contribute in a great measure to the peculiarity of this imposing scene -of nature. The rocks are very steep, and are connected by a bridge, on -which one looks from the dizzy precipice into a real abyss. Following a -narrow path, I went down to the water and found myself almost in -obscurity. I felt entirely separated from the world, and was scarcely -able to preserve the consciousness of my own existence. I experienced a -peculiar feeling on again perceiving the day-light. Following the course -of the rushing waters I reached Patterson's saw-mill, where the men -working for their daily bread, recalled me to human life. Near the -saw-mill a dam forms an artificial waterfall, making a very handsome -effect, being about twenty feet high. The saw-mill has a horizontal -water-mill of the same description as those which I had previously seen -in the United States. With a strong fall of water these wheels have more -effect, and are cheaper than those used in other countries. The road -from the mill to Springfield was bad, mostly by causeways, and I was -again compelled to walk a greater part of the way. Springfield is the -chief town of Clark county, and lies partly at the foot of a hill and -partly upon it, at the confluence of two creeks, the shores are so -marshy that I believe it would be possible to cut turf there. The town -contains fifteen hundred inhabitants, nearly all the houses are built of -brick, the streets are wide and right-angled, they are not paved; the -principal street has a side-walk of brick. In the centre of this little -town is a court-house built of brick, and having the form of an octagon; -next to it stands a jail. The place is surrounded with orchards, meadows -and well cultivated fenced fields. A chain of hills end in a point -behind the town, not far from the confluence of both creeks. On this -point are four insulated hills, which are said to be Indian mounds, -three stand on the edge of one of the creeks, and at some distance is -the fourth, which is quite detached from the others. The latter is the -highest, its elevation is more than one hundred feet above the level of -the valley; from this hill the eye commands a view over Springfield, the -whole surrounding valley, the union of both valleys and the woody -heights encircling the whole, there are clusters of blooming and high -black thorn bushes growing in the meadows, which produce a good effect. -This place seems to be opulent, it contains several good stores, and -depends chiefly on the breeding of cattle and agriculture. We were very -comfortably lodged at the inn at which we stopped. - -On the 7th of May, at nine o'clock, we left Springfield on a beautiful -Sunday morning, and curiosity had assembled a crowd of people before our -inn, to gaze at such wonders as we were. We went twenty-three miles on -the road to Columbus, until we arrived at a single tavern, called -Pike's. The country was less cultivated than we had seen since leaving -Cincinnati; we saw however, several fine orchards and fields; all the -settlements are new, and the habitations mostly consist of log-houses; -we met several carts filled with well-dressed country people and several -of both sexes on horseback, they were all going to church at -Springfield. The road was generally very bad, and over many log -causeways, kept in bad order. Beyond the woods, we saw vast tracts of -meadow ground, on which only a few trees could be seen, but there were -very handsome black thorns in flower. On the meadows numerous cattle -were grazing, we passed two with a great number of sheep, and hogs were -always plenty; the breeding of cattle is carried on to a great extent; -quantities of cheese and butter are made here for sale; the cattle are -drove to the eastern states, or the meat is salted and sent to New -Orleans. We observed a great many partridges of a large kind, which they -call pheasants[II-26] here; the forests abound with wild pigeons. We -reached our lodging place, Pike's tavern, about four o'clock in the -afternoon. It is situated amidst meadows[II-27] and consists of two -log-houses erected close behind each other, they resemble those of the -state of Georgia, differing only in being better suited for a colder -climate, as the crevices are filled with clay. Our landlord only began -his establishment five years ago; he came from Massachusetts. Towards -evening we saw a fine drove of cattle belonging to him, and in which his -fortune chiefly consisted. Next morning we left our abode where we had -been better lodged than we had expected, and went twenty miles farther -to Columbus. The road was worse than any I had ever met with, consisting -generally of log causeways, which are badly assorted and have large -holes between them. We were barbarously jolted about, and therefore I -went more than half the way on foot; the soil principally consists of a -black meadow ground, marshy, with little wood and less cultivated. It is -said to be unwholesome during the summer; the houses are scattered and -in a bad condition. At one mile from Columbus, is a small place called -Franklinton, having several brick houses and a court-house. Its increase -was at one time promising, but Columbus prevents its future advancement. -Columbus is situated on the high left bank of the Sciota; we forded this -river, which was perilous, as the water ran into our carriage; there was -a wooden bridge formerly between Franklinton and Columbus, but it was -broken down a year ago; trees are growing very fast in the woods in the -vicinity, but the wood is without strength and becomes rotten as soon as -it attains its growth, which makes it impossible to depend on the -duration of wooden buildings. Columbus is the chief town of the state of -Ohio, and contains about one thousand eight hundred inhabitants, and -three churches; one Presbyterian, one Lutheran, and one Methodist. In -the year 1812, there were nothing but forests, and in the same year the -lots of the city with the wood were sold, upon which they immediately -commenced building. It is astonishing how this place has since -increased, and still continues to improve--the streets are wide, and -cross each other at right angles. The principal street running parallel -with the Sciota, is about one hundred feet wide, having side-walks, and -a considerable number of brick houses--the adjoining streets are not yet -much occupied. In building the principal streets, one of the Indian -mounds has been opened, and nearly destroyed. A great number of human -bones were found, remains of urns, and an owl carved in stone, but very -clumsy; with the clay of which the mound was made, bricks were burned -which served for the construction of the state-house; this building -contains the offices of the state, and the United States court. These -three buildings stand near each other at one end of the principal -street, each of them having two stories--the state-house as well as the -court, are situated at the sides of these long offices, which gives them -the appearance of barracks; they have steeples and galleries, from which -the course of the Sciota, receiving a mile above the town the Whetstone -river, can be followed with the eye to a great distance over the fertile -plain on the right shore of the Sciota, where Franklinton is situated, -and is a very handsome sight. The Sciota originates in the state of -Ohio, runs one hundred and eighty-two miles, and flows in the Ohio -between Portsmouth and Alexandria, its mouth is one hundred and fifty -yards wide; it is navigable one hundred and thirty miles and upwards. -The Whetstone, which it receives above Columbus, is at certain times -navigable for nine miles. About five miles above Columbus, on the left -shore of the Sciota, is a quarry of white sandstone, which resembles -marble until polished, after which it turns grey. Columbus contains -three printing-offices, each of which issues a newspaper. There are also -bookstores, one of them belongs to Mr. Kilbourn, author of the Ohio -Gazetteer; this book having been of great use to me, during my journey -through this state, I wished to see the author of so useful a work, -an attention with which he appeared much pleased. Respecting the three -newspapers, I found their number great for so small a place, but I heard -that only one, which is in some measure the official paper of the state, -was much read, and had many subscribers; the other two having but fifty, -and could only maintain themselves by advertisements, &c. I met in -Columbus with a Mr. Doherty, whose acquaintance I had made in -Cincinnati, and who conducted me to see the town. There is nothing -remarkable in the public buildings above mentioned; the state -penitentiary interested me much more; it is well situated, appears to be -well arranged, and contains one hundred and fifty-two convicts; the -principal building is on a rising ground; in the rear are several yards -where the workshops of the prisoners are situated, they are clothed in a -dress part grey and part white, and sleep two together, in airy but -narrow cells, on straw mattresses; during the day they are employed in -the workshops, or in the work of the house. They have a large refectory, -where their meals, consisting of meat and vegetables are served up in -wooden plates; each prisoner is obliged to work at the trade which he -understands, and he who is acquainted with none is obliged to learn one, -being permitted to choose which he prefers. All the clothing used in the -house, as well as the cotton cloth, are made by the prisoners, who -receive no payment; there is also a wheelwright shop in operation, as -well as blacksmiths, coopers, cabinet-makers, comb-makers, saddlers, and -gunsmiths, who make very good rifles: the articles manufactured by the -coopers consist chiefly of buckets and barrels, made of white and red -cedar wood; there is a store attached to the prison, where all these -articles are exposed for sale. I understand that the prison maintains -itself, and causes but a trifling expense to the state. The favourite -solitary confinement in dark and subterraneous cells is used as a -capital punishment. A couple of prisoners who had tried to escape and -were retaken, wore an iron collar with a horn attached to it; the prison -has been in use ten years, during which time, ten men only had escaped, -nearly all of whom had been retaken: the prisoners are so well treated, -that I was assured that several of them stole again, after having served -their time out, in order to return to their prison. It is worthy of -notice that during ten years, two white females only, were committed to -this prison; the yards are surrounded by a large and high wall, where -sentries keep watch day and night with loaded muskets. We left Columbus -on the 9th of May, at eight o'clock in the morning, and rode to -Circleville, a distance of twenty-six miles. The road passes along the -left shore of the Sciota, through a woody and rather uncultivated -country, two days of rain had softened the ground considerably; -fortunately we met with very few log causeways; we forded two small -rivers which flow into the Sciota, called Big-Belly creek, and Lower -Walnut creek. We passed a small place, Bloomfield, consisting of small -frame houses, and reached Circleville towards two o'clock, P. M. -Circleville is built in one of the old Indian forts, whose origin, as -well as that of the nation which erected it, is buried in utter -darkness. The circular part immediately joins the square, and -communicates with it by means of a single outlet. The square fort has -eight outlets, and in the rear of each of them there is a little mound, -which appears to have served as traverses for the defence of the -entries; the round fort has two parallel ramparts separated by a ditch. -The quadrangular fort has but a single one, where there are no traces of -a trench; the diameter of the circular fort, taken between the exterior -ramparts, is one hundred and ninety-six rods; both of them are twenty -feet high, taken from the base of the ditch; the inner one is filled up, -and the exterior is dug from the ground; the fortress consists of clay, -the latter of sand and flintstone; the rampart of the square fort is ten -feet higher, and of clay; the length of one side of the square is -fifty-four rods; the town, containing six hundred inhabitants, is for -the greatest part built inside of the round and square fort, of which it -occupies the fourth part of the surface. In its centre is a round space, -in the midst of which stands a court-house of brick in the shape of an -octagon. Circleville is the chief town of Pickaway county. From this -circular place four principal streets run towards the north, south, -east, and west; in order to open them, the double round wall has -unfortunately been partly demolished; the selfishness of the inhabitants -goes so far that they take the clay of the inner wall and the square -fort to burn bricks of it; this little town was founded in 1812, at the -same time with Columbus, but has not increased much since; the houses -are generally of wood. The prison alone is of solid construction, built -of free-stone. - - [Footnote II-26: [_Tetrao Umbellus_, L.]--TRANS.] - - [Footnote II-27: These meadows are designated in America, by the - name of prairies, and extend over large tracts of land in the - western country; they are covered with high grass; trees grow very - sparingly on them, while the surrounding forests exhibit the most - beautiful trees; the soil of these prairies generally consists of - turf-moor.] - -On the outside of the circular fort, on the hill opposite the -quadrangular fort, is another hill ninety feet high, that commands all -the neighbouring parts, which appear to have been a burying-ground--a -great number of human skeletons of all sizes having been found there; -they were all in a horizontal position, the heads being turned towards -the centre of the hill. With the skeletons were several stone axes, and -oval, polished black stones, having a hole in their centre, probably to -fix them on a string, to be worn as ornaments or talismans. - -In the centre of the circular fort, where the court-house now stands, -there was formerly another hill, on the eastern side of which are the -remains of a semicircular pavement, made of pebble-stones, the same -which are found in the bed of the Sciota; the top of the hill is of -thirty feet diameter, and has a flight of steps leading to it; two human -skeletons were found there. At the natural level of the ground a great -number of stone arrow-heads, which were so strong that they must have -belonged to lances. A great quantity of wood ashes and hard burnt bricks -induce the belief that the bodies were burnt; there was a looking-glass -made of mica membranacea. More minute details of these antiquities, -as well as all the others which have been found in this state, are -described in Mr. Caleb Atwater's _Archaelogia Americana_. I paid a visit -to this gentleman, who resides here; he is a great antiquarian, and -exists more in the antiquities of Ohio, than in the present world. -I spent the evening with this interesting man, and was very agreeably -entertained; he possesses a collection of objects which were found in -different mounds; it contains fragments of urns, arrow-heads of a large -size, battle-axes made of flintstone, and several human bones. Mr. -Atwater likewise possesses a very handsome collection of minerals, among -which I found some interesting petrifactions of wood and plants, in -particular, the whortleberry plant. He offered to send to the university -of Jena a collection of these petrifactions which are found near -Zanesville, in this state, and for which he desired to obtain some -German minerals. I must not omit to mention, that on the hill, outside -of the circular fort, is a small wooden house nearly destroyed by -storms, which commands a view of all the surrounding country. It had -been a house of ill fame, but being visited one night by a violent -storm, it was abandoned by its inhabitants, to the great edification of -the whole town. - -The 10th of May we rode nineteen miles, from Circleville to Chillicothe, -formerly the capital of Ohio, situated on the right shore of the Sciota. -Our way led us through a handsome and very well cultivated country; -we saw fine fields, good dwelling-houses, orchards, and gardens; also -several mills, turned by the water of the Sciota, and several other -little creeks; some of these mills are at the same time fulling, flour, -and saw-mills. - -The forests are chiefly of sugar maple, plane, and different kinds of -nut trees: the road was tolerably good, the weather fine and warm; there -is a covered wooden bridge which crosses the Sciota not far from -Chillicothe; this bridge runs at least five hundred paces on piers, over -a meadow which is sometimes inundated by the Sciota. We were comfortably -lodged at Watson's hotel, in Chillicothe. This town, like Philadelphia, -lies between two rivers--the Sciota may be considered as the Delaware, -and Paint creek rivulet takes place of the Schuylkill: the streets are -large, at right angles, and without pavement, but have side-walks: -a great part of the houses are built of brick; there are several fine -stores. Over the whole prosperity and liveliness appears to reign. -Chillicothe is the chief town of Ross county; it contains a court-house, -built of freestone, which, at the time it was the seat of the state -government, was used for the senate house; the representatives met in -the building now used for the court offices: there is also in this city -a jail, and a market-house of brick. I received visits from several of -the most distinguished inhabitants, among them was a lawyer, Mr. -Leonard, Dr. Vethake and Colonel King, son of the celebrated Rufus King, -the American minister to London, and son-in-law of the former governor -of this state, Mr. Worthington: the latter lived at a country-seat two -miles from Chillicothe, where he enjoyed his rents and the revenue of -his considerable property, in the midst of an amiable family and an -agreeable old age, free from cares. His son-in-law invited us to his -father's house; we accepted his invitation and rode in Messrs. Leonard -and Vethake's company, towards evening, to the country-seat; our road -led us through a beautiful and well cultivated valley, near a little -Indian mound, and through a forest of beach, maple, chesnut and hickory -trees; finally we rode through handsome fields, where here and there we -saw groups of white thorn. The governor's house is surrounded with -Lombardy poplars; it is constructed in the style of an Italian villa, of -free stone, with stone steps on the exterior, is two stories high, and -has two wings, having a court in front of the centre building containing -honeysuckles and roses: on one side of the house is a terrace with -flowers and kitchen vegetables; this garden was arranged by German -gardeners who keep it in very good order: behind the house are large -clover fields, and to the right the farm buildings. Governor Worthington -occupies himself with the raising of cattle, particularly sheep; he had -a flock of one hundred and fifty merinos. I understood that they were -numerous in the state of Ohio. Colonel King and his highly accomplished -lady, came to meet us; the governor and his lady soon appeared: he has -travelled a great deal, has been a long time in public offices, and was -for several years a member of the United States' senate; his eldest son -was travelling in Europe, another son was in the military academy at -West Point. He has ten children, on whom he expended a great deal for -their education; the evening passed rapidly in instructive and -interesting conversation, the hospitable governor insisted on our -passing the night at his house; the house is very commodious, the -furniture plain, but testifies the good taste and easy circumstances of -the owner. I arose early next morning and took a walk in the governor's -garden, I ascended to a platform on the roof to take a view of the -surrounding lands, but there is as yet nothing but woods covering the -greater part of the country. Fires, which were burning in some places, -were proofs, that new settlers were clearing the woods; from this -platform the governor can overlook the greater part of his property, -containing twenty-five thousand acres of land; by this means he has the -greater part of his workmen under his control; the ground consists of -low hills, and it is only towards the east in the direction of -Zanesville, that more considerable elevations are perceived. I took -breakfast with the worthy governor and his family, and found here, as at -Governor Morrow's, that the father of the family, observed the laudable -custom of making a prayer before sitting down. After breakfast we took -leave of this respectable family, whose acquaintance I consider as one -of the most interesting I made in the United States, and returned to -town. Chillicothe contains from two to three thousand inhabitants, who -subsist chiefly by farming, raising of cattle and retail commerce; they -had also commenced establishing woollen factories, and possessed a bank; -it was formerly a branch of the United States Bank, but doing too little -business, was suppressed by the mother bank in Philadelphia. We visited -two churches, one Methodist and one Episcopalian, the former was rather -large, both of them were very plain and contained nothing worthy of -remark. We paid a visit to Mr. Hufnagel, a native of Würzburg, an -elderly man who had experienced misfortune, and who is now established -as a butcher and trader in cattle, and finds himself in easy -circumstances; he appeared to be very much delighted at my visit, and -received us very heartily in his well arranged house, situated in an -orchard. Between two and three o'clock, the stage took us to Colonel -King's house, where we dined, in order to drive us eighteen miles to -Tarleton; we took leave of him with grateful hearts; the road ran -through a well cultivated country, which is very hilly and presents -several picturesque situations; ten miles from Chillicothe on a hill, is -a small village, Kingston, with farms of a good appearance, and several -mills. Towards sunset we reached Tarleton, a handsome little spot of -about twenty houses, and took our lodgings at a very good tavern, kept -by a Pennsylvanian German. I had lost my pocket-book, probably by one of -the hard jolts which our stage had received; it contained several papers -of importance. It was found one mile from Chillicothe, and by its -contents I was known to be the owner; a man set out in the night to -bring it to me; at midnight this man arrived in Tarleton, had me called -up, and safely returned me my pocket-book. I was so much delighted to -recover it, that I expressed my thankfulness in every way I could. On -the 12th of May, we left Tarleton at two o'clock in the morning, and -rode to New Lancaster, which is sixteen miles; we arrived between seven -and eight o'clock, and took our lodgings at Steinman's hotel; the mail -stage which went that day to Zanesville, had only two horses and took no -passengers, I therefore resolved to stay until the following day, as it -was said there would be a stage with four horses, and I found no cause -to repent it. New Lancaster has its name from the city of Lancaster in -Pennsylvania, and was founded by Pennsylvanian Germans, who were joined -by many German emigrants, particularly Wurtembergers, and some Switzers, -all of whom were pleased with the good climate, the fertile soil, which -requires but little cultivation and manure, and above all, by the cheap -living and profitable earnings. New Lancaster is the principal town of -Fairfield county, and is handsomely situated on the side of a hill on -the Hockhocking river, not far distant from its source; it contains -nearly two thousand inhabitants, living by retail commerce, farming, and -cattle raising. Since 1822, the culture of tobacco has also been -introduced; this tobacco is called yellow, and is esteemed; I understand -that it sells very well in Holland. The streets of the town are wide and -rectangular; the court-house is a brick building; there is also a -market-house of brick, and above it a lodge for freemasons. Shortly -after my arrival, I received the visits of several of the German and -half German inhabitants, among the latter I remarked Judge Dietrich, -a native of Philadelphia, an agreeable, plain and well-informed man; he -offered to be my guide through the town, which I thankfully accepted. He -introduced me to several of the merchants, whose well-furnished stores I -visited. Such a store in America contains a great variety of articles: -all kinds of dry-goods, porcelain, earthenware, glasses, stationary, -implements of husbandry, iron wares, saddlery, and spirits; the latter -are only by wholesale; also school-books, bibles, and psalm-books. -I observed in almost all the cities in the state of Ohio, that German -translations were affixed to all the signs over the stores, in large -golden letters, which is not only a proof that a great many Germans -inhabit the state, but also that they are good customers. We saw an -English and German printing-office; the latter was under the direction -of a German, Mr. Herrman, who publishes a German newspaper under the -title of _Der Ohio Adler_,[II-28] the English printing-office likewise -publishes a paper; the type for the German paper is from the foundry in -Philadelphia, and cannot be said to be elegant; it is true there is -generally but little elegance to be observed in German type. I read in -Mr. Herrman's office about twelve different German papers, published in -the United States; they were mostly written in a corrupted German; the -only well written one, was edited in Philadelphia, by Mr. Ritter. - - [Footnote II-28: [The Ohio Eagle.]--TRANS.] - -Judge Dietrich conducted me to a cloth manufactory belonging to Mr. -Risey, whose machinery is moved by the waters of the Hockhocking. It was -of recent date, and furnished cloth of middling quality; the want of a -sufficient quantity of water made it necessary to divide the manufactory -into different parts, at different situations; one was occupied by the -machines for carding wool, and some by looms; the wool was spun by -country women. We visited the county jail, a brick building, the -interior has partitions made of strong beams, separating obscure cells; -a dark and miserable hole called the dungeon, was destined for solitary -confinement; there was but a single prisoner, and for debt. Mr. Dietrich -introduced me to a Mr. Sherman, judge of the supreme court, who is one -of the most respectable inhabitants of the place. He invited me to tea, -and I met with a very agreeable society; we all took a walk to Mount -Pleasant, two miles from town, which on three sides presents steep -cliffs; this mountain is only accessible from one side, through a forest -and hollow between rocks. From the top of the mountain the town seems to -lay below your feet, and is surrounded with fenced fields; this point -being one of the highest in this hilly country, the prospect would be -very handsome if the eye could perceive any thing but woods. Next -morning some Swabian farmers came to see me; I was sitting at my -writing-table when they entered; they sat down without taking off their -hats, and conversed very sensibly; I understood from them that they were -very much pleased with the country, and that they felt conscious of -being honest and useful men. At eight o'clock we went into the mail -stage, an uncomfortable box, in which we rode thirty-six miles to -Zanesville, on a rough road with many causeways leading through a hilly -region, so that we had to stop at least forty times. It was very warm -and dusty during the day; the land was less fertile than what we had -previously seen in the state of Ohio, containing more clay and sand; -we arrived in the district of the coal and salt mines, both of which -articles are found in the vicinity of Zanesville. We passed between New -Lancaster and Zanesville the insignificant places of Rush-hill, -Somerset, Union town, and Jonathan's creek; Rush-hill is in a pretty -situation on Rush-creek, a strong rivulet which works several mills; it -consists of about thirty houses, some of them of brick. Somerset, half -way from New Lancaster to Zanesville, contains four hundred inhabitants, -it is on an elevated situation and is the chief town of Perry county. -Jonathan's creek has given its name to the little village situated on -both of its shores; the true name of this creek is Maxahala; it is very -convenient for mills. We met with two herds of beautiful cattle, which -had been brought from Chillicothe, and were driving to the eastern -seaports for sale; towards six o'clock we arrived in a well-cultivated -district, our road led us through orchards and neat houses; finally we -arrived at Putnam, a little place situated on the right shore of the -Muskingum, opposite Zanesville. We crossed the river by a covered wooden -bridge, resting on five stone piers. The Muskingum is one of the most -considerable rivers in the state of Ohio, it begins in the most northern -part, runs in a southerly direction, waters several counties, and -empties by a mouth twenty-five yards broad, into the Ohio at Marietta; -it is navigable from Zanesville upwards; below, the mill-dams prevent -the navigation. On account of the new canal which is to unite the Ohio -with Lake Erie, on which they were working, though slowly, for want of -funds, the navigation on this river will cease. - -In Zanesville we took good lodgings at Hughes' hotel; there must be a -great number of travellers, as in the principal street we could count -seven other taverns. Zanesville contains three thousand inhabitants: its -streets are large and straight, a great number of brick houses, upwards -of twenty stores, two printing-offices, and two glass-houses, where -common window-glass and bottles are manufactured, which are well paid -for in the vicinity; this town has been for some time the chief town of -the state of Ohio, and is now the principal place of Muskingum county; -the court-house is a large brick building, in front of it was erected a -triumphal arch in honour of General La Fayette, but he did not pass -here. We returned in the evening over the bridge to Putnam, to deliver -letters to Mr. Ebenezer Buckingham. On this occasion I found that the -length of this bridge was about two hundred and seventy-seven ordinary -paces; it is divided in two parts, the wagons keeping the right side. -Putnam consists of a single street, running along the river, behind -which is a rocky elevation; the street afterwards forms an angle, -leaving the river and looses itself in a picturesque valley between -fields and orchards. This place has six hundred inhabitants, a great -many brick houses, and presents a flourishing appearance. Mr. Buckingham -is one of the most respectable inhabitants, and has a large store in -which he keeps all articles that may be required here; he received us in -his store, and gave us much information relative to Zanesville, Putnam -and its vicinity; the ground is not so fertile here as in other parts of -the state, but kind Providence has indemnified them in some measure with -salt, and coal-mines; the salt springs were previously known to the -Indians, but not used by them. When the country became inhabited by a -white population, they bored to the depth of two hundred feet and found -abundant salt springs, some of them were deeper; the openings being made -larger, walled cisterns were fixed to collect the running water. The -salt is boiled in large kettles, after which it is made to run over flat -reservoirs, where it is cooled, and the salt separated; this is the same -method which is followed in England, and which I had seen in the salt -works of Northwich; having heard this description, and the springs being -four miles distant, I gave up the idea of visiting them. A great many -petrifactions and impressions of plants are found here, some of which I -had seen at Mr. Atwater's, in Circleville. - -On the next day, Mr. Buckingham came for me, to introduce me to his -family, consisting of his wife and three daughters, very good children; -the eldest was nine years old, his only son was a cadet in the military -school at West Point. The house in which he resides at Putnam is at some -distance from his store, is two stories high, built of brick with a -stone porch; in front of the house is a space planted with trees and -flowers separated from the street by an iron railing with large stone -posts. In the rear of the house is a kitchen garden and orchard; the -house is very convenient and furnished with taste and well-directed -luxury. All this was interesting to me, because I heard from Mr. -Buckingham that twenty-nine years since, he emigrated as a poor man from -the state of New York to that wild country, and on the spot where his -property now stands he had himself felled the trees, and built a -log-house in which he lived several years; he owes his welfare to his -integrity, his industry, and economy. In his business, he informed me -money was a rare thing, which he seldom saw; the greatest number of -persons who buy articles from his store, pay for them in corn, beef, -lard, corn meal, vegetables, fruits, &c. This is, however, the case with -most of the stores in the western states, and give the merchants -considerable trouble to sell them. I accompanied Mr. Buckingham and -family to the Presbyterian church in Zanesville, a large brick building, -which was very full and very warm. I understood very little of the -sermon; the singing was excellent, without organ or any musical -accompaniment. In the centre of the church was a long table, as a -greater part of the congregation were communicants. Mr. Buckingham and -family partook of this religious rite. I took a walk through the town, -and visited a second bridge crossing the Muskingum, situated above the -first; this bridge is more ancient than the first, and likewise rests on -five stone piers; it is covered and made of wood, but badly constructed -and in a decayed condition. It does not run in a straight line, but -forms an obtuse angle, in order to reach a point of land which is -produced by the union of the Licking with the Muskingum, from this angle -of the bridge, another begins, which goes towards the point of land; -this is not roofed; this bridge leads to the Newark road, meanwhile the -covered branch is directed to the New Lancaster road. Since the -construction of the better bridge below, the older one is very little -used. The prospect from it over the Muskingum and Licking is very -handsome. Both of them have, not far from their junction, high dams -forming waterfalls, and on all the four shores mills for flour, oil and -sawing. The Licking begins at the junction of three little rivers in -Licking county, and has some falls above, where it unites with the -Muskingum, which have been used for mills. At two o'clock we returned to -our mail stage; the weather being very hot, we rode but twelve miles, to -an insulated house called Dugan's tavern, where we arrived between five -and six o'clock, and met with tolerably good quarters. The country is -woody and very hilly, the road was so bad that we had to stop -frequently, and for this reason I again went the greatest part of the -road on foot, in spite of the heat and dust; the next day we travelled -in the same manner to Fairview, forty-eight miles distant, along a very -hilly country, bad road, rocks, causeways, and so many rapid -declivities, that we had to stop thirty times. We passed through Salt -creek, Cambridge, Washington, and Frankfort. Salt creek lies on a small -river of the same name, over which there is a bridge. Cambridge is a -flourishing place of about seventy houses, on a height situated on -Will's creek, which is crossed by a plain wooden bridge of one hundred -and seventy-five yards, which passes over a low meadow; this town is the -chief place in Gurnsey county, and contains a court-house and several -stores. We arrived on a court day, and the tavern was filled with -lawyers. Will's creek runs through many windings, about one hundred and -fifty miles, and flows into the Muskingum; it is in some seasons -navigable to Cambridge, in boats of seventy-five feet length. Washington -and Frankfort are small places, of which nothing can be said. On the -road, especially near dwelling houses, were several large open buildings -constructed with beams to dry the yellow tobacco. The country is mostly -covered with woods. The ground consists of yellow and red clay, &c. - -Fairview, which we reached towards five o'clock in the evening, is a -little place containing about twenty houses, most of them frame; it is -situated on an elevation commanding an extensive prospect, whence it -derives its name. We met here with part of the great national road which -leads from Washington city to Wheeling, and is to be continued as far as -St. Louis. It is a turnpike road, dug out six inches deep, and is -covered six inches thick with small stones, having a ditch on each side; -they were working slowly at it: Fairview is now at the end of the road. - -On the 16th of May we left Fairview, in a beautiful starlight and warm -night, and continued our journey sixty miles to Washington in -Pennsylvania. The country was hilly. The two last villages we passed in -the state of Ohio, were Morristown and St. Clairsville. Both places are -small, but well situated on elevations, and surrounded with fields and -orchards. St. Clairsville is the chief town of Bellmont county; it -contains a court-house, jail, market-house, and printing-office, which -issues a newspaper; also several stores. The houses are merely of wood. -The nearer we approached to the Ohio, the handsomer was the country. -Finally, we came to a romantic dale, through which flows in a serpentine -direction a rivulet called Indian Wheeling, which joins the Ohio -opposite Wheeling. We frequently rode along the new national turnpike -road, on which they were working rapidly. This road carefully avoids the -numerous hills, cuts through several of them, and has, where it is -requisite, solid stone bridges. It was said that it would be finished in -the autumn. When arrived at the Ohio, which runs between hilly shores, -partly covered with woods, partly cultivated, twenty-nine miles from -Fairview, we crossed over the river and arrived at a considerable woody -island, and crossed the left arm in a horse-boat, which took us to -Wheeling, a town containing two thousand inhabitants, built on a terrace -along a steep and high hill. Thus we left the state of Ohio, an -important and daily increasing state, which, with the exception of the -bad roads, had pleased me very much. We entered the state of Virginia, -of which a part runs like a wedge between the states of Pennsylvania and -Ohio. In Wheeling we took the stage on the great national road to -Washington in Pennsylvania, which is twenty-nine miles distant. We soon -ascended a high mountain, from the top of which we could discover on one -side the beautiful valley of the Ohio, the woody mountains bordering the -valley, and the town of Wheeling with its orchards and gardens on the -other; a deep valley along which the Wheeling creek runs in a -picturesque manner. The national road gradually descends this steep -hill, forming the western border of the valley, continues in it and goes -over a handsome stone bridge across Wheeling creek. A neighbouring -family who profited considerably by the construction of the national -road, have erected at the bridge a monument in honour of the secretary -of state, (H. Clay,) who was the chief promoter of it in congress. This -monument consists, as far as I could perceive in my hurry, of a statue -of liberty, coarsely sculptured in sandstone, placed on a clumsy -pedestal ornamented with inscriptions and bas relief. Monuments erected -to living persons have always something suspicious; they generally -exhibit that vile adulation to which the Dutch give a characteristic -name.[II-29] I was greatly surprised to find such sentiments in this -country, and to see them tolerated. The national road, which is finished -seven years ago, requires considerable repairs, or at least to be kept -in better order. Since it has been finished nothing has been done to it. -The tracks are deep, and the road is very rough. The stage we rode in -was of the description made in the north-eastern states, which are the -best and most convenient I had met with since October last year. We -changed horses twice in West Alexandria and Claysville. We passed -several little places through a well cultivated country, over some stone -bridges of sumptuous construction. Fifteen miles from Wheeling we left -the state of Virginia, and entered the state of Pennsylvania partly -known to me, and which I now intended to cross from its western to its -eastern extremity. We arrived at Washington at ten o'clock at night, and -left there at one o'clock on the morning of the 17th of May, the weather -being cloudy. Abandoning the national road, we turned to the left -towards Pittsburgh, twenty-five miles from Washington. To Cannonsburg, -a distance of seven miles, the road was tolerably good, but after this -it became bad, and I was compelled, in conformity to my old custom, -to walk a great part of the way. - - [Footnote II-29: Knopendraayerye.] - -To the cloudy night succeeded a fine warm morning, and a picturesque -valley where handsome houses and mills cheered the spirits. The -mountains are filled with coal and several openings penetrating into -them, prove that this important fuel is not neglected. We finally came -to the left shore of the Ohio, and before us was Pittsburgh covered by a -black cloud of smoke. This city is situated at the confluence of the -Alleghany and Monongahela; both these rivers after their union form the -majestic Ohio. The water of the Monongahela is much more muddy than that -of the Alleghany, and both rivers are distinguished separately at a -great distance. The situation of Pittsburgh, as well as the Ohio valley, -resemble in some measure the environs of Liege, on the Meuse, with the -exception that the mountains of the Meuse are higher than these. We -passed through a little village called Birmingham, where are salt-works, -a glass-house, and iron-works, and arrived at the bridge which crosses -the Monongahela. This bridge is marked on the map as projected, but has -been finished for six or seven years. It is of wood resting on five -stone piers, and consists of six arches of very solid construction, -being covered and divided in two parts. A fine of fifteen dollars is -exacted of those who ride on horseback or carriage faster than a walk; -there are also foot-walks. Pittsburgh contains fifteen thousand -inhabitants--it has not a pleasing appearance, containing a great number -of wooden buildings, all of a smoky colour from the smoke continually -ascending from the numerous manufactories. Pittsburgh reminds you of an -English city, and therefore is called the American Birmingham. It was -nine o'clock, A. M. when we arrived, and took lodgings at the -Mansion-house, kept by Colonel Ramsay, a good hotel, and a very polite -landlord. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - _Pittsburgh.-- Economy.-- Mr. Rapp and his Society._ - - -I was scarcely settled here before I received a visit from two German -residents, Mr. Bonnhorst, a justice of the peace, and Mr. Volz, -a merchant. These gentlemen accompanied me to indicate the most -remarkable places and manufactures of the city. - -We visited a French glass-cutter, a very skilful man, who does a good -business; passed by the court-house, which is built opposite the -market-house in a half circle, and stopped at the glass factory of Mr. -Bakewell, in which fine flint glass is blown and ground. This crystal is -as clear, and nearly as good as the English. The processes used in such -a manufactory are known; but I wondered at the celerity with which the -different articles are made. Glass-cutting, as is well known, is a -difficult work, and requires skilful artists, which are still rare in -this country, and very dear. We visited a paper manufactory belonging to -Mr. Baldwin, which is arranged in the usual manner: thence we went to an -eminence which overlooks the city, called Grant's Hill, after an English -General Grant, who, during the seven years' war, was slaughtered here -along with his troops, by the Indians. - -The French, about the middle of the preceding century, had built a fort -on the point of land, immediately at the confluence of the two rivers, -called Duquesne. The English found this fortification annoying, and -hence arose the occurrences which subsequently produced the seven years' -war. This place has the highest interest to every European soldier. -General Grant wished to obtain possession of Fort Duquesne, and besieged -it from the height which still bears his name. He however kept a -miserable guard, was surprised, and paid with his own life, and that of -his men, for his negligence. From this hill, one may behold, at a view, -the three vallies of the Alleghany, Monongahela and Ohio. - -Rapp's society, after leaving New Harmony, chose a new situation which -they named Economy. This is eighteen miles from Pittsburgh. I intended -to visit it on the following day, but on this evening, (May 17,) I was -surprised by a visit from Mr. Frederick Rapp, adopted son of the founder -of the Society, who gave me an invitation to pay their establishment a -visit. We therefore went willingly at ten o'clock, next morning, -accompanied by Messrs. Bonnhorst and Volz, to Economy, whither Mr. -F. Rapp preceded us. - -We reached the Alleghany bridge, which is built of wood, roofed, and -supported upon five stone piers. The foot-walks are separated from the -wagon-road, and are open on one side, so that foot passengers are not -incommoded by the dust from the inside of the bridge. On the opposite -side is a little village called Alleghany town, laid out upon a great -scale, but on account of the proximity of Pittsburgh, it will with -difficulty attain any importance: in former years, the Indians, which -then thickly hovered about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio, -were a powerful obstacle to the increase of this place. On the heights -stand elegant country houses. Farther off ran the road, which was bad -enough, near to the right bank of the Ohio, through a wonderfully lovely -landscape. The valley strongly reminds one of the Maas Valley between -Namur and Lüttich; it is beautifully cultivated; the farms lie close -together; the green hills, and groups of sugar maples and acacias have a -most beautiful appearance. The latter were beginning to blossom, and -filled the air with perfume.[II-30] In the Ohio we saw Neville's island, -which is about seven miles long and one broad, and is well cultivated. -Over two little creeks we passed upon well kept, roofed bridges, and -reached Economy at two, P. M. This place lies on a bluff fifty feet -above the low water mark of the Ohio. Behind the village are some hills -containing springs, whence the water is conveyed in pipes to Economy. - - [Footnote II-30: In the year 1826, I enjoyed _three_ springs; the - first about the end of February at New Orleans, the second at New - Harmony and Louisville, and the third in the state of Ohio, and - west Pennsylvania.] - -In approaching Economy we passed two burning brick-kilns; then we came -to a newly-built house, at which stood three men with horns, who began -to blow on our arrival. At the inn, a fine large frame house, we were -received by Mr. Rapp, the principal, at the head of the community. He is -a gray-headed, and venerable old man; most of the members emigrated -twenty-one years ago from Wurtemberg, along with him. After our first -greeting, we were conducted into a simple but tastefully arranged -apartment. We conversed together for a time, and then all set down to -dinner. The table was furnished with German dishes, over which reigned a -jocund heartiness. - -Having been prejudiced against Mr. Rapp and his society, by what I had -read, and more recently heard at New Harmony, I was much rejoiced at -having visited this place, to be better informed by personal -observation. Never have I witnessed a more truly patriarchal -constitution than here, and men's actions speak best for their -regulations, and for the concord prevailing among them. - -The elder Rapp is a large man of seventy years old, whose powers age -seems not to have diminished; his hair is gray, but his blue eyes -overshadowed by strong brows, are full of life and fire; his voice is -strong, and his enunciation full, and he knows how to give a peculiar -effect to his words by appropriate gesticulation. He speaks a Swabian -dialect, intermixed with a little English, to which the ear of a German -in the United States must become accustomed; generally, what he says is -clearly and plainly delivered. - -Rapp's system is nearly the same as Owen's. Community of goods, and all -members of the society to work together for the common interest, by -which the welfare of each individual is secured. Rapp does not hold his -society together by these hopes alone, but also by the tie of religion, -which is entirely wanting in Owen's community; and results declare that -Rapp's system is the better. No great results can be expected from -Owen's plan, and a sight of it is very little in its favour. What is -most striking and wonderful of all, is that so plain a man as Rapp can -so successfully bring and keep together a society of nearly seven -hundred persons, who in a manner honour him as a prophet. Equally so for -example in his power of government, which can suspend the intercourse of -the sexes. He found that the society was becoming too numerous, -wherefore the members agreed to live with their wives as sisters. All -nearer intercourse is forbidden, as well as marriage; both are -discouraged. However, some marriages constantly occur, and children are -born every year, for whom there is provided a school and teacher. The -members of the community manifest the very highest degree of veneration -for the elder Rapp, whom they address and treat as a father. - -Mr. Frederick Rapp is a large good-looking personage, of forty years of -age. He possesses profound mercantile knowledge, and is the temporal, as -his father is the spiritual chief of the community. All business passes -through his hands; he represents the society, which, notwithstanding the -change in the name of their residence, is called the _Harmony_ Society, -in all their dealings with the world. They found that the farming and -cattle-raising, to which the society exclusively attended in both their -former places of residence, were not sufficiently productive for their -industry, they therefore have established factories, which in this -country are very profitable, and have at present cotton and woollen -manufactories, a brewery, distillery, and flour-mill. They generally -drink, during their good German dinners, uncommonly good wine, which was -made on the Wabash, and brought thence by them: they left the worst, -as I have remarked, at New Harmony. - -After dinner we visited the village, which is very regularly arranged, -with broad rectangular streets, two parallel to the Ohio, and four -crossing them. On the 22d of May it will be but two years since the -forest was first felled upon which _Economy_ is built; the roots still -remaining in the streets are evidences of the short time that has -elapsed. It is astonishing what united and regulated human efforts has -accomplished in so short a time! - -Many families still live in log-houses, but some streets consist almost -entirely of neat, well-built frame houses, at proper distances from each -other, each house has a garden attached to it. The four-story cotton and -woollen factories are of brick; Mr. Rapp's dwelling-house, not yet -completed, and a newly-begun warehouse, are also to be of brick. The -log-houses stand in the rear of the line which the new houses are to -occupy in the street, so that when in time they wish to erect brick -buildings, it may be done without incommoding the tenants of the log -dwellings. Mr. Rapp's residence speaks rather freely against the -equality he preaches to his people, yet without exciting jealousy or -becoming a stumbling block. It consists of a principal building two -stories high, with two lower wings standing in the same line, and is -adorned with beautiful Philadelphia paper. At the back of the house is a -piazza and balcony. There is also a garden containing several acres with -flowers and vegetables, as well as a vineyard, situated on a -terrace-shaped half circle on the hill, ending in a bower. I especially -admired the beautiful tulips of this garden, in the midst of which is a -round basin with a noble spring. Mr. Rapp intends to build a temple -here, in which he will place a statue of Harmony: the statue is now -ready. It is the work of a carver in Philadelphia, and is a colossal -wooden figure, like the figure-head of a ship. In the garden are several -cottages, one of them is roofed with sods, and is used for a pastry -house. On the top is a sort of seat, where hereafter musicians are to -sit; within there is a temporary frame hall. Near the garden is the -green-house; this house, as well as the garden, is under the inspection -of a very pretty girl, Miss Hildegard, a relative of Mr. Rapp, and -possessed of much botanical knowledge. The women of this community have -all preserved their Swabian costume, even to their straw hats, and they -look very becomingly. - -In the cotton and woollen factories, all the machinery is set in motion -by a high-pressure engine of seventy horse-power, made in Pittsburgh. -The machine pumps the water from a well fifty feet deep, sunk for the -purpose. The community possesses some fine sheep, among which are many -Merino and Saxon: they purchase wool, however, from the surrounding -farmers, who have already begun to raise it to bring to Economy. As soon -as the wool is washed, it is picked by the old women of the community, -who work in the fourth story, whence it is reconveyed by a sort of -tunnel into the lower story. The wool is then separated according to its -quality into four classes, dyed together in the dye-house near the -manufactory, returned to the mill, where it is combed, coarsely spun, -and finally wrought into fine yarn by a machine similar to the spinning -jenny. As soon as spun, it is placed in the loom and wrought into cloth, -this is placed in a steam fulling-mill, so arranged that the steam from -the engine is made to answer the purpose of soap and fuller's earth, -which is a great saving. The cloth is shorn by means of a cylinder, upon -which a strong piece of steel turns. There is a model of this -shearing-machine in the patent-office at Washington. The woollen goods -most in demand in this country, are blue middling, grey mixed, -(principally used for pantaloons,) and red and white flannel cloths. The -red flannels are in great demand. - -The cotton factory is employed in spinning and weaving. The printing of -cottons has not yet been attempted, as the stamps cannot be procured -without great expense and difficulty, and the fashions of printed calico -are very changeable. The coloured cottons wove here are blue and white, -mixed; a stuff of this colour much in demand in Tennessee, is called -cassinet, the chain of which is of cotton, and the filling of wool. The -spinning machines are of the common kind, each of which have one hundred -and fifty spools at work. The first machine, which does the coarse -spinning, has been much improved, so as to save a great deal of manual -labour. There are also some power-looms here, though not many, neither -have they at present but one dressing machine. Many of the machines are -made in Pittsburgh; most of them, however, at Economy. As this -establishment has been so recently founded, it is natural enough that -but few machines should be prepared or in operation. The factories and -workshops are warmed during winter by means of pipes connected with the -steam-engine. All the workmen, and especially the females, have very -healthy complexions, and moved me deeply by the warm-hearted -friendliness with which they saluted the elder Rapp. I was also much -gratified to see vessels containing fresh, sweet-smelling flowers -standing on all the machines. The neatness which universally reigns -here, is in every respect worthy of praise. - -After visiting these interesting factories, we went to Mr. Rapp's -temporary dwelling, a good frame house, in order to take tea. I saw here -his unmarried, rather faded daughter, and his blooming grandchild, -Gertrude, the daughter of his only son, concerning whose death such -strange reports are circulated. The table was decorated with beautiful -silver plate, and Rapp appeared to be rejoiced, to indicate by its -possession, his well-merited prosperity. He commenced his business, as -he informed me, with very slender means; when he began at New Harmony, -he had to contend with the bitterest want, and more than once, had not -bread for his community. He sent Frederick Rapp to Pittsburgh, to -procure store goods, and absolutely necessary provisions, upon credit. -The latter found himself generally repulsed, and remained the whole -night awake in Pittsburgh, lamenting the cruelty of mankind. The elder -Rapp, who waited in vain for his return, went to his house, also -lamenting his situation, but not in the least doubtful of Providence, -who watched over him and his; nor was his confidence misplaced. The -heart of one Pittsburgh merchant was moved; he could not rest during the -night for having so scornfully dismissed Mr. Rapp. He sought him early -in the morning, took him to his store, and offered him whatever was -necessary upon credit. In this manner was the society rescued. This -worthy merchant some time after suffered in his business, and on this -unfortunate occasion, the grateful Harmony society assisted him in a -very generous manner. - -We spent the evening likewise with Mr. Rapp. He collected the musical -members of the society, and entertained us with music. Miss Gertrude -played upon the piano, and three of the girls sang; the other -instruments were violins, a violoncello and two flutes. The music was -really not so good as we had heard in the preceding autumn at Bethlehem; -but gave us much entertainment. Mr. Bonnhorst also delighted us with his -fine performance on the violin. The music was principally directed by a -German physician, named Müller, who belongs to the community, and also -has charge of the school. - -The next morning we went with both the Messrs. Rapp through the village. -We visited the distillery, in which good whiskey is made, which is in -much demand in the neighbouring places. None is made use of in the -village itself, as the members of the society have mutually agreed to -abstain from the use of distilled liquors. This distillery feeds many -swine and horned cattle, which produce the society a handsome profit. -The beer brewery from lack of barley, made beer of wheat; this brewery -was not in operation. The flour-mill, not yet completed, is to be worked -by a steam-engine, and is to be arranged like the Baltimore steam-mill. -In a short time four sets of stones will be in operation, and an oil -mill is also to be connected therewith. As careful managers, the -directors of the society, in the upper part of the mill, which is five -stories high, put away grain enough for a year, in order to be secured -against scarcity, which is even in this happy country much to be -dreaded. In the mill as well as in the factories, in each story there is -a great iron cylinder, filled with water, which is thus at hand in case -of fire. The society possesses a fire-engine of their own making, and -have organized a fire company to work it. - -We examined the workshops of the black and locksmiths, which are under -the same shed, and then the joiner's and cooper's; we especially -observed the marks of actual and filial respect which is borne towards -the elder Rapp by his young people. The warehouse was also shown to us, -where the articles made here for sale or use are preserved; and I -admired the excellence of all. The articles for the use of the society -are kept by themselves, as the members have no private possessions, and -every thing is in common, so must they in relation to all their personal -wants be supplied from the common stock. The clothing and food they make -use of, is of the best quality. Of the latter, flour, salt meat, and all -long keeping articles are served out monthly; fresh meat on the -contrary, and whatever spoils readily, is distributed whenever it is -killed, according to the size of the family, &c. As every house has a -garden, each family raises its own vegetables, and some poultry, and -each family has also its own bakeoven. For such things as are not raised -in Economy, there is a store provided, from which members with the -knowledge of the directors, may purchase what is necessary, and the -people of the vicinity may also do the same. The warehouse and store are -for the present in wooden buildings, but in a short time the requisite -brick buildings will be erected. - -Under Mr. Rapp's new house we found a fine roomy cellar, in which he -gave us a very good glass of old Rhenish wine, and also some good wine -made on the Wabash, of which he had twenty-one casks. I tasted a very -dark and powerful wine, made from wild grapes, which grew on an island -in the Wabash. For the first three years it is said that this wine -cannot be drank on account of its sourness; this has been in casks for -eight years and is so much improved, that it now is similar to old -Hungarian wine. - -As we passed along we saw a small deer park, in which the elder Rapp had -amused himself in taming some bucks and does, which would eat out of his -hand. We saw also here a noble young moose deer, which was as large as a -stout ox. He is also very tame, but during the _season_ is dangerous. - -Mr. Rapp finally conducted us into the factory again, and said that the -girls had especially requested this visit, that I might hear them sing. -When their work is done they collect in one of the factory rooms, to the -number of sixty or seventy, to sing spiritual and other songs. They have -a peculiar hymn-book, containing many hymns from the Wurtemberg -psalm-book, and others written by the elder Rapp. The latter are truly -in prose, but have been arranged to old tunes by the girls.[II-31] The -elder Rapp is very fond of psalmody, and the girls must devote -themselves considerably thereto, since Gertrude is a proficient and -receives musical instruction. A chair was placed for the old patriarch, -who sat amidst the girls and they commenced a hymn in a very delightful -manner. It was naturally symphonious and exceedingly well arranged. The -girls sang four pieces, at first sacred, but afterwards by Mr. Rapp's -desire, of gay character. With real emotion did I witness this -interesting scene. - - [Footnote II-31: In this hymn-book are some pieces, which, if the - perfect child-like innocence of these maidens be not recollected, - might appear rather scandalous. For instance, there is a literal - translation of the song of Solomon, among others.] - -We had an excellent dinner in Mr. Rapp's house, and the musical members -of the society took this opportunity to play their best in front of it. -The band consisted of twelve musicians, and performed very well, among -them were two who played bugles. Both the Rapp's, and especially the -elder, advised me strongly to settle in their neighbourhood, and -purchase at ten miles hence, the Beaver Falls on Beaver creek, for -twenty-five thousand dollars. There I might establish iron works, said -they, and make a great deal of money; they and their society would -assist me in every possible manner! - -With peculiar feelings we took leave of the friendly and industrious -Economy, at three o'clock. No payment was received at the tavern, and we -set out through the same beautiful places by which we had come towards -Pittsburgh. Mr. F. Rapp, who had business there, followed us, -accompanied by Gertrude. During this ride I had another opportunity of -admiring the beautiful rocks as we passed by, and particularly the -caverns, probably made in them by water, which remind one of the little -caves near Ems, on the Lahn. - -We stopped at Alleghany town to examine the new and unfinished -penitentiary, which is arranged according to the system of solitary -confinement. The whole is surrounded by a high hexagonal wall. The -principal building, which is of sandstone, is three stories high. This -is to contain the residence of the superintendent, the offices and -infirmary. On two of the other angles of the hexagon are high round -towers, from which the interior of the house can be overlooked, where -the guards are to be stationed. Behind the principal building in the -court-yard, stands a smaller building, containing, besides many cells -for the convicts, the kitchen and wash-house. In a circle which is -interrupted by the above mentioned buildings, stands a one-story -building, containing convict cells, which has one row of entrances near -the inner circular yard, and the other towards the space enclosed by the -hexagonal walls. Each cell is eight feet long by six broad. It contains -a bench, and receives its light through an opening secured by an -external iron grate; within this is a wooden door, which the prisoner -can, at his pleasure, open or shut. Before each cell is a very small -open space. The cells are floored, and provided with iron rings to which -the prisoners may be secured if necessary. These unfortunates have -neither light nor room enough to work; I was informed that each prisoner -was to be allowed to enjoy the fresh air for fifteen minutes daily. In -this way, this new system can scarcely have any other result than that -of destroying the health of the convicts. The prison contains one -hundred and ninety-six cells, and it is said, that next autumn the first -victims are to be sacrificed to a mistaken philanthropy.[II-32] The -expense of maintaining these prisoners, who are not permitted to earn -any thing, will necessarily be considerable. - - [Footnote II-32: [It is to be hoped that the able and luminous - report of the commissioners appointed by the state, to make - inquiries on the subject of penitentiary discipline, will be - sufficient to correct the glaring errors of this _new system_; - which like most of the new systems of the present day, is clearly - proved thereby to be more specious than beneficial. The evidence - accumulated by the commissioners is of a character to satisfy - every candid mind, not chained to the support of a particular - theory, that solitary confinement without labour, is unequal in - operation, inadequate to the end proposed, and promises to be as - destructive to human life as it is discordant to humane - feelings.]--TRANS.] - -On the 20th of May I went with Mr. F. Rapp, who still remained in -Pittsburgh with Gertrude, to visit some manufacturing establishments. -We crossed the Monongahela near its mouth, in a skiff, to a salt-work on -the left bank. With the earth-borer invented in England, and improved in -America, they found salt water at the depth of a hundred feet. As this -water was thought to be too weak, a pipe was placed in the well, and -bored in another place, until at the depth of a hundred feet a -sufficiently strong brine was obtained. The salt water collected and -rose to the top. It is now pumped out by a small steam-engine into a -boiler, where it is boiled for four hours. It is then poured into a -large vat, to the depth of eight inches. It stands in this vat four -hours; a little alum is added to precipitate earthy impurities. Hence, -by a cock situated above the level of the precipitated matters, the -fluid is drawn off into various kettles, in which the now pure brine is -again boiled for four hours. Now the white salt begins to form, and is -skimmed off with large iron ladles. This is a very simple process, saves -expense and room, and appears to me far better than our great -salt-houses. In returning to the city, we saw many iron-works, of which -there are eight in the city and vicinity. One of them is a nail factory; -the nail-cutting machine acts from above, and the workmen holds the rod -to be cut with a pair of tongs, and has to move it at every stroke; -a hammer strikes the nail which falls through in such a manner as to -form the head. We also saw a steam-engine manufactory of considerable -extent. I had seen such an establishment previously in England, but as -most of the machines are made here in parts, one cannot see a great -deal. What most interested me was a double lever, by which the holes are -punched in iron plates for the boilers, which are riveted together; -a work which requires a great degree of exactness. - -We next visited the Union Rolling-mill, near the city, on the bank of -the Monongahela; here also is a nail factory. In the patent-office at -Washington I saw upwards of seventy different models of nail-making -machines. In this factory they were cut by horizontally moving shears, -and at the same time the heads were formed by a hammer. A workman can -make a hundred and fifty pounds of the smaller kind of nails daily. The -preparation of the iron plates from which cut nails are made is very -interesting. The crude pig iron is made white hot in the furnace; it is -thence taken and rolled seven times through, between two iron cylinders, -which are screwed closer together after every revolution. It is then -passed seven times more between two narrow cylinders, which are also -screwed closer after each time the plate passes. By this time the pig is -reduced to a plate less than a quarter of an inch thick. This plate is -again made red-hot, and finally passed between two cylinders, which are -just as broad as the length of the nails to be cut. The piece in the -upper cylinder passes directly in one cut to the lower, where the broad -red-hot plate is cut into as many strips as are wanted. The very -smallest of these are used for making wire. This machinery is set in -motion by a large steam-engine, which works the bellows for the -different furnaces and forges. The whole reminded me of the colossal -iron-works I saw three years ago in South Wales. - -Mr. Rapp accompanied me also to a sieve-maker, who weaves iron and brass -wire, &c. which is done in a loom something like, but longer than a -cloth-loom, in order to extend the wire properly. This one was -twenty-five feet long. Our last visit was to an iron foundry, where, -during our stay, different articles, grates and smoothing irons were -cast. The smoothing irons were cast four in a mould, and while still -red-hot were knocked asunder. - -In the evening we went to the United States arsenal, two miles from the -city, on the Philadelphia road; it is under the command of Major -Churchill of the artillery, who received us at his house and introduced -us to his wife, and four lovely children. This establishment contains a -place of about four acres, lying between the road and the river -Alleghany: the front consists of a large four-story main building, of -sandstone, and two smaller buildings, one of which is the residence of -the directors and the other of the sub-directors. On entering the -court-yard, one sees that the side of the quadrangle facing the front -contains three buildings not yet inhabited, which are barracks, and four -others, workshops for the repair of arms, &c. opposite to these are two -buildings in which are the smith and wheelwright shops. Except the three -fronts, all the buildings are of bricks. The arms are kept in the main -building, where there may be about twenty thousand stand; most of them -are packed in chests: those not packed up, are very tastefully arranged -in the hall, as trophies, &c. An arch of steel is formed over this hall -by eighteen hundred muskets, which has a very beautiful appearance. Both -the adjoining buildings are connected with the centre by roofed -passages, under which are kept cannon of various calibers; most of these -are English, and trophies of the late Commodore PERRY'S victory on Lake -Erie. - -The 21st of May, was Sunday, and at twelve o'clock, I went with Mr. -Bonnhorst to the Episcopal church. I have generally remarked that most -of the fashionable people in the United States, either belong to the -Episcopal church, or at least prefer to attend service there on Sunday. -It is in Pittsburgh _style_ to go to this church, while it would be -unfashionable to visit the Methodist meeting, to which most of the lower -class of people belong. It is a luxury to have a pew in the Episcopal -church, and an especial politeness to invite a stranger to take a seat -in it. I sat in Mr. Bonnhorst's pew, which was rather full, and the air -hot. In consequence of this, I was much incommoded by the frequent -kneelings, as well as by the long psalms, which were sung standing. -We had a very good discourse from a rather youthful preacher upon the -subject of the Trinity, this being Trinity Sunday. The service lasted -two hours. - -Afterwards we paid a visit to Mr. Baldwin, a distinguished lawyer. This -gentleman was formerly a member of congress, and had paper and iron -factories in the vicinity; he however speculated largely, and in five -weeks became a bankrupt. However, Mr. Baldwin lost nothing in public -estimation; his practice as a lawyer produced him a very handsome -income. He walked with us to the point where the Alleghany and Ohio -unite, the former situation of Fort Duquesne, of which no trace now -remains. The English did nothing for this fort, as in the year 1759, it -was evacuated by the French, who could no longer obtain aid from Canada. -The English then demolished the fort, and built one of earth, somewhat -in rear of the old one, called Fort Pitt, whence the name of the city is -derived. Fort Pitt, of which some remains of the walls and a barracks, -now form part of an iron work, appears to have been a pentagon resting -upon both rivers. During the American revolutionary war, this fort, -which was no longer of importance, was abandoned by the English. - -Next day Messrs. Craft and Volz, accompanied me to the cotton factory of -Adams, Allen & Co. Mr. Craft is one of the principal proprietors of the -firm, which does an extensive business, notwithstanding its recent -establishment. The building is of brick, four stories high, and has two -wings standing at right angles. This factory employs two hundred people -daily. All the machinery is worked by a steam-machine of seventy-five -horse-power. The machinery is similar to that in Economy, and the -fabrics made at Economy are copied from this factory, &c. I saw nothing -particularly new, except the machine which picks the cotton, and thus -saves a great deal of filthy manual labour. During winter the factory is -warmed by steam, throughout. - -After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata -foundry, belonging to Mr. Schöneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men -were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in -this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the -year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the -work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the -Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed -to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast -smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden -wheels, turned by a horse-mill. - -We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing -all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western -industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are -brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are -chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for -cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure -white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed -calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven -dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff -for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; -fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still -in its infancy. - -Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a -glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of -the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome -fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of -Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - _Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city._ - - -On the 23d of May, at eight o'clock, we commenced our journey to -Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it -pleased me in every respect, and would have pleased me still more had I -continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, -the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, -I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves -Ramsay's hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses -but twice, at M'Miller's and New Alexandria. These changes are too -distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in -Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. -The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, -and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a -dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and -still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were -almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, -going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle -there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and -northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly -the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here -the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much -disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the -change. - -We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New -Alexandria and Blairsville--all unimportant. The streams were the -Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden -bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our -leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with -much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains -of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, -and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It -was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still -more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of -cultivation. It was eleven o'clock at night before we reached Armagh, -as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o'clock, -A. M. we continued our journey. - -We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, -Blair's Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, -we came to another of the parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. -I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh -and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the -blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These -honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed -this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had -not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined -with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on this mountain, -were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden -trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, -were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with -their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels -itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of -the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to -be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten. - -After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a -tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses -for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of -about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease -than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite -deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, -dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After -leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany -mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed -is called Blair's Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand -feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is -still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means -steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, -which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is -perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of -such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which -adjoins it. - -After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same -remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, -where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group -of good houses, Blair's Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. -This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, -between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is -said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made -at Harper's Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, -and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close -to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, -railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often -passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false -step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our -unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we -remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to -be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable -manner. - -Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side -by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain. Parallel with the -latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this -valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, -Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the -valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its -passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called -Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named -Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky -basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. -The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which -it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could -distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we -passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces -its way. About nine o'clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we -passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the -croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It -resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young -steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred -inhabitants. - -We intended to leave Alexandria at three o'clock, A. M., but the driver -overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o'clock. We -rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; -we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few -miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but -after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior's ride, we returned seven -miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed -bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; -and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general -were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between -Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack's mountains, at the -place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally -cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice -by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the -left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack's mountains -rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the -Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in -Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, -and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, -where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the -Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. -The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the -river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, the high -Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to -Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till -ten o'clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, -though I heard it was very handsome. - -May 26th, we arose at two o'clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant -seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, -Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first -the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the -Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen's Ferry. The water was low, -so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is -already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the -navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we -now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, -Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick's hill to Clark's Ferry, on the -Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the -Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two -high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have -been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the -left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark's Ferry, we had an -extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by -such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake -George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes -place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, -which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave -mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the -Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high -Mount Peter on the other shore. - -At Clark's Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water -was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove -mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna -with its two extremities, not far from Clark's Ferry, and again eight -miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on -the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called -Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run -parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, -afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is -said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a -turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of -which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the -Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of -mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at -Nazareth, then at Harper's Ferry, as I went to the west, and last of -all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to -Charlotteville. - -Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a -cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two -hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the -southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, -and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position -between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may -contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat -of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with -the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding -the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two -buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their -entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand -in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola -sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the -representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a -semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story -contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, -the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a -private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to -form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such -different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are -covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed -with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and -contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden -bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the -river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not -united by mortar, but by iron clamps. - -At two o'clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six -miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was -better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage -quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine -miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome -wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the -Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, -celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by -descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well -cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was -particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the -dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, -whereas the barns are generally built of stone, at least the lower parts -containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn -is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and -on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the -stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the -breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded -by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. -The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near -several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by -means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie -creeks. - -The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm -fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I -had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten -o'clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our -ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded -particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen -very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds. - -I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt -the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; -secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is -very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, -which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took -advantage of the cool morning to view the place. - -Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six -thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each -other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with -side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of -brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame -building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, -in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not -far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian -curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame -gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it -could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the -inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who -conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best -rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take -home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near -the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of -the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent -amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed -wooden bridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles -those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in -Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and -united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, -resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a -single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, -among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, -whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a -Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, -to cool wine. - -On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o'clock, A. M. The -turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles -an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o'clock in the -evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and -Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, -Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a -number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near -which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of -the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the -whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on -which we rode for several miles. - -The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered -with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences -were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built -hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy -poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is -classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We -passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped -with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we -proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for -the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome -attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia -we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house. - -Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. -During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were -renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the -same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. -Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and -returned to his friends at Washington. - -I rode to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, with my old friend Mr. Roberts Vaux, -the philanthropic Quaker, and with Mr. Niederstetter, chargé d'affaires -of the king of Prussia. I had before omitted to visit this -establishment, as the pupils were just leaving their old temporary -dwelling in the city, to move in their newly-built house. This house is -large and massive. It consists of a principal building, which is reached -by means of a portal, decorated with four doric columns; and of two -wings behind it, one of which is inhabited by the boys, and the other by -the girls. There were at that time eighty pupils in the institution, -fifty maintained by the state of Pennsylvania, thirteen by their -families, five by the state of New Jersey, and twelve by the institution -itself. It has now subsisted for six years; at the beginning it was -founded by voluntary contributions and subscriptions; the legislature of -Pennsylvania afterwards gave eight thousand dollars, and the state -annually pays one hundred and fifty dollars for every pupil which it has -placed here. The direction of the institution consists of a president, -four vice presidents, among which was Mr. Vaux, a treasurer, -a secretary, and at this time, twenty-three directors. A principal -teacher, Mr. L. Weld, four tutors, a matron, and two physicians preside -over the house. - -Mr. Weld had passed a long time at Hartford in Connecticut, and had -learned the method of instruction in the deaf and dumb asylum at that -place, which he practises here with great success. He was teaching one -of the lower classes when we arrived. He dictated to the pupils -something on subjects of natural history, which they wrote with great -rapidity on large slates. We put several questions to them, which they -answered with much sagacity. Mr. Niederstetter asked them if they could -form any idea of music; one of the boys answered, he well knew that -there were tones, and that several tones systematically combined made a -sound, but what this was, and how all this was connected together, he -could form no idea. In other rooms, other pupils were engaged in writing -and cyphering. One of them had made much progress in crayon drawing, and -was just working at a portrait of President Adams. The boys learn -trades, several were weaving, others were making shoes, &c., the girls -learn to sew and knit. The clothes, which the pupils wear in the house, -are all made there. They have a common eating room, and each sex has -separate sleeping rooms, where two sleep in one bed; besides, each wing -contains a separate infirmary. Every where I saw the most exemplary -cleanliness and order prevail; the pupils had a very healthy appearance. - -I conversed with some of them in writing; one of them asked me, what was -my favourite study, I answered mathematics. Upon this he wrote to me, -that he was also pleased with this study, but found no opportunity of -making great progress in it. In order to teach the pupils the principles -of arithmetic, a machine is used similar to the Russian. A vegetable -garden behind, and at the sides of the building, which was then -preparing, was intended to serve also as a place of recreation for the -pupils. I could not forbear making to Mr. Weld an especial expression of -the great pleasure which this institution and his method of instruction -gave me. - -I saw the Academy of Fine Arts last autumn, but went there again, as the -exhibition of paintings had been opened. This collection, however, -consisted merely of portraits, and these were rather indifferent. In -general, the fine arts, as I believe has already been mentioned, do not -yet flourish in the United States to a great degree; perhaps this is to -be attributed to the taste of the Americans, which they inherited from -their English ancestors, and which does not appear to be very great for -painting.[II-33] But I rather believe, and this idea president Jefferson -gave me, that the little encouragement which the fine arts receive in -this country is to be attributed to the equal division of property among -the children, so that in large families an estate cannot be long kept -together. - - [Footnote II-33: [This is a very erroneous idea. The taste for - painting and music has not been cultivated, generally, in this - country, on account of the condition of property and society, - which demand of Americans a primary devotion to things absolutely - necessary and useful. As wealth becomes more accumulated, artists - will be encouraged; and then we have no fear of their being long - inferior to the artists of any other nation.]--TRANS.] - -I saw also, in company with Messrs. Vaux and Niederstetter, the mint of -the United States, which is established here. In the year 1793, when -Philadelphia was still the seat of government of the United States, this -mint was located in a newly-built private house, and it is as yet the -only one in the United States. The processes in this mint are very -simple, and but few improvements are yet adapted, which so greatly -distinguish the mints of London and Milan. They were doing but little -when we came; we saw nothing but the stretching of the bars of silver -between cylinders, like those in the rolling mills at Pittsburgh, and -the stamping of the pieces, which was done by means of a contrivance -similar to that by which rivet-holes are made in the iron plates for -steam-engine boilers. We saw, moreover, the cutting of half dollar -pieces, which is done by means of a stamp, worked by two men. A third -stands by to place the uncoined pieces in a box, which are then brought -under the stamp by a particular contrivance. After they are coined, they -fall by means of this contrivance into a box which stands below. Since -1803, no larger silver coins are made than half dollars, as the dollars -were immediately bought up and exported to China for trade, because the -merchants there will take no smaller coins than dollars. We saw also a -collection of medals stamped here, some of which, particularly those -which were struck after naval victories, are very well finished. One -side represents the bust of the naval hero in whose honour the medal was -struck, and the reverse represents the action itself. A golden medal was -struck after the victory of General Jackson at New Orleans, one side -exhibiting the bust of the general, and the reverse a figure -representing the United States pointing to the Muse of History, writing -on a shield the name of New Orleans. The medal which the Agricultural -Society bestows at the annual cattle show, is also handsome. It is to be -regretted, that all the medals, which were struck before president -Monroe's administration, are missing in this collection. The mint itself -is very small, and its boundaries are still more limited by a twelve -horse-power steam-engine. No application, however, is made to congress -for a larger and better building, as it is feared that congress might -then propose to remove the whole establishment of the mint to -Washington. - -We visited the Episcopalian church yard, in which lies Dr. Franklin's -grave, who died in the same year, and rests in the same grave with his -wife. It is near the wall, and covered with a large white marble slab, -with the following inscription:-- - - Benjamin } Franklin - et } 1790. - Deborah } - -I confess these simple words appear to me more eloquent and noble, and -spoke to me in a more affecting manner, than any encomiastic epitaph -could have done. The celebrated Professor Rush, father of the present -secretary of the treasury, is also buried here. This grave-yard, like -the rest in Philadelphia, is in the midst of the city, an evil of which -much is said, but which it would be difficult to remedy. - -Another visit was made to Peale's Museum. I found, however, nothing new, -except a terrible rattlesnake, which was alive, and with two smaller -harmless snakes, formed an extremely ugly ball in a glass case. Its -rattles could not be exactly seen, as they were covered by its flat and -broad body. The body is full of scales, and the head uncommonly broad, -in comparison with the head of other snakes. It was almost stiff, and -only moved the head when any one approached too closely. It had handsome -bright black eyes, and there was a quite small triangular aperture in -the upper lip, through which its long, black, forked tongue was -projected, when irritated. I could not make it open its mouth to see its -teeth. They told me that it was fed with mice, which it first bit, and -after they had died in convulsions, swallowed. Among the many gentlemen -who paid me visits, I mention only Mr. Autenrieth, of Lehigh county, as -he gave me much interesting information concerning the coal mines on the -Lehigh, and at Mauch Chunk, which I intended to visit in a few days. But -I met with a very agreeable surprise in the appearance of the excellent -General Bernard; this worthy officer, whose acquaintance forms one of my -most pleasing recollections of the United States, was to pass but two -days in Philadelphia, in order to advise with a canal commission. -General Bernard is one of the few meritorious men, of whom one hears -nobody speak otherwise than well; and if he had, in an incomprehensible -manner, any enemies, his amiable character would at the first meeting -change them into friends. - -I again met with a very friendly reception on the part of Mr. Arnold -Halbach, and his brother. The former had the kindness to attend me in -several of my excursions, as far as his extensive business would allow. -He is a patron of the fine arts, and as such, took me to two painters of -this place, Eicholz and Birch. The former, from Lancaster, is the son of -a coppersmith, in which occupation he himself worked, but having a -talent for portrait painting, he has devoted himself thereto with much -success. His portraits have the merit of strong resemblance, and are -also tolerably well, and correctly painted. The other artist, Birch, -possesses a very fine talent for landscape painting, and particularly -for sea-pieces. I had hoped to meet with views of the United States at -his house, but was disappointed. Mr. Birch told me that landscape -painters found so little encouragement in the United States, that they -lost all courage to design handsome scenes in their native country. His -sea-pieces are very handsome, but none are entirely completed. He is -particularly happy in representing storms. Whilst Mr. Eicholz, with -moderate talents, does much business, Mr. Birch, with great talent, -is often a prey to severe distress.[II-34] - - [Footnote II-34: [The reason is, that the portrait painter - ministers to the gratification of personal vanity, or self-love, - and the landscape painter to a refined taste. As the proportion of - egotists to men of refined and cultivated taste, is somewhat less - than a million to one, it is easy to see which branch of the arts - will receive most attention.]--TRANS.] - -I saw at the house of a dealer in looking-glasses, a gallery of pieces -by living painters, among others, of Sully. One of these paintings is -really terrific. It represents a man, who, with his horse, is attacked -and entwined by an anaconda. The expression of pain in the horse is very -well represented, but the countenance of the man, as well as the whole -subject, is horrid. Few of the paintings were very remarkable; I was -most pleased with one by Birch: a boat in a storm, in which the crew -were saving themselves from a wreck. - -I inquired, in company with Mr. Niederstetter after maps, but the result -was not very satisfactory. It is very difficult to furnish maps of the -United States, as they have not yet been trigonometrically surveyed, and -the only astronomical designation of places and maps are founded on -common surveys. At a dinner given by General Cadwalader, commander of -the Philadelphia militia, and one of the most distinguished citizens, -among other new acquaintances, I made also that of General Harrison, of -Cincinnati, senator of the United States. He had been a general in the -army during the last war, and defeated the English General Proctor, -on the boundaries of Canada, on which occasion, the celebrated Indian -chief, Tecumseh lost his life. But the general, to the great regret and -disadvantage of the army, resigned, on account of a dispute with the -then secretary of war, Armstrong. - -At a party, which consisted of perhaps thirty persons, I was much -questioned about my journey, and particularly about my stay at New -Harmony. Mr. Owen's system does not meet with much favour here, and it -is not thought that his society will last long. Much offence is taken at -its irreligious principles, and much surprise is manifested, that Mr. -M'Clure, as an old, learned and sensible man, should have been so -captivated by this new system, as to declare in a meeting of a learned -society, when a proposition was made to buy a new building, that they -should only wait a couple of years, till this new social system should -be extended over the country, as land would then be so cheap in the -cities, that it might be purchased almost for nothing. - -I must not neglect to mention a little present from Mr. Vaux. It is a -snuff-box, made of the wood of the elm tree at Kensington,[II-35] under -which William Penn made the treaty of 1682, with the Indians. It is very -simple, and decorated merely with a silver medal, on which is inscribed -"Penn's treaty, 1682," and below, "unbroken faith." - - [Footnote II-35: Kensington was formerly a distinct village, on - the Delaware above Philadelphia; the city has now extended thus - far, so that it now belongs to the city. The tree was some years - ago struck by lightning and destroyed.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - _Journey from Philadelphia to New York.-- Coal-mines of Pottsville - and Mauch Chunk.-- Bethlehem._ - - -I left Philadelphia, June 3d, at four o'clock in the morning, to see the -coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains, and then pay another visit to my -friends in Bethlehem; after which, I must repair to New York, as to my -great sorrow, the time for my embarkation approached. I rode fifty-two -miles in a mail stage to Reading. Notwithstanding a gust on the previous -evening, it was again very warm, and on the latter part of the journey -particularly, we were much incommoded by dust. - -At first we took the same way, which I had taken last autumn to -Bethlehem, through Sunville, Germantown, and Chesnut Hill. The present -appearance of the country was very different from its aspect at that -rough season of the year. Every thing was now alive and green, and the -numerous and elegant gardens of Germantown, were filled with the -beautiful flowers. Although this place is three miles long, it presents -no tedious uniformity. The various country-seats of the wealthy -inhabitants of Philadelphia, which are tolerably close to each other, -rather present an agreeable change. Chesnut Hill affords a very -extensive view over the surrounding handsome and thickly inhabited -country. The valley of the Schuylkill appeared to particularly great -advantage, which by means of dams and canals, made near shallow places, -is navigable till beyond the Blue Mountains. Beyond Chesnut Hill, we -left the above-mentioned road and turned on the left to Norristown, -a very romantic place on the left side of the Schuylkill. Before -reaching this, we passed extensive marble quarries, which are about one -hundred feet deep, and form very picturesque hollows. The blocks are -raised by means of machines, worked by horses. This marble is gray, and -is used in the fire-places of most of the respectable houses in -Philadelphia. Several of the mile-stones on our road were also made of -this marble. The cuttings are partly burned to lime and partly thrown on -the turnpike. The turnpike, as an American one, was on this route -tolerably good. - -Beyond Norristown we again rode through a very handsome country. Between -Chesnut Hill and the marble quarries, we passed a good stone bridge over -the Wissahiccon creek, which turns many mills. Between Norristown and -Trap, a small place through which the road runs, we passed two other -creeks, the Skippar and Perkiomen creeks, and at Pottsgrove, over a -third, called Monataway creek, which here empties into the Schuylkill. -The road then went over a hilly country through Warrensburg and -Exertown, and over the Mannokesy and Rush creeks. At last we saw -Reading, in a lovely valley. It had a military aspect, as a company of -volunteers had held a review to-day, and were recreating themselves at a -tavern near the town, after their toils. At five o'clock we reached -Trautman's tavern, where we found good lodgings. - -Reading contains about five thousand inhabitants; it consists of a long -principal street, which is very wide, in the middle, and of several -other streets, which cross it at right angles. The place depends on -agriculture and some manufactories. Many hats, especially felt hats, are -made here, which are sent in great numbers to the slave states and the -West Indies. I here visited Mr. Hiester, former governor of -Pennsylvania. This worthy old man bears his age, which is seventy-four -years, remarkably well. He took me to his son-in-law, Dr. Muhlenberg, -the German Lutheran minister of this place, son of the celebrated -naturalist and learned man of this name, who died about ten years ago. -We took tea at his house, and then walked to the Schuylkill, over which -a covered wooden bridge led. We saw also a part of the canal, on which -coal is brought to Philadelphia from the upper parts of the Schuylkill. -Here at Reading, this canal ascends four locks, which appear to be built -in a tolerably solid manner. It made a strange impression on me to hear -every person speak German. On the road from Philadelphia, I had every -where heard this language; but in Reading scarcely any thing else than -German is spoken, and better than I had heard in the state of Ohio, -or in Lancaster. Reading possesses a good German school under Dr. -Muhlenberg's direction, in which this language is taught in its purity. -He himself has a numerous and selected library of English and German -books. Two canal boats run at present alternately every week between -Philadelphia and Reading, in which about one hundred travellers may be -accommodated. They leave the one place at three o'clock in the morning, -and reach the other about five o'clock in the evening. - -I hired at Reading a carriage with two horses, for three dollars a day, -in order to visit the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains. I left -Reading at seven o'clock in the morning, and rode thirty-six miles to -Pottsville. We passed over a turnpike, which was occasionally very -rough. It several times led us in the neighbourhood of the canal, the -surface of which is about thirty feet wide on an average. It is lead by -means of wooden boxes over several deep streams. Between Reading and -Pottsville there are about eighty locks, several of which we passed; at -one time I saw seven together, which formed a very pleasing sight. About -noon we reached a little German place, called Hamburg, half way to -Pottsville, at the foot of the Blue Mountains, not far from the -Schuylkill and its canals. On the road to Hamburg, we passed but one -creek which had a name, Maiden creek. I dined at Hamburg, and met, as it -was Sunday, a number of idlers, all Germans, assembled in the tavern. -Several Germans of education in the United States, made the remark to -me, which I found but too true, that next to the Irish, the Germans form -the roughest portion of the emigrants. The truth of this remark again -forced itself on my attention in Hamburg, and especially in the case of -a young doctor, who had formerly studied in several German universities, -and gave vent to his giddiness in a vulgar manner. It was the first time -in the United States that the _affectation_ of republicanism arrested my -attention. - -Not far beyond Hamburg, we came to a defile where the Schuylkill forces -a passage through the Blue Mountains. This narrow vale was very -romantic, and my interest in the scene was greatly increased by the -numberless blooming kalmias, improperly called laurel, the rhododendra, -which offered a splendid sight amidst the rich vegetation of chesnut -trees, butternuts, oaks, elms, sycamores, blooming tulip-trees, and -sumacs. How frequently I thought of the great pleasure which my father -would enjoy, if he could travel with me among these mountains, and -admire the treasures of the vegetable world with his experienced eye! -The way led along a mountain over the Schuylkill, which lay deep below -me. It forms here a curve, and is made navigable by means of dams, as -there was too little room to continue the canal on the side of it. After -we had passed the chief defile of the Blue Mountains, we left for a time -the navigable Schuylkill with its canal, and passed through a narrow -vale, through which the little Schuylkill flows, which is covered with -kalmias, rhododendrons, and some azaleas. Afterwards came another vale, -formed by Scrub Hill and Scollop Hill; then a long mountain, called -Limestone Ridge. Beyond this mountain we reached Orwigsburg, which, -entirely enclosed by mountains, occupies a romantic situation; it is -built in the form of a cross, and contains about eight hundred -inhabitants. We rode farther, through a valley covered with trees, again -reached the Schuylkill with its canal, and at length arrived at -Pottsville. - -This place is scarcely to be found in any map, as it arose but three or -four years ago, and owes its existence to the neighbouring coal-mines. -The navigation of the Schuylkill commences here; this is the place where -the vessels which navigate this canal and river, small keel-boats, are -built. A couple of saw-mills are erected for this purpose, as well as a -high furnace, in which the iron ore found in the neighbourhood is -smelted. The coal-mines are worked under the direction of the Schuylkill -Coal Company, which has made the Schuylkill navigable at its own -expense, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia and New York. -A bushel of coal, weighing eighty pounds, is sold at Philadelphia for -twenty-five cents. The river was made navigable only about eighteen -months ago, and it is only since this time, that they have commenced to -dig out coal. - -Pottsville consists of a single street, lying in a somewhat narrow vale -on the right shore of the Schuylkill, and owes its name to a Mr. Pott, -who commenced the first iron works. The entrances of two coal-mines are -seen on the shore opposite the place; there are some which, however, are -not worked on account of scarcity of labourers. I became acquainted in -our tavern with a Mr. Baker from New York, who is one of the chief men -in this undertaking, as well as with a Mr. Taylor, editor of the paper -called the Miner's Journal, which bears a good character. - -I rode with these two gentlemen to the coal-mines, two miles and a half -from Pottsville, and not far from Norwegian creek. The coal appears -almost on the surface of the ground, in which a certain dark colour -denotes its presence. No one thoroughly understands the business of -coal-mining, and therefore it has hitherto been conducted in a very -unsystematic and expensive manner. Shafts are made wherever it is -thought that coal would be found, and when a vein is discovered it is -worked. The veins run from east to west, and then descend in a southern -direction at an angle of forty-five degrees; between the veins, slate is -commonly found about twelve feet thick. Under the lower layer of slate, -coals have been again discovered by boring, but have not yet been -farther worked. The shafts are not much above twenty feet deep; the -coals are brought up in buckets by means of two windlasses; at one place -machinery worked by a horse is employed for this purpose. One shaft -contains water, which, as the pumps are not yet in order, must be drawn -out in buckets in a very tedious and expensive manner. The coal is of a -superior quality, burns very well, and contains no sulphur. About fifty -men work in the mines, each of which on an average receives monthly -fifteen dollars. Hitherto the society has employed thirty vessels to -transport the coals to Philadelphia. They are brought from the mines in -large wagons to the head of the navigation, and are weighed before -unloading. A profit of a certain amount is expected to arise from the -working of these mines, which, however, will only be properly -calculated, when the mines are worked more systematically. They design -to connect the works with the river, which certainly would be a -considerable saving, by means of a rail-road. A mountain, which runs -parallel with that containing the mines, and which is yet covered with -trees, is also said to contain great quantities of coal, but has not yet -been worked. - -After this fatiguing excursion, as I had seen most of the mines, I left -Pottsville on the 5th of June, and rode forty miles to Mauch Chunk at -the junction of a creek of this name with the Lehigh. After passing -Orwigsburg we turned to the left towards M'Keansburg, through a woody -valley not well settled, and this only near Pine creek. M'Keansburg is a -small place, and lies on an eminence, which affords a prospect of a -romantic valley, through which Little Schuylkill flows. M'Keansburg -adjoins on one side a wood swarming with locusts, which made so much -noise that they might be heard at a great distance. These locusts are -seldom seen, and their present appearance is ascribed to the uncommonly -dry spring. I walked among the trees, and found under the stones several -crystallizations; I found among others, a stone perfectly resembling a -petrified bird's head with the beak. Many vegetable petrifactions, such -as fern and leaves of the kalmia, are found in the slate between the -veins of coal. I was told that the impression of a whole collection of -snakes was found in a cavity in the slate, and that the impressions of -the heads, particularly, were very distinct. - -After leaving M'Keansburg we passed valleys and mountains, and reached, -in this manner, the narrow and romantic valley of the Lehigh, by a very -steep road. Lehighton, which lies at a junction of Mahoning creek and -the Lehigh, consists of but few houses, and is supported in a miserable -manner; because the land is too hilly and rough for cultivation, and the -industrious village of Mauch Chunk, which is but three miles distant, -withdraws from it all support. The country, however rough and -unproductive as it may be for those who wish to live here, would afford -a particular enjoyment to a botanist, and a lover of his science, by its -rich and blooming vegetable productions. - -It began to grow dark when we reached Lehighton, I nevertheless -continued on the road; this grew narrow, was partly cut out of the rock, -and closely approached the right shore of the Lehigh as far as Mauch -Chunk, which we reached after dark, and in a storm. I took lodging in -the only inn, which, however, is very good and respectable, and kept by -a quaker, Mr. Atherton. The place has only existed four years, and owes -its origin to the neighbouring mines, which, with all the surrounding -country, belongs to the Lehigh Coal Company; a company which possesses a -large capital, has existed longer than its rival in Pottsville, and -conducts its operations more systematically. One of the most important -stockholders is a quaker, Mr. White, who lives here, and has properly -created every thing, and directs every thing himself. He visited me the -same evening, and appeared to be a plain Friend, who however has -reflected much on the good of mankind, and speaks very well. - -On the next morning Mr. White took me about the place; it lies in a very -narrow vale surrounded with high mountains, which rise out of the Lehigh -and are covered with trees. The company has made the Lehigh navigable, -or rather is at present engaged in this work, by means of dams, locks -and canals, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia with ease and -cheapness. - -The canal, in which two locks stand at a distance of one hundred and -thirty feet from each other, is thirty feet wide between the locks, the -sides of which are covered with planks; behind this covering a wall has -been erected, the crevices of which are filled with a liquid mortar. Mr. -White calculates, that the covering of wood will last about thirty -years, and that during this time, the wall will unite with the mortar -and form a kind of rock. Neither the locks, nor the canal were finished, -so that there was as yet but a temporary navigation. The coal is put -into flat boats six feet wide and ten feet long; these are attached, two -together and five behind each other, so that a kind of raft of ten -boats, or rather a box is formed. When this raft arrives at -Philadelphia, and the coal unloaded, these boats are taken to pieces, -the boards sold, and all the iron which was in them, brought back to -Mauch Chunk in carts. Two saw-mills are in constant operation for the -building of these boats, the timber is previously cut in form, so that -practised workmen may nail together such a boat in an hour. But as soon -as the canal and the locks are finished, even this navigation so -expensive and destructive to the wood, will cease, and coal be -transported in steam-boats, which will pass up and down the river and -canal. The banks of the canal are covered with stones, or rather -formally paved, so that they may not suffer from the action of the -wheels. The coal is taken from the mine in wagons to the place where it -is put into boats, and there weighed. After this the carts move upon a -disk which turns, where the horses are quickly unharnessed. The carts -are then raised by means of a machine, worked by a horse, and when they -have attained a certain height, are brought in an oblique position, so -that the coals fall out into a kind of enclosure, where they remain till -wanted; the boats are loaded by means of moveable broad iron gutters, -which are elevated or depressed according to the height of the water. -Grates are put in this gutter, so that the coals which are too small, -and the dust, fall through, and merely the larger pieces fall into the -vessel. - -Considerable quantities of iron ore are found near Mauch Chunk, in a -sandy state, and near the surface of the earth, which is melted in -furnaces, erected for this purpose. But they have not yet succeeded in -doing this by means of stone coal, and are obliged to use charcoal. This -iron is used to make rail-roads, which lead to the most important -coal-mine, nine miles distant. They will facilitate the transportation -of the coal to the water in a very great degree, and make this at least -three-fourths cheaper. Iron carts are to be used on this rail-road. Its -ascent to the mine amounts to one foot in a hundred; the empty carts are -to be drawn up by horses, each of which draws four at the rate of three -miles an hour; when they are loaded, they are carried to the river by -their own weight, and make the passage in less than an hour. When they -reach a certain point not far from the river, they are sent down an -inclined plane, at an angle of forty-five degrees, and by means of -machinery yet to be attached, they draw the empty carts by their weight -up this plane. - -A very good turnpike, now leads to this important mine, nine miles from -Mauch Chunk, along the romantic valley of the same name, which ascends -but two feet in a hundred, so that we could trot the whole way. I went -in company with Mr. White. The mountain is imperceptibly ascended, and -it occasions surprise, when, after a ride of eight miles, the woods, -which cover the mountains are left, to see Mauch Chunk creek, whose -shore has apparently just been left, rushing deep below, and at the top -of the mountain to find oneself in a coal-mine. It is a highly -interesting sight, and alone worth a passage across the ocean. The coal -does not here run in veins, but the whole mountain consists of a solid -mass of coal, covered with a layer of clay at most a foot thick. The -earth assumes a dark colour six inches below the surface; coal dust a -foot and a half thick, is found at the depth of one foot, then comes the -coal in small pieces, which are not used, but at a foot deeper the solid -coal begins, which is broken off and sold. They have hitherto bored to -the depth of sixty feet, and found nothing but the purest coal; they -have however, dug but forty feet deep, and prefer working horizontally -rather than perpendicularly. Except some veins of slate, which as solid -rocks are not more than two feet thick, no heterogeneous substances are -found among the coal. This is entirely black, and only those parts which -are more or less exposed to the weather, are iridescent. - -These mines, which are not subterraneous, occupy at present a space of -nearly four acres. An iron wedge forced by a hammer is used to break the -coal. The stratum of coal is partly horizontal and partly at an angle of -forty-five degrees; it seems as if it had been once elevated and broken -by a subterraneous power. The workmen are paid daily, gain about -eighteen dollars a month, and occupy several houses not far from the -mine. They have dug a well in the stratum of coal, which furnishes pure -and good drinking water. - -We rode back to Mauch Chunk on the excellent road, made altogether on -account of the mine. There is a place on the road where iron sand is -dug, and whence runs a chalybeate spring, which leaves settlings of -ochre. Two miles from Mauch Chunk we ascended the hill, on the other -side of which, again quantities of coal are found. It is, however, very -difficult to reach the layer on this high and steep hill, and the -transportation of coals thence to Mauch Chunk would be attended with -great inconvenience and expense. To obviate this, the company is cutting -through the hill at a certain height, a tunnel in the rock, by which -means the stratum may, to use the expression, be reached by the rear, -and the conveyance of the coals be much facilitated. This tunnel is to -be ten feet high and fifteen wide, with a rail-road in the middle. They -have cut through two hundred feet already, and have yet one hundred and -twenty feet to work, before they reach the coal. This labour is -fatiguing and tedious; twelve men work day and night. They blast the -rocks with powder, and advance but one foot in twenty-four hours. - -In the valley of Mauch Chunk creek, along the road, two furnaces are -erected in order to cast the pieces necessary for the rail-road, to -avoid their transportation and to accelerate the work on the road. Two -saw-mills have also been built in this valley, but the water in the -creek is generally too low to depend much on their assistance in such -works. The company employs about one thousand eight hundred workmen, who -live partly near the mine, but generally in small houses in the place -belonging to the company. Their habitations form a street along Mauch -Chunk creek, nearly half a mile long. A great number of them are married -and have their families with them. The company has given them a -clergyman, and a school with a good teacher, to instruct their children. -A massive mill is also erected near the creek, in which all the flour -necessary for the place is ground; the country is too rough for culture; -the company exchanges in a very profitable manner coal for grain. -Meadows have, however, been laid out in the valley, in order to gain the -necessary hay for one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here. -The creek also works bellows, by means of which the necessary draft of -air is preserved in the furnaces and in the forges. - -A store belonging to the society, and furnished with all the necessary -articles, is also kept here. In this the workmen and their families -receive the necessary articles, the price of which is deducted from -their wages. Every workman has his leaf in a large book, wherein his -account stands, and besides a small pass-book, wherein a copy of his -account is written. Every month, or if the workman prefers oftener, -a settlement is made, and he receives a note on the treasurer for the -money owing to him, unless he wishes it to remain in the treasurer's -hands. The company makes a great profit in this manner, and the greater -part of the money expended flows back again into its treasury. The -ground three miles up and down the Lehigh, belongs to the company, so -that no one can dispute with them the monopoly of keeping a store. If -other companies should be formed to dig coals in the mountains above -Mauch Chunk, where great quantities are said to be found, they could not -gain much, as this society has taken possession of the only outlet, the -Lehigh, and on account of the locks could lay many difficulties in the -way with regard to the transportation of other coal. - -I visited Mr. White in his tasteful house on the declivity of a -mountain, whence he may see the whole of Mauch Chunk. He has a park -behind his house, with tame game, which eat out of his hands. They -consist of two stags and a female elk and her young one, which is -already nearly as large and strong as a horse. They were obliged to -shoot the male elk last autumn, as he attacked Mr. White and gave him -eight wounds in the legs, with his horns, which confined the poor man -about a month to his bed. The assistant of Mr. White ran to aid him, but -received some wounds himself in the body, and would have been killed by -the furious animal, if, at the cry of the two unfortunate men, a number -of people had not hastened with poles and clubs to relieve them. - -At five o'clock in the evening, I left the interesting Mauch Chunk and -went sixteen miles on the road to Bethlehem, as far as Cherryville. At -Lehighton I took the left shore of the Lehigh passing two small creeks, -Big creek, and Aquanshicola creek, and at last, (for the fifth time,) -the Blue Mountains, through Lehigh Water Gap. This country must be very -handsome, and it was with regret that I saw so little of it, but it -began to grow dark, was very rainy weather, and thick clouds covered the -Blue Mountains. Two miles from Water Gap we passed through a small place -called Berlinville, and were yet two miles distant from Cherryville. -In the darkness we could not see the posts which stand wherever roads -cross, and there was no turnpike. We accordingly lost our way, and at a -cross road knew not which direction to take. We ran about in the rain -and the darkness, but found nothing which could have directed us. At -last we took a road at random, fortunately the right one! But it was -midnight before we reached Cherryville, where we found lodgings in a -very good tavern. This whole country is inhabited by Germans, and the -German language is the only one spoken. - -Cherryville consists of but few houses, has, however, an open and -handsome situation, and the roads in the vicinity are planted with -handsome and large cherry trees, whence the name of the place. I left -this place, June 7th, at eight o'clock in the morning, and rode fourteen -miles to much-esteemed Bethlehem. We passed through two small places, -Kreiderville and Howardtown, and through a well-cultivated country; the -grain and fruit, however, were suffering much from the drought, and -beyond Howardtown we rode in a thick cloud of dust. I was uncommonly -pleased, and felt quite at home, when, on leaving the woods, I saw the -friendly Bethlehem before me. But it was quite different from what it -was last autumn; it was then cold, and the trees beginning to lose their -leaves; now summer had given every thing new life. - -At Bethlehem I went to my old quarters at Bishop's tavern, and soon -after my arrival visited the worthy Mr. Frueauf. He was the more pleased -with my visit, as no one in Bethlehem believed that I would fulfil my -promise of returning, except himself. He took me to his brother-in-law, -the Reverend Mr. von Schweinitz, who, at the very time I was at -Bethlehem last autumn, had visited my father in Weimar, and spoken with -my wife. Mr. von Schweinitz is on the mother's side a great grandson of -Count von Zinzendorf, and the brother of a deceased Lieutenant von -Schweinitz, with whom I had been in early years in a company of the -Saxon Guards. He is a very agreeable man, who unites a polished -education with an excellent character. At dinner I met with pleasure -with the old Dr. Stickel. After dinner I walked with Mr. Frueauf and Mr. -von Schweinitz, across Lehigh bridge, to a promenade along the river, -leading to a semicircular place. Benches were placed here, and a spring -was overarched to keep wine, &c. cool. We then went below the garden of -the girl's school to the mill of the congregation, where there is also a -place under a handsome linden tree, affording a very pleasing view into -the vale. But Mr. von Schweinitz was unfortunately obliged to leave here -this afternoon on business of the society, and I could enjoy his -extremely agreeable acquaintance but for a short time. - -I now visited Bishop Hueffel and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. I went again with -the latter to the girl's school, and again admired the great order which -reigns there, and the handsome and fine work of the girls. In the -evening I was present at service in the church; but it was not well -attended, and consisted merely in singing several hymns, which Mr. -Seidel sang, accompanied by a good organ. This devotional exercise -occupied perhaps half an hour, and takes place every evening. The rest -of the evening I spent in a very agreeable manner, at Mr. Seidel's -house, in company with Bishop Hueffel and Mr. Frueauf. - -The following day passed in a very agreeable manner. I read several -allemanic poems of Hebel with Mr. Frueauf, who played to me on his -piano, which instrument must not be wanting in any house here; these -poems may well be called Pennsylvanian, as they are written in a dialect -which is spoken here, especially in Lancaster county and in the western -country. Bishop Hueffel showed me his handsome collection of sketches of -great masters, which are selected with much taste and science, as well -as several other good paintings and drawings. This worthy Bishop, is a -man of polished education, in whose society nothing but profit can be -obtained, on which account I was particularly sorry that I could not -longer stay at Bethlehem. I also visited the sister's house, and these -maidens, who have grown old in honour, seemed to be much pleased with my -repeated visit. I was obliged to go through all the rooms, sit with -several, and tell them of my travels, which was done with the greatest -pleasure. I found many of them employed in making hats of fine chips of -the ash tree. These are woven in a loom like a bolting cloth, then cut -and sewed into hats. A merchant of this place made this speculation, -sells the hats at three quarters of a dollar a piece, and is said to do -much business. - -But I could stay no longer. I left Bethlehem at five o'clock in the -afternoon, with much regret, and rode twelve miles to Easton. The road -led through a country tolerably hilly, and partly woody, but generally -very well cultivated, and through one small place called Butstown. I had -for several days past remarked, that instead of fences, dry walls were -made in a very neat manner, consisting of numerous stones gathered from -the fields. Easton, which I reached at seven o'clock, is a flourishing -place of about three thousand inhabitants. It lies in a valley at the -junction of the Delaware and Lehigh. The shores of both rivers, -especially of the latter, are high; in this are also many rocks, and the -country offers a number of picturesque views. The Delaware forms the -boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey; Easton on the right side -belongs to the former. The place is regularly built. The greatest part -of the houses are built of brick, though there are also some of stone. -A large square place stands in the middle, surrounded with a row of -Lombardy poplars, in the centre of which the Court-house is erected. -I found these poplars in Pennsylvania, and especially in the eastern -parts, preferred as an ornamental tree; in the greater part of the -villages the streets, and even the roads, for some distance are planted, -and some farms are surrounded with them. But it is said they attract -insects, which infest the houses, on which account they have been rooted -up in many places, as for instance, in the streets of New York; in -Pennsylvania, on the contrary, to obviate this evil, their trunks as far -as the branches, are covered with whitewash. The butternut tree, the -leaves of which resemble those of the ash, is also used as an ornamental -tree. At Easton a roofed wooden bridge leads over the Delaware, resting -on two stone piers, and is about two hundred and seventy-seven paces in -length. Like the generality of these bridges, it is divided into two -parts lengthwise, in order that wagons may not meet each other. -A handsome chain bridge, about two hundred and ten paces in length, -leads over the Lehigh. It is divided into three parts lengthwise; the -extreme parts being for wagons and horses, and the middle and smallest -for foot passengers. This bridge was erected ten years ago, and though -it has borne heavy loads, has not yielded in the least degree. - -I received in the evening visits from several Germans, who live in the -place, among whom I mention particularly a physician, Dr. Muller, Mr. -Schumann, and Mr. Till, from Bethlehem. The latter is a teacher of music -and an instrument maker, in Easton. Mr. Schumann was sent to the -seminary of the Moravians at Gnadenfeld in Silesia to become a minister. -Not being pleased with this, he left Gnadenfeld, visited several German -universities to study medicine, returned to America, and now dedicates -himself in Easton to the law. - -A military academy was founding in Easton, of which great expectations -were formed. It was a private undertaking by Mr. Constant. Since it has -been seen, that the military academy at West Point furnishes such -excellent subjects, a strict military education is becoming more and -more popular in the northern states. The number of pupils at West Point -is too limited to admit all the young men for whom application is made. -A captain Partridge, who was formerly an officer at West Point, but -condemned to be cashiered by a court-martial on account of an act of -insubordination towards General Swift and Lieutenant-colonel Thayer, has -founded a military school at his own expense at Middletown, in -Connecticut, in which he is said to give a very good education and solid -instruction to the young men entrusted to him. The result of these -schools shows more and more the advantage of a military education, and -awakens a spirit of competition among individuals to erect similar -schools. - -I left Easton, June 9, at four o'clock, in the mail stage, and rode -through New Jersey to New York, seventy-two miles. We passed the -Delaware, and rode on a good turnpike, through a hilly, well-cultivated -country, and through some unimportant places to a tolerably high -mountain, called Schooley's Mountain, where there is a mineral spring -much frequented in summer. We afterwards came to a neat place in a -handsome valley, called German Valley; then passing through Chester and -Mondham, also handsome places, we came to Morristown. All these places -in New Jersey are well located, containing generally brick and some -large houses; the streets are wide, planted with poplars, and in the -centre of each place is a roomy square opening, in the midst of which -stands a high pole, whence the national flag waves on public days. -Churches also are not wanting; I saw four in Morristown, which appears -to contain about one thousand inhabitants. The churches have here -generally high and white steeples, so that they may be seen at a -considerable distance. We came also through a small place, Springfield, -and then reached Elizabethtown, a very handsome place, surrounded with -neat country-seats, the greater part of which belong to rich inhabitants -of New York. After a short delay we left Elizabethtown, rode two miles -farther through a meadow ground, much like Holland, and reached a bay. -Here we left the stage, and went on board the steam-boat Bellona, being -about fourteen miles distant from New York. This bay is properly an -inland lake, and is called Newark bay, after a town on it of the same -name. It receives its water from two streams, Passaic and Hackensack, -and communicates with the sea towards the south through Staten Island -sound, and on the east with the bay of New York through the channel of -Castleton, through which we also passed. We had on the left a cape -belonging to New Jersey, and on the right Staten Island belonging to New -York. As it was narrow here we could see with great ease the handsome -country-seats and gardens on both shores. But we enjoyed the handsomest -and most unexpected sight, as we entered the bay of New York. On the -right was the beautiful shore of Staten Island with Castleton, then the -quarantine, where, besides several other vessels, lay a Swedish -line-of-battle ship, which being sold to the Colombian government, -remained here on account of some difficulties in the payment; beyond the -Narrows the sea, then Fort La Fayette; we had in front of us the shore -of Long Island, and on the left the bay of New York, with the forts on -Governor's and Bedlow's Island, and between in the back ground the city -of New York, with its pointed spires and forest of masts, in the North -and East rivers. This sight is wonderfully beautiful, and well deserves -to be represented as a panorama. Arrived in the bay, we turned to the -left, passed the above-mentioned fortified islands, left Bedlow's island -and the slightly fortified Ellis's island, passed Castle-garden, and -landed from the North river at seven o'clock in the evening. -I immediately repaired to the City Hotel in Broadway, where I had lodged -last autumn, and occupied again the same apartment which I then did. - -I leave it the reader to imagine with what remarks and feelings I again -entered this place. I gratefully turned to the Great Master of Life, who -had so manifestly protected me during this long journey, and brought me -back again to this place in health! - -I passed at this time but few days in New York, and I mention but a few -circumstances. I was indeed very busy during these days, but almost -every thing was done with a view to my departure. - -I made a visit to Colonel Burr, who was a vice-president of the United -States at the commencement of this century, and a rival of Mr. Jefferson -for the presidency, which was decided in favour of the latter by the -vote of Mr. Claiborne. In consequence of this election, Colonel Burr -fought a duel with General Hamilton, in which the latter was killed. -Burr afterwards went to the western states, and, as it was said, -intended to detach these from the eastern, and form them into a separate -state. His plan was, however, discovered, and he was arrested, but -acquitted for want of sufficient proof. He then travelled through -Europe, and now lives at New York as a lawyer. During his travels in -Europe, he came, in 1810, to Weimar, and spoke of a remarkably good -reception on the part of my father. I found him to be a little old man, -with very lively eyes, who spoke very well. - -As I went to pay a visit to Mr. Zimmermann, consul of the Netherlands, -a fire occurred in a tar manufactory near his house. It was fortunately -checked by the excellent fire companies, before it extended. I had -scarcely remarked the fire when the bells were rung, and fire cried in -all the streets. In less than five minutes engines arrived, each drawn -by about thirty people, by means of two long ropes. In New York numerous -fire companies exist, among whom the different engines are divided. The -members of these companies have voluntarily engaged themselves for this -laborious service, and are relieved, in consequence, from jury and -military service. They wear a short frock at a fire, of coarse linen, -with a leathern belt, and a leathern hat with a number. As in many -English cities, there are water pipes laid in the streets, with an -inscription at the corner, how many feet distant is the opening. This -has an iron cover to which each engine has a key, is brought near, and -the water conveyed into it through a leathern hose. As I had nothing to -do with the fire, I returned to my lodgings, and passed a second fire in -another street. This was, however, less important than the former, and -soon extinguished. - -I went one evening to the Italian opera in the Park Theatre. This opera -was established here last autumn, and is an attempt to transplant this -exotic fruit to American ground. It does not, however, appear adapted to -the taste of the public here; at least the speculation of the Italian -theatre is not so profitable as was expected. The members of this -theatre came from the Italian opera in London. At their head stands -Signor Garcia, a very good bass. The orchestra was not numerous, but -complete, and was directed by a French pianist, Mr. Etienne. Don -Giovanni, by Mozart, was given; it was a great satisfaction to me to see -this classic piece so well represented. At first nothing but operas of -Rossini were played, but now operas of Mozart are preferred to the -former by judges in this place. The price has been raised, and two -dollars is asked for the first tier. The theatre continues till half -past eleven, when one returns home through well-lighted streets. - -As I heard that Governor Clinton was in the city, I hastened to pay him -my respects, but did not find him at home; on this occasion I again saw -how large the city was. The house where the governor lived is nearly two -miles distant from the City Hotel, without being out of the city. -I remarked that since last autumn three new churches have been built -here, of which one, a presbyterian, was very tasteful; since this time -also several new houses had been erected in this quarter. The number of -the inhabitants of the city increases exceedingly, it now supposed to -amount to one hundred and seventy thousand. - -I rode also to the navy-yard in Brooklyn, on Long Island, where I paid a -visit to the worthy Commodore Chauncy. I found him with his interesting -family in excellent health, but very busy, for he had just despatched -the corvette Lexington to New Foundland, in order to protect the -American fishermen against the chicaneries of vessels of war belonging -to other nations, cruising about there. I saw also the frigate -Brandywine, which had returned from the Mediterranean sea, after taking -General La Fayette to France; she was now undergoing repairs, in order -to go to the Pacific ocean. A frigate and corvette were building. - -I saw also the celebrated chess-player of Kempelen, which, with some -other curiosities is exhibited by its present owner, the mechanician Mr. -Maelzel, from Vienna. He is said to have already gained much money with -it in New York. The automaton represents a Turk, sitting behind the -table with a chess-board before him. A table with another chess-board -stands opposite, on which any of the company begins a game of chess with -the automaton. When the automaton is to make a move, a noise of wheels -is heard in the table, and at the same time the Turk lifts his left -hand, which rests on a cushion, opens his fingers, takes the piece, -makes the move, closes his hand, and places it on the cushion again. If -his antagonist makes a false move, the Turk knocks with his right hand -on the table in anger, shakes his head, and expresses his indignation by -a sound. When the Turk gained a game, Mr. Maelzel wound up the machine -like a clock, by means of a handle at the table, then the Turk took a -knight and placed it successively once in every square. The whole -machine stands on four wheels, and may be very easily moved from one -part of the chamber to the other. Whilst the Turk plays the game, Mr. -Maelzel stands by; but it cannot be seen in what manner he directs his -movements. It is said that Mr. Maelzel is negotiating with the keeper of -the National Hotel, where he exhibited his automaton, for the purchase -of the chess-player, and has already received an offer of nineteen -thousand dollars. - -After Mr. Maelzel had moved back the player, he showed us a small figure -made of pasteboard, and representing a violoncello player, which moves -his head and both hands. Mr. Maelzel plays several pieces on the piano, -and the small figure accompanies him with his violoncello, keeping exact -time. He then showed us a trumpeter as large as life, who plays several -pieces with the trumpet in a masterly manner, and with his trumpet -accompanies Mr. Maelzel, who plays the piano. I had already seen this -trumpeter in 1809, at Vienna, and I also recollected to have seen the -chess-player in 1812, in Milan, in the palace of the then vice-king of -Italy. Mr. Maelzel finally showed us three small automata a foot and a -half high. One of them represents a little girl, which when its arm is -moved cries maman; the other a clown, who made grimaces and cried oh la -la! This and another smaller figure were placed on a rope, on which they -performed various evolutions. - -To Castle-garden, on the battery, I went about seven o'clock in the -evening. The tasteful illumination is effected by gas. A handsome and -large saloon is also arranged here, where various refreshments may be -obtained. A good orchestra played the whole evening, and rockets -ascended from time to time. I was particularly pleased with the walk on -the upper gallery, whence there is a beautiful view of Hudson river and -the bay. It was a moonlight evening; the water was calm, and a gentle -wind from the sea, refreshed the sultry atmosphere in a very agreeable -manner. - -At a visit which I made to Governor Clinton, in the City Hall, where his -office is, I saw in the room of audience several handsome portraits by -Sully, Peale, Trumbull, &c. I was most pleased with a full length -portrait of the deceased Commodore PERRY. This naval hero was -represented at the moment of leaving in a small boat his vessel, which -had became useless, and going on board of another, in which he gained -his splendid victory over the English on Lake Erie. There is also here a -full length portrait of General Jackson, and of Generals Brown, Macomb, -and Swift, as well as those of Commodores Hull, Decatur, Bainbridge, -M'Donough and Chauncy, and of the former Governor Lewis. There is also a -very good portrait of Ex-President Monroe, as well as of several of the -earlier Governors of New York, among whom is one of the last Dutch -Governors, Peter Stuyvezant, in full armour. In another hall -appropriated to the meetings of the corporation, there is a portrait by -Trumbull of the great Washington, and opposite to this, a portrait of -the elder Governor Clinton, uncle of De Witt Clinton, as well as those -of General Hamilton and Chief Justice Jay. - -To my great delight I met with my fellow traveller, Mr. Bowdoin; we were -much together; in company with him I paid a visit to the English -Admiral, Sir Isaac Coffin. He is an American by birth, and although he -belongs to the English navy and is a member of parliament, his whole -heart still clings to his native country, and he has come hither to see -it again before his death. - -I was much disappointed at a second visit to the Italian opera. Il -barbiere di Seviglia was announced, but on account of the indisposition -of the Signorina GARCIA, it was not represented. The same folly prevails -among the public here, as among the English, to require a repetition of -the greater part of the airs, even of the most difficult songs, without -regard to the exhaustion of the singer. - -I visited again, in company with the Rev. Mr. Schaeffer, the excellent -institution, called House of Refuge for juvenile offenders. This -institution has increased since last autumn, and now contains -ninety-three young persons of both sexes; at present, however, there are -only twenty-three of the female sex. Such an institution is certainly -worthy of imitation; for children, who are led astray by wrong -inclinations, by the wickedness of their parents, and by bad company, -are brought back again to the right road, whereas in other countries -they are shut up in public prisons with old offenders, and thereby they -become still more corrupted. The house intended for the boys was -finished, and inhabited by them. They were at this time employed in -building another for the girls, parallel with the former. The boys sleep -each alone in a cell on a piece of sail cloth, which they spread out and -fasten by four pegs. These are long rooms, which serve as school rooms, -and are on one side of the building two stories high. The second row is -reached by wooden steps, and a gallery runs before the cells of this -row. All the boys are employed; either in receiving instruction or in -attending to some mechanical business. They are taylors, shoemakers, -weavers, joiners, and basket-makers. I saw here a machine to cut out -shoe soles and heels. Sharp irons are formed according to the shape, -which is designed for the sole or heel; these irons are placed on a pair -of wet hides, and brought under an iron press, which is worked like -those in the mint. The boys who distinguish themselves by their industry -and good behaviour, are placed in the first class, and carry on the left -arm a brass plate, with the inscription, first class, as a mark of -distinction. Those on the contrary, who have endeavoured to escape, drag -a chain with a heavy iron ball. The period of detention in this -institution is left to the discretion of the commissioners; they may be -detained till their twenty-first year. - -In order to show me the boys, the director gave notice with a whistle, -upon which they arranged themselves, according to their size. Several -large and strong fellows stood on the right wing, among which I saw one -of a very good appearance, whom I saw here last year as clerk. His -family had confined him here on account of an irresistible propensity to -steal, against which, neither exhortation nor severe corporeal -punishment availed. I saw two little boys of seven years, on the left -wing, who had already begun to steal. The biography of every one is -written in a separate book, and a journal afterwards kept of his -behaviour, punishments, &c. The director of the house showed me some of -these biographies; they are psychologically, exceedingly remarkable. The -greater part of the boys had been induced to steal by larger ones, who -have been confined on account of this offence in the penitentiary or -state prison. The director called the former of these institutions the -academy, and the latter the university for thieves. The benefit of this -house of refuge is perceived in the clearest manner from these -biographies, it is seen of what importance it is to anticipate the -development of crime. It is certainly an effective mode of improving the -morality of the lower classes. They say that it is more difficult to -keep the girls in order, than the boys, and that upon the whole, the -former are much worse than the latter. They are generally seduced, when -they are but nine or ten years old. When not engaged in receiving -instruction, they are employed in female occupations. - -After leaving this interesting institution, we repaired to the -alms-house on the East river. With the alms-house they have connected -the workhouse, in which criminals are confined and employed for the -benefit and advantage of the city. The institution was erected at the -expense of the city, and consists of three long massive buildings, three -stories high, with several side buildings, designed for hospitals, -schools, smithshops, &c. The whole is surrounded with a wall, and -divisions made in the interior, to separate the paupers from the -criminals. The offices and the rooms occupied by the officers, as well -as those of the poor, are arranged in the building fronting on the -river, the second house also contains rooms for the poor, and workshops, -in which those who can yet work, are usefully employed. About twelve -hundred helpless poor people and children, among which are many -foundlings, are here supported. They inhabit large halls, which, -however, have a bad smell, and I missed that cleanliness, which is -indispensably necessary in such an establishment. A poor-house, is at -best an unpleasant, and when it is not cleanly kept, a disgusting sight. -Those who are confined, are criminals of a lower kind, the worst are not -confined longer than three years. The men work during the day, either in -the fields belonging to the city, or in the public streets. A chain is -attached to their leg, and they are under the inspection of appointed -sentinels. The women are employed in various manners. A treading-mill -was formerly in operation in a side building; but this has not been used -for a year, as it was thought injurious to the health of the prisoners. -A kind of typhus raged in the prison last year, which carried off -numbers of the prisoners. These sleep in separate cells, each of which, -is seven feet long, and three feet broad. Each prisoner has here, as in -the house of refuge, a piece of sail cloth, spread out on four pegs, on -which he sleeps. There is a small grate in each door, which admits the -necessary light into the cell. There are sixty cells in one hall, all on -one side, in five rows above each other; each row has a small gallery. -The hall receives its light from above. A pulpit, opposite the cells, is -erected in this hall for worship; the prisoners who are confined during -the service, stand behind the grate in their doors, whence they may see -the minister. The whole arrangement has, as remarked above, a handsome -and open situation; there is a belvidere on the roof of the front house, -whence a handsome and extensive prospect may be enjoyed. - -On the last day of my stay in New York and in America, I went with Mr. -Zimmermann into some stores, and walked in some of the oldest parts of -the city. In these parts the streets are crooked, narrow and gloomy, -well adapted to retain the yellow fever. In the neighbourhood, however, -of the alms-house there is a building three stories high, where the -incurable lunatics, supported by the corporation of the city, are -received; but the two upper stories are designed to receive, when the -yellow fever appears, those who suffer with this dreadful evil, in order -to remove, as quickly as possible, the infection from the city. Some old -Dutch houses stand in the narrow streets, built by the first settlers, -consisting only of a lower story, with the gable-ends towards the -street. They are building in Wall street, a new exchange, which, when -completed, will be a handsome building. The post-office is already -placed in its lower story. Wall street is the street in which the most -commercial business is done, and in which most of the banks stand; it is -to be regretted that it is one of the ugliest streets in the city. - -After having paid some farewell visits, I passed a part of my last -evening in America, in a very agreeable manner in the house of Mrs. -Bell. It is the most agreeable house for strangers in New York, in which -they always meet with a very good reception. I enjoyed also, for several -hours, the company of Mr. Bowdoin, and of Colonel Jones, the -brother-in-law of Governor Clinton. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - _Return Voyage from New York to Liverpool._ - - -To my great and sincere regret, the hour at length arrived when I was -constrained to leave this happy and prosperous land, in which I had seen -and learned so much, and in which _much_ more still remained to be seen -and learned: _sed fata trahunt hominem!_ - -On the 16th of June, at ten, A. M., I proceeded to Whitehall, the -southernmost point of the battery, accompanied by Mr. Zimmermann, Mr. -George Beiden, and Mr. Armstrong, the American Consul at Port-au-Prince. -Close alongside the wharf, the steam-boat Nautilus, which plies between -New York and Staten Island, lay ready to take passengers on board the -Pacific, one of the Liverpool and New York packets, on board of which I -had taken passage for Europe. The Pacific had on the preceding day, -sailed down to the quarantine ground. The gentlemen above named -accompanied me to the vessel. We were scarcely on board the steam-boat -before she departed on her trip. She was tolerably crowded, inasmuch as -she not only carried the Pacific's passengers, but likewise their -friends, who accompanied them, and the passengers for Staten Island. The -rain fell in torrents, and the passage was rather unpleasant. - -After stopping a few moments at Staten Island to land some passengers, -we reached the Pacific in an hour. The wind being contrary, the ship -could not put to sea. Not far from us lay the packet ship Edward -Quesnell, which had left New York the day previous, and likewise, owing -to head winds, could not proceed on her voyage. This ship belongs to the -Havre-de-Grace line, trading between that port and New York. Our friends -and acquaintances, who had come to bid us farewell, after partaking of a -luncheon, returned in the Nautilus to the city. Now I once again was -compelled to arm myself with patience! I recalled the time, when I was -obliged to remain fourteen long days on board the Pallas, in the Road of -Goeree, and I now consoled myself with a more pleasing situation. At -that time I had just torn myself from the dearest objects of my heart; -I contemplated a tedious stay in England, a dangerous voyage, in a word, -to encounter a host of difficulties, and moreover found myself, in an -inclement season of the year on board a ship, which was to bring me to a -new world. These difficulties were now overcome; the voyage had been -accomplished, and I was conscious that the object of my free choice, had -been truly fulfilled to the best of my endeavours. According to a close -calculation, I found that from my landing in Boston, to the time of my -re-embarkation for Europe, I had travelled over a distance of seven -thousand one hundred and thirty-five miles! How happy was I on board the -Pacific! The greatest tranquillity, order and discipline, the utmost -comfort in respect to quarters; a sedulous attendance, profuse and -palatable meals, seasoned with the best of wines, graced our splendid -board. - -The first day was employed by the passengers, about twenty in number, in -making themselves at home; I passed the afternoon and evening in reading -and writing. The rain abated towards night, but the wind remained -unchanged. Among the passengers I observed a Dr. Garret, a surgeon -attached to the seventieth English regiment of the line, whose -acquaintance I had made in Montreal, during the summer previous, also -two Catholic clergymen of that city, Abbés Roux and Richards, a Mr. -Wilkins, and Mr. Adair, an Irishman, and also several gentlemen from -Jamaica, a Swiss merchant named Hoffel, and a young Hamburger, called -Drusina, who had lately returned from Mexico, where he was partner in an -English commercial house, a very genteel young man, and lastly a Dr. -Cabell of Richmond, in Virginia, with his wife, a sister of Mrs. General -Scott, and with their charming friend, Miss Caroline Marx, also a -resident of Richmond. - -Though we had no rain on the 17th of June, still the wind continued -unfavourable; the Edward Quesnell had gone farther out to sea, and the -Pacific did the same. The anchor was weighed, we spread our sails, and -coasted for some miles along the shore to the Sandy Hook light-house, -located on a point of land belonging to the state of New Jersey; here we -again joined the Edward Quesnell and cast anchor close to her. While -sailing along the coast, I was visited by my old acquaintance, -sea-sickness, which however did not last long. While attacked by this -sickness, I gratefully recalled to mind the goodness of Providence, in -having preserved me from all disease during my long journey through the -American continent! In England I had several attacks of rheumatism in -the left arm and shoulder; but these pains disappeared during my voyage -to Boston. Owing to the unhealthiness of the climate in the -neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence, I had a -breaking out in the face, which ultimately increased to a scab on the -chin, and of which I did not get rid for several months. To this I have -to add the unfortunate injury from the carriage at Greenbush, which -caused violent pains in my chest. All these left me the moment I reached -the genial climate of the southern states, and during my stay in New -Orleans I did not feel the least inconvenience, and when, during the -journey, I experienced now and then a slight indisposition, it was -doubtless to be attributed solely to the water that I was compelled to -drink; it was but short in its duration, and, upon the whole, during my -travels, I enjoyed perfect health. - -The country adjacent to the spot where our ship lay, opposite the -quarantine hospital at Staten Island, until this morning, is uncommonly -beautiful. On leaving this station, we passed through the Narrows, -beheld on our right Fort Richmond on Staten Island, to our left Fort La -Fayette, and in the back ground, on a hill of Long Island, Fort -Hamilton, in the erection of which they were busily engaged. Then we -left the charming high coast of Staten Island and came in sight of the -bleak low lands of Sandy Hook, with Long Island to the left, and the -ocean before us. The Sandy Hook light-house is a high white tower, -surrounded by small underwood; to the south of it, and tolerably distant -from each other, are two small towers, likewise furnished with lanterns, -whose lights are, however, not to be seen at so great a distance at sea -as that of the large one. They serve as landmarks for mariners. - -As we lay so near the Edward Quesnell, I went towards evening in a boat -on board that vessel, in order to see how the passengers, and -particularly the worthy Mr. Hottinguer, whom I have heretofore -mentioned, were situated. Although this ship is well constructed and -provided with state-rooms, still it is by no means so elegant and -comfortable as the Pacific, nor is it so large. She had thirty-five -cabin passengers, with a number of children; they were greatly -straightened for room. Besides Mr. Hottinguer, I met several -acquaintances; Colonel de Quartel,[II-36] Baron Lederer,[II-37] with his -two sons, whom he intended to place at a school in Germany; Major -Chotard,[II-38] with his lady and four children, and also a young -Italian scene-painter, from New Orleans, called Fogliardi, who married -there a very old but extremely rich wife, and was on his way to France -and Italy, to escape with his better half from the quizzical jokes of -the wicked wags of New Orleans. Although the deck of the Edward Quesnell -was very narrow, Mr. Hottinguer had received a present of an elegant -saddle-horse from his friends at New York, which, to please those -friends, he was forced to take with him; therefore there was a stable -erected for it on the deck, which took up a great space, and caused much -inconvenience. Mr. Hottinguer and Colonel de Quartel accompanied me back -to the Pacific, and remained some time with me. It was a charming -moonlight evening; the wind, however, still continued unfavourable. - - [Footnote II-36: In service of the Netherlands, on his return from - a mission to the new South American republics.] - - [Footnote II-37: Austrian Consul-General to the United States.] - - [Footnote II-38: Whose acquaintance I made on the Mississippi - during my trip from Louisville to Cincinnati.] - -On the 18th of June, just one year had elapsed since I departed in the -Pallas from Falmouth. The whole of this day we had dull weather; the -wind remained unfavourable, and the vessel rode at anchor. Among our -fellow travellers there were several very agreeable individuals. The -English military surgeon was a very sprightly man, who perfectly -understood how to cheer up the spirits of the ladies. Mr. Wilkins, -a very elegant young man of good education, had been previously -introduced to me by Governor Clinton in New York. One of the clergymen, -the Abbé Leroux, an elderly Frenchman, we found tolerably dull. With -regard to the other, the Abbé Richards, I heard it stated, that he had -been originally a Protestant minister in Virginia, and had removed to -Montreal, to endeavour to make proselytes in the seminary of that place; -but in his controversies he became so won over to the Catholic faith, -that he was not only converted, but likewise took the orders of Catholic -priesthood. One of our boats went ashore, and the steward brought back -some fresh provisions, among others tolerably large clams, which, when -roasted or stewed in a rich sauce, resemble the flavour of the lobster, -as likewise a species of large crab, termed horse-shoe, which resembles -the Molucca crab, having a long pointed spine instead of a tail. The -form of the shell of this crab resembles a horse-shoe; seen from the -under part it is all alive; they have ten nippers, with which they seize -their prey, and which answer likewise for feet. In the afternoon we -received a visit from Mr. Hottinguer, Colonel de Quartel, Baron Lederer, -and Mr. Fogliardi. I escorted those gentlemen back to the Edward -Quesnell. The sea running rather high, we were splashed by the salt -water. Our trip seen from the ship must have had a dangerous aspect, for -it was really affecting to behold with what tenderness Madam Fogliardi -caressed her young husband, as he once more happily stood on the deck. -I also became acquainted on board the Edward Quesnell with a Portuguese, -Dr. Constancio, and his wife. During the ephemeral government of the -Cortes in his native land, this individual was Portuguese ambassador -near the government of the United States, and had subsequently, during -the existence of the counter-revolution, lost his office. After -remaining half an hour on board the Edward Quesnell, Mr. Croker took me -back in his long-boat to the Pacific. We made the transition in less -than four minutes. This Mr. Croker is a Quaker, and an experienced -seaman; he had crossed the ocean one hundred and thirty-four times. - -During the next three days the wind remained unfavourable. Several -vessels from Liverpool, were making port; one of them had only been -twenty-six days on her voyage. We were likewise, approached by several -small vessels bound to different foreign countries, and like us, -contending with a contrary wind. Towards evening I received a note from -Messrs. Leroy, Bayard & Co. in New York, acquainting me with the failure -of the firm of Fries & Co. in Vienna. As I had formerly been very -hospitably received by that house, and was personally acquainted with -all the individuals belonging to it, their misfortunes deeply afflicted -me. - -On the 22d, the rain abated and the weather began to clear up, but the -wind continued steadily blowing from the east, which kept us in the same -spot. Nothing interrupted the uniformity of our mode of living, which we -beguiled by reading the newspapers that we received from the city, and -looking at vessels coming from England, running into port before the -wind. One of these vessels had one hundred and forty Irish emigrants on -board. The James Cropper, a ship belonging to the line, had sailed on -the 16th ultimo from Liverpool. Two days previous, the Silas Richards, -another of the same line, had also arrived, which left Liverpool on the -24th ult. In one of the New York papers, we found a letter from the -master of this vessel, in which he stated, that he had seen the -celebrated sea serpent, not far from the American coast. - -During the 23d of June, we still remained becalmed; the weather was -cloudy and rainy throughout the whole day. Mr. Hottinguer, who likewise -began to feel the effects of ennui on board his vessel, paid me a visit, -took a luncheon and dined with us, and passed the greater part of the -day in our company. When in the evening he returned to the Edward -Quesnell, I accompanied him, and made a short visit to my half -despairing acquaintances. One of our boats had gone towards land upon a -fishing excursion, and came back loaded with a rich collection of -various kinds of fish: flounders, bluefish, and herrings in abundance; -clams, crabs beautifully coloured with blue and red; large sea-shells of -extraordinary form, several bass and a small fish, with a brown back, -resembling a toad, with a thick white belly, which it fills with air to -such a degree, that the whole fish has the appearance of a ball, -three-fourths of it are white, and one-fourth forming the back, brown. -When this fish is caught and dies, the air gradually escapes from it, -and it ultimately assumes the form of an empty bladder. - -At last, on the 24th, the weather became somewhat clear and the wind -came round favourably for us. At noon the anchor was weighed and we -spread our sails. A number of vessels, desirous to avail themselves of -the fair wind, were coming down from New York and the quarantine ground. -The line packet, John Wells, next in rotation to the Pacific, made -likewise its appearance from port, which was no doubt the principal -cause of our hastily hoisting sail. I counted more than fifty vessels of -all sizes, putting to sea. The wind in the beginning was so slight, that -we could only move along with the ebb tide. We doubled the low cape of -Sandy Hook; in the back ground we saw the light-house, surrounded by -underwood, and in front of it, like two outposts, the two low stony -beacons. Not far from the light-house, stands a half ruined block-house, -in which during the last war a military post was stationed; it now -answers as a landmark for mariners. In the rear of the high light-house, -at a distance of several miles, towers the highland of Navesink, -presenting a charming prospect. To the south one discovers the long and -low coast of New Jersey, and perceives the sea-baths of Long Branch, -which during the heat of summer are numerously visited by the -fashionables of New York and Philadelphia. The heights of Staten Island -with Fort Richmond are seen, to the right of them are the Narrows, and -farther to the right the southernmost high coast of Long Island, -gradually fading from the view. In the centre of the Narrows, Fort La -Fayette stretches out, like a solitary point. As we put farther out to -sea, we saw several buoys, which designated the shallows, through the -midst of which the skilful pilot brought us safely. Two small vessels -were employed in fishing up lost anchors. The pilot remarked, that the -anchors of the French fleet under Admiral De Grasse, had remained here -ever since the time of the American revolutionary war. This fleet owing -to the unskilfullness of two pilots, was compelled to part with its -anchors. When an enemy's fleet blockades New York, the shipping make to -Sandy Hook bay, properly called Raritan bay, for shelter against storms, -and are thus enabled to blockade the Narrows very closely. Should a -fleet wish to force the passage, it can, as I remarked last fall, -neither be prevented from so doing by Fort Richmond, nor Fort La -Fayette. In a conversation which I had with General Bernard, he stated, -that he would prevent a close blockade by means of two strong casemated -forts, which he would erect on the before-mentioned shallows, whereby -the enemy would be perfectly excluded from Raritan bay. This project -could not, however, be realised at that time, because the grant of funds -by congress were to be appropriated to the completion of the works on -the fortress already commenced. - -In the afternoon, the pilot at length left us, and we found ourselves on -the open sea. Although the wind blew very gently, still the sea, owing -to the late storm, ran very high. The ship rolled dreadfully and many of -our passengers were sea-sick. I also felt somewhat unwell, but my -complaint did not produce vomiting. - -During the 25th of June the wind not being favourable, we made but -little progress. The weather was rather unpleasant, and the whole day -clouded with a thick fog, almost as dense as that through which we made -our way during last year on the banks of Newfoundland. Towards the -afternoon the weather brightened up a little. We spoke two ships, the -Camillus, of New York, from Greenock, in Scotland, with Scotch -emigrants, bound to New York, and a small brig from New Brunswick, in -ballast, to New York. A shark followed our ship for some time. It gave -me particular pleasure to perceive what tranquillity reigned on board, -that no swearing was to be heard, and that every thing tended to the -comfort of the passengers. - -During the night rain fell, and on the 26th of June we had likewise -several showers. We perceived the Edward Quesnell astern of us, and set -several additional sails that she might not reach us. The wind was not -very favourable, and blowing from the south-east, it drove us into the -neighbourhood of the perilous George's bank, which we so carefully -avoided last year. Therefore we changed our course and stood to the -south. It became imperiously necessary this year to keep aloof from the -bank of Newfoundland, because we had been assured that a great quantity -of detached ice had come down from the north, and setting on the bank in -the shape of bergs and fields of ice, had rendered the passage extremely -dangerous. Several of our passengers, and I among the number, had not -entirely recovered from the effects of sea-sickness. - -On the 27th of June the wind had come round favourably to the west, -so that we were enabled to hoist a larger quantity of canvass. In the -forenoon there was a heavy swell, which made me sea-sick. While -labouring under this unpleasant sensation, it is difficult to conceive -how men can expose themselves to the dangers of the sea, while there is -a comfortable house and quiet bed at home. But scarcely is it over, or -scarcely have we put foot on shore before all these inconveniences are -forgotten, and one thinks little of embarking again. The sea gradually -became more still, the weather charmingly warm, and an awning was spread -over a part of the deck, under which we collected, and even the ladies, -who had slowly recovered from sea-sickness, joined us, to breathe the -fresh air. In the evening, we were regaled with music; one of the -steerage passengers blew tolerably well on the bugle, amused his -companions therewith, and we listened to his strains at a distance. -There was some musical talent among ourselves; a young Scotch gentleman -from Jamaica, named Leslie, played elegantly on the flute, and often -delighted us. Several water birds followed our ship; it is a species of -bird resembling a swallow, called petrel, and termed mother Carey's -chickens by sailors, who say that they never alight upon land, and as -their nests are not readily found, it is hard to tell where they -propagate. A large vessel, which we supposed to be either the Edward -Quesnell or the John Wells, followed constantly in our wake; but our -heavy press of sail kept us always in advance. It is a matter of -surprise, how such a large quantity of sail can be managed by so few -hands, for we had but fifteen sailors and two boys; however, the -steerage passengers were obliged to lend a hand to the manoeuvres on -deck; there were thirteen of these on board; they are similar to the -deck passengers in the steam-boats; they pay but little, provide their -own provisions, and are narrowly lodged in a small place below decks, -near the fore-mast, and are not allowed, unless when working, to show -themselves abaft the mainmast, inasmuch as this place is solely reserved -for the cabin passengers. On board our vessel, the sailors slept in -quarters provided for them on the deck, between the fore-mast and the -bowsprit. - -During the whole of the 28th of June we were favoured with a prosperous -breeze and fine weather. Our situation was, by a midday observation, 40° -3´ latitude, and 65° 4´ longitude. Since yesterday we had seen grass -floating close to the ship. Thence we concluded that we had already -entered the favouring Gulf Stream. The awning was again spread. Mrs. -Cabell and Miss Marx, who had recovered by degrees from their -indisposition, presented themselves to-day upon deck, and made a -considerable change in the tedious uniformity of our late mode of -living. In the evening Mr. Leslie brought his flute, and delighted us -with music; finally, we began to dance on deck, although from the motion -of the ship it did not succeed well. - -On the 29th of June, both wind and weather continued favourable to us; -otherwise things remained as before. Captain Croker, who did every thing -in his power to entertain his passengers, set off in the evening a -couple of rockets, and other fire-works, which afforded us much -pleasure. Mr. Croker, who is very experienced in a seafaring life, -related us many of his adventures on the deep, which we found very -interesting. We twice perceived swarms of flying fish arise from the -water, which after flying a considerable distance, plunged anew into -their native element; they did not, however, come sufficiently near to -enable us to observe them distinctly. A large dolphin likewise made its -appearance, and we were still escorted by mother Carey's chickens, and -saw numerous sea-gulls. - -On the 30th of June no change; wind favourable, weather fine and clear, -and a curiosity in natural history! We generally kept a pair of hooks in -our wake. One of these hooks had caught a mollusc which goes by the name -of _Portuguese man-of-war_. It is of a violet colour, and has a spongy -body with long feelers and two bladders, the largest of which is about -the size of a carp. This bladder the animal fills with air at pleasure, -in order to enable itself to swim, and when the sun shines upon it, it -displays very fine colours. Otherwise we caught nothing, as heretofore, -because fish most generally avoid copper-bottomed vessels, such as ours. -In the evening we saw in the ship's wake the phosphoric sealight. - -Under a continually favourable wind, we made great progress on the 2d of -July, and had the agreeable certainty of leaving the bank of -Newfoundland behind us, so that we had reason to hope, during the -remainder of our voyage, not to be again incommoded by fogs; latitude -41° 24´, longitude 50°. Notwithstanding the constantly favourable and -fresh breezes, the sea was so smooth, that our ship had no more motion -than if we were sailing on a stream. And thus passed off the third of -July; the air, which had thus far been very warm, became to-day rather -cool, which made our cabin very comfortable. At a cable's length from -our vessel we perceived a numerous herd of porpoises, which were -sporting on the surface of the water; latitude 42°, longitude 46° 48´. - -The 4th of July was the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of -American Independence; it was of course duly celebrated on board our -vessel. The American flag was hoisted early, and at dinner more wine -than usual, and of various kinds, was drank freely. Several toasts were -proposed: Mr. Croker drank the health of the King of England; whereupon -Dr. Garret proposed that of the President of the United States; I gave -Governor Clinton's; thereupon followed a great many of like kind. We -were pretty gay and cheerful, and drank till tolerably late. Several -gentlemen got head-aches, and became sea-sick; and many laughable scenes -took place. I stole into my state-room, in order to avoid similar -mishap. - -On the 5th of July we had the good fortune to meet a large whale, which -spouted the water high above him in all directions. He did not, however, -honour us a long time with his presence, but pursued his course, and we -ours, though with much greater velocity; for at the usual meridian -observation, we found our latitude 44° 9´ and our longitude 39° 38´. In -the morning we had little wind, but when towards evening it freshened, -we made from eight to nine miles an hour. Up to this period our voyage -had been most prosperous, continually fair wind and the sea very smooth. -During three days we had seen a brig at the distance of some miles from -us, which was going on the same course, but our ship being a better -sailer, we left it to-day considerably behind. - -On the 7th of July, weather dull, with occasional rain; which rendered -it cold and uncomfortable. Latitude 46° 50´, longitude 30° 31´; wind -towards afternoon rather strong, sea running very high with the wind in -our stern; this increased the motion of our ship, which was constantly -pitching from one side to the other. What was not properly fastened gave -way. This gave rise to many droll scenes. The ladies, who were -unaccustomed to this new unpleasantness attending a sea voyage, became -frightened; they conceived that danger was near, and we had considerable -trouble in allaying their fears. One of them entreated in the most -affecting manner, several gentlemen, who were whiling away their time at -a game of whist, and others who were engaged at back-gammon, not to -bring down the vengeance of heaven, and not to increase the danger that -surrounded us, by sinful card-playing and unholy back-gammon! But there -was no danger whatever to apprehend, though the rolling of the vessel -was unpleasant; the passengers scarcely knew where to go, or what to do, -for it was even impossible to sleep, inasmuch as the shocking rolling -threatened us with a fall from our beds. - -We pursued our course swiftly during the 8th of July. Latitude 47° 58´, -longitude 25° 10´. In the forenoon the sea was calmer, but during the -afternoon, and particularly in the evening, it ran so high that the ship -pitched more than yesterday. The weather was, during the whole of the -day, unpleasant, cloudy, and rainy, and it was with the greatest -difficulty that we kept our feet on the wet deck. In the evening, -I observed again in the sea the phosphoric light; some parts of the -water sparkled like fireflies.[II-39] We overtook a brig, apparently -bound on our course; on this occasion we once more remarked what a good -sailer the Pacific is, for when we discovered the brig, she was far -ahead of us, and although she had all her sails set, we not only soon -overtook her, but soon left her far behind us. We did not approach her -sufficiently near to speak. During this damp weather, I acknowledged the -superior construction of the Pacific to that of the Pallas; whilst in -the latter the moisture penetrated throughout, and exerted its noxious -influence on a variety of articles liable to rot, and spread through the -whole vessel an insupportable foul smell; every thing in the Pacific was -dry, and in our cabin we had not suffered at all from the existing -humidity. - - [Footnote II-39: [This light is emitted by molluscous animals, - which are exceedingly abundant in some parts of the ocean. They - are also seen to great advantage during the night, in the - Chesapeake bay.]