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diff --git a/43705-0.txt b/43705-0.txt index 123b1b9..b77a5e3 100644 --- a/43705-0.txt +++ b/43705-0.txt @@ -1,24 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and -Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2 - -Author: Charles Rochfort Scott - -Release Date: September 12, 2013 [EBook #43705] - -Language: English - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43705 *** Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from @@ -11314,365 +11294,4 @@ long turned a a deaf ear=> long turned a deaf ear {pg 430} End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43705-8.txt or 43705-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/0/43705/ - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2 - -Author: Charles Rochfort Scott - -Release Date: September 12, 2013 [EBook #43705] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Etext transcriber's note: The footnotes have been located after the -etext. Corrections of some obvious typographical errors have been made -(a list follows the etext); the spellings of several words currently -spelled in a different manner have been left un-touched. (i.e. -chesnut/chestnut; every thing/everything; Our's/Ours; Codoba/Cordoba; -sanitory/sanitary; your's/yours; janty/jaunty; visiters/visitors; -negociation/negotiation.) The accentuation of words in Spanish has not -been corrected or normalized. - -[Illustration: CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR - -_On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott_ - -_R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre_ - -_Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St._] - - - - - EXCURSIONS - - IN THE - - MOUNTAINS - - OF - - RONDA AND GRANADA, - - WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES - OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN. - - BY - - CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - - AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA." - - "_Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos - hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras._" - DON QUIJOTE. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - VOL. II. - - LONDON: - HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, - GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. - - 1838. - - LONDON: - - F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - - PAGE - -CHAPTER I. - -Departure from Cordoba--Post Road to -Cadiz--Carlota--Ecija--Carmona--Road from Ecija to -Gibraltar--Locusts--Osuna--Saucejo--An Olla in -perfection--Ronda--Splendid Scenery on the road to Grazalema--Distant -View of Zahara--Grazalema--Extensive Prospect from the Pass of -Bozal--Secluded Orchards of Benamajama--Pajarete--El -Broque--Ubrique--Difficult Road across the Mountains to Ximena--Our -Guide in a rage--Fine Scenery--Ximena--Strength of its Castle--Road to -Gibraltar 1 - -CHAPTER II. - -Departure for Cadiz--Road round the Bay of Gibraltar--Algeciras--Sandy -Bay--Gualmesi--Tarifa--Its Foundation--Error of Mariana in supposing it -to be Carteia--Battle of El Salado--Mistake of La Martiniere concerning -it--Itinerary of Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified--Continuation -of Journey--Ventas of Tavilla and Retin--Vejer--Conil--Spanish Method of -Extracting Good from Evil--Tunny Fishery--Barrosa--Field of -Battle--Chiclana--Road to Cadiz--Puente Zuazo--San Fernando--Temple of -Hercules--Castle of Santi Petri--Its Importance to Cadiz 33 - -CHAPTER III. - -Cadiz--Its Foundation--Various Names--Past Prosperity--Made a Free Port -in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar--Unjust Restrictions on -the Commerce of the British Fortress--Description of Cadiz--Its vaunted -Agremens--Society--Monotonous Life--Cathedral--Admirably built Sea -Wall--Naval Arsenal of La Carraca--Road to Xeres--Puerto Real--Puerto de -Santa Maria--Xeres--Its Filth--Wine Stores--Method of Preparing -Wine--Doubts of the Ancient and Derivation of the Present Name of -Xeres--Carthusian Convent--Guadalete--Battle of Xeres 64 - -CHAPTER IV. - -Choice of Roads to Seville--By Lebrija--Mirage--The Marisma--Post -Road--Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios--Difficulty of -Reconciling any of these Routes with that of the Roman -Itinerary--Seville--General Description of the City--The -Alameda--Display of Carriages--Elevation of the Host--Public -Buildings--The Cathedral--Lonja--American Archives--Alcazar--Casa -Pilata--Royal Snuff Manufactory--Cannon Foundry--Capuchin -Convent--Murillo--Theatre of Seville--Observations on the State of the -National Drama--Moratin--The Bolero--Spanish Dancing--The Spaniards not -a Musical People 90 - -CHAPTER V. - -Society of Seville--Spanish Women--Faults of Education--Evils of Early -Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance--Environs of Seville--Triana--San -Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce--Ruins of Italica--Italica not so ancient -a City as Hispalis--Young Pigs and the Muses--Departure from -Seville--The Marques De Las Amarillas--Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice -of the Late King of Spain--Alcala De Guadiara--Utrera--Observations on -the Strategical Importance of this Town--Moron--Military operations of -Riego--Apathy of the Serranos during the Civil War--Olbera--Remarks on -the Itinerary of Antoninus 123 - -CHAPTER VI. - -Ronda to Gaucin--Road to Casares--Difficulty in Procuring -Lodgings--Finally Overcome--The Cura's House--View of the Town from the -Ruins of the Castle--Its Great Strength--Ancient Name--Ideas of the -Spaniards regarding Protestants--Scramble to the Summit of the Sierra -Cristellina--Splendid View--Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of -Sketching--The Cura and his Barometer--Departure for the Baths of -Manilba--Romantic Scenery--Accommodation for Visiters--The Master of the -Ceremonies--Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar--River Guadiaro and -Venta 154 - -CHAPTER VII. - -The Baths of Manilba--A Specimen of Fabulous History--Properties of the -Hedionda--Society of the Bathing Village--Remarkable Mountain--An -English Botanist--Town of Manilba--An Intrusive Visiter--Ride to -Estepona--Return by way of Casares 179 - -CHAPTER VIII. - -A Shooting Party to the Mountains--Our Italian Piqueur, Damien -Berrio--Some Account of his Previous Life--Los Barrios--The Beautiful -Maid, and the Maiden's Levelling Sire--Road to Sanona--Reparation -against Bandits--Arrival at the Caseria--Description of its Owner and -Accommodations--Fine Scenery--A Batida 202 - -CHAPTER IX. - -Luis de Castro 226 - -CHAPTER X. - -Don Luis's Narrative is interrupted by a Boar--The Batida -resumed--Departure from Sanona--Road to Casa Vieja--The Priest's -House--Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants--Departure from Casa -Vieja--Alcala De Los Gazules--Road to Ximena--Return to -Gibraltar 249 - -CHAPTER XI. - -Departure for Madrid--Cordon drawn round the Cholera--Ronda--Road to -Cordoba--Teba--Erroneous Position of the Place on the Spanish Maps--Its -Locality agrees with that of Ategua, as described by Hirtius, and the -Course of the River Guadaljorce with that of the Salsus--Road to -Campillos--The English-loving Innkeeper and his Wife--An Alcalde's -Dinner spoilt--Fuente De Piedra--Astapa--Puente Don -Gonzalo--Rambla--Cordoba--Meeting with an old Acquaintance 267 - -CHAPTER XII. - -History of Blas El Guerrillero--_continued_ 294 - -CHAPTER XIII. - -Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid--Death of King -Ferdinand--Change in our Plans--Road to -Andujar--Alcolea--Montoro--Porcuna--Andujar--Arjono--Torre -Ximeno--Difficulty of Gaining Admission--Success of a -Stratagem--Consternation of the Authorities--Spanish Adherence to -Forms--Contrasts--Jaen--Description of the Castle, City, and -Cathedral--La Santa Faz--Road to Granada--Our Knightly -Attendant--Parador de San Rafael--Hospitable Farmer--Astonishment of the -Natives--Granada--El Soto de Roma--Loja--Venta de -Dornejo--Colmenar--Fine Scenery--Road from Malaga to Antequera, and -Description of that City 325 - -CHAPTER XIV. - -Malaga--Excursion of Marbella and -Monda--Churriana--Benalmania--Fuengirola--Discrepancy of Opinion -respecting the Site of Suel--Scale to be adopted, in order to make the -measurements given in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with the Actual -Distance from Malaga to Carteia--Errors of Carter--Castle of -Fuengirola--Road to Marbella--Tower and Casa Fuertes--Disputed Site of -Salduba--Description of Marbella--Abandoned Mines--Distance to -Gibraltar 363 - -CHAPTER XV. - -A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain--Road to -Monda--Secluded Valley of Ojen--Monda--Discrepancy of Opinion respecting -the Site of the Roman City of Munda--Ideas of Mr. Carter on the -Subject--Reasons adduced for concluding that Modern Monda occupies the -Site of the Ancient City--Assumed Positions of the Contending Armies of -Cneius Pompey and Cæsar, in the Vicinity of the Town--Road to -Malaga--Towns of Coin and Alhaurin--Bridge over the Guadaljorce--Return -to Gibraltar--Notable Instance of the Absurdity of Quarantine -Regulations 382 - -CHAPTER XVI. - -The Knight of San Fernando 410 - - -APPENDIX 439 - - - - -EXCURSIONS - -IN THE - -MOUNTAINS - -OF - -RONDA AND GRANADA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - DEPARTURE FROM CORDOBA--POST-ROAD TO - CADIZ--CARLOTA--ECIJA--CARMONA--ROAD FROM ECIJA TO - GIBRALTAR--LOCUSTS--OSUNA--SAUCEJO--AN OLLA IN - PERFECTION--RONDA--SPLENDID SCENERY ON THE ROAD TO - GRAZALEMA--DISTANT VIEW OF ZAHARA--GRAZALEMA--EXTENSIVE PROSPECT - FROM THE PASS OF BOZAL--SECLUDED ORCHARDS OF - BENAMAJAMA--PAJARETE--EL BROQUE--UBRIQUE--DIFFICULT ROAD ACROSS THE - MOUNTAINS TO XIMENA--OUR GUIDE IN A RAGE--FINE - SCENERY--XIMENA--STRENGTH OF ITS CASTLE--ROAD TO GIBRALTAR. - - -On leaving Cordoba, we turned our horses' heads homewards, taking the -_arrecife_, or high road, to Seville and Cadiz. This appears to follow -the _direct_ Roman military way given in detail in the Itinerary of -Antoninus; the distances from station to station, on the modern road, -agreeing perfectly with those specified in the Itinerary, which, as it -runs very straight as far as Ecija, would not be the case if the Roman -road had diverged either to the right or left, as some are disposed to -make it, placing _Adaras_ (one of the intermediate stations) on the -margin of the Guadalquivír. - -Several monuments, bearing inscriptions alluding to this military way, -are preserved at Cordoba. They all describe it as being from the temple -of Janus _to_ the Boetis, (meaning, it must be presumed, the _mouth_ -of the river) and to the ocean. - -The road is no longer paved, as it is described to have been in those -days; but, nevertheless, it is good enough to enable a lumbering -diligence to pulverize the gravel daily on its tedious way between -Madrid and Seville. It is also furnished with relays of post horses,[1] -but the posting establishments being, as in most other countries of -Europe, under the direction of the government, is a satire upon the term -_post haste_. - -From Cordoba to Ecija is ten leagues.[2] The road, on reaching the river -_Badajocillo_, or Guadajoz, which is crossed by a lofty stone bridge, -commanding a fine view of Cordoba, leaves the rich alluvial valley of -the Guadalquivír, and enters upon an undulated tract of country, that -extends nearly all the way to Ecija. At three leagues is the scattered -village and post-house of Mango-negro, and three leagues beyond that -again, the settlement of Carlota. The ride is most uninteresting; as, -besides being tamely outlined and thinly peopled, the country is nearly -destitute of wood, and, in the summer season, of water; though, judging -from the extraordinary number of bridges, especially on drawing near -Carlota, there must be a superabundance in winter. Carlota is one of the -numerous villages which Charles the Third colonized from the Tyrol. It -consists principally of isolated cottages, standing some hundred yards -apart, and the same distance from the road; but there is a small -congregation of houses round the chapel, post-house, and _Casa del -Ayuntamiento_,[3] and a _Gasthof_, which I can say, from personal -experience, would do no discredit to Innsbruck itself. - -The parish contains 250 houses, and a population of 1500 souls. The -fields round Carlota certainly appear to be better tilled than those in -other parts of the country, and there is a German tidiness about its -white cottages, as well as a platterfacedness about the little -white-headed urchins assembled round the doors, that are quite -anti-Spanish. - -We obtained an excellent dinner at the _Tyroler Adler_, and, in the -afternoon, taking a by-road that struck off from the post route to the -right, cantered through plantations of olives nearly all the way to -Ecija,--four leagues. In the whole of the distance we did not see a drop -of running water, until we arrived on the brow of the hill overlooking -the river Genil. From this spot there is a fine view of the city of -Ecija, situated on the opposite bank. - -The volume of the Genil increases but little between Granada and Ecija; -for its principal feeders, though falling into it below Granada, are -expended in irrigating the _vega_; and the _salados_, on the western -side of the _Serranía de Ronda_, are mostly dry during the summer. In -winter, however, the