--TRANS.] - -The night of the 8th and 9th of July I passed very unpleasantly, owing -to the rolling of the vessel; I was every moment on the point of falling -out of my bed, and it was only towards six o'clock in the morning that I -began to enjoy some repose. The day brought with it clear weather. The -wind had been so favourable for the last twenty-four hours, that we -found ourselves in latitude 48° 40´, and longitude 19° 12´. In the -afternoon the wind became variable and blew from various quarters; we -experienced several squalls accompanied by showers of rain. At last it -set in strong from the north-west, and drove us forward at the rate of -eleven miles per hour. Towards evening we came up with a vessel bound -from Savannah for Liverpool, spoke her, and gave her our longitude. -Their reckoning differed from ours, as they believed themselves to be in -longitude 16°. The sea ran rather high while we were in the -neighbourhood of this vessel, so that we could not have a long talk with -her, nor even rightly understand her name. We left her far behind us. - -On the 10th of July, the wind continued favourable, there was a heavy -swell of the sea, and much motion in the vessel. The weather clearing -off towards noon, we were enabled to make exact observations, which we -could not do for some days before, on account of the cloudy weather. -It appeared, that we had made a small mistake in our computation of the -longitude, for by the precise observation of this day, we found our -latitude to be fifty degrees twenty-two minutes, and our longitude -seventeen degrees. We saw already several birds, a proof that we were -approaching land; we continually saw petrels and mother Carey's -chickens. The more we sailed northwards, we felt the air becoming -cooler, which created in me no pleasant sensation. - -The 11th of July was rather windy and rainy; in other respects matters -remained in statu quo. Latitude fifty degrees thirty minutes, longitude -twelve degrees fifty-five minutes. We hoped to find ourselves on the -next day on the Nymph bank, which stretches from the south of Ireland, -far into the sea, nor were we deceived in our expectations, for very -early on the 12th of July, we experienced an uncommonly heavy motion, -and the waves ran as high as in a storm, although the wind was not -strong. This served as an assurance, that we had attained the Nymph -bank. The motion of the sea here is caused by the pressure of great -masses of water upon the bank, whereby the under water is cast up, and -driven with great force towards the surface. The lead was hove for -soundings several times since midnight, as we lay still too far to the -south, to be governed by landmarks; had the weather not been so hazy, we -could easily have distinguished Cape Clear, the south-westernmost point -of Ireland, consisting of a single high rock, jutting out into the sea, -and provided with a light-house. While we were seated at dinner, land -was discovered. We mounted on deck, and beheld the high coast of the -county of Cork in Ireland; the weather continued so hazy and rainy, that -we could not have a clear and fine view of the land. I was surprised at -the indifference with which I contemplated the first European land that -now met my view, and particularly when I compared this indifference with -the joyful enthusiasm, with which, one year past, on the 24th of July. -I put my foot for the first time on the soil of America! But at that -time every thing was new to me, and my expectations were wrought up to -the highest pitch; now on the contrary, I could only expect to see what -was generally familiar. After dinner we perceived off the coast of -Ireland, two islands with high hills, called the Saltees, and near them -a three-masted ship, as a floating light at anchor. We met likewise a -steam-boat, bound from Milford in Wales, to Waterford in Ireland. It lay -rather low in the water, and as the wind blew strong from the west, the -sea ran so high, that I did not at all envy the condition of the -passengers in the steam-boat, over whose deck the waves were constantly -beating. The sight of land made our passengers more cheerful, and -towards evening we became more happy than usual. - -On the morning of the 13th of July, the wind was uncommonly mild, the -weather, however, cleared up, so that we gradually discovered the lofty -and mountainous coast of Wales. Among these high mountains, we -particularly distinguished that of Snowdon, which towered above the -others, until its pinnacle became lost in the clouds; it is about four -thousand feet high. We descried the Isle of Anglesea next, and came so -near it, that we could perceive distinctly its rough, high and -precipitous rocks, arising from the ocean. On the highest of these -rocks, stands a watch-house with a signal pole; we showed our number; -every vessel that trades with Liverpool, is there furnished with a -number, under which it is inscribed in the book of the exchange, and our -signal was immediately hoisted over the watch-house. By a chain of -telegraphs, the news of our arrival reached Liverpool in a moment, at -the distance of sixty miles. Under the high rock of Anglesea, is a -smaller, more isolated rock, on which stands a white light-house, which -contrasts charmingly with the dark rocks. From the higher rock, a zigzag -path, cut in the rock and surrounded with a white wall, leads to a -bridge, suspended by ropes, over which you enter this little island. As -we approached it towards noon, the wind sprang up, and we enjoyed the -majestic spectacle of the waves breaking on the black rocks. Then we -made the highlands of Holyhead, doubled them and directed our course to -the east. Behind the cape, the beautifully situated town of Holyhead -with its harbour burst upon our view. This English harbour is the -nearest to the Irish coast; between it and Dublin there is a regular -communication by steam-boats. We tacked and stood over to the coast of -Wales, and were delighted with the appearance of its fresh green soil; -its neat houses and churches. The green hedges with which the fields and -meadows are encompassed, produce a very pleasing sensation; I however -observed, that there was a great scarcity of trees. The scenery towards -the sea side began likewise to be more lively, as there was a great -number of vessels in view. At last the pilot-boat came up, and put a -pilot on board. As one approaches England from the European continent, -the elegant construction of these one-masted cutter pilot-boats and -their quick sailing, excites astonishment; but if one is bound from the -United States, and has beheld their elegant shipping, and particularly -the New York pilot-boat schooners, there is no reason for surprise, for -the English shipping is far inferior to the American. - -Toward evening, the ebb was against us; we could no longer run into -Liverpool, and were obliged to cast anchor within fifteen miles of the -city. We had passed the same floating light, which I observed three -years ago, in a voyage from Liverpool to Dublin, and we lay near four -light-houses, two of which gave a remarkably clear and beautiful light; -the light of one of these towers played gracefully on the waves. These -towers were a considerable distance from each other, and are so -situated, that two must be brought in a line, to find the proper course. -I had observed on the coast of Wales, some white pyramids, which also -serve as landmarks. We met to-day several steam-boats, bound to -different ports along the Irish coast. Dr. Garret, whose business led -him to Ireland, availed himself of this opportunity to proceed to -Dublin, and left us while we were still under way. We beheld the -departure of this lively fellow-passenger with much regret, as the loss -of his good humour and wit, greatly depressed our spirits. Three -custom-house officers soon came on board, who after inspecting the -vessel for form sake, and partaking of a hearty collation, instantly -freed us from their company. We were boarded by several boats, which -offered to take passengers ashore; but as it was near dusk, and as the -most of us were in no hurry, only two of our fellow-passengers accepted -their proposals. This was the nineteenth day since our departure from -Sandy Hook, and we could not be too thankful to Providence for his -protection, and our happy and speedy voyage. As it was known in -Liverpool, that we were to sail on the 16th ultimo, from New York, our -friends anxiously awaited our arrival. - -On the 14th of July, between two and three o'clock in the morning every -body was already stirring on board of our ship; we hoisted anchor and -set sail, with a favourable wind, to reach Liverpool by daybreak. This -city, as is known, is situated on the right bank of the Mersey, in -Lancashire; seen from the water, it presents a charming prospect. To the -right you behold the coast of Chestershire, and a deep bay which -stretches to the city of Chester. This coast is not handsome at first -view, but becomes more agreeable after doubling a very dangerous rocky -point, which runs from the left bank of the Mersey, not far from the -harbour of Liverpool, and on which, during gales, vessels are often -liable to be wrecked. You then discover on this coast beautiful -country-seats, and in the back ground pleasant villages. Captain Croker -wished to avail himself of the rising tide to run into the Prince's -dock; this required much manoeuvering, and at last we took in sail. After -an hour's labour we ultimately reached the dock. The dock was so crowded -with ships, that the Pacific took her place fourth from the wharf. -I went ashore, and took up my lodgings at the King's Arms Hotel, in -Castle-street, an excellent hotel, in which I lodged three years ago. -The landing of my baggage went on very slowly, because it had to be -carried over three vessels. When landed, it was carried to the so called -old dock, to a toll-house, situated in the interior of the city. This -toll-house is an old, narrow, smoky building, by no means worthy so rich -a trading emporium as Liverpool. Before I could have my baggage -examined, I was obliged to present myself at the alien-office, to -produce my passport; it was taken from me, and I received a passport ad -interim, in lieu thereof. Upon the whole, I had to undergo a great many -formalities. In AMERICA, it was quite the contrary: there they never -thought of asking me for a passport. Ultimately I received permission to -have my baggage examined, which was done in the politest manner -possible. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - _Stay in England, and return to Ghent._ - - -Among the gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured -me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of -Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President -Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of -Versailles, came to England with credentials signed by WASHINGTON. - -The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its -many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me. -However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited -several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity -and in Staffordshire. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and -gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one -likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called -stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in -solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay. - -I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven -years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This -institution is the central prison of Lancastershire, and contains -prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those -who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported -to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to -visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the -governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free -circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this -period they amounted to six hundred and fifty. - -The prisoners are divided into twenty-one classes, thirteen for the men -and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and -ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and -yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and -red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete -suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children -is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into -different classes, and entirely separated from the grown persons. - -For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. On Sunday there -is service in the chapel, but for each sex separately, and every morning -there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly principally employed in -spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much -fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on -the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of -them were idle. - -Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe -punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days -solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater -punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who -meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option. -A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry -is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with -the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are -conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large -rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is -extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The -antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in -private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of -them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several -shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the -judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs. - -After I had inspected this interesting prison, we went to visit the -institution for the blind, of which I had heard such a high character. -Unfortunately, the hour for the admission of strangers had passed, and -notwithstanding all our intreaties, we were denied admission by a -handsome girl, who opened the door. - -We next visited a small museum, which was pretty much on the plan of -those in America, and like most of these establishments, was furnished -with a hand-organ, on which they played at certain hours, to induce -people to enter. This museum possesses rare stuffed animals, viz. -a large ant-eater, and a quantity of foreign lizards and snakes; many -living ones of the same kind I had seen in America; they are attached in -a very natural manner to moss-covered rocks. It has likewise a -collection of foreign birds and shells; garments and weapons of the -savages of America, and the Southern Islands; a boa constrictor coiled -round and choking a young antelope, &c. A Miss Brown, a young person, -born without arms, was to be seen working with her feet in the most -ingenious style. She eats not only with her feet, but likewise pours out -a glass of wine, and carries it to her mouth without spilling a drop; -she mends a pen, and writes very distinctly with her right foot; she -threads a needle, sews, &c. - -On the 16th of July, at eight o'clock in the morning, I departed from -Liverpool in the stage for Birmingham, with the intention of soon -proceeding to the continent. The English stages are better closed, and -run easier than the American, but I prefer the latter, because their -seats are more comfortable. The distance from Liverpool to Birmingham is -one hundred and one miles; the turnpike is most excellent, and the road -even the whole way. On one side of the turnpike, along the whole length -of the road, there is a side-walk for pedestrians; it has a pebbly -surface, and is enclosed on both sides with sandstone, to heighten the -pavement. Wherever this side-walk is not paved, it is at least smoothed -and lined with small sods; at equal distances two posts are driven into -the ground, to prevent the passage of horsemen and wheelbarrows. -I admired the peculiar care with which the stones destined for the -repairs of the highway, are broken into the smallest pieces. With such -stones it is easy to make a good road, and the Americans and other -nations might well take example from the British, whenever they wish to -have a good road, or to repair one. The number of villages that lay upon -our route had a very handsome appearance. The dwellings of the farmers -are small, but they have a very neat appearance, owing to the -straw-thatched roofs, variegated with small windows, the bowers in front -of the doors, and the garlands of roses and ivy, which twine gracefully -along the walls; the little flower-gardens by the road side, also -enhance the charms of these cottages. On the other hand, the towns have -narrow streets, and a gloomy, smoky look. - -Soldiers are garrisoned in the towns as far as Wolverhampton. This -arrangement had been made for some months past, because several large -manufactories in this neighbourhood had stopped working, and the -famishing artizans had adopted forcible measures in order to procure -bread. The country is very well cultivated; mostly with wheat and -barley. The wheat appeared already nearly ripe; the straw was however -very small, owing to the want of rain. The green and blooming hedges -that ran along the fields had a delightful aspect. In comparing the -beautiful and large trees of America, with those of this country, I was -astonished at the contrast between the two, the latter consisting of low -and miserable woodland. However, in the parks and large gardens, several -of which I saw, there are many fine trees; but it is on account of these -many parks of the nobility, that a great quantity of land remains -uncultivated, which, in a country so populous as England, becomes a -matter of the highest importance. - -Between Newcastle and Stone we passed through a village called Trentham, -where the Marquis of Stafford possesses a large castle, situated in an -extensive park; to the left of the road stand large square masses of -stone, said to be the burial place of the Stafford family. Near the town -of Stafford, which is the capital of Staffordshire, the old castle of -Stafford is erected on a high hill. Two of its towers are still -remaining, several rooms of which are fitted up for a sporting -rendezvous. In former times it is said to have been a very important -fortress, but was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell. -Staffordshire is celebrated for its manufactures of earthenware; there -are two very respectable establishments of this kind at -Newcastle-under-Lyne, the most excellent of which is that of Wedgewood -in Etruria, situated two miles from the aforesaid town. We passed -several cotton manufactories, and a silk factory near Congleton, a town -on the other side of Knutsford, containing six thousand souls. - -We crossed at several times to-day two excellent canals, one belonging -to the Sankey Navigation Company, and the other to the Duke of -Bridgewater. We drove twice under this canal. In Stafford I observed a -very decent looking court-house, and upon a hill the central prison of -Staffordshire. I also remarked to-day several coal-mines; particularly -at the last post between Wolverhampton and Birmingham they are very -numerous. For a considerable distance no sign of cultivation was to be -seen; nothing was to be seen but coal and iron-works, with -steam-machines and colossal chimneys in the form of obelisks, and high -flaming furnaces. This district had the appearance of a conflagrated -city, several of whose houses were still burning; the sulphurous smell -that pervaded the atmosphere, almost took the breath away. As we -approached Birmingham, these works began to disappear; we passed through -pleasant villages interspersed with charming blooming gardens, and every -thing foretold that we were approaching a large and wealthy city. This -impression was strengthened on our seeing the citizens returning from -the country in their holy-day suits. It was about nine o'clock in the -evening, when we reached Birmingham. I took up my quarters in the Royal -Hotel, an excellent tavern, where I resided three years previous. In a -public advertisement, stating the advantages connected with this -establishment, travellers are notified that it is located in the -pleasantest part of the town, whereas the finest prospect it presents, -opens upon a burial ground, which also answers as a promenade for the -inhabitants, and as a playground for children. - -In Birmingham three years past, I spent several days; I wished, however, -to see several things once more, and therefore sojourned a few days in -this city. I went to Mr. Thomason's show-room, where every thing, -manufactured in Birmingham, is to be seen. Several rooms contain -uncommonly tasteful plated ware, others trinkets, medals, curiosities, -steel ware, guns, works in papier maché, crystals, &c. The well known -Warwick castle Vase, I again saw of multifarious dimensions; firstly, -of the full size in bronze, for which Mr. Thomason had expressly built a -small house adjoining his own; then another of smaller dimensions, -likewise of bronze, with the marks and ornaments in silver, or -silver-gilt, which must make a very elegant appearance at table. I here -likewise saw imitations of the greatest precious stones known, in their -exact form, size and colour. This collection, in a very neat box, costs -twenty-five guineas. - -Mr. Thomason has connected himself with an artist, who, during his -residence of many years in Russia, had acquired at Tula the secret of -steel working, and was beginning to imitate it here. In his first essay -he tried to inlay a silver waiter with steel; in this attempt, however, -he did not succeed properly. Should it succeed, the introduction of this -invention into England, would be of great importance, as this art being -now confined to Russia, is there considered as a very important secret. -Mr. Thomason had likewise the politeness to conduct me to an armory; -here an immense quantity of various sword-blades was shown me, and also -the mode of trying them; they are strained in a machine, by which they -are bent to a certain degree, and then unbent; they are then examined, -to see if they are not curved, then a block of steel is struck with the -flat of the blade, and a wooden one cut with the edge; and if it is -proof to this, it is considered sound, and stamped. At this moment, -owing to the existence of profound peace, there was little work done in -this manufactory, consequently I could not see the sharpening and -polishing of the blades, which takes place in a particular workhouse. - -In lieu thereof I saw in it the silvering of polished brass wire. This, -first of all consists of a piece half an inch thick, which receives a -very thin silver covering; it is heated in an oven, seized with tongs, -and drawn through different holes, which are cut in pieces of steel, -gradually diminishing in size, until they attain the size of a common -piece of wire. By this means the wire may be drawn out to the thinness -of a hair, and it is remarkable, that it still retains the silver. The -tongs are pulled by a patent chain, the links of which are double -folded, and for the invention of which, the owner of this establishment -has obtained a patent from government. I also visited another show-room, -which has only been two years fitted up; it is very splendidly arranged; -it has a larger space than Mr. Thomason's, but is not so richly and well -provided. - -In the evening I went to the theatre; they exhibited the disagreeable -tragedy of Jane Shore, after which we had a tolerable pantomime, called -the Village Festival, and it closed with an uninteresting melo-drama, -the Woodman's Hut. In the first piece Miss Lacy, from Covent-garden, -personified the character of Jane Shore most capitally, and was well -supported by several of the other actors; the piece, however, is -abominable in itself, and I can imagine nothing more disgusting than to -behold an unfortunate being, struggling on the stage in the arms of -death. In this country, however, it is a favourite piece. They -endeavoured to produce it on the French boards, but it would not take at -all. The theatre is well fitted up: it has a pit, two rows of boxes, and -a gallery, which can accommodate a great many spectators; on this -occasion it was likewise greatly crowded by a noisy mob. I found in the -boxes and pit fewer spectators than I expected, the decorations are well -painted, and the interior lighted with gas. The provincial theatres -receive generally but little encouragement, and their receipts only -increase in summer, when the large London theatres of Covent-garden and -Drury-lane are closed, and the celebrated actors there engaged, make a -trip to the provinces. - -On the 18th of July, at eight o'clock in the morning, I left Birmingham -in a post-chaise and proceeded by a circuitous route to Oxford. I sent -on my baggage by the direct course in the stage. I went out of my way -for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Kenilworth and Warwick castles. -The distance from Birmingham to Oxford by this road is seventy-one -miles, the turnpike at times hilly, but invariably good. Our route lay -through Knowles, a very charming country town. Kenilworth, on the -contrary, is a small ill-looking place, but inclosing splendid ruins of -the old castle, which have become universally notorious by the romance -of Kenilworth. Excepting the ruins of Paulinzelle, those of Kenilworth -are the most beautiful I ever beheld. The castle was built at three -different periods. The most ancient northern part erroneously called -Cæsar's tower, was erected about the year 1120, by Geoffroy de Clinton, -and was a fortress during the early inland strifes between the barons, -the scene of many important events. Towards the close of the fourteenth -century, it fell into the possession of John of Gaunt, who added to it -the western and largest wing, called after him Lancaster buildings. At a -later period Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her favourite, the Earl of -Leicester, who, in 1571, erected the southern portion, called Leicester -buildings; he also built between two towers a tilting yard for -tournaments, and erected likewise, the large portico, which now is -occupied as a dwelling. In this palace he entertained his queen with a -splendid feast, that lasted seventeen days, and which is described in a -particular book. After the earl's death, the castle with its extensive -domains, escheated to the crown. Cromwell partitioned it among several -of his officers, who drained the ditch, that circumscribed the greater -portion of the castle walls, and likewise destroyed the park, and -ultimately the castle, to sell the timber. Nothing but the tower, -containing the portico, remains standing, because one of the officers -occupied two rooms over the gateway, he turned this building into a -dwelling place. This is still to be seen, and is now inhabited by Lord -Clarendon's agent, whose forefathers received a grant of this castle -from Charles II. - -Through this building you enter the grounds belonging to the castle, -after passing through a file of beggarly children, who offer you a -description of the ruins for eighteen pence. Near the old house, called -Gateway, there is a sign saying that the chimney-piece may be seen for -sixpence. A tidy girl receives this stipend with a smart courtsey, and -opens the door leading into an old room; it is one of the two which have -been made out of the gateway. The chimney-piece was probably transported -from the castle during the sacking of it. It is of alabaster, and bears -the inscription, "_Droit et Loyal_," and on each side the initial -letters R. L., Robert Leicester; beneath it is Leicester's coat of arms, -surrounded by the order of the garter; below is inscribed the year 1571, -and the motto, _Vivit post funera virtus_. Over the chimney-piece there -is a square frame, containing the initial letters E. R., Elizabeth -Regina; in the centre of it are holes, which lead one to believe that -weapons were formerly fastened in them. - -The garden lies to the right of this building. Close thereto is the -dungeon, which stands on rising ground between the castle and the moat, -which is now transformed into meadow-ground, and it runs north, west, -and south, round the castle to the tilting ground. The bank of the moat -was lined by a wall, crowned with several towers, one of which was -called the Swan-tower. On the left hand one perceives a large yard, in -the rear of which are the out-houses, and behind them lie the fortified -walls with several towers. On ascending to the right of the castle, you -arrive at the grand court, which is now only encompassed on three sides -by ruins of edifices; of the buildings that were situated on the fourth -side, no trace is remaining. The first ruin that you discover on the -right is that called Cæsar's tower; of this building, which was -quadrangular, three sides are still standing; the walls are on an -average sixteen feet thick. Here a flight of stairs lead to a door, now -built up, which opened to the garden. Here is the only fountain which -has as yet been discovered among the ruins. It is, like the whole -castle, built of red sandstone, and cut, farther down, out of the hard -rock; it is seventy feet deep, but is gradually filling up by the many -stones cast into it. The kitchen adjoins Cæsar's tower, and must have -been a considerably large building, but there are only a few remains of -it. The place where the furnaces and large kettles stood is still -perceptible. - -Adjoining the kitchen is the strong tower, forming the north-west -corner; it is here that the Lancaster buildings commence. In this tower, -which is also supported by uncommonly strong walls, are several -tolerably well preserved winding stairs, by means of which one can -ascend the walls to enjoy a fine and delightful prospect. Here are -likewise cellars, still in good condition. The corners of this tower -lead to small outer-towers provided with port-holes, which must have -served for the defence of the place. Left of this building you reach the -great hall. You observe in the basement story the servant's hall, -vaulted and furnished with central columns, which support the broken -arches to the right and left. Over those arches is still to be seen -where the flooring of the grand banquet-hall stood. The windows of this -hall are very high, in a Gothic style, with columns in their centre. In -the recesses of the windows are still several stone benches, and there -are also two chimney-pieces to be seen in this hall. A smaller room is -connected with it, having likewise a fire-place, which served as a -chapel; and there is also a small closet, which the folks here call -Queen Elizabeth's dressing-room. - -The great hall forms the south-west corner of the castle, and the ruins -connected with it, belong to the southern wing. Close to the great hall, -there are two ruins, of which but little remains to be seen, the first -is called the white hall, the other the presence chamber. The so called -privy chamber is next to them, in which a window and fire-place are -still distinguishable; they say, that the chimney-piece, now in the -gate-house, was taken from this place. Here begins the newest part of -the castle, or the Leicester buildings. They consist of a large, -quadrangular tower, four stories high, in which the place for the -staircase, as well as the different stories, may still be clearly -distinguished. And here terminate these uncommonly interesting and -picturesque ruins, to the beauties of which the creeping ivy, which has -grown very thickly over them, adds considerably. Fortunately, Lord -Clarendon has forbidden, that any portion of the ruins should be taken -away, for previous to the prohibition of such an abuse, the peasantry -were in the habit of carrying away stones from the ruins to build their -houses and for repairing their garden-walls. - -From Kenilworth I travelled five miles through a lovely country to the -town of Warwick, the capital of Warwickshire, to behold the Earl of -Warwick's castle, at that place. Two miles from this town, lie the now -much visited and fashionable springs of Leamington, where with the -exception of the company, nothing remarkable is to be seen. Warwick -stands on stony heights, on the banks of the river Avon, contains about -nine thousand inhabitants, and though a very ancient city, has a -tolerably agreeable appearance. The principal church has an ancient and -venerable aspect, as also two gateways, the remains of the old city -walls, now standing in the middle of the streets. The court-house is a -new edifice, and as the town assizes were then holding, several splendid -equipages were drawn up in front of it. - -I immediately afterwards proceeded to the castle close to the city. It -is a very old building, the foundation of which, it is said, was laid -before the conquest of England by the Normans; the walls and towers -still standing, which environ the court-yard of the castle, are said to -have been erected at that period. The castle stands upon a rock by the -bank of the Avon, and commands a view of a surprisingly romantic -country. At the foot of this ancient castle, at the water's edge, are -the castle mills, which on account of their venerable appearance, and -the waterfall, caused by a dam in the river, greatly enhance the beauty -of the scene. Behind the mill are to be seen the ruins of a bridge which -led over the river, and is now overgrown with ivy. Quite in the back -ground, one discovers the new bridge over which the road from Leamington -runs. These groups produce an uncommonly pleasing prospect. - -On approaching the castle from the city, you see a gate with a Gothic -tower, which serves as a habitation for the gate-keeper. Hence, after -inscribing your name in a book, you continue on your way to the castle. -This road leads through the park, and is mostly cut in the rock, the -sides of which are very picturesquely overgrown with ivy. - -On attaining an open space, the whole castle stands in view; it is -approached over a stone bridge, through a gate furnished with a -portcullis, and then you find yourself in a spacious court-yard, the -castle standing to your left, in front, and to the right the lofty walls -that surround the court-yard, studded with towers. Grated gates lead -underneath the towers, to the park that surrounds the castle. I entered -the castle up a handsome spacious staircase, and there I found the neat -house-keeper, who for money and good words, shows strangers the interior -of the castle. - -First you enter the great hall, the walls are lined with carved oak -wood, and ornamented with scutcheons and ancient arms, and with three -real colossal elk-horns, the largest of which was found in Ireland, and -the other two in America. From this hall there is a fine view into a -considerable suite of rooms, and from the windows the charming prospect -of the Avon, and the before-mentioned mills and bridges. - -From the hall you proceed into the ante-room; here I admired two -paintings by Van Dyk; one represents a lady as large as life, belonging -to the Brooke family, with her son; the other is the portrait of Queen -Henrietta Maria, the consort of Charles the first. In the same room is -to be seen, the extremely handsome portrait of Queen Johanna of Naples, -by Raphael; also the portrait of the Marquis Spinola, armed cap-à-pied, -a painting of Rubens; the portrait of count Gondomar, the Spanish -ambassador, near the court of James I., a production of Don Diego -Velasquez de Silva; and two very charming landscapes, by Poussin, which -however, require to be retouched. In the same room there is a table -inlaid in Florentine mosaic, two vases of lava, several Etruscan vases -and lances, which are to be seen in almost all the rooms, a marble bust -of the present Lord Warwick, by Nollekens, and a book-case of tortoise -shell inlaid with brass. - -Adjoining this chamber is the cedar drawing-room, so called, because the -walls are wainscoted with cedar wood, which, notwithstanding its -antiquity, sends forth a charming odour. There is likewise in this room -a handsome fire-place, and a marble table, inlaid with lava. Among the -paintings are five by Van Dyk, viz. the Countess of Carlisle, -Charles I., the Duke of Alba, the Marquis of Montrose and the landscape -painter, Martin Ryckaerds. Beside these there is a Circe of Guido, -a very beautiful piece, and two paintings of less value, one by Romney, -representing the celebrated E. W. Montague in a Turkish costume, and the -other by Patoun, representing a muse. - -Adjoining this hall there is a room, which, owing to the heavy gildings -on its walls, is called the gilt-room. Here are two paintings by Rubens, -the one of Lord Arundel, the collector of the celebrated antiquities at -Oxford, known by the name of the Arundelian marbles, and the other -representing St. Ignatius. This piece was painted by Rubens, for the -Jesuits College at Antwerp, and was transported hither from that city. -There is also a well painted portrait of Prince Rupert, by an unknown -artist, another of the Prince of Orange, by Holbein; the portrait of a -lady, by Sir Peter Lely; several of Vandyk's productions, one -representing Admiral Russell, and another a Spanish General; by the same -master hand, the portraits of Charles I., Lord Northumberland, Queen -Henrietta Maria, two portraits of the celebrated Lord Stafford, one of -them representing this unfortunate statesman in his earlier, and the -other in his latter years, the portrait of Lord Warwick, a full-size -portrait of Prince Rupert, and another of the Marquis of Huntley. Those -portraits are altogether executed in a masterly manner. The portrait of -a lady, by Sir Peter Lely; two small Murillos, one representing a girl -with a pen, and the other a child, blowing soap-bubbles; moreover, -a portrait of Lord Lindsay of Charles 1st's time, by Cornelius Janssen, -and a Tintoretto, representing the Italian sage Davila. It it a pity -that several of these pictures hung in the shade, and that in the -usually clouded atmosphere of England, they cannot be properly seen. -In this as well as in the ante-room, were several vessels by Majolica, -ornamented with handsome paintings copied from drawings of Raphael. - -You next proceed to the state bed-room, hung with old tapestry, -representing French gardens. The richly ornamented bed is said to have -been fitted up by the order of Queen Ann. It contains a bust of the -Black Prince in full armour by Wildon, and three paintings, a full-size -portrait of the Duchess Margaret of Parma, by Titian, a family portrait -by Sir Peter Lely, and a profile of the unhappy Earl of Essex, done by -Zucchero, an Italian painter, whom political causes had driven from his -native land to England, where he received protection, patronage, and a -friendly reception from Queen Elizabeth. - -Next to this room is the small state dressing-room, from the windows of -which there is an extensive and fine prospect. It contains a precious -collection of paintings; one by Paul Veronese; a very grand sketch by -Rubens, of the four evangelists; two old men's heads by the same master; -two landscapes by Salvator Rosa; four Vandyk's, consisting of the second -Earl of Bedford; tritons and sea-horses; a study; a sketch of St. -Sebastian, and a bacchanalian scene; two by Gerard Douw, one an -excellent portrait of a Mrs. Digby, abbess of a convent, and the other -an effect of light, representing an old woman eating; two by Teniers, -scenes of witches and the interior of a watch-house, hung with armour; -three Holbeins, the first a portrait of Luther, the second the -unfortunate Ann Boleyn, and the third her sister Catharine Boleyn, aunt -and tutress of Queen Elizabeth, and in the midst of these portraits, -that of Henry VIII. in his childhood. There are two pieces by Steenwyck, -one representing St. Peter in prison, and the other his liberation -therefrom. Portraits of two of Charles the second's mistresses are -likewise to be seen here, as also a copy of a portrait of Henry IV. -of France, by Patoun. - -A small cabinet, called the Compass Window, adjoins the just mentioned -apartment; it takes its name from a painted window. Among the paintings -in this room are a battle piece by Schut, a sea-storm by Vandervelde, -and several invaluable pieces. - -From this cabinet you enter the chapel by a gallery which runs in the -rear of the before-mentioned room. I remarked in it a full-length -portrait of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyk, and a half-length -portrait of Oliver Cromwell, by R. Walker. The chapel is rather small, -contains the arms of the Warwick family, and over the altar Gothic -ornaments, carved in wood. - -On returning to the large hall, you reach the dining-room through it. It -is a splendid, large hall, containing an ancient marble table, and three -large portraits of the Prince of Wales, grandfather of the present king, -his consort a princess of Gotha, holding George III. in baby-clothes on -her lap; a Lord Brook, a copy by Patoun, who, as preceptor to Lord -Warwick, was more of an amateur than a painter. These paintings are -devoid of taste, and the best things about them are their heavy gilt and -ornamented frames. Over the portrait of the princess are the arms of -Saxony. - -Adjoining the large hall is likewise the breakfast-room. In this room -are the following most excellently executed paintings: Charles 1st's -children, by Vandyk, and a portrait of a female, by the same artist; two -lions, by Rubens; and a full-length portrait of Admiral Tromp, by -Rembrandt. Three paintings by an unknown master; the unfortunate Mary -Stuart, with her son as a child; a Lord Brooke, and Sir Philip Sydney. - -After I had inspected the castle, I passed out through a private gate in -the lofty wall of the castle-yard, and proceeded to the park over a -stone bridge that crosses the dry castle moat. Groves are beautifully -interspersed with bowling greens in this park; a solid pebbled path -takes you round the park in about half an hour. There are several fine -prospects, and the place is well stocked with evergreens, which during -the last winter, I had many opportunities of admiring in a state of -nature. Three years ago, while journeying for the first time through -Great Britain, I could not help admiring in the English parks, the -luxurious abundance of evergreens and their lovely growth; but after -beholding these plants in their native land, growing in their full -vigour, the most splendid English gardens dwindled into insignificance, -when compared with the beauties of nature in America. I observed a -number of fine lofty cedars of Lebanon, which are to be found in most of -the extensive English gardens. In this park there is also a very large -hot-house, the plants raised in which are now elegantly distributed -throughout the garden. In this hot-house I perceived the celebrated -antique vase, the copy of which, in bronze, I had seen at Mr. Thomason's -in Birmingham. This remarkable antique was found not far from Hadrian's -Villa in the vicinity of Tivoli. It was first purchased by Sir William -Hamilton, then English ambassador at Naples, who sold it to the late -Lord Warwick. It is of white marble, round in form, and will hold one -hundred and sixty-three gallons. It has two handles of entwined vine -branches, which with their elegant leaves and heavy clusters of grapes, -wind themselves round the upper part of the vase. On the under part is -seen the panther's skin, and on it several well finished heads of -satyrs, as well as several thyrsus and augur staves. The vase is in a -state of high preservation, and only one satyr's head is replaced; the -remaining ornaments are not in the least injured. - -During my walk through the park, I passed along the bank of the Avon, -which runs at the foot of the rock, on which the castle is built. On a -small black slate, attached to the rock, there is an inscription, -stating that a young man, one of the Bagot family, was drowned there -while bathing. The unfortunate father has erected this little monument -to the memory of his son. On my return to the castle, I ascended one of -the towers, called Gay's tower, about one hundred and fifty feet high; -this tower is very well preserved, and is provided with fortifications. -In the interior there is a small room, and from the top of the tower -there is a fine and extensive prospect. - -On my return to the city, the stage for Stratford-on-Avon was about -starting; I took a seat, and after eight miles journey, found myself -once more on the grand turnpike leading from Birmingham to Oxford. - -Stratford is a small, inconsiderable, ill-built town, but celebrated as -the birth place of SHAKSPEARE. One of the smallest houses bears the -following inscription, "in this house the great Shakspeare was born." It -is now a butcher's stall and belongs to strangers, to whom Shakspeare's -posterity were compelled by poverty to dispose of it. It is said that he -was born in a room of the Upper story; in this apartment are several old -pieces of furniture, the existence of which they flatteringly endeavour -to trace from the days of Shakspeare, also a poor portrait of the poet, -and a copy of his will; and a spectacle case made of the wood of a -mulberry tree, which they say was planted by him. - -At Stratford I took a post-chaise, proceeded on my journey, and at ten -o'clock in the evening reached Oxford, which is thirty-nine miles from -Stratford. I took up my lodgings in the Star Hotel. As I had seen Oxford -three years previous, I merely sojourned there half a day, with the -intention of beholding once more, in the Bodleïan Library, the lovely -portrait of the unfortunate Mary Stuart, painted by Zucchero, and which -had formerly pleased me so much that I considered it as the best -likeness I had ever seen of that interesting woman. I therefore -proceeded to that library: I hurried through the library hall, but made -a much longer stay in the gallery of paintings. The sight of the -portrait of Mary Stuart renewed all my old impressions, and I gazed -intently upon it for a considerable time with the greatest pleasure. -I likewise remarked a collection of seven paintings by Schalk, effects -of light, representing the seven mortal sins, very well painted, -moreover a number of pieces by English painters, and a number of -portraits of the patrons and benefactors of the university, of its -chancellors, and several of the most celebrated literati who had resided -in the university. Also a few by Holbein, among which, the portraits of -Luther and Erasmus, pleased me the most. A full-length likeness of -Charles XII. of Sweden, by Schroeder, is uncommonly well finished; of -the same size, and next to it, hangs the portrait of Frederic William I. -King of Prussia. The physiognomy of the former, and the entire form, are -expressive of the great and original genius of that monarch; there is -something abhorrent, pedantic, and tyrannical in the features of the -latter. - -The library contains several models of Grecian architecture, which are -skilful imitations in plaster; also a model of the Parthenon at Athens, -which very agreeably recalled to my mind Philadelphia and the Bank of -the United States. Here is likewise to be seen a model of the -Amphitheatre of Verona, cut in cork, and an elegant collection of the -Elgin marble bas reliefs, well imitated in plaster. A full-length statue -of one of the Lords of Warwick, in bronze, representing him in a warlike -costume, is also well worthy of the attention of travellers. - -After having here satisfied my curiosity, I went to the Radcliff -Library, which is built in the form of a cupola, in order to enjoy a -view of the city from its roof. Fortunately the weather was very clear, -which seldom occurs in England, and as there are no manufactories and -steam-engines in Oxford, the atmosphere is not obscured by coal smoke. -The city, owing to its ancient university and churches, has a singular -appearance, and though I had seen during my travels a great many cities, -still I found none to be compared with Oxford. The university, its -twenty colleges, and five halls, have the appearance of so many old -castles: such is also the appearance of the Bodleïan Library, that -stands near the Radcliff library. In the court-yard of the former, there -is a gate, in which the five orders of architecture are placed over each -other, which produces a strange effect. Near the gate are four Tuscan -pillars, over these four Doric, above these four Ionic, and again over -these four Corinthian, and this strange conjunction is terminated by -four Roman columns. Two columns are always joined together. Between the -fourth row, the statue of James I. stands in a niche, next which, on the -right, as I believe, there is a Minerva, and on the left the university -is personified by a kneeling figure, to whom the learned king most -graciously tenders his own works. Four thousand students are said to -belong to the university, but there were very few then present, it being -vacation time. Therefore the city with its ancient buildings, looked -rather dull. - -At twelve o'clock, noon, on the 19th of July, I left Oxford in the -post-chaise, and proceeded to London, which although fifty-eight miles -from Oxford, I reached in six hours. It is incredible how fast one -travels on this route and how quick they change horses. I was by chance -enabled to retain the chaise all the way from Oxford to Hounslow. The -moment I arrived at a post-house, a servant came instantly to demand, -whether I wished to stop or proceed; no sooner did I answer in the -affirmative, than he would call out for horses, and the whole proceeding -lasted at the utmost one minute. The leader was brought out, ready -harnessed, and put to; the postillion followed on the saddle-horse from -the stable, and remained in the saddle while they were gearing the -horses; the stable boy then requested his fee, and off we went. During -this journey, I was only detained three minutes at each post. They -charge for carriage and horses, eighteen pence a mile, and the -drink-money, three pence per mile. Since my journeying in this country -three years previous, postage had been raised three pence. - -The road lay through a cultivated and woody country, and we traversed -several rising grounds. We passed many fine large country-seats, -surrounded by extensive parks. From Salt Hill, which is a very pretty -little place, there is on the right, a charming view of the castle of -Windsor, two miles distant, on the lofty round tower of which was -displayed the royal standard as a sign that the king was there. The -castle has really a very imposing appearance. The large Gothic church of -Eton College, recalled unpleasant recollections to my mind. For on my -visit to this college, three years past, they showed me on a shelf a -number of elegantly tied, long birch rods, with which youth, engaged -there in study, are flogged, and for the supply of which, a regular -contract is made with the steward. In a handsome village, called Slough, -stands the dwelling of the celebrated German astronomer, Herschel; there -is still to be seen in the garden, the stand supporting the telescope, -forty-eight feet long, by five feet in diameter, with which Herschel -made his great astronomical discoveries. Hounslow is a charming town, -and very lively, owing to its proximity to London. The number of stages -and other carriage, which I met with in this neighbourhood, is scarcely -to be credited. This concourse of vehicles, and afterwards the multitude -of country-seats, which follow one another in rapid succession, together -with the chain of towns, that continually present themselves, indicated -clearly, that I was approaching the greatest city in Europe, and perhaps -in the world. I remarked in Hammersmith and in Kensington, -a considerable number of new and handsomely built houses, that had been -erected within the last three years. We drove through Hyde Park into -Piccadilly street, and thence into Albemarle street, where I found -excellent quarters in Grillion's hotel. - -I made a stay of six days in London. To speak of the circle of my -acquaintance in which I moved during my residence in this bustling city, -would ill become this book, and to make any mention of London itself -would be both useless and superfluous. Consequently, I shall present but -a few particulars. - -Whoever is obliged to make many visits to London, or whose business -takes him to many houses, loses an enormous quantity of time; to him one -day is as nothing. From my hotel to Mr. Goeman's,[II-40] who resides in -the city, in the neighbourhood of the East India company's stores, it -took me three quarters of an hour. At first to a stranger, a walk of -this kind is by no means tedious, on account of the great and strange -bustle surrounding him. In the stirring part of the city there is a -store in almost every house, and as the English are known to possess -much taste in displaying their wares, these stores have an amusing, -interesting, and charming appearance. In most of the streets the -pavement had been cast aside, and the streets were Macadamised; an -improvement which is both beneficial to those who ride, and to the -poor-built houses, which, owing to the rolling of heavy carriages along -the pavement, were dreadfully shaken. I had long been aware that several -merchants and tradesmen decorated their signs with the names of those -members of the royal family, by whom they were particularly patronised, -viz. corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent, &c.; this time I -remarked in Knight's bridge, on my way to Kensington, a sign bearing the -inscription of "only purveyor of asses milk to the royal family." -Through the medium of Mr. Goeman, I received from the celebrated -engineer Brunel, an admission to visit the new tunnel, under the Thames; -it was a five miles drive from my lodgings. The entrance is near the -church of Rotherhithe. To commence the work they had to dig a round pit -seventy-five feet deep, above twenty feet in diameter, and walled in -with bricks. In the centre of this pit they have constructed a -quadrangular wooden scaffold. On this is erected a pumping machine, by -which the spring water that gushes out from the tunnel, is pumped off. -The water collects itself in a basin under the scaffold. The ejection of -it is accomplished by means of an iron pump, which draws off the water -from the basin, and forces it into an iron tube, which passes out from -the pit. Another pump and tube is in reserve to be immediately used, in -case the former should require repair. In the interior of this scaffold -there are two buckets, to hoist the earth from out the tunnel, one of -which comes up filled while the other goes down empty. These buckets -have four small iron wheels, and rest upon a board. The moment it -reaches the top, it is received by a workman, who carries it twenty feet -along a railway, to the place for depositing the earth, and after -emptying it carries it back on its board; that it may be let down while -the other is coming up filled. The place, into which the earth is -thrown, is a large wooden receiver, which is erected in the manner of a -bridge. In the bottom of this receiver are several holes, which can be -opened and closed by means of slides. The wagons destined for carrying -away the earth, drive underneath such a hole, the slide then is drawn -back, and the wagon is filled with earth and drives off. Up to this time -none but silicious earth has been dug out of the tunnel, and this was -appropriated to the filling up of the swampy ground, near Southwark. But -now they find clay, which is used in burning bricks. The machinery, by -which the buckets are hoisted and lowered, and that moves the pump, is -set in motion by a species of steam-engine, called the expansive engine, -an invention of Mr. Brunel. I did not perfectly comprehend its -mechanism, and could only perceive that it occupies a very small space, -and acts with great facility; there are two boilers and two machines, -one of which is unemployed, but can immediately be set in motion, -whenever any thing happens to the other, so that nothing may stop the -work. - - [Footnote II-40: A respectable London merchant, and native of - Flanders, to whom I am much indebted for very important services.] - -Around the wooden scaffold, stairs run down to the bottom of the pit. -My guide, Mr. Armstrong, who inspects the work under Mr. Brunel's -direction, conducted me. When arrived at the bottom of the pit, we found -ourselves at the entrance of the tunnel, which then ran already, one -hundred and twenty feet under ground, to the bed of the Thames. It was -conceived that about one-third part of the work had been completed. The -tunnel consists of two vaults for two passages, one of them is for -carriages passing in, and the other for those going out. Along the -partition wall of those two vaults, there is on each side a somewhat -elevated side-walk for pedestrians; this wall is open in some places in -order to admit of a communication between both walks. It is lighted by -means of portable gas, which is contained in copper barrels. - -The manner that the work is conducted, cannot be clearly explained -without a drawing. The scaffold, upon which the workmen stand who are -employed in digging out the earth, consists of thirty-six small boxes, -lying in three rows above each other. This scaffold is at the end of the -tunnel, and rests exactly against the earth to be taken away. There are -three men in each box, one to break the ground with a pick-axe, the -other to shovel it out of the box, and the third to throw it on a cart, -in which it is carried into the pit, whence it is raised in the buckets. -For the safety of the workmen, cross-timbers are used to prop up the -earth that is to be dug out. The first workman, on beginning his -excavation, removes the upper beam and hacks out the earth behind it; -which done, he takes away the second beam, and removes the second tier -of earth, then the third, &c. If sufficient earth, about a foot wide, -has been dug away from behind the first box, then the two boxes -adjoining, begin the same operation. During this time the masons are not -idle; for they continue working in the same proportion at the vault -which has to support the earth above the tunnel. When, however, all the -earth before the whole scaffold has been taken away, it is moved forward -by means of steel screws. Both above and below the scaffold there are -iron plates, with sharp edges, to facilitate the moving of it. On this -plan the work proceeds at the rate of two feet in twenty-four hours; it -is hoped that it would be completed in two years time; they have been -over a year already working at it. I regret very much my not having met -with Mr. Brunel, who is likewise the inventor of the block-machine at -Portsmouth, and other very useful engines. - -In Leicester square there were two fine panoramas; one representing the -city of Edinburgh, and the other that of Mexico;[II-41] the former -panoramic view was taken from Caltonhill, and I recognized every place, -owing to my having been there three years previous. In beholding the -second, I regretted anew that my affairs during the last winter did not -permit me to undertake a journey to Mexico. The beautiful blue sky -reminded me of the happy days I passed in New Orleans, and I recognized -the lofty Andes from the description, which I have so often read of -them. Mexico deserves, if I am to judge from the panorama, to be called -the city of palaces, as it is generally styled. In order to give an idea -of the manners of the people, the artist gives a representation of the -circus on the great square during the time of a bull-fight, and not far -from it a procession. - - [Footnote II-41: [Now exhibiting in New York.]--TRANS.] - -At Regent's place a diorama was to be seen. You are conducted into a -pretty dark round saloon, and you perceive there, through a square hole, -a painting that is lighted in a manner which cannot be discovered. The -painting represents a church in Scotland called Rosslyn chapel. You seem -to be at the entrance of the church, and you see that the sun darts his -beams from the side and causes multifarious shades, on account of the -bushes and trees in front of the windows of the church. In the rear of -the church you see a small door, leading to a yard, planted with -underwood, and in the back ground, a Gothic building. By and by the sun -disappears, and you perceive by the effect of light, that a storm is -approaching; then you see the effect of rain, and after this disappears, -you enjoy the finest sunshine. The illusion is so perfect, that you seem -to hear the rain. In the interior of the church several objects are -represented with the greatest accuracy, viz. a part of a scaffold, to -which ropes are attached, a basket with tools, &c. The Gothic pillars of -the church display a particularly handsome view. - -After having contemplated this painting for a considerable time, -a signal is given with a bell. The floor on which the spectators stand, -turns to another opening through which you have a view of the city of -Rouen, in France. Now the same effects of light as in the other piece -are displayed, and you imagine yourself to be in the place, which is -represented to your sight. But the first piece made the best impression -on me. The finest part of this diorama is the representation of interior -parts of buildings. - -I was delighted at the fine view of the newly-finished buildings of -Regent's park, the construction of which was begun during my visit three -years ago. This new quarter consists of palaces. At Mr. Ackermann's -store I enjoyed a sight of the greatest variety of fancy articles. It is -only to be regretted that the works published at his establishment are -so very expensive. I had the pleasure of becoming personally acquainted -with Mr. Ackermann, this venerable philanthropist is plain in -appearance, but is very interesting in his conversation. He spoke much -with me about my happily finished travels, and invited me to his -country-seat; but I was obliged to decline this invitation on account of -the short time which remained at my disposal. I next visited the store -of another German, a cutler and manufacturer of surgical instruments, -Mr. Weiss; he is a native of Rostock, but already more than thirty years -established in this city, and particularly in making surgical -instruments, he is said to be the first manufacturer in England. He -showed me several apparatus and instruments, among which there was one -for removing a stone, without the necessity of performing the operation -of cutting. He showed me the cast of a stone as large as a chesnut, -which had been extracted from the bladder of a man, without any cutting -operation. Moreover, he showed me a poison pump of his own invention, by -means of which, poisons that have been swallowed, may be extracted from -the stomach. This machine consists of a brass tube which contains the -pump; to this is attached a long tube of elastic gum, which terminates -in a sack of the same substance provided with holes. This tube is passed -through the throat into the stomach, and when the sack has entered the -stomach, the poison is pumped through the flexible tube into the brass -one. By turning the handle of the pump the gum tube is closed; then it -is forced down again, by means of which another valve on the other side -of the brass tube opens, and to this another elastic tube is attached, -through which the extracted poison is ejected. Then the handle is turned -a second time, which closes this valve and opens the first one, leading -to the tube that is fixed in the stomach, and the operation is continued -until no poison is left in the stomach. Mr. Weiss told me, that some -weeks ago, by means of this instrument, his son had saved the life of a -girl, who had taken a considerable dose of arsenic in a fit of amorous -desperation. - -The English nobility give, at certain times, in the British institution, -Pallmall street, a public exhibition of their collections of precious -paintings. Just now there was the king's collection of paintings from -his palace, Carlton-house, because they were about to demolish this -palace, and in its place erect an edifice after the model of the -Parthenon at Athens, which is calculated to contain the works of English -artists. This is a fine idea, and certainly encouraging for the artists -of this nation, but it is a pity that it causes the destruction of this -elegant palace. The British institution is a building which consists of -three large halls, and which receive their light from above. The -collection mostly contained paintings of Flemish artists, some English, -and a few Italian and French. There were seven pieces by Rubens, amongst -which I particularly noticed his own likeness and that of his first -wife, finished in the same manner as those in the collection of Mr. -Schamp at Ghent, and at Warwick Castle; besides these, a landscape with -figures, representing the history of St. George, with the portraits of -Queen Henrietta Maria and Charles I. for whom it was done. Seven -paintings by Vandyk, among which the portraits of Charles I. in three -views, which his lady had sent to the statuary Bernini at Rome, to -finish the bust of the king therefrom. A sketch, studies of horses and -horsemen, of remarkable value, and a full-size portrait of Gaston de -France, and two portraits of Queen Henrietta Maria, which, like that of -her unfortunate husband, I might call unavoidable, because it is to be -found almost in every collection of paintings in England. I found seven -pieces by Rembrandt, among which were several excellent portraits, and -his own; they were all easily distinguished by his particular colouring. -Fourteen paintings by Teniers, collections of people; small portraits; -a view of the towns of Holland, and a couple of landscapes, one of which -represents likewise, the artist, his wife, and his gardener; a real -ornament to this collection. One of these pieces, representing a village -festival, had been on the artist's harpsichord. I admired two other -pieces, in the same style, by J. Ostade, and seven by A. Ostade; six by -Jan Steen. One of the latter, very excellently finished, represented an -elderly man, just rising from bed, who is listening to the reproaches of -a young girl, for his niggardliness; she holds forth to him a trifle of -money, and an old woman is urging him to be more generous. Four effects -of light, by Schalken, and a portrait by Holbein, are likewise worthy of -attention. Nine pieces by Wouverman are easily distinguished by the -white horses, representing skirmishes and country scenes. Seven pictures -by Mieris are to be known by their fine keeping. Three pieces are by -G. Douw, one by Slingelandt, and five by Metzu. A landscape by Ruisdael, -and two by Hobbema, attracted my particular attention, as well as eleven -pieces by Vandevelde, representing sea-pieces, landscapes, and views of -several cities of Holland; two of the latter are finished by him and -Vanderheyden jointly; I observed likewise, four very fine pieces by -Vanderwerff, one of them representing the Roman Mercy, the other a -concert, the third Lot with his daughters, and the fourth two children. - -The collection is likewise rich in paintings of animals; there are four -capital works by G. Potter, one of them representing two hogs, as true -as if they were living. A piece by Hondekoeter, representing a chicken, -belongs likewise to this class, as well as ten pieces by Cuyp, in which -the landscapes are very well finished. Among these I enjoyed -particularly a camp-scene with a horseman in the fore-ground, engaged in -currying his horse. Six very good pieces, by Berghem ought not to be -omitted, nor a handsome sea-piece by Buckhuizen, with a view of Briel in -the back-ground. - -Besides these pieces, there is a good collection of other paintings of -the same school, but it would lead me too far, to mention them all. From -other schools there are but a few and of less value. A landscape with -sheep, by Titian; Christ taken down from the Cross, by Michael Angelo -and Venusti, and another piece by Gonzalez. Among the paintings of -modern times, I found the portrait of Garrick and his wife, by Hogarth; -a domestic scene, by Greuze, and several pieces of an Italian painter, -Zeffani. One of them, which has become more generally known by the -copperplate of Bartolozzi, represents the Royal Academy of London, and -the other the Gallery of Florence, with the portraits of several -Englishmen of note, who sojourned at that time in Florence. By the same -artist I saw two pieces, representing the interior of two royal palaces, -with the children of George III. and their mother. These tasteless -pieces, compared with the before-mentioned elegant paintings, make an -unpleasant impression. I saw eight pieces by Sir Joshua Reynolds, among -which his own portrait and two full-size portraits of the Portuguese -Chief Marshal Count von der Lippe, and of the English General Marquis of -Granby. These two pieces are masterly works, and full of expression. You -distinguish in the countenance of Count von der Lippe and in his whole -posture, his profound and enterprising spirit, and in the features of -Lord Granby his great benevolence, which procured him in the army the -name of the soldier's friend. The features of the count excite respect, -while those of the lord claim your attachment. I was much less pleased -with the historical pieces of Sir Joshua. The most handsome of the newer -paintings was undoubtedly the interior of the choir of a Capuchin chapel -by the French painter Granet. The expression of the countenances of the -monks is unparalleled; in some you see piety, in others listlessness; -another couple make sport of the exceeding piety of a monk, kneeling in -the middle of the hall; the countenance of a young, tall, stout monk, is -the personification of fanaticism. Near the altar stands a monk in the -sacerdotal habit, with two choristers and tapers in their hands, the -monk singing a hymn. The light is very well executed; it enters through -a large window in the back ground, and makes a fine effect on the bare -crown of the head and the gray beard of the priest. I think this piece -one of the finest of the whole collection. I saw here a great many -gentlemen and ladies, and it is said to be fashionable to visit this -splendid gallery in the afternoon. - -On the 26th of July, (the anniversary of the day on which I first landed -on American ground at Boston,) I went to the custom-house for the -purpose of taking passage for Ostend on board the steam-boat Earl of -Liverpool, Captain Peak, which was laying there at anchor. At the -custom-house I was quite surprised. I expected to see the splendid, -newly-erected palace for the offices of the custom-house, the same -which, three years ago, I had admired so much, and instead of it, found -nothing but ruins. They said that the foundation had not been well -enough examined upon which the custom-house had been built by contract; -the building cracked, the large, splendid hall was near falling down, -and in order to prevent this accident, they were obliged to demolish the -centre building; both wings of the building were yet supported by beams, -but they soon will have to demolish them likewise, in order to build an -entirely new house. The gentleman who made the contract to have the -house built, lays the blame of this bad work upon the architect, and he -upon a commission, under whose control he acted. - -The Earl of Liverpool, of one hundred and thirty tons, with two engines, -left London at eleven o'clock, A. M., and on the next morning at six -o'clock I landed at Ostend. At four o'clock, P. M. I proceeded by the -way of Bruegge to Ghent. During this journey I remembered an observation -which I had heard frequently in America, that upon an American visiting -Europe for the first time, nothing makes a greater impression than the -old monuments, which trace the time past for many centuries, and which -are a proof of the prosperity and good taste of preceding generations. -I found this observation perfectly true, by my own feelings on returning -from America, which exhibits none but new objects, and has nothing but a -bustling present struggling for future improvement. - -On the 28th of July, at four o'clock, P. M., I arrived at Ghent. - - - THE END. - - - * * * * * - * * * * - * * * * * - - -Errors and Inconsistencies (noted by transcriber) - -Spelling was corrected if the mistake was clearly mechanical, or -inconsistent with the author's (or translator's) usage elsewhere. -This includes some spellings that were acceptable in 1828, but are -different from other occurrences of the same word. - -All commas are as printed. Inconsistent italicization of ships' names -is as in the original. The notation "invisible" means that there is an -appropriately sized empty space, but the punctuation itself is missing. - - "Bodleïan" is written with dieresis - "chesnut" is standard for the time and is used consistently - "team boat" (referring to canals) is not an error - - "lime-stone" and "sand-stone" are hyphenated at the beginning - of the book but later become single words - "free-stone" or "freestone" are not frequent enough to establish - a pattern - "country seat" starts out as two words, but later becomes - hyphenated "country-seat" - the inconsistent spacing of "no( )where" "every( )where" - and "else( )where" is unchanged - "back ground" is generally two words; "fore-ground" occurs only once - -Spelling (unchanged): - - appointed him his aid - present as aid to the Emperor - Mr. Butler, his aid - [_the spelling "aid" is used consistently_] - the tatoed and dried head of a New Zealand chief - roast-beef, plumb-pudding, &c. - This place is called the antichamber. - it is fixed in a cramp [_text unchanged: error for "clamp"?_] - some negroes, who were frolicing during the Christmas holy-days - corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent - [_"Duchess" and "Dutchess" are each used once_] - -French (corrected): - - From the left wing a line runs _en crémaillère_ - [crémaillére] - When a lady is left sitting, she is said to be "bredouille." - [bredouillè] - so that they would consider their labour in the light of a corvée. - [corveè] - -Errors (corrected): - - strange bas-reliefs, representing ancient hunting scenes - [bass-reliefs] - the rooms are not large; the beds [is not] - On the top of the capitol is a cupola [cupalo] - the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings - of insignificance and grandeur [simultaneons ... insignificence] - then a company of sappers and miners, [minors] - in which again each sex has its own side [each sect] - There are two paintings by Teniers [painting] - the office and place of deposit for bound bibles [deposite] - They recall to memory Glenn's Falls on the Hudson - [recal; _"recall" is used consistently elsewhere_] - the other loses by faint colouring [looses] - an English copy of the illustrations of Göthe's Faust laid open. - [illustratrations; _spelling "Göthe" with umlaut unchanged_] - In a hollow place there is a basin, or rather a reservoir [their is] - close by it stands the prison, or county gaol, [goal] - this journey of one hundred and ninety-eight miles [ninty-eight] - the log houses were only employed as negro cabins [onegr] - we might lie several days, perhaps weeks here [several day] - because they had not received their pay for some time. - [_missing "not"_] - Several of the French families here settled [familes] - so as not to lose themselves in the woods [loose] - and on this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary [acount] - has followed me even in America like an evil genius [and evil] - an inspection on the Red river, the Arkansas, and New Orleans - [Arkansa; _"Arkansas" is used consistently elsewhere_] - a great part of the houses are built of brick; [_missing "a"_] - We frequently rode along the new national turnpike road - [frequently road] - over some stone bridges of sumptuous construction [contruction] - about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio [righ] - parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. [callel] - the girls learn to sew and knit [sow] - The gentlemen above named accompanied me to the vessel. [accompaned] - every thing, manufactured in Birmingham, [Burmingham] - a fine view into a considerable suite of rooms [considerble] - until no poison is left in the stomach [stomuch] - -Spacing, hyphenization, capitalization: - - By his highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. - [_capitalized as shown_] - two stories besides a ground floor, and may contain [floor,and] - so that it is excellently adapted to waterworks - [_anomalous missing hyphen unchanged_] - They have a large kitchen garden [they have] - The corpse is put in the corpse-house [the corpse] - views of Monticello, Mount Vernon, the principal buildings in - Washington [Mount-Vernon] - many evergreen trees and bushes. [ever green] - with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman [Herries;he] - This is, however, the case with most of the stores [this is] - -Punctuation: - - Footnote I-4: [This manuscript .... of London.]--TRANS. - [_printed "of London.--TRANS.]": changed for consistency_] - On the 9th, at 6 A. M. she arrived at _Falmouth_. [6 A. M] - Schenectady.-- Utica.-- Rochester. [--Utica--] - and produce much vexation in consequence of the baggage. - [_final . missing_] - the village of St. Regis, the last belonging to the United States. - [_final . missing_] - a monument erected by the colony in honour of Lord Nelson. - [_final . missing_] - to protect the place of embarkation by a fort. - [_final . missing_] - On the ensuing morning I went with Mr. Halbach to Mr. Vaux - [Mr Vaux: _period invisible_] - mineralogy and geology.-- ... lectures on chemistry. - [_missing . after "geology" and "chemistry"_] - drawing of the human figure.-- [_final . missing_] - The cotton cleaned from its seed is put into a large chest, - pressed in, and packed up. - [_final . missing_] - Mr. Nott studied in England and France - [Mr Nott: _period invisible_] - the 16th ultimo from Liverpool [ultimo.] - [Footnote II-9: [... within these accursed walls.]--TRANS. - [_missing -- before "Trans."_] - the river is fordable in many places above the falls." - [_close quote missing_] - a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during forty miles." - [_close quote missing_] - even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood, - will cease [_punctuation unchanged_] - one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here, [work here.] - in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence - [St Lawrence] - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels Through North America, v. 1-2, by -Berhard Saxe-Weimar Eisenach - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS *** - -***** This file should be named 41913-8.txt or 41913-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/9/1/41913/ - -Produced by Louise Hope, Chris Curnow and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - -</pre> - +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41913 ***</div> </body> </html> diff --git a/41913.txt b/41913.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 6d2b36d..0000000 --- a/41913.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,20145 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels Through North America, v. 1-2, by -Berhard Saxe-Weimar Eisenach - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Travels Through North America, v. 1-2 - During the Years 1825 and 1826. - -Author: Berhard Saxe-Weimar Eisenach - -Release Date: January 24, 2013 [EBook #41913] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS *** - - - - -Produced by Louise Hope, Chris Curnow and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -[This e-text comes in three forms: Unicode (UTF-8), Latin-1 and ASCII. -Use the one that works best on your text reader. - - --If "oe" displays as a single character, and apostrophes and - quotation marks are "curly" or angled, you have the UTF-8 version - (best). If any part of this paragraph displays as garbage, try - changing your text reader's "character set" or "file encoding". - If that doesn't work, proceed to: - --In the Latin-1 version, "oe" is two letters, but French words like - "etude" have accents and "ae" is a single letter. Apostrophes and - quotation marks will be straight ("typewriter" form). Again, if you - see any garbage in this paragraph and can't get it to display - properly, use: - --The ASCII-7 or rock-bottom version. All necessary text will still - be there; it just won't be as pretty. - -Footnotes are numbered continuously within each volume. Bracketed -paragraphs are in the original. - -Typographical errors and anomalies-- whether corrected or not-- are -listed at the end of the e-text.] - - - * * * * * - * * * * - * * * * * - - - TRAVELS - - through - NORTH AMERICA, - - during the - YEARS 1825 AND 1826. - - * * * - - By His Highness, - BERNHARD, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR EISENACH. - - * * * - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - * * * - - VOL. I. - - * * * - - PHILADELPHIA: - CAREY, LEA & CAREY--CHESNUT STREET. - Sold in New York by G. & C. Carvill. - - * * * - - 1828. - - - - -EASTERN DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit: - -Be it remembered, that on the seventh day of October, in the fifty-third -year of the independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1828, -Carey, Lea and Carey of the said district, have deposited in this office -the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the -words following, to wit: - -"Travels through North America, during the years 1825 and 1826. By his -highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. In two volumes." - -In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, -entituled, "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the -copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of -such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act, -entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, 'An act for the -encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and -books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times -therein mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of -designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints." - - D. CALDWELL, - Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. - - Skerrett--Ninth Street, - Philadelphia. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The following journal was by no means originally designed for -publication. I wrote it during my travels, partly to recall past -incidents at a future period, partly to give, with more ease and -certainty, information to my much-honoured parents, my relatives, and -friends, on any subject, upon which inquiry might be made. After my -return, the book was read by several, for whose perusal it had not been -altogether intended. Many judicious persons imagined that it would be of -interest to a larger number of readers, and variously and repeatedly -requested its publication, in order to give it a more extensive -circulation. As I could not easily withstand these solicitations, and -besides met with an experienced and worthy person, Counsellor Luden, -to whom, as editor, I might without hesitation entrust the whole -manuscript, I yielded; whether with propriety or not, I cannot tell. - -As to the voyage itself, I have nothing to say, either with regard to -its cause or design. The idea of visiting America, occupied me, almost -from my earliest years. Why this idea arose, or why it continued in my -mind, is not a matter of much moment. The chief reason was, I wished to -see the new world; the country; the people; their conditions and -institutions; their customs and manners. The more I became acquainted -with the old world, the more my desire to see the new increased. - -The state and relations of the European countries, however, and the -duties by which I deem myself bound, as a military man, to the country, -to which I had dedicated my services, precluded the hope of an early -accomplishment of my design. Still I made the necessary preparations as -far as my situation and circumstances allowed, so that the voyage might -not be made at a future time without some advantage. At last Europe -appeared to have attained a degree of tranquillity which would permit an -absence of a year or eighteen months, without a fear on my part that I -should fail in any of my engagements. His majesty, the King of the -Netherlands, whom I have the honour to serve, not only allowed me the -requisite time, but also granted me a passage in the Pallas, a royal -sloop of war, commanded by Captain-Lieutenant Ryk, a gallant, -highly-esteemed, and experienced seaman. - -Under which order of travellers I am to be ranked, according to poor -Yorick's classification, is submitted to the decision of the kind -reader. - - BERNHARD, - _Duke of Saxe-Weimar_. - -Ghent, May 20, 1827. - - - - -TRAVELS, &c. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - _Departure from Ghent.-- Sojourn at Hellevoetsluis.-- Arrival at - Spithead._ - - -On the 4th of April, 1825, I set out from Ghent for Antwerp. This -ancient and noble city is in every point of view interesting; to the -admirers of the fine arts, on account of the unique treasures she -possesses; to the military observer for her long defence against the -army of the Duke of Parma, and for her military and maritime importance -obtained in modern times through him who long guided the destiny of -Europe; and to the philanthropist, who derives satisfaction from the -increasing prosperity of mankind, for numerous reasons. Long the victim -of politics and the jealousy of her neighbours, which kept the mighty -Scheld, the harbour of Antwerp, blockaded, she now powerfully lifts her -head above her rivals, and her commerce, nearly as flourishing as under -the Hanseatic league, is annually becoming more extensive, thanks to the -foresight of the wise prince whom Providence has placed at the head of -our country's government. - -A government yacht received us at Antwerp, and with a fair wind and most -delightful spring weather, conveyed us, by the evening of the 6th of -April, to the road of Hellevoetsluis, where the corvette Pallas was -lying at anchor, which had orders to sail on the following day. The -first part of the voyage to Hellevoetsluis is down the Scheld; the -beautiful steeple of the cathedral of Antwerp long remains in sight; the -forts on both shores attract the attention of military men, and perhaps -remind them of the remains of the great bridge between forts St. Mary -and St. Philip, by which Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma, crossed the -stream and forced the city to surrender. - -At an hour's sail below Antwerp, the Scheld forms a large basin, and -divides into two arms the East and West Scheld, which are separated by -the island of _Zuid-Beveland_. The West Scheld is the deepest, and flows -into the North Sea: we sailed on the eastern branch to the place of our -destination. - -A century ago South Beveland was well cultivated, and contained a town -and numerous villages: it was swallowed up by the water, and still -remains overflowed. It may be reserved for the creative spirit peculiar -to our existing government and its illustrious chief, to give employment -to the plough of the industrious farmer on the spot where at present the -poor fisherman protracts a wretched existence. - -We afterwards left the East Scheld, and sailed past several well -cultivated islands, protected against the violence of the stormy waves -by artificial dams. We entered upon the stream formed by the confluence -of the Maas and Rhine, and advanced immediately to Hellevoetsluis, -whence in former times the victorious fleets of Holland frequently -sailed to the remotest parts of the world, and dictated terms to her -enemies. The ships which convey the treasures of the tropical regions to -the rich city of Rotterdam, or carry the products of our own industry, -as well as the defenders of our extensive possessions, are often -obliged, by contrary winds, to remain here for various periods. Hence -Hellevoetsluis is generally very lively. - -The corvette _Pallas_, in which our government permitted me to sail for -America, was a new vessel, fitted out as an instruction ship. -A selection of young naval officers was made for this voyage, as -midshipmen. To these were added a young naval architect named TROMP, -a worthy descendant of historically renowned ancestors, whose deep -knowledge, distinguished talents, and estimable character, I became -acquainted with and cherished in the course of the voyage. These -selected officers were entrusted to the direction of Captain _Ryk_, one -of our most approved commanders,[I-1] who had orders to visit some of -the principal English and American naval depots, in order to acquire -whatever knowledge might best promote the interests of his country. On -this account the corvette was fitted out rather as a packet ship than a -man of war. She had no long guns on deck, except two long sixes in the -bows as chase guns; her battery consisted of eighteen twenty-four pound -carronades. I was established in the captain's cabin, and a swinging cot -was suspended at night for my sleeping place. - - [Footnote I-1: For the benefit of my readers who are not - military, I subjoin the names of offices in our navy, and their - correspondence in rank with army offices:-- - - Admiral is equal to General. - Vice-admiral " " Lieutenant-general. - Rear-admiral " " Major-general. - Captain " " Colonel. - Captain-lieutenant " " Lieutenant-colonel. - Lieutenant of the first class " " Captain. - Lieutenant of the second class " " First lieutenant.] - -In consequence of contrary winds and other causes which it is needless -to mention, the corvette could not sail as quickly as ordered. In the -mean time I stayed at Hellevoetsluis, and employed my forced leisure in -examining this small town and its vicinity. - -Hellevoetsluis contains upwards of two thousand inhabitants, among whom -there is scarcely a poor one to be found. The town properly consists of -but one street, on both sides of the harbour, having walled quays, and -united by a double drawbridge, built two years ago. Where the town -terminates, the dock-yard commences, which contains most of the -fortifications. Near the dock-yard are the barracks, which can, if -necessary, contain two thousand men. The frigate Rhine lay in harbour as -guard-ship. There was one ship repairing in the dock, none building. For -the purpose of repairing there is, behind the basin of the dock-yard, -a dry, terrace-shaped, walled basin, or _dry dock_, large enough for a -ship. When the ship is brought into this dock, the gates are closed, and -the water pumped out by a steam machine of thirty horse-power. This -being done, the ship is dry, and may be examined on all sides. When the -repairs are completed, the gates are again opened, the water admitted, -and the ship floated out. A _boat-gate_ is better adapted to this -purpose: a boat-gate consists of a box which exactly enters the canal -leading to the dry dock: when brought to the place where it is to be -used, a quantity of water is admitted sufficient to sink it to the level -of the shores, and then it forms a bridge. When it is necessary to open -the gate, the water is pumped out, and the box is withdrawn from the -canal. The frigate _Kenau Hasselaar_ was in the basin getting ready for -sea, and with the crew of the guard-ship under command of Captain -Dibbetz, she was to sail for the East Indies. The frigates _Scheld_, -_Maas_, _Yssel_, and _Java_, with the brig _Havic_, and about twenty -gun-boats, were laid up in ordinary. One of the gun-boats was built -after a _Danish_ model, which allows the upper part of the rudder to be -taken down and two ports to be opened, by which the stern can be used in -battery. The magazines and smithies are not large, but are kept in very -neat order. - -The admiralty have a very large building here which is used as the -residence of the marine commander in chief. From a belvidere of this -house there is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding country. In -the former, the frigate _Amstel_, corvette _Pallas_, brig _De Gier_, and -transport-ship _Zeemeeuw_ rode at anchor, the two latter bound to the -Mediterranean. In the dock-yard we remarked a very large mast-crane, -which may be seen far at sea, and serves mariners as a landmark. There -is also a light-house upon one of the two dams which secure the harbour, -also built two years ago. - -[From the 11th to the 25th of April, contrary winds detained the -corvette at Hellevoetsluis, during which time an excursion was made to -_Goedereede_, _Stellendam_, &c. After various changes of winds, and a -storm while lying at anchor, nothing of interest occurred until four -P. M. of the 25th, when the ship weighed anchor and stood out to sea.] - -Fair wind and good weather continued until the forenoon of the 27th. -About four o'clock we saw the English coast, being the North Foreland, -not far from Margate. Here we were obliged to steer to the left to enter -the Channel, in order to reach Portsmouth and avoid the dangerous -_Goodwin Sands_. At the same time the barometer had fallen, the air was -thick and rainy, and a disagreeable south-west wind began to blow. The -passage between these sand-banks was by no means pleasant; the wind was -quite boisterous and almost stormy; we lost all hope of reaching the -Channel during this day, and were forced to be content with beating -about in our perilous situation. The motion of the ship became very -vehement towards evening, and I became sea-sick; it was not so bad while -I remained motionless in my cot. During the night the ship was in a very -dangerous situation, and Captain _Ryk_ remained all the time on deck. -The lead was regularly thrown during the night. In attempting to get -into my cot, which was very much inclined, and the ship giving a heavy -lurch at the same time, I received a heavy fall on my head, which, -however, was not productive of much injury. On the morning of the 28th -the wind was somewhat lighter, and we discovered that during the night -we had been in a situation of extreme danger, and had reason to be -thankful to the great Creator for our safety. The weather gradually -cleared up, and we enjoyed with great satisfaction the noble prospect of -the English coast. Immediately ahead lay Margate with the southern shore -of the Thames; farther to the left, Ramsgate, and still farther, Deal. -We were moreover surrounded by shipping, and in the Downs we saw the -English ship of the line, Ramilies, which cruised this year on this -station, lying at anchor. - -The wind was now westerly, and our commander having no wish to pass -another night as dangerously as the preceding, resolved to cast anchor -in the Downs. This determination led me to think of landing at Deal, -going to London for a day, and then returning to Portsmouth. In the -course of the day, however, an east wind sprung up, which changed all -our resolutions. We passed the cape of South Foreland, and entered the -Channel prosperously, where we saw the high chalk rock between Deal and -Dover, with several castles, and Dover itself, with its ancient and -strong castle, near the ruins, &c. We were also delighted with a -beautiful view of the French coast, the white rocks of which were -illumined by the sun. The wind, as we passed by Dover, was very light, -the current was against us, and during the night it rained and blew. The -anchor was consequently dropped, and we remained off Dover till one -o'clock the following day. In the mean time the weather improved, though -the wind continued to be very slight and unfavourable. I embraced this -opportunity to visit Dover, in company with Captain _Ryk_, his nephew, -and Mr. Tromp. We breakfasted at Wright's hotel, in which, eighteen -months before I had stayed with my family, and at that time took a walk -to the fortified camp, that lies westwardly from the town, on an -important height. To this place we ascended by stairs cut about twenty -years ago. A subterranean passage leads from the town to the foot of -these stairs. For a supply of water a well was dug through the rock to -the depth of about two hundred feet, and to this well three stairs were -cut of two hundred and sixty-eight steps each. These stairways are wide -enough to allow two men to walk conveniently abreast. They terminate in -a funnel-shaped excavation, whence a stone staircase leads towards four -terrace-shaped barracks, built one above the other. Somewhat higher is a -pentagonal redoubt, also employed as a barrack, in which at this time a -detachment of artillery, the only garrison of Dover was quartered. The -redoubt forms the right wing of the position. From this point an -irregular line of masonry, partly hewed out of the rock, runs to the -left wing, where there is an oblong quadrangular fort. In front of this -fort is a tolerably deep valley, through which the London road passes. -We were delighted with the view of this beautiful vale and the fresh -green of the turf. Messrs. Tromp and Ryk made a sketch of the rocks and -mountains, which would make a strong impression upon one who had not -beheld them, even upon me who am familiar with their appearance, it -produced a very agreeable feeling. From the left wing a line runs _en -cremaillere_, beside which, at an entering angle, a casemated magazine -is placed near a small fort that defends the harbour. From this line a -door opens towards the high rock called Shakspeare's Cliff, which we had -not leisure to visit. The masonry of the fortification is of brick, with -a half _revetement_. The rock is throughout chalk, containing flint. -These flints are much employed in paving roads and streets, to the great -injury of the hoofs of horses; some houses in Dover are also built of -them. We turned back again towards the corvette, highly gratified with -our excursion. We saw two steam-boats arrive at Dover, one from Calais -and the other from Boulogne. A water spout was pointed out to me at a -distance. At one o'clock the wind began to blow fair, the anchor was -weighed, and we stood onwards with fine weather, delighted with the -continuous view of the English coast. - -On the 30th of April with a fresh wind we made the eastern point of the -Isle of Wight, where we hoisted a flag, and fired a gun for a pilot, who -did not come on board immediately. We sailed cautiously onwards, came in -sight of Portsmouth, and neared St. Helen's point, Isle of Wight. The -pilot then came on board, and steered us into Spithead road, off -Portsmouth. This town, in which I was so much pleased two years before, -has a very handsome appearance. Several ships of the line were lying in -the harbour, among which was the _Victory_, on board of which Lord -Nelson was killed. When we saw the admiral's flag floating from her -mainmast head, we saluted her with seventeen guns, which she returned -with thirteen. We anchored in the road where we found two English -corvettes, an East India company's ship, and a Portuguese frigate, which -had brought the Portuguese ambassador, the Marquis Palmella, to England. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - _Stay in England.-- Portsmouth.-- Plymouth.-- Devonport.-- - Falmouth._ - - -As the corvette was to remain, for the instruction of the midshipmen, -until all the naval establishments had been accurately examined, -I resolved to go on shore and travel from Portsmouth to Plymouth and -Falmouth, and then rejoin the corvette. On the 1st of May I went in the -boat, accompanied by Captain Ryk and Lieutenant Lejeune, to Portsmouth. -The sea ran very high, and the eight oarsmen made very little way -against the swell. As we entered the harbour where the waves were -exceedingly high, we turned so quickly that two seas struck our boat in -the side, and made us more than once fear that she would be foundered. -Nevertheless we arrived safely, though thoroughly wet. - -I remained in Portsmouth three days, and as its situation and relations -were already known to me, I spent the time in reading, writing, paying -and receiving visits, and in strolling about in interesting society. For -a similar reason I allowed myself to make desultory observations. - -According to the navy list, there are at Portsmouth sixteen ships in -actual service, mounting five hundred and eighteen guns; sixty-five -dismantled, with four thousand one hundred and forty-three guns, and -eighteen building, which are to carry seven hundred and fifty-six guns; -making a total of five thousand four hundred and seventeen guns. - -Some of the lowest class of people were masquerading in honour of the -1st of May. Most of them were dressed as Jack-puddings; others were -ornamented with bladders: they marched through the streets to the sound -of music, stopped and danced before some of the houses, and collected -money. They also had a boxing match between two boys, which was -conducted as a regular combat. As soon as one boy was down, his -antagonist ceased to strike, and his second helped him up. One, however, -did strike a blow while the other was down, whereupon several of the -bystanders rushed upon the offender, held him fast, and gave him so many -punches in the ribs that he was completely discomfited; and this -terminated the fray. In the harbour about one hundred and fifty men were -shipped as recruits for the 89th regiment, stationed in the East Indies. -They came from the depot at the Isle of Wight, and appeared to be very -weak and miserable. - -The Marquis Palmella, who resided in the same hotel with me, set out on -the 3d of May with his family, a wife, eight children, and a numerous -suite, for London. I paid him a visit, and was introduced to his lady, -a very beautiful woman. The marquis, who is very generally esteemed, -suffered considerably during the last Portuguese counter-revolution, and -was kept prisoner for several days. During his stay at this place he has -constantly had two honorary sentries, and an hour before his departure, -a company of fifty marines, with three officers, and the band in full -uniform, marched in front of the hotel, and remained as a guard of -honour until he left Portsmouth. It was with real pleasure that I -remarked the excellent condition of this corps. - -The royal marines, whose barracks I visited, and saw the men defile, -have an exceedingly fine appearance, and are highly esteemed. The -officers are promoted according to seniority; but since the peace, the -corps has been much reduced, and the officers are old in their grades. -The officers also are mostly persons without influence, and enter the -royal marines because unable to purchase rank in the army. The barracks -for the soldiers did not altogether please me: they are better regulated -and kept more cleanly in the Netherlands. It is a good regulation that -the bedsteads are iron, and that every man lies alone; but it is very -bad on the other hand, that they cook in the same room. - -I visited, in company with Captain Ryk, the Ganges, a ship of the line -of eighty-four guns, built a few years since by Indian workmen, entirely -of Teak-wood. This hard and heavy timber is not only very lasting, but -has also the great excellence of not cracking in a warm climate. We were -received on board the ship with great attention, in the absence of -Captain Campbell, by Lieutenant Wright, who did the honours in a very -friendly manner. I cannot sufficiently admire the neatness observed in -this ship. They have an excellent mode of taking care of the rings, -bolts, weapons, and other iron, brass, and copper utensils, on board of -English ships of war. The forepart of the gun-deck is an extraordinary -apartment, the iron implements are varnished, and the others polished -and arranged along the whitewashed sides, so as to form figures and -inscriptions. When strangers visit the ship a sort of chandelier is -lighted, which produces a very beautiful effect. When we left the ship, -Lieutenant Wright had the politeness to take us in his barge to the -inner harbour, where the ships are laid up in ordinary. As we left the -Ganges, she saluted us with nineteen guns. - -Ships in commission are painted black and white; when they go into -ordinary this paint is scraped off, and they are then painted brownish -yellow; if not again to be employed in active service they are painted -entirely black. We went on board of the _Nelson_, of one hundred and -twenty guns, in the harbour. She is a new ship, but lay in ordinary, -having been already affected with the destructive _dry-rot_. The injured -planks had been removed, and at present she is entirely sound. The -Nelson, Ganges, and all the recently built ships of the line have round -sterns. All of them have the wood work necessary for their equipment, as -for gun-carriages, &c. on board. In order to preserve this and the deck -from the influence of the weather, a large roof is built over them. From -the Nelson we went on board the royal yacht, the _Royal George_, which I -had already seen, but which I willingly examined once more, on account -of her elegant construction and great luxury. The magnificence of the -royal apartments, and those for the suite, are very strongly contrasted -with the birth-deck for the crew, which is both dark and confined. We -remarked here a patent iron camboose, which cooked all the food by means -of steam. - -Having purchased the necessary provisions, especially Gamble's preserved -meats, which keep fresh for a year, I went on the 4th of May, at 4 P. M. -on board the steam ship, Sir Francis Drake, to go to Plymouth, distant -one hundred and fifty miles. The engine is of seventy horse-power. The -ship was not very comfortably arranged; the main cabin was so near the -boiler that the heat was intolerable. Our passengers amounted to thirty -persons, only eight of whom were cabin passengers. About five o'clock a -gun was fired as a signal for sailing, and we stood out to sea. Spithead -road with the shipping lay to the left, and our course was between the -land and the Isle of Wight. Cowes with its beautiful gardens presented -an agreeable sight, about a mile to the westward of which stands a -castle called Egypt. It began to grow dark. We saw on the right hand the -extremely bright lights of _Hurst-castle_, and on the left the -light-house of the Needles, on the western extremity of the Isle of -Wight, which I visited two years ago. The white rocks of the Needles -were visible in the dark, and from the effects of frequent storms have -an entirely peculiar appearance. As we passed this dangerous place, the -wind increased, and the motion of the little ship, with the continual -jarring of the steam-engine, became exceedingly disagreeable. As the -birth allotted to me was too short, I was obliged to place my mattrass -upon the floor. The heat and strokes of the adjacent steam-engine, the -coughing of a catarrhous Irishman, and the squalling of a child in the -next cabin, long prevented me from sleeping. It was not until near -morning that I began to slumber, but was soon waked again by the -insupportable heat. I sought refuge upon deck, where nearly all the -company, without excepting the captain, were unwell. - -The rocky English coast was in view in almost every direction; the town -of Dartmouth appears to be very finely situated. After a rather long and -unpleasant passage, we arrived in Plymouth Bay at 1 o'clock, P. M. We -passed a little to the left of the breakwater, a dam intended to protect -Plymouth road from the south-west storms, begun thirteen years ago, but -not yet completed: we were gratified with the view of Mount Edgecumbe -Park and Drake's Island, on which is a small fort that forms a very -beautiful view from the three towns, Plymouth, with the citadel; -Stonehouse and Plymouth Dock, now called Devonport. This dock, with all -the ships building and repairing there, furnishes a beautiful and -imposing prospect. - -After my arrival I paid a visit to the authorities of this place. The -admiral in chief, Sir James Saumarez, a worthy man, seventy years of -age, excited in me an extraordinary degree of interest. He has served -England for fifty-six years, and during the last war commanded for five -years in the Eastern Ocean. His actions are known to all the world, and -caused him to be distinguished with the grand cross of the order of the -Bath, which he has worn for twenty-four years. - -Among the remarkable things of this place, is the court-house, which is -a new, oblong building, having on one of its small sides a broad -staircase leading to a portico, with four Ionic columns. The hall is -large and very conveniently arranged with galleries for spectators. -Beneath the dock for the prisoners is a trap-door, by which persons are -brought from the prison on the ground floor, for trial, and carried back -again, without being brought into contact with the public. The six cells -for prisoners in the lower part of the house are all arched with stone, -and furnished with iron bedsteads. The doors are of stout oak plank, -studded with iron; a small opening allows air and light to enter, though -very sparingly. The prisoners can walk daily for exercise in a corridor, -twelve paces in length, by three in breadth: they have a miserable -existence. We left this granite and marble abode of sorrow with very -unpleasant impressions. Scarcely had we left it, when our eyes fell upon -a monument, building upon a rock, which is to be a column one hundred -and one feet high, commemorating the change of the name of the town, -from Plymouth Dock to Devonport. This work did not dispel the -disagreeable feeling caused by the prison. Not far distant from this -monument stands a _Gothic_ church, and near this a school-house, in the -_Egyptian_ style. The crowding together within so narrow a space of such -various styles of architecture, exhibits a singular, I cannot say an -agreeable sight. We also examined the market, which is furnished with -numerous covered galleries, in which provisions, fish for instance, are -displayed upon marble tables. But marble is so common here, that the -foot-walks are paved with it: houses are also built therewith. The -houses in Devonport are not handsome: some of the old ones are entirely -covered with slate, which produces a disagreeable impression. In the -court-house there is a fire-place made of slate. - -On the 7th of May we examined the dock-yard; there are eight ships here -in actual service, mounting three hundred and sixty-six guns; sixty-five -in ordinary, with three thousand five hundred and twenty guns, and -twenty-two building, which will mount upwards of seven hundred and -twenty; making in all, four thousand six hundred and six guns. - -The dock-yard, with its admirable regulation, is perfectly described by -Dupin in his excellent travels in Great Britain. The work is known to -most readers, and for an accurate description of the dock I refer them -thereto. The entrance is really beautiful; you behold the greater part -of the dock-yard, which is terrace-shaped, beneath you; on the right -hand is the church and some offices, opposite to which are two cannon -employed more for show than defence. The houses are built of the gray -marble-like lime-stone, which is so common here. A new magazine is -rendered entirely fire-proof by this stone and iron; the different -store-rooms being separated by iron doors, so that in case of fire it -can be insulated. The rope-walk is a building two stories high, with -walks two hundred yards long. All the ships, as in other English docks, -are built under roofs, which are sometimes covered with slate, though -mostly with copper. To my surprise, the water is pumped out of the dry -docks by a horse-mill instead of a steam-engine. In one of the dry docks -we saw the unfortunate ship Fortitudo[I-2] repairing. All her timbers -were decayed; her copper destroyed, and she required three new masts; -her repairs cost the house of _Roelands_ of Antwerp eight thousand -pounds. There is at this dock a huge iron kettle, in which ship timber -is boiled in sea water in order to protect it from the dry rot. About -two thousand two hundred men are daily employed in this yard, and some -earn thirty-six shillings a week. - - [Footnote I-2: A Netherland merchant ship, employed to carry - troops to the East Indies, whose wretched condition was not - discovered until she was in the main ocean, and was obliged to - make for Plymouth for repairs.] - -After a stay of about two hours at the dock-yard, I went in company with -the admiral to _Hamoaze_, where the fleets in service and dismantled lay -at anchor. We went on board the flag ship Britannia, and were received -in a very friendly manner by Captain Pipon, who showed us the ship -throughout: every thing was as admirable as in the ships at Portsmouth. -From the Britannia, which saluted us with twenty-one guns, we went on -board the St. Vincent, which in every respect resembled the Nelson at -Portsmouth. - -On the 6th of May, which was Sunday, and the town consequently very -quiet, I went first to visit the marine barracks, and thence to -Plymouth, which I had not yet seen. It is about a mile distant from -Stonehouse. The entrance is agreeable, exhibiting several new houses, -and a large quadrangular building, ornamented with columns, which -contains the theatre and _Royal Hotel_. But as soon as one advances a -little farther into the town the scene changes, the streets are all -narrow and precipitous, badly paved, and without side-walks; the houses -are badly built, and angular, and the sun cannot shine into the streets. -The harbour that is forming at Catwater appears to be visited, and the -bay presents a noble prospect. We passed by a road cut in the rock to -the citadel, to visit the vice-governor, Major General Sir _John -Cameron_; but he was sick. We walked round the ramparts of the citadel, -and enjoyed at every point an admirable view, to which the fine weather -contributed its full proportion. At noon we walked to Stoke, a village -in which the inhabitants of Plymouth have country seats. At this place -it is customary, as far as practicable, to bury the dead on Sunday; we -therefore met funeral processions in most of the streets, which did not -particularly raise our spirits. - -On Monday I went with Sir James Saumarez in the Britannia's barge to -examine the breakwater. We first visited the stone quarries at -_Catwater_, whence the stone for the breakwater is procured. The land -where this quarry is situated was purchased from various proprietors. -The rock, which is lime-stone, is blasted with gunpowder. Many of the -blocks of stone weigh five tons and upwards. They are lifted by iron -cranes, by which one workman is able to raise a ton and a half, and -placed upon small four wheeled iron cars, which run on rail-roads to the -quay where the vessels lay which are to convey them to the breakwater. -These vessels, which are built expressly for this service, can carry -eighteen of the heaviest of these blocks; the lighter stones are carried -in hired vessels. At the quarry we were received by the secretary of Mr. -Whitby, who planned the breakwater, and at present superintends the -work. A cave was discovered in the rock containing rhinoceros bones in -good preservation, and some time after, another cavern was found -containing the bones and teeth of bears. From the mount above the -quarry, there is an extensive and exceedingly beautiful prospect. From -this place we went to Bovisand-bay, where, under the direction of Mr. -Whitby, a quay and reservoir of fresh water is building for the navy. -The water is collected from two springs into a reservoir twenty feet -deep, situated between the hills. Thence it is to be conducted through -iron pipes for nearly an English mile to the quay. These seventeen cocks -will each deliver two and a half tuns of water a minute. The watering -boats will land at the quay, and in a very short time return with their -lading to the ships. In the valley near the reservoir is Mr. Whitby's -handsome dwelling, from which he can survey the whole work, and -consequently may from his own chamber control the workmen. - -The breakwater suffered exceedingly by the terrible storm of the 22d and -23d of November, 1824. It is now to be rendered more permanent in the -following manner:--The stones most exposed to the waves are to be hewed -and clamped together with iron. I fear, however, that this work will -also be destroyed, unless a couple of perpendicular dams be built -touching the principal dam, to break the force of the waves before they -reach the latter. The old works are in so ruinous a condition that we -were nearly wrecked upon them. On this account we stood farther off, and -went on board of the Thetis frigate to pay a visit to Sir John -Phillimore. Sir John, in honour of our presence, displayed all his -flags. The marines, with their officers, stood near the mizen-mast, and -with the crew marched round the deck; some of the latter were armed with -pikes, some with sabres, and others with battle-axes. I was delighted -with the perfect order and neatness which universally appeared. Both -cabins were very elegantly arranged and ornamented with mahogany. As we -took leave, the yards were manned, and a salute given. It was now high -water, and we passed between _Drake's Island_ and _Mount Edgecumbe_ -through a passage called the _Bridge_, which is dangerous on account of -rocks. We touched twice upon them without injury, as fortunately the -wind was slight: we landed at the beautiful stone stairs of _Mount -Wise_. - -On the day following, I visited the Marine Hospital, in company with Sir -John Phillimore. This is an admirably managed and richly endowed -institution.[I-3] The building was begun during the seven years war. It -can accommodate two thousand sick or wounded: we found but about seventy -persons in the hospital, and among these some officers and midshipmen. -It appeared to me that the plan of having eight separate buildings, each -three stories high, was a very good one, as the spreading of contagious -diseases, or of a conflagration, can be so much more easily prevented. -Each ward contains sixteen bedsteads, all of iron; the bedsteads for the -officers are of wood, and furnished with curtains. There are also beds -in the wards for the nurses, which, in all the English marine hospitals, -are females, whose attendance is preferred for its greater gentleness to -that of male assistants. The sick are brought from the ships to the -hospital by water, and go, or are carried up a wide stone stair to the -receiving office. They are then stripped and bathed in the hospital to -which they are sent, and their clothes are marked, and kept in a -particular magazine. An iron crane is employed to land those who are -badly wounded. In all the wards, as well as in the different -store-rooms, and the apothecary room, the greatest order and cleanliness -is observable. - - [Footnote I-3: For minute description of this hospital, see - Dupin.] - -The church does not appear to me to be arranged in correspondence with -the rest of the establishment. It is small, and has a store-room on the -first floor, so that the patients find it occasionally very troublesome -to attend upon worship. A covered colonnade surrounds the quadrangular -court-yard which encloses the building, under which the patients, in bad -or hot weather, can exercise. The middle of the court-yard is a -well-kept grass-plot. - -For maniac patients there is a proper house, built remote from the -others. The wash-house stands also aloof. In bad weather, the wash is -dried by steam. The wash is hung upon frames, which fold together, and -may be run in and out for the convenience of taking off the dried pieces -and adding the wet. Eight of such frames may be folded together and -occupy a very small space. There is also a very appropriately managed -bathing-house for the use of the patients, in which they may not only -have all sorts of baths, but with the greatest convenience. The -superintendents, physicians, and officers, have their dwellings in front -of the hospital, in a spacious place planted with trees. The -commissioner at the head of the institution, is Captain _Creyke_, -a pensioner, eighty years old, who first served at sea in 1759, and -accompanied Commodore _Wallis_ in his first voyage round the world. -Before we left the hospital we took a glance at his beautifully situated -and tastefully arranged house. We then visited the Plymouth Library, -established by subscription about twenty years ago, which does not yet -appear to be very rich. The establishment consists of three apartments, -the book-room, the reading-room, and the director's meeting-room. The -library serves properly for a reading club, like our literary society at -Ghent. On the 10th, I dined in company with Admiral Saumarez and Sir -John Phillimore, with the officer's mess of the twenty-fourth regiment -of infantry, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel Fleming. - -On the ensuing day, the admiral accompanied us to Mount Edgecumbe Park; -this is a truly noble situation, yet, in time of war, as this position -is indispensable to the defence of the dock-yard, it is necessary to -convert it into a fortification. The ground is very advantageously -employed in the disposition and embellishment of the park: it is not -encumbered with buildings; the green and bath-house are the principal, -and in the construction of these the marble of the vicinity has been -very happily used. The trees are chiefly beech, some of them apparently -very old, sickly, and injured by the sea-air. There are also three great -cedars of Lebanon, which do not thrive well in an English park. The -Castle of Mount Edgecumbe is ancient, and externally resembles a state -prison; we did not examine it internally. We saw the monument of Lady -Mount Edgecumbe, who died in 1806, to whom the park is indebted for most -of its improvements. It is told of her that she was twice buried; the -first time she remained three days in a vault, lying in her coffin, and -was aroused by a thief cutting off her finger to steal a ring: she left -the grave, took refuge in a neighbouring house, made herself known, and -was reconveyed to her castle, where she subsequently lived several years -and gave birth to children. _Relata refero._ On the sea-shore, near the -_bridge_ that we passed two days since, Lord Mount Edgecumbe has erected -a battery of twenty-one iron six pounders, which he fires upon all -festival occasions. We embarked at this battery to visit the rock lying -in front of Stonehouse, called Devil's Point, which is to be partly -levelled to make room for a new victualling office. The work is scarcely -begun. A cellar was dug out of the rock and a wall built in the sea to -support the foundation. This was effected by means of a diving-bell. The -bell containing the workmen, remained while we were present, nearly four -hours under water. Government intends to construct a new water-reservoir -at this place, which will probably render that of Bovisand unnecessary. -Drinking water is brought to Plymouth in iron pipes from Dartmouth, -which is eighteen miles distant, so that in time of war the supply might -readily be cut off. - -Next day I went by land to visit the Castle of _Saltroun_, situated six -English miles from Plymouth at the end of Catwater, and belonging to -Lord Morlay, who resides in London. The road passes through a delightful -valley; on the right is Catwater, to the left the ruins of castles on -the heights: there are also here numerous terrace-shaped strawberry -beds, the fruit of which is exceedingly good. Close to the entrance of -the park we crossed the Catwater upon an old, very narrow, stone bridge -of five arches. Through the park, a beautiful road leads from the valley -to the loftily situated castle. It rained excessively, and as we could -see nothing from the park, we restricted ourselves to the castle, which -was built probably about sixty years ago, and has a very large apartment -in the basement. A very spacious vestibule leads to the library, in -which are a number of splendid family portraits and pictures of some -once celebrated actresses. The best picture is a portrait of Sir Joshua -Reynolds, painted by himself. Four plaster columns resembling -_verd-antique_ are excellent imitations. From the library a small -apartment opens into the picture gallery. In both rooms are several -paintings by Carlo Dolce, Andrea Del Sarto, Teniers, Wouvermans, Ostade, -Kuyp, Vandermeulen, &c. I cannot assert that all these are original -paintings. In the parlour, ball-room, and dining-hall, there are also -numerous pictures. Some of these are attributed to Angelica Kauffman, -others to Reubens, Van Dyke, Sassoferrato, Guido Rheni, Titian, -Ruysdael, Parmegiano, &c. However, I have seen the originals of many of -them at Antwerp and Ghent, and of one of the Parmegianos in Windsor -Castle. Among the statues and busts, I especially remarked a copy of the -Florentine Venus, by Canova, and a copy of Hebe by the same master. The -staircase of the castle is fine, and adorned with pictures by Angelica -Kauffman. The mantel-pieces, all of Italian marble, ornamented with -_bas-reliefs_, are also very remarkable. The bad weather accompanied us -throughout our return to Plymouth. On this occasion I remarked that the -pavement was taken up in several streets, and Macadamized, which is much -better for the horses and houses. - -[Several succeeding days were spent in excursions to different places in -the vicinity, in company with the Admiral and Sir John Phillimore; and -one day on a water party accompanied by ladies.] - -On the 19th of May, in a small boat belonging to the Fortitudo, I made, -with great pleasure, an excursion to Trematon Castle, which I had -formerly understood was once the residence of the ancient Princes of -Cornwall. Sir John Phillimore had been so polite as to inform the -proprietor, Mr. Tucker, chief director of the neighbouring mines, whose -son is an officer on board the Thetis, of our coming. On landing, we -found a carriage sent by Mr. Tucker to meet and convey us to the castle. -I observed here a water-mill, behind which was a large walled basin that -is filled by the flood tide, and closed by a gate. During the ebb tide -the gate is opened and the mill set to work. It reminded me of the -_bassins de chasse_, in some of our harbours. - -Trematon Castle is situated upon a height. Besides the walls furnished -with loop-holes which form a quadrangle, the castle consists of but two -towers, one quadrangular, which forms the entrance, and the other a -round one, somewhat higher. As Mr. Tucker holds this castle of the king, -the royal arms are over the portal. In the court-yard of the castle, Mr. -Tucker has built a tasteful house, and, by removing part of the adjacent -wall, has obtained a beautiful prospect from his dwelling, comprising a -view of most of the Hamoaze with the shipping, Anthony's Park, -Devonport, and part of Plymouth Sound. Mr. Tucker holds several -important posts in the navy, and during Fox's ministry he was secretary -to the admiralty. At the overthrow of that administration, he retired to -his native place with a pension of two thousand pounds per annum, and -the office of secretary to the duchy of Cornwall; here he is highly -esteemed, enjoys great influence, and has his property principally -vested in the mines. After receiving us in a very friendly manner, and -introducing his family, he took a seat in the carriage. - -We went eight miles further to a silver mine, the only one in England. -It belongs to a company of five stockholders, of which Mr. Tucker is the -principal. The country is very hilly, the road sometimes narrow and -steep, so that it was frequently necessary to lock the wheels. A part of -the way was over the good road from Saltash to Callington; we also -passed near to Pentilhe castle. The land is generally good, with the -exception of a heath, of which England contains a number under the name -of "commons." The silver mine is situated in a deep valley of Fulliford -common. The mine is named St. Vincent, in honour of the deceased -admiral, who was a great patron of Mr. Tucker. The mine has been but -five years in progress, and produces so little that it sinks two hundred -pounds per month for the stockholders. The vein of silver, whose -presence is judged of certainly by iron-stone, is cut at right angles by -a vein of copper. This copper they are breaking through in hopes of -greater success. The mine has five shafts; the deepest is rather more -than three hundred feet deep, and serves as a working-shaft: two others -are used for pumping out the water. One pump is worked by a steam-engine -of seventy horse-power, the other is worked by a compound lever, which -is about a quarter of a mile long, moved by a water-wheel of forty feet -in diameter. The wheel is overshot, and the water for working it is -obtained from a small brook, aided by the water pumped up by the steam -machine, and conducted to it by a small canal. The lever is composed of -long wooden beams, bound together with iron straps, and hangs by tripods -placed at determinate distances. - -The ore raised from the mine, is pounded, washed, and roasted in the -usual manner. In order to separate the silver from the ore, the -following mixture is added to an ounce of the powder; red lead, two -ounces; red tartar, five pennyweights; nitre, nine pennyweights; borax, -four pennyweights; lime, one-quarter of an ounce; common salt, two -ounces; pounded fluor spar, one-quarter of an ounce. The whole is thrown -into a red hot iron crucible, which is placed on a glowing coke fire for -five minutes. The crucible is then taken off and the melted mass poured -into a ladle, allowed to cool and the dross removed. Some copper still -remains in the mass, so that the silver is again smelted with some lead, -and poured into a small vessel made of bone ashes: the lead is oxydated -and the silver remains pure. An ounce of ore produces one-fourth of an -ounce of silver. - -The mine is extremely damp, and as I had not felt entirely well for some -days, I did not descend, neither did any of the company. We returned to -Trematon, and in order to examine the noble spot to which we were going -more thoroughly, I mounted the box, and enjoyed a great treat. To the -left I looked down a deep valley upon the Tamer; farther off, upon the -Hamoaze, and to the right, far over Cornwall. Falmouth is said also to -be in sight. In his tastefully arranged house, Mr. Tucker has a very -interesting collection of minerals and metals of the vicinity. He -possesses a valuable library, and his wife has a remarkable collection -of shells. In the quadrangular tower of the castle, he has fitted up a -billiard room, and arranged on the walls numerous curiosities: ancient -weapons, and implements from the South Sea Islands, the tatoed and dried -head of a New Zealand chief, with his dress; pieces of worm-eaten -ship-timber from the Indian Ocean, with one of the worms in spirits; -Indian weapons; an American tomahawk; a human skull, found thirty feet -under ground in Cornwall; a marble bullet, with which an English ship -was struck in the Dardanelles, in 1807; articles from the field of -Waterloo; and a weeping willow leaf from over _Napoleon's_ tomb! Above -the clock in this tower, is placed the bell of the Spanish ship -_Salvador del Mundo_, taken and burnt by Lord St. Vincent. The round -tower, of which only the outward wall is standing, formerly served for a -prison. The walls of this tower, as well as all the rest of the castle, -are overgrown with ivy. A wooden staircase within, leads to a circular -gallery, which affords a beautiful prospect. A narrow passage cut -through the walls, leads to the garden, which contains numerous hot -houses and a very fine orangery. From this spot Mr. Tucker accompanied -us, by a very shady foot-path, back to our boat. I remarked near the -Castle of Trematon, as about other English castles, and public walks, -a vast flock of rooks, which roost there, making a great filth and -noise. The rook is much esteemed, and I hear that the people foster -them, and have their eggs hatched under pigeons, as they are thought to -destroy vast numbers of injurious insects. - -Amid all this friendly, agreeable, and learned society, these -entertainments and excursions, my impatience became great, and augmented -from day to day, from hour to hour. My time was precious, yet the -greater part of it was lost here. I waited with increasing anxiety for -the arrival of the Pallas, which still did not appear. More than once I -resolved to leave behind all I had on board of the corvette, and go to -the United States in a common packet. In the meanwhile various -considerations deferred my departure from day to day, until finally on -the 30th of May the Pallas arrived. - -While waiting for the ship, I derived much pleasure from a visit made -with Sir John Phillimore to the country seat of Colonel Ginnis, formerly -of the army. He lives in a beautiful park, a charming situation, five -miles from Plymouth, not far from the left bank of the _Tamer_, with -five lovely and handsome daughters. His house is very tastefully -arranged, and ornamented with paintings by himself. He has a peculiar -talent for landscape painting, both in oil and water colours. He has -thus preserved representations of the most beautiful situations visited -in the course of his numerous journeys. He passed nine years in North -America, and showed us views of wonders of nature, which I hope soon to -admire myself. His view of the cataract of Niagara, and Falls of -Montmorenci, gave me great pleasure. - -Sir John Phillimore also accompanied me to see Mr. _Harris_, a surgeon, -who has invented a new lightning conductor for ships. He has, for the -sake of experiment, had the model of a frigate built, which he floats in -a tub of water. There is a conductor to each mast, from which copper -rods, secured close to each other, run down the mast to the keel, -through which they pass into the water. Mr. Harris asserts, that the -lightning passes down these rods without affecting any thing in the -vicinity. To prove this, he wound around the mast a paper filled with -fine gunpowder, through which the lightning was sent without exploding -it. To prove farther, that the electricity can produce combustion after -passing through water, he connected the conductor below the keel by a -copper wire, with the touch-hole of a small cannon, which was floated in -the tub. When the electricity strikes the conductor on the mast, the -cannon is instantaneously fired. The cloud is represented by a frame -stuffed with cotton, which hangs by a silk thread, and is connected with -an electrical machine. Mr. Harris has a fine collection of philosophical -apparatus; the lightning rod of his house communicates by conductors -with a chime of bells, which are set to ringing whenever an electric -cloud passes over the house; this happened during our visit. Mr. Harris -has published a small pamphlet relative to his ship-conductor, of which -he presented me with a copy. We were very much gratified with his -experiments, and were grateful to him for his politeness. - -The delay of the Pallas also afforded me an opportunity of seeing an -East India ship launched. She was called the _City of Rochester_; was -built in London, and had sailed on her first voyage last autumn, for -Bengal, but off the heights of Plymouth was struck by a tremendous -hurricane with so much power as to wreck her to a degree that required -rebuilding. I had an opportunity of examining her while on the stocks, -and was pleased with her construction. She is intended to carry -passengers. On the quarter-deck she has a parlour and two state-rooms, -like the captain's quarters in a ship of the line, and below, the rooms -are distributed, as in the wardroom of a ship of the line, with this -difference, that in a transport ship the chambers are larger and neater -than in a ship of war. In each state-room there is a toilette, with a -_water-closet_, which is exceedingly good and comfortable. As I had -never seen a ship launched before, I was much interested. She rested -upon two ways, and was retained by two wedges; at a given signal these -were knocked away, and then by her own weight she was slowly and -majestically launched into the water, amid the acclamations of a great -crowd of people. - -The celebrated General _Mina_, a victim of the troubles which existed in -unfortunate Spain, met with a hearty welcome in England. But the humid -climate of this island did not agree with him, and he was afflicted with -rheumatism. Plymouth has the reputation of enjoying a very fine climate, -and together with the great medical skill of Dr. _Hammick_, who has -charge of the Marine hospital, is very much praised. For both these -reasons, General _Mina_ had selected Plymouth as his residence. -I cultivated his acquaintance, and was witness of a very interesting -ceremony in honour of him. The Spanish committee in London had voted him -a sword, and a member of this society, Mr. _Bowring_, the same person -who in 1824 was arrested in France, on account of a pretended -treasonable correspondence, and soon after liberated again, was -commissioned to present this sword to the general in a solemn manner. It -was on the 2d of June, when a numerous and selected company met at the -Royal Hotel of Plymouth, to attend this ceremony. As the general was -introduced to the company, Mr. Bowring informed the public of the object -of the meeting, and praised the merits of the brave general. He then -addressed the general in Spanish, informed him of the decision of the -committee, and finally displayed the diploma which accompanied the -sword: this was drawn up in English and Spanish with great calligraphic -splendour. The diploma and sabre were then presented to the general. The -sword has a gold hilt, with the general's arms on it, and a richly gilt -sheath, the sides of which were beautifully embossed with emblems of the -general's services. _Mina_ returned an answer in Spanish, and gave it to -Mr. Bowring. One of the company quickly translated it into English, for -the benefit of the public, whose long-continued applauses expressed -their admiration of the brave general. Mr. Bowring invited me to a -friendly entertainment that was to be given to _Mina_; unfortunately I -was obliged to decline it, as I had already made another engagement. - -[The 5th of June was fixed upon for the sailing of the Pallas for -Falmouth, but bad weather and high head winds detained her until the -7th. On the 9th, at 6 A. M. she arrived at _Falmouth_.] - -This tolerably long town lay at the foot of a hill, on our left, and -contains seven thousand inhabitants. It has by no means a brilliant -appearance, as it is, like Devonport, built of grey limestone, and the -roofs are slated. It is not visible from the sea, as a hill intervenes, -upon which the citadel stands. On the right side of the bay there is an -old castle, called St. Mawes, with about five houses, tenanted by poor -fishermen; this castle is one of the often-mentioned _rotten boroughs_: -it formerly was a town, and still sends two members to parliament. - -The hills are mostly cultivated; some are employed as pastures. Trees -are very rare, and few ships lay in the harbour. We anchored not far -from the frigate Astrea, a guard-ship, and saluted her with eleven guns, -which she returned. When we fired a salute on our arrival at Spithead, -the oil was spilled from the _sympisometer_, and Captain Ryk was obliged -to obtain a new one from London. To avoid a similar catastrophe, the -sympisometer and chronometer were both kept in hands during this salute. -The frigate Astrea, commanded by Captain King, serves as a depot for all -the packets, which sail hence to all parts of the world lying south and -west of England, and are collectively under command of Captain King. The -packets were formerly private property; the conveyance of the mail to -foreign parts, was consequently not only very irregular, but a wide door -was opened for smuggling.--On this account, the government, after having -contracted with the former proprietors of the packets, assumed the sole -direction. When a packet is no longer retained in service, a corvette or -brig, commanded by a lieutenant of the navy, is substituted. At this -time thirty-four packets were in service, of which fifteen were vessels -of war, commanded by navy officers, the others were the old packets in -charge of their former captains. - -Soon after our arrival we were visited by the consul of the Netherlands, -Mr. Lake, who brought me several letters. We afterwards received a visit -from Captain King, a very entertaining old gentleman. At eleven o'clock, -Captain Ryk and I went on shore, where we found a crowd assembled to -witness our landing. We took lodgings in the Royal Hotel, a large, -tastefully-arranged building, though in a very filthy street. We were -much annoyed by the fish-market, which was immediately opposite to us; -in this we saw very large and fine fish, as well as enormous shrimps, -which are here very cheap. We repaired to the Custom House, where I made -the necessary arrangements relative to the landing of my baggage, after -which we visited Mr. Lake and Captain King. The latter lived without the -limits of the city, near the bay, in a house, which, though old and -small, is very handsomely situated in a garden, and commands a very fine -prospect of the bay. The house is also historically remarkable: it was -once inhabited by Oliver Cromwell. - -The citadel, named Pendennis Castle, stands, as has been already -remarked, on an eminence near the entrance of the bay, which it defends. -It occupies the entire height, and is not overlooked by any other -fortress. The soil consists of slate, and many of the works are cut out -of the rock. It has six bastions, and on the water side, two batteries, -each of about twenty pieces. A furnace for heating shot stands near the -upper battery, and the lower, which lies close to the shore, is attached -by its left wing to an old tower erected during the reign of Henry VIII. -The fortress was built in Cromwell's time. At the southern point stands -an old tower, built of granite and surrounded by a ditch, which was -erected in the reign of Henry VIII. This tower, the original fortress, -serves at present as the dwelling of the commander. It may be compared -with the French _tours modeles_. From the pinnacle, a tolerably -extensive prospect of the surrounding country may be obtained. The day -on which I visited the fortress with several officers from the Pallas, -was very favourable, and yet a fog on the hills, descended into the vale -between the fortress and the city of Falmouth, so that some time elapsed -before we could see the rocky shore of the sea. These fogs are said to -appear very frequently, even on the finest summer days. The fortress, -which is capable of containing a garrison of two thousand men, was -merely occupied by a detachment of veterans. There is an arsenal in it, -where we saw nearly four thousand stands of arms for infantry and -marines, besides a number of sabres, &c. all very handsomely arranged. -I observed in this, as in other English fortresses, that even during -peace, nearly all the cannon are suffered to remain mounted on the -walls, and the fortresses are enclosed with palisades. Truly! many -persons find the business of keeping the carriages in good order very -profitable, and the palisades also serve instead of hedges! - -The Dalcoath mines are about fourteen miles from Falmouth. The -stockholders of these mines, held a meeting on the 13th of June, to -settle their accounts. I rode thither with Mr. Lake, Captain Ryk, and -some officers of the Pallas. But having already visited many mines, and -learnt from experience that nothing is generally seen but small and low -passages, that much inconvenience is experienced from dampness and -filth, and my object being to visit America, I thought it by no means -necessary to enter these subterraneous regions. Coals are not found in -the province of Cornwall. The ore is therefore sold in heaps, at about -seven pounds and a half sterling per ton, and conveyed by water to -Wales, where, as is well known, stone-coal is found in abundance; it is -there smelted. The Dalcoath mines occupy a large extent of ground, and -have seven shafts, one of which is three hundred and forty fathoms deep. -The pumps are worked by means of steam-engines, the cylinder of one of -which is seventy-six inches in diameter. We were told of an engine in -the neighbourhood, whose cylinder was one hundred inches in diameter. -Nearly eight hundred people work daily in the Dalcoath mines, whose -wages are proportioned to the product of their labour. The ridge -consists of granite and schist. The metals are copper and tin. The veins -of these metals lie close together, frequently cross each other, and are -so rich, that in general it yields a third of its weight in pure metal. -The stone is broken and washed, and the copper separated from the tin, -after which the ore is collected into heaps for sale. The breaking of -the stone into small pieces is performed by women, some of whom were -very handsome. I remarked also, that the stone was drawn up the shaft in -iron, and not in wooden buckets, as is customary in other countries. The -company to which these mines belong is said to realize great sums; -however a deficit occasionally occurs. This was the case at the present -settlement of accounts, and for this reason the gentlemen, about twenty -in number, with a permanent director, Mr. Rennel at their head, were not -in the best humour. At the dinner, which naturally closed the -transaction, many local concerns, which did not particularly interest -us, were discussed. Many toasts, which all referred to localities, were -drank. At last, it occurred to the gentlemen to drink the health of the -king of the Netherlands, which I returned by drinking the health of the -royal family of England. The dinner consisted, according to the English -fashion, of very solid food--roast-beef, plumb-pudding, &c. - -Our course led us through Penryn, a small place, about two miles from -Falmouth, containing about three thousand inhabitants, and but poorly -built. It has a harbour, and lies at one extremity of Falmouth Bay. Coal -ships from Wales, and vessels with grain from Ireland, principally visit -this port. Cornwall is too hilly to allow the necessary grain to be -raised, and the mines occupy so much space, and withdraw so many poor -people from farming, that by far the largest portion of grain must be -brought from other quarters. The road, which, though hilly, was in a -good state, led through many pastures which were enclosed with hedges. - -The few trees which are seen, have not attained a great height. In the -new plantations I observed some larches. The houses are built of stone, -many of granite, here very common and cheap, and roofed with slate. Many -new houses are erected on speculation, because the population rapidly -increases. We also passed through Redruth, a hilly and angular town, of -about three thousand inhabitants, who are principally miners. The town -is surrounded by mines, whose general aspect is by no means pleasing. On -an eminence not far from Redruth, we saw some ruins which are said to be -the remains of a Druid temple. In the mines I observed a superstitious -practice, which I find to prevail also in ships and farm houses; -a horse-shoe is nailed over the door to keep off witches. When at -Dalcoath, we found ourselves only a mile and a half distant from Bristol -Channel, and saw St. Agnes' Beacon, a high mountain in the -neighbourhood. We at last arrived at Tehidy Park, belonging to Lord -Dunstanville; this is principally a new settlement, which appears to -great advantage in a region like this, which is not rich. We stopped at -the dwelling house to view it. It is a tolerably large, square building -with four porches, and contains several paintings by Van Dyk, Lely, -Kneller, Hudson, and Sir Joshua Reynolds; however, I doubt whether the -former be genuine. I was particularly pleased with a very good portrait -of the celebrated Fox. We saw also several statues, copies of the best -antiques and cameos of _verd_ and _jaune antique_. - -I had frequently seen sketches of St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall, and -had long wished to see the mount itself. I accordingly took advantage of -my present leisure to visit it. The mount lies in Mountbay, opposite -Marazion, twenty-three miles distant from Falmouth. I left this place -June 14th, at noon, the weather being very warm. The road leads through -Penryn, and then inclines to the left towards the ridges, constantly up -and down hill, through heaths, where few traces of culture were -observed; the houses stand detached, and have a miserable appearance. On -the heights, however, we had occasionally a prospect towards the western -ridges of Cornwall. Trees are few in number; we observed mines here and -there. Thirteen miles from Falmouth lies Helstone, a little mining town -of two thousand five hundred inhabitants, containing some neat houses, -but miserable pavements. The court-house stands in the middle of the -town, under which is the market. On the other side of Helstone we came -to a beautiful valley, where we saw trees again, and by means of a stone -bridge we passed over Looe, a small stream, which at a short distance -empties into the sea. As far as Marazion the region is agreeable; hilly -indeed, but better cultivated. We approached the sea on the left; on the -right we had the ridges, among which we discovered some neat farms. As -we approached Marazion, which lies on a descent towards the sea, we -enjoyed the really fine view of Mountbay and of St. Michael's Mount. -In Marazion we stopped at the Star Inn, and immediately took a boat to -reach the mountain, which is a short distance from the shore. The rock, -which at low water joins the shore, consists of granite, is a mile in -circumference at its base, and is two hundred and fifty feet high. At -its foot there is a small fishing village of about thirty houses, with a -harbour formed by two new piers. By means of very inconvenient steps -which are cut out of the rock, we reached an old castle, standing at the -highest point, and belonging to the family St. Aubyn. This is the same -family, whose chief, Sir John St. Aubyn, owns almost all the houses in -Devonport, and a large portion of the ground of the dock-yard. In former -times, St. Michael's Mount was a cloister. Adapted by its isolated -situation for a fortress, art has contributed but little to its -strength, and added merely a pair of bastions, and platforms, on which a -few small cannon belonging to the owner of the mount, are at present -standing. It sustained several sieges in former times. We were conducted -to a Gothic chapel with ancient, painted window-glasses, after which we -examined the castle. In this, however, we found nothing remarkable, -except the old refectory of the cloister, called the _chevy-chace-room_, -with strange bas-reliefs, representing ancient hunting scenes. In this -hall are very old pieces of furniture; one chair is said to be three -hundred, another five hundred years old. - -The windows of the castle command a very fine prospect towards Mountbay -and its shores, in which Marazion and Penzance, which are three miles -distant from each other, appear to very great advantage. Not far from -the latter place, the Thetis lay at anchor. I regretted extremely that -my time would not allow me to visit my gallant friend, Sir John -Phillimore. A steeple rises above the church of the castle, which I, -however, did not ascend, being fatigued, and the steps in a neglected -state. We rode back to Marazion, which was formerly called Marketzew, -and has eleven hundred inhabitants, and passing by Helstone, we arrived -about one o'clock at night, much fatigued, at Falmouth. Penryn, to which -I made several excursions, contains a row of newly-built, elegant -houses, with handsome gardens and a catholic church. The beautiful -terrace on which the new houses stand with their gardens, is called the -Green Bank, and is a very agreeable promenade. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - _Voyage from Falmouth to Boston._ - - -[The Pallas sailed from Falmouth Bay on the 18th of June, and arrived on -the 26th of July. During the voyage a midshipman was lost overboard, and -the American ship Schuylkill, in distress for water and provisions, was -spoken and relieved. The other incidents of the voyage are not -sufficiently interesting to need a particular description. - -The following is the duke's account of his landing at Boston:-- - -It was ten o'clock, on the morning of the 26th of July, when I first -placed my foot in America, upon a broad piece of granite! It is -impossible to describe what I felt at that instant. Heretofore, but two -moments of my life had left a delightful remembrance; the first was, -when at seventeen years of age, I received the Cross of the Legion of -Honour, after the battle of Wagram--the second, when my son William was -born. My landing in America, that country which, from my early youth, -had been the object of my warmest wishes, will, throughout life, remain -a subject of pleasing recollection!] - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - _Boston._ - - -On our arrival in Boston we took lodgings at the Exchange Coffee-house, -where I received a visit from Mr. Andrew Ritchie, whose acquaintance I -made in England two years ago. I was much pleased to see this worthy man -again, who eighteen months since married the daughter of Mr. Otis, -formerly a senator of the United States and leader of the federal party; -both these gentlemen are highly esteemed here. I dined at the inn at two -o'clock, according to the custom of the place; my seat was at the head -of the table, by the side of the host, Mr. Hamilton. He had served in -the last war as a volunteer colonel, and still retained his title. He -exhibited much politeness, and indeed I cannot sufficiently praise the -politeness of the guests, with many of whom I became acquainted. The -dishes were very good, and even had this not been the case I should -still have enjoyed them, having so long been without fresh provisions; -this was the case with the fruit, which though small and bad, was still -agreeable. On account of the excessive heat, which had been greater than -at any time during the last twenty years, fruit in general had matured -too early. Wine was served up in coolers with ice, and into every glass -of beer, a piece of ice was thrown. - -Adjoining the large dining room is a parlour and two sitting rooms, -where strangers who have nothing to do pass the day. At a sideboard, -wine, lemonade, soda water, &c. with ice, may be obtained. Eight -newspapers were lying on a large table, all of which had the form of -English papers, and were chiefly filled with mercantile and other -advertisements. The house itself is arranged much like an English inn. -The servants of both colours were civil and attentive. At four o'clock, -Mr. Ritchie with his father-in-law, and the son of the latter, lately -returned from a tour in Europe, came to show us the city. - -There are many elegant stores in Cornhill, one of the principal streets. -We saw a new building, intended as a branch of the United States Bank, -the front of which is plain, with two Doric columns, each consisting of -a single piece of granite, eighteen feet high, and almost five feet in -diameter. The first popular assemblies at the commencement of the -American revolution, were held in the old court-house. A large hall, in -which the aldermen meet, contains a full length portrait of WASHINGTON, -by Stuart, and also a bust of ADAMS, father of the present president. -The bust is encircled by a wreath of stars. The names of all the -citizens who distinguished themselves by great services during the -revolution, are engraved on four columns. The beef and vegetable markets -are under the court-house; but as this place was justly considered -unsuitable for such a purpose, a new market was built not far from the -water. The corporation began to fill up a ditch, and erect upon it a -long building, the foundation of which is granite, and the three stories -of brick, which was sold to the merchants as a warehouse. This sale was -made on such favourable terms, that from the profits a new market was -built, parallel with this warehouse, entirely of granite. It is five -hundred and twenty-five feet long, fifty feet wide, and one story high. -On the other side of this market, and parallel with it, a new row of -warehouses, similar to the former are building. Mr. Ritchie led us -through several wide and elegant streets to his house, one of the -largest in Boston, and situated on Beacon-hill, a public promenade. Many -frame houses are still to be observed; no new houses can be built of -wood. Most of them are of brick; granite, which is found in abundance -about twenty miles from Boston, is used frequently for foundations, -particularly for those of stores. The _mall_, as it is called, consists -of a large meadow, sparingly planted with trees, and extending down the -hill to the water. On the highest part of the hill stands the -state-house or capitol, with a large dome, covered with copper. The -building is of brick, decorated with a facade of ten columns. These are -of wood, and impart to the whole an air of weakness. Mr. Ritchie's house -is furnished with much splendour and taste, and decorated by some -paintings which he obtained during his travels. Among these I remarked a -very successful copy of Madonna _della sedia_ of Raphael, another -Madonna of Sassoferrato, and a scene from the deluge of Poussin. We -spent the evening with Mr. Ritchie, and became acquainted with his lady, -and also with the widow of General Humphreys, adjutant of General -Washington, and formerly ambassador of the United States to Lisbon and -Madrid. Mrs. Humphreys is descended from an English family, was born in -Lisbon, and must have been very handsome in her youth. Mr. Otis and his -son were also present. When we departed at nine o'clock, it was still -very warm, and the full moon looked like a glowing coal in the heated -atmosphere. The Pallas arrived at Boston towards evening, and cast -anchor near Long-wharf. In passing she saluted Fort Independence with -seventeen guns, and was answered by eighteen. - -I had imagined that no one would take the least notice of me in America, -but I soon found myself agreeably disappointed. The morning after my -arrival I received an invitation to dine the next day with Mr. Otis, and -was visited at the same time by several gentlemen. Captain Henderson and -Mr. Dixon, among others, called upon me; the latter introduced me to his -wife and his father-in-law, Mr. Homer. This gentleman inhabits a large -and handsome house on Beacon-hill, and has two amiable daughters. I was -much pleased with the arrangement of this house, and indeed the houses -and chambers in general are larger and better adapted for convenience -and ease than the English. - -In company with Mr. Ritchie I paid a visit to Mrs. Humphreys, whose -house is really splendidly furnished. In the evening I visited Mr. De -Wallenstein, attached to the Russian embassy at Washington, who resides -here during the summer, on account of his health. He is an agreeable and -reflecting man. Afterwards I visited Mr. Edward Everett, professor of -the Greek language in Harvard University. Mr. Everett had previously -written me a German letter, and offered me his services in an extremely -friendly manner. He has passed five years in Europe, during two of which -he studied at Goettingen, and also visited Weimar. He remembered this -with much pleasure, and was particularly pleased with the acquaintance -of St. M. v. Goethe. Having been elected a member of congress he -resigned his professorship. - -Mr. Everett called for me the next day to take me to Harvard University, -at Cambridge, three miles distant from Boston. At twelve o'clock we left -Boston, though the heat was extreme, and rode over the wooden bridge -which connects both towns, and is three thousand four hundred feet long. -Cambridge is by no means compactly built, but occupies a large extent of -ground. The houses are generally frame, a few of brick, and very few -entirely of granite; they are however painted with bright colours and -are very pleasing to the eye. Every house has a garden. Many meadows, -like those in England, are enclosed with three rails, lying one above -the other; Indian corn is cultivated in the fields; the grass was dry -and withered. - -Harvard University, one of the oldest colleges in the United States, was -founded in 1638, by a clergyman named Harvard, who bequeathed it about -eight hundred pounds sterling. By means of bequests made since that -period, it has now a very large income. The state of Massachusetts -supplies the deficiencies without however making any fixed contribution. -The university has eight buildings, chiefly of brick, and only one of -granite. The Unitarian chapel is in the latter, in which, besides the -usual services on Sunday, morning and evening prayers are held, which -all the students must attend. In front of the buildings is a large -space, surrounded with trees, where the students may amuse themselves. -The students are about three hundred and fifty in number, and -principally board and lodge in the buildings of the university; -a number, however, who cannot find room, or are recommended to families, -live in private houses. They are in other respects, as in the -universities of England, subjected to a very rigid discipline. The -library, which occupies two halls, contains about eighteen thousand -volumes. It contains the first edition of the large work on Egypt; -a Polyglot bible from the collection of Lord Clarendon; a splendid -edition of the Lusiad, by Camoens, with plates from the designs of -Gerard, edited by the Marquis de Souza, and printed by Didot at Paris. -Only two hundred and fifty copies of this edition were printed, and this -copy was given to the university by the Marquis himself. Of manuscripts -I saw but few, and these were Greek, which Mr. Everett bought at -Constantinople during his travels, and another containing the aphorisms -of Hippocrates, which an English schoolmaster copied with so much skill, -that it appears to have been printed.[I-4] In the mathematical lecture -room I did not observe a very complete apparatus. They have also but few -astronomical instruments, and in one observatory there are none. A new -electrical machine with a glass globe had but lately arrived from -England. The mineralogical collection is under obligations to Mr. -Ritchie for most of its finest specimens, which he bought during his -travels at Dresden, and presented to the university. A piece of basalt -found under ground in this neighbourhood, bears some similarity to the -profile of a human face. It is not known whether it be a lusus naturae or -the work of human hands. Does this belong to the remains of an earlier -race of men which has vanished from the earth, but which has, not -without reason, been supposed by many to have once existed? The other -natural collections were of slight importance; there are no collections -of insects and butterflies. I saw there also the antlers of two stags, -which had become so completely entangled in fighting, that they could -not be separated, and in this state they were killed. The chemical -laboratory is arranged in a separate house, strongly resembling a -chapel. The anatomical theatre has been removed for want of room, from -Cambridge to Boston. In the former lecture room, however, there are -still several handsome wax preparations made in Florence, among which -are two fine full length figures, male and female. The latter represents -a pregnant woman, and is separable. Near the chapel is the assembly room -of the academical senate, where there are some very handsome engravings. -I was surprised to find among these engravings the defence of Gibraltar, -by Elliot, and one which represented Admiral Dewinter taken prisoner by -Admiral Duncan. I gave the attendant who conducted us two dollars, and -he seemed to be so much gratified by my generosity, that when we were in -the chapel he whispered to the organist, who immediately played "God -save the king," at which I was much surprised. We were escorted through -the botanic garden by Professor Nuttall, an Englishman, who has made -several scientific journeys in the western parts of the United States. -Among the green-house plants I observed a strelitzia, which had been -raised from seed in this country, and also a blooming and handsome Inua -gloriosa, and a Hedychium longifolium. The green-house and the garden -are both small; in the latter I remarked no extraordinary shrubs or -flowers, on the contrary, however, I saw many beetles, which were new to -me, with bright colours, and extremely beautiful butterflies. A son of -President Adams is one of the students of the university, and also Mr. -Jerome Bonaparte, a legitimate son of the former king of Westphalia, by -his marriage with Miss Patterson of Baltimore, which marriage, as is -well known, was dissolved by the Emperor Napoleon. This young man, who -is about twenty years old, bears an excellent character. - - [Footnote I-4: [This manuscript is perhaps one of the most curious - specimens of calligraphy extant. Without the aid of a microscope - it is almost impossible to discover that it is not a printed work, - so extremely uniform and accurate is every letter. We believe it - was originally prepared for the celebrated Dr. Richard Meade of - London.]--TRANS.] - -My acquaintances increased in number, and I received visits from many -distinguished men. Among those who paid me this honour on the third day -after my arrival, I must mention the Danish ambassador, Mr. Pedersen, -who was travelling with his family in the northern parts of the United -States, and was introduced to me by Mr. Ritchie; Mr. Josiah Quincy, -mayor of the city, was also present, a worthy and extremely agreeable -man, to whom I am under great obligations. - -After the gentlemen had withdrawn, I visited the New England Museum, -a very pompous description of which had fallen into my hands. This -museum is a private establishment, and consists of a mixture of wax -figures, musical clocks, stuffed animals, portraits, French caricatures, -butterflies, &c. Two articles alone interested me, namely, two living -rattlesnakes, and three Egyptian mummies. The snakes, caught near Lake -Erie, were lying in a box covered with glass, and received no -nourishment but water. They are ugly creatures, of a dark gray colour, -with large sharp scales and yellow bellies. Large thick heads, prominent -black eyes, and forked tongues. One of them, which was engaged in -casting its skin, was for the time blind; it had four rattles, and was -receiving a fifth. The attendant irritated it, but we did not hear it -rattle. Spirit of hartshorn is said to be very effectual against their -bite. The mummies were brought last year in an American vessel from -Egypt. One was in the same condition in which it had been when in the -coffin, except that the cloth had been taken from the face. The two -others were more or less uncovered; their coffins were well preserved. -I was astonished to see the fresh colours of the figures painted on -them. One of the mummies had two coffins, whence it is inferred that she -was a person of high rank. I saw also a Chinese painting, representing -all the tortures and modes of death common in China; a shocking and -disgusting sight. Finally, I observed a good model of the old bastile of -Paris, made of a stone from this building. - -The mayor, Mr. Quincy, had the politeness to show us the state prison. -This is situated in Charlestown, is of granite, and was built about -twenty years ago at the expense of the state of Massachusetts. It -consists of a centre building, containing the dwelling and offices of -the superintendant, as well as the watchroom, and of two wings, where -the prisoners are lodged. Behind the building is a large yard where the -prisoners work. It is enclosed by a high wall, with palisades, which is -guarded day and night by several sentinels. The prisoners are chiefly -employed in cutting and polishing blocks of granite, which are used in -Boston and its vicinity. The punishment of every prisoner who is -sufficiently robust, commences with this hard labour, which, however, is -changed if his conduct merits it, or if he exhibits abilities for some -other employment. As stone-cutter, a daily task is assigned to him, -which, if not finished, or badly done, is followed by solitary -confinement. If he performs more than his task, he is paid for the -surplus. Of this sum he can dispose as he pleases when discharged. -Newly-arrived prisoners, and those who have conducted themselves badly, -are dressed in green and blue, when, however, they conduct themselves -properly again, they are freed from this distinguishing habit. Other -prisoners work at various trades; supplying at the same time their -mutual wants, as shoes, &c. An engraver who was imprisoned for -counterfeiting Nova Scotia bank notes, worked in a separate room, and -engraved very neat maps. Four prisoners sleep in one cell, which are all -tolerably well ventilated, and every prisoner has his own hammock. Black -bread and soup constitute the food of the prisoners, who receive besides -for breakfast and supper, a portion of syrup and flour, forming a kind -of pudding. Besides the usual service on Sunday, they have prayers -daily. - -A report of the state of the prison from September 30, 1823, to -September 30, 1824, which was published by the warden, Mr. Thomas -Harris, contains the following results:-- - -The whole number of prisoners from 1805 to September 30, 1824, was one -thousand eight hundred and sixteen; of these there were thirteen hundred -and three dismissed, after the period of their punishment had expired; -two hundred and ninety-eight were pardoned; fifteen escaped; one hundred -and two died; two hundred and ninety-eight remained; of the thirteen -hundred and three who were dismissed, two hundred and thirteen were a -second time in prison for new crimes, and among these two hundred and -thirteen there were twenty-four who had been pardoned. - -On the 30th of September, 1823, there were three hundred and eight -prisoners; of these eighty were dismissed, ten pardoned, six died, and, -consequently, two hundred and twelve remained. To these eighty-six had -been added, so that the number of prisoners amounted, September 30th, -1824, to two hundred and ninety-eight, as was mentioned above. Among -these there were only three females. - -Of these two hundred and ninety-eight, there were fifty-four black or -coloured people, and fifty-nine white foreigners, viz. thirteen -Englishmen, seventeen Irishmen, eight Scotchmen, four from Nova Scotia, -two Canadians, one from the Cape of Good Hope, three West Indians, four -Frenchmen, two Swedes, two Italians, one from Green Cape, one -Portuguese, one German. - -Two hundred and twenty-two were sentenced for stealing, twenty-six for -passing counterfeit money, sixteen for burglary, seven for attempted -rape, six for attempting to murder, five for being incendiaries, eleven -for forgery, and five, among whom were the three females, for robbery. - -The prisoners are employed in different occupations; one hundred and -twenty-one were stone-cutters, twenty-seven for removing the stone, -thirty joiners, eleven brush makers, eight weavers, six shoemakers, ten -tailors, &c. There were eleven in the hospital, four in solitary -confinement, and three invalids. - -The expenses of the prison amounted to forty-one thousand six hundred -and ninety-five dollars for the maintenance of the prisoners, clothes, -beds, medicine, and materials employed in the labours of the prisoners; -and fifteen thousand nine hundred and twenty-six dollars for the -officers, &c. Total of expenses, fifty-seven thousand six hundred and -twenty-two dollars. - -The income derived from the labours of the prisoners amounted to -fifty-eight thousand eight hundred and thirty-four dollars, and thus the -prison was not only of no expense to the state, but produced a profit of -twelve hundred and twelve dollars! - -After leaving this remarkable building, the mayor accompanied us to -Cambridge. A company of volunteers from Boston, the Washington Rangers, -were training. The company were already departing when we arrived, but -had the politeness to halt and repeat their exercise again. They -exhibited much skill. They are somewhat fantastically dressed in green, -and armed with long rifles. I became acquainted with the officers, who -were all young men of the best families. I also spoke with several -Cambridge students, some of whom were dressed in a uniform, belonging to -a volunteer company, consisting of students alone. - -We then went to Bunker's Hill, near Charlestown. The space is small, but -of great importance in American history. Connected with the main land by -a bridge, this field of battle lies on a small island and has two hills, -the higher and most northern of which is called Bunker's Hill; the -southern, Breed's Hill, commands Charlestown and the Boston Roads. -In the year 1775, the Americans occupied this hill, and with their -artillery, which was placed in a redoubt hastily thrown up, harassed the -English garrison in Boston, and the fleet. On the morning of the 17th of -June, the English made a sally, left Boston, landed on a point east of -the redoubt, where the Americans had left too weak a defence, formed -their columns, whilst the artillery in Boston set Charlestown on fire, -and attacked the redoubt. This was so well defended, that the English -were twice obliged to retreat with very great loss. In one of these -unsuccessful attacks, the English Major Pitcairn, who shortly before had -commanded the English advance guard at the affair of Lexington, was shot -by an American sharp shooter, who still lives, at the moment when he -shouted to his soldiers not to be "afraid of these d----d rebels, which -were nothing but a crowd of grasshoppers." - -But the English received reinforcements, and renewed the attack. The -Americans, on the contrary, had expended their ammunition, and the shot -sent to them from Cambridge, the headquarters of General Lee, were too -large for the calibre of their pieces. They could obtain no assistance, -as an English man of war kept up a fierce fire upon the bridge, the only -means of communication with the main land. They determined, therefore, -to evacuate the redoubt, and they effected it, though with great loss. -At this time an English officer shot Dr. WARREN, one of the most -distinguished American patriots, who shortly before had been appointed -general, by congress. The English did not pursue the Americans farther -than Bunker's Hill, but returned during the night to Boston. The remains -of the redoubt are still seen, and on the 17th of June last, the corner -stone of a monument was laid, which is to be an obelisk two hundred and -ten feet high. One hundred and thirty veterans were present at this -ceremony, the last of the seventeen hundred Americans who had -participated in this affair. - -Finally, Mr. Quincy introduced us, in Charlestown, to a major of -militia, who devotes much of his attention to rural economy, and to the -breeding of cattle and horses. His whole establishment was interesting. -The major showed us, particularly, a noble English bull, from which he -had raised very handsome and strong calves, and also a fine English -stallion, ten years old. - -In these peregrinations I made inquiries after Miss Wright, who, some -years ago, published letters on America, which excited much attention in -Europe, as well as in America. I was told that this _lady_ with her -sister, unattended by a male protector, had roved through the country, -in steam-boats and stages, that she constantly tagged about after -General La Fayette, and whenever the general arrived at any place, Miss -Wright was sure to follow next day, as but little notice had been taken -of this _lady_ in Boston, a literary attack was expected from her pen. -She is no longer young, and is of tall stature and masculine manners. In -general, her letters are not much esteemed, and the flattering terms in -which she speaks of Americans and all their institutions, are regarded -as overstrained.[I-5] - - [Footnote I-5: [This "_lady_" is now one of the editors of a - newspaper, published in the western country, devoted to the - especial debasement of the human race. She has kindly undertaken - to enlighten the Americans by endeavouring to convince them that - _religion_ is a cheat, _chastity_ a dream, and all who adhere to - the pure precept of the gospel of our Saviour, fools!]--TRANS.] - -On the 30th of July I went on board the Pallas to attend to the -unloading of my baggage. I remained there a few hours, as I found it -cooler on board than on shore. The vessel was as they said, full of -visitors all day, for Captain Ryk, with his usual liberality, denied -access to no one of genteel appearance. Citizens are by no means allowed -to visit American vessels of war, unless they are known to an officer, -and on this account the curiosity of the inhabitants of this place to -see a foreign vessel of war is great. - -When I returned to the city, I visited Mr. Quincy, who took me to the -Court-house to see the arsenal of the thirteen volunteer companies of -this place. One of these companies has been organized ever since 1638; -all of these consist of young men of good families, who do not wish to -serve in the same companies with the common crowd, but have united, and, -in elegant uniforms, compose the flank companies of the battalions of -militia. A large hall in the Court-house is appropriated for their -exercises, when the weather is inclement. Every company consists of -about sixty men. The greater number of the companies are armed like -infantry, with bayonets according to the English mode, and the riflemen -alone with rifles. Not only the arms of the company, but the swords of -the officers are kept in the chambers of the Court-house. - -From the Court-house, Mr. Quincy took me to the Athenaeum, where the -principal journals of the United States are found, and a library of -about twenty thousand volumes, which were partly presented and partly -purchased. A regular librarian showed us every thing; we noticed -particularly several interesting medals, and the collection made by -Thomasson in Birmingham, which represents the Elgin marbles. In the -vestibule of the house, and in the large reading room, are plaster -busts, which Lawyer Thorndike brought from Rome and presented to the -Athenaeum. The handsome house itself, which is valued at twenty thousand -dollars, was given to the society by Mr. Perkins, a brother of the -celebrated mechanician in London. - -Some days later, August 2, Mr. Quincy had the politeness to show me -several hospitals of the city. - -The civil hospital was founded about twenty years ago, and is a massive -building of granite, with ten Ionic columns of the same stone. The -building, founded by voluntary subscriptions, and afterwards enriched by -legacies, now supports itself by the interest of the capital and by fees -which some patients pay. The administration of the hospitals and other -benevolent institutions, is conducted, without charge, by the principal -inhabitants, in a very correct and economical manner. The house has a -cellar, two stories besides a ground floor, and may contain about eighty -sick of both sexes, which are placed in different wings of the building. -There were at that time fifty-six patients, under the care of six nurses -and a matron. The house is under the direction of a steward, who is at -the same time a physician. Those patients who pay ten dollars a week, -occupy separate chambers, with separate attendants; others pay only -three dollars a week, and many nothing at all. The latter are all in the -same halls, which, however, are very light and well ventilated. The sick -sleep on beds of hard wood, with good hair mattresses and very fine bed -clothes. The steps are of granite, the halls and chambers are planked, -and the floors are painted with oil colours. I have seen many hospitals, -but none in which the sick were so conveniently and suitably lodged, and -none in which cleanliness was so well observed. The kitchen and -wash-house are in the cellar. In the former, the victuals are cooked by -means of steam, and the latter is arranged like that in the Plymouth -Marine Hospital, namely, with very large wooden frames to dry the -clothes. The session room of the directors, the anatomical theatre, with -some chambers for sick, are in the first story; the dwelling of the -matron, and the remainder of the chambers for patients, are arranged in -the second story. Two reservoirs of water, which may be raised by pumps, -should a fire break out, are situated on the ground floor. Mr. Coolidge, -one of the directors, accompanied us, and conducted us also to the -lunatic asylum, which is under the same directors. - -This building stands on an eminence between Cambridge and Charlestown. -A farm-house has been purchased in the neighbourhood, which serves as -the dwelling of the steward and head physician, as well as for a kitchen -and wash-house. Behind this house two very solid wings have been built, -three stories high, one for males, and the other for females. They -somewhat resemble prisons, but are concealed by the farm-house, which -has a very pleasing aspect, and thus prevents the unpleasant sensations -which the institution would otherwise excite in the minds of the unhappy -lunatics when they first approach it. A large garden, surrounded with a -wall, is attached to each wing, serving as a place of recreation for the -patients. A well-lighted corridor runs along each story, at each side of -which are the doors of the cells; in these nothing is placed but a -wooden bedstead, as in the hospital. Every story has an eating room, and -a common hall; in the latter, in which the sick may pass the day, -a table is placed with benches, which are nailed to the floor. The -infuriated are placed in solitary cells, and when they cannot be -subdued, are brought under a cold shower bath. The chambers are heated, -as in the hospitals, by means of flues. In this asylum also, in which -there were forty patients, the greatest cleanliness prevailed. - -On the 3d of August, Mr. Quincy called for me at twelve o'clock, to -introduce me, with Captain Ryk and Mr. Tromp, to the elder Mr. Adams, -father of the present president. This worthy old man, who was ninety -years old, and a signer of the Declaration of Independence, lives ten -miles from Boston, on his farm at Quincy, revered by his family, and -honoured by the whole nation, who regard him as their common father. -I was much affected when, as I approached this venerable man who had so -efficiently laboured in the cause of American independence, he extended -to me his hand. He was still in full possession of his mental faculties, -and remembered, not only the things which had occurred long ago, but -knew also every thing which had recently taken place, or was now -passing. His bodily strength, however, was diminishing, and he felt a -weakness, particularly in his legs. He conversed with me about half an -hour, especially concerning Holland, where he had been ambassador during -the revolution, and the features of his ancient countenance revived -again as he dwelt on the fact, that it was owing to him that Holland -then declared war against England, and the English ambassador, -notwithstanding all his intrigues, could effect nothing. When Mr. Tromp -was introduced to him, he remembered his great ancestor, shook his hand -in a friendly manner, was much affected, and said to him, "God bless -you, Van Tromp!" We left this worthy old man in deep emotion, and -congratulated each other on our good fortune in having been introduced -to this departing veteran of a revolution, which may well be called -salutary. - -In his house we saw several good portraits and busts of him, portraits -of his wife, who died seven years ago, of his son, the president, and of -General _Warren_, who fell at Bunker's Hill. We saw also a son of -President J. Q. Adams, who is a lawyer at Boston, and with whom I became -acquainted some days ago in the Athenaeum. - -From Boston to Quincy there is a good turnpike road. It runs over some -hills, on which the traveller sees a handsome panorama; behind him the -city, on the left the bay, in front a well-cultivated region with -handsome farms, on the right the Blue Hills. We passed by several neat -farm-houses; the grounds are separated by means of dry walls, the stones -of which are partly hewn, and separated from each other, somewhat like -those of Scotland. No old trees are found, because the first settlers -very imprudently destroyed all the wood, and now it must be raised again -with much trouble. Lombardy poplars, and plane trees are frequent. The -inhabitants generally appear to be in good circumstances, at least the -farmers seem to prosper, and the houses appear to great advantage, for -instance, we remarked a common village blacksmith shop, which was built -of massive granite. At the very neat village of Miltonbridge we passed -over the river Neponset, which is navigable for small vessels. - -Quincy contains about four thousand inhabitants, and has assumed this -name in honour of the mayor's family, which is here much beloved and -esteemed. Mr. Quincy's country seat, to which we repaired from the house -of the ex-president, is about two miles distant from the latter, and -lies in the neighbourhood of the sea on a small eminence, from which -there is a very handsome prospect towards the bay. Mr. Quincy introduced -us to his family, to his wife, two sons, and four daughters. The eldest -daughter is very accomplished, and excels in painting landscapes in -sepia. Some years ago she visited the Falls of Niagara with her family, -and sketched several views. The other daughters are also very well -educated, and have a talent for music. We met here several gentlemen -from Boston, among others, Mr. Shepherd, Mr. Everett, and President -Kirkland, from Cambridge, who was accompanied by an aged English -teacher, Mr. Cooper, who fled from England with PRIESTLEY, thirty-five -years ago, and now directs Columbia College in South Carolina. He -appeared to be a gloomy, austere man, and very different in his address -from the humane and friendly manner of Dr. Kirkland. Towards evening we -returned to Boston by a shorter road, and passed the Neponset by means -of a long wooden bridge, which Mr. Quincy built not far from the place -where it empties into the sea. We then passed through Dorchester, and -saw on an eminence to the right the remains of two redoubts, built by -the English, which the great _Washington_ took from them, strengthened, -and thus principally contributed to the evacuation of Boston. - -I accompanied, August 4th, a party to a Mr. Nathaniel Amory; we passed -over the long mill-dam, which cuts off a part of the water surrounding -Boston, and is to be filled up in time, and houses built on it. Six -miles from the city is a wooden bridge over Charles river, which we -crossed to see the arsenal on the opposite side. This establishment was -built in 1816. A long yard, surrounded with a wall of granite, is -attached to the chief arsenal, which is three stories high, with two -wings, containing the offices and dwellings of the two directors, Major -Craige and Lieutenant Van Nessen. The workshops of the different -mechanics, belonging to the arsenal, are arranged behind this building, -on each side of the yard; at a short distance from the arsenal stands -the powder magazine, built of granite, and containing about fifty -thousand pounds; thirty thousand stands of arms are contained in the -arsenal in chests, each holding twenty pieces. I saw there a -newly-invented machine for casting a hundred and sixty-two balls at -once, giving them at the same time a perfectly round form. The arsenal -is very pleasantly situated in Watertown. - -We passed farther along the shore, through a romantic part of the -country, towards Waltham. At this place a branch of a large cotton -manufactory is situated, belonging to a company of twenty-five persons. -It is under the direction of Mr. Jackson, who possesses a very handsome -dwelling, where he appears to pass a happy life with his amiable family. -About four hundred and fifty workmen are employed, who live in different -buildings belonging to the factory, and form a particular colony; they -have two schools, a church, and a clergyman. They appear to be in very -good circumstances, as the dress, cleanly exterior, and healthy -appearance of the workmen testify. In these buildings the cotton is spun -and woven; but the colouring and printing are performed in another -establishment. The machines are worked by water, which is said not to -freeze in winter, but sometimes fails in dry summers. More simple -machines than jennys are used for spinning, and the dressing machines -are different from those in the Netherlands, though not better, -I believe, as they have but one cylinder. The weaving machines are -mostly of wood, which is very cheap, though I believe that our iron ones -are better. The workmen of this factory are, as I have since learned, -esteemed on account of their good manners, and their morality is -universally praised. But one case of seduction occurred in ten years. -After leaving this factory we passed by several very neat houses and -parks; the latter are smaller than those in England, because in this -country there are no rights of primogeniture, and the estate of parents -at their death is divided into as many parts as there are children. On -this account we do not find such great and powerful landholders here as -in England. It is a subject of dispute, whether primogeniture or equal -division be preferable; but it is certain that real prosperity is much -more diffused through the nation in America, and the land is better -cultivated. - -Mr. Nathaniel Amory's country seat lies on a small eminence in a -tolerably large park, and affords an extensive prospect of the vicinity -of Boston. Mr. Amory collected several good paintings of the Flemish -school in his travels, and some handsome mosaic work in Rome, with which -his house is decorated. In the afternoon we took a walk through the park -to a cottage, which belongs to the English sea captain, Wormley, -brother-in-law of Mr. Amory, and, though small, is very neatly arranged, -and handsomely situated. A small lake, called the Fresh Pond, with its -shady trees, affords a very picturesque view. After spending some time -very agreeably with his friendly family, we returned at nine o'clock in -the evening, by way of Cambridge to Boston. - -I visited the navy-yard on the 5th August, in company with Major -Wainwright, of the marines, and Lieutenant Gwynn. In the small barracks -of the marines where we commenced, the rooms are not large; the beds -stand on a platform, so that the rooms are very narrow and close. The -appearance of the soldiers was not remarkable. The navy-yard was founded -only twelve years ago, and not yet completed, but is very extensive. -A dry dock has not yet been made, but will be advantageously placed. The -two line of battle ships, Columbus and Independence, and the frigate -Java, were in ordinary. Two line of battle-ships and a corvette were on -the stocks, and not yet named. The two former, which were under sheds, -were finished, so that they could leave the stocks as soon as government -should order. But as no loss was incurred, the vessels were allowed to -lie on the stocks, and under shelter as long as possible, that the wood -may become still better seasoned. The sheds are larger than the English, -and are actual houses. The two vessels are very modestly called -seventy-fours, but have each three decks; the one pierced for one -hundred and thirty thirty-two pounders, and the other for an hundred and -thirty-six, of the same caliber. They are built of live oak, and to -prevent the dry rot, salt is scattered among the timbers, which, as I -was told, was of great advantage. The vessels are so high and roomy, -that I could stand erect in the two lower batteries under the beams. -Some methods which tend to strengthen and relieve vessels, used in other -places, have not yet been adopted here; for instance, I did not observe -the cruciform strengthening of the sides, and the diagonal deck, -according to the plan of Sir Robert Seppings, from which two -improvements the navies of England and the Netherlands derive the -greatest advantage. The same system which prevails in England is -observed here, namely, not to employ shipwrights for builders, as in the -Netherlands and in France, but carpenters. Mr. Baker, the master -shipwright of this place, with whom I became acquainted, is considered -to be a very skilful man. - -After we had seen the navy-yard, been much gratified with its good -condition, and wishing it might soon be finished, we visited the lady of -the commissioner, Captain Craine, who was absent. The commissioner's -house belongs to the government, and is placed on a height overlooking -the navy-yard; the architect who planned it, worried the commissioner -with continual questions relative to the form of the house, until -finally he replied in great vexation, build it _like my ----_. The -architect took him at his word, and built it with two round projections -standing close together, which have a very curious appearance from the -navy-yard. We saw in the navy-yard sails of cotton canvass, which are -preferred to hempen sails, both because they are more easily worked, and -are peculiarly durable. They are not, however, liked in the navy, -because they are too combustible, and on that account might be extremely -dangerous to a vessel during an action; they are therefore used only for -the higher sails. - -On the next day Mr. Quincy very politely invited me to visit some of the -public schools, which are under his direction. I accepted this -invitation with much pleasure, for in a country like this, where the -people govern themselves, without doubt the prevailing spirit may be -best learnt from the institutions for public education. There are also -at Boston, besides various private and two public schools, a Latin and a -mathematical school, called _high schools_, which are both maintained at -the expense of the city; boys of every class are admitted without paying -for their tuition.[I-6] Well-informed young men, who received good -salaries, are selected as teachers. The first teacher of the high school -receives yearly two thousand five hundred dollars. The study of the -ancient languages, the Latin and Greek, forms the basis of public -instruction. At the same time that these are taught, the attention, -acuteness, and memory of the pupils, are variously exercised; if, for -example, any one recites a line of the Eneid, and repeats the last -letter, another immediately arises, and repeats from the same poem a -line, beginning with this letter. The pupils do this with wonderful -rapidity. The declamations took place during our presence. One of the -scholars recited the speech of an English member of parliament, with so -warm and correct a delivery, that the speech could scarcely have been -better spoken in parliament. Another recited an oration, in which the -advantages of a moderate above a despotic government, were also -exhibited in a very good and distinct manner. Every evening the place of -each scholar in the class for the next day, is appointed by the teacher, -according to the industry which he may have shown during the day, and -entered into a book. At the end of the month judgments are passed on all -the pupils according to this list. - - [Footnote I-6: The expenses of public instruction, with the - exception of Harvard University, are defrayed by means of a school - tax, granted by the representatives of the state of Massachusetts, - to which every inhabitant of the state is obliged to contribute. - This praiseworthy arrangement exists also in Maine, New Hampshire, - Vermont, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. In the last state, - moreover, those parents who neglect to keep their children at - school, are fined five dollars for every absent child, which sum - goes into the school treasury.] - -The mathematical and physical sciences are taught in the high school; it -possesses a very good philosophical cabinet. We heard one class examined -in arithmetic, and another in analytic geometry. In the former I saw -that much attention was paid to mental calculation, and was surprised at -the quick and correct solutions of difficult arithmetical questions. -In the higher class the teacher proposed a question, and all those -immediately arose who thought they could answer it. One was designated -by the teacher to solve it, and if another thought the answer not -exactly correct, he raised his hand, without interrupting the first, and -corrected him when called upon. I was pleased both with the kind manners -of the teachers, and the modest, correct, and easy deportment of the -scholars. The boys generally had handsome faces, and were all of an -animated physiognomy. With this they combine, as I was frequently -convinced, the greatest respect for their parents and teachers. It -appears to me impossible that young people, who receive so liberal an -education, can grow up to be bad or malicious men. I was indeed affected -when I left the schools, and could not but congratulate Mr. Quincy from -the bottom of my heart, on such a rising generation! Captain Ryk, who -accompanied us, participated in my views and feelings. - -From the schools we went to the state-house or capitol, of the exterior -of which I have already spoken, but the interior arrangement I had not -yet seen. Besides the offices belonging to the state government, it -contains the assembly rooms of the three bodies which govern the state, -the council of the governor, the senate, and the representatives. These -rooms are spacious; still, however, it is evident, that thirty-seven -years ago, when this building was erected, every thing was done in -haste, and that architecture had not then made the progress which it -since has. All the steps are of wood. A trophy is erected in one of the -chambers, composed of Brunswick arms, which were taken at the battle of -Saratoga. One hundred and sixty-eight steps lead to the lantern of the -cupola, which is of wood, and covered with copper. Notwithstanding the -excessive heat, we went up, and our labour was richly recompensed by a -splendid prospect. The dome is the highest point in the vicinity, and -affords a view not only of the whole city and the bay, but also of a -great extent of ground beyond, in every part of which a number of neat -dwellings may be observed. - -Thus passed almost fourteen days, in an uncommonly pleasing and -instructive manner. In general my state of health allowed me to enjoy -every new and interesting object with serenity of mind; I was indisposed -but two days, and this was probably owing to the excessive heat. Even -the intermediate hours, which could not be dedicated to the inspection -of public institutions, generally afforded instructive amusements. -I passed the morning in reading and writing, then received or paid -visits, and at all times met with attention, courteousness, and -kindness. I visited the churches on the Sundays I passed in Boston, -which are still more quietly kept in America than in England. The first -time I went to a Unitarian church, attended by a son of the mayor; -a second time I went to an Episcopalian church, accompanied by Mr. -Lloyd, a very distinguished man, and senator of the United States. -I dined twice at the inn, but generally accepted some friendly -invitation, and passed all my evenings very agreeably in company at -musical parties and other entertainments. I also made some excursions -into the country besides those already mentioned. - -The society, especially when ladies are not present, is uncommonly fine -and lively--both sexes are very well educated and accomplished. So much -care is bestowed upon the education of the female sex, that it would -perhaps be considered in other countries as superfluous. Young ladies -even learn Latin and Greek, but then they also can speak of other things -besides fashions and tea-table subjects; thus, for instance, I was at a -party of Mrs. General Humphreys, which was entirely in the European -style, without cards, dancing or music, and yet it was lively and -agreeable. Thus I passed some delightful hours with Mr. Ritchie, Mr. -Dixon, Mr. Homer, Mr. Otis, Mr. Shepherd, and Mr. Artiguenave, -a Frenchman, formerly an actor in the Theatre Francais, at Paris, and -now professor of the French language at Cambridge University. Many of -those gentlemen who are met with in such society, have travelled in -Europe, sometimes accompanied by their ladies; Europeans are frequently -present, and thus there is no want of materials for conversation. The -generality of the houses, moreover, offer something attractive in the -fine arts; and in returning home on an evening, the city, the bridges, -and the Mill-dam are very well lighted, not indeed with gas, but with -reflecting lamps, and none of that disorderly conduct is observed in the -streets, which so often shocks the mind in the cities of England. - -We made an excursion on the 1st of August into the country with Mr. -Dixon in his dearborn. A dearborn is a very light wagon, with two -benches and four wheels, drawn by one horse. We rode over the neck which -unites Boston with the main land, and was fortified by the English -during the revolution; then in an ascending direction towards the -heights of Roxbury, where, during the blockade, the right wing of the -American lines stood. The ground is very rocky, and partly covered with -fir trees; the trees which formerly stood here must have been entirely -removed, as not one high tree can be seen. Passing farther on we saw -very handsome country houses and gardens, the former generally two -stories high, and surrounded with covered colonnades. At one of these we -paid a visit to the owner, Mr. Rufus Amory. A walk, shaded by oak, elm, -and maple trees, leads to the dwelling on a slight elevation, which -commands an extended and beautiful view of Boston and the bay. We were -received by the friendly owner in an extremely obliging and hospitable -manner. We rode through a romantic part of the country to Dorchester, to -visit General Sumner at his country seat, but did not find him at home. -We then returned by another handsome road to Boston, and passed a large -rope manufactory, the works of which were moved by steam. - -At another excursion to Dorchester, in company with some young men, sons -of the richest inhabitants of the place, a game of ten-pins was played. -It is called ten-pins, because that number of pins is here used in the -game.[I-7] - - [Footnote I-7: [Most probably to evade a law against - "_nine_-pins."]--TRANS.] - -Finally, I cannot omit to mention one visit, which, in company with Mr. -Ritchie, I made to Mr. Coolidge, jr. Mr. Coolidge had, three months ago, -married a Miss Randolph, a granddaughter of THOMAS JEFFERSON. His wife, -about thirty years old, was brought up by her grandfather in the country -in his library. She is said to be so learned that JEFFERSON often asked -her advice. She had arrived a few days previous, and made known that she -would receive visiters, and we therefore found the chamber filled with -people. Every one at his departure took with him a piece of wedding -cake. The young ladies, as it is said, place this cake under their -pillows, and then dream of their future lovers. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - _Journey from Boston to Albany, by way of Worcester and - Northampton.-- Sojourn there, from the 8th to the 14th of - August, 1825._ - - -Accompanied by Mr. Tromp, who had become endeared to me by his -knowledge, his modest, honourable, and amiable deportment, I left Boston -on the 9th of August, for Worcester, distant forty miles. The -mail-coach, like the diligence stage, consists of a long calash with -three benches, each capable of containing three persons. The top is -fixed, though the curtains can be rolled up, so that a person may enjoy -the fresh air and the prospect of the surrounding country, without being -exposed to the sun. - -We left the hospitable city of Boston with grateful hearts, and rode -over the Mill-dam into the interior of the country. The horses were -changed four times, generally in small villages; Farmingham and -Westborough appeared to be the only ones of any importance. The country -sometimes seemed wild, and but thinly settled, though the state of -Massachusetts is said to be the most populous in North America. We saw -no grain,[I-8] though in some places we observed Indian corn, and now -and then some millet. Apple orchards were abundant--the trees hung so -full of fruit that many of the boughs were broken. The apples are small -and yellow, and are employed in preparing the favourite beverage called -cider. We gradually approached forests, consisting of oak, chesnut, and -elm trees. Sumach also occurs in some places, the bark of which is said -to be excellent for tanning leather. There are evidently no forest -regulations here, and the timber is very much neglected. The road was -for the greatest part a good turnpike, and made in the German manner. We -crossed several small rivers and rivulets on wooden bridges, which are -very slight, though they are built with a great waste of timber. The -planks are not even nailed upon the beams, so that I began to be -somewhat fearful, especially as the carriage drove rapidly over. About -two miles from Worcester we crossed a lake called Guansiganog-pond, on a -wooden bridge one-fourth of a mile in length. The banks of this lake are -covered with wood, and present a very handsome appearance. On our way, -we were overtaken by a considerable thunder-storm, which settled the -dust, and procured us a pleasant evening. We arrived at Worcester about -7 o'clock, and alighted at an excellent tavern. This town contains about -four thousand inhabitants, and consists of a principal street, with an -avenue shaded with old elm trees, and of several bye-streets, which, -like the preceding, are altogether unpaved. The houses, generally built -of wood, and but few of brick, are all surrounded with gardens, and -stand at a considerable distance from each other, so that the town -appears like a village. It has four churches, a bank, and three -printing-offices, each of which furnishes a newspaper. There are also -printing-offices in many of the villages through which we passed, as -well as a fire-engine in each. In the evening we paid a visit to the -governor of Massachusetts, Mr. Levi Lincoln, who resides at this place. -We found this worthy man, who is universally esteemed by his -fellow-citizens, at home with his wife and sister-in-law, and were -received by him in the most friendly manner. We spent a very agreeable -evening in his company. A proof of the public esteem which he enjoys, -is, that at the last election, there was not a single vote against him, -an example almost unparalleled in the United States. The governor is -styled "his excellency." On the following morning the governor conducted -us to a recently established museum, which is designed chiefly for the -collection of American antiquities. It is yet in its infancy, and -contains but few interesting specimens; the library also is of small -extent, notwithstanding we must render full justice to the inhabitants -for their laudable zeal in the cause of natural science. We rode around -the town in company with the governor, passed the court-house and -prison, which unfortunately we had not time to visit, and returned to -our inn. The gardens we passed had rather a wild appearance. They -cultivate kitchen vegetables, a few watermelons, and fruit; we saw no -flowers excepting the sunflower. - - [Footnote I-8: [The harvest having occurred in July.]--TRANS.] - -At 10 o'clock we departed in the Worcester stage for Northampton, -distant forty-seven miles. Our company in the stage-coach consisted of -two gentlemen and ladies from the state of Mississippi, who had -undertaken a tour to the northern states on account of the unhealthy -climate in their own country, and who entertained us very agreeably with -an account of their estates. The road was worse than yesterday, -sometimes sandy, and the horses generally bad, so that on the whole, our -progress was slow. The country is less populous, as well as less -cultivated, though there is more timber, which, however, is also very -much neglected. We observed the cypress and a few large cedars. As there -are no grazing laws in force, they are obliged on account of the cattle, -and particularly on account of the sheep which graze in these woods at -large, to make fences of young chesnut trees which are split into four -pieces. These fences generally consist of six rails placed upon each -other, with an interspace of several inches. They are placed in an -angular form, and at the point where the rails meet, they are placed one -upon the other, and usually supported upon a large stone. Such a waste -of timber and land is only pardonable in a country where the inhabitants -are few, and where timber is abundant. A large extent of wood-land has -been cleared only within a short time, and the trunks of the trees which -remained have been destroyed by fire. The soil is not particularly -fertile. We observed numerous blocks of granite, which may be hereafter -usefully employed, the large for building, and the small upon the roads. -The villages which we passed on our way are Leicester, seven, Spencer, -five, Brookfield, seven, Ware, eight, Belchertown, nine, and Madley, ten -miles. They are most of them small places, consisting generally of frame -houses, standing at a distance from each other, which are very neat and -comfortable; each village has a frame church and a school-house. Stores -are observed in most of these places, and in Belchertown there is even a -fashionable one. The churches are usually provided with long sheds, -in which the carriages and horses of the members of the church are -protected from the heat and weather during the service. Ware, situated -on the river of the same name, which is crossed by a wooden bridge -rather better built than usual, was laid out about three years since; -it is a neat, flourishing place, and belongs to the Dexter family in -Boston, who have established a woollen and cotton manufactory here, the -workmen of which, above three hundred in number, form the inhabitants of -the place. Mr. Dexter, of Boston, had entrusted me with an important -packet of papers for his brother, who resides in Ware, which I delivered -in person. We found Mr. Dexter with his beautiful wife, at his neat and -well arranged cottage, situated in the centre of a garden, and received -a friendly welcome. From his window he can overlook the whole village -and manufactories. Heretofore, said Mr. Dexter, I have received the -greatest part of my wool from Saxony, which is preferred here to the -Spanish; but at present, we have sheep imported from Saxony, which are -permitted to roam at large through the wood, as there are no wild -animals in Massachusetts to destroy them; they yield a very superior -kind of wool. Unfortunately we were not at leisure to accept of Mr. -Dexter's invitation to look at his establishments. At the tavern, which -was perfectly clean and comfortable, we obtained a very good dinner, and -continued our journey. The inhabitants of Ware are said to be -distinguished for their strict morality. They have a common school, to -which they are obliged by law to send their children, as is the case -throughout Massachusetts, or pay a fine. In Ware there is but one -physician, who has a handsome house, and keeps a well furnished -apothecary store. The strict republicans are jealous of the large -manufacturing establishments, because they are afraid that individual -citizens, in consequence of their property, may have too great an -influence upon a large mass of people; but I imagine that the republic -has nothing to fear on this head, since the effect of individual -influence is counterbalanced by the promotion of the welfare of the -poorer classes. - -About a mile from Northampton we passed the Connecticut river, five -hundred yards wide, in a small ferry-boat, which, as the night had -already set in, was not very agreeable. At Northampton we took lodgings -at Warner's Hotel, a large, clean, and convenient inn. In front of the -house is a large porch, and in the first story a large balcony. The -gentlemen sit below, and the ladies walk above. It is called a piazza, -and has many conveniences. Elm trees stand in front of the house, and a -large reflecting lamp illuminates the house and the yard. This, with the -beautiful warm evening, and the great number of people, who reposed on -the piazza, or went to and from the house, produced a very agreeable -effect. The people here are exceedingly religious, and, besides going to -church on Sundays, they go thrice during the week. When we arrived, the -service had just ended, and we saw some very handsome ladies come out of -the church. Each bed-chamber of our tavern was provided with a bible. -To-day I observed also a new mode of delivering letters and newspapers. -The driver of the mail-coach throws the letters and newspapers, with -which he is entrusted, before the houses where they are to be left; he -sometimes throws them even into open fields, along the lane leading from -the main road to the house. - -About two years ago, Messrs. Cogswell and Bancroft established a -boarding-school at Northampton. The day after our arrival, 11th of -August, Mr. Cogswell paid me a visit, and introduced one of his -professors, Dr. Beck, of Heidelberg, a step-son of Dr. De Wette, of -Weimar, who teaches the Latin and Greek languages. Another German -professor, whom, however, I did not see, directs the gymnastic -exercises. Both these gentlemen conducted us to the institute, which is -situated on Round Hill, about a mile from Northampton. - -Northampton contains about four thousand inhabitants, and its buildings -are, apparently, very much like those of Worcester; it has one bank, -a court-house, prison, and a printing-office. From Mr. Cogswell's -institute, you have a magnificent view of the fertile and -well-cultivated valley of the Connecticut river, which, in this place, -winds between two lofty mountains, Holyoake and Mounttoby. On the left, -the lofty mountains of New Hampshire present a beautiful prospect. In -1824, this institution had but forty pupils, and in 1825, it numbered no -less than seventy-four, so that Mr. Cogswell is obliged, although he has -three large houses belonging to his establishment, to erect a fourth and -larger one. The gymnastic exercises, for which a place is provided in -the woods, with the necessary apparatus, form a principal part of the -instructions of this seminary. The boys are entirely excluded from the -world; but that they may not become too much estranged, Mr. Cogswell -accompanies them annually in various pedestrian tours through the -surrounding country. I visited Mr. Bancroft at his room. Both these -gentlemen entertain the warmest enthusiasm for Germany and the German -method of instruction, and are determined to regulate every thing -according to that system. Mr. Bates, a lawyer introduced to us by Mr. -Cogswell, returned with us to town, and showed us the church, -court-house, and a collection of minerals, in the possession of Dr. -Hunt, in which I admired particularly two specimens of American beryl -and several specimens of rock-crystal. On our return to the tavern, -I received a visit from a physician, Dr. Seeger, who was educated with -Schiller in the military school at Wirtemberg. He wished to become -acquainted with me on account of my father, for whom he expressed the -highest veneration. I must acknowledge, that, in a country so far from -my native land, this afforded me the most sincere gratification, and my -acquaintance with the worthy Dr. Seeger, who has been an inhabitant of -the United States during the last forty years, and who is universally -esteemed as an honest man and a good physician, I shall always remember -with pleasure and satisfaction. - -At Springfield, twenty miles from Northampton down the Connecticut -river, is the government armoury. We left Northampton, to visit this -establishment, under the most oppressive heat, with five ladies and two -gentlemen in the stage-coach, into which we were crowded, somewhat like -those that were shut up in the Trojan horse. We arrived about 3 o'clock -in the afternoon, and again found an excellent tavern, which was -provided with a piazza. Our ride passed through a well-cultivated region -of country, along the right bank of the Connecticut river; Indian corn, -millet, and potatoes were observed in considerable abundance, in some -places we also observed hemp, and sometimes, though seldom, hops. - -Springfield is situated on the left bank of the Connecticut river, over -which, close by the town, is a wooden bridge, five hundred yards long, -and built in a very awkward style. Springfield has much more the -appearance of a city than Worcester and Northampton, for there are at -least some stone houses situated so closely together that they form a -street. Colonel Lee had the goodness to take us in his carriage to the -manufactory of arms, of which he is the director. It is situated about a -mile from Springfield, in a very beautiful valley, on a rivulet. It -employs daily two hundred and seventy-four workmen. These are settled in -the vicinity of the manufactory, form a kind of colony, and have a -school for their children. They are also obliged to distinguish -themselves by their good moral deportment. The muskets for the American -army are made on the improved French model of 1777, with the exception -that they are somewhat shorter, while the bayonets are rather longer. -The barrels and bayonets are browned, as Dupin has described at full -length in Travels through Great Britain. We examined the works -throughout. There are several houses, and the machines are propelled by -water. They finish annually fifteen thousand muskets, each of which -costs the government on an average eleven dollars. How much might be -saved, if, as in other countries, muskets were made by private workmen! -The arsenal in which these muskets are preserved and packed in chests, -each containing twenty pieces, was destroyed by fire about a year and a -half since, but having been rebuilt, it consists at present of a centre -building for the offices, two isolated wings for the preservation of the -different arms, and of several other adjacent buildings for the -necessary workshops. These buildings form an oblong square, of which the -proper armoury forms one of the short sides; on the other, oppositely to -the centre building, is Colonel Lee's neat and beautiful dwelling. The -houses belonging to the arsenal are built of brick externally, while -internally every thing is of wood; and as, during the winter season -these buildings are heated with wood, there appeared to me to be much -danger of fire. I remarked this to Colonel Lee, who appeared to -participate in my apprehensions. After our return to the tavern, Mr. -Calhoun, with whom we had become acquainted through Mr. Bates, -introduced us to several gentlemen of the town, and took us in the -evening to a musical party at the house of a Mr. Dwight, where we found -the fashionable part of society assembled. The ladies sang very well, -and played on the piano-forte several pieces from "Der Freischutz," -an opera which is at present a favourite in America. - -We had determined to go on the 12th of August to New Lebanon, to visit -the Springs and the Shaker's village, but the Fates had decreed -otherwise. We left Springfield at two o'clock in the morning in the -stage, rode over the bridge, through Westfield, which, as far as we -could judge in the dark, is a handsome village, and arrived at day break -in a romantic valley, on Westfield river, whose waters fall over huge -rocks. At Russel, which is situated in an uncultivated valley, seventeen -miles from Springfield, we partook of an excellent breakfast at the -stage-office, and were much pleased at the clean and comfortable -appearance of the houses and inhabitants. It was so cold early in the -morning, that a large fire which we found at this house, was quite -comfortable. The road through the wild romantic valley, generally -ascending, and along the river, was rather bad, and often very narrow; -instead of a railing, there were only trunks of large trees, which were -permitted to decay in a very unjustifiable manner. The bridges also were -as badly built as those of which we have already complained. The forest -trees were very handsome, but many of them are destroyed for the cabins -of the new settlers. These dwellings, like the log-houses, are built of -the trunks of large trees. Amongst the few settlers whom we observed -there, were several negro and mulatto families. The villages of Chester, -Bucket, and Lee, through which we passed, consist of but few houses; -Lee, however, appears to be a flourishing village. At this place we left -the mountains, and again entered upon a better cultivated region, in -which we observed stubbles of wheat and rye. - -Exceedingly fatigued in consequence of the great heat, and the number of -passengers in the stage-coach, I was anxious to procure a carriage in -order to visit New Lebanon, distant fourteen miles; but the person of -whom I inquired was so extortionate as to ask ten dollars. I determined, -in order to avoid a new yankee trick, to prosecute my journey in the -stage-coach, direct for Albany. At Canaan, thirteen miles distant, we -left the state of Massachusetts, and entered that of New York. The other -villages which we passed after our departure from Canaan, were Chatham, -six miles, Nassau, or Union Village, four miles, and Schoodie, five -miles. The distance from Springfield to Albany is eighty-one miles. The -above villages have a neat and comfortable appearance, and the fields -were in a good state of cultivation. Upon our arrival at Schoodie the -night was just setting in, but unfortunately we were lighted by a -burning house upon an eminence not far off. At the village of Greenbush, -near Albany, we crossed the Hudson or North river in a horse-boat, and -upon our arrival in the city took lodgings at Cruttenden's -boarding-house, on an eminence near the capitol or state-house. - -Albany contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is situated upon -the right bank of the Hudson, and extends westward upon an eminence. -It was built by the Dutch in 1614, under the name of Fort Orange, and -received its present name after it came into the possession of the -English, in honour of the afterwards unfortunate King James II. who was -then duke of York and Albany. Some of the Dutch houses are still -standing, and several of the streets retain their original names. - -At the tavern we met with a Mr. Jackson, from New York, who had arrived -at the same time, and who was accompanied by his sister and his son, -Columbus, a sensible lad about ten years of age. Mr. J. is a teacher. In -consequence of the vicinity to the Ballston, Saratoga, and New Lebanon -springs, and the fashionable season, the hotel was so full of strangers, -that I was obliged to sleep with Mr. Tromp, in a small chamber. On the -following morning, at the public breakfast, I again met with Mr. Jackson -and Columbus, and as he was acquainted in Albany, I accepted of his -invitation to take a walk through the city. It is old and in some parts -appears to be in a state of decay. During the late war with England it -was in a quite flourishing state; but since the peace it has suffered -considerably, in consequence of some heavy failures and a great fire. -Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expects -to reap the most happy results from the Erie Canal, which has been -lately established, and which commences here, and runs a distance of -three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie, as well as from the -canal from Lake Champlain. The pavements were so bad that I was obliged -to complain immediately upon our arrival, and this I was subsequently -forced to repeat; the streets were also very crooked. We visited several -bookstores, which appeared to be well furnished, and then took a walk to -the new basin, into which the canal empties. It is separated from the -Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the river, and is four thousand -feet long, from three to four hundred wide, and ten feet deep. The dam -is built of strong rafters, which form its two walls, the intervals of -which are filled up with earth and stone. It is connected with the bank -of the river by several high wooden bridges, in the centre of which -there are drawbridges for the passage of boats. The building of this dam -cost one hundred and thirty thousand dollars. It was divided into lots, -and sold separately, on condition that store-houses should be erected -upon it: in consequence of this they have realized the sum of one -hundred and ninety thousand dollars. In my opinion, the managers of the -canal, at whose expense the basin and the two canals have been built, -would have done better, if they had kept the dam and rented it. Being -built of wood, which is more or less subject to decay, as they are to -erect nothing but store-houses upon it, it is to be feared that in the -course of ten years it will tumble down in consequence of the pressure, -or that they will be obliged to repair it in great measure, or perhaps -completely rebuild it with stone. As stone is very cheap here, and sawed -in the prisons, they should have originally built the dam of stone. The -present one seems to me to have been but badly executed. In the basin we -saw a travelling bookstore in one of the canal-boats. Mr. Wilcox, who -established it about two years ago on the Erie Canal, travels backwards -and forwards several times a year, and is said to do considerable -business. He had just returned to get a new assortment of books. Most of -the books which he sells at the villages in the neighbourhood of the -canal are ancient authors, some medical and religious, and a few law -books and novels. This gentleman, formerly a merchant in Albany, -entirely supports his family, who reside with him in his boat, by this -fortunate speculation. I purchased of him an excellent map of the state -of New York. - -A few hours after, we visited some of the steam-boats which ply between -Albany and New York. The largest, called the Car of Commerce, is -provided with excellent apartments, and makes her trip in nineteen -hours. This vessel is extremely elegant, but my friend Tromp is of -opinion that the English steam-boats are superior in machinery. In fact, -in this country, the American steam-engines are not celebrated for the -safety of their boilers; and several explosions which have occurred, -serve to increase this evil report. From this reason, as well as on -account of the disagreeable motion of the steam-engine, many persons -were unwilling to risk their lives, so that they have attached a -safety-barge to one of the steam-boats. This is a real floating hotel, -furnished with the greatest luxury. In the ladies cabin there are even -silk curtains. Besides this, the ladies have a separate toilette and -parlour. The gentlemen assemble in the dining room. The whole boat is -surrounded by a piazza, which, in warm weather, must be extremely -pleasant. The name of this safety-barge which carries passengers at four -dollars, is Lady Clinton, in honour of the wife of the governor of New -York, De Witt Clinton. We also visited the Constellation, another -beautiful steam-boat, which has no safety-barge. There are also -steam-boats for the purpose of towing the common sloops, &c. up and down -the river, called steam-tow-boats. - -Finally, we examined the horse ferry-boats. These boats consist of two -vessels joined together, have a common deck, and are of an elliptical -form. Upon the centre of the deck is a round house, in which six horses -work, turning a horizontal, which moves two common wheels between the -boats, provided with paddles, as in the steam-boats. The carriage, and -twenty-two two-horse carts crossed at the same time, standing on both -sides of the round house. There are two rudders, one at the stern, the -other at the bow. - -The trade in timber and boards is one of the capital branches of -internal trade. We saw a great quantity of both on the wharves, and at -the dam. At dinner we became acquainted with the Spanish consul of -Boston, a worthy young man, who was educated in France. After dinner we -took a view of the capitol, or state-house, situated upon a small -eminence, and at a short distance from our inn. Albany is the seat of -government and the capitol of the state of New York, but it is said to -be the intention of the inhabitants shortly to remove the seat of -government to Utica, which is situated farther to the west, and in a -more central part of the state. The capitol is built of brown -sand-stone, and in a quadrangular form; in front it is ornamented with -large steps, and four Ionic columns of white marble. The halls of the -different branches of the legislature are spacious, but exhibit nothing -remarkable. In one of the halls is a full length portrait of Washington, -and in another, that of the late Governor Clinton, an uncle of the -present governor.[I-9] On the top of the capitol is a cupola, from which -there is a beautiful view of the city of Albany, and the valley of the -Hudson, which is bounded on the right by the Catskill mountains, and on -the left by the mountains of Vermont. On the dome is a wooden statue -representing justice, to the back of which is secured a heavy -lightning-rod, so that witlings remark that she is standing in the -pillory. - - [Footnote I-9: [Recently deceased.]--TRANS.] - -At Albany are some remains of the feudal system. The Van Rensselaer -family, one of the oldest of the Dutch emigrants, obtained the country -around Albany at the time it was first settled, as a fief; it was -divided into different portions, and some of these were leased to -vassals who were obliged to pay a certain rent, and to render certain -services to the owner. The eldest of the Van Rensselaer family has -always borne the title of _patroon_, and enjoys certain feudal -prerogatives, for which the family are indebted to the great popularity -they have enjoyed ever since the revolution, though every recollection -of the feudal system is repugnant to the genius of the American -government. By the people in the neighbourhood, the house of the old -General Van Rensselaer is always called the _manor of the patroon_. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - _Journey from Albany to the Falls of Niagara.-- Erie Canal.-- - Schenectady.-- Utica.-- Rochester.-- Buffalo.-- The Falls of - Niagara, from the 14th to the 25th of August, 1825._ - - -On the morning of the 14th of August, we took passage on board the -Albany, one of the canal packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This canal was -built at an expense of $2,500,000, and will be completed in about four -weeks: at present, they are at work only on the western part of it. -During the preceding year, they received an income of $300,000, and they -expect, during the present year, after the canal shall have been -completed, an income of $500,000, so that the expenses will, in a very -short time, be replaced, and the state realize an immense profit, unless -it be necessary to make great repairs, which I have no doubt will be the -case, and will consequently require a large share of this income. -Hitherto the great canal system was unknown in the United States, and -was rather unpopular. It might have been expected, therefore, that so -great and rapid an undertaking, would have a tendency to astound, if we -may so speak, the public mind; so that this canal was finished as soon -as possible, without calling to aid the great experience possessed by -other nations. Notwithstanding, this canal, which is three hundred and -sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three locks, between the Hudson -and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred and eighty-eight feet above the -level of the former river, does the greatest honour to the genius of its -projector; though one who has seen the canals in France, Holland, and -England, will readily perceive, that the water-works of this country -afford much room for improvement. The canal is thirty-five feet wide on -the surface, twenty-eight feet at the bottom, and four feet deep, so -that none but flat vessels and rafts can sail on it. The packet-boat -which took us to Schenectady, was seventy feet long, fourteen feet wide, -and drew two feet water. It was covered, and contained a spacious cabin, -with a kitchen, and was very neatly arranged. On account of the great -number of locks, the progress of our journey was but slow: our -packet-boat went only at the rate of three miles an hour, being detained -at each lock, on an average, four minutes. The locks are fourteen feet -wide above the surface, and have a fall from seven to twelve feet. The -packet-boat was drawn by three horses, which walked upon a narrow -tow-path leading along the canal, and beneath the numerous bridges which -are thrown over it. These bridges, of which there are about three -hundred between Albany and Utica, are all built of wood, and in a very -awkward style; most of them belong to the farmers, and are intended to -serve as a means of communication between their fields. The distance -from Albany to Schenectady, by land, is only fifteen miles, and persons -are enabled to travel it in a very short time in the stage-coach; but as -we were anxious to see the canal, and get leisure to complete our -journals, we preferred going by water, twenty-eight miles. - -At Troy, five miles and a half from Albany, is the government arsenal, -which appears to be a large establishment. As far as this place, the -canal runs nearly parallel with the Hudson. Troy, which is very -pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of -several tolerably high mountains, one of which is called Mount Ida, -appears, if we may be permitted to judge from the large store-houses and -the good appearance of the dwellings, to be a wealthy place. Here is a -branch canal which has two locks, and establishes a communication with -Troy. Shortly after, we arrived at a place where there are no less than -nine locks, with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the -right of this, is another canal, which unites with the Hudson and the -canal from Lake Champlain. At this place we left the Hudson and directed -our course along the Mohawk river. During our ride we observed a covered -wooden bridge, which extends over the latter river, a short distance -from its mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by -fifteen wooden piers. Here we saw the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk -river, seventy-eight feet in height and about four hundred feet wide. In -the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of the Mohawk, -they are said to be extremely magnificent; during the present dry -weather, they presented a very handsome appearance, though they were -very small. The river was almost completely dried up. I walked over its -bed, which consists of slate rock, as far as its middle and near to the -falls. In some places the rocks are excavated by the action of the -water, and you may see holes which are full of water and are said to -contain excellent fish. Finding great difficulty in continuing the canal -on the right bank of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to -the opposite side by means of an aqueduct-bridge, one thousand one -hundred and eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is of wood, and is -supported by twenty-six stone columns, on account of which, they have -placed a _chevaux-de-frise_, to keep off the ice in the river about one -hundred yards off. The part of this wooden canal, which contains the -water, is about twenty feet wide and has a tow-path eight feet wide on -one side. These wooden aqueducts will probably soon require repairing, -and there is no doubt but that they will ultimately be obliged to build -them of iron. The canal is cut through the rocks, almost the whole -distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, and presents -a very handsome appearance. Twelve miles farther on, it returns again to -the right bank of the Mohawk by a similar aqueduct, seven hundred and -forty-eight feet in length and supported by sixteen piers. Above this -aqueduct, which is also protected by a _chevaux-de-frise_, there is a -common wooden bridge thrown over the river, for wagons. Four miles -farther on is Schenectady, where we arrived after sunset. Between this -town and Albany, we passed no less than twenty-seven locks. These, -though they are built of solid lime-stone, will soon require repairing, -as the water passes through them in various places. The gates also lock -badly, so that the water which percolates forms artificial cascades. The -country through which we passed to-day was generally wild and hilly, and -somewhat thinly settled. - -Schenectady is an old town containing about five thousand inhabitants, -and is intersected by the canal. At this place we left the packet-boat, -in order to proceed to Utica next morning in another boat, and found -excellent lodgings at Given's hotel, which, after the great heat we had -endured during the day, was exceedingly agreeable. Its inhabitants are, -in part, descendants of the Lower Saxons, and some of them whom I saw at -the tavern conversed with me in bad Dutch. Early on the next morning we -walked through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of -two large buildings situated a short distance from the town upon a -little eminence. It was the time of vacation, and consequently it was -perfectly silent. From its decaying appearance, I should judge the -college was not in a very prosperous condition. From this building you -have a beautiful view of the town, and of the Mohawk valley, which -appears here to be well settled. In the town we observed a peculiar -windmill, with a horizontal wheel, whose sails, about twenty in number, -stand perpendicularly. - -We left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat Samuel -Young, which had engaged to take us to Utica, eighty miles distant, by -an early hour the next day. It was a large boat, and, as the passengers -are obliged to spend the night on board, is provided with separate -apartments for the ladies. The canal again ran along the well-cultivated -valley of the Mohawk, and the country, on account of the foliage of the -trees upon the heights was beautiful. The village of Amsterdam consists -of a few neat houses; and opposite, on the right bank of the Mohawk, is -Rotterdam. On our way we passed several small aqueducts, the longest of -which rest only upon three piers, and extend over small brooks, which, -as well as the small rivulets, are distinguished by the Indian -appellation of "creek." The canal is carried over two rivers, called -Schoharie and Canajoharie creeks, from which it receives the most of its -water. At this place the horses are conveyed to the opposite side of the -two rivers by means of ferry-boats. At the first ferry is a small -village, called Fort Hunter, where, before the revolution, there had -been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening we -passed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains, one of -which is called Anthony's Nose. The houses we saw on our route, had -generally a handsome appearance; to-day and yesterday I observed also -some saw-mills. There are twenty-six locks between Schenectady and -Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and our company was very numerous. -I confined myself to writing, the whole day, as much as possible; but, -in consequence of the heat, I could not avoid sleeping. In the evening -we fortunately had a thunder-storm, which cooled the air. During the -night, as there was a want of births, the beds were placed upon benches, -and, as I was the tallest person, mine was put in the centre upon the -longest bench, with a chair as a supplement. It had the appearance of a -hereditary sepulchre, in the centre of which I lay as father of the -family. I spent an uncomfortable night, on account of my constrained -posture, the insects which annoyed me, and the steersman, who always -played an agreeable tune upon his bugle whenever he approached a lock. -During the night we passed an aqueduct bridge, which stands over a -solace, called Little Falls. Towards morning we passed through a -well-cultivated region, with some neat houses, called German flats, and -which was settled by some Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At -about twelve o'clock at noon we arrived at Utica, nine miles from the -place where we passed a lock, which is the last that occurs in the next -seventy miles. The land appeared to be marshy, and consisted of sand and -pebbles. - -Utica, which is intersected by the canal, is a flourishing town, of -about four thousand inhabitants, and stands upon the site where Fort -Schuyler, a redoubt against the Indians, was formerly situated. In 1794, -there was a small tavern here, which was the only dwelling house in this -part of the country; but at present Utica is one of the most flourishing -towns in the state of New York, and new houses are continually building. -In fact, it is only here that a person begins to admire the great -improvements in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works -of man, and of his enterprising genius! Utica, on the right bank of the -Mohawk, has two banks, four churches, an academy, and large and -convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing-office. It has also several -ale-houses, and three fine taverns, at the largest of which, called -Shepherd's hotel, we found excellent accommodations. In this house there -are always more than seventy beds for the accommodation of strangers; -and these, on some occasions, are barely sufficient. The number of -travellers this summer, is said to have been unusually great, especially -from the southern states, where the heat is intolerable, and the summers -generally unhealthy. In such an American tavern every thing is perfectly -comfortable, and proportionably cheap. The price for board and lodging -is a dollar a day. The bell for rising rings before seven o'clock in the -morning. The bed-chambers are spacious, the beds wide and comfortable, -and the linen fine and perfectly clean. The bed-chambers, moreover, are -furnished with the necessary wash-stands, &c. After a person is dressed, -he enters the bar-room, where he finds all kinds of strong and -refreshing drinks; the desk of the head waiter is also here, who attends -to the bill. The inn-keeper is generally a gentleman, who eats with the -guests, and leads the conversation. Besides the entry, where the boots -and shoes are left in the evening, and where they are found well cleaned -in the morning, there are several sitting, reading, and writing -parlours, &c. And if a person wishes a separate sitting-room, especially -when he travels with ladies, it may be readily had at a separate charge. -Half an hour after rising, they ring the bell for breakfast; and, upon -going to the dining-room, you find upon a covered table, beef-steaks, -mutton, broiled chicken, or other fowls, fish, and boiled potatoes, -which are of a very superior quality. The waiters, or in many places, -the servant-maids, hand the coffee and tea. As the Americans, in -general, are a quiet people, such a breakfast, which is eaten in great -haste, is attended with but little noise. Dinner is generally served at -about two o'clock, and tea at seven in the evening. At tea, the table is -again furnished as at breakfast, with the addition of ragouts and -baker's bread. Nobody is obliged to drink wine. There are usually water -and whiskey on the table, which are mixed in the summer, as the most -healthy drink. Every one must help himself as well as he can, for the -victuals are not handed about. Napkins you do not get, and instead, you -are obliged to make use of the table-cloth. With the exception of the -spoons, there is no silver on the table; the forks have two steel -prongs, and their handles, like those of the knives, are of buck's horn. -It is an excellent rule, that no one on departing is obliged to give -money to the servants. - -At Utica, seven of us for nine dollars hired a stage to visit the Falls -of Trenton, distant fourteen miles. Our passengers were partly from New -York, and partly from the state of North Carolina. We crossed the Mohawk -upon a covered wooden bridge, built in a bad and awkward manner, on -which I observed an advertisement, "that all persons who pass this -bridge on horseback or wagon faster than a walk, shall be fined one -dollar." After this, our road gradually ascended to a forest, which was, -however, in part cleared for new fields. The timber is so much neglected -here, that they will very probably feel the want of it in less than -fifty years. At a short distance from the falls of West Canada Creek is -a new tavern, which is situated in a lately cleared forest, and is built -entirely of wood. At this tavern we left the carriage, and went on foot -through thick woods, from which a pair of stairs conduct to the falls. -A new pair of wooden stairs of about eighty steps, built for the -accommodation of strangers, leads to the bed of the river. This consists -entirely of slate-rock, is about two hundred feet wide, and is enclosed -between high rocky banks, which are lined by beautiful and lofty firs, -_arbor vitae_, the maple, the elm, and the cedar. This beautiful mass of -green, the azure sky, the large and variegated rocks, and the three -falls, produce a most happy effect. The rocks at these falls, which, on -account of the great heat, scarcely extended over half the river, are so -excavated by the water, that they have the form of a common kettle. The -upper falls, which are about ninety feet high, are the grandest; and -near them, under the shade of an _arbor vitae_, an adventurer has -established a small tavern, which presents a very picturesque -appearance, and is said to yield considerable profit. The rocks contain -handsome petrifactions of shells, plants, and animals; and we saw one -specimen a foot and a half long, which resembled a young alligator; of -the smaller ones we took several specimens. At the tavern where we had -put up, we found a tolerably good dinner, and towards evening returned -to Utica. The day was fine and pleasant. The thunder-storm of yesterday, -had done some good. I regretted that it was too late upon our return to -Utica, to visit a hydrostatic lock, designed to weigh the boats which -pass on the canal. - -Having seen enough of the canal, and being anxious to see the -newly-settled country between this place and Niagara, we determined to -continue our journey on the next day in the stage-coach. With this -intention we left Utica at 4 o'clock in the morning of the 17th of -August, and the same day arrived at Auburn, distant seventy-three miles. -The stage-coaches in this country do not, as in England, travel ten -miles an hour, but usually six; as the country is generally hilly, and -the coach, when it carries the mail, stops at every village where there -is a post-office, on account of the great number of newspapers; the -letter-bag must be taken out, opened, again locked, and then returned; -the coachmen also are not very punctual, so that travelling is not so -rapid as it should be. The villages between Utica and Auburn were New -Hartford, four miles, Manchester, five miles, Vernon, eight miles, -Oneida, five miles, Lenox, four miles, Sullivan, eight miles, Manlius, -six miles, Jamesville, five miles, Onandago Hollow, five miles, Onandago -Hill, two miles, Marcellus, eight miles, and Skeneatelass, six miles. - -Between Manchester and Vernon day dawned, and we found ourselves in a -rather wild country, in the midst of a wilderness. Oneida is an Indian -settlement, and was built by the remnant of the once mighty Oneida -tribe, who, unlike their countrymen, unwilling to fly before the white -settlers to the west, are at present a wretched people, despised and -oppressed by their neighbours like a gang of gypsies. They have been -obliged to learn trades, and to labour on farms; they have also been -converted to Christianity by means of missionaries, and of whom the -principal one is a Mr. Williams, a converted Indian, educated by the -Quakers. On entering the village we observed on a little eminence to the -left, a small, neat, frame church, where the Indians hold their service, -and close by, an open plain, surrounded by butternut trees, called -"Council Grove" where the elders of the tribe assemble to deliberate on -their most important affairs. The houses of the Indians are scattered -through the fields, are generally small, and built of logs. In the -centre of the village are white settlers, mechanics and tavern-keepers; -the latter of whom in particular make out well, as the Indians are fond -of strong drink. The land belongs to the whole tribe, and each -individual labours for the common good. We observed several Indians -along the road. They had a tawny complexion, and black hair; the men -appeared to be well built, and the women were stout, and resemble the -pictures of Esquimaux women in Parry's Travels. Some of them wore their -hair down, which, if possible, increased their ugliness. Both the men -and women wear trowsers, generally of blue, and ornamented with white -lace; sometimes also of two colours, like the prisoners at Boston. The -men wear shirts over their trowsers, and great-coats of cloth. The women -dress in white or blue woollen mantles. At first, I thought myself in -civilized Europe, for a great number of children came along the carriage -to beg, a circumstance which had not occurred since my arrival in the -United States. It was soon ascertained, however, that they were Indian -children, dressed somewhat like their parents, and of the same -complexion. The girls had brass buckles on their cloaks, which fastened -in front, and most of them wore large bead necklaces. - -Behind this village the road led along a considerable hill, from which -we had a beautiful view of Oneida Lake, which presented the appearance -of a large stream. Here you have a number of extensive prospects, which, -however, as you see but little cultivated land and few houses, is rather -uniform. Farther on we saw a small lake called Salt Lake, which is in -the midst of a forest, and has on its banks three picturesquely situated -towns, Liverpool, Salina, and Syracuse. At Salina are rich salt springs, -the water of which is collected in reservoirs, and it is evaporated by -the heat of the sun to procure the salt. Beyond Sullivan we passed -through the village of Chitteningo. It contains several mills, a cotton -factory, and a branch of the Erie Canal, which forms a kind of harbour, -and serves as a landing place for articles manufactured here, and for -the plaster and lime which are procured in the neighbourhood. This lime -becomes hard under water, so that it is excellently adapted to -waterworks. We dined at Manlius, a new village, containing two churches. -Besides the usual stage-coach there were two others to-day, all full of -passengers. In our own we had for a short distance a farmer, -a descendant of a German emigrant, who spoke the language that was used -in Germany about a hundred years ago. He thought my German was too high, -and that I spoke it like a parson. From the canal which forms an angle -here, we drove in a southerly direction, in order to keep on the plains, -as the main road, which is nearer, leads over a hill. The two Onondago -villages appear to be flourishing manufacturing places, and are -pleasantly situated. Marcellus is also a new village and has two -churches. Most of the small villages have two churches, an Episcopal and -a Presbyterian. In each of them, and even at the Indian village, there -is a school. In several of the villages also I had the pleasure of -seeing bookstores. Beyond Marcellus the night unfortunately closed in, -which prevented me from seeing Skeneatelass Lake, as well as the town of -the same name, which is said to be extremely pleasantly situated on one -of its banks. About nine o'clock in the evening we arrived at Auburn, -and found good accommodations at one of the public houses. This town -contains upwards of one hundred and fifty houses, a court-house and -penitentiary, which is said to be managed in a very excellent manner. To -my regret I saw none of them; for at four o'clock the next morning, 18th -of August, we set out in the stage-coach for Rochester, distant -sixty-nine miles. The villages which we passed on our route were, -Cayuga, nine miles, Seneca Falls, three miles, Waterloo, five miles, -Geneva, six miles, Canandaigua, sixteen miles, Mendon, fifteen miles, -Pittsford, seven miles, from which latter it was yet eight miles to -Rochester. - -It was just daylight as we arrived in the vicinity of Cayuga, on the -lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles long, and from one to -three wide. This lake empties into the Seneca river, which afterwards -unites with the Mohawk. We crossed the lake not far from its mouth, on a -wooden bridge, one mile in length, eighteen yards wide, and built in a -very rough and careless manner: the planks are loose and the -_chevaux-de-frise_ is in a bad condition. On the opposite side of the -lake is a large toll-house. At a short distance from this we arrived at -Seneca Falls, so called in consequence of the little falls of the Seneca -river, which are close by, and are chiefly formed by a mill-dam. At the -tavern we met an Indian and his wife, of the Oneida tribe, who were -going on a visit to the Senecas. We conversed with the man, who had been -at school, and understood English. He told us that he had been raised by -a Quaker missionary, and that he was a farmer, and concluded by asking -for a little money, which he probably spent with his ugly wife at the -next grog-shop. - -All the villages through which we passed are quite new, and in many -places we passed through primitive forests, which, in some places, they -are just beginning to clear. At Waterloo the first house was erected in -1816, and at present it has two churches and about three thousand -inhabitants. Several of the houses are built of brick, and contain well -furnished stores. At the tavern we saw a large, beautiful young eagle, -which had been caught in his nest and tamed. The country beyond Waterloo -was boggy, and the road in some places made of large logs, so that we -were very disagreeably jolted. Geneva is situated at the north point of -Seneca Lake, which is between fifty and sixty miles long and about five -wide. The town derives its name from its similarity of situation to -Geneva in Switzerland. It is also quite new, and contains about four -thousand inhabitants. It has two churches and several large stone and -brick houses, of which the Franklin Hotel, situated on the bank of the -lake, is the most spacious and beautiful. I went into a bookstore to -ascertain what kind of books were most sold in this part of the country, -and was told that the ancient classics and religious books found the -most ready sale; sometimes also novels, law and medical works. The -college is said to have several hundred students. In front of the town -along the lake, there are beautiful country seats and gardens. On the -other side of the town the woods are but a short distance from the -houses, and are as yet not much cleared. We saw, however, several tracts -of timber on fire; the trees are burnt in order to clear the land. - -Canandaigua, which lies on the north point of the lake of the same name, -which is about twenty miles long, is an extremely beautiful and pleasant -town, that has been but lately settled. The Duke de la Rochefoucault -says, that during his travels in America, in 1790, there was but a -single house on this lake, in which he spent the night, in a garret used -as a store-room. Now it is a beautiful commercial town, having one bank, -a court-house, and a very superior tavern. The court was sitting, and -there was a large collection of people, so that the town exhibited a -very lively appearance. At this place the road separates, the left goes -through Batavia and several small villages to Buffalo on Lake Erie; the -right, to Rochester, and thence to Lake Ontario and the Falls of -Niagara: and as this road again approaches the Erie canal, it is said to -be the most interesting. On this account we gave it the preference, -although the longest route. - -We left Canandaigua in the afternoon, and rode through Victor, Mendon, -and Pittsford, to Rochester. On this route we observed nothing -particularly interesting, excepting several new settlements; the -inhabitants of which resided in log-houses, which had a peculiar, but by -no means an unpleasant aspect. I was particularly pleased with the neat -and decent appearance of the inhabitants. - -We arrived at Rochester at half past eight o'clock in the evening, and -took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern. We crossed the Genesee river, which -divides Rochester into two parts, on a wooden bridge, the first that we -had hitherto met in the United States that was built firmly and -properly. It rests upon stone piers, and is made of solid beams, with -thick and well fastened planks. The next morning we walked through the -town, and were pleased with its rapid increase. In 1812, there was not a -single house here; nothing but a wilderness; and the land could be -purchased at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. At present, -Rochester is one of the most flourishing towns in the state of New York. -It contains four churches, one bank, a court-house, and about four -thousand inhabitants. Many of the houses are built of blue limestone, -and of brick. The town contains several mills and manufactories; and -amongst others, a nail factory, in which the nails are made with a -machine, as in Birmingham. They also manufacture rifle-guns, which are -very long and heavy. On the right bank of the Genesee river, the houses -are not so numerous as on the left, and there are yet many frame, and -even some log-houses: in the place where, probably in a short time, -handsome wharves will be built, there may yet be seen stumps of trees--a -truly interesting sight to those who observe the progress of this -country. The basements of the houses are generally built of rough -sand-stone; their corners, doors, and windows, of a kind of white -marble-like sand-stone, and the rest of brick. The white sand-stone is -procured in the neighbourhood, and is cut into slabs at a saw-mill on -the Genesee river. I saw three of these blocks sawed; and in one frame I -observed no less than five saws. Several hundred yards below the bridge -the Genesee river is about two hundred yards wide, and has a fall of -ninety-five feet, which at present, however, did not appear to much -advantage. Above the falls is a race which conducts the water to several -mills, and it again flows into the river below the falls, where it forms -three beautiful cascades, which reminded me of the Villa di Maecen, at -Tivoli. - -At Rochester the Erie canal is carried over the Genesee river by a stone -aqueduct bridge, and resembles that of the Bridgewater canal at -Manchester, in England. This aqueduct, which is about one thousand yards -above the falls, rests upon a base of slate rock, and is seven hundred -and eighty feet long. A work which has been lately published, called the -"Northern Tour," gives the following description of it: "The aqueduct -consists of eleven broad arches, built in the form of circular segments, -the tops of which are raised eleven feet above the level of the arches, -and fifteen feet above that of the water in the river. The two exterior -arches have an extent of forty feet each, and beneath them are the -streams which turn the mills; the other nine each fifty feet wide, &c." -Upon one of its sides is a tow-path secured by iron railings. The whole -is a solid work, and does much credit to its architect, Benjamin Wright. - -We left Rochester at nine o'clock, on board the canal packet-boat Ohio, -Captain Storch. The canal, between Lockport and Rochester, runs a -distance of sixty-three miles, through a tolerably level country, and -north of the Rochester ridge. This ridge consists of a series of rocks, -which form the chain of the mountains which commences north of Lake -Erie, stretches eastward to the Niagara river, confines it, and forms -its falls, then continues its course, and forms the different falls -which are north of Lake Ontario, and is at length lost in the -neighbourhood of the Hudson. It has only been within the last year that -this part of the canal has been passable; its course is through dense -sombre forests, in which are but few settlements, such as Spencer's -Basin, Bates, and Brickport. The bridges are better and higher than -those we have mentioned in the preceding pages. Amongst our passengers, -was a Mr. Bosch, a Dutch clergyman from Curacao, and the Rev. Messrs. -Sluiter and Wykoff, from New York. These gentlemen, being of Dutch -descent, the conversation was generally carried on in their native -tongue. Captain Storch also, who is a native of Amsterdam, and a Jew by -birth, who has travelled extensively, made the time pass very -pleasantly, by his lively disposition, and his agreeable conversation. -Both before and after dinner, as well as at tea, the two clergymen from -New York, asked a blessing; and before we retired to bed, one of them -read several chapters in the Bible, and then made a long prayer. - -We reached Lockport on the 20th of August, about 7 o'clock in the -morning. At this place the canal is carried over the ridge by five large -locks, through which the water is raised to the height of seventy-six -feet. The locks are ten in number, being arranged in two parallel rows, -so that while the boats ascend in one row, they may descend at the same -time in the other. Through this arrangement the navigation is greatly -facilitated, and the whole work, hewn through and surrounded by large -rocks, presents an imposing aspect. - -Lockport, to which we repaired, while the boat was left in the basin at -the foot of the locks, is an extremely interesting place, and is -situated just above the locks. In May, 1821, it consisted of two -log-houses; at present it contains not less than six hundred, some of -which are stone houses: it contains a post-office, one printing-office, -which issues a weekly paper, and two churches. Though at present -Lockport appears perfectly wild, yet this appearance will no doubt -vanish in the course of four or five years, so that it will present as -splendid an appearance as Canandaigua and Rochester. On our arrival, the -canal was still unfinished for about five miles; but it was supposed -that the whole would be completed before the close of the year. They -were obliged to cut it through solid rock, generally about thirty feet -deep, for a distance of more than three miles. This was mostly effected -by blasting. Several hundred Irishmen were at work. They reside in log -huts, built along the canal. They make much money; but they suffer also -severely in consequence of the unhealthy climate, especially from -fevers, which not unfrequently prove fatal. The stone, which is -quarried, is employed in building houses, and in making turnpikes. In -breaking the rocks they often find beautiful petrifactions, and other -remarkable minerals; for example, _strontian_, and beautiful transparent -_gypsum_. I saw a large petrified tree, and a handsome petrified -_sea-coral_. - -At Lockport we took a dearborn for Buffalo, where we were anxious to go, -in order to see the union of the canal with Lake Erie. Though a good -stage runs between Lockport and the Falls of Niagara, we went in this -bad vehicle five miles, to the navigable part of the canal. The road led -through the forest, the trees of which had been felled along the canal, -and passed over the stumps, so that it was uncommonly rough, especially -as it had rained the day before. Arrived at length at the navigable part -of the canal, we took passage on board a rather bad boat, where nothing -was to be had but the common cordial, whiskey. The village where we went -on board, is called Cottensburgh, and is quite a new settlement. At this -place also the canal is cut through rocks to the depth of about thirty -feet. About two or three miles farther on, it terminates in the -Tonnawanta Creek, which serves as a canal for twelve miles. This creek -has scarcely any outlet, so that when it rises much, they are obliged to -protect the canal by means of safety-locks near its union with the -creek. At the outlet of the creek into the Niagara is a sluice for the -purpose of keeping the water always at a certain height. The creek -itself is about fifty yards wide, and runs through a dense and beautiful -forest, which has never been touched by the axe, except along the canal, -where they have been obliged to make a tow-path. I sat in the bow of the -boat during the whole passage. Nothing interrupted the solemn silence, -except the chattering of the boatmen's teeth, who are often severely -affected in this unhealthy part of the country, with the intermittent -fever. Another small river, called Eleven-mile Creek, unites with the -main river, and not far from this junction was the site for the new town -of Tonnawanta. A few small houses and a saw-mill were already erected; -the inhabitants appeared also to suffer much from the intermittent -fever. Here the Tonnawanta Creek, unites with the Niagara, where the -sluice which we have just mentioned leads off. At this place also we had -the first view of the Niagara river, which conveys the waters of Lake -Erie into Lake Ontario, from the other extremity of which flows the St. -Lawrence. In the river we observed Grand Island, which contains about -one thousand one hundred acres, is overgrown with timber, and belongs to -a New York editor, Moses Mordecai Noah, a Jew, who purchased it for the -purpose of establishing a Jewish colony. The soil is very good; during -the late war between England and the United States, the Niagara, it is -well known, formed the boundary line between them and the British -provinces of Upper Canada, and this island bore testimony of the bloody -conflict. From this place, the canal runs along the bank of the Niagara, -from which it is separated only by a small bank, built rather -carelessly, and several feet above the level of the river, which is -already somewhat rapid on account of its vicinity to the falls. On the -Tonnawanta Creek we saw several canoes which were made by excavating the -trunks of trees. From Tonnawanta to Buffalo it is eight miles, five of -which we travelled on the canal as far as Black Rock. A basin is formed -here by means of a dam situated near Squaw Island, on which is a lock -communicating with the Niagara. The whole of this work is of wood, and -cannot therefore be expected to be very durable. In the basin lay the -new steam-boat Henry Clay, of three hundred tons, intended for running -on Lake Erie. We had here the first view of the lake, whose shore -appeared to be overgrown with wood. The other shore of course we could -not see, and it seemed therefore as though we were looking into an -expanded sea. The canal to Buffalo not being completed, we again took -stage at Black Rock, and rode three miles to the former town, where we -arrived at about 5 o'clock at evening, and took lodgings at the Mansion -House, pleasantly situated on a little eminence in the lake. - -Buffalo was burnt during the late war, by the British, but it has arisen -from its ashes with increased beauty. The town contains about five -thousand inhabitants, and will, in consequence of its situation near the -mouth of the canal and its harbour, at which they are hard at work, soon -become an important place. At the entrance of the harbour is a -light-house, and on the lake we observed several schooners of about -three hundred tons. A steam-boat, called the Superior, was ready to -start with fifty passengers to Erie, and thence to Detroit. In the -streets, we saw some tolerably well-dressed Indians of the Seneca tribe, -who have their wigwam three miles distant. Amongst them were several -women, who indeed, but for their complexion, might have been considered -handsome. We also had an amusing military spectacle. It consisted of a -militia parade, consisting of thirty men, including seven officers and -two cornets. They were formed, like a battalion, into six divisions, and -performed a number of manoeuvres. The members were not all provided with -muskets, but had ramrods instead. Only the officers and the -rifle-company, four men strong, were in uniform. The band consisted of -sixteen men, and was commanded by an officer with a colonel's epaulets -and drawn sword! - -On the following day, 21st of August, we left Buffalo for the small -village of Manchester, twenty-three miles distant, and situated on the -right bank of the Niagara, near the falls. As far as the village of -Tonnawanta the road passed along the canal. It was in a very bad -condition, cut through the forest, and no pains have been taken to -remove the trees, which are thrown on the road side, and the most -beautiful trunks are permitted to spoil in a pitiable manner. On the -left we had a view of the river and of Grand-Island, thickly studded -with timber. The river is more than one mile wide below the island. On -the Canada side is the village of Chippewa. From this place, a distance -of three miles, we could already see the rising vapours of the falls. -The water, however, indicated no signs of the approach to the precipice. -It is only a short distance from Manchester, where you perceive the -lofty trees on Goat-Island with its heights, situated in the midst of -the falls, that the river becomes rocky, and the rapids commence; these -form a number of small falls, which are nearly a mile long and the same -in breadth, running as far as where the two great falls are separated by -Goat-Island. - -At Manchester, we took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern, and hastened -immediately to the Falls: our steps were guided by their mighty roaring. -In a few moments we stood near the precipice, and saw before us the -immense mass of water which rushes with a tremendous noise into the -frightful abyss below. It is impossible to describe the scene, and the -pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings of -insignificance and grandeur which agitate the human breast at the sight -of this stupendous work of nature! We can only gaze, admire, and adore. -The rocks on both sides are perpendicular, but there is a wooden -staircase which leads to the bed of the river. We descended, but in -consequence of the drizzly rain which is produced by the foam of the -water, we had by no means so fine a prospect from below as we -anticipated. On this account, therefore, we soon ascended and satisfied -ourselves by looking from above upon this sublime and majestic sight. As -we returned, full of these mighty impressions, to the Eagle Tavern we -found to our great joy a fine opportunity of speaking of the grandeur -and magnificence we had just beheld. Lieutenants De Goer and Van Vloten, -of the Pallas, had just arrived to render homage to this great natural -curiosity. - -In company with these gentlemen we took a walk to Goat-Island, by a -convenient wooden bridge, thrown over the rapids about seven years -since. The first bridge leads to a small island called Bath-Island, -which contains a bath-house and billiard-room: the second to -Goat-Island, which is about one mile in circumference, and overgrown -with old and beautiful trees. The Indians who formerly resided in this -part of the country, considered the island as sacred. They used to say -that the _Great Manito_ or _Great Spirit_ inhabited it. And in fact, how -could the Great Spirit manifest himself more irresistibly than in the -destructive might of the tremendous Falls? - -On Bath-Island a person may approach so near to the American falls as to -look into the abyss below. The animals in the neighbourhood are so -careless of this, that the cows and horses go into the river to drink -within five yards of the brink of the precipice. From the foot of the -falls you can see nothing of the abyss, inasmuch as every thing is -concealed by the foam and vapour. On Goat-Island a person may in the -same manner approach the Canadian falls, in the centre of which is a -semicircular hollow, called the Horse-shoe, and here the noise is still -more tremendous than on the other side. The vapour which rises from the -Horse-shoe forms a thick mist, which may be seen at a great distance. To -look into the Horse-shoe is awful and horrible. Nor can this be done but -at the instant when the vapour is somewhat dissipated. You stand like a -petrified being. The level of Lake Erie is said to be five hundred and -sixty-four feet above that of the sea, and three hundred and thirty-four -feet above the waters of Lake Ontario. Lake Ontario is consequently two -hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. From Lake Erie to -the rapids the water has a fall of fifteen feet, in the rapids -fifty-seven feet, and according to a recent measurement, the falls on -the American side are one hundred and sixty-two feet high. From this -place to Lewistown the river has a fall of one hundred and four feet, -and thence to Lake Ontario, of two feet. - -The next morning, 22d of August, we made another visit to Goat-Island. -We afterwards descended the stairs to the river, which we crossed in a -small boat, at a short distance from both falls. The bed of the river is -said to be here two hundred and forty-six feet deep. The current passes -beneath the surface of the water, and does not again become visible till -after a distance of three miles. On the Canada side you have a much -better view of the falls than on the American, for you see both falls at -the same time. There is on the Canada side a covered wooden staircase, -which we ascended, and approached the falls, amidst a constant drizzling -caused by the falling water. The sun threw his rays upon the thick mist -and formed a beautiful rainbow. Another winding staircase leads down the -rocks near the falls, under which you may walk to the distance of one -hundred and twenty feet; several of the gentlemen present went in, but -according to their report they could not see any thing. I was contented -therefore to behold the falls from Table rock, which almost overhangs -them. A part of this rock gave way several years ago and fell down the -precipice, and the remaining part is so much undermined by the water -that it will probably soon follow. The whole distance from the American -to the British shore is fourteen hundred yards, of which three hundred -and eighty belong to the American falls, three hundred and thirty to -Goat-Island, and seven hundred yards to the Canada or Horse-shoe falls. -On the British side, opposite to the falls are two taverns, in the -larger of which, Forsyth's Hotel, we took lodgings until the next day, -when we intended to pay a visit to the governor of Upper Canada, Sir -Peregrine Maitland, who resides at his country seat within a few miles -of the falls. During the late war a bridge was thrown over the river -about one mile above this tavern, which, together with a mill, was burnt -by the Americans on their retreat from the battle of Lundy's Lane. A few -years ago a burning spring was discovered here, several of which are -said to occur in different parts of the United States. It is surrounded -by a cask, and contains a cold water of a blackish, slimy appearance, -and of a sulphurous taste. Within this cask is a small vessel which is -open at the bottom, and has a pipe at its upper end. If a lighted candle -be held within a foot of the mouth of this pipe, it will instantly -produce a strong flame, similar to a gas-light. If the vessel be taken -out, and the candle be held over the surface of the water, it will -produce the same effect, but the flame will soon disappear. In the -neighbourhood of Forsyth's Hotel is the only point from which you have a -full view of both falls at the same time, which, however, is often -interrupted by the ascending vapour. - -On our return to the American shore, we examined a _camera obscura_ -which is situated at the head of the American staircase, and was built -by a Swiss. This gives a tolerably good view of the falls. Afterwards we -took a ride to the Whirlpool, which is three miles down the Niagara, and -is formed by a kind of rocky basin where the river runs between narrow -rocky banks. It is singular to see this confusion of the water, whose -appearance cannot be better described than by comparing it with the -flowing of melted lead. The lofty rocks which form the banks of this -river, are beautifully covered with wood and present a stately, majestic -appearance. In the evening I again went to Goat-Island in order to view -the falls by bright moonlight: in this light they produce a very -peculiarly beautiful effect, which is greatly heightened by a -moon-rainbow. - -The following day, 23d August, all our company departed; my friend Tromp -and myself alone remained. We went to the other side of the river, and -took lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel, where we found Sir Michael and Lady -Clare, from Jamaica, where Sir Michael is a member of parliament: he was -making a tour of pleasure, with his lady, through the United States. -I also became acquainted with a Mr. Grymes, of Virginia, who was -formerly attorney general of the state of Louisiana, and is married to -the widow of the late Governor Claiborne, a beautiful and wealthy -creole. As this family were also going on a tour to Canada, I hoped to -travel with them. Mrs. Grymes spoke French, a circumstance which was -exceedingly agreeable on account of the facility with which I could -converse with her. I also found the son and adjutant of the governor, -Sir Peregrine Maitland, who had been sent by his father, to await my -arrival. In a short time after, this worthy general came himself to pay -me a visit, and offer me a room in his cottage, four miles off. This I -refused, but on the evening of the following day, I rode to Sir -Peregrine's in company with Sir Michael and Lady Clare. The road went -over the battle-ground at Lundy's Lane, (25th July, 1814,) which is -situated upon a gentle eminence, and through the beautiful village of -Stamford. The fields here are much better cultivated than in the United -States, and there is not so much waste of timber. The clearing is done -with much more order and regularity. Sir Peregrine resides at his -cottage, in summer, which was built by his father-in-law, the Duke of -Richmond, and surrounded by a park. His winter residence is at York, on -the northern shore of Lake Ontario, the seat of the parliament of Upper -Canada. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - _Journey from the Falls of Niagara to Montreal.-- The - Battle-ground at Queenstown.-- Newark.-- Kingston.-- Montreal._ - - -On Thursday, the 25th of August, we took our final leave of the falls, -in the forenoon, in company with the Grymes and Clare families, for the -town of Newark, which is situated at the junction of the Niagara with -Lake Ontario, on the Canada shore, about fourteen miles distant. At -first our road passed over small hills, until we reached the -battle-ground at Queenstown, a steep hill, which is situated behind -Queenstown, and commands a view of the whole surrounding country. From -this, the country as far as Lake Ontario, is more level. Opposite to -Queenstown, on the American shore, is Lewistown. - -The battle of Queenstown took place on the 13th of October, 1812. The -English, under the command of General Brock, occupied the heights, whose -right wing borders on the Niagara, having a deep ravine in front, and -whose left wing gradually slopes towards other no less considerable -eminences, which they had slightly fortified. General Solomon Van -Rensselaer, the present post-master in Albany, and cousin of General Van -Rensselaer, the patroon, encamped with the American troops, consisting -of regulars and militia, on the opposite shore, near Lewistown. General -Van Rensselaer was apprised that General Brock, with the greatest part -of his corps, had marched towards the west, and that there were but few -troops left on the heights. He determined therefore to cross the river, -to make himself master of so important a position. During the night he -conveyed his regulars, about one thousand four hundred men, over the -river, and gave orders that the militia should follow on the return of -the boats, and form a reserve in the rear. These troops gained the -heights, and nearly surprised the British, who, notwithstanding, made a -bold resistance. The Americans would, however, have remained masters of -the field, had not General Brock returned with his detachment. Brock was -a brave soldier, and hearing that the troops whom he had left behind, -were in a dangerous position, he immediately attacked the Americans with -but a single company. In this attack he found a glorious and memorable -death. The Americans kept the heights as long as possible; their -ammunition, however, being nearly exhausted, General Van Rensselaer sent -orders to the militia to advance. The general himself hastened to the -opposite shore to accelerate their movements; he was answered that they -were ready to defend the borders of the United States, but it was -contrary to the laws of the country to take them out of it. The troops -of the line in the meanwhile, having exhausted their ammunition, were -obliged to retreat; they expected to embark, but not finding any boats, -they were compelled, after a heroic defence to surrender as prisoners of -war. On the place where General Brock fell, the parliament of Canada has -erected a monument to the memory of that brave and intrepid soldier. It -consists of a lofty column, which may be observed from every part of the -adjacent country. It was not yet completed, and wanted the inscription. - -We expected to meet the steam-boat Queenstown at Newark, in order to -proceed to Kingston, on the eastern extremity of Lake Ontario. We missed -it, however, and were afterwards informed that it had been obliged to -put in at another harbour on account of repairs. We were compelled, -therefore, to remain three days at Newark. Newark is a regularly built -town, with several handsome houses; it is situated at the outlet of the -Niagara into Lake Ontario, between Fort George and Missagua. Fort -Missagua is near the lake; Fort George lies south of Newark, and is in -ruins. During the last war, both these forts were occupied by the -Americans, and from Fort George towards the town, they had raised a -bulwark so as to form a kind of intrenchment. After they had evacuated -this position, and were obliged to retreat to the right shore of the -Niagara, the commander, General M'Clure, burnt the town of Newark, an -act for which he has been severely censured by his country. Since this -occurred, the village has never properly recovered, and its future -increase will also be slow, especially as government is digging a canal -to the west of Newark, which is to connect Lake Erie, and Lake Ontario, -which will probably hereafter withdraw all the transitory commerce. Our -time passed very agreeably in this town, particularly through the -attention of the worthy Sir Peregrine Maitland, who had come hither; the -politeness of Major Cob, and the gallant officers of the seventy-sixth -regiment, of which four companies were at Newark, as well as the -delightful singing of Mrs. Grymes, who remained with her husband, while -many others, with whom we had expected to sail, went away. - -We visited Fort Niagara, which is situated on the American shore, and -which, in consequence of its white houses, and its waving flag, presents -a very handsome appearance. The fort lies on a neck of land; it was -erected by the French in the middle of the last century, and was shortly -after taken by the British. After the peace of Versailles in 1783, it -fell into the possession of the United States, was retaken during the -late war by the British, and at the peace of Ghent, was again obtained -by the United States. We saw all that was to be seen, and found every -thing clean and comfortable. I will only further remark on the present -occasion, that the uniform of the United States' Infantry is very -simple, and consists of dark blue cloth, with one row of white buttons, -blue lace collars and cuffs of the same, white cord, and leather caps. - -We also visited the village of the Tuscarora tribe of Indians, who -reside within the limits of the United States, about three miles from -Lewistown. The village consists of single houses, or wigwams, and is -handsomely situated in a valley surrounded by forests. It contains a -frame church, in which the service is performed by a methodist -missionary, who also, during the winter, keeps school for their -children. Most of the houses are surrounded by gardens and orchards; and -the fields, in which they mostly cultivate Indian corn, appeared to be -in a very good condition. We were conducted into the house of an Indian, -about forty years of age, who had been educated in one of the schools in -New York, who speaks and writes English fluently. We found him in his -bed suffering from an attack of rheumatism. He inquired after our native -countries, and was pretty well acquainted with their geography. We -examined his library, and found that it consisted chiefly of methodist -religious books, with a history of the United States. He also had a -collection of Indian implements of war, consisting of a club of hickory -wood, a battle-axe of stone, bows and arrows, the points of which are -flint, very artificially made; an oblong stone, a kind of serpentine, -which the savages wear on their breasts during an engagement, and -ornaments of glass beads and shells, which they wear around their waists -in time of battle. All these articles I wished to buy; but the Indian -told me that he kept them for the inspection of strangers, and that they -were not for sale. Instead of them, he sold me some mocassins, a kind of -soft leather shoe, made of buckskin, which are ornamented with silk and -beads, and a small basket. Amongst the Indians, the women are obliged to -do all the work, even of the most degrading kind. Mr. Tromp, in order to -see several articles more conveniently, had placed his hat on the floor, -which was scarcely observed by the Indian, before he desired Mrs. Grymes -to put it upon a chair. His grandson, a boy of eleven years, shot very -expertly at an apple with his bow and arrow. - -The steam-boat Frontenac, arrived in the evening after our return, and -was to sail on the following day for Kingston. We went on board and -examined her cabin. Around the dining-cabin there are six chambers, each -containing four births. I was shown into one of these, in which I could -lie at full length. In the ladies cabin are fourteen births. A great -part of the deck was covered by an awning, so that passengers could -enjoy the fresh air at the same time that they were protected from the -sun or bad weather. The boat carries seven hundred and fifty tons, and -has an engine made by Bolton and Watt, at Soho, near Birmingham, of -twenty-seven horse-power. Sir Peregrine Maitland conveyed me to this -vessel in his carriage. She lay at anchor off Fort George. Sir Peregrine -had the great politeness to station one of the companies of the -seventy-sixth regiment with a flag, to fire a salute of twenty-one guns; -and his attention was still farther shown in sending his son along, that -I might have no difficulty in seeing the navy-yard, at Kingston. The -Frontenac sailed at half past five o'clock. In a few moments we were on -the lake, and in a short time lost sight of land, and were apparently in -the open sea. There was but little wind, and the vessel, in consequence -of its great size, produced no disagreeable rocking. During the whole -evening we were entertained by Mrs. Grymes, by her delightful -performance on the guitar, and by her singing French and Spanish songs. -The night passed quietly; but it was otherwise at break of day. It -rained repeatedly; the wind grew stronger; the vessel pitched, and -several persons became sea-sick. Lake Ontario is of an elliptical form, -is about two hundred miles long, and fifty-five miles at its widest -part. It is everywhere very deep, in some places five hundred feet, and -never freezes completely over. It contains several good harbours, and -the boundary line between Canada and the United States, divides it into -two nearly equal parts. - -In the afternoon we saw a small peninsula towards the west, called -Prince Edward's Island, and passed between a cluster of small islands, -called the Ducks. About nine o'clock in the evening we reached Kingston, -the British harbour on Lake Ontario. We cast anchor close by the town. -I spent the night on board, and in the morning, as I awoke, I found one -of the companies of the thirty-seventh regiment, who are here in -garrison, marching along the quay, near the vessel, as a guard of -honour, accompanied by a band of music. I dismissed them of course -immediately, and after having received the visits of a few officers, -we rode over the bay to the dock-yard, which lies opposite to Kingston, -surrounded by a high wall and protected by a strong guard. By the -navy-list I ascertained that there are ten ships here, with three -hundred and six guns, in ordinary. It appeared to me, however, that the -number of guns was greater, for the St. Lawrence, one of these vessels, -carried one hundred and twenty guns, and two which are yet on the -stocks, the Montreal and Wolf, have three decks, and ports for one -hundred and thirty guns each. According to the stipulation of the treaty -of Ghent, they are not permitted to build any ships here during time of -peace; so that the soldiers at the arsenal consisted merely of the -necessary officers, besides twelve carpenters, who had scarcely any -thing to do, but to work at an elegant little schooner, which was -shortly to be launched to serve as a yacht. The large vessels on the -stocks were uncovered, and appeared to have suffered much from the -weather. The St. Lawrence was the largest vessel in the river, and is -said also to be in a state of decay; her bottom especially has suffered -from the effects of the fresh water and worms. The wharves of the -dock-yard are built of wood, and bear marks of the haste in which they -were erected; they were in a bad condition. Within a few years they have -erected a magazine, three stories high and one hundred and ninety-two -feet long, with iron doors and shutters, for the preservation of the -sails and cordage. The partitions in the inside are made of wood. -Immediately on our entrance into the magazine the large iron door was -locked and kept so, inasmuch as they greatly mistrust the Americans. -Beneath the building is a cellar, which is also occupied as a magazine, -and the floor of which consists of limestone, which serves for the -foundation of the whole building. The stairs are of stone, and are built -into a tower; they intend also at some future period, to make the -different floors fire-proof, like the magazine at Plymouth, by covering -them with iron. In a distinct massy building are the forges, and in a -third the offices. By the side of the offices is a large room, which -contains the different articles used in ship-building. Opposite to the -dock-yard, on a neck of land, is Fort Frederick, which I had not time to -visit. Behind the dock-yard, upon a small height, stood a number of -tents. We were informed that about four hundred Irish emigrants had -encamped there, who had been sent to this country at the expense of the -English government, to settle a piece of land on the north-western bank -of Lake Ontario, whither they were soon to go. The town of Kingston -contains about two thousand inhabitants, and is built in the usual -style. - -We left Kingston after eleven o'clock, on board the steam-boat Lady -Dalhousie, for Prescott, sixty-eight miles from Kingston, on the left -bank of the St. Lawrence. Adjutant Maitland left us at Kingston, but the -rest of the company remained. We had scarcely left this place before we -sailed round a promontory on which stands Fort Henry, into the St. -Lawrence. This river is here very wide, and forms an archipelago about -fifty miles in length, called the thousand islands. The English and -American commissioners for determining the boundary line, took the pains -to count these islands, and found that they amounted to sixteen hundred -and ninety-two; in this calculation, however, they have included every -projecting rock, even if it had but a single tree. This archipelago -presents a beautiful prospect; most of the islands are rocky, and are -overgrown with trees, generally cedars. Here and there a fir reared his -lofty head, which, generally growing upon the bare rocks, where the -trees are less numerous, presents a picturesque appearance. We observed -something similar to the picture of Frederick, of which we were often -reminded in descending the St. Lawrence. Eighteen miles from Kingston -our vessel stopped at the village of Gananoqui, on the Canada shore, -to take in wood. I went for a moment ashore and found an insignificant -village, in the neighbourhood of which the river of the same name falls -into the St. Lawrence. The Gananoqui river has a rocky bed, and is -crossed by a wooden bridge, beyond which, upon a small eminence, is a -square two story log-house, the upper story of which was formerly -occupied as a garrison by about forty men. During the late war the -Americans got possession here of an English post and a magazine, in -consequence of which they built this block-house. At the extremity of -the archipelago of the thousands islands is a similar block-house for -the protection of the navigation of the river. - -On the Canada shore, about fifty miles below Kingston, where the -archipelago terminates, is the small village of Brockville, where there -are some fine magazines near the river. At this place the night set in, -which was warm and moonlight. We found two taverns in the village, but -they were so full of people, and had such a dirty appearance, that I -preferred spending the night on board the steam-boat, and my example was -followed by the families of Messrs. Clare and Grymes. The steam-boat -carried one hundred tons, and was of twenty-five horse power, but she -was by no means so convenient and comfortable as the Frontenac. - -At this place commence the rapids of the St. Lawrence. They are formed -by rocks, which extend obliquely across the river, over which the water -rushes with tremendous force, so that between this place and Montreal, -a distance of one hundred and thirteen miles, the steam-boats can run -only a part of the way. On this account, therefore, there is a line of -stage-coaches and steam-boats between Prescott and Montreal, which take -the passengers alternately, and produce much vexation in consequence of -the baggage. The rapids may be descended in bateaux, or Durham-boats, -which are small, flat vessels of about forty tons, have but half deck, -and draw eighteen inches of water. The Durham-boats have a mast and two -sails, and carry large cargoes of goods. We were anxious to undertake -the passage, in order to see the rapids, and to ascertain the danger of -which so much has been spoken. We therefore went on board a Durham-boat, -the Flying Dutchman, paid two dollars for each passenger, and were -assured by the captain, that, if the wind should be good, we should be -at Montreal in a day. Sir Michael resolved to attempt the enterprise, -and his lady accompanied him, in spite of her fears. Mrs. Grymes, -however, was so much afraid, that she preferred travelling partly in the -stage and partly by steam-boat. - -We embarked on board the Flying Dutchman, at about 6 o'clock, early in -the morning of the 30th August. The morning was delightful, and as we -were much pleased with the beautiful prospect of Prescott, in the -neighbourhood of which is Fort Wellington, a redoubt, which was built -during the late war. - -On the American shore we saw the town of Ogdensburgh, which was -fortified by the Americans during the late war, but soon fell into the -hands of the British. The comforts of our vessel were not, as we have -remarked, very great. It was open, a few barrels of potash served us as -a floor; and boards laid across our trunks as seats. Six miles below -Prescott we arrived at a few islands called the Gallop Islands, and the -first rapids. As we approached, the water appeared to be boiling, and -high foaming billows arose, over which our boat passed rapidly. They are -not so high as the swells at sea, but they are very short and rapid in -their movements. As our Durham-boat, however, was remarkably long, it -divided them without producing any disagreeable motion. Scarcely had we -passed the rapids before the river became again smooth, and as we had -scarcely any wind, our progress was but slow. Another set of rapids, -nine miles long, were passed in an hour, and with no more danger than -the preceding. We were assured, however, that a branch of these rapids, -from which we were separated by an island, are very dangerous. It is -called the least channel; and Duncan, in his Journal, gives a beautiful -description of a shipwreck that occurred here, in which many lives were -lost. Our vessel was not only flat at the bottom, like all the others -that pass these rapids, but had also an ingenious false keel, which -could be lowered and raised as the water was either shallow or deep. Our -passengers were principally of the lower class of Canadians, who spoke -bad French, somewhat like the Walloon. There was also a lively young -black bear, three months old, on board. - -About twenty miles below Longsault, we reached the village of Cornwall, -on the Canada shore. The wind was so feeble that we had no hopes of -reaching a good tavern before dark, we determined, therefore, to stay -here all night. Towards evening, Mr. Grymes' family also arrived by -land, and took lodgings at the same tavern. The village is small, but -the streets intersect each other at right angles, and contain several -new stone houses. It appears to be a place of little business. The -country is pretty flat, and the plain near the village is used by the -British as a race-ground. A race was to take place in a few days, horses -had already arrived and lodgings were bespoken. The British government -sends many Scotch emigrants into this part of the country. - -Our departure on the following morning was delayed two hours by the -ladies; and it was not until about 7 o'clock that we left Cornwall in -our Durham-boat. The morning was very pleasant, and in consequence of a -rather strong southerly wind, we glided rapidly along. Five miles below -Cornwall, on the right shore, we saw the village of St. Regis, the last -belonging to the United States. The American line here leaves the St. -Lawrence, both shores of which belong to Canada as far as its outlet -into the sea. On the left bank of the river we descried a new Scotch -village, called Glengary Settlement. Farther on, you reach a lake, -called Lac St. Francois, through which the St. Lawrence flows, and -through which the boundary line between Upper and Lower Canada is drawn. -This lake, which is about forty miles long, and six broad, contains a -number of islands. Not far from St. Regis we passed one of these -islands, which is inhabited by some Indians, who have been baptized by a -Catholic missionary, and have their island in a good state of -cultivation. One of the Indians, with his wife, came along side of us in -a canoe, and sold us some fish. At the point where Lac St. Francois -terminates, and where the St. Lawrence again commences, is the village -of Coteau de Lac, on the left bank of the river. At this village is a -pretty strong rapid, stronger than those we passed yesterday. In order -that this rapid may be avoided, and that vessels may ascend with more -ease, the government has had a canal dug along the river, which has two -locks, and is covered by a small fort, Fort du Coteau. - -Our captain had business at the custom-house; he stopped therefore for -an hour, during which I had time to look at the fort; after which we -continued our course in a strong wind which was brought on by a -thunder-storm. The shores and islands of the river are generally covered -with cedar trees, and amongst them we observed some neat houses and -churches, with bright tin roofs. At the village of Coteau des Cedres, we -were obliged to encounter the last and most dangerous rapid, called the -Cascades. The waves were uncommonly high, and our vessel passed over the -dangerous parts with incredible velocity. Along these rapids there is -also a canal provided with locks, and intended to facilitate the ascent -of vessels. If these rapids are viewed from the shore, it appears -incredible that a canoe should venture in without being swallowed up. -Such a misfortune, however, does not happen, as we had just proved. -Below this rapid the river, where it receives the Ottawa, again spreads -out so as to form another lake called Lac St. Louis. North of this lake, -and at the place where the Ottawa unites with the St. Lawrence, it forms -another lake, Lac des deux Montagnes, which is separated from Lac St. -Louis by three islands, called Jesus, Perrot, and Montreal. The -thunder-storm passed close by us; the wind blew heavy, but favourably. -We met a steam-boat, having a corpse on board, and her flag at -half-mast; this was a bad omen! Another steam-boat got ahead of us as we -were passing towards La Chine, and excited our desire to sail faster; -but suddenly we saw a terrible storm approaching. In an instant every -hand was endeavouring to take down the sails, and the small one was -fortunately drawn in before the arrival of the squall, but the large -one, in consequence of its bad cordage, was only half way down when it -struck us. Near us we observed a sound, with a dangerous cliff, which it -was necessary to avoid by steering to the left, but we were driven -directly towards it. Six men could scarcely manage the helm. Half of the -sail floated in the water, and our destruction appeared inevitable. No -one knew who commanded; the sailors thought themselves better qualified -than the captain, and every thing was hurry and confusion. I deemed it -best to remain silent, and commit myself to the care of Providence, who -guides the destinies of man. At length a sailor climbed the mast and cut -the cord, so that the sail could be taken down, by which time we had -fortunately passed the sound. The storm also, which altogether did not -last much longer than five minutes, began to abate. The steam-boat ahead -had been in the same dangerous situation, and would have been cast upon -the rocks in the sound, had she not speedily returned into the lake, -where she cast anchor. Immediately after the storm, during which it had -rained, we observed a remarkable phenomenon, viz. a fall of white-winged -insects, of which a great quantity fell upon our boat. It continued -during five minutes. These insects had in all probability been driven -from the neighbouring forests. The storm, though unpleasant, had the -effect of propelling us swiftly forwards. After 6 o'clock in the -evening, we reached without any other unpleasant occurrence La Chine, -a village, which has a harbour situated upon the island of Montreal. - -La Chine appears to be an insignificant village, though in consequence -of its favourable situation, it is said to do considerable business. The -French was spoken so badly here, that I thought myself transported to -our provinces of Hennegau or Namur. The village is said to have obtained -its name from the circumstance that during the time the country was -occupied by the French colony, they believed they could pass to China by -way of the St. Lawrence; and with this object, an expedition had been -fitted out, which embarked at La Chine. - -Between La Chine and Montreal, the river has a very dangerous rapid, on -account of which the government has built a canal as far as this place, -which is nine miles long, has several locks, and is said to be of much -importance to the trade. As we preferred going by land we hired a -stage-coach, and started about eight o'clock in the evening during a -violent thunder-storm. Lady Clare, who was scarcely recovered from the -fear which she experienced on the water, would willingly have spent the -night here in a tavern, as she was much afraid to travel during a -thunder-storm at night. It soon turned out that her fears were not -unfounded. We had scarcely passed three miles over a good turnpike road, -before we came in contact with several carts that stood in front of a -tavern, loaded with iron bars. The drivers had gone into the tavern, and -left their carts in the middle of the road, and as the night was dark we -approached one of them so suddenly that three of the iron bars entered -the breast of our shaft-horse, which immediately fell and expired. After -much dispute between the coachman and the carters, we rode on with three -horses, and arrived at Montreal about ten o'clock at night. We stopt at -the Masonic Hall, a hotel which has been established within the last -year. It is a very large, convenient, massy building, four stories high, -and built of blue stone. It affords a fine view of the St. Lawrence, -which is upwards of twelve hundred yards wide here. At our arrival, -I became immediately acquainted with Captain Mellish, of the engineers, -who was sent from England on a scientific expedition into the interior -of the colony. - -We remained at Montreal nearly three days. The city, which I examined in -company with Lieutenant Colonel Evans of the seventieth regiment, in -garrison here, contains about twenty-five thousand inhabitants. It -extends upon a hill to a considerable distance, between the St. Lawrence -and Le Mont Real, which is about seven hundred feet high, and is lined -with timber. It has two principal streets, which run parallel with the -river, and are intersected by a third, that runs along the ditch of the -demolished fortresses. The houses are generally built of blue stone, and -covered with bright tin, have iron doors and shutters to protect them -against the fire, which give the city a very dismal appearance. In our -walk we passed a number of young men who wore belts, and were dressed in -blue coats, the seams of which were covered with white cord. We were -informed that they were the pupils of the Catholic ecclesiastical -school. It is well known that most of the Canadians, and four-fifth of -the inhabitants of Montreal, are Catholics; they are bigotted, and the -lower classes are exceedingly ignorant. There is a very broad street, -which unites the two principal streets, and in the centre is the -market-house. At one of the extremities of this street, are the -court-house and prison; behind which is the place where the old forts -stood, since converted into a parade. Montreal has several hospitals, -which are superintended by nurses. These hospitals, however, are not -sufficient, especially as the nuns do not admit any fever patients. In -consequence of this, some of the most wealthy citizens have joined, and -selected a healthy spot, on which they have erected a new hospital, -three stories high, capable of containing seventy patients of both -sexes. In this hospital, the sick, fifty in number, receive cheap and -excellent accommodations. They are under the care of nurses, and are -attended gratis, by the best physicians of the city. The arrangement is -similar to that of the hospital at Boston, but there is less of luxury -here in their management. - -The public library is as yet small, though it is rapidly increasing. It -has united with it a cabinet of natural history. We also observed the -foundation for a large cathedral, which is to be built by private -contributions. At the barracks of the subalterns, I was much pleased -with the mess-room, which has a library connected with it; I was also -much gratified with the school for the education of the soldiers, and -their children. The barracks were formerly occupied as the Jesuit -college, which stood in the old French citadel, of which not a vestige -remains. Not far from the barracks is a steam-engine, which conveys the -water from the river into the city, at the same time that it moves a -mill. At the market-house stands a monument erected by the colony in -honour of Lord Nelson. It consists of a statue resting upon a single -column. On one side of the pedestal is an inscription; two others -contain representations of naval engagements; and the fourth, -a representation of the capitulation of Copenhagen. - -The next day, Lieutenant-colonel Mac Gregor conducted me to the parade, -where a part of his regiment was assembled. They formed a battalion of -six divisions. The battalion exercises were not performed, but the -manoeuvres, which were very complicated, and only adapted to the place, -were executed with much precision and admirable celerity. I learned a -new mode of making ready. At the command "ready," the soldiers levelled -their muskets, cocked them in this position; at the command "fire," they -brought them slowly to their cheeks. The infantry were divided into two -bodies, but in making a flank march, they formed into three, by passing -through the files. The platoons were divided into sections, containing -from four to six files, in consequence of which the oblique march was -easily executed. - -After this manoeuvre was completed, we took a boat, in company with the -officers, for the island of St. Helen, oppositely to Montreal, in the -middle of the St. Lawrence. This island contains a large artillery -depot, under the direction of Major Wallace. Upon landing we were -saluted with a discharge of twenty-one guns from the battery on the neck -of the island. This battery is of a crescent shape, and serves as a -training-place for the company of artillery stationed here. The gunners -were just practising with one nine, and one six pounder, and a -seven-inch howitzer, each of which was charged with grenades. The mark -stood in the river, and their dexterity was such that the grenade never -exploded before reaching it. The skill consists chiefly in the proper -calculation of the fuse, so that the powder of the grenade may explode -the moment it is over the mark. - -St. Helen was the only point that the French retained after all Canada -had submitted to the British power. It is about two miles in -circumference, and is covered with fine elms and different kinds of nut -trees, particularly the hickory. The soldiers have made excellent paths -through and around the island. A botanic garden was established here a -few years ago by the government, in which all the North American plants -are collected, for the purpose of furnishing gardens in England. On the -north side of the island you have some beautiful views of the shores of -the river, and Montreal, with her numerous churches, and situation at -the foot of the green mountain, presents a very imposing appearance. -Here are also the arsenal and barracks, new massy buildings, which are -protected against a _coup de main_ by a breast-work, as well as by -embrasures in the walls. The interior of the island is hilly, and in a -really romantic valley is a powder-magazine, containing four thousand -barrels of powder. Through Major Wallace, who resides in a very -beautiful house at the barracks, we became acquainted with his wife and -daughter, who pass their time very pleasantly at their solitary -habitation in music and drawing. During the winter, the people who are -obliged to stay on the island are sometimes prevented from going to -Montreal for six weeks, in consequence of the ice. - -After our return to Montreal we took another ramble through the city, -and observed some very large stores. As Montreal carries on some fur -trade through the Ottawa river, with the Hudson Bay and North-west -Company, I had supposed I should be able to procure some cheap fur; but -I found little that was good, and this was valued at an enormous price. -In the evening we went to the Royal Circus, whose pompous advertisement -had promised a large company of riders and a good play. The riders, four -grown persons and two boys, performed some tolerably good feats; but the -play was so badly managed that we soon returned to the house. The -theatre is in other respects handsomely arranged: it has two tiers of -boxes, and a circle for the horses, which, during the play, forms the -pit. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - _Journey from Montreal to Quebec.-- Stay at Quebec.-- Return to - Montreal-- from the 3d to the 9th of September, 1825._ - - -About 8 o'clock in the evening of the 3d of September, in company with -Messrs. Grymes and Clare's families, we embarked on board the steam-boat -Lady Sherbrook for Quebec, one hundred and eighty miles from Montreal. -Montreal wants good wharves, a circumstance which we felt sensibly on -going on board the steam-boat, as we were obliged to walk in the dark -through the mire, which was particularly disagreeable to the ladies. We -had taken state-rooms on board the vessel, so that the ladies could live -alone, and not be obliged to sleep in the common ladies cabin. To me it -was also pleasant to have a small room to myself. At Montreal I met -Captain King, of the English artillery, with whom I had become -acquainted at Boston, and who likewise travelled to Quebec. The other -passengers were not numerous. - -The steam-boat was one hundred and fifty feet long, carried eight -hundred tons, and her engine was of sixty horse-power, much too little -for such a large and heavy vessel. It started after 9 o'clock in the -evening. During the night it stopt an hour at the outlet of the river -Sorel into the St. Lawrence, at William Henry, a small town, so called -in honour of the Duke of Clarence. They were obliged to take in wood; -for the American and Canada steam-boats are not, like the European, -heated with stone coal, but with wood, which takes up much room on the -vessel, and much time in loading. - -The next morning we stopt on the left bank of the little town Les Trois -Rivieres, which contains two thousand five hundred inhabitants, is -eighty miles distant from Montreal, and situated where the St. Maurice -empties itself into the St. Lawrence. Before we came to this place, we -had to go through Lake St. Pierre, which is formed by the widening of -the river St. Lawrence. The banks of this river are thickly inhabited on -both sides, and are also said to be cultivated and productive. The river -is throughout from one to two miles wide, but fifty-two miles below -Trois Rivieres, at the village of Richelieu, it becomes narrower, and -here are the last rapids, called Rapids de Richelieu. The banks, which -as far as this place are pretty low, become higher and more rocky, -particularly on the left side. The neighbourhood is remarkably handsome -and picturesque. The majestic stream with its pleasant banks and the -view of the distant blue mountains near Quebec, produce an indescribable -effect. The weather was favourable, a clear sunny day, and not very -warm; in this northern latitude you can already perceive the approaching -autumn by the coolness of the nights and mornings. - -We reached Quebec at 10 o'clock in the evening. This city consists of -two parts, the upper town, which is built on a rock, and the lower, -which is pressed in between the river and the rock. The lights in the -lower town and the fortifications, had an elegant appearance, when -contrasted with the dark rock. The first coup d'oeil, which was by night, -reminded me of Namur, as it is seen from the right bank of the Maas. -In the river were many vessels, mostly used for carrying wood. It was -already late, and we should have found difficulty in transporting our -baggage by night, besides other inconveniences in finding lodgings for -the ladies, so we spent this night also on board the steam-boat, where -we were very comfortable and found it cleanly. - -The next morning, after dismissing the guard which the governor had -appointed to escort us, we went to our lodgings, in the upper part of -the town. The lower town is very narrow, and has a filthy appearance. -The streets are not paved, and badly provided with side-walks. The road -which leads to the upper part of the town is very steep. It stands on a -rocky ground, and its fortifications are elevated three hundred and -fifty feet from the level of the ocean. The upper is separated from the -lower town by a stone wall, which has the form of a horn-work. Through -this wall is a gate, which has a guard, the guard-room is opposite the -gate, and by means of a portcullis defends the entrance. For the -convenience of foot-passengers, there is a door near the gate, with -wooden stairs, by ascending which you reach the upper town. On the right -side of the gate is a building which resembles a chapel, and serves for -the house of commons of Canada. In order to get home, we were obliged to -go round part of the walls of the town. Even here you have an -indescribably beautiful view of the Bay of Quebec and the right bank of -the river, which has the appearance of a cape called Point Levi. - -Shortly after our arrival, I received a visit from Colonel Duchesnay, -first adjutant of the governor-general, and from Colonel Darnford, -director of engineers. The first gentleman came to bid me welcome, in -the name of the governor, and the latter begged to show me the -fortifications. Lord Dalhousie, governor-general of all the British -possessions in North America, was at that time in England, but was -expected daily. During his absence, the government was under the -direction of the lieutenant-governor, Sir Francis Burton, brother of -Lord Conyngham. He is a civilian, but is said to fill his high post with -credit. The good spirits the inhabitants are in, and the harmony that -exists in the colony, is mostly owing to his good management, and his -humane and friendly deportment towards them. It is said of Lord -Dalhousie, that he has estranged the hearts of the people from himself -and the government, through his haughty and absolute deportment, and the -opposition party in the Canadian parliament has thereby been -strengthened. - -With the above-mentioned public officers, we wandered through the city, -and first of all visited the government house, which is a large old -building, vacant during the absence of Lord Dalhousie. The rooms are not -large, and were not as richly furnished as I expected to see the mansion -of an English governor-general. At the back of the house, over the -vault, is a large balcony, from which one can see part of the town, the -harbour, and the surrounding neighbourhood. The citadel is a new work, -and not quite finished. The English speak with a kind of exultation of -the fortifications of Quebec, and compare it to Gibraltar. I also -expected something extraordinary, but cannot say that my expectations -were gratified. The heights near the town are the well-known plains of -Abraham, or more correctly heights of Abraham, upon which, on the 12th -of September, 1759, the battle between the English general, Wolfe, and -the French general, Marquis Montcalm, took place; a battle which cost -the lives of both generals, and in which the French were defeated with -the loss of the town and colony. - -General Wolfe took possession of the Isle d'Orleans, and made himself -master of Point Levi. The Marquis de Montcalm, upon the heights by the -falls of Montmorency, with his army in a fortified position, heroically -received the attack of General Wolfe and drove him back, with great loss -to the English army. On this occasion, General Wolfe embarked his men in -the night, took advantage of the darkness to pass the town, sailed up -the St. Lawrence, and disembarked at the place that is now called -Wolfe's cove. He mounted the rock with a great deal of difficulty, and -then put his army at the break of day in order of battle on the Heights -of Abraham. To assist the town, and drive the English from the heights -of Abraham, the Marquis de Montcalm found it necessary to leave his -impregnable position at Montmorency, and to cross, by a bridge secured -by double piers, over the river St. Charles. He now, with Quebec in his -rear, drew up his army upon the heights in good order and gave battle, -the result of which was unfortunate to him and his government. - -The English engineers make use of bricks which are burned in England, -for building the casemates of the fortification. A thousand of these -bricks cost the government, including transportation, two pounds ten -shillings! The reason they give is, that the bricks burned here, crack -in the winter. I rather believe that the preference of these foreign -bricks has some other reason. - -The arsenal is a large, yet not bomb-proof building, in which there are -more than twenty thousand muskets, and some useful pistols. We also saw -here several very handsomely ornamented single and double-barrel guns, -which are kept for the purpose of making presents to Indian chiefs. - -The upper part of the town is very old and angular, the streets are -muddy, and many not paved. Both towns contain about twenty-five thousand -inhabitants. The Catholic cathedral is quite a handsome building; it has -three altars, and paintings of but little value. On account of the -coldness of the climate the church is floored. The inside of the church -is divided like English churches, into aisles. It is near the seminary, -an old French building, with massive walls, having four corners like a -bastion. In this seminary resides the Bishop of Quebec. We had already -been introduced to Bishop Plessis, in the house of Sir Francis Burton, -and found him a very agreeable and well-informed man. He is the son of a -butcher of Montreal, and has elevated himself by his own merit. A few -years ago he travelled through England, France, and Italy, where he -received the title of Archbishop of Canada, from the pope. The English -government in the mean time, took into consideration, whether they would -recognise his title, because he would, as archbishop, rank in the -Canadian parliament before the English episcopal bishop. We paid our -respects to this worthy man. He received us kindly, surrounded by many -young priests. His secretary showed us the building and the garden. The -scholars had a vacation, and the house was deserted. They are not all -destined for the priesthood; the most respectable people of this country -have their sons brought up in this institution, in which they receive a -very good education. The Catholic clergy are very much respected here, -and they are said to deserve it, on account of the information they -possess, and the benefactions they bestow. The English government left -them all the emoluments and prerogatives which they possessed before the -colony was conquered. On this account, the clergy are obedient to the -government, and exert their best influence over the people in favour of -the government. In the seminary is a small philosophical apparatus. The -natural history cabinet is not very rich; the best part of it is a -collection of East India shells. The garden of the seminary is rather -large, and serves as a fruit and vegetable garden, &c. - -Nine miles from Quebec is the waterfall of Montmorency, to which we -travelled, escorted by Colonel Duchesnay. The road passed through the -palace gate. This is the gate where General Arnold made his attack, when -he stormed the place in December, 1775, and was wounded in the leg. His -column had already pressed into the city, and would certainly have taken -the town, if General Montgomery, who attacked the lower town from the -side of the St. Lawrence, had met him at the same time. This, however, -was impossible, as General Montgomery fell, and after his death his -division fell into confusion, and retreated. An English artillerist, -returning to the only cannon placed there, which had already been -deserted, set a match to it, killed this hero with twelve men, and thus -saved the town. - -We crossed the river St. Charles over a long well built wooden bridge, -and continued our journey partly on a road cut through the rock, having -the St. Lawrence always in view. The neighbourhood is well cultivated; -several farm-houses have a very ancient appearance. The handsomest of -them belongs to the seminary at Quebec, and serves the priests as a -pleasure ground. About the middle of the road is the village Beaufort, -where one has a very good prospect of the city, the right bank of the -St. Lawrence, the Isle d'Orleans, and down the stream. We left the -carriage at the river Montmorency, over which a wooden bridge is thrown, -and walked nearly to where the Montmorency empties itself into the St. -Lawrence. At that place are the falls, two hundred and seventy-five feet -high. The surrounding country is extraordinarily beautiful. Near the -waterfall is a cave, where the soil is either sunk, or washed away by -the water; it is a narrow deep crack in the earth, which you cannot -behold without shuddering. When the water is high, there are three -falls. The middle one precipitates directly down, the two others cross -over the middle one. The drought, however, of the summer of 1825, and a -canal, which drains the water from the river to drive saw and other -mills, has lessened the quantity of water in the river, so that only one -of the three falls has water, and instead of seeing the other two, you -perceive the bare rock. This rock is slate. At Quebec and Point Levi, -it is limestone; in Quebec it is interspersed with silicious crystals, -hence its name Cape Diamond. The stones of Point Levi are used for -building houses and fortifications; all copings are made of this stone. -Most of the trees in this neighbourhood are cedar. Below the falls of -St. Lawrence they have constructed a little harbour by means of two -piers, whence they trade in boards on account of its nearness to the -sawmills. About a mile and a half above the great falls, in the same -river, are others. The channel at these falls is very narrow between the -rocks, and formed like stairs; on this account, they are called the -natural stairs; resembling very much, though in miniature, the falls of -Trenton, near Utica, and are situated in a thick forest of fir, pine, -and cedar trees. The road from the bridge to this place, and hence to -the turnpike, is a very obscure footpath through the woods. - -On the second and last day of my sojourn at Quebec, I went to the -parade, escorted by Colonels Durnford and Duchesnay. I was pleasantly -taken by surprise, when I found the whole garrison under arms. The -commanding officers wished to show me their corps. On the right wing -stood two companies of artillery, then a company of sappers and miners, -after this, the sixty-eighth, and lastly, the seventy-first regiment of -infantry. The last is a light regiment, and consists of Scotch -Highlanders; it appeared to be in particularly good condition. This -regiment is not dressed in the Highland uniform, which was only worn by -some of the buglemen. It has a very good band of buglemen, who wear -curious caps, made of blue woollen, bordered below with red and white -stripes. The troops defiled twice before me. - -On the 6th of September we sat out in the steam-boat for Montreal. Sir -Francis sent us his carriage, which was very useful to the ladies. On -the dock stood a company of the sixty-eighth regiment, with their flag -displayed as a guard of honour, which I immediately dismissed. The -fortification saluted us with twenty-one guns; this caused a very fine -echo from the mountains. Night soon set in, but we had sufficient light -to take leave of the magnificent vicinity of Quebec. - -The journey, of course, was more tedious in ascending than in descending -the river. Fortunately the tide was in our favour during the night, -until we passed the rapids of Richelieu. In the morning we stopt at -Trois Rivieres to take in wood; we then went slowly on. I employed this -leisure in writing, but was often interrupted. In this boat they have -four meals daily, and at every repast they drove me from my writing -place. In the morning at seven o'clock, they ring the bell for the -passengers to rise and dress; at eight o'clock breakfast is served, -which consists of tea, coffee, sausages, ham, beefsteak, and eggs; at -twelve, they take luncheon; at four, dine; at eight, take tea; and an -hour before every meal they set the table. The weather was cloudy nearly -the whole day; it began to rain towards evening, and continued raining -through the night. - -At Sorel, or William Henry, we came to, in order to land some -passengers, and take in wood. This place is situated on the right bank -of both rivers, at the confluence of the Sorel or Richelieu, (the only -outlet of Lake Champlain,) with the St. Lawrence. The French built a -fort here, which stands yet, if such bad palisades, barracks, and -arsenals, deserve that name. The town itself was built in the year 1785, -by the so called American tories and discharged soldiers. It contains -two churches, about one hundred houses, and six hundred inhabitants, -whose houses are mostly of wood, and stand separately in the streets, -which are arranged in squares, and occupy a great space. It is built on -a sandy soil, and has a poor aspect. Generally speaking, the towns in -Canada bear a very poor comparison with those of the United States, and -will never arrive at the same point, because the settlers in Canada are -mostly poor Scotchmen and Irishmen, who come out at the expense of the -government; they receive land, and are oppressed by the feudal system, -which opposes all prosperity; emigrants, however, who possess some -property, and have an ambitious spirit, settle themselves in the United -States, where nobody is oppressed; on the contrary, where all the laws -are in their favour. - -At Fort Sorel is stationed a garrison, a detachment of the seventieth -regiment, commanded by a sergeant; an artillery detachment which was -moving to Montreal, tied its sloop to our steam-boat, and came on board; -the artillerymen mostly intoxicated. Towards evening, we learned that -the sloop contained three boxes of gunpowder, which caused us a great -deal of uneasiness. The danger was so much the greater, as the sparks -were continually flying from the pipe of the steam-boat, which the wind -drove towards the sloop. I was one of the first who received the -information, and immediately gave the alarm. All the passengers agreed -in persuading the captain during this rainy and stormy night to remove -the sloop some distance from our boat, and place in it an officer and -three of the least intoxicated artillerymen. The night was dark, and we -were compelled to cast anchor and remain till morning. - -The next morning the weather was still cloudy and rainy; the storm was -particularly strong, and the wind ahead. The machinery was too weak to -make any progress. We therefore saw Montreal three hours before we could -reach it; the current particularly was so strong between Montreal and -the Isle of St. Helen, that in spite of the machinery we were driven -backwards. At last we were obliged to draw up the boat by aid of six -oxen, two horses, and ten men. The Lady Sherbrook, however, is one of -the oldest steam-boats on the St. Lawrence, and the captain himself -confessed that she was so rotten that she was not worth repairing, and -will soon be condemned. About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, after we had -been forty-six hours on our journey, which took but twenty-six hours -going down, we were landed at Montreal. The battery on the Island of St. -Helen saluted us with twenty-one guns. The first information we received -was, that fifty houses were burned down yesterday in the suburbs of the -town, and that this misfortune fell mostly upon the poorer class, whose -houses were not insured. - -Mr. Bingham, from Philadelphia, who married a rich heiress here, and -turned Catholic to get possession of her estate, gave a ball to-day, in -honour of the first birth-day of his only daughter, and politely invited -our company. We accepted the invitation, and rode to the ball at 9 -o'clock. He was twenty-four years of age, and his wife nineteen; has -many friends, because his cellar is well filled, and has the talent to -spend his money liberally among the people. We found assembled in his -rich and tastefully furnished halls the whole fashionable world of -Montreal. They mostly dance French contra dances, commonly called -Spanish dances. To the contra dances, in honour of the officers of the -seventieth regiment, who are the favourite young gentlemen, they have -adopted tedious Scotch melodies; to the Spanish dances they played -German waltzes. The native ladies conversed in very soft Canadian bad -French, not even excepting our handsome landlady. I took particular -notice of a Miss Ermatinger, the daughter of a Swiss, and an Indian -woman, on account of her singular but very beautiful Indian countenance. -She was dressed in the best taste of all, and danced very well. Indeed -there was a great deal of animation at this ball, as well as a great -deal of luxury, particularly a profusion of silver plate and glass in -the house of Mr. Bingham, whose sister is the wife of the banker, -Baring, of London. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - _Journey from Montreal to New York.-- Isle Aux Noix.-- Lake - Champlain.-- Lake George.-- Falls of Hudson.-- Glenn's Falls.-- - Saratoga Springs.-- Saratoga Battleground.-- Shaker Settlement - at New Lebanon.-- Military School at West Point._ - - -As the season was so far advanced, I wished to reach New York without -delay. We therefore concluded to travel soon, and visit Lake Champlain -to its southern extremity, then to Saratoga, Albany, and further down -the Hudson to New York, taking the Catskill mountains by the way, and -inspecting the famous military school of West Point. With this view, on -Friday, the 9th of September, we went on board the steam-boat Montreal, -which runs between Montreal and the right bank of the river. -Lieutenant-Colonel M'Gregor and Major Loring escorted us to the boat. -In half an hour we found ourselves on the other side of the river. We -landed near the village Longueuil, where stage-coaches awaited us, which -carried us and our baggage to St. John, situated on the river Richelieu, -about twenty-seven miles from Longueuil. The road lies several miles -along the banks of the river St. Lawrence, till you arrive to the -village of La Prairie. In this village we took our leave of this noble -neighbourhood and majestic stream, on whose banks we had tarried so -agreeably. The road led through a plain, which was very little -cultivated, and containing few trees. We only met with a single village -called Lavane. Here and there we observed some larch trees. About half -past one in the afternoon, we reached the village of St. John, having -arrived a mile from the above-named village, at the river Richelieu. -Here we went on board the American steam-boat Phoenix, in order to sail -for Whitehall. This vessel deserves the name, because the boat, whose -place it supplies, was of the same name, and burned some years ago on -Lake Champlain. The new Phoenix is commodious and clean, one hundred and -twenty feet long, having machinery of forty-six horse-power. Both banks -of the river were thickly timbered. Ten miles above St. John we reached -an island called Isle Aux Noix, the last English strong post on Lake -Champlain. The captain had the politeness to tarry here a short time, -in order that I might survey the island and its fortifications. - -Isle Aux Noix contains about ninety acres, and is very flat and swampy. -The fort is called Fort Lenox, in honour of the late duke of Richmond; -it consists of a regular square, with four bastions and two ravelins, -and is built according to the system of Vaubans. On account of the -swampy ground, the fortification which anciently stood here, is almost -sunk. The revetement is a half one, and formed of wood, as well as the -scarp and counterscarp. The whole lower wall consists of roots of trees, -mostly cedar, placed horizontally crosswise, and only those roots which -constitute the revetement stand upright. On the horizontal roots earth -is thrown and rammed. The engineers believe that this costly work will -stand thirty years. I however believe it would have been better if they -had rammed the roots into the ground and put a grate upon that, and then -a strong stone revetement, or still better if they had arched it _en -decharge_. The two ravelins, whose basis is also of wood, lie before -the northern and southern front. Under the curtain of the eastern front, -they have built casemates for the garrison. Near the gate in the wall -are small arsenals, and on the inside of the fort stands the -guard-house, which also contains the prison. The base of this -fortification, as well as the few buildings which stand within, are -bomb-proof. The houses are built of blue limestone which comes from the -state of Vermont. A road covered with palisades surrounds the fort. -I observed here palisades which can be knocked down backwards, and might -be advantageous in case of accident, whilst I took a survey of this -work, accompanied by Captain Reed of the seventieth regiment, who is -commandant, and has already been in garrison here one year with his -company, also by the two engineer officers. Northward of the fort stands -the navy-yard, which is in the same situation as it was at the period of -the treaty of Ghent. There were about twelve gun-boats under cover, and -a frigate of thirty-six guns on the stocks, whose keel and skeleton has -rotted ever since. A naval magazine, and the dwellings of the officers, -overseers, and workmen of the wharf, stand behind the navy-yard. The two -branches of the stream separating the island from the main land are -tolerably small, and the shores are covered with trees. - -Eleven miles above Isle Aux Noix we left Canada and again reached the -territories of the United States. At the point where the river Sorel -leaves Lake Champlain, and where we entered into the latter, the -American government has erected a fort called Rous' Point, consisting of -a defensive tower with casemates, which, as well as I could judge in -passing, appeared to have been located with much judgment and erected at -a small expense. This tower completely commands the communication -between the lake and the Sorel, and as the guns are all under cover, the -garrison has but little to fear from the vertical fire of the enemy's -infantry. The fort stands on a cape. According to the treaty of Ghent, -the forty-fifth degree of north latitude, between the state of Maine and -the St. Lawrence, between the United States and Canada, were fixed as -boundaries; and as to fulfil the terms of the treaty, the commissioners -determined the latitude of several places astronomically, it has been -discovered that this fort lies somewhat north of forty-five degrees, and -consequently is on the Canadian side. - -The greatest breadth of Lake Champlain, which contains several large -islands, is six miles. The shore on our right, belonging to the state of -New York, is low and covered with trees; the other belongs to Vermont, -and is more mountainous. As night approached, we were prevented from -enjoying this beautiful part of the country; I was also with regret -prevented from seeing the battle ground of Plattsburgh, at which town -the vessel made a short stay during the night. Some American -custom-house officers came on board, without, however, inquiring after -our baggage, and this was a new and not disagreeable circumstance. - -The same night we stopped at Burlington in Vermont, and the Grymes' -family left us here to go to Boston. I expected to meet this interesting -family again in New York in fourteen days. Towards morning we passed the -ruins of Fort Crownpoint, which lie on a hill. At this place the lake is -very narrow and resembles a river. The shores are generally covered with -bushes and pine trees, are hilly, and afford a pleasing prospect. At the -village of Shoreham, twelve miles above Crownpoint, on the eastern shore -of Vermont, we left the Phoenix, which went twenty miles further to -Whitehall, the southern point of Lake Champlain, and landed to see Lake -George, which is celebrated for its romantic situation and shores. Sir -Michael and Lady Clare continued with us, and resolved not to part from -us till we arrived at Albany, after which they would travel to Boston. -As a slight recompense for the loss of the Grymes' family, Mr. -Shoemaker, and his wife, from Philadelphia, bore us company hence to -Albany. They were Quakers, but had laid aside the striking costume of -their sect. - -At the inn of Shoreham is a place for loading and unloading vessels, -which transport much plaster of Paris and blue limestone for building, -to Canada. Among the stones on the shore we found some which appeared to -be rich iron ore, said to be common in Vermont. At the inn we met with -an elderly lady of the middle rank, who was smoking tobacco; this custom -is said to be prevalent here among elderly women. We passed over the -lake, scarcely half a mile wide, in a wherry, and landed on the other -shore, not far from the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga. This in an old French -fort, lying on an elevated cape, which commands the navigation of the -lake. From the ruins we saw that it was a square with four small -bastions and three ravelins, the scarp, and the counterscarp being -covered with strong stone-work; the bastion contains casemates as well -as the curtain of the eastern front. Several massive buildings stood in -the fort so that it must have had but little room. About three hundred -paces east of the fort, on the extremity of the cape, stands a small -pentagonal redoubt, which communicated with the fort by means of a -covered way. The cape is connected with the main land of New York by -means of a neck of land, which was cut off by a crownwork, consisting of -earth. The eminence on which this crownwork lies, in some measure -commands the fort, and an entrenched camp seems to have been located -here. Between the fort and crownwork we remarked the remains of two -square redoubts. On the same shore, south of the fort, but separated -from it by an inlet of the lake, lies Mount Defiance, which commands the -fort in a great degree, and from which, in July, 1777, the English, -under General Burgoyne, bombarded the fort, which was too quickly -evacuated by the Americans, under General St. Clair. On the eastern -shore of the lake, opposite Ticonderoga, lies another hill, Mount -Independence, of the same height as the fort on which the Americans had -formed their works at that time, under the protection of which they -passed the lake after the evacuation of the fort. This was afterwards -destroyed by the English. In July, 1758, when the fort still belonged to -the French, the English attacked it, but were repulsed with a loss of -eighteen hundred men. - -From Ticonderoga we went in a stage three miles further to Lake George, -through a very hilly country. The level of this lake is about three -hundred feet higher than that of Lake Champlain; the stream which flows -from the former into the latter lake, forms a succession of small -cascades, and turns several saw-mills. We arrived at the northern point -of Lake George, and entered the steam-boat Mountaineer, which was ready -to depart; it was ninety feet long with a machine of sixteen -horse-power. - -Lake George resembles the Scottish lakes. It is thirty-six miles long, -and never more than five miles broad. The shores are very hilly, the -heights are all covered with trees, and are not, as it seems to me, -above eight hundred feet high. There are several islands in the lake, -generally covered with wood. A single one, called Diamond Island, on -account of the handsome crystals which are found in it, is inhabited. -The inhabitants consist of an Indian family, which lives in a small -house, and maintains itself by selling these crystals. About five -o'clock in the evening, we arrived at the southern point of the lake. -The scenery is very handsome. One of the highest mountains, which rises -perpendicularly out of the lake, is called Rodgers' rock, after an -American Captain Rodgers, who being hunted by the Indians, during the -revolution, fled to the top of this rock, and in extremely cold weather, -being urged by danger, glided on the smooth surface down to the frozen -lake. Towns are not seen; but few single houses stand along the shore. -At the southern extremity, however, lies the village of Caldwell, -founded about twenty years ago, which, besides a very good and large -inn, where we took lodgings, contains several neat houses. In former -times, an English fort, William Henry, stood here, which, to judge from -its few remains, must have been a square redoubt of earth. It was built -in the year 1755, by order of Sir William Johnstone, who commanded the -English army in the then colony of New York, after having completely -routed, on September the 8th, 1755, a French corps which had come from -Ticonderoga to attack him. In this rencontre, Baron Dieskau, a French -general lost his life. In the following year, however, Marquis de -Montcalm arrived with a stronger force and captured the fort. -A capitulation was allowed to the English garrison, but they were -attacked after leaving the fort, by the Indians, in a disgraceful -manner, and the greater part cut to pieces. After the fort was taken, -the Marquis de Montcalm ordered it to be destroyed. Not far from this -place, in a higher station and on a rocky ground, the English erected -afterwards a new fort, called Fort George, which, at the unsuccessful -expedition of General Burgoyne, in 1777, served his army as a depot and -magazine, till he moved too far forward and was cut off from the fort. -Remains of it are still plainly seen. It was a strongly-built square -redoubt, the entrance being protected by a _fleche_. It lies in an -advantageous situation, commands the whole southern shore of the lake, -with a large part of the vicinity, stands, as was said before, on a -strong ground, and is covered on one side by a morass. On the eastern -side alone, it is commanded by a high mountain, which, however, is at -some distance. If the American government should resolve to restore -Crownpoint and Ticonderoga, the latter particularly would be adapted, -after fortifying the two mountains, Defiance and Independence, for an -arsenal of a superior kind; it might contain large depots, serve as a -fortified camp, and be successfully defended by a small garrison. Here -fleets might be completed to command Lake Champlain, and an expedition -against Isle Aux Noix and Canada organized. However, a good road would -be necessary, leading from Ticonderoga to the northern point of Lake -George, three miles distant, and here it would be necessary to protect -the place of embarkation by a fort. A new fort on the same spot where -Fort George was erected, would be necessary. There is a good locality -between this fort and Fort William Henry to found a dock-yard. The -communication between Ticonderoga and the United States would be well -and doubly protected by the southern point of Lake Champlain, towards -Whitehall, and by Lake George. If the English should attack the United -States on this side, they would undoubtedly waste much strength, and not -advance a step, unless they had seized Ticonderoga. - -We left Caldwell at eight o'clock the next day, September 11, in two -inconvenient carriages, and passed through a very uninteresting, deep, -sandy road, in a hilly country, covered with thorny trees, on our route -to Saratoga springs, to which the whole fashionable world of the United -States repairs in summer, for the fashionables have here the same mania -which prevails in other countries, to visit the baths in summer, whether -sick or well. The distance is twenty-seven miles. On our passage, we saw -but one interesting object--the Hudson falls, which river we had left at -Albany, and reached again nine miles from Caldwell, coming from the -west. - -These falls are known under the name of Glenn's Falls. A village of the -same name is built in their vicinity, on the rocky shores of the river. -The river is crossed by means of a pendant wooden bridge. The arches -rest on pillars, consisting of large beams, which lie across each other, -as tit-mouse traps are constructed in my native country; the bridge -might therefore be called bird-cage bridge. These cages rest on a -foundation of limestone, cut through by the Hudson in its course. This -river is really a remarkable sight in this sandy country. Above the -bridge it is one hundred and sixty yards broad, and crossed by a dam, -which conducts the water to the saw-mills along the banks. A single -rock, on which, also, a saw-mill stands, divides into two parts, the -principal fall, which is forty feet high. But there are, both above and -below the principal falls, a number of smaller falls, which we could -approach with ease, as the water was very low. These falls are not -indeed to be numbered among the largest, but among the handsomest falls -which I have seen. A constant mist arises from them, and, as the sun -shone very brilliantly, we saw several rainbows at the same time. In the -rock, as at Niagara, we observed some remarkable and deep cavities. They -arise from the flintstones which are scattered throughout the limestone, -and are washed away by the violence of the water. When these flintstones -meet with resistance, or fall into a small cavity, they are constantly -agitated by the falling water, and moving in a circular direction, form -by degrees deep cavities in the soft limestone. At the base of the small -island, which divides the chief fall into two parts, a remarkable cave -appears below the falls, leading to the other side of the rock; this was -also undoubtedly made by the washing of the water. The saw-mills, all of -wood, occupy a bold position over the falls, and appear besides, to be -in such a state of decay, that a fear arises, lest they should soon fall -into the abyss. The Hudson is partly navigable above Glenn's Falls, and -two miles further up, feeds a navigable canal, with thirteen locks, -which runs seven miles north of the Hudson, and then joins Champlain -canal. - -We arrived at Saratoga at two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped at -Congress Hall. The greater part of the company had already departed, so -that but forty persons remained; among these was the governor of the -state of New York, the celebrated De Witt Clinton.[I-10] I was -immediately introduced to his excellency, and very well received by this -great statesman. - - [Footnote I-10: [Since, unfortunately for his country, - deceased.]--TRANS.] - -The water of the springs is cold, of a somewhat salt taste, and stronger -than the mineral water of Eger. It is said to act very beneficially as a -tonic. When this region was yet covered with forests, inhabited -principally by Indians, and by few white people, the Indians were -acquainted with the virtues of this water; only one spring, however, -High Rock Spring, was discovered. They led to it the above-mentioned Sir -William Johnstone, who was much beloved by the Indians, and in a bad -state of health. By drinking this water he regained his health, and thus -this spring became known. It is not above twelve years since a beginning -was made to clear the ground, and build houses; at present, more than a -hundred, principally of wood, form a street. They are generally arranged -to receive strangers. The four largest hotels are Congress Hall, Union -Hall, the Pavilion, and the United States Hotel, the last of brick, the -three former of wood. Congress Hall alone, was yet open, the others had -closed since September 1st, on account of the frost. The hotel can -accommodate two hundred strangers. In the evening the company assembles -in the large halls in the lower story, at this season, alas! by the -fire, and pass the time in music, dancing, or conversation. Games of -chance are strictly forbidden by the laws of the state, and in general, -public opinion in the United States is much against gaming. I was told -that at a watering-place in Pennsylvania, three genteel young men once -arrived from different parts of the United States. They were at first -very well received, but afterwards were found to be gamblers. All -communication with them was immediately broken off in so striking a -manner that they were soon obliged to leave the place. - -The different springs, which do not lie far from each other in a swampy -ground in the same valley, are called Hamilton, Congress, Columbia, Flat -Rock, Munroe, High Rock, President, and Red Spring. The water is -generally drank, but baths are also erected. High Rock Spring flows from -a white conical limestone rock, five feet high, in which there is a -round aperture above, about nine inches in diameter, through which the -water in the spring is seen in a state of constant agitation. So much -fixed air escapes from it, that an animal held over it, as in the -_Grotto del Cane_, near Naples, cannot live above half a minute. Mr. -Shoemaker held his head over the opening, and though he had covered it -with a handkerchief, immediately fainted away; he retained besides, -during several days after this experiment, a bad dry cough. The vicinity -of Saratoga Springs possesses no attraction. Promenades are not yet -constructed. The only pleasure which can be enjoyed must be sought in -company. A large piazza is built before Congress Hall, to the pillars of -which wild vines are attached, which almost reach the roof. I passed the -evening in the lower parlour by the fire, with the governor and Mr. -Schley, from Maryland, in very agreeable and instructive conversation. -The ladies did not entertain us with music, because it was Sunday. - -The governor had the kindness to give me some letters for New York, and -a letter of introduction to the Shakers of New Lebanon. Furnished with -these, we left Saratoga Springs, September 12th, at 9 o'clock, in a -convenient stage to go to Albany, thirty-six miles distant. We passed -through a disagreeable and sandy country. The uniformity was, however, -very pleasingly interrupted by Saratoga lake, which is eight miles long. -At Stillwater village, we reached the Hudson. Not far from this, runs -the new Champlain Canal, which was commenced at the same time with the -Erie Canal, but is not yet completed, and which I mentioned on my -passage from Albany to Schenectady. At Stillwater we visited the two -battle-grounds, Freeman's Farm and Bernis's Heights, which became -celebrated September 19th, and October 7th, 1777. These actions, as is -known, took place during the expedition of Burgoyne. They closed with -taking the whole corps of this general, to which also the Brunswick -troops, under General Von Riedesel belonged, at Saratoga. - -Our guide to both battle-grounds, which are adjacent, was an -octogenarian farmer, called by his neighbours Major Buel, because he had -been the guide of the American army during the campaign. The ground has -since greatly changed; wood has grown again, so that with the exception -of some remains of the English lines, nothing is to be seen. Not far -from the river, on an eminence, are the remains of a very small work, -called the great English redoubt. Here lies General Fraser, of whose -burial Madam Von Riedesel gives a description so attractive, and yet so -terrific. I broke off, near his grave, a small branch of a pine tree to -present it to Baron Von Riedesel, Land-marshal of the Grand Duchy of -Saxe-Weimar. I inquired after the house in which the mother of the -latter had lived, and in which General Fraser died. This house stands no -longer on the original spot, as the canal passed through its site; in -other respects it is said to be arranged now, as it was then. The place -in the bar-room, where General Frazer died, and a small room behind -this, in which Madam Von Riedesel lived with her children, were shown -me. - -At the small town of Waterford we passed along the left shore of the -Hudson on a long wooden bridge, to avoid a bad bridge over the Mohawk. -We proceeded on our route in the night on a very good road, and passed -through Lansingburg and Troy. The latter is very handsomely built, and -many stores are very well lighted up in the evening. Here we returned to -the right shore of the Hudson, and reached Albany at 10 o'clock at -night. - -On the 13th of September I went with Mr. Tromp in a stage-coach to New -Lebanon, twenty-eight miles from Albany to see the settlement of -Shakers. We passed through Greenbush, (where the team-boat put us on the -left side of the Hudson,) Schodack, Union, Stephentown, and Canaan. The -country about New Lebanon is extremely handsome; the tops of the -mountains are covered with trees, and the lower parts well cultivated. -The valley is wide, with very neat houses, and resembles a garden. Fruit -is particularly cultivated. On a slight eminence at the foot of a -mountain, the Shaker village is very beautifully situated, and is about -one mile long. The houses stand in groups at a distance from each other, -in general large, built of wood, and painted yellow; the church alone, -or rather the meeting-house, is wide, with an arched roof of slate. - -The Shakers are a religious sect, originally from England. It was -founded by Ann Lee, the daughter of a Manchester blacksmith, and wife of -the blacksmith Stanley, of the same city. Her chief doctrines are, -community of goods, a perfect continence with regard to the sexes and -adoration of the Deity by dancing. Ann Lee pretended to higher -inspiration, performed miracles, announced the speedy reappearance of -Christ on earth, spoke of the millennium, and of similar glories. She -commenced in England, by making proselytes among the lowest classes, who -followed her when she preached in public, held noisy prayer, or rather, -dancing meetings, and thus disturbed the public peace. This worthy -prophetess was therefore, with her friends, at different times -imprisoned; the impatient and unbelieving public even began once to -stone her. The good soul, whose convulsions were said by the wicked -world to be the effect of ardent spirits, wandered therefore, in 1774, -with her family, and several of her friends, to New York, where she -settled. But her husband was wearied with the sisterly connexion in -which he lived with her, and resolved to divorce his sisterly wife, and -marry another. Whereupon the repudiated wife wandered towards Albany, -settled first at Watervliet, and held meetings. These meetings, however, -appeared to the Americans so suspicious, (it was during the time of the -revolution,) that the good lady was arrested at Albany with several of -her friends, and transported to the neighbourhood of New York, in order -to give her in charge to the English, who then held the city. But she -soon returned again to Watervliet, and her faithful adherents bought -land near Niskayuna, between Albany and Schenectady, and settled there. -A large part of this people, those particularly who had joined the sect -in America, founded the colony of New Lebanon. Ann Lee died in -Niskayuna, in 1784. As this sect conducted itself very quietly, and gave -no public offence, the government allowed them to live in peace. The -colony numbers about six hundred members, who are divided into families, -some of which contain above one hundred individuals of both sexes. Each -lives in a group of houses with an elder at their head. The elders of -all the families form a counsel, which watches for the public good. They -have for divine service a sort of preachers, two of each sex, who hold -forth on Sundays. The greatest cleanliness prevails in the houses, -equalled perhaps only by the hospital of Boston; the brethren live on -one side, and the sisters on the other. They have a common eating-room, -in which again each sex has its own side, but different working places. -Both the brethren and the sisters live, generally, two individuals in -one room, and two also sleep in the same bed. Many of the sisters, -however, notwithstanding their good food, were pale and wan. - -When a family wishes to join the Shakers, the relation of brother and -sister, must immediately take place between husband and wife. The -children are then brought up in Shaker principles. Orphans also find a -home with them; still, however, unfavourable reports are circulated -about the origin of these orphans. Of course, if the principles of these -people should prevail, which, however, may heaven prevent, the world -would soon be depopulated. In countries, however, with too great -population, it might perhaps be of service to receive missionaries of -this sect and promote proselytism. - -Every family possesses a shop, where all things made by the family are -laid out for sale. These articles generally consist of wooden utensils, -sieves, brushes, harness, table-linen, somewhat coarse silver writing -pens, very good rose water, &c. Besides, they sell books, exposing the -doctrines of their sect, and containing the life of their founder, Ann -Lee, whom they call mother Ann. They pay also much attention to the -breeding of cattle, make good butter, and particularly good cheese, -great quantities of which they sell. Their hogs are remarkably handsome, -and cleanliness is also extended to them. It is a rare pleasure to walk -about in a Shaker pig-sty! they have a large kitchen garden behind the -church, where they raise vegetables, principally for the sake of seed, -which is said to be here of a remarkably good kind. Medicinal herbs, -roots, and berries, which they cultivate very carefully in a separate -garden, and which, as I heard in Albany, are of a remarkably good -quality, form a principal part of their commerce. - -The governor's letter every where procured me a good reception, as they -generally lead strangers about the settlement with reluctance. The few -men with whom I spoke, and who accompanied me, were elderly people, and -had long ago become Shakers with their parents. An old man told me, that -he had been one of the first adherents of mother Ann at her arrival in -America. They were very polite to me, and appear to be somewhat monkish. -They showed me also their church, which they do not generally do, -Sundays excepted, as every body can attend their worship. My travelling -plan did not allow me to pass a Sunday with them. The hall, which serves -as their church, is about eighty feet long, and above fifty broad. On -one side stand benches in form of an amphitheatre, for spectators and -old members, to whom the dancing has become difficult. The floor -consists of handsome cedar wood, which is well polished; the boards are -attached to each other without nails. Service commences, as I was told, -with a speech, which the congregation hear in a standing position, the -sexes being again divided. Occasionally the spirit comes upon one or the -other; they are so moved by the speech, that they begin to shake, and to -make strange contortions. Then begin the prayers, which are sung, and -during which, they dance. Every member has a spot about four feet square -for jumping, and I was assured this service was done with such a zeal, -that the vaulters sometimes fainted away. - -We delayed too long with the Shakers to follow our plan of previously -visiting Lebanon springs, and reach Albany the same day. We consequently -gave up this design and returned to Albany; we were overtaken by the -night, and a storm. It was so dark, that the driver could scarcely find -the way; he therefore took a lantern against my advice. This was -extinguished, and we were in a still worse situation. Two miles from -Greenbush the driver left the road, went to the right towards a slope, -and almost threw the stage entirely over; it fell on the right side, and -my head and arm were injured, though but slightly. On my right side I -was much more hurt, and one of my ribs was actually broken, as it was -afterwards discovered. Mr. Tromp had his head and one of his hands -injured. As we had no baggage, and were but two miles from Greenbush, we -resolved to leave the stage where it was, and walked to Greenbush. At -about eleven o'clock we reached the river. Not a soul was in the street; -the lights were all extinguished, and the ferry boats were on the other -side of the river. Our shouting was of no avail; the pain in my side -also prevented me from calling. In about half an hour, however, the -stage arrived, which the driver had raised with the help of some -farmers; and he made such a terrible noise, that at last, after waiting -an hour, the ferry boats came to take us to Albany. In riding through -the city the jolting of the stage gave me much pain. On leaving the -stage at twelve o'clock I could scarcely speak or walk on account of my -side, which I had also injured two years previously, on my passage from -Ostend to London, and since that time it had constantly retained a -painful sensation. - -The next morning I awoke with such dreadful pain in my right side, that -I could scarcely move in bed. The obliging Sir Michael Clare gave me -every assistance. He opened a vein in my arm, took sixteen ounces of -blood, gave me a purgative, and ordered embrocations to the side, by -which treatment the pain had so much abated in the afternoon, that I -could move with more ease. I was, however, confined the whole day to my -bed. The Van Rensselaer family showed me much attention. On the second -day I could indeed leave the bed, but still not continue my journey. On -the third day, September 16th, Sir Michael and Lady Clare left Albany -for Boston, whence they were going to New York. My pains had not much -abated, but I nevertheless resolved to proceed to New York, as I had -read in the papers that the Pallas had arrived there, and as I wished to -receive the attendance of Dr. Schilett. I was indeed obliged to -relinquish my design of seeing Catskill Mountains, but thought of -stopping at West Point to visit the military school. - -At ten o'clock we embarked on board the steam-boat Richmond. The banks -of the Hudson are very handsome, and here and there well cultivated. -From Albany to New York it is one hundred and forty-four miles, and to -West Point ninety-six. Hudson, a place twenty-seven and a half miles -from Albany, which we reached at noon, seems to be very handsome and -lively. We remarked in the harbour several sloops, and on shore some -brick stores, five stories high. On the opposite side of the river lies -Athens, between which and Hudson there seems to be much communication -kept up by a team-boat. A very low island in the middle of the stream -between the two places rendered this communication somewhat difficult at -first, as vessels were obliged to make a great circuit. To avoid this -inconvenience, a canal was cut through the island, through which the -team-boat now passes with ease and rapidity. This place affords a very -fine view of the lofty Catskill Mountains. - -About eleven o'clock at night we arrived at West Point, on the right -side of the Hudson, and landed at a wharf furnished with a sentry-box. -An artillerist, who stood sentinel, examined us. I afterwards discovered -that this rule was made on account of the visits which the cadets -receive. We were obliged to ascend a somewhat steep road in order to -reach the house, which is prepared for the reception of strangers. -A small but very clean room was prepared for us. The building belongs to -the government, and is designed for the mess-room of the officers and -cadets. The purveyor for this table is bound by contract with government -to keep several chambers with beds in order, for the reception of the -relations of the cadets, and thus a kind of inn arose. - -The morning after our arrival we paid an early visit to -lieutenant-colonel Thayer, superintendent of the military school, and -were received in a very friendly manner. He has presided over this -school eight years. It was founded in 1802, during the presidency of -Jefferson. Colonel Thayer has entirely remodelled this institution. -During his travels in Europe he visited the French military schools, and -has endeavoured to make this resemble the polytechnic school. But he -will find it difficult to equal this once celebrated school, as with the -best will in the world he cannot find in this country such excellent -professors as were assembled in that institution. The cadets, whose -number may amount to two hundred and fifty, but at the last examination -consisted of two hundred and twenty-one, are divided into four classes -for the purposes of instruction. They are received between the ages of -fourteen and twenty, undergo an examination before they enter, and must -then pass a probationary term of half a year, during which time the -mathematics are chiefly studied. After six months the young men are -examined on the instruction which they have received, and those only who -pass this ordeal continue in the school; the others are dismissed. - -Instruction is communicated gratuitously to the cadets, each of whom -receives monthly eight dollars from government as wages. A public -examination of the cadets takes place every year at the end of June, -by a commission, appointed by the secretary of war. This commission -consists of staff-officers from the army and navy, members of congress, -governors of states, learned men, and other distinguished citizens. -After this examination, the best among those who have finished their -course are appointed as officers in the army; the very best may choose -the corps in which they wish to serve. The others receive stations, -according to their capacity, in the following order: engineers, -artillerists, infantry, marines. Should even these corps have the -necessary number of officers, these young men as supernumeraries, -receive full pay. At the examinations also, the cadets advance from one -class to another. The names of the five best in each class are made -known in the newspapers, and also printed in the army list, which -appears every year. This is certainly an encouraging arrangement, and -worthy of imitation. - -The discipline of the cadets is very rigid; they leave the school only -as officers, on which account their noviciate in the corps of cadets -serves as a practical school of passive obedience. The punishments -consist of arrest, which, however, does not interrupt the course of -instruction; but when a case occurs that a cadet is to be punished a -second time for the same fault, he is dismissed. The same takes place -when after two public examinations he has not learned enough to advance -into a higher class. - -The day is thus divided in this school:-- - -_From day-break till sunrise._ --Reveille at day-break--roll-call -after reveille--cleaning of rooms, arms and dress--half an hour after -roll-call, inspection of the rooms. - -_From sunrise till seven o'clock._ --First class, military engineering. ---Second, natural and experimental philosophy. --Third and fourth, -mathematics. - -_From seven till eight o'clock._ --Breakfast at seven o'clock. --Parade -at half past seven.--Class parade at eight o'clock. - -_From eight till eleven o'clock._ --First class, recitations and -engineer and military drawing.--Second, natural and experimental -philosophy.--Third and fourth, mathematical recitations. - -_From eleven till twelve o'clock._ --First class, lectures on engineer -and military sciences. --Second, lectures on natural and experimental -philosophy. --Third and fourth, mathematical studies. - -_From twelve till one o'clock._ --First class, Monday, Wednesday, and -Friday, lectures on chemistry applied to mechanics and the arts, or -mineralogy and geology. --Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, studies on -the same subjects. --Second, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, lectures -on chemistry. --Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, studies on the same -subject. --Third, French recitations.--Fourth, French studies and -recitations. - -_From one till two o'clock._ --Dinner very plain and frugal at one -o'clock--recreation after dinner till two o'clock. - -_From two till four o'clock._ --First class, studies and recitations -in geography, history, belles lettres and national laws. --Second, -landscape and topographical drawing. --Third, Monday, Wednesday, and -Friday, drawing of the human figure--Tuesday and Thursday, studies of -the French language. --Fourth, French studies and recitations. - -_From four o'clock till sunset._ --Military exercises--inspection of the -dress and roll-call at sunset. - -_From sunset till half an hour later._ --Supper immediately after -parade--signal to go to the rooms immediately after the supper. - -_Half an hour after sunset till half past nine._ --First class, studies -on engineer and military sciences. --Second, studies on natural and -experimental philosophy. --Third and fourth, mathematical studies. - -_From half past nine till ten o'clock._ --Retreat beat at half past -nine--roll-call immediately after--signal to extinguish the lights and -inspection of the rooms at ten o'clock. - - - TABLE - - _Of the Sciences taught and the Books used at West Point._ - - ============================================================== - First Class. Course of fourth year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Engineering._ - INSTRUCTORS. - Capt. Douglass. - Lieut. Mordecai. - Artillery tactics. - Field and permanent fortifications. - Civil and military architecture and constructions. - Treatise on the Sciences of War and Fortification, - by Guy de Vernon. - Traite des Machines, par Hachette. - Programme d'un Cours de Construction, par Sganzin. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _History and belles-lettres._ - Rev. Mr. M'Ilvaine, Chaplain. - Geography. - History. - Moral philosophy. - Laws of nations. - Morse's Geography. - Tytler's Elements of General History. - Paley's Principles of Moral and Political Philosophy. - Vattel's Law of Nations. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Chemistry and Mineralogy._ - Dr. Torrey. - Lieut. Prescott. - Application of chemistry to the arts. - Cleveland's Treatise on Mineralogy and Chemistry. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Tactics._ - Major Worth. - Capt. Hitchcock. - Lieut. C. Smith. - Lieut. Kinley, teacher of the Artillery. - Platoon--battalion--school and line-evolutions. - Exercises and manoeuvres of artillery - Rules and Regulations for the Field-exercise and Manoeuvres - of Infantry. - Lallemand's Treatise on Artillery. - ============================================================== - - ============================================================== - 2nd Class. Course of 3rd year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Natural and Experimental Philosophy._ - Prof. Mansfield. - Lieut. S. Smith. - Lieut. Parrot. - Statistic, dynamic, hydrostatic, hydrodynamic, pneumatic. - Magnetism, electricity, optics, astronomy. - Gregory's Treatise of Mechanics. - Newton's Principia. - Enfield's Institutes of Natural Philosophy. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Chemistry._ - Chemical philosophy. - Henry's Chemistry. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Drawing._ - Capt. Douglass. - DRAWING MASTER. - Gimbrede. - Landscape. - Topographical drawing. - ============================================================== - - ============================================================== - 3rd Class. Course of 2nd year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Mathematics._ - Prof. Davies. - Lieut. Ross. - Lieut. Webster. - Lieut. Greene. - Lieut. Mahan. - Differential and integral calculus. - Analytic geometry. - Perspective shades. - Descriptive geometry and conic sections. - Traite du Calcul Differential et Integral, par Lacroix. - Essai de Geometrie Analytique Appliquee aux Courbes et aux - Surfaces du second ordre, par Biot. - Crozet's Treatise on Perspective, Shades and Shadows. - Crozet's Treatise on Descriptive Geometry and Conic Sections. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _French Language._ - TEACHERS. - Berard and Ducommun. - Translation from French into English. - Histoire de Gil Blas, les 3 derniers tomes. - Histoire de Charles XII. par Voltaire. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _Drawing._ - DRAWING MASTER. - Gimbrede. - Human figure. - ============================================================== - - ============================================================== - 4th Class. - Course of 1st year. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - SCIENCES. - PARTICULAR SUBJECTS. - TEXT BOOKS. - ============================================================== - _Mathematics._ - Surveying and measuring. - Trigonometry. - Geometry. - Algebra. - Treatise on Plane and Spherical Trigonometry, and on the - Application of Algebra to Geometry, translated from - the French of Lacroix and Bezout, by Professor Farrar. - Legendre's Geometry. - Complement des Elemens d'Algebra, par Lacroix. - Lacroix's Elements of Algebra. - -------------------------------------------------------------- - _French Language._ - Translation from French into English. - Histoire de Gil Blas, tome I. - Berard's Lecteur Francais. - Berard's French Grammar. - ============================================================== - -I was surprised to learn that the young men clean their rooms and -clothes themselves, as well as make their own beds: only the cleaning of -shoes and boots, and carrying of wood may be done by servants. But -Colonel Thayer thinks, that if too many servants were in the school, the -cadets would have too great an opportunity of remaining in connexion -with the world, without the knowledge of the officers. The cadets are -divided in four companies, and live in two large massive buildings, -three stories high. In the older of the two buildings, two occupy one -room; in the other, three are placed in one room. They sleep on -mattresses, which are spread out on the floor in the evening, and have -always two chambers, one for sleeping and the other for study.--This -opens upon a long corridor. The cadets keep their arms also in their -rooms. Their uniform consists of a grey jacket, with three rows of -yellow buttons, bound with black cords; in winter, grey, in summer, -white pantaloons; white leather equipments, as worn by the army, and, -for fatigue service, leather caps. The officers wear the uniform of the -artillery corps, to which they belong. Notwithstanding the -extraordinarily fine situation of the school, the cadets have not a -healthy appearance, perhaps because they have too little recreation. - -After having seen the rich private library of Colonel Thayer, he took us -to the school. We met with a class which was engaged in descriptive -geometry. Several cadets, who stood at the board, demonstrated some -problems of this science very correctly, and answered with great ease -and accuracy some questions and objections, which Professor Davies made -to them. We then attended a physical lecture of Lieutenant Prescott, -which, however, appeared to be elementary; he explained the principles -of the doctrine of heat, and then related the theory and history of the -thermometer. - -The institution possesses a fine library and a collection of maps, which -receives constant additions. We found several of the newest German maps. -Colonel Thayer is a man who labours under a disease with which they say -I am also afflicted, namely, the bibliomania; on that account I -continued a long time in this library. I remarked here, also, -a full-length portrait of the former president, Jefferson, by Sully, of -Philadelphia, and another of the engineer, General Williams, founder of -the school. - -The institution possesses four principal buildings. The two largest -serve as barracks for the cadets, a third contains the mess-room and -inn, and the fourth the church, chemical laboratory, library, and the -hall for drawing, in which are some of the best drawings of the cadets. -As a model of topographical drawing, they had taken the Montjoui of -Gironna, designed according to the Atlas of Marshal G. St. Cyr. They -have adopted the French manner of drawing plans; I saw, however, in the -library, Lehmann's work translated into English. A very fine marble bust -of the Emperor Napoleon stands in the drawing-hall. - -A large level space, consisting of several acres, lies in front of the -buildings, forming a peninsula and commanding the navigation of the -Hudson, above which it is elevated one hundred and eighty-eight feet. -Towards the river it is surrounded with steep rocks, so that it would be -difficult to ascend, unless by the usual way. At its junction with the -main land, it is commanded by a mountain, whose summit is five hundred -and ninety-six feet above the level of the river. This position called -to my mind the plain below Lilienstein, in Saxony, opposite to -Koenigstein. On the summit of this mountain lie the ruins of Fort Putnam, -so that the plain on which the buildings of the academy stand, is -entirely insulated, and may be very well defended as well in the -direction of the river as of the main land. During the revolution this -fort was erected, like Fort Clinton, and was impregnable. To seize it, -the English had recourse to bribery, and General Arnold, who commanded -West Point, was on the point of delivering this position to them. This -disgraceful treachery was fortunately prevented by the seizure of Major -Andre. The tragical end of the major, and the flight of Arnold on board -the English corvette Vulture, which lay at Verplank's Point ready to -receive him, are well known. - -The above-mentioned Fort Clinton stood on the eastern point of the -level, and was considered as a redoubt. It consisted of a crown-work of -three bastions, and the redoubt which the two wings of the crown-work -adjoined. The redoubt stands on the extreme point of the rock, and the -remains of the battery can still be seen in it, which completely -commanded the river, both above and below West Point. The fort is now in -a state of dilapidation, and the foundations of the buildings alone, are -to be seen. During the revolution, chains were extended here across the -river. On the left side, in an oblique direction towards West Point, -is another rock, not so high, and similar to a peninsula, washed by the -Hudson on three sides and separated from the main land by a morass. Two -redoubts stood on this rock, in order to have complete control over the -river. - -Besides the above-mentioned buildings, several houses and gardens are -situated on the plain of West Point, occupied by the officers and -professors. Large wooden barracks also stand here, inhabited by a -company of artillerists, and some soldiers condemned to confinement in -irons, who are employed to blast the rocks. These culprits have a long -chain attached to one foot, and the other end of the chain is fastened -to a twenty-four pound ball, which they must either drag or carry. Three -iron six pounders stand in front of the barracks. The Americans use iron -cannon, like the Swedes, and are very well satisfied with them. At -another place on the same plain, we saw five six pounders, with which -the cadets exercise. Three are French pieces, presented to the Americans -by Louis XVI. decorated with the French arms; and the motto, ultima -ratio regum. The two other pieces are English, were taken during the -revolution, and as an inscription says, were given by congress to -General Greene as a reward for his conduct in the south of the United -States during the war. His heirs have not yet reclaimed them, and they -consequently remain here. A pyramid of white marble not far from these -pieces was, according to the inscription, erected by General Brown, to -the memory of Lieutenant-Colonel Wood, a pupil of this school, who fell -in 1814, at a sally of Fort Erie. - -In the evening we saw the cadets exercise; they form a small battalion -of four divisions, and are commanded by their officers, and the eldest -cadets of the first class, who wear officer's scarfs, and swords. The -young men perform their exercises uncommonly well, and I was gratified -at the good order which prevailed. A band of music, paid by the -government, belongs exclusively to them, and is said to afford the best -military music in the United States. Every one has his taste, but I must -confess that even the celebrated music of the English guards, and the -American music, are far behind that of the French, Netherlanders, and -Germans. - -In company with Colonel Thayer, we crossed the Hudson to visit an iron -foundry which belongs to a society, whose director is Mr. Campbell, -a friend of Colonel Thayer. Two high furnaces are in constant -employment, as the foundry furnishes all the iron arms which government -requires. One piece had just been cast, and we saw several other pieces -cast from a new high furnace. Next to the foundry is a building for -boring the guns, in which ten pieces may be bored at once; for this -purpose they lie in a horizontal position, the machinery being turned by -a large wheel. As, however, in hot and very dry summers, or in very cold -winters, the water now and then fails, they contemplate substituting a -steam-engine in place of water-power. - -Notwithstanding my injured side, I ascended the rocky mountain on which -the ruins of Fort Putnam lie. My way led through a handsome forest of -oak, beech, chesnut, and walnut trees. The fort occupied the summit of -the mountain, was erected in an indented form, of strong granite, and is -altogether inaccessible on the side next the enemy. It had but a single -entrance, with very strong casemates, and two small powder-magazines. It -was built during the revolution on private property; the owner of the -ground claimed it, and government were obliged to restore it to him, -after which he destroyed the fort. The government afterwards acquired -the ground on which West Point stands, as well as the adjoining heights. -It appeared to me, if not necessary, still to be useful to build Fort -Putnam again, in order to complete the important position of West Point, -which can serve in time of war as a fortified camp, or place of refuge -for the people, &c. as impregnable as it was before. But to my -astonishment, I learned that this would probably not take place, that on -the contrary, with regard to the defence of the country, reliance was -placed on the fortified entrance of New York, and that in general in the -interior of the country no fortifications would probably be made. They -appear to think that the impregnability of the country particularly -consists in having no powerful neighbours; that England could not send -over a strong army, and that even if this should happen, England would -be obliged to scatter her strength too much, so that single corps could -be subdued with ease. This view appears to me doubtful; I wish from my -heart that these excellent people may never find by experience, that -they have deceived themselves. But security, when too great, is always -dangerous. A very fine view is enjoyed from Fort Putnam of the plain of -West Point, and of the Hudson, which here calls to mind the high banks -of the Rhine. The view to the north is particularly handsome, in which -direction Newburgh, lying on the river, is seen in the back ground. We -saw nothing of the Catskill mountains. - -We went with Colonel Thayer and the cadets to church. The chaplain of -the academy, Dr. M'Ilvaine, an Episcopalian clergyman, performed divine -service. The sermon was very good and sensible, and very well adapted to -the young men. He proposed several objections which are made against the -superiority of the Christian religion, and refuted them all, by deriving -his arguments from the new testament and human reason. I was much -pleased with the deportment of the cadets in the church, a deportment -which is not always observed in young people in other countries at such -times. - -The topographical drawings which the cadets make, and according to which -they are instructed in fortification, were shown to me by the excellent -Captain Douglass, teacher of engineering. The so called modern system, -or the Carnmontaigne system, improved by the French engineers, forms the -basis of the instruction. Captain Douglass, who also instructs them in -the formation of roads and bridges, makes use of Wiebeking. Many of the -cadets who do not intend to remain in the military service as officers, -being bound to remain but one year in service, after leaving the -academy, serve each in his own state, as civil engineers, and perform -very essential services. All officers of the army and navy are now -supplied by cadets from the academy; for there are no cadets in the -regiments, and in time of peace no subaltern officers are promoted. - -I was very sorry that we were obliged on the third day after our arrival -to leave this agreeable place, which had so extremely pleased me; but I -was obliged to go to New York at last! Our West Point friends -accompanied us to the steam-boat, and here we took an affectionate -farewell. A Captain Randolph, of Virginia, with whom I had become -acquainted at West Point, with his wife, went also to New York, so that -I was agreeably entertained on board; the boat was so filled with -people, we scarcely found room at the dinner-table. The shores continue -to be handsome. We passed several handsome places and country-seats, -which denoted that we were on the road to a large and flourishing city. -At a turn of the river the shores approximate, and here stands a -handsome country-seat with a garden, called Verplank's Point; opposite -is a fort, Stony Point, the possession of which was disputed during the -revolution by several bloody fights. The situation of Singsing, where -there is a house of correction, is very handsome. We saw the offenders -engaged in blasting rocks. The stream now becomes broad, and forms two -successive bays, the former Haverstraw Bay, and the other Tappan Sea. On -the right shore of the latter is the town of Tappan, where, condemned by -the court-marshal as a spy, Major Andre was hung and buried. The English -government ordered him to be dug up some years ago, and his remains to -be transported to England, if I am not mistaken, to be laid in -Westminster Abbey, whilst the remains of General Fraser, who fell like a -hero in open battle, at the head of the royal troops, still lies without -the slightest memorial in the old redoubt of Stillwater! The tree which -grew on Andre's grave was also taken to England, and as I was assured, -transplanted to the Royal Garden, behind Carlton Palace!! - -Below Tappan Sea, the shores again approximate, and the right side -becomes very steep, resembling the rocks near Pirna, on the Elbe, and -are called the palisades. After sundown we came into the vicinity of New -York, the largest city in the United States, which attracts nearly the -whole commerce of the country, and now already numbers one hundred and -seventy thousand inhabitants. We landed about eight o'clock in the -evening, and on account of the incredible number of strangers could not -obtain lodgings at five different taverns. At last we were very glad, -after much fatigue from running about, to find a miserable bed-chamber -in a common and ordinary tavern, the Theatre Hotel, handsomely situated -near the park and theatre. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - _Stay at New York._ - - -On the ensuing morning, we removed for the present to a French -boarding-house, No. 76, Broad street; and I took a first walk through -the city, in order to acquire some general knowledge of it. The city is -partly built in a regular style; the streets are badly paved, but the -side-walks are good, and there are not so many hogs running at large as -in Albany. I was particularly pleased with Broadway, the principal -street. This is three miles long, very wide, has elegant stores, and -very pleasant side-walks. The Park is likewise very handsome, as well as -the City Hall, which is situated in its centre, and is called one of the -handsomest buildings in the United States. However, I was not -exceedingly pleased with it, finding neither there, nor in the churches -of this city, a remarkably fine style of building. There is a great -number of churches, and most of them have church-yards attached; but for -some years past they have interred their dead in cemetries, which are -situated out of town. At a church near the Park, I observed a monument -in memory of General Montgomery, who died in attacking the city of -Quebec; this monument is not very tasteful.[I-11] - - [Footnote I-11: [It was designed and executed in _Paris_.] - --TRANS.] - -Back of the City Hall is a large building, called American Museum. It -contains a number of curiosities from the animal and mineral kingdoms, -put up in very good order in two large halls. A considerable collection -of American birds occupies nearly the entire walls of one hall; there -are numbers of quadrupeds, though less perfect; an interesting -collection of fishes very well preserved, and a fine series of turtles, -from a gigantic species,[I-12] seven feet six inches long, down to the -smallest; there was likewise a considerable series of crustaceous -animals; a small collection of minerals, and these without arrangement. -Besides, there were various Indian weapons, dresses, and other -curiosities; ancient and modern arms of different nations, &c. a helmet -of the first regiment of the Duke of Naussau, found on the field of -Waterloo; several Italian antiquities, the most of them small lamps and -other trifles. There is a large and exceedingly beautiful specimen of -rock crystal, weighing two hundred and twelve pounds, found in a Mexican -silver mine. An Indian mummy is likewise very interesting; this was -found in the year 1814, near Glasgow, state of Kentucky, nine feet under -ground, in a nitre cavern, two thousand yards distant from the entrance; -it is in a sitting posture, and was enveloped with deer-skins and Indian -cloth. In addition to various miscellaneous articles, there was a number -of miserable wax figures and paintings. - - [Footnote I-12: [_Improved_ by having a number of _Shark's teeth_ - placed in its mouth and throat.]--TRANS.] - -The battery, to which I walked, is at the southern extremity of the city -and island of New York; there was formerly a Dutch fort here, but it has -been pulled down, and the place altered into a public garden, which -gives a fine perspective of the entrance of the bay, and of Long Island. -West of the battery, in the Hudson river, is a fort, called Castle -Clinton, communicating with the battery by a wooden bridge, ninety paces -long. This fort forms a semicircle; on the diameter are the former -barracks, and behind the walls, which form the semicircle, a battery of -twenty-four guns, under casemates. North of this fort, on the same -shore, in front of the city, are two other forts of the same -description, called North Battery and Fort Gansevoort; being of no use -they are abandoned. Castle Clinton is now a public pleasure house. In -the barrack is a coffee-house; boxes for parties are arranged within the -battery, and on the platform are amphitheatrical seats, because the yard -of the fort is used for fire-works, and other exhibitions. From the -battery I walked to Brooklyn ferry, and was delighted with the large -number of vessels, and the great life and bustle. Brooklyn is situated -on Long Island, opposite to New York. The straight, called East river, -at Brooklyn, requires about seven minutes and a half to cross it; there -are two steam-boats and two team-boats continually crossing. Brooklyn -appears to be a flourishing little town, judging by the quantity of -stores which are established there. I passed to the left, and after -having walked upwards of a mile, spent some hours at the navy-yard, and -returned to the city exceedingly fatigued, on account of the great -distance. - -I went on board of the Pallas with Mr. Hone, president of the Canal Bank -of this city, a rich and respectable man, and with Mr. Derviter, -a merchant of this city, and a native of Grammont, in Flanders. The -Pallas rode at anchor in the Hudson, between New York and Jersey City, -a little village in the state of New Jersey, opposite New York, on the -right side of the river. Soon after our arrival, boats likewise arrived -with some ladies, who had wished to see the Pallas. As the cabin was but -small and narrow, the ladies were served, by Captain Ryk, with an -elegant luncheon on deck, under an awning; they were some of the most -amiable and fashionable ladies of the city, and remained on board till -three o'clock, and then went on shore during a pretty heavy storm. - -On returning home at night, I observed that the streets were not well -lighted. I was afterwards informed, that the corporation of the city was -just engaged in a quarrel with the gas-company relative to the lamps; -this quarrel protracted the inconvenience, though it was somewhat -lessened by the numerous stores, which are kept open till a late hour, -and are very splendidly lighted with gas. The gas-lights burn in -handsome figures; at a music store, I saw one in form of a harp. - -An eminent physician of this city, Dr. David Hosack, who, since his -second marriage, is said to have an annual income of twenty thousand -dollars, receives every Saturday night, during the winter season, the -professional gentlemen of the city, and distinguished foreigners. His -library, and collection of engravings, is then opened for the use of the -visitors, and a discourse is sometimes delivered. This learned and -obliging gentleman, offered himself to me as a guide through the city; -I accepted his politeness, and visited several interesting institutions -in his company. - -The City Hospital was built in the year 1770, by voluntary -contributions, and is supported by the interest of its capital, and by -the state government. The building is of blue stone, and stands on high -ground, in a very healthy situation. An avenue of old and high elm trees -leads to it. In the first story is a large room, where the board meet; -this contains the library, which is particularly rich in botanical -works. In the basement is the kitchen, and several wards for syphilitic -patients. They intended to establish a new hospital for these patients, -like the lunatic asylum, formerly in one of the wings of this hospital, -which is now established out of town. There may be accommodated in this -hospital altogether four hundred patients of both sexes. They are -attended to by nurses in large wards, each of them containing about -sixteen beds. The bedsteads are of wood; upon inquiring why they were -not of iron, they replied, they were afraid to use them, on account of -the heavy thunder-storms which frequently occur. Six physicians and four -surgeons are attached to the hospital, and alternately attend. One -physician and one surgeon live free of expense in the hospital, and one -of them must always be present for extraordinary cases. The apothecary's -shop attached to the hospital is kept very neatly; however, it appeared -to me to be inferior to those in the hospitals of Boston and Montreal. - -For the purpose of visiting the newly-erected lunatic asylum, we called -upon Thomas Eddy,[I-13] an aged and venerable Quaker, who is at the head -of the hospitals, charitable institutions, &c. I was introduced to him -at Dr. Hosack's. We found Mr. Eddy at home, with his two daughters, his -son, and partner, who is likewise a Quaker. The family was dressed in -the plainest style, and this simplicity joined to the greatest -cleanliness, prevailed through the whole house. Mr. Eddy is in -possession of a fine library, which he showed us; it contained several -splendid works on natural science; among others, Wilson's American -Ornithology, with the splendid supplementary volume published by Charles -Lucian Buonaparte, son of Lucian Buonaparte. Mr. Eddy then drove with us -to the country-seat of Dr. Hosack, on the East River, opposite the -navy-yard. Dr. Hosack, who was formerly married to a sister of Mr. Eddy, -accompanied us to the Lunatic Asylum. This is five miles from the city, -on a hill, in a very healthy situation, not far from the Hudson River. -The road lies between country-seats and handsome gardens, and it is one -of the most pleasant places I have seen in America. - - [Footnote I-13: [This ornament of human nature, died in the year - 1827.]--TRANS.] - -The asylum is built of sand-stone, is three stories high, and surrounded -by a garden; it was built mostly by subscription, but is likewise -supported by the state government. Mr. Eddy is one of its greatest -benefactors and patrons. There were one hundred and thirty-three -maniacs, by which number the building was almost filled; they were about -to enlarge it by two other wings. Besides the meeting rooms for the -committee in the first story, there are the apothecary's shop, and the -wards for the poor patients, who have a large corridor and sitting room. -One wing of the building is inhabited by the male, and the other by the -female patients. There are subterraneous passages from the corridors to -the large yard, which is surrounded by walls, and serve the patients for -walking, exercise, and play. In the middle of each yard is a shelter -supplied with benches, for bad weather. In the upper stories are the -rooms for the inspectors, and several other apartments where patients -may live separately. In the whole establishment great cleanliness is -observed; but still the institution appeared to me less perfect than the -asylum of Boston, or that of Glasgow in Scotland. The garden is kept in -very good order; there is likewise a hot-house, which is supplied mostly -from Dr. Hosack's collection. On the roof of the house is a platform, -from which we had a very pleasant and extensive view. - -A Philosophical Society hold their meetings in the same building -containing the American Museum. In one of the rooms is a collection of -minerals, not yet very extensive, but exhibiting many fine minerals from -the northern frontiers of the United States. Another saloon contains a -collection of paintings, which do not appear to be very valuable. The -best picture was a portrait of the celebrated American painter, Benjamin -West, who died in London; this picture is from the masterly pencil of -Sir Thomas Lawrence. There are two paintings by Teniers, and two others -by Salvator Rosa. I was particularly pleased with one of the latter; an -old soldier praying in a wild landscape before a simple cross! Two other -paintings are said to be by Rubens: among these I observed a portrait of -Rubens, of which the original is in the collection of Mr. Schamp, at -Ghent. There are likewise good plaster-casts of the best Roman antiques, -of a Venus of Milo, and the three Graces of Canova, and likewise two -gladiators of full size by the same artist. - -The house of Commodore Chauncey[I-14] is situated on a hill in the -navy-yard, which affords a fine view of the wharf and Long Island. The -commodore took a walk with me to the wharf. As I left his house, I was -escorted by a guard of honour of thirty marines, commanded by a captain; -in the meantime the man-of-war Franklin saluted me with twenty-one guns. -This mark of respect was quite unexpected in the United States, and of -course I was the more surprised and flattered. - - [Footnote I-14: Commodore of the navy-yard.] - -In the navy-yard two frigates and two corvettes, not yet named, were -building; one frigate was finished, but was still under cover. Both -frigates are called forty-fours, but carry each sixty-four guns. These -are intended to be thirty-two pounders, which is now the common calibre -of the navy of the United States. The vessels are built of live oak, -from North Carolina; the timbers are salted in order to prevent the -dry-rot. The three ships of the line, Franklin, Washington, and Ohio, -were in ordinary; they are called seventy-fours, but the two first are -each calculated for eighty-six and the latter for one hundred and six -guns. I saw likewise the renowned steam-frigate Fulton the First, of -which many fables have been fabricated in Europe. The schooner Shark, -of eight guns, was perfectly fitted out, and ready to sail in a few days -for the coast of Africa, in order to prevent the slave-trade. - -At a second visit, we first went on board the steam-frigate, Fulton the -First; this vessel is entirely disarmed, and serves as a receiving ship. -She is a floating battery, and was to carry thirty thirty-two pounders. -Her sides are six feet thick, made of oak timbers, which are fixed upon -and crossing each other, so that the vessel may be compared to a -floating block-house. Her machinery resembles that of a team-boat: she -has two parallel keels, between these an engine of one hundred and -twenty-horse power is fixed, and one large wheel is moved by it. The -vessel is very spacious: in several places reverberatory furnaces may be -added, in order to heat balls red-hot. Before this frigate was -dismantled, she carried two small masts with triangular sails, but the -commodore has substituted large masts with the usual sails, for the -instruction of the sailors. The machinery had been taken out for some -months, and placed in an arsenal on the wharf: the place it had occupied -was covered with boards, to make a common deck for the sailors. Since -that time an upper deck has been built, upon which are comfortable -state-rooms for the officers. This frigate has been spoken of as a real -miracle; that she presented towards the enemy a forest of swords and -lances, and threw a stream of boiling water, &c. all of these are -stories. Her construction during the latter part of the war with England -was merely an experiment, though it caused the English a great deal of -anxiety. All competent judges with whom I conversed concerning this -vessel, objected to her and were of opinion that this large body could -only be used to defend straits. She never was at sea, and some feared -that she would be unfit for it. Moreover, as the navy-board at -Washington having objections to the further application of steam to -ships of war, it is probable that they will discontinue the building of -more steam-frigates, although the machinery of a second is already -finished and placed in the magazine. - -We were likewise on board of the two ships of the line, Ohio and -Franklin. The Ohio is of a new construction, and has not yet been in -service; the Franklin and Washington, however, have already made several -voyages. The sides of the Ohio are thicker than those of the other -ships, and her decks higher: all these men of war have not the modern -round, but broad sterns, in each of which is a battery of twelve guns. -Only one of the frigates, still standing on the stocks, has an -elliptical stern, which unites the defensive power of the round, with -the elegance of the broad sterns. - -Every thing appears to be in an improving state at the arsenal. In the -house where the office of the commodore and his agents is kept, there is -a hall fitted up as a chapel; this serves during the week as a -school-room for the midshipmen; we found these young gentlemen engaged -in their mathematical studies, under the direction of the chaplain. - -In the harbour we visited two Liverpool packet-ships, the William -Thompson and the Pacific. Every regular mode of communication between -two places, by stages, steam-boats, &c. is here called a line. Two years -since, I saw the packet-ship Cortez, at Liverpool, and admired her -elegant arrangements; but these two vessels were far superior to her in -regard to elegance and comfort. Both have a large dining room, and in -its centre a long mahogany table; on both sides of the dining room are -the state-rooms, each of them containing two beds one above the other, -and a wash-table. In this cabin there are ten of these state-rooms, five -on each side, and, besides, near the windows in the stern of the ship, -there are two state-rooms having but one bed, so that twenty-two -gentlemen may be accommodated. The mizen-mast passes through the cabin -and table. The cabin is lighted partly by the windows in the stern and -partly by a large skylight; the state-rooms receive their light by -patent deck-lights. There is another room in front of the dining room, -for the ladies, near the mainmast, where the motion of the vessel is the -least felt; on each side of their room, are two state-rooms, for eight -ladies. The sides of the dining room and ladies cabin are of mahogany -and curled maple, with elegant looking-glasses. In the Pacific, between -every two state-rooms there are columns of white marble. All the settees -are of mahogany covered with black horse hair cushions, and the floors -of both cabins are richly carpeted. The stairs which lead into the -dining room, are likewise of mahogany and covered by a shelter, under -which sea-sick passengers may sit on benches. There is likewise a roof -over the poop, where passengers may walk and be sheltered from the rain -and sun. The passage from New York to Liverpool costs but thirty -guineas, for which price passengers are perfectly accommodated. Each -packet is of about five hundred tons, and they sometimes make the -passage in seventeen days. On the 1st and 16th of each month, one of the -eight vessels of this line leaves New York for Liverpool, and on the -same day another leaves Liverpool for New York. - -On the first Sunday of my stay in New York, I visited the new Lutheran -church, with the consul, Mr. Zimmerman. The service was in English, -because there are at New York but few descendants of German parents who -understand the German language. Dr. Schaeffer preached: he is a native -of Philadelphia, and the son of a German clergyman; his sermon was good -and not too long, but after the sermon came a lamentation upon the -miserable state of the church funds, which was not particularly -edifying. There appeared to be a deficit of eighteen thousand dollars, -which the consistory tried to make up by subscription, to which the -congregation was invited to contribute. Dr. Schaeffer's congregation -formerly belonged to an older Lutheran church, still existing in this -city, but they parted from the latter and established a new church, -though rather in too extravagant a style, as their expenses were -disproportioned to their income. The minister besides complained of his -own small salary, and implied that an augmentation would not be -unpleasant to him, as he stood in need of it. - -It is a difficult matter to ride in a carriage through the streets on -Sunday, because there are chains stretched across in front of the -churches, to prevent their passage during service. The land of liberty -has also its chains![I-15] - - [Footnote I-15: [This unwarrantable and exasperating usurpation of - extending CHAINS across the public highways is not attempted by - all religious sects. Through the good sense of congregations it - has been entirely relinquished in some of our cities. That it is - productive of more dislike to _churches_ and _churchmen_ than of - any other result, is a truth which will one day be profoundly - felt.]--TRANS.] - -In this manner eight days soon elapsed, and amusement was not wanting, -as my mind was occupied with interesting and useful novelties. I passed -my time in cheerful and pleasant company. At dinner and evening parties -I continued to make interesting acquaintances with men of different -occupations and professions. I observed that the families I visited were -richly furnished with silver, china, and glass; the fine arts also -contributed to the ornament of their apartments. At the evening parties -we commonly had music and dancing. The dinner parties consisted -generally of from twenty to thirty persons, whose conversation was -generally refined. In New York, as well as at all other places, where -English customs prevail, the ladies leave the table during the dessert, -and the gentlemen keep their seats; however, nobody is obliged to drink, -unless he feels inclined. Every one rises and leaves the house without -ceremony. The servants are generally negroes and mulattos; most of the -white servants are Irish; the Americans have a great abhorrence of -servitude. Liveries are not to be seen; the male servants wear frock -coats. All the families complain of bad servants and their impudence, -because the latter consider themselves on an equality with their -employers. Of this insolence of servants I saw daily examples. Negroes -and mulattos are abundant here, but they generally rank low, and are -labourers. There are but a few slaves in the state of New York, and even -these are to be freed in the year 1827, according to a law passed by -senate of the state. There are public schools established for the -instruction of coloured children, and I was told that these little -ape-like creatures do sometimes learn very well. In the city there are -several churches belonging to the coloured population; most of them are -Methodists, some Episcopalians. A black minister, who was educated in an -Episcopalian seminary, is said to be a good preacher. But there is in -this country a great abhorrence of this class of people, who are obliged -to live almost like the Indian Parias. In the army they are only -employed as musicians, but are never admitted to be soldiers. Soldiers -are not even allowed to be of mixed blood![I-16] - - [Footnote I-16: [Blacks are shipped as seamen in the navy of the - United States, where they stand on the same level with white - seamen.]--TRANS.] - -Colonel Bankhead, of the second artillery regiment, who was on the -recruiting service in this city, offered to show me the fortifications -for the defence of the bay of New York. We sailed in a boat, along with -General Swift and an engineer, first to Governor's Island, opposite to -New York. - -Upon this small island is a fort of red sandstone, called Columbus; it -consists of four bastions, which, on the city side, has still a covered -work between two of the bastions, but further below, in the Narrows, new -fortifications have been built, and therefore Fort Columbus is -considered useless and is neglected. In the interior are the barracks -and arsenals, the former in very good order, and inhabited by a company -of artillery. I found a bible in each room, and was informed that it was -a present from the New York Bible Society. - -West of the fort, near the river, there is a tower after the style of -Montalambert, called Castle Williams. This was commenced in 1803, and -finished in 1811. Colonel Macrea of the artillery in the fort, received -me with twenty-one guns. The officers have lodgings and gardens on the -glacis of the fort; there is likewise a wooden barrack, which serves in -time of war for a battalion of infantry; a large two-story brick house -with a piazza, is intended for the head-quarters of the commanding -general. Opposite to Castle Williams, are two small islands; on each of -them is likewise a battery, called Fort Wood and Fort Gibson. These -batteries appear but small, and the principal defence will be at Castle -Williams, where also I observed furnaces for heating shot. From this -spot there is a particularly fine view of the city. - -We then sailed along the western shores of Long Island, to the straits -called the Narrows, a thousand yards wide, and formed by the shores of -Long Island and Staten Island. They are defended by Fort Tompkins on -Staten Island, and Fort La Fayette on Long Island. We visited the -latter; it is built on rocks in the sea, two hundred and fifty yards -distant from the shores, so that it forms an island. It is a square -building, and erected after a plan of General Swift. From the outside it -has the appearance of a Montalambert tower. The outside of the walls is -of red sandstone, but their interior of gneiss; it was garrisoned by one -company of artillery. During peace a shed was built over the platform, -and a garrison stationed here during the present hot summer. - -Fort Tompkins stands on a height opposite to Fort La Fayette, and on the -shore of Staten Island is a battery which defends the Narrows by a -raking fire. - -On Long Island is another hill near the village of New Utrecht which -commands Fort La Fayette, and in the vicinity there is a bay, where the -English and Hessian army landed in the year 1776, when coming from -Staten Island to take possession of Long Island. In order to defend this -spot sufficiently they are about to build a very strong fort designed by -General Bernard, resembling Fort Francis, near Coblenz, (on the Rhine.) -The casemates, calculated for dwellings as well as for defence, are to -be built under the ramparts, whose front face will be three hundred and -seventy-five feet long: they are to be covered with earth, and a common -rampart erected on top of them. In front of this is a covered way in the -ditch, lower than the ramparts, with six guns, three on each side, for -the defence of the ditch, &c. They were just beginning to build this -fort, which is to be called Fort Hamilton, and the engineer-officers -thought that it would not be finished in less than four years. The -government has experienced the disadvantage of those buildings which -were built by contract, and this well-arranged work will therefore be -built under the immediate direction of government. General Bernard is a -Frenchman; he was engineer at Antwerp, and obtained the attention and -favour of the Emperor Napoleon by his great knowledge and modesty, who -appointed him his aid. In 1815, he entered the service of the United -States, at the recommendation of General La Fayette, and was appointed -in the engineer corps under the title of assistant engineer, with the -salary of a brigadier-general, but without wearing the uniform of the -engineer corps, nor having any rank in the army. - -He is a great acquisition to the corps, and I was somewhat astonished at -the cool and indifferent manner in which they spoke of this -distinguished engineer. The cause, however, of this coolness, -undoubtedly is to be found in a silly misconception of patriotism; for -the general is a foreigner, and frequent experience has shown that a -foreigner in military service seldom enjoys satisfaction. Two new -fortifications are to be built outside of the Narrows on rocks, in order -still better to defend the entrance to New York, by firing crosswise at -vessels, and are intended to serve as advanced posts to Forts La Fayette -and Tompkins. - -A gun-maker, by name of Ellis, received a patent for making -repeating-guns; I visited him in company with Mr. Tromp. A repeating -musket will fire frequently after being once loaded; it consists of a -long tube, in which touch-holes are bored at certain distances, -according to the number of shots it is intended to discharge. The musket -is charged in the usual way, a piece of sole-leather is put upon the -load, on this another charge, and again a piece of leather, &c. until -the required number is introduced, according to the size of the tube. -For each of these loads, whose height is known by a mark on the rod, -there are touch-holes made on the right side of the tube, each of them -closed by a valve. A box is attached to the lock, which primes itself, -and moves downwards from the highest touch-hole to the lowest, until the -shots are gradually discharged, one after the other, and in the same -manner the valves of each touch-hole must be opened. This instrument was -very interesting to me. Mr. Ellis has also made an experiment of his -plan for the use of American troops, but it seems to me that such a tube -would be much too long and too heavy, and the loading would consume too -much time, not to speak of the difficulty of drilling a man to use this -curious weapon. This idea struck me, and my opinion was confirmed as -soon as I tried Mr. Ellis's gun. The experiments I made with it, proved -to me that particular care would be necessary in using it without -danger. A musket of this nature, containing five charges, fired the two -first separately, and the last three at once! - -We also went with Mr. Tromp to several private wharves on the East -river; the largest of these belongs to Mr. Bayard, my banker. On one of -the wharves there was a frigate on the stocks, of sixty-four guns, -intended for the Greeks; they worked very industriously, and hoped that -she would depart for her destination next year. She was built of -Carolina live oak like the government vessels. The advantage of this -wood is said to be, that in addition to its durability, when balls -strike it, they simply make a hole, without many splinters, which latter -generally disable more men than the shot themselves. At another wharf -lay a frigate of sixty-eight guns, with an elliptic stern; she was built -for the republic of Colombia, and is nearly ready for sea; she is built -like a ship of the line. Her gun-deck was so high that I could stand -upright in it.[I-17] On the upper deck the guns were disposed of in an -irregular row, which gave this frigate still more the appearance of a -ship of the line. The three masts raked somewhat like those of a -schooner, which was said to be more fashionable than useful. When we -came on board they were just finishing the officers cabins; they were -built of mahogany and maple, roomy, and the state-rooms long, so that -the officers are very comfortably situated. The cabins as well as the -mess-rooms were below deck, therefore not in the way during an action. -In the battery were only the rooms of the captain. There were also two -other men of war on the stocks, of smaller dimensions, which are also -said to be intended for Colombia. The guns of all these ships were -manufactured at Mr. Campbell's foundry, near West Point. - - [Footnote I-17: [The duke, it will be recollected, was rather - above six feet in height.]--TRANS.] - -The house of the American Bible Society, to which I was accompanied by -Mr. Eddy, was built by voluntary contributions of its members, and has -been three years finished. It is four stories high, built of red -sandstone and brick, and cost twenty-two thousand dollars. In the -basement story is the office and place of deposit for bound bibles, -which lie on shelves, ready to be sent away. The English bibles are sold -at one dollar and forty cents, and the Spanish, of which a great number -are printed and intended for South America, for one dollar and fifty -cents. They also sell a great many new testaments separately. - -In the office I saw a great collection of old and new bibles; among them -I observed Walton's Polyglot, of which I had already seen a copy in the -library of Harvard College, near Boston; an old bible, printed in -Switzerland, in the old German text; also a new very elegant folio -bible, printed at Zurich; one in Irish, with the most singular type; -a bible half in the Sclavonic and half in the Russian language; in -showing the latter they told me that bible societies were prohibited in -Russia; also two bibles in Chinese, one printed at Calcutta, and the -other at Macao. The printing-office and the bookbindery of the society -are in the second, third, and fourth stories of the building, and are in -charge of a bookbinder and printer under certain contracts. In the -garret they dry the fresh printed sheets. The English and Spanish bibles -are stereotyped; they have now in operation twelve or thirteen presses; -these presses are made of iron and very simple, but without a drawing a -description of them would be unintelligible. To every press there is a -workman, and a boy whose business it is to ink the form. At the -bookbindery several women and girls are engaged to fold the sheets. -These persons work in the third story, and in order to separate them -entirely from the males, there is a separate stair for them to ascend. -The large hall where the members of the bible society meet, is decorated -with two portraits, one of Governor Jay, and the other of Dr. Boudinot, -first president of the society. - -The high school was also built by subscription; in this building three -hundred boys are educated, not gratuitously, as in Boston, but by a -quarterly payment, according to the class the boy is in. In the first -class every child has to pay three dollars, in the second, five, in the -third, seven dollars; the mode of instruction is the Lancasterian. In -the lower classes are small children, some only four years old; they -learn spelling, reading, writing, and the elements of arithmetic. The -boys are generally commanded by the sound of a whistle, like sailors; -they rise, seat themselves, take their slates, and put them away, form -classes in order to change the different courses of instruction, all of -which is done at the whistle of the instructors. In the middle class -education is more extended; the children are instructed in grammar, -English, Latin, history, geography, physics, and make likewise -considerable progress in mathematics. In the highest class the boys are -instructed in the higher mathematics, and are prepared to enter college. -As I entered the school they were just receiving instruction in -geography. The teacher asked, where is Weimar? The answer was, on the -Rhine. The instructor then informed the children of the meritorious -share my forefathers had in the Reformation, and praised the -encouragement given in modern times to literature in Weimar. He spoke -altogether with great enthusiasm of German literature, and concluded by -wishing that the time might soon come, when instruction in the German -language should be given at this school. As I left the room the scholars -spontaneously applauded me, and I confess I was affected by it. In this -higher class the orders are also given with a whistle, combined however -with a small telegraph, which stands on the desk of the principal. This -school, which is only seven years old, is already in possession of a -very handsome mineralogical cabinet, and a small philosophical -apparatus. - -The institution for juvenile offenders is situated out of town; it is -for children condemned by the court to imprisonment, and are thus -confined in a separate prison to improve their principles by education. -When they are improved, and have some education, they are then bound out -to a farmer in the country, but if they are of an untameable -disposition, and need stronger control, they are then disposed of as -sailors. The girls are bound out as servants in the country. In order to -have a good location for this institution, the society bought, of the -United States government, a building, heretofore used as an arsenal, but -become useless to the government on account of its distance from the -water. It has existed but one year, and has at present forty-four -juvenile delinquents. The sexes are separated, and each child occupies a -distinct chamber. During the day they are mostly employed in learning, -and in domestic occupations. As the building was not sufficiently large -to receive all the offenders, a new one was built in the rear of the -first, which the boys were employed in erecting. One of the boys who had -escaped twice, walked about with an iron chain and heavy iron ball -secured to his leg. A young man of respectable family, sixteen years -old, who was imprisoned for his great propensity to stealing, was -employed as a sub-instructor, account-keeper, and sub-overseer of the -institution. Hopes are still entertained that he may be reclaimed. - -From this institution, Mr. Eddy led me to another establishment, also -founded and supported by voluntary contributions, viz. the Orphan -Asylum. The house, in which there are one hundred children of both -sexes, is in a very healthy situation; the rooms are large, and the -children sleep in wards, which contain twelve beds. They are instructed -in reading, writing, arithmetic, particularly in mental calculation, and -at the age of twelve years they are bound out to farmers. Several of the -boys were very expert in mental calculation, and solved the following -questions with great facility:--How much is three hundred and twenty -multiplied by three hundred and forty; how many days constitute three -years seven months and twenty-one days? The manner of instruction is -Lancasterian. The principal directors of this institution are Friends, -among whom Mr. Collins is said to be the most distinguished. - -With Mr. Eddy, I also visited the state-prison, which contains about -five hundred and fifty prisoners of both sexes, and can receive seven -hundred. The building stands in the village of Greenwich, was built -about twenty years, and at that time stood quite insulated; since that -period the population has so rapidly increased, that Greenwich is united -with New York, and three sides of the prison are surrounded with rows of -houses; the fourth faces the Hudson river. In front of the house are the -offices and stores, behind this are two courts, which are separated by a -church; one yard is for males, and the other for females. The dwellings -surround the yards, and are three stories high. The prisoners sleep -eight in a room, on straw mats, covered with woollen blankets; every -sleeping room is separately locked; the eating-hall is spacious; the -fare, good brown bread, soup, and three times a week meat; on other -days, fish. The workshops are in appropriate buildings, partly built of -wood, standing in separate yards. You find among them all kinds of -handicrafts, and all domestic utensils and clothing are manufactured. -Articles intended for sale, are generally wooden ware, brushes, and -other household utensils. The prisoners receive no money, and if they -are backward in working, or otherwise behave ill, they are subjected to -solitary confinement, which soon brings them to their senses. There is -nothing to object to this building, except that the stairs are of wood, -and there is otherwise too much wood about the house, which appears to -me dangerous, in case of fire. - -On the second Sunday of my stay in this city, I went with the consul, -Mr. Zimmerman, to a German Lutheran church, where the venerable Mr. -Geisenheimer, performed the service in the German language. It was a -curious accident, that, when I entered the church, they sung an ancient -hymn, which was composed by Duke William, of Saxe-Weimar. My ancestor -certainly never expected that one of the unworthiest of his descendants -should, for the first time in his life hear, in the new world, that he -had composed church music, and that this hymn should originally greet -his ears in New York. The church is very old and inelegant; the -congregation was plain: however, they are not in debt, and the church is -moreover said to possess a good fund. The organ was good, and the -performance of the organist pleasing. - -I twice visited the theatre; in Chatham Theatre, situated at the -extremity of a public garden, they performed the melo-drama of the Lady -of the Lake tolerably well. I was much pleased with the inside of the -theatre, and particularly with the decorations; it was full of people, -and the heat extreme. Ladies of the first fashion do not go often to the -theatre. In the pit persons pulled off their coats, in order to be cool. -At the Park Theatre, so called because it is situated near the Park, the -drama of William Tell was performed, and the after-piece of Love, Law -and Physic. The first is by no means an imitation of Schiller's drama, -but entirely dressed up in English taste, with a full share of battles. -Whenever any observation was made in favour of liberty, the pit -applauded. The decorations were very handsome, and I was pleased with -the internal arrangement of the theatre, but the spectators were not -numerous. The visitors of the theatre are entirely unrestrained; the -gentlemen keep on their hats in the boxes, and in the pit they make -themselves in every respect comfortable. - -On the afternoon of the third of October, there was a great procession -of negroes, some of them well dressed, parading through the streets, two -by two, preceded by music and a flag. An African club, called the -Wilberforce Society, thus celebrated the anniversary of the abolition of -slavery in New York, and concluded the day by a dinner and ball. The -coloured people of New York, belonging to this society, have a fund of -their own, raised by weekly subscription, which is employed in assisting -sick and unfortunate blacks. This fund, contained in a sky-blue box, was -carried in the procession; the treasurer holding in his hand a large -gilt key; the rest of the officers wore ribands of several colours, and -badges like the officers of free masons; marshals with long staves -walked outside of the procession. During a quarter of an hour, scarcely -any but black faces were to be seen in Broadway. - -Mr. J. R. Livingston, a very respectable citizen of New York, whose -country seat is at Massena, near Redhook, about a hundred miles up the -Hudson river, near the little town called Hudson, invited me to visit -him, and be present at a ball. I accepted the invitation, especially as -I was informed I should find assembled there the best society, who -generally reside during the summer in the country. - -The Grymes' family, which arrived at New York not long after me, were -likewise of the party. Consequently we left New York on the 5th of -October, on board the safety-barge Lady Van Rensselaer, for Albany. As -Mr. Livingston had invited several other persons of the best families of -New York, who were all on board, good conversation was not wanting. -About half past five we started, but did not long enjoy the beauties of -this noble river, as it soon became dark. During night we were awakened -with the unpleasant news that the leading boat had run ashore in a fog. -After five hours of useless exertion to get her afloat, we were obliged -to go on board the steam-boat Henry Eckford, passing up the river. This -boat was old, and no longer used for conveying passengers, but as a -tow-boat. She had vessels attached to her, on both sides, laden with -goods, which gave her the appearance of a ferry-boat. Though not very -pleasantly situated on board of this boat, we had a good opportunity of -observing the magnificent banks of the river after the fog disappeared. -Instead of arriving at eight o'clock, A. M. we did not reach our place -of destination till five o'clock P. M. We were received by the owner, -a gentleman seventy-six years old, and his lovely daughter. The house is -pleasantly situated on an elevated spot in a rather neglected park. Our -new acquaintances mostly belonged to the Livingston family. I was -introduced to Mr. Edward Livingston, member of congress, the brother of -our entertainer, a gentleman, who for talent and personal character, -stands high in this country. He resides in Louisiana, and is employed in -preparing a new criminal code for that state, which is much praised by -those who are acquainted with jurisprudence. - -In the evening about eight o'clock, the company assembled at the ball, -which was animated, and the ladies elegantly attired. They danced -nothing but French contra-dances, for the American ladies have so much -modesty that they object to waltzing. The ball continued until two -o'clock in the morning. I became acquainted at this ball with two young -officers from West Point, by the name of Bache, great grandsons of Dr. -Franklin. Their grandmother was the only daughter of this worthy man; -one is a lieutenant of the artillery at West Point, and the other was -educated in the same excellent school, and obtained last year the first -prize-medal; he was then appointed lieutenant of the engineer corps, and -second professor of the science of engineering, under Professor -Douglass. On the following day we took a ride in spite of the great -heat, at which I was much astonished, as it was so late in the season, -to the country-seat of General Montgomery's widow, a lady eighty-two -years of age, sister to the elder Messrs. Livingstons. General -Montgomery fell before Quebec on the 31st of October, 1775. This worthy -lady, at this advanced age, is still in possession of her mental -faculties; her eyes were somewhat dim. Besides her place of residence, -which is handsomely situated on the Hudson river, she possesses a good -fortune. Adjoining the house is a small park with handsome walks, and a -natural waterfall of forty feet. I observed in the house a portrait of -General Montgomery, besides a great number of family portraits, which -the Americans seem to value highly. According to this painting he must -have been a very handsome man. At four o'clock in the afternoon we left -our friendly landlord and embarked in the steam-boat Olive Branch, -belonging to the Livingston family for New York, where we arrived next -morning at six o'clock. - -During the last day of my stay at New York, I received two interesting -visits, one from the Prussian consul at Washington, Mr. Niederstetter, -and the other from a Piedmontese count, Charles Vidua, who has made -several journeys through Scandinavia, Turkey, Asia Minor, Palestine, -Egypt, &c. and is now travelling through America. Afterwards I paid a -few farewell visits. At Mr. Eddy's I found a whole society of Quakers, -men and women; they took much pains to convince me of the excellence of -their sect, and seemed not disinclined to adopt me as one of their -members; at least they desired me to read the letter of an English -sea-captain, who resigned his situation as a captain in the British -navy, and turned Quaker. Mr. Eddy gave me likewise Barclay's Apology for -the Quakers, in German, to read and reflect upon. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - _Journey to Philadelphia.-- Stay in that place.-- Bethlehem and - Nazareth._ - - -On the 10th of October we left the city of New York in the steam-boat -Thistle, which conveyed us to New Brunswick, through a thick fog which -lasted all day. For several days past we had smoky, warm weather, which -was ascribed to the burning of a forest in the state of Maine. - -The shores of New Jersey seemed flat and swampy, resembling very much -the Dutch banks. As we approached New Brunswick, the banks of the -Raritan become higher. On our arrival, eight stages were already waiting -for us, having each four horses, and the passengers were so numerous -that each stage carried from eight to nine persons; we had hardly time -to have our baggage packed, and consequently could see nothing of the -neighbourhood. We continued our journey through New Brunswick, -apparently a busy and well built place, thirty miles by land to Trenton, -on the Delaware. The road led through a hilly country, but carefully -turnpiked, several pits being filled up to make the road even. This road -is formed somewhat according to the manner of German turnpikes, of small -beaten stones, with side-roads and ditches. The neighbourhood is mostly -woody, consisting of chesnuts and oaks. The forest has been regularly -cleared of undergrowth, and has a cleanly appearance. In places where -wood has been felled, the land is well cultivated with corn and fruit -trees. Most of the good-looking houses we passed were provided with -cider-presses. About four o'clock, P. M. we arrived at Trenton, and -immediately embarked in the steam-boat Philadelphia. - -I was very sorry for this great hurry, because I should have liked to -have examined Trenton; it is a very handsome place, and was to me -particularly interesting, on account of General Washington's crossing -the Delaware above Trenton, in the winter of 1776-77, and attacking a -troop of Hessians, of whom he took one thousand four hundred prisoners. -The Hessian Colonel Rall fell in this engagement. This was one of the -best fought battles of the American war. There is, moreover, at Trenton, -a remarkable bridge crossing the Delaware. It consists of five great -suspended wooden arches which rest upon two stone abutments, and three -stone piers. The difference between this bridge and others consists in -this, that in common bridges the road runs over the tangent, but in this -bridge, the roads form the segment of the arch. The bridge is divided in -two roads in order that wagons may pass without meeting, and has also -side-walks for foot-passengers. - -The banks of the Delaware are hilly, well cultivated, and covered with -elegant country-seats and villages. The neighbourhood, and the breadth -of the river reminded me of the river Main, near Frankfort; -unfortunately we could not enjoy this handsome landscape, because as -soon as we arrived on board, we set down to dinner, and afterwards it -became dark. Amongst other little towns, we passed Bordentown, where -Count Survilliers, Joseph Buonaparte, ex-king of Spain, has a very -handsome country-seat, and Burlington. About eight o'clock, P. M. we -reached Philadelphia. Mr. Tromp, who left New York a few days before, -came immediately on board, and conducted us to the Mansion House, where, -though we were not so elegantly lodged as at New York, we found every -thing neat and comfortable. Next morning we drove out early, in order to -get acquainted with the city, which contains more than one hundred and -twenty thousand inhabitants, and to observe some curiosities. We went up -Market street over the Schuylkill. In the middle of this broad Market -street or High street, the first objects we perceived were the -market-houses; the long, straight, uniform streets, which appeared to be -endless, seemed singular to us: they are mostly planted with poplars, -and all provided with paved side-walks. In point of showiness of stores -and bustle, the streets of Philadelphia are far behind New York. - -The two bridges over the Schuylkill are of wood; Market street bridge, -consists of three covered arches of very strong wood-work, which rest -upon two stone piers, and two stone abutments. These piers and abutments -are built upon a rock; the pier on the west side must have cost a great -deal of labour, because the rock on which it stands, is dug out -forty-one feet below low-water mark. It is said, that this pier required -seventy-five thousand tons of stone. The length of this bridge including -the piers, is one thousand three hundred feet, whereof the wood-work -takes up five hundred and fifty feet; the extent of the middle arch -amounts to one hundred and ninety feet, and the two others, each one -hundred and fifty feet. A company, in the year 1798, began this bridge, -and finished it in six years. At the east end of the bridge is an -obelisk, which contains the following inscription: that besides the cost -of the ground on which this bridge and its appendages stand, and which -amount to forty thousand dollars, there were two hundred and thirty-five -thousand dollars expended in building it; about a mile above this bridge -there is another over the Schuylkill, which was finished in 1813, and -cost one hundred and fifty thousand dollars; it is also of wood, and -consists of a single arch, whose segment amounts to three hundred and -forty feet, four inches; a toll is paid for crossing both bridges. - -Somewhat north of the last bridge, and on the left bank of the -Schuylkill are the water-works, by means of which the whole city of -Philadelphia is supplied with water, even to the tops of the houses if -wanting. The water of the Schuylkill is raised by aid of a dam; the -water runs into a basin behind the dam as in a mill-pond; hence it -drives by its fall three wheels, each of them sixteen feet in diameter, -which are in an appropriate building. These wheels work three horizontal -pumps, which force the water through iron pipes into the reservoir, -ninety-two feet above the surface of the river. Within twenty-four -hours, four million gallons of water can be pumped into the reservoirs. -From these basins the water is conveyed by iron pipes into every part of -the city. At certain distances there are hydrants, where hoses can be -screwed on in case of fire. Generally, one wheel and one pump are -worked, the others are kept in reserve, and are only used in case an -extra quantity of water is needed, or in case of fire. This work has now -been in operation for two years; it was designed by Mr. Graff, an -hydraulic engineer; the whole establishment cost four hundred and -thirty-two thousand five hundred and twelve dollars; the daily expenses, -including two overseers, are five dollars. The dam has also rendered the -upper part of the Schuylkill navigable, and in order to unite the upper -with the lower part of the river, a canal with a lock to it, has been -opened along the western side of the dam. - -A high square pyramidal tower attracted our attention; it is a -shot-tower, one hundred and sixty-six feet high. The melted lead, which -is thrown through a tin box, whose apertures are suited to the size of -shot wanting, falls from the whole height into water; while falling it -forms itself into shot and becomes cold as it falls in the water. The -different numbers of shot are intermixed; in order to separate the -perfect from the imperfect shot, they put them in a flat basin, and by a -certain motion in an oblique direction, the perfectly round ones roll -down into a receiver, whilst the imperfect remain in the basin. After -this they throw the good shot into a box of the shape of a bureau, with -rockers like a cradle; the drawers have perforated tin bottoms, the -upper drawer has the largest holes, and the lower the smallest; when the -upper drawer is filled with shot, it is locked, and then the whole box -is rocked for some minutes. Through this the shot is separated according -to the size, and I believe there are fourteen different numbers. In -order to give the shot a perfectly smooth surface, they throw it into a -box which is attached to a wheel turned by water, and in this manner -they are rolled for some time. They are then packed according to their -number, in bags, and carried into the warehouse. - -In front of the state house, whose lower floor is used as a court room, -we saw a great assemblage of people; we heard it was the election of the -common council. This state house is remarkable in an historical point of -view, as being the place where the Declaration of Independence was -signed, on the 4th of July, 1776, and in which the first Congress -assembled, until its removal to Washington City. From the public houses -in the vicinity, flags were displayed, to give notice what political -party assembled there; hand-bills were sent all over town into the -houses, to invite votes. From the tenor of these bills one might have -concluded that the city was in great danger. The election, however, -to our exceeding astonishment, passed over very peaceably.[I-18] - - [Footnote I-18: Here is one of the bills. - - SIR, - - The enclosed _Federal Republican_ Ticket, is earnestly recommended - to you for your support, _This Day_. Our opponents are active-- - Danger threatens-- Every vote is important-- One may be decisive. - Be therefore on the alert-- vote early for your own convenience, - and the public good. Bring your friends to the poll, and all will - be well. The improvement of the city is carefully regarded-- good - order and tranquillity abounds-- general prosperity is every where - apparent. Then secure by your vote _This Day_, a continuance of - the present happy state of things. - - Our mayor is independent, faithful, and vigilant:-- _Who will be - mayor if we fail_!!! Think on this and hesitate no longer, but - vote the whole of the enclosed ticket. - - (Naturalized citizens will please to take their certificates with - them.) - - _Tuesday, October 11th, 1825._] - -The Bank of the United States, which is situated in Chesnut street, is -the handsomest building that I have yet beheld in this country; it is -built of white marble, after the model of the Parthenon at Athens; its -entrance is decorated by eight Doric columns, and large broad steps. -White marble is very common here; the steps of most houses are made of -it. The railings are generally of iron with bright brass knobs; even on -the scrapers at the doors I observed these bright brass knobs. The -private houses are generally built of brick, the kitchens, &c. are -commonly in the cellar. I observed here a very good contrivance, which I -also remarked in various cities of the United States, that there are -openings through the foot-pavement, covered by a locked iron grate, -which serves to throw wood, coal, &c. in the cellar, so that they need -not be carried through the houses. - -I visited several bookstores; the store of Messrs. Carey, Lea & Carey -appeared to be well assorted; Tanner's is the best mapstore. - -The Philadelphia Museum was commenced by an artist, CHARLES WILLSON -PEALE, and was subsequently incorporated as a joint stock company. The -most remarkable curiosity it contains is undoubtedly the famous skeleton -of the mastodon, which has rendered this museum so celebrated. The -height of the shoulders is eleven feet; the length of the animal, -including the stooping of the back, from the point of the head to the -tail, measures thirty-one feet, but in a straight line seventeen and a -half feet; its two large tusks are ten feet seven inches long; one of -the back teeth,--for there are no front teeth,--measures eighteen and a -half inches in circumference, and weighs four pounds ten ounces. The -whole skeleton weighs about one thousand pounds. I was somewhat -astonished that the knee of the fore-foot bends backwards and not -forwards.[I-19] This skeleton was found in a swamp in the state of New -York, and there is a painting representing the colossal machine and -building, by which the skeleton was removed from the swamp. For the sake -of contrast, they have put the skeleton of an elephant next the -mastodon. Under its foot is the skeleton of a mouse. - - [Footnote I-19: [This surprise originated from the almost - universal mistake of considering the _elbow_ of animals as a - _knee_. The anterior extremities of animals are in all respects - analogous to those of the superior extremities of man; hence the - second joint from the shoulder blade uniformly bends backward like - the human elbow. It is not longer ago than the year 1810, that the - present Sir Everard Home, whose pretensions as a comparative - anatomist are well known, almost quarrelled with Mr. Peale, in - presence of Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Heavisides, for insisting - upon the similarity of the anterior limbs of animals to the human - arm!]--TRANS.] - -The academy of fine arts is a collection of paintings and statues. The -best works which we saw belong to Count Survilliers. Among these was the -count's own portrait, robed as king of Spain, the portrait of his lady, -and his two daughters, while yet children, all painted by Gerard of -Paris. There were four busts, one of Madame Mere, the queen of Naples, -Madame Murat, the princess Borghese, and the empress Marie Louise; and -last of all a statue, representing the infant king of Rome, all by -Canova. Amongst other paintings I observed several from the Flemish -school, very few Italian, but some very fine pieces by Granet, which -represented the interior of an Italian cloister. Two large paintings, -one representing the children of Niobe by Rehberg, and the other the -raising from the dead by touching the bones of the prophet Elisha, by -the American painter Allston; both have merit, but I was neither pleased -with the colouring nor execution. The statues are mostly casts, copies -of the most famous antiquities. I observed, however, amongst them, the -Venus of Canova. - -In wandering through the streets I was struck with a building having a -dome similar to the Roman pantheon; it was a Baptist chapel. -I accordingly entered; the interior arrangement was very simple, and -offered nothing remarkable. In the midst of the chapel is the baptismal -font for baptising grown persons; it is a marble bath, something in the -manner of the bath in the palace of Weimar. While speaking on this -subject, I will notice the various sects that have churches in this -city. 1st, Catholics; 2d, Protestant Episcopal; 3d, Presbyterian; 4th, -Scotch Presbyterian; 5th, Covenanters, or Reformed Presbyterians; 6th, -Baptist; 7th, the Methodist; most of the coloured people belong to the -latter sect; 8th, the Friends or Quakers; 9th, the Free Quakers; 10th, -German Lutheran; 11th, German Reformed; 12th, Dutch Reformed; 13th, -Universalists; 14th, Swedenborgians; 15th, Moravians, or United -Brethren; 16th, Swedish Lutheran; 17th, Mount Zion; 18th, Menonists; -19th, Bible Christians; 20th, Mariners Church; 21st, Unitarians; and -22d, Israelites; and all these sects live peaceably in the vicinity of -each other. - -A merchant, Mr. Halbach, to whom I was introduced, took a walk with me -to two gardens adjoining the city. One of these belongs to a rich -merchant, Mr. Pratt, and is situated upon a rocky peninsula, formed by -the Schuylkill, immediately above the water-works. The soil consists -mostly of quartz and clay. The owner seldom comes there, and this is -easy to be perceived, for instead of handsome grass-plots you see -potatoes and turnips planted in the garden. The trees, however, are very -handsome, mostly chesnut, and some hickory. I also observed particularly -two large and strong tulip trees; the circumference of one was fifteen -feet. In the hot-houses was a fine collection of orange trees, and a -handsome collection of exotic plants, some of the order Euphorbia from -South America; also a few palm trees. The gardener, an Englishman by -birth, seemed to be well acquainted with his plants. Through a hydraulic -machine the water is brought up from the river into several basins, and -thence forced into the hot-houses. There was also in the garden a -mineral spring of a ferruginous quality. From several spots in the -garden there are fine views of the Schuylkill, whose banks, covered with -trees, now in the fall of the year, have a striking and pleasant effect -from the various hues of the foliage. The other garden, called -Woodlands, belonged to the Hamilton family. The road led us through the -village of Mantua, which altogether consists of country-seats, and where -Mr. Halbach also has his country residence. Woodlands has more the -appearance of an English park than Mr. Pratt's country-seat; the -dwelling house is large, and provided with two balconies, from both of -which there is a very fine view, especially of the Schuylkill and -floating bridge. Inside of the dwelling there is a handsome collection -of pictures; several of them are of the Dutch school. What particularly -struck me was a female figure, in entire dishabelle, laying on her back, -with half-lifted eyes expressive of exquisite pleasure. There were also -orange trees and hot-houses, superintended by a French gardener. - -The navy-yard, which I visited with Mr. Tromp, was shown us by a -lieutenant of the navy and major Miller of the marines; at the same time -I became acquainted with the naval architect, Mr. Humphreys, who is -considered one of the most skilful in his department in the United -States. Three years ago he visited England and its dock-yards by order -of the government. This navy-yard is not very large, for although ships -are built here, yet they do not leave the yard perfectly equipped, as -the Delaware is too shallow for completely armed ships of the line. On -the stocks there was a ship of the line and a frigate yet incomplete, -which, however, could be made ready for sea in a short time. The former -is to carry one hundred and forty guns, and is said to be the largest -vessel ever built. The frigate was of sixty-four guns. Each vessel had -an elliptic stern, and was under cover. The house which covered the ship -of the line is so large that I counted on one side one hundred and forty -windows. Between the two houses the keel of a sloop of war is to be -laid.[I-20] There was no man-of-war here in actual service, but a small -steam-brig in ordinary, called the Sea Gull, which had returned a few -months ago from the West Indies, where she had been cruising after the -pirates; she was now condemned as unseaworthy, and used as a receiving -ship. Philadelphia is inhabited by many Germans and descendants of -Germans; some respectable people among them have formed themselves into -a German society, which has rendered great services, particularly to the -unfortunate Germans who arrived here some years ago in great numbers. -When those gentlemen heard of my arrival, they invited me to a dinner, -given in honour of me. It took place on the 15th October, in the Masonic -Hall, a large building, erected by the freemasons of this place, whose -basement story contains a very handsome hall, which serves for public -entertainments. The table was set for seventy persons; every thing was -splendid. - - [Footnote I-20: [The Vandalia, recently launched.]--TRANS.] - -Before dinner I was introduced to all the guests present; the -descendants of Germans had almost forgotten their mother tongue; some of -them were lawyers, some merchants, and some mechanics. At the dessert, -several toasts were drank in honour of America and Germany, and also in -honour of me; I of course thanked them in a short speech. Our waiters -were blacks; even the music was performed by blacks, because white -musicians will never perform at public entertainments. After every toast -the music struck up; but our virtuosi were only acquainted with two -German pieces. After drinking my health, they played "a dish and a -song," &c; and after the toast was given of "the German Athens," they -played "Oh thou dear Augustin," &c. After the regular toasts by the -president, Mr. Wampole, were finished, volunteer toasts were drank, -ad infinitum. I soon retired to call upon Mr. Walsh, to whom I was -introduced by letter. - -At Mr. Walsh's I found a numerous assembly, mostly of scientific and -literary gentlemen. This assembly is called "WISTAR PARTY;" it is a -small learned circle which owes its existence to a Quaker physician, Dr. -Wistar, who assembled all the literati and public characters of -Philadelphia at his house, every Saturday evening, where all -well-recommended foreigners were introduced. After his death, the -society was continued by his friends, under the above title, with this -difference, that they now assemble alternately at the houses of the -members. The conversation generally relates to literary and scientific -topics. I unexpectedly met Mr. E. Livingston in this assembly; I was -also introduced to the mayor of the city, Mr. Watson, as well as most of -the gentlemen present, whose interesting conversation afforded me much -entertainment. - -Mr. Shoemaker accompanied us to a Quaker meeting. The Quakers, as is -well known, have no parsons, but sit quietly assembled until the spirit -moves some one. The individual thus excited, then preaches, ad libitum, -whether male or female. The meeting was very quiet when we entered, and -remained quiet for more than an hour; the spirit moved no one; at last -this fatiguing sitting terminated, and we went home unedified. The -church, or rather the meeting-house, is very simple, without the least -ornament; the whole hall is filled with benches, and on an elevated form -sit the elders of both sexes, with those who are in the habit of -preaching. - -A Quaker, Mr. Vaux, is at the head of several public institutions in -Philadelphia. I was introduced to him by Mr. Eddy: he received me -kindly, although using the appellation "_thou_,"[I-21] and promised to -show me these institutions. The first objects we saw in his house, were -paintings and copperplates referring to the first settlement of the -Quakers in this state, and a model of a monument which is intended to be -erected to the memory of William Penn. The model represented an obelisk, -and was made of part of the elm tree under which this great benefactor -of mankind concluded his treaty with the Indians.[I-22] After that we -drove to the new penitentiary, a prison which was built near the -water-works. - - [Footnote I-21: ["Thou," in _German_, is only used in addressing - individuals of the lowest degree.]--TRANS.] - - [Footnote I-22: This took place on the banks of the Delaware, in - Kensington, near Philadelphia. The elm tree was struck by - lightning, a few years ago and destroyed.] - -Efforts have been made to abolish capital punishment in Pennsylvania, -and to substitute solitary confinement, which hitherto has only been -occasionally resorted to in the prisons, for offences committed there; -it is even intended to inflict this punishment for life. It is also -wished to separate prisoners condemned to hard labour, to give them -their tasks in separate cells. For this purpose, a large square yard has -been walled in, each side of which is six hundred and fifty feet long. -This yard has but one entrance, over which is erected a Gothic building, -to accommodate the officers, offices, watchrooms, and hospital wards. -The portal has very much the appearance and strength of the gate of a -fortification. In the middle of this yard is a round tower, which is -intended for the watchmen, and from this central point, six wings run in -an eccentric direction, containing the cells. Each wing consists of a -vaulted corridor, which runs from one end of the wing to the other; -on both sides of each of the six corridors are nineteen cells, whose -entrance is from the outside. There is an opening in every cell, leading -into the vaulted corridor, merely large enough to admit provisions; this -aperture has a small iron door attached to it, only to be opened from -the corridor. To every cell there is a yard, sixteen feet long and seven -feet broad, surrounded by a wall twenty feet high: in this yard leading -to the cell, the prisoner has the liberty of walking, provided the -prisoners in the next cells are locked up. The cell itself is eight feet -long and five feet broad, its entrance is low and small, and secured by -a door and grate. The floor of the cell is of boards, the roof an arch -which inclines outwardly, that the rain may run from it: a patent glass -gives light to the prisoner. There are small apertures in the walls, in -order to admit a current of air, and others to admit heated air during -winter. Every cell has a water-closet, which is connected with the -principal pipe, under the corridor, throughout all the length of the -wings. They are not yet quite decided in what manner the prisoner is to -sleep, whether in a bedstead or on a hammock. - -I do not now wish to enter upon the question whether it is advisable to -abolish capital punishment altogether or not, but I maintain that this -solitary confinement, in which the prisoner is prohibited from all human -converse, without work, exercise, and almost without fresh air, is even -worse than punishment by death. From want of exercise they will -certainly become sickly; from the want of work they will become -unaccustomed to labour, and perhaps lose what skill they may have -possessed heretofore in their trades, so that when restored to the -world, they will be useless for any kind of business, and merely drag -out a miserable existence. No book is allowed them but the bible. It -appears therefore to me perfectly possible, that this insulation of the -prisoner will be injurious to his mind, and drive him to fanaticism, -enthusiasm, and even derangement. When Mr. Vaux asked my opinion of this -prison, I could not refrain from answering him that it reminded me of -the Spanish inquisition, as described by Llorente. Mr. Vaux answered -that it is only an experiment to ascertain whether capital punishment -can be abolished; but notwithstanding this philanthropic view, the -experiment appears to me to be an expensive one, because the building -has already cost three hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and the state -of Pennsylvania will have to expend annually for its support, an immense -sum. The first great object of a government ought to be to provide for -the welfare of its good citizens, and not to oppress them with taxes; on -the contrary, to relieve them as much as possible, as it is hard for the -good citizens to have to maintain vagabonds, for the sake of deterring -others by example, or to render convicts harmless. In this view it -should be the object of the government to arrange the prisons so that -convicts can maintain themselves. When once this is realized, then it is -likewise easier to improve their moral principles. Continued employment -would answer both purposes. If it be possible that the prisoner can earn -a little surplus money, in order that when he returns to society he may -be in possession of a small sum for his pressing necessities, I believe -it would be much better than any philanthropic experiment.[I-23] - - [Footnote I-23: [Both sides of this question are warmly and ably - defended by philanthropists of high character and unquestionable - benevolence. The reader will find in the late correspondence - between ROSCOE and Mr. Roberts Vaux, of Philadelphia, the - arguments urged for and against the system.]--TRANS.] - -The county jail contains prisoners who are waiting for trial; they are, -however, seldom confined longer than one month before they receive -sentence. The house consists of a principal building and two wings; the -one for males, the other for females. In the centre building are the -offices, dwellings of the keepers and watch, as well as the infirmary, -where the patients have good bedding, and are carefully nursed. In the -wings are long corridors, with rooms on each side, which are closed -during the night with iron doors. About eight prisoners sleep in one -room, they sleep on the floor, and have only two blankets, to sleep upon -and cover themselves. The floor is of boards, and I was delighted at the -great cleanliness prevailing through the whole house. At the end of each -wing is a yard where the prisoners walk, and in each yard there is a -shed under which they work. The men I found busy pulling horse-hair, and -most of the females at their usual domestic occupations. Even here we -perceived the great distinction between the white and coloured races. - -The number of female prisoners of both colours was nearly equal, and the -coloured were not permitted to sit on the same bench with the white; the -coloured were separated to the left! I procured a sight of the register, -and was astonished to see that in this free country a magistrate has the -right to imprison a person for two days, for cursing in the streets, as -I found in the book. There are also in the county jail several cells for -solitary confinement, narrow dark holes, in which it must be -insupportably hot during the summer. Those who are of savage behaviour -are confined in these cells, and kept there till they become civil. - -Of the charitable institutions, we visited first, the Orphan Asylum, and -then the hospital for widows, which stand near each other. They owe -their origin to the donation of a lady, which has been increased by -voluntary contributions, and is now under the direction of a board of -ladies, mostly Friends, who are aided by the advice of a few select -gentlemen. In the Orphan Asylum were ninety children of both sexes, who -remain till they are twelve years of age, and are then bound out to -learn a trade. They are educated in the same way as the orphans at New -York. During the hours of recess, the children run about in a garden; -the house is very cleanly, the bed-rooms are spacious, and each contain -twenty beds; nevertheless, two children have to sleep in one bed. - -Some years ago, the house caught fire, and the conflagration was so -rapid that more than thirty children perished in the flames. In -rebuilding the house, they had the praiseworthy consideration to banish -wood entirely from the building, and even the stairs are of stone. The -Widow's Asylum is tenanted by helpless widows, over which the -above-mentioned board also have control. They are boarded, clothed, and -nursed as long as they live. The rooms are occupied by one or two -persons each, and there is a common sitting and eating room. In this -establishment great cleanliness is also observable. - -The large and celebrated hospital of Philadelphia was established by the -Quakers, and is under their direction. It owes its origin to voluntary -contributions and posthumous donations. It is surrounded by a garden, -and consists of a main building with two wings, besides other separate -buildings, one of which is used for incurable lunatics, another for -venereal patients, and others for household purposes and stables; for -they here keep carriages, in which the convalescents ride when it is -allowed. Behind the principal building is a kitchen garden, with a -hot-house that contains many exotic plants. A particular building has -been erected for the painting of Sir Benjamin West, who was a native of -Philadelphia, and presented it to the hospital. The subject of the -painting is Christ healing the sick. Neither the composition nor the -execution of this painting appear to me to be successful; and perhaps it -is only here, where they are unaccustomed to see great and well executed -paintings, that this could excite such astonishing admiration as it has -done.[I-24] It is really singular that near this painting, which -certainly has some merit, they should hang a little picture, -accidentally discovered in the city, which was daubed as a first essay -by the same artist, when young. - - [Footnote I-24: [Perhaps, had his highness known that this picture - was long exhibited and admired in London by amateurs and artists, - who certainly are _somewhat_ accustomed to seeing good pictures, - he would not have pronounced so decidedly from a very cursory - examination. There is nothing, however, which the Duke of - Saxe-Weimar says concerning the fine arts, in these travels, to - entitle his opinion on paintings to any authority.]--TRANS.] - -The hospital is three stories high; in the lower story are the offices, -the apothecary, the rooms of two physicians, one of whom must always be -in the house, and the library, which contains a very handsome collection -of books on medicine and natural history. As a sort of antiquity, they -show here William Penn's arm-chair; a leaden statue, made in England, of -this eminent man, of full size and in the Quaker dress, stands in the -square in front of the house. Corridors run through both wings, and -thence you enter the rooms, each containing twelve patients; they are -under the care of female nurses, and lay on wooden bedsteads; only the -maniacs have them of iron. Throughout this house extraordinary -cleanliness is observed. To the melancholy, every species of employment -is permitted, provided it does not interfere with their own safety or -that of other patients. Some worked in the garden, two were occupied as -cabinet-makers, and a lock-maker from Darmstadt was engaged two years in -making a musket, for which he has prepared a colossal lock of wire and -tin. - -When I returned from this remarkable institution, I received a visit -from a literary gentleman from Leipzic, Mr. Rivinus. This young man had -already been two years in this city, collecting observations on America, -to make known in Germany. I was much interested by him. He appeared to -me well suited to gather information concerning the new world and to -present it to the old; perhaps he may contribute to make German -literature known to the Americans. - -Mr. Vaux had the politeness to accompany me to some literary -institutions. We went first to the Franklin Library; this collection, -which amounts to thirty thousand volumes, was established by voluntary -subscriptions, and is supported by the same means. The subscribers have -the right to take books home with them; the library contains likewise a -large collection of copperplates, and amongst others a handsome edition -of Hogarth's prints. The library is arranged in two great halls, and as -a curiosity they show Dr. Franklin's library chair. The statue of this -famous man stands in a niche over the entrance of the house, and was -presented, as the inscription says, by Mr. Bingham, the meritorious -father of Mr. Bingham of Montreal. After that we went to the -Philosophical Society, which also owns a building, and possesses a rich -library and cabinet.[I-25] The librarian, Mr. John Vaughan, a venerable -gentleman, equally esteemed for his benevolence and urbanity, performed -the honours. He showed us the handwriting of several celebrated -individuals of the revolution. The cabinet contains, amongst other -things, a mineralogical cabinet, a collection of shells, &c. Finally, we -went to the State House, and saw the plain and not very large hall in -which the Declaration of Independence was signed on the 4th of July, -1776. This hall is decorated with a wooden statue, the size of life of -President WASHINGTON; on the pedestal is the following inscription: -"First in war, first in peace, first in the hearts of his countrymen." - - [Footnote I-25: [The library of the American Philosophical Society - is one of the most valuable collections in the United States, and - is richer in the Transactions of other learned societies than any - in our country. The Duke states in the original that books are not - lent from this library, which is so erroneous that we have not - repeated it in the translation. Members of the society enjoy a - free use of the books, and literary men properly recommended are - always able to obtain advantageous access to the library.]--TRANS.] - -On the 18th of October, I travelled in the stage to Bethlehem, a place -settled in the year 1741, by the evangelical congregation of Moravians. -It was impossible to me to leave the state of Pennsylvania without first -visiting this society, which is highly esteemed here on account of their -usefulness, morals, &c. Mr. Vaux gave me a recommendatory letter. - -Bethlehem is fifty-two miles from Philadelphia; as the intercourse -between both places is not very great, the stage goes but twice a week -from each place. Day had not dawned when I left Philadelphia; the stage -was very full, and the weather was uncommonly cold. As stage companions, -I became acquainted with two Messrs. Rice, members of the Moravian -Society, and inhabitants of Bethlehem, and found them very amiable, -sensible, and well-informed men. One of them had travelled in Germany, -and both spoke very good German. We changed horses twice, and also the -stage, which unfortunately was worse at each change, the first time at -Whitemarsh, and the second at Quakertown; the road was mostly turnpike, -and somewhat resembled our German roads, except that the stones thrown -on the road were rather too large, and the path was not well filled up. -After having changed horses the second time, we went on a lately made -turnpike, the stones not having been travelled on. The latter part of -the road was not yet turnpiked, and resembled a rocky bye-road, but, on -account of the dry season, was the most comfortable. The agriculture of -this region shows that the country has already been long under -cultivation. The houses are mostly strong, built of blue limestone, and -covered with shingles. There has been considerable expense bestowed on -the barns, most of them have the appearance of churches. The fields and -meadows were fenced, mostly with zigzag, commonly called worm-fences. -Corn was still standing on the fields, but they had begun to gather it. -The winter grain had already sprouted, and had a pleasing appearance. -The trade in wheat flour is carried on very largely in Pennsylvania; -this flour has very justly obtained a good reputation, and is much -sought for in the West Indies; no where, not even excepting Europe, have -I eaten as good bread as in this state. The original forests have been -eradicated, and you see very few old and handsome trees as in the state -of New York; the wood, however, has grown again, and consists mostly of -large-leafed oaks, chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees; the soil is -partly limestone, and partly clay. In the neighbourhood of Bethlehem, -the soil is mostly limestone; there are a great many rocks, and you -observe here the earth often crumbled, as is the case in calcarious -mountains. The inhabitants are mostly descendants of Germans, emigrants -from Wirtemberg, who still retain their language, although in an -imperfect state. They print here for the country people, newspapers and -sheet almanacs, in American German. The difference is already -perceptible in the state of Pennsylvania which exists between the -southern and northern states in the education of the lower classes: -it is said to be still more striking in the southern states. They -particularly complain that the former German farmers did not send their -children to school at all; lately, however, they have become more -ambitious, and attend the schools, because the legislature of -Pennsylvania has passed a law, that no citizen shall sit on a jury -unless he can read and write the English language. The German farmers -consider it an honour to be called upon a jury, but find themselves -deprived of that honour on account of their ignorance. They now, -therefore, have their sons instructed in English. I saw in the woods two -small octagonal houses, and was informed that they were schools, which, -however, were never frequented. - -In many villages where you see handsome brick buildings, stables, and -barns, the school is a simple log-house, much worse than the -school-houses I have seen among the Indians. There is no want of -churches, mostly Lutheran, some Calvinist, Quaker meeting-houses, -Anabaptists, and Menonists. Between Quakertown and Bethlehem, the former -called so on account of its having been originally settled by that sect, -but now inhabited mostly by Germans, there is a parish of Swiss -Menonists, which they call here Dunkards, because the men let their -beards grow. As we passed through, there happened to be the funeral of a -young girl, and almost the whole congregation followed the coffin. -Between four and five o'clock, P. M. we reached Bethlehem, and staid in -Bishop's tavern, which was very cleanly, and well managed. - -Bethlehem is very handsomely situated, partly in a valley, and partly on -a hill near the river Lehigh, into which empties the Manokesy brook. -Very near the town there is a wooden bridge over the river, which was -built in the year 1791, and rests upon three stone pillars, and over the -brook there is a newly-built stone bridge of two arches. The moment you -behold Bethlehem, you are pleased with it: opposite the town, on the -right bank of the Lehigh, are rather high mountains, overgrown with -wood. The brick houses of the town are situated amphitheatrically; above -all the houses, you see the church with a small steeple, and the whole -is crowned by the burying-place, which lies upon a hill, and is planted -with lombardy poplars. The fields around the town are excellently -cultivated, and the landscape is bounded by the Blue Mountains, eighteen -miles distant, a long range of mountains with no one distinct summit, -but with some openings through. The streets in Bethlehem are not paved, -but planted with poplars, and provided with broad brick side-walks; the -houses are built either of blue limestone or of brick. The greatest -building in this town, which formerly served as the house for the -brethren, is now occupied as a young ladies boarding-school. There is -also here an arched market-place, where butcher's meat is sold. On the -place where Bishop's tavern now stands, not long ago stood a little -frame building, which was built at the time Bethlehem was founded by -Count Zinzendorf. The town has about seven hundred inhabitants, mostly -tradesmen and merchants. The clergy consists of Bishop Huffel and the -two preachers, Messrs. Seidel and Von Schweinitz; the latter is the -great grandson of Count Zinzendorf, he was just absent on a voyage to -Germany, where he met the general synod in Herrenhut. - -One of the Messrs. Rice introduced me into the tavern, and gave notice -to the clergy of my arrival; shortly after, I received a visit from Mr. -Seidel, a Saxon by birth, who has resided nineteen years in the United -States. I found him a very friendly and pleasant gentleman, and had a -long conversation with him. I also met with an old man from Eisenach, -by the name of Stickel, who came to this country as a surgeon with the -Hessians, and for some years past had taken up his residence in this -tavern, where he acts as cicerone to the strangers. - -Next morning I received another visit from parson Seidel, and went with -him to Bishop Huffel; the bishop is a man of about sixty years of age, -also a Saxon, and a very friendly man, who has travelled much and speaks -pleasantly. He had a very handsome collection of minerals, particularly -of American marbles; Mr. Seidel resides with him in the oldest dwelling -of the town, which has quite the appearance of the house of a country -parson in Germany, and has even German locks and bolts to it; in this -house is a large hall, which formerly served the parish as a church -until the church was finished. I visited the church, escorted by the two -divines; the arrangements are quite simple, a white hall with benches, -and a somewhat higher seat for the clergy, with a table before it; the -church has a very fine organ, which was made at New York. The bishop, -who is a good performer on the piano, had the goodness to play for me on -the organ. From the steeple of the church is a handsome prospect of the -surrounding neighbourhood, the Lehigh, the mountains of the same name, -and the Blue Mountains. In the church building, next to the large hall, -are several chambers, where they formerly kept school, before the new -school was built, but now the elders hold their conferences in it, and -the smaller meetings of the parish. By building this new church, the -parish incurred a debt; the building, however, is not very tasty. The -burying place of the congregation is upon a small hill, and resembles a -garden planted with trees. The graves are in rows, a simple stone lying -on each, containing the name, birth, and time of death of the departed. -This morning I observed by a circular notice, the death of a young lad -who died last evening; in order to give notice of his death, they played -with trumpets the tunes of three hymns from the steeple, early in the -morning; certainly a very simple and touching ceremony! The corpse is -put in the corpse-house, and the burying takes place in presence of the -whole parish. Not far from the burying place, upon an elevated spot, is -a cistern, in which by means of a forcing machine, the water is carried -from the brook, and thence all the houses and streets are supplied with -water. - -After that we went to the dwelling of the sisterhood; all the old maids, -and some younger ones of the parish, who have no parents, live together. -Heretofore, all the unmarried women were obliged to live in the -sister-house; but this has been changed since, and those who have -parents, live with their families. Those sisters who live together, have -either each a separate room, or several have a sitting room together. -They support themselves by selling female utensils, which they -manufacture. There is no house for the brotherhood, because young -industrious labourers in this happy land, where there are no taxes, can -support themselves very well. The ground on which the houses stand, -belongs to the parish, and every man, who wishes to build here, has to -pay a certain ground rent. There is, however, here no community of -goods; every one has to work for, and to support himself, and the parish -only assists him when he has become poor by misfortune. - -After this interesting ramble I visited Mr. Rice, who is a merchant, -owner of a mill, and is particularly engaged in the flour business; -he also keeps a store, where every article is to be found, which the -country people are in need of; from cloth, and fine linen, down to -common wagon-screws. After that, I dined at home in the lively company -of six young ladies from Providence, who also came to finish their -education here in the boarding-school; as in Germany, the brothers have -boarding-schools, where children, whose parents do not belong to the -society, are carefully educated. The female school is at Bethlehem, and -the male school in Nazareth. - -After dinner I took a ride with Dr. Stickel, in order to examine a new -lock, lately established on the river Lehigh. Within a few years they -have opened important coal works, about thirty miles from this place, -at Mauch Chunk, on the other side of the Blue Mountains; these mines -furnish Philadelphia and the neighbourhood with the well-known Lehigh -coals, which are much better than the English coals. These coals were -formerly shipped in light boats near the pit, and floated down the -Lehigh into the Delaware to Philadelphia, and the boats were then broke -to pieces and sold, on account of the falls and strong current of the -Lehigh, which prevented their return. As even the navigation down the -river was frequently obstructed on account of low water, and incumbered -with difficulties, the company owning the mines, made a dam in the -river, through which canals pass with locks, by means of which they have -improved the navigation. - -In the vicinity of the Lehigh, there are many limestone rocks; these -they explode, partly for the purpose of having heavy stones, which are -thrown on the dams, partly for burning them to lime. The burned lime is -not only used for building, but also as manure for the fields. - -We returned from the locks to Bethlehem by another road; on account of -their distance from the coal pits, these locks are called the -thirty-seven mile locks. We passed through a well cultivated valley, -wherein is situated a place called Butstown, settled by Germans, and -consisting of a few neat brick buildings. Thence the road passed through -an oak-wood, which appeared to be in very good order, and belonged to -the brotherhood. In the evening I went with Mr. Seidel to a concert, -which the amateurs of the town gave. In the town-school is a room -appropriated for these concerts, which take place weekly. The orchestra -consisted of eleven musicians, all of whom were mechanics of Bethlehem, -who very successfully practiced this art as amateurs. The greatest part -of the religious service of the brotherhood consists of music; for this -reason music constitutes a principal part of their education. The music -was fine beyond all expectation; I heard very good male and female -singers; amongst others were Mr. Seidel and one of the young female -ushers of the boarding-school, Miss Humphreys. Finally, the good Bishop -Huffel had the politeness to amuse us, to our great gratification, by -performing fancy pieces of his own on the piano. After the concert I -remained a few hours with Mr. Seidel, his wife is a German by birth; -moreover, I made acquaintance with a preacher, Mr. Frueauf, a native of -Dietendorf, near Gotha; he married a sister of Mr. Von Schweinitz, and -lives on his income; I found in him a friendly old gentleman, who was -rejoiced to meet a countryman. Moreover it was no trifling gratification -to me, to have conversed this whole day in German, and to hear that -language spoken in purity, which is hardly ever the case in other parts -of America. - -On the third day of my stay at Bethlehem, Mr. Frueauf called for me, for -the purpose of riding with me to the brotherhood of Nazareth, which is -ten miles distant. The road passes partly through a well kept wood, and -partly through a well cultivated country. A great many single farms, -which we passed, showed the wealth of their owners. One of the places we -passed, is called Hecktown; this name originated from a waggery of Mr. -Frueauf, on account of the fruitfulness of the inhabitants, who increase -and multiply very fast. Nazareth is also very well built, and resembles -Bethlehem, only it is, if it be possible, still more quiet. The town was -laid out in the year 1744, and the large brick building, which is now -used as the boys boarding-school, was originally intended for the -mansion of Count Zinzendorf. This district has about five hundred -inhabitants, including the adjoining parish called Schoeneck, they are -mostly mechanics and farmers. There were two clergymen, Mr. Van Vleck, -son of the ex-bishop of Bethlehem, and Mr. Ronthal, a native German, who -was long pastor of the parish of Sarepta in Russia. - -We first visited Mr. Van Vleck, and then inspected the society's garden; -it is situated on the slope of a hill and has some pavilions and -handsome promenades. Then we went in the boarding school, in which sixty -boys receive their education; forty board in the house, and twenty -reside with their parents, in the village. This school is likewise for -children of different denominations, and is generally praised. -Immediately on my entrance, I remarked the great cleanliness of the -house. The scholars are divided into four classes, and are not received -till they are eight years old. The tutors are mostly Germans, or at -least speak that language, which is taught to the boys by particular -desire of their parents. The school possesses a good cabinet of natural -history, which is kept in good order, and has a collection of eggs of -various birds of the neighbourhood, gathered by the scholars. The -scholars sleep in common in two great halls, two superintendents sleep -in each of them. They eat in common and take a long daily walk, under -the guardianship of their tutors. Besides the common school rudiments, -the French, German, and English languages, they are taught drawing, -music, and Italian book-keeping by double entry. For instruction in -music, every class has a piano: a particular room is destined for -religious worship. The boys have all healthy, lively, and open -countenances, and are kept very clean. In the building there is also a -theological seminary for young men who are designed for the pulpit; -there were five pupils studying. These students are obliged to finish -their education in the large theological seminary of Gnadenfeld in Upper -Silesia. On the top of the house there is a gallery, from which you see -the surrounding neighbourhood. Nazareth is situated on rather high -ground, and is only eight miles distant from the Blue Mountains. The -vicinity would be very handsome, if there were more streams in the -neighbourhood, but in these it seems to be deficient. - -After this we went to the sisterhood's house, wherein were lodged -thirty-seven old women, who sleep all in one large hall. In the room -where they perform worship, there is a small organ, as in the sisterhood -at Bethlehem; one of the sisters acts as organist. I observed here, as -well as in Bethlehem, that the old Moravian female costume, particularly -the caps, have gone out of fashion, except some few very old women, and -they now dress in handsome modern style. We visited the parson, Mr. -Ronthal, and the elder of the congregation, Mr. Hoeber. I became -acquainted with a former missionary, Mr. Oppelt, who was many years -amongst the Indians, one hundred miles the other side of Detroit, and -has baptized several of them. He has retired to Nazareth, and was busy -in making preparations of birds. - -On our return to Bethlehem, we went rather roundabout, in order to see a -large farm, which is distinguished in the country on account of its good -management; it is occupied by a native of Nassau, Mr. Schlabach. His -fields are indeed in an excellent situation, as well as all his barns -and farm houses. This proprietor, who is now so wealthy, came over a -redemptioner, and owes his present wealth to his industry and frugality. - -After dinner I went with Mr. Seidel, who is the guardian, to the great -female boarding-school. In the office where the small domestic library -is kept, which not only consists of religious books, but also belles -lettres, voyages and travels, I met the venerable Bishop Huffel, who -accompanied me, with Mr. Seidel, during my inspection of the school. In -this school we found about one hundred handsome young ladies, between -the ages of eight and eighteen years, who are carefully educated, and -who, besides the common school education, are instructed in drawing, -music, and all female accomplishments. They make very fine embroidery -and tapestry, and also handsome artificial flowers. They are divided -into four classes; in every class-room was a piano. I was informed that -they performed their morning and evening devotions by chanting. After -dinner they receive no other instructions but music and female -accomplishments; the latter part of the day is employed in walking in -the large garden, which lies in a vale behind the house. They have also -a hall for prayers, in which stands a piano, and which is often made use -of as a concert room. They sleep in large halls, with the -superintendents, and the girls have a very good appearance. The custom -which prevails in European boarding-schools, of dressing all the girls -in uniform, and distinguishing different classes by different ribands, -does not take place here; every girl dresses as she pleases. The -scholars are from all parts of the United States, even some from -Alabama. - -After having examined this interesting establishment, I walked with the -bishop and Mr. Seidel on the banks of the brook, in order to examine -some works that are situated on the waterside. The first was the work -which forces the water into the cistern, as above-mentioned. By a -conductor from the brook, a water-wheel is set in motion; this wheel -works two pumps, which force the water into iron pipes leading into the -cistern. Not far from this work lives a currier by the name of Mr. -Leipert, who manufactures leather and morocco: in this establishment the -principal machinery is also moved by water. They have two ways here of -raising water, one is by boxes fastened on a large wheel, these boxes -fill themselves with water, when they are below, and throw it into a -gutter, when they come up; the other is by a common pump. - -At last my companions introduced me to a gentleman, who, with trouble -and expense, had established a cabinet of ancient and other coins. This -collection was indeed extensive and valuable, recollecting that it was -in America. - -I spent the evening very pleasantly in the young ladies school; all the -girls were assembled, and gave a musical entertainment, mostly songs -composed for several voices. But as the girls have to retire early, the -entertainment, for which I was indebted to the politeness of Mr. Seidel, -was soon ended. I remained a short time with Mr. Seidel, I then took my -leave of this worthy man, of the venerable Bishop Huffel, and the polite -Mr. Frueauf, with the intention of returning next spring, God willing, -to this lovely spot, with which I was so much delighted. In going home, -I heard the young ladies sing their evening hymn, and received a very -pretty serenade from twenty young folks of the place, who, although they -belong to the brotherhood, serve as the musical band of the militia. -I could not leave this peaceable and quiet Bethlehem without being -affected, whose inhabitants all live united like one family, in -brotherly and sisterly love, and seem all to have the same habits, -acquired by the same education and continued sociability. I returned -with the stage on the same bad road to Philadelphia by which I left it, -but better enjoyed the view of this beautiful, well cultivated and -thickly peopled country. The last part of the road was particularly -interesting to me. In the flourishing villages of Germantown and -Nicetown there are handsome gardens and country-seats of Philadelphians. -In the vicinity of Whitemarsh, I observed the remains of General -Washington's entrenchments. Germantown, originally settled by Germans, -forms only one street, which is above three miles long. During the time -when the English occupied Philadelphia and its vicinity, General -Washington fell upon the English that were in and about Germantown. One -battalion of the British threw themselves into a stone house, and -defended themselves in it until the British army could rally again, and -drive the Americans back. The house is situated in a garden, about one -hundred paces from the road; near the house, in the street, is a well -which supplies the house with water; to keep possession of the well was -of great consequence to the British, and in its vicinity many men are -said to have lost their lives. - -On the ensuing morning I went with Mr. Halbach to Mr. Vaux, in order to -visit under his guidance some other public institutions. At Mr. Vaux's -we met several of the public characters of the city, with whom I had -conversations on various subjects of public utility, such as schools, -punishments, &c. Then we went into a Lancasterian free school, where -five hundred lads are instructed, and several hundred girls of the lower -classes. We did not see the girls; it was Saturday, which is a holiday. -The boys are of various ages, and are divided into eight classes, under -the inspection of one teacher and several monitors. They obey their -instructors by signals, all their motions are made according to these -signals, and they give their answers with the greatest precision. They -exercise their memory by reciting pieces of poetry, and making mental -calculations. They write well and all alike; they also receive -instruction in geography; one of the boys had drawn a good and correct -sketch of Thuringia. They ought to pay more attention to the dress of -the children, for some of them were in rags. The school is supported by -the city, and is under the direction of Quakers. - -Of the courts of justice I will say nothing; they are entirely formed -after the English model. The common law of England is so well known, and -so many huge volumes written upon it, that I need say nothing on the -subject. - -The state prison, which, about fifty years ago, was built for a county -jail, contained ad interim those prisoners which are intended for the -new penitentiary. For this reason this prison is overfilled with five -hundred prisoners; they were not sufficiently watched, and therefore -often riotous. Through a misdirected philanthropy of the Quakers, who -have also the direction of this prison, there are no guards on the -walls, nor in the passages, and but five overseers go continually -amongst the labouring prisoners, and their lives are often exposed. The -inspector of the house, Mr. Swift, seemed no way to favour this system, -which not only does not improve the morals of the convicts, but also -seems to threaten public security. At this time there was a bad feeling -among the prisoners, and they daily expected a riot. The Quakers -themselves, in spite of their philanthropy, seemed to have no great -confidence in the prisoners. In our walk through the prison with Mr. -Vaux, it was evident from his countenance that he felt uneasy, and as -the prisoners were assembled on the large stairs at twelve o'clock, -to go to their dinner, he ensconced himself behind the iron grate. - -The female prisoners occupy one of the wings of the prison, and are -employed in spinning, sewing, knitting and pulling horse-hair, platting -straw, and washing. They sit in long warmed corridors, adjoining to the -doors of their bed-rooms; ten and more sleep in one room, on horse-hair -mattresses with blankets. There are also cells for solitary confinement -established for them; in one of them, four weeks since, a handsome girl -was confined that had been condemned for stealing, and affected to be a -simpleton, deaf and dumb, but during her solitary confinement she began -to speak sensibly, and with good understanding. The male prisoners -inhabit the other wing, and have the whole yard to themselves, where -there are several workshops. Most of the prisoners were busy in the yard -sawing marble, others weave, are tailors, shoemakers, &c. and there are -several good cabinet-makers, who make very fine furniture for the stores -in the city. All hands are busy: the invalids are mostly employed in -pulling horse-hair. In the bake-house of the institution they bake very -good brown bread, and each prisoner receives daily one pound and a half. -The prisoners have a long subterraneous room for an eating hall, which -is lighted with lamps, and receive daily good broth, fresh meat, and -potatoes. They certainly live much better than many an honest man who -has to maintain his family by his industry. A weaver was confined in the -solitary cells, who, in a moment of impatience, had cut through his -thread with a knife, because it was entangled. In each wing there is a -separate nursery for the patients of both sexes. In spite of the great -number of prisoners, great cleanliness is maintained. - -His excellency, John Quincy Adams, President of the United States, had -just returned from a visit to his aged and venerable father near Boston, -and took the room next to mine in the Mansion-house. He had been invited -to the Wistar-Party on the 22d of October, at the house of Colonel -Biddle, and accepted the invitation to the gratification of all the -members. I also visited the party. The President is a man about sixty -years old, of rather short stature, with a bald head, and of a very -plain and worthy appearance. He speaks little, but what he does speak is -to the purpose. I must confess that I seldom in my life felt so true and -sincere a reverence as at the moment when this honourable gentleman whom -eleven millions of people have thought worthy to elect as their chief -magistrate, shook hands with me. He made many inquiries after his -friends at Ghent, and particularly after the family of Mr. Meulemeester. -Unfortunately I could not long converse with him, because every member -of the party had greater claims than myself. At the same time I made -several other new and interesting acquaintances, among others with a -Quaker, Mr. Wood, who had undertaken a tour through England, France, -Germany, Denmark, Sweden and Russia, mostly with the philanthropic view -of examining the prison discipline of those countries. I was much -gratified with his instructive conversation, although I had some -controversy with him on the prison discipline, as he heard that I did -not agree with his views relative to the new penitentiary, of which he -was one of the most active promoters. Mr. Livingston, who has effected -the abolition of capital punishment in the state of Louisiana, was here -lauded to the skies by the philanthropists. God send it success! - -On the following day I paid my respects to the President, and gave him -the medals which Mr. Cornelissen at Ghent had confided to my care. One -silver medal was from the Botanic Society of Ghent, with an appropriate -inscription for the President; the other a bronze medal, which had been -struck in the year 1823, in honour of the Haerlem jubilee on the -discovery of the art of printing; both were sunk by the skilful artist -Mr. Braemt, at Brussels. In the evening I saw the President again, who -honoured with his presence a party at Mr. Walsh's. I had first the -intention of leaving here to-day with the steam-boat for Baltimore, but -the arrival of the President changed my resolution, as I wished to -attend with him the anniversary, which was to be celebrated on the 24th -of October, and then to travel in his company to Baltimore. - -In order to celebrate the day on which William Penn landed in the year -1683 in America, which was the origin of the state of Pennsylvania, -those who respect his memory have established a society, which -celebrates the 24th of October as a public festival. At this time the -celebration consisted of a public oration in the University and a public -dinner. Mr. Vaux called for me at twelve o'clock to go to the oration. -The building of the University of Pennsylvania was originally intended -as a dwelling for President Washington, who declined the present, and it -was then used for the University. A great number of people had collected -in one of the lecture rooms; they seated me within the tribune whence -the orator was to speak; the President, who entered soon after me, was -led to the same place, and received with loud and warm acclamations. The -oration was delivered by a lawyer, Mr. Charles Ingersoll; it contained -rather a statistic account of the state of Pennsylvania than of the -landing of William Penn; this the Quakers did not like, although the -oration was well conceived and generally admired. The orator mentioned a -particular fact, which, as far as I know, is unknown in Europe, viz. -William Penn mentions in one of his writings, of which I had already -seen the original in the library of the Philosophical Society, shown to -me by Mr. Vaughan, that by an act of Charles II. this land was given to -William Penn, and his Majesty, in honour of Penn's father, Admiral Penn, -called it Pennsylvania; he, William Penn, had proposed the name of New -Wales, but the king did not sanction this name; Penn then offered to the -secretary of the king twenty guineas, if he would persuade the king to -call the country merely Sylvania; but even this proposition did not -succeed; the name of Pennsylvania was very unpleasant to him; for they -would think it great vanity in him, although he was very far from being -vain. In his observations concerning the manufactures of Pennsylvania, -the orator went now and then too far. He said, for instance, that -nowhere, not even in Europe, are better carriages made than in -Philadelphia, although the carriages of this place are not the very best -nor the most convenient. The school establishments, however, he pointed -out in a too indifferent light, and confessed complainingly that in the -northern states they were farther advanced than here; he particularly -observed that the University of Pennsylvania was in a poor condition. He -also complained of the dissipation of the lower classes. This oration -was much applauded; the audience likewise exhibited their respect to the -President as he retired. - -I sat next to Judge Peters, a venerable gentleman of eighty-two years of -age, who was secretary of war during the revolution; moreover, I was -introduced here to Mr. Washington, nephew of the hero, and Judge in the -Supreme Court of the United States. He is the heir of his uncle, and -possessor of Mount Vernon, where his ashes rest. After the oration I -inspected the anatomical cabinet of the University; it is not a rich -collection, but has some interesting articles, viz. two wax figures of -full size, which can be taken to pieces; also a collection of human -skulls, among which I remarked particularly the flattened skulls of two -Peruvian Indians, and also a skeleton of a Creek Indian; many samples of -fractured and badly cured human bones, and many curious bones; parts of -the human body, injected or preserved in alcohol, &c. - -At four o'clock, P. M. I drove with Mr. Vaux to the Masonic Hall, where -the dinner was to be given. About seventy persons, mostly gentlemen of -my acquaintance, were present. The President of the United States sat on -the right of Judge Peters, who was president of the dinner, and sat in -William Penn's chair; I sat on the left of this worthy old gentleman, -and on my left was the orator of the day, Mr. Ingersoll. Behind Judge -Peters's chair was William Penn's portrait, painted in oil, and under -that was a copperplate of his well known treaty with the Indians. The -vice-president of the table was Mr. Duponceau, a Frenchman who has -resided in this country forty-seven years, and during the revolution was -adjutant to Baron Steuben; he is a lawyer, and pleads very well in the -English language. This gentleman possesses a rare talent for languages, -and has a particular fondness for the German. Goethe's Faust is his -favourite work, and as I agreed with his taste, we entertained ourselves -for a long time with Faust, alternately reciting our favourite passages. -The first health that was drank, was naturally that of the President of -the United States; his excellency rose, and in a short speech thanked -them heartily; as my health was drank, I also rose, excused my imperfect -knowledge of the English, and begged permission to thank them in the -French language, wherein I could express myself better and more -fluently. I then spoke a few words from the bottom of my heart, -expressing the sincere interest I take in the happiness and welfare of -this country; I congratulated the society on the pious feelings with -which they celebrate the memory of their ancestors, and particularly of -that excellent man who laid the foundation of this great community; -these would be the best security for their future prosperity. -I expressed my gladness at being present on this occasion, to witness -their animated sentiments, thanked them, feeling fully for the kind -reception I had met with, and told them that this festival, which was -still more valuable on account of the presence of the chief magistrate -of this great nation, would never fade from my memory, and that I hoped -to leave behind me friends in the new world when I should have returned -to the old. I concluded with wishes of blessings and happiness. It -appeared to me that my plain address was not unkindly received. The -president retired at eight o'clock, and I remained until ten. Among the -commonly called volunteer toasts, the following were drank: "Weimar, the -native country of letters!" I rose and said, that to this toast I could -only answer by a modest silence, as it was worthy to be answered by a -learned man from Weimar, and unfortunately I could not pretend to be -one. When young, I had left home for a military school, to run my career -in the chances of war, so that the sciences did not enter my door. -I therefore, gave them in reply, the following toast: "Pennsylvania, the -asylum of unfortunate Germans!" This toast was received with great -applause. The venerable Judge Peters[I-26] sung a song, which he -composed the preceding evening, with a great deal of vivacity, and every -one was merry and lively. - - [Footnote I-26: [Recently deceased.]--TRANS.] - -The society have their laws written on parchment, bound in a very -elegant volume. This book was placed before the president and myself, to -sign; we signed it, and by this means became honorary members of this -respectable society. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - _Baltimore._ - - -On the 25th of October, I made several farewell visits, and went on -board the steam-boat Baltimore at twelve o'clock, to leave the dear -Philadelphia to which I had become so much attached. Mr. Tromp had set -out several days before, to meet the Pallas at Norfolk. The President of -the United States came on board of the steam-boat soon after, in company -of several gentlemen from town. At the steam-boat wharf, a crowd of -citizens had assembled once more to see the respected chief of their -government, who is justly venerated by all intelligent men. When the -boat started, the crowd, consisting of well-dressed individuals, cheered -the president, who remained a long time uncovered. We descended the -Delaware about forty miles. This river becomes very large; the shores -are flat, and apparently well cultivated. The president had the kindness -to converse a long time with me. - -I was here introduced to a Mr. Sullivan, from Boston, who seemed to be -much esteemed by the president, and Captain Maclean of the garrison of -Halifax, who was travelling for his pleasure. - -I also met with Mr. De Salazar, ambassador from Colombia, with his -secretary, Mr. Gomes, and the Mexican consul, Mr. Obregon: I had already -made the acquaintance of these gentlemen in New York. Their interesting -conversation, and the moderation of their views gave me much pleasure. - -We arrived at New Castle between four and five o'clock; this is a -well-built little town, situated on the right shore of the river, in the -state of Delaware, whence it is sixteen miles to Frenchtown by land, -where the Chesapeake steam-boats receive the passengers. - -The president being in one of the stages, the drivers went on more -rapidly than customary. The road was in general sandy, and ran through -woods; we did not perceive any villages, as it soon became dark, and the -interesting conversation respecting the scenery ceased. Frenchtown is a -little place, which was burnt and plundered during the last war, by the -British Admiral Cockburn. We went on board the steam-boat Constitution. -This boat was very spacious, and furnished with beds, the machinery, -however, made a great noise, and produced a jarring motion. - -The night was beautiful; the moonlight and the woody shores of the -river, produced a very fine effect. I remained a long time on deck in -conversation with Captain Maclean; no rest could be obtained in bed, as, -in addition to the noise of the machinery, six horses trampled just -above me on deck, and a German mechanic, who was unable to sleep, talked -to himself, near me. We arrived very early next morning at Baltimore. -After our arrival, the president took a carriage for Washington, which -is only thirty-six miles distant. The greater part of the travellers -remained in bed until between six and seven o'clock. I went through the -somewhat solitary but regular streets to the hotel, called the Indian -Queen, where lodgings had been prepared for me. Here I had the pleasure -to meet Sir Michael Clare and his lady; shortly after my arrival, -I received the visit of Mr. Huygens, son to the Chevalier Bangemann -Huygens, ambassador from the Netherlands, at Washington, officer of our -artillery, and attached to the legation. His father had the politeness -to place this young gentleman at my disposal. As soon as I was -established in the hotel, I went out in company with Sir Michael, in -order to see the curiosities of the city. The town is of a regular -construction, and contains, as I was assured, seventy-five thousand -inhabitants. Great projects are formed for increasing its prosperity; -these projects, however, have been somewhat stopped by some considerable -failures. This place has increased with almost incredible rapidity; in -the year 1752, there were only ten houses. The streets are wide, with -foot-walks, some of them are planted as in Philadelphia, with poplar -trees. The city seems tolerably animated; I saw a very great number of -negroes in the streets. The state of Maryland is the first on which I -set my foot where the slavery of negroes is legally maintained. Farther -to the south, this state of things is every where common. I merely -mention the fact; it does not belong to me to give opinions on so -delicate a subject. Still my journey convinced me of the truth of the -old observation, that inaccurate judgments are easily formed respecting -things not sufficiently known, which we have neither seen nor examined -ourselves. We first visited the Washington Monument, situated on a hill. -It is, or rather will be, erected by the state of Maryland; it consists -of a column of white marble one hundred and sixty feet high, it is to be -adorned with bas-reliefs of bronze, representing scenes from the life of -the hero. On the top of the column is to be placed the colossal statue -of this great man. But the requisite funds are wanting; and therefore -these ornaments are not yet finished. We ascended the column by a spiral -staircase of two hundred and twenty-six steps, but did not enjoy a fine -prospect, on account of the misty atmosphere. We visited another -monument, erected to the memory of the citizens who fell in the defence -of Baltimore on the 12th of September, 1814. On a pedestal stands a -column representing a bundle of staves. The names of the fallen citizens -are inscribed on the ribands which unite them. On the top is the statue -of victory; at the four corners of the pedestal, griffins. We remarked -several fine public buildings, among which, some churches were very -distinguished. The handsomest is the Catholic cathedral, the dome of -which, is similar to that of the Roman pantheon. The interior of this -church is richly ornamented, and contains several fine paintings, the -greater part of which, arrived during the French revolution. The -handsomest among them is a descent from the cross, by Gulein, in Paris, -which, according to an inscription, was presented to the church by Louis -XVIII. at the request of Count Menou. It is to be regretted that its -size does not permit it to be placed over the altar. It was suspended -near the entrance. King Charles X. is said to have promised the -companion to this piece. I was introduced in the church to the -archbishop of Baltimore, M. Marechal,[I-27] who is the Catholic primate -of the United States. He is a native of France, and has resided in the -United States since 1792, whither he first came as a missionary. He is -spoken of as a man of much spirit and activity. His exterior is of great -simplicity; he is of small stature, and animated. When he first -addressed me, with his book under his arm, I took him for a French -teacher, but he very soon presented himself to me as the archbishop. - - [Footnote I-27: [Since deceased.]--TRANS.] - -The state of Maryland contains the greatest number of Catholics, with -the exception of the state of Louisiana and Florida, where the -Catholics, on account of their wealth have some influence. Not far -distant from the cathedral is the Unitarian church, tastefully -ornamented on the exterior with columns, and surmounted by a dome. The -English Episcopal church is likewise not far distant; it has a colonade -at the entrance, but a spire without the least taste. The front of the -church is ornamented with two statues, of the Saviour and Moses, by an -Italian sculptor, (still living here,) Mr. Capellano. It is reported -that the inhabitants of Baltimore being very much scandalized at the -horns of Moses, the artist was obliged to take them off. Certain it is, -that the Moses on this church does not wear these ornaments. We saw -another building of recent construction, called the Athenaeum, which was -built by subscription. We found there a small library and reading room -for American and English newspapers, and a concert room. Finally, we -went to a large building called the Exchange. A few hours after this -promenade, Sir Michael and Lady Clare set out for Now York, whence they -intended to embark for Jamaica. To them I was indebted for an -introduction to Dr. Macauley, a respectable physician, whose -acquaintance was the more agreeable to me, as I found him to be an -accomplished man. In his company I rode to Fort M'Henry; this fort is -situated two miles from Baltimore, at the latter extremity of the -isthmus formed by the eastern and western arms of the Patapsco, which -empties into the Chesapeake Bay. This fort was rendered interesting by -the repulse of an attack made by the British the 12th of September, -1814, by water; this well-sustained defence contributed much to the -safety of Baltimore. The English disembarked their troops on the eastern -shore of the Patapsco--these were to attack the city by land, meanwhile -the fleet was to bombard, and to take Fort M'Henry. The landed troops, -whose general, Ross, was killed, met with such resistance from the -citizens that they were compelled to retire with considerable loss; the -attack on Fort M'Henry had no better success. The English bomb-ships -were anchored too far from the fort to allow the shells to do much -mischief. Not being able to obtain any advantage from this side, they -embarked troops in boats the following night, which, by aid of the -darkness, passed the fort, and entered the western branch of the -Patapsco. But they were discovered in time, and repelled by the -batteries situated above the fort. The fort itself is very small, and -ill-shaped; a pentagon with five little bastions, where at most but -three large guns can be mounted; in front of the entrance is a little -ravelin which defends nothing. There is no counterscarp; the ramparts -are sodded. The fort is separated from the land by a wall, which might -rather prove injurious than advantageous. Near the water's edge there is -a battery which can contain more than fifty guns for firing over the -beach. There are also some furnaces for heating cannon balls. It was -this battery which offered the greatest resistance to the British. It -contained heavy guns formerly belonging to a French man of war, which -were served by American sailors. One thousand five hundred men stood in -this narrow space, without a single bomb-proof building in the fort, not -even the powder-magazine, and notwithstanding, not more than thirty men -were killed and wounded. Since that time, the engineers have erected -bomb-proofs on each side of the gate, as well as a bomb-proof -powder-magazine, and a bomb-proof roof over the pump. The fort is in a -decayed condition, and is to be abandoned on account of its unimportant -situation. The engineers intend to construct new fortifications several -miles farther off in the Chesapeake Bay. Moreover, the situation of this -fort is so unhealthy that the garrison leave it during the summer. From -this spot there is a fine view of both branches of the Patapsco, on -whose shores the trees in their autumnal dress of variegated leaves -presented a very handsome appearance. On returning, we ascended one of -the hills commanding the city, where we enjoyed a beautiful prospect. An -observatory situated here, announces the arrival of ships in the bay by -signals. - -Dr. Macauley showed me the medical college, constructed at the expense -of the state of Maryland, a spacious and handsome building, decorated -with a portico. It contains an amphitheatre, sky-lighted rotunda for -anatomical lectures, a semi-amphitheatre for chemical lectures, to which -are joined a laboratory and a cabinet with philosophical apparatus. The -anatomical cabinet did not appear to be very rich, as the school is yet -in its infancy. I remarked a female wax figure representing a rupture of -the uterus, and several human embrios, abortions, and monsters. I saw -likewise a considerable collection of minerals, among which I saluted as -an old acquaintance, a basaltic column from the giant's causeway in -Ireland. Seven professors lecture in the medical college; the lectures -are delivered during four months, from November to the end of February. -Near to the college is an infirmary belonging to this institution, where -the sick are nursed by an order of religious women called sisters of -charity. - -The Baltimore Museum was established by the second son of the same -artist, C. W. Peale, who founded the Philadelphia Museum. His sons were -destined from their cradle to become artists, as their Christian names -are Rafaelle, Rubens, Titian, &c. One of the saloons of the museum is -occupied by the paintings of Rembrandt Peale. He succeeds very well in -some of his copies; for instance, King Lear braving the tempest, from -West; perhaps he is less successful in his originals, especially in his -full length equestrian portrait of Napoleon. Several paintings in -miniature, by Miss Peale, niece of C. W. Peale, are tolerably good. - -The museum is not so extensive as that of Philadelphia; still it -contains some very interesting objects, which however, I had not time to -examine sufficiently in detail. The museum is arranged in two stories of -the buildings; the first contains various quadrupeds and birds, -I perceived a specimen of the duck-bill animal from New South Wales. The -birds are all indigenous, and are described in Wilson's Ornithology. The -collection of American insects and butterflies is very handsome; among -them are several centipedes, large scorpions, and the mammoth spider -from South America, which kills the humming bird. These insects are well -preserved in frames of white plaster. The plaster is cast on moulds, the -insect is put into the cavity, and fastened by pins stuck in the plaster -while it is sufficiently hot to destroy the moths which may have entered -the cavity; finally, they are hermetically secured beneath watch -crystals. There is also a handsome collection of Indian antiquities, -weapons and other objects; among these arms were a great number of -arrow-heads of flint, such as I had seen among the Tuscaroras; farther, -a great number of toys, and other trifles; a skeleton of the mastodon, -but not so complete as the one in Philadelphia, forms part of this -museum; the large teeth are missing, but the lower jaw bone[I-28] is -particularly well preserved; two weeks previous to my visit it had -fallen down along with the chain by which it had been suspended from the -ceiling, and had broken in two. - - [Footnote I-28: [This is the only perfect lower jaw of the - mastodon _ever_ found, and the lover of Natural History must - regret the extreme carelessness of the proprietor or - superintendent of the Baltimore Museum, which has allowed so - valuable a specimen to be mutilated. The London Medical Society - was once in treaty for this jaw bone, at the price of three - hundred guineas.]--TRANS.] - -There is also here, a very handsome collection of minerals. It is to be -regretted that so many rare things are not better arranged, and -separated from mere trifles. The city library was founded by -subscription; it contains about fifteen thousand volumes; I asked to see -Humboldt's splendid work on Mexico; the library does not contain any -thing very remarkable. Mr. Thomas, a Friend, one of the philanthropic -public characters to whom I was introduced by Mr. Vaux, of Philadelphia, -conducted me to a steam-mill, situated near the basin. It seems to me -that such a mill is well worth imitating, especially in Flanders, where -running water is so scarce. The machine which moves the wheels was made -by Bolton and Watt, of Soho, in England, and is of sixty horse-power. -This mill has eight pair of stones, of which there are commonly but four -worked at a time; most of the work, which in general is done by men, -is performed by machinery connected with the steam-engine; a long and -horizontal chest leads from the interior of the mill to the wharf, where -the vessels with grain lie; from the vessel, the wheat is poured in one -of the extremities of the chest, or rather channel, along whose whole -length a spiral screw runs, which by turning brings the grain to a large -reservoir in the mill. By another piece of machinery the wheat is -conveyed to the upper part of the house and thrown into a wire cylinder, -where it is perfectly fanned, and is thence conducted to the hoppers; -the flour falls into a common reservoir, whence it is conveyed to a -bolting machine. The fine flour passes through a trough to a place where -it is spread by a horizontally revolving rake, to be cooled; after this -it runs by a spout to the ground floor, where it is packed in oaken -barrels. A workman fills the barrel with a shovel, pushes it on an iron -ring forming part of a scale, to weigh it, underneath a wooden block, -which acted upon by a lever presses the flour into the barrel; this -block, after being sponged in the common way, is again ready for -immediate use. Two hundred barrels of superfine flour can be furnished -daily by this mill, which works night and day; twelve workmen are -sufficient to attend to all the operations. The owner said he could do -with fewer, but was unwilling to dismiss them. The engine has three -boilers, one is unemployed, to be cleaned and to be in reserve in case -of an accident; from the roof of the mill there is a fine prospect over -the city and harbour. - -Mr. Thomas, who is one of the trustees, accompanied us to the -Alms-house, nearly three miles distant from town, which was erected four -years ago, at the expense of the state of Maryland. The house consists -in a centre building, composed of the dwelling of the superintendent, -office, and store-house; farther off are two insulated wings, the one -for the men, the other for the females and children. The latter are -brought to the Alms-house by their parents, or they are the children of -disorderly parents taken up by public authority. Several of the paupers -are intrusted with the care of these unfortunate creatures; two -schoolmasters, who, by drunkenness, had been reduced to beggary, and -lived as paupers in the house, taught them to read and write. -I observed, with regret, that they were both armed with whips. The poor -sleep in large airy rooms, the sick excepted, who are in separate -infirmaries situated in the wings of the building; each one has a -separate bed. Some infirm females only were in separate apartments, -where three or four occupied one room. Each wing has three stories and -one under ground, containing the kitchen, the wash-house, and -bake-house; the bread used here is white and very good. Their meals are -excellent: four times a week they have meat, twice vegetables; and on -Fridays, as there are many Catholics, herrings. The building contains -two large court-yards, with all the shops necessary for several -mechanics, a large kitchen garden and all its dependencies of husbandry. -It is situated on an elevated ground of cleared woods, a considerable -number of acres of land appertaining to it, are cultivated by the poor. -They are employed according to their strength and capacity, particularly -in working for the house and in making their clothes. All the articles -not used by the establishment are sold. Every poor person on entering -the house, is shorn, takes a bath, and is clothed. For his clothes he -becomes a debtor to the establishment, and cannot be dismissed until he -has paid for them by his labour. The directors decide at this time if -such a person is able to make his living in an honest manner, and -resolve upon his discharge. Those who conduct themselves ill in the -house are punished by solitary confinement. If they are sick on entering -the house, two physicians, who are attached to the establishment, visit -them daily and alternately; four students, also, from the medical -college lodge in the house, and two of them are constantly present. For -lunatics there are appropriate cells on the ground-floor. - -I was twice in the Catholic Cathedral, the first time on Sunday, October -30th. The desire of hearing good music, decided me on going to this -church, and I had no occasion to repent it. At the beginning of the -service, I remained standing near the door, but being perceived, was -conducted to a pew near the altar. The archbishop was sitting on an -elevated chair, under a canopy. The music was particularly good, both in -composition and execution. There were ladies attached to the choir, and -it was a lady who played the organ. The charity sermon, by Mr. Wheeler, -on charity and on the pleasure of doing good, was very edifying. This -text had been chosen to move the hearts of the congregation, in behalf -of the Catholic poor-school. Several days after, I returned to the -Cathedral, in company with Mr. Vallenilla, (attached to the Colombian -legation, and who had lately been married here,) to see Dr. Fenwick -consecrated bishop of Boston. The church was crowded; it was with -difficulty we obtained seats in a gallery opposite to the choir. A mass, -composed by Cimarosa, was executed under the direction of Mr. H. Gilles, -in a masterly style. I do not remember to have heard such good music for -a long time. The best female voices were those of Mrs. French, Mrs. -Gilles, and Miss Olivia Donaldson, sister-in-law to Mr. Vallenilla. The -ceremony lasted very long. I remained from ten o'clock until two, P. M. -and then left the church; the service continued until three o'clock. The -archbishop himself officiated, _in pontificalibus_, with a mitre of -cloth of gold and his gilded crosier-staff. He was served by the bishops -of Charleston and Philadelphia, who wore mitres of cloth of silver. The -first, Mr. England, delivered a long sermon, with a strong Irish accent, -of which I did not understand much, except that he drew a comparison -between a republican state citizen and a good Catholic: he spoke with -much vehemence, and was very declamatory. It is said that this prelate -is one of the pillars of the Romish church, in the United States. - -I found the society very agreeable in Baltimore; at dinners every thing -was unceremonious, and the conversation very instructive and lively; the -evening parties afforded excellent music; the ladies in general are very -handsome, and sing very well. It was at one of these evening parties, -given by Mr. Henry Gilles, that I made the acquaintance of General -Bernard and his lady, Baroness Serchenfeld of Bavaria. His acquaintance -gave me great pleasure. I found him a very plain, modest and interesting -man. - -In paying Mr. Thomas my parting visit, I met his father, eighty-eight -years old, and in full possession of his mental faculties. I entertained -myself a long time with him. Among other topics, he related to me, that -he had seen the spot which the city of Baltimore now occupies, a forest -inhabited by Indians. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - _Stay in Washington, from the 2d until the 15th of November, - 1825._ - - -On the morning of the 2d of November I received another visit from Mr. -de Vallenilla. He showed me a golden medal, which had formerly been -coined by the town of Williamsburg in Virginia, in honour of President -Washington, and a very well made miniature of that great man, painted by -Stewart, to which was appended his hair. The medal was in a box made of -wood from one of the trees standing near Washington's tomb. The medal -and miniature were intended by Washington's family as presents for -President Bolivar, and Mr. de Vallenilla was to set off within a few -days for Caraccas, in order to present them to his patron, the liberator -Bolivar. - -In the public stage I left the friendly city of Baltimore, with which I -was extremely gratified, accompanied by Mr. Huygens, for Washington, the -seat of government of the United States, distant thirty-nine miles. The -weather was good and tolerably warm. The stage travelled slowly, and we -did not arrive before five o'clock in the evening. The road was -principally a turnpike, kept in a very good state. The country belonging -to the state of Maryland is for the most part hilly, covered with wood -of large-leaved oak and pine trees, appearing but very little settled. -The ground is sandy; the fields are planted with Indian corn and -tobacco. The country is for the most part uniform; we did not pass -through a single decent village. The difference between this country and -the northern states is very striking. The houses are a great deal -smaller, and of an inferior construction than the worst log-houses in -the state of New York. The most of these small houses are inhabited by -negroes, who generally had a very tattered appearance. We crossed -several creeks over good wooden bridges, and six miles from Washington, -near Bladensburg, we crossed the east branch of the Potomac, by two -wooden bridges. It was here, that in the year 1814, an engagement -between the English and the Americans took place, in which the American -militia is said to have displayed no very great degree of courage. In -consequence of this affair, the English marched into Washington, and -burned the capitol and the President's house. - -I had not formed a great idea of Washington city, but what I saw was -inferior to my expectation. The capitol stands upon an elevation, and is -to be considered as the centre of the future city. Up to this time it is -surrounded but by inconsiderable houses and fields, through which small -houses are also scattered. From the capitol, several avenues, planted -with trees, extend in different directions. We rode into the -Pennsylvania avenue, and eventually came to the houses, which are built -so far apart that this part of the city has the appearance of a -newly-established watering place. The adjacent country is very fine, and -there are several fine views upon the broad Potomac. We passed by the -President's house; it is a plain building,[I-29] of white marble, -situated in a small garden. - - [Footnote I-29: The Duke of Leinster's Palace served as the model - for this building; that, however, is one story higher.] - -The president resides in the middle building; the four others are -occupied as public offices. They are built of brick. - -The plan of Washington is colossal, and will hardly ever be executed. -According to the plan, it could contain a population of one million of -inhabitants, whilst it is said at present to have but thirteen thousand. -To be the capitol of such a large country, Washington lies much too near -the sea. This inconvenience was particularly felt during the last war. -It has been proposed to transfer the seat of government to Wheeling, on -the Ohio, in the western part of Virginia. - -Quite early next morning I received a friendly visit from the French -minister, Baron Durand de Mareuil, whom I knew in Dresden, nineteen -years ago, and afterwards as French minister at Naples, and met him in -the same quality at Brussels. General Macomb, commander of the engineer -corps of the United States, paid me a visit, and I was much delighted -with his interesting conversation. Lieutenant Huygens also came, with -whom I rode to Georgetown. This small town is amphitheatrically situated -on the Potomac, whose right bank, covered with wood and partly -cultivated, presents a pleasant view. Georgetown is separated from -Washington, or rather from the ground on which it is to stand, by a -small river called Rocky Creek, which empties into the Potomac, over -which there is a bad wooden bridge. I returned to Washington with the -minister, in order to be introduced to several of the highest public -officers, and to the diplomatic body. At first we went to the office of -Mr. Clay, the secretary of state, one of the most celebrated American -orators. He is a tall, thin man; I found him in mourning for one of his -daughters, of whom he has had the misfortune to lose three in a short -time. Afterwards we went to see the president, who received us very -kindly, and treated me as an old acquaintance. The house of the -president, as already mentioned, is built of white marble. In the -interior there is a large hall with columns. We were received in a -handsomely furnished apartment. Beautiful bronzes ornamented the -mantels, and a full length portrait of President Washington hung upon -the wall. - -From the president's house we went to the office of the war department, -to visit Mr. Barbour, the secretary, whom, however, we did not find, and -thence to the navy department, to see the secretary, Mr. Southard. This -officer is reputed to be one of the most learned men in the United -States. The four offices are all built alike, very plain, with wooden -staircases; their interior resembles a school-house. There are no -sentinels nor porters; in the building for the war department a woman -kept a fruit shop. Even the president himself has usually no sentries, -and only during the night the marines from the navy-yard keep guard -before his house. - -We next visited Baron Mareuil, and I was very glad to renew my -acquaintance with his amiable lady. His house stands quite insulated, -like a country dwelling. The houses stand generally so widely distant in -Washington, that the plan of the city exhibits more streets than houses. -We made our last visit to the Russian minister, Baron Tuill, and the -English minister, Mr. Vaughan, but found neither at home. At five -o'clock I dined at Baron Mareuil's, who gave a diplomatic dinner in -honour of the King of France's name-day. I found the greatest part of -the diplomatic body assembled, and observed the French legation, -particularly, was very numerous. It was composed of the consul-general -Durand de St. Andre, brother of the Baron Mareuil, the vice-consul -Thierry, the secretary of the legation De Bresson, the Count Ganay, and -Mr. De Sonntag, a step-son of the Baron Mareuil, who was attached to the -legation, and of Mr. Laborie, who, however, did not appear. Of the -Russian legation, I found Mr. De Wallenstein, whom I had known in -Boston, and who is very much esteemed and beloved here on account of his -sensible conduct and good character, but particularly on account of his -solid acquirements and correct views. The president, it is said, -entertains a high opinion of him. I saw likewise Baron Maltitz, of the -same legation, who married an American wife some months ago, also the -Charge d'Affaires of Brazils, Chevalier Rebello. I also became -acquainted with the secretary of the treasury, Mr. Rush, who was for -many years ambassador to England, and I met too with Mr. Brent, the -under secretary of state. The ladies present, were only Mrs. De Mareuil -and Mrs. De St. Andre. The dinner was truly splendid. - -The number of our acquaintances soon increased, and pleasant and -interesting parties ensued. At the same time we saw what was remarkable -in Washington and its vicinity. - -With Messrs. Huygens, father and son, we rode to the navy-yard, which is -under the command of a commodore. The commodore was just gone -travelling, therefore, we were accompanied on our tour by Captain Booth. -In this navy-yard ships are only built and refitted; after that they -descend the Potomac into the Chesapeake Bay, and go to Norfolk, where -they are armed. At the time of our visit there were but two frigates in -the yard, called forty-four gun ships, but mounting sixty-four pieces: -the Congress, an old ship, which was repairing, and the Potomac, an -entirely new ship, which has been launched, but subsequently hauled up -and placed under a roof. - -Upon the spot where the frigate Brandywine, which carried Gen. La -Fayette to France, was built, the keel of a new frigate was laid, and at -the same time the foundation for a house over this new ship was begun. -The ground being very moist, this building is erected on piles. Opposite -the entrance of the navy-yard, stands a rostral column of white marble -with allegoric figures. It was erected by the officers and midshipmen of -the navy of the United States, to commemorate the death of their -comrades who fell in the attack of Tripoli. The English, at the time of -their taking possession of Washington, on the 25th of June, 1814, broke -the fingers of one hand belonging to the allegoric figure representing -America, and destroyed the stylus in the hand of the muse of history. -This inscription has been added to the column: "MUTILATED BY THE -BRITISH." At the foot of the monument stand two Spanish brass -twenty-four pounders, taken by the Americans at Tripoli. - -In this, as well as in other American navy-yards, there are several -buildings. I found large forges where chain-cables are made, and tried -in the same manner I had witnessed two years ago in Newbridge, South -Wales. All the old copper taken from the ships is melted, and with an -alloy of brass, converted into utensils of every description used on -board ships; a steam-engine of fourteen horse-power moves a saw-mill, -consisting of two large and several smaller circular saws, as also, -machines for block-making, which however, can by no means be compared -with Brunel's block machine in Portsmouth; in the little arsenal are the -muskets, swords, &c. I observed a contrivance on the locks of the guns -to insulate the priming, and secure it in damp weather. I saw also a -kind of repeating musket with two locks, one behind the other. With such -muskets, by means of the anterior lock, twelve consecutive discharges -can be produced, and these being over, the gun is loaded again like an -ordinary infantry musket, and fired by means of the lowest lock. After -the anterior lock is fired, all the remaining shots incessantly follow, -and cannot be withheld at will, as it is the case with the repeating gun -bought by me in New York, already described. It is yet unknown how this -successive firing can be obtained. Captain Booth showed me also double -screws of his own invention, the object of which is to supply the place -of ordinary lanyards for ships. This officer has obtained a patent for -his contrivance, and it has been adopted, for experiment, in the frigate -Brandywine; in the same navy-yard is a laboratory, under the arsenal, -where the necessary fire-works for the artillery are made. The place -seemed to me to be ill chosen, since an explosion that may easily happen -in such an establishment, might cause most terrible consequences to the -navy-yard. - -Over the Potomac there is a long wooden bridge, built upon ordinary -cross-beams. I measured it, and found it to be fifteen paces broad, and -one thousand nine hundred long. My paces being to the ordinary ones in -the relation of four to five, it may be assumed that it is about two -thousand three hundred and seventy-five paces in length. It required -nineteen minutes to walk from one end to the other. Every foot-passenger -pays six cents. This bridge astonishes by its length, but not at all in -its execution, for it is clumsy and coarse. Many of the planks are -rotten, and it is in want of repair; it has two side-walks, one of them -is separated from the road by a rail. It is lighted by night with -lanterns. It is provided with two drawbridges, in order to let vessels -pass. It grew dark before I returned home, and was surprised at the -stillness of the streets, as I scarcely met an individual. - -Patents of invention are issued from the patent-office; whoever wishes -to obtain a patent for an invention, is obliged to deliver a model or an -accurate drawing of it. These models are exposed in an appropriate -place, where they remain until the expiration of the time for which the -patents are granted; they are then put into the lumber-room. Among such -models, there certainly is a great number of things of little -importance, as for instance, a contrivance for peeling apples; there are -also ninety-six models for making nails in different ways, but some of -them very remarkable. The most interesting models of machinery seemed to -me to be those intended to remove mud from the bottoms of rivers, and -canals, or to make them deeper. One of them consists of an ordinary -steam-boat; with her they go to the spot where they are to work; arrived -at the spot they cast anchor, stop the two water-wheels, and with an -apparatus which is moved by the engine, draw the mud from the bottom. -According to another model, the same operation can be performed by means -of a draw-wheel. A great many models are intended to separate seed from -cotton, to beat, spin, and weave it; none of them, however, are reputed -to be superior to the known English machines. - -Of steam-engines and steam-boats there are a great many models of very -singular form, also steam-boats with rotatory motions; they however do -not answer the purpose. I saw patterns of railways, and models of -machines to draw boats from a lower canal into a higher one, by help of -an inclined plane. Then two models of floating covered batteries. One of -them was an oblong case, in which is fixed a steam-engine, giving to two -long iron bars a rotatory motion. These bars, like two clock-hands, -projecting off the deck, are intended to keep off a boarding enemy. -A model to compress leaden bullets, in order to give them more weight. -A great number of household and kitchen apparatus, fire-places of -different descriptions, an earth-augur for seeking water, fire-engines -of various kinds, a fire-proof roof, contrived by a German, several -machines to make bricks, instruments by means of which, in navigating -the Mississippi, trees lying under water can be taken hold of and sawed -to pieces without stopping the vessel in its course, machinery to bore -holes in rocks, and others to hoist rocks out of water; the machine -contrived in London by Perkins to print with steel; models of book -printing-presses; models for combing wool, and dressing woollen stuffs; -fan-mills; leather manufacturing instruments, and among others, an -instrument for splitting hides; a great number of agricultural -instruments, namely, a great many ploughs for every kind of soil, -invented by Germans; machines for mowing grass, for thrashing and -cutting straw. Among the most important machines, I will mention one for -making blocks, which is considered not to be inferior in any respect to -that of Brunel, in Portsmouth, and another which renders steeping of -flax unnecessary, and yet fits it after fourteen days drying to be -broken and heckled. For permission to take a copy of the machine, one -must pay ten dollars to the inventor. I ordered two copies; one for the -Agricultural Society of Ghent, and another to present to my father. -Several fine models of bridges, especially of hanging ones, among -others, one of the bridges in Trenton, near Philadelphia, and another of -that near Fayetteville, in North Carolina; also one of a hanging bridge, -under which is suspended a canal passing over the river. Respecting arms -I did not find much improvement. There was also a triangle of steel, -weighing six pounds, upon which three different hammers struck, to -supply the place of church bells. This ringing is said to be heard at a -great distance. It has been introduced in several places to assemble the -people. - -The patent-office is in the same building with the post-office. They -pointed out to me two large gilt frames with the arms of France and -Navarre. They hung before the catastrophe of 1814, in the house of the -president, and contained full length portraits of Louis XVI. and Marie -Antoinette, which were presented in 1783, by those unfortunate monarchs -to the United States, at their especial desire. Both portraits suddenly -disappeared, and it is believed that it happened in 1814, when the -English made their unexpected visit to Washington, and burnt down the -house of the president. - -The patent-office is under the direction of Dr. Thornton,[I-30] who is -an able draughtsman. Under Dr. Thornton, a Swiss is employed, whose name -is Keller, a very able mechanic, and inspector of the model room, who -explained every thing to me. Dr. Thornton was so kind as to accompany me -to a sculptor, who, by means of casting a mould upon the face, obtains a -striking resemblance, and has made busts of the first American -statesmen, &c. - - [Footnote I-30: [Since deceased. His place is supplied by Dr. - Thomas P. Jones, of Philadelphia.]--TRANS.] - -I arranged a party to the Falls of Potomac, with Mr. De Bresson, sixteen -miles distant, where we were accompanied by Mr. Huygens, Jr. On the 6th -of November, at nine o'clock, we left Washington and went five miles -upon a very rough road, along the left bank of the river, which is at -first very broad. Both shores are hilly and covered with wood, for the -most part hickory and different species of oak. Of the primitive woods -nothing is to be seen, for generally the wood is second growth. The -banks soon became rocky, and we observed even in the river some -projecting rocks. On the left shore they have dug a canal, this, however -is too narrow, and only navigable by long boats, resembling the -Durham-boats on the St. Lawrence river. In these boats, wood, lumber, -stones, especially mill-stones, and the harvest from the upper -countries, are carried to Washington. - -Five miles above the city, we went over, on a hanging bridge, to the -right shore. The chains consist of bars of wrought iron. The bridge -itself is of wood, as well as the two cross-beams standing on its -extremities, through which the chains are passed; these cross-beams form -a kind of entrance, having an Egyptian appearance. The length of the -bridge is about one hundred and sixteen feet, its breadth sixteen feet. -A rather high toll is paid for passing it; we paid a dollar and a half -for a carriage with two horses, for going and coming. The road, passing -almost incessantly through a wood, became a little better after we -arrived at the other side of the bridge. It was called a turnpike road, -but still it continued hilly. We passed but a single inn, and saw but a -single country house, which belonged to Commodore Jones, whose daughter -became a Catholic and a nun, in a convent at Georgetown; this occurrence -produced a great sensation in the United States. Most of the people we -met with, were tattered negroes, who humbly saluted us. We were now in -the state of Virginia, in the vicinity of the falls; when the road -became very bad, we left our vehicle and went on foot through the -forest, to see this natural curiosity, whose noise made us sensible of -its proximity. - -The river runs here over a rocky bed, and is about three hundred paces -wide; in the dry season it is a great deal narrower. It forms several -distinct falls, none of them above fifty feet high. They recall to -memory Glenn's Falls on the Hudson, between Lake George and Saratoga. -We crept about in the labyrinth of broken rocks, not without danger or -difficulty, in order to obtain different views of these falls. The sun -was shining upon them at the time, and afforded us the sight of several -rainbows; we soon felt ourselves richly rewarded for our pains. - -In order to avoid these falls, a canal with locks has been made on the -right shore. The canal passing through the rocks, is in some places dug -down more than fifty feet. We, unfortunately, had chosen Sunday for our -excursion; the inhabitants were gone to church, and there was nobody to -give us the necessary explanations. There was no vegetation on the rocks -about the falls, except some broom and single clover. We saw also upon -the rock a creeping cactus plant, resembling the cochineal cactus, with -small pear-shaped fruit, which contained a purple-red slimy juice. This -plant gave me the first sign of my approach to the south. We returned to -Washington by the road we came. Notwithstanding the late season, it was -as warm as in midsummer. - -The capitol is a really imposing building. When it is once surrounded by -handsome buildings, it will produce a fine effect. It is built of white -marble, and has three domes; the largest is over the rotunda, and the -two smaller over the wings. The capitol stands on an acclivity, and in -front is three stories high, and on the back, which is opposite the -president's mansion, four stories high. In front is the entrance, with a -portal of Corinthian columns; on the back part there is a large balcony, -decorated with columns. The entrance under the portal is a little too -low. - -In the centre of the building, under the principal dome is a large -circular hall, receiving light from the roof. Pictures are to be placed -in this hall, under the bas-reliefs. One of these represents the -deliverance of Captain Smith, commander of the first English settlement -in Virginia, by the Indian Princess Pocahontas; another is an allegory, -representing the landing of European emigrants. Behind this hall is a -large saloon, contiguous to the balcony, which contains the library of -Congress. During the English incursion in 1814, the library was -destroyed by fire; the present library has been gradually collected -since, and consists in great part of the late President Jefferson's -books. Under the large hall is a small one, supported by three rows of -columns, not unlike a family tomb. It receives its light from above, by -a round opening in the floor of the large hall, and serves as a passage. -It has been proposed to place there the coffin of the great WASHINGTON. -No principal staircase is yet built, but a great number of smaller ones. -The interior is altogether very angular. Columns and corridors are -numerous in all the lateral galleries and saloons; the capitals of the -columns are mostly of Egyptian taste, and the models seem to have been -taken from the "description de l'Egypte." In the corridor leading to the -senate chamber, are columns, the shafts of which represent a bunch of -stalks of Indian corn, and the capitals the fruit of the same plant. -In the wings on the right hand side from the entrance, is the senate -chamber, the offices belonging to it, the office of the president, and -session room of the supreme court of the United States. This, and the -senate chamber, are built in a semicircular form. In the centre is a -place for the presiding officer. The members of the senate have their -seats amphitheatrically arranged; every one has a chair, and before him -a small mahogany desk. In this wing are hung the four pictures by -Trumbull, which are hereafter to be placed in the rotunda. One of them -represents the Declaration of Independence: there is a very fine -engraving of this picture; another, the surrender of General Burgoyne to -General Gates, near Saratoga; the third, the capitulation at Yorktown, -and the filing off of the English between the American and French army; -the fourth, the resignation of General Washington, and laying down of -his commission to congress on the 23d of December, 1783. The portraits -are said to be striking likenesses. As to the composition and execution -of these pictures, the first makes one think of the pedantic school of -Benjamin West, and the other loses by faint colouring. The painter was, -moreover, placed under restraint by want of taste in his countrymen for -the fine arts, who resemble, in that respect, their English ancestors: -the posture of almost every single person having been prescribed him. - -In the other wing of the building is the hall of representatives, -likewise in form of an amphitheatre, and the offices belonging to it. In -this hall is a full length portrait of General La Fayette. The ceiling -of this saloon, like that of the senate chamber, and supreme court room, -is supported by doric columns, whose shafts are of pudding-stone. The -gallery above the principal dome, affords a very extensive view. The -principal avenues of the city, which is to be built, all depart from -this point, and this view recalls the situation of the castle at -Carlsruhe, with this difference, that here no wood, and but few houses -are seen. - -With the families de Mareuil, St. Andre, Huygens, and all the French -legation, we made an excursion by water to Mount Vernon, the -country-seat of the great Washington. Mount Vernon is situated sixteen -miles from the capitol, and on the right bank of the Potomac, in the -state of Virginia. We hired a steam-boat for the purpose, on board of -which we went at half past ten o'clock, at Georgetown. We went across -the long bridge through an opening of a double drawbridge, and steered -down the Potomac. Washington remaining on our left, had a very handsome -appearance from the water, and especially the cape, named Greenleaf's -point, situated at the junction of the east branch with the Potomac, -which is fortified, and contains very spacious storehouses. Eight miles -below Washington, we stopped at the city of Alexandria, lying on the -right bank of this river, in order to obtain a boat for landing at Mount -Vernon. Alexandria is one of the three cities of the district of -Columbia, which are Washington, Georgetown, and Alexandria. This town is -said to have a considerable commerce; it has a harbour with wooden -wharves, near which I saw several schooners lying, and also two brigs. -It is said to contain about eight thousand inhabitants. The streets are -long and very straight, crossing each other at right angles. After a -stay of twenty minutes, we continued our course. Both banks are hilly, -in some places rocky; there is a great deal of gravel, and they are -covered with wood. At a winding of the stream we passed by Fort -Washington, recently built upon a rock on the left bank, commanding the -stream with its batteries. In an oblique direction on the opposite -shore, we at last perceived Mount Vernon, beautifully situated. The -water near the banks being very low, the steam-boat stopped in the -middle of the stream, about a mile from the shore, and we landed in -boats. We ascended by a very bad road to a place where cattle were -grazing, which I heard was formerly Washington's garden. Between three -oaks and some cypress trees, we saw a coarse wooden door about four feet -high, in a very bad piece of masonry. I thought at first it was a -spring-house. How great was my astonishment, when I learned that this -was the entrance to the sepulchral vault of the greatest man of his -time; the ornament of his age; of WASHINGTON! - -I picked up some acorns fallen from the trees which shaded the tomb; my -object was to plant them when I returned home. I took also from this -sacred spot a twig of a cypress tree. The tomb is no longer opened, -since strangers have nearly cut to pieces the whole of the pall covering -the coffin, in order to preserve it as a relic. It was last opened at -the time of General La Fayette's visit. - -Thence we went to the dwelling-house, about three hundred paces distant, -and situated on a hill, from which there is an extremely fine view of -the Potomac. This estate belongs to Judge Washington, who, being absent -upon business connected with his office the greatest part of the year, -permits his inherited property to decay very much. He has no children. -The house is two stories high, built of wood, and without taste. On the -side next the river, it has a piazza, and on the other, is the entrance -with stone steps, which are almost decayed. By means of a wooden -colonade, the house communicates right and left with the wings and -household buildings. Farther on, are houses for negro slaves, of whose -dirty, ugly, and ragged children, we saw a great many running about. It -being Sunday, we had much difficulty in finding access to the house; at -last we succeeded in getting into the lower story, which has been left -nearly in the same condition it was at the decease of its great -possessor. But the number of books belonging to the library, has been -increased by many new works by the present proprietor. A great many fine -engravings decorate the walls, especially a very handsome Louis XVI. -which Washington was presented with by that unfortunate monarch. On the -gilt frame above, are the arms of France, and below, those of -Washington's family. In the four corners are the cyphers of the king and -G. W. There are also two very good engravings, representing the battle -of Bunker's Hill, and the death of General Montgomery; four views of the -attack of Gibraltar and its defence, and a miniature portrait of the -great man painted on enamel. One of the keys of the Bastille, sent after -its destruction by General La Fayette to Washington, is exposed in a -case of glass, under it is a sepia drawing of the demolition of that -prison. The furniture and other regulations of the rooms, are very -plain; in the eating-room I observed a valuable chimneypiece of Italian -marble, with handsome bas-reliefs, and two columns of _gallo-antico_. - -It is known that when General La Fayette was visiting Washington's -burial place, an eagle made his appearance in the air and hovered over -the spot until the general had proceeded farther. We also observed to -day a very large one, which seemed to observe us from the height; we saw -him above us when we were embarking. He seemed to hover over the same -spot for a long while, and when the last boat came near the steam-boat, -he suddenly left the place, flew towards the wood, and was lost to -sight. - -In our travelling company, I became acquainted with Count Miot, who had -formerly been minister of the interior in Naples, and afterwards in -Spain, under Joseph Buonaparte, and now was travelling for pleasure, and -to visit his ancient master. Mr. De Mareuil detained all the gentlemen -of our party to dinner at his house, and we remained there till ten -o'clock, very much pleased. At a ball given by Baron Mareuil, more than -two hundred persons, the members of the diplomatic body, the first -authorities of the country, and the principal inhabitants, were present. -I met with General Bernard, and became acquainted with General Brown, an -aged man, whose right side appeared to be palsied. The most interesting -acquaintances I made, were those of Commodore Porter, whose name, as -well as the important services he rendered to his country, and his late -trial, have rendered him known to the world, and of Colonel Roberdeau, -of the engineers. I became farther acquainted with Mr. Calvert, who told -me his son had studied in Goettingen and had some time ago travelled to -Weimar, where he was presented at court and was very well received. The -ladies were very elegantly dressed, and danced very well. They danced -mostly French quadrilles, but always with the same figures. The music -was good, and by the marine band of the garrison. The ball, however, did -not last long; I was one of the last to go, and came home at eleven -o'clock. The president was not there; he does not accept any invitation -in the city. The present president receives even the foreign ministers -only when they have been announced by the secretary of state. The -president is likewise exempt from returning visits, which he had already -the kindness to give me notice of by Mrs. Sullivan, in Baltimore. - -Another ball was given by General Brown, in honour of the marriage of -Captain Gardner, of the fourth regiment of artillery. The gentlemen I -found there were mostly officers of the army. There is scarcely an army -in Europe in which the corps of officers is better composed than in the -small American army; since in the United States no one can on any -account be an officer, if he is not well educated. The officers are -exclusively taken from the military academy in West Point; no subaltern -officer is promoted. The greater part of the inferior officers who were -advanced during the last war, had been dismissed. Such a measure is in -this country unavoidably necessary, where none but people of the lowest -class enlist as soldiers in the army; without such an interval between -the officers and the rank and file, discipline could not be maintained. -Therefore, if a young man is seen in the uniform of an American officer, -it may with confidence be inferred that he is in every respect fit to -maintain his place in the best society. - -At the third ball, given by Mr. Huygens, we once more met with a very -pleasant company. I conversed a long time with Lieutenant Wolf Tone, of -the first regiment of artillery. He is an Irishman by birth, educated in -a French military school. He had been formerly in the French service, -and is patronised by General Bernard. - -At a visit I made to General Macomb and Major Vandeventer, at the -war-office, the general showed me many drawings and plans of fortresses -and entrenchments, together with two remarkable lists sent in every -month from West Point by Lieutenant-Colonel Thayer. One of them contains -the names of the best and worst cadets in every class, and the other the -names of those who deserve to be rewarded, as well of others who have -been punished, with indication of their faults; finally, of those who -have been expelled, and the reason of their expulsion. Both lists are -put in frames, under glass, and hung up in the general's office; one is -changed every fortnight, and the other every month. I was told by the -general, that they saved him frequently from wasting conversation with -the parents of the cadets. - -The general conducted me also to the topographical office, being under -the direction of Colonel Roberdeau. I found there several repeating -circles, theodolites and telescopes, made by Troughton and Ramsden; also -two transit instruments, destined for the observatory which is still to -be built; an instrument by Troughton, which serves for measuring the -ten-thousandth part of an English inch, and a model measure of the -English yard, French metre and litre. This gentleman regretted that the -old English measures and weights are retained in the United States, -instead of adopting, as it has been done in the Netherlands, the new -French standard, which is much better. - -There were also several good plans of battles and sieges of the -revolutionary war, namely, those of the old fortresses Ticonderoga and -Crownpoint, on Lake Champlain. I missed the most recent drawings. On the -other hand, General Macomb showed me what they call the Indian -department, where all business with the Indian tribes is attended to. -There we found portraits of a great many Indian chiefs, and several of -their wives, who have been at different periods in Washington, in order -to compliment the president. They then receive medals according to their -rank, which they wear by a riband round the neck. There were also -several weapons and different ornaments of tribes I had already seen. -Finally, I visited the ordnance department, which is under the direction -of a colonel. I saw here a gun invented by Mr. Hall, at Harper's Ferry, -which is loaded from the breech, and with which five sure shots can be -made in a minute. With this gun, three thousand discharges had been -made, and it has proved very exact; several have been ordered, and one -or two companies are to be armed with them in case of war. - -At a dinner given by the president, and at which I had the honour along -with about forty persons, to be present, were the diplomatic body, the -state secretaries, several generals, and other persons of distinction. -Among them, I made the acquaintance of Mr. Gaillard,[I-31] of North -Carolina, president pro tem. of the senate. No ladies were present, -because Mrs. Adams was not well. The table furniture was very rich. -I was particularly pleased with a service of silver gilt. The -eating-room is very spacious, besides which there were two richly -furnished rooms open. I remarked several handsome Sevres, porcelain -vessels, and a marble bust of the great Washington, by the Italian -sculptor Ceracchi, who was afterwards shot in Paris, on account of a -conspiracy against Napoleon's life. A great chandelier was remarkably -fine; it was made for the Emperor Napoleon, and purchased in the year -1815, by the American minister in Paris. The imperial eagles now pass -for American. - - [Footnote I-31: Since dead.] - -General Brown,[I-32] during a visit, showed me a large gold medal which -was presented to him by congress, on account of his services in the late -war. On one side of it is a bust of the general, and on the other a -trophy of English arms surrounding a fasces. Four shields bear the -names, Sackett's Harbour, Niagara, Chippewa, and Erie, with the dates on -which these places witnessed the general's deeds. At the foot of the -trophy an American eagle is represented, holding in his talons an -English banner. This medal is not intended to be worn: the general -preserves it in a box. The American citizens are not allowed to wear any -foreign decorations; even General Bernard was obliged to lay aside those -he had so truly merited. General Brown showed me also a gold box, -presented to him by the city of New York, together with the freedom of -the city. - - [Footnote I-32: [Since dead.]