Genil is so increased, that the bridge at Ecija (a -solid stone structure of eleven arches,) is carried quite across the -valley, although the bed of the river is not above 100 yards wide. - -Ecija is the Astigi of the Romans. It stands on a gentle acclivity, some -little distance from the Genil, and bears evident marks of antiquity. -Almost all traces of its walls have disappeared, however; and what -little remains of its tapia-built castle shows it to have been a work of -the Moors. The principal streets are wide, and contain many good houses; -and the _plaza_ is particularly well worth a visit from the lovers of -the picturesque. - -The city contains sixteen convents, and two hospitals, with churches in -proportion. None of them offers much to interest the protestant -traveller; but, I believe, several boast of possessing valuable relics. -The Royal stud-house is fast going to decay. - -The population of Ecija is estimated at 30,000 souls; a number that -appears totally disproportioned to the size of the city; particularly, -as it contains but a few tanneries, and trifling manufactories of shoes, -saddlery, &c. But, from the extreme fertility of the soil in its -neighbourhood--considered the most productive and best cultivated in -Andalusia--it is very possible this amount may not be exaggerated; for -in Spain the agriculturalists do not scatter themselves about in small -villages and hamlets over its surface, as in other countries, but -assemble together in large towns; so that those places which are -situated in fertile districts are as densely populated as our -manufacturing towns. - -The distance that a Spanish peasant sometimes travels daily, to and from -his work, is truly surprising, in a people that, generally speaking, -like to save themselves trouble. Whilst getting in the harvest, however, -they erect _ranchas_, or rush huts, to shelter them from the midday sun -and night dews, and dwell in these temporary habitations until their -work is completed. - -The crops of corn in the neighbourhood of Ecija are remarkably fine, -yielding forty to one, and though not so tall, perhaps, as those of the -_vega_ of Granada, the grains are larger and better ripened. - -I must not omit to say a good word for the _Posada_,--the -Post-house,--which I do the more willingly from being so seldom called -upon to speak in terms of commendation of Spanish "houses of -entertainment." Suffice it to observe, that, provided the traveller be -very hungry, and moderately fatigued, he may reckon on getting a supper -that he will be able to eat, and a bed whereon--albeit hard--he may -obtain some hours' unmolested repose. - -The remainder of the post road to Seville is so perfectly uninteresting, -that, reserving the Andalusian capital for a future tour, I shall take a -more direct route back to Gibraltar, through the _Serranía_ de Ronda; -merely offering a few remarks on the town of Carmona, which is situated -about two thirds of the way between Ecija and Seville, and referring my -readers to the Itinerary in the Appendix for any further details as to -the distances from place to place along the road. - -Carmona is one of the few Roman towns of Boetica of whose identity -there is scarcely a doubt; its name having undergone little or no -change. It is mentioned by most of the ancient writers, and called by -them, indifferently, Carmo and Carmona, and by Julius Cæsar was esteemed -one of the strongest posts in the whole country. Its position, -considered relatively with the adjacent ground, is, indeed, most -commanding; being on the edge of a vast plateau of very elevated land, -which, stretching many miles to the south, falls abruptly along the -course of the river Corbones. - -The Roman name for this river is, I think, doubtful. Florez, and most -antiquaries, suppose it to be the _Silicensis_. Some, and, as it appears -to me, with better reason, give that name to the Badajocillo. Be that as -it may, the Corbones is but an inconsiderable stream, and is now crossed -by a stone bridge of three arches. - -The ascent to Carmona is very steep and tedious. The city is entered -through a triumphal Roman arch, which was repaired and spoilt by order -of Charles III. Another Roman gateway stands at the southern extremity -of the town, by which the road to Seville leaves it; and various parts -of the walls which yet encompass the place are the work of the same -people. The castle, however, is a relique of the Moors, and in a very -ruinous condition. - -This stronghold was wrested from the Moors by San Fernando, after a six -months' investment. It was a favourite place of residence of Peter, -surnamed the Cruel, who, looking upon it as impregnable, left his -children there in fancied security when he took the field for the last -time against his brother. Soon after Peter's death, however, it fell -into the hands of his rival, who, according to some accounts, caused the -children (his nephews) to be put to death in cold blood. - -The streets of Carmona are wide, clean, and well-paved; and the alameda -is enchanting, commanding a superb view of the ruined fortress, and over -the rich vales of the Corbones, and more distant Guadalquivír, and -embracing, at the same time, the whole chain of the Ronda mountains to -the eastward. - -The population of the place is about 10,000 souls. The inn is execrable. - -The post road to Cadiz is directed from Carmona on Alcalà de Guadiara, -where a branch to Seville strikes off, nearly at a right angle, to the -east, thereby making a considerable détour. But in summer, carriages -even may proceed to Seville by a cross road, which not only lessens the -dust, but reduces the distance from six _long_ to the same number of -_short_ leagues; or, in other words, effects a saving of about three -miles. - -I now return to Ecija, and take the road from that city to Osuna; which -is tolerably good, and practicable for carriages during the greater part -of the year. The distance is five (very long) leagues. The country -presents a slightly undulated surface, and, excepting round the edges of -some basins wherein extensive lakes have been formed, is altogether -under the plough. At a little distance from the road, on the left hand, -a stream, called _El Salado_, flows towards the Genil. It does not -communicate with these lakes, nor has the name it bears been given from -its being impregnated with salt. - -During our ride, we observed a number of men advancing in skirmishing -order across the country, and thrashing the ground most savagely with -long flails. Curious to know what could be the motive for this -Xerxes-like treatment of the earth, we turned out of the road to inspect -their operations, and found they were driving a swarm of locusts into a -wide piece of linen spread on the ground at some distance before them, -wherein they were made prisoners. These animals are about three times -the size of an English grasshopper. They migrate from Africa, and their -spring visits are very destructive; for in a single night they will -entirely eat up a field of young corn. - -The _Caza de Langostas_[4] is a very profitable business to the -peasantry; as, besides a reward obtained from the proprietor of the soil -in consideration for service done, they sell the produce of their -_chasse_ for manure at so much a sack. - -Osuna is generally admitted to be the Urso,[5] Ursao, and Ursaon, of the -Roman historians; though it agrees in no one particular with the -description given of that place by Hirtius; for it is not by any means -"strong by nature;" it is in the vicinity of extensive -forests--rendering it perfectly absurd to suppose that Cæsar's troops -"had to bring wood thither all the way from Munda;"--and, so far from -"there being no rivulet within eight miles of the place,"[6] a fine -stream meanders under its very walls. - -The town is situated at the foot of a hill that screens it effectually -to the eastward, and the summit of which is occupied by an old castle of -considerable strength and size, but now fast crumbling to decay. The -streets are wide and well paved, the houses particularly good;--indeed, -some of the palaces of the provincial nobility (with whom it was -formerly a favourite place of residence) are strikingly handsome; in -particular, that of the Duke who takes his title from the city; and -notwithstanding that the streets are overgrown with grass, and the -houses covered with mildew, I am, nevertheless, disposed to call Osuna -the best built and handsomest city in Andalusia, it contains a -university, fourteen convents, for both sexes, and a population of -16,000 souls; but has little or no trade--in fact, though on the -crossing of two high roads, (viz., from Gibraltar to Madrid, and from -Granada to Seville) it has all the dullness of a secluded country -village. - -The vicinity is very fruitful in olives and corn; the soil is a whitish -clay. To the S.E. the country is tolerably level all the way to -Antequera, and to the west is nearly flat to Seville; but at about a -mile southward from the city, shoot up the entangled roots of the -mountains of Ronda, presenting on that side a belt of very intricate -country. There are two roads to that place, the distance by the better, -which, I think, is also rather the shorter, of the two, is nine leagues. -It leaves Osuna by the gate of Granada, and, crossing the -before-mentioned stream (which is one of the sources of the Corbones), -advances some distance along a wide olive-planted valley. It then quits -the great road to Granada (which continues along the valley), and -ascends a steep and very long hill, from the crest of which, distant -about three miles from Osuna, there is a splendid view of the city, and -of the spacious plains extending to and bordering the distant -Guadalquivír, studded with the towns of Marchena, Fuentes, Palmar, and -Carmona. - -The road continues along the summit of the elevated range of hills which -it has now attained, for about five miles, winding amongst some -singularly mammillated hummocks, that have very much the appearance of -the tumuli left in an exhausted mining country. A succession of strongly -marked and peculiarly rugged ravines present themselves along the -eastern side of the ridge, and the ground falls also very abruptly in -the opposite direction; but to the south, whither the road is directed, -the descent is much more gradual; and from the foot of the hill, which -is bathed by a rivulet wending its way to the Genil, the country is -tolerably level, and the road extremely good the remaining distance to -Saucejo. - -In former days, this route was practicable for carriages throughout, and -with very little labour it might again be made so; but, though the high -road from the capital to Algeciras and Gibraltar, it is but little -travelled. The other road from Osuna to Ronda joins in here on the -right. - -The village of Saucejo is a post station three leagues from Osuna, and -six from Ronda. It contains some eight hundred inhabitants, great -abundance of stabling, but not one decent house. The posada is a -peculiarly unpromising establishment, and the landlady's face such as to -shut out all hope of any sound wine being found within its influence. We -had left Osuna so late in the day, however, that it would have been vain -to attempt reaching Ronda ere nightfall. - -We, therefore, reluctantly took possession of the _sala_, and, -presenting our sour-faced hostess with a rabbit and some partridges that -we had purchased on the road, asked if she could furnish the other -requisites for the concorporation of an _olla_, and whether it would be -possible to let us have our meal ere midnight; to both of which -questions, with sundry consequential nods of the head, she replied -severally, _en casa llena, presto se guisa la cena_.