--TRANS.] - -On the 14th of November I began to make farewell visits, for the -dwellings in Washington are so far distant, that such visits require a -great deal of time. On this occasion, I had a long conversation with the -secretary of war, Mr. Barbour, and general Macomb, on military subjects. -I differed in opinion from the secretary about the efficiency of militia -men, of whom he, as their former general,[I-33] seemed to entertain too -high an opinion. At Mr. de Wallenstein's I saw some good instruments; -a barometer for measuring heights, and a telescope which he had adopted -as a transit-instrument. I found there also Krusenstern's large Atlas of -the South Sea, a fine work on bad paper. Mr. de Wallenstein had -translated an astronomical work from the Spanish into English; he had -also an English copy of the illustrations of Goethe's Faust laid open. -With General Bernard I conversed for a long while on the science of -military engineering. He told me he had served at the defence of two -fortresses, and obtained the experience, that there can be no strong -defence, without having covered works on the front of attack. Respecting -coast batteries, he was of opinion that the best were those which had at -least an elevation of thirty feet above the surface of the water, in -order that the rebounding shots coming from ships should not attain the -breastwork. He considered the establishments for military instruction in -this country susceptible of great improvements. He had proposed to -establish a military exercise school, to which should be alternately -sent battalions of infantry, and companies of artillery; this -proposition has not been adopted. The general said also a great deal -about the importance of Anvers, and gave me many interesting -explanations of Napoleon's designs in fortifying that place. Finally, -the conversation turned on the battle of Waterloo, at which the General -had been present as aid to the Emperor. Tears came into the eyes of this -gallant man, while speaking of his former master. - - [Footnote I-33: He had commanded the militia when Governor of - Virginia.] - -On the last day of my stay in Washington, I took a ride with Messrs. -Huygens, and Mr. de Bresson; we went to the marine barracks, where, by -order of the secretary of war, experiments with Hall's muskets were to -be made. Mr. Hall, who is inspector of the gun manufactory at Harper's -Ferry, was present himself. - -Experiments were made on the celerity of firing; Mr. Hall fired with his -gun, and the sergeant major of the marines with an ordinary infantry -musket. The last could make but four shots in a minute; whilst Mr. Hall -made six. He has also applied his invention to ordinary infantry muskets -and rifles, and caused them to be constructed at Harper's Ferry. They -cost the government eighteen dollars a piece. An essential improvement -would be to introduce percussion fire-locks. Moreover these arms can -only be given into the hands of very well exercised men. The government -intends to arm the left wing companies with them. For the riflemen or -light infantry, this gun seems to be very well suited. I expressed a -desire that Mr. Hall would make such a gun for me; but he replied, that -being in the service of the government, he was not allowed to make any -without particular permission of the secretary of war. The few marines -in quarters were paraded under the command of a Lieutenant, and I was -received with music and presented arms. The whole of the marine corps is -composed of but seven hundred men, who were employed on board the -squadrons in the Mediterranean Sea, the Gulf of Mexico, and in the South -Sea, to serve on board the receiving ships, and in the navy yards of -Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Washington and Norfolk. Hopes were -entertained, that the next congress would consent to augment this corps -to the number of fifteen hundred men, and this augmentation would, no -doubt, have a great influence on the improvement of the service. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - _Departure from Washington.-- Fredericktown.-- Harper's Ferry.-- - Blue Ridge.-- Staunton.-- Natural Bridge.-- Wier's Cave.-- - Charlotteville.-- University of Virginia.-- Monticello.-- - Richmond.-- Jamestown.-- Norfolk.-- Fort Monroe.-- - Fayetteville.-- Columbia._ - - -On the 15th of November, I set out from Washington with Mr. Huygens, -jr., who was desirous of accompanying me by permission of his father. -I had hired a carriage with four horses to Harper's Ferry, about fifty -miles from Washington, where we were to arrive in two days. The road was -for some miles very good, but afterwards it became bad and rugged and -continued so the rest of the day. We left the District of Columbia, and -again entered the state of Maryland. The country through which we were -passing was hilly, covered with wood, and in some places cultivated; -single large houses belonging to tobacco planters, and in their vicinity -small ones for the negro slaves, were scattered here and there. We went -through only one decent place called Rocksville. About seven o'clock in -the evening we reached an inn called Scholl's tavern, situated in the -township of Clarksburg, distant from Washington twenty-five miles. - -Next morning we left Clarksburg; it was pretty cool, and the road as -rough as before. It was fifteen miles to Fredericktown, over a hilly and -rocky country. Sometimes we saw handsome prospects on the mountains of -the Blue Ridge, which we were approaching. The houses that we passed by, -were like those of yesterday; the negro houses mostly of wood, with -clumsy chimnies, built close to the house. The Monocacy river we passed -at a ford within four miles of Fredericktown. This is one of the -principal places in the state of Maryland, and is situated in a well -cultivated country surrounded by hills. It has about five thousand -inhabitants, and is built very regularly. At the entrance of one of the -streets stood a wooden triumphal arch raised in honour of General La -Fayette. The inscriptions were already nearly effaced by the weather. -I had hardly alighted at the tavern, when I received a visit from a -clergyman of this place named Dr. Schaeffer, a son of a preacher of the -same name in Philadelphia. This gentleman accompanied me to see Mr. -Schley, whom I had known in Saratoga, and afterwards we went to a -Lutheran church, a very plain building. We ascended the spire in order -to have a view of the town and surrounding country. The country appeared -to be very well cultivated; their principal agricultural object is -tobacco. There are four churches, Lutheran, Reformed, Catholic and -Methodist. The public buildings are the Court-house and prison. - -Harper's Ferry was yet twenty-one miles distant from Fredericktown. The -country grew at every moment more hilly, and the road rugged and worse; -as we were approaching the Blue Ridge, we often alighted and walked. -We met with several herds and flocks, which are driven from the western -states to different seaports for sale. The wagons we met were generally -carrying products of the west; they were large wagons with five stout -horses. Every horse had on its collar a set of bells, consisting of five -different tones, which made a very singular music. - -Meanwhile, our road passed mostly through forest; we went through but a -single insignificant village called Newton. The mountains grew higher -and more rocky. At last we came again to the Potomac, which we had left -the day before, and enjoyed many fine views. - -This country reminded me of Pranen, near Dresden. It was night when we -arrived on the left bank of the Potomac, opposite to Harper's Ferry; -we were obliged to wait for a considerable length of time for the -ferry-boat. When this came, we saw it was conducted by an intoxicated -negro; even the ferry-boat itself was very bad; however, we fortunately -crossed the shallow river, passing amidst pieces of rocks, and perceived -at some distance up, three piers standing in the river, on which the -next year, a bridge was to be built. Having crossed, we came into the -state of Virginia. At Harper's Ferry, we took our lodgings in a neat -tavern; and I had here the pleasure to see Dr. Weise, from Dresden, who, -as soon as he knew I had arrived, came to see me. I take the liberty of -inserting here the following description of this country, by THOMAS -JEFFERSON, in his "Notes on the State of Virginia." - -"The passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge is perhaps one of the -most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of -land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the -foot of the mountain an hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left -approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also. In the moment of -their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, -and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our -senses into the opinion, that this earth has been created in time, that -the mountains were formed first, that the rivers began to flow -afterwards, that in this place particularly they have been dammed up by -the Blue Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the -whole valley; that continuing to rise they have at length broken over at -this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. -The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on the Shenandoah, the -evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds, by the -most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the -distant finishing which nature has given to the picture, is of a very -different character. It is a true contrast to the foreground. It is as -placid and delightful, as that is wild and tremendous. For the mountain -being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the cleft, -a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the -plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult -roaring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm -below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way too the -road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, -pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, -its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about -twenty miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round that. This -scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic. Yet here, as in the -neighbourhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their -lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these -monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken -the earth itself to its centre." - -The morning after my arrival at Harper's Ferry, I visited Mr. -Stubbersfield, director of the gun manufactory, to whom I was -recommended by the secretary of war, and he showed me the establishments -under his orders. The workshops are in seven large stone buildings, of -which the interior partitions, with regret be it spoken, are of wood. -The buildings stand in rows, four at the foot of the mountain, and -opposite to them, three on the bank of the Potomac. At the entrance of -the street which they form, is Mr. Stubbersfield's office, from which he -can overlook the entrances of all the buildings. The machines are moved -by water-wheels. All the buildings are two stories high; in the lower -part are the forges, and in the higher stories, workmen who use no fire -in their work. In the working of iron I saw nothing new. The iron -employed for barrels, comes from Juniata, in the state of Pennsylvania, -and is in plates, of which each is calculated for one barrel. The steel -is German, called Halbach's steel, furnished by Mr. Halbach, of -Philadelphia. Every gun must pass through one hundred and twenty hands -before it is ready. A particular workman is appointed for every part and -paid for it separately, when the work has been duly examined, and proved -to be good. A skilful and diligent workman can gain two dollars per day. -When the workmen have prepared all the parts of a fire-lock, they -deliver them to a man who examines, tries them, and puts them together. -The barrels are turned by means of rings, which can be rendered smaller -or larger. The machinery for making gun-stocks was the most interesting -to me, because it was formerly a very laborious work. A piece of iron is -screwed upon a piece of wood, which has been made in the form of a -stock, at the place where the barrel is to be placed. After this the -piece is screwed into the machinery; in a parallel direction to it a -piece of iron is screwed, having the same form that is to be given to -the stock. The planing is performed by means of a wheel, to which are -adapted ledge-planes. The operation begins with the muzzle, and ends -with the breech of the gun. The gun-stock moves together with the iron -model, each round its axis, having a parallel direction with the axis of -a plain wheel of brass, which is rubbing on the iron model, and -following all its prominences and cavities. This wheel is also put in -motion and drawn towards the breech by means of an endless screw; during -this motion it planes the gun-stock off, and gives it the proper form. -This operation lasts six or seven minutes, and there is nothing to -prevent it from turning at the same time another gun-stock on the other -side. The gun-stock being duly formed, is taken out of the machinery, -and another put in its place; then the iron piece is taken away from the -turned gun-stock, it is fixed in a cramp, and applied to a bore-plane -for making the groove to receive the barrel. - -This manufactory, and that of Springfield, the only ones belonging to -the government, furnishes at present in time of peace, fifteen thousand -guns yearly. These guns are generally browned by the process indicated -by Dupin, also, the rings and bayonets, the last of which are kept -bright by the British. - -Mr. Stubbersfield conducted me also to the arsenal, in which the -finished muskets are delivered, and are either here preserved, or packed -up in cases by twenty, and sent to other arsenals. In the interior of -the arsenal, every thing is of wood, notwithstanding the great -importance of being fire-proof, as it contains such a large capital. -There were eighty-four thousand guns. If the value of one be estimated -only at thirteen dollars, it makes the sum of one million and ninety-two -thousand dollars. - -From the arsenal, we were conducted to a new manufactory, half a mile -from the town, where Mr. Hall's patent guns are constructed under his -own direction. He not being present, I was not fortunate enough to find -any body to explain the machinery, which appeared not yet in full -action. Dr. Weise, went with us to a mountain above this place, called -Jefferson's Rock. The prospect from it is really very fine; it agrees -with the description, yet I believe I have seen finer landscapes in -Germany. From that place also, the town can be surveyed, the houses of -which appeared to be rather scattered; of its fifteen hundred -inhabitants, three hundred are working in the gun manufactory. The -ground for the most part belongs to the government, and well recommended -persons obtain permission to build upon it. On an elevation, near -Jefferson's Rock, a large building, three stories high, has been -erected. The first story was intended for a church, the second for a -Lancasterian school, and the third for a free mason's lodge. I suffered -very much from a very cold wind, which brought with it a little snow. -In the evening, Dr. Weise came to me with a bridge builder, who was a -native of Reuslingen, who came here thirty years ago as a baker, and -then had learned the art of constructing mills and bridges. The second -bridge on the Schuylkill, above Philadelphia, built of a single arch, is -of his invention, and the next year he was to build one here over the -Potomac. - -On the 19th of November, we left Harper's ferry in a clear, but very -cold morning, and set off on a journey to the Natural Bridge, which is -one hundred and seventy-five miles distant. We rode in an ordinary -stage. The improvement of stages, appears not yet to have extended -beyond the Blue Mountains, because we were obliged to be contented with -one, which was in every respect very uncomfortable. The way led us -through a hilly country and was very bad. We went for a considerable -distance on rocks; on the road, a great many loose stones were lying, -and I was surprised, that our miserable vehicle was not broken to -pieces. At break of day, we arrived at a small place called Smithfield, -eighteen miles from Harper's ferry. A couple of miles farther, we came -to warm Sulphur Springs, the water of which has the taste of spoiled -eggs, like that of Aix-la-Chapelle. It seems to be very little known, as -there is no enclosure around it, and no houses near. A lucky chance will -no doubt make it known, and I should not be surprised, were I to come -hither again in fifteen or twenty years, to find at this spot an elegant -watering place, somewhat like Saratoga Springs. The road continued -through a forest of oak, chesnut, acacia, and cedar trees; houses were -seldom met with. We forded many creeks, the most considerable of them is -called Cedar creek. We observed also some grist-mills. It froze pretty -hard, so that the borders of the creeks were covered with a pretty thick -ice, and large icicles hung on the sluices of the mills. Eleven miles -beyond Smithfield, we came to Winchester, a very nice country town, -where the houses are mostly of masonry, and form a long principal -street, intersected by other smaller ones; it has a market-house, and -many stores, which appeared to be very well provided. Here we changed -our stage for a better one, although still very inconvenient. The wood -of which it was constructed was hickory, which has a great deal of -elasticity. - -From Winchester, we went to Stephensbury, eight miles farther, to -Middleton, then to Strasburg, six miles, and at last to Woodstock, -twelve miles, where we passed the night. This place is sixty-one miles -distant from Harper's ferry. We reached our night-quarters in the -evening about six o'clock, in a very cold night and a fine moonshine. -The places between Winchester and Woodstock were not considerable, -except Strasburg, which is more ancient than the others, and appears to -have a larger population. The houses are generally of wood and covered -with shingles, although a great number of stones are found here. The -country became at last very fine. On our left we saw the Blue Ridge, -from which we now withdrew at every moment. Another ridge, in a parallel -direction with the former, called the Northern Ridge, rose suddenly -between us and the Blue Ridge, which soon entirely disappeared. On our -right there was another ridge of mountains, it was an arm of the -Alleghany Mountains, and we went through a valley at least ten miles -wide. The formation of these parallel ridges is very singular, and no -instance occurs of it in the other parts of the world. The country was -pretty well cultivated, and by the exterior appearance of many -country-houses, we were induced to believe their inhabitants enjoyed -plenty. The enclosures of fields are here, for the most part, the -above-mentioned old fences, yet next to the houses they are of masonry -carefully formed. As it appeared, they travel here much on horseback. -On account of great distances between the plantations, almost all the -ladies can ride on horseback; we met several of them elegantly dressed, -and also black women. The race of horses of this country, appears to be -a very strong one. They use also oxen for drawing; to many carts were -put two oxen, and before them two horses. On the 20th of November, we -left Woodstock at half-past two o'clock in the morning, in a very -miserable stage, and proceeded to Staunton, seventy-one miles distant, -on a still more rugged road than that of yesterday; in this place we -passed the night. The places on our way were mostly insignificant: only -Shryock, New Market, Big Spring, and Harrisonburg, deserve to be -mentioned; the last of them is said to have from eight to nine hundred -inhabitants. The greatest part of the houses were wooden ones, and but a -few of masonry. This part of the state of Virginia does not bear -comparison with Massachusetts, New York, or even Pennsylvania. The great -number of slaves in this state, makes also a very bad impression.[I-34] -The largest part of the country is not covered with wood, and appears to -be well cultivated. As for the rest it is very hilly, and on our left -hand we had all day the ridge of North Mountains, of which, however, we -could not see much, owing to the fogginess of the weather. We crossed -many streams at fords; these streams were rather torrents. We crossed -the Shenandoah near its source. About seven o'clock in the evening we -reached Staunton, and took our lodgings in an unpleasant tavern. This -long and uncomfortable journey, in an extremely bad stage, and upon a -very rough way, made me quite uneasy, and my young travelling companion -more so, for he seemed not to be very much accustomed to such fatigues. -I suffered, however, this want of comfort with a great deal of patience. - - [Footnote I-34: ["Let it never be forgotten that a part of the - quarrel of the Americans with the government of Great Britain, - arose from the determination of the former not to tolerate the - farther importation of slaves; an importation absolutely forced on - them by England, in consideration of the vested rights of the - Royal African Company!!! With an admirable grace does England - upbraid America with tolerating slavery,--a curse by her inflicted - on her colonies." --_London Literary Chronicle, June 7th, - 1828._]--TRANS.] - -On the 21st of November, we were obliged to stay in Staunton, because -the stage goes only every other day to the Natural Bridge, which is on -the road to Knoxville and Louisville, and this bridge being too far -distant from Staunton, we could not, with a hired carriage, go there, -and return within two days. We employed the leisure forced upon us in -examining the country. The town itself is small, has about one thousand -six hundred inhabitants, and consists, properly speaking, of but two -principal streets, intersecting each other at right angles. The greatest -part of the houses are of wood, covered with shingles. Staunton is the -chief place of Augusta county; the court was in session, and on that -account a great many lawyers were present. The town is surrounded by -hills and covered with wood, as far as I could observe in the foggy -weather, which lasted all day. The Shenandoah here is but a small brook; -opposite the town is a limestone rock, having many cavities. I was told -they were very spacious. I tried to creep in, but found the entrance so -narrow and low, that I was obliged to give it up. I had obtained from -Mrs. Weightman, in Washington, a letter of introduction to Dr. Scheffey, -her brother-in-law, and the most renowned lawyer in the place. -I delivered it, and received a visit from this gentleman. He came with -several of his brother lawyers, and among them three generals of militia -were introduced. Dr. Scheffey himself was a major, and almost every -inhabitant of distinction is invested with a rank in the militia. The -custom being here to call one another by their military rank, one is -tempted to believe himself transported to the head-quarters of some -army! In conversing with these gentlemen, I observed with astonishment -the aristocratical spirit which the Virginians possess. I was astonished -to hear them praising hereditary nobility and primogeniture! In the -evening I went to see Dr. Scheffey, and we spent the time very -pleasantly over a good glass of wine, and in rational conversation. - -The next morning, I left my baggage in Staunton at half past two -o'clock, in a miserable stage, in order to go to the Natural Bridge, -upon a very bad road. We passed only two decent places, Fairfield and -Lexington, the last is the chief town of Rockbridge county, and has a -court and high school. On account of a fog, which lasted all day, we -could see but little of the country, which in some parts of Rockbridge -county becomes very mountainous. We forded two small streams, called -Middle river and Buffalo creek, over the last there is a wooden bridge, -which is made use of only at very high water. Our travelling company was -not the most agreeable, it was composed of two Americans, who did not -open their mouths, and of an Irish resident, who talked the more for the -silence of the others; all this was disagreeable enough. At times he -became interesting, when he had cheered his heart with whiskey. We -passed by many very handsome country-houses; at one of them we saw eight -large black eagles sitting on a fence, they were fed by the care of the -proprietor. The inhabitants seem not very fond of shooting, for I saw -snipes in Fairfield, which flew even into the yard of the tavern. Game -is here very abundant, a deer costs about a dollar and a half. - -In the afternoon we reached a lonely tavern, situated in the mountains -called Natural Bridge, which is fifty miles distant from Staunton. -I availed myself of the short time the sun remained above the horizon to -hasten to the Natural Bridge, which is a mile and a half distant from -the tavern, and for the sake of which I had made so great a circuit and -suffered so many fatigues. A young negro slave from the tavern was our -conductor; the way lead through mountains overgrown with wood. At last I -stood upon a rock whence I could overlook the cleft and the bridge just -before me. In Jefferson's Notes, that learned man gives a description of -the bridge, which is as follows: - -"The Natural Bridge, the most sublime of Nature's works, though not -comprehended under the present head, must not be pretermitted. It is on -the ascent of a hill, which seems to have been cloven through its length -by some great convulsion. The fissure just at the bridge, is by some -admeasurements, two hundred and seventy feet deep, by others only two -hundred and five. It is about forty-five feet wide at the bottom, and -ninety feet at the top; this of course determines the length of the -bridge, and its height from the water, its breadth in the middle is -about sixty feet, but more at the ends, and the thickness of the mass, -at the summit of the arch about forty feet. A part of this thickness is -constituted by a coat of earth, which gives growth to many large trees. -The residue, with the hill on both sides, is one solid rock of -limestone.--The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but the larger -axis of the ellipsis, which would be the chord of the arch, is many -times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are -provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have -resolution to walk to them, and look over into the abyss. You -involuntarily fall on your hands and feet, creep to the parapet, and -peep over it. Looking down from this height about a minute, gave me a -violent head-ache. If the view from the top be painful and intolerable, -that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for -the emotions arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what they are -here: so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing as it -were up to heaven! The rapture of the spectator is really indiscribable! -The fissure continuing narrow, deep, and straight, for a considerable -distance above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleasing -view of the North Mountain on one side and Blue Ridge on the other, at -the distance each of them of about five miles. This bridge is in the -county of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and affords a public -and commodious passage over a valley, which cannot be crossed elsewhere -for a considerable distance. The stream passing under it is called Cedar -creek. It is a water of James's river, and sufficient in the driest -seasons to turn a grist-mill, though its fountain is not more than two -miles above." - -I confess that I am no poet; yet I was very glad to have taken the -trouble of coming hither; this rock-bridge being certainly one of the -greatest wonders of nature I have ever beheld; and I have seen Vesuvius -and the Phlegrean fields, the Giant's Causeway in Ireland, the Island of -Staffa, and the Falls of Niagara! The brook under the bridge was almost -dry; the most majestic view is from below. - -On the 23d of November we left the wretched tavern at the Natural -Bridge, and returned to Staunton in a crowded stage, in which were four -gentlemen from the state of Tennessee, members of congress, going to -Washington. I took my seat as usual alongside the coachman, where I had -more room and fresh air. We returned as far as Lexington by the road we -left it. Having stopped for a short while here, I was the object of much -curiosity to the German descendants who are settled here. The town of -Lexington was first established about forty years ago, and it now -contains eleven hundred inhabitants. In its vicinity upon a hill, is a -large arsenal covered with zinc, belonging to the United States. - -From Lexington we took another road which led us through the -considerable villages of Brownsburgh and Middleburgh. The road was in -some places very bad, and terribly rough; but we sometimes found a side -road, which in that dry season was still very good; it ran generally -through a forest. We saw lonely houses and met with many travellers on -horseback, several of them were well dressed white women. All our -coachmen in this state were whites; I was surprised at this, knowing -that black coachmen could be had at a cheaper rate, and was told that in -this state, blacks were not allowed to drive the mail stage. - -On the 24th of November, after nine o'clock in the morning, we set out -from Staunton in a hired coach, in order to pass by a circuitous route -the celebrated Wier's cave, and thence continue our journey to -Charlotteville, whither we had sent our heavy baggage by the stage. - -As far as Wier's cave, eighteen miles distant, we had a good country -road. We took our lodgings in a lonely house belonging to Mr. Mohler, -a German from Pennsylvania, of Saxon origin. The way was through a -hilly, woody country; many breaks in the earth presented limestone -rocks, and announced the proximity of caves. For a sportsman this -country must be delightful, for we saw in the woods two flocks of -partridges, which left the road, only to give way to the passing -carriage, and then settled at not more than ten paces from us. On the -banks of the creeks we saw a great number of snipes. Mohler's house is -situated on a considerable creek, called the South river, which by means -of a canal, works a grist-mill and forge. - -The grist-mill belongs to a miller, who has also a whiskey distillery, -and upwards of one hundred acres of land, with four negro slaves. He -cultivates wheat, some rye, and a great quantity of Indian corn. His -mill, a large stone building, is arranged very compendiously, and -reminded me of the large steam-mill at Baltimore. There are only two -pairs of stones, one for wheat, and the other for Indian corn. The -boulted flour is conveyed to the upper floor by means of elevators, and -spread upon it by a rake, which has a circular and horizontal motion, in -order to cool it. He sends his flour packed up in barrels to Richmond, -and even to Baltimore. The industrious Mohler has connected with his -grist-mill, a saw-mill, and a mill to break flax, which is likewise -cultivated, though not in a large quantity; this year, on account of the -dryness, it has failed. - -The entrance of the cave is about a mile and a half from Mohler's house, -and is situated in the middle of a steep side of a mountain on the bank -of the South river. We crept down the hollow, every one provided with a -taper, and came directly into a space where we could stand up; there -were some beautiful stalactites, mostly in columns. This place is called -the antichamber. Then we arrived at a hall called dragon's room, from a -stalactite, which is said to have the form of a dragon. Several of the -stalactites are not unlike waterfalls; one of them is called Niagara -Falls. - -The following gallery is called the Devil's gallery, from a figure -standing in it; yet I found in this figure more resemblance to a statue -of the virgin, than to that of a devil. - -A whole stratum of the stalactites detached from the roof of the cavern, -was as it were, suspended between heaven and earth, and afforded a fine -view, especially as a new formation of stalactites took place between -the roof and the suspended stratum. - -A narrow hollow passage leads into a more spacious cavern called -Solomon's Temple; here are very singular and mostly foliated transparent -stalactites, hanging from the roof down to the floor. Not far from that -cavern is another, named hide-room, in which the stalactites hang down -in form of hides in a tannery. Then we came into another vault, which is -called the drum-room, because if a stone is thrown against the -stalactites, they give a sound resembling that of a drum. Some of the -stalactites having the form of sticks, and ranged in circles, produce -all the sounds of an octave, if struck with a stick. You pass afterwards -through a narrow passage, by an opening, which looks like an antique -tomb in ruins, and is called Patterson's grave, in commemoration of an -individual of that name who fell in there. By means of a rather rotten -ladder, you come now into a very high smooth saloon, eighty feet long, -called the ball-room, in which benches are placed; I was told that -visitors having ladies with them, entertained themselves here very often -with dancing. Then you ascend another ladder, and creep on all fours -through a narrow hollow, which has been partly enlarged by a mine, when -you arrive at a natural, but very slippery staircase, called Jacob's -ladder, which you descend; then passing through a narrow dungeon, you -get into a more spacious room, named Senate-chamber, when by means of a -rotten ladder you reach a long gallery, called Washington-hall, from a -large stalactite standing in the middle of it, and having the form of a -statue, which is called Washington's statue. - -Not far from this statue, there is a small fountain, the water of which, -though very thirsty, I did not venture to drink, having some days since -experienced bad consequences from drinking water from limestone rocks. -Next to this hall, is a place in which the stalactites covering the -rock, have a shining crystalline-like surface, wherefore this vault is -called the diamond room. Farther on, you get in a large saloon called -the dining room, in which the stalactites represent something not unlike -a side-board set with bottles and tumblers. In Washington-hall there is -a heap of this filtered stone, called the hay-stack, and over it hangs -another stalactite, having the form of a rake. - -From the dining room, we passed into the last cave, that had been -hitherto visited, by the name of Jefferson's-hall, in which are seen -several clefts, and I am persuaded that a new passage could be easily -opened, and new caves discovered. In different spots of the cavern, -where the crust of the stalactites is broken, we saw hollows, which have -not yet been examined. Such an undertaking, seems the more worth while, -as this cave is probably in communication with the Madison's cave, which -was discovered by Jefferson, many years ago, and is in the same -mountain; its entrance being only three hundred yards distant from that -of Wier's cave. - -Wier's cave was discovered in the year 1806, by a German farmer named -Wier; Madison's cave is not any longer visited; it is said also, that -its finest stalactites have been destroyed by the indiscretion of -strangers. - -My attention in Wier's cave, was particularly attracted by plates, which -came off from the roof of the cavern, and hang from it, so that new -stalactites have been formed between them and the roof, the last giving -the others a very singular form. One of these plates looks like a large -shell of mother of pearl,--another, like a looking-glass. The cave is of -course damp, from the dripping of water, but it is less so than I -expected, and less than is the case in such caves in Germany and -England. The temperature was pretty high, and the air very pure. Our -candles burnt with a bright flame, and we felt no difficulty in -breathing. - -From Jefferson's hall, we began our rather difficult retreat, and came -again into day-light, which was already decreasing. - -We spent the rest of the evening with our friendly landlord, by a -chimney fire; he had a bible in folio, printed in Nuremberg in the year -1765, with the portraits of my ancestors, the Grand Duke William IV., -the Grand Duke Bernhard, and others. - -It was interesting to me, to be reminded of my family in such a way, -when in the interior of Virginia, and beyond the Blue Ridge. - -On the 25th of November, we set out for Charlotteville, thirty-two miles -distant, passing over the Blue Ridge. The road is through a country -little cultivated, and without a single village; and the number of -separate houses could scarcely be more than a dozen. After we had gone -about five miles, we arrived at the western base of the Blue Ridge, -which affords an agreeable view, being overgrown with wood up to the -top. Then we entered a narrow valley, and when the road began to ascend, -we alighted and walked over the mountains. I was surprised to find the -road less steep than I expected, and it was also pretty good. From -elevated places, the day being not so foggy as the preceding ones, we -had many fine views of the mountains. The wood consisted of oak trees, -and different kinds of nut trees; here and there were colossal fir, -larch, Weymouth's pine and acacia trees. Evergreen rhododendrons, for -which some amateurs in Europe spend a great deal of money, are growing -here in abundance, also wild vines, which wind themselves round the -trees. The prospect on the mountains would have been more pleasant, had -there been some marks of human dwellings, but we saw only two miserable -log houses, inhabited by dirty and ragged negro families, on the whole -tract for eight miles over the mountains; and we met but a few carts -loaded with flour. - -Having crossed the Blue Ridge, we arrived at a good-looking country -house, and a mill called Brown's Farm, situated at the base of the -mountains, and took our dinner there. This house is surrounded by fields -belonging to it, and from its piazza there is a very fine view of the -mountains. From this place we had yet twenty miles to Charlotteville. -The road became less hilly, at least we had no more mountains to cross; -however, the road continued very rough, and we were rudely jolted. About -eight o'clock in the evening we reached Charlotteville, in which the -houses appeared to be scattered. In its vicinity is a new establishment -for education, called University of Virginia. The next morning we went -to see the university, which is one mile distant from the town. - -This establishment has been open since March, 1824, and it is said to -have already one hundred and thirty students; but a spirit of -insubordination has caused many of the pupils to be sent away. The -buildings are all new, and yet some of them seem to threaten to fall in, -which may be the case with several others also, being chiefly built of -wood. The interior of the library was not yet finished, but according to -its plan it will be a beautiful one. The dome is made after the model of -the Pantheon in Rome, reduced one half. This place is intended for -public meetings of the academy: but it is said that an echo is heard in -case of loud speaking, which renders the voice of the speaker -unintelligible. - -Under the rotunda are three elliptical halls, the destination of which -is not yet entirely determined. The set of columns on the outside of -this building, I was told is to be a very fine one; the capitals were -made in Italy. - -As for the rest, the ten buildings on the right and left are not at all -regularly built, but each of them in a different manner, so that there -is no harmony in the whole, which prevents it from having a beautiful -and majestic appearance. - -The garden walls of the lateral building are also in crooked lines, -which gives them a singular but handsome appearance. The buildings have -been executed according to Mr. Jefferson's plan, and are his hobby; he -is rector of the University, in the construction of which the state of -Virginia is said to have laid out considerable sums of money. - -We addressed a gentleman whom we met by chance, in order to get some -information, and we had every reason to be satisfied with his -politeness. It was Dr. Dunglison, professor of medicine. He is an -Englishman, and came last year with three other professors from Europe. -He showed us the library, which was still inconsiderable, and has been -provisionally arranged in a lecture room; it contained some German -belles lettres works, among others a series of Kotzebue's calendar of -dramatical works. It was said a great quantity of books was coming from -Europe. - -The university is situated on a hill in a very healthy situation, and -there is a very fine view of the Blue Ridge. President Jefferson invited -us to a family dinner; but as in Charlotteville there is but a single -hackney-coach, and this being absent, we were obliged to go the three -miles to Monticello on foot. - -We went by a pathway, through well cultivated and enclosed fields, -crossed a creek named Rivanna, passing on a trunk of a tree cut in a -rough shape, and without rails; then ascended a steep hill overgrown -with wood, and came on its top to Mr. Jefferson's house, which is in an -open space, walled round with bricks, forming an oblong, whose shorter -sides are rounded; on each of the longer sides are portals of four -columns. - -The unsuccessful waiting for a carriage, and our long walk, caused such -a delay, that we found the company at table when we entered; but Mr. -Jefferson came very kindly to meet us, forced us to take our seats, and -ordered dinner to be served up anew. He was an old man of eighty-six -years of age, of tall stature, plain appearance, and long white hair. - -In conversation he was very lively, and his spirits, as also his hearing -and sight, seemed not to have decreased at all with his advancing age. -I found in him a man who retained his faculties remarkably well in his -old age, and one would have taken him for a man of sixty. He asked me -what I had seen in Virginia. I eulogized all the places, that I was -certain would meet with his approbation, and he seemed very much -pleased. The company at the table, consisted of the family of his -daughter, Mrs. Randolph, and of that of the professor of mathematics at -the university, an Englishman, and of his wife. I turned the -conversation to the subject of the university, and observed, that this -was the favourite topic with Mr. Jefferson; he entertained very sanguine -hopes as to the flourishing state of the university in future, and -believed that it, and the Harvard University near Boston, would in a -very short time be the only institutions, where the youth of the United -States would receive a truly classical and solid education. After dinner -we intended to take our leave, in order to return to Charlotteville; but -Mr. Jefferson would not consent to it. He pressed us to remain for the -night at his house. The evening was spent by the fire; a great deal was -said about travels, and objects of natural history; the fine arts were -also introduced, of which Mr. Jefferson was a great admirer. He spoke -also of his travels in France, and the country on the Rhine, where he -was very much pleased. His description of Virginia is the best proof -what an admirer he is of beauties of nature. He told us that it was only -eight months since he could not ride on horseback; otherwise, he rode -every day to visit the surrounding country; he entertained, however, -hopes of being able to re-commence the next spring his favourite -exercise. Between nine and ten o'clock in the evening, the company broke -up, and a handsome room was assigned to me. - -The next morning I took a walk round the house, and admired the -beautiful panorama, which this spot presents. On the left, I saw the -Blue Ridge, and between them and Monticello are smaller hills. -Charlotteville and the University lay at my feet; before me, the valley -of the Rivanna river, which farther on, makes its junction with the -James river, and on my right was the flat part of Virginia, the extent -of which is lost in distance; behind me was a towering hill, which -limited the sight. The interior of the house was plain, and the -furniture somewhat of an old fashion. In the entrance was a marble stove -with Mr. Jefferson's bust, by Ceracchi. In the rooms hung several copies -of the celebrated pictures of the Italian school, views of Monticello, -Mount Vernon, the principal buildings in Washington and Harper's Ferry; -there were also an oil painting, and an engraving of the Natural Bridge, -views of Niagara by Vanderlin, a sketch of the large picture by -Trumbull, representing the surrender at Yorktown, and a pen drawing of -Hector's departure, by Benjamin West, presented by him to General -KOSCIUSZKO, finally, several portraits of Mr. Jefferson, among which the -best was that in profile by Stuart. In the saloon there were two busts, -one of Napoleon as first consul, and another of the Emperor Alexander. -Mr. Jefferson admired Napoleon's military talents, but did not love him. -After breakfast, which we took with the family, we bid the respectable -old man farewell, and set out upon our return on foot to Charlotteville. - -Mr. Jefferson tendered us the use of his carriage, but I declined, as I -preferred walking in a fine and cool morning. In the afternoon we left -Charlotteville, in a tolerably good stage, in order to go to Richmond, -the chief town of Virginia, distant eighty miles. A student was our -travelling companion, and so we had plenty of room. But the stage went -only ten miles to a small tavern situated in a wood, and kept by Mrs. -Boyd. We passed by not far from Monticello, crossed the Rivanna at a -rather deep ford, and remained for some miles on its left bank. The -banks were high and rocky in some places. The road was, for the greatest -part, through a wood, hilly and rough; in some places it was what they -call causeway. - -On the 28th of November we set out at half past two o'clock in the -morning, by moonlight and very cold weather, and went seventy miles to -Richmond. The stage was better, and the road was also better than -formerly. Notwithstanding that the country continued hilly, -a considerable portion of the road was causeway, for the greatest part -of logs, and the country uninteresting. When we approached James river, -along the banks of which we went for some miles, the country grew finer, -and had it been more settled I would have compared it with that on the -Elbe, above Dresden. The ground was in the beginning loamy, then sandy. -We changed horses at isolated taverns. Gordonsville and Goochland were -the only villages through which we passed, and in these villages too the -houses were very scattered, and almost all of them of wood. We rode on -the left bank of James river, and passed by a navigable canal, which is -said to extend in land about eighty miles above Richmond, and appeared -to have been constructed with great care; the wooden bridges were neatly -constructed and solid; an aqueduct of two arches, which conducted the -canal over a brook having high banks, was well built. About eight -o'clock in the evening we reached Richmond, a town of about seventeen -thousand inhabitants of both colours. To judge by the houses, Richmond -must be a wealthy place. We took our lodgings in the Union Hotel, -a large and well-furnished inn. I felt really happy at finding myself -once again in a considerable place, as I was almost unaccustomed to such -a sight. - -We could not depart on the 29th of November, as no steam-boat went in -the direction we wished to take. My design was to go to Yorktown, to see -the remains of an English fortification of the revolutionary war, and -Fort Monroe near Old Point Comfort, and then to travel on farther to -Norfolk, to see the navy-yard, thence to hasten to the south, in order -to make up for the time I spent in Virginia. I took a walk through the -town, to look around, for there was nothing else remarkable to be seen. -The town lies on the left bank of James river, and consists of two -streets, running parallel with the river, and of several insignificant -alleys. The main street, which lies next to the river, is finished, the -other does not contain many houses; the former is probably a mile long, -paved, and has side-walks made of bricks. As they burn coal here, the -city looks nearly black. In the western part of Virginia, they only use -wood. The blacks seem to compose the most numerous part of the -population of that place. It is here where James river becomes -navigable; above the city, navigation is carried on by the -above-mentioned canal, which here joins the river, after having gone -through a large basin, at whose wharves they were yet working. This -canal descends in the city from a considerable height, by means of eight -locks; the sides of the canal between the locks are only made of plank. -On the hill where those locks begin, there is a pretty large basin, -which serves as an harbour for the boats coming from the countries -above, and bound for Richmond. In the vicinity of this basin, I saw a -hollow formed by rocks and full of wooden huts, which were inhabited by -negroes, and exhibited a true picture of human misery. This hollow has -the form of a funnel. In rainy weather, these poor people must probably -suffer a great deal from dampness. Below the locks, you cross James -river on a wooden bridge resting on wooden trestles. From this bridge -you go over a side bridge to a small island, containing a public garden, -and lying in the middle of the river; above the island a ledge of rocks -crosses the river and forms a small cataract; farther up there are said -to be several other falls in the river. - -On a hill which commands the city, stands the state-house, called the -capitol, surrounded by a newly laid out garden; it reminds one of the -Maison Quarree, at Nismes in France. On one of the smaller sides of the -parallelogram there is a portico of eight Ionic columns. But these -columns are of wood only, and have, when closely inspected, a rather -decayed appearance. On the two long sides, the building has entrances -with steps. In the hall in the middle of the house, there is a full -length marble statue of President Washington, somewhat tasteless. It -represents the great man in uniform; the right hand reposing on a cane, -the left arm on fasces, to which a sword is hanging, and against which -the plough leans. In one of the lateral chambers the court of the United -States was assembled, to try a captain of a merchant vessel, and a -Frenchman by birth. This man had twice sunk his ship, in order to get -the insurance money for it. At one of these sinkings, a lady lost her -life, and on that account the captain was accused of murder. I was sorry -I could not fully understand the debates and speeches of the advocates, -as I heard that the person under trial had the best lawyers for his -defenders. The decision did not follow. - -Behind the capitol stands the court-house, a massive building with a -portico of four Doric stone columns; in the interior of the building I -saw nothing farther remarkable. At several booksellers I asked in vain -for the plan of the city and the surrounding country, also for a -description of the canal. - -We intended to leave Richmond at three o'clock in the morning of the -30th of November, and set out on our projected tour. But, as the -ordinary stage was repairing, they put us in a small carriage with only -two horses, in which it was impossible to carry our baggage. As I would -not part with it, I gave up the tour which I had concluded on, and left -Richmond, in the morning at eight o'clock, on board the steam-boat -Richmond, to descend the James river to Norfolk. In the mean time, I had -an opportunity of noticing the particular manner in which the negroes -are treated. I wished to employ my leisure in writing; when I entered -the room, I found several slaves wrapt up in woollen blankets, sleeping -on the floor by the chimney-fire; upon inquiring, I was told that slaves -never receive a better bed. - -We had one hundred and twenty-two miles to Norfolk, and reached that -city between nine and ten o'clock in the evening. During the whole day -the weather was not clear; on the banks of the meandering James river, -which grows gradually larger, there was not any thing remarkable. The -travelling company was not large, and was composed of incommunicative -persons: I could not exchange a word with any of them. There was no -opportunity of writing, as the engine communicated such a quivering -motion to the whole vessel, that I could hardly hold my pen, and spent -my time in reading. Towards evening we perceived a large stone building -on the left bank, the only remains of James Town, the first English -settlement in Virginia. The following romantic story is related. An -Indian princess, Pocahontas, daughter of a powerful Indian chief on the -banks of this river, whose name was Powhattan, fell in love with the -English Captain Smith, who was the commander of the first settlement at -James Town. This Indian princess swam across the river in a stormy -night, in order to give notice to her lover of the conspiracy of her -father and the principal chiefs, against his life. In this manner she -saved the new settlement, and also twice afterwards under the same -circumstances. However, her lover fell at last into an Indian ambush, -and was to become a victim of the Indians. Then she laid her head down -with his on the block, and once more saved his life. This scene is -represented by a bas relief, which is in the large rotunda in -Washington. Captain Smith was a married man, and on that account could -not, when returning to England, take his benefactress with him; he made -her believe that he was dead, and secretly went on board a ship. Some -time afterwards, Pocahontas married Rolf, who succeeded her lover in the -command of the settlement, and followed him to England. She met once, by -chance, with her first lover in the street, whom she believed to have -been dead, and soon sunk into such a melancholy state, that she left -England, embarked for America, and died on the passage.[I-35] - - [Footnote I-35: She left an only son by her marriage with Rolf, - who settled himself in America, and had two daughters. From these - are descended the families of Randolph and Robinson, and from - these the family of Claiborne, consequently the two eldest - children of Mrs. Grymes, Charles and Sophrone are descendants of - the unfortunate Indian princess. In the two families, Randolph and - Robinson, the eldest son is named Powhattan, and the eldest - daughter Pocahontas. At New Orleans I became acquainted with a - member of the Robinson family who had formerly been governor of - Louisiana.] - -In very disagreeable weather we landed at Norfolk, a city of ten -thousand inhabitants, and took our lodgings in Carr's Hotel, a tolerably -good tavern. I made acquaintance with Mr. Meyau, the French Consul, -a very pleasant man. In his company I went the next day to Fort Monroe, -distant fourteen miles from Norfolk. We went in the Baltimore -steam-boat. It fortunately happened that our steam-boat, with the -steam-boat Richmond, were engaged to tow the frigate Constellation into -Hampton Roads, which could not sail on account of a feeble breeze. This -road is intended to be the principal rendezvous of the United States -navy, and is advantageously situated; it commands the Chesapeake bay, -which is to be connected by a large union canal with the Delaware, and -consequently with Philadelphia, so that the ships built in the navy yard -can go into Hampton Roads, where they will be armed. - -On a point of land called Old Point Comfort, in the above mentioned -road, on which also is a light-house, lies the principal Fort Monroe, -and before it upon the sand-bank Riprap, a small casemated fort called -Calhoun, to command the road or rather the passage from a nearer point. -To prevent this position from being turned on its right wing by a land -army, all the dry points between Norfolk and the surrounding -impracticable marshes are to be fortified, and a large central arsenal -with dry-docks is to be erected farther backwards in the bay, in order -to receive a whole fleet after a battle, and fit it out there. The -frigate Constellation, under the command of Captain Woolsey, was -designed for the West India station, called the pirate station; the -principal object being to suppress these wretches. The frigate is one of -the oldest ships, and served in the last war, but being blockaded in -Hampton roads, could not come to any engagement. She is what they call a -thirty-six gun ship, but carries forty-eight pieces, thirty-two -pounders, and caronades of the same calibre. The guns were almost all -from the captured English frigate Macedonian. - -We passed by a small fortified Island, called Crany Island, and by a -fort on our right, both rendered useless, since Fort Monroe was built, -and their works will be demolished; we approached the Constellation, our -steam-boat on her left side, where she was made fast with cables. The -steam-boat Richmond did the same on the right of the frigate. Captain -Woolsey finding that I was on board of the boat, had the kindness to -invite me on board the frigate. His cabin was in the forepart of the -gundeck; and was very neat, having four guns in it. The after-cabin was -arranged as a parlour and contained two cabinets, all tastefully -contrived. The officers had their lodgings below, as in a ship of the -line. I was very much pleased with the great neatness and general order -that prevailed. Even by the sentry at the captain's door was placed a -spit-box, and every thing of iron or copper, shone like mirrors. Instead -of the ordinary and very often incorrect hour-glasses of our ships, -there was by the sentry a chronometer, for the purpose of calling the -hour. We came on board, as the last anchor was lifted, and then -proceeded, being towed by the two boats till we came opposite Fort -Monroe; where, on account of the feeble breeze, the anchor was dropped, -and the steam-boats continued on their way. - -Captain Woolsey gave us a boat with twelve oars, under the command of a -midshipman, to carry us to Fort Monroe. A guard composed of thirty -marines was under arms, and made a military salute, whilst the frigate -saluted me with seventeen guns. When we landed we stopped at a very good -tavern, where we found two majors of artillery. After dinner we went to -survey the fortress, which General Bernard planned; but the work was yet -far from being completed. The fortress consists of a bastioned heptagon, -which can be attacked from land, but by a single front. The sides facing -the sea, are entirely casemated, and every gun has its particular arch. -On the most dangerous side where the ships of the enemy can approach the -land, there is on the counterscarp, a casemated coast-battery protected -by the fire of heavy guns on the rampart. This battery on the -counterscarp was built temporarily of wood, like a block-house, and -served the garrison for quarters. The coping is of granite, found in the -vicinity of Washington. The arches are of brick. The government does not -build by contract, but by measure, what the French call _au metre cube_; -whereby it obtains good work. The masons work only is performed by hired -workmen, mostly by blacks; other work is done by military prisoners, who -have been condemned by court martial to public labours. The garrison -consists of eleven companies of artillery, which form a provisional -regiment, and are under the command of Colonel Fenwick, and -Lieutenant-Colonel Eustis. The first officer I became acquainted with, -at General Brown's in Washington, where he is still residing. To the -latter I was recommended by Lieutenant-Colonel Bankheard from New York. -Mr. Eustis invited me to stay till to-morrow, in order to show me his -regiment; but I was obliged to decline his invitation on account of -time. - -We availed ourselves of the opportunity, which the steam-boat Potomac -presented coming from Washington to go to Norfolk, and went on board of -her in a boat rowed by artillerists. About nine o'clock, P. M. we landed -in Norfolk, all day we had disagreeable rainy weather. I designed to -stay longer in order to see the navy-yard in Gosport, a mile distant -from Norfolk; Mr. Meyau would accompany me. The landlord, who was -willing to derive as much advantage as possible from my presence, had -advertised in the papers, he would on that day give a dinner of -turtle-soup, game, wild ducks, &c, but it was written in the book of -fate, that I should not partake of these dainties. On inquiring, I was -told that the mail stage was the only ordinary means of communication -with the south, and went only on Tuesdays and Fridays to Fayetteville, -and consequently if we did not leave Norfolk in half an hour, we should -be obliged to wait until the next Tuesday. This not at all agreeing with -my travelling plan, and as a hired coach could not be procured, I packed -up my baggage in great haste, bid the friendly Mr. Meyau farewell, and -left Norfolk at half past ten o'clock in the mail stage, connected with -the Baltimore steam-boat. - -We went sixty-eight miles to Murfreesborough, where we arrived about -eleven o'clock in the evening. We crossed at first two small inlets of -the bay, on very long wooden bridges, passed through Portsmouth, a small -place near the navy-yard, where I saw the ship of the line Delaware, and -the frigate Macedonian, taken from the British, in ordinary, but had no -time to examine this very interesting establishment. We had scarcely -left this place when we entered a forest, through which we travelled -during the day. The country is a large marsh, called the Dismal Swamp, -crossed by a sandy road. The forest is very thick, and consists of oak -trees, among which I noticed the live oak, cypress, cedar and pine -trees; on the marshy spots there are evergreen trees, and bushes of the -Portuguese laurel and holly; here and there were also magnolias, and -large wild vines around the trees. This variety of vegetation must look -very fine in the summer season, however I was told that at that time -flies and mosquetos were very troublesome, and that there are also a -great many snakes. This marsh is said to be full of bears, which, -however, never attack men. In Suffolk, twenty-eight miles from Norfolk, -a small place, having wooden houses, and situated in the middle of the -forest, we took our dinner. The wheat bread became scarce by degrees, -and in its place we had a sort of cakes made of Indian corn. On the -other side of Suffolk, we passed by a cotton plantation, the first I -saw. It was already night when we passed the boundary and entered on the -territory of North Carolina. We crossed the rivers Nottoway and Meherrin -in bad and narrow ferry-boats, which were very dangerous, as the night -was very dark. Candles and lamps seem to be here very scarce; for the -few houses that we passed by were lighted with torches of pine: we took -some of them to light our way. Our journeying was very unpleasant, on -account of a rainy and very dark night. We alighted in Murfreesborough -at a tolerably good inn. - -On the 3d of December, at two o'clock, A. M., we set out in dreadful -rainy weather, which lasted all day, and travelled as far as Emerson's -tavern, seventy-five miles distant. The country still continued woody as -yesterday, and in frequent marshy spots, presented to the eye a very -pleasant variety by the evergreen trees and bushes. In some places the -country was somewhat cultivated; that is, there were some plantations -where cotton and Indian corn were raised. Such a plantation consists -only of wooden buildings; in the middle is the house of the planter, -with a piazza; on its right and left are log-houses for negro slaves, -and barns for corn and cotton. Horses are kept in very spacious wooden -stables; cows and pigs in the open air within an enclosure of worm -fences. Only fattening beasts are kept in stables. In many plantations -we saw cotton-gins, in which the seed is separated from the cotton by -means of a cylindrical hackle. These mills are worked either by water or -horses. The cotton cleaned from its seed is put into a large chest, -pressed in, and packed up. In the chest is a bag, which receives the -cotton; the cover of the chest is moveable, and is pressed on the cotton -by means of a screw turned by two horses; afterwards the cover is taken -away, the bag closed, and the bale which it forms fastened with ropes; -such a bale weighs on an average three hundred pounds. This is a very -troublesome work, and only two bales can be made in a day. If instead of -that awkward machine, they would make use of Brahmah's water press, -a great deal of time, expense and power would be spared. The bagging -made use of is wove in England. We crossed the Roanoke river in a rather -bad ferry-boat. The banks of the river are really picturesque, and -covered with a variety of southern plants, which reminded one of a park. -We dined at a very good tavern in a small town called Tarborough, -situated on the river of the same name. We had already crossed this -river, and were delighted with its fine banks. Our lodgings were at a -solitary plantation, where we arrived at eight o'clock in the evening; -the house was entirely of wood, except the chimney. It was rather -transparent; they assigned us a garret for a sleeping place, and through -the cracks in the floor we could see into the room below. If fire once -breaks out in such a house, it cannot be saved. In the morning we passed -by the smoking rubbish of a school-house, which burned down in an hour; -the brick chimney alone was standing. The log-houses of the negro slaves -in particular are very open, and present by night when lighted with pine -splinters a very singular appearance. The road was thoroughly sandy; -however, it was interrupted by log causeways, which are made over the -marshy spots, in passing which in the mail stage we were shaken to -pieces. The small town of Tarborough where we dined, is said to contain -eight hundred inhabitants, is regularly built, has broad streets, but -its houses are of wood. I saw but two built of brick; had there been -more brick houses, I should have compared this pleasant place to a -village in Holland. - -The next morning, at three o'clock, we left our airy lodgings and went -eighty-six miles to Fayetteville. During the day we travelled through a -thick forest, and did not meet with a single village; we saw some lonely -plantations of corn and cotton. During several days we saw different -species of birds, unknown to me, especially a great many large vultures, -called buzzards, the shooting of which is prohibited, as they feed upon -carrion, and contribute in this manner to the salubrity of the country. -We crossed the Neuse, a rather wide river, in a narrow and clumsy -ferry-boat. On the banks of this river, are many evergreen trees and -bushes. The oak trees are here not very high, but there is a great -variety of them: thirty-seven species are enumerated; chesnut and nut -trees are not so numerous; we were told they were common only in -mountainous countries. At a short distance from Fayetteville, where we -arrived about nine o'clock, P. M., we crossed Cape Fear river, by a long -covered bridge, consisting of hanging lattice work, of which I saw a -very good model in the patent-office at Washington. As I was very much -fatigued with the uncomfortable travelling, I intended to stay one day -in Fayetteville, a flourishing place of about four thousand inhabitants. -But I was told that no opportunity would occur sooner than three days -for Charleston. Therefore I resolved to continue our journey next -morning. A new difficulty now arose; the mail stage going directly to -Charleston, had only two horses, and could not take my baggage, whilst -the mail for the above city passing through Columbia, South Carolina, -drives four. Although the first was the direct road, and the second a -circuitous one, I resolved to take the latter. - -On the 8th of December, at three o'clock in the morning, we set out from -Fayetteville, and travelled for fifty-seven miles to Cheraw, in the -state of South Carolina, where we arrived at seven o'clock in the -evening. Our travelling company was increased in Fayetteville, by Mr. -Davis from Columbia, a young gentleman very well educated. The weather -was pretty cold, but not rainy. The way continued still through forests, -and was very sandy. We saw little interesting, except the vegetation. -We discovered new plants progressively as we advanced to the south, for -instance, jessamines and a tree hitherto unknown to me, called pride of -China, melia azedarach, which is generally seen near the houses; there -were also gum-trees. We crossed several rivers, the most considerable of -which were the great and the little Pedee, near Cheraw. In this place I -met with Commodores Bainbridge and Warrington, and Captain Biddle; these -gentlemen were appointed commissioners by the government, to determine a -place for a naval establishment on the Gulf of Mexico, becoming every -day of greater importance to the United States. They came from Pensacola -to Savannah by sea, whence they went to Washington by land. Commodore -Warrington, however, was to return to the Gulf of Mexico, where he -commanded the station. I was very much pleased with their acquaintance -and spent the evening with them. On the 6th of December, at three, A. M. -we left Cheraw and went to Camden, sixty-eight miles. We continually -rode through a thick wood. It had frozen very hard the preceding night, -and the cold continued still in the morning; but the sun appeared, it -grew warmer, and the day became very fine, as in spring. The increasing -blue of the sky, indicated that we were rapidly advancing towards the -south. The plants were much the same, but the magnolias of different -kinds, became gradually larger. Our meals showed us that we were in a -country, were rice is cultivated. - -Black creek and two branches of Lynch's creek were the most considerable -streams. The country on these creeks, on account of their evergreen -vegetation pleased me very much. The ground was sandy, and we went very -slowly on. We breakfasted and dined in solitary frame houses, which -stand upon pillars built of bricks, and permit the air to pass under -them, the walls of these buildings are so thin and disjoined, that the -daylight finds access every where. At the openings for windows, there is -nothing but shutters. It would be a good speculation to establish a -glass manufactory in this country, where there is such a want of glass, -and a superabundance of pine trees and sand. About eight o'clock in the -evening we reached Camden, a flourishing place, where we found a very -good abode. The nights were very clear; some time since I saw quite new -constellations, whilst the old ones disappeared by degrees. - -On the 7th of December, at three o'clock in the morning, we set out in -severe cold weather for Columbia. The road was as on the preceding days, -but the country grew more hilly, the sand more yellow, and mingled with -clay. We crossed the Wateree river in a small boat with much difficulty. -We reached the river by break of day. The driver often blew his horn, -nevertheless we had to wait about half an hour for the ferry-boat. At -last it came, manned by two negroes. But scarcely was the carriage in it -when another misery began. We were sitting on a bench, and the negroes -were obliged to work for half an hour before we were again afloat. -Finally, we reached the opposite shore, but the negroes were so awkward, -that they took more than a quarter of an hour, to place the boat in such -a situation as to permit the carriage to get out. We reached Columbia -about one o'clock in the afternoon, and took lodgings at Clark's hotel, -a large but merely tolerable house. We were obliged to content ourselves -with the narrowness of our lodgings, for the legislature of the state -was just assembled in that place, and all the houses were full. It is -only forty years since the city was laid out; it contains four hundred -inhabitants, is situated very pleasantly upon an eminence, below the -confluence of Saluda and Broad rivers which form the Congaree by their -junction. The town is built very regularly, contains a great number of -brick houses, and its streets, crossing each other at right angles, are -one hundred feet broad; though not paved, they are provided with large -side-walks, and rows of pride of China trees. In the surrounding gardens -of many elegant private houses, I saw a great number of evergreen trees, -mostly laurels, and also some pretty high _yucca gloriosa_, which they -call here palmetto. In Columbia there are many well-provisioned stores, -and there seemed to be a great deal of life in the place. At the common -table where many of the deputies were dining, I made acquaintance with a -Mr. Washington, from Charleston, to whom I had letters from Baltimore. -He made me immediately acquainted with several of the members of the -legislature. The governor of the state, Mr. Manning, sent me his -compliments by Mr. Butler, his aid, and invited me to an evening party. -Towards the evening Mr. Washington, a distant relation of the president, -and son of Colonel Washington, distinguished in the revolutionary war, -accompanied me to see Judge Desaussure, one of the principal men of this -city and state, to whom also, I had letters, and found in him a -respectable old gentleman. His father was a native of Lausanne, in -Switzerland, and uncle of the celebrated naturalist Desaussure. I met at -his house a large company of gentlemen, who had dined there, and became -acquainted with the governor, a very fine man. After the company had -retired, Judge Desaussure accompanied me to one of his step son's, -Colonel Blanding, civil engineer, who has the reputation of being a man -of great knowledge. The habit of chewing tobacco, practised by several -of the gentlemen, and in which they indulge even when in the society of -ladies, appeared remarkable to me. The society was numerous, and -composed of many ladies; I became acquainted with two Professors of -Columbia College, Messrs. Henry and Nott; the first is acquainted with -the French and German languages, he has translated Niebuhr's Roman -History into English. Mr. Nott studied in England and France, resided -for some time in Ghent, and married a lady of Brussels. From Mr. -Blanding's house we went to the governor's, where again a large company -was assembled to a ball. No other dances but cotillions were danced, -in the manner of the tedious German quadrilles; the band consisted of -negroes. The governor, who in this state is elected for two years, and -his lady, did the honours exceedingly well; he introduced me to all -present, gentlemen and ladies. The acquaintance I made with a Frenchman, -Mons. Herbemont, was very interesting to me; he has been an inhabitant -of the United States for more than forty years, was formerly Professor -of Botany in Columbia College, and now lives upon his income. The -company remained together until the evening. - -On the next morning I received visits from Messrs. Desaussure and -Herbemont, who came with the design of showing me the few curiosities of -the city. We went at first to see the water-works, which provide the -whole city with water. In a hollow place there is a basin, or rather a -reservoir, to which several fountains have been conducted. From this -reservoir the water is pumped by means of a steam-engine having two -horse-power, and driven into the city, which is situated one hundred and -thirty feet above it. The water is distributed in the different parts of -the town by pipes, which are in the middle of the streets. At different -places the tubes are provided with fire-plugs, constructed according to -the plan of Mr. Blanding. - -Afterwards we went to see the state-house, a large wooden building, -which will probably in a few years be replaced by one of stone. In one -of the halls of the state-house, the senators, forty in number, were -assembled under the presidency of Mr. Johns; in another were the hundred -and twenty representatives: the speaker was Mr. O'Neil. The halls are -very plain. The senators as well as the representatives, sit in a -semicircle, and the speaker in a more elevated place in the middle. -During my presence, the debates in both chambers were on no interesting -subjects, therefore I did not stay long. In the senate chamber hung two -pictures of no great excellence, by an artist of Charleston: the battle -of Eutaw in the revolutionary war, under General Greene, and the defence -of the lines at New Orleans, by General Jackson. In a few days an -interesting object was to be taken into consideration, namely, the -question if the government of the United States have the right to lay -out canals and public roads in the different states of the union, or -not! Reasonable men conceive that the government must have the power to -execute such works; on the other hand, the short-sighted, from certain -envy between the states, dispute this right with the government. The -jealousy between the states seems to take the upper hand. The state of -South Carolina intended to make a public road, leading from Charleston -westwards to the state of Tennessee; this road would have passed for -some miles through the state of North Carolina, the state of North -Carolina opposed its execution, under the pretext that the road would -not bring sufficient profit to the last state, although the two first -states would have executed it at their own expense. The true reason of -this opposition is said to be that the advantage of that road to the -state of South Carolina, was grudged by the other states. - -From the state-house we went to Columbia College; it is an university, -but has neither medical nor theological faculties. There are six -professors. Dr. Cooper is the president, with whom I became acquainted -last summer in Boston: on his return home, he was taken sick in -Richmond. - -The number of students was one hundred and twenty, who live in two large -buildings, opposite each other; between them is the house of the -President, and on both sides the houses of the professors. We paid a -visit to Mr. Vanuxem, Professor of Natural History. He showed us the -collection of minerals belonging to the college, but not so interesting -as the collection of minerals of South Carolina, made by him last -summer. There were several fine tourmalines, emeralds, pyrites -containing gold; a new kind of metal called Columbian, asbestus and -different specimens of primitive rocks. There was also pure gold from -North Carolina, which was only discovered about six years ago. When at -Cheraw, I was willing to make an excursion to the gold mine, but it -would have taken me a couple of days. I was told, gold is found in a -slime, which is dried up and then sifted, the gold dust remaining in the -sieve. But miners are expected from Germany, and at their arrival, they -will begin a regular exploration. It is said, that at present the -company has a profit of twenty dollars a week. I visited also the -library, which was not considerable, and did not contain any thing -remarkable. On this occasion I made acquaintance with a Mr. Elliott, who -had published a Flora of the state of South Carolina; he extolled the -botanical treasures of that state. A small observatory was shut up; -perhaps they would not show it to me, because there were but few -instruments. - -In Mr. Herbemont's garden, we saw some very interesting plants and -trees; magnolias, gardenias, pomegranate and other fruit trees, which he -had grafted in a very singular manner one upon another; date palm trees -and fig trees, raised from kernels, and a great number of evergreen -laurel trees. - -A mile from the city, on the left bank of the Congaree river is a canal -three miles in length, to avoid some rapids, which are in the river. -This canal has four locks, and the difference of the level of the water -above and below them, is thirty-six feet. Two are built of granite, -which is obtained close to the canal. Several blocks have been blown up, -to make way for the canal. The other two are of brick, and the mason -work appeared to me to have been well executed. They were just building -a wooden bridge over the Congaree, in order to lead to Augusta; the -bridge was to be supported by eight piers of stone. They are made of -granite without any lime or cement.[I-36] The exterior stones were -chiseled and connected with cramp-irons. The undertaking was contracted -for at seventy thousand dollars. - - [Footnote I-36: Because they would be obliged to bring it from the - northern states at a great expense.] - -Not far from the bridge are several cotton plantations belonging to the -wealthy family of Taylor. On one of these fields the harvest was just -making by fifty-eight negroes of both sexes. They take the cotton by -hand from the capsules, look at it, that no withered leaves may be -attached to it, and throw it into bags, which are hanging before them; -afterwards they shake the cotton from the bags into baskets which are -prepared for that purpose. These negroes made a very disagreeable -impression upon me, especially when some of the women asked Mr. -Herbemont for some chewing tobacco. I saw here some fine oak and pine -trees, the latter are very abundant in all the woods we lately passed -through. They have extremely long leaves; the young shoots particularly -have a fine appearance. The leaves are more than a foot in length, and -the shoot looks like the bunch of horse-hairs on the caps of the -Prussian grenadiers. On the trees hangs a long moss-like plant called -Spanish beard. They pick up this plant, put it into water, to rot the -grayish bark, and employ the black fibres which then make their -appearance, like horse-hair, for making mattresses, which are even -exported to Europe. Finally, we saw several aromatic and medicinal -herbs, for instance, the _monarda punctata_, the juice of which, mixed -with that of an onion, is said to be very efficacious in gravel -complaints. - -The Lunatic Asylum of Columbia is situated in an open place out of the -city. It consists of a principal building adorned with a portico of six -columns. In this building are lodgings for the inspectors, offices, and -rooms for persons of moderate fortune. Two wings are connected with the -principal building, and form obtuse angles with it, each of them is -three stories high, in which the lunatics are placed. By degrees, as the -income of the establishment increases, other wings will be built, and -the whole will form an octagon. There is on the principal building a -spire, from which is a very extensive view, though you see nothing else -but woods. The distempered in mind will find here many conveniences when -the buildings are completed: namely, good rooms, gardens, and walking -places on balconies, inclosed with high walls. - -A Catholic chapel in Gothic style has been built in Columbia by -subscription, but the amount collected, being not sufficient, a lottery -has been opened to obtain the deficiency! Next to the chapel is a -theatre, which likewise is unfinished by the undertaker, on account of -insufficiency of funds. - -At Professor Henry's, a very agreeable society assembled at dinner. At -that party I observed a singular manner which is practised; the ladies -sit down by themselves at one of the corners of the table. But I broke -the old custom, and glided between them: and no one's appetite was -injured thereby. - -I spent one evening at a ball given by Mr. Taylor, a rich proprietor, at -one of his plantations. I found there a numerous and splendid society. -But the music was of a singular kind; for the blacks, who two days ago -played very well at the governor's, were now drunk, and could not make -their appearance. This was the reason that the whole music consisted of -two violins and a tamborine. This tamborine was struck with a terrible -energy. The two others scraped the violin, in the truest signification -of the word; one of them cried out the figures, imitating with his body -all the motions of the dance. The whole of it amused me much; for the -rest, I was astonished at the great plainness of the house. Besides the -first room, there were three rooms open, which had white walls, and were -without window-curtains. - - -END OF VOL. I. - - - * * * * * - * * * * - * * * * * - - - TRAVELS - - through - NORTH AMERICA, - - during the - YEARS 1825 AND 1826. - - * * * - - By His Highness, - BERNHARD, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR EISENACH. - - * * * - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - * * * - - VOL. II. - - * * * - - PHILADELPHIA: - CAREY, LEA & CAREY--CHESNUT STREET. - - * * * - - 1828. - - - - - Skerrett--Ninth Street, - Philadelphia. - - - - -TRAVELS, _&c._ - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - _Journey to Charleston, and Residence in that City-- from the 11th - to the 19th of December, 1825._ - - -On the 11th of December, we were prepared before five o'clock to travel -in the mail stage from Columbia to Charleston, one hundred and twenty -miles distant. Unfortunately, our coachman had, the evening before, -involved himself in a quarrel with a watchman, who attempted to arrest -his sable Dulcinea, and given him a stab with a knife. It was feared -that the watchman, who was the father of a family, would die. The -coachman was immediately taken into custody. We were, consequently, -obliged to remain till seven o'clock, since the contractor of the mail -stage was unable to find another white driver sooner, and according to -law, no negro could convey the United States' mail. - -Our company was very pleasant; I especially remarked a Mr. Bacott, from -Charleston, and young Mr. Ramsay, as being well-informed men. Three -miles below Columbia, we crossed the Congaree in a wretched boat, and on -the right bank of the river, passed through a little place called -Granby, which formerly had been a German settlement, called Saxe-Gotha. -The road was, without exception, sandy, swampy, and at times hilly. The -stage travelled very slowly, and for the greater part of the way, I left -it behind, being on foot. It was nearly a continued forest, composed -mostly of pine and oak trees, from which the Spanish moss hung in such -quantities, that the appearance was far from agreeable. The number of -the magnolia, kalmia, and gardenia trees increased, and also of the -_yucca gloriosa_, which until now were situated principally in the -neighbourhood of the dwellings. We also saw more live oaks here, of -which the timber is uncommonly excellent for ship-building, because it -does not rot, and cannon-shot in striking it produce no splinters. -Towards evening, we passed the village of Orangeburg, with wooden -houses. We supped in a solitary house, and at the same time met the mail -stage coming from Charleston, in which we took seats. It had been built -for General La Fayette, and was named the La Fayette stage. We proceeded -through the whole night: the day had been pleasant, the night, however, -was extremely cold: I suffered considerably, as I sat upon the -coach-box, where I always took my seat, for the advantage of free air -and prospect. - -We travelled during the forenoon of the 12th of December, constantly -through a forest. The number of live oaks increased, and they were -really beautiful. The solitary fan-like macaw trees, which we took -notice of, were small. The yuccas multiplied every moment. The last -place before reaching Charleston, was Dorchester. We then passed by an -old church, nearly in ruins, called St. Andrews, which has survived -since the time of the English government. It stands in the midst of a -venerable church-yard, under lofty live oaks and hickories, with -palmettoes and macaw trees growing between the graves. The whole had a -picturesque aspect. The plantations succeeded each other more -frequently, presented a more agreeable appearance, and every thing -showed marks of the proximity of a large city. At length, in the -afternoon, we left the continued forest, and entered upon an open swampy -district. Charleston extended before us. The city, distinguished as a -seaport, lies upon a tongue of land, formed by the rivers Ashley and -Cooper: we crossed the Ashley to reach the city. A causeway, constructed -of fascines, passes through the swamp to the ferry. The river is -three-quarters of a mile broad; we crossed it in an eight-horse -team-boat. A wooden bridge, which formerly crossed the river here, was -destroyed by a severe storm, and never again rebuilt. Upon the right -bank, in the vicinity of Charleston, an entirely novel spectacle -expanded itself to my view. The houses of the suburb, were, for the most -part, surrounded by gardens, in which orange trees, with most splendid -ripe fruit, monthly roses in full bloom, and a variety of other -flourishing plants displayed themselves. The greater part of the -habitations have piazzas and spacious balconies. Upon the walls and -columns run creeping vines, we took notice of a great number of passion -flowers. I felt delighted with this southern climate. - -Charleston has a population of forty thousand inhabitants, about -twenty-five thousand of these are free. The city is regularly built, the -streets cross each other at right angles. The smallest streets are -paved, all have brick side-walks. The paving-stone is imported from the -northern states, on this account it is an expensive article, and the -paving of the streets can only be gradually effected. In the suburb we -passed through a street which was a log causeway. The principal part of -the houses are, it is true, built of wood, and all are, as I am told, -covered with shingles, on account of the frequent prevalence of severe -tempests; the more recent are, however, of brick, and in very good -taste. I took up my abode in Jones's Hotel, a well supported and finely -situated house, whose host was a mulatto. I had the pleasure to meet -here with Colonel Wool, inspector-general of the army, with whom I -became acquainted in Washington. I moreover made acquaintance with Mr. -Bee, an elderly gentleman who had travelled much, to whom I had letters; -also the late governor of the state, Mr. Wilson, with his young and -accomplished lady, from New York, who, besides her native language, -spoke French, German, Spanish, and Italian, and understood Latin and -Greek; lastly, Major Massias, army paymaster. - -A severe catarrh obliged me to remain at home a whole day. The weather -was also unpleasant and stormy; Fahrenheit's thermometer had fallen to -twenty degrees, which degree of cold is here extremely uncommon. In the -meantime, I received visits from a number of the distinguished -inhabitants: from Dr. Tidyman, whom I had known in Philadelphia; from -Mr. Lowndes, to whom I had introductory letters; from Dr. Johnson, mayor -of the city; from Messrs. Pitray and Viel, French merchants; from the -Marquis De Fougeres, French consul; from Mr. Bacott, with whom I had -arrived yesterday, and from Major Massias. Some extremely interesting -strangers were also in the hotel, so that I did not lack entertainment. -The following was related to me:--Some years previous, the negroes of -the country engaged in a conspiracy to murder all the white males, and -spare none but the females. This design was found out, and it was -discovered that the original projectors were free negroes out of the -limits of the state, who travelled in the northern section of the union, -and in part were become Methodist preachers. They had returned home and -preached freedom to the slave population. Since that period the -legislature of this state has adopted very severe precautionary laws -against free negroes and mulattoes. One of them is, that no individual -of this description, if he have once left the state, shall be permitted -to return. The wife of our host, Jones, found herself in this -predicament. She had undertaken a voyage to New York, her native city, -and now dared not to attempt a return. On this account, I was informed, -had I brought a free black servant with me, he would have been taken -from me, and put in custody till I should have left the state, or I must -deposit a considerable security for him. - -I made my first excursion abroad in company with Colonel Wool and Major -Massias, in a boat to Fort Moultrie, where the Colonel had to inspect -two companies of the third regiment of artillery, lying there in -garrison. This fort is situated at the entrance of Charleston Bay, upon -a peninsula, Sullivan's Island, which is connected with the continent by -a marshy strip of land. The vessels running into the bay are compelled -to pass within reach of the cannon of this fort. It is four miles -distant from the city, and lies about half way from each extremity of -the peninsula. Opposite is the coast battery, with a stone parapet. This -battery can receive fifty pieces of cannon. There will be no further -disbursements for the maintenance of this fort, since new works, after -plans of General Bernard, are to be placed at the entrance of the -passage, to guard against too close a blockade of the bay, so that the -ancient and more retired posts will be deprived of all their importance. -Between the city and Sullivan's Island, on a point of land to the left, -stands a defensive work called Castle Pinckney, resembling Castle Garden -in New York, on the right is situated Castle Johnson. Sullivan's Island -is exceedingly sandy, nothing but cabbage trees grow upon it, so that I -seemed transported to India. Outside the fort there are a number of -slight built wooden houses, which, during the heats of summer, and -especially when the yellow fever prevails in Charleston, are occupied by -the inhabitants of that city, for the peninsula has the reputation of -being healthier, and much more temperate in climate. The trunk of the -cabbage-tree affords a good porous timber, which is peculiarly valuable -for building in salt water, since it is not injured by it. It is highly -recommended for entrenchments, as the balls of the enemy cannot splinter -it. On the same spot where Fort Moultrie now stands, a fortress of the -same name stood in the revolutionary war, which was built in great haste -from trunks of the cabbage-tree, and maintained itself with great glory. -We had a boat, attached to the artillery, prepared for our passage, -which was manned by the artillerists. These are exercised as oarsmen in -all posts situated on the water, and this is certainly a good -arrangement, if the officers do not abuse the privilege. Our boat's crew -had unfortunately made too spirituous a breakfast, the oars of course -moved as Providence guided them, and the colonel was so irritated, that -he dispatched the whole six on landing to the black hole. I remained -during the parade of the two artillery companies in garrison. A company -of this description is with matrosses and cannoneers, fifty-five strong; -from these are subtracted, the sentinels, sick, and those under arrest, -so that both corps had scarcely sixty men under arms. The privates had -fire-arms and cartridge boxes, and the matrosses and corporals alone -carried side-arms. The haversack consisted of a wooden box, covered with -black waxed linen. They wore grey pantaloons, and boots, as our -artillery; the officers alone had white cloth pantaloons. The coats were -not well made, and did not fit; all the men had large shirt collars, -which had a bad effect, and gloves of a different pattern, because each -individual bought for himself. While the colonel was going through the -inspection, I took a walk on the ramparts with Major Massias, and -visited the officer's quarters. In the chamber of a lieutenant, in which -we stopped, I found, besides the books belonging to service, a small -library of English belles lettres, and classical poets. - -Charleston keeps in pay a company of police soldiers, who during the -night occupy several posts. They have their guard house near Jones's -Hotel, and I was startled to hear the retreat and reveille beat there. -This corps owes its support to the fear of the negroes. At nine o'clock -in the evening a bell is sounded; and after this no negro can venture -without a written permission from his master, or he will immediately be -thrown into prison, nor can his owner obtain his release till next day, -by the payment of a fine. Should the master refuse to pay this fine, -then the slave receives twenty-five lashes, and a receipt, with which he -is sent back to his master! - -The market consists of five houses, in a long street ending upon the -harbour, and resemble somewhat those of the Philadelphia market. The -quantity of the most beautiful tropical fruit therein arranged, oranges -from Florida, pistachios, and large excellent pine apples from Cuba, -interested me much. These large and delicious fruit cost only twelve and -a half cents each, of course a dollar for eight. There were nuts of -various descriptions; many sorts of potatoes, cabbages, and white and -red radishes. Fish were not presented in so great a variety as I -expected. Of shell-fish, I saw oysters only, which are roasted in the -shell at market, and consumed by the negroes with great avidity. Upon -the roofs of the market houses sat a number of buzzards, who are -supported by the offals. It is a species of vulture, black, with a naked -head. Seen from a distance they resemble turkeys, for which reason they -are denominated turkey-buzzards. They are not only suffered as very -useful animals, but there is a fine of five dollars for the killing of -one of these birds. A pair of these creatures were so tame that they -crept about in the meat market among the feet of the buyers. - -Accompanied by Dr. Johnson, Mr. Lowndes, and Dr. Tidyman, I visited the -public institutions of the city. The Court-house, in which the different -courts of justice hold their sessions, contains nothing remarkable with -the exception of the City Library in the upper story, established by -subscription. I noticed in this a beautiful collection of copperplates -from the Shakspeare Gallery, and a sketched plan of Charleston with the -investment of it in the revolutionary war. Since this epoch the city has -much extended itself. On the localities, which then were occupied by -fortifications, houses are now standing. The morasses which covered the -left wing of these works, are filled up level with earth, and no trace -of them is perceivable. - -In the City Hall, the lower story is occupied by one large saloon. It is -appropriated to the sittings of the city police. Above it are arranged -the meeting rooms of the magistracy and various separate offices. In one -of these apartments I noticed an elegant new plan of the city, designed -by an emigrant French engineer, Mr. Petitral. - -The Orphan-house is a brick building, three stories high, erected by -voluntary contributions, and in it, one hundred and thirty-six children -of both sexes are supported. I was surprized at the exceeding -cleanliness pervading the whole establishment. The children sleep upon -the floor, and the girls and sick only are allowed mattresses; the boys -have a woollen coverlet, in which they wrap themselves. I was informed -that this was done from fear of vermin. A very nourishing diet, and a -truly maternal care, preserve the children healthy. At their twelfth -year, they are provided for abroad to enable them to earn their own -subsistence. Many of the boys enter into the United States navy, and it -has been reported to me that two of the pupils of this institution have -attained the rank of officers. Behind the house is a moderately large -chapel, in the midst of the garden. The clergy of all Christian -professions can hold divine service here every Sunday afternoon; in the -mornings, the service in turn is taken charge of by a superintendent. -In front of the building is a large open square. In it stands an -ill-preserved statue of Lord Chatham, which was erected by the then -colony of South Carolina, before the breaking out of the American -revolution, in memory of that great man, in gratitude for the opposition -he maintained against colonial taxation. An inscription on the statue -mentions this. During the siege, it stood at the corner of the street, -near the City Hall. There it lost an arm by one of the first English -balls that struck the city. - -The state prison is a small building. The prisoners are too much crowded -together, and have no employment. The atrocious criminals live in the -upper story, and are immured two together in a cell, without ever being -permitted to come into the open air. This is allowed only to those -dwelling in the first story, consisting of debtors, and persons who are -imprisoned for breaches of the peace. The walls within, as well as the -flooring, are of strong oak wood. In each apartment is an iron ring in -the floor, for the purpose of securing dangerous prisoners. In the upper -story there is a negro confined, who, implicated in one of the late -conspiracies, had not committed himself so far as to allow of his being -hung; nevertheless, his presence appeared so dangerous to the public -tranquillity, that he is detained in prison till his master can find -some opportunity to ship him to the West Indies, and there sell him. In -another room was a white prisoner, and it is not known whether he be an -American or Scotchman, who involved himself by his writings deeply in -the last negro conspiracy. The prisoners received their food while we -were present: it consisted of very good soup, and three-quarters of a -pound of beef. Upon the ground floor is the dwelling of the keeper, who -was an Amsterdam Jew, and the state-rooms in which gentlemen, who are -lodged here, receive accommodation for money and fair words. The -cleanliness of the house was not very great; upon the whole it left an -unfavourable impression upon me. - -I found the other prison, destined for the punishment of minor offences -of the negro slaves, in a better condition. In it there were about forty -individuals of both sexes. These slaves are either such as have been -arrested during the night by the police, or such as have been sent here -by their masters for punishment. The house displays throughout a -remarkable neatness; black overseers go about every where armed with -cow-hides. In the basement story there is an apparatus upon which the -negroes, by order of the police, or at the request of their masters, are -flogged. The latter can have nineteen lashes inflicted on them according -to the existing law. The machine consists of a sort of crane, on which a -cord with two nooses runs over pullies; the nooses are made fast to the -hands of the slave and drawn up, while the feet are bound tight to a -plank. The body is stretched out as much as possible, and thus the -miserable creature receives the exact number of lashes as counted off! -Within a year, flogging occurs less frequently: that is to say, -a tread-mill has been erected in a back building of the prison, in which -there are two tread-wheels in operation. Each employs twelve prisoners, -who work a mill for grinding corn, and thereby contribute to the support -of the prison. Six tread at once upon each wheel, while six rest upon a -bench placed behind the wheel. Every half minute the left hand man steps -off the tread-wheel, while the five others move to the left to fill up -the vacant place; at the same time the right hand man sitting on the -bench, steps on the wheel, and begins his movement, while the rest, -sitting on the bench, uniformly recede. Thus, even three minutes -sitting, allows the unhappy being no repose. The signal for changing is -given by a small bell attached to the wheel. The prisoners are compelled -to labour eight hours a day in this manner. Order is preserved by a -person, who, armed with a cow-hide, stands by the wheel. Both sexes -tread promiscuously upon the wheel. Since, however, only twenty-four -prisoners find employment at once on both wheels, the idle are obliged -in the interval to sit upon the floor in the upper chambers, and observe -a strict silence. One who had eloped several times from a plantation, -was fastened by a heavy iron ring, that passed over his leg to the -floor. To provide against this state of idleness, there should be -another pair of tread-wheels erected. The negroes entertain a strong -fear of the tread-mills, and regard flogging as the lighter evil! Of -about three hundred and sixty, who, since the erection of these -tread-mills, have been employed upon them, only six have been sent back -a second time. - -The poor-house, an old building raised by subscription, contains one -hundred and sixty-six paupers. It will only admit such poor persons as -are completely disabled. Those who can labour a little can obtain the -employment they desire, and then receive good attendance and proper -support. The sick were taken care of in a distinct infirmary, where each -had a separate bed. The healthy slept upon the floor. I enquired why the -sick were not provided with iron bedsteads in place of the wooden ones -they occupied? and was informed that it was from apprehension of the -prevailing severe thunder-storms. - -Connected with the Poor-house is a Magdalen Asylum, which provides -shelter and care for thirty unfortunate beings. It struck me forcibly, -as I saw under an open shed in the yard where the poor walked about, the -dead cart, and close by it numbers of empty coffins piled up together, -that the scene might be very well introduced in a monastery of the order -of La Trappe. - -A medical school is to be built not far from the poor-house. Until the -completion of this structure, the students, one hundred and twenty in -number, receive their instruction in a wooden building, in which there -are arranged an amphitheatre, and a chemical laboratory. - -Dr. Tidyman and Mr. Lowndes had the politeness to show me a rice mill -established a few years ago. This mill is the property of Mr. Lucas, who -has fixed a similar one in the neighbourhood of London. Rice is known as -the staple article of produce of the lowlands in South Carolina, and yet -there was no mill hitherto to free the rice from its husk, and to -prepare it for use or export. This mill is situated near the river -Ashley. The schooner that conveys the rice from the plantation, lies -directly before it, a cart is taken on board the vessel filled with -rice, and by means of an inclined plane drawn into the mill, where it is -deposited. Hence the rice is drawn to the upper story, in which it is -cleared of dust by a fan, and passed between two large mill-stones which -frees the hull from the grain. It is then placed in a cylinder of -bolting cloth. By this it is further cleaned from all the hull. Now it -comes into the trough, where it is beaten by heavy hammers faced with -tin, and by that means is completely cleaned. It is once more conveyed -into a bolting cylinder, where, by another series of revolutions, it is -freed from the slightest dust, and shook through a tube into the tierces -placed for packing. The tierces stand upon a trunnel, which whirls round -while a hammer continually strikes upon it. Such a tierce in this way -receives six hundred pounds of rice. The machinery is to be set in -motion in future by a steam-machine of twenty-four horse-power. It is -wonderful, however, that the best steam-engines must be made in England -to supply a country that has numbered ROBERT FULTON among her citizens! - -Dr. Tidyman honoured me with a dinner, at which I met several of the -distinguished inhabitants of the place, as Mr. Lowndes, Major Garden, -son of that Scotch physician to whose honour Linnaeus has given the name -of Gardenia to a class of plants; Mr. J. Allen Smith, who passed -seventeen years of his life in Europe, principally in Russia, and -enjoyed the especial favour of the Emperor Alexander; he was present at -my brother's marriage, and enquired after him in the most ardent manner. -This extremely amiable and interesting man has lost the greater part of -his property. Here also I met with the Marquis de Fougeres, Mr. Viel, -and the English Consul, Mr. Newman. After dinner was over, a numerous -company of gentlemen and ladies assembled, who remained in society -through the evening. We had music, some of which was very good. - -In one of my strolls through the city, I talked with a person from -Erfurt, Mr. Siegling, who had established a music store here, and -appeared to do very good business. I saw at his residence several -handsome English harps and piano fortes; also several wind instruments -of different kinds. He pricks the notes himself on tin, and has a press -with which he prints them. - -In Charleston there exists among the Germans, and their descendants, who -for the most part are tradesmen of small capital, but persons of great -respectability, a Friendly German Society. - -On Sunday the 18th of December, two members of this Society, the militia -Colonel Sass, a native Hessian, who had already passed fifty-two years -in this country, and Mr. Strohhecker, came to take me to the Lutheran -church. The Lutheran preacher, Mr. Bachman, a native of Troy, in the -State of New York, administered divine service in the English language. -The church has been built but a few years. It is simple within, but in -very good taste. The organ is good, and was well played, and the hymns -sung in unison by the congregation. Mr. Bachman delivered an excellent -sermon upon the story of Cornelius, from the Acts of the Apostles. -Afterwards he detailed a report of a journey of about eight hundred -miles, which he had performed through the interior of this state, for -the purpose of examining the condition of the various Lutheran -congregations. The report upon churches and schools appeared very -favourable. This service displayed so much benevolence, and real -goodness, that I felt truly edified. - -Upon the following day I was accompanied by Mr. Bacott and his -brother-in-law, to St. Michael's episcopal church, to see the building, -and particularly the steeple, one hundred and eighty-six feet high. We -mounted two hundred and thirty-six steps, and enjoyed a very handsome -prospect over the regular built city, the bay, and adjacent country. The -bay, with its protecting forts, showed to great advantage; the -surrounding district not so agreeably, it being very level and overgrown -with wood. In the city several buildings reared their heads, among -others, the churches, and there are here twenty-two churches belonging -to various sects, then the orphan-house and custom-house. St. Michael's -church contains in itself nothing worthy of remark, if you except some -simple funeral tablets. The churches, moreover, stand in the centre of -burial grounds, and the custom still prevails, so injurious to health, -of entombing the dead in the city. - -On the same day, the last of my stay in Charleston, I was present at a -dinner which the German Friendly Society gave in compliment to me, -having invited me by a deputation. The party met at half past three -o'clock. The company was composed, with the exception of the mayor, Dr. -Johnson, of more than sixty persons, for the most part Germans or of -German origin. It was assembled in a house belonging to the society, -in which, besides the large assembly room, was also a school for the -children of the members, and the dwellings of the preceptors. The -society was instituted in the year 1766, the principal founder was -Captain Kalteisen, a native Wirtemburger, who had raised a volunteer -corps of fusileers from the Germans then living there, with which he not -only distinguished himself in the defence of Fort Moultrie against the -English, but also personally, during the whole war, rendered the most -important services as adjutant quarter-master-general in the staff of -the southern army. The company of fusileers always preserved their -connection with the German Society. Kalteisen himself died in the year -1807, as commandant of Fort Johnson; he was so attached to this German -association, that he had himself buried in the yard of the building, the -bricks of the pavement mark the form of his coffin over it, and a tablet -of marble in the hall contains an inscription to the memory of the -deceased. In the great hall, his portrait hangs next to that of Colonel -Sass, who after him commanded the company, and of a Wormser, named -Strobel, who was a joint founder of the society, and whose sons and -nephew appeared at table. Two brothers, Messrs. Horlbeck, presided at -the dinner, which was very well arranged. They had the politeness to -nominate me an honorary member of the society, and to present me their -laws for my signature; under them were here and there crosses only. -Several of the usual toasts were given out; my health being drank, -I returned my thanks in the German language. There was also singing. The -melody was guided by an old Mr. Eckhardt, a Hessian that had come to -America with the Hessian troops, as a musician, and remained here. He is -now organist of one of the churches, and three of his sons occupy the -same station in other churches. The German society possesses, moreover, -a library, which owes its origin to donations. In the school-room there -was a planetarium, very neatly finished, set in motion by clock-work. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - _Journey from Charleston, through Augusta, Milledgeville, Macon, - and the country of the Creek Indians, to Montgomery, in the - State of Alabama._ - - -My design had been to travel from Charleston to Savannah. I understood, -however, that the stage to Savannah was very bad; that the steam-boat -went very irregularly; that Savannah had lost its importance as a place -of trade, and on the whole, contained nothing worthy of observation. As -this tour would cost me many days, and a circuitous route, I resolved to -relinquish the visit to Savannah, and betake myself the nearest way to -Augusta, one hundred and twenty-nine miles distant; thence by -Milledgeville through the Creek Indians, to go into the state of -Alabama. Colonel Wool liked my plan, as also did Mr. Temple Bowdoin, an -Anglo-American, a very polished man, who had travelled, and who in his -younger days served in the British army. We had engaged the mail stage -for ourselves alone, and in it left Charleston on the 20th of December. - -We passed Ashley river at the same place, and in the same team-boat, -as I did eight days back. It was at low ebb, and many oyster banks were -exposed dry. This was a novel spectacle to me. The oysters stood -straight up, close together, and had somewhat the appearance of a brush. -Several negroes were employed in taking them out of the mud, in baskets. -Even on the piers of the bridge, many oysters were sticking fast. On the -opposite shore the road ran through a country generally woody, but -partly ornamented with plantations. Several of these plantations are -pretty, commonly an avenue of ancient, well preserved live oaks, leads -up to the mansion-house, at the entrance of which a grated gate is -placed. Maize and cotton are planted here, and in some places also rice, -which is the staple of the lower part of South Carolina. The rice fields -must stand several months of the year under water. On this account they -are situated in swampy districts, and surrounded by ditches of water. -But in consequence of this, these places are so unhealthy, that hardly a -white planter can remain during the summer on his plantation; he is -obliged to resort to Charleston, or the northern states. The climate of -Charleston is such, that whoever is there in the beginning of the hot -season, dares not to sleep a single night during the continuance of it, -upon a plantation, without exposing his life to imminent danger. The -blacks are the only human beings on whom this deadly climate has no bad -effect, and they are, therefore, indispensable for the cultivation of -this district. The vegetation was again extremely beautiful, noble live -oaks, laurel trees, magnolias, cabbage and macaw trees. The road ran -upon light bridges over small rivers, on the banks of which negroes were -busied in angling. We saw the family of a planter in an elegant boat, -manned by six black oarsmen, rowing to their plantation. In a large inn, -which was itself the mansion-house of a plantation, we found a -particularly good dinner. In the evening we crossed the Edisto river in -a narrow ferry-boat, for the arrival of which we were obliged to delay a -long time. The soil was mostly very sandy, partly also marshy, and the -jolting log causeways made us tired of our lives. On this side of the -river we arrived at the village of Edisto. We travelled through the -whole night, and I suffered much from the cold in my airy seat. -Otherwise, it was a clear moonlight, and if it had been a little warmer -would deserve the appellation of a fine night. We changed our stage -during the night, but gained nothing. - -The succeeding morning exhibited all the ponds of water covered with a -crust of ice. We passed the Salkechee and Cambahee rivers upon bridges, -and noticed nothing worthy of observation. The vegetation was less -beautiful than on the preceding day; the plantations were also less -considerable. At a new plantation, at which we arrived about break of -day, I spoke to the overseer of the negroes. The man's employment I -recognised from his whip, and from the use he made of it, in rousing up -the negroes to make a fire. He told us that in the district, where the -plantation was situated, and where maize and cotton were planted, but a -little time before there was nothing but forest; his employer had -commenced in 1816, with two negroes, and now he possessed one hundred -and four, who were kept at work in clearing the wood, and extending the -plantation. The cotton crop was finished in most of the fields, and -cattle were driven in, to consume the weeds and tops of the bushes. -We passed several mill-ponds, and saw some saw-mills. Only pine trees -appeared to flourish in this part of the country; upon the whole, it was -hilly, and the progress was tedious through the deep sand. We passed the -river Savannah three miles from Augusta, in a little ferry-boat. The -left bank appeared here and there to be rocky, and pretty high; the -right is sandy. When we crossed the river, we left the state of South -Carolina, and entered that of Georgia, the most southern of the old -thirteen United States, which in fifty years have grown to twenty-four -in number. We reached Augusta in the evening at nine o'clock, on a very -good road, a scattered built town of four thousand six hundred -inhabitants, of both complexions. We took up our quarters in the Globe -Hotel, a tolerable inn; during the whole day it was very clear, but cold -weather, in the evening it froze hard. The old remark is a very just -one, that one suffers no where so much from cold as in a warm climate, -since the dwellings are well calculated to resist heat, but in nowise -suited to repel cold. - -We were compelled to remain in Augusta during the 22d of December, as -the mail stage for the first time went to Milledgeville on the following -day, and Colonel Wool had to inspect the United States' arsenal here, -which contained about six thousand stand of arms for infantry. We -understood that Mr. Crawford, formerly embassador of the United States, -in Paris, afterwards secretary of state, and lastly, candidate for the -office of president, was here at a friend's house. We therefore paid him -a visit. Mr. Crawford is a man of gigantic stature, and dignified -appearance; he had a stroke of apoplexy about a year since, so that he -was crippled on one side, and could not speak without difficulty. To my -astonishment, he did not speak French, though he had been several years -an envoy in Paris. They say, that Mr. Crawford's predecessor in Paris, -was chancellor Livingston, this gentleman was deaf; both Livingston and -Crawford were introduced to the Emperor Napoleon at the same time; the -emperor, who could carry on no conversation with either of them, -expressed his surprise, that the United States had sent him a deaf and -dumb embassy. I likewise reaped very little profit from Mr. Crawford's -conversation. As he was an old friend of Mr. Bowdoin, almost all the -benefit of it fell to his share, and I addressed myself chiefly to his -daughter, and one of her female friends, who were present. Much indeed -was to be anticipated as the result of a conversation with the daughter -of such a statesman. She had been educated in a school of the southern -states. My conclusion was, the farther south I advanced, so much the -firmer am I convinced that the inhabitants of these states suffer in -comparing their education with those of the north. To conclude, Mr. -Crawford was the hero of the democratic party, and would, in all -probability, have been chosen president in the spring of 1825, had not -his apoplectic attack supervened. On account of his indisposition, -General Jackson was pushed before him; and so much was brought forward -against the individual character of this person in opposition, that the -present incumbent, Adams, on that account, succeeded. - -The city of Augusta is very regularly built. The main street is about -one hundred feet wide, it contains many brick houses, and good-looking -stores. None of the streets are paved, but all have brick foot-paths. -A wooden bridge, three hundred and fifty yards long, and thirty feet -wide, crosses from the neighbourhood of the city, to the left bank of -Savannah river, the city lies on the right bank. Along the bank is -erected a quay in the manner of a terrace, which is one of the most -suitable that I have seen; for it is accommodated to the swell of the -river, which often rises above twenty feet. It has three terraces. The -lower one has a margin of beams, mostly of cypress timber, at which, -in the present uncommon low stage of the water, the vessels are loaded. -From the second terrace, (which as well as the upper one, has a brick -facing,) are wooden landings reaching to the edge of the under terrace, -by which, at higher stages, the vessels may land there. The upper -terrace is paved with large stones, which are quarried above the city. -The quay, as well as the landings, belong to the State Bank of Georgia: -the landings produce fifteen per cent. annually. - -Augusta is the depot for the cotton, which is conveyed from the upper -part of Georgia by land carriage, and here shipped either to Savannah or -Charleston. We noticed a couple of vessels of a peculiar structure, -employed in this trade. They are flat underneath, and look like large -ferry-boats. Each vessel can carry a load of three hundred tons. The -bales of cotton, each of which weighs about three hundred pounds, were -piled upon one another to the height of eleven feet. Steam-boats are -provided to tow these vessels up and down the stream, but on account of -the present low state of the water, they cannot come up to Augusta. -I was assured that year by year between fifteen and twenty thousand -bales of cotton were sent down the river. The state of South Carolina, -to which the left bank of the river belongs, was formerly compelled to -make Augusta its depot. To prevent this, Mr. Schulz, a man of -enterprise, originally from Holstein, has founded a new town, called -Hamburg, upon the left bank of the river, close by the bridge, -supported, as is said, by the legislature of South Carolina with an -advance of fifty thousand dollars. This town was commenced in the year -1821, and numbers about four hundred inhabitants, who are collectively -maintained by the forwarding business. It consists of one single row of -wooden houses, streaked with white, which appear very well upon the dark -back ground, formed by the high forest close behind the houses. Nearly -every house contains a store, a single one, which comprised two stores, -was rented for one thousand dollars. Several new houses were building, -and population and comfort appear fast increasing. The row of houses -which form the town, runs parallel with the river, and is removed back -from it about one hundred and fifty paces. Upon this space stands a -large warehouse, and a little wooden hut, looking quite snug, upon the -whole, with the superscription "Bank." A Hamburg bank in such a booth, -was so tempting an object for me, that I could not refrain from -gratifying my curiosity. I went in, and made acquaintance with Mr. -Schulz, who was there. He appears to me to be a very public-spirited -man, having been one of the most prominent undertakers of the landings -and quay of Augusta. It is said, however, that he only accomplishes good -objects for other people, and realizes nothing for himself. He has -already several times possessed a respectable fortune, which he has -always sunk again by too daring speculations. This Hamburg bank, -moreover, has suspended its payments, and will not resume business till -the first of next month. On this account, it was not possible for me to -obtain its notes, which, for the curiosity of the thing, I would gladly -have taken back with me to Germany. - -On the 23d December we left Augusta, about four o'clock, by moonlight, -and the weather pretty cold, in the miserable mail stage, which we had -engaged for ourselves. It went for Milledgeville, eighty-six miles -distant from Augusta. The road was one of the most tedious that I had -hitherto met with in the United States; hilly, nothing but sand, at -times solitary pieces of rock, and eternal pine woods with very little -foliage; none of the evergreen trees and the southern plants seen -elsewhere, which, new as they were to my eye, had so pleasantly broke -the monotony of the tiresome forests through which I had travelled from -the beginning of December; even the houses were clap-board cabins. Every -thing contributed to give me an unfavourable impression. The inhabitants -of Georgia are regarded in the United States under the character of -great barbarians, and this reputation appears really not unjustly -conferred. We see unpleasant countenances even in Italy: but here all -the faces are haggard, and bear the stamp of the sickly climate. - -To the cold weather which we had for several days, warm temperature -succeeded to-day. We were considerably annoyed by dust. Besides several -solitary houses and plantations, we encountered two little hamlets here, -called towns, Warrenton and Powelton, this last lies upon Great Ogechee -river, over which passes a wooden bridge. We stopped at Warrenton. The -court of justice is in the only brick house of the place: close by it -stands the prison, or county gaol, a building composed of strong planks -and beams nailed together. Between Warrenton and Powelton, we had a -drunken Irishman for our driver, who placed us more than once in great -danger. This race of beings, who have spread themselves like a -pestilence over the United States, are here also, and despised even by -the Georgians. We travelled again all night; it was, however, not so -cold as the nights previous. Towards midnight, we reached a trifling -place called Sparta. We were obliged to stop here some time, as the -stage and horses were to be changed. We seated ourselves at the -fire-place in the tavern. All of a sudden there stood betwixt us, like -an evil genius, a stout fellow, with an abominable visage, who appeared -to be intoxicated, and crowded himself in behind Mr. Bowdoin. -I addressed this gentleman to be on guard for his pockets. The ruffian -made a movement, and a dirk fell from his sleeve, which he clutched up, -and made off. They told me that he was an Irishman, who, abandoned to -liquor, as most of his countrymen were, had no means of subsistence, and -often slunk about at night to sleep in houses that happened to be open. -Most probably he had intended to steal. We then obtained another driver, -whom, from his half drunkenness and imprecations, I judged to be a son -of Hibernia, and was not deceived. - -On the 24th December, we left this unlucky Sparta at one o'clock in the -morning. The driver wished very much to put a passenger in the stage -with us, which we prevented. Vexed by this, he drove us so tediously, -that we spent full eight hours going twenty-two miles to Milledgeville, -and did not therefore reach there until nine in the morning. Immediately -after leaving Norfolk, and travelling in the woods where there was -little accommodation for travellers, we had every night seen bivouacs of -wagoners or emigrants, moving to the western states--the backwoods. The -horses of such a caravan are tied to the side of the wagon, and stand -feeding at their trough; near the wagon is a large fire lighted up, of -fallen or cut timber. At this fire the people sleep in good weather, in -bad, they lay themselves in or under the wagon. After leaving Augusta we -encountered several of these bivouacs, which consist partly of numerous -families with harnessed wagons. They intended to go to Alabama, the -district of country lately sold by the United States, and there to set -themselves down and fall to hewing and building. I saw three families -sitting on a long fallen tree, to which they had set fire in three -places. These groups placed themselves in a very picturesque manner; but -their way of acting is very dangerous. The night before we saw the woods -on fire in three different directions, and the fire was without doubt -occasioned by such emigrants as these. The lofty pine trees look very -handsome while burning, when they are insulated, but the owner of the -forest has all the trouble attending it to himself. - -The country which we passed through towards morning was hilly, the -bottom constantly sandy, towards the last, mixed with clay and rock. The -trees were nothing but long-leafed pines. Close by Milledgeville, we -crossed the Oconee river on a bridge that had been finished but a few -days, and which rested on wooden piles. Until now the river was passed -by a ferry-boat. Both shores are very high and steep, so that going in -and coming out were attended with great difficulty. - -Milledgeville lies upon elevated ground, the town is very regularly -built, its broad streets are right-angled, they are, however, unpaved. -It numbers about three thousand inhabitants of both complexions. It was -established about twenty years ago, and increased very rapidly from its -commencement, as it is the capital of the state of Georgia, and the seat -of the legislature. Its increase is now calculated to be checked, since -the story goes that the seat of government will be changed to the -newly-founded town of Macon, or when the state has conquered congress in -the cause yet depending before that body, and part of the Creek Indians -territory is obtained, then it will be placed at Athens, where the -university of the state is situated. We took up our residence at La -Fayette Hall, a large tavern. - -Soon after our arrival, I took a walk through the town. It contains -mostly wooden houses, but they were good and even elegantly built, good -stores, also a bookseller's shop, and several printing presses. There -are published here four gazettes, which a little while since were -exceedingly active on the sides of the two parties who oppose each other -in the state. One party is that of Governor Troup, who, from his -discussions with the United States concerning the Creek territory, and -on account of his warmth in his official correspondence, has become -noted; the other is the party of the former governor, General Clark, who -is, in all appearance, a very mild man, and very much respected by -sensible and well-disposed persons. At the last election of the -governor, it was believed and hoped that General Clark would be chosen. -He had the majority of the legislature in his favour, yet, as the -governor in this state is chosen for two years by the people, and every -man that pays half a dollar tax has a vote, it so happened that Governor -Troup succeeded, by his popularity, in bearing off the palm. - -I examined the state-house, which is a simple, but well-finished brick -building of two stories. In the ground floor are the offices, in the -upper story two halls, one is for the senate, the other for the -representatives. In each there is a seat, with a canopy, for the -speaker. The senators have each a desk before them, in the hall of the -representatives one desk serves two persons. All places are numbered, -to prevent awkward encounters. In each hall there is a gallery for the -public. The state-house is placed alone on a little eminence. In its -neighbourhood stands the state arsenal. Another house belonging to the -state, is appointed for the residence of the governor. Mr. Troup, -notwithstanding, does not inhabit it; he has no family establishment, -and has domesticated himself in a plain boarding-house. We intended to -pay him our respects, he could not, however, receive us, as he lay -dangerously ill of a pleurisy. Through two friends, Colonel Hamilton and -Mr. Ringold, he tendered us his apologies, and these gentlemen, in his -name, proffered us their services. - -We were then carried to the state prison, a large brick edifice, under -the superintendence of Mr. Williams, and contained seventy-six -prisoners. All these were white persons, for the black were punished by -the whip, and not with imprisonment. No idleness was suffered among the -prisoners. If one understood no mechanical trade, he was obliged to -learn one. I found most of them employed in wagon and saddle-making; -others laboured in a smithy; others as shoemakers or tailors. The -greatest quiet and silence prevailed among the prisoners. Their dress is -blue, with broad white stripes upon all the seams. The interior of the -lodging-house did not please me as much as the workshops. Cleanliness, -so indispensable to such an establishment, was wanting here; it was -neither swept nor scrubbed, and in the cells of the prisoners, in which -four or five slept upon the floor, the woollen coverlets and pillows lay -confusedly together. There were also cells for solitary confinement, -this was, however, used only as a means of house discipline. The eating -room was equally disagreeable to me. A piece of cooked meat was laid on -the table for each prisoner, without knives, forks, or plates. Bread did -not appear to be furnished every day; at least the day we were there, -none was to be seen. The prison is surrounded by a high wall, at each of -its four corners stands a sentry-box for the watch, which they ascend -from without, and from which the whole yard can be overlooked. This -establishment is so well conducted, that it occasions no expense to the -state, on the contrary, it produces a profit. Upon the principal -building stands a turret, which commands an extensive view over the town -and circumjacent country. The district around appears uneven and covered -with wood, the monotony of the view is relieved by nothing. The woods -begin at the edge of the town. - -Colonel Hamilton and Dr. Rogers accompanied us on Christmas day to the -state-house. A travelling Unitarian clergyman from the northern states -held divine service in the hall of representatives. The generality of -people here are either Methodists or Baptists. As the Unitarian had -found the churches here shut on this day, he had opened his temple in -the state-house. His audience was composed of the beau monde, as a -Unitarian was something new. He delivered a good discourse, in which he -set forth pure morality, and received general approbation. After dinner -he proposed to give a second service, for the purpose of expounding the -doctrines of his belief, as founded on common sense. - -Colonel Hamilton, a particular friend of Governor Troup, was formerly -secretary of state of Georgia. The appointment to this office belongs to -the legislature. This was the cause that though Troup is again chosen -governor by the people, Mr. Hamilton and all the friends of the governor -have lost their places, which are occupied by persons attached to the -Clark party. Dr. Rodgers was secretary of the state treasury, and has -been deprived of his office from the same cause. We saw here several -Indians of both sexes, from the Creek nation, who sold bows, arrows, and -very neatly made baskets. These Indians had a much better appearance -than those I saw in the western part of the state of New York and -Canada. Afterwards several of the grandees of the country were presented -to me by Colonel Hamilton. All these gentlemen had their own peculiar -character. It was evident that they lived in a state separated from the -civilized world. - -We were constrained to remain in Milledgeville on the day after -Christmas, how unpleasant soever it might be. No stage goes from this -place through the Indian territory to Montgomery on the Alabama river, -whither we intended to bend our way. We therefore hired for this journey -of one hundred and ninety-eight miles, a four-horse extra stage, for the -price of two hundred and twenty-five dollars; this stage was at present -under repair in the state prison, and could not be placed at our -disposal before the 27th of December. It was necessary for us to have -patience, and pass the time as well as possible, and the few gentlemen -with whom we had formed acquaintance exerted themselves to amuse us. - -On the 27th of December we left Milledgeville at nine o'clock in the -morning. It was a pretty cold day, and there was ice half an inch thick. -We rode only thirty miles to Macon. In spite of the large sum of money -which our carriage had cost us, it broke twice; the repairs consumed -much time, and we left it several miles behind. The day was very clear, -and towards midday moderately warm, in the evening there was again a -strong frost. I was pleased with the dark blue of the sky, such as we -hardly have in Germany in a midsummer's day. We met with several -families, emigrating with their property to Macon and the State of -Alabama. One of these families, who had paid their wagoners beforehand, -had been left by them under frivolous pretext in the middle of the -woods, two miles from Milledgeville: we found these unfortunate persons, -who had made a bivouac, after they had waited several days in vain for -their runaway wagoner and his horses. Several lonely houses which we -passed were grog-shops, in which the neighbours were celebrating the -third day of the Christmas holy-days. Every thing as at home, thought I, -and fancied that I was in a European country. We noticed a gentleman and -lady on horseback, the horses were not loaded completely, a barefooted -negro wench was obliged to run with a heavy sack of corn on her -shoulders to feed the horses! Then I was convinced, and with pleasure, -that I was not in Europe! The road was sandy, uneven, and passed through -pine woods. This wood was here and there cleared, and a patch of cotton -and Indian corn planted. Close by Macon we crossed the Oakmulgee river -in a ferry-boat, and reached the town after sunset. We found tolerable -accommodation in a new tavern. - -The country in which Macon is situated, was first purchased from the -Creek Indians, in the year 1822, and the town began about two years ago. -In the last war, the Indians had collected a number of their people -here, and the United States built Fort Hawkins, on the left bank of the -river, at present deserted. - -In Macon we received a visit from a Colonel Danah, who formerly served -in the army, and was now settled here. He introduced to me several of -the distinguished people of the place, who had come to see me. The town -has only three streets, which crossed at right angles. At the point of -intersection is a large square, there are houses only on three sides of -it; on the fourth side it is contemplated to erect the capitol, if, -as it has been proposed, the government should be removed here from -Milledgeville. One street runs perpendicular to the line of the river, -over which a bridge is intended to be built: the mason work for its -support has been completed on both sides. The streets are about one -hundred feet wide, the roots of the felled trees are visible in them, -of which trees the houses are constructed throughout. The place contains -about sixteen hundred inhabitants, white and black. The population are -partly young people from Georgia, partly emigrants from the two -Carolinas and the northern states, who have fixed themselves here from -motives of speculation. Although the site of the new town is represented -as extremely healthy, yet they have suffered during the preceding summer -from bilious fever. The country around is little built upon, and the -woods begin not far behind the houses. - -About nine o'clock in the morning, on the 28th December, we left Macon -and rode thirty-one miles distance to the Indian agency, on the left -bank of Flint river, called by the Indians, Thlo-no-teas-kah. The road -was partly sandy, partly rocky, but extremely uneven. It was kept in -very bad order. No pains had been taken to carry away or saw through -trees, which had fallen more than a year back crosswise over the road; -the carriage was obliged to make a considerable deviation through the -woods to pass these fallen trees. The plantations by which we passed, -are all new; the houses were completely log huts. The tiresome -uniformity of the pine woods were, in the low and marshy places into -which we often came, very pleasantly interrupted by evergreen cane, as -well as by thorn oaks and laurel trees, we also saw several green-leaved -trees, chiefly oaks, as formerly. - -Towards four o'clock in the afternoon we reached the agency, a group of -twenty log houses, and some negro huts. It is appointed for the -residence of the agent of the United States with the Creek Indians, -(he, however, was absent at this time,) and is situated in a very -handsome tract of land on the left side of the Flint river, which rushes -over a rocky bed between pretty steep banks. The right bank belongs to -the Creek nation, of about twenty-one thousand souls, and is inhabited -by them. The contest between the state of Georgia and the United States -is caused by this territory. The state of Georgia had concluded a treaty -with one of the Creek chiefs, M'Intosh, concerning the surrender of this -district of land; the nation, discontented with the treaty, and is -nowise willing to evacuate their country, insisted that they had been -deceived, and killed M'Intosh. The United States espoused the side of -the Indians, and blamed the Georgia commissioners for scandalous -impositions upon the Indians. Congress is now about to decide upon this -matter. In one of the log-houses, with a Mr. Crowell, we took up our -night's lodging, and enjoyed some very well cooked venison. In a -neighbouring grog-shop we found a collection of drunken Indians, and -some negroes, who were frolicing during the Christmas holy-days. Several -of them were well dressed; they wore mocassins and leggings of leather; -broad knee-bands ornamented with white glass beads, a sort of coat of -striped cotton, and upon the head a striped cotton cloth, almost like a -turban. Several of them were very large. For a treat of whiskey, which I -gave them, eight of them performed the war dance. They skipped here and -there in a circle, moved themselves right and left, sprung against each -other, raised their hands on high, let them fall again, and bellowed -horribly through the whole scene. Some old men who stood near, took it -in dudgeon, that the young men should dance in such a way before white -people. They called to them to stop. Mr. Crowell, however, brought them -to silence easily, by whiskey. - -The colour of these Indians is a dusky brown. They have black straight -hair. Several of them possess negroes, to whom it is very acceptable to -live with them, since they are treated with more equality than by the -whites. Some of these negroes were very well clothed in the Indian -manner, they drank and jumped about with the Indians. One of them was of -colossal stature, and appeared to be in great request among the Indians, -to whom he served as interpreter. The constitution of these Indians is a -mixture of aristocratical and republican form of government. The chiefs -are chosen for life, and the dignity is not hereditary; for improper -conduct they can be deposed. They cannot write their language. Their -laws are of course very simple, and founded on traditionary usage. - -It had rained hard in the night, between the 28th and 29th of December, -it rained also in the day, almost incessantly, yet this rain was mild -and warm, nearly like a spring rain in Germany. There was a -consultation, whether we should remain or go farther on, I determined on -the latter. About nine o'clock we left our night quarters. In the -vicinity thereof, the governor of the state of Georgia had built Fort -Lawrence, which was evacuated, and given up at the peace. The houses, -which belonged to the agency, were then built as magazines and hospitals -for the troops, and arranged for a post of defence. Near the chimney, -and the doors and windows, (the last without glass sashes,) were -loop-holes pierced. Behind this post we passed the Flint river in an -Indian ferry-boat, and found ourselves landed upon their territory. We -rode twenty-eight miles farther to a lonely plantation, called Currel's. -The road ran through the worst part of the Indian lands, the woods -consisted as before, of the long-leaved pine, and it was only in damp -places we observed green leaves. In particular, there grew high and -beautiful cane. The soil is for the most part dry sand, in strata, and -particularly in the bottoms it is mixed with clay, and of a full yellow -colour. The Indians have thrown bridges over two brooks with marshy -shores, at each of them we paid, with great pleasure, half a dollar -toll-money. The bridges are indeed not remarkably good, yet better than -several in the christian state of Georgia, and even in many of the more -northern states. We met but few of the Indian inhabitants; these were -all wrapt up in woollen blankets. We only saw three wigwams, Indian -houses, chiefly toll-houses of the bridges. They resemble the -log-houses, neither are they so open as those which I saw last summer in -the state of New York. The day was exceedingly uninteresting. Mr. -Currel, with whom we passed the night, is a Virginian, who has settled -here for the opportunity of speculating among the Indians, from whom he -purchased his land at a rather cheap rate: to judge from his habits of -intoxication, he has already adapted himself too much to their mode of -life. His plantation buildings are, as all the rest, log huts: the wind -blew to our heart's content through the room; no lamp could burn, and we -were forced to use a great hearth fire to give us light. There was no -ceiling to our room, but a transparent roof of clap-boards directly over -us. I was surprised to discover Shakspeare's works in this place. In one -of the out-houses there was a very good supper set before us, at which, -especially, we had excellent venison. - -Upon the 30th of December, after we had passed a cold night in our -clap-board hut, which allowed the storm free admission, and locked our -few articles of property in our chamber, from fear of the Indians -sneaking about, we started before break of day, and rode a distance of -thirty-three miles to Fort Mitchel. The weather was cold the whole day -through, and threatened rain. The country again very uninteresting, -mostly pines, a sandy soil, here and there mingled with clay: at length -wood with green leaves. Only in low situations, along the rivulets, -of which we passed three, was the vegetation to be admired. The laurel -bushes particularly looked well. It gave me real pleasure to be able to -walk in a green thicket along a brook, which I could have accomplished -with difficulty in summer, since these bushes are the favourite resort -of a great number of rattlesnakes. In a solitary plantation we took our -breakfast; it belonged to a Mr. Colfrey, a worthy old Virginian, who had -lost a considerable property, and to better his circumstances, had -determined on the hard alternative of settling among the Indians. We -found his plantation in a very uncommon state of order and neatness, and -we were delighted by an unexpected and most excellent breakfast. Mr. -Bowdoin said to the owner of the place, that he appeared as if he had -not always lived thus among the savages, and never can I forget how the -old man, with tears in his eyes, turned away without making an answer. - -We met with several wigwams, and various temporary cabins of travelling -Indians, also a number of bridges, at which we were obliged to pay the -Indians toll. The country was very hilly till we came into a valley, -a mile from our night quarters, through which the Chatahouchee flowed. -This river empties itself into the Mexican gulf. The district, even to -the left bank of the river, is rather marshy, grown up with willows, -laurel, and cane. Not far from the river we beheld several buildings -appointed for the popular assembly of the Indians, called the big talk. -They are large and round, having a conical-formed roof, covered with -tree-bark; they have walls of lime, and a covered low entrance also of -lime. The Indians assemble in these buildings only in bad weather, or at -night, and then a fire kindled in the middle of the house, gives light. -In good weather they collect in a square place covered with sheds, under -which the Indians sit down on planks protected from the sun's heat. -There is also another place for public games, and particularly for -ball-playing. They appeared here also to have a species of masquerade, -for we found some in a half gourd, cut through and made into a mask, -with eyes and mouth cut in it, and the nose set on of a piece of wood. -From the neck of the gourd, which was cut at half its length, they had -made a pair of horns, and fasted them on the mask, and under this a long -white beard. - -We passed the river Chatahouchee at one of the ferries belonging to the -Indians, and kept in order by them. The right bank is somewhat steep, -of red earth, which, from the violent rain, had become slippery. Half a -mile from the ferry brought us to Fort Mitchel. It stood upon a height, -and was situated to the right of us. We dismounted not far from this, -between Indian wigwams at Crowell's tavern. The host was a brother of -the Indian agent. This house has also a plantation attached to it, as -the one above-mentioned had. Colonel Wool and I were lodged in an airy -out-house of clap-boards, without a ceiling, and windows without glass. -We were accommodated with freer circulation than would have fallen to -our lot in a German barn. Four companies of the fourth regiment of -infantry, the staff of which was fixed at Pensacola, lay in garrison at -the fort. The commandant, Major Donoho, and his officers had taken board -at Crowell's tavern; in the evening we made acquaintance with them. The -most of these officers, pupils of the school at West Point, were men of -information, and we passed the remainder of the evening much pleased -with their society. - -We made the 31st of December a day of rest, as Colonel Wool had to -inspect the garrison of the fort. The four companies here stationed form -properly the garrison of Pensacola, and were only sent here last summer -during the contest between Georgia and the United States, to protect the -Creeks against the encroachments of that State. It openly wishes to take -possession of the Indian territory to the Chatahouchee, to which river, -agreeable to the charter, Georgia extends. The right bank of the river, -on which we now found ourselves, is in the jurisdiction of the State of -Alabama. The troops arriving, at first encamped here, but immediately -commenced building a new but smaller fort, on the spot where Fort -Mitchell stands, so called in honour of the then governor of Georgia, -which they now occupy. They hoped, however, that they should return to -Pensacola as soon as the disagreements had been settled. - -After the inspection, we took a walk to a plantation lying near, which -belonged to an Indian named M'Intosh. He was absent at Washington as a -delegate from his nation. He is the son of that M'Intosh, who obtained -from the State of Georgia the title of General, and who last spring, on -account of the treaty with the state, had been shot by his countrymen -and hewed in pieces. Polygamy prevails among the Indians. The young -M'Intosh had indeed only two wives, a white woman and an Indian. They -say he had several wives whom he wished to keep: the white woman however -had driven them with scolding and disgrace out of the house, as she -would only submit to one Indian rival. We did not see the Indian wife. -The white wife, however, received us quite politely. She is the daughter -of a planter in Georgia, and tolerably pretty. She was attired in the -European style, only according to the Indian fancy in dress, she carried -a quantity of glass beads about her neck. She showed us her two -children, completely white, and also the portrait of her father-in-law, -as large as life, with the sword of honour given him by the United -States. The family is in very good circumstances, and possesses seventy -negroes. - -In the afternoon we went to a Methodist mission, one short mile distant. -We found none but the women at home. The missionaries have established a -school, which is frequented by thirty children. They have three Indian -girls, boarders, who were extremely modest. The mission is situated in a -handsome plantation, on which I saw tame deer. The deer here are -evidently smaller than those in Europe. - -Sunday, the 1st of January, 1826, we were awakened by the drums and -fifes, which announced the new year, by playing Hail Columbia and Yankee -Doodle. With the break of day, between seven and eight o'clock, we left -Fort Mitchel, and rode twenty-five miles to a plantation called Lewis's, -which is located on the spot, upon which, in the last war, Fort -Bainbridge stood. The road ran through a very hilly country. At first -the soil was sandy and poor, it bore nothing but pine trees. After we -had passed over half the distance, the soil improved, it looked -reddish-yellow, and the apparently everlasting pines gave place to -handsome oaks and lofty hickories. On the other hand the carriage road -became very bad, and in a narrow place we upset. The carriage fell -slowly towards my side, I took the right moment, sprung from the box on -which I sat, and fell upon my feet. This was the eighth time I had been -overturned, and never did I escape so cheap as on this occasion. As none -of the other gentlemen were injured, we could happily laugh at our -accident. The carriage was somewhat damaged, and since we were only four -miles distant from Lewis's, and had very fine weather, a true spring -day, with clear dark-blue sky, we went the rest of the way on foot. - -We passed several wigwams and temporary Indian huts, in which the men -lived with the hogs, and lay around the fire with them. A hut of this -description is open in front, behind it is closed with pieces of wood -and bark. The residents live on roasted venison and Indian corn. The -hides of the deer, and even of cattle, they stretch out to dry in the -sun, and then sell them. At one hut, covered with cane leaves, there was -venison roasting, and bacon smoking. The venison is cut in pieces, and -spitted on a cane stalk, many such stalks lie upon two blocks near each -other. Under these the fire is kindled, and the stalk continually turned -round, till the flesh is dried through. Upon this is laid a hurdle made -of cane which rests on four posts. To this are all the large pieces -suspended. The hams of bacon are laid upon the hurdle so that the smoke -may draw through them. - -The grass in many parts of the woods was in a blaze, and many pine trees -were burning. We crossed two small streams, the Great and Little Uchee, -on tolerable wooden bridges. Between three and four o'clock in the -afternoon we reached Lewis's, a handsome house, the best that we had -found in the Indian territory. We took here an excellent dinner. We ate -daily of the best of venison. In Fort Mitchel we had eaten partridges, -of which the officers in one day took fifty-seven in the morning, and -forty-six in the evening, in their nets. For the singularity of the -thing, I will notice our dinner of to-day, that the inquisitive reader -may observe that one is in no danger of hunger on the lands of the -Indians: soup of turnips, roast-beef, a roast-turkey, venison with a -kind of sour sauce, roast-chickens, and pork with sweet potatoes. - -On the 2d of January we rode thirty-one miles to Walker's, also a -solitary plantation. The country hilly, the road bad to such a degree -that we could only creep along in the most tedious manner, and were -obliged to proceed on foot very often. The wood on the other hand grew -better and better, and consisted, besides the pines, of handsome oaks, -and various sorts of nut-bearing trees, mostly hickories: the soil, for -the most part, of a reddish yellow. In several marshy places, and on the -banks of rivulets, we saw again the evergreen trees and bushes, and in a -swamp nearly a mile long, through which a causeway ran, some magnolia -grandiflora which were at least sixty feet high. I also saw here again -several trees, which first forming one trunk, four or five feet above -the ground, divided themselves into two trunks, and then shot up into -the air one hundred feet. In the north-western part of the state of New -York, I have seen trees which ran up in five, six, and even seven -trunks. Over a stream with marshy banks, a bridge was thrown, three -hundred and eleven paces long: the view which I took from this bridge of -the luxuriant exotic vegetation which surrounded me, exhibited, as I -thought, the original of the sketches of the Brazilian forests in the -travels of the Prince Nieuwied. The beautiful day, the cloudless -dark-blue sky, also introduced by him, were recalled to me by this -picture. But when I observed upon the trees the hateful Spanish moss, -I was reminded that I was in the neighbourhood of Columbia and -Charleston, and that it was a token of unwholesome air. In the swamps I -noticed several plants which were known to me from hot-house -cultivation, but unfortunately I cannot recall their names. - -The country is comparatively populously inhabited by Indians. They live -partly in wigwams, partly in bark cabins. Before one of these huts, or -cabins, hung a skinned otter, upon which they seemed preparing to make a -meal. The Indians roast their maize on the naked coals, then they throw -it into a cavity made in a trunk of a tree, and pound it with a stick of -wood into a sort of coarse meal. I bought a species of nuts, which were -roasted, ground-nuts, and amused myself with the propensity to thievery -a young Indian displayed. As I was putting the nuts in my pocket, one or -more would drop, instantly the young fellow would step forward, as if by -accident, set his foot on the nut, take it between his toes, and move -off. We passed through a tolerably cleared, fenced, and built district, -in which several negro quarters of a decent appearance were scattered -about. This plantation belonged to a chief, one of the principal of the -Creeks, called the Big Warrior, who owns above three hundred negroes, -whose wooden dwelling-house stands in the centre of his property. He is -now at Washington, as one of the deputies of his nation. We came over -another cleared spot, where the Indians were routed in the last war by -the Georgia militia under General Floyd. - -Not far from this place, we noticed a number of Indians collected in the -neighbourhood of a plantation. We left our carriage to inquire into the -cause of it. There had been a horse race of middling unsightly horses: -the festival was, however, ended, and the meeting was on the point of -breaking up. A white planter who was there, conducted us to the son of -the Big Warrior. He was himself a chief, and possessed a high -reputation, as was said amongst those of the nation. He sat upon a -felled tree between two inferior chiefs. His dress was a tunic of -flowered, clear blue calico, a piece of the same stuff was wrapped round -his head like a turban. He wore richly ornamented leather leggings set -with glass beads, and mocassins, and had an equally ornamented hunting -pouch hung around him. Moderately fat, and of a great stature, he -appeared to be about thirty years old. He had mustaches like all his -countrymen. I was introduced to him, and shook hands with him. The -conversation was very trifling and short. It took place through an -interpreter who appeared to be a dismissed soldier. This creature caused -the chief to rise when we commenced speaking to him; when I begged him -to remain sitting, he reseated himself mechanically. He directed no -questions to me, and answered mine with yes and no. To the question, -whether he knew any thing of the country of which I was a native, he -answered by a shake of the head. He looked no more at me. Several -Indians wore their hair in a singular style; it was shorn on both sides -of the head, and the middle, from the neck over to the forehead, stood -up like a cock's comb. Seen from behind, they appeared as if they wore a -helmet. Quite small boys practised themselves already in shooting with a -little bow. I attempted to joke with a little fellow, three years old, -but he took the jest in bad part, and threatened me with his bow. - -After sunset, towards six o'clock in the evening, we reached Walker's, -and found a good reception in a large log-house, each of us had a -separate chamber. The landlord was a captain of infantry in the United -States' service formerly, and had, as our host of yesterday, an Indian -wife. - -On the following day we rode to Montgomery, twenty-five miles distant. -The road was in the beginning bad, afterwards, however, really good. -We crossed a bridge over a stream one hundred paces long, and were then -obliged to toil over a long, wretched causeway. The vegetation was again -exceedingly luxuriant, it was remarkably beautiful on the banks of Line -Creek, a little river, which forms the boundary between the Indian -territory and the state of Alabama, eight miles from Walker's. Very -lofty live oaks, and oaks of other descriptions, several magnolias, and -amongst them, a particularly handsome and lofty macrophylla. - -As we entered upon the territory of Alabama, we soon observed that we -were upon a much better soil. It was darker, much wood was removed, and -signs of cultivation every where. Upon several plantations, the cotton -fields exhibited themselves in beautiful order; the log houses were only -employed as negro cabins; the mansion-houses, two stories high, are for -the most part painted white, and provided with piazzas and balconies. At -most of them the cotton gins and presses were at work. The planters had -not finished the whole of their crop, on account of the unusual drought. -The Alabama river was so low that the steam-boats had not been able for -several weeks to pass from Mobile to Montgomery. This place had -therefore, for a length of time, suffered for the want of the most -necessary supplies, which are drawn from Mobile; fifteen dollars had -been asked for one bushel of salt. We met several caravans of emigrants -from the eastern part of Georgia, who were on their way to Butler -county, Alabama, to settle themselves on land which they had purchased -very cheap from the United States. The number of their negroes, wagons, -horses, and cattle, showed that these emigrants were in easy -circumstances. On account of the bad road, we went at first a good deal -on foot; at one of the creeks, the carriage passed through the ford, and -we footmen crossed over on one of the simplest bridges in the world, -namely, a felled pine tree of great size. We arrived at Montgomery about -two o'clock. In the night it had frozen, but the day had solaced us with -the warmth of spring. - -Montgomery lies on the Alabama river, a navigable stream, which rises -about two hundred and twenty miles above this place, and after it has -joined itself to the Tombigbee, empties into the Mexican gulf, below -Mobile. The town contains about one thousand two hundred inhabitants, -of both complexions. It has two streets, which are very broad, tolerably -good houses, one, not yet finished, of brick, which material is very bad -here. This place was first laid out about five years ago, and has -already a very lively appearance. On the bank of the river, they were -employed in loading two steam-boats with cotton bales, as, within a few -days, the river had risen five feet, and the navigation was once more -carried on with animation. - -The journey by water from Montgomery to Mobile, is four hundred miles, -and as we intended to go this way, we took a look at the two steam-boats -lying here, the Steubenville and Hornet, bound for Mobile. We chose the -Steubenville, which gave out to start on the next day. The construction -of both these boats, and their arrangement, was far inferior to that of -the steam-boats in the north: every thing was coarser, and displayed the -difference between the civilization of the two different sections of the -union. This town is so new, that the original forest still stands -between the houses. In a street there was a well digging; I discovered -by this that the earth was exceedingly well adapted to brick-making, and -that an industrious man, who should establish a kiln here, must make a -handsome profit on the business. The bricks which they sell here at ten -dollars a thousand, are scandalous. Of the inhabitants I heard nothing -commendable: and how can this young town, whose situation, at least in -summer, is unhealthy, have a fixed character; how can it attain a high -degree of cultivation? All come here for the purpose of amassing -property, or are driven here by the prostration of their fortunes, in -their old residence! - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - _Journey from Montgomery, on the Alabama river, to Mobile, and - residence in that city._ - - -The Steubenville, commanded by Captain Grover, is of one hundred and -seventy tons, and has a high pressure machine, of fifty horse-power. -Machines like these are very dangerous, and therefore prohibited in the -Netherlands. The machine of the Steubenville was made in Pittsburg. The -body of the boat is occupied by the cargo, the cabins are upon deck. The -dining-room had twelve births; behind this is a gallery with some -apartments; the last one was hired by us. Before we sailed, two Indians -came on board, who wondered very much at my double barrelled gun, with -percussion locks; they had never seen such fire-arms before; I permitted -them to discharge it, and gave them some of the copper caps, at which -present they testified great delight. - -We went down the river very swiftly, sixteen miles an hour. The banks of -the river near Montgomery are rather high, they consist of red earth, -with many spots of flint, and covered with willow-growth. We came only a -distance of eighteen miles, to a place called Washington, where the -Hornet lay, and where we also were stopped, to remain during the night -for the purpose of taking in wood and cotton. On account of the number -of sand banks, the navigation of the river must be dangerous; the -captain assured me that the experienced pilot then on board, had one -hundred dollars per month pay, so seldom are the officers of the boats -here, accustomed to the localities! - -The next morning we moved on at break of day, with considerable -rapidity; but we soon stopped again, to take in some cotton bales, which -lay ready in a wood on the shore. We had above four hundred bales -already on board. The hold of the boat was full, the space between the -machine and the first cabin was filled, as well as the space about the -cabins, and the roof over them. There was no room left for exercise in -walking, and in the cabin it was very dark. The first delay lasted about -an hour; as soon as we were in motion again, we were obliged to stop for -several hours, as one of the two pipes fell, and drew the other with it. -The steward standing near, was wounded. We pursued our journey about -midday, and laid by again towards sunset to take in wood, and remain for -the night, as the water in the river had fallen, and the sand banks were -numerous in this vicinity. - -We went on shore to look about, and found ourselves near to a plantation -with extensive cotton fields, a cotton gin, and a large cotton press. -There is a vast quantity of cotton seed left, more than is required for -the next year's planting, and the overplus is used for manure. I am well -convinced, that with a small trouble and little expense, a very good oil -could be expressed from this seed. It was thrown out in great heaps, -which contained so much heat, that it was impossible to keep my hand in -it a moment. The breadth of the river is here said to be three hundred -yards, but I cannot believe it to be so much. The right bank may be -about sixty feet high, it rests partly on sandstone, and consists of -many layers of soil; the left bank is lower. Both are grown up with -wood, close to the water's edge with willows, and farther back with -different sorts of trees; lofty oaks, live oaks, and white oaks, which -only flourish in the south, with plane trees, hickories, and other -nut-bearing trees, here and there with beech, ash, and alder, and also -with tall green cane. If it were not so warm and unhealthy during the -summer, a residence here would be delightful. We saw upon the river many -flocks of wild geese and ducks, and upon the shore several buzzards. The -river makes a number of turns, and contains several islands; yet the -most of them are merely sand banks. Upon them lie fallen trees, of which -passing vessels must take great care. On the banks were canoes, which, -in the Indian fashion, were hewed out of a single tree. - -On the 6th of January, the boat was under way before daybreak; she stopt -at Cahawba till ten o'clock, to take in wood. This place has its name -from a small river, which here flows into the Alabama. It lies upon the -right hand bank of the river, here rather high. It was founded about -five years ago, and it is already the capital of the state. With all -this advantage, it contains only three hundred inhabitants of all sorts, -and it is to be feared that its population will not increase, as the -present legislature of Alabama, has resolved to change the seat of -government to Tuscaloosa. - -A fatiguing and bad road goes from the landing to this village. It has -two very broad streets, which cut each other at right angles. Only four -or five houses are of brick, the others all built of wood; they stand at -a distance from one another. In the streets were erected two very plain -triumphal arches, in honour of General La Fayette. I was made acquainted -with Colonel Pickens, friend of Colonel Wool. He had formerly served in -the army, was afterwards governor of South Carolina, and now a planter -in Alabama. He carried us to the state-house, where the legislature was -in session.[II-1] He introduced me to Governor Murphy, in whose office -we passed half an hour, in conversing very pleasantly. The governor gave -me several details concerning the state. The greater part of it had been -bought from the Indians, and settled within ten years. It was first -received by congress as a state of the union in the year 1819. All -establishments within it, are of course very new. The staple productions -are Indian corn and cotton, which are shipped to Mobile, the sea port of -the state, and sold there. The bales of cotton average about forty -dollars. About forty miles hence, at the confluence of the Black Warrior -and the Tombigbee rivers, lies the town of Demopolis, formerly called -Eagleville. It was located by the French, who had come back from the -much promising Champ d'Asyle. This place attracted my curiosity in a -lively degree, and I would willingly have visited it. The governor and -the secretary of state, however, advised me strongly against this, as -there was nothing at all there worthy of observation. They related to me -what follows: - - [Footnote II-1: Accommodation is here so difficult to procure, - that the senators are obliged to sleep three upon one mattress - laid upon the floor: their food consists, it is said, almost - without exception of salted pork.] - -Alabama, as a territory, was under the especial superintendence of -congress. At that period a number of French arrived from the perishing -_Champ d'Asyle_ to the United States. At the head of them were the -Generals Lefebvre-Desnouettes, Lallemand and Rigaud; congress allowed -these Frenchmen a large tract of land upon a very long credit, almost -for nothing, under the promise that they would endeavour to plant the -vine and olive tree. Both attempts miscarried, either through the -neglect of the French, or that the land was too rich for the vine and -the olive. Some of these Frenchmen devoted themselves to the more -profitable cultivation of cotton; the most of them, however, disposed of -the land allotted to them very advantageously, spread themselves through -the United States, and sought a livelihood in a variety of ways. Some -were dancing and fencing masters, some fancy shopkeepers, and others in -Mobile and New Orleans, even croupiers at the hazard tables, that are -there licensed. General Rigaud betook himself at the time of the Spanish -revolution to Spain, there to contend against France, and may now be -living in England; General Lefebvre-Desnouettes, also went back to -Europe, as it was said to obtain the money collected in France for the -colony, and to bring out settlers; he lost his life some years ago in -the shipwreck of the Albion packet, on the Irish coast. General -Lallemand resorted to New York, where he is doing well. The Frenchmen, -with some of whom I afterwards conversed in New Orleans, insisted that -they had received none of the money collected for them. Eagleville, -since called Demopolis, has only one store, and a few log houses. It -lies in a very level country, and at the most only five Frenchmen, whose -names I could not obtain, are living there now, the remaining -inhabitants are Americans. - -After we had looked about the two streets of Cahawba, we embarked and -pursued our voyage. At our going on board, we remarked that Cahawba was -a depot for cotton, which, partly in steam-boats, and partly in vessels -made of light wood, are transported down the river. These vessels have a -flat bottom, and are built in the form of a parallelogram. The part -under the water is pitched, and on the fore and back narrower ends, are -rudder oars, with which the boats are steered. The vessels are finished -in a very rough way; they are broken up in Mobile, and the timber sold. -They are known by the general title of flat boats. - -Some miles below Cahawba we stopped on the right bank, near the -plantation of Mr. Rutherford. There were still fifteen bales of cotton -to be taken in. While this was doing, we went on shore to take a walk, -where the bank was tolerably high. Mr. Rutherford's plantation has been -about six years in cultivation. The mansion-house is of wood, and built -as other log houses, but it is handsomely situated among live oaks and -pride of China trees. The entrance is shaded by a rose-tree. Around were -handsome, high and uncommonly thick sycamores, whose trunks appeared -white, elms, gum trees, and the above named (live oaks and Chinas) many -from a single trunk, also cane, that was at least twenty feet high. The -situation of the plantation was unhealthy, and Mr. R. a Georgian by -birth, told us that he carried his family for the sake of health to the -north every summer. We saw here several hundred paroquets flying round, -who kept up a great screaming. Many were shot. They are parrots, but of -a larger species than the common kind, clear green with yellow tips to -their wings, and orange-coloured heads, flesh-coloured bills, and long -green tails. We had before seen on the bank several astonishingly -numerous flocks of black birds. The banks of the river are here and -there one hundred feet high, they are composed of steep sandstone rock, -from which springs flow. - -By the accession of the new load of cotton bales, our vessel became too -heavily laden. She acquired a balancing motion, like a ship at sea. This -was exceedingly embarrassing in the numerous bends of the river, and to -avoid the danger of falling back, it was necessary to stop the machinery -at every turn. The fine dry weather which pleased us so much, was the -cause of the great fall in the water of the river. The change from high -to low water was very rapid. In the spring, as I was assured, the river -rose sixty feet and more, and inundated the high land near it. I could -not doubt the fact; for I saw upon the rocky banks the traces of the -high water. About dark we laid by on the right shore to take in wood. -We remained here for the night, and I had in a wretched lair an equally -wretched repose.[II-2] - - [Footnote II-2: In this part of the country, they have either - feather beds or moss mattresses; if these latter are old, the moss - clots together, and it is like lying on cannon-balls.] - -On the 7th of January, at six in the morning, our vessel was once more -in motion; soon, however, she stuck fast upon the sand. It required much -trouble to bring her off, and turn her round; the task occupied an hour -and a half. It was shortly before daybreak, and we were all in bed, if -such miserable cribs deserved the name. It had various effects upon our -travelling companions. Mr. Huygens rose in consternation from his bed, -and made a great disturbance. Mr. Bowdoin called to his servant, and -directed him to inquire what had happened. He was very uneasy when we -told him that we might lie several days, perhaps weeks here, to wait for -rain, and the consequent rise of the river. The colonel and I, who had -acquired by our long experience, a tolerable portion of recklessness, -remained in our cots, and left the matter to Providence, as we perceived -that the captain would rather disembark his cotton, which consumed -nothing, than to support much longer a number of passengers, all with -good appetites, who had agreed for their voyage at a certain price. When -we were again afloat, Mr. Bowdoin remarked with a face of great wisdom, -that he had foreseen that we should not long remain aground, as he had -not felt the stroke of the boat on the sand-bar. - -We passed the whole day without any further accident, the weather was -rather dull and drizzling. Nothing interesting occurred to our -observation. We passed by two steam-boats that had been sunk in the -river, of which the last, called the Cotton Plant, went down only a -month since. Both struck against trees in the river, and sank so slowly, -that all the passengers, and part of the cargo were saved. They were so -deep that only the wheel-houses raised themselves above the water. From -these boats already a part of the machinery has been taken out -piece-meal. - -In the afternoon we passed a little place called Claiborne, situated on -an eminence on the left bank of the river. Three miles below, we stopped -about sunset, on the right bank for wood. The name of the place is -Wiggins's Landing. It consists of two log-houses standing upon a height, -among old tall thin oak trees, which was settled by a Mr. Wiggins, with -his wife and children, a short time before. The houses had a very -picturesque appearance, and I was sorry that I could not take a sketch -of them. Mr. W. proposed to cut down the wood for the purpose of raising -cotton there. It was a pity to do so with this handsome grove, handsome, -although injured in its appearance by the Spanish moss which hangs from -the trees. Monsieur Chateaubriand compares the trees enveloped in this -moss to apparitions; in the opinion of Brackenridge, they resemble ships -under full sail, with which the air plays in a calm at sea. I, who never -beheld ghosts, nor possessed Mons. Chateaubriand's powers of -imagination, though I had seen sails tossing in the wind, compared these -trees in my prosaic mood, to tenter-hooks, on which beggars dry their -ragged apparel before some great holy-day. - -We were in hopes, that we should have made more progress during the -night, but the captain had become so prudent, and almost anxious, from -the sight of the two sunken steam-boats, that he determined to spend the -night at Wiggins's Landing. Formerly, near Claiborne, there was a -stockade, called Fort Claiborne, where an affair took place with the -Indians in the last war. This place is named in honour of the deceased -Mr. Claiborne, governor of the former Mississippi Territory, of which -the present state of Alabama formed a part, who died about eight years -ago, governor of the state of Louisiana, in New Orleans. He had taken -possession of Louisiana, in the name of the United States, which the -then existing French Government had sold to them. Mr. Claiborne was a -particular favourite and countryman of President Jefferson. He had by -his voice decided the presidential election in favour of Jefferson, -against his antagonist, Aaron Burr, for which Jefferson was gratefully -mindful during his whole life. - -On the 8th of January, we left our anchoring ground between six and -seven o'clock. The shores, which at first were pretty high, became by -degrees lower, they remained, however, woody, mostly of oak wood in -appearance, hung with long moss. Under the trees, grew very thick, and -uncommonly handsome cane, above twenty feet high. At the rise of the -river, these shores, often covered with water, are on this account -little inhabited. Taking it for granted that the population of Alabama -increases in numbers, and the higher land becomes healthier from -extirpation of the forest, without doubt dykes will be made on these -lower banks, to guard the land from inundation, and make it susceptible -of culture. Here and there rose sand banks out of the water, and also -several snags. We passed the place where the year before, a steam-boat, -the Henry Clay, was sunk; since which time, however, she has been set -afloat again. It is not very consolatory to the traveller, to behold -places and remains of such occurrences, particularly when they find -themselves on board such a miserable vessel as ours. Several -steam-boats, which at present navigate the Alabama, formerly ran on the -Mississippi, as this one did; they were judged too bad for that river, -and were, therefore, brought into this trade, by which their possessors -realized much money. We saw to-day many wild ducks and geese, on the -shores also, numbers of paroquets, which make a great noise; in the -river there were alligators, which are smaller than the Egyptian -crocodile. One of these creatures was lying on the shore of the bank, -and was sunning itself, yet too far from us, and our boat went too fast, -to permit of my seeing it distinctly, or of shooting at it. In the -afternoon we saw several small rivers, which flowed into the Alabama, or -ran out of it, forming stagnant arms, which are here called bayous. The -river itself takes extraordinary turns, and shapes out a variety of -islands. We afterwards reached the confluence of the rivers Alabama and -Tombigbee, where there is an island, and the country appears extremely -well. Both rivers united, take the name of Mobile river. - -About three miles below this junction, several wooden houses formed a -group on the right bank. Formerly, there was a stockade here, Fort -Stoddart, from which this collection of houses has its name. Here is the -line which forms the thirty-first degree of latitude, once the boundary -between the United States and the Spanish possessions. The Mobile river -still increased in breadth, and as the night commenced, seemed about -half a mile wide. The weather was very dark and cloudy, the pilot could -not distinguish his course, and although we approached close to the -city, we could proceed no farther, without exposing ourselves to danger. - -Early on the 9th of January it was extremely foggy. On this account a -boat was sent out to reconnoitre. The fog after some time cleared away a -little, and we found ourselves so near the wharves that we immediately -touched one of the piers, and landed about half past eight. We had -travelled four hundred and fifty miles from Montgomery. The journey by -land amounts only to two hundred and fifty-eight miles, and yet is -seldom performed, on account of the want of good roads and -accommodation. Being arrived at Mobile and extremely glad at having left -our wretched steam-boat, in which we had enjoyed no comfort, we took up -our residence in Smooth's Hotel, a wooden building, the bar-room of -which is at the same time the post-office, and therefore somewhat -lively. - -Mobile, an ancient Spanish town, yet still earlier occupied by the -French, was ceded with Louisiana, in 1803, to the United States. The few -respectable creole families, who had formerly dwelt here, left the place -at the cession, and withdrew to the island of Cuba, and none but those -of the lower classes remained behind. A new population was formed of the -North Americans, who came here to make money. From this cause, the -French as well as the Spanish language remains only among the lower -classes; the better society is thoroughly American. Mobile contains five -thousand inhabitants, of both complexions, of which about one thousand -may be blacks. The town lies on the right bank of the Florida river, -where it is divided into several arms, and has formed Mobile bay, which, -thirty miles below, joins the Mexican gulf. It is regularly built, the -streets are at right angles, part of them parallel with the river, the -rest perpendicular to it. Along the shore is a wooden quay, and wooden -piers or landing bridges project into the water, for the convenience of -vessels. There are lying here about thirty ships, of which several are -of four hundred tons, to be loaded with cotton. The most of them are -from New York. When the ebb tide draws off the water, a quantity of -filth remains uncovered on the shore, and poisons the atmosphere. This -circumstance may contribute its agency to the unhealthiness of the place -in summer. The shore opposite the harbour is marshy and full of cane. -The town lies upon a poor sandy soil; the streets are not paved, and -unpleasant from the depth of the sand. On both sides of the streets -there are paths made of strong plank, which divide the walk from the -cartway of the street, which will be converted into pavements when brick -or stone shall have become cheaper. - -The generality of the houses are of wood, covered with shingles, and -have piazzas. Some new houses only, are built of brick. This article -must be imported, and is not to be procured in large quantities of any -quality. As an example of this, I saw a house finished, of which the two -first stories were of red brick, and the third of yellow. There are also -here some Spanish houses which consist of timber frames, of which the -open spaces are filled up with beaten clay, like those of the German -peasantry. Besides several private houses, most of the public buildings -are of brick. These are, a theatre, which, besides the pit, has a row of -boxes and a gallery, the bank, the court of the United States, the -county court-house, the building of which was in progress, and the -prison. Near this prison stood the public whipping post for negroes. It -was constructed like a sash frame. The lower board on which the feet of -the unfortunate being were to stand, could be pushed up or down, to -accommodate the height of the individual. Upon it is a block, through -which the legs are passed. The neck and arms are passed through another. - -The Catholic church here is in a very miserable situation. I went into -it, just at the time the church seats were publicly rented for the year -to the highest bidders; two in my presence were disposed of for nineteen -dollars a piece. The church within resembles a barn, it had a high altar -with vessels of tin, and a picture of no value, also two little side -altars. - -A large cotton warehouse, of all the buildings in Mobile, most excited -my attention. This consists of a square yard, surrounded on three sides -by massive arcades, where the cotton bales coming from the country are -brought in, and preparatory to their shipment are again pressed, that -they may occupy as little room as possible in the vessel. The bales were -arranged on a layer of thick plank, between which there is room allowed -to pass the ropes through. Above the bales, which are placed between -four strong iron vices, is a cover, in which there is room left for the -ropes as below. These covers have four apertures, with female screws, -through which the vices pass. On every screw there is a face wheel. All -these four face wheels are driven by a crown wheel, which is put in -motion by a horse. The covers are thus screwed down on the bales, and -their bulk reduced one-third. During the pressure, the negro labourers -have drawn the ropes through the groves between the planks and fastened -the bales with little difficulty. This warehouse or magazine has two -such presses. It occupies three sides of the yard, the fourth contains a -handsome dwelling house. The whole is built of brick, and has an iron -verandah. It belongs to speculators in New Orleans, and is known by the -name of the "fire proof magazine," although the interior is of wood. - -The weather was very fine, and as warm as we have it in summer: I felt -it very much in walking, and most of the doors and windows in the houses -stood open. On this account I seated myself in the piazza before the -house. A number of Choctaw Indians, who led a wandering life in the -woods around the town, went about the streets selling wood, which they -carried in small billets, bound on their backs. They are of a darker -colour, and, if possible, still dirtier than the Creeks, they wrap -themselves also in blankets, and most of them wore round hats trimmed -with tin rings and pieces of tin. I walked through the streets of the -place, which contains several large stores, to all appearance well -stocked. In these excursions I found an old Brunswicker, named Thomas, -who kept a grog-shop here, and who showed me a young alligator, an ugly -animal, at most three months old. It was about eight inches long, and -was preserved in a tub of water, in which it was daily supplied with -fresh grass. When it was taken out of the water and placed on the sand, -it ran about with much alacrity. Its head was disproportionately large, -and it had already double rows of sharp teeth. - -In the afternoon we saw a volunteer company, of about twenty and upwards -strong, pretty well equipped, turn out to celebrate the anniversary of -the battle of New Orleans, the eighth of January, 1815. On the preceding -day, being Sunday, this festival was not commemorated. They had erected -a platform on an open spot of ground, and brought there three old iron -pieces, with which a national salute of twenty-four guns was fired. -Colonel Wool had many acquaintances and countrymen here, from the north, -to whom he introduced me. Conversation, therefore, did not fail us, -though many comforts of life are withheld for a period. Thus, for -example, I was deprived of milk so long as I was in the Indian -territory, as the cattle were driven into the woods during the winter, -to support themselves. - -I made an attempt to pass round the town, but was prevented on one side -by woods, and on the other, by ditches and marshes, so that I found -myself limited in my promenade to the streets. These, however, -I measured to my heart's content. There was nothing new to me but some -fruit shops, in which were excellent oranges from Cuba, at six cents a -piece, large pine apples, much larger than the finest I had seen in -England, also from Cuba, at forty-two and three-quarter cents a piece, -thus much dearer than in Charleston, where they cost but twelve and a -half cents a piece, besides bananas and cocoa nuts in abundance. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - _Travels to Pensacola._ - - -Colonel Wool was obliged to go to Pensacola, in pursuance of his duty of -inspection. I determined to accompany him with Mr. Huygens, as Pensacola -was interesting to me as a military man. Mr. Bowdoin felt himself -unwell, and was tired of travelling. He remained, therefore, in Mobile, -with the intention of going to New Orleans by the first opportunity. - -On the 10th of January, we left Mobile in the steam-boat Emeline. This -vessel goes daily from Blakely, which lies on the left shore of the bay, -to Mobile, and back again. The distance amounts, in a straight line, to -about twelve miles; some marshy islands covered with cane and shallows, -lengthen the passage to fourteen miles. The Emeline, Captain Fowler, is -the smallest steam-boat that I ever saw. She is only of thirty-two tons -burthen, is built of planks, which are laid over each other without -ribs, like a skiff, and the engine, a low pressure, has only eight -horse-power. The boat belongs to the captain, and, with its engine, was -constructed in New York. When it left that city to sail for Mobile, no -insurance company would undertake to underwrite it, and Mr. Fowler was -compelled to come on his individual risk. His capital embarked in it, -will, nevertheless, produce a very good profit. Yet the smallest -steam-boats which navigate the Florida and Alabama rivers, are insured. -Some are too old and rotten for any company to insure, especially as the -navigation on these rivers is so dangerous, that the few good vessels -must give one per cent. monthly, as a premium. - -From the water side, Mobile, with its ships in harbour, has a pretty -appearance. We had also a handsome view of Mobile Bay, in which we -counted nine ships of various sizes stretching in. A number of wild -ducks flew about among the islands. In two hours we crossed the bay, and -landed at five o'clock in the evening at Blakely. - -This place has a very good situation, on rather an elevated bank, in a -grove nearly composed of live oaks, of which some are full twenty feet -in circumference. A bushy kind of palm tree grows here which is called -Spanish bayonet, which appears to partake of the nature of the macaw -trees. Blakely was founded in the year 1816, by a Mr. Blakely, dead -about five years since, and then sold to various speculators. This place -was established to injure Mobile, and to draw the commerce of that place -away from it. The design has, however, failed of success. Mobile is -superior in capital, and Blakely has injured itself alone. Upon the -shore stand two large wooden buildings in ruins, the smallest part of -them only is rented, and used as stores. On the eminence behind these -buildings are placed about twenty wooden houses, of which the largest is -the only tavern, and it is really a respectable one. We took our lodging -there. The houses are very neatly built, with projecting roofs and -piazzas, and surrounded with gardens. Some, however, are deserted, and -exhibit the decay of the place. A large wooden edifice two stories high, -provided with a cupola, was originally intended for an academy; from the -want of scholars, this academy has never been in operation, the building -therefore is used as a place of worship, and as a court-house. The -number of inhabitants cannot exceed two hundred. - -During our ramble it had become dark; the moon was in her first quarter. -The air was as warm as in a fine May evening in Germany. All was -pleasant and cheerful, and only our recollection that this handsome -country was poisonous in summer, produced a discord with the scene. In -the evening I sat and wrote in one of the rooms of the tavern with open -doors and windows, and heard the sparrow chirp as if it were summer. -I had noticed very few sweet orange trees in this part of the country, -and the few which I saw were small and young. As I manifested my -surprise, the reason was given, that the numerous orange trees which -formerly were here, had been all killed in the winter of 1821-22, by a -four day's frost. - -Before we commenced our journey the next morning, I found in the earth -several pieces of petrified live oak. The mineral riches of this -district are not yet explored. I imagine, that a mineralogist, who -should here prosecute his researches, might reap a rich harvest. - -We hired a two-horse barouche, which was to carry us to Pensacola, -sixty-five miles distant from Blakely. In this, we departed about ten -o'clock in the morning, well stocked with plenty of provision, which, -in this country, so destitute of inns, was considered as a necessary -supply. Close to Blakely we ascended a hill, which afforded us a very -beautiful view of the town, the bay of Mobile, and of a valley watered -by a stream, with the richest prospect of vegetation I ever beheld. The -grove before us was full of magnolias of all sizes, of laurels, and an -evergreen bush that was called the water oak; and among them all, the -most splendid live oaks. Unfortunately this lovely country did not reach -very far. Scarcely a short mile from Blakely, the good soil ceased, and -the wearisome sand and long-leaved pines began once more. We advanced -but thirty miles during the day; a delicious warm state of the weather, -however, cheered us. At first we found several plantations which the -inhabitants of Blakely, in somewhat easy circumstances, resorted to -during the summer, when the yellow fever occupied that place. On some of -these plantations, the dry rice, (so called from the fields which -produce it lying so high that they cannot be overflowed,) is cultivated. -This rice is little inferior to the swamp rice of South Carolina, and -will yield fifty bushels to the acre. I regaled myself with the melody -of several birds, of which most were robins, birds of passage, which -live through the winter in these southern countries, and in the spring, -approach the north, there to announce it. I saw also several cranes. To -complete the illusion, that it was summer, a number of frogs lent their -aid, and croaked loudly from the marshes. - -We halted at noon, in a shady place, near a clear brook, and dispatched -a part of our provisions, seated on a dry green turf. For the first time -in my life, a shade in January was a desirable object. The night -overtook us before we reached our lodgings for the night, which we -intended to take up at a place called Belle Fontaine. The road was -hardly discernible, for it was so little travelled, that grass grew in -the tracks, and the stumps of trees were as difficult to avoid, as they -were frequent. We risked oversetting more than once. To avoid such an -accident, we determined to proceed on foot. We took in this way, a walk -of at least six miles, in an unbroken pine forest, inhabited by bears, -wolves, and even panthers. At first we had the light of the moon; about -nine o'clock it went down, and we had considerable difficulty to keep -the road. As the dwellings were scattering from each other, we imitated -the barking of dogs, to give them an opportunity to answer in the same -language. This succeeded; we heard dogs bark, moved in the direction -whence the sound came, and reached about ten o'clock, the desired Belle -Fontaine, a log house with two rooms, or cabins, and a cleared opening -before it. A man of rather unpromising appearance, the landlord, Mr. -Pollard, admitted us, and took charge of our horses. His wife, a pale, -sickly looking being, who hardly returned an answer to our questions, -was obliged to rise from her bed, to prepare us a supper and -sleeping-room. The whole establishment had at first, the look of a -harbour for robbers, but there was well roasted venison prepared for us, -on a neat table, and tolerable coffee, for which we had, luckily, -brought sugar along with us. It was really comfortable, though our -chamber remained open the whole night, as there was no door, and only -two beds were furnished. - -The 12th of January we left our quarters at seven in the morning, and -travelled thirty-two miles to Pensacola. Twelve miles from Belle -Fontaine brought us to a stand at the Perdido, where we breakfasted at a -plantation, situated on the right bank of the river. This stream forms -the boundary between Alabama and the territory of Florida, which does -not yet contain inhabitants sufficient to entitle it to a reception -among the states of the Union. The river is small, its banks sandy, and -we crossed it in a poor ferry-boat. On the banks, as generally through -the whole of that district, I saw many bushy palms, here called -palmattoes. The soil on the whole, was as bad as that we saw yesterday, -the growth was pine; there is fresh vegetation only about the springs. -The air grew still warmer, we saw a few butterflies. As we approached -Pensacola, the pines ceased, and we moved through dwarf oaks. The soil -was a deep sand; we passed by a marsh full of water oaks. - -Pensacola, which we reached about five o'clock, lies upon a bay of the -ocean. It is an ancient Spanish town, and was surrendered by Spain with -all Florida, to the United States in 1821. It contains about one -thousand inhabitants. We lodged ourselves in Collins's Hotel, and went, -immediately on our arrival, to walk about the town. It is the most -miserable place that I have beheld since I crossed the Atlantic. Such -Spaniards as possessed any property have left this place, when it was -ceded to the United States, and have moved off either to New Orleans, or -the island of Cuba. Only the poorest of them have remained. Since that -time, the Americans settled here, have, as at Mobile, created a new -population. The deepest sand covers the unpaved streets, which are -broad, and regularly laid out. Only a few new houses are of brick, they -are mostly of wood, and stand at a considerable distance from each -other. There is not a single ship in the port. A new market-house of -brick is building upon the shore, and not far from it stands the wooden -catholic church, the outside of which appears in a forlorn condition. -Near the church are the ruins of an old English barrack, which was burnt -about four years ago; its two wings were covered by two block houses of -logs, which are standing, one of which serves for a custom-house. About -the town several block houses have stood, which formerly afforded a good -protection against the Seminole Indians, the original inhabitants of -this section of country. - -In the evening of this day, and on the next morning we received visits -from several officers, from Colonel Clinch, commandant of the 4th -regiment of infantry, who was posted here with Major Wright and others. -Captain Campbell of the Marine Corps, who had the command of the new -navy-yard, that was to be established here: some supplies had arrived, -and were put in store at Fort Barrancas. As we wished to see this fort, -the gentlemen were so polite as to accommodate us with their boats. - -I went with Colonel Wool in Captain Campbell's boat. We had a favourable -wind, and spreading two sails we reached fort Barrancas, nine miles by -sea from Pensacola, in an hour. On the way we saw a flock of sixteen -pelicans. On account of the point of land stretching into the bay, we -had to make a circuit; it was called Tartar point, and the new navy-yard -is to be upon it. It is thought that it will be commenced in two months. -The country about Pensacola and the shores of the bay are the most -disagreeable that can be conceived of; nothing but sand heaps -dazzling-white like snow. In the bay lies a level island, St. Rosa, with -a growth of dwarf oaks. On it had been erected a fort, which was blown -up by the English, when they occupied Pensacola in the year 1814, to -support the Creek Indians then at war with the United States, and were -compelled to evacuate it by General Jackson. The English blew up also a -part of Fort Barrancas at the same time, but the Spaniards have -reinstated it, although on a smaller scale; thus it remains at present. - -The cannon are of brass, English and Spanish. Among the latter I -observed two very fine twenty-four pounders, cast in Seville. Nothing -can be more unhandy than the Spanish gun-carriages, they have wheels, -which at the outside measure four feet in diameter. - -In the gorge of the works, there is a large bomb-proof casemate, and in -the yard a furnace for red-hot shot. The whole of the work is built of -sand, therefore the wall outside, and the parapet inside, are covered -with upright planks, and the cheeks of the embrazures in the same -manner. The Spanish cannon, also mounted on the clumsiest carriages, are -placed in battery. The fort was temporarily given up to the marines, who -employed the casemates and block houses for magazines, till the -requisite preparations could be made in the navy-yard. At that period, -the fort will be dismantled, and in its place a respectable fortress -will be erected to defend this important point. - -It is of the highest consequence to the United States, to have an -extensive maritime and military position on the Mexican gulf, on account -of the increasing power of the new South American Republics. -Nevertheless, Pensacola can only be of secondary ability to fill such a -station, since the sand bank lying in the mouth of the bay, has only -twenty-two feet upon it at high water; and necessarily, is too shallow -for ships of the line, or even American frigates of the first class. -Besides, upon the whole coast of the Gulf of Mexico, there is but one -single bay, (and this is situated southward of La Vera Cruz,) in which -armed ships of the line can pass in and out. The pieces of ordnance -placed upon the walls, as well as some forty lying upon the beach, half -covered with sand, of old Spanish and English cannon, are, as is said, -perfectly unserviceable. - -Outside of the fort, about two hundred paces distant from it, along the -sea-coast, stands a light house built of brick, about eighty feet high, -in which twenty lamps in divisions of five, constantly turn upon an axis -in a horizontal movement during the night. They are set in motion by -clock-work, and were prepared in Roxbury, near Boston. I saw the model -in the patent office at Washington. The lamps are all furnished with -plated reflectors, and are fed with spermaceti oil. The land about the -fort is for the most part sandy, and produces only pines naturally, -these however have been rooted out, and dwarf oaks and palmettoes have -since sprouted out. - -I have mentioned General Jackson above, and surmised that he had driven -the English out of Pensacola. I add to this remark the following: the -Seminoles, as it is asserted, manifestly stirred up by the English, -without the least provocation, commenced a war against the United -States, in the year 1818. General Jackson defeated them, and directed -the two Englishmen, Arbuthnot and Ambrister, who had sold weapons and -ammunition to the Indians, as well as stimulated them to war against the -United States, to be hanged. After this, he attacked Pensacola and the -Barrancas, where the Indians were sheltered and protected by the Spanish -authorities. The town of Pensacola was poorly fortified and soon -mastered. General Jackson then opened a cannonade of two pieces of -artillery on Fort Barrancas. The Spanish governor hid himself under the -steps of the coast battery, and surrendered the fort, since by the -agreeing statement of two captains, the garrison refused to fight, -(consisting of three companies of the Spanish regiment of Louisiana,) -because they had not received their pay for some time. "Audacibus -fortuna juvat!" - -On the 14th of January I took a walk in front of the town to view the -former fortifications of this place. These works owe their foundation to -the English. England, indeed avowedly possessed this country, West -Florida, from 1763 to 1783; at the treaty of Versailles, it was fully -given up to Spain, after it had been conquered by Don Galvez, then -governor of Louisiana, who afterwards was Viceroy of Mexico. The best -defence of Pensacola consists in the marshes which surround it. Beyond -the marshes lie undistinguishable sand hillocks, which were occupied by -forts. A thousand paces in front of the town, to the left of the road -leading to Mobile, lies a fort. - -The form of this fort, I made out from the remains grown over with -bushes. Behind it was open, and there are still the ruins of a -bomb-proof powder magazine, built of brick, which the English blew up in -1814. It appeared partly covered with timber. A thousand paces farther -to the left, are the ruins of another somewhat larger fort, upon another -small eminence so disposed as to command the interior of the first. It -appears to have been calculated for from four to five hundred men, while -the first could only shelter two hundred. The ramparts of both are -composed merely of sand, and the high bushes of various species, which -flourish to a remarkable degree on the ruins, exhibit the productive -force of the climate. The soil around the forts, also consisting of sand -only, yields palmettoes and dwarf oaks. I had remarked the same soil -upon the land side of Fort Barrancas, and besides cactus, some of which -grew in a screw-like form through the bricks, many of them in the driest -sand. In 1782, a handful of Waldeckers, then in English pay, defended -these works against fifteen thousand Spaniards, and in the absence of an -English engineer, the captain there, and the present Lieutenant-General -Heldring, of the Netherlands, discharged that duty. - -Colonel Walton, secretary of state of Florida, who had just returned in -a vessel from Talahasse, told me so much of the beautiful situation, and -delicious country about that town, only laid out within a year, as well -as of the interior of Florida, with its rising and falling springs and -lakes, the discharge of which no one was acquainted with, that I was -sorry I could not visit that place, to which the fourth regiment had -marked out a road. Thirty miles from Talahasse, Prince Achille Murat, in -company with the former colonel, now Mr. Gadsden, purchased much land, -on which he will cultivate maize, cotton and sugar. M. Murat must be a -young man of great spirit. It is, however, charged against him, that he -has addicted himself to a low familiar behaviour, in which he appears to -wish to excel; that he chews tobacco constantly, &c. - -I paid a visit to the catholic clergyman of this place, Abbe Mainhout, -a native of Waerschot, in East Flanders. The Abbe came in 1817, with the -bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, as a missionary to the United States. -This excellent man does very little credit to the climate, he is now -just recovering from a severe fit of sickness. He is universally -esteemed and loved on account of his exemplary conduct and learning: and -as he is the only clergyman in the place, the inhabitants of whatever -persuasion they may be, resort to his church. He was pleased with my -visit, particularly, as I brought him news from his native land. - -Colonel Clinch sent us his carriage, to carry us to the quarters, where -Colonel Wool was to hold his inspection. Since the English barracks have -been burnt, the troops have been stationed out of town in preference, -from apprehension of the yellow fever. There is a large wooden barracks -built in a healthy situation, on an eminence two miles from town on the -road to the Barrancas, for the troops. These barracks in the phrase of -this service are called cantonments, this one, after the colonel, is -named cantonment Clinch. It consists of ten log-houses built in a row, -under one roof. Each house is for a company, and contains two rooms. -Before this long range of barracks, is a large parade, with a flag -staff. Opposite to this are the officers quarters. The officers of each -company have a house, which stands opposite to the barrack of their own -soldiers. Behind the long building for the men, is the range of -kitchens; behind this is the guard house and prisoners room, and still -farther back in the woods, the etcetera. On the right wing is the -colonel's house, placed in a garden surrounded by a palisade. The house -is built of wood, two stories high, and furnished with a piazza below, -and a gallery above. Upon the left wing, stands a similar building -appointed for the residence of the lieutenant colonel and major; at -present, however, arranged as an hospital, as the first officer commands -in Tampa Bay, and the major in Fort Mitchel. The cantonment has its -front towards the bay; at the foot of the eminence on which it stands, -is a bayou, and the appearance is really handsome. The colonel has only -two officers and about twenty men, with the regimental surgeon, so that -the inspection was soon completed. - -After dinner we returned to the town, and passed the evening in a very -pleasant party at Mr. Walton's, which was given from politeness to me. -I found here several Creole ladies of the place, who spoke bad French, -but looked very well, and were dressed with taste. Conversation was our -only amusement, but this was animated and well supported. - -On the 15th of January we left Pensacola, at eight o'clock in the -morning, to return to Mobile by the same way we came. We encountered a -skunk, something larger than a cat, with a thick, hairy, and erect tail. -This creature cannot run with agility, and we could easily have caught -it. We, however, suffered it to go quietly to its hole, as it scatters -its effluvium when disturbed, and if the least piece of clothing be -touched by it, it must be thrown away entirely, as there is no method of -freeing it from the detestable smell. If a dog is sprinkled by it he -become almost sick, whines, and throws himself about for some time on -the earth. We passed also two wolf-traps, resembling our rat-traps, but -of course constructed on a larger scale. - -We made a short stay at the house on Perdido river. We met with a -planter from the banks of the Alabama, who had come here to take back -one of his negroes, whom he had hired before to the mistress of this -house and ferry. He had treated the poor creature with such barbarity, -that the negro not far from the house had threatened him with the knife, -and had ran back. The man had put us across the river, but as soon as he -saw his master, he ran away quickly, and was no more to be seen. The -gentleman asked us to assist him in arresting and detaining his negro, -but we unanimously rejected his proposal with disgust. Some days before, -the negro had pleased me much by his lively and agreeable disposition, -while his master and tormentor appeared to me, in every respect, highly -the reverse. - -About five o'clock in the afternoon we reached the same log-house in -which we had passed the night, near Belle Fontaine. As it was still -daylight, I went immediately in search of the spring to which this place -owes its name; I found, however, only a marsh with several springs, -about which, except the vegetation, there was nothing attractive. The -landlord was not at home, and the whole domestic management rested on -the poor pale wife, who had five children to take care of, and expected -a sixth soon. She had for an assistant a single little negro wench, who -was soon sent away, so the poor woman had every thing to provide; yet -she set before us an excellent supper. - -Towards morning, I was roused out of my uneasy slumbers by a powerful -uproar. It was caused by cranes that flew over the house. At eight -o'clock in the morning we left Belle Fontaine and travelled back to -Blakely, where we arrived before five o'clock in the evening, and took -possession of our former quarters. Through the whole passage back, not -the least thing occurred worthy of remark. A good road could be made at -little expense between Blakely and Pensacola, at least the numerous -large trees, which after violent storms have fallen transversely over -the road and shut it up, might be cleared away. One is obliged often to -make a considerable circuit on account of these trees. - -On the following morning at ten o'clock, we embarked once more on board -the steam-boat Emeline, and in very fine, though cold weather, reached -Mobile at twelve o'clock. We found Mr. Bowdoin confined to his bed, with -the gout in both legs. We immediately betook ourselves to the harbour. -During our absence, the packet schooner Emblem, Captain Vincent, from -New Orleans, had arrived here, and designed returning to that city. The -captain had heard of us, and remained some time to take us along. His -vessel stood in very high repute, as well for her sailing, as on account -of accommodation and cleanliness. We agreed for the passage at fifteen -dollars for each person. The vessel would have sailed exactly on this -day, but as the captain had understood that we were desirous of seeing -the new fort on Mobile point, which was built thirty miles from Mobile, -he was so polite as to postpone his voyage till the next morning, to -allow us to see the fort by daylight. - -Of course, we had some time on our hands. We took a walk in the woods -situated behind the town, which is composed of pines, and some evergreen -bushes. It is also the great burial-ground, which is thickly filled up -by the agency of the yellow fever, and the sickly climate. Several -Choctaw Indians bivouacked here, like gypsies; the men lay drunk upon -the earth, and their miserable women were obliged to carry the bundles -of wood to town for sale. - -To my great astonishment, I learned that there were gambling-houses even -here, kept by Frenchmen, and that each in the city paid a yearly tax of -one thousand dollars for a license. I was told that respectable -merchants were in the habit of going there to have an eye over their -clerks, and also to observe what mechanics, or other small tradesmen, -played here, to stop giving credit to such as haunted the resorts of -these gentry. I was taken to two of these gambling-houses, which are -united with coffee-houses, to see how they were conducted. In one of -them were two roulette tables, in two separate rooms, in the other, -which was smaller, one roulette and one pharo table. There was betted -here silver and paper, but not more than twenty dollars bank notes, and -most of them did not bet more than a dollar a time. A couple of young -fellows lost all that they had, and behaved very indecently when they -were stripped of their money. Several of the better sort appeared to be -country people, who had brought their corn and cotton to market, and -only played off their profits. At one of the tables sat some common -sailors, half drunk. We found rather low company collected in both -houses, and our curiosity was soon satisfied. It is to be hoped, that -the legislature of Alabama will prohibit such houses. They are, on the -whole, very good places for recruiting the army and navy! - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - _Journey to New Orleans, and Residence in that City._ - - -On the 18th of January, we embarked in the schooner Emblem, whose cabin -was proportioned to her tonnage, (which was but fifty tons,) but -comfortably high, and well ornamented. The sides were of mahogany and -maple; on each side were two state-rooms, with two births each; the back -part of the cabin, being something higher than the forward part, -contained a birth on each side. Of these, the starboard was occupied by -Mr. Bowdoin, the other by myself. - -The shores of Mobile Bay, which is very wide, are low and overgrown with -wood, before us lay a long island, called Isle Dauphine, by the -unfortunate Delasalle, who discovered it. Mobile point lies to the left, -where, after sunset, we beheld the light in the light-house. There stood -on this point in the late war a small fort, called Fort Bowyer, which -the present Lieutenant-Colonel, then Major Lawrence, gallantly defended, -with a garrison of one hundred and thirty men, against eight hundred -disembarked English sailors and Seminole Indians, under Major Nichols. -The assailants were defeated, after their ordnance was dismounted, with -considerable loss, and the English corvette Hermes, which covered the -attack, was blown up by the well-directed fire of the fort. In February, -1815, this brave officer found himself obliged to yield to superior -force, and to capitulate to Admiral Cockburn, who was on his return from -the unsuccessful expedition to New Orleans. This was the last act of -hostility that occurred during that war. Fort Bowyer is since -demolished, and in its stead a more extensive fortress is erecting, -which we would willingly have inspected, had the wind been more -favourable, and brought us there earlier. We steered between Mobile -Point and Dauphin Island, so as to reach the Mexican gulf, and turning -then to the right, southward of the Sandy Islands, which laid along the -coast, sailed towards Lake Borgne. Scarcely were we at sea, when a -strong wind rose from the west, which blew directly against us. We -struggled nearly the whole night to beat to windward, but in vain. The -wind changed to a gale, with rain, thunder, and lightning. The -main-topmast was carried away, and fell on deck. The mate was injured by -the helm striking him in the side, and was for a time unfit for duty. On -account of the great bustle on deck, the passengers could hardly close -an eye all night. The motion of the vessel was violent, on account of -her small size. A falling block broke out several of the panes in the -sky-light of the cabin, so that the rain was admitted, and the furniture -was tossed about by the rolling. - -On the morning of the 19th of January, we were driven back to the strait -between Dauphin Island and Mobile Point, and the anchor was dropt to -prevent farther drifting. I was sea-sick, but had the consolation that -several passengers shared my misfortune. The whole day continued -disagreeable, cold, and cloudy. As we lay not far from Dauphin Island, -several of our company went on shore, and brought back a few thrushes -which they had shot. I was too unwell to feel any desire of visiting -this inhospitable island, a mere strip of sand, bearing nothing but -everlasting pines. Upon it, stands some remains of an old entrenchment -and barrack. Besides the custom-house officers, only three families live -on the whole island. We saw the light-house, and the houses at Mobile -Point, not far from us. I wished to have gone there to see the -fortification lately commenced, but it was too far to go on a rough sea -in a skiff. - -On the 20th of January, the wind was more favourable; it blew from the -north-east, and dispersed the clouds, and we set sail. After several -delays, caused by striking on sand-banks, we proceeded with a favourable -wind, passed Dauphin Island and the islands Petit Bois, Massacre, Horn, -and Ship Island. - -These islands consist of high sand-hills, some of them covered with -pine, and remind one strongly of the coasts of Holland and Flanders. -Behind Horn and Massacre Islands lies a bay, which is called Pascagoula, -from a river rising in the state of Mississippi, and emptying here into -the sea. Ship Island is about nine miles long, and it was here that the -English fleet which transported the troops sent on the expedition -against New Orleans, remained during the months of December and January, -1814-15. At a considerable distance from us to the left, were some -scattered islands, called Les Malheureux. Behind these were the islands -De la Chandeleur, and still farther La Clef du Francmacon. Afterwards we -passed a muddy shallow, upon which, luckily, we did not stick fast, and -arrived in the gulf Lac Borgne, which connects itself with Lake -Ponchartrain, lying back of it, by two communications, each above a mile -broad; of which one is called Chef Menteur, and the other the Rigolets. -Both are guarded by forts, the first by the fort of Chef Menteur, the -other by that of the Petites Coquilles, so called because it is built on -a foundation of muscle shells, and its walls are composed of a cement of -the same. We took this last direction, and passed the Rigolets in the -night, with a fair wind. Night had already fallen when we reached Lake -Borgne. After we had passed the Rigolets, we arrived in Lake -Ponchartrain, then turned left from the light-house of Fort St. John, -which protects the entrance of the bayou of the same name, leading to -New Orleans. - -I awoke on the 21st of January, as we entered the bayou St. John. This -water is so broad, that we could not see the northern shore. We remained -at the entrance one hour, to give the sailors a short rest, who had -worked the whole night, and whose duty it was now to tow the vessel to -the city, six miles distant. This fort, which has lost its importance -since the erection of Chef Menteur, and Petites Coquilles, is abandoned, -and a tavern is now building in its place. It lies about five hundred -paces distant from the sea, but on account of the marshy banks cannot be -thence attacked without great difficulty. The bank is covered with thick -beams, to make it hold firm, which covering in this hot and damp climate -perishes very quickly. The causeway which runs along the bayou, is of -made earth on a foundation of timber. Behind the fort is a public house, -called Ponchartrain Hotel, which is much frequented by persons from the -city during summer. I recognized the darling amusements of the -inhabitants, in a pharo and roulette table. - -As the passage hence to the city is very tedious in stages, we proposed -to hire a carriage, but there was none to be found; six dollars was -asked for a boat; we therefore, decided to go on foot. The Colonel, Mr. -Huygens, Mr. Egbert, Mr. Chew, and myself made up this walking party. -The morning was beautiful spring weather; we passed through a shocking -marshy country, along the right side of the bayou. The woods were -hanging full of the hateful Spanish moss, and a number of palmettoes -were the only variety afforded. The causeway was very muddy; there were -good wooden bridges over little ditches, which conveyed the water from -the surrounding marshes into the bayou. - -After we had proceeded three miles in this manner, we came into a -cultivated district, passed a sort of gate, and found ourselves quite in -another world. Plantations, with handsome buildings, followed in quick -succession; noble live oaks, which had been trimmed to regular shapes, -young orange trees, pride of China, and other tropical trees and bushes, -along the road. Several inns and public gardens were exhibited, for a -population that willingly seeks amusement. We noticed several -mansion-houses, ornamented with columns, piazzas, and covered galleries; -some of these were of ancient style in building. It was naturally -agreeable to me, after wandering a long time in mere wildernesses, once -more to come into a long civilized country. We saw from afar, the white -spires of the cathedral of New Orleans, also the masts of the ships -lying in the Mississippi. The bayou unites itself, three miles from this -city, with a canal leading thither, which we passed upon a turning -bridge, to strike into the city by a nearer way. - -This road carried us between well-built mansions, and over the streets -were hung reflecting lamps. The first view of the city, as we reached, -without knowing it, was really not handsome; for we came into the oldest -section, which consisted only of little one-story houses, with mud -walls, and wide projecting roofs. On the whole, the streets are -regularly laid out, part parallel with the river, the rest perpendicular -to it. The ancient town was surrounded by a wall, which is destroyed, in -its room there is a boulevard laid out, called Rue de Remparts. Next to -the old town below, lies the suburb Marigny, and above, that of St. -Mary; then begins the most elegant part of the city. - -Before we searched for lodgings, we looked about a little through the -city, and went first to the Mississippi, to pay our homage to this -"father of rivers." It is about half a mile wide, and must be above -eighty fathoms deep; it is separated from the city by a compost of -muscle shells. This causeway defends it from inundations. There are no -wharves, they cannot be fixed, as the river would sweep them away. The -ships lay four and five deep, in tiers along the bank, as in the Thames, -at London. Below them, were ten very large steam-boats, employed in the -river trade. In a line with the bank stood houses, which were two or -three stories high, and built of brick, also ancient massive Spanish -houses, known by their heavy, solid style, and mostly white. We passed -by a square, of which the river formed one side, opposite stood the -cathedral, and on each side of it, a massive public edifice, with -arcades. Along the bank stood the market-houses, built of brick, -modelled after the Propylaea, in Athens, and divided into separate -blocks. We saw in these, fine pine-apples, oranges, bananas, -peccan-nuts, cocoa-nuts, and vegetables of different descriptions; also -several shops, in which coffee and oysters were sold. The black -population appeared very large; we were informed, that above one-half of -the inhabitants, forty-five thousand in number, were of the darker -colour. The custom-house on the Levee, is a pretty building. - -We met a merchant, Mr. Ogden, partner of Mr. William Nott, to whose -house I had letters, who had the politeness to take charge of us, and -assist us in our search for lodgings. We obtained tolerable quarters in -the boarding house of Madame Herries, Rue de Chartres. The first person -I encountered in this house, was Count Vidua, with whom I had become -acquainted in New York, and who since had travelled through Canada, the -western country, and down the Ohio and Mississippi. - -My first excursion was to visit Mr. Grymes, who here inhabits a large, -massive, and splendidly furnished house. I found only Mrs. Grymes at -home, who after an exceedingly fatiguing journey arrived here, and in -fourteen days after had given birth to a fine son. I found two elegantly -arranged rooms prepared for me, but I did not accept this hospitable -invitation. After some time Mr. Grymes came home, and accompanied me -back to my lodgings. As our schooner had not yet arrived, we went to -meet it and found it in the canal, a mile and a half from town, where -two cotton boats blocked up the way. We had our baggage put into the -skiff, and came with it into the basin, where the canal terminates. - -In the evening we paid our visit to the governor of the state of -Louisiana, Mr. Johnson, but did not find him at home. After this we went -to several coffee-houses, where the lower class amused themselves, -hearing a workman singing in Spanish, which he accompanied with the -guitar. Mr. Grymes took me to the masked ball, which is held every -evening during the carnival at the French theatre. The saloon in which -they danced, was quite long, well planned, and adorned with large -mirrors. Round it were three rows of benches amphitheatrically arranged. -There were few masks, only a few dominos, none in character. Cotillions -and waltzes were the dances performed. The dress of the ladies I -observed to be very elegant, but understood that most of those dancing -did not belong to the better class of society. There were several -adjoining rooms open, in which there is a supper when subscription balls -are given. In the ground floor of the building are rooms, in which pharo -and roulette are played. These places were obscure, and resembled -caverns: the company playing there appeared from their dress, not to be -of the best description. - -Next day, we made new acquaintances, and renewed some old ones. -I remained in this city several weeks, for I was obliged to give up my -plan of visiting Mexico, as no stranger was allowed to go to that -country who was not a subject of such states as had recognized the new -government. There were too many obstacles in my way, and therefore I -determined to wait in New Orleans for the mild season, and then to -ascend the Mississippi. The result was an extensive acquaintance, -a succession of visits, a certain conformity in living, from which one -cannot refrain yielding to in a city. No day passed over this winter -which did not produce something pleasant or interesting, each day -however, was nearly the same as its predecessors. Dinners, evening -parties, plays, masquerades, and other amusements followed close on each -other, and were interrupted only by the little circumstances which -accompany life in this hemisphere, as well as in the other. - -The cathedral in New Orleans is built in a dull and heavy style of -architecture externally, with a gable on which a tower and two lateral -cupolas are erected. The facade is so confused, that I cannot pretend to -describe it. Within, the church resembles a village church in Flanders. -The ceiling is of wood, the pillars which support it, and divide the -nave into three aisles, are heavy, made of wood, covered with plaster: -as well as the walls, they are constructed without taste. The three -altars are distinguished by no remarkable ornament. Upon one of the side -altars stands an ugly wax image of the virgin and child. Near the great -altar is a throne for the bishop. On Sundays and holy-days, this -cathedral is visited by the beau monde; except on these occasions, -I found that most of the worshippers consisted only of blacks, and -coloured people, the chief part of them females. - -The sinking of the earth of the Levee is guarded against in a peculiar -way. In Holland piles are driven in along the water for this purpose, -and held together by wattling. After the dam is raised up, there are -palisades of the same kind placed behind each other. Here the twigs of -the palmetto are inserted in the ground close together, and their -fan-like leaves form a wall, which prevents the earth from rolling down. - -There are only two streets paved in the city; but all have brick -side-walks. The paving stones are brought as ballast by the ships from -the northern states, and sell here very high. Several side-walks are -also laid with broad flag stones. In the carriage way of the streets -there is a prodigious quantity of mud. After a rain it is difficult even -for a carriage to pass; the walkers who wish to go from one side to the -other, have a severe inconvenience before them; either they must make a -long digression, to find some stones that are placed in the abyss, for -the benefit of jumping over, or if they undertake to wade through, run a -risk of sticking fast. - -Sunday is not observed with the puritanic strictness in New Orleans, -that it is in the north. The shops are open, and there is singing and -guitar-playing in the streets. In New York, or Philadelphia, such -proceedings would be regarded as outrageously indecent. On a Sunday we -went for the first time, to the French theatre, in which a play was -performed every Sunday and Thursday. The piece for this night, was the -tragedy of Regulus, and two vaudevilles. The dramatic corps was merely -tolerable, such as those of the small French provincial towns,[II-3] -where they never presume to present tragedies, or comedies of the -highest class. "Regulus" was murdered; Mr. Marchand and Madame Clozel, -whose husband performed the comic parts very well in the vaudevilles, -alone distinguished themselves. The saloon is not very large, but well -ornamented; below is the pit and parquet, a row of boxes each for four -persons, and before them a balcony. The boxes are not divided by walls, -but only separated by a low partition, so that the ladies can exhibit -themselves conveniently. Over the first row of boxes is a second, to -which the free colored people resort, who are not admitted to any other -part of the theatre, and above this row is the gallery, in which slaves -may go, with the permission of their masters. Behind the boxes is a -lobby, where the gentlemen who do not wish to sit in a box, stand, or -walk about, where they can see over the boxes. The theatre was less -attended, than we had supposed it would be; and it was said, that the -great shock felt in the commercial world, on account of the bankruptcy -of three of the most distinguished houses, in consequence of unfortunate -speculations in cotton, and the failures in Liverpool, was the cause of -this desertion. - - [Footnote II-3: [This is the same corps which the Philadelphians - extol so highly, that one might almost suppose them equal to the - artists of the _Theatre Francais_, if, unfortunately, one visit to - the theatre, did not completely dispel the illusion!]--TRANS.] - -The garrison consists of two companies of infantry, of the first and -fourth regiments. This has been here since the last insurrection of the -negroes, and has been continued, to overawe them. In case of a serious -alarm, this would prove but of little service! and what security is -there against such an alarm? In Chartres street, where we dwelt, there -were two establishments, which constantly revolted my feelings, to wit: -shops in which negroes were purchased and sold. These unfortunate -beings, of both sexes, stood or sat the whole day, in these shops, or in -front of them, to exhibit themselves, and wait for purchasers. The -abomination is shocking, and the barbarity and indifference, produced by -the custom in white men, is indescribable.[II-4] - - [Footnote II-4: Among the slave traders, a Hollander from - Amsterdam, disgusted me particularly, his name was Jacobs. He had - the most vulgar and sinister countenance imaginable, was - constantly drunk, and treated the wretched negroes in the most - brutal manner; he was, however, severely beaten by these miserable - beings, driven to despair.[II-4a]] - - [Footnote II-4a: The virtuous indignation of the Duke, at - these horrible consequences of slavery, is such as every man, - not hardened by long familiarity with such scenes, must feel; - those to whom they are daily presented regard them with calm - indifference, or even attempt to argue in favour of their - continuance and harmlessness. It is not as generally known, as - it should be, that the _slave trade_ is carried on, almost as - vigorously now, as ever it was, and by citizens of almost - every nation; not in the least excepting Americans. The slave - vessels sail principally from Havanna and St. Thomas, and land - their cargoes on the island of Puerto Rico, and elsewhere, - whither purchasers and agents resort, when such an arrival - occurs. Two schooners, with large cargoes, arrived in Puerto - Rico in February last, and two brigs were daily expected. It - is said in the West Indies, that all ships of war, of powers - owning West India Colonies, _connive_ at the trade, which is - fully supported by facts; as French, Danish, and English - cruisers were in the vicinity, when the above mentioned - cargoes arrived. The idea of cruising off the coast of Africa, - to prevent the trade, is ridiculed by the slave dealers, with - one of whom the writer of this note conversed. If the - American, or any other government _really wished_ to put an - end to this trade, it could be very effectually accomplished, - by sending small armed vessels to intercept the slave traders - near their places of landing cargoes, which are not very - numerous. It is also said, in the West Indies, that the - Havanna traders still contrive to introduce Africans into the - southern part of the United States; of the truth or falsehood - of this, we know nothing. The slave vessels are generally - Baltimore clipper brigs, and schooners, completely armed and - very fast sailers. Two of them sailed on this execrable trade - in February last, from a part visited by the writer. --_Trans._] - -There were subscription balls given in New Orleans, to which the -managers had the politeness to invite us. These balls took place twice a -week, Tuesdays and Fridays, at the French theatre, where the masquerade -had been, which I mentioned before. None but good society were admitted -to these subscription balls; the first that we attended was not crowded, -however, the generality of the ladies present were very pretty, and had -a very genteel French air. The dress was extremely elegant, and after -the latest Paris fashion. The ladies danced, upon the whole, -excellently, and did great honour to their French teachers. Dancing, and -some instruction in music, is almost the whole education of the female -creoles. - -Most of the gentlemen here are far behind the ladies in elegance. They -did not remain long at the ball, but hasted away to the quadroon ball, -so called, where they amused themselves more, and were more at their -ease. This was the reason why there were more ladies than gentlemen -present at the ball, and that many were obliged to form "tapestry." When -a lady is left sitting, she is said to be "bredouille." Two cotillions -and a waltz, are danced in succession, and there is hardly an interval -of two or three minutes between the dances. The music was performed by -negroes and coloured people, and was pretty good. The governor was also -at the ball, and introduced me to several gentlemen, among others, -a Frenchman, General Garrigues de Flaugeac, who, having emigrated here -from St. Domingo, had married, and given the world some very handsome -daughters. Several of the French families here settled, and indeed, the -most respectable, were emigrants from that island, who wait for the -indemnification due to them, but without any great hopes of receiving -it. - -Colonel Wool inspected the two companies of the first and fourth -regiments, under Major Twiggs stationed here; both together made at the -most, eighty men under arms. The inspection took place before the -Cathedral. I admired the good order and great propriety of these -companies, as well as their uniformity of march and dressing, which I -had no opportunity to observe before, in the troops of the United -States. There was indeed many things to be wished for; as for example, -the coats of the men did not fit, and many were too short; the grey -cloth pantaloons were of different shades, and much too short; no -bayonet sheaths, nor gun straps; the belt intended for the bayonet -sheath over that of the cartridge box: the privates had wooden flints in -their guns, and none in their cartridge boxes, also no spare flints, -files, screwdrivers, nor oil flasks. From the false maxim, that the -second rank, if they are shorter men, cannot fire over the front, the -lesser men are ranged in the first, and the taller in the second rank -through the whole army of the United States, and this produces a great -eye-sore. There was some manual exercise, and manoeuvres in battalion -training: all good. The soldiers were mostly young, handsome and strong -men, well fed and healthy looking natives of the western states; there -were some Germans and Irish among them. The Irish, however, since their -conduct is often in nowise commendable, are no longer admitted. Governor -Johnson remained during the review, which lasted above an hour or more; -there were also several members of the legislature now assembling, -present. I formed an acquaintance here with General La Coste, who -formerly had been engaged in the Spanish service, and at present -commanded a division of the Louisiana militia. Colonel Croghan also -attended the review.[II-5] - - [Footnote II-5: Colonel CROGHAN was one of the most distinguished - officers of the American army. In the last war, he defended a - miserable stockade, (Fort Stephenson) on Lake Erie, against a - force eight times greater than his own, which had artillery, and - drove it back. After the peace, he was appointed Post Master of - New Orleans, and during my stay in this city, he had entered again - into the army, and held the post of second Inspector-General.] - -When the review was over, the governor showed me the two extensive -buildings, joining the Cathedral, with arcades, as before-mentioned. One -of them is devoted to the use of the several courts of justice, and the -other is the City Hall. In the first, the United States court was -holding its sessions, and as it was rather cold, the judge had removed -himself to the fire-place, there to have the business transacted before -him. The suit in controversy related to the sale of a negro. The buyer -had purchased him as a slave for life; after the bargain had been -concluded, and payment made, he discovered, by the declaration of his -former master, the seller, that at a certain period he was to be free. -I could not remain long enough in the court, to wait for the decision. - -We passed then to the City Hall. In the lower story, is the guard-house -of the city guard, besides a prison[II-6] for runaways, or negroes -punished by order of their masters, who are here incarcerated, and -employed in all servile labours for the city; they are termed _negres -marrons_. The masters receive a daily recompense of twenty-five cents -for each imprisoned negro. Near the guard-house stands a small piece of -ordnance, from which the signal tattoo is fired. After this shot, no -negro can tread the streets without a pass.[II-7] The upper stories of -this building contains the offices and court halls of the magistrates. -Part of them were ornamented very richly, as these chambers served as -quarters for General La Fayette, who was here in the month of April -last. Before the chambers, the whole length of the building, ran a -gallery with very large windows, which being raised in summer, change -the gallery into an airy balcony: an arrangement which I had remarked to -exist also in the other building, where the courts of justice sat. - - [Footnote II-6: [Commonly known in New Orleans by the name of the - Calaboose, (from Calabozo, the Spanish term for a vaulted - dungeon,) and a great terror to evil-doers in that city; the - efficiency of the police of which can never be enough - admired.]--TRANS.] - - [Footnote II-7: I have already made some remarks with regard to - the apprehension of negroes in Charleston. If a person wishes here - to have a house-negro, male or female, chastised, they are sent - with a note, in which the number of lashes which the bearer is to - receive are specified, with a quarter of a dollar; he or she is - lodged in the slave prison. Here the slave receives the - punishment, and a certificate, which he must carry to his master. - The maximum of lashes is thirty-nine, according to the Mosaic law. - The species of punishment is specified as in Charleston, or "_aux - quatre piquets_." In this last case, the poor wretch is pressed - out flat on his face upon the earth, and his hands and feet bound - to four posts. In this posture he receives his flogging. This - frightful method of chastisement, is principally in use on the - plantations; and cruel discipline is there chiefly practised. - Whoever wishes to punish a house servant severely, either hires or - sells him to work on the plantations.] - -Hence the governor next conducted me to the old Spanish government -house, in which the senators and representatives of the state of -Louisiana were now assembled. The building is ancient and crazy, -otherwise situated in a handsome spot on the levee, surrounded by a -balcony. There is nothing more done for the repair of this building, as -in a few years the legislature will be removed to Donaldsonville. The -reason given for this is, that many members of the legislature are plain -people, who feel embarrassed in New Orleans, and hope to be more at -their ease in Donaldsonville. The office of the governor is in the yard, -in a small house, where the secretary of the Spanish governor formerly -had his office. - -In a magazine belonging to the state, there are still several articles -which belonged to the former navy-yard, and which, hereafter, are to be -sent to Pensacola. Among these, I remarked brass and iron cannon of -various calibres, and from different countries, English, Spanish, and -French. There were some ancient ones among the French, with beautiful -ornaments and inscriptions. On one was, "_ultima ratio regum_;" on -others, the darling "_liberte, egalite_." These pieces were found in the -trifling fortifications that formerly surrounded the city, when the -United States took possession of Louisiana, in 1803. - -During the last of January, it rained uncommonly hard and steady. The -streets became bottomless: holes formed in them, where carriages and -carts were in constant peril of upsetting. At first it was cold; while -the rain continued, there followed such an oppressive heat, that it was -feared an earthquake was about to take place: it thundered and lightened -also very heavily. - -At the masked balls, each paid a dollar for admission. As I visited it -for the second time, I observed, however, many present by free tickets, -and I was told that the company was very much mixed. The unmasked ladies -belonging to good society, sat in the recesses of the windows, which -were higher than the saloon, and furnished with galleries. There were -some masks in character, but none worthy of remark. Two quarrels took -place, which commenced in the ball-room with blows, and terminated in -the vestibule, with pocket-pistols and kicking, without any interruption -from the police. - -On the same evening, what was called a quadroon ball took place. -A quadroon is the child of a mestize mother and a white father, as a -mestize is the child of a mulatto mother and a white father. The -quadroons are almost entirely white: from their skin no one would detect -their origin; nay many of them have as fair a complexion as many of the -haughty creole females. Such of them as frequent these balls are free. -Formerly they were known by their black hair and eyes, but at present -there are completely fair quadroon males and females. Still, however, -the strongest prejudice reigns against them on account of their black -blood, and the white ladies maintain, or affect to maintain, the most -violent aversion towards them. Marriage between the white and coloured -population is forbidden by the law of the state. As the quadroons on -their part regard the negroes and mulattoes with contempt, and will not -mix with them, so nothing remains for them but to be the friends, as it -is termed, of the white men. The female quadroon looks upon such an -engagement as a matrimonial contract, though it goes no farther than a -formal contract by which the "friend" engages to pay the father or -mother of the quadroon a specified sum. The quadroons both assume the -name of their friends, and as I am assured preserve this engagement with -as much fidelity as ladies espoused at the altar. Several of these girls -have inherited property from their fathers or friends, and possess -handsome fortunes. Notwithstanding this, their situation is always very -humiliating. They cannot drive through the streets in a carriage, and -their "friends" are forced to bring them in their own conveyances after -dark to the ball: they dare not sit in the presence of white ladies, and -cannot enter their apartments without especial permission. The whites -have the privilege to procure these unfortunate creatures a whipping -like that inflicted on slaves, upon an accusation, proved by two -witnesses. Several of these females have enjoyed the benefits of as -careful an education as most of the whites; they conduct themselves -ordinarily with more propriety and decorum, and confer more happiness on -their "friends," than many of the white ladies to their married lords. -Still, the white ladies constantly speak with the greatest contempt, and -even with animosity, of these unhappy and oppressed beings. The -strongest language of high nobility in the monarchies of the old world, -cannot be more haughty, overweening or contemptuous towards their fellow -creatures, than the expressions of the creole females with regard to the -quadroons, in one of the much vaunted states of the free Union. In fact, -such comparison strikes the mind of a thinking being very singularly! -Many wealthy fathers, on account of the existing prejudices send -daughters of this description to France, where these girls with a good -education and property, find no difficulty in forming a legitimate -establishment. At the quadroon ball, only coloured ladies are admitted, -the men of that caste, be it understood, are shut out by the white -gentlemen. To take away all semblance of vulgarity, the price of -admission is fixed at two dollars, so that only persons of the better -class can appear there. - -As a stranger in my situation should see every thing, to acquire a -knowledge of the habits, customs, opinions and prejudices of the people -he is among, therefore I accepted the offer of some gentlemen who -proposed to carry me to this quadroon ball. And I must avow I found it -much more decent than the masked ball. The coloured ladies were under -the eyes of their mothers, they were well and gracefully dressed, and -conducted themselves with much propriety and modesty. Cotillions and -waltzes were danced, and several of the ladies performed elegantly. -I did not remain long there that I might not utterly destroy my standing -in New Orleans, but returned to the masked ball and took great care not -to disclose to the white ladies where I had been. I could not however -refrain from making comparisons, which in no wise redounded to the -advantage of the white assembly. As soon as I entered I found a state of -formality.[II-8] - - [Footnote II-8: If it be known that a stranger, who has - pretensions to mix with good society, frequents such balls as - these, he may rely upon a cold reception from the white ladies.] - -At the end of January, a contagious disorder prevailed, called the -varioloid. It was said to be a species of small-pox, and was described -as malignant in the highest degree. Even persons who had undergone -vaccination, and those who had passed through the natural small-pox, -were attacked by this disorder. The garrison lost six men, of whom two -were severely marked. The garrison were placed in the barracks to -preserve them from this malady. It was thought that it was imported by -some negro slaves from the north. Many owners of slaves in the states of -Maryland and Virginia have real--(pardon the loathsome expression, -I know not how otherwise to designate the beastly idea,) stud nurseries -for slaves, whence the planters of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the other -southern states draw their supplies, which increase every day in price. -Such a disease as the varioloid is a fit present, in return for slaves -thus obtained![II-9] - - [Footnote II-9: [A plain, unvarnished history of the _internal - slave trade_ carried on in this country, would shock and disgust - the reader to a degree that would almost render him ashamed to - acknowledge himself a member of the same community. In unmanly and - degrading barbarity, wanton cruelty, and horrible indifference to - every human emotion, facts could be produced worthy of association - with whatever is recorded of the slave trade in any other form. - One of these internal slave traders has built, in a neighbouring - city, a range of _private prisons_, fronting the main road to - Washington, in which he collects his _cattle_ previous to sending - off a caravan to the south. The voice of lamentation is seldom - stilled within these accursed walls.]--TRANS.] - -We paid the late governor of the state, Mr. Robinson, a visit. It gave -me much pleasure to cultivate his acquaintance. Mr. Robinson is regarded -with universal respect, and I met in him a highly interesting and well -informed man, who converses with wit and spirit. At a dinner, given by -the acting governor, I became acquainted with the former governor and -militia general Villaret, as well as with Dr. Herman, from Cassel, who -was employed in the navy of the United States as surgeon-general. From -this dinner we went to the child's ball, which was given in the -customary ball room of the French theatre, for the benefit of the -dancing master. Most of the children were quite charming, and danced -very prettily: only the little girls from ten to eleven years of age, -were dressed and tricked off like full grown ladies. About eight o'clock -the little children left off dancing and were mostly sent home, and in -their place the larger girls resumed the dance. The costume of the -ladies was very elegant. To my discomfiture, however, a pair of -tobacco-chewing gentlemen engaged me in conversation, from which I -received such a sensation of disgust, that I was nearly in the situation -of one sea-sick. - -On the 1st of February, to my great sorrow, the brave Colonel Wool, -who had become exceedingly dear and valuable to me, took leave. -I accompanied him to his steam-boat, which departed at eleven o'clock, -and gazed after him for a long time. - -I paid a visit to the bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, and was very -politely received. He is a Jesuit, a native of St. Domingo, and appears -to be about sixty years old. He delivers himself very well, and -conversed with me concerning the disturbances in the diocese of Ghent, -in the time of the Prince Broglio, in which he, as friend and counsellor -of that prince, whom he accompanied in his progress through his diocese, -took an active part. In his chamber, I saw a very fine portrait of Pope -Pius VII. a copy of one painted by Camuccini, and given by the pope to -the deceased duke of Saxe-Gotha. The bishop inhabited a quondam nunnery, -the greater part of which he had assigned for, and established as a -school for boys. The bishop returned my visit on the next day. - -At a dinner, which Mr. Grymes gave with the greatest display of -magnificence, after the second course, large folding doors opened and we -beheld another dining room, in which stood a table with the dessert. We -withdrew from the first table, and seated ourselves at the second, in -the same order in which we had partaken of the first. As the variety of -wines began to set the tongues of the guests at liberty, the ladies -rose, retired to another apartment, and resorted to music for amusement. -Some of the gentlemen remained with the bottle, while others, among whom -I was one, followed the ladies, and regaled ourselves with harmony. We -had waltzing until ten o'clock, when we went to the masquerade in the -theatre of St. Phillip's street, a small building, in which, at other -times, Spanish dramas were exhibited. The female company consisted of -quadroons, who, however, were masked. Several of them addressed me, and -coquetted with me some time, in the most subtle and amusing manner. - -A young lawyer from Paris, of the name of Souliez, paid me a visit. -He was involved in unpleasant circumstances in his native country, on -account of some liberal publications which he had made against the -Jesuits in the newspapers. On this account, he, full of liberal ideas, -had left his home, and gone to Hayti, with recommendatory letters from -bishop Gregoire to President Boyer. There, however, he found the state -of things widely different from what he had fancied them at home. The -consequence was, he had come to the United States, and he now candidly -confessed that he was completely cured of his fine dreams of liberty. - -Dr. Herman gave a dinner, at which were more than twenty guests. Among -them were the governor, Colonel Croghan, and several of the public -characters here. Mr. Bowdoin, who was slowly recovering from his gout, -and Count Vidua, were also there. Except our hostess there was no lady -present. Mrs. Herman, a very beautiful young woman, was very unwell, and -obliged to leave the table soon. The dinner was very splendid. - -We crossed the Mississippi in a boat, like a small chest, such a boat is -styled a "ferry-boat." This was the only stated means of communication -supported between the city and the right bank. Formerly there was a -steam ferry-boat, and afterwards a horse-boat, but neither the one nor -the other could be supported by the business. The stream is nearly -three-fourths of a mile broad. Arrived on the right bank, we found a -little inconsiderable place called Macdonaldville, that did not appear -very thriving. Along the bank runs a levee, to protect the land from -inundation. Several vessels are laid up here. The country is exceedingly -level, and is composed of swampy meadows, and in the back ground, of -forest, partly of live oaks, which is much concealed, however, by long -ugly moss. Farther inward is a sugar plantation belonging to Baron -Marigny. The river makes a remarkable bend opposite New Orleans, and the -city, with its white spires, and crowds of vessels lying in the stream, -looks uncommonly well from the right bank. - -General Villaret invited us to dinner at his country-house, which is -eight miles distant from New Orleans, and had the politeness to bring us -in his carriage. At half past eleven o'clock, I went out with Count -Vidua, and Mr. Huygens. The habitation, as the mansion-houses lying in a -sugar plantation are termed, is upon the left bank of the Mississippi, -about a short mile from the river. In December, 1814, it served the -English army for head quarters. The road to it led along the levee, past -country houses, which succeeded each other rapidly for five miles. -Several display the comfort and good taste of their owners. The -mansion-house, commonly, is situated about one hundred paces from the -entrance, and an avenue of laurel trees, which are cut in a pyramidical -form, and pride of China trees, leads to the door. The most of these -houses are two stories high, and are surrounded with piazzas and covered -galleries. Back of the elegant mansion-house stand the negro cabins, -like a camp, and behind the sugar-cane fields, which extend to the -marshy cypress woods about a mile back, called the cypress swamp. Among -these country-houses is a nunnery of Ursulines, the inhabitants of which -are employed in the education of female youth. - -Five miles from the city we reached the former plantation of M'Carthy, -now belonging to Mr. Montgomery, in which General Jackson had his head -quarters. About one hundred paces farther, commences the right of the -line, to the defence of which this general owes his great renown. I left -the carriage here, and went along the remainder of the line, at most a -mile in length, with the right wing on the river, and the left resting -on the cypress swamp. - -The English landed in Lake Borgne, which is about three miles distant -from General Villaret's dwelling. On the 23d of December, a company of -soldiers attacked this house, and took two of the general's sons -prisoners. The third of his sons escaped, and brought to General -Jackson, whose head quarters were at that time in the city, the -intelligence of the landing and progress of the British. Immediately the -alarm guns were fired, and the general marched with the few troops and -militia under his command, not two thousand in number, against the -habitation of Villaret. The English had established themselves here, -with the intent to attack the city directly, which was without the least -protection. The general advanced along the line of the woods, and nearly -surprised the English. He would probably have captured them, if he had -had time to despatch a few riflemen through the generally passable -cypress swamp to the right wing: and had not the night come on, and a -sudden fog also prevented it. He judged it more prudent to fall back, -and stationed his troops at the narrowest point between the river and -the cypress swamp, while he took up his head quarters in the habitation -of M'Carthy. - -There was a small ditch in front of his line, and on the next day some -young men of the militia commenced, on their own motion, to throw up a -little breast-work, with the spades and shovels they found in the -habitation. This suggested to the general the idea of forming a line -here. This line was, however, the very feeblest an engineer could have -devised, that is, a strait one. There was not sufficient earth to make -the breast work of the requisite height and strength, since, if the -ground here was dug two feet, water flowed out. To remedy this evil in -some measure, a number of cotton bales were brought from the warehouses -of the city, and the breast-work was strengthened by them. Behind these -bales artillery was placed, mostly ship's cannon, and they endeavoured, -by a redoubt erected on the right wing at the levee, to render it more -susceptible of defence; especially as no time was to be lost, and the -offensive operations of the British were daily perceptible; still the -defensive preparations which General Jackson could effect were very -imperfect. The English force strengthened itself constantly, they threw -up batteries, widened the canal leading from Villaret's to Lake Borgne, -so as to admit their boats into the Mississippi, and covered this canal -by several detached entrenchments. - -A cannonade was maintained by their batteries for several days on the -American line, but they could not reach it, and had several of their own -pieces dismounted by the well-directed fire of the American artillery. -Finally, on the 8th of January, after General Jackson had time to -procure reinforcements, of which the best were the volunteer riflemen of -Tennessee, who were distributed along the line, well covered by the -cotton bales, and each of which had one or two men behind him, to load -the rifles, the English commenced storming the line, under Sir Edward -Packenham's personal direction. The soil in front of the line consisted -of perfectly level cane fields, which had been cut down, not a single -tree or bush was to be found. The unfortunate Englishmen, whose force in -the field was reckoned at from eight to ten thousand men, were obliged -to advance without any shelter, and remain a long time, first under the -fire of the well-directed cannon, afterwards under the fire of the -rifles and small arms of the Americans, without being able to effect any -thing in return against them. The first attack was made upon the left -wing of the line. The British did not reach the ditch, but began soon to -give way. Sir Edward attempted to lead them on again; a cannon-shot, -however, killed his horse and wounded him in both legs. The soldiers -carried him off, but he unluckily received some rifle-shots, that put an -end to his life, having five balls in his body. The Major-generals Gibbs -and Keane were struck at the same time, the first killed and the latter -mortally wounded. By this the troops, who had continually supported a -most murderous fire, were at length obliged completely to give way. -Major-general Lambert, who commanded the reserve, and upon whom also at -this period the whole command of the army devolved, made a last attempt -to force the line. He led his troops in a run upon the batture, between -the levee and the river, (which at that time was very low,) against the -right wing of the line, where the small redoubt was placed, stormed, and -took possession of it, but was forced, by the well-supported fire of the -riflemen behind the line, to evacuate it again. The English colonel of -engineers, Rennee, met with a glorious death, upon the breast-work, in -this affair. After this unsuccessful attempt, the English retreated to -their entrenchments at Villaret's, and in a few days re-embarked. - -During the failure of this principal attack, the English had conveyed -eight hundred men to the right shore of the river, who gained some -advantages there against insignificant entrenchments. These advantages, -when they heard of the bad results of the main attack, they were obliged -to abandon, and to return to the left bank. Had the storm of the right -wing, and the feigned assault on the left been successful, in all -probability General Jackson would have been obliged to evacuate not only -his lines, but the city itself. Providence surely took the city under -its protection; for the English were promised the plunder of New Orleans -in case of success, as was asserted in that city: General Jackson -moreover had given orders, in case of his retreat, not only to blow up -the powder magazine of the city on the right bank, but to destroy the -public buildings, and set the city on fire at the four corners. The -general himself so fully recognized the hand of Providence in the event, -that on the day after his victory, he expressed himself to Bishop -Dubourg thus: that he knew the city owed its preservation to a merciful -Providence alone, and that his first step should be on his return to the -city, to thank God in his temple for the victory so wonderfully -obtained. The bishop immediately gave directions for a thanksgiving, and -it was unanimously celebrated with a sincere feeling of gratitude. - -From the battle ground to General Villaret's dwelling, we had three -miles still to go over. For some days back, we had dry weather, and the -road, which after a hard rain, must be bottomless, was on that account, -hard and good. The Mississippi has the peculiarity possessed by several -streams in Holland, of changing its bed. The house of General Villaret, -was once much nearer the river; for some years, however, it has inclined -so much to the right, that it constantly wears away the soil there, -while it forms new deposits to the left. The general's possessions are -therefrom increased, and that with very good soil. The visit of the -English nearly ruined the general. Their landing on this side was so -entirely unexpected, that he, being employed in collecting the militia -in the districts above the city, had not been able to remove the least -of his property. The English took all the cattle away, as well as above -sixty negroes. There has not been any intelligence of what was the fate -of these negroes, probably they were sold in the West Indies. All the -fences, bridges, and negro cabins were destroyed. The mansion-house was -only spared, as it was occupied as head-quarters. The youngest son of -the general, between thirteen and fourteen years old, was obliged to -remain in the house the whole time it was retained, and was very well -treated by the English generals and officers. As the English were on the -point of re-embarking, General Lambert gave young Villaret four hundred -dollars in silver to carry to his father, as indemnification for the -cattle carried off. The young man went to the city, and delivered the -money to his father. General Villaret requested General Jackson to send -a flag of truce on board the English fleet, to carry the money back to -General Lambert, with a letter from General Villaret. This was done, but -the general never received an answer. - -The removal of the negroes was a severe stroke for the General, from -which, as he told me himself, it cost him much trouble gradually to -recover. The canal or bayou, which ran from his plantation to Lake -Borgne, was shut up by order of General Jackson after the retreat of the -English, and there were not labourers sufficient left with General -Villaret to reinstate it; it was of great importance to him for the -conveyance of wood and other necessaries. - -We found at the general's, his sons, his son-in-law, Mr. Lavoisne, and -several gentlemen from the city, among them Governor Johnson. We took -some walks in the adjacent grounds. The house was not very large, and -was not very much ornamented, for reasons already mentioned. Behind it -was a brick sugar-boiling house, and another one for the sugar mill. -Near that was a large yard, with stables and neat negro cabins for the -house-servants. The huts of the field slaves were removed farther off. -The whole is surrounded by cane fields, of which some were then brought -in, and others all cut down. A field of this description must rest -fallow for five years, and be manured, before being again set out in -plants. For manure, a large species of bean is sown, which is left to -rot in the field, and answers the purpose very well. The cane is -commonly cut in December, and brought to the mill. These mills consists -of three iron cylinders, which stand upright, the centre one of which is -put in motion by a horse-mill underneath, so as to turn the other by -crown-wheels. The cane is shoved in between these, and must pass twice -through to be thoroughly squeezed out. The fresh juice thus pressed out, -runs through a groove into a reservoir. From this it is drawn off into -the kettles, in which it is boiled, to expel the watery part by -evaporation. There are three of these kettles close together, so as to -pour the juice when it boils from one to the other, and thus facilitate -the evaporation of the water. The boiling in these kettles lasts one -hour; one set gives half a hogshead of brown sugar. In several of the -plantations there is a steam-engine employed in place of the -horse-power: the general's misfortunes have not yet permitted him to -incur this expense. - -After dinner we walked in the yard, where we remarked several Guinea -fowls, which are common here, a pair of Mexican pheasants, and a tame -fawn. Before the house stood a number of lofty nut-trees, called peccan -trees. At the foot of one, Sir Edward Packenham's bowels are interred; -his body was embalmed and sent to England. In the fields there are -numbers of English buried, and a place was shown to me where forty -officers alone were laid. We took leave of our friendly host at sundown, -and returned to the city. - -On Shrove Tuesday, all the ball-rooms in the city were opened. I went to -the great masked ball in the French theatre. The price of admission was -raised to two dollars for a gentleman, and one dollar for a lady. There -was dancing, not only in the ball-room, but also in the theatre itself, -and on this occasion, the parterre was raised to a level with the stage. -The illumination of the house was very good, and presented a handsome -view. Many of the ladies were in masks, and intrigued as well as they -were able. I could not restrain my curiosity, and visited the quadroon -ball in the theatre of St. Philippe. It however was too late when I -arrived there, many of the ladies had left the ball, and the gentlemen, -a motly society, were for the most part drunk. This being the case, -I returned after a quarter of an hour to the principal ball. But here -too, some gentlemen had dipped too deep in the glass, and several -quarrels with fists and canes took place. The police is not strict -enough here to prevent gentlemen from bringing canes with them to balls. -The balls continue through lent, when they are but little frequented. - -On the 12th of February the intelligence of the death of the Emperor -Alexander was spread abroad, which had been received by the ship Mogul, -yesterday arrived from Liverpool, and by London gazettes of the 24th of -December. I could not believe this to be a fact, and betook myself to -the office of one of the public papers. I was here given the English -gazette to read, and I found, to my no small terror, the detailed -account of this sorrowful event. Consternation entered into my mind, on -reflecting what effect this must have produced in Weimar, and increased -my troubled state of feeling! - -The volunteer battalion of artillery of this place is a handsome corps, -uniformed as the artillery of the old French guard. It is above one -hundred men strong, and presents a very military front. This corps -manoeuvred about half an hour in the square before the cathedral, and -then marched to the City Hall, to receive a standard. Upon the right -wing of the battalion, a detachment of flying artillery was placed. The -corps had done essential service on the 8th of January, 1815, in the -defence of the line, and stands here in high respect. - -About four miles below the city Mr. Grymes has a country-seat, or -habitation. The house is entirely new, and situated on a piece of ground -formerly employed as a sugar-cane field. The new plantings made in the -garden, consisted of young orange-trees and magnolias. Behind the house -is an artificial hill, with a temple upon it, and within the hill -itself, a grotto, arranged artificially with shells. At the entrance -stands a banana tree, and this, with several creeping plants, will -conceal it very well in summer. I observed in the garden several -singular heaps of earth, which are hollow within, and stand over a hole -in the ground. They are said to be formed by a species of land-crab, for -their residence. If a stone be thrown into the hole, you hear that it -immediately falls into water. Generally, in this country, you cannot dig -more than a foot deep in the earth, without meeting water. - -It was pure curiosity that carried me a third time to the masquerade, in -St. Philippe's theatre. It was, however, no more agreeable than the one -eight days previous. There were but few masks; and among the -tobacco-chewing gentry, several Spanish visages slipped about, who -carried sword-canes, and seemed to have no good design in carrying them. -Some of these visiters were intoxicated, and there appeared a willing -disposition for disturbance. The whole aspect was that of a den of -ruffians. I did not remain here a half hour, and learned next day that I -was judicious in going home early, as later, battles with canes and -dirks had taken place. Twenty persons were more or less dangerously -wounded! - -It rained very frequently during the first half of the month of -February; in the middle it was warm, and for a time, about the 20th, an -oppressive heat prevailed, which made me quite lethargic, and operated -equally unpleasantly on every one. Indeed a real sirocco blew at this -time. It surprised me very much, that with such extraordinary weather, -not at all uncommon here, that there should be so many handsome, -healthy, and robust children. This climate, so unhealthy, and almost -mortal to strangers, seems to produce no injurious effect upon the -children born here. - -In the vacant space, where the walls of New Orleans formerly stood, are -at present the _Esplanade rue des Remparts_, and _rue du canal_. The -city proper forms a parallelogram, and was once surrounded by a palisade -and a ditch. At each of the four corners stood a redoubt. The last of -these redoubts, which stood at the entrance of the Fauxbourg Marigny, -was demolished only since the last war. It would be important for the -security of the present inhabitants, to have a fortress on the bank of -the river, so that in case of an insurrection of the negroes, not only -the trifling garrison, but the white women and children should possess a -place of refuge, which is now totally wanting. The ditch is filled up, -and planted with trees; there are no buildings newly erected here, and -these open spaces are the worst parts of the city. - -On the night of the 22d of February, the alarm bell was sounded: a fire -had broken out in the warehouse of a merchant. There was time to save -every thing, even the wooden building was not consumed, but in the -course of two hours the fire was extinguished. - -On the same day, was celebrated the birth of the great Washington. All -the vessels lying in the river were adorned with flags, and fired -salutes. The volunteer legion of Louisiana was called out in full -uniform, to fire volleys in honour of the day. The artillery before -mentioned, which gave thirteen discharges from two pieces, distinguished -themselves again by their excellent discipline. The infantry was very -weak, not exceeding fifty men, with a most monstrous standard. A company -of riflemen of thirty men, who had done good service on the 8th of -January, 1815, appeared very singular in their costume: it consisted of -a sky-blue frock and pantaloons, with white fringe and borders, and fur -hoods. This legion was established in the last war, and considering -itself independent of the militia, it has clothed itself after the -French taste, and is officered by Frenchmen. - -In the evening there was a subscription ball, in the ball-room of the -French theatre. This ball was given also, on account of the festival -celebrated this day. In former years, each person had subscribed ten -dollars for this ball; the saloon had been decorated with Washington's -portrait, and a number of standards, and a splendid supper spread for -the ladies. This year the subscription had been reduced to three dollars -for a ticket, and hardly filled up at that price. It was attempted to be -accounted for, by the critical juncture of commercial affairs, in which -the city was placed; the true cause, however, might be traced to the -incomprehensible want of attachment among the creoles to the United -States. Although the city of New Orleans, and the whole state of -Louisiana, has benefited extremely by its union with the United States, -and daily increases; yet the creoles appear rather to wish their country -should be a French colony, than annexed to the Union. From their -conversations, one would conclude that they do not regard the Americans -as their countrymen. This aversion certainly will lessen, as the better -part of the young people acquire their scientific education in the -northern states; at this moment, however, it is very powerful. Under -this state of things, Mr. Davis, the manager of the French theatre, the -balls, and several gaming houses, announced a masked ball, at one dollar -admission, for Washington's birth-night. The young ladies, however, to -whom a subscription ball was in anticipation, and on account of it had -prepared a fresh set of ornaments, to assist their toilet, felt -themselves exceedingly disappointed by this arrangement; as there would -be a very mixed company at the masked ball, and they would not be able -to distinguish themselves by individual ornament. For this reason, their -parents and relations had exerted themselves, and happily brought it to -pass, that instead of a ticket ball, there should be one by -subscription. In fact, this ball was very splendid, so far as the dress -of the ladies contributed thereto. Moreover, no battles took place. - -In the neighbourhood of the city, some Choctaw Indians hunted, and lived -a wandering life. They frequently resorted to the city to sell the -produce of their hunting, also canes, palmetto baskets, and many other -articles. The money for these was afterwards consumed in liquor. They -are of very dark colour, have coats made of woollen blankets; wear -mocassins, and undressed leather leggings, necklaces of checkered glass -beads, with a large shell in the form of a collar, silver rings in the -nose and ears, and smooth copper rings on the wrists. The children until -four years old are quite naked; only wearing mocassins, leggings, and -the rings round the wrists. - -In a tavern on the Levee, there was a collection of fossil bones, which -had been dug out of a swamp, not far from the mouth of the Mississippi, -the preceding year, and must have belonged to a colossal amphibious -animal. The single piece of the spine remaining appeared to be that of a -whale; a single rib however, also found, was too much curved ever to -have been the rib of a whale. The largest piece of those that were dug -up, appeared to be a jaw bone. Unfortunately I understand too little of -these things, to be able to venture upon a description of these -remarkable remains of an apparently antideluvian animal; certainly it -would be worth the trouble of having them examined and described by a -scientific person. Two of the bones appeared to have belonged to the -legs, and from these alone, some would determine, that the animal was a -crocodile. I was informed at this time--I say, with Herodotus, that I -only tell now what others have told me, and perhaps some one may either -believe it, or know it,--I was told that a perfect skeleton of a mammoth -was collected many years ago in one of the meadows, on the banks of the -Mississippi, not far from its mouth, and was conveyed to London, and -that very old inhabitants had heard as a tradition from their ancestors, -that this mammoth had been thrown ashore by the sea, part rotted, and in -part was devoured by the buzzards. - -There is no particular market day in New Orleans, as in other places, -but every morning market is open for all kinds of vegetables, fruits, -game, &c. This market is very well provided on Sunday, as the slaves -have permission to offer for sale on this day all they desire to dispose -of. - -I visited Captain Harney of the first regiment of infantry, who in the -year 1825, as lieutenant to General Atkinson, had accompanied the -expedition to Yellow Stone river, and had brought back with him several -of the curiosities of those western regions, so little known. These -curiosities consisted of a variety of skins of bears, for example, of -the grizzled bear, also skins of buffalo, foxes, of a white wolf, (which -is a great rarity,) of a porcupine, whose quills are much shorter than -those of the African species, and of wild cats. Besides these, Mr. -Harney has procured pieces of Indian habiliments, coats and leggings -made of deer skin. The warriors among these Indians wear the mark of -their dignity--the scalps--on the leggings, those of the inferior grade -on one leg, those higher, on both. The coats are made with a checkered -sewing, ornamented partly with glass beads, and partly with split -porcupine quills. The Indian women, who are designated by the universal -name of squaw, work these ornaments very ingeniously. Mr. Harney showed -me also a quiver, made of cougar's skin with different sorts of arrows, -a bow of elk's horn, strung with tendons drawn from the elk; several -tobacco pipes, with heads of serpentine stone, of which I had seen some -on Lake Ontario already, hunting pouches, a head dress of eagle's -feathers for the great chief of the Crow nation, a set of the claws of -the grizzled bear, which also were worn for ornament, and a tomahawk of -flint with a variety of bunches of human hair: for every time a warrior -has killed his enemy with his tomahawk, he fastens a bunch of his hair, -with a piece of the scalp on his weapon. He farther showed me a pipe -made of a sheep's rib, adorned with glass beads, upon which the Indians -blow all the time they are engaged in a fight, so as not to lose -themselves in the woods; a spoon made of the horn of a wild mountain -ram; various minerals, and among them petrified wood, which is found in -great quantities in that western region; serpentine, and other -curiosities. The coats of the squaws are trimmed with long thin strips -of leather, on one of these a bunch of yellow moss and grass was tied, -which the Indians regard as a sort of amulet or talisman. - -On the 28th of February, in the forenoon, I went with Mr. Huygens to pay -General Villaret a visit at his country-house. A pretty strong west wind -moderated the great heat outside of the city; within it, the thermometer -of Fahrenheit had stood at eighty-one degrees in the shade. Most of the -fruit trees were in blossom. Every where we saw fresh green and bloom; -all was fresh and lively. In a sugar-cane field, there were oats a foot -and a half high, cut as green fodder. The general and his son were -occupied in managing the labours of the field. We went with them to walk -in the garden. The soil is very fruitful, that, however, is the most so, -which is reclaimed from the swamp of the Mississippi, or the Bayou. In -this soil, nevertheless the germ of a real land plague, the coco, as it -is called, shows itself, the same which was made use of on the continent -of Europe, as a substitute for coffee, during the existence of the -vexatious continental system. This knotty growth is principally found in -the mud; and one lump or knot of it multiplies itself so extremely -quick, that it kills all the plants growing near it, and covers the -whole field, in which it has taken root. It is very difficult to -extirpate, since the smallest knot, that remains in the earth, serves -for the root of a new plant, and several hundred new knots. The -legislature of Louisiana, has offered a considerable reward to whoever -shall succeed in the discovery of an efficient remedy against this pest -of the soil. No one has yet obtained the desired object. - -The general explained to me, the manner in which the sugar-cane fields -were managed. Parallel furrows are made through them at intervals of -three feet. In these furrows, the cane is laid lengthwise, and covered -with earth. Some planters lay two cane joints together, others content -themselves with but one. The end of the successive piece of cane, is so -placed, that it lies about six inches above the end of the first. From -each joint of the cane, there shoot up new sprouts, and form new stalks. -In St. Domingo, there is another method of arranging the cane field. The -field is digged in square holes, placed checkerwise at the distance of -three feet apart, in which four pieces of cane are laid in the square, -and then covered up. This method is judged the best. - -The tragedy of Marie Stuart by Le Brun from Schiller, and a vaudeville, -la Demoiselle et la Dame, were produced at the theatre, to which I went. -The first piece was announced at the request of several American -families, of course there were numbers of ladies of that nation in the -boxes. The tragedy of Le Brun is changed very little from that by -Schiller; it is only curtailed, and two parts, those of Shrewsbury and -Mellvil, are thrown into one. Many scenes in it, particularly the -meeting of the two queens, is translated almost word for word. Madam -Clozel undertook the part of Marie Stuart, and supported it from -beginning to end in a masterly style; but she was not properly -supported. Nevertheless, the piece met with great approbation. -Unluckily, however, the machinery was not in order. At the close of the -piece, when Leicester falls in the greatest distraction into the arms of -an officer of the guard, the curtain could not be lowered, and several -minutes elapsed, before poor Leicester could leave his painful attitude. -On this account the audience made known their displeasure by hissing, -which marred very much the effect produced by the piece. - -A representation of Hamlet, in the French theatre was uncommonly well -attended. The Colombian Commodore Jolly, who had brought a brig of his -nation into New Orleans, appeared in uniform, and drew the attention of -the public upon himself, partly by his dress, and partly by his huge -dress hat, with a white feather. The next morning I made acquaintance -with the commodore, and with his two officers, of whom one is a -Colombian, and the other an Englishman by birth. The commodore had also -taken up his quarters with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman, fifty-six -years of age, of which he has passed forty in the West Indies. I carried -him and the two officers to visit Governor Johnson, and also Bishop -Dubourg. The latter appeared very much flattered by this visit. On going -away, the Englishman kissed the Bishop's hand. He, the bishop, expressed -his surprise at receiving this testimony of respect from a protestant; -to which the officer replied, that this reverence was paid to the -episcopal ring. Mr. Dubourg, indeed, wore a costly amethyst on his -finger, as a representation of the fisher's ring. - -For some days back the weather had become oppressively warm, like the -heat of summer. Several persons who were not accustomed to this degree -of heat, found themselves unwell; it, however, agreed with me. After a -while considerable showers of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning -took place. The consequence of this was, in one way, that the mud became -excessively deep in the streets, but on the other hand, the river began -to rise, which occasioned great joy in the city. Numbers of steam-boats, -and flat-boats were looked for, with provisions from the western states, -as they began to grow scarce and dear. - -An acquaintance very dear to me, and of which I shall always preserve a -grateful remembrance, was that which I made with Baron Marigny, a creole -by birth, and one of the most distinguished inhabitants of the state. -One of the suburbs of New Orleans was laid out by his father, and bears -his name; at the entrance of it, he lives in a mansion-house, erected -with taste and splendour. Never shall I forget the happy days, which I -passed in the circle of his amiable family. During the troubles of the -French revolution, the then duke of Orleans, found a refuge and active -assistance with M. Marigny. After some time, this gentleman made a -voyage to France, and was well received by the duke. I saw at his house, -a coffee-set of French china, which he had received from him as a -present. The cups contained the well executed portraits of the duke, the -dutchess, and their nine children, and upon the larger pieces were views -of the palais royal, and of the castle and park in Neuilly. The Baron -Marigny, also had in his possession a very fine portrait of the duke, -painted by Augustin, in Paris; likewise an engraving, representing him, -as he supported himself during his exile in Switzerland, by giving -lessons in the mathematics. - -On the 11th of March, in a small company of ladies and gentlemen, I saw -a cosmorama, which was set up here. It is known generally, to be a sort -of prospect, given by being in a dark room, and beholding various -objects, through glasses of different magnifying powers. This cosmorama -contained ten views of different places, which are changed every week. -Some views of East Indian antiquities, and remarkable buildings, were -well displayed, as also, a representation of a hall in the former -prisons of the Inquisition at Goa, not so good; and a couple of views in -Japan and Macao, in China. The examination of all the objects, detained -us until evening. We then accompanied the ladies home, they lived in a -country-house, a mile below the Fauxbourg Marigny, on the Levee. It was -eight o'clock as we descended the Levee; the evening was clear, with -star-light; the bustle in the harbour had ceased; we only remarked on -board of some ships the sailors collected on the deck, under an -illuminated awning, where the captain held evening divine service. -Precisely at eight o'clock, the retreat-gun fired at the City Hall, -which is the signal for the negroes to return home, immediately after, -the two Colombian brigs fired, the drums and bugles sounded the retreat, -while the barracks of the infantry did the same. All this, added to the -lighted ships, and the solitary gleams from the opposite side of the -river, made an impression upon me, which I cannot venture to describe. -The wretched miry way, in which we nearly stuck fast, was almost -forgotten. One of the gentlemen accompanying us, had the politeness to -send me home in his chaise. This was a pleasant attention to me, for -there are drunken sailors, and fellows of the lower class, (which are -called here, as in Mexico, Guichinangos,) in great numbers here, and as -these creatures have a strong propensity to street-robbing and stabbing, -it is not very prudent to be alone on a dark evening, upon this deserted -road. - -In an excursion to the country-house of Mr. David Urquhart, I observed -the great injury done by the coco, before alluded to, in his garden; it -covered both the walks and beds, from which daily industry will not root -it out. In the vegetable garden, I found most kinds of those used in -Europe, the peas were as large on the 13th of March, as they are in -Flanders on the beginning of June; we ate of green peas full three weeks -ago. The melons are first deposited in beds of manure, to force them for -earlier use, and when they begin to sprout, are planted afresh in the -field. The soil is so rich, that it does not require manure. I noticed -several fruit trees of various kinds, but was informed, that the fruit -produced by them, on account of the intense heat of summer, would not be -of good quality. - -The brig Arcturus arrived on the 14th of March from Boston, with a cargo -of ice. This article is very conducive to comfort in a warm climate, but -it is exceedingly difficult to preserve it. Where there is water every -where two feet below the surface of the earth, of course, ice-vaults are -impracticable. The cargo which now arrived, was thrown into a large -brick building, and it was asserted that it would keep there till -winter. I examined the construction of this building. A coffer, made of -strong thick planks, and some forty feet in height, is provided with a -small opening under the roof. Through this opening the ice is thrown in, -and again taken out for use. About the coffer there is carried a brick -wall, and the vacant space between the wall and the planks of the -coffer, which is about two feet, is filled up with a mixture of shavings -and saw-dust, which resists the influence of the exterior warm -atmosphere. - -A great quantity of drift timber was floating on the river, even huge -trees. Negroes were busied in small canoes in collecting it, as it -serves the residents on the Levee for fire-wood. The largest part of it, -however, is driven into the Gulf of Mexico, strikes the gulf stream, is -again carried into the Atlantic ocean, and driven upon the shores of -Iceland and Greenland, where it serves to warm the miserable inhabitants -of those inhospitable countries. - -On the 17th of March, I accompanied Commodore Jolly to the criminal -court, before which he was cited. The cause thereof was as follows:--The -year previous, a Colombian corvette had arrived at New Orleans, from -which several sailors deserted. One of these sailors, an Indian, native -of Maracaybo, had hired himself as a servant at a Spanish grog-shop, and -came on board the Pichincha, Commodore Jolly's brig, to visit his old -comrades, and to induce several to desert. He was recognised as a -deserter, and as such arrested. The Spaniard, with whom the sailor -Ramirez had served, laid his complaint before the criminal court, and -the commodore was cited to appear. The Spaniard had employed two -lawyers, a Frenchman, named Canonge, and an old Spaniard, Rodriguez, who -defended the cause of the sailor, and laboured to prove the commodore's -proceedings to be illegal. The pleading of the Frenchman was full of -common place and far-fetched haranguing. Mr. Rodriguez explained his -arguments more logically, though by his Spanish accent he excited great -merriment among the audience. The commodore had no counsel, wherefore a -Mr. Morel was assigned to him as such, who, as he had no time for -preparation, requested the postponement of the cause to the following -day. This request was granted. - -On the next day, we again visited the criminal court. I was apprized -that several Spaniards had combined, and promised five hundred dollars -for the setting Ramirez at liberty. They had employed a Mr. Davezac as -their third advocate. The officers, some petty officers, and one seaman, -of the two brigs, were heard as witnesses. These proved in the fullest -manner, that the sailor had deserted from the corvette Ourika last year. -The Spaniards produced opposing witnesses. These contradicted each other -so vilely in their respective declarations, that they were soon held -back, so as not to be involved in a charge of perjury as false -witnesses. By this opportunity I learnt, that it was considered -difficult among the Spaniards here to obtain a witness for the sum of -eight dollars, to say any thing in evidence that was required. And yet -that is more than such a complacent witness costs in some other -countries. The lawyers put such strange questions to the Colombian -witnesses, and particularly to the seamen, (as for instance, in what -manner was he enlisted, what was his pay, and how he was paid, how he -was fed and treated?) that the judge called them to order several times. -Mr. Morel conducted his defence very well, and successfully combated the -arguments produced by his antagonists. He then laid down the principle, -which certainly is a very just one, that the person who is on board of a -vessel of war, is within the limits and jurisdiction of that government -to which the vessel may belong. Upon this principle the commodore -necessarily must gain his suit, and this he did in a very satisfactory -manner. - -After the disposal of this cause, on the 17th of March another one was -taken up. A resident lawyer, named Lloyd, whose reputation stood very -low, had, on the preceding day, insulted the presiding Judge Turner in -the street, for which reason the judge had him taken in custody by the -sheriff, and thrown into prison. The injured judge presided in his own -suit, and in this manner was both judge and party. I was informed that -Mr. Turner was insulted in his individual capacity, but that he decided -as a judge in the name of the state of Louisiana. This explanation did -not satisfy me, the distinction between person and his office, may be -correct in theory, it is, however, very hardly so in practice; and on -this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary. It appeared -unfair also to me, that the judge was not assisted by a jury. Farther, -Mr. Lloyd wished to defend his own cause, he was, however, half -intoxicated, and attacked the judge so grossly from time to time, that -he ordered him frequently to be silent. The examination of the witnesses -consumed so much time, that I was obliged to leave the court before the -termination of the case. I heard afterwards that Mr. Lloyd had been -adjudged, to provide two sureties for his good behaviour, during one -year, each in a penalty of one thousand dollars, and since he was not -able to find these securities immediately, to be remanded to prison. - -On the same day, Mr. Bowdoin left us, and embarked on board the -steam-boat George Washington, bound to Louisville: afterwards to return -to New York. I accompanied him on board of the boat, and had an -opportunity of observing her most excellent accommodations. The part -devoted to lodging passengers, is built like a house in a boat. The -lower deck, or deck on which the engine is placed, is occupied by what -are called deck-passengers, those who pay a lower price,--there are cot -frames suspended for them, but if there should be too many, the last -comers must of course sleep on the deck. Above this, is the principal -cabin, the passage in which to Louisville costs fifty dollars. Here is a -handsome saloon lighted from above, in the centre and on each side are -enclosed state-rooms, each with two births, one over the other. Behind -this is the ladies cabin, which can be so joined to it by the opening of -two folding doors, that both apartments may be thrown into one at -pleasure. Around this principal deck, runs a broad and lofty gallery, -for the convenience of travellers. Above the cabin, is the deck also -covered with a roof, where cotton, other articles, and deck-passengers -find accommodation. For such as smoke tobacco, there is a separate -apartment provided, in which they enjoy this acquired habit, without -incommoding the other passengers, or the ladies thereby. For the use of -travellers, there is likewise a library provided on board. The elevated -position of the cabin is very agreeable, because one is not annoyed by -the engine; moreover in case a boiler should burst, he is exposed to -less danger, as the explosion can only direct a fatal force along the -lower deck. There were a pretty large number of passengers on board; the -vessel sailed about half after four o'clock, P. M. and presented a -majestic appearance in her progress. - -On the 19th of March, at nine o'clock, I went with Mr. Huygens, and a -Mr. Authur Andry, to his brother Michael Andry's habitation, about -eleven miles distant from the city below, situated on the right bank of -the Mississippi. The road carried us over the field of battle, and past -the habitation of General Villaret: about two miles farther on, we -stopped at the habitation of Jumonville, left the carriage and embarked -in one of Mr. Andry's ferry-boats, sent over for us, manned by seven -negroes, and crossed the river. There was much drift wood collected on -the left bank, through which we worked our way with difficulty. Then we -had also both wind and current against us, and had to keep guard against -the floating trunks of trees. We spent three quarters of an hour in this -passage. We landed at a large field of clover, belonging to Mr. Andry, -and through the garden reached his large and handsome mansion-house, two -stories high, with a piazza and very broad gallery, which is defended -from the heat of the sun by large curtains extended from pillar to -pillar. Here Mr. Andry received us. - -Not long after our arrival, we went to the sugar-mills, behind the -mansion-house, near the negro-quarter. The mill, in which the cylinders -lie horizontally, is set in motion by a steam-engine of twelve -horse-power, made in Liverpool by Faucett. The juice from the cane flows -into the boiling-house, in which there are ten kettles. Mr. Andry -directs himself all the operations, and while the mill is at work -resides in a small room not far from the engine. He has the reputation -of being very severe to his negroes. Whether this imputation be just or -not, I could not decide, but twelve years ago an insurrection of the -slaves broke out at his habitation, in which one of his brothers was -murdered, and his father received three severe wounds with an axe. The -garden here was not well kept. Scientific gardeners are very difficult -to be procured here. Some years before two ships arrived with German -emigrants, who were sold to defray the price of their passage. There -were several gardeners among them. These men very soon extricated -themselves from their dependent situation, and part of them established -themselves; but the rest fell a sacrifice to the noxious climate. As the -term of their service was limited to a few years, their masters did not -give themselves much trouble to reclaim the runaways. Mr. Andry's garden -was surrounded by a thick hedge of orange trees, and contained many -magnolias, orange trees, myrtles, jasmines, &c. We returned to the left -bank about eleven o'clock at night, and our carriage conveyed us through -the beautiful, mild moonlight, back to New Orleans in an hour. - -In the American theatre, "Der Freischutz" was presented under the title -of the "Black Huntsman of Bohemia." This drama, so universally known and -admired, and which has followed me even in America like an evil genius, -(since detached pieces of it were sung and played in almost all -companies,) I had never yet witnessed. Determined not to remain longer -in the rear of the age, I therefore went to the theatre. The orchestra -was very weak and badly filled, hardly any of the performers could sing; -I was told that the handsomest pieces of music are either abridged or -entirely omitted. The decorations, nevertheless, were tolerably good, -I found the boxes and galleries thronged. In the pit there were but few -spectators, and these consisted of sailors and countrymen from Kentucky, -who made themselves quite at ease on the benches, and cracked nuts -during the finest pieces of music; a custom I have noticed in all -English theatres, and from which my tobacco-chewing neighbours in the -boxes did not refrain. The theatre is newly erected, and is arranged not -untastefully. It contains, besides the pit and parquet, three rows of -galleries as the French theatre; the boxes are only divided by low -balustrades, so that you look out as if from a balcony; the second -gallery is destined for the reception of coloured spectators, among whom -I saw not a single female, and in the upper gallery the mob and women of -the town sit. The saloon is lit with gas, and has a very tasteful -girandole. I remained but for a short time. - -One witnesses almost daily examples of the degrading treatment which the -poor negroes experience. I should say nothing of it, but one particular -scene, which roused my indignation in the highest manner, on the 22d of -March, I cannot suffer to pass in silence. There was a young Virginian -female slave in our boarding-house, employed as a chamber maid, -a cleanly, attentive, quiet, and very regular individual. A Frenchman -residing in the house, called, in the morning early, for water to wash. -As the water was not instantly brought to him, he went down the steps, -and encountered this poor girl, who just then had some other occupation -in hand. He struck her immediately with the fist, in the face, so that -the blood ran from her forehead. The poor creature, roused by this -unmerited abuse, put herself on her defence, and caught the Frenchman by -the throat. He screamed for help, but no one would interfere. The fellow -then ran to his room, gathered his things together, and designed to -leave the house. But when our landlady, Madam Herries, was informed of -this, in order to satisfy the wretch, she disgraced herself by having -twenty-six lashes inflicted upon the poor girl with a cow-hide, and -refined upon her cruelty so much, that she forced the sweetheart of the -girl, a young negro slave, who waited in the house, to count off the -lashes upon her.[II-10] - - [Footnote II-10: This Frenchman, a merchant's clerk from - Montpelier, was not satisfied with this: he went to the police, - lodged a complaint against the girl, had her arrested by two - constables, and whipped again by them in his presence. I regret - that I did not take a note of this miscreant's name, in order that - I might give his disgraceful conduct its merited publicity.] - -The river was progressively on the rise: the level of the water already -higher than the land. It still brought down great quantities of drift -timber with it. It was said, that about three days before, an uncommonly -long and thick rattlesnake had been caught upon a tree that had been -fished out. It was killed by a stroke of an axe, and had eighteen -rattles on its tail. From this it was concluded that extraordinary -inundations had taken place in the upper countries. - -In order to pay my farewell visit to Mr. and Madam Andry, I crossed the -Mississippi river in a little boat, and it occupied me full -three-quarters of an hour to gain the right bank. It required a quarter -of an hour alone to pass through the drift wood, which had collected on -the shore. We were compelled, nevertheless, to direct our course -parallel with the bank, for if we had attained the main current, it -would have swept us down with great force. In addition to this, we -experienced a real equinoctial tempest, so that the passage was far from -being comfortable. I hired a horse upon the opposite bank, and rode in -less than an hour to Mr. Andry's habitation, ten miles distance. The -horses here are trained to a small gallop or canter, which is upon the -whole not fatiguing, and carries you speedily. The storm had driven off -in a thunder-squall, I felt but the beginning of it, and reached the -habitation just at the right time. I galloped back again about five -o'clock in the evening, under a beautiful clear sky. The road ran partly -on the levee, partly along side of it. The land is chiefly cane-fields. -I came past three considerable sugar plantations, from which canals were -made in the cypress woods behind the fields, and thence to the Lake -Barataria. These canals are intended principally for the carriage of -wood. The young sprouts of the sugar cane made their appearance above -ground, and the negroes were employed in weeding it. The passage over -the river was shorter this evening than in the morning, it lasted an -half hour. - -Dr. Herman showed me, at my farewell visit to him, besides his library, -the claws and head of an alligator, which he had shot on the lake -Barataria. The teeth of this reptile are indeed very long, but they do -not appear to be fixed firmly in, but are hollow, and seem as if the -animal changed them periodically; for in the cavities of several teeth, -which had appeared to leave no roots, you see young teeth pushing forth. -Below the under jaw, the alligator has two little glands, which have a -strong odour of musk. The Doctor has dried these glands, and hung them -up in that state for several years, yet still they impart a strong musky -smell. The alligator perhaps may avail himself of this substance to -benumb the fish which come within his reach, and then swallow -them.[II-11] - - [Footnote II-11: [Nonsense.]--TRANS.] - -Bishop Dubourg, whom I have often visited during my residence in this -place, received me one day in his library, which contains besides -theological works, many books of science and belles lettres. I remarked -a perfect set of the French _Encyclopedie_, and complimented the bishop -upon it, and expressed my surprise that he should have been able to -purchase this work so complete in this country. The worthy man related -with a smile how he had acquired it. As he was travelling through -Flanders in 1816 and 1817, in company with the Bishop Prince de Broglio, -he formed an acquaintance with a gentleman and his daughter, well known -for their bigotry. The latter, a great admirer of books, told him -confidingly, that she experienced great scruples on account of keeping -in her library the Encyclopedie, in which so many wicked things were -contained in opposition to the church. She inquired of him whether she -had not better throw this shocking book into the fire? He himself being -a great book fancier, and having observed that the work was complete, -forbid this pious proceeding, and told her that if she would commit it -to his custody, he would provide against its proving prejudicial. In -this manner he saved this expensive work from destruction, and thereby -enriched his own library. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - _Travels up the Mississippi from New Orleans to St. Louis, and to - St. Charles, on the Missouri_. - - -After a stay of nine weeks, I at length left New Orleans, on the 26th of -March, with the most grateful feelings towards its inhabitants, who had -received me in a friendly and affectionate manner, and had made this -winter so extremely agreeable to me. Never shall I forget what the -families of Messrs. Grymes, Urquhart and Andry, did for my benefit, and -with what cordiality and true hospitality they acted towards me. The -Baron de Marigny has, however, merited the most from my hands, and since -he has it in prospect to leave America, and settle himself in Europe, -I trust yet once more to have it in my power to exhibit my gratitude to -him otherwise than by words. The real creoles are, upon the whole, -a warm-hearted generation, and the people with whom I was least pleased -here, were the Americans, who are mostly brought only by the desire of -accumulating wealth. The Germans in Louisiana, unhappily rank behind -even the Irish. They are mostly a lazy race, not distinguished for their -morality, and very different from their countrymen in Pennsylvania, who, -on account of their moral and industrious characters, are universally -respected, and are worthy of this high regard. - -Since my landing in Boston, on the 26th July, to my reaching New -Orleans, I had travelled the distance of four thousand two hundred and -seventy-five English miles. I entered now upon another great journey. -I designed to go from here to St. Louis, thence through the states of -Illinois, Indiana and Ohio to Pittsburgh, thence through Pennsylvania by -Philadelphia to New York. Here I proposed, with God's help, to embark -for Liverpool, in the month of June. - -About ten o'clock in the morning, I repaired from the Levee on board the -steam-boat Phoenix, bound for St. Louis, and immediately left the shore. -Eight steam-boats ascended the river on the same day. Ours was the -finest of this number. She was not large and had proportionately a too -powerful and dangerous high pressure engine. This communicated to the -vessel such a violent shock, that it was hardly possible to write. Mr. -Huygens was still my travelling companion; and I found to my great -satisfaction, a new and very welcome one in M. Hottinguer, the son of a -banker in Paris, whom I had known in New York, and who was now desirous -of viewing the western states on his return to Europe. The remaining -passengers, only three in number, were inhabitants of St. Genevieve, not -far from St. Louis, in the state of Missouri. The day was very -beautiful; the city, as well as the extensive suburb of St. Marie, -afforded a very picturesque view. What a pity that the shores are so -very low. It is hard to determine where the suburb St. Marie ends, the -houses gradually stand farther apart, until they are confounded with the -sugar plantations, of which we observed a good many on both banks of the -river, and some ornamented with very convenient dwelling houses. The -banks are highly cultivated, behind the fields, however, the cypress -woods are seen to commence. Towards the afternoon, something broke in -the engine, and we had to lie by for repairs, about three hours. We -heard music on the plantations, as the negroes were allowed to amuse -themselves on this first day of the Easter holy-days. So much timber -drove down the stream, that our engine was frequently stopped, to -prevent the buckets of the wheels from being injured by floating trunks -of trees. - -Our accommodations consisted of a cabin with sixteen births; behind this -were two ladies cabins, of which, as there were no ladies on board, we -took possession, so that we might be located at the greatest possible -distance from the engine. We met three steam-boats, and several keel and -flat boats, which were laden with cotton, meal in barrels, bacon, hams, -birds, &c. - -We passed the whole night without receiving any damage, although we -suffered some heavy blows from floating trunks of trees. The next day -the dwellings were more scattered, all of them, as well as the -sugar-cane fields about them, appeared in good condition. The banks on -both sides we found mostly covered with wood; the cypress had ceased, -and green-leaved trees, such as ash and poplar took their place. At -first the shore was very low, and we could observe from the marks on the -trees left by the water, that at a high stage of it the surrounding -country must be overflowed. Towards midday we passed the small town of -Baton Rouge, which lies upon a height, and may contain about twelve -hundred inhabitants. It was the first town we had noticed. In passing, -I remarked upon the eminence two brick barracks, two stories high, and -good looking, which are inhabited during the summer by the garrison of -New Orleans, on account of their healthy situation. Baton Rouge is one -hundred and thirty-one miles distant from New Orleans, and owes its name -to an ancient Indian trunk of a tree, which was so denominated by the -first French settlers. We did not stop here, but made our first halt -after sunset, at Bayou Sara, one hundred and sixty-three miles from New -Orleans, for an hour, to take in wood for the engine. Above Baton Rouge -the banks were steep, especially the left. Such solitary elevations are -termed here bluffs. The islands in the Mississippi are numbered as they -occur from the junction of the Ohio down. The last is No. 97, we came -this day up above No. 94, and found all these intermediate islands low -and covered with wood. Towards the rising of the sun, we had passed by -at the mouth of the Bayou la Fourche, the little town of Donaldsonville, -where as it is said, the seat of government of Louisiana will be -established.[II-12] We saw three large alligators lying on the shore -sunning themselves, the largest must have been from six to eight feet -long. The weather was fine the whole day. - - [Footnote II-12: [Our author has somehow been confused in his - diary here: the mouth of La Fourche is generally called - seventy-five miles above New Orleans, Stoddart makes it - eighty-one. At any rate it is about half way between Bayou Sara or - Point Coupee and the city of New Orleans; and of course the Duke - must have passed Donaldsonville, which is at the junction of La - Fourche with the Mississippi, in the morning of the day he passed - Baton Rouge.]--TRANS.] - -We did not lie by again in the evening, but went on through the night, -and still received several blows from the drift wood. - -The next morning produced nothing novel; some tortoises only passed us, -sailing on pieces of wood. The river made many and considerable -windings. The banks are every where woody, and for the most part so low, -that from the water-marks on the trees, they must be inundated at high -freshes. There were several high bluffs on the left bank, of which those -called Loftus Heights, appear to be the most remarkable. There is a -small settlement there called Fort Adams, from a fort that formerly -stood here. Scattered, but considerable plantations, are situated on the -shores. The sugar plantations have ceased, and the cotton fields have -taken their place. We stopped at one of these plantations to take in -wood; I embraced this opportunity to land, and look round about me in -the neighbourhood of the plantation. The soil appeared to be of a dark -colour, and very productive. The trees were chiefly of ash and poplar, -of which one was sixteen feet in circumference. Upon all the trees, wild -vines branched aloft, partly from thick trunks; also many locust trees -grew about here. In the garden of the plantation, there stood a large -bush of the champagne rose, as it is called, which appeared very -beautiful, as it was in full bloom, and diffused a delicious odour. The -raising of bees was carried on at this plantation. The vegetation was as -far advanced almost, as it is in Germany about June. The right bank of -the stream still belongs to Louisiana, the left side however, is in -Mississippi. Before we reached Fort Adams, we saw to the left of us the -broad Red river, emptying itself into the Mississippi two hundred and -thirty-two miles from New Orleans. - -I take the liberty of inserting the following account of this river, -which is given in the "Western Navigator," a work which is published -with charts of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers: "The Red river falls -into the Mississippi a little to the south of the thirty-first degree of -north latitude. At its mouth it is about five hundred yards wide, and -its general breadth is between two hundred and fifty and three hundred -yards. The main branch of this majestic stream rises in the Mexican -range of mountains eastward from Santa Fe, in nearly the thirty-sixth -degree of north latitude. It flows about one hundred miles in a -north-eastern direction, unites itself with another broad branch coming -from the north-west, makes then a great circuit towards the south-east, -and follows this direction to the Mississippi for the distance of -fifteen hundred miles. The country about the lower half of the Red river -is pretty well examined, and found equal to the other part of Louisiana -in fertility, except about fifty miles from the Mississippi, which -district is exposed to annual inundations. The cotton and the tobacco -raised about Natchitoches and at the Rapids, are of the best quality, -and command the highest prices. Besides many small craft, the trade -employs several steam-boats at Natchitoches. The bed and shores of this -river consists of clear red sand, mixed with clay and gravel, the same -colour is imparted to the water." - -On the morning of the 29th March we reached Natchez, and made a stop of -some hours, to repair a leaky boiler. I employed this leisure in writing -some letters of thanks to New Orleans. This occupied so much of my time, -that I was not able to look about in Natchez. Several of our company did -so, and informed me that the city was regularly and well built, and -situated upon an eminence on the left bank of the river, removed a short -mile back from it. Upon the bank itself, are some few streets of wooden -houses, with shops for provisioning and supplying the steam-boats, which -mostly make this a station. Back of these streets, rises a sand-hill, -upon which the city stands, and a very laborious ascent through deep -sand carries one there. Natchez is two hundred and ninety-eight miles -distant from New Orleans. - -At half past eight o'clock we proceeded: the banks were very low, and -bluffs were to be seen only now and then on the left side. Only one -solitary plantation on a hill covered with grass appeared well -cultivated. It was situated upon a point called Petit gulf, where the -river makes a remarkable bend, and is three hundred and forty miles from -New Orleans. Besides this, we took notice of several little plantations -which are exposed to inundations, and have only wretched log-houses. -They are fixed there by poor people, who seek to acquire property in -this unhealthy district. We stopt at two of this kind of plantations to -take in wood, and I went ashore both times for exercise. At one of these -places, the owner had put fire to all the trees that were not hewn down, -to make the land arable, and to change the wood into cotton fields. The -day passed over in the same way: our travelling party was increased by a -woman from St. Louis, who had waited for us with her three children at -one of the plantations. She was the wife of a mechanic in St. Louis, who -also was engaged in trade, having been to Santa Fe, in Mexico, and from -there had brought mules for sale to the state of Alabama. He appeared to -have staid away rather too long; his wife, and her three little -children, had travelled after him, but not being able to find him, she -now returned home. - -During the night we passed the little town of Warrenton, on the left -bank of the river, three hundred and ninety-eight miles from New -Orleans, and afterwards another, on an eminence on the same shore, -called Walnut Hills, ten miles farther. About midday, on the 30th of -March, we passed the mouth of the Yazoo. - -Concerning this river, the Western Navigator makes the following -remarks:--"The Yazoo rises in the state of Georgia, takes a -south-westerly direction, meanders through a fertile country, and -empties itself into the Mississippi, in the latitude of 32 deg. 30'. At its -mouth it is about one hundred and thirty yards wide." - -The country was again very monotonous, low banks, partly covered with -water, covered thickly with trees, of which the fresh green leaves were -very much hidden by the disagreeable Spanish moss: some inconsiderable -plantations, where cotton and Indian corn were raised, and the -dwelling-houses, miserable little log-cabins, which are built on a sort -of grate, on account of the overflowing water. We stopt at one of these -places for wood, on the left bank. The labourers discovered among the -wood prepared for them, a snake two feet long, green and yellow striped, -with a white belly. They considered it poisonous, and killed it; -I believe, however, that it was not, for at a dinner in the habitation -of Mr. Andry, the sons of our host brought a similar snake, which he had -found in the garden, into the chamber, and I permitted it, (to the -terror of the ladies,) to creep into my sleeve upon the naked skin. -Although the head of this snake had been cut off, yet the body still had -life, and wound itself so fast upon my finger with the tail that I could -carry it a considerable distance. There are many bears in the woods -here, as the wife of the planter assured me, which make great havoc -among the hogs of the inhabitants, but do not attack men. The islands in -the river are very low, and covered thick with timber. - -The weather had become cold, on the 31st of March it became warmer. -Nothing new! woody shores, high trees, poplars and sycamores, with large -creeping plants, mostly of wild vines, and here and there tall cane. We -passed several low islands, which, as well as a distance on both shores, -were overflowed, also some solitary, mean, and miserable dwellings. The -left bank of the river still is in the limits of the state of -Mississippi, the right thus far is in Arkansas Territory; of which -Little Rock on the Arkansas river is the principal place, at which many -emigrants from the eastern states have settled themselves. About ten -o'clock at night we reached the mouth of the Arkansas. Of this, the -"Western Navigator" speaks as follows:--This very beautiful river is -about three hundred and sixty yards wide, at its mouth it is said to be -fifteen hundred miles long. It rises at forty degrees north latitude in -the Mexican mountains, between the river La Platte on the one side, and -the Rio del Norte on the other. "This river, (as Stoddart writes,) has a -rocky bed, and the navigation of it is much impeded by rapids and -shoals. The extensive country through which it rolls, is diversified by -some mountains, numerous elevations, and fruitful vallies, especially -along the water-courses; by scattered groves and copses of wood, and by -prairies or natural meadows of great extent, where immense flocks of -various kinds of wild animals resort to graze." - -The pilot was obliged to be very careful here, since several dangerous -"snags"[II-13] lay in the river where we passed by the remains of the -steam-boat Putnam, sunk there. We met the beautiful large steam-boat -Caledonia, which, coming from Louisville, went down the river in a most -imposing style. The mouth of the Arkansas is distant five hundred and -ninety and a half miles from New Orleans, and there are still five -hundred and fifty-nine and a half miles remaining to St. Louis, so that -the distance from New Orleans to St. Louis amounts to eleven hundred and -fifty-eight miles. - - [Footnote II-13: In these rivers there is a difference understood - between the two kinds of trunks of trees which lie in the stream, - and are dangerous to vessels, i. e. snags and sawyers. The first, - of which I have spoken already in the Alabama river, are fast at - one end in the bottom, and stand up like piles; the others are not - fastened, by being moved by the current the upper end of the tree - takes a sawing motion, from whence its appellation is derived.] - -On the 1st of April, the shores on both sides, as well as most of the -islands, continued still as low and woody as those we had noticed during -the preceding days. The ugly long moss, however ceased to deform the -trees. Upon the right shore, was situated a little new settlement, -Helena, which, from the appearance of its buildings, must be in a -tolerably thriving condition. Towards evening, we stopped to wood on the -right bank, at a small settlement, called Big Prairie. It was an open -place, surrounded by forests, in which stood some very handsome -live-oaks. As it became dark, we saw in the woods a great number of fire -flies, swarming about, which for a moment led us to think that there was -a smithy, or a high furnace in the forest, out of which the sparks were -flying. The navigation during the night was very dangerous on account of -the number of snags: we received some powerful blows, and a branch, to -which we approached too near in the dark, forced its way into one of the -cabins, and made a considerable breach. Luckily no one at the time was -sleeping there. - -Upon the following day we still contemplated no object but low and -inundated shores. The human dwellings, the most miserable that could be -conceived, were placed along in a scattered manner. As we took in wood -towards evening, we were obliged to fasten to the wood-pile, as the -whole plantation was under water. The lights on the left shore, which -may rise about forty feet, are called the Chickesa Bluffs, of which -there are reckoned four in a stretch of about sixty miles. - -Before we reached the fourth Chickesa Bluff, we passed a large island, -called President's Island. The river changes its course almost every -year, and constantly washes the sand-banks away, while it makes others, -so that the chart of the stream made a few years back, is not to be -depended upon as a guide. The passage in which we sailed along, was at -times rather narrow on account of the island, when the river was at -least an English mile broad. Upon the fourth Chickesa Bluff stood the -quondam Fort Pickering, consisting of a stockade, as were the forts, as -they were called in the Creek nation. The two block houses of this fort -are still visible, of which a plantation house has been made. A short -mile above the fort, stands a group of rather miserable houses: it is -the town of Memphis. It is seven hundred and sixty-three miles from New -Orleans, and three hundred and eighty-seven from St. Louis. - -Above this town of great name, the Wolf river discharges itself into the -Mississippi. The state of Mississippi has its boundary here, and the -state of Tennessee commences. It is reported, that Miss Wright, of whom -notice has been taken before, has settled herself near Memphis, bought -several negroes, and located a plantation. During her travels in the -northern states, she expressed so great a disgust towards slavery, that -she could not be persuaded to cross the Potomac, to go into Virginia. -And now, she has even purchased negroes! It is said, however, that she -has acted thus from a philanthropical designs, to follow a proposed plan -of setting the negroes free, and giving them their liberty by degrees. -I have already given my sentiments at Boston, concerning Miss Wright. -All that I have since heard respecting her, confirms the unfavourable -judgment which I then communicated. A respectable person, who had become -acquainted with her in Philadelphia, said, that she stretched herself on -a sofa, spoke little, and gave herself little or no trouble about any -one, now and then breaking out in detached sentences, such as this, for -example; I believe that bears are of more value than men. At Memphis, -she will, I have no doubt, enjoy many opportunities of confirming -herself in practical experience of the truth of this maxim. In the -evening, we were amused again with the great numbers of fire flies, -which filled the woods. - -On the 3rd of April, we were embarrassed by our fire wood giving out. -The banks were overflowed, and there was no regular landing place to be -obtained. At the place called the new cut-off, we had a very powerful -current against us, which we overcame with great trouble and waste of -time. The wood was so far gone, that old barrels were broke up, and a -mast and several boards were obliged to be sawed for a supply. This new -cut had formed itself in February 1822, and saves the vessels a circuit -of thirteen miles. It may be observed on the chart, what a large bend -the Mississippi makes here. By degrees it washed the small isthmus of -land, which intervened between the bends, and formed itself a new bed -directly through. This neck of land, through which this new cut passes, -is hardly half a mile wide. It is but a short time since the steam-boats -first ventured to take this short route: for the remains of the trees -washed away are still visible, and this admonishes the navigator to be -on his guard. - -After we had passed this strait, which is distant eight hundred and -sixty-nine miles from New Orleans, we stopped on the right bank, to -provide ourselves with wood. We embraced this opportunity to go ashore -for a walk, and into the woods. A young man of our vessel, killed a very -handsome snake in the forest. It was one and a half foot long, whitish, -with coal-black, edged spots on the back, the belly white with black -stripes.[II-14] Farther on, a black eagle with white head and tail was -shot. We saw a similar one in the afternoon fly long before our boat, -he had found a snake which he held in his talons. We met with several -plovers also. After sunset, we stopt at the right bank for the second -time, to obtain more wood for the night. This place was called Point -Pleasant, and there were about it several small plantations; one of -which served as a trade-deposit with the Indians. The Indians bring -deer, buck, muskrat and other skins, and barter them for arms, -ammunition, woollen blankets, stamped calicoes, &c. one of our -travelling companions, Mr. Vallais employed himself in this trade. We -accompanied him to the depot, whence he brought a whole cart-load of -pressed skins to the boat, to take up with him. - - [Footnote II-14: Coluber coccineus.] - -On the right hand shore the Arkansas territory ceases, and the new state -of Missouri begins. This was first received into the Union two years -since, and with truly great difficulty, and after long debate; as -congress was at issue whether the state should be suffered to permit -slavery within its limits or not. The state at length, however, obtained -that privilege. - -Six miles below Point Pleasant, the little town of New Madrid lies upon -the right bank, nine hundred and twelve miles from New Orleans. We past -by it in the night, to my great regret; for I should have liked to have -seen the remains of the violent earthquake, which prevailed here in the -years 1811 and 1812. There are great sink-holes to be seen here yet, in -which trees are buried. The soil upon which the town itself stood, has -sunk many feet, and the place has suffered very much. New Madrid was a -Spanish settlement, and so long as the whole right bank of the -Mississippi, that is, from 1763 to 1803, belonged to the Spaniards, -under the name of Louisiana, there was a Spanish military post there. -On the left bank of the river this evening, we left the jurisdiction of -Tennessee, and entered that of Kentucky. - -On the 4th of April, it was exactly one year, since I left the city of -Ghent, and my family. The time has passed over rapidly with me, I have -seen many remarkable things, my mind has been kept on a constant -stretch; nevertheless, that which passed more than a year ago is as -present, as if performed but a few days since. If the great Architect of -the universe shall conduct me in health home to those I love, which I -have prayed for, then shall the 4th of April be a festival-day in my -family as long as I live. - -Both shores of the river, appeared in the forenoon just as they appeared -during the last days. Only we remarked two elevations on the left bank, -of which one was called Chalk Bank, the other Iron Bank. About one -o'clock in the afternoon we found ourselves opposite the mouth of the -Ohio river. The river is here very broad, and both streams with their -low banks, grown thick with wood, puts one in mind of the Mecklenburg -lakes. - -The Western Navigator says, in a note concerning the Ohio: "The Ohio -arises from the junction of the Alleghany with the Monongahela at -Pittsburgh, the first is about three hundred and seventy, the -latter near five hundred yards broad at their mouths. After a -west-south-westerly course of nine hundred and fifty-two miles the Ohio -empties itself into the Mississippi about in the degree of north -latitude thirty-seven. It changes its breadth from four hundred to -fourteen hundred yards. At Cincinnati it is eight hundred and -forty-seven yards wide, which may be considered its medium. Its course -is gentle, not broken by falls or rapids, except at Louisville. It is -inferior to few streams in the convenience of communication from one -part to the other, especially if the operation of canaling the falls, -and erecting of locks, which has long been contemplated, be carried -through with success. The height of the falls is estimated at twenty-two -and a half feet, the length of the descent two miles. The greatest -extremes of falling in the height of the river, are between Pittsburgh -and the Mississippi; they lessen as the river is descended, and the -medium height is from twenty-five to thirty feet. At the lowest state of -water, the river is fordable in many places above the falls." - -The mouth of the Ohio is nine hundred and seventy-seven miles from New -Orleans, and one hundred and seventy-three from St. Louis. Two -steam-boats, the Friendship and Philadelphia, which had remained near us -all the way from New Orleans, here left us, and ascended the Ohio. The -Mississippi continues still very broad above the Ohio, and contains many -islands. From the mouth of the Ohio, the left shore of the river belongs -to the state of Illinois, the right, as already observed, to the state -of Missouri. The banks of the Mississippi begin to be something higher, -and at times still more rocky. We stopt at a couple of solitary houses -on the right bank for wood. During this halt I went into the wood lying -back, to walk, and remarked several sycamores of an uncommon height and -stoutness; I believe I can affirm that one of them was twenty feet in -circumference. We observed from the cooler air, and the less precocious -vegetation, that we were again in a more northern climate. A few of the -trees were in leaf, others were blossoming, which in New Orleans, -occurred six weeks ago. Near the dwellings were large orchards, in which -the apple-tree was in blossom. On the bank grew arbres de judee, whose -blossoms resemble those of the peach-tree, and near them blossoming -white-thorns. - -The water in the Ohio had risen very much for some days, and poured with -force into the Mississippi; this circumstance assisted our progress, -since above the junction we had a weaker stream to contend with. At ten -o'clock at night we reached a little town on the right bank, Gape -Girardeau, where Mr. Vallais had some goods to land. This place is -situated on a high bank, and appears to be thriving and well built, in a -fruitful and tolerably populous district. On account of the numerous -snags under water and the sawyers, the navigation during the night would -have been dangerous, we therefore spent the night at Cape Girardeau. -There are here several examples of unlucky steam-boats. The place is one -hundred and thirty-two miles from St. Louis. - -On the 5th of April we were set in motion before daybreak, and stopped -towards morning at a group of five wooden houses, called the town of -Bainbridge, one hundred and twenty-two miles from St. Louis, on the -right bank. Again goods were landed, and wood taken in. In the outset of -our day's trip, the shores became higher. Upon the right side we saw -sandstone rock, probably forty feet high; they were partly worn with -water, and had singular forms. One of these rocks, which stands alone, -is called the Devil's tea-table. Farther the river is compressed in its -course between two ledges of rock, of which one is called the Devil's -bake-oven, where several steam-boats have gone down. The current is here -very strong. On the right bank rises a solitary rock named the Tower, -resembling very much an old fortress. It must be about one hundred feet -in circumference, and one hundred and fifty feet high. The river became -by degrees narrower. The vegetation continued still more backward. -Towards evening, we encountered a very heavy storm, that lasted, with -severe thunder, rain and hail, for a couple of hours. On this account we -could advance no farther without danger, and remained during the night -on the right bank near the Saline River's mouth, sixty-nine miles and a -half distant from St. Louis. On this river considerable and profitable -salt works are established. - -On the sixth of April, we moved again before daybreak. The storm of -yesterday had cooled the air very perceptibly. After we had advanced -five miles farther, we stopt on the left bank. An establishment was -placed there, Simonton's Warehouse, where the goods intended for -Kaskaskia were landed, which is a town in the state of Illinois, lying -on the river Ouwa or Kaskaskia, two miles from the warehouse: we soon -got under way again. The country on the right bank was very well -cultivated. On a small eminence we beheld the little town of St. -Genevieve. This place is one mile distant from the river, on a little -stream called Gabane creek. Mr. Vallais, and another of our fellow -travellers, Mr. Rozier, a native of Nantes, and established as a -merchant in St. Genevieve, landed their goods purchased in New Orleans -here, and took leave of us. - -We stopped several hours. The river takes a new direction against the -right bank, wears it out in hollows, and often tears away whole fields, -by which the left bank profits. We accompanied our fellow voyagers to -the town, which contains about two thousand inhabitants, of both -complexions. The road ran between fields of Indian corn, and then over a -bridge on Gabane creek. The place has regular streets, but has rather a -poor appearance. I remarked only three substantial houses: one of them -stands on an open square, and is the court-house. Not far from this is -the prison, a box framed of strong timbers. Upon the eminence on which -the place slopes down, stands a massive edifice, which indeed had a roof -upon it, but was without doors or windows, and threatened to fall in. -It was destined for an academy, but for want of funds the plan was not -completed. The place receives great advantage from the neighbouring lead -mines. The navigation near St. Genevieve is extremely dangerous, from -the snags lying under the water. Two steam-boats have been sunk here, -the Franklin and the Cincinnati. The accident of the last took place -when Prince Paul of Wirtemburg was on board. I noticed here several -pieces of a very brittle sandstone, found in the vicinity of St. -Genevieve, and sent as an article of trade to Pittsburgh, where it is -used in the manufacture of glass. - -Before we proceeded on our voyage, we received the visit of a Shawnee -Indian on board, a well looking man of about thirty years of age, who -spoke tolerably good English. He travelled on horse-back with his gun, -hunted on the way, and sold his venison. His dress was very similar to -that of the Creek Indians. Between twelve and one o'clock, we were again -under way. The right bank continued rocky, and contained below very -singular shapes and excavations, which reminded me of the rocks on the -Inn, and the one called Buckfarth Castle. - -About ten miles above St. Genevieve an island lies on the left shore, -called Fort Chartres, where at the time of the first French -establishment, a fort of this name was standing. It was nevertheless -partly torn away by the current, and at present, has vanished entirely. -We passed several islands, of which three are called the Plattan -islands. In the woods on these we saw many birds with parti-coloured -feathers, the largest among them were cormorants. About 5 o'clock in the -evening, we reached Herculaneum, a little town on the right shore. The -river Joachim, which has been turned into Owashing creek, which here -flows into the Mississippi, divides the place into two parts. -Herculaneum is thirty miles from St. Louis, is very small, but contains -several decent houses, and supports itself by the lead establishments, -furnished by the mines in the neighbourhood, and by two shot factories. -The rocks, which form the right bank of the river, open themselves here -to let the Owashing pass through, which flows in a narrow, truly -picturesque valley, which again recalled the Ilmthal to my mind. Looking -from the river, Herculaneum is situated between two high crags of rock, -in the back ground woody heights crowned with rocks, and appears very -handsome. On each summit of the rocks, stands what is called a shot -tower. The material of the rock here is wacke, in which there are many -flints. We stopt here to take in wood. - -The 7th of April, we continued our voyage about five o'clock, and -reached St. Louis about eleven o'clock forenoon. Thus had we -accomplished a distance of 1150 miles in less than thirteen days against -the current, which before the introduction of the steam-boat required at -least three months, a new testimony of the importance of this noble -discovery, so honourable to the human intellect. - -We enquired in several houses for accommodation, but found the most of -them too bad; and remained at length in the Missouri Hotel, a tolerably -moderate kind of an inn, where we were obliged to house ourselves very -narrowly. - -St. Louis has existed since the year 1763, and was settled by French and -Canadians. In that year when Canada with the left bank of the Illinois -and Mississippi were ceded to England, these people were not willing to -be English subjects, and withdrew to the right bank of the Mississippi, -which then was under the dominion of France, but soon after was given up -to Spain. The emigrants built St. Louis and St. Charles on the Missouri, -as well as several other little places: they lived a long time cut off -from the civilized world, and surrounded by Indians. They effected but -little in the cultivation of the soil, had almost no agriculture, and -supported themselves by hunting. They would at length have become -savages, had not this territory, with Louisiana, in the year 1803, came -into the possession of the United States. Since that time communication -and roads have been opened between the United States and St. Louis; many -Americans and foreigners removed here, and brought their property and -their industry with them: and by the introduction of the use of -steam-boats, a new and easy intercourse was opened with the shores of -the Ohio, and with New Orleans, that important depot of the western -states. A glance at the map of the United States shows what an -interesting place St. Louis is destined to become, when the white -population has spread itself more westwardly from the Mississippi, and -up along the Missouri river. Perhaps it may yet become the capital of a -great nation. - -St. Louis lies upon a rather high rocky foundation on the right bank of -the Mississippi, and stretches itself out, nearly a mile in length, in -the direction of the river. The most of the houses have a garden towards -the water, the earth is supported by walls, so that the gardens form so -many terraces. The city contains about four thousand inhabitants. It -consists of one long main street, running parallel with the river, from -which several side streets run to the heights behind the city. Here -single houses point out the space, where another street, parallel with -the main street can one day be built. The generality of the houses are -new, built of brick two stories high; some are of rough stone, and -others of wood and clay in the Spanish taste, resembling the old houses -in New Orleans. Round the city, along the heights, formerly ran a wall, -but it is now taken away. At the corners stood massive round -guard-towers, the walls of which one still can see. - -In a northern direction from the city, are seven artificial hillocks, in -two rows, which form a parallelogram. They belong to the much talked of -Indian mounds and fortifications, of which numbers are found on the -shores of the Ohio and Mississippi, and which are dispersed over these -regions from Lake Erie to New Mexico. There exists neither documents nor -traditions concerning the erection of these works, or of the tribe of -people who erected them. In some, a great quantity of human bones have -been discovered, in others, on the contrary, nothing. This double row -near St. Louis has not yet been examined. - -Soon after our arrival, we made some visits to deliver the introductory -letters given me by Bishop Dubourg. We called first upon General Clark, -governor of the state of Missouri. The general was absent in Washington. -We were, however, received in a very friendly manner by his wife and -daughters. Governor Clark is moreover the well-known fellow traveller of -the late Governor Lewis, in the expedition to the mouth of Columbia -river, on the Pacific ocean, in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806. We -afterwards went to visit Mr. Choteau, who was one of the founders of St. -Louis, who was not at home. - -As we were so near the Missouri, we were unwilling to leave this part of -the country, without at least looking at that interesting river; for St. -Charles, a little town on the left bank of the Missouri, which empties -into the Mississippi some twenty miles above St. Louis, is but twenty -miles distant from this city. Not to lose any time, we determined to go -there this very day. We therefore hired a little two-horse carriage, and -with it, I and Mr. Hottinguer, and Mr. Huygens, began our journey in the -afternoon. At first, all went right. The road ran through an uneven -prairie, upon which many cattle pastured. After a ride of eight miles, -we came into a forest, which lasted all the way to the Missouri. The -country was pretty hilly, the forest consisted of green-leaved timber, -oaks, and various nut-bearing trees, of Canadian poplars, and much -sumach. On most of the trees, climbing plants mounted over them, wild -vines, and ivy. There was hardly any sign of the spring here yet: the -vegetation was still as backward as at that period of the year in -Flanders. This made no very friendly impression upon us, who had just -arrived from New Orleans, where it had long been summer. In the woods we -found several solitary inclosures, made by worm-fences. Wheat, oats, and -Indian corn were raised here. The cattle, and the numerous swine -bivouacked in the woods, and were obliged to take care of themselves. -There are a number of emigrants from the eastern states, also Germans, -established here in Missouri, who have purchased the land from -government for one dollar and a half per acre, and made it arable. Most -of them, however, repent of this proceeding; on account of the small -population of this state, and the want of a market, they cannot dispose -of their produce. We also passed a little village "the station," and -afterwards had nearly been lost in the forest, as our coachman knew -nothing of the road. The road was marshy and very bad; and to complete -our misfortune the night shut in. One of our companions betook himself -to his knowledge of astronomy, and wished to steer us by the pole star. -I trusted more to my judgment of localities, and opposed all learned -demonstrations. My other companion voted with me, and therefore we -proceeded by my guidance, and I had the glory of finding the true road, -for we arrived at half-past ten o'clock at night, on the right bank of -the Missouri, opposite St. Charles, at Chauvin's ferry. - -The way had latterly become so bad, that to prevent accidents, we -proceeded on foot. It was too late to cross the river to St. Charles; -we therefore had a frugal supper prepared for us at the ferry-house, and -passed the night in a little garret-room. The country in the -neighbourhood of the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, cannot -in any manner be healthy; in the summer bilious fevers prevail, and in -the winter, what they call the influenza, which has shown itself in most -of the northern states. It consists of a very severe cough, joined with -rheumatic symptoms. If the disease be neglected, death may be the -consequence. To my no small alarm and dissatisfaction, one of our -chamber associates was very much affected with this influenza, and -another stranger, who slept in the next apartment, was visited by this -malady likewise; so that we were fated to hear a most annoying cough -duett. - -On the next morning we crossed early to the left bank of the Missouri, -where St. Charles was situated, in a small canoe. The river is here -three-quarters of a mile broad, has excessively thick and muddy water, -and a very powerful current. The right bank is rather level, yet so high -that it experiences no inundation, while the left is pretty hilly. St. -Charles, which has the same origin with St. Louis, lies at the foot of a -hill; it consists of a single street running parallel with the river, -and is mostly built of brick. These houses are for the greater part -built by the Americans who have come here in later times, and are -inhabited by them as the most respectable portion of the inhabitants. -The Canadian, (or as they are called here, from their original parentage -and their language, the French,) are less industrious than the -Americans, and occupy themselves of preference in hunting; they live in -smaller, older houses, at the commencement and termination of the -street. The place may contain one thousand inhabitants, who nearly all -belong to the Catholic faith, and have a small wooden church. I spoke to -the present pastor, Verhegghen, a native of Ghent, a young man, who, -with the Abbe Maenhout in Pensacola, and many other young students from -Flanders, accompanied Bishop Dubourg on his return from Europe. Abbe -Verhegghen told me, that eight Flanders clergymen were appointed either -as pastors through the state, or placed in the seminary five miles from -St. Genevieve. - -St. Charles has no remarkable exterior, and the streets are not paved. -We had it in contemplation to go to an eminence lying below the town, -"les Mamelles," where it was said there was a view of the Missouri and -Mississippi both at once. The road carried us through a wood, which -begins below St. Charles. We had no guide, lost our way, and came at -last to a couple of lonely cabins. These cabins were inhabited by -Canadians, who took me for a Catholic pastor. We learned to our dismay, -that far from the "Mamelles," we had six miles between us and St. -Charles. In this manner we took a sentimental walk of twelve miles for -nothing. Luckily for us we had fine weather. We had constantly remained -in the vicinity of the river, the return way took us somewhat -differently, and we came to a great marshy meadow, from which we could -distinguish the heights on the left bank of the Mississippi. The forest -is rather thick, with the same trees before-mentioned, and with large -and very thick sycamores. Not a sign of herbage was to be seen. In the -forest, however, there were beautiful birds, a pair were of a dazzling -sky-blue, and several paroquets, similar to those I had seen on the -river Alabama. For snakes, and especially for rattlesnakes, which are -found in great numbers here in summer, it was now too cold. - -Exceeding fatigued with our useless promenade, we crossed the Missouri -immediately from St. Charles to Chauvin's ferry, where we had slept. We -took our dinner here, and set out on the road to St. Louis in our little -light carriage, about four o'clock. We got over the worst part of the -road by daylight. We were surprised at the great numbers of partridges, -upon which we came, and which were so tame, that they would hardly run -out of our way: they remained sitting within ten paces of us. As the -night overtook us, we reached the better part of the road. We passed a -bivouack of an emigrant family, and arrived in St. Louis without -accident, in a very cold night about ten o'clock. - -The 9th of April found us plunged into the midst of winter. It never -ceased snowing and freezing during the whole day. Except a slight fall -of it that I had experienced at Harper's ferry, in the month of -November, 1825, this was the first snow that I happened to witness in -America. We could not make up our minds to go abroad, but preferred -sitting at the fire-side, and entertained ourselves with past happy -days. Later, however, we paid Mrs. Clark a visit, and spent the evening -at her house. - -The steam-boat Mexico, Captain Clark, from the Prairie des Chiens on the -upper Mississippi, arrived this day, in the afternoon, at St. Louis, -fired a cannon to announce it, and intended to sail the next morning -down the Mississippi, and up the Ohio to Louisville and Pittsburgh. -I determined to embrace this opportunity to arrive in the Ohio, and then -visit New Harmony on the Wabash. My design at first was to have gone by -land through the state of Illinois, to Vincennes, and from there down -the Wabash to New Harmony. From information since obtained, this road -would be almost bottomless at this season of the year, several rivers -were to be crossed, and those provided with miserable ferries. For these -reasons, I declined the journey by land, in which, without such -considerations, there was nothing interesting to attract attention. - -I had also felt a desire to visit the lead-mines, of which the most -important lie at Potosi, sixty miles from St. Louis, which are almost -daily increasing in consequence. I declined to join in this excursion, -since the journey there would take at least two days, the return as -much, and besides the road was described as wretched in the highest -degree. I was told, that the lead ore lies almost on the surface, and is -so extensive, that it is not worth the trouble to dig for it deep. If -therefore a shaft is pushed so deep as to strike water, this shaft is -abandoned and another opened. This easy method of working will last -until the owner has laboured over every part of his territory, then he -will be obliged to have recourse to water-pumps, and steam-engines. On -Fever river, on the upper Mississippi, are also very rich lead-works. -These, united to the works at Potosi, have delivered, during nine -months, eight hundred and eighty-seven thousand two hundred and -ninety-eight pounds of lead; the amount of per centage which the United -States receive from these works during that time, was a hundred and four -thousand one hundred and thirteen pounds. It is supposed, that in the -next year the mine-works will produce from three to four million pounds -of lead, which must be three hundred and fifty thousand pounds for the -share of the United States. It is but a few years since these mines were -worked. - -On the 10th of April, we paid yet some other visits, before our -departure. First, to Major Biddle of the sixth regiment of infantry. -He is a brother to Commodore Biddle, and also of the President of the -United States Bank, in Philadelphia. His wife, educated in France, does -not appear particularly delighted with these out posts of civilization. -We then went to see Mrs. Clark, who, through the secretary of her -husband, Mr. Alexander, exhibited to us the museum collected by the -governor on his travels, and since considerably augmented. Mr. Alexander -showed us articles of Indian clothing of different kinds, and various -materials,--except the leather, the larger part of these materials were -American, or rather entirely European in their origin. A single garment -alone, was made by the Cherokees of cotton, which was pulled, spun, wove -on a loom, made by an Indian, and even dyed blue by them. Besides, -several weapons of different tribes, wooden tomahawks, or battle-axes, -in one of them was a sharp piece of iron to strike into the skulls of -their prisoners; another made of elks-horn, bows of elks-horn and of -wood, spears, quivers with arrows, a spear head of an Indian of the -Columbia river, hewed out of flint, a water-proof basket of the same -people, in which cooking can be performed, several kinds of tobacco -pipes, especially the calumet, or great pipe of peace. The heads of this -pipe are cut out of a sort of argillaceous earth, or serpentine; in time -of war the spot where this stone is dug out, is regarded as neutral, and -hostile parties, who meet each other at that place, cannot engage in any -thing inimical against each other. The pipe which the commissioners of -the United States use at treaties with the Indians, has a heavy silver -head, and a peculiarly handsome ornamented wooden stem. Farther: Mr. -Alexander showed us the medals which the Indian chiefs have received at -different periods from the Spanish, English and American governments, -and the portraits of various chiefs, who have been at St. Louis to -conclude treaties with the governor, who is also Indian agent. Among the -remarkable things in natural history, we noticed an alligator, eight -feet long; a pelican; the horns of a wild goat, shot by the governor in -his tour among the rocky mountains; the horns of a mountain-ram, and -those of an elk, several bearskins, among others, of the white bear; -buffalo, elk, of the skunk, which were sowed together in a robe, skins -of martins, ferrets, &c. &c. moreover, several petrifactions of wood, -and animal subjects, among others, of elephants teeth, a piece of -rock-salt, tolerably white, yet not shooting in crystals, as the -English; various crystals; a large piece of rock crystal; very handsome -small agates, which are here taken for cornelians, &c. Among the -curiosities, the most remarkable were two canoes, the one of -animal-hide, the other of tree-bark, a peace-belt, which consists of a -white girdle, set with glass beads two hands breadth wide; farther, snow -shoes, nets which are drawn over an oval frame, also the rackets, which -they use in playing their game of ball, &c. &c. - -After the examination of this interesting collection, we paid our visit -to Mr. Choteau. This is a venerable old man of eighty years, a native of -New Orleans. He told us that at the founding of St. Louis, he felled the -first tree. His house resembling in architecture the old -government-house in New Orleans, was the first substantial building -erected here. The conversation with this aged man, who received us like -a patriarch, surrounded by his descendants, was very interesting. He was -of opinion that the people from whom the Indian antiquities have come -down to us, either by a pestilential disease, or by an all-destroying -war, must have been blotted from the earth. He believed that Behring's -Straits were more practicable formerly than at present, at least it must -have been Asiatic hordes that came to America. How otherwise, -(asked he,) could the elephants, since there have been none ever upon -this continent, have reached the American bottom, where their bones are -now found? This bottom is a very rich body of land, running south, -opposite to St. Louis. Mounds and fortifications are found there, of the -kind spoken of before. Here the elephants bones are not scattered about, -but found laid in a long row near each other, as if they had been killed -in a battle, or at the assault of some fortification. I gave him a -description of the opening of a Roman mound, at which I was present with -my father, in the year 1813, and he expressed his astonishment at the -great similarity between these mounds, and those of the Indian -grave-hills. Among the stone war-hatchets in the governor's museum, -there are several resembling the battle-axes which are found in Germany -at these mounds. - -In our inn there lodged merchants, who prepare caravans, with which they -go in a space of from between forty and fifty days, to Santa Fe in New -Mexico. The articles which they mostly carry there, consist of cotton -fabrics, cloths, iron ware, &c. These goods they pack in four-horse -wagons, covered over, in which they sleep at night. There are about one -hundred men in such a caravan. From Santa Fe they bring back dollars and -mules. - -After dinner the worthy old gentleman, Mr. Choteau, surprised us by a -visit, and brought his brother, his sons, and a Captain Smith, of the -first regiment of infantry, who is here on recruiting duty, with him. He -staid long with us and was very talkative. He related, for example, that -at the commencement of the settlement of St. Louis, the Indians attacked -the town, which was only defended by one hundred and fifty men, and that -they were driven off. After this attack, the Spaniards had built the -defensive towers, of which the remains stand yet around the city. They -resemble the English Martello towers, and like them were of but little -value. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - _Travels from St. Louis to New Harmony.