[7] Notwithstanding -this assurance, our supper was long in making its appearance, for the -operations of an _olla_ cannot be hurried. But, when it did come, it -bespoke our landlady to be a _cordon bleu_ of the first class; the -_pimento_[8] had been administered with judgment; the _berza_[9] had -duly extracted the flavour from the rabbit and partridges; the -_chorizo_[10] had imparted but the desirable smack of garlic to the -other ingredients; and the nutty savour of the _tocino_[11] was beyond -all praise. Nor was her wine such as we had expected; though somewhat -too light to have much influence on the digestion of the unctuous mess -placed before us. - -From Saucejo the road again branches into two, one route proceeding by -way of Almargen, the other by the Venta del Granadal. Both are -_reckoned_ six leagues; but the last mentioned is better than the other, -as well as shorter by several miles. It crosses a considerable stream -(here called the Algamitas, but which is, in fact, the main source of -the Corbones) by a ford, about three miles from Saucejo. The descent to -the stream is very bad, and, after keeping along its bank for another -mile, the road mounts to some elevated table land, from which the view -to the westward is obstructed by the rocky peaks of two detached -mountains about a mile off. These may be considered the outposts of the -Serranía in that direction; and, on the rough side of the more -considerable of the two, is the _Hermita de Caños Santos_. - -The country becomes very wild as the road advances, and rugged tors, -partially covered with wood, rise on all sides. At nine miles from -Saucejo is the lone venta of Grañadal, and beyond it the mountains rise -to a yet greater height, but their slopes are less abrupt, and are -covered with forests of oak and cork. At twelve miles a track branches -off to the right, proceeding to the little town of Alcalà del Valle, -which, though distant only about half a mile, is not visible from the -road. Soon after, a wide valley opens to the view, at the bottom of -which, encased by steep rocky banks, flows the river _Guadalete_. This -river is by some considered the _Lethe_ of the ancients; but, if it be -so, our long-cherished notions of the beauty of the Elysian fields have -been wofully faulty, for the country is rather tame, and the soil stony -and ungrateful. Thus far, however, it answers the description of Virgil, -that you - - "Breathe in ample fields the soft Elysian air." - -The town of Setenil is perched on a crag overhanging the left bank of -the Guadalete, and distant about three miles from the road, which keeps -under the broad summit of the hills forming the northern boundary of -Elysium. The sides of these are partially cultivated, and, from time to -time, a low cottage is met with as the road proceeds; but it soon enters -a cork-forest, and, threading its dark mazes for about four miles, -gradually gains the crest of the chain of hills overlooking the vale of -Ronda to the north, whence a splendid view is obtained of the fertile -basin, its rock-built fortress, and jagged sierras. - -The descent on the southern side of the hills is rather rapid, and, -after proceeding downwards about a mile, the road is joined on the left -by the other route from Saucejo. From hence to Ronda is two short -leagues. The road still continues descending for another mile; and, in -the course of the two following, it crosses three deep ravines, watered -by copious streams, and planted with all sorts of fruit-trees. - -In the bottom of one of these dells is ensconced the village of Arriate. -The last is a deep and very singular rent that extends, east and west, -quite across the basin of Ronda. Immediately after crossing this -fissure, the road begins to ascend the range of hills whereon Ronda is -situated, and, after winding for three miles amongst vineyards, olive -grounds, and corn-fields, enters the city on its north side. - -We were seven hours performing the journey, although the distance is but -six _leguas regulares_. - -I have already given so full a description of Ronda, that I will pass on -without further remark. - -To vary the scenery, and moved by curiosity to visit some of the scenes -of our acquaintance Blas's exploits, we determined to take a somewhat -circuitous route homewards, by way of Grazalema and Ubrique. - -The distance to the first named town is three long leagues. The road -descends gradually to the south-western extremity of the basin of Ronda, -where the Guadiaro, forming its junction with the Rio Verde, enters a -rocky defile, and is lost sight of amidst the roots of the rugged -sierras that spread themselves in all directions towards the -Mediterranean. - -Crossing the last named stream just before its confluence with the -Guadiaro, the road at once begins ascending towards a deeply marked gap, -that breaks the ridge of the mountains which rise along the right bank -of the stream. - -The pass is about four miles from Ronda, and commands a splendid view of -the fruitful valley, which lies, like an outspread _cornucopia_, at its -foot. On the other side, too, the scenery is not less fine, though of a -totally different nature. There a singular double-peaked crag rises up -boldly and darkly on the left hand, casting its shadow on the bright -foliage of an oak forest, which, deep sunk below the rest of the -country, spreads its verdant covering as far to the eastward as where -the huge Sierra Endrinal raises its cloud-enveloped head above all the -other mountains of the range. High seated on the side of this, a white -speck is seen which, in the course of time, proves to be the town of -Grazalema, whither we are bending our steps. - -Proceeding onwards, from the pass about a mile, the little village of -Montejaque shows itself, peeping from between the two peaks of the -mountain on the left, and, seemingly, quite inaccessible, even to a -goat. - -It is inhabited by a horde of half-tamed Saracens, who pride themselves -greatly on having foiled all the attempts of the French to make -themselves masters of the place;[12] and, as this elevated little -village is but three quarters of a mile from the high road, (which is -the principal communication between Malaga and Cadiz) it must have -possessed the means of annoying the enemy considerably. - -For the next two miles our way lay along the spine of a somewhat -elevated ridge; whence we looked down upon the before-mentioned wooded -country on one side, and on the other into a well cultivated valley. -From the bed of this, but at several leagues' distance, the rock-built -town of Zahara rears its embattled head. - -This little fortress is very noted in Moorish history; its capture by -Muley Aben Hassan, during a period of truce, having provoked the renewal -of the war which led to the loss of the crown, not only to himself -first, but to his race afterwards. - -One of the sources of the Guadalete flows in this valley, bathing the -walls of Zahara, which stands on the site of the Roman town of -Lastigi.[13] The present name, I should imagine, (considering the -locality) is derived rather from the Arabic word _Zaharat_ (mountain -top) than _Z[=a]hara_, (flowery) as supposed by Mr. Carter; for the -streets are cut out of the live rock on which the place is built. - -The road to Grazalema, now mounting another step, enters a dark forest, -and, continuing for five miles along the top of a narrow ridge, descends -into a vine-clad valley, that spreads out at the foot of the rough -sierra on the side of which Grazalema is seated. - -The ascent to the town is very bad, and is rendered worse than it -otherwise would be by being paved--for a paved road in Spain is sure to -be neglected. We scrambled up with much difficulty, and alighting at the -posada, remained for an hour or two, to procure some breakfast, and -examine the place. - -It is a singularly built town, the streets being heaped one above -another, like steps; and in several instances they are even worked out -of the native rock. There is, nevertheless, a fine open market-place, -which we found well supplied with fruit, vegetables, and game, including -venison and wild boar; and the town possesses several manufactories of -coarse cloths and serges. - -From its situation, immediately over the mouth of a deep ravine, by -which alone access can be obtained to one of the principal passes in the -Serranía, Grazalema occupies a very important military position, and may -be considered almost inassailable; for, whilst at its back a perfectly -impracticable mountain covers it from attack, it is protected to the -north and east by the precipitous ravine it overlooks; up the side of -which, even the narrow road from Ronda has not been practised without -much labour. The only side, therefore, on which it has to apprehend -danger, is that fronting the pass above it--i.e. to the westward. But it -has the means of offering an obstinate resistance, even in that -direction. - -Commanding, as it thus does, so important a passage over the mountains, -there can be but little doubt that Grazalema stands upon, or near, the -site of some Roman fortress; and, for reasons which I shall hereafter -mention, I feel inclined to place here the town of Ilipa.[14] - -The inhabitants amount to about 6,000, and are a savage, -ruffianly-looking race. During the "War of Independence," assisted by -their brethren of the neighbouring mountain fastnesses, they frequently -rose against their invaders, driving them out of the place; and on one -occasion they repulsed a French column of several thousand men, which -was sent to dispossess them of their stronghold. - -On leaving Grazalema, the road enters the narrow, rock-bound ravine -leading up to the pass, down which a noisy torrent rushes, leaping from -precipice to precipice, and lashing the base of the crag-built town, -whence we had just issued. A newly-built bridge, whose high-crowned arch -places it beyond the anger of the foaming stream, gives a passage to the -road to Zahara, which winds along the eastern face of the Sierra del -Pinar. Our route, however, continues ascending yet a mile and a half -along the right bank of the torrent, ere it reaches the long descried -gap in the mountain chain, the name of which is _El Puerto Bozal_. - -This is considered one of the most elevated passes in the whole Serranía -de Ronda, and must be at least 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. -The mountains on either side rise to a far greater elevation; that on -the right, distinguished by the name of _El Pico de San Cristoval_, is -said (as has already been stated) to have been the first land made by -Columbus on his return from the discovery of the "New World." - -The views from this pass are truly grand. At our backs lay the -beautifully wooded country we had travelled over in the morning--Ronda -and its vale, and the distant sierras of El Burgo and Casarabonela. -Before us, a wild mountain country extended for several miles; and -beyond, spreading as far as the eye could reach, were the vast plains of -Arcos, through which the gladdening Guadalete, winding its way past -Xeres, turns to seek the bay of Cadiz, whose glassy surface the white -walls of its proud mistress, and the deep blue ocean, could be seen -distinctly on the left, though at a distance of more than fifty miles. - -From the Puerto Bozal, a _trocha_, directed straight upon Ubrique, -strikes off to the left; but the saving in point of distance which this -road offers, is counterbalanced by its extreme ruggedness. We, -therefore, took the more circuitous route to that place by El Broque, -which, for the first five miles, is itself sufficiently bad to satisfy -most people. The views along it, looking to the south, are very fine; -but the lofty barren range of San Cristoval, on the side of which it is -conducted, shuts out the prospect in the opposite direction. - -At length, crossing over a narrow tongue that protrudes from the side of -the rugged mountain, we entered a dark, wooded ravine, and began to -descend very rapidly, and, to our astonishment, by a very good road. -After proceeding in this way about a mile, the valley gradually -expanding, we emerged from the wood, and found ourselves in a -sequestered glen of surpassing loveliness. A neat white chapel, with a -picturesque belfry, stood on a sloping green bank on our right hand, -and, scattered in all directions about it, were the trim, vine-clad -cottages of its frequenters, each screened partially from the sun in a -grove of almond, cherry, and orange trees. A crystal stream gurgled -through the fruitful dell, which was bounded at some little distance by -high wooded hills and rocky cliffs. - -This secluded retreat is called _La Huerta[15] de Benamajáma_,--the -peculiarly guttural name proving it to have been a little earthly -paradise of the Moors. - -The road, which had thus far been nearly west, here, continuing along -the course of the little river Posadas, turns to the south; and, keeping -under a range of wooded hills on the left hand, in about an hour reaches -El Broque. This portion of the road is very good, and from it, looking -over the great plain bordering the Guadalete, may be seen the lofty -tower of _Pajarete_, perched on a conical mound, at about a league's -distance. The justly celebrated sweet wine called by this name was -originally produced from the vineyards in its vicinity, but it is now -made principally at Xeres. - -El Broque is a small clean town, abounding in wood and water, and -containing from 1500 to 2000 inhabitants. To the east it is overshadowed -by a range of lofty, wooded hills, which may be considered the last -buttresses of the Serranía; for the road to Cadiz, which here branches -off to the right, crossing the Posadas, traverses an uninterrupted plain -all the way to Arcos. - -The route to Ubrique, on the other hand, again strikes into the -mountains; though, for yet two miles further, it follows the course of -the little river and its impending sierra. Arrived, however, at the -mouth of a ravine, which brings down another mountain-torrent to the -plain, it turns to the north, keeping along the margin of the stream, -until the bridge of Tavira offers the means of passage; when, crossing -to the opposite bank, it once more enters the intricate belt of -mountains. - -The name of the stream which is here crossed is the Majaceite; and on -its right bank, close to the bridge, is a solitary venta. The scenery is -extremely beautiful. The mountains of Grazalema, which we had traversed -in the morning, form the background; the ruined tower of Alamada, -perched on an isolated knoll, stands boldly forward in middle distance; -and close at hand are the rough, coppiced banks and crystal current of -the winding Majaceite. - -From hence to Ubrique the country is very wild and rugged. The town is -first seen (when about a league off) from the summit of a round-topped -hill, six miles from El Broque. It is nestled in the bottom of a deep -valley, hemmed in by singularly rugged mountains. The first part of the -descent is gradual, but a steep neck of land must be crossed ere -reaching the town; and, as if to render the approach as difficult as -possible, the road over this mound has been paved. - -Amongst the rude masses of sierra that encompass Ubrique, numerous -rivulets pierce their way to the lowly valley, where, collected in two -streams, they are conducted to the town, and, fertilizing the ground in -its neighbourhood, cause it to be encircled by a belt of most luxuriant -vegetation. The mountains in the vicinity abound also in lead-mines, but -they are no longer worked. "Where are we to find money? Where are we to -look for security?" were the answers given to _my_ question, "Why not?" - -The streets of Ubrique are wide, clean, and well paved; the houses lofty -and good; but the inn, alas! affords the wearied traveller little more -than bare walls and a wooden floor. The population of the place may be -estimated at 8000 souls. It contains some tanneries, water-mills, and -manufactories of hats and coarse cloths. It does not strike me as being -a likely site for a Roman city. - -We were on horseback by daybreak, having before us a long ride, and, for -the first five leagues (to Ximena), a very difficult country to -traverse. For about a mile the road is paved, and confined to the vale -in which Ubrique stands by a precipitous mountain. But, the westernmost -point of this ridge turned, the route to Ximena (leaving a road to -Alcalà de los Gazules on the right) takes a more southerly direction -than heretofore, and, entering a hilly country, soon dwindles into a -mere mule-track. Ere proceeding far in this direction, another road -branches off to Cortes, winding up towards some cragged eminences that -serrate the mountain-chain on the left. The path to Ximena, however, -continues yet two miles further across the comparatively undulated -country below, which thus far is under cultivation; but, on gaining the -summit of a hill, distant about four miles from Ubrique, a complete -change takes place in the face of the country; the view opening upon a -wide expanse of forest, furrowed by numerous deep ravines, and studded -with rugged tors. - -The road through this overshadowed labyrinth is continually mounting and -descending the slippery banks of the countless torrents that intersect -it, twisting and winding in every direction; and, on gaining the heart -of the forest, the path is crossed and cut up by such numbers of -timber-tracks, and is screened from the sun's cheering rays by so -impervious a covering, that the difficulty of choosing a path amongst -the many which presented themselves was yet further increased by that of -determining the point of the compass towards which they were -respectively directed. - -The guide we had brought with us, though pretending to be thoroughly -acquainted with every pathway in the forest, was evidently as much at a -_nonplus_ as we ourselves were; and his muttered _malditos_ and -_carajos_, like the rolling of distant thunder, announced the coming of -a storm. At length it burst forth: the track he had selected, after -various windings, led only to the stump of a venerable oak. Never was -mortal in a more towering passion; he snatched his hat from his head, -threw it on the ground, and stamped upon it, swearing by, or at--for we -could hardly distinguish which--all the saints in the calendar. After -enjoying this scene for some time, we spread ourselves in different -directions in search of the beaten track; and, at last, a swineherd, -attracted by our calls to each other, came to our deliverance; and our -guide, after bestowing sundry _malditos_ upon the wood, the torrents, -the timber-tracks, and those who made them, resumed his wonted state of -composure, assuring us, that there was some accursed hobgoblin in this -_hi-de-puta_ forest, who took delight in leading good Catholics astray; -that during the war an entire regiment, misled by some such -_malhechor_,[16] had been obliged to bivouac there for the night, to the -great detriment of his very Catholic Majesty's service. - -Soon after this little adventure we reached a solitary house, called the -_Venta de Montera_, which is something more than half way between -Ubrique and Ximena; _i.e._ eleven miles from the former, and nine from -the latter. A little way beyond this the road reaches an elevated chain -of hills, that separates the rivers Sogarganta and Guadiaro; the summit -of which being rather a succession of peaks than a continuous ridge, -occasions the track to be conducted sometimes along the edge of one -valley, sometimes of the other. The mountain falls very ruggedly to the -first-named river, but in one magnificent sweep to the Guadiaro. - -The views on both sides are extremely fine; that on the left hand -embraces Gibraltar's cloud-wrapped peaks, the mirror-like Mediterranean, -Spain's prison-fortress of Ceuta, and the blue mountains of Mauritanía; -the other looks over the silvery current of the Sogarganta, winding -amidst the roots of a peculiarly wild and wooded country, and towards -the rock-built little fortress of Castellar. - -The road continues winding along this elevated heather-clad ridge for -four miles, and then descends by rapid zig-zags towards Ximena. - -The town lies crouching under the shelter of a rocky ledge, that, -detached from the rest of the sierra, and crowned with the ruined towers -of an ancient castle, forms a bold and very picturesque feature in the -view, looking southward. The town is nearly a mile in length, and -consists principally of two long narrow streets, one extending from -north to south quite through it, the other leading up to the castle. The -rest of the _callejones_[17] are disposed in steps up the steep side of -the impending hill, and can be reached only on foot. - -The old castle--in great part Roman, but the superstructure Moorish--is -accessible only on the side of the town (east), and in former days must -have been almost impregnable. The narrow-ridged ledge whereon it stands -has been levelled, as far as was practicable, to give capacity to this -citadel, which is 400 yards in length, and varies in breadth from 50 to -80. It rises gently, so as to form two hummocks at its extremities; and -the narrowest part of the inclosure being towards the centre, it has -very much the form of a calabash. - -A strongly built circular tower, mounting artillery, and enclosed by an -irregular loop-holed work of some strength, occupies the southern peak -of the ridge; and a fort of more modern structure, but feeble profile, -covers that in which it terminates to the north. An irregularly indented -wall, or in some places scarped rock, connects these two retrenched -works along the eastern side of the ridge; but, in the opposite -direction, the cliff falls precipitously to the river Sogarganta; -rendering any artificial defences, beyond a slight parapet wall, quite -superfluous. - -Numerous vaulted tanks and magazines afforded security to the ammunition -and provisions of the isolated little citadel; but they are now in a -wretched state, as well as the outworks generally; for the fortress was -partially blown up by Ballasteros, (A.D. 1811) upon his abandoning it, -on the approach of the French, to seek a surer protection under the guns -of Gibraltar. - -In exploring the ruined tanks of this old Moorish fortress, chance -directed our footsteps to an unfrequented spot where some smugglers were -in treaty with a revenue _guarda_, touching the amount of bribe to be -given for his connivance at the entry of sundry mule loads of contraband -goods into the town on the following night. - -We did not pry so curiously into the proceedings of the contracting -parties, as to ascertain the precise sum demanded by this faithful -servant of the crown for the purchase of his acquiescence to the -proposed arrangement, but, from the elevated shoulders, outstretched -arms, and down-stretched mouth, of one of the negociators, it was -evident that the demand was considered unconscionable; and the roguish -countenance of the custom-house shark as clearly expressed in reply, -"But do you count for nothing the sacrifice of principle I make?" - -From the ruined ramparts of Fort Ballasteros (the name by which the -northern retrenched work of the fortress is distinguished) the view -looking south is remarkably fine. The keep of the ancient castle, -enclosed by its comparatively modern outworks, and occupying the extreme -point of the narrow rocky ledge whereon we were perched, stands boldly -out from the adjacent mountains; whilst, deep sunk below, the tortuous -Sogarganta may be traced for miles, wending its way towards the -Almoraima forest. Above this rise the two remarkable headlands of -Gibraltar and Ceuta; the glassy waterline between them marking the -separation of Europe and Africa. - -That Ximena was once a place of importance there can be no doubt, since -it gave the title of King to Abou Melic, son of the Emperor of Fez; and -that it was a Roman station (though the name is lost,) is likewise -sufficiently proved, as well by the walls of the castle, as by various -inscriptions which have been discovered in the vicinity. At the present -day, it is a poor and inconsiderable town, whose inhabitants, amounting -to about 8000, are chiefly employed in smuggling and agriculture. - -On issuing from the town, the road to Gibraltar crosses the Sogarganta, -having on its left bank, and directly under the precipitous southern -cliff of the castle rock, the ruins of an immense building, erected some -sixty years back, for the purpose of casting shot for the siege of -Gibraltar! - -The distance from Ximena to the English fortress is 25 miles. The road -was, in times past, practicable for carriages throughout; and even now -is tolerably good, though the bridges are not in a state to drive over. -It is conducted along the right bank of the Sogarganta; at six miles, is -joined by a road that winds down from the little town of Castellar on -the right; and, at eight, enters the Almoraima forest by the "Lion's -Mouth," of which mention has already been made. The river, repelled by -the steep brakes of the forest, winds away to the eastward to seek the -Guadiaro and Genil. - -Here I will take a temporary leave of my readers, to seek a night's -lodging at a cottage in the neighbourhood, which, being frequented by -some friends and myself in the shooting season, we knew could furnish us -with clean beds and a _gazpacho_. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - DEPARTURE FOR CADIZ--ROAD ROUND THE BAY OF - GIBRALTAR--ALGECIRAS--SANDY BAY--GUALMESI--TARIFA--ITS - FOUNDATION--ERROR OF MARIANA IN SUPPOSING IT TO BE CARTEIA--BATTLE - OF EL SALADO--MISTAKE OF LA MARTINIERE CONCERNING IT--ITINERARY OF - ANTONINUS FROM CARTEIA TO GADES VERIFIED--CONTINUATION OF - JOURNEY--VENTAS OF TAVILLA AND RETIN--VEJER--CONIL--SPANISH METHOD - OF EXTRACTING GOOD FROM EVIL--TUNNY FISHERY--BARROSA--FIELD OF - BATTLE--CHICLANA--ROAD TO CADIZ--PUENTE ZUAZO--SAN FERNANDO--TEMPLE - OF HERCULES--CASTLE OF SANTI PETRI--ITS IMPORTANCE TO CADIZ. - - -Hoping that the taste of my readers, like my own, leads them to prefer -the motion of a horse to that of a ship, the chance of being robbed to -that of being sea-sick, and the savoury smell of an _olla_ to the greasy -odour of a steam engine, I purpose in my next excursion to conduct them -to Cadiz by the rude pathway practised along the rocky shore of the -Straits of Gibraltar, and thence, "_inter æstuaria Bætis_," to Seville, -instead of proceeding to those places by the more rapid and now -generally adopted means of fire and water. From the last named "fair -city" we will return homewards by another passage through the mountains -of Ronda. - -To authorise _me_--a mere scribbler of notes and journals--to assume the -plural _we_, that gives a Delphic importance to one's opinions (but -under whose shelter I gladly seek to avoid the charge of egotism), I -must state that a friend bore me company on this occasion; our two -servants, with well stuffed saddle-bags and _alforjas_, "bringing up the -rear." - -Proceeding along the margin of the bay of Gibraltar, leaving -successively behind us the ruins of Fort St. Philip, which a few years -since gave security to the right flank of the lines drawn across the -Isthmus in front of the British fortress; the crumbling tower of -_Cartagena_, or _Recadillo_, which, during the seven centuries of Moslem -sway, served as an _atalaya_, or beacon, to convey intelligence along -the coast between Algeciras and Malaga; and, lastly, the scattered -fragments of the yet more ancient city of Carteia, we arrive at the -river Guadaranque. - -The stream is so deep as to render a ferry-boat necessary. That in use -is of a most uncouth kind, and so low waisted that "Almanzor," who was -ever prone to gad amongst the Spanish lady Rosinantes, could not be -deterred from showing his gallantry to some that were collected on the -opposite side of the river, by leaping "clean out" of the boat before it -was half way over. Fortunately, we had passed the deepest part of the -stream, so that I escaped with a foot-bath only. - -The road keeps close to the shore for about a mile and a half, when it -reaches the river Palmones, which is crossed by a similarly -ill-contrived ferry. From hence to Algeciras is three miles, the first -along the sea-beach, the remainder by a carriage-road, conducted some -little distance inland to avoid the various rugged promontories which -now begin to indent the coast, and to dash back in angry foam the -hitherto gently received caresses of the flowing