-- Mr. Owen's System and - Experiment._ - - -On the 10th of April at seven o'clock, P. M. we left St. Louis, in the -Mexico, a neat boat with a low pressure engine. We went down the stream -so rapidly, that we advanced fourteen and fifteen miles per hour. We -received an unpleasant shock during the night from a snag. It gave the -vessel such a violent blow, that all were roused from sleep, and sprang -out of bed: I thought that the boat was going down. Happily we were only -scared this time. Towards morning we hastened past Cape Girardeau, and -all the places which we had seen a few days before. It was agreeable for -us again to come something more southerly, and recognize traces of -vegetation. We reached the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi -about twelve o'clock in the day. We then quitted the Mississippi, and -steered into the Ohio. - -At the period when the French extended their posts from Canada to New -Orleans, the Ohio was known to them under the name of "La Belle -Riviere;" Mr. Choteau, Senr. used this appellation constantly in -speaking of it, while conversing with me. The water of the Ohio is much -clearer and purer than that of the Mississippi, which is evidently very -foul from the confluence of the Missouri. At the union with the Ohio, -this difference in the colour of the streams is striking, when you pass -from the turbid waters of the Mississippi into the purer current of the -Ohio. They are divided from each other by a perceptible line, disturbed -cloudings being visible on each side of this line. - -I took a solemn leave of the majestic father of rivers, the Mississippi; -but, with God's permission, not an eternal one. - -The banks of the Ohio are at first very low, and exposed to inundations. -Upon the right bank, eleven miles above the mouth, lies a small place, -consisting of a few wooden houses, called America. It is built upon a -bank raised several feet above the highest water-mark. It is only three -miles hence across to the Mississippi. A project, therefore has been -agitated, and a company formed with a capital of ten thousand dollars, -to cut through this narrow piece of land, to unite the rivers sooner, -and gain an easier navigation. Since the bank is not exposed to overflow -at this point, as I have remarked before, a town may be established -here, in process of time, when this design is carried into effect, that -will be extremely important and wealthy. - -About six miles from the mouth, stand a tavern and warehouses, on the -right bank, which is called Trinity. In this vicinity there are several -rocks concealed under the water, that must be very dangerous at a low -stage of the river. Some miles higher, thirty-seven and a half miles -from the mouth, fourteen hundred miles from New Orleans, and three -hundred and thirty-four and a half from Louisville, is Fort Massac, -situated on an eminence on the right bank. The remains of a stockade, -two block-houses, and barracks, are what is left of this fort, which -gains its name from the massacre of the French garrison by the Indians. -As long as the western military posts of the United States were kept up, -an infantry company remained here in garrison. This fort has been -abandoned for a long time. Nine miles higher up on the left bank, the -Tennessee river flows into the Ohio, upon which the Western Navigator -makes the following remarks: "This river is the largest branch of the -Ohio, and is navigable for large boats more than six hundred miles. It -rises in the north western part of Virginia, and runs through the whole -breadth of East Tennessee, in a south-westerly direction. Afterwards it -enters at the north-east corner of Alabama, through the breadth of which -it runs, then turning in a northern direction, nearly in a direct line -with the western boundary of that state, it flows through Tennessee and -a part of Kentucky, in which it discharges itself into the Ohio." The -right bank of the river on which we were now sailing, belongs to the -state of Illinois, and the left to Kentucky. Both shores are thickly -covered with woods. Although our course up the stream did not equal the -speed with which we had descended the Mississippi, yet we made handsome -progress. - -On the second night we went on, in spite of the snags, and without -accident. On the third day, 12th of April, we were delighted with the -prospect of the beautiful banks of the Ohio, thickly covered with wood. -The right shore especially is rocky, and occupied by neat dwellings and -little settlements. During the night we had passed the mouth of the -Cumberland, an eastern tributary river to the Ohio. This is one of the -largest rivers in Kentucky. It rises in the Cumberland mountains, in the -vicinity of the heads of Clinch and Kentucky rivers, flows in a westerly -direction more than two hundred miles, enters the state of Tennessee, -reaching Nashville, after meandering through that state one hundred and -twenty miles, in the thirty-sixth degree of north latitude, or -thereabouts, flows then one hundred and twenty miles in a north-west -course, and discharges itself into the Ohio. - -This mouth of Cumberland is eight hundred and ninety-four miles from -Pittsburgh, and ten hundred and thirty-five from New Orleans. On the -right shore we saw the little town of Golconda, afterwards the Cave in -Rock, where a considerable cavern runs into the rock. It reaches one -hundred and fifty feet deep under the hill, and was used by a robber in -former days for a place of residence, whence he sallied out and -plundered the passing flat-boats and smaller craft. - -Towards noon we reached Shawnee town, on the right bank, ten hundred and -ninety-five miles from New Orleans, and eight hundred and thirty-four -from Pittsburgh. The Western Navigator says, "Shawnee town was formerly -a village which belonged to the Shawnee Indian nation, and bore its -name. It is at present a handsomely situated town, in Gallatin county, -state of Illinois. It contains a post-office, a land-office, and a bank, -called the Great Bank of Illinois, with a capital of two hundred -thousand dollars. Although it is subject to be overflowed, yet it is -nevertheless a considerable place, since it is the centre of the -emigrants going to Kaskaskias, St. Louis, &c." It appeared to me safe -from inundation, as it lies upon a tolerably elevated bank. The houses, -of which many contain stores, are mostly of wood, yet I observed many of -brick. It may contain eight hundred inhabitants, mostly white persons. -The states of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio, lying between the Mississippi -and Ohio, hold no slaves; a slave coming here from other states is free: -and yet these states are only divided by the Mississippi from Missouri, -and by the Ohio from Kentucky and Virginia, in which three states, -slavery still exists. - -Ten miles above Shawnee town we passed the mouth of the Wabash, -a western tributary of the Ohio. - -The Wabash, a very beautiful river, rises not far from the sources of -the Miami of the Lakes, and meanders through one of the most fertile -districts of the west. At its mouth, it is about two hundred and fifty -yards broad, and is navigable about four hundred miles. The Wabash forms -the boundary between the states of Illinois and Indiana, the right bank -belongs to the former, the left to the latter state. About evening, the -steam-boat landed Mr. Huygens and myself on the right bank at Mount -Vernon, a place established about two years ago, whence we proposed to -go by land to New Harmony. Mr. Hottinguer left us, as he pursued his -voyage in the steam-boat; I parted very reluctantly from this esteemed -fellow traveller, who possessed many good qualities, above all others, -one seldom found in his countrymen, great modesty. - -Mount Vernon lies upon a high bank, one hundred and twenty-six miles -from New Orleans, and eight hundred and three from Pittsburgh. It is a -favourable situation for trade, laid out on an extensive plan, but has -only frame houses, and at most three hundred inhabitants. It is the new -capital of Posey county. A prison was finished for the use of the -county; a court-house was about to be built. We formed an acquaintance -with a physician established here, and a travelling merchant. The roots -of the felled trees remained yet in the streets of the town, the woods -began close behind the houses; nay, the latest built were encircled by -them. - -On the following morning, 15th of April, we hired a two-horse wagon, to -carry us to the village of New Harmony, which is sixteen miles distant -from Mount Vernon, and lies on the left shore of the Wabash. The road -passed through a hilly country, thickly grown with green-leaved trees. -The way was made very bad by former rains, and the most miry places were -mended with logs, forming a grievous causeway;[II-15] over a little -stream, called Big creek, we crossed a tolerable wooden bridge. About -half way is Springfield, at first made the capital of Posey county, -which, however, afterwards was changed to Mount Vernon, as I have -mentioned before. In Springfield the county gaol still remains, also a -brick court-house, and about ten wooden houses, two of them are taverns. -As the road was very bad, and the horses went very slow, I walked at -least ten miles, and arrived at New Harmony, before the carriage. As -soon as you clear the woods, you have a very handsome view of the place. -It lies in a valley, not far from the Wabash. The woody and low banks of -this river, were at present, in the neighbourhood of New Harmony, -overflowed. From the roots of trees still remaining, it was visible, -that this country had been covered with wood but a short time back. - - [Footnote II-15: [These log turnpikes are better known by the name - of "corduroy roads."]--TRANS.] - -In fact, it is but eleven years since Mr. Rapp with his society, after -they had disposed of Harmony in Pennsylvania, moved here, and felled the -first tree to found New Harmony in a country inhabited only by wolves, -Indians, bears, rattlesnakes, &c. The hills immediately next to the -place, are already cleared of timber of the larger kind; they are -converted into vineyards, and partly into orchards. Farther off are -meadows and fields to the right, and to the left fruit and vegetable -gardens, carefully enclosed by palisades. New Harmony itself, has broad -unpaved streets, in which good brick houses appear alternately, with -framed cabins and log houses: the streets are regular, running at right -angles. We took up our quarters in the only tavern there, belonging to -the community; it was passable. - -Rapp's society, called from their former residence, the Harmonites, -consisted of Wurtemburgers. Their early history is known, and perhaps, -when I visit this society from Pittsburgh in their new establishment, -"Economy," I may find an opportunity to say more concerning them. Rapp -sold New Harmony in the year 1825, to the Englishman, Robert Owen, and -left there with his people on the 5th of May, to go up the Ohio to -Economy. Mr. Owen was originally engaged in manufactures, and possessed -a large cotton factory at New Lanark, on the Falls of Clyde, ten miles -from Glasgow in Scotland, where he had, by the adoption of a new system -of education and formation of character, changed a collection of one -thousand rude labourers into a community of industrious beings. His -system, and his ideas upon the situation of human society, as well as -the improvements that are capable of being made, he has divulged in a -series of essays, which are collected, and appear in print under the -name of a new view of society. They conclude with the project of a -constitution for a community formed on his system. - -Mr. Owen is an enemy to all sects, the spirit of which has generated so -much evil under the imposing name of religion. He allows each person -liberty to believe in what he may consider to be good; so that a pure -Deism is the peculiar religion of his adherents. On this account he was -very obnoxious to the prevailing sects in Great Britain, and accordingly -his system could not extend itself there. He was therefore induced to -turn his attention to the United States, and particularly to the western -part of the Union, where, as he says, there is less hypocrisy of -religion prevailing than to the east. He then purchased New Harmony from -Mr. Rapp, and commenced his establishment in the month of May last. As -he laid the foundation of it entirely on perfect equality and community -of property, many enthusiasts in these principles from various parts of -the Union joined themselves to him; and also a number of vagabonds and -lazy worthless persons, from all parts of the world, that would -willingly live well at the public expense, who had drank away the little -money, if they brought any at all, at the tavern, and who would not -work, but desired to say a great deal. Mr. Owen had gone to England on -account of business in the month of July, and during his absence, -a complete anarchy had been introduced into the new community. At the -end of October he arrived from England at New York on his return, gave -lectures there, in Philadelphia, and in Washington, upon his system, -made some proselytes in Philadelphia, and came back to New Harmony. He -lamented over his people, and brought the situation of anarchy in which -they had fallen before their eyes so plainly, with the consequences -resulting therefrom, that they invested him with dictatorial authority -for one year. - -In the eastern states there is a general dislike to him. It was thought -unadvised that he issued a proclamation to the Americans on his last -arrival in New York, in which he told them, that among many virtues they -possessed great faults, among which he alluded to an ill-directed -propensity to religious feelings, and proposed himself as their reformer -in this respect. I heard at that time unfavourable expressions from -persons in the highest public offices against him; and one of them gave -Mr. Owen to understand very plainly, that he considered his intellects -rather deranged.[II-16] In one family alone, where theory took place of -experimental knowledge, did I hear conversation turn to his advantage. - - [Footnote II-16: [This is, perhaps, the most charitable idea that - can be formed of the actions of such reformers, as well as of a - "lady" heretofore mentioned, who has unsexed herself, and become - so intoxicated with vanity, as enthusiastically to preach up a - "reformation" in favour of the promiscuous intercourse of sexes - and colours, the downfall of all religion, and the removal of all - restraints imposed by virtue and morality!]--TRANS.] - -After all this, I came with the utmost expectation to New Harmony, -curious to become acquainted with a man of such extraordinary -sentiments. In the tavern, I accosted a man very plainly dressed, about -fifty years of age, rather of low stature, who entered into a -conversation with me, concerning the situation of the place, and the -disordered state in which I would find every thing, where all was newly -established, &c. When I asked this man how long before Mr. Owen would be -there, he announced himself, to my no small surprize, as Mr. Owen, was -glad at my visit, and offered himself to show every thing, and explain -to me whatever remained without explanation. As the arrangement -calculated for Rapp's society was not adapted to his, of course many -alterations would naturally be made. All the log houses still standing -in the place, he intended to remove, and only brick and framed edifices -should be permitted to remain. Also all enclosures about particular -gardens, as well as all the enclosures within the place itself, he would -take away, and only allow the public highways leading through the -settlement to be enclosed. The whole should bear a resemblance to a -park, in which the separate houses should be scattered about. - -In the first place, Mr. Owen carried me to the quondam church of Rapp's -society; a simple wooden building, with a steeple of the same materials, -provided with a clock. This church was at present appropriated to -joiner's and shoemaker's shops, in which the boys are instructed in -these mechanic arts. - -Behind the church stands a large brick edifice, built in the form of a -cross, and furnished with a species of cupola, the purpose of which is -unknown. Rapp, they say, had dreamed three times that this building -should be erected, and therefore he had it done; but it is thought, and -I believe correctly, that he only did this to keep his society in -constant employment, so that they could have no leisure to reflect upon -their situation, and dependence upon him. His power over them actually -extended so far, that to prevent his society from too great an increase, -he forbid the husbands from associating with their wives. I also heard -here a report which I had already been apprised of in Germany, that he -had himself castrated a son who had transgressed this law, for the sake -of example, and that the son had died under the operation. Over one of -the entrances of this problematical edifice, stands the date of the year -1822, hewed in stone; under it is a gilt rose, and under this is placed -the inscription Micah 4. v. 8. The interior of the house forms a large -hall, in form of a cross, the ceiling is supported by wooden pillars. -Mr. Owen has devoted the hall to the purposes of dancing, music, and -meetings for philosophical discussions. He told me that he intended to -have the ends of the cross, both of the grand saloon as well as those of -the hall under the roof, divided off by partitions, so as to use them -for school-rooms, for a library, for a cabinet of natural history, of -physical objects, &c. - -Mr. Owen then conducted me to Rapp's former dwelling, a large, -well-built brick house, with two lightning rods. The man of God, it -appeared, took especial good care of himself; his house was by far the -best in the place, surrounded by a garden, with a flight of stone steps, -and the only one furnished with lightning rods. Mr. Owen, on the -contrary, contented himself with a small apartment in the same tavern -where I lodged. At present, the offices, and the residence of Mr. -M'Clure, the associate of Mr. Owen, are in Rapp's house.[II-17] - - [Footnote II-17: [It is understood that Mr. M'Clure has long since - given up all connexion with the New Harmony bubble.]--TRANS.] - -Mr. M'Clure is a man distinguished for learning, who has published a -geological chart of the United States. He told me that he was in Germany -in the year 1802, and also at Weimar, where he had become acquainted -with the literati residing there: I was introduced by him to a native of -Alsace, of the name of Neef, a rather aged man, who had the -superintendence of the boys. Mr. Owen's two eldest sons were also here -shown to me, pupils of Fellenberg, who is greatly respected. Afterwards -Mr. Owen made me acquainted with Mr. Lewis, secretary of the society, -from Virginia, and a relation of the great Washington. He was already -pretty far advanced in years, and appeared to have united himself to the -society from liberal principles, as far as I could judge from our short -conversation. Another acquaintance that I made, was with a Mr. Jennings, -from Philadelphia, a young man, who was educated as a clergyman, but had -quitted that profession to follow this course of life, and had united -himself to Mr. Owen. He intended, nevertheless, to leave this place -again, and return back to Philadelphia. Many other members have the same -design, and I can hardly believe that this society will have a long -duration.[II-18] Enthusiasm, which abandons its subjects but too soon, -as well as the itch for novelty, had contributed much to the formation -of this society. In spite of the principles of equality which they -recognise, it shocks the feelings of people of education, to live on the -same footing with every one indiscriminately, and eat with them at the -same table. - - [Footnote II-18: By late newspapers it appears, that the society - actually dissolved itself, in the beginning of the year 1827.] - -The society consisted, as I was informed, of about one thousand members; -at a distance of two miles are founded two new communities. Till a -general table shall be instituted, according to the fundamental -constitution of the society, the members are placed in four -boarding-houses, where they must live very frugally. Several of the most -turbulent, with an Irishman who wore a long beard, at their head, wished -to leave the society immediately to go to Mexico, there to settle -themselves, but where their subsistence will be procured with as much -difficulty. - -In the evening Mr. Owen conducted me to a concert in the non-descript -building. Most of the members of the society were present. The orchestra -was not numerous, it consisted at first only of one violin, one -violoncello, one clarionet and two flutes. Nevertheless the concert was -surprisingly good, especially as the musicians have not been together a -year. The clarionet player performed particularly well, and afterwards -let us hear him on the bugle. Several good male and female vocalists -then took a part, they sang among other things a trio accompanied by the -clarionet only. Declamation was interspersed among the musical -performances, Lord Byron's stanzas to his wife after their separation -were extremely well recited. Between the two parts of the concert the -music played a march, each gentleman gave a lady his arm, and a -promenade took place, resembling a Polonaise with pretty figures, -sometimes in two couples, sometimes in four; two ladies in the middle, -the gentlemen separated from the ladies, then again all together. The -concert closed with a lively cotillion. I was, on the whole, much -amused; and Mr. Huygens took an active share in the dancing. This -general evening amusement takes place often in the week; besides, on -Tuesday, there is a general ball. There is a particular costume adopted -for the society. That for the men consists of wide pantaloons buttoned -over a boy's jacket, made of light material, without a collar; that of -the women of a coat reaching to the knee and pantaloons, such as little -girls wear among us. These dresses are not universally adopted, but they -have a good appearance. An elderly French lady, who presides over the -department of young mothers, and the nursing of all the very small -children, stuck by my side during a large portion of the evening, and -tormented me with her philosophical views. All the men did not take a -share in the dance, i. e. the lower class, but read newspapers, which -were scattered over the side-tables. - -The public house in which we lived was conducted on account of the -society. General Evans was looked for, who was to keep the house; in the -mean time it was directed by the physician of the society, Dr. M'Namee, -from Vincennes. Among the public buildings I remarked two of which the -lower part was strongly built with rough stone, and provided with -loop-holes. The larger of these was the granary, and it was reasonably -thought that Rapp had this built as a defensive redoubt for his own -people. At the first period of his establishment in this country he not -only had the Indians, but also the rude people known under the general -title of backwoodsmen, who not only saw the establishment of such a -society with jealous eyes, which they knew would be wealthy in a short -time, but also entertained a grudge against Rapp's unnatural rules of -chastity. - -On the morning of the 14th of April, I strolled about the place to look -round me. I visited Mr. Neef, but found his wife only at home, a native -of Memmingen, in Swabia. Her husband was in the act of leading the boys -out to labour. Military exercises form a part of the instruction of the -children. I saw the boys divided into two ranks, and parted into -detachments marching to labour, and on the way they performed various -wheelings and evolutions. All the boys and girls have a very healthy -look, are cheerful and lively, and by no means bashful. The boys labour -in the field and garden, and were now occupied with new fencing. The -girls learn female employments; they were as little oppressed as the -boys with labour and teaching; these happy and interesting children were -much more employed in making their youth pass as pleasantly as possible. -Madam Neef showed the school-house, in which she dwelt, and in which the -places for sleeping were arranged for the boys. Each boy slept on a cot -frame, upon a straw bed. - -We went next to Rapp's distillery: it will be removed altogether. Mr. -Owen has forbidden distilling also, as well as the use of ardent -spirits. Notwithstanding this, the Irishmen here find opportunities of -getting whiskey and fuddling themselves from the flat boats that stop -here, &c. We saw also a dye-house and a mill set in motion by a -steam-engine of ten horse-power. The engine was old and not in good -order, Mr. Owen said however, he hoped to introduce steam-mills here in -time from England. From the mills we went to the vineyard, which was -enclosed and kept in very good order. I spoke to an old French -vine-dresser here. He assured me that Rapp's people had not understood -the art of making wine; that he would in time make more and much better -wine, than had been done heretofore. The wine stocks are imported from -the Cape of Good Hope, and the wine has an entirely singular and strange -taste, which reminds one of the common Spanish wines. - -We went again to the quondam church, or workshop for the boys, who are -intended for joiners and shoemakers. These boys sleep upon the floor -above the church in cribs, three in a row, and thus have their sleeping -place and place of instruction close together. We also saw the shops of -the shoemakers, tailors and saddlers, also the smiths, of which six were -under one roof, and the pottery, in which were two rather large -furnaces. A porcelain earth has been discovered on the banks of the -Mississippi, in the state of Illinois, not far from St. Louis. Two -experienced members of the society, went in that direction, to bring -some of the earth to try experiments with, in burning. The greater part -of the young girls, whom we chanced to meet at home, we found employed -in plaiting straw hats. I became acquainted with a Madam F----, a native -of St. Petersburg. She married an American merchant, settled there, and -had the misfortune to lose her husband three days after marriage. She -then joined her husband's family at Philadelphia, and as she was -somewhat eccentric and sentimental, quickly became enthusiastically -attached to Mr. Owen's system. She told me, however, in German, that she -found herself egregiously deceived; that the highly vaunted equality was -not altogether to her taste; that some of the society were too low, and -the table was below all criticism. The good lady appeared to be about to -run from one extreme to the other; for she added, that in the summer, -she would enter a Shaker establishment near Vincennes.[II-19] - - [Footnote II-19: [According to the report of some females, who - were induced to visit New Harmony, and remained there for some - time, any situation much above abject wretchedness, was preferable - to this vaunted terrestrial paradise.]--TRANS.] - -I renewed acquaintance here with Mr. Say, a distinguished naturalist -from Philadelphia, whom I had been introduced to, at the Wistar Party -there; unfortunately he had found himself embarrassed in his fortune, -and was obliged to come here as a friend of Mr. M'Clure. This gentleman -appeared quite comical in the costume of the society, before described, -with his hands full of hard lumps and blisters, occasioned by the -unusual labour he was obliged to undertake in the garden. - -In the evening I went to walk in the streets, and met with several of -the ladies of the society, who rested from the labours of the day. Madam -F---- was among them, whose complaints of disappointed expectations I -had listened to. I feared still more from all that I saw and heard, that -the society would have but a brief existence. I accompanied the ladies -to a dancing assembly, which was held in the kitchen of one of the -boarding-houses. I observed that this was only an hour of instruction to -the unpractised in dancing, and that there was some restraint on account -of my presence, from politeness I went away, and remained at home the -remainder of the evening. About ten o'clock, an alarm of fire was -suddenly raised. An old log building used as a wash-house was in flames, -immediately the fire-engine kept in a distinct house, was brought and -served by persons appointed to that duty. They threw the stream of water -through the many apertures of the log-house, and quickly put a stop to -the fire. In a quarter of an hour, all was over. Since the houses in the -place all stand separately, there is nothing to fear from the extension -of fire, unless in a strong wind. The houses, however, are all covered -with shingles. - -On the 15th of April, I went into the garden back of Rapp's house to see -a plate or block of stone, which is remarkable as it bears the -impression of two human feet. This piece of stone was hewed out of a -rock near St. Louis, and sold to Mr. Rapp. Schoolcraft speaks of it in -his travels, and I insert his remarks, as I have found them correct. -"The impressions are to all appearance those of a man standing upright, -the left foot a little forwards, the heels turned inwards. The distance -between the heels by an exact measurement was six and a quarter inches, -and thirteen and a half between the extremities of the great toes. By an -accurate examination, it however will be ascertained, that they are not -the impression of feet, accustomed to the use of European shoes, for the -toes are pressed out, and the foot is flat, as is observed in persons -who walk barefoot. The probability that they were caused by the pressure -of an individual, that belonged to an unknown race of men, ignorant of -the art of tanning hides, and that this took place in a much earlier age -than the traditions of the present Indians extend to, this probability I -say, is strengthened by the extraordinary size of the feet here given. -In another respect, the impressions are strikingly natural, since the -muscles of the feet are represented with the greatest exactness and -truth. This circumstance weakens very much the hypothesis, that they are -possibly evidences of the ancient sculpture of a race of men living in -the remote ages of this continent. Neither history nor tradition, gives -us the slightest information of such a people. For it must be kept in -mind, that we have no proof that the people who erected our surprising -western tumuli, ever had a knowledge of masonry, even much less of -sculpture, or that they had invented the chisel, the knife, or the axe, -those excepted made from porphyry, hornstone or obsidian. The medium -length of the human male foot can be taken at ten inches. The length of -the foot stamp here described, amounts to ten and a quarter inches, the -breadth measured over the toes, in a right angle with the first line is -four inches, but the greatest spread of the toes is four and a half -inches, which breadth diminishes at the heels to two and a half inches. -Directly before these impressions is a well inserted and deep mark, -similar to a scroll of which the greatest length is two feet seven -inches, and the greatest breadth twelve and a half inches. The rock -which contains these interesting traces, is a compact limestone of a -bluish-gray colour." - -This rock with the unknown impressions are remembered as long as the -country about St. Louis has been known, this table is hewn out of a -rock, and indeed out of a perpendicular wall of rock. - -The garden of Rapp's house was the usual flower-garden of a rich German -farmer. In it was a green-house, in which several large fig trees, an -orange, and lemon tree stood in the earth. Mr. Owen took me into one of -the newly-built houses, in which the married members of the society are -to dwell. It consisted of two stories, in each two chambers and two -alcoves, with the requisite ventilators. The cellar of the house is to -contain a heating apparatus, to heat the whole with warm air. When all -shall be thoroughly organized, the members will alternately have the -charge of heating the apparatus. Each family will have a chamber and an -alcove, which will be sufficient, as the little children will be in a -nursery, and the larger at school. They will not require kitchens, as -all are to eat in common. The unmarried women will live together, as -will also the unmarried men, in the manner of the Moravian brethren. - -I had an ample conversation with Mr. Owen, relating to his system, and -his expectations. He looks forward to nothing less than to remodel the -world entirely; to root out all crime; to abolish all punishments; to -create similar views and similar wants, and in this manner to avoid all -dissension and warfare. When his system of education shall be brought -into connection with the great progress made by mechanics, and which is -daily increasing, every man can then, as he thought, provide his smaller -necessaries for himself, and trade would cease entirely! I expressed a -doubt of the practicability of his system in Europe, and even in the -United States. He was too unalterably convinced of the results, to admit -the slightest room for doubt. It grieved me to see that Mr. Owen should -allow himself to be so infatuated by his passion for universal -improvement, as to believe and to say that he is about to reform the -whole world; and yet that almost every member of his society, with whom -I have conversed apart, acknowledged that he was deceived in his -expectations, and expressed their opinion that Mr. Owen had commenced on -too grand a scale, and had admitted too many members, without the -requisite selection! The territory of the society may contain twenty -five thousand acres. The sum of one hundred and twenty thousand dollars -was paid to Rapp for this purchase, and for that consideration he also -left both his cattle, and a considerable flock of sheep behind. - -I went with the elder Doctor M'Namee, to the two new established -communities, one of which is called No. 2, or Macluria; the other lately -founded, No. 3. No. 2, lies two miles distant from New Harmony, at the -entrance of the forest, which will be cleared to make the land fit for -cultivation, and consists of nine log houses, first tenanted about four -weeks since, by about eighty persons. They are mostly backwoodsmen with -their families, who have separated themselves from the community No. 1, -in New Harmony, because _no religion_ is acknowledged there, and these -people wish to hold their prayer meetings undisturbed. The fields in the -neighbourhood of this community were of course very new. The community -No. 3, consisted of English country people, who formed a new -association, as the mixture, or perhaps the cosmopolitism of New Harmony -did not suit them; they left the colony planted by Mr. Birkbeck, at -English Prairie, about twenty miles hence, on the right bank of the -Wabash, after the unfortunate death of that gentleman,[II-20] and came -here. This is a proof that there are two evils that strike at the root -of the young societies; one is a sectarian or intolerant spirit; the -other, national prejudice. No. 3, is to be built on a very pretty -eminence, as yet there is only a frame building for three families -begun. - - [Footnote II-20: He was drowned in the Wabash, which he attempted - to swim over on horseback.] - -After we had returned to New Harmony, I went to the orchard on the Mount -Vernon road to walk, and beheld, to my great concern, what ravages the -frost had committed on the fruit blossoms, the vines must have been -completely killed. The orchards planted by Rapp and his society are -large and very handsome, containing mostly apple and peach trees, also -some pear and cherry trees. One of the gardens is exclusively devoted to -flowers, where, in Rapp's time, a labyrinth was constructed of beech -tree hedges and flowers, in the middle of which stood a pavilion, -covered with the tops of trees. - -I afterwards visited Mr. Neef, who is still full of the maxims and -principles of the French revolution; captivated with the system of -equality; talks of the emancipation of the negroes, and openly proclaims -himself an ATHEIST. Such people stand by themselves, and fortunately are -so very few in number, that they can do little or no injury. - -In the evening there was a general meeting in the large hall, it opened -with music. Then one of the members, an English architect of talent, who -came to the United States with Mr. Owen, whose confidence he appeared to -possess, and was here at the head of the arranging and architectural -department, read some extracts from the newspapers, upon which Mr. Owen -made a very good commentary; for example, upon the extension and -improvement of steam-engines, upon their adaptation to navigation, and -the advantages resulting therefrom. He lost himself, however, in his -theories, when he expatiated on an article which related to the -experiments which had been made with Perkins's steam-gun. During these -lectures, I made my observations on the much vaunted equality, as some -tatterdemalions stretched themselves on the platform close by Mr. Owen. -The better educated members kept themselves together, and took no notice -of the others. I remarked also, that the members belonging to the higher -class of society had put on the new costume, and made a party by -themselves. After the lecture the band played a march, each gentleman -took a lady, and marched with her round the room. Lastly, a cotillion -was danced: the ladies were then escorted home, and each retired to his -own quarters. - -I went early on the following morning, (Sunday,) to the assembly room. -The meeting was opened by music. After this Mr. Owen stated a -proposition, in the discussion of which he spoke of the advances made by -the society, and of the location of a new community at Valley Forge, in -Pennsylvania, and another in the state of New York. A classification of -the members was spoken of afterwards. They were separated into three -classes, first, of such as undertook to be security for the sums due Mr. -Owen and Mr. M'Clure, (that is, for the amount paid to Rapp, and so -expended as a pledge to be redeemed by the society,) and who, if -desirous to leave the society, must give six months previous notice; -secondly, of such as after a notice of fourteen days can depart; and, -lastly of those who are received only on trial. - -After this meeting, I paid Mr. M'Clure a visit, and received from him -the French papers. Mr. M'Clure is old, childless, was never married, and -intends, as is reported, to leave his property to the society. -Afterwards I went with Mr. Owen, and some ladies of the society, to walk -to the cut-off, as it is called, of the Wabash, where this river has -formed a new channel, and an island, which contains more than a hundred -acres of the best land; at present, however, inundated by water. There -is here a substantial grist-mill, erected by Rapp, which was said to -contain a very good set of machinery, but where we could not reach it on -account of the water. We went some distance along the river, and then -returned through the woods over the hills, which, as it was rather warm, -and we could discover no pathway, was very laborious to the ladies, who -were uncommonly alarmed at the different snakes we chanced to meet. Most -of the serpent species here are harmless, and the children catch them -for playthings. The poisonous snakes harbouring about here, are -rattlesnakes and copperheads; these, however, diminish rapidly in -numbers, for it is a common observation, that the poisonous serpents, -like the Indians and bears, fly before civilization. The rattlesnakes -have a powerful enemy in the numerous hogs, belonging to the settlers, -running about the woods, which are very well skilled in catching them by -the neck and devouring them. - -In the evening I paid visits to some ladies, and witnessed philosophy -and the love of equality put to the severest trial with one of them. She -is named Virginia, from Philadelphia; is very young and pretty, was -delicately brought up, and appears to have taken refuge here on account -of an unhappy attachment. While she was singing and playing very well on -the piano forte, she was told that the milking of the cows was her duty, -and that they were waiting unmilked. Almost in tears, she betook herself -to this servile employment, deprecating the new social system, and its -so much prized equality. - -After the cows were milked, in doing which the poor girl was trod on by -one, and daubed by another, I joined an aquatic party with the young -ladies and some young philosophers, in a very good boat upon the -inundated meadows of the Wabash. The evening was beautiful moonlight, -and the air very mild; the beautiful Miss Virginia forgot her _stable_ -sufferings, and regaled us with her sweet voice. Somewhat later we -collected together in the house No. 2, appointed for a school-house, -where all the young ladies and gentlemen of _quality_ assembled. In -spite of the equality so much recommended, this class of persons will -not mix with the common sort, and I believe that all the well brought up -members are disgusted, and will soon abandon the society. We amused -ourselves exceedingly during the whole remainder of the evening, dancing -cotillions, reels and waltzes, and with such animation as rendered it -quite lively. New figures had been introduced among the cotillions, -among which is one called the _new social system_. Several of the ladies -made objections to dancing on Sunday; we thought however, that in this -sanctuary of philosophy, such prejudices should be utterly discarded, -and our arguments, as well as the inclination of the ladies, gained the -victory. - -On the 17th April, a violent storm arose, which collected such clouds of -dust together that it was hardly possible to remain in the streets, and -I remained at home almost all day. I received a visit from a Mr. Von -Schott. This person, a Wurtemburger by birth, and brother of lady Von -Mareuil, in Washington, has settled himself seven or eight miles from -New Harmony, and lives a real hermit's life, without a servant or -assistant of any kind. He was formerly an officer in the Wurtemburg -cavalry, took his discharge, and went, from pure enthusiasm, and -overwrought fanaticism, to Greece, to defend their rights. As he there -discovered himself to be deceived in his anticipations, he returned to -his native country, and delivered himself up to religious superstition. -To extricate himself, in his opinion, from this world plunged in -wretchedness, he accompanied his sister to the United States, came to -Indiana, bought a piece of land from Rapp, by whom he asserted he was -imposed upon, and had difficulties to undergo, since he knew nothing of -agriculture. He lived in this manner in the midst of the forest with a -solitary horse. A cruel accident had befallen him the week before, his -stable with his trusty horse was burnt. He appeared to be a -well-informed man, and spoke well and rationally, only when he touched -upon religious topics, his mind appeared to be somewhat deranged. He -declared that he supported all possible privations with the greatest -patience, only he felt the want of intercourse with a friend in his -solitude. - -To-day two companies of the New Harmony militia paraded, with drums -beating, and exercised morning and afternoon. They were all in uniform, -well armed, and presented an imposing front. - -I was invited to dinner in the house, No. 4. Some gentlemen had been out -hunting, and had brought home a wild turkey, which must be consumed. -This turkey formed the whole dinner. Upon the whole I cannot complain -either of an overloaded stomach, or a head-ache from the wine affecting -it, in any way. The living was frugal in the strictest sense, and in -nowise pleased the elegant ladies with whom I dined. In the evening I -visited Mr. M'Clure and Madam Fretageot, living in the same house. She -is a Frenchwoman, who formerly kept a boarding-school in Philadelphia, -and is called _mother_ by all the young girls here. The handsomest and -most polished of the female world here, Miss Lucia Saistare and Miss -Virginia, were under her care. The cows were milked this evening when I -came in, and therefore we could hear their performance on the piano -forte, and their charming voices in peace and quiet. Later in the -evening we went to the kitchen of No. 3, where there was a ball. The -young ladies of the better class kept themselves in a corner under Madam -Fretageot's protection, and formed a little aristocratical club. To -prevent all possible partialities, the gentlemen as well as the ladies, -drew numbers for the cotillions, and thus apportioned them equitably. -Our young ladies turned up their noses apart at the democratic dancers, -who often in this way fell to their lot. Although every one was pleased -upon the whole, yet they separated at ten o'clock, as it is necessary to -rise early here. I accompanied Madam Fretageot and her two pupils home, -and passed some time in conversation with Mr. M'Clure on his travels in -Europe, which were undertaken with mineralogical views. The architect, -Mr. Whitwell, besides showed me to-day the plan of this establishment. -I admired particularly the judicious and economical arrangements for -warming and ventilating the buildings, as well as the kitchens and -laundries. It would indeed be a desirable thing could a building on this -plan once be completed, and Mr. Owen hopes that the whole of New Harmony -will thus be arranged. - -On the following day I received a visit from one of the German patriots -who had entered the society, of the name of Schmidt, who wished to have -been considered as first lieutenant in the Prussian artillery, at -Erfurt. He appeared to have engaged in one of the political conspiracies -there, and to have deserted. Mr. Owen brought him from England last -autumn as a servant. He was now a member of the society, and had charge -of the cattle. His fine visions of freedom seemed to be very much -lowered, for he presented himself to me, and his father to Mr. Huygens, -to be employed as servants. - -Towards evening, an Englishman, a friend of Mr. Owen, Mr. Applegarth, -arrived, who had presided over the school in New Lanark, and was to -organize one here in all probability. After dinner I went to walk with -him in the vineyard and woods. We conversed much concerning the new -system, and the consequences which he had reason to expect would result, -&c. and we discovered amongst other things, that Mr. Owen must have -conceived the rough features of his general system from considering -forced services or statutory labour; for the labour imposed upon persons -for which they receive no compensation, would apply and operate much -more upon them for their lodging, clothing, food, the education and care -of their children, &c. so that they would consider their labour in the -light of a corvee. We observed several labourers employed in loading -bricks upon a cart, and they performed this so tedious and disagreeable -task, as a statutory labour imposed on them by circumstances, and this -observation led us to the above reflection. I afterwards visited Mr. -M'Clure, and entertained myself for an hour with the instructive -conversation of this interesting old gentleman. Madam Fretageot, who -appears to have considerable influence over Mr. M'Clure, took an -animated share in our discourse. In the evening there was a ball in the -large assembly room, at which most of the members were present. It -lasted only until ten o'clock, in dancing cotillions, and closed with a -grand promenade, as before described. There was a particular place -marked off by benches for the children to dance in, in the centre of the -hall, where they could gambol about without running between the legs of -the grown persons. - -On the 19th of April, a steam-boat came down the Wabash, bound for -Louisville on the Ohio. It stopt opposite Harmony, and sent a boat -through the overflow of water to receive passengers. I was at first -disposed to embrace the opportunity of leaving this place, but as I -heard that the boat was none of the best, I determined rather to remain -and go by land to Mount Vernon, to wait for a better steam-boat there. -We took a walk to the community, No. 3. The work on the house had made -but little progress; we found but one workman there, and he was sleeping -quite at his ease. This circumstance recalled the observation before -mentioned, concerning gratis-labour, to my mind. We advanced beyond into -the woods, commencing behind No. 3: there was still little verdure to be -seen. - -On the succeeding day, I intended to leave New Harmony early; but as it -was impossible to procure a carriage, I was obliged to content myself. -I walked to the community No. 2, or Macluria, and farther into the -woods. They were employed in hewing down trees to build log houses. The -wood used in the brick and frame houses here is of the tulip tree, which -is abundant, worked easily, and lasts long. After dinner I walked with -Mr. Owen and Madam Fretageot, to community No. 3. There a new vegetable -garden was opened; farther on they were employed in preparing a field in -which Indian corn was to be sown. This answers the best purpose here, -as the soil is too rich for wheat; the stalks grow too long, the heads -contain too few grains, and the stalks on account of their length soon -break down, so that the crop is not very productive. The chief complaint -here is on account of the too great luxuriancy of the soil. The trees -are all very large, shoot up quickly to a great height, but have so few, -and such weak roots, that they are easily prostrated by a violent storm; -they also rot very easily, and I met with a great number of hollow -trees, in proportion. I saw them sow maize or Indian corn, for the first -time. There were furrows drawn diagonally across the field with the -plough, each at a distance of two feet from the other; then other -furrows at the same distance apart, at right angles with the first. -A person goes behind the plough with a bag of corn, and in each crossing -of the furrows he drops six grains. Another person with a shovel -follows, and covers these grains with earth. When the young plants are -half a foot high, they are ploughed between and the earth thrown up on -both sides of the plants; and when they are two feet high this operation -is repeated, to give them more firmness and to destroy the weeds. There -is a want of experienced farmers here; the furrows were badly made, and -the whole was attended to rather too much _en amateur_. - -After we returned to Madam Fretageot's, Mr. Owen showed me two -interesting objects of his invention; one of them consisted of cubes of -different sizes, representing the different classes of the British -population in the year 1811, and showed what a powerful burden rested on -the labouring class, and how desirable an equal division of property -would be in that kingdom. The other was a plate, according to which, as -Mr. Owen asserted, each child could be shown his capabilities, and upon -which, after a mature self-examination, he can himself discover what -progress he has made. The plate has this superscription: scale of human -faculties and qualities at birth. It has ten scales with the following -titles: from the left to the right, self-attachment; affections; -judgment; imagination; memory; reflection; perception; excitability; -courage; strength. Each scale is divided into one hundred parts, which -are marked from five to five. A slide that can be moved up or down, -shows the measure of the qualities therein specified each one possesses, -or believes himself to possess. - -I add but a few remarks more. Mr. Owen considers it as an absurdity to -promise never-ending love on marriage. For this reason he has introduced -the civil contract of marriage, after the manner of the Quakers, and the -French laws into his community, and declares that the bond of matrimony -is in no way indissoluble. The children indeed, cause no impediment in -case of a separation, for they belong to the community from their second -year, and are all brought up together. - -Mr. M'Clure has shown himself a great adherent of the Pestalozzian -system of education. He had cultivated Pestalozzi's acquaintance while -upon his travels, and upon this recommendation brought Mr. Neef with him -to Philadelphia, to carry this system into operation. At first it -appeared to succeed perfectly, soon however, Mr. Neef found so many -opposers, apparently on account of his anti-religious principles, that -he gave up the business, and settled himself on a farm in the woods of -Kentucky. He had just abandoned the farm to take the head of a -boarding-school, which Mr. M'Clure intended to establish in New Harmony. -Mr. Jennings, formerly mentioned, was likewise to co-operate in this -school; his reserved and haughty character was ill suited for such a -situation, and Messrs. Owen and M'Clure willingly consented to his -withdrawing, as he would have done the boarding-school more injury, from -the bad reputation in which he stood, than he could have assisted it by -his acquirements. An Englishman by birth, he was brought up for a -military life; this he had forsaken to devote himself to clerical -pursuits, had arrived in the United States as a Universalist preacher, -and had been received with much attention in that capacity in -Cincinnati, till he abandoned himself with enthusiasm to the _new social -system_, and made himself openly and publicly known as an -ATHEIST.[II-21] - - [Footnote II-21: [He is at this time advertising a boarding-school - in the Western country, on his own account, which is to be under - his immediate superintendence!]--TRANS.] - -I passed the evening with the amiable Mr. M'Clure, and Madam Fretageot, -and became acquainted through them, with a French artist, Mons. Lesueur, -calling himself uncle of Miss Virginia, as also a Dutch physician from -Herzogenbusch, Dr. Troost, an eminent naturalist. Both are members of -the community, and have just arrived from a scientific pedestrian tour -to Illinois and the southern part of Missouri, where they have examined -the iron, and particularly the lead-mine works, as well as the -peculiarities of the different mountains. Mr. Lesueur has besides -discovered several species of fish, as yet undescribed. He was there too -early in the season to catch many snakes. Both gentlemen had together -collected thirteen chests of natural curiosities, which are expected -here immediately. Mr. Lesueur accompanied the naturalist Perron, as -draftsman in his tour to New South Wales, under Captain Baudin, and -possessed all the illuminated designs of the animals which were -discovered for the first time on this voyage, upon vellum. This -collection is unique of its kind, either as regards the interest of the -objects represented, or in respect to their execution; and I account -myself fortunate to have seen them through Mr. Lesueur's politeness. He -showed me also the sketches he made while on his last pedestrian tour, -as well as those during the voyage of several members of the society to -Mount Vernon, down the Ohio from Pittsburgh. On this voyage, the society -had many difficulties to contend with, and were obliged often to cut a -path for the boat through the ice. The sketches exhibit the originality -of talent of the artist. He had come with Mr. M'Clure in 1815, from -France to Philadelphia, where he devoted himself to the arts and -sciences. Whether he will remain long in this society or not, I cannot -venture to decide.[II-22] - - [Footnote II-22: [He has left it some time since, as well as Dr. - Troost.]--TRANS.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - _Travels to Louisville, and Stay in that City._ - - -On the 21st of April, we left New Harmony, after taking a cordial leave -of Mr. Owen, and availed ourselves of the mail stage, which leaves here -once a week for Mount Vernon, to make this passage. Besides our company, -there was only a single traveller in the stage, a Mr. Riley, from -Cincinnati, and a native of Ireland. One mile from New Harmony, we were -forced to alight from the carriage, as the horses would not draw us up a -steep hill. One-half mile farther, we got out again on account of a -similar dilemma, and we had hardly done so, when it was overturned by -the unskilfulness of the driver. We unloaded our baggage, left it under -the care of Boettner, my servant, permitted the driver to his chagrin and -mortification to go on alone, and returned back on foot to New Harmony, -to look about for another method of conveyance. I paid a visit to -Messrs. M'Clure, Lesueur, &c. They told me that about ten o'clock a cart -under the direction of a Mr. Johnson would leave this place for Mount -Vernon, in which our baggage would find a place. As to our own -conveyance, I saw plainly that it would be the wiser plan to confide -mine to my own trustworthy legs. I assumed therefore the pilgrim's -staff, left my slower moving travelling companions something behind, and -accomplished the sixteen miles to Mount Vernon, over a very hilly road, -in five hours. - -I did not pass through Springfield, saw only two solitary log-houses, -and encountered but few people. The herbage had advanced very much -during a week; many trees were in blossom, and the young green leaves, -particularly those of the tulip trees, produced a very pleasing effect. -I passed by many sugar-maples, which were perforated, to draw the sugar -juice from them. When the trees are completely in leaf, the natural -scenery of these forests, of which the ground is very hilly, must be -extremely beautiful, especially to the eyes of a northern European, who -is not accustomed to the grandeur of the colossal sycamores, tulip trees -and maples. In noticing these trees, I may add the remark that Mr. Rapp -had planted the Lombardy poplar in the streets of New Harmony; that -these poplars had succeeded very well at first, but when their roots -struck a stratum of reddish sand lying under the good fertile soil, they -died. Mr. Rapp then substituted mulberry trees, which have thriven well, -and Mr. Owen has it in design, to make an experiment in raising -silk-worms. - -I reached Mount Vernon, tolerably fatigued, about three o'clock, P. M. -I met Dr. Clark again. Mr. Huygens and Mr. Riley made their appearance -after some time. Towards evening the expected cart arrived, but without -Boettner and my baggage. The carter said in his own excuse, that they had -given him so much freight in New Harmony, that his horses could hardly -draw it, and that there was no room left for my effects. After having -made a survey of the localities in person, I was obliged to admit the -cogency of his reasons, in spite of my vexation; and of course to find a -remedy in patience. - -In this state of affairs, I solaced myself with Major Dunn's society. -He and his countryman Riley, belonged to the better class of Irish, and -possessed a good deal of shrewdness, so that the time passed very -pleasantly. In the evening we went to the court-house, to hear a -Presbyterian preacher, travelling from the eastern states. He was quite -a young man, of the name of Stewart, whom I had met in New Harmony; -he had, however, only looked about, without announcing himself as a -clergyman, probably from his knowing the anti-religious opinions -prevailing there. In the little new settled places of the western -states, they do not build churches before houses, as is the practice in -the north-eastern section, but a dwelling and clearing of land is their -first object. Nevertheless, divine service is not lacking; for many -clergymen, who are not located, seek after a situation; in so doing are -accustomed to preach, where they can be heard. In most of the public -houses, and ferry-boats, no pay is required from these clergymen, and -thus they can take pretty long journies, the descriptions of which are -often published, at a very cheap rate. From the want of a church in -Mount Vernon, the meeting was held in the court-house. It was a -temporary log-house, which formed but one room. The chimney fire, and -two tallow candles formed the whole illumination of it, and the seats -were constructed of some blocks and boards, upon which upwards of twenty -people sat. The singing was conducted by a couple of old folks, with -rather discordant voices. The preacher then rose, and delivered us a -sermon. I could not follow his discourse well, and was very much -fatigued by my day's walk. In his prayer, however, the minister alluded -to those who despise the word of the Lord, and prayed for their -conviction and conversion. This hint was evidently aimed at the -community in New Harmony and the new social system. In the sermon there -was no such allusion. Probably the discourse was one of those, which he -knew by heart; which he delivered in various places, and admitted of no -interpolations. The service lasted till ten o'clock at night. - -Unluckily for me, my port-folio also remained behind among my other -baggage. I suffered therefore, the whole forenoon of the next day the -most excessive tedium, and was obliged to remain in noble idleness. -I went to walk in the woods, gaped about at the pretty flowers, and the -amazing variety of butterflies; came back, seated myself in Mr. Dunn's -store, and viewed the steam-boats going down the river. At length in the -afternoon, Boettner arrived, with my baggage in a one-horse cart, -splashed all over with mud, as he had been obliged to lead the restive -horse all the way by the bridle. The poor fellow bivouacked in the woods -yesterday, from one o'clock in the morning till four in the evening, -when by chance the shepherds of New Harmony passed by, and gave Mr. Owen -an account of Boettner's situation, upon which old Dr. M'Namee had come -out with his one-horse vehicle, and brought back the baggage and its -guard. By Mr. Owen's kindness, the cart was on this day sent on, with my -effects. - -Now my earnest desire was to get away as quickly as possible. To be -sure, the splendid view of the Ohio and its banks by the light of the -moon, regaled me in the evening; but the residence in this place was too -inhospitable and uninteresting; besides I suffered the whole afternoon -and evening with tooth-ache, and symptoms of fever. But how were we to -get away? During the night a steam-boat passed, going up the river, but -she kept to the left bank where the deepest water was, and took no -notice of Mount Vernon. About nine o'clock on the 23d of April, another -steam-boat, the General Wayne, came up, bound in the same direction. -A flag was hoisted, to give notice that passengers wished to come on -board, we waved our handkerchiefs, but the vessel did not regard us, and -passed on. To kill time, I went with Mr. Riley to Major Dunn's store, -where we told stories about steam-boats to keep off ennui as well as we -could, but in vain. In the evening I heard much concerning Rapp's -society, from a German mechanic, who had belonged to it, and who had -left it as he said, because Rapp refused to let him have the inheritance -of his father-in-law. We heard psalmody in the court-house, for the -religious inhabitants of the place, mostly methodists, hold Sunday -evening prayer meetings without a clergyman. The day was upon the whole -quite warm, and towards evening we had to contend with numbers of -mosquetoes. To prevent in some measure their coming from the woods, -where they harboured, fires were kindled about the place, and likewise -before the houses. The situation here must be an unhealthy one, for not -only was I annoyed during the night with head-ache and fever, but -Messrs. Huygens, Riley, and Johnson, complained of being unwell. With -the exception of some miserable, filthy lodgings in Canada, I do not -recollect in any part of the United States, even among the Creek -Indians, to have found myself so wretchedly situated in every respect, -as here. The food, furnished in small quantity as it was, was hardly fit -to be eaten; the only beverage was water, which it was necessary to mix -with ordinary whiskey; the beds very bad; and the whole house in a state -of the most revolting filthiness. - -On the morning of the 24th of April, came the hour of our deliverance. -The steam-boat General Neville came up the river after seven o'clock. -We dispatched a boat to tell them that several _cabin passengers_ waited -for them in Mount Vernon. Immediately the vessel steered for our shore, -and took us in. - -We were extremely rejoiced at our escape from this disagreeable place. -The boat had come from St. Louis, and was bound for Louisville. She was -but small, containing sixteen births in her cabin, and had a -high-pressure engine. Luckily, however, we found but three cabin -passengers on board. We started immediately, and the banks of the river -here and there low and subject to inundation, gratified us very much by -the fresh green of the trees. We passed by some considerable islands. -One of them, Diamond Island, is about three miles and a half long and -above a mile broad, and must contain several thousand acres of excellent -land. Afterwards we saw upon the left bank, here pretty high, the little -town of Henderson, in Kentucky. Eleven miles and a half higher, we saw -Evansville upon an eminence on the right shore, still an inconsiderable -place, but busy; it being the principal place in the county of -Vandeburg, in the state of Indiana, lying in the neighbourhood of a body -of fertile land, and is a convenient landing place for emigrants, who go -to the Wabash country. Upon the same shore are seen several dwellings -upon the fresh turf, shaded by high green trees. Close below Evansville, -a small river called Big Pigeon creek falls into the Ohio. In its mouth -we saw several flat boats, with apparatus similar to pile-driving -machines. These vessels belong to a contractor, who has entered into an -engagement with the government, to make the Ohio free and clear of the -snags and sawyers lying in its current. This work was discharged in a -negligent manner, and the officer to whom the superintendence was -committed, is censured for having suffered himself to be imposed upon. -I remembered having seen models in the patent-office at Washington, of -machines which were intended to effect this purpose. Seven miles and a -half higher up, Green river unites itself to the Ohio on the left bank. -Of this the Western Navigator says: "that it is a considerable river in -Kentucky, navigable about two hundred miles, and rises in Lincoln -county." On board our boat we did not find ourselves comfortable, either -in respect to lodging, or the table. All was small and confined, and in -the evening we were much annoyed by the mosquetoes. My mosqueto bar, -purchased in New Orleans, assisted me very much as a defence during the -night. - -During the night, we stopped several times to take in wood, and once to -repair the engine. An overhanging tree, which we approached too nearly, -gave us a powerful blow, and did much damage to the upper part of the -vessel. I had no state room, and therefore obtained no sleep during the -constant uproar. The banks became constantly higher, and more -picturesque in their appearance. They were frequently rocky: in several -rocks we observed cavities, which with the houses built in front of -them, produced a pleasing effect. Upon the right bank, was a little -place called Troy; several settlements, composed of frame houses, -instead of logs. Towards evening we saw upon the left bank, the mouth of -a little stream, Sinking creek. Upon the right shore of this creek, is a -group of houses called Rome, and on the left a little place, named -Stevensport; both places are united by a wooden bridge, resting upon one -high pier. I spent nearly the whole day on deck, to regale myself with -the beautiful landscapes surrounding us. Between several turns of the -river the country is so shut in, that one would suppose himself sailing -on a lake. The agreeable sensations caused by the beautiful country, and -the mild spring temperature which surrounded me, upon the whole -compensated for many of our privations. We indeed were in want of every -thing but absolute necessaries. I met an acquaintance indeed; one of our -fellow travellers who had formerly been a clerk of the English North -West Company, and had remained three years at the posts of the company -in the Rocky Mountains, and on the Columbia river; but this person had -acquired so many of the habits of the savages, that his company was in -no wise an acquisition. I was also, as well as all the other gentlemen -who had been in that unlucky Mount Vernon, tormented with constant pains -in the limbs, and our coarse food was so bad, that it was hardly -possible to consume it. There was neither wine nor beer on board, nor -any acids, so that water and whiskey, were the beverages to which we -were reduced. For many years I had never undergone such gastronomic -privations, as in the western parts of America. The Ohio appears to -contain many good and well tasted fish, but it seems that the people -here prefer the eternal hog meat, and that mostly salted, to every thing -else, for until now I had seen no fish in these regions, at least none -procured for eating. In the night, we advanced on our voyage without -stop or accident. - -On the morning of the 26th of April, we saw the mouth of Salt river, -which, as the Western Navigator says, is a considerable river of -Kentucky, about one hundred and thirty yards wide at its mouth, and -navigable one hundred and fifty miles. Twenty miles above this, the -little town of New Albany lies on the right bank, which promises to be a -flourishing place. It has a factory of steam-engines, which finds good -employment here. On the bank, a newly-built steam-boat was lying, -waiting for her engine. These engines must be built very strong, -proportionably too powerful for the tonnage of the vessel, on account of -the stiffness of the current. They of consequence suffer a violent shock -from it, and can only be used about three years. An island in the river -divides it into two narrow channels, in which there are rapid currents. -Above the island is the foot of the Falls of Ohio. At the present high -stage of water, the descent does not strike the eye, and vessels are -able to pass up or down the river over the falls. Ours, which went no -farther up, stopped on the left bank at Shippingport, opposite New -Albany, two miles below Louisville. - -Shippingport, is an insignificant place, which is supported by the -lading and unlading of vessels. We found several hackney coaches, which -carried us and our baggage by land to Louisville, where we took up our -abode in a large and respectable inn, called Washington Hall, kept by a -Mr. Allen. The Western Navigator has the following remarks upon this -neighbourhood: "The rapids of the Ohio are, in a natural as well as a -political regard, a point well deserving of attention. In low states of -the water, they are the termination of navigation by steam-boats, and -the last place in the descent of the Ohio, where any considerable -impediment occurs in its course. A number of infant towns have already -sprung up on both shores of the Ohio, in the neighbourhood of this -point, Jefferson, Clarksburg, and New Albany, in Indiana; Louisville, -Shippingport, and Portland, in Kentucky. Among these is Louisville, the -principal, with a population of three thousand souls; while new Albany -contains about one thousand, Shippingport six hundred, and -Jeffersonville five hundred inhabitants; all these are thriving -situations. Inclusive of the towns and neighbourhood, there is a -population of ten thousand people in this vicinity. In the year 1810, -Louisville contained only thirteen hundred and fifty-seven inhabitants; -it exceeds beyond a doubt its present estimate of five thousand, and -will still increase. It is the seat of justice for Jefferson county, -Kentucky, contains a prison, court-house, and the other essential -buildings, besides a theatre, three banks, of which one is a branch of -the United States Bank, a market, several places of worship, and three -printing-offices. Louisville lies in 38 deg. 18' north latitude, and 5 deg. 42' -west longitude from Washington." - -Louisville, at least the main street of it, running parallel with the -Ohio, has a good appearance. This street is rather broad, paved, and -provided with foot-walks; it contains brick buildings and several -considerable stores. In our hotel, I renewed my acquaintance with Major -Davenport, of the sixth regiment of infantry, whom, together with his -lady, I had known in Washington, at General Brown's, and who is here on -recruiting duty. It fell out luckily enough, that the post-master here, -Mr. Gray, had just married his daughter, and in compliment to her gave a -splendid party, to which I received an invitation. I repaired to it with -Major Davenport, and found an extremely numerous, and, contrary to my -expectations, even an elegant society. It was a real English rout, so -full that many of the guests were obliged to remain on the steps. I was -introduced to most of the ladies and gentlemen, was forced to talk a -good deal, and found myself very much annoyed by the heat prevailing in -the rooms. About eleven o'clock, I reached home heartily fatigued. - -In former years, when the state of Kentucky was an integral part of -Virginia, Louisville consisted of a stockade, built as a protection -against the hostile Indian tribes, who then still inhabited the banks of -the Ohio. It received its name as a mark of respect for the unfortunate -King, Louis XVI. This is attributable to the Canadian traders, who -established this post to secure their trade. By degrees white settlers -joined them, and thus the town commenced, which at first suffered much -from the Indians. It is five hundred and eighty miles distant from -Pittsburgh, one hundred and thirty-one from Cincinnati, and thirteen -hundred and forty-nine from New Orleans. I took a walk with Major -Davenport through the town, and to the new canal. It consists of three -streets running parallel with the Ohio, of which only the first or front -one is built out completely and paved; and of several cross streets -which cut the former at right angles. It has several churches, tolerably -well built; a new one was began, but on rather too large a scale. The -pious funds were exhausted; therefore a lodge of freemasons undertook -the finishing of this grand house, and kept it for their own use. The -canal is destined to light vessels over the Ohio, when they cannot pass -the falls on account of low water, and are obliged to discharge their -cargo. It is apprehended however, that the money invested in the canal -will not yield a great interest, as the time of service, for which the -canal is required does not extend beyond three months. During six months -of the year the Ohio is so low, that not a solitary boat can navigate -it, and when it rises, it becomes so high, that the rocks which produce -the rapids are covered, so that vessels can go up and down without -danger. The labour on the canal has been commenced about six weeks. The -banks in the neighbourhood of the canal are high, and present a -beautiful prospect over the rapids, and the adjacent region, which is -well cultivated and bounded by woody hills. - -A second walk with Major Davenport, was directed to the north side of -the town, where several respectable country houses are situated, all -built of brick; and then to a handsome wood, through which a causeway -runs, which is used by the inhabitants as a pleasure walk. The wood -contains very handsome beech trees, sugar maples, sycamores and locust -trees, also different species of nut-bearing trees. - -The state of Kentucky is involved at this period in considerable -confusion. A son of Governor Desha, was arrested on a charge of having -robbed and murdered a traveller the year before; was tried and found -guilty by two different juries. For the purpose of screening his son, -as was reported, the governor had changed the whole court, and filled it -anew with his own creatures. There was a prodigious excitement through -the state at this arbitrary stroke of authority. It was torn by parties; -I was assured that political struggles, often terminating in sanguinary -conflicts, were the order of the day; nay, that this division had -already given occasion to several assassinations. It is said to be -almost as dangerous to speak upon the political relations of the state, -as to converse upon religion in Spain. - -A merchant from Lexington, Mr. Wenzel, a native of Bavaria, made me -acquainted with an architect, Barret, from New York, who has the -superintendence over the canal that is going forward. I received some -more particular intelligence from this person concerning the work. The -expense was estimated at three hundred and seventy-seven thousand -dollars. The labour on it began this March, and is to be concluded in -the month of November of the following year. The length of the canal -amounts to nearly two miles. It commences below Louisville in a small -bay, goes behind Shippingport, and joins the Ohio between that place and -Portland. Its descent was reckoned at twenty-four feet. Three locks, -each at a distance of one hundred and ninety feet from each other, will -be located not far from the mouth near Shippingport, and the difference -of level in each will be eight feet. The breadth of the locks was fixed -at fifty feet, to admit of the passage of the broadest steam-boat, on -which account also the interval from one lock to the other was made one -hundred and ninety feet. Above the highest lock on both sides of the -canal, dry docks will be constructed for steam-boats to repair in. The -sides of the canal are only walled with masonry between the locks. The -banks above are in a terrace form. One advantage this canal has, is that -the bottom consists of rock; the depth to which it is hewed or blown -out, must be throughout fifty feet wide. The rock, however, which is -broke out here is a brittle limestone, which is not fit for water -masonry, and of course does not answer for locks. The rock employed for -this work is a species of blue stone, brought out of the state of -Indiana, and a bulk of sixteen square feet, four feet deep, costs four -dollars delivered at the canal. To dig this canal out, twenty-seven feet -of yellow clay at its thickest part, then seven feet thick of yellow -sand; from here fifteen feet thick of blue clay, must be passed through -before you come to the rock, where there are ten feet thickness still to -be dug away. As for the lock gates, they were to be made only of timber, -and none of the improvements introduced in England, either the -elliptical form of the gates, or the iron frames were to be employed. -Moreover, I observed from the profile of the work, the incredible height -of the river, which often raises itself fifty feet over places fordable -in the last of summer. - -Upon the following day I took a walk with Dr. Croghan and Major -Davenport, down the canal to Shippingport, and witnessed the labour in -removing the earth for the canal. The soil intended to be dug out, was -first ploughed by a heavy plough, drawn by six oxen. Afterwards a sort -of scoop drawn by two horses was filled with earth, (and it contained -three times as much as an ordinary wheel-barrow,) it was then carried up -the slope, where it was deposited, and the scoop was brought back to be -filled anew. In this manner much time and manual labour was saved. - -Several steam-boats lie at Shippingport, among them was the General -Wayne, which had arrived at New Orleans in five days voyage from this -place; had stopt there five days on account of unloading, and reloading, -and had made her return trip from New Orleans to Louisville in ten days; -consequently had moved against the stream one hundred and thirty-five -miles daily. Several hackney coaches waited here from Louisville, -expecting the arrival of the steam-boat George Washington, which was -looked for every minute. The country is highly romantic. We found -ourselves on an eminence upon the bank, where a large substantial -warehouse had been built jutting over the river. Before us was the foot -of the falls; opposite an island overgrown with wood, to the right the -falls, and Louisville in the back ground; to the left on the other -shore, New Albany, and all around in the rear, a green forest of the -finest trees. - -On our return we passed by a large deserted brick building. It is called -the Hope Distillery, and was established by a company of speculators to -do business on a large scale. After the company had invested about -seventy thousand dollars, several of the stockholders stopped payment. -One of them procured the whole at auction for three thousand dollars, -and would now let any one have it for less. In the year 1817, the desire -to buy land and build upon it, had risen to a mania in this place. Dr. -Croghan showed me a lot of ground, which he had then purchased for two -thousand dollars, and for which, at present, no one would hardly offer -him seven hundred. He has hired a German gardener, who has laid out a -very pretty vegetable garden on this spot, which will yield considerable -profit by his industrious management. - -Dr. Ferguson, a physician here, carried us to the hospital. This edifice -lies insulated upon a small eminence. The building was commenced several -years ago, and is not yet finished. The state of Kentucky gave the -ground as a donation, and bears a part of the expenses of building. As -the establishment is principally used for the reception of sick seamen, -congress has given the hospital a revenue from the custom-house in New -Orleans. The hospital consists of a basement story, three stories above, -and wings, which each have a basement and two stories. In the basement -of the centre building, are the kitchen, wash-house, the store-rooms, -&c., and in the upper story, the chamber for the meeting of the -directors, the apothecary's room, the steward's dwelling, and the state -rooms for patients paying board and lodging. In the third story a -theatre for surgical operations will be arranged. In the wings are roomy -and well aired apartments for the white patients, and in the basement, -those for the negroes and coloured persons. Slavery is still permitted -in Kentucky. There has been until now only one apartment habitable, -in which twelve patients are lying. These have cleanly beds, but only -wooden bedsteads. When the building is thoroughly finished, it will -contain at least one hundred and fifty persons with comfort. Such an -establishment is extremely necessary for such a place as Louisville, -which is very unhealthy in summer. - -I made with Major Davenport an excursion into the country, to the very -respectable country-seat, Locust Grove, six miles from Louisville, -belonging to Dr. Croghan and a younger brother, and inherited from their -father. Close by the town we crossed a small stream, which falls here -into the Ohio, and is called Bear Grass creek. This serves the keel and -flat boats as a very safe harbour. From the bridge over this, the road -goes several miles through a handsome wood on the banks of the Ohio, -past country-seats, and well cultivated fields, behind which fine -looking hills arose. The wood consisted mostly of sycamores. We observed -five that sprung from one root; two are quite common. The trees are very -thick. We measured the bulk of the thickest sycamore, and found it -twenty-seven feet four inches in circumference. I never recollect to -have seen such a mammoth tree. Locust Grove itself lies about a mile -from the river, and is, as appears from its name, surrounded by those -trees. We found here the doctor, his brother William Croghan, with his -young wife, a native of Pittsburgh, and a fat, lovely little boy, who -strikingly reminded me of my sons. - -At a party in the house of Mr. Use, a rich merchant and president of the -branch of the United States Bank here, we met a very numerous and -splendid society. Cotillions and reels were danced to the music of a -single violin, and every thing went off pleasantly. We remained till -midnight, and the company were still keeping up the dance, when we left -them. - -Dr. Ferguson was very much occupied in vaccination. The natural -small-pox had made its appearance within a few days, under a very -malignant form, in the town. On this account every one had their -children vaccinated as speedily as possible; even those who were -prejudiced against vaccination. In the evening, I went with Major and -Mrs. Davenport to the house of Mrs. Wilson, to tea, whose daughter, -fifteen years of age, had been married above a month. The young females -marry much too early here, quite as early as in Louisiana. - -There were two pieces represented at the theatre for the benefit of a -Mrs. Drake; Man and Wife, a favourite English drama, and a farce called -Three Weeks after Marriage. We were present on this occasion. The -proscenium is very small; a confined pit, a single row of boxes, and a -gallery. It was well filled; as Mrs. Drake was very much a favourite -with the ladies here, all the boxes were full of the fashionables of the -place. The dramatic corps was very ordinary with the exception of Mrs. -Drake. Most of the actors were dressed very badly, had not committed -their parts, and played in a vulgar style. One actor was so intoxicated, -that he was hardly able to keep his legs. - -I was furthermore witness to a revolting spectacle in Louisville, from -which I escaped as quick as I was able. A pregnant mulatto woman was -offered for sale at public auction, with her two children. The woman -stood with her children on a bench at a coffee-house; the auctioneer -standing by her side, indulged himself in brutal jests upon her thriving -condition, and sold her for four hundred dollars! - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - _Cincinnati, interior of the State of Ohio.-- Pittsburgh, in - Pennsylvania._ - - -On the 30th of April I was very agreeably surprised by a visit from -Colonel Wool, returning from an inspection on the Red river, the -Arkansas, and New Orleans: he had ascended the stream in the steam-boat -Washington, and arrived in the night at Shippingport. Being on his -return to Washington, he took his passage on board the steam-boat -Atlanta, for Pittsburgh. As this boat stopped at Cincinnati, whither it -was my intention to go, I immediately concluded upon continuing my -journey in the same boat, to enjoy as long as possible the society of so -estimable a friend. We went on board between ten and eleven. The Atlanta -was crowded with passengers, but we were fixed very comfortably and -neatly. The greater part of the passengers were from Natchez, who came -with the intention of spending the summer in the healthier northern -states. Among them was Major Chotard, who was going with his family to -New York, whence he intended to embark for France; and Abbe Martial, -a Frenchman, who had kept a boarding-school in New Orleans for a long -time, and was at that time employed by the Bishop of Kentucky in -Bairdstown, on whose account he was to travel in France and Italy. - -Our trip up the river was very pleasant. The weather was fine; the -shores of the Ohio became more and more interesting the higher we -ascended the stream. In the afternoon, we perceived on the right shore -the little town of Madison, situated on an eminence. It appeared to be -in a flourishing condition, and contained many brick houses; a multitude -of well-dressed persons were standing on the shore. Towards evening we -passed the mouth of the Kentucky river on the left shore. The Kentucky -river, according to the Western Navigator, is a beautiful river in -Kentucky. It originates in the Cumberland mountains, is two hundred -miles in length, one hundred and fifty of which are navigable. Its mouth -is one hundred and sixty yards broad, and proves to be an excellent -harbour for boats. The town occupies a very pretty situation; above its -mouth, and farther down lies Prestonville. The flourishing town of -Frankfort, the seat of government, is situated about sixty miles from -the mouth of the river. The former is five hundred and twenty-four and a -half miles distant from Pittsburgh, fifty-seven and a half from -Cincinnati, and fifty-five and a half from Louisville. Shortly after -leaving Louisville, we were followed by another steam-boat called the -General Marion, towards evening it reached, and wanted to pass us; -a race took place, which discomposed us considerably, and became -dangerous to a high degree. The boilers, being soon over-heated, might -have burst and occasioned a great disaster; during this time we were so -close together, that the railing, as well as the roofs of the wheels -knocked against each other. The danger increased as night drew on, and -particularly so as there were a great number of ladies on board, who -were crying in a most piteous manner. One of them conducted herself most -distractedly; she fell into hysteric fits, wanted to throw herself in -the water on the opposite side of the boat, and could scarcely be -prevented by three strong men. The heating of the boilers of the General -Marion had been so violent, that they ran short of wood, and to their -great confusion, and our extreme satisfaction, they were not only left -behind, but were overtaken by the slow steam-boat Ohio: thus the Atlanta -obtained a brilliant victory. Ten miles above the mouth of the Kentucky -river on the right shore, is the little town of Vevay, built and -inhabited by Switzers. They planted vineyards, which it is said give -them a good revenue. I regretted very much that we passed them by night, -and thus were deprived of the view of Vevay. On the left shore is a -small village called Ghent, in honour of the treaty concluded in that -city, in Flanders. I regretted not to have been able to visit that -place, if only on account of the name. Without farther accident we went -on the whole night, and next morning found ourselves opposite to the -mouth of the Great Miami, which joins the Ohio from the right shore. -This stream forms the boundary between the states of Indiana and Ohio, -and the Western Navigator makes the following observation concerning it. -"The Great Miami is a considerable river, which takes its sources in -Allen, Logan, Shelby, Merion, and Drake counties. It runs southerly -through Miami and Montgomery counties, and receives in the last two -considerable rivers, on the left the Mad river, and on the right the -south-west fork. On entering Butler county the Miami takes a -south-westerly direction, and flows into the Ohio at the south-west -corner of this state, and the north-east one of Indiana. Its course is -one hundred and twenty miles. Its sources situated between 40 deg. and 41 deg. -lat. are in the vicinity of the Massassinaway, a branch of the Wabash, -the Auglaize and St. Mary's, which are branches of the Maumee and the -Sciota, its course is in general rapid, but without any considerable -falls, and runs through a large and fertile valley which is partly -submerged by high water. Near Dayton, about seventy-five miles from its -mouth, the Miami receives on the east side the Mad river; from this -place boats carrying three and four thousand barrels, may run into the -Ohio during high water. The trial of ascending Mad river is seldom made, -the stream being too rapid and there being a great many sand-banks and -dams. The Miami has a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during -forty miles." - -We found the shores of the Ohio well cultivated, with orchards and -Indian corn: we observed several very pretty country-seats. These shores -are mostly elevated, and at the distance of about a mile we could -perceive a chain of hills covered with woods, which made a fine -prospect. Towards ten o'clock in the morning we reached Cincinnati, four -hundred and forty-nine miles from Pittsburgh, one hundred and thirty-one -from Louisville, and fourteen hundred and eighty from New Orleans. It is -situated on the right shore of the Ohio, and built at the foot of a -hill, which is surrounded by a half circle of higher hills covered with -forests. This city presents a very fine aspect. The hills on the -opposite side likewise form a half circle, and in this manner the hill -on which Cincinnati is built, lies as it were in a basin. On the left -shore, the Licking river flows into the Ohio. This, says the Western -Navigator, is a considerable river in Kentucky, which, originating not -far from the sources of the Cumberland and running about two hundred -miles in a north-westerly direction, flows into the Ohio opposite -Cincinnati. The towns of Newport and Covington, the former immediately -above, and the latter below the mouth of Licking river, are beautifully -situated in Campbell county, Kentucky: Newport contains a military depot -of the United States. The shores near Cincinnati are rather steep, and -to render the loading and unloading of boats more convenient, they are -paved and provided with rings and chains of iron. - -Before we could land, the health officers came on board to seek -information respecting the health of the passengers, as great fears were -entertained in Cincinnati of the small-pox, which was raging in -Louisville. We took lodgings at Mack's, a good hotel, near the shore. -Shortly after our arrival, I took a walk in town with Colonel Wool and -Major Foster, of the sixth regiment, who came here to recruit. We -visited some bookstores. The town contains about fifteen thousand -inhabitants, and consists mostly of brick houses. Some of the streets -run parallel with the Ohio, and others form a right-angle with them, -which makes them very regular; they are wide, well-paved, and have -side-walks. Those streets which cross in the direction of the river, -ascend and lead to the top of the hill, from which there is a view -resembling a panorama. Here they were building a large Catholic -cathedral, which was commenced during the last year, and would probably -be finished the next: it will be an ornament to the city. The Bishop, -Mr. Fenwick, had been travelling for some years past in the Catholic -countries of Europe, and had collected considerable contributions for -the construction of this cathedral. The old cathedral, a modest wooden -building, stands yet in the rear of the new one; it is to be demolished -when the former is finished. Cincinnati was settled in the year 1788, -round an old fort, called Washington. The first settlers came from New -England. The settlement did not succeed until 1794, when General Wayne -subdued the Indians. In 1815, it contained six thousand five hundred, -in 1818, about nine thousand, and in 1826, about fifteen thousand. -Cincinnati is the most important city of the western states. There are -two Presbyterian, two Methodist, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one -Swedenborg, and one Quaker church, and the Catholic cathedral. There are -three markets, and several museums. We visited the principal one, called -the Western Museum, but did not meet with any thing new: several Indian -dresses, weapons, pipes, a human scalp, a dried human head from the -South Sea Islands, the head of an Egyptian mummy, manuscripts on papyrus -from the sarcophagus of the mummies, several ancient and modern coins, -the last consisting mostly of foreign gold coins, and some objects of -natural history; a handsome collection of birds, many of them European, -several quadrupeds, some minerals, as well as an indifferent collection -of butterflies. We also saw some oil paintings,[II-23] scarcely worth -mentioning, and finally some show-boxes. - - [Footnote II-23: These had been presented to Bishop Fenwick by - Cardinal Fesch, for his cathedral, and were only here, until they - could find their place in the Temple of God.] - -To my great regret, Colonel Wool left us this day, to continue his -journey up the river, on board the Atlanta. Having seen on the map of -the city of Cincinnati, the indication of some Indian mounds, I went in -search of them, but was unsuccessful, for the very good reason that the -hills had been demolished and in their place houses built. After this I -called on Bishop Fenwick, but he was not at home. I here met with a -clergyman who was a native of Hildesheim, his name was Rese, who was -educated in the Propaganda in Rome. This man showed me the old and new -cathedral. The former is built of wood, resembling a German village -church; in its interior the splendid episcopal seat is particularly -distinguished. The altar had but few ornaments with the exception of -four silver chandeliers which the Queen of Etruria gave to Bishop -Fenwick for his church, and a gilded tabernacle a gift from Pope Pius -VII. In the sacristy there were no ornaments, with the exception of two -gilded frames with relics. The new cathedral is a spacious and lofty -building: they were building the choir, in which an organ made in -Pittsburgh was to be placed. There was to be a large vault under the -altar, destined for the sepulture of the bishops and clergymen. The -church had not as yet any bells, with respect to these, the clergy -expected some contributions from Italy. The vicar-general of the bishop -was Abbe Hill,[II-24] he had formerly been a captain in the British -service, and having become a Catholic while in Italy, entered the -Dominican order. He was said to be a good orator. - - [Footnote II-24: [Brother of Lord Hill.]--TRANS.] - -Deer creek runs into the Ohio above the town--two wooden bridges lead -over it. This brook was very inconsiderable, and could be leaped over, -but it was evident from its steep shores that it swelled sometimes to a -great height. On the other side of this creek is the highest hill in the -vicinity. From its summit there is a delightful prospect over the city -and valley, the centre of which it occupies. This view, _even_ in -Europe, would be considered as very handsome. I found on the top a great -quantity of reddish limestone with shells, an evident proof that this -part of the country was formerly covered by the sea. Among the gentlemen -who favoured me with their visits, I remember a General Neville, from -Pittsburgh, whose father had been adjutant to General La Fayette during -the revolutionary war. Mr. Symmes,[II-25] brother of Captain Symmes, -author of the theory that our planet is hollow and inhabited, drew very -well, and had collected the likenesses of all the persons visiting -Cincinnati who had interested him: he had the kindness to include my -portrait in his collection. Some of these gentlemen conducted me to see -the remains of Indian antiquities which are yet existing, but which -could scarcely be recognized. We ascended an Indian mound, which is -about thirty feet high, situated in a garden. One part of it had been -cut off, but nothing being found in it, they began to plant it with -trees. I had resolved on travelling in the interior of the state of -Ohio, in order to convince myself of the condition of this country, -which has been inhabited but thirty years by a white population. -I therefore renounced the comfortable travelling on the Ohio for the -inconvenient passage by land. To be enabled to travel at my leisure, -I hired a carriage with four horses, at six dollars per day, and left -Cincinnati on the 3rd of May, at eleven o'clock, A. M. We rode that day -twenty-one miles, to the lodgings of the governor, Mr. Morrow, to whom I -had letters from Governor Johnson, of New Orleans. The road led through -a hilly and well-cultivated country. The fields separated by worm fences -adjoin each other, and contain good dwelling-houses and barns. Their -extensive orchards mostly contain apple and peach trees. I had not seen -before any place in the United States in so high a state of cultivation. -But alas! the rain had made the roads so muddy, that it was with -difficulty we proceeded. Fourteen miles from Cincinnati we reached a -little country town, Montgomery, of very good appearance, surrounded -with handsome fields. A few years past there were nothing but woods -here, as the roots which still exist bear testimony. They cultivate -Indian corn and wheat, which is said to succeed better here than in the -state of Indiana. The dwelling of the governor consists of a plain frame -house, situated on a little elevation not far from the shore of the -little Miami, and is entirely surrounded by fields. The business of the -state calls him once a month to Columbus, the seat of government, and -the remainder of his time he passes at his country-seat, occupied with -farming, a faithful copy of an ancient Cincinnatus; he was engaged at -our arrival in cutting a wagon pole, but he immediately stopt his work -to give us a hearty welcome. He appeared to be about fifty years of age; -is not tall, but thin and strong, and has an expressive physiognomy, -with dark and animated eyes. He is a native of Pennsylvania, and was one -of the first settlers in the state of Ohio. He offered us a night's -lodging at his house, which invitation we accepted very thankfully. When -seated round the chimney fire in the evening, he related to us a great -many of the dangers and difficulties the first settlers had to contend -with. They suffered mostly from the Delawares, the Indians then living -there. They had to place their houses in a state of defence. There are -at present scarcely any Indians in the state of Ohio, and it is not now -necessary for the inhabitants to guard their crops and cattle, or to -tremble for their lives. The governor told us that the increase of -population in the state of Ohio was almost incredible. In the year 1800, -it amounted to two hundred thousand inhabitants, in 1810, between four -and five hundred thousand, in 1820, about eight hundred thousand, and it -is to be expected that at the next census of 1830, it will pass one -million. Very few of the settlers brought any thing with them, it was -therefore necessary that they should do every thing by their industry -and exertion. The state had not yet been able to undertake any public -works, roads, &c. The two canals which were constructing, were the first -great work which they had attempted. We spent our evening with the -governor and his lady. Their children are settled, and they have with -them only a couple of grandchildren. When we took our seats at supper, -the governor made a prayer. There was a bible and several religious -books lying on the table. After breakfasting with our hospitable host, -we took our leave at nine o'clock, and rode fifteen miles to Union -Village, a settlement of the Shakers. The road was again hilly, and the -country as well cultivated as that we saw yesterday; we passed through a -country town of good appearance, Lebanon, which lies only four miles -from the Shaker Village. - - [Footnote II-25: [Peyton Symmes, Esq. receiver of the land - office.]--TRANS.] - -Towards three o'clock, P. M. we reached Union Village, and as the -Shakers do not allow any taverns nor public houses, we were received -with great hospitality into one of their private dwellings; we had a -clean and very nice apartment. Soon after our arrival, we were visited -by a great number of the brothers, who looked at us in a very -scrutinizing manner, and asked us a great many questions. The -inquisitiveness of these people resembles very much that of the monks, -to whom they bear a strong resemblance. I remarked among them two old -persons named M'Naman and Houston, on account of their sensible -conversation; they had formerly been Presbyterian clergymen, and are now -a sort of church-wardens to the congregation. This sect consists of six -hundred members, and is of more recent origin than the one in the state -of New York, containing mostly people of limited fortune. It had to -contend in the commencement with great difficulties, and was not in so -flourishing a condition as the one in New Lebanon. The produce of their -labours is scarcely sufficient for their wants, they have therefore not -been able as yet to establish stores, which are so productive to their -fellow believers in New Lebanon. Their houses are good and clean, they -are almost all of brick, and distant from each other. Each house has a -stone staircase leading to two doors, separated only by a window. The -right one is for the men, and the left for the females or sisters, and -so the right side of the house is destined for the brothers and the left -for the sisters. In the rear of the dwelling-houses, some of which -contain sixty members, there is a separate building for the kitchen and -dining-room, and for the workshops. The houses are surrounded with sods, -over these boards are laid leading to the pumps, stables, wash-houses, -&c.; along the side-walk and the road through the village, there are -also boards for the pedestrian. At six o'clock in the evening, the -members take supper in the adjacent refectories; I was permitted to look -at them. Two long tables were covered on each side of the room, behind -the tables were benches, in the midst of the room was a cupboard. At a -signal given with a horn, the brothers entered the door to the right, -and the sisters the one to the left, marching two and two to the table. -The sisters in waiting, to the number of six, came at the same time from -the kitchen and ranged themselves in one file opposite the table of the -sisters. After which they all fell on their knees making a silent -prayer, then arose, took hold of the benches behind them, sat down and -took their meal in the greatest silence. I was told this manner was -observed at all their daily meals. They eat bread, butter and cakes, and -drank tea. Each member found his cup filled before him--the serving -sisters filling them when required. One of the sisters was standing at -the cupboard to pour out the tea--the meal was very short, the whole -society rose at once, the benches were put back, they fell again on -their knees, rose again, and wheeling to the right, left the room with a -quick step. I remarked among the females some very pretty faces, but -they were all without exception of a pale and sickly hue. They were -disfigured by their ugly costume, which consists of a white starched -bonnet. The men likewise had bad complexions. During the whole evening I -was visited by the brothers, by whom I was completely examined; among -them were two Frenchmen of the name of Conchon, father and son, who told -me they were very well satisfied. The son had perfectly adopted the -humble manner of the monks, did not open his eyes, and in explaining the -principles of their sect according to the bible, he maintained that they -were the only Christian sect who followed the true spirit of the gospel. -Respecting their political regulations, they are entirely founded on -perfect community of goods, and renunciation of all private property; -they live in a perfect equality. It will be found that Mr. Owen has -borrowed the greater part of the laws of his new social system from the -Shakers, with this difference, that the Shakers are united by the tie of -religion, and the hope of a better life, which is entirely disbelieved -by Owen. - -It is known that a part of the worship of the believers in mother Ann -Lee, as the Shakers call themselves, consists in dancing. The bible -gives us several examples of worship by dancing--king David danced -before the ark. Mother Ann Lee, founder of this sect, taught that God -should not only be worshipped with the tongue but with the whole body, -and in consequence she introduced jumping and dancing in her divine -service. This is practised publicly in church, accompanied by the -singing of hymns composed for the purpose--strangers are admitted as -spectators. Their church consists of a plain and spacious room, but not -near so large as the church at New Lebanon. On the mornings and evenings -during the week, there are private dancing prayers in the dwelling -houses. The walls of the rooms of the brothers and sisters consists of -large folding doors, which, when opened, form with the corridor one -large room, in which they dance and jump. Our presence putting them -under some restraint, there was no dancing in the evening, which was a -great disappointment to us. Delicacy prevented my inquiring after the -dance. At nine o'clock in the evening every one retired. I was shown to -a very good and clean room. - -The following day, 5th May, several brothers called upon me. Among them -was a German, the only one belonging to this sect. His name was -Christian Bockholder, a native of Neuwied on the Rhine. He is a small, -weakly man, who was converted to this sect but six years ago, and who -seemed much pleased, particularly with the good order, tranquillity, and -peace, which reigns among them; but he observed that this life not -suiting every one, it was necessary to try it carefully before becoming -a member; he had lived six months among them before being received. -Finally he remarked, that notwithstanding every one was free to leave -the society when he thought proper, it would be very wrong to do so, as -when once accustomed to it he would be utterly unfit for the world. At -nine o'clock, when we left Union Village, they, to our surprise, refused -to receive either pay or presents, and nothing now remained but to -return verbal thanks for their hospitality, after which we parted. We -rode twenty-six miles to Xenia, a small country town, where we arrived -after five o'clock, P. M. - -We rode through a very fine and cultivated country, which originally -consisted of woods. We saw at least every five hundred paces with an -habitation or some fields. Those forests which still remain, are chiefly -composed of oak, ash, sugar-maple, plane, shumac, and dogwood trees; the -latter bears handsome white flowers. I did not find the vegetation so -much advanced as in the states of Indiana and Kentucky. We suffered very -much from the bad roads, a greater part of which were log causeways. -I walked a great part of the way. We forded several little rivulets and -creeks, among them the Little Miami; we found a tree laid across without -a rail, intended as a bridge. At several of these we saw some flour and -saw-mills, and passed several small and new settlements, with neat brick -houses and large barns. The handsomest is Bellbrook. Xenia, where we -found a good tavern, is situated very agreeably. The streets are large, -and cross each other at right angles: most of the houses are of brick, -and are situated at a certain distance from each other. The number of -inhabitants is about eight hundred, who farm and carry on different -trades. This little place has two printing-offices, a Latin school, and -several stores. In the centre of the town is the court-house, built of -brick. Xenia is the chief town of Green county. Next to it is a massive -jail. In an excursion we made the following day, May 6th, I remarked one -of the machines for preparing flax, of which I bought a copyright at the -patent-office in Washington. It was worked by a single horse, and did -the work of five men, besides which the flax does not require any -rotting. After nine o'clock we departed, and rode eighteen miles to -Springfield. We stopped on our way at a small village, Yellow Springs, -to see the spring from which this place derives its name. The village -occupies a woody elevation on the shore of the Little Miami, rushing -through a deep rocky valley. The place is small, and was bought by a -society of twelve gentlemen, under the direction of Mr. Lowndes, -a friend of Mr. M'Clure. These gentlemen intended to found a sect upon -Owen's system; there had been one established here previously, but -dissolved on account of the majority of them being worthless creatures, -who had brought neither capital, nor inclination to work. Mr. Lowndes, -whose acquaintance I made, said that he expected new and better members. -The locality is healthy and favourable for such an establishment. The -spring originates in a limestone rock, the water has a little taste of -iron, and deposits a great quantity of ochre, from which it takes its -name. The spring is said to give one hundred and ten gallons of water -per minute, which is received in a basin, surrounded with cedar trees. -The yellow stream which comes from the basin, runs a short distance over -a bed of limestone and is afterwards precipitated into the valley. These -limestone rocks form very singular figures on the edge of this valley; -the detached pieces resemble the Devil's Wall of the Hartz. - -They had no baths fitted up, as yet there is only a shower-bath. The -former will most probably be established, when it becomes a place of -public resort. Mr. Lowndes told me that it was their intention to take -more water in, and to have some walks established in the vicinity, to -which the surrounding country is very favourable. Following Mr. Lowndes' -advice, we took a roundabout way of one mile and rode to a saw-mill -called Patterson's mill, to see the lesser falls of the Little Miami. -I had no reason to repent it, as I was richly rewarded with one of the -finest prospects I ever beheld. The Little Miami forces itself for the -length of a mile with most singular windings through a rocky dale at -least fifty feet deep, which in many places is but eighteen feet wide, -it forms little cataracts, and suddenly disappears for a short distance. -Large cedar trees shade this precipice, which makes it very gloomy, and -contribute in a great measure to the peculiarity of this imposing scene -of nature. The rocks are very steep, and are connected by a bridge, on -which one looks from the dizzy precipice into a real abyss. Following a -narrow path, I went down to the water and found myself almost in -obscurity. I felt entirely separated from the world, and was scarcely -able to preserve the consciousness of my own existence. I experienced a -peculiar feeling on again perceiving the day-light. Following the course -of the rushing waters I reached Patterson's saw-mill, where the men -working for their daily bread, recalled me to human life. Near the -saw-mill a dam forms an artificial waterfall, making a very handsome -effect, being about twenty feet high. The saw-mill has a horizontal -water-mill of the same description as those which I had previously seen -in the United States. With a strong fall of water these wheels have more -effect, and are cheaper than those used in other countries. The road -from the mill to Springfield was bad, mostly by causeways, and I was -again compelled to walk a greater part of the way. Springfield is the -chief town of Clark county, and lies partly at the foot of a hill and -partly upon it, at the confluence of two creeks, the shores are so -marshy that I believe it would be possible to cut turf there. The town -contains fifteen hundred inhabitants, nearly all the houses are built of -brick, the streets are wide and right-angled, they are not paved; the -principal street has a side-walk of brick. In the centre of this little -town is a court-house built of brick, and having the form of an octagon; -next to it stands a jail. The place is surrounded with orchards, meadows -and well cultivated fenced fields. A chain of hills end in a point -behind the town, not far from the confluence of both creeks. On this -point are four insulated hills, which are said to be Indian mounds, -three stand on the edge of one of the creeks, and at some distance is -the fourth, which is quite detached from the others. The latter is the -highest, its elevation is more than one hundred feet above the level of -the valley; from this hill the eye commands a view over Springfield, the -whole surrounding valley, the union of both valleys and the woody -heights encircling the whole, there are clusters of blooming and high -black thorn bushes growing in the meadows, which produce a good effect. -This place seems to be opulent, it contains several good stores, and -depends chiefly on the breeding of cattle and agriculture. We were very -comfortably lodged at the inn at which we stopped. - -On the 7th of May, at nine o'clock, we left Springfield on a beautiful -Sunday morning, and curiosity had assembled a crowd of people before our -inn, to gaze at such wonders as we were. We went twenty-three miles on -the road to Columbus, until we arrived at a single tavern, called -Pike's. The country was less cultivated than we had seen since leaving -Cincinnati; we saw however, several fine orchards and fields; all the -settlements are new, and the habitations mostly consist of log-houses; -we met several carts filled with well-dressed country people and several -of both sexes on horseback, they were all going to church at -Springfield. The road was generally very bad, and over many log -causeways, kept in bad order. Beyond the woods, we saw vast tracts of -meadow ground, on which only a few trees could be seen, but there were -very handsome black thorns in flower. On the meadows numerous cattle -were grazing, we passed two with a great number of sheep, and hogs were -always plenty; the breeding of cattle is carried on to a great extent; -quantities of cheese and butter are made here for sale; the cattle are -drove to the eastern states, or the meat is salted and sent to New -Orleans. We observed a great many partridges of a large kind, which they -call pheasants[II-26] here; the forests abound with wild pigeons. We -reached our lodging place, Pike's tavern, about four o'clock in the -afternoon. It is situated amidst meadows[II-27] and consists of two -log-houses erected close behind each other, they resemble those of the -state of Georgia, differing only in being better suited for a colder -climate, as the crevices are filled with clay. Our landlord only began -his establishment five years ago; he came from Massachusetts. Towards -evening we saw a fine drove of cattle belonging to him, and in which his -fortune chiefly consisted. Next morning we left our abode where we had -been better lodged than we had expected, and went twenty miles farther -to Columbus. The road was worse than any I had ever met with, consisting -generally of log causeways, which are badly assorted and have large -holes between them. We were barbarously jolted about, and therefore I -went more than half the way on foot; the soil principally consists of a -black meadow ground, marshy, with little wood and less cultivated. It is -said to be unwholesome during the summer; the houses are scattered and -in a bad condition. At one mile from Columbus, is a small place called -Franklinton, having several brick houses and a court-house. Its increase -was at one time promising, but Columbus prevents its future advancement. -Columbus is situated on the high left bank of the Sciota; we forded this -river, which was perilous, as the water ran into our carriage; there was -a wooden bridge formerly between Franklinton and Columbus, but it was -broken down a year ago; trees are growing very fast in the woods in the -vicinity, but the wood is without strength and becomes rotten as soon as -it attains its growth, which makes it impossible to depend on the -duration of wooden buildings. Columbus is the chief town of the state of -Ohio, and contains about one thousand eight hundred inhabitants, and -three churches; one Presbyterian, one Lutheran, and one Methodist. In -the year 1812, there were nothing but forests, and in the same year the -lots of the city with the wood were sold, upon which they immediately -commenced building. It is astonishing how this place has since -increased, and still continues to improve--the streets are wide, and -cross each other at right angles. The principal street running parallel -with the Sciota, is about one hundred feet wide, having side-walks, and -a considerable number of brick houses--the adjoining streets are not yet -much occupied. In building the principal streets, one of the Indian -mounds has been opened, and nearly destroyed. A great number of human -bones were found, remains of urns, and an owl carved in stone, but very -clumsy; with the clay of which the mound was made, bricks were burned -which served for the construction of the state-house; this building -contains the offices of the state, and the United States court. These -three buildings stand near each other at one end of the principal -street, each of them having two stories--the state-house as well as the -court, are situated at the sides of these long offices, which gives them -the appearance of barracks; they have steeples and galleries, from which -the course of the Sciota, receiving a mile above the town the Whetstone -river, can be followed with the eye to a great distance over the fertile -plain on the right shore of the Sciota, where Franklinton is situated, -and is a very handsome sight. The Sciota originates in the state of -Ohio, runs one hundred and eighty-two miles, and flows in the Ohio -between Portsmouth and Alexandria, its mouth is one hundred and fifty -yards wide; it is navigable one hundred and thirty miles and upwards. -The Whetstone, which it receives above Columbus, is at certain times -navigable for nine miles. About five miles above Columbus, on the left -shore of the Sciota, is a quarry of white sandstone, which resembles -marble until polished, after which it turns grey. Columbus contains -three printing-offices, each of which issues a newspaper. There are also -bookstores, one of them belongs to Mr. Kilbourn, author of the Ohio -Gazetteer; this book having been of great use to me, during my journey -through this state, I wished to see the author of so useful a work, -an attention with which he appeared much pleased. Respecting the three -newspapers, I found their number great for so small a place, but I heard -that only one, which is in some measure the official paper of the state, -was much read, and had many subscribers; the other two having but fifty, -and could only maintain themselves by advertisements, &c. I met in -Columbus with a Mr. Doherty, whose acquaintance I had made in -Cincinnati, and who conducted me to see the town. There is nothing -remarkable in the public buildings above mentioned; the state -penitentiary interested me much more; it is well situated, appears to be -well arranged, and contains one hundred and fifty-two convicts; the -principal building is on a rising ground; in the rear are several yards -where the workshops of the prisoners are situated, they are clothed in a -dress part grey and part white, and sleep two together, in airy but -narrow cells, on straw mattresses; during the day they are employed in -the workshops, or in the work of the house. They have a large refectory, -where their meals, consisting of meat and vegetables are served up in -wooden plates; each prisoner is obliged to work at the trade which he -understands, and he who is acquainted with none is obliged to learn one, -being permitted to choose which he prefers. All the clothing used in the -house, as well as the cotton cloth, are made by the prisoners, who -receive no payment; there is also a wheelwright shop in operation, as -well as blacksmiths, coopers, cabinet-makers, comb-makers, saddlers, and -gunsmiths, who make very good rifles: the articles manufactured by the -coopers consist chiefly of buckets and barrels, made of white and red -cedar wood; there is a store attached to the prison, where all these -articles are exposed for sale. I understand that the prison maintains -itself, and causes but a trifling expense to the state. The favourite -solitary confinement in dark and subterraneous cells is used as a -capital punishment. A couple of prisoners who had tried to escape and -were retaken, wore an iron collar with a horn attached to it; the prison -has been in use ten years, during which time, ten men only had escaped, -nearly all of whom had been retaken: the prisoners are so well treated, -that I was assured that several of them stole again, after having served -their time out, in order to return to their prison. It is worthy of -notice that during ten years, two white females only, were committed to -this prison; the yards are surrounded by a large and high wall, where -sentries keep watch day and night with loaded muskets. We left Columbus -on the 9th of May, at eight o'clock in the morning, and rode to -Circleville, a distance of twenty-six miles. The road passes along the -left shore of the Sciota, through a woody and rather uncultivated -country, two days of rain had softened the ground considerably; -fortunately we met with very few log causeways; we forded two small -rivers which flow into the Sciota, called Big-Belly creek, and Lower -Walnut creek. We passed a small place, Bloomfield, consisting of small -frame houses, and reached Circleville towards two o'clock, P. M. -Circleville is built in one of the old Indian forts, whose origin, as -well as that of the nation which erected it, is buried in utter -darkness. The circular part immediately joins the square, and -communicates with it by means of a single outlet. The square fort has -eight outlets, and in the rear of each of them there is a little mound, -which appears to have served as traverses for the defence of the -entries; the round fort has two parallel ramparts separated by a ditch. -The quadrangular fort has but a single one, where there are no traces of -a trench; the diameter of the circular fort, taken between the exterior -ramparts, is one hundred and ninety-six rods; both of them are twenty -feet high, taken from the base of the ditch; the inner one is filled up, -and the exterior is dug from the ground; the fortress consists of clay, -the latter of sand and flintstone; the rampart of the square fort is ten -feet higher, and of clay; the length of one side of the square is -fifty-four rods; the town, containing six hundred inhabitants, is for -the greatest part built inside of the round and square fort, of which it -occupies the fourth part of the surface. In its centre is a round space, -in the midst of which stands a court-house of brick in the shape of an -octagon. Circleville is the chief town of Pickaway county. From this -circular place four principal streets run towards the north, south, -east, and west; in order to open them, the double round wall has -unfortunately been partly demolished; the selfishness of the inhabitants -goes so far that they take the clay of the inner wall and the square -fort to burn bricks of it; this little town was founded in 1812, at the -same time with Columbus, but has not increased much since; the houses -are generally of wood. The prison alone is of solid construction, built -of free-stone. - - [Footnote II-26: [_Tetrao Umbellus_, L.]--TRANS.] - - [Footnote II-27: These meadows are designated in America, by the - name of prairies, and extend over large tracts of land in the - western country; they are covered with high grass; trees grow very - sparingly on them, while the surrounding forests exhibit the most - beautiful trees; the soil of these prairies generally consists of - turf-moor.] - -On the outside of the circular fort, on the hill opposite the -quadrangular fort, is another hill ninety feet high, that commands all -the neighbouring parts, which appear to have been a burying-ground--a -great number of human skeletons of all sizes having been found there; -they were all in a horizontal position, the heads being turned towards -the centre of the hill. With the skeletons were several stone axes, and -oval, polished black stones, having a hole in their centre, probably to -fix them on a string, to be worn as ornaments or talismans. - -In the centre of the circular fort, where the court-house now stands, -there was formerly another hill, on the eastern side of which are the -remains of a semicircular pavement, made of pebble-stones, the same -which are found in the bed of the Sciota; the top of the hill is of -thirty feet diameter, and has a flight of steps leading to it; two human -skeletons were found there. At the natural level of the ground a great -number of stone arrow-heads, which were so strong that they must have -belonged to lances. A great quantity of wood ashes and hard burnt bricks -induce the belief that the bodies were burnt; there was a looking-glass -made of mica membranacea. More minute details of these antiquities, -as well as all the others which have been found in this state, are -described in Mr. Caleb Atwater's _Archaelogia Americana_. I paid a visit -to this gentleman, who resides here; he is a great antiquarian, and -exists more in the antiquities of Ohio, than in the present world. -I spent the evening with this interesting man, and was very agreeably -entertained; he possesses a collection of objects which were found in -different mounds; it contains fragments of urns, arrow-heads of a large -size, battle-axes made of flintstone, and several human bones. Mr. -Atwater likewise possesses a very handsome collection of minerals, among -which I found some interesting petrifactions of wood and plants, in -particular, the whortleberry plant. He offered to send to the university -of Jena a collection of these petrifactions which are found near -Zanesville, in this state, and for which he desired to obtain some -German minerals. I must not omit to mention, that on the hill, outside -of the circular fort, is a small wooden house nearly destroyed by -storms, which commands a view of all the surrounding country. It had -been a house of ill fame, but being visited one night by a violent -storm, it was abandoned by its inhabitants, to the great edification of -the whole town. - -The 10th of May we rode nineteen miles, from Circleville to Chillicothe, -formerly the capital of Ohio, situated on the right shore of the Sciota. -Our way led us through a handsome and very well cultivated country; -we saw fine fields, good dwelling-houses, orchards, and gardens; also -several mills, turned by the water of the Sciota, and several other -little creeks; some of these mills are at the same time fulling, flour, -and saw-mills. - -The forests are chiefly of sugar maple, plane, and different kinds of -nut trees: the road was tolerably good, the weather fine and warm; there -is a covered wooden bridge which crosses the Sciota not far from -Chillicothe; this bridge runs at least five hundred paces on piers, over -a meadow which is sometimes inundated by the Sciota. We were comfortably -lodged at Watson's hotel, in Chillicothe. This town, like Philadelphia, -lies between two rivers--the Sciota may be considered as the Delaware, -and Paint creek rivulet takes place of the Schuylkill: the streets are -large, at right angles, and without pavement, but have side-walks: -a great part of the houses are built of brick; there are several fine -stores. Over the whole prosperity and liveliness appears to reign. -Chillicothe is the chief town of Ross county; it contains a court-house, -built of freestone, which, at the time it was the seat of the state -government, was used for the senate house; the representatives met in -the building now used for the court offices: there is also in this city -a jail, and a market-house of brick. I received visits from several of -the most distinguished inhabitants, among them was a lawyer, Mr. -Leonard, Dr. Vethake and Colonel King, son of the celebrated Rufus King, -the American minister to London, and son-in-law of the former governor -of this state, Mr. Worthington: the latter lived at a country-seat two -miles from Chillicothe, where he enjoyed his rents and the revenue of -his considerable property, in the midst of an amiable family and an -agreeable old age, free from cares. His son-in-law invited us to his -father's house; we accepted his invitation and rode in Messrs. Leonard -and Vethake's company, towards evening, to the country-seat; our road -led us through a beautiful and well cultivated valley, near a little -Indian mound, and through a forest of beach, maple, chesnut and hickory -trees; finally we rode through handsome fields, where here and there we -saw groups of white thorn. The governor's house is surrounded with -Lombardy poplars; it is constructed in the style of an Italian villa, of -free stone, with stone steps on the exterior, is two stories high, and -has two wings, having a court in front of the centre building containing -honeysuckles and roses: on one side of the house is a terrace with -flowers and kitchen vegetables; this garden was arranged by German -gardeners who keep it in very good order: behind the house are large -clover fields, and to the right the farm buildings. Governor Worthington -occupies himself with the raising of cattle, particularly sheep; he had -a flock of one hundred and fifty merinos. I understood that they were -numerous in the state of Ohio. Colonel King and his highly accomplished -lady, came to meet us; the governor and his lady soon appeared: he has -travelled a great deal, has been a long time in public offices, and was -for several years a member of the United States' senate; his eldest son -was travelling in Europe, another son was in the military academy at -West Point. He has ten children, on whom he expended a great deal for -their education; the evening passed rapidly in instructive and -interesting conversation, the hospitable governor insisted on our -passing the night at his house; the house is very commodious, the -furniture plain, but testifies the good taste and easy circumstances of -the owner. I arose early next morning and took a walk in the governor's -garden, I ascended to a platform on the roof to take a view of the -surrounding lands, but there is as yet nothing but woods covering the -greater part of the country. Fires, which were burning in some places, -were proofs, that new settlers were clearing the woods; from this -platform the governor can overlook the greater part of his property, -containing twenty-five thousand acres of land; by this means he has the -greater part of his workmen under his control; the ground consists of -low hills, and it is only towards the east in the direction of -Zanesville, that more considerable elevations are perceived. I took -breakfast with the worthy governor and his family, and found here, as at -Governor Morrow's, that the father of the family, observed the laudable -custom of making a prayer before sitting down. After breakfast we took -leave of this respectable family, whose acquaintance I consider as one -of the most interesting I made in the United States, and returned to -town. Chillicothe contains from two to three thousand inhabitants, who -subsist chiefly by farming, raising of cattle and retail commerce; they -had also commenced establishing woollen factories, and possessed a bank; -it was formerly a branch of the United States Bank, but doing too little -business, was suppressed by the mother bank in Philadelphia. We visited -two churches, one Methodist and one Episcopalian, the former was rather -large, both of them were very plain and contained nothing worthy of -remark. We paid a visit to Mr. Hufnagel, a native of Wuerzburg, an -elderly man who had experienced misfortune, and who is now established -as a butcher and trader in cattle, and finds himself in easy -circumstances; he appeared to be very much delighted at my visit, and -received us very heartily in his well arranged house, situated in an -orchard. Between two and three o'clock, the stage took us to Colonel -King's house, where we dined, in order to drive us eighteen miles to -Tarleton; we took leave of him with grateful hearts; the road ran -through a well cultivated country, which is very hilly and presents -several picturesque situations; ten miles from Chillicothe on a hill, is -a small village, Kingston, with farms of a good appearance, and several -mills. Towards sunset we reached Tarleton, a handsome little spot of -about twenty houses, and took our lodgings at a very good tavern, kept -by a Pennsylvanian German. I had lost my pocket-book, probably by one of -the hard jolts which our stage had received; it contained several papers -of importance. It was found one mile from Chillicothe, and by its -contents I was known to be the owner; a man set out in the night to -bring it to me; at midnight this man arrived in Tarleton, had me called -up, and safely returned me my pocket-book. I was so much delighted to -recover it, that I expressed my thankfulness in every way I could. On -the 12th of May, we left Tarleton at two o'clock in the morning, and -rode to New Lancaster, which is sixteen miles; we arrived between seven -and eight o'clock, and took our lodgings at Steinman's hotel; the mail -stage which went that day to Zanesville, had only two horses and took no -passengers, I therefore resolved to stay until the following day, as it -was said there would be a stage with four horses, and I found no cause -to repent it. New Lancaster has its name from the city of Lancaster in -Pennsylvania, and was founded by Pennsylvanian Germans, who were joined -by many German emigrants, particularly Wurtembergers, and some Switzers, -all of whom were pleased with the good climate, the fertile soil, which -requires but little cultivation and manure, and above all, by the cheap -living and profitable earnings. New Lancaster is the principal town of -Fairfield county, and is handsomely situated on the side of a hill on -the Hockhocking river, not far distant from its source; it contains -nearly two thousand inhabitants, living by retail commerce, farming, and -cattle raising. Since 1822, the culture of tobacco has also been -introduced; this tobacco is called yellow, and is esteemed; I understand -that it sells very well in Holland. The streets of the town are wide and -rectangular; the court-house is a brick building; there is also a -market-house of brick, and above it a lodge for freemasons. Shortly -after my arrival, I received the visits of several of the German and -half German inhabitants, among the latter I remarked Judge Dietrich, -a native of Philadelphia, an agreeable, plain and well-informed man; he -offered to be my guide through the town, which I thankfully accepted. He -introduced me to several of the merchants, whose well-furnished stores I -visited. Such a store in America contains a great variety of articles: -all kinds of dry-goods, porcelain, earthenware, glasses, stationary, -implements of husbandry, iron wares, saddlery, and spirits; the latter -are only by wholesale; also school-books, bibles, and psalm-books. -I observed in almost all the cities in the state of Ohio, that German -translations were affixed to all the signs over the stores, in large -golden letters, which is not only a proof that a great many Germans -inhabit the state, but also that they are good customers. We saw an -English and German printing-office; the latter was under the direction -of a German, Mr. Herrman, who publishes a German newspaper under the -title of _Der Ohio Adler_,[II-28] the English printing-office likewise -publishes a paper; the type for the German paper is from the foundry in -Philadelphia, and cannot be said to be elegant; it is true there is -generally but little elegance to be observed in German type. I read in -Mr. Herrman's office about twelve different German papers, published in -the United States; they were mostly written in a corrupted German; the -only well written one, was edited in Philadelphia, by Mr. Ritter. - - [Footnote II-28: [The Ohio Eagle.]--TRANS.] - -Judge Dietrich conducted me to a cloth manufactory belonging to Mr. -Risey, whose machinery is moved by the waters of the Hockhocking. It was -of recent date, and furnished cloth of middling quality; the want of a -sufficient quantity of water made it necessary to divide the manufactory -into different parts, at different situations; one was occupied by the -machines for carding wool, and some by looms; the wool was spun by -country women. We visited the county jail, a brick building, the -interior has partitions made of strong beams, separating obscure cells; -a dark and miserable hole called the dungeon, was destined for solitary -confinement; there was but a single prisoner, and for debt. Mr. Dietrich -introduced me to a Mr. Sherman, judge of the supreme court, who is one -of the most respectable inhabitants of the place. He invited me to tea, -and I met with a very agreeable society; we all took a walk to Mount -Pleasant, two miles from town, which on three sides presents steep -cliffs; this mountain is only accessible from one side, through a forest -and hollow between rocks. From the top of the mountain the town seems to -lay below your feet, and is surrounded with fenced fields; this point -being one of the highest in this hilly country, the prospect would be -very handsome if the eye could perceive any thing but woods. Next -morning some Swabian farmers came to see me; I was sitting at my -writing-table when they entered; they sat down without taking off their -hats, and conversed very sensibly; I understood from them that they were -very much pleased with the country, and that they felt conscious of -being honest and useful men. At eight o'clock we went into the mail -stage, an uncomfortable box, in which we rode thirty-six miles to -Zanesville, on a rough road with many causeways leading through a hilly -region, so that we had to stop at least forty times. It was very warm -and dusty during the day; the land was less fertile than what we had -previously seen in the state of Ohio, containing more clay and sand; -we arrived in the district of the coal and salt mines, both of which -articles are found in the vicinity of Zanesville. We passed between New -Lancaster and Zanesville the insignificant places of Rush-hill, -Somerset, Union town, and Jonathan's creek; Rush-hill is in a pretty -situation on Rush-creek, a strong rivulet which works several mills; it -consists of about thirty houses, some of them of brick. Somerset, half -way from New Lancaster to Zanesville, contains four hundred inhabitants, -it is on an elevated situation and is the chief town of Perry county. -Jonathan's creek has given its name to the little village situated on -both of its shores; the true name of this creek is Maxahala; it is very -convenient for mills. We met with two herds of beautiful cattle, which -had been brought from Chillicothe, and were driving to the eastern -seaports for sale; towards six o'clock we arrived in a well-cultivated -district, our road led us through orchards and neat houses; finally we -arrived at Putnam, a little place situated on the right shore of the -Muskingum, opposite Zanesville. We crossed the river by a covered wooden -bridge, resting on five stone piers. The Muskingum is one of the most -considerable rivers in the state of Ohio, it begins in the most northern -part, runs in a southerly direction, waters several counties, and -empties by a mouth twenty-five yards broad, into the Ohio at Marietta; -it is navigable from Zanesville upwards; below, the mill-dams prevent -the navigation. On account of the new canal which is to unite the Ohio -with Lake Erie, on which they were working, though slowly, for want of -funds, the navigation on this river will cease. - -In Zanesville we took good lodgings at Hughes' hotel; there must be a -great number of travellers, as in the principal street we could count -seven other taverns. Zanesville contains three thousand inhabitants: its -streets are large and straight, a great number of brick houses, upwards -of twenty stores, two printing-offices, and two glass-houses, where -common window-glass and bottles are manufactured, which are well paid -for in the vicinity; this town has been for some time the chief town of -the state of Ohio, and is now the principal place of Muskingum county; -the court-house is a large brick building, in front of it was erected a -triumphal arch in honour of General La Fayette, but he did not pass -here. We returned in the evening over the bridge to Putnam, to deliver -letters to Mr. Ebenezer Buckingham. On this occasion I found that the -length of this bridge was about two hundred and seventy-seven ordinary -paces; it is divided in two parts, the wagons keeping the right side. -Putnam consists of a single street, running along the river, behind -which is a rocky elevation; the street afterwards forms an angle, -leaving the river and looses itself in a picturesque valley between -fields and orchards. This place has six hundred inhabitants, a great -many brick houses, and presents a flourishing appearance. Mr. Buckingham -is one of the most respectable inhabitants, and has a large store in -which he keeps all articles that may be required here; he received us in -his store, and gave us much information relative to Zanesville, Putnam -and its vicinity; the ground is not so fertile here as in other parts of -the state, but kind Providence has indemnified them in some measure with -salt, and coal-mines; the salt springs were previously known to the -Indians, but not used by them. When the country became inhabited by a -white population, they bored to the depth of two hundred feet and found -abundant salt springs, some of them were deeper; the openings being made -larger, walled cisterns were fixed to collect the running water. The -salt is boiled in large kettles, after which it is made to run over flat -reservoirs, where it is cooled, and the salt separated; this is the same -method which is followed in England, and which I had seen in the salt -works of Northwich; having heard this description, and the springs being -four miles distant, I gave up the idea of visiting them. A great many -petrifactions and impressions of plants are found here, some of which I -had seen at Mr. Atwater's, in Circleville. - -On the next day, Mr. Buckingham came for me, to introduce me to his -family, consisting of his wife and three daughters, very good children; -the eldest was nine years old, his only son was a cadet in the military -school at West Point. The house in which he resides at Putnam is at some -distance from his store, is two stories high, built of brick with a -stone porch; in front of the house is a space planted with trees and -flowers separated from the street by an iron railing with large stone -posts. In the rear of the house is a kitchen garden and orchard; the -house is very convenient and furnished with taste and well-directed -luxury. All this was interesting to me, because I heard from Mr. -Buckingham that twenty-nine years since, he emigrated as a poor man from -the state of New York to that wild country, and on the spot where his -property now stands he had himself felled the trees, and built a -log-house in which he lived several years; he owes his welfare to his -integrity, his industry, and economy. In his business, he informed me -money was a rare thing, which he seldom saw; the greatest number of -persons who buy articles from his store, pay for them in corn, beef, -lard, corn meal, vegetables, fruits, &c. This is, however, the case with -most of the stores in the western states, and give the merchants -considerable trouble to sell them. I accompanied Mr. Buckingham and -family to the Presbyterian church in Zanesville, a large brick building, -which was very full and very warm. I understood very little of the -sermon; the singing was excellent, without organ or any musical -accompaniment. In the centre of the church was a long table, as a -greater part of the congregation were communicants. Mr. Buckingham and -family partook of this religious rite. I took a walk through the town, -and visited a second bridge crossing the Muskingum, situated above the -first; this bridge is more ancient than the first, and likewise rests on -five stone piers; it is covered and made of wood, but badly constructed -and in a decayed condition. It does not run in a straight line, but -forms an obtuse angle, in order to reach a point of land which is -produced by the union of the Licking with the Muskingum, from this angle -of the bridge, another begins, which goes towards the point of land; -this is not roofed; this bridge leads to the Newark road, meanwhile the -covered branch is directed to the New Lancaster road. Since the -construction of the better bridge below, the older one is very little -used. The prospect from it over the Muskingum and Licking is very -handsome. Both of them have, not far from their junction, high dams -forming waterfalls, and on all the four shores mills for flour, oil and -sawing. The Licking begins at the junction of three little rivers in -Licking county, and has some falls above, where it unites with the -Muskingum, which have been used for mills. At two o'clock we returned to -our mail stage; the weather being very hot, we rode but twelve miles, to -an insulated house called Dugan's tavern, where we arrived between five -and six o'clock, and met with tolerably good quarters. The country is -woody and very hilly, the road was so bad that we had to stop -frequently, and for this reason I again went the greatest part of the -road on foot, in spite of the heat and dust; the next day we travelled -in the same manner to Fairview, forty-eight miles distant, along a very -hilly country, bad road, rocks, causeways, and so many rapid -declivities, that we had to stop thirty times. We passed through Salt -creek, Cambridge, Washington, and Frankfort. Salt creek lies on a small -river of the same name, over which there is a bridge. Cambridge is a -flourishing place of about seventy houses, on a height situated on -Will's creek, which is crossed by a plain wooden bridge of one hundred -and seventy-five yards, which passes over a low meadow; this town is the -chief place in Gurnsey county, and contains a court-house and several -stores. We arrived on a court day, and the tavern was filled with -lawyers. Will's creek runs through many windings, about one hundred and -fifty miles, and flows into the Muskingum; it is in some seasons -navigable to Cambridge, in boats of seventy-five feet length. Washington -and Frankfort are small places, of which nothing can be said. On the -road, especially near dwelling houses, were several large open buildings -constructed with beams to dry the yellow tobacco. The country is mostly -covered with woods. The ground consists of yellow and red clay, &c. - -Fairview, which we reached towards five o'clock in the evening, is a -little place containing about twenty houses, most of them frame; it is -situated on an elevation commanding an extensive prospect, whence it -derives its name. We met here with part of the great national road which -leads from Washington city to Wheeling, and is to be continued as far as -St. Louis. It is a turnpike road, dug out six inches deep, and is -covered six inches thick with small stones, having a ditch on each side; -they were working slowly at it: Fairview is now at the end of the road. - -On the 16th of May we left Fairview, in a beautiful starlight and warm -night, and continued our journey sixty miles to Washington in -Pennsylvania. The country was hilly. The two last villages we passed in -the state of Ohio, were Morristown and St. Clairsville. Both places are -small, but well situated on elevations, and surrounded with fields and -orchards. St. Clairsville is the chief town of Bellmont county; it -contains a court-house, jail, market-house, and printing-office, which -issues a newspaper; also several stores. The houses are merely of wood. -The nearer we approached to the Ohio, the handsomer was the country. -Finally, we came to a romantic dale, through which flows in a serpentine -direction a rivulet called Indian Wheeling, which joins the Ohio -opposite Wheeling. We frequently rode along the new national turnpike -road, on which they were working rapidly. This road carefully avoids the -numerous hills, cuts through several of them, and has, where it is -requisite, solid stone bridges. It was said that it would be finished in -the autumn. When arrived at the Ohio, which runs between hilly shores, -partly covered with woods, partly cultivated, twenty-nine miles from -Fairview, we crossed over the river and arrived at a considerable woody -island, and crossed the left arm in a horse-boat, which took us to -Wheeling, a town containing two thousand inhabitants, built on a terrace -along a steep and high hill. Thus we left the state of Ohio, an -important and daily increasing state, which, with the exception of the -bad roads, had pleased me very much. We entered the state of Virginia, -of which a part runs like a wedge between the states of Pennsylvania and -Ohio. In Wheeling we took the stage on the great national road to -Washington in Pennsylvania, which is twenty-nine miles distant. We soon -ascended a high mountain, from the top of which we could discover on one -side the beautiful valley of the Ohio, the woody mountains bordering the -valley, and the town of Wheeling with its orchards and gardens on the -other; a deep valley along which the Wheeling creek runs in a -picturesque manner. The national road gradually descends this steep -hill, forming the western border of the valley, continues in it and goes -over a handsome stone bridge across Wheeling creek. A neighbouring -family who profited considerably by the construction of the national -road, have erected at the bridge a monument in honour of the secretary -of state, (H. Clay,) who was the chief promoter of it in congress. This -monument consists, as far as I could perceive in my hurry, of a statue -of liberty, coarsely sculptured in sandstone, placed on a clumsy -pedestal ornamented with inscriptions and bas relief. Monuments erected -to living persons have always something suspicious; they generally -exhibit that vile adulation to which the Dutch give a characteristic -name.[II-29] I was greatly surprised to find such sentiments in this -country, and to see them tolerated. The national road, which is finished -seven years ago, requires considerable repairs, or at least to be kept -in better order. Since it has been finished nothing has been done to it. -The tracks are deep, and the road is very rough. The stage we rode in -was of the description made in the north-eastern states, which are the -best and most convenient I had met with since October last year. We -changed horses twice in West Alexandria and Claysville. We passed -several little places through a well cultivated country, over some stone -bridges of sumptuous construction. Fifteen miles from Wheeling we left -the state of Virginia, and entered the state of Pennsylvania partly -known to me, and which I now intended to cross from its western to its -eastern extremity. We arrived at Washington at ten o'clock at night, and -left there at one o'clock on the morning of the 17th of May, the weather -being cloudy. Abandoning the national road, we turned to the left -towards Pittsburgh, twenty-five miles from Washington. To Cannonsburg, -a distance of seven miles, the road was tolerably good, but after this -it became bad, and I was compelled, in conformity to my old custom, -to walk a great part of the way. - - [Footnote II-29: Knopendraayerye.] - -To the cloudy night succeeded a fine warm morning, and a picturesque -valley where handsome houses and mills cheered the spirits. The -mountains are filled with coal and several openings penetrating into -them, prove that this important fuel is not neglected. We finally came -to the left shore of the Ohio, and before us was Pittsburgh covered by a -black cloud of smoke. This city is situated at the confluence of the -Alleghany and Monongahela; both these rivers after their union form the -majestic Ohio. The water of the Monongahela is much more muddy than that -of the Alleghany, and both rivers are distinguished separately at a -great distance. The situation of Pittsburgh, as well as the Ohio valley, -resemble in some measure the environs of Liege, on the Meuse, with the -exception that the mountains of the Meuse are higher than these. We -passed through a little village called Birmingham, where are salt-works, -a glass-house, and iron-works, and arrived at the bridge which crosses -the Monongahela. This bridge is marked on the map as projected, but has -been finished for six or seven years. It is of wood resting on five -stone piers, and consists of six arches of very solid construction, -being covered and divided in two parts. A fine of fifteen dollars is -exacted of those who ride on horseback or carriage faster than a walk; -there are also foot-walks. Pittsburgh contains fifteen thousand -inhabitants--it has not a pleasing appearance, containing a great number -of wooden buildings, all of a smoky colour from the smoke continually -ascending from the numerous manufactories. Pittsburgh reminds you of an -English city, and therefore is called the American Birmingham. It was -nine o'clock, A. M. when we arrived, and took lodgings at the -Mansion-house, kept by Colonel Ramsay, a good hotel, and a very polite -landlord. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - _Pittsburgh.-- Economy.-- Mr. Rapp and his Society._ - - -I was scarcely settled here before I received a visit from two German -residents, Mr. Bonnhorst, a justice of the peace, and Mr. Volz, -a merchant. These gentlemen accompanied me to indicate the most -remarkable places and manufactures of the city. - -We visited a French glass-cutter, a very skilful man, who does a good -business; passed by the court-house, which is built opposite the -market-house in a half circle, and stopped at the glass factory of Mr. -Bakewell, in which fine flint glass is blown and ground. This crystal is -as clear, and nearly as good as the English. The processes used in such -a manufactory are known; but I wondered at the celerity with which the -different articles are made. Glass-cutting, as is well known, is a -difficult work, and requires skilful artists, which are still rare in -this country, and very dear. We visited a paper manufactory belonging to -Mr. Baldwin, which is arranged in the usual manner: thence we went to an -eminence which overlooks the city, called Grant's Hill, after an English -General Grant, who, during the seven years' war, was slaughtered here -along with his troops, by the Indians. - -The French, about the middle of the preceding century, had built a fort -on the point of land, immediately at the confluence of the two rivers, -called Duquesne. The English found this fortification annoying, and -hence arose the occurrences which subsequently produced the seven years' -war. This place has the highest interest to every European soldier. -General Grant wished to obtain possession of Fort Duquesne, and besieged -it from the height which still bears his name. He however kept a -miserable guard, was surprised, and paid with his own life, and that of -his men, for his negligence. From this hill, one may behold, at a view, -the three vallies of the Alleghany, Monongahela and Ohio. - -Rapp's society, after leaving New Harmony, chose a new situation which -they named Economy. This is eighteen miles from Pittsburgh. I intended -to visit it on the following day, but on this evening, (May 17,) I was -surprised by a visit from Mr. Frederick Rapp, adopted son of the founder -of the Society, who gave me an invitation to pay their establishment a -visit. We therefore went willingly at ten o'clock, next morning, -accompanied by Messrs. Bonnhorst and Volz, to Economy, whither Mr. -F. Rapp preceded us. - -We reached the Alleghany bridge, which is built of wood, roofed, and -supported upon five stone piers. The foot-walks are separated from the -wagon-road, and are open on one side, so that foot passengers are not -incommoded by the dust from the inside of the bridge. On the opposite -side is a little village called Alleghany town, laid out upon a great -scale, but on account of the proximity of Pittsburgh, it will with -difficulty attain any importance: in former years, the Indians, which -then thickly hovered about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio, -were a powerful obstacle to the increase of this place. On the heights -stand elegant country houses. Farther off ran the road, which was bad -enough, near to the right bank of the Ohio, through a wonderfully lovely -landscape. The valley strongly reminds one of the Maas Valley between -Namur and Luettich; it is beautifully cultivated; the farms lie close -together; the green hills, and groups of sugar maples and acacias have a -most beautiful appearance. The latter were beginning to blossom, and -filled the air with perfume.[II-30] In the Ohio we saw Neville's island, -which is about seven miles long and one broad, and is well cultivated. -Over two little creeks we passed upon well kept, roofed bridges, and -reached Economy at two, P. M. This place lies on a bluff fifty feet -above the low water mark of the Ohio. Behind the village are some hills -containing springs, whence the water is conveyed in pipes to Economy. - - [Footnote II-30: In the year 1826, I enjoyed _three_ springs; the - first about the end of February at New Orleans, the second at New - Harmony and Louisville, and the third in the state of Ohio, and - west Pennsylvania.] - -In approaching Economy we passed two burning brick-kilns; then we came -to a newly-built house, at which stood three men with horns, who began -to blow on our arrival. At the inn, a fine large frame house, we were -received by Mr. Rapp, the principal, at the head of the community. He is -a gray-headed, and venerable old man; most of the members emigrated -twenty-one years ago from Wurtemberg, along with him. After our first -greeting, we were conducted into a simple but tastefully arranged -apartment. We conversed together for a time, and then all set down to -dinner. The table was furnished with German dishes, over which reigned a -jocund heartiness. - -Having been prejudiced against Mr. Rapp and his society, by what I had -read, and more recently heard at New Harmony, I was much rejoiced at -having visited this place, to be better informed by personal -observation. Never have I witnessed a more truly patriarchal -constitution than here, and men's actions speak best for their -regulations, and for the concord prevailing among them. - -The elder Rapp is a large man of seventy years old, whose powers age -seems not to have diminished; his hair is gray, but his blue eyes -overshadowed by strong brows, are full of life and fire; his voice is -strong, and his enunciation full, and he knows how to give a peculiar -effect to his words by appropriate gesticulation. He speaks a Swabian -dialect, intermixed with a little English, to which the ear of a German -in the United States must become accustomed; generally, what he says is -clearly and plainly delivered. - -Rapp's system is nearly the same as Owen's. Community of goods, and all -members of the society to work together for the common interest, by -which the welfare of each individual is secured. Rapp does not hold his -society together by these hopes alone, but also by the tie of religion, -which is entirely wanting in Owen's community; and results declare that -Rapp's system is the better. No great results can be expected from -Owen's plan, and a sight of it is very little in its favour. What is -most striking and wonderful of all, is that so plain a man as Rapp can -so successfully bring and keep together a society of nearly seven -hundred persons, who in a manner honour him as a prophet. Equally so for -example in his power of government, which can suspend the intercourse of -the sexes. He found that the society was becoming too numerous, -wherefore the members agreed to live with their wives as sisters. All -nearer intercourse is forbidden, as well as marriage; both are -discouraged. However, some marriages constantly occur, and children are -born every year, for whom there is provided a school and teacher. The -members of the community manifest the very highest degree of veneration -for the elder Rapp, whom they address and treat as a father. - -Mr. Frederick Rapp is a large good-looking personage, of forty years of -age. He possesses profound mercantile knowledge, and is the temporal, as -his father is the spiritual chief of the community. All business passes -through his hands; he represents the society, which, notwithstanding the -change in the name of their residence, is called the _Harmony_ Society, -in all their dealings with the world. They found that the farming and -cattle-raising, to which the society exclusively attended in both their -former places of residence, were not sufficiently productive for their -industry, they therefore have established factories, which in this -country are very profitable, and have at present cotton and woollen -manufactories, a brewery, distillery, and flour-mill. They generally -drink, during their good German dinners, uncommonly good wine, which was -made on the Wabash, and brought thence by them: they left the worst, -as I have remarked, at New Harmony. - -After dinner we visited the village, which is very regularly arranged, -with broad rectangular streets, two parallel to the Ohio, and four -crossing them. On the 22d of May it will be but two years since the -forest was first felled upon which _Economy_ is built; the roots still -remaining in the streets are evidences of the short time that has -elapsed. It is astonishing what united and regulated human efforts has -accomplished in so short a time! - -Many families still live in log-houses, but some streets consist almost -entirely of neat, well-built frame houses, at proper distances from each -other, each house has a garden attached to it. The four-story cotton and -woollen factories are of brick; Mr. Rapp's dwelling-house, not yet -completed, and a newly-begun warehouse, are also to be of brick. The -log-houses stand in the rear of the line which the new houses are to -occupy in the street, so that when in time they wish to erect brick -buildings, it may be done without incommoding the tenants of the log -dwellings. Mr. Rapp's residence speaks rather freely against the -equality he preaches to his people, yet without exciting jealousy or -becoming a stumbling block. It consists of a principal building two -stories high, with two lower wings standing in the same line, and is -adorned with beautiful Philadelphia paper. At the back of the house is a -piazza and balcony. There is also a garden containing several acres with -flowers and vegetables, as well as a vineyard, situated on a -terrace-shaped half circle on the hill, ending in a bower. I especially -admired the beautiful tulips of this garden, in the midst of which is a -round basin with a noble spring. Mr. Rapp intends to build a temple -here, in which he will place a statue of Harmony: the statue is now -ready. It is the work of a carver in Philadelphia, and is a colossal -wooden figure, like the figure-head of a ship. In the garden are several -cottages, one of them is roofed with sods, and is used for a pastry -house. On the top is a sort of seat, where hereafter musicians are to -sit; within there is a temporary frame hall. Near the garden is the -green-house; this house, as well as the garden, is under the inspection -of a very pretty girl, Miss Hildegard, a relative of Mr. Rapp, and -possessed of much botanical knowledge. The women of this community have -all preserved their Swabian costume, even to their straw hats, and they -look very becomingly. - -In the cotton and woollen factories, all the machinery is set in motion -by a high-pressure engine of seventy horse-power, made in Pittsburgh. -The machine pumps the water from a well fifty feet deep, sunk for the -purpose. The community possesses some fine sheep, among which are many -Merino and Saxon: they purchase wool, however, from the surrounding -farmers, who have already begun to raise it to bring to Economy. As soon -as the wool is washed, it is picked by the old women of the community, -who work in the fourth story, whence it is reconveyed by a sort of -tunnel into the lower story. The wool is then separated according to its -quality into four classes, dyed together in the dye-house near the -manufactory, returned to the mill, where it is combed, coarsely spun, -and finally wrought into fine yarn by a machine similar to the spinning -jenny. As soon as spun, it is placed in the loom and wrought into cloth, -this is placed in a steam fulling-mill, so arranged that the steam from -the engine is made to answer the purpose of soap and fuller's earth, -which is a great saving. The cloth is shorn by means of a cylinder, upon -which a strong piece of steel turns. There is a model of this -shearing-machine in the patent-office at Washington. The woollen goods -most in demand in this country, are blue middling, grey mixed, -(principally used for pantaloons,) and red and white flannel cloths. The -red flannels are in great demand. - -The cotton factory is employed in spinning and weaving. The printing of -cottons has not yet been attempted, as the stamps cannot be procured -without great expense and difficulty, and the fashions of printed calico -are very changeable. The coloured cottons wove here are blue and white, -mixed; a stuff of this colour much in demand in Tennessee, is called -cassinet, the chain of which is of cotton, and the filling of wool. The -spinning machines are of the common kind, each of which have one hundred -and fifty spools at work. The first machine, which does the coarse -spinning, has been much improved, so as to save a great deal of manual -labour. There are also some power-looms here, though not many, neither -have they at present but one dressing machine. Many of the machines are -made in Pittsburgh; most of them, however, at Economy. As this -establishment has been so recently founded, it is natural enough that -but few machines should be prepared or in operation. The factories and -workshops are warmed during winter by means of pipes connected with the -steam-engine. All the workmen, and especially the females, have very -healthy complexions, and moved me deeply by the warm-hearted -friendliness with which they saluted the elder Rapp. I was also much -gratified to see vessels containing fresh, sweet-smelling flowers -standing on all the machines. The neatness which universally reigns -here, is in every respect worthy of praise. - -After visiting these interesting factories, we went to Mr. Rapp's -temporary dwelling, a good frame house, in order to take tea. I saw here -his unmarried, rather faded daughter, and his blooming grandchild, -Gertrude, the daughter of his only son, concerning whose death such -strange reports are circulated. The table was decorated with beautiful -silver plate, and Rapp appeared to be rejoiced, to indicate by its -possession, his well-merited prosperity. He commenced his business, as -he informed me, with very slender means; when he began at New Harmony, -he had to contend with the bitterest want, and more than once, had not -bread for his community. He sent Frederick Rapp to Pittsburgh, to -procure store goods, and absolutely necessary provisions, upon credit. -The latter found himself generally repulsed, and remained the whole -night awake in Pittsburgh, lamenting the cruelty of mankind. The elder -Rapp, who waited in vain for his return, went to his house, also -lamenting his situation, but not in the least doubtful of Providence, -who watched over him and his; nor was his confidence misplaced. The -heart of one Pittsburgh merchant was moved; he could not rest during the -night for having so scornfully dismissed Mr. Rapp. He sought him early -in the morning, took him to his store, and offered him whatever was -necessary upon credit. In this manner was the society rescued. This -worthy merchant some time after suffered in his business, and on this -unfortunate occasion, the grateful Harmony society assisted him in a -very generous manner. - -We spent the evening likewise with Mr. Rapp. He collected the musical -members of the society, and entertained us with music. Miss Gertrude -played upon the piano, and three of the girls sang; the other -instruments were violins, a violoncello and two flutes. The music was -really not so good as we had heard in the preceding autumn at Bethlehem; -but gave us much entertainment. Mr. Bonnhorst also delighted us with his -fine performance on the violin. The music was principally directed by a -German physician, named Mueller, who belongs to the community, and also -has charge of the school. - -The next morning we went with both the Messrs. Rapp through the village. -We visited the distillery, in which good whiskey is made, which is in -much demand in the neighbouring places. None is made use of in the -village itself, as the members of the society have mutually agreed to -abstain from the use of distilled liquors. This distillery feeds many -swine and horned cattle, which produce the society a handsome profit. -The beer brewery from lack of barley, made beer of wheat; this brewery -was not in operation. The flour-mill, not yet completed, is to be worked -by a steam-engine, and is to be arranged like the Baltimore steam-mill. -In a short time four sets of stones will be in operation, and an oil -mill is also to be connected therewith. As careful managers, the -directors of the society, in the upper part of the mill, which is five -stories high, put away grain enough for a year, in order to be secured -against scarcity, which is even in this happy country much to be -dreaded. In the mill as well as in the factories, in each story there is -a great iron cylinder, filled with water, which is thus at hand in case -of fire. The society possesses a fire-engine of their own making, and -have organized a fire company to work it. - -We examined the workshops of the black and locksmiths, which are under -the same shed, and then the joiner's and cooper's; we especially -observed the marks of actual and filial respect which is borne towards -the elder Rapp by his young people. The warehouse was also shown to us, -where the articles made here for sale or use are preserved; and I -admired the excellence of all. The articles for the use of the society -are kept by themselves, as the members have no private possessions, and -every thing is in common, so must they in relation to all their personal -wants be supplied from the common stock. The clothing and food they make -use of, is of the best quality. Of the latter, flour, salt meat, and all -long keeping articles are served out monthly; fresh meat on the -contrary, and whatever spoils readily, is distributed whenever it is -killed, according to the size of the family, &c. As every house has a -garden, each family raises its own vegetables, and some poultry, and -each family has also its own bakeoven. For such things as are not raised -in Economy, there is a store provided, from which members with the -knowledge of the directors, may purchase what is necessary, and the -people of the vicinity may also do the same. The warehouse and store are -for the present in wooden buildings, but in a short time the requisite -brick buildings will be erected. - -Under Mr. Rapp's new house we found a fine roomy cellar, in which he -gave us a very good glass of old Rhenish wine, and also some good wine -made on the Wabash, of which he had twenty-one casks. I tasted a very -dark and powerful wine, made from wild grapes, which grew on an island -in the Wabash. For the first three years it is said that this wine -cannot be drank on account of its sourness; this has been in casks for -eight years and is so much improved, that it now is similar to old -Hungarian wine. - -As we passed along we saw a small deer park, in which the elder Rapp had -amused himself in taming some bucks and does, which would eat out of his -hand. We saw also here a noble young moose deer, which was as large as a -stout ox. He is also very tame, but during the _season_ is dangerous. - -Mr. Rapp finally conducted us into the factory again, and said that the -girls had especially requested this visit, that I might hear them sing. -When their work is done they collect in one of the factory rooms, to the -number of sixty or seventy, to sing spiritual and other songs. They have -a peculiar hymn-book, containing many hymns from the Wurtemberg -psalm-book, and others written by the elder Rapp. The latter are truly -in prose, but have been arranged to old tunes by the girls.[II-31] The -elder Rapp is very fond of psalmody, and the girls must devote -themselves considerably thereto, since Gertrude is a proficient and -receives musical instruction. A chair was placed for the old patriarch, -who sat amidst the girls and they commenced a hymn in a very delightful -manner. It was naturally symphonious and exceedingly well arranged. The -girls sang four pieces, at first sacred, but afterwards by Mr. Rapp's -desire, of gay character. With real emotion did I witness this -interesting scene. - - [Footnote II-31: In this hymn-book are some pieces, which, if the - perfect child-like innocence of these maidens be not recollected, - might appear rather scandalous. For instance, there is a literal - translation of the song of Solomon, among others.] - -We had an excellent dinner in Mr. Rapp's house, and the musical members -of the society took this opportunity to play their best in front of it. -The band consisted of twelve musicians, and performed very well, among -them were two who played bugles. Both the Rapp's, and especially the -elder, advised me strongly to settle in their neighbourhood, and -purchase at ten miles hence, the Beaver Falls on Beaver creek, for -twenty-five thousand dollars. There I might establish iron works, said -they, and make a great deal of money; they and their society would -assist me in every possible manner! - -With peculiar feelings we took leave of the friendly and industrious -Economy, at three o'clock. No payment was received at the tavern, and we -set out through the same beautiful places by which we had come towards -Pittsburgh. Mr. F. Rapp, who had business there, followed us, -accompanied by Gertrude. During this ride I had another opportunity of -admiring the beautiful rocks as we passed by, and particularly the -caverns, probably made in them by water, which remind one of the little -caves near Ems, on the Lahn. - -We stopped at Alleghany town to examine the new and unfinished -penitentiary, which is arranged according to the system of solitary -confinement. The whole is surrounded by a high hexagonal wall. The -principal building, which is of sandstone, is three stories high. This -is to contain the residence of the superintendent, the offices and -infirmary. On two of the other angles of the hexagon are high round -towers, from which the interior of the house can be overlooked, where -the guards are to be stationed. Behind the principal building in the -court-yard, stands a smaller building, containing, besides many cells -for the convicts, the kitchen and wash-house. In a circle which is -interrupted by the above mentioned buildings, stands a one-story -building, containing convict cells, which has one row of entrances near -the inner circular yard, and the other towards the space enclosed by the -hexagonal walls. Each cell is eight feet long by six broad. It contains -a bench, and receives its light through an opening secured by an -external iron grate; within this is a wooden door, which the prisoner -can, at his pleasure, open or shut. Before each cell is a very small -open space. The cells are floored, and provided with iron rings to which -the prisoners may be secured if necessary. These unfortunates have -neither light nor room enough to work; I was informed that each prisoner -was to be allowed to enjoy the fresh air for fifteen minutes daily. In -this way, this new system can scarcely have any other result than that -of destroying the health of the convicts. The prison contains one -hundred and ninety-six cells, and it is said, that next autumn the first -victims are to be sacrificed to a mistaken philanthropy.[II-32] The -expense of maintaining these prisoners, who are not permitted to earn -any thing, will necessarily be considerable. - - [Footnote II-32: [It is to be hoped that the able and luminous - report of the commissioners appointed by the state, to make - inquiries on the subject of penitentiary discipline, will be - sufficient to correct the glaring errors of this _new system_; - which like most of the new systems of the present day, is clearly - proved thereby to be more specious than beneficial. The evidence - accumulated by the commissioners is of a character to satisfy - every candid mind, not chained to the support of a particular - theory, that solitary confinement without labour, is unequal in - operation, inadequate to the end proposed, and promises to be as - destructive to human life as it is discordant to humane - feelings.]