tide. - -The total distance from Gibraltar to Algeciras, following the sea-shore, -is nine English miles; but straight across the bay it is barely five. - -Algeciras, supposed to be the Tingentera of the ancients, and by some -the Julia Traducta of the Romans, received its present name from the -Moors--_Al chazira_, the island. In the days of the Moslem domination, -it became a place of great strength and importance; and when the power -of the Moors of Spain began to wane, was one of the towns ceded to the -Emperor of Fez, to form a kingdom for his son, Abou Melic, in the hope -of presenting a barrier that would check the alarming progress of the -Christian arms. From that time it became a constant object of -contention, and endured many sieges. The most memorable was in 1342-4, -during which cannon were first brought into use by its defenders. It, -nevertheless, fell to the irresistible Alfonso XI., after a siege of -twenty months. - -At that period, the town stood on the right bank of the little river -Miel (instead of on the left, as at present), where traces of its walls -are yet to be seen; but its fortifications having shortly afterwards -been razed to the ground by the Moors, the place fell to decay, and the -present town was built so late as in 1760. It is unprotected by walls, -but is sheltered from attack on the sea-side by a rocky little island, -distant 800 yards from the shore. This island is crowned with batteries -of heavy ordnance, and has, on more occasions than one, been found an -"ugly customer" to deal with. The anchorage is to the north of the -island, and directly in front of the town. - -The streets of Algeciras are wide and regularly built, remarkably well -paved, and lined with good houses; but it is a sun-burnt place, without -a tree to shelter, or a drain to purify it. Being the port of -communication between Spain and her _presidario_, Ceuta, as well as the -military seat of government of the _Campo de Gibraltar_, it is a place -of some bustle, and carries on a thriving trade, by means of _felucas_ -and other small craft, with the British fortress. The population may be -reckoned at 8,000 souls, exclusive of a garrison of from twelve to -fifteen hundred men. - -The Spaniards call the rock of Gibraltar _el cuerpo muerto_,[18] from -its resemblance to a corpse; and, viewed from Algeciras, it certainly -does look something like a human figure laid upon its back, the -northernmost pinnacle forming the head, the swelling ridge between that -and the signal tower, the chest and belly, and the point occupied by -O'Hara's tower the bend of the knees. - -The direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz crosses the most elevated pass -in the wooded mountains that rise at the back of the town, and, from its -excessive asperity, is called "_The Trocha_," the word itself signifying -a _bad_ mountain road. The distance by this route is sixty-two miles; by -Tarifa it is about a league more, and this latter road is not much -better than the other, though over a far lower tract of country. - -On quitting the town, the road, having crossed the river Miel, and -passed over the site of "Old Algeciras," situated on its right bank, -edges away from the coast, and, in about a mile, reaches a hill, whence -an old tower is seen standing on a rocky promontory; which, jutting some -considerable distance into the sea, forms the northern boundary of a -deep and well sheltered bay. The Spanish name for this bight is _La -Ensenada de Getares_; but by us, on account of the high beach of white -sand that edges it, it is called "Sandy bay." It strikes me this must be -the _Portus albus_ of Antoninus's Itinerary, since its distance from -Carteia corresponds exactly with that therein specified, and renders the -rest of the route to Gades _intelligible_, which, otherwise, it -certainly is not. But more of this hereafter. - -Within two miles of Algeciras the road crosses two mountain torrents, -the latter of which, called _El Rio Picaro_[19] (I presume from its -occasional _treacherous_ rise), discharges itself into the bay of -Getares. Thenceforth, the track becomes more rugged, and ascends towards -a pass, (_El puerto del Cabrito_) which connects the _Sierra Santa Ana_ -on the right with a range of hills that, rising to the south, and -closing the view in that direction, shoots its gnarled roots into the -Straits of Gibraltar. - -The views from the pass are very fine--that to the eastward, looking -over the lake-like Mediterranean and towards the snowy sierras of -Granada; the other, down upon the rough features of the Spanish shore, -and towards the yet more rugged mountains of Africa; the still distant -Atlantic stretching away to the left. The former view is shut out -immediately on crossing the ridge: but the other, undergoing pleasing -varieties as one proceeds, continues very fine all the way to Tarifa. - -The road is now very bad, being conducted across the numerous rough -ramifications of the mountains on the right hand, midway between their -summits and the sea. At about seven miles from Algeciras it reaches the -secluded valley of Gualmesi, or Guadalmesi, celebrated for the -crystaline clearness of its springs, and the high flavour of its -oranges; and, crossing the stream, whence the romantic dell takes its -name, directs itself towards the sea-shore, continuing along it the rest -of the way to Tarifa; which place is distant twelve miles from -Algeciras. - -The stratification of the rocks along this coast is very remarkable: the -flat shelving ledges that border it running so regularly in parallel -lines, nearly east and west, as to have all the appearance of artificial -moles for sheltering vessels. It is on the contrary, however, an -extremely dangerous shore to approach. - -The old Moorish battlements of Tarifa abut against the rocky cliff that -bounds the coast; stretching thence to the westward, along, but about 50 -yards from, the sea. It is not necessary, therefore, to enter the -fortress; indeed, one makes a considerable détour in doing so; but -curiosity will naturally lead all Englishmen--who have the -opportunity--to visit the walls so gallantly defended by a handful of -their countrymen during the late war; and those who cannot do so may not -object to read a somewhat minute description of them. - -The town closes the mouth of a valley, bound by two long but slightly -marked moles, protruded from a mountain range some miles distant to the -north; the easternmost of which terminates abruptly along the sea-shore. -The walls extend partly up both these hills; but not far enough to save -the town from being looked into, and completely commanded, within a very -short distance. Their general lines form a quadrangular figure, about -600 yards square; but a kind of horn work projects from the N.E. angle, -furnishing the only good flanking fire that the fortress can boast of -along its north front. Every where else the walls, which are only four -feet and a half thick, are flanked by square towers, themselves hardly -solid enough to bear the _weight_ of artillery, much less its blows. - -At the S.W. angle, but within the enceinte of the fortress, and looking -seawards, there is a small castle, or citadel, the _alcazar_ of its -Moorish governors; and immediately under its machicoulated battlements -is one of the three gateways of the town. The two others are towards the -centre of its western and northern fronts. - -In the attack of 1811, the French made their approaches against the -north front of the town, and effected a breach towards its centre, in -the very lowest part of the bed of the valley; thus most completely -"taking the bull by the horns;" (and Tarifa bulls are not to be trifled -with--as every Spanish _picador_ knows,) since the approach to it was -swept by the fire of the projecting _horn_-work I have before mentioned. - -When the breach was repaired, a marble tablet was inserted in the wall, -bearing a modest inscription in Latin, which states that "this part of -the wall, destroyed by the besieging French, was re-built by the British -defenders in November, 1813." - -When the French again attacked the fortress, in 1823, profiting by past -experience, they established their breaching batteries in a large -convent, distant about 200 yards from the walls on the west front of the -town; and, favouring their assault by a feigned attack on the gate in -its south wall, they carried the place with scarcely any loss. - -The streets of Tarifa are narrow, dark, and crooked; and, excepting that -they are clean, are in every respect Moorish. The inhabitants are rude -in speech and manners, and amount to about 8000. - -From the S.E. salient angle of the town, a sandy isthmus juts about a -thousand yards into the sea, and is connected by a narrow artificial -causeway with a rocky peninsula, or island, as it is more generally -termed, that stretches yet 700 or 800 yards further into the Straits of -Gibraltar. This is the most southerly point of Europe, being in latitude -30° 0' 56", which is nearly six miles to the south of Europa Point. - -The island is of a circular form, and towards the sea is merely defended -by three open batteries, armed _en barbette_; but to the land side, it -presents a bastioned front, that sweeps the causeway with a most -formidable fire. A lighthouse stands at the extreme point of the island, -which also contains a casemated barrack for troops, and some remarkable -old tanks, perhaps of a date much prior to the arrival of the Saracens. - -The foundation of the town of Tarifa is usually ascribed to Tarik Aben -Zaide, the first Mohammedan invader of Spain; who probably, previous to -crossing the Straits, had marked the island as offering a favourable -landing-place, as well as a secure depôt for his stores, and a safe -refuge in the event of a repulse. Mariana, however, imagined, that -Tartessus, or Carteia--which he considered the same place--stood upon -this spot; and, under this persuasion, he speaks of the admiral of the -Pompeian faction retiring there, after his action with Cæsar's fleet, -and drawing a chain across the mouth of the port to protect his -vessels; a circumstance which alone proves that Carteia was not Tarifa; -since it must be evident to any one who has examined the coast -attentively, that no port could possibly have existed there, which could -have afforded shelter to a large fleet, and been closed by drawing a -chain across its mouth. - -Others, again, suppose Tarifa to occupy the site of Mellaria. But I -rather incline to the opinion of those who consider it doubtful whether -_any_ Roman town stood upon the spot; an opinion for which I think I -shall hereafter be able to assign sufficient reason. - -As Tarifa was the field wherein the Mohammedan invaders of Spain -obtained their first success, so, six centuries after, did it become the -scene of one of their most humiliating defeats; the battle of the -_Salado_, gained A.D. 1340, by Alphonso XI., of Castile, having -inflicted a blow upon them, from the effects of which they never -recovered. Four crowned heads were engaged in that sanguinary -conflict--the King of Portugal, as the ally of the Castillian hero; -Jusuf, King of Granada; and Abu Jacoob, Emperor of Morocco. The -last-named, according to the Spanish historians, had crossed over from -Africa, with an army of nearly half a million of men, to avenge the -death of his son, Abou Melic; killed the preceding year at the battle of -Arcos. - -The little river, which gave its name to that important battle gained by -the Christian army on its banks, winds through a plain to the westward -of Tarifa, crossing the road to Cadiz, at about two miles from the -town.[20] The valley is about three miles across, and extends a -considerable distance inland. It is watered by several mountain streams -that fall into the Salado. That rivulet is the last which is met with, -and is crossed by a long wooden bridge on five stone piers. - -The term _Salado_ is of very common occurrence amongst the names of the -rivers of the south of Spain; though in most cases it is used rather as -a term signifying a _water-course_, than as the name of the rivulet: -thus _El Salado de Moron_ is a stream issuing from the mountains in the -vicinity of the town of Moron; _El Salado de Porcuna_ is a torrent that -washes the walls of Porcuna; and so with the rest. As, however, the word -in Spanish signifies salt, (used adjectively) it has led to many -mistakes, and occasioned much perplexity in determining the course of -the river _Salsus_, mentioned so frequently by Hirtius; but to which, in -point of fact, the word _Salado_ has no reference whatever, being -applied to numerous streams that are perfectly free from salt. - -On the other hand, it might naturally be supposed that the word _Salido_ -(the past participle of the verb _Salir_, to issue) would have been used -if intended to signify a source or stream issuing from the mountains. - -It seems to me, therefore, that the word _Salado_ must be a derivation -from the Arabic _S[=a]l_, a water-course in a valley; which, differing -so little in sound from _Salido_, continued to be used after the -expulsion of the Moors; until at length, its derivation being lost, it -came to be considered as signifying what the word actually means in -Spanish, viz. impregnated with salt. - -At the western extremity of the plain, watered by the _Salado de -Tarifa_, a barren Sierra terminates precipitously along the coast, -leaving but a narrow space between its foot and the sea, for the passage -of the road to Cadiz. Under shelter of the eastern side of this Sierra, -standing in the plain, but closing the little Thermopylæ, I think we may -place the Roman town of Mellaría,[21] eighteen miles from Carteia, and -six from Belone Claudia, according to the Itinerary of Antoninus; and -mentioned by Strabo as a place famous for curing fish. - -Tarifa, which, as I have said before, is supposed by some authors to be -on the site of Mellaría, is in the first place rather too near Calpe -Carteia to accord with that supposition; and in the next, it is far too -distant from Belon; the site of which is well established by numerous -ruins visible to this day, at a _despoblado_,[22] called Bolonia. - -It may be objected, on the other hand, that the position which I suppose -Mellaría to have occupied, is as much too far removed from Carteia, as -Tarifa is too near it: and following the present road, it certainly is -so. But there is no reason to take for granted that the ancient military -way followed this line; on the contrary, as the Romans rather preferred -straight to circuitous roads, we may suppose that, as soon as the nature -of the country admitted of it, they carried their road away from the -coast, to avoid the promontory running into the sea at Tarifa. Now, an -opportunity for them to do this presented itself on arriving at the -valley of Gualmesi, from whence a road might very well have been carried -direct to the spot that I assign for the position of Mellaría; which -road, by saving two miles of the circuitous route by Tarifa, would fix -Mellaría at the prescribed distance from Carteia, and also bring it -(very nearly) within the number of miles from Belon, specified in the -Roman Itinerary, viz. six; whereas, if Mellaría stood where Tarifa now -does, the distance would be nearly _ten_. - -The city of Belon appears to have slipped bodily from the side of the -mountain on which it was built (probably the result of an earthquake), -as its ruins may be distinctly seen when the tide is out and the water -calm, stretching some distance into the Atlantic. Vestiges of an -aqueduct may also be traced for nearly a league along the coast, by -means of which the town was supplied with water from a spring that rises -near Cape Palomo, the southernmost point of the same Sierra under which -Belon was situated. - -In following out the Itinerary of Antoninus--according to which the -total distance from Calpe to Gades is made seventy-six miles[23]--the -next place mentioned after Belon Claudia is Besippone, distant twelve -miles. This place, it appears to me, must have stood on the coast a -little way beyond the river Barbate; and not at Vejer, (which is several -miles inland) as some have supposed; for the distance from the ruins of -Bolonia to that town far exceeds that specified in the Itinerary. - -Vejer (or Beger, as it is indifferently written) may probably be where a -Roman town called Besaro stood, of which Besippo was the port; the -latter only having been noticed in the Itinerary from it being situated -on the direct military route from Carteia to Gades; the former by -Pliny,[24] as being a place of importance within the _Conventus -Gaditani_. - -From Besippone to Mergablo--the next station of the Itinerary--is six -miles; and at that distance from the spot where I suppose the first of -those places to have stood, there is a very ancient tower on the sea -side, (to the westward of Cape Trafalgar) from which an old, apparently -Roman, paved road, now serving no purpose whatever, leads for several -miles into the country. From this tower to Cadiz--crossing the Santi -Petri river _at its mouth_--the distance exceeds but little twenty-four -miles; the number given in the Itinerary. - -The distances I have thus laid down agree pretty well throughout with -those marked on the Roman military way; which, it may be supposed, were -not _very exactly_ measured, since the fractions of miles have in every -case been omitted. The only objection which can be urged to my -measurements is, that they make the Roman miles too long. Having, -however, taken the Olympic stadium (in this instance) as my standard, of -which there are but 600 to a degree of the Meridian, or seventy-five -Roman miles; and as my measurements, even with it, are still rather -_short_, the reply is very simple, viz. that the adoption of any -_smaller_ scale would but _increase the error_. - -From the spot where I suppose Mellaría to have stood--which is marked by -a little chapel standing on a detached pinnacle of the _Sierra de -Enmedio_, overhanging the sea--the distance to the Rio Baqueros is two -miles; the road keeping along a flat and narrow strip of land, between -the foot of the mountain and the sea. - -The coast now trends to the south west, a high wooded mountain, -distinguished by the name of the Sierra de _San Mateo_, stretching some -way into the sea, and forming the steep sandy cape of _Paloma_, a league -on the western side of which are the ruins of Belon. - -The road to Cadiz, however, leaves the sea-shore to seek a more level -country, and, inclining slightly to the north, keeping up the _Val de -Baqueros_ for five miles, reaches a pass between the mountains of San -Mateo and Enmedio. - -The valley is very wild and beautiful. Laurustinus, arbutus, oleander, -and rhododendron are scattered profusely over the bed of the torrent -that rushes down it; and the bounding mountains are richly clothed with -forest trees. - -From the pass an extensive view is obtained of the wide plain of Vejer, -and _laguna de la Janda_ in its centre. Descending for two miles and a -half,--the double-peaked Sierra _de la Plata_ being now on the left -hand, and that of _Fachenas_, studded with water-mills, on the -right--the road reaches the eastern extremity of the above-named plain, -where the direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz falls in, and that of -Medina Sidonia branches off to the right. The Cadiz route here inclines -again to the westward, and, in three miles, reaches the _Venta de -Tavilla_. - -From hence two roads present themselves for continuing the journey; one -proceeding along the edge of the plain; the other keeping to the left, -and making a slight détour by the _Sierra de Retin_; and when the plain -is flooded, it is necessary to take this latter route. Let those who -find themselves in this predicament avoid making the solitary hovel, -called the _Venta de Retin_, their resting-place for the night, as I was -once obliged to do; for, unless they are partial to a guard bed, and to -go to it supperless, they will not meet with accommodation and -entertainment to their liking. - -We will return, however, to the _Venta de Tabilla_, which is a fraction -of a degree better than that of Retin. From thence the distance to Vejer -is fourteen miles. The first two pass over a gently swelling country, -planted with corn; the next six along the low wooded hills bordering the -_laguna de la Janda_; the remainder over a hilly, and partially wooded -tract, whence the sea is again visible at some miles distance on the -left. - -In winter the greater part of the plain of Vejer is covered with water, -there being no outlet for the _Laguna_; which, besides being the -reservoir for all the rain that falls on the surrounding hills, is fed -by several considerable streams. - -A project to drain the lake was entertained some years ago; but, like -all other Spanish projects, it failed, after an abortive trial. In its -present state, therefore, the whole surface of the plain is available -only for pasture; and numerous herds are subsisted on it. The gentle -slopes bounding it, being secure from inundation, are planted with corn. - -Vejer is situated on the northern extremity of a bare mountain ridge, -that stretches inland from the coast about five miles, and terminates in -a stupendous precipice along the right bank of the river Barbate. -Towards the sea, however, it slopes more gradually, forming the forked -headland, for ever celebrated in history, called Cape Trafalgar. - -When arrived within half a mile of the lofty cliff whereon the town -stands, the road enters a narrow gorge, by which the Barbate escapes to -the ocean; this part of its course offering a remarkable contrast to the -rest, which is through an extensive flat. - -A stone bridge of three curiously constructed arches, said to be Roman, -gives a passage over the stream; and a venta is situated on the right -bank, immediately under the town; the houses of which may be seen edging -the precipice, at a height of five or six hundred feet above the river. - -The road to Cadiz, and consequently all others,--it being the most -southerly,--avoids the ascent to Vejer, which is very steep, and so -circuitous as to occupy fully half an hour. But the place is well worth -a visit, if only for the sake of the view from the church steeple, which -is very extensive and beautiful; and taken altogether, it is a much -better town than could be expected, considering its truly out-of-the-way -situation. That it was a Roman station, its position alone sufficiently -proves; but whether it be the Besaro, or Belippo, or even Besippo of -Pliny, seems doubtful. - -It occupies a tolerably level space; though bounded on three sides by -precipices, and is consequently still a very defensible post, -notwithstanding its walls are all destroyed. The streets are narrow, but -clean and well paved; and the place contains many good houses, and -several large convents. The inns, however, are such wretched places, -that on one occasion, when I passed a night there, I had to seek a -resting-place in a private house. - -The Barbate is navigable for large barges up to the bridge; but the -difficulty of access to the town prevents its carrying on much trade. -The population amounts to about 6,000 souls. - -There is a delightful walk down a wooded ravine on the western side of -the town, by which the road to Cadiz and the valley of the Barbate may -be regained quicker than by retracing our footsteps to the Venta. Of -this latter I feel bound to say--after much experience--that there is -not a better halting-place between Cadiz and Gibraltar; albeit, many -stories are told of robberies committed even within its very walls. Let -the traveller take care, therefore, to show his pistols to mine host, -and to lock his bedroom door. - -We resumed our journey with the dawn. The road keeps for nearly a mile -along the narrow, flat strip between the bank of the river, and the high -cliff whereon the town is perched. The gorge then terminates, and an -open country permits the roads to the different neighbouring places to -branch off in their respective directions. From hence to Medina Sidonia -is thirteen miles; to Alcalà de los Gazules, twenty; and to -Chiclana--whither we were bound--fifteen;--but, leaving these three -roads on the right, we proceeded by a rather more circuitous route to -the last mentioned place, by Conil and Barrosa. - -The distance from Vejer to Conil is nine miles; the country undulated -and uninteresting. Conil is a large fishing town, containing a swarming -population of 8,000 souls. The smell of the houses where the tunny fish -(here taken in great abundance) are cut up and cured, extends inland for -several miles; but the inhabitants consider it very wholesome; and to my -animadversive remarks on the filth and effluvium of the place itself, -answer was made, "_no hay epidemia aqui_;"[25]--quite a sufficient -excuse, according to their ideas, for submitting to live the life of -hogs. - -We arrived just as the fishermen had enclosed a shoal of Tunny with -their nets; so, putting up our horses, we waited to see the result of -their labours. The whole process is very interesting. The Tunny can be -discovered when at a very considerable distance from the land; as they -arrive in immense shoals, and cause a ripple on the surface of the -water, like that occasioned by a light puff of wind on a calm day. Men -are, therefore, stationed in the different watch towers along the coast, -to look out for them, and, immediately on perceiving a shoal, they make -signals to the fishermen, indicating the direction, distance, &c. Boats -are forthwith put to sea, and the fish are surrounded with a net of -immense size, but very fine texture, which is gradually hauled towards -the shore. - -The tunny, coming in contact with this net, become alarmed, and make off -from it in the only direction left open to them. The boats follow, and -draw the net in, until the space in which the fish are confined is -sufficiently small to allow a second net, of great strength, to -circumscribe the first; which is then withdrawn. The tunny, although -very powerful, (being nearly the size and very much the shape of a -porpoise) have thus far been very quiet, seeking only to escape under -the net; and have hardly been perceptible to the spectators on the -beach. But, on drawing in the new net, and getting into shallow water, -their danger gives them the courage of despair, and furious are their -struggles to escape from their hempen prison. - -The scene now becomes very animated. When the draught is heavy--as it -was in this instance--and there is a possibility of the net being -injured, and of the fish escaping if it be drawn at once to land, the -fishermen arm themselves with harpoons, or stakes, having iron hooks at -the end, and rush into the sea whilst the net is yet a considerable -distance from the shore, surrounding it, and shouting with all their -might to frighten the fish into shallow water, when they become -comparatively powerless. - -In completing the investment of their prey, some of the fishermen are -obliged even to swim to the outer extremity of the net, where, holding -on by the floats with one hand, they strike, with singular dexterity, -such fish as approach the edge, in the hope of effecting their escape, -with a short harpoon held in the other. The men in the boats, at the -same time, keep up a continual splashing with their oars, to deter the -tunny from attempting to leap over the hempen enclosure; which, -nevertheless, many succeed in doing, amidst volleys of "_Carajos!