--TRANS.] - -On the 20th of May I went with Mr. F. Rapp, who still remained in -Pittsburgh with Gertrude, to visit some manufacturing establishments. -We crossed the Monongahela near its mouth, in a skiff, to a salt-work on -the left bank. With the earth-borer invented in England, and improved in -America, they found salt water at the depth of a hundred feet. As this -water was thought to be too weak, a pipe was placed in the well, and -bored in another place, until at the depth of a hundred feet a -sufficiently strong brine was obtained. The salt water collected and -rose to the top. It is now pumped out by a small steam-engine into a -boiler, where it is boiled for four hours. It is then poured into a -large vat, to the depth of eight inches. It stands in this vat four -hours; a little alum is added to precipitate earthy impurities. Hence, -by a cock situated above the level of the precipitated matters, the -fluid is drawn off into various kettles, in which the now pure brine is -again boiled for four hours. Now the white salt begins to form, and is -skimmed off with large iron ladles. This is a very simple process, saves -expense and room, and appears to me far better than our great -salt-houses. In returning to the city, we saw many iron-works, of which -there are eight in the city and vicinity. One of them is a nail factory; -the nail-cutting machine acts from above, and the workmen holds the rod -to be cut with a pair of tongs, and has to move it at every stroke; -a hammer strikes the nail which falls through in such a manner as to -form the head. We also saw a steam-engine manufactory of considerable -extent. I had seen such an establishment previously in England, but as -most of the machines are made here in parts, one cannot see a great -deal. What most interested me was a double lever, by which the holes are -punched in iron plates for the boilers, which are riveted together; -a work which requires a great degree of exactness. - -We next visited the Union Rolling-mill, near the city, on the bank of -the Monongahela; here also is a nail factory. In the patent-office at -Washington I saw upwards of seventy different models of nail-making -machines. In this factory they were cut by horizontally moving shears, -and at the same time the heads were formed by a hammer. A workman can -make a hundred and fifty pounds of the smaller kind of nails daily. The -preparation of the iron plates from which cut nails are made is very -interesting. The crude pig iron is made white hot in the furnace; it is -thence taken and rolled seven times through, between two iron cylinders, -which are screwed closer together after every revolution. It is then -passed seven times more between two narrow cylinders, which are also -screwed closer after each time the plate passes. By this time the pig is -reduced to a plate less than a quarter of an inch thick. This plate is -again made red-hot, and finally passed between two cylinders, which are -just as broad as the length of the nails to be cut. The piece in the -upper cylinder passes directly in one cut to the lower, where the broad -red-hot plate is cut into as many strips as are wanted. The very -smallest of these are used for making wire. This machinery is set in -motion by a large steam-engine, which works the bellows for the -different furnaces and forges. The whole reminded me of the colossal -iron-works I saw three years ago in South Wales. - -Mr. Rapp accompanied me also to a sieve-maker, who weaves iron and brass -wire, &c. which is done in a loom something like, but longer than a -cloth-loom, in order to extend the wire properly. This one was -twenty-five feet long. Our last visit was to an iron foundry, where, -during our stay, different articles, grates and smoothing irons were -cast. The smoothing irons were cast four in a mould, and while still -red-hot were knocked asunder. - -In the evening we went to the United States arsenal, two miles from the -city, on the Philadelphia road; it is under the command of Major -Churchill of the artillery, who received us at his house and introduced -us to his wife, and four lovely children. This establishment contains a -place of about four acres, lying between the road and the river -Alleghany: the front consists of a large four-story main building, of -sandstone, and two smaller buildings, one of which is the residence of -the directors and the other of the sub-directors. On entering the -court-yard, one sees that the side of the quadrangle facing the front -contains three buildings not yet inhabited, which are barracks, and four -others, workshops for the repair of arms, &c. opposite to these are two -buildings in which are the smith and wheelwright shops. Except the three -fronts, all the buildings are of bricks. The arms are kept in the main -building, where there may be about twenty thousand stand; most of them -are packed in chests: those not packed up, are very tastefully arranged -in the hall, as trophies, &c. An arch of steel is formed over this hall -by eighteen hundred muskets, which has a very beautiful appearance. Both -the adjoining buildings are connected with the centre by roofed -passages, under which are kept cannon of various calibers; most of these -are English, and trophies of the late Commodore PERRY'S victory on Lake -Erie. - -The 21st of May, was Sunday, and at twelve o'clock, I went with Mr. -Bonnhorst to the Episcopal church. I have generally remarked that most -of the fashionable people in the United States, either belong to the -Episcopal church, or at least prefer to attend service there on Sunday. -It is in Pittsburgh _style_ to go to this church, while it would be -unfashionable to visit the Methodist meeting, to which most of the lower -class of people belong. It is a luxury to have a pew in the Episcopal -church, and an especial politeness to invite a stranger to take a seat -in it. I sat in Mr. Bonnhorst's pew, which was rather full, and the air -hot. In consequence of this, I was much incommoded by the frequent -kneelings, as well as by the long psalms, which were sung standing. -We had a very good discourse from a rather youthful preacher upon the -subject of the Trinity, this being Trinity Sunday. The service lasted -two hours. - -Afterwards we paid a visit to Mr. Baldwin, a distinguished lawyer. This -gentleman was formerly a member of congress, and had paper and iron -factories in the vicinity; he however speculated largely, and in five -weeks became a bankrupt. However, Mr. Baldwin lost nothing in public -estimation; his practice as a lawyer produced him a very handsome -income. He walked with us to the point where the Alleghany and Ohio -unite, the former situation of Fort Duquesne, of which no trace now -remains. The English did nothing for this fort, as in the year 1759, it -was evacuated by the French, who could no longer obtain aid from Canada. -The English then demolished the fort, and built one of earth, somewhat -in rear of the old one, called Fort Pitt, whence the name of the city is -derived. Fort Pitt, of which some remains of the walls and a barracks, -now form part of an iron work, appears to have been a pentagon resting -upon both rivers. During the American revolutionary war, this fort, -which was no longer of importance, was abandoned by the English. - -Next day Messrs. Craft and Volz, accompanied me to the cotton factory of -Adams, Allen & Co. Mr. Craft is one of the principal proprietors of the -firm, which does an extensive business, notwithstanding its recent -establishment. The building is of brick, four stories high, and has two -wings standing at right angles. This factory employs two hundred people -daily. All the machinery is worked by a steam-machine of seventy-five -horse-power. The machinery is similar to that in Economy, and the -fabrics made at Economy are copied from this factory, &c. I saw nothing -particularly new, except the machine which picks the cotton, and thus -saves a great deal of filthy manual labour. During winter the factory is -warmed by steam, throughout. - -After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata -foundry, belonging to Mr. Schoeneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men -were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in -this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the -year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the -work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the -Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed -to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast -smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden -wheels, turned by a horse-mill. - -We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing -all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western -industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are -brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are -chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for -cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure -white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed -calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven -dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff -for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; -fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still -in its infancy. - -Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a -glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of -the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome -fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of -Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - _Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city._ - - -On the 23d of May, at eight o'clock, we commenced our journey to -Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it -pleased me in every respect, and would have pleased me still more had I -continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, -the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, -I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves -Ramsay's hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses -but twice, at M'Miller's and New Alexandria. These changes are too -distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in -Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. -The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, -and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a -dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and -still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were -almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, -going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle -there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and -northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly -the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here -the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much -disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the -change. - -We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New -Alexandria and Blairsville--all unimportant. The streams were the -Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden -bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our -leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with -much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains -of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, -and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It -was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still -more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of -cultivation. It was eleven o'clock at night before we reached Armagh, -as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o'clock, -A. M. we continued our journey. - -We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, -Blair's Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, -we came to another of the parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. -I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh -and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the -blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These -honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed -this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had -not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined -with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on this mountain, -were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden -trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, -were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with -their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels -itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of -the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to -be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten. - -After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a -tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses -for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of -about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease -than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite -deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, -dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After -leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany -mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed -is called Blair's Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand -feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is -still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means -steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, -which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is -perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of -such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which -adjoins it. - -After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same -remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, -where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group -of good houses, Blair's Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. -This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, -between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is -said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made -at Harper's Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, -and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close -to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, -railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often -passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false -step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our -unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we -remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to -be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable -manner. - -Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side -by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain. Parallel with the -latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this -valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, -Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the -valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its -passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called -Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named -Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky -basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. -The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which -it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could -distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we -passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces -its way. About nine o'clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we -passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the -croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It -resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young -steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred -inhabitants. - -We intended to leave Alexandria at three o'clock, A. M., but the driver -overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o'clock. We -rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; -we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few -miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but -after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior's ride, we returned seven -miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed -bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; -and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general -were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between -Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack's mountains, at the -place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally -cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice -by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the -left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack's mountains -rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the -Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in -Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, -and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, -where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the -Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. -The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the -river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, the high -Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to -Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till -ten o'clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, -though I heard it was very handsome. - -May 26th, we arose at two o'clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant -seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, -Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first -the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the -Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen's Ferry. The water was low, -so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is -already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the -navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we -now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, -Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick's hill to Clark's Ferry, on the -Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the -Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two -high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have -been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the -left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark's Ferry, we had an -extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by -such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake -George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes -place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, -which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave -mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the -Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high -Mount Peter on the other shore. - -At Clark's Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water -was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove -mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna -with its two extremities, not far from Clark's Ferry, and again eight -miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on -the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called -Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run -parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, -afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is -said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a -turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of -which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the -Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of -mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at -Nazareth, then at Harper's Ferry, as I went to the west, and last of -all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to -Charlotteville. - -Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a -cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two -hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the -southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, -and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position -between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may -contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat -of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with -the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding -the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two -buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their -entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand -in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola -sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the -representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a -semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story -contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, -the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a -private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to -form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such -different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are -covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed -with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and -contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden -bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the -river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not -united by mortar, but by iron clamps. - -At two o'clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six -miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was -better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage -quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine -miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome -wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the -Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, -celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by -descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well -cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was -particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the -dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, -whereas the barns are generally built of stone, at least the lower parts -containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn -is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and -on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the -stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the -breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded -by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. -The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near -several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by -means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie -creeks. - -The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm -fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I -had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten -o'clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our -ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded -particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen -very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds. - -I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt -the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; -secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is -very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, -which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took -advantage of the cool morning to view the place. - -Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six -thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each -other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with -side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of -brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame -building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, -in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not -far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian -curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame -gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it -could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the -inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who -conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best -rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take -home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near -the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of -the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent -amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed -wooden bridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles -those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in -Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and -united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, -resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a -single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, -among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, -whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a -Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, -to cool wine. - -On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o'clock, A. M. The -turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles -an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o'clock in the -evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and -Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, -Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a -number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near -which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of -the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the -whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on -which we rode for several miles. - -The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered -with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences -were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built -hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy -poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is -classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We -passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped -with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we -proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for -the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome -attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia -we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house. - -Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. -During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were -renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the -same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. -Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and -returned to his friends at Washington. - -I rode to the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, with my old friend Mr. Roberts Vaux, -the philanthropic Quaker, and with Mr. Niederstetter, charge d'affaires -of the king of Prussia. I had before omitted to visit this -establishment, as the pupils were just leaving their old temporary -dwelling in the city, to move in their newly-built house. This house is -large and massive. It consists of a principal building, which is reached -by means of a portal, decorated with four doric columns; and of two -wings behind it, one of which is inhabited by the boys, and the other by -the girls. There were at that time eighty pupils in the institution, -fifty maintained by the state of Pennsylvania, thirteen by their -families, five by the state of New Jersey, and twelve by the institution -itself. It has now subsisted for six years; at the beginning it was -founded by voluntary contributions and subscriptions; the legislature of -Pennsylvania afterwards gave eight thousand dollars, and the state -annually pays one hundred and fifty dollars for every pupil which it has -placed here. The direction of the institution consists of a president, -four vice presidents, among which was Mr. Vaux, a treasurer, -a secretary, and at this time, twenty-three directors. A principal -teacher, Mr. L. Weld, four tutors, a matron, and two physicians preside -over the house. - -Mr. Weld had passed a long time at Hartford in Connecticut, and had -learned the method of instruction in the deaf and dumb asylum at that -place, which he practises here with great success. He was teaching one -of the lower classes when we arrived. He dictated to the pupils -something on subjects of natural history, which they wrote with great -rapidity on large slates. We put several questions to them, which they -answered with much sagacity. Mr. Niederstetter asked them if they could -form any idea of music; one of the boys answered, he well knew that -there were tones, and that several tones systematically combined made a -sound, but what this was, and how all this was connected together, he -could form no idea. In other rooms, other pupils were engaged in writing -and cyphering. One of them had made much progress in crayon drawing, and -was just working at a portrait of President Adams. The boys learn -trades, several were weaving, others were making shoes, &c., the girls -learn to sew and knit. The clothes, which the pupils wear in the house, -are all made there. They have a common eating room, and each sex has -separate sleeping rooms, where two sleep in one bed; besides, each wing -contains a separate infirmary. Every where I saw the most exemplary -cleanliness and order prevail; the pupils had a very healthy appearance. - -I conversed with some of them in writing; one of them asked me, what was -my favourite study, I answered mathematics. Upon this he wrote to me, -that he was also pleased with this study, but found no opportunity of -making great progress in it. In order to teach the pupils the principles -of arithmetic, a machine is used similar to the Russian. A vegetable -garden behind, and at the sides of the building, which was then -preparing, was intended to serve also as a place of recreation for the -pupils. I could not forbear making to Mr. Weld an especial expression of -the great pleasure which this institution and his method of instruction -gave me. - -I saw the Academy of Fine Arts last autumn, but went there again, as the -exhibition of paintings had been opened. This collection, however, -consisted merely of portraits, and these were rather indifferent. In -general, the fine arts, as I believe has already been mentioned, do not -yet flourish in the United States to a great degree; perhaps this is to -be attributed to the taste of the Americans, which they inherited from -their English ancestors, and which does not appear to be very great for -painting.[II-33] But I rather believe, and this idea president Jefferson -gave me, that the little encouragement which the fine arts receive in -this country is to be attributed to the equal division of property among -the children, so that in large families an estate cannot be long kept -together. - - [Footnote II-33: [This is a very erroneous idea. The taste for - painting and music has not been cultivated, generally, in this - country, on account of the condition of property and society, - which demand of Americans a primary devotion to things absolutely - necessary and useful. As wealth becomes more accumulated, artists - will be encouraged; and then we have no fear of their being long - inferior to the artists of any other nation.]--TRANS.] - -I saw also, in company with Messrs. Vaux and Niederstetter, the mint of -the United States, which is established here. In the year 1793, when -Philadelphia was still the seat of government of the United States, this -mint was located in a newly-built private house, and it is as yet the -only one in the United States. The processes in this mint are very -simple, and but few improvements are yet adapted, which so greatly -distinguish the mints of London and Milan. They were doing but little -when we came; we saw nothing but the stretching of the bars of silver -between cylinders, like those in the rolling mills at Pittsburgh, and -the stamping of the pieces, which was done by means of a contrivance -similar to that by which rivet-holes are made in the iron plates for -steam-engine boilers. We saw, moreover, the cutting of half dollar -pieces, which is done by means of a stamp, worked by two men. A third -stands by to place the uncoined pieces in a box, which are then brought -under the stamp by a particular contrivance. After they are coined, they -fall by means of this contrivance into a box which stands below. Since -1803, no larger silver coins are made than half dollars, as the dollars -were immediately bought up and exported to China for trade, because the -merchants there will take no smaller coins than dollars. We saw also a -collection of medals stamped here, some of which, particularly those -which were struck after naval victories, are very well finished. One -side represents the bust of the naval hero in whose honour the medal was -struck, and the reverse represents the action itself. A golden medal was -struck after the victory of General Jackson at New Orleans, one side -exhibiting the bust of the general, and the reverse a figure -representing the United States pointing to the Muse of History, writing -on a shield the name of New Orleans. The medal which the Agricultural -Society bestows at the annual cattle show, is also handsome. It is to be -regretted, that all the medals, which were struck before president -Monroe's administration, are missing in this collection. The mint itself -is very small, and its boundaries are still more limited by a twelve -horse-power steam-engine. No application, however, is made to congress -for a larger and better building, as it is feared that congress might -then propose to remove the whole establishment of the mint to -Washington. - -We visited the Episcopalian church yard, in which lies Dr. Franklin's -grave, who died in the same year, and rests in the same grave with his -wife. It is near the wall, and covered with a large white marble slab, -with the following inscription:-- - - Benjamin } Franklin - et } 1790. - Deborah } - -I confess these simple words appear to me more eloquent and noble, and -spoke to me in a more affecting manner, than any encomiastic epitaph -could have done. The celebrated Professor Rush, father of the present -secretary of the treasury, is also buried here. This grave-yard, like -the rest in Philadelphia, is in the midst of the city, an evil of which -much is said, but which it would be difficult to remedy. - -Another visit was made to Peale's Museum. I found, however, nothing new, -except a terrible rattlesnake, which was alive, and with two smaller -harmless snakes, formed an extremely ugly ball in a glass case. Its -rattles could not be exactly seen, as they were covered by its flat and -broad body. The body is full of scales, and the head uncommonly broad, -in comparison with the head of other snakes. It was almost stiff, and -only moved the head when any one approached too closely. It had handsome -bright black eyes, and there was a quite small triangular aperture in -the upper lip, through which its long, black, forked tongue was -projected, when irritated. I could not make it open its mouth to see its -teeth. They told me that it was fed with mice, which it first bit, and -after they had died in convulsions, swallowed. Among the many gentlemen -who paid me visits, I mention only Mr. Autenrieth, of Lehigh county, as -he gave me much interesting information concerning the coal mines on the -Lehigh, and at Mauch Chunk, which I intended to visit in a few days. But -I met with a very agreeable surprise in the appearance of the excellent -General Bernard; this worthy officer, whose acquaintance forms one of my -most pleasing recollections of the United States, was to pass but two -days in Philadelphia, in order to advise with a canal commission. -General Bernard is one of the few meritorious men, of whom one hears -nobody speak otherwise than well; and if he had, in an incomprehensible -manner, any enemies, his amiable character would at the first meeting -change them into friends. - -I again met with a very friendly reception on the part of Mr. Arnold -Halbach, and his brother. The former had the kindness to attend me in -several of my excursions, as far as his extensive business would allow. -He is a patron of the fine arts, and as such, took me to two painters of -this place, Eicholz and Birch. The former, from Lancaster, is the son of -a coppersmith, in which occupation he himself worked, but having a -talent for portrait painting, he has devoted himself thereto with much -success. His portraits have the merit of strong resemblance, and are -also tolerably well, and correctly painted. The other artist, Birch, -possesses a very fine talent for landscape painting, and particularly -for sea-pieces. I had hoped to meet with views of the United States at -his house, but was disappointed. Mr. Birch told me that landscape -painters found so little encouragement in the United States, that they -lost all courage to design handsome scenes in their native country. His -sea-pieces are very handsome, but none are entirely completed. He is -particularly happy in representing storms. Whilst Mr. Eicholz, with -moderate talents, does much business, Mr. Birch, with great talent, -is often a prey to severe distress.[II-34] - - [Footnote II-34: [The reason is, that the portrait painter - ministers to the gratification of personal vanity, or self-love, - and the landscape painter to a refined taste. As the proportion of - egotists to men of refined and cultivated taste, is somewhat less - than a million to one, it is easy to see which branch of the arts - will receive most attention.]--TRANS.] - -I saw at the house of a dealer in looking-glasses, a gallery of pieces -by living painters, among others, of Sully. One of these paintings is -really terrific. It represents a man, who, with his horse, is attacked -and entwined by an anaconda. The expression of pain in the horse is very -well represented, but the countenance of the man, as well as the whole -subject, is horrid. Few of the paintings were very remarkable; I was -most pleased with one by Birch: a boat in a storm, in which the crew -were saving themselves from a wreck. - -I inquired, in company with Mr. Niederstetter after maps, but the result -was not very satisfactory. It is very difficult to furnish maps of the -United States, as they have not yet been trigonometrically surveyed, and -the only astronomical designation of places and maps are founded on -common surveys. At a dinner given by General Cadwalader, commander of -the Philadelphia militia, and one of the most distinguished citizens, -among other new acquaintances, I made also that of General Harrison, of -Cincinnati, senator of the United States. He had been a general in the -army during the last war, and defeated the English General Proctor, -on the boundaries of Canada, on which occasion, the celebrated Indian -chief, Tecumseh lost his life. But the general, to the great regret and -disadvantage of the army, resigned, on account of a dispute with the -then secretary of war, Armstrong. - -At a party, which consisted of perhaps thirty persons, I was much -questioned about my journey, and particularly about my stay at New -Harmony. Mr. Owen's system does not meet with much favour here, and it -is not thought that his society will last long. Much offence is taken at -its irreligious principles, and much surprise is manifested, that Mr. -M'Clure, as an old, learned and sensible man, should have been so -captivated by this new system, as to declare in a meeting of a learned -society, when a proposition was made to buy a new building, that they -should only wait a couple of years, till this new social system should -be extended over the country, as land would then be so cheap in the -cities, that it might be purchased almost for nothing. - -I must not neglect to mention a little present from Mr. Vaux. It is a -snuff-box, made of the wood of the elm tree at Kensington,[II-35] under -which William Penn made the treaty of 1682, with the Indians. It is very -simple, and decorated merely with a silver medal, on which is inscribed -"Penn's treaty, 1682," and below, "unbroken faith." - - [Footnote II-35: Kensington was formerly a distinct village, on - the Delaware above Philadelphia; the city has now extended thus - far, so that it now belongs to the city. The tree was some years - ago struck by lightning and destroyed.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - _Journey from Philadelphia to New York.-- Coal-mines of Pottsville - and Mauch Chunk.-- Bethlehem._ - - -I left Philadelphia, June 3d, at four o'clock in the morning, to see the -coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains, and then pay another visit to my -friends in Bethlehem; after which, I must repair to New York, as to my -great sorrow, the time for my embarkation approached. I rode fifty-two -miles in a mail stage to Reading. Notwithstanding a gust on the previous -evening, it was again very warm, and on the latter part of the journey -particularly, we were much incommoded by dust. - -At first we took the same way, which I had taken last autumn to -Bethlehem, through Sunville, Germantown, and Chesnut Hill. The present -appearance of the country was very different from its aspect at that -rough season of the year. Every thing was now alive and green, and the -numerous and elegant gardens of Germantown, were filled with the -beautiful flowers. Although this place is three miles long, it presents -no tedious uniformity. The various country-seats of the wealthy -inhabitants of Philadelphia, which are tolerably close to each other, -rather present an agreeable change. Chesnut Hill affords a very -extensive view over the surrounding handsome and thickly inhabited -country. The valley of the Schuylkill appeared to particularly great -advantage, which by means of dams and canals, made near shallow places, -is navigable till beyond the Blue Mountains. Beyond Chesnut Hill, we -left the above-mentioned road and turned on the left to Norristown, -a very romantic place on the left side of the Schuylkill. Before -reaching this, we passed extensive marble quarries, which are about one -hundred feet deep, and form very picturesque hollows. The blocks are -raised by means of machines, worked by horses. This marble is gray, and -is used in the fire-places of most of the respectable houses in -Philadelphia. Several of the mile-stones on our road were also made of -this marble. The cuttings are partly burned to lime and partly thrown on -the turnpike. The turnpike, as an American one, was on this route -tolerably good. - -Beyond Norristown we again rode through a very handsome country. Between -Chesnut Hill and the marble quarries, we passed a good stone bridge over -the Wissahiccon creek, which turns many mills. Between Norristown and -Trap, a small place through which the road runs, we passed two other -creeks, the Skippar and Perkiomen creeks, and at Pottsgrove, over a -third, called Monataway creek, which here empties into the Schuylkill. -The road then went over a hilly country through Warrensburg and -Exertown, and over the Mannokesy and Rush creeks. At last we saw -Reading, in a lovely valley. It had a military aspect, as a company of -volunteers had held a review to-day, and were recreating themselves at a -tavern near the town, after their toils. At five o'clock we reached -Trautman's tavern, where we found good lodgings. - -Reading contains about five thousand inhabitants; it consists of a long -principal street, which is very wide, in the middle, and of several -other streets, which cross it at right angles. The place depends on -agriculture and some manufactories. Many hats, especially felt hats, are -made here, which are sent in great numbers to the slave states and the -West Indies. I here visited Mr. Hiester, former governor of -Pennsylvania. This worthy old man bears his age, which is seventy-four -years, remarkably well. He took me to his son-in-law, Dr. Muhlenberg, -the German Lutheran minister of this place, son of the celebrated -naturalist and learned man of this name, who died about ten years ago. -We took tea at his house, and then walked to the Schuylkill, over which -a covered wooden bridge led. We saw also a part of the canal, on which -coal is brought to Philadelphia from the upper parts of the Schuylkill. -Here at Reading, this canal ascends four locks, which appear to be built -in a tolerably solid manner. It made a strange impression on me to hear -every person speak German. On the road from Philadelphia, I had every -where heard this language; but in Reading scarcely any thing else than -German is spoken, and better than I had heard in the state of Ohio, -or in Lancaster. Reading possesses a good German school under Dr. -Muhlenberg's direction, in which this language is taught in its purity. -He himself has a numerous and selected library of English and German -books. Two canal boats run at present alternately every week between -Philadelphia and Reading, in which about one hundred travellers may be -accommodated. They leave the one place at three o'clock in the morning, -and reach the other about five o'clock in the evening. - -I hired at Reading a carriage with two horses, for three dollars a day, -in order to visit the coal-mines beyond the Blue Mountains. I left -Reading at seven o'clock in the morning, and rode thirty-six miles to -Pottsville. We passed over a turnpike, which was occasionally very -rough. It several times led us in the neighbourhood of the canal, the -surface of which is about thirty feet wide on an average. It is lead by -means of wooden boxes over several deep streams. Between Reading and -Pottsville there are about eighty locks, several of which we passed; at -one time I saw seven together, which formed a very pleasing sight. About -noon we reached a little German place, called Hamburg, half way to -Pottsville, at the foot of the Blue Mountains, not far from the -Schuylkill and its canals. On the road to Hamburg, we passed but one -creek which had a name, Maiden creek. I dined at Hamburg, and met, as it -was Sunday, a number of idlers, all Germans, assembled in the tavern. -Several Germans of education in the United States, made the remark to -me, which I found but too true, that next to the Irish, the Germans form -the roughest portion of the emigrants. The truth of this remark again -forced itself on my attention in Hamburg, and especially in the case of -a young doctor, who had formerly studied in several German universities, -and gave vent to his giddiness in a vulgar manner. It was the first time -in the United States that the _affectation_ of republicanism arrested my -attention. - -Not far beyond Hamburg, we came to a defile where the Schuylkill forces -a passage through the Blue Mountains. This narrow vale was very -romantic, and my interest in the scene was greatly increased by the -numberless blooming kalmias, improperly called laurel, the rhododendra, -which offered a splendid sight amidst the rich vegetation of chesnut -trees, butternuts, oaks, elms, sycamores, blooming tulip-trees, and -sumacs. How frequently I thought of the great pleasure which my father -would enjoy, if he could travel with me among these mountains, and -admire the treasures of the vegetable world with his experienced eye! -The way led along a mountain over the Schuylkill, which lay deep below -me. It forms here a curve, and is made navigable by means of dams, as -there was too little room to continue the canal on the side of it. After -we had passed the chief defile of the Blue Mountains, we left for a time -the navigable Schuylkill with its canal, and passed through a narrow -vale, through which the little Schuylkill flows, which is covered with -kalmias, rhododendrons, and some azaleas. Afterwards came another vale, -formed by Scrub Hill and Scollop Hill; then a long mountain, called -Limestone Ridge. Beyond this mountain we reached Orwigsburg, which, -entirely enclosed by mountains, occupies a romantic situation; it is -built in the form of a cross, and contains about eight hundred -inhabitants. We rode farther, through a valley covered with trees, again -reached the Schuylkill with its canal, and at length arrived at -Pottsville. - -This place is scarcely to be found in any map, as it arose but three or -four years ago, and owes its existence to the neighbouring coal-mines. -The navigation of the Schuylkill commences here; this is the place where -the vessels which navigate this canal and river, small keel-boats, are -built. A couple of saw-mills are erected for this purpose, as well as a -high furnace, in which the iron ore found in the neighbourhood is -smelted. The coal-mines are worked under the direction of the Schuylkill -Coal Company, which has made the Schuylkill navigable at its own -expense, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia and New York. -A bushel of coal, weighing eighty pounds, is sold at Philadelphia for -twenty-five cents. The river was made navigable only about eighteen -months ago, and it is only since this time, that they have commenced to -dig out coal. - -Pottsville consists of a single street, lying in a somewhat narrow vale -on the right shore of the Schuylkill, and owes its name to a Mr. Pott, -who commenced the first iron works. The entrances of two coal-mines are -seen on the shore opposite the place; there are some which, however, are -not worked on account of scarcity of labourers. I became acquainted in -our tavern with a Mr. Baker from New York, who is one of the chief men -in this undertaking, as well as with a Mr. Taylor, editor of the paper -called the Miner's Journal, which bears a good character. - -I rode with these two gentlemen to the coal-mines, two miles and a half -from Pottsville, and not far from Norwegian creek. The coal appears -almost on the surface of the ground, in which a certain dark colour -denotes its presence. No one thoroughly understands the business of -coal-mining, and therefore it has hitherto been conducted in a very -unsystematic and expensive manner. Shafts are made wherever it is -thought that coal would be found, and when a vein is discovered it is -worked. The veins run from east to west, and then descend in a southern -direction at an angle of forty-five degrees; between the veins, slate is -commonly found about twelve feet thick. Under the lower layer of slate, -coals have been again discovered by boring, but have not yet been -farther worked. The shafts are not much above twenty feet deep; the -coals are brought up in buckets by means of two windlasses; at one place -machinery worked by a horse is employed for this purpose. One shaft -contains water, which, as the pumps are not yet in order, must be drawn -out in buckets in a very tedious and expensive manner. The coal is of a -superior quality, burns very well, and contains no sulphur. About fifty -men work in the mines, each of which on an average receives monthly -fifteen dollars. Hitherto the society has employed thirty vessels to -transport the coals to Philadelphia. They are brought from the mines in -large wagons to the head of the navigation, and are weighed before -unloading. A profit of a certain amount is expected to arise from the -working of these mines, which, however, will only be properly -calculated, when the mines are worked more systematically. They design -to connect the works with the river, which certainly would be a -considerable saving, by means of a rail-road. A mountain, which runs -parallel with that containing the mines, and which is yet covered with -trees, is also said to contain great quantities of coal, but has not yet -been worked. - -After this fatiguing excursion, as I had seen most of the mines, I left -Pottsville on the 5th of June, and rode forty miles to Mauch Chunk at -the junction of a creek of this name with the Lehigh. After passing -Orwigsburg we turned to the left towards M'Keansburg, through a woody -valley not well settled, and this only near Pine creek. M'Keansburg is a -small place, and lies on an eminence, which affords a prospect of a -romantic valley, through which Little Schuylkill flows. M'Keansburg -adjoins on one side a wood swarming with locusts, which made so much -noise that they might be heard at a great distance. These locusts are -seldom seen, and their present appearance is ascribed to the uncommonly -dry spring. I walked among the trees, and found under the stones several -crystallizations; I found among others, a stone perfectly resembling a -petrified bird's head with the beak. Many vegetable petrifactions, such -as fern and leaves of the kalmia, are found in the slate between the -veins of coal. I was told that the impression of a whole collection of -snakes was found in a cavity in the slate, and that the impressions of -the heads, particularly, were very distinct. - -After leaving M'Keansburg we passed valleys and mountains, and reached, -in this manner, the narrow and romantic valley of the Lehigh, by a very -steep road. Lehighton, which lies at a junction of Mahoning creek and -the Lehigh, consists of but few houses, and is supported in a miserable -manner; because the land is too hilly and rough for cultivation, and the -industrious village of Mauch Chunk, which is but three miles distant, -withdraws from it all support. The country, however rough and -unproductive as it may be for those who wish to live here, would afford -a particular enjoyment to a botanist, and a lover of his science, by its -rich and blooming vegetable productions. - -It began to grow dark when we reached Lehighton, I nevertheless -continued on the road; this grew narrow, was partly cut out of the rock, -and closely approached the right shore of the Lehigh as far as Mauch -Chunk, which we reached after dark, and in a storm. I took lodging in -the only inn, which, however, is very good and respectable, and kept by -a quaker, Mr. Atherton. The place has only existed four years, and owes -its origin to the neighbouring mines, which, with all the surrounding -country, belongs to the Lehigh Coal Company; a company which possesses a -large capital, has existed longer than its rival in Pottsville, and -conducts its operations more systematically. One of the most important -stockholders is a quaker, Mr. White, who lives here, and has properly -created every thing, and directs every thing himself. He visited me the -same evening, and appeared to be a plain Friend, who however has -reflected much on the good of mankind, and speaks very well. - -On the next morning Mr. White took me about the place; it lies in a very -narrow vale surrounded with high mountains, which rise out of the Lehigh -and are covered with trees. The company has made the Lehigh navigable, -or rather is at present engaged in this work, by means of dams, locks -and canals, in order to transport the coal to Philadelphia with ease and -cheapness. - -The canal, in which two locks stand at a distance of one hundred and -thirty feet from each other, is thirty feet wide between the locks, the -sides of which are covered with planks; behind this covering a wall has -been erected, the crevices of which are filled with a liquid mortar. Mr. -White calculates, that the covering of wood will last about thirty -years, and that during this time, the wall will unite with the mortar -and form a kind of rock. Neither the locks, nor the canal were finished, -so that there was as yet but a temporary navigation. The coal is put -into flat boats six feet wide and ten feet long; these are attached, two -together and five behind each other, so that a kind of raft of ten -boats, or rather a box is formed. When this raft arrives at -Philadelphia, and the coal unloaded, these boats are taken to pieces, -the boards sold, and all the iron which was in them, brought back to -Mauch Chunk in carts. Two saw-mills are in constant operation for the -building of these boats, the timber is previously cut in form, so that -practised workmen may nail together such a boat in an hour. But as soon -as the canal and the locks are finished, even this navigation so -expensive and destructive to the wood, will cease, and coal be -transported in steam-boats, which will pass up and down the river and -canal. The banks of the canal are covered with stones, or rather -formally paved, so that they may not suffer from the action of the -wheels. The coal is taken from the mine in wagons to the place where it -is put into boats, and there weighed. After this the carts move upon a -disk which turns, where the horses are quickly unharnessed. The carts -are then raised by means of a machine, worked by a horse, and when they -have attained a certain height, are brought in an oblique position, so -that the coals fall out into a kind of enclosure, where they remain till -wanted; the boats are loaded by means of moveable broad iron gutters, -which are elevated or depressed according to the height of the water. -Grates are put in this gutter, so that the coals which are too small, -and the dust, fall through, and merely the larger pieces fall into the -vessel. - -Considerable quantities of iron ore are found near Mauch Chunk, in a -sandy state, and near the surface of the earth, which is melted in -furnaces, erected for this purpose. But they have not yet succeeded in -doing this by means of stone coal, and are obliged to use charcoal. This -iron is used to make rail-roads, which lead to the most important -coal-mine, nine miles distant. They will facilitate the transportation -of the coal to the water in a very great degree, and make this at least -three-fourths cheaper. Iron carts are to be used on this rail-road. Its -ascent to the mine amounts to one foot in a hundred; the empty carts are -to be drawn up by horses, each of which draws four at the rate of three -miles an hour; when they are loaded, they are carried to the river by -their own weight, and make the passage in less than an hour. When they -reach a certain point not far from the river, they are sent down an -inclined plane, at an angle of forty-five degrees, and by means of -machinery yet to be attached, they draw the empty carts by their weight -up this plane. - -A very good turnpike, now leads to this important mine, nine miles from -Mauch Chunk, along the romantic valley of the same name, which ascends -but two feet in a hundred, so that we could trot the whole way. I went -in company with Mr. White. The mountain is imperceptibly ascended, and -it occasions surprise, when, after a ride of eight miles, the woods, -which cover the mountains are left, to see Mauch Chunk creek, whose -shore has apparently just been left, rushing deep below, and at the top -of the mountain to find oneself in a coal-mine. It is a highly -interesting sight, and alone worth a passage across the ocean. The coal -does not here run in veins, but the whole mountain consists of a solid -mass of coal, covered with a layer of clay at most a foot thick. The -earth assumes a dark colour six inches below the surface; coal dust a -foot and a half thick, is found at the depth of one foot, then comes the -coal in small pieces, which are not used, but at a foot deeper the solid -coal begins, which is broken off and sold. They have hitherto bored to -the depth of sixty feet, and found nothing but the purest coal; they -have however, dug but forty feet deep, and prefer working horizontally -rather than perpendicularly. Except some veins of slate, which as solid -rocks are not more than two feet thick, no heterogeneous substances are -found among the coal. This is entirely black, and only those parts which -are more or less exposed to the weather, are iridescent. - -These mines, which are not subterraneous, occupy at present a space of -nearly four acres. An iron wedge forced by a hammer is used to break the -coal. The stratum of coal is partly horizontal and partly at an angle of -forty-five degrees; it seems as if it had been once elevated and broken -by a subterraneous power. The workmen are paid daily, gain about -eighteen dollars a month, and occupy several houses not far from the -mine. They have dug a well in the stratum of coal, which furnishes pure -and good drinking water. - -We rode back to Mauch Chunk on the excellent road, made altogether on -account of the mine. There is a place on the road where iron sand is -dug, and whence runs a chalybeate spring, which leaves settlings of -ochre. Two miles from Mauch Chunk we ascended the hill, on the other -side of which, again quantities of coal are found. It is, however, very -difficult to reach the layer on this high and steep hill, and the -transportation of coals thence to Mauch Chunk would be attended with -great inconvenience and expense. To obviate this, the company is cutting -through the hill at a certain height, a tunnel in the rock, by which -means the stratum may, to use the expression, be reached by the rear, -and the conveyance of the coals be much facilitated. This tunnel is to -be ten feet high and fifteen wide, with a rail-road in the middle. They -have cut through two hundred feet already, and have yet one hundred and -twenty feet to work, before they reach the coal. This labour is -fatiguing and tedious; twelve men work day and night. They blast the -rocks with powder, and advance but one foot in twenty-four hours. - -In the valley of Mauch Chunk creek, along the road, two furnaces are -erected in order to cast the pieces necessary for the rail-road, to -avoid their transportation and to accelerate the work on the road. Two -saw-mills have also been built in this valley, but the water in the -creek is generally too low to depend much on their assistance in such -works. The company employs about one thousand eight hundred workmen, who -live partly near the mine, but generally in small houses in the place -belonging to the company. Their habitations form a street along Mauch -Chunk creek, nearly half a mile long. A great number of them are married -and have their families with them. The company has given them a -clergyman, and a school with a good teacher, to instruct their children. -A massive mill is also erected near the creek, in which all the flour -necessary for the place is ground; the country is too rough for culture; -the company exchanges in a very profitable manner coal for grain. -Meadows have, however, been laid out in the valley, in order to gain the -necessary hay for one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here. -The creek also works bellows, by means of which the necessary draft of -air is preserved in the furnaces and in the forges. - -A store belonging to the society, and furnished with all the necessary -articles, is also kept here. In this the workmen and their families -receive the necessary articles, the price of which is deducted from -their wages. Every workman has his leaf in a large book, wherein his -account stands, and besides a small pass-book, wherein a copy of his -account is written. Every month, or if the workman prefers oftener, -a settlement is made, and he receives a note on the treasurer for the -money owing to him, unless he wishes it to remain in the treasurer's -hands. The company makes a great profit in this manner, and the greater -part of the money expended flows back again into its treasury. The -ground three miles up and down the Lehigh, belongs to the company, so -that no one can dispute with them the monopoly of keeping a store. If -other companies should be formed to dig coals in the mountains above -Mauch Chunk, where great quantities are said to be found, they could not -gain much, as this society has taken possession of the only outlet, the -Lehigh, and on account of the locks could lay many difficulties in the -way with regard to the transportation of other coal. - -I visited Mr. White in his tasteful house on the declivity of a -mountain, whence he may see the whole of Mauch Chunk. He has a park -behind his house, with tame game, which eat out of his hands. They -consist of two stags and a female elk and her young one, which is -already nearly as large and strong as a horse. They were obliged to -shoot the male elk last autumn, as he attacked Mr. White and gave him -eight wounds in the legs, with his horns, which confined the poor man -about a month to his bed. The assistant of Mr. White ran to aid him, but -received some wounds himself in the body, and would have been killed by -the furious animal, if, at the cry of the two unfortunate men, a number -of people had not hastened with poles and clubs to relieve them. - -At five o'clock in the evening, I left the interesting Mauch Chunk and -went sixteen miles on the road to Bethlehem, as far as Cherryville. At -Lehighton I took the left shore of the Lehigh passing two small creeks, -Big creek, and Aquanshicola creek, and at last, (for the fifth time,) -the Blue Mountains, through Lehigh Water Gap. This country must be very -handsome, and it was with regret that I saw so little of it, but it -began to grow dark, was very rainy weather, and thick clouds covered the -Blue Mountains. Two miles from Water Gap we passed through a small place -called Berlinville, and were yet two miles distant from Cherryville. -In the darkness we could not see the posts which stand wherever roads -cross, and there was no turnpike. We accordingly lost our way, and at a -cross road knew not which direction to take. We ran about in the rain -and the darkness, but found nothing which could have directed us. At -last we took a road at random, fortunately the right one! But it was -midnight before we reached Cherryville, where we found lodgings in a -very good tavern. This whole country is inhabited by Germans, and the -German language is the only one spoken. - -Cherryville consists of but few houses, has, however, an open and -handsome situation, and the roads in the vicinity are planted with -handsome and large cherry trees, whence the name of the place. I left -this place, June 7th, at eight o'clock in the morning, and rode fourteen -miles to much-esteemed Bethlehem. We passed through two small places, -Kreiderville and Howardtown, and through a well-cultivated country; the -grain and fruit, however, were suffering much from the drought, and -beyond Howardtown we rode in a thick cloud of dust. I was uncommonly -pleased, and felt quite at home, when, on leaving the woods, I saw the -friendly Bethlehem before me. But it was quite different from what it -was last autumn; it was then cold, and the trees beginning to lose their -leaves; now summer had given every thing new life. - -At Bethlehem I went to my old quarters at Bishop's tavern, and soon -after my arrival visited the worthy Mr. Frueauf. He was the more pleased -with my visit, as no one in Bethlehem believed that I would fulfil my -promise of returning, except himself. He took me to his brother-in-law, -the Reverend Mr. von Schweinitz, who, at the very time I was at -Bethlehem last autumn, had visited my father in Weimar, and spoken with -my wife. Mr. von Schweinitz is on the mother's side a great grandson of -Count von Zinzendorf, and the brother of a deceased Lieutenant von -Schweinitz, with whom I had been in early years in a company of the -Saxon Guards. He is a very agreeable man, who unites a polished -education with an excellent character. At dinner I met with pleasure -with the old Dr. Stickel. After dinner I walked with Mr. Frueauf and Mr. -von Schweinitz, across Lehigh bridge, to a promenade along the river, -leading to a semicircular place. Benches were placed here, and a spring -was overarched to keep wine, &c. cool. We then went below the garden of -the girl's school to the mill of the congregation, where there is also a -place under a handsome linden tree, affording a very pleasing view into -the vale. But Mr. von Schweinitz was unfortunately obliged to leave here -this afternoon on business of the society, and I could enjoy his -extremely agreeable acquaintance but for a short time. - -I now visited Bishop Hueffel and the Rev. Mr. Seidel. I went again with -the latter to the girl's school, and again admired the great order which -reigns there, and the handsome and fine work of the girls. In the -evening I was present at service in the church; but it was not well -attended, and consisted merely in singing several hymns, which Mr. -Seidel sang, accompanied by a good organ. This devotional exercise -occupied perhaps half an hour, and takes place every evening. The rest -of the evening I spent in a very agreeable manner, at Mr. Seidel's -house, in company with Bishop Hueffel and Mr. Frueauf. - -The following day passed in a very agreeable manner. I read several -allemanic poems of Hebel with Mr. Frueauf, who played to me on his -piano, which instrument must not be wanting in any house here; these -poems may well be called Pennsylvanian, as they are written in a dialect -which is spoken here, especially in Lancaster county and in the western -country. Bishop Hueffel showed me his handsome collection of sketches of -great masters, which are selected with much taste and science, as well -as several other good paintings and drawings. This worthy Bishop, is a -man of polished education, in whose society nothing but profit can be -obtained, on which account I was particularly sorry that I could not -longer stay at Bethlehem. I also visited the sister's house, and these -maidens, who have grown old in honour, seemed to be much pleased with my -repeated visit. I was obliged to go through all the rooms, sit with -several, and tell them of my travels, which was done with the greatest -pleasure. I found many of them employed in making hats of fine chips of -the ash tree. These are woven in a loom like a bolting cloth, then cut -and sewed into hats. A merchant of this place made this speculation, -sells the hats at three quarters of a dollar a piece, and is said to do -much business. - -But I could stay no longer. I left Bethlehem at five o'clock in the -afternoon, with much regret, and rode twelve miles to Easton. The road -led through a country tolerably hilly, and partly woody, but generally -very well cultivated, and through one small place called Butstown. I had -for several days past remarked, that instead of fences, dry walls were -made in a very neat manner, consisting of numerous stones gathered from -the fields. Easton, which I reached at seven o'clock, is a flourishing -place of about three thousand inhabitants. It lies in a valley at the -junction of the Delaware and Lehigh. The shores of both rivers, -especially of the latter, are high; in this are also many rocks, and the -country offers a number of picturesque views. The Delaware forms the -boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey; Easton on the right side -belongs to the former. The place is regularly built. The greatest part -of the houses are built of brick, though there are also some of stone. -A large square place stands in the middle, surrounded with a row of -Lombardy poplars, in the centre of which the Court-house is erected. -I found these poplars in Pennsylvania, and especially in the eastern -parts, preferred as an ornamental tree; in the greater part of the -villages the streets, and even the roads, for some distance are planted, -and some farms are surrounded with them. But it is said they attract -insects, which infest the houses, on which account they have been rooted -up in many places, as for instance, in the streets of New York; in -Pennsylvania, on the contrary, to obviate this evil, their trunks as far -as the branches, are covered with whitewash. The butternut tree, the -leaves of which resemble those of the ash, is also used as an ornamental -tree. At Easton a roofed wooden bridge leads over the Delaware, resting -on two stone piers, and is about two hundred and seventy-seven paces in -length. Like the generality of these bridges, it is divided into two -parts lengthwise, in order that wagons may not meet each other. -A handsome chain bridge, about two hundred and ten paces in length, -leads over the Lehigh. It is divided into three parts lengthwise; the -extreme parts being for wagons and horses, and the middle and smallest -for foot passengers. This bridge was erected ten years ago, and though -it has borne heavy loads, has not yielded in the least degree. - -I received in the evening visits from several Germans, who live in the -place, among whom I mention particularly a physician, Dr. Muller, Mr. -Schumann, and Mr. Till, from Bethlehem. The latter is a teacher of music -and an instrument maker, in Easton. Mr. Schumann was sent to the -seminary of the Moravians at Gnadenfeld in Silesia to become a minister. -Not being pleased with this, he left Gnadenfeld, visited several German -universities to study medicine, returned to America, and now dedicates -himself in Easton to the law. - -A military academy was founding in Easton, of which great expectations -were formed. It was a private undertaking by Mr. Constant. Since it has -been seen, that the military academy at West Point furnishes such -excellent subjects, a strict military education is becoming more and -more popular in the northern states. The number of pupils at West Point -is too limited to admit all the young men for whom application is made. -A captain Partridge, who was formerly an officer at West Point, but -condemned to be cashiered by a court-martial on account of an act of -insubordination towards General Swift and Lieutenant-colonel Thayer, has -founded a military school at his own expense at Middletown, in -Connecticut, in which he is said to give a very good education and solid -instruction to the young men entrusted to him. The result of these -schools shows more and more the advantage of a military education, and -awakens a spirit of competition among individuals to erect similar -schools. - -I left Easton, June 9, at four o'clock, in the mail stage, and rode -through New Jersey to New York, seventy-two miles. We passed the -Delaware, and rode on a good turnpike, through a hilly, well-cultivated -country, and through some unimportant places to a tolerably high -mountain, called Schooley's Mountain, where there is a mineral spring -much frequented in summer. We afterwards came to a neat place in a -handsome valley, called German Valley; then passing through Chester and -Mondham, also handsome places, we came to Morristown. All these places -in New Jersey are well located, containing generally brick and some -large houses; the streets are wide, planted with poplars, and in the -centre of each place is a roomy square opening, in the midst of which -stands a high pole, whence the national flag waves on public days. -Churches also are not wanting; I saw four in Morristown, which appears -to contain about one thousand inhabitants. The churches have here -generally high and white steeples, so that they may be seen at a -considerable distance. We came also through a small place, Springfield, -and then reached Elizabethtown, a very handsome place, surrounded with -neat country-seats, the greater part of which belong to rich inhabitants -of New York. After a short delay we left Elizabethtown, rode two miles -farther through a meadow ground, much like Holland, and reached a bay. -Here we left the stage, and went on board the steam-boat Bellona, being -about fourteen miles distant from New York. This bay is properly an -inland lake, and is called Newark bay, after a town on it of the same -name. It receives its water from two streams, Passaic and Hackensack, -and communicates with the sea towards the south through Staten Island -sound, and on the east with the bay of New York through the channel of -Castleton, through which we also passed. We had on the left a cape -belonging to New Jersey, and on the right Staten Island belonging to New -York. As it was narrow here we could see with great ease the handsome -country-seats and gardens on both shores. But we enjoyed the handsomest -and most unexpected sight, as we entered the bay of New York. On the -right was the beautiful shore of Staten Island with Castleton, then the -quarantine, where, besides several other vessels, lay a Swedish -line-of-battle ship, which being sold to the Colombian government, -remained here on account of some difficulties in the payment; beyond the -Narrows the sea, then Fort La Fayette; we had in front of us the shore -of Long Island, and on the left the bay of New York, with the forts on -Governor's and Bedlow's Island, and between in the back ground the city -of New York, with its pointed spires and forest of masts, in the North -and East rivers. This sight is wonderfully beautiful, and well deserves -to be represented as a panorama. Arrived in the bay, we turned to the -left, passed the above-mentioned fortified islands, left Bedlow's island -and the slightly fortified Ellis's island, passed Castle-garden, and -landed from the North river at seven o'clock in the evening. -I immediately repaired to the City Hotel in Broadway, where I had lodged -last autumn, and occupied again the same apartment which I then did. - -I leave it the reader to imagine with what remarks and feelings I again -entered this place. I gratefully turned to the Great Master of Life, who -had so manifestly protected me during this long journey, and brought me -back again to this place in health! - -I passed at this time but few days in New York, and I mention but a few -circumstances. I was indeed very busy during these days, but almost -every thing was done with a view to my departure. - -I made a visit to Colonel Burr, who was a vice-president of the United -States at the commencement of this century, and a rival of Mr. Jefferson -for the presidency, which was decided in favour of the latter by the -vote of Mr. Claiborne. In consequence of this election, Colonel Burr -fought a duel with General Hamilton, in which the latter was killed. -Burr afterwards went to the western states, and, as it was said, -intended to detach these from the eastern, and form them into a separate -state. His plan was, however, discovered, and he was arrested, but -acquitted for want of sufficient proof. He then travelled through -Europe, and now lives at New York as a lawyer. During his travels in -Europe, he came, in 1810, to Weimar, and spoke of a remarkably good -reception on the part of my father. I found him to be a little old man, -with very lively eyes, who spoke very well. - -As I went to pay a visit to Mr. Zimmermann, consul of the Netherlands, -a fire occurred in a tar manufactory near his house. It was fortunately -checked by the excellent fire companies, before it extended. I had -scarcely remarked the fire when the bells were rung, and fire cried in -all the streets. In less than five minutes engines arrived, each drawn -by about thirty people, by means of two long ropes. In New York numerous -fire companies exist, among whom the different engines are divided. The -members of these companies have voluntarily engaged themselves for this -laborious service, and are relieved, in consequence, from jury and -military service. They wear a short frock at a fire, of coarse linen, -with a leathern belt, and a leathern hat with a number. As in many -English cities, there are water pipes laid in the streets, with an -inscription at the corner, how many feet distant is the opening. This -has an iron cover to which each engine has a key, is brought near, and -the water conveyed into it through a leathern hose. As I had nothing to -do with the fire, I returned to my lodgings, and passed a second fire in -another street. This was, however, less important than the former, and -soon extinguished. - -I went one evening to the Italian opera in the Park Theatre. This opera -was established here last autumn, and is an attempt to transplant this -exotic fruit to American ground. It does not, however, appear adapted to -the taste of the public here; at least the speculation of the Italian -theatre is not so profitable as was expected. The members of this -theatre came from the Italian opera in London. At their head stands -Signor Garcia, a very good bass. The orchestra was not numerous, but -complete, and was directed by a French pianist, Mr. Etienne. Don -Giovanni, by Mozart, was given; it was a great satisfaction to me to see -this classic piece so well represented. At first nothing but operas of -Rossini were played, but now operas of Mozart are preferred to the -former by judges in this place. The price has been raised, and two -dollars is asked for the first tier. The theatre continues till half -past eleven, when one returns home through well-lighted streets. - -As I heard that Governor Clinton was in the city, I hastened to pay him -my respects, but did not find him at home; on this occasion I again saw -how large the city was. The house where the governor lived is nearly two -miles distant from the City Hotel, without being out of the city. -I remarked that since last autumn three new churches have been built -here, of which one, a presbyterian, was very tasteful; since this time -also several new houses had been erected in this quarter. The number of -the inhabitants of the city increases exceedingly, it now supposed to -amount to one hundred and seventy thousand. - -I rode also to the navy-yard in Brooklyn, on Long Island, where I paid a -visit to the worthy Commodore Chauncy. I found him with his interesting -family in excellent health, but very busy, for he had just despatched -the corvette Lexington to New Foundland, in order to protect the -American fishermen against the chicaneries of vessels of war belonging -to other nations, cruising about there. I saw also the frigate -Brandywine, which had returned from the Mediterranean sea, after taking -General La Fayette to France; she was now undergoing repairs, in order -to go to the Pacific ocean. A frigate and corvette were building. - -I saw also the celebrated chess-player of Kempelen, which, with some -other curiosities is exhibited by its present owner, the mechanician Mr. -Maelzel, from Vienna. He is said to have already gained much money with -it in New York. The automaton represents a Turk, sitting behind the -table with a chess-board before him. A table with another chess-board -stands opposite, on which any of the company begins a game of chess with -the automaton. When the automaton is to make a move, a noise of wheels -is heard in the table, and at the same time the Turk lifts his left -hand, which rests on a cushion, opens his fingers, takes the piece, -makes the move, closes his hand, and places it on the cushion again. If -his antagonist makes a false move, the Turk knocks with his right hand -on the table in anger, shakes his head, and expresses his indignation by -a sound. When the Turk gained a game, Mr. Maelzel wound up the machine -like a clock, by means of a handle at the table, then the Turk took a -knight and placed it successively once in every square. The whole -machine stands on four wheels, and may be very easily moved from one -part of the chamber to the other. Whilst the Turk plays the game, Mr. -Maelzel stands by; but it cannot be seen in what manner he directs his -movements. It is said that Mr. Maelzel is negotiating with the keeper of -the National Hotel, where he exhibited his automaton, for the purchase -of the chess-player, and has already received an offer of nineteen -thousand dollars. - -After Mr. Maelzel had moved back the player, he showed us a small figure -made of pasteboard, and representing a violoncello player, which moves -his head and both hands. Mr. Maelzel plays several pieces on the piano, -and the small figure accompanies him with his violoncello, keeping exact -time. He then showed us a trumpeter as large as life, who plays several -pieces with the trumpet in a masterly manner, and with his trumpet -accompanies Mr. Maelzel, who plays the piano. I had already seen this -trumpeter in 1809, at Vienna, and I also recollected to have seen the -chess-player in 1812, in Milan, in the palace of the then vice-king of -Italy. Mr. Maelzel finally showed us three small automata a foot and a -half high. One of them represents a little girl, which when its arm is -moved cries maman; the other a clown, who made grimaces and cried oh la -la! This and another smaller figure were placed on a rope, on which they -performed various evolutions. - -To Castle-garden, on the battery, I went about seven o'clock in the -evening. The tasteful illumination is effected by gas. A handsome and -large saloon is also arranged here, where various refreshments may be -obtained. A good orchestra played the whole evening, and rockets -ascended from time to time. I was particularly pleased with the walk on -the upper gallery, whence there is a beautiful view of Hudson river and -the bay. It was a moonlight evening; the water was calm, and a gentle -wind from the sea, refreshed the sultry atmosphere in a very agreeable -manner. - -At a visit which I made to Governor Clinton, in the City Hall, where his -office is, I saw in the room of audience several handsome portraits by -Sully, Peale, Trumbull, &c. I was most pleased with a full length -portrait of the deceased Commodore PERRY. This naval hero was -represented at the moment of leaving in a small boat his vessel, which -had became useless, and going on board of another, in which he gained -his splendid victory over the English on Lake Erie. There is also here a -full length portrait of General Jackson, and of Generals Brown, Macomb, -and Swift, as well as those of Commodores Hull, Decatur, Bainbridge, -M'Donough and Chauncy, and of the former Governor Lewis. There is also a -very good portrait of Ex-President Monroe, as well as of several of the -earlier Governors of New York, among whom is one of the last Dutch -Governors, Peter Stuyvezant, in full armour. In another hall -appropriated to the meetings of the corporation, there is a portrait by -Trumbull of the great Washington, and opposite to this, a portrait of -the elder Governor Clinton, uncle of De Witt Clinton, as well as those -of General Hamilton and Chief Justice Jay. - -To my great delight I met with my fellow traveller, Mr. Bowdoin; we were -much together; in company with him I paid a visit to the English -Admiral, Sir Isaac Coffin. He is an American by birth, and although he -belongs to the English navy and is a member of parliament, his whole -heart still clings to his native country, and he has come hither to see -it again before his death. - -I was much disappointed at a second visit to the Italian opera. Il -barbiere di Seviglia was announced, but on account of the indisposition -of the Signorina GARCIA, it was not represented. The same folly prevails -among the public here, as among the English, to require a repetition of -the greater part of the airs, even of the most difficult songs, without -regard to the exhaustion of the singer. - -I visited again, in company with the Rev. Mr. Schaeffer, the excellent -institution, called House of Refuge for juvenile offenders. This -institution has increased since last autumn, and now contains -ninety-three young persons of both sexes; at present, however, there are -only twenty-three of the female sex. Such an institution is certainly -worthy of imitation; for children, who are led astray by wrong -inclinations, by the wickedness of their parents, and by bad company, -are brought back again to the right road, whereas in other countries -they are shut up in public prisons with old offenders, and thereby they -become still more corrupted. The house intended for the boys was -finished, and inhabited by them. They were at this time employed in -building another for the girls, parallel with the former. The boys sleep -each alone in a cell on a piece of sail cloth, which they spread out and -fasten by four pegs. These are long rooms, which serve as school rooms, -and are on one side of the building two stories high. The second row is -reached by wooden steps, and a gallery runs before the cells of this -row. All the boys are employed; either in receiving instruction or in -attending to some mechanical business. They are taylors, shoemakers, -weavers, joiners, and basket-makers. I saw here a machine to cut out -shoe soles and heels. Sharp irons are formed according to the shape, -which is designed for the sole or heel; these irons are placed on a pair -of wet hides, and brought under an iron press, which is worked like -those in the mint. The boys who distinguish themselves by their industry -and good behaviour, are placed in the first class, and carry on the left -arm a brass plate, with the inscription, first class, as a mark of -distinction. Those on the contrary, who have endeavoured to escape, drag -a chain with a heavy iron ball. The period of detention in this -institution is left to the discretion of the commissioners; they may be -detained till their twenty-first year. - -In order to show me the boys, the director gave notice with a whistle, -upon which they arranged themselves, according to their size. Several -large and strong fellows stood on the right wing, among which I saw one -of a very good appearance, whom I saw here last year as clerk. His -family had confined him here on account of an irresistible propensity to -steal, against which, neither exhortation nor severe corporeal -punishment availed. I saw two little boys of seven years, on the left -wing, who had already begun to steal. The biography of every one is -written in a separate book, and a journal afterwards kept of his -behaviour, punishments, &c. The director of the house showed me some of -these biographies; they are psychologically, exceedingly remarkable. The -greater part of the boys had been induced to steal by larger ones, who -have been confined on account of this offence in the penitentiary or -state prison. The director called the former of these institutions the -academy, and the latter the university for thieves. The benefit of this -house of refuge is perceived in the clearest manner from these -biographies, it is seen of what importance it is to anticipate the -development of crime. It is certainly an effective mode of improving the -morality of the lower classes. They say that it is more difficult to -keep the girls in order, than the boys, and that upon the whole, the -former are much worse than the latter. They are generally seduced, when -they are but nine or ten years old. When not engaged in receiving -instruction, they are employed in female occupations. - -After leaving this interesting institution, we repaired to the -alms-house on the East river. With the alms-house they have connected -the workhouse, in which criminals are confined and employed for the -benefit and advantage of the city. The institution was erected at the -expense of the city, and consists of three long massive buildings, three -stories high, with several side buildings, designed for hospitals, -schools, smithshops, &c. The whole is surrounded with a wall, and -divisions made in the interior, to separate the paupers from the -criminals. The offices and the rooms occupied by the officers, as well -as those of the poor, are arranged in the building fronting on the -river, the second house also contains rooms for the poor, and workshops, -in which those who can yet work, are usefully employed. About twelve -hundred helpless poor people and children, among which are many -foundlings, are here supported. They inhabit large halls, which, -however, have a bad smell, and I missed that cleanliness, which is -indispensably necessary in such an establishment. A poor-house, is at -best an unpleasant, and when it is not cleanly kept, a disgusting sight. -Those who are confined, are criminals of a lower kind, the worst are not -confined longer than three years. The men work during the day, either in -the fields belonging to the city, or in the public streets. A chain is -attached to their leg, and they are under the inspection of appointed -sentinels. The women are employed in various manners. A treading-mill -was formerly in operation in a side building; but this has not been used -for a year, as it was thought injurious to the health of the prisoners. -A kind of typhus raged in the prison last year, which carried off -numbers of the prisoners. These sleep in separate cells, each of which, -is seven feet long, and three feet broad. Each prisoner has here, as in -the house of refuge, a piece of sail cloth, spread out on four pegs, on -which he sleeps. There is a small grate in each door, which admits the -necessary light into the cell. There are sixty cells in one hall, all on -one side, in five rows above each other; each row has a small gallery. -The hall receives its light from above. A pulpit, opposite the cells, is -erected in this hall for worship; the prisoners who are confined during -the service, stand behind the grate in their doors, whence they may see -the minister. The whole arrangement has, as remarked above, a handsome -and open situation; there is a belvidere on the roof of the front house, -whence a handsome and extensive prospect may be enjoyed. - -On the last day of my stay in New York and in America, I went with Mr. -Zimmermann into some stores, and walked in some of the oldest parts of -the city. In these parts the streets are crooked, narrow and gloomy, -well adapted to retain the yellow fever. In the neighbourhood, however, -of the alms-house there is a building three stories high, where the -incurable lunatics, supported by the corporation of the city, are -received; but the two upper stories are designed to receive, when the -yellow fever appears, those who suffer with this dreadful evil, in order -to remove, as quickly as possible, the infection from the city. Some old -Dutch houses stand in the narrow streets, built by the first settlers, -consisting only of a lower story, with the gable-ends towards the -street. They are building in Wall street, a new exchange, which, when -completed, will be a handsome building. The post-office is already -placed in its lower story. Wall street is the street in which the most -commercial business is done, and in which most of the banks stand; it is -to be regretted that it is one of the ugliest streets in the city. - -After having paid some farewell visits, I passed a part of my last -evening in America, in a very agreeable manner in the house of Mrs. -Bell. It is the most agreeable house for strangers in New York, in which -they always meet with a very good reception. I enjoyed also, for several -hours, the company of Mr. Bowdoin, and of Colonel Jones, the -brother-in-law of Governor Clinton. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - _Return Voyage from New York to Liverpool._ - - -To my great and sincere regret, the hour at length arrived when I was -constrained to leave this happy and prosperous land, in which I had seen -and learned so much, and in which _much_ more still remained to be seen -and learned: _sed fata trahunt hominem!_ - -On the 16th of June, at ten, A. M., I proceeded to Whitehall, the -southernmost point of the battery, accompanied by Mr. Zimmermann, Mr. -George Beiden, and Mr. Armstrong, the American Consul at Port-au-Prince. -Close alongside the wharf, the steam-boat Nautilus, which plies between -New York and Staten Island, lay ready to take passengers on board the -Pacific, one of the Liverpool and New York packets, on board of which I -had taken passage for Europe. The Pacific had on the preceding day, -sailed down to the quarantine ground. The gentlemen above named -accompanied me to the vessel. We were scarcely on board the steam-boat -before she departed on her trip. She was tolerably crowded, inasmuch as -she not only carried the Pacific's passengers, but likewise their -friends, who accompanied them, and the passengers for Staten Island. The -rain fell in torrents, and the passage was rather unpleasant. - -After stopping a few moments at Staten Island to land some passengers, -we reached the Pacific in an hour. The wind being contrary, the ship -could not put to sea. Not far from us lay the packet ship Edward -Quesnell, which had left New York the day previous, and likewise, owing -to head winds, could not proceed on her voyage. This ship belongs to the -Havre-de-Grace line, trading between that port and New York. Our friends -and acquaintances, who had come to bid us farewell, after partaking of a -luncheon, returned in the Nautilus to the city. Now I once again was -compelled to arm myself with patience! I recalled the time, when I was -obliged to remain fourteen long days on board the Pallas, in the Road of -Goeree, and I now consoled myself with a more pleasing situation. At -that time I had just torn myself from the dearest objects of my heart; -I contemplated a tedious stay in England, a dangerous voyage, in a word, -to encounter a host of difficulties, and moreover found myself, in an -inclement season of the year on board a ship, which was to bring me to a -new world. These difficulties were now overcome; the voyage had been -accomplished, and I was conscious that the object of my free choice, had -been truly fulfilled to the best of my endeavours. According to a close -calculation, I found that from my landing in Boston, to the time of my -re-embarkation for Europe, I had travelled over a distance of seven -thousand one hundred and thirty-five miles! How happy was I on board the -Pacific! The greatest tranquillity, order and discipline, the utmost -comfort in respect to quarters; a sedulous attendance, profuse and -palatable meals, seasoned with the best of wines, graced our splendid -board. - -The first day was employed by the passengers, about twenty in number, in -making themselves at home; I passed the afternoon and evening in reading -and writing. The rain abated towards night, but the wind remained -unchanged. Among the passengers I observed a Dr. Garret, a surgeon -attached to the seventieth English regiment of the line, whose -acquaintance I had made in Montreal, during the summer previous, also -two Catholic clergymen of that city, Abbes Roux and Richards, a Mr. -Wilkins, and Mr. Adair, an Irishman, and also several gentlemen from -Jamaica, a Swiss merchant named Hoffel, and a young Hamburger, called -Drusina, who had lately returned from Mexico, where he was partner in an -English commercial house, a very genteel young man, and lastly a Dr. -Cabell of Richmond, in Virginia, with his wife, a sister of Mrs. General -Scott, and with their charming friend, Miss Caroline Marx, also a -resident of Richmond. - -Though we had no rain on the 17th of June, still the wind continued -unfavourable; the Edward Quesnell had gone farther out to sea, and the -Pacific did the same. The anchor was weighed, we spread our sails, and -coasted for some miles along the shore to the Sandy Hook light-house, -located on a point of land belonging to the state of New Jersey; here we -again joined the Edward Quesnell and cast anchor close to her. While -sailing along the coast, I was visited by my old acquaintance, -sea-sickness, which however did not last long. While attacked by this -sickness, I gratefully recalled to mind the goodness of Providence, in -having preserved me from all disease during my long journey through the -American continent! In England I had several attacks of rheumatism in -the left arm and shoulder; but these pains disappeared during my voyage -to Boston. Owing to the unhealthiness of the climate in the -neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence, I had a -breaking out in the face, which ultimately increased to a scab on the -chin, and of which I did not get rid for several months. To this I have -to add the unfortunate injury from the carriage at Greenbush, which -caused violent pains in my chest. All these left me the moment I reached -the genial climate of the southern states, and during my stay in New -Orleans I did not feel the least inconvenience, and when, during the -journey, I experienced now and then a slight indisposition, it was -doubtless to be attributed solely to the water that I was compelled to -drink; it was but short in its duration, and, upon the whole, during my -travels, I enjoyed perfect health. - -The country adjacent to the spot where our ship lay, opposite the -quarantine hospital at Staten Island, until this morning, is uncommonly -beautiful. On leaving this station, we passed through the Narrows, -beheld on our right Fort Richmond on Staten Island, to our left Fort La -Fayette, and in the back ground, on a hill of Long Island, Fort -Hamilton, in the erection of which they were busily engaged. Then we -left the charming high coast of Staten Island and came in sight of the -bleak low lands of Sandy Hook, with Long Island to the left, and the -ocean before us. The Sandy Hook light-house is a high white tower, -surrounded by small underwood; to the south of it, and tolerably distant -from each other, are two small towers, likewise furnished with lanterns, -whose lights are, however, not to be seen at so great a distance at sea -as that of the large one. They serve as landmarks for mariners. - -As we lay so near the Edward Quesnell, I went towards evening in a boat -on board that vessel, in order to see how the passengers, and -particularly the worthy Mr. Hottinguer, whom I have heretofore -mentioned, were situated. Although this ship is well constructed and -provided with state-rooms, still it is by no means so elegant and -comfortable as the Pacific, nor is it so large. She had thirty-five -cabin passengers, with a number of children; they were greatly -straightened for room. Besides Mr. Hottinguer, I met several -acquaintances; Colonel de Quartel,[II-36] Baron Lederer,[II-37] with his -two sons, whom he intended to place at a school in Germany; Major -Chotard,[II-38] with his lady and four children, and also a young -Italian scene-painter, from New Orleans, called Fogliardi, who married -there a very old but extremely rich wife, and was on his way to France -and Italy, to escape with his better half from the quizzical jokes of -the wicked wags of New Orleans. Although the deck of the Edward Quesnell -was very narrow, Mr. Hottinguer had received a present of an elegant -saddle-horse from his friends at New York, which, to please those -friends, he was forced to take with him; therefore there was a stable -erected for it on the deck, which took up a great space, and caused much -inconvenience. Mr. Hottinguer and Colonel de Quartel accompanied me back -to the Pacific, and remained some time with me. It was a charming -moonlight evening; the wind, however, still continued unfavourable. - - [Footnote II-36: In service of the Netherlands, on his return from - a mission to the new South American republics.] - - [Footnote II-37: Austrian Consul-General to the United States.] - - [Footnote II-38: Whose acquaintance I made on the Mississippi - during my trip from Louisville to Cincinnati.] - -On the 18th of June, just one year had elapsed since I departed in the -Pallas from Falmouth. The whole of this day we had dull weather; the -wind remained unfavourable, and the vessel rode at anchor. Among our -fellow travellers there were several very agreeable individuals. The -English military surgeon was a very sprightly man, who perfectly -understood how to cheer up the spirits of the ladies. Mr. Wilkins, -a very elegant young man of good education, had been previously -introduced to me by Governor Clinton in New York. One of the clergymen, -the Abbe Leroux, an elderly Frenchman, we found tolerably dull. With -regard to the other, the Abbe Richards, I heard it stated, that he had -been originally a Protestant minister in Virginia, and had removed to -Montreal, to endeavour to make proselytes in the seminary of that place; -but in his controversies he became so won over to the Catholic faith, -that he was not only converted, but likewise took the orders of Catholic -priesthood. One of our boats went ashore, and the steward brought back -some fresh provisions, among others tolerably large clams, which, when -roasted or stewed in a rich sauce, resemble the flavour of the lobster, -as likewise a species of large crab, termed horse-shoe, which resembles -the Molucca crab, having a long pointed spine instead of a tail. The -form of the shell of this crab resembles a horse-shoe; seen from the -under part it is all alive; they have ten nippers, with which they seize -their prey, and which answer likewise for feet. In the afternoon we -received a visit from Mr. Hottinguer, Colonel de Quartel, Baron Lederer, -and Mr. Fogliardi. I escorted those gentlemen back to the Edward -Quesnell. The sea running rather high, we were splashed by the salt -water. Our trip seen from the ship must have had a dangerous aspect, for -it was really affecting to behold with what tenderness Madam Fogliardi -caressed her young husband, as he once more happily stood on the deck. -I also became acquainted on board the Edward Quesnell with a Portuguese, -Dr. Constancio, and his wife. During the ephemeral government of the -Cortes in his native land, this individual was Portuguese ambassador -near the government of the United States, and had subsequently, during -the existence of the counter-revolution, lost his office. After -remaining half an hour on board the Edward Quesnell, Mr. Croker took me -back in his long-boat to the Pacific. We made the transition in less -than four minutes. This Mr. Croker is a Quaker, and an experienced -seaman; he had crossed the ocean one hundred and thirty-four times. - -During the next three days the wind remained unfavourable. Several -vessels from Liverpool, were making port; one of them had only been -twenty-six days on her voyage. We were likewise, approached by several -small vessels bound to different foreign countries, and like us, -contending with a contrary wind. Towards evening I received a note from -Messrs. Leroy, Bayard & Co. in New York, acquainting me with the failure -of the firm of Fries & Co. in Vienna. As I had formerly been very -hospitably received by that house, and was personally acquainted with -all the individuals belonging to it, their misfortunes deeply afflicted -me. - -On the 22d, the rain abated and the weather began to clear up, but the -wind continued steadily blowing from the east, which kept us in the same -spot. Nothing interrupted the uniformity of our mode of living, which we -beguiled by reading the newspapers that we received from the city, and -looking at vessels coming from England, running into port before the -wind. One of these vessels had one hundred and forty Irish emigrants on -board. The James Cropper, a ship belonging to the line, had sailed on -the 16th ultimo from Liverpool. Two days previous, the Silas Richards, -another of the same line, had also arrived, which left Liverpool on the -24th ult. In one of the New York papers, we found a letter from the -master of this vessel, in which he stated, that he had seen the -celebrated sea serpent, not far from the American coast. - -During the 23d of June, we still remained becalmed; the weather was -cloudy and rainy throughout the whole day. Mr. Hottinguer, who likewise -began to feel the effects of ennui on board his vessel, paid me a visit, -took a luncheon and dined with us, and passed the greater part of the -day in our company. When in the evening he returned to the Edward -Quesnell, I accompanied him, and made a short visit to my half -despairing acquaintances. One of our boats had gone towards land upon a -fishing excursion, and came back loaded with a rich collection of -various kinds of fish: flounders, bluefish, and herrings in abundance; -clams, crabs beautifully coloured with blue and red; large sea-shells of -extraordinary form, several bass and a small fish, with a brown back, -resembling a toad, with a thick white belly, which it fills with air to -such a degree, that the whole fish has the appearance of a ball, -three-fourths of it are white, and one-fourth forming the back, brown. -When this fish is caught and dies, the air gradually escapes from it, -and it ultimately assumes the form of an empty bladder. - -At last, on the 24th, the weather became somewhat clear and the wind -came round favourably for us. At noon the anchor was weighed and we -spread our sails. A number of vessels, desirous to avail themselves of -the fair wind, were coming down from New York and the quarantine ground. -The line packet, John Wells, next in rotation to the Pacific, made -likewise its appearance from port, which was no doubt the principal -cause of our hastily hoisting sail. I counted more than fifty vessels of -all sizes, putting to sea. The wind in the beginning was so slight, that -we could only move along with the ebb tide. We doubled the low cape of -Sandy Hook; in the back ground we saw the light-house, surrounded by -underwood, and in front of it, like two outposts, the two low stony -beacons. Not far from the light-house, stands a half ruined block-house, -in which during the last war a military post was stationed; it now -answers as a landmark for mariners. In the rear of the high light-house, -at a distance of several miles, towers the highland of Navesink, -presenting a charming prospect. To the south one discovers the long and -low coast of New Jersey, and perceives the sea-baths of Long Branch, -which during the heat of summer are numerously visited by the -fashionables of New York and Philadelphia. The heights of Staten Island -with Fort Richmond are seen, to the right of them are the Narrows, and -farther to the right the southernmost high coast of Long Island, -gradually fading from the view. In the centre of the Narrows, Fort La -Fayette stretches out, like a solitary point. As we put farther out to -sea, we saw several buoys, which designated the shallows, through the -midst of which the skilful pilot brought us safely. Two small vessels -were employed in fishing up lost anchors. The pilot remarked, that the -anchors of the French fleet under Admiral De Grasse, had remained here -ever since the time of the American revolutionary war. This fleet owing -to the unskilfullness of two pilots, was compelled to part with its -anchors. When an enemy's fleet blockades New York, the shipping make to -Sandy Hook bay, properly called Raritan bay, for shelter against storms, -and are thus enabled to blockade the Narrows very closely. Should a -fleet wish to force the passage, it can, as I remarked last fall, -neither be prevented from so doing by Fort Richmond, nor Fort La -Fayette. In a conversation which I had with General Bernard, he stated, -that he would prevent a close blockade by means of two strong casemated -forts, which he would erect on the before-mentioned shallows, whereby -the enemy would be perfectly excluded from Raritan bay. This project -could not, however, be realised at that time, because the grant of funds -by congress were to be appropriated to the completion of the works on -the fortress already commenced. - -In the afternoon, the pilot at length left us, and we found ourselves on -the open sea. Although the wind blew very gently, still the sea, owing -to the late storm, ran very high. The ship rolled dreadfully and many of -our passengers were sea-sick. I also felt somewhat unwell, but my -complaint did not produce vomiting. - -During the 25th of June the wind not being favourable, we made but -little progress. The weather was rather unpleasant, and the whole day -clouded with a thick fog, almost as dense as that through which we made -our way during last year on the banks of Newfoundland. Towards the -afternoon the weather brightened up a little. We spoke two ships, the -Camillus, of New York, from Greenock, in Scotland, with Scotch -emigrants, bound to New York, and a small brig from New Brunswick, in -ballast, to New York. A shark followed our ship for some time. It gave -me particular pleasure to perceive what tranquillity reigned on board, -that no swearing was to be heard, and that every thing tended to the -comfort of the passengers. - -During the night rain fell, and on the 26th of June we had likewise -several showers. We perceived the Edward Quesnell astern of us, and set -several additional sails that she might not reach us. The wind was not -very favourable, and blowing from the south-east, it drove us into the -neighbourhood of the perilous George's bank, which we so carefully -avoided last year. Therefore we changed our course and stood to the -south. It became imperiously necessary this year to keep aloof from the -bank of Newfoundland, because we had been assured that a great quantity -of detached ice had come down from the north, and setting on the bank in -the shape of bergs and fields of ice, had rendered the passage extremely -dangerous. Several of our passengers, and I among the number, had not -entirely recovered from the effects of sea-sickness. - -On the 27th of June the wind had come round favourably to the west, -so that we were enabled to hoist a larger quantity of canvass. In the -forenoon there was a heavy swell, which made me sea-sick. While -labouring under this unpleasant sensation, it is difficult to conceive -how men can expose themselves to the dangers of the sea, while there is -a comfortable house and quiet bed at home. But scarcely is it over, or -scarcely have we put foot on shore before all these inconveniences are -forgotten, and one thinks little of embarking again. The sea gradually -became more still, the weather charmingly warm, and an awning was spread -over a part of the deck, under which we collected, and even the ladies, -who had slowly recovered from sea-sickness, joined us, to breathe the -fresh air. In the evening, we were regaled with music; one of the -steerage passengers blew tolerably well on the bugle, amused his -companions therewith, and we listened to his strains at a distance. -There was some musical talent among ourselves; a young Scotch gentleman -from Jamaica, named Leslie, played elegantly on the flute, and often -delighted us. Several water birds followed our ship; it is a species of -bird resembling a swallow, called petrel, and termed mother Carey's -chickens by sailors, who say that they never alight upon land, and as -their nests are not readily found, it is hard to tell where they -propagate. A large vessel, which we supposed to be either the Edward -Quesnell or the John Wells, followed constantly in our wake; but our -heavy press of sail kept us always in advance. It is a matter of -surprise, how such a large quantity of sail can be managed by so few -hands, for we had but fifteen sailors and two boys; however, the -steerage passengers were obliged to lend a hand to the manoeuvres on -deck; there were thirteen of these on board; they are similar to the -deck passengers in the steam-boats; they pay but little, provide their -own provisions, and are narrowly lodged in a small place below decks, -near the fore-mast, and are not allowed, unless when working, to show -themselves abaft the mainmast, inasmuch as this place is solely reserved -for the cabin passengers. On board our vessel, the sailors slept in -quarters provided for them on the deck, between the fore-mast and the -bowsprit. - -During the whole of the 28th of June we were favoured with a prosperous -breeze and fine weather. Our situation was, by a midday observation, 40 deg. -3' latitude, and 65 deg. 4' longitude. Since yesterday we had seen grass -floating close to the ship. Thence we concluded that we had already -entered the favouring Gulf Stream. The awning was again spread. Mrs. -Cabell and Miss Marx, who had recovered by degrees from their -indisposition, presented themselves to-day upon deck, and made a -considerable change in the tedious uniformity of our late mode of -living. In the evening Mr. Leslie brought his flute, and delighted us -with music; finally, we began to dance on deck, although from the motion -of the ship it did not succeed well. - -On the 29th of June, both wind and weather continued favourable to us; -otherwise things remained as before. Captain Croker, who did every thing -in his power to entertain his passengers, set off in the evening a -couple of rockets, and other fire-works, which afforded us much -pleasure. Mr. Croker, who is very experienced in a seafaring life, -related us many of his adventures on the deep, which we found very -interesting. We twice perceived swarms of flying fish arise from the -water, which after flying a considerable distance, plunged anew into -their native element; they did not, however, come sufficiently near to -enable us to observe them distinctly. A large dolphin likewise made its -appearance, and we were still escorted by mother Carey's chickens, and -saw numerous sea-gulls. - -On the 30th of June no change; wind favourable, weather fine and clear, -and a curiosity in natural history! We generally kept a pair of hooks in -our wake. One of these hooks had caught a mollusc which goes by the name -of _Portuguese man-of-war_. It is of a violet colour, and has a spongy -body with long feelers and two bladders, the largest of which is about -the size of a carp. This bladder the animal fills with air at pleasure, -in order to enable itself to swim, and when the sun shines upon it, it -displays very fine colours. Otherwise we caught nothing, as heretofore, -because fish most generally avoid copper-bottomed vessels, such as ours. -In the evening we saw in the ship's wake the phosphoric sealight. - -Under a continually favourable wind, we made great progress on the 2d of -July, and had the agreeable certainty of leaving the bank of -Newfoundland behind us, so that we had reason to hope, during the -remainder of our voyage, not to be again incommoded by fogs; latitude -41 deg. 24', longitude 50 deg.. Notwithstanding the constantly favourable and -fresh breezes, the sea was so smooth, that our ship had no more motion -than if we were sailing on a stream. And thus passed off the third of -July; the air, which had thus far been very warm, became to-day rather -cool, which made our cabin very comfortable. At a cable's length from -our vessel we perceived a numerous herd of porpoises, which were -sporting on the surface of the water; latitude 42 deg., longitude 46 deg. 48'. - -The 4th of July was the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of -American Independence; it was of course duly celebrated on board our -vessel. The American flag was hoisted early, and at dinner more wine -than usual, and of various kinds, was drank freely. Several toasts were -proposed: Mr. Croker drank the health of the King of England; whereupon -Dr. Garret proposed that of the President of the United States; I gave -Governor Clinton's; thereupon followed a great many of like kind. We -were pretty gay and cheerful, and drank till tolerably late. Several -gentlemen got head-aches, and became sea-sick; and many laughable scenes -took place. I stole into my state-room, in order to avoid similar -mishap. - -On the 5th of July we had the good fortune to meet a large whale, which -spouted the water high above him in all directions. He did not, however, -honour us a long time with his presence, but pursued his course, and we -ours, though with much greater velocity; for at the usual meridian -observation, we found our latitude 44 deg. 9' and our longitude 39 deg. 38'. In -the morning we had little wind, but when towards evening it freshened, -we made from eight to nine miles an hour. Up to this period our voyage -had been most prosperous, continually fair wind and the sea very smooth. -During three days we had seen a brig at the distance of some miles from -us, which was going on the same course, but our ship being a better -sailer, we left it to-day considerably behind. - -On the 7th of July, weather dull, with occasional rain; which rendered -it cold and uncomfortable. Latitude 46 deg. 50', longitude 30 deg. 31'; wind -towards afternoon rather strong, sea running very high with the wind in -our stern; this increased the motion of our ship, which was constantly -pitching from one side to the other. What was not properly fastened gave -way. This gave rise to many droll scenes. The ladies, who were -unaccustomed to this new unpleasantness attending a sea voyage, became -frightened; they conceived that danger was near, and we had considerable -trouble in allaying their fears. One of them entreated in the most -affecting manner, several gentlemen, who were whiling away their time at -a game of whist, and others who were engaged at back-gammon, not to -bring down the vengeance of heaven, and not to increase the danger that -surrounded us, by sinful card-playing and unholy back-gammon! But there -was no danger whatever to apprehend, though the rolling of the vessel -was unpleasant; the passengers scarcely knew where to go, or what to do, -for it was even impossible to sleep, inasmuch as the shocking rolling -threatened us with a fall from our beds. - -We pursued our course swiftly during the 8th of July. Latitude 47 deg. 58', -longitude 25 deg. 10'. In the forenoon the sea was calmer, but during the -afternoon, and particularly in the evening, it ran so high that the ship -pitched more than yesterday. The weather was, during the whole of the -day, unpleasant, cloudy, and rainy, and it was with the greatest -difficulty that we kept our feet on the wet deck. In the evening, -I observed again in the sea the phosphoric light; some parts of the -water sparkled like fireflies.[II-39] We overtook a brig, apparently -bound on our course; on this occasion we once more remarked what a good -sailer the Pacific is, for when we discovered the brig, she was far -ahead of us, and although she had all her sails set, we not only soon -overtook her, but soon left her far behind us. We did not approach her -sufficiently near to speak. During this damp weather, I acknowledged the -superior construction of the Pacific to that of the Pallas; whilst in -the latter the moisture penetrated throughout, and exerted its noxious -influence on a variety of articles liable to rot, and spread through the -whole vessel an insupportable foul smell; every thing in the Pacific was -dry, and in our cabin we had not suffered at all from the existing -humidity. - - [Footnote II-39: [This light is emitted by molluscous animals, - which are exceedingly abundant in some parts of the ocean. They - are also seen to great advantage during the night, in the - Chesapeake bay.]--TRANS.] - -The night of the 8th and 9th of July I passed very unpleasantly, owing -to the rolling of the vessel; I was every moment on the point of falling -out of my bed, and it was only towards six o'clock in the morning that I -began to enjoy some repose. The day brought with it clear weather. The -wind had been so favourable for the last twenty-four hours, that we -found ourselves in latitude 48 deg. 40', and longitude 19 deg. 12'. In the -afternoon the wind became variable and blew from various quarters; we -experienced several squalls accompanied by showers of rain. At last it -set in strong from the north-west, and drove us forward at the rate of -eleven miles per hour. Towards evening we came up with a vessel bound -from Savannah for Liverpool, spoke her, and gave her our longitude. -Their reckoning differed from ours, as they believed themselves to be in -longitude 16 deg.. The sea ran rather high while we were in the -neighbourhood of this vessel, so that we could not have a long talk with -her, nor even rightly understand her name. We left her far behind us. - -On the 10th of July, the wind continued favourable, there was a heavy -swell of the sea, and much motion in the vessel. The weather clearing -off towards noon, we were enabled to make exact observations, which we -could not do for some days before, on account of the cloudy weather. -It appeared, that we had made a small mistake in our computation of the -longitude, for by the precise observation of this day, we found our -latitude to be fifty degrees twenty-two minutes, and our longitude -seventeen degrees. We saw already several birds, a proof that we were -approaching land; we continually saw petrels and mother Carey's -chickens. The more we sailed northwards, we felt the air becoming -cooler, which created in me no pleasant sensation. - -The 11th of July was rather windy and rainy; in other respects matters -remained in statu quo. Latitude fifty degrees thirty minutes, longitude -twelve degrees fifty-five minutes. We hoped to find ourselves on the -next day on the Nymph bank, which stretches from the south of Ireland, -far into the sea, nor were we deceived in our expectations, for very -early on the 12th of July, we experienced an uncommonly heavy motion, -and the waves ran as high as in a storm, although the wind was not -strong. This served as an assurance, that we had attained the Nymph -bank. The motion of the sea here is caused by the pressure of great -masses of water upon the bank, whereby the under water is cast up, and -driven with great force towards the surface. The lead was hove for -soundings several times since midnight, as we lay still too far to the -south, to be governed by landmarks; had the weather not been so hazy, we -could easily have distinguished Cape Clear, the south-westernmost point -of Ireland, consisting of a single high rock, jutting out into the sea, -and provided with a light-house. While we were seated at dinner, land -was discovered. We mounted on deck, and beheld the high coast of the -county of Cork in Ireland; the weather continued so hazy and rainy, that -we could not have a clear and fine view of the land. I was surprised at -the indifference with which I contemplated the first European land that -now met my view, and particularly when I compared this indifference with -the joyful enthusiasm, with which, one year past, on the 24th of July. -I put my foot for the first time on the soil of America! But at that -time every thing was new to me, and my expectations were wrought up to -the highest pitch; now on the contrary, I could only expect to see what -was generally familiar. After dinner we perceived off the coast of -Ireland, two islands with high hills, called the Saltees, and near them -a three-masted ship, as a floating light at anchor. We met likewise a -steam-boat, bound from Milford in Wales, to Waterford in Ireland. It lay -rather low in the water, and as the wind blew strong from the west, the -sea ran so high, that I did not at all envy the condition of the -passengers in the steam-boat, over whose deck the waves were constantly -beating. The sight of land made our passengers more cheerful, and -towards evening we became more happy than usual. - -On the morning of the 13th of July, the wind was uncommonly mild, the -weather, however, cleared up, so that we gradually discovered the lofty -and mountainous coast of Wales. Among these high mountains, we -particularly distinguished that of Snowdon, which towered above the -others, until its pinnacle became lost in the clouds; it is about four -thousand feet high. We descried the Isle of Anglesea next, and came so -near it, that we could perceive distinctly its rough, high and -precipitous rocks, arising from the ocean. On the highest of these -rocks, stands a watch-house with a signal pole; we showed our number; -every vessel that trades with Liverpool, is there furnished with a -number, under which it is inscribed in the book of the exchange, and our -signal was immediately hoisted over the watch-house. By a chain of -telegraphs, the news of our arrival reached Liverpool in a moment, at -the distance of sixty miles. Under the high rock of Anglesea, is a -smaller, more isolated rock, on which stands a white light-house, which -contrasts charmingly with the dark rocks. From the higher rock, a zigzag -path, cut in the rock and surrounded with a white wall, leads to a -bridge, suspended by ropes, over which you enter this little island. As -we approached it towards noon, the wind sprang up, and we enjoyed the -majestic spectacle of the waves breaking on the black rocks. Then we -made the highlands of Holyhead, doubled them and directed our course to -the east. Behind the cape, the beautifully situated town of Holyhead -with its harbour burst upon our view. This English harbour is the -nearest to the Irish coast; between it and Dublin there is a regular -communication by steam-boats. We tacked and stood over to the coast of -Wales, and were delighted with the appearance of its fresh green soil; -its neat houses and churches. The green hedges with which the fields and -meadows are encompassed, produce a very pleasing sensation; I however -observed, that there was a great scarcity of trees. The scenery towards -the sea side began likewise to be more lively, as there was a great -number of vessels in view. At last the pilot-boat came up, and put a -pilot on board. As one approaches England from the European continent, -the elegant construction of these one-masted cutter pilot-boats and -their quick sailing, excites astonishment; but if one is bound from the -United States, and has beheld their elegant shipping, and particularly -the New York pilot-boat schooners, there is no reason for surprise, for -the English shipping is far inferior to the American. - -Toward evening, the ebb was against us; we could no longer run into -Liverpool, and were obliged to cast anchor within fifteen miles of the -city. We had passed the same floating light, which I observed three -years ago, in a voyage from Liverpool to Dublin, and we lay near four -light-houses, two of which gave a remarkably clear and beautiful light; -the light of one of these towers played gracefully on the waves. These -towers were a considerable distance from each other, and are so -situated, that two must be brought in a line, to find the proper course. -I had observed on the coast of Wales, some white pyramids, which also -serve as landmarks. We met to-day several steam-boats, bound to -different ports along the Irish coast. Dr. Garret, whose business led -him to Ireland, availed himself of this opportunity to proceed to -Dublin, and left us while we were still under way. We beheld the -departure of this lively fellow-passenger with much regret, as the loss -of his good humour and wit, greatly depressed our spirits. Three -custom-house officers soon came on board, who after inspecting the -vessel for form sake, and partaking of a hearty collation, instantly -freed us from their company. We were boarded by several boats, which -offered to take passengers ashore; but as it was near dusk, and as the -most of us were in no hurry, only two of our fellow-passengers accepted -their proposals. This was the nineteenth day since our departure from -Sandy Hook, and we could not be too thankful to Providence for his -protection, and our happy and speedy voyage. As it was known in -Liverpool, that we were to sail on the 16th ultimo, from New York, our -friends anxiously awaited our arrival. - -On the 14th of July, between two and three o'clock in the morning every -body was already stirring on board of our ship; we hoisted anchor and -set sail, with a favourable wind, to reach Liverpool by daybreak. This -city, as is known, is situated on the right bank of the Mersey, in -Lancashire; seen from the water, it presents a charming prospect. To the -right you behold the coast of Chestershire, and a deep bay which -stretches to the city of Chester. This coast is not handsome at first -view, but becomes more agreeable after doubling a very dangerous rocky -point, which runs from the left bank of the Mersey, not far from the -harbour of Liverpool, and on which, during gales, vessels are often -liable to be wrecked. You then discover on this coast beautiful -country-seats, and in the back ground pleasant villages. Captain Croker -wished to avail himself of the rising tide to run into the Prince's -dock; this required much manoeuvering, and at last we took in sail. After -an hour's labour we ultimately reached the dock. The dock was so crowded -with ships, that the Pacific took her place fourth from the wharf. -I went ashore, and took up my lodgings at the King's Arms Hotel, in -Castle-street, an excellent hotel, in which I lodged three years ago. -The landing of my baggage went on very slowly, because it had to be -carried over three vessels. When landed, it was carried to the so called -old dock, to a toll-house, situated in the interior of the city. This -toll-house is an old, narrow, smoky building, by no means worthy so rich -a trading emporium as Liverpool. Before I could have my baggage -examined, I was obliged to present myself at the alien-office, to -produce my passport; it was taken from me, and I received a passport ad -interim, in lieu thereof. Upon the whole, I had to undergo a great many -formalities. In AMERICA, it was quite the contrary: there they never -thought of asking me for a passport. Ultimately I received permission to -have my baggage examined, which was done in the politest manner -possible. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - _Stay in England, and return to Ghent._ - - -Among the gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured -me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of -Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President -Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of -Versailles, came to England with credentials signed by WASHINGTON. - -The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its -many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me. -However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited -several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity -and in Staffordshire. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and -gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one -likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called -stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in -solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay. - -I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven -years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This -institution is the central prison of Lancastershire, and contains -prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those -who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported -to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to -visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the -governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free -circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this -period they amounted to six hundred and fifty. - -The prisoners are divided into twenty-one classes, thirteen for the men -and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and -ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and -yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and -red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete -suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children -is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into -different classes, and entirely separated from the grown persons. - -For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. On Sunday there -is service in the chapel, but for each sex separately, and every morning -there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly principally employed in -spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much -fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on -the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of -them were idle. - -Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe -punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days -solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater -punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who -meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option. -A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry -is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with -the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are -conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large -rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is -extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The -antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in -private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of -them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several -shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the -judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs. - -After I had inspected this interesting prison, we went to visit the -institution for the blind, of which I had heard such a high character. -Unfortunately, the hour for the admission of strangers had passed, and -notwithstanding all our intreaties, we were denied admission by a -handsome girl, who opened the door. - -We next visited a small museum, which was pretty much on the plan of -those in America, and like most of these establishments, was furnished -with a hand-organ, on which they played at certain hours, to induce -people to enter. This museum possesses rare stuffed animals, viz. -a large ant-eater, and a quantity of foreign lizards and snakes; many -living ones of the same kind I had seen in America; they are attached in -a very natural manner to moss-covered rocks. It has likewise a -collection of foreign birds and shells; garments and weapons of the -savages of America, and the Southern Islands; a boa constrictor coiled -round and choking a young antelope, &c. A Miss Brown, a young person, -born without arms, was to be seen working with her feet in the most -ingenious style. She eats not only with her feet, but likewise pours out -a glass of wine, and carries it to her mouth without spilling a drop; -she mends a pen, and writes very distinctly with her right foot; she -threads a needle, sews, &c. - -On the 16th of July, at eight o'clock in the morning, I departed from -Liverpool in the stage for Birmingham, with the intention of soon -proceeding to the continent. The English stages are better closed, and -run easier than the American, but I prefer the latter, because their -seats are more comfortable. The distance from Liverpool to Birmingham is -one hundred and one miles; the turnpike is most excellent, and the road -even the whole way. On one side of the turnpike, along the whole length -of the road, there is a side-walk for pedestrians; it has a pebbly -surface, and is enclosed on both sides with sandstone, to heighten the -pavement. Wherever this side-walk is not paved, it is at least smoothed -and lined with small sods; at equal distances two posts are driven into -the ground, to prevent the passage of horsemen and wheelbarrows. -I admired the peculiar care with which the stones destined for the -repairs of the highway, are broken into the smallest pieces. With such -stones it is easy to make a good road, and the Americans and other -nations might well take example from the British, whenever they wish to -have a good road, or to repair one. The number of villages that lay upon -our route had a very handsome appearance. The dwellings of the farmers -are small, but they have a very neat appearance, owing to the -straw-thatched roofs, variegated with small windows, the bowers in front -of the doors, and the garlands of roses and ivy, which twine gracefully -along the walls; the little flower-gardens by the road side, also -enhance the charms of these cottages. On the other hand, the towns have -narrow streets, and a gloomy, smoky look. - -Soldiers are garrisoned in the towns as far as Wolverhampton. This -arrangement had been made for some months past, because several large -manufactories in this neighbourhood had stopped working, and the -famishing artizans had adopted forcible measures in order to procure -bread. The country is very well cultivated; mostly with wheat and -barley. The wheat appeared already nearly ripe; the straw was however -very small, owing to the want of rain. The green and blooming hedges -that ran along the fields had a delightful aspect. In comparing the -beautiful and large trees of America, with those of this country, I was -astonished at the contrast between the two, the latter consisting of low -and miserable woodland. However, in the parks and large gardens, several -of which I saw, there are many fine trees; but it is on account of these -many parks of the nobility, that a great quantity of land remains -uncultivated, which, in a country so populous as England, becomes a -matter of the highest importance. - -Between Newcastle and Stone we passed through a village called Trentham, -where the Marquis of Stafford possesses a large castle, situated in an -extensive park; to the left of the road stand large square masses of -stone, said to be the burial place of the Stafford family. Near the town -of Stafford, which is the capital of Staffordshire, the old castle of -Stafford is erected on a high hill. Two of its towers are still -remaining, several rooms of which are fitted up for a sporting -rendezvous. In former times it is said to have been a very important -fortress, but was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell. -Staffordshire is celebrated for its manufactures of earthenware; there -are two very respectable establishments of this kind at -Newcastle-under-Lyne, the most excellent of which is that of Wedgewood -in Etruria, situated two miles from the aforesaid town. We passed -several cotton manufactories, and a silk factory near Congleton, a town -on the other side of Knutsford, containing six thousand souls. - -We crossed at several times to-day two excellent canals, one belonging -to the Sankey Navigation Company, and the other to the Duke of -Bridgewater. We drove twice under this canal. In Stafford I observed a -very decent looking court-house, and upon a hill the central prison of -Staffordshire. I also remarked to-day several coal-mines; particularly -at the last post between Wolverhampton and Birmingham they are very -numerous. For a considerable distance no sign of cultivation was to be -seen; nothing was to be seen but coal and iron-works, with -steam-machines and colossal chimneys in the form of obelisks, and high -flaming furnaces. This district had the appearance of a conflagrated -city, several of whose houses were still burning; the sulphurous smell -that pervaded the atmosphere, almost took the breath away. As we -approached Birmingham, these works began to disappear; we passed through -pleasant villages interspersed with charming blooming gardens, and every -thing foretold that we were approaching a large and wealthy city. This -impression was strengthened on our seeing the citizens returning from -the country in their holy-day suits. It was about nine o'clock in the -evening, when we reached Birmingham. I took up my quarters in the Royal -Hotel, an excellent tavern, where I resided three years previous. In a -public advertisement, stating the advantages connected with this -establishment, travellers are notified that it is located in the -pleasantest part of the town, whereas the finest prospect it presents, -opens upon a burial ground, which also answers as a promenade for the -inhabitants, and as a playground for children. - -In Birmingham three years past, I spent several days; I wished, however, -to see several things once more, and therefore sojourned a few days in -this city. I went to Mr. Thomason's show-room, where every thing, -manufactured in Birmingham, is to be seen. Several rooms contain -uncommonly tasteful plated ware, others trinkets, medals, curiosities, -steel ware, guns, works in papier mache, crystals, &c. The well known -Warwick castle Vase, I again saw of multifarious dimensions; firstly, -of the full size in bronze, for which Mr. Thomason had expressly built a -small house adjoining his own; then another of smaller dimensions, -likewise of bronze, with the marks and ornaments in silver, or -silver-gilt, which must make a very elegant appearance at table. I here -likewise saw imitations of the greatest precious stones known, in their -exact form, size and colour. This collection, in a very neat box, costs -twenty-five guineas. - -Mr. Thomason has connected himself with an artist, who, during his -residence of many years in Russia, had acquired at Tula the secret of -steel working, and was beginning to imitate it here. In his first essay -he tried to inlay a silver waiter with steel; in this attempt, however, -he did not succeed properly. Should it succeed, the introduction of this -invention into England, would be of great importance, as this art being -now confined to Russia, is there considered as a very important secret. -Mr. Thomason had likewise the politeness to conduct me to an armory; -here an immense quantity of various sword-blades was shown me, and also -the mode of trying them; they are strained in a machine, by which they -are bent to a certain degree, and then unbent; they are then examined, -to see if they are not curved, then a block of steel is struck with the -flat of the blade, and a wooden one cut with the edge; and if it is -proof to this, it is considered sound, and stamped. At this moment, -owing to the existence of profound peace, there was little work done in -this manufactory, consequently I could not see the sharpening and -polishing of the blades, which takes place in a particular workhouse. - -In lieu thereof I saw in it the silvering of polished brass wire. This, -first of all consists of a piece half an inch thick, which receives a -very thin silver covering; it is heated in an oven, seized with tongs, -and drawn through different holes, which are cut in pieces of steel, -gradually diminishing in size, until they attain the size of a common -piece of wire. By this means the wire may be drawn out to the thinness -of a hair, and it is remarkable, that it still retains the silver. The -tongs are pulled by a patent chain, the links of which are double -folded, and for the invention of which, the owner of this establishment -has obtained a patent from government. I also visited another show-room, -which has only been two years fitted up; it is very splendidly arranged; -it has a larger space than Mr. Thomason's, but is not so richly and well -provided. - -In the evening I went to the theatre; they exhibited the disagreeable -tragedy of Jane Shore, after which we had a tolerable pantomime, called -the Village Festival, and it closed with an uninteresting melo-drama, -the Woodman's Hut. In the first piece Miss Lacy, from Covent-garden, -personified the character of Jane Shore most capitally, and was well -supported by several of the other actors; the piece, however, is -abominable in itself, and I can imagine nothing more disgusting than to -behold an unfortunate being, struggling on the stage in the arms of -death. In this country, however, it is a favourite piece. They -endeavoured to produce it on the French boards, but it would not take at -all. The theatre is well fitted up: it has a pit, two rows of boxes, and -a gallery, which can accommodate a great many spectators; on this -occasion it was likewise greatly crowded by a noisy mob. I found in the -boxes and pit fewer spectators than I expected, the decorations are well -painted, and the interior lighted with gas. The provincial theatres -receive generally but little encouragement, and their receipts only -increase in summer, when the large London theatres of Covent-garden and -Drury-lane are closed, and the celebrated actors there engaged, make a -trip to the provinces. - -On the 18th of July, at eight o'clock in the morning, I left Birmingham -in a post-chaise and proceeded by a circuitous route to Oxford. I sent -on my baggage by the direct course in the stage. I went out of my way -for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Kenilworth and Warwick castles. -The distance from Birmingham to Oxford by this road is seventy-one -miles, the turnpike at times hilly, but invariably good. Our route lay -through Knowles, a very charming country town. Kenilworth, on the -contrary, is a small ill-looking place, but inclosing splendid ruins of -the old castle, which have become universally notorious by the romance -of Kenilworth. Excepting the ruins of Paulinzelle, those of Kenilworth -are the most beautiful I ever beheld. The castle was built at three -different periods. The most ancient northern part erroneously called -Caesar's tower, was erected about the year 1120, by Geoffroy de Clinton, -and was a fortress during the early inland strifes between the barons, -the scene of many important events. Towards the close of the fourteenth -century, it fell into the possession of John of Gaunt, who added to it -the western and largest wing, called after him Lancaster buildings. At a -later period Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her favourite, the Earl of -Leicester, who, in 1571, erected the southern portion, called Leicester -buildings; he also built between two towers a tilting yard for -tournaments, and erected likewise, the large portico, which now is -occupied as a dwelling. In this palace he entertained his queen with a -splendid feast, that lasted seventeen days, and which is described in a -particular book. After the earl's death, the castle with its extensive -domains, escheated to the crown. Cromwell partitioned it among several -of his officers, who drained the ditch, that circumscribed the greater -portion of the castle walls, and likewise destroyed the park, and -ultimately the castle, to sell the timber. Nothing but the tower, -containing the portico, remains standing, because one of the officers -occupied two rooms over the gateway, he turned this building into a -dwelling place. This is still to be seen, and is now inhabited by Lord -Clarendon's agent, whose forefathers received a grant of this castle -from Charles II. - -Through this building you enter the grounds belonging to the castle, -after passing through a file of beggarly children, who offer you a -description of the ruins for eighteen pence. Near the old house, called -Gateway, there is a sign saying that the chimney-piece may be seen for -sixpence. A tidy girl receives this stipend with a smart courtsey, and -opens the door leading into an old room; it is one of the two which have -been made out of the gateway. The chimney-piece was probably transported -from the castle during the sacking of it. It is of alabaster, and bears -the inscription, "_Droit et Loyal_," and on each side the initial -letters R. L., Robert Leicester; beneath it is Leicester's coat of arms, -surrounded by the order of the garter; below is inscribed the year 1571, -and the motto, _Vivit post funera virtus_. Over the chimney-piece there -is a square frame, containing the initial letters E. R., Elizabeth -Regina; in the centre of it are holes, which lead one to believe that -weapons were formerly fastened in them. - -The garden lies to the right of this building. Close thereto is the -dungeon, which stands on rising ground between the castle and the moat, -which is now transformed into meadow-ground, and it runs north, west, -and south, round the castle to the tilting ground. The bank of the moat -was lined by a wall, crowned with several towers, one of which was -called the Swan-tower. On the left hand one perceives a large yard, in -the rear of which are the out-houses, and behind them lie the fortified -walls with several towers. On ascending to the right of the castle, you -arrive at the grand court, which is now only encompassed on three sides -by ruins of edifices; of the buildings that were situated on the fourth -side, no trace is remaining. The first ruin that you discover on the -right is that called Caesar's tower; of this building, which was -quadrangular, three sides are still standing; the walls are on an -average sixteen feet thick. Here a flight of stairs lead to a door, now -built up, which opened to the garden. Here is the only fountain which -has as yet been discovered among the ruins. It is, like the whole -castle, built of red sandstone, and cut, farther down, out of the hard -rock; it is seventy feet deep, but is gradually filling up by the many -stones cast into it. The kitchen adjoins Caesar's tower, and must have -been a considerably large building, but there are only a few remains of -it. The place where the furnaces and large kettles stood is still -perceptible. - -Adjoining the kitchen is the strong tower, forming the north-west -corner; it is here that the Lancaster buildings commence. In this tower, -which is also supported by uncommonly strong walls, are several -tolerably well preserved winding stairs, by means of which one can -ascend the walls to enjoy a fine and delightful prospect. Here are -likewise cellars, still in good condition. The corners of this tower -lead to small outer-towers provided with port-holes, which must have -served for the defence of the place. Left of this building you reach the -great hall. You observe in the basement story the servant's hall, -vaulted and furnished with central columns, which support the broken -arches to the right and left. Over those arches is still to be seen -where the flooring of the grand banquet-hall stood. The windows of this -hall are very high, in a Gothic style, with columns in their centre. In -the recesses of the windows are still several stone benches, and there -are also two chimney-pieces to be seen in this hall. A smaller room is -connected with it, having likewise a fire-place, which served as a -chapel; and there is also a small closet, which the folks here call -Queen Elizabeth's dressing-room. - -The great hall forms the south-west corner of the castle, and the ruins -connected with it, belong to the southern wing. Close to the great hall, -there are two ruins, of which but little remains to be seen, the first -is called the white hall, the other the presence chamber. The so called -privy chamber is next to them, in which a window and fire-place are -still distinguishable; they say, that the chimney-piece, now in the -gate-house, was taken from this place. Here begins the newest part of -the castle, or the Leicester buildings. They consist of a large, -quadrangular tower, four stories high, in which the place for the -staircase, as well as the different stories, may still be clearly -distinguished. And here terminate these uncommonly interesting and -picturesque ruins, to the beauties of which the creeping ivy, which has -grown very thickly over them, adds considerably. Fortunately, Lord -Clarendon has forbidden, that any portion of the ruins should be taken -away, for previous to the prohibition of such an abuse, the peasantry -were in the habit of carrying away stones from the ruins to build their -houses and for repairing their garden-walls. - -From Kenilworth I travelled five miles through a lovely country to the -town of Warwick, the capital of Warwickshire, to behold the Earl of -Warwick's castle, at that place. Two miles from this town, lie the now -much visited and fashionable springs of Leamington, where with the -exception of the company, nothing remarkable is to be seen. Warwick -stands on stony heights, on the banks of the river Avon, contains about -nine thousand inhabitants, and though a very ancient city, has a -tolerably agreeable appearance. The principal church has an ancient and -venerable aspect, as also two gateways, the remains of the old city -walls, now standing in the middle of the streets. The court-house is a -new edifice, and as the town assizes were then holding, several splendid -equipages were drawn up in front of it. - -I immediately afterwards proceeded to the castle close to the city. It -is a very old building, the foundation of which, it is said, was laid -before the conquest of England by the Normans; the walls and towers -still standing, which environ the court-yard of the castle, are said to -have been erected at that period. The castle stands upon a rock by the -bank of the Avon, and commands a view of a surprisingly romantic -country. At the foot of this ancient castle, at the water's edge, are -the castle mills, which on account of their venerable appearance, and -the waterfall, caused by a dam in the river, greatly enhance the beauty -of the scene. Behind the mill are to be seen the ruins of a bridge which -led over the river, and is now overgrown with ivy. Quite in the back -ground, one discovers the new bridge over which the road from Leamington -runs. These groups produce an uncommonly pleasing prospect. - -On approaching the castle from the city, you see a gate with a Gothic -tower, which serves as a habitation for the gate-keeper. Hence, after -inscribing your name in a book, you continue on your way to the castle. -This road leads through the park, and is mostly cut in the rock, the -sides of which are very picturesquely overgrown with ivy. - -On attaining an open space, the whole castle stands in view; it is -approached over a stone bridge, through a gate furnished with a -portcullis, and then you find yourself in a spacious court-yard, the -castle standing to your left, in front, and to the right the lofty walls -that surround the court-yard, studded with towers. Grated gates lead -underneath the towers, to the park that surrounds the castle. I entered -the castle up a handsome spacious staircase, and there I found the neat -house-keeper, who for money and good words, shows strangers the interior -of the castle. - -First you enter the great hall, the walls are lined with carved oak -wood, and ornamented with scutcheons and ancient arms, and with three -real colossal elk-horns, the largest of which was found in Ireland, and -the other two in America. From this hall there is a fine view into a -considerable suite of rooms, and from the windows the charming prospect -of the Avon, and the before-mentioned mills and bridges. - -From the hall you proceed into the ante-room; here I admired two -paintings by Van Dyk; one represents a lady as large as life, belonging -to the Brooke family, with her son; the other is the portrait of Queen -Henrietta Maria, the consort of Charles the first. In the same room is -to be seen, the extremely handsome portrait of Queen Johanna of Naples, -by Raphael; also the portrait of the Marquis Spinola, armed cap-a-pied, -a painting of Rubens; the portrait of count Gondomar, the Spanish -ambassador, near the court of James I., a production of Don Diego -Velasquez de Silva; and two very charming landscapes, by Poussin, which -however, require to be retouched. In the same room there is a table -inlaid in Florentine mosaic, two vases of lava, several Etruscan vases -and lances, which are to be seen in almost all the rooms, a marble bust -of the present Lord Warwick, by Nollekens, and a book-case of tortoise -shell inlaid with brass. - -Adjoining this chamber is the cedar drawing-room, so called, because the -walls are wainscoted with cedar wood, which, notwithstanding its -antiquity, sends forth a charming odour. There is likewise in this room -a handsome fire-place, and a marble table, inlaid with lava. Among the -paintings are five by Van Dyk, viz. the Countess of Carlisle, -Charles I., the Duke of Alba, the Marquis of Montrose and the landscape -painter, Martin Ryckaerds. Beside these there is a Circe of Guido, -a very beautiful piece, and two paintings of less value, one by Romney, -representing the celebrated E. W. Montague in a Turkish costume, and the -other by Patoun, representing a muse. - -Adjoining this hall there is a room, which, owing to the heavy gildings -on its walls, is called the gilt-room. Here are two paintings by Rubens, -the one of Lord Arundel, the collector of the celebrated antiquities at -Oxford, known by the name of the Arundelian marbles, and the other -representing St. Ignatius. This piece was painted by Rubens, for the -Jesuits College at Antwerp, and was transported hither from that city. -There is also a well painted portrait of Prince Rupert, by an unknown -artist, another of the Prince of Orange, by Holbein; the portrait of a -lady, by Sir Peter Lely; several of Vandyk's productions, one -representing Admiral Russell, and another a Spanish General; by the same -master hand, the portraits of Charles I., Lord Northumberland, Queen -Henrietta Maria, two portraits of the celebrated Lord Stafford, one of -them representing this unfortunate statesman in his earlier, and the -other in his latter years, the portrait of Lord Warwick, a full-size -portrait of Prince Rupert, and another of the Marquis of Huntley. Those -portraits are altogether executed in a masterly manner. The portrait of -a lady, by Sir Peter Lely; two small Murillos, one representing a girl -with a pen, and the other a child, blowing soap-bubbles; moreover, -a portrait of Lord Lindsay of Charles 1st's time, by Cornelius Janssen, -and a Tintoretto, representing the Italian sage Davila. It it a pity -that several of these pictures hung in the shade, and that in the -usually clouded atmosphere of England, they cannot be properly seen. -In this as well as in the ante-room, were several vessels by Majolica, -ornamented with handsome paintings copied from drawings of Raphael. - -You next proceed to the state bed-room, hung with old tapestry, -representing French gardens. The richly ornamented bed is said to have -been fitted up by the order of Queen Ann. It contains a bust of the -Black Prince in full armour by Wildon, and three paintings, a full-size -portrait of the Duchess Margaret of Parma, by Titian, a family portrait -by Sir Peter Lely, and a profile of the unhappy Earl of Essex, done by -Zucchero, an Italian painter, whom political causes had driven from his -native land to England, where he received protection, patronage, and a -friendly reception from Queen Elizabeth. - -Next to this room is the small state dressing-room, from the windows of -which there is an extensive and fine prospect. It contains a precious -collection of paintings; one by Paul Veronese; a very grand sketch by -Rubens, of the four evangelists; two old men's heads by the same master; -two landscapes by Salvator Rosa; four Vandyk's, consisting of the second -Earl of Bedford; tritons and sea-horses; a study; a sketch of St. -Sebastian, and a bacchanalian scene; two by Gerard Douw, one an -excellent portrait of a Mrs. Digby, abbess of a convent, and the other -an effect of light, representing an old woman eating; two by Teniers, -scenes of witches and the interior of a watch-house, hung with armour; -three Holbeins, the first a portrait of Luther, the second the -unfortunate Ann Boleyn, and the third her sister Catharine Boleyn, aunt -and tutress of Queen Elizabeth, and in the midst of these portraits, -that of Henry VIII. in his childhood. There are two pieces by Steenwyck, -one representing St. Peter in prison, and the other his liberation -therefrom. Portraits of two of Charles the second's mistresses are -likewise to be seen here, as also a copy of a portrait of Henry IV. -of France, by Patoun. - -A small cabinet, called the Compass Window, adjoins the just mentioned -apartment; it takes its name from a painted window. Among the paintings -in this room are a battle piece by Schut, a sea-storm by Vandervelde, -and several invaluable pieces. - -From this cabinet you enter the chapel by a gallery which runs in the -rear of the before-mentioned room. I remarked in it a full-length -portrait of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyk, and a half-length -portrait of Oliver Cromwell, by R. Walker. The chapel is rather small, -contains the arms of the Warwick family, and over the altar Gothic -ornaments, carved in wood. - -On returning to the large hall, you reach the dining-room through it. It -is a splendid, large hall, containing an ancient marble table, and three -large portraits of the Prince of Wales, grandfather of the present king, -his consort a princess of Gotha, holding George III. in baby-clothes on -her lap; a Lord Brook, a copy by Patoun, who, as preceptor to Lord -Warwick, was more of an amateur than a painter. These paintings are -devoid of taste, and the best things about them are their heavy gilt and -ornamented frames. Over the portrait of the princess are the arms of -Saxony. - -Adjoining the large hall is likewise the breakfast-room. In this room -are the following most excellently executed paintings: Charles 1st's -children, by Vandyk, and a portrait of a female, by the same artist; two -lions, by Rubens; and a full-length portrait of Admiral Tromp, by -Rembrandt. Three paintings by an unknown master; the unfortunate Mary -Stuart, with her son as a child; a Lord Brooke, and Sir Philip Sydney. - -After I had inspected the castle, I passed out through a private gate in -the lofty wall of the castle-yard, and proceeded to the park over a -stone bridge that crosses the dry castle moat. Groves are beautifully -interspersed with bowling greens in this park; a solid pebbled path -takes you round the park in about half an hour. There are several fine -prospects, and the place is well stocked with evergreens, which during -the last winter, I had many opportunities of admiring in a state of -nature. Three years ago, while journeying for the first time through -Great Britain, I could not help admiring in the English parks, the -luxurious abundance of evergreens and their lovely growth; but after -beholding these plants in their native land, growing in their full -vigour, the most splendid English gardens dwindled into insignificance, -when compared with the beauties of nature in America. I observed a -number of fine lofty cedars of Lebanon, which are to be found in most of -the extensive English gardens. In this park there is also a very large -hot-house, the plants raised in which are now elegantly distributed -throughout the garden. In this hot-house I perceived the celebrated -antique vase, the copy of which, in bronze, I had seen at Mr. Thomason's -in Birmingham. This remarkable antique was found not far from Hadrian's -Villa in the vicinity of Tivoli. It was first purchased by Sir William -Hamilton, then English ambassador at Naples, who sold it to the late -Lord Warwick. It is of white marble, round in form, and will hold one -hundred and sixty-three gallons. It has two handles of entwined vine -branches, which with their elegant leaves and heavy clusters of grapes, -wind themselves round the upper part of the vase. On the under part is -seen the panther's skin, and on it several well finished heads of -satyrs, as well as several thyrsus and augur staves. The vase is in a -state of high preservation, and only one satyr's head is replaced; the -remaining ornaments are not in the least injured. - -During my walk through the park, I passed along the bank of the Avon, -which runs at the foot of the rock, on which the castle is built. On a -small black slate, attached to the rock, there is an inscription, -stating that a young man, one of the Bagot family, was drowned there -while bathing. The unfortunate father has erected this little monument -to the memory of his son. On my return to the castle, I ascended one of -the towers, called Gay's tower, about one hundred and fifty feet high; -this tower is very well preserved, and is provided with fortifications. -In the interior there is a small room, and from the top of the tower -there is a fine and extensive prospect. - -On my return to the city, the stage for Stratford-on-Avon was about -starting; I took a seat, and after eight miles journey, found myself -once more on the grand turnpike leading from Birmingham to Oxford. - -Stratford is a small, inconsiderable, ill-built town, but celebrated as -the birth place of SHAKSPEARE. One of the smallest houses bears the -following inscription, "in this house the great Shakspeare was born." It -is now a butcher's stall and belongs to strangers, to whom Shakspeare's -posterity were compelled by poverty to dispose of it. It is said that he -was born in a room of the Upper story; in this apartment are several old -pieces of furniture, the existence of which they flatteringly endeavour -to trace from the days of Shakspeare, also a poor portrait of the poet, -and a copy of his will; and a spectacle case made of the wood of a -mulberry tree, which they say was planted by him. - -At Stratford I took a post-chaise, proceeded on my journey, and at ten -o'clock in the evening reached Oxford, which is thirty-nine miles from -Stratford. I took up my lodgings in the Star Hotel. As I had seen Oxford -three years previous, I merely sojourned there half a day, with the -intention of beholding once more, in the Bodleian Library, the lovely -portrait of the unfortunate Mary Stuart, painted by Zucchero, and which -had formerly pleased me so much that I considered it as the best -likeness I had ever seen of that interesting woman. I therefore -proceeded to that library: I hurried through the library hall, but made -a much longer stay in the gallery of paintings. The sight of the -portrait of Mary Stuart renewed all my old impressions, and I gazed -intently upon it for a considerable time with the greatest pleasure. -I likewise remarked a collection of seven paintings by Schalk, effects -of light, representing the seven mortal sins, very well painted, -moreover a number of pieces by English painters, and a number of -portraits of the patrons and benefactors of the university, of its -chancellors, and several of the most celebrated literati who had resided -in the university. Also a few by Holbein, among which, the portraits of -Luther and Erasmus, pleased me the most. A full-length likeness of -Charles XII. of Sweden, by Schroeder, is uncommonly well finished; of -the same size, and next to it, hangs the portrait of Frederic William I. -King of Prussia. The physiognomy of the former, and the entire form, are -expressive of the great and original genius of that monarch; there is -something abhorrent, pedantic, and tyrannical in the features of the -latter. - -The library contains several models of Grecian architecture, which are -skilful imitations in plaster; also a model of the Parthenon at Athens, -which very agreeably recalled to my mind Philadelphia and the Bank of -the United States. Here is likewise to be seen a model of the -Amphitheatre of Verona, cut in cork, and an elegant collection of the -Elgin marble bas reliefs, well imitated in plaster. A full-length statue -of one of the Lords of Warwick, in bronze, representing him in a warlike -costume, is also well worthy of the attention of travellers. - -After having here satisfied my curiosity, I went to the Radcliff -Library, which is built in the form of a cupola, in order to enjoy a -view of the city from its roof. Fortunately the weather was very clear, -which seldom occurs in England, and as there are no manufactories and -steam-engines in Oxford, the atmosphere is not obscured by coal smoke. -The city, owing to its ancient university and churches, has a singular -appearance, and though I had seen during my travels a great many cities, -still I found none to be compared with Oxford. The university, its -twenty colleges, and five halls, have the appearance of so many old -castles: such is also the appearance of the Bodleian Library, that -stands near the Radcliff library. In the court-yard of the former, there -is a gate, in which the five orders of architecture are placed over each -other, which produces a strange effect. Near the gate are four Tuscan -pillars, over these four Doric, above these four Ionic, and again over -these four Corinthian, and this strange conjunction is terminated by -four Roman columns. Two columns are always joined together. Between the -fourth row, the statue of James I. stands in a niche, next which, on the -right, as I believe, there is a Minerva, and on the left the university -is personified by a kneeling figure, to whom the learned king most -graciously tenders his own works. Four thousand students are said to -belong to the university, but there were very few then present, it being -vacation time. Therefore the city with its ancient buildings, looked -rather dull. - -At twelve o'clock, noon, on the 19th of July, I left Oxford in the -post-chaise, and proceeded to London, which although fifty-eight miles -from Oxford, I reached in six hours. It is incredible how fast one -travels on this route and how quick they change horses. I was by chance -enabled to retain the chaise all the way from Oxford to Hounslow. The -moment I arrived at a post-house, a servant came instantly to demand, -whether I wished to stop or proceed; no sooner did I answer in the -affirmative, than he would call out for horses, and the whole proceeding -lasted at the utmost one minute. The leader was brought out, ready -harnessed, and put to; the postillion followed on the saddle-horse from -the stable, and remained in the saddle while they were gearing the -horses; the stable boy then requested his fee, and off we went. During -this journey, I was only detained three minutes at each post. They -charge for carriage and horses, eighteen pence a mile, and the -drink-money, three pence per mile. Since my journeying in this country -three years previous, postage had been raised three pence. - -The road lay through a cultivated and woody country, and we traversed -several rising grounds. We passed many fine large country-seats, -surrounded by extensive parks. From Salt Hill, which is a very pretty -little place, there is on the right, a charming view of the castle of -Windsor, two miles distant, on the lofty round tower of which was -displayed the royal standard as a sign that the king was there. The -castle has really a very imposing appearance. The large Gothic church of -Eton College, recalled unpleasant recollections to my mind. For on my -visit to this college, three years past, they showed me on a shelf a -number of elegantly tied, long birch rods, with which youth, engaged -there in study, are flogged, and for the supply of which, a regular -contract is made with the steward. In a handsome village, called Slough, -stands the dwelling of the celebrated German astronomer, Herschel; there -is still to be seen in the garden, the stand supporting the telescope, -forty-eight feet long, by five feet in diameter, with which Herschel -made his great astronomical discoveries. Hounslow is a charming town, -and very lively, owing to its proximity to London. The number of stages -and other carriage, which I met with in this neighbourhood, is scarcely -to be credited. This concourse of vehicles, and afterwards the multitude -of country-seats, which follow one another in rapid succession, together -with the chain of towns, that continually present themselves, indicated -clearly, that I was approaching the greatest city in Europe, and perhaps -in the world. I remarked in Hammersmith and in Kensington, -a considerable number of new and handsomely built houses, that had been -erected within the last three years. We drove through Hyde Park into -Piccadilly street, and thence into Albemarle street, where I found -excellent quarters in Grillion's hotel. - -I made a stay of six days in London. To speak of the circle of my -acquaintance in which I moved during my residence in this bustling city, -would ill become this book, and to make any mention of London itself -would be both useless and superfluous. Consequently, I shall present but -a few particulars. - -Whoever is obliged to make many visits to London, or whose business -takes him to many houses, loses an enormous quantity of time; to him one -day is as nothing. From my hotel to Mr. Goeman's,[II-40] who resides in -the city, in the neighbourhood of the East India company's stores, it -took me three quarters of an hour. At first to a stranger, a walk of -this kind is by no means tedious, on account of the great and strange -bustle surrounding him. In the stirring part of the city there is a -store in almost every house, and as the English are known to possess -much taste in displaying their wares, these stores have an amusing, -interesting, and charming appearance. In most of the streets the -pavement had been cast aside, and the streets were Macadamised; an -improvement which is both beneficial to those who ride, and to the -poor-built houses, which, owing to the rolling of heavy carriages along -the pavement, were dreadfully shaken. I had long been aware that several -merchants and tradesmen decorated their signs with the names of those -members of the royal family, by whom they were particularly patronised, -viz. corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent, &c.; this time I -remarked in Knight's bridge, on my way to Kensington, a sign bearing the -inscription of "only purveyor of asses milk to the royal family." -Through the medium of Mr. Goeman, I received from the celebrated -engineer Brunel, an admission to visit the new tunnel, under the Thames; -it was a five miles drive from my lodgings. The entrance is near the -church of Rotherhithe. To commence the work they had to dig a round pit -seventy-five feet deep, above twenty feet in diameter, and walled in -with bricks. In the centre of this pit they have constructed a -quadrangular wooden scaffold. On this is erected a pumping machine, by -which the spring water that gushes out from the tunnel, is pumped off. -The water collects itself in a basin under the scaffold. The ejection of -it is accomplished by means of an iron pump, which draws off the water -from the basin, and forces it into an iron tube, which passes out from -the pit. Another pump and tube is in reserve to be immediately used, in -case the former should require repair. In the interior of this scaffold -there are two buckets, to hoist the earth from out the tunnel, one of -which comes up filled while the other goes down empty. These buckets -have four small iron wheels, and rest upon a board. The moment it -reaches the top, it is received by a workman, who carries it twenty feet -along a railway, to the place for depositing the earth, and after -emptying it carries it back on its board; that it may be let down while -the other is coming up filled. The place, into which the earth is -thrown, is a large wooden receiver, which is erected in the manner of a -bridge. In the bottom of this receiver are several holes, which can be -opened and closed by means of slides. The wagons destined for carrying -away the earth, drive underneath such a hole, the slide then is drawn -back, and the wagon is filled with earth and drives off. Up to this time -none but silicious earth has been dug out of the tunnel, and this was -appropriated to the filling up of the swampy ground, near Southwark. But -now they find clay, which is used in burning bricks. The machinery, by -which the buckets are hoisted and lowered, and that moves the pump, is -set in motion by a species of steam-engine, called the expansive engine, -an invention of Mr. Brunel. I did not perfectly comprehend its -mechanism, and could only perceive that it occupies a very small space, -and acts with great facility; there are two boilers and two machines, -one of which is unemployed, but can immediately be set in motion, -whenever any thing happens to the other, so that nothing may stop the -work. - - [Footnote II-40: A respectable London merchant, and native of - Flanders, to whom I am much indebted for very important services.] - -Around the wooden scaffold, stairs run down to the bottom of the pit. -My guide, Mr. Armstrong, who inspects the work under Mr. Brunel's -direction, conducted me. When arrived at the bottom of the pit, we found -ourselves at the entrance of the tunnel, which then ran already, one -hundred and twenty feet under ground, to the bed of the Thames. It was -conceived that about one-third part of the work had been completed. The -tunnel consists of two vaults for two passages, one of them is for -carriages passing in, and the other for those going out. Along the -partition wall of those two vaults, there is on each side a somewhat -elevated side-walk for pedestrians; this wall is open in some places in -order to admit of a communication between both walks. It is lighted by -means of portable gas, which is contained in copper barrels. - -The manner that the work is conducted, cannot be clearly explained -without a drawing. The scaffold, upon which the workmen stand who are -employed in digging out the earth, consists of thirty-six small boxes, -lying in three rows above each other. This scaffold is at the end of the -tunnel, and rests exactly against the earth to be taken away. There are -three men in each box, one to break the ground with a pick-axe, the -other to shovel it out of the box, and the third to throw it on a cart, -in which it is carried into the pit, whence it is raised in the buckets. -For the safety of the workmen, cross-timbers are used to prop up the -earth that is to be dug out. The first workman, on beginning his -excavation, removes the upper beam and hacks out the earth behind it; -which done, he takes away the second beam, and removes the second tier -of earth, then the third, &c. If sufficient earth, about a foot wide, -has been dug away from behind the first box, then the two boxes -adjoining, begin the same operation. During this time the masons are not -idle; for they continue working in the same proportion at the vault -which has to support the earth above the tunnel. When, however, all the -earth before the whole scaffold has been taken away, it is moved forward -by means of steel screws. Both above and below the scaffold there are -iron plates, with sharp edges, to facilitate the moving of it. On this -plan the work proceeds at the rate of two feet in twenty-four hours; it -is hoped that it would be completed in two years time; they have been -over a year already working at it. I regret very much my not having met -with Mr. Brunel, who is likewise the inventor of the block-machine at -Portsmouth, and other very useful engines. - -In Leicester square there were two fine panoramas; one representing the -city of Edinburgh, and the other that of Mexico;[II-41] the former -panoramic view was taken from Caltonhill, and I recognized every place, -owing to my having been there three years previous. In beholding the -second, I regretted anew that my affairs during the last winter did not -permit me to undertake a journey to Mexico. The beautiful blue sky -reminded me of the happy days I passed in New Orleans, and I recognized -the lofty Andes from the description, which I have so often read of -them. Mexico deserves, if I am to judge from the panorama, to be called -the city of palaces, as it is generally styled. In order to give an idea -of the manners of the people, the artist gives a representation of the -circus on the great square during the time of a bull-fight, and not far -from it a procession. - - [Footnote II-41: [Now exhibiting in New York.]--TRANS.] - -At Regent's place a diorama was to be seen. You are conducted into a -pretty dark round saloon, and you perceive there, through a square hole, -a painting that is lighted in a manner which cannot be discovered. The -painting represents a church in Scotland called Rosslyn chapel. You seem -to be at the entrance of the church, and you see that the sun darts his -beams from the side and causes multifarious shades, on account of the -bushes and trees in front of the windows of the church. In the rear of -the church you see a small door, leading to a yard, planted with -underwood, and in the back ground, a Gothic building. By and by the sun -disappears, and you perceive by the effect of light, that a storm is -approaching; then you see the effect of rain, and after this disappears, -you enjoy the finest sunshine. The illusion is so perfect, that you seem -to hear the rain. In the interior of the church several objects are -represented with the greatest accuracy, viz. a part of a scaffold, to -which ropes are attached, a basket with tools, &c. The Gothic pillars of -the church display a particularly handsome view. - -After having contemplated this painting for a considerable time, -a signal is given with a bell. The floor on which the spectators stand, -turns to another opening through which you have a view of the city of -Rouen, in France. Now the same effects of light as in the other piece -are displayed, and you imagine yourself to be in the place, which is -represented to your sight. But the first piece made the best impression -on me. The finest part of this diorama is the representation of interior -parts of buildings. - -I was delighted at the fine view of the newly-finished buildings of -Regent's park, the construction of which was begun during my visit three -years ago. This new quarter consists of palaces. At Mr. Ackermann's -store I enjoyed a sight of the greatest variety of fancy articles. It is -only to be regretted that the works published at his establishment are -so very expensive. I had the pleasure of becoming personally acquainted -with Mr. Ackermann, this venerable philanthropist is plain in -appearance, but is very interesting in his conversation. He spoke much -with me about my happily finished travels, and invited me to his -country-seat; but I was obliged to decline this invitation on account of -the short time which remained at my disposal. I next visited the store -of another German, a cutler and manufacturer of surgical instruments, -Mr. Weiss; he is a native of Rostock, but already more than thirty years -established in this city, and particularly in making surgical -instruments, he is said to be the first manufacturer in England. He -showed me several apparatus and instruments, among which there was one -for removing a stone, without the necessity of performing the operation -of cutting. He showed me the cast of a stone as large as a chesnut, -which had been extracted from the bladder of a man, without any cutting -operation. Moreover, he showed me a poison pump of his own invention, by -means of which, poisons that have been swallowed, may be extracted from -the stomach. This machine consists of a brass tube which contains the -pump; to this is attached a long tube of elastic gum, which terminates -in a sack of the same substance provided with holes. This tube is passed -through the throat into the stomach, and when the sack has entered the -stomach, the poison is pumped through the flexible tube into the brass -one. By turning the handle of the pump the gum tube is closed; then it -is forced down again, by means of which another valve on the other side -of the brass tube opens, and to this another elastic tube is attached, -through which the extracted poison is ejected. Then the handle is turned -a second time, which closes this valve and opens the first one, leading -to the tube that is fixed in the stomach, and the operation is continued -until no poison is left in the stomach. Mr. Weiss told me, that some -weeks ago, by means of this instrument, his son had saved the life of a -girl, who had taken a considerable dose of arsenic in a fit of amorous -desperation. - -The English nobility give, at certain times, in the British institution, -Pallmall street, a public exhibition of their collections of precious -paintings. Just now there was the king's collection of paintings from -his palace, Carlton-house, because they were about to demolish this -palace, and in its place erect an edifice after the model of the -Parthenon at Athens, which is calculated to contain the works of English -artists. This is a fine idea, and certainly encouraging for the artists -of this nation, but it is a pity that it causes the destruction of this -elegant palace. The British institution is a building which consists of -three large halls, and which receive their light from above. The -collection mostly contained paintings of Flemish artists, some English, -and a few Italian and French. There were seven pieces by Rubens, amongst -which I particularly noticed his own likeness and that of his first -wife, finished in the same manner as those in the collection of Mr. -Schamp at Ghent, and at Warwick Castle; besides these, a landscape with -figures, representing the history of St. George, with the portraits of -Queen Henrietta Maria and Charles I. for whom it was done. Seven -paintings by Vandyk, among which the portraits of Charles I. in three -views, which his lady had sent to the statuary Bernini at Rome, to -finish the bust of the king therefrom. A sketch, studies of horses and -horsemen, of remarkable value, and a full-size portrait of Gaston de -France, and two portraits of Queen Henrietta Maria, which, like that of -her unfortunate husband, I might call unavoidable, because it is to be -found almost in every collection of paintings in England. I found seven -pieces by Rembrandt, among which were several excellent portraits, and -his own; they were all easily distinguished by his particular colouring. -Fourteen paintings by Teniers, collections of people; small portraits; -a view of the towns of Holland, and a couple of landscapes, one of which -represents likewise, the artist, his wife, and his gardener; a real -ornament to this collection. One of these pieces, representing a village -festival, had been on the artist's harpsichord. I admired two other -pieces, in the same style, by J. Ostade, and seven by A. Ostade; six by -Jan Steen. One of the latter, very excellently finished, represented an -elderly man, just rising from bed, who is listening to the reproaches of -a young girl, for his niggardliness; she holds forth to him a trifle of -money, and an old woman is urging him to be more generous. Four effects -of light, by Schalken, and a portrait by Holbein, are likewise worthy of -attention. Nine pieces by Wouverman are easily distinguished by the -white horses, representing skirmishes and country scenes. Seven pictures -by Mieris are to be known by their fine keeping. Three pieces are by -G. Douw, one by Slingelandt, and five by Metzu. A landscape by Ruisdael, -and two by Hobbema, attracted my particular attention, as well as eleven -pieces by Vandevelde, representing sea-pieces, landscapes, and views of -several cities of Holland; two of the latter are finished by him and -Vanderheyden jointly; I observed likewise, four very fine pieces by -Vanderwerff, one of them representing the Roman Mercy, the other a -concert, the third Lot with his daughters, and the fourth two children. - -The collection is likewise rich in paintings of animals; there are four -capital works by G. Potter, one of them representing two hogs, as true -as if they were living. A piece by Hondekoeter, representing a chicken, -belongs likewise to this class, as well as ten pieces by Cuyp, in which -the landscapes are very well finished. Among these I enjoyed -particularly a camp-scene with a horseman in the fore-ground, engaged in -currying his horse. Six very good pieces, by Berghem ought not to be -omitted, nor a handsome sea-piece by Buckhuizen, with a view of Briel in -the back-ground. - -Besides these pieces, there is a good collection of other paintings of -the same school, but it would lead me too far, to mention them all. From -other schools there are but a few and of less value. A landscape with -sheep, by Titian; Christ taken down from the Cross, by Michael Angelo -and Venusti, and another piece by Gonzalez. Among the paintings of -modern times, I found the portrait of Garrick and his wife, by Hogarth; -a domestic scene, by Greuze, and several pieces of an Italian painter, -Zeffani. One of them, which has become more generally known by the -copperplate of Bartolozzi, represents the Royal Academy of London, and -the other the Gallery of Florence, with the portraits of several -Englishmen of note, who sojourned at that time in Florence. By the same -artist I saw two pieces, representing the interior of two royal palaces, -with the children of George III. and their mother. These tasteless -pieces, compared with the before-mentioned elegant paintings, make an -unpleasant impression. I saw eight pieces by Sir Joshua Reynolds, among -which his own portrait and two full-size portraits of the Portuguese -Chief Marshal Count von der Lippe, and of the English General Marquis of -Granby. These two pieces are masterly works, and full of expression. You -distinguish in the countenance of Count von der Lippe and in his whole -posture, his profound and enterprising spirit, and in the features of -Lord Granby his great benevolence, which procured him in the army the -name of the soldier's friend. The features of the count excite respect, -while those of the lord claim your attachment. I was much less pleased -with the historical pieces of Sir Joshua. The most handsome of the newer -paintings was undoubtedly the interior of the choir of a Capuchin chapel -by the French painter Granet. The expression of the countenances of the -monks is unparalleled; in some you see piety, in others listlessness; -another couple make sport of the exceeding piety of a monk, kneeling in -the middle of the hall; the countenance of a young, tall, stout monk, is -the personification of fanaticism. Near the altar stands a monk in the -sacerdotal habit, with two choristers and tapers in their hands, the -monk singing a hymn. The light is very well executed; it enters through -a large window in the back ground, and makes a fine effect on the bare -crown of the head and the gray beard of the priest. I think this piece -one of the finest of the whole collection. I saw here a great many -gentlemen and ladies, and it is said to be fashionable to visit this -splendid gallery in the afternoon. - -On the 26th of July, (the anniversary of the day on which I first landed -on American ground at Boston,) I went to the custom-house for the -purpose of taking passage for Ostend on board the steam-boat Earl of -Liverpool, Captain Peak, which was laying there at anchor. At the -custom-house I was quite surprised. I expected to see the splendid, -newly-erected palace for the offices of the custom-house, the same -which, three years ago, I had admired so much, and instead of it, found -nothing but ruins. They said that the foundation had not been well -enough examined upon which the custom-house had been built by contract; -the building cracked, the large, splendid hall was near falling down, -and in order to prevent this accident, they were obliged to demolish the -centre building; both wings of the building were yet supported by beams, -but they soon will have to demolish them likewise, in order to build an -entirely new house. The gentleman who made the contract to have the -house built, lays the blame of this bad work upon the architect, and he -upon a commission, under whose control he acted. - -The Earl of Liverpool, of one hundred and thirty tons, with two engines, -left London at eleven o'clock, A. M., and on the next morning at six -o'clock I landed at Ostend. At four o'clock, P. M. I proceeded by the -way of Bruegge to Ghent. During this journey I remembered an observation -which I had heard frequently in America, that upon an American visiting -Europe for the first time, nothing makes a greater impression than the -old monuments, which trace the time past for many centuries, and which -are a proof of the prosperity and good taste of preceding generations. -I found this observation perfectly true, by my own feelings on returning -from America, which exhibits none but new objects, and has nothing but a -bustling present struggling for future improvement. - -On the 28th of July, at four o'clock, P. M., I arrived at Ghent. - - - THE END. - - - * * * * * - * * * * - * * * * * - - -Errors and Inconsistencies (noted by transcriber) - -Spelling was corrected if the mistake was clearly mechanical, or -inconsistent with the author's (or translator's) usage elsewhere. -This includes some spellings that were acceptable in 1828, but are -different from other occurrences of the same word. - -All commas are as printed. Inconsistent italicization of ships' names -is as in the original. The notation "invisible" means that there is an -appropriately sized empty space, but the punctuation itself is missing. - - "Bodleian" is written with dieresis - "chesnut" is standard for the time and is used consistently - "team boat" (referring to canals) is not an error - - "lime-stone" and "sand-stone" are hyphenated at the beginning - of the book but later become single words - "free-stone" or "freestone" are not frequent enough to establish - a pattern - "country seat" starts out as two words, but later becomes - hyphenated "country-seat" - the inconsistent spacing of "no( )where" "every( )where" - and "else( )where" is unchanged - "back ground" is generally two words; "fore-ground" occurs only once - -Spelling (unchanged): - - appointed him his aid - present as aid to the Emperor - Mr. Butler, his aid - [_the spelling "aid" is used consistently_] - the tatoed and dried head of a New Zealand chief - roast-beef, plumb-pudding, &c. - This place is called the antichamber. - it is fixed in a cramp [_text unchanged: error for "clamp"?_] - some negroes, who were frolicing during the Christmas holy-days - corset inventress to the Dutchess of Kent - [_"Duchess" and "Dutchess" are each used once_] - -French (corrected): - - From the left wing a line runs _en cremaillere_ - [cremaillere] - When a lady is left sitting, she is said to be "bredouille." - [bredouille] - so that they would consider their labour in the light of a corvee. - [corvee] - -Errors (corrected): - - strange bas-reliefs, representing ancient hunting scenes - [bass-reliefs] - the rooms are not large; the beds [is not] - On the top of the capitol is a cupola [cupalo] - the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings - of insignificance and grandeur [simultaneons ... insignificence] - then a company of sappers and miners, [minors] - in which again each sex has its own side [each sect] - There are two paintings by Teniers [painting] - the office and place of deposit for bound bibles [deposite] - They recall to memory Glenn's Falls on the Hudson - [recal; _"recall" is used consistently elsewhere_] - the other loses by faint colouring [looses] - an English copy of the illustrations of Goethe's Faust laid open. - [illustratrations; _spelling "Goethe" with umlaut unchanged_] - In a hollow place there is a basin, or rather a reservoir [their is] - close by it stands the prison, or county gaol, [goal] - this journey of one hundred and ninety-eight miles [ninty-eight] - the log houses were only employed as negro cabins [onegr] - we might lie several days, perhaps weeks here [several day] - because they had not received their pay for some time. - [_missing "not"_] - Several of the French families here settled [familes] - so as not to lose themselves in the woods [loose] - and on this account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary [acount] - has followed me even in America like an evil genius [and evil] - an inspection on the Red river, the Arkansas, and New Orleans - [Arkansa; _"Arkansas" is used consistently elsewhere_] - a great part of the houses are built of brick; [_missing "a"_] - We frequently rode along the new national turnpike road - [frequently road] - over some stone bridges of sumptuous construction [contruction] - about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio [righ] - parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. [callel] - the girls learn to sew and knit [sow] - The gentlemen above named accompanied me to the vessel. [accompaned] - every thing, manufactured in Birmingham, [Burmingham] - a fine view into a considerable suite of rooms [considerble] - until no poison is left in the stomach [stomuch] - -Spacing, hyphenization, capitalization: - - By his highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. - [_capitalized as shown_] - two stories besides a ground floor, and may contain [floor,and] - so that it is excellently adapted to waterworks - [_anomalous missing hyphen unchanged_] - They have a large kitchen garden [they have] - The corpse is put in the corpse-house [the corpse] - views of Monticello, Mount Vernon, the principal buildings in - Washington [Mount-Vernon] - many evergreen trees and bushes. [ever green] - with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman [Herries;he] - This is, however, the case with most of the stores [this is] - -Punctuation: - - Footnote I-4: [This manuscript .... of London.]--TRANS. - [_printed "of London.--TRANS.]": changed for consistency_] - On the 9th, at 6 A. M. she arrived at _Falmouth_. [6 A. M] - Schenectady.-- Utica.-- Rochester. [--Utica--] - and produce much vexation in consequence of the baggage. - [_final . missing_] - the village of St. Regis, the last belonging to the United States. - [_final . missing_] - a monument erected by the colony in honour of Lord Nelson. - [_final . missing_] - to protect the place of embarkation by a fort. - [_final . missing_] - On the ensuing morning I went with Mr. Halbach to Mr. Vaux - [Mr Vaux: _period invisible_] - mineralogy and geology.-- ... lectures on chemistry. - [_missing . after "geology" and "chemistry"_] - drawing of the human figure.-- [_final . missing_] - The cotton cleaned from its seed is put into a large chest, - pressed in, and packed up. - [_final . missing_] - Mr. Nott studied in England and France - [Mr Nott: _period invisible_] - the 16th ultimo from Liverpool [ultimo.] - [Footnote II-9: [... within these accursed walls.]--TRANS. - [_missing -- before "Trans."_] - the river is fordable in many places above the falls." - [_close quote missing_] - a diameter of one hundred and fifty yards during forty miles." - [_close quote missing_] - even this navigation so expensive and destructive to the wood, - will cease [_punctuation unchanged_] - one hundred and twenty horses, which daily work here, [work here.] - in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence - [St Lawrence] - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels Through North America, v. 1-2, by -Berhard Saxe-Weimar Eisenach - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS *** - -***** This file should be named 41913.txt or 41913.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/9/1/41913/ - -Produced by Louise Hope, Chris Curnow and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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