_" - -The fish are thus killed in the water, and then drawn in triumph on -shore. They are allowed to bleed very freely; and the entrails, roes, -livers, and eyes, are immediately cut out, being perquisites of -different authorities. - -The flesh is salted, and exported in great quantities to Catalonia, -Valencia, and the northern provinces of the kingdom. A small quantity of -oil is extracted from the bones. - -Some years since, the Duke of Medina Sidonia enjoyed the monopoly of the -tunny fishery on this part of the coast, which was calculated to have -given him a yearly profit of £4000 sterling. But, at the time of my -visit, he had been deprived of this privilege, much to the regret of the -inhabitants of Conil; for the nets and salting-houses, being the -property of the duke, had to be hired, and as there were no capitalists -in the place able to embark in so expensive a speculation as the -purchase of others, the "company" that engaged in the fishery was, -necessarily, composed of strangers to Conil, whose only object was to -obtain the greatest possible profit during the short period for which -they held the duke's property on lease. They, consequently, drove the -hardest bargain they could with the poor inhabitants, who, accustomed -all their lives to this employment, could not turn their hands to any -other, and were forced to submit. - -I do not mean to defend monopolies in general, but what I have stated -shows, that in the present state of Spain they are almost unavoidable -evils. The inhabitants of Conil, at all events, complained most bitterly -of the change. - -The fishery lasts from March to July, and the season of which I write -(then drawing to a close,) was considered a very successful one, 1300 -tunny having been taken at Conil, and 1600 at Barrosa. Each fish is -worth ten dollars, or two pounds sterling. The falling off has, however, -been most extraordinary, as in former days we read of 70,000 fish having -been taken annually. - -From Conil the road keeps along the coast for twelve miles, to Barrosa, -a spot occupying a distinguished place in the pages of history, but -marked only by an old tower on the coast, and a small building, called a -_vigia_, or watch-house, situated on a knoll that rises slightly above -the general level of the country. This was the great object of -contention on the celebrated 5th March, 1811. - -Never, perhaps, were British soldiers placed under greater disadvantages -than on this glorious day, through the incapacity or pusillanimity, or -both, of the Spanish general who commanded in chief. And though far more -important victories have been gained by them, yet the cool bearing and -determined courage that shone forth so conspicuously on this occasion, -by completely removing the erroneous impression under which their -opponents laboured, as to the fitness of Englishmen for soldiers, -produced, perhaps, better effects than might have attended a victory -gained on a larger scale, under _more favourable_ circumstances. - -I have met with Spaniards who absolutely shed tears when speaking of -this battle, in which they considered our troops had been so shamefully -abandoned by their countrymen, or rather by the general who led them. -Nor is it surprising that the English character should stand so high as -it does in this part of the Peninsula, when, within the short space of a -day's ride, three such names as Tarifa, Trafalgar, and Barrosa, are -successively brought to recollection. - -The walls of the watch-house of Barrosa still bear the marks of mortal -strife, and the hill on which it stands is even yet strewed with the -bleached bones of the horses which fell there; but so slight is the -command the knoll possesses--indeed in so unimportant, pinched-up a -corner of the coast is it situated--that those who are not aware of the -unaccountable events which led to the battle, may well be surprised at -its having been chosen as a military position. - -Striking into the pine-forest, which bounds the field of battle to the -west, we arrived in about half an hour at the bridge and mill of -Almanza, and proceeding onwards, in four miles reached Chiclana; first -winding round the base of a conical knoll, surmounted by a chapel -dedicated to _Santa Ana_. - -Chiclana is the Highgate of the good citizens of Cadiz, and contains -many "genteel family residences," adapted for summer visiters; but the -place is disgracefully dirty, so that little benefit can be expected -from _change of air_. The gardens in its vicinage offer agreeable -promenades, however; and there is a fine view from the chapel of _Santa -Ana_, whence may be seen - - "Fair Cadiz, rising o'er the dark blue sea." - -Chiclana contains a population of about 6000 souls, and boasts of -possessing a tolerably good _posada_, whereat _calesas_, and other -vehicles, may be hired to proceed to the neighbouring towns; the roads -to all, even the direct one to Vejer, being open to wheel carriages. - -A rivulet bathes the north side of the town, dividing it from a large -suburb, and flowing on to the Santi Petri river. The Cadiz road, -crossing this stream by a long wooden bridge, proceeds for three miles -and a half (in company with the routes to _Puerto Santa Maria_, _Puerto -Real_, and _Xeres_,)[26] along a raised causeway, which keeps it above -the saltpans and marshes that render the _Isla de Leon_ so difficult of -approach. Arrived at a wide stream, a ferry-boat affords the means of -passage; and, on gaining the southern bank, the great road from Cadiz to -Madrid (passing through the towns above mentioned) presents itself. - -Taking the direction of Cadiz, our passports were immediately demanded -at the entrance of a fortified post, called the _Portazgo_,[27] the -first advanced redoubt of the multiplied defences of the _Isla de Leon_. -From thence the road is conducted, for nearly a mile, through bogs and -saltpans, as before, to the _Puente Zuazo_, a bridge over the river -_Santi Petri_, or _San Pedro_. This, by the way, is rather an arm of the -sea than a river, since it communicates between the bay of Cadiz and the -ocean, and forms the _Isla_ (island) _de Leon_, which otherwise would be -an isthmus. The channel is very wide, deep, and muddy; the bridge has -five arches, and was built by a Doctor _Juan Sanchez de Zuazo_ (whence -its name), on the foundation of one that existed in the days of the -Romans, and is supposed to have served as an aqueduct to supply Cadiz -with water from the _Sierra de Xeres_. It is protected by a double tête -de pont; and has one arch cut, and its parapets pierced with embrasures, -to enable artillery to fire down the stream. - -Soon after reaching the right bank of the San Pedro, the long straggling -town of the Isla, or, more properly, _San Fernando_, commences. The main -street is upwards of a mile in length, wide, and rather handsome. The -population of this place is estimated at 30,000 souls; but it varies -considerably, according to the date of the last visitation of yellow -fever. - -At the southern extremity of the city a low range of hills begins, which -stretches for a mile and a half towards the sea. The causeway to Cadiz, -however, is directed straight upon the _Torre Gorda_, standing upon the -shore more to the westward, and three miles distant from the town of -_San Fernando_. - -Here commences the narrow sandy isthmus that connects the point of land -on which Cadiz is built with the _Isla_. It is five miles long, and in -some places so narrow, that the waves of the Atlantic on one side, and -those of the bay of Cadiz on the other, reach the walls of the causeway. -About half way between the _Torre Gorda_ and Cadiz, the isthmus is cut -across by a fort called the _Cortadura_, beyond which it becomes much -wider. - -At five miles to the eastward of the _Torre Gorda_, or Tower of -Hercules, as it is also called, is the mouth of the Santi Petri river, -and four miles only beyond it is the _Vigia de Barrosa_; so that the -distance from thence to Cadiz is almost doubled by making the détour by -Chiclana. It is more than probable, therefore, that the Romans had a -military post, commanding a _flying bridge_, at the mouth of the river; -for, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, the coast-road from _Calpe_ to -_Gades_ was not directed from _Mergablo_ "_ad pontem_," as in the route -laid down from _Gades_ to _Hispalis_ (Seville), but "_ad -Herculem_;"--that is, it may be presumed, to the temple of Hercules,[28] -situated, according to common tradition, on a part of the coast near the -mouth of the Santi Petri river, over which the waves of the Atlantic now -roll unobstructed; and the supposed site of which temple is the same -distance from Cadiz as the bridge of Zuazo, thereby agreeing with the -Roman Itineraries. - -At the distance of 1200 yards from the river's mouth a rocky islet rises -from the sea, bearing on its scarped sides the inapproachable little -castle of _Santi Petri_, the bleached walls of which are said to have -been built from the ruins of the famed temple of Hercules. - -Contemptible as this isolated fortress appears to be, as well from its -size as from any thing that art has done for it, the fate of Cadiz, -nevertheless, depends in a great measure upon its preservation; since, -from the command the castle possesses of the entrance of the river, an -enemy, who may gain possession of it, is enabled to force the passage of -the stream under its protecting fire, and take in reverse all the -defenses of the _Isla de Leon_. Cadiz would thereby be reduced to its -own resources; and strong as Cadiz is, yet, like all fortresses defended -only by art, it must eventually fall. - -The surrender of the castle of _Santi Petri_ to the French, in the siege -of 1823, occasioned the immediate fall of Cadiz, its defenders seeing -that further resistance would be unavailing; whereas, the capture of the -_Trocadero_, about which so much was thought, did little towards the -reduction of the place. Indeed, the _Trocadero_ was in possession of the -enemy during the whole period of the former siege, 1810-12. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - CADIZ--ITS FOUNDATION--VARIOUS NAMES--PAST PROSPERITY--MADE A FREE - PORT IN THE HOPE OF RUINING THE TRADE OF GIBRALTAR--UNJUST - RESTRICTIONS ON THE COMMERCE OF THE BRITISH FORTRESS--DESCRIPTION - OF CADIZ--ITS VAUNTED AGREMENS--SOCIETY--MONOTONOUS - LIFE--CATHEDRAL--ADMIRABLY BUILT SEA WALL--NAVAL ARSENAL OF LA - CARRACA--ROAD TO XERES--PUERTO REAL--PUERTO DE SANTA - MARIA--XERES--ITS FILTH--WINE STORES--METHOD OF PREPARING - WINE--DOUBTS OF THE ANCIENT AND DERIVATION OF THE PRESENT NAME OF - XERES--CARTHUSIAN CONVENT--GUADALETE--BATTLE OF XERES. - - -The date of the foundation of Cadiz is lost in the impenetrable chaos of -heathen mythology. One of the numerous conquerors, distinguished by the -general name of Hercules, who, in early ages, carried their victorious -arms to the remotest extremities of Europe, appears to have erected a -temple at the westernmost point of the rocky ledge on which Cadiz now -stands; and round this temple, doubtless, a town gradually sprung up. -But the place came only to be known and distinguished by the name -_Gadira_, when the commercial enterprise of the Phoenicians led them -to make a settlement on this defensible island; and the foundation of -the temple dedicated to Hercules, which Strabo describes as situated at -the eastern extremity of the same island, "where it is separated from -the continent by a strait only about a stadium in width," is ascribed to -Pygmalion, nearly nine centuries before the Christian era. - -Gadira, or Gades, to which the name now became corrupted, was the first -town of Spain forcibly occupied by the Carthagenians, who, throwing off -the mask of friendship, took possession of it about the year B.C. 240. -It was the last place that afforded them a refuge in the war which -shortly followed with the Romans, into whose hands it fell, B.C. 203. -From the Romans it afterwards received the name of Augusta Julia, -probably from its adherence to the cause of Cæsar, who restored to the -temple of Hercules the treasures of which it had been plundered during -the civil wars that had previously distracted the country. But its old -name, altered apparently to its present orthography by the Moors, seems -always to have prevailed. - -Under the Moslems, Cadiz does not appear to have enjoyed any very great -consideration; and it was wrested from them without difficulty by San -Fernando, soon after the capture of Seville. - -On the discovery of America, Cadiz became, next to Seville (which was -endowed with peculiar privileges), the richest city of Spain. Its -imports at that time amounted annually to eleven millions sterling. But -since the loss of the American colonies, its prosperity has been rapidly -declining; and some years back, when the intestine troubles of Spain -rendered it impossible for her to afford protection to her commerce, the -trade of Cadiz may be said to have ceased. - -A _fillip_ was, however, given to its commerce, for it would be absurd -to call it an attempt to restore it--about nine years since, by making -it a free port. But this apparently liberal act, not having been -accompanied by any reduction of the duties imposed on foreign produce -introduced for consumption into the country, was merely a disgraceful -contrivance on the part of the king and his ministers to obtain money. - -On the promulgation of the edict constituting Cadiz a free port, it -became at once an entrepôt for the produce of all nations; the goods -brought to it being subjected only to a trifling charge for landing, &c. -The proceeds of this pitiful tax went to the coffers of the -municipality, which had paid the king handsomely for the "act of grace" -bestowed upon the city; and no source of revenue was opened to the -public treasury by the grant of this special privilege, since the goods -landed at Cadiz could only be carried into the interior of the country -on payment of duties that amounted to an absolute prohibition of them, -and they were, consequently, introduced surreptitiously by bribing the -city authorities and custom-house officers; who, in their turn, paid -large sums for their respective situations to the ministers of the -crown! - -Such is the way in which the commercial concerns of Spain are conducted. -The whole affair was, in fact, a temporary expedient to raise money by -selling Cadiz permission to smuggle. At the same time, the Spanish -government--by offering foreign merchants a mart which, at first sight, -seemed more conveniently situated for disposing of their goods than -Gibraltar--hoped to give a death-blow to the commerce of the British -fortress, which it had found to thrive, in spite of all the iniquitous -restrictions imposed upon it; such, for instance, as the exaction of -duties on goods shipped from thence, double in amount to those levied on -the _same articles_, if brought from the ports of France and Italy; the -depriving even Spanish vessels, if coming from, or touching at, -Gibraltar, of all advantages in regard to the rate of duty otherwise -granted to the national flag;[29] and various other abuses, to which it -is astonishing the British government has so long quietly submitted. - -The scheme, however, though successful for a time against Gibraltar, did -no permanent good to Cadiz; and the trade of the place has relapsed into -its former sickly state. - -"Cadiz! sweet Cadiz," has been so extolled by modern authors, that I am -almost afraid to say what I think of it. It strikes me, that the very -favourable impression it usually makes on my countrymen is owing to its -being, in most cases, the first place they see after leaving England; -or, perchance, the first place they have seen out of England; to whose -gloomy brick-built towns its bright houses and battlements offer as -agreeable a contrast, as the picturesque costume of its inhabitants does -to the ill-cut garments of the natives of our island. - -Under any circumstances, however, the first impression made by Cadiz is -favourable, unless you enter by the fish-market. The streets are -straight, tolerably well lighted, and remarkably well paved, many of -them having even the convenience of a _trottoir_. There is one handsome -square, and the houses, generally, are lofty, and those which are -inhabited are clean. But many are falling rapidly to decay, from the -diminished population and prosperity of the place. - -On the other hand, the city does not contain one handsome public -building; and, if one leaves the principal thoroughfares, its boasted -cleanliness and "sweetness" turn out to be mere poetical delusions. In -fact, the vaunted _agrémens_ of the city to me were undiscoverable. -There is but one road to ride upon, one promenade to walk upon, one -sheet of water to boat upon. The Alameda, on which much hyperbolical -praise has been bestowed, is a dusty gravel walk, extending about half a -mile along the ramparts. It is lined--not shaded--with stunted trees, -and commands a fine view of the marsh-environed bay when the tide is in, -and a disagreeable effluvium from it when the tide is out; and, I must -say, that I never could perceive any more "harmony and fascination" in -the movements of the pavonizing _gaditanas_ who frequent it, than in -those of the fair promenaders of other Spanish towns. The _Plaza de San -Antonio_ is a square, situated in the heart of the city, which, paved -with large flag-stones, and lighted with lamps, may be considered a kind -of treadmill, that fashion has condemned her votaries to take an hour's -exercise in after the fatigues of the day. - -The society of Cadiz is now but second rate; for it is no longer -inhabited as in bygone days, when the nobility from all parts of the -kingdom sought shelter behind its walls. At the Tertulias of the first -circle, gaming is the principal pastime, and I have been given to -understand that the play is very high. The public amusements are few. -There is a tolerable theatre, where Italian Operas are sometimes -performed; but, for the great national diversion, the bull-fight, the -inhabitants have to cross the bay to Puerto Santa Maria. - -In fine, for one whose time is not fully occupied by business, I know of -few _less_ agreeable places of residence than Cadiz. The transient -visiter, who prolongs his stay beyond two days, will find time hang very -heavy on his hands; for having, in that short space, seen all the place -contains, he will be driven to wile away the tedious hours after the -usual manner of its inhabitants, viz., by devoting the morning to the -_cafés_ and billiard-rooms, the afternoon to the _siesta_, evening to -the Alameda, dusk to the Plaza San Antonio and its _Neverias_,[30] and -night to the Tertulias--for such is the life of a Spanish _man of -pleasure_! - -The hospitable mansion of the British Consul General affords those who -have the good fortune to possess his acquaintance a happy relief from -this monotonous and wearisome life; and, besides meeting there the best -society the place affords, the lovers of the fine arts will derive much -gratification from the inspection of Mr. Brackenbury's picture gallery, -which contains many choice paintings of Murillo, and the best Spanish -Masters. - -What few other good paintings Cadiz possesses are scattered amongst -private houses. The churches contain none of any merit. In one of the -Franciscan convents, however, is to be seen a painting that excites much -interest, as being the last which occupied the pencil of Murillo, though -it was not finished by him. Our conductor told me that a most -distinguished English nobleman had offered 500 guineas for it, but the -pious monks refused to sell it to a heretic!--Perhaps, His Grace did not -know before on what _conscientious_ grounds his liberal offer had been -declined. - -The old Cathedral is not worth visiting. The new one, as it is called, -was commenced in the days of the city's prosperity; but the source from -whence the funds for building it were raised, failed ere it was half -finished; and there it stands, a perfect emblem of Spain herself!--a -pile of the most valuable materials, planned on a scale of excessive -magnificence, but put together without the slightest taste, and falling -to decay for want of revenue![31] - -The walls of the city--excepting those of its land front, which are -remarkably well constructed, and kept in tolerable order--are in a -deplorable state of dilapidation, and in some places the sea has -undermined, and made such breaches in them, as even to threaten the -very existence of the city, should it be exposed to a tempest similar to -that which did so much mischief to it some seventy years since. This -decay is particularly observable, too, on the south side of the -fortress, where the sea-wall is exposed to the full sweep of the -Atlantic; and here the mischief has resulted chiefly from the want of -timely attention to its repairs, for the wall itself is a perfect -masterpiece of the building art. Regarding it as such, I venture to -devote a small space to its description, conceiving that a hint may be -advantageously taken therefrom in the future construction of piers, -wharfs, &c. in our own country; and I am the more induced to do so, -since so small a portion of the work remains in its pristine state, that -it already must be spoken of rather as a thing that _has been_, than one -which _is_. - -The great object of the builder was to secure the foundation of his wall -from the assaults of the ocean, which, at times, breaks with excessive -violence upon this coast. For this purpose, he formed an artificial -beach, by clearing away the loose rocks which lay strewed about, and -inserting in the space thus prepared and levelled, a strong wooden -frame-work formed of cases dovetailed into and well fastened to each -other. These cases were filled with stones, and secured by numerous -piles. The surface was composed of beams of wood, placed close -together, carefully caulked, and laid so as to form an inclined plane, -at an angle of eight degrees and a half with the horizon. - -This beach extended twenty-seven yards from the sea-wall; and its foot, -by resting against a kind of breakwater formed of large stones, was -saved from being exposed, vertically, to the action of the sea. The -waves, thus broke upon the artificial beach, and running up its smooth -surface without meeting the slightest resistance, expended, in a great -measure, their strength ere reaching the foot of the wall. - -To avoid, however, the shock which would still have been felt by the -waves breaking against the ramparts, (especially when the sea was -unusually agitated) had the planes of the beach and wall met at an -angle, the upper portion of the surface of the artificial beach--for -about fifteen feet--was laid with large blocks of stone, and united in a -curve, or inverted arch, with the casing of the walls of the rampart; -and the waves being, by this means, conducted upwards, without -experiencing a check, spent their remaining strength in the air, and -fell back upon the wooden beach in a harmless shower of spray. - -So well was the work executed, that many portions of the arch which -connected the beach with the scarped masonry of the rampart are yet -perfect, and may be seen projecting from the face of the wall, about -twenty feet above its foundation; although the beach upon which it -rested has been entirely swept away. - -Another cause, besides neglect, has contributed greatly to the -destruction of this work; namely, the injudicious removal of the stones -and ledges of rock which formed the breakwater of the beach, for -erecting houses and repairing the walls of the city. - -The ride round the ramparts would be an agreeable variety to the -_eternal paseo_ on the _Camino de Ercoles_,[32] but for the insufferable -odours that arise from the vast heaps of filth deposited on one part of -it. To such an extent has this nuisance reached, that, without another -river Alpheus, even the hard-working son of Jupiter (the city's reputed -founder) would find its removal no easy task. - -The arsenal of the _Carracas_ is situated on the northern bank of the -Santi Petri river, about half a mile within the mouth by which that -channel communicates with the bay of Cadiz, and at a distance of two -leagues from the city, to which it has no access by land. Its plan is -laid on a magnificent scale, and it may boast of having equipped some of -the most formidable armaments that ever put to sea; but it is now one -vast ruin, hardly possessing the means of fitting out a cockboat. A -fire, that reduced the greater part of it to ashes some five and thirty -years since, furnishes the national vanity with an agreeable excuse for -its present condition. - -The road from Cadiz to Port St. Mary's is very circuitous, and offers -little to interest any persons but military men and salt-refiners. I -will, therefore, pass rapidly over it--which its condition enables me to -do--merely observing that, from the branching off of the Chaussée to -Chiclana at the _Portazgo_, it makes a wide sweep round the salt marshes -at the head of the bay of Cadiz, to gain _Puerto Real_ (eighteen miles -from Cadiz); and then leaving the peninsula of the _Trocadero_ on the -left, in four miles reaches a long wooden bridge over the -Guadalete--here called the river San Pedro. Two miles further on it -crosses another stream by a similar means; and this second river, which -is connected with the Guadalete by a canal, has become the principal -channel of communication between Xeres and the bay of Cadiz. - -A road now turns off to the right to Xeres; another, on the left, to -Puerto Santa Maria; and that which continues straight on proceeds to San -Lucar, on the Guadalquivír. - -Puerto Real is a large but decayed town, possessing but little -trade,[33] and no manufactories. Its environs, however, are -fertile--enabling it to contend with Port St. Mary's in supplying the -Cadiz market with fruit and vegetables;--and a good crop of hay might -even be taken from its streets after the autumnal rains!--The population -is estimated at 12,000 souls. - -Puerto Santa Maria is a yet larger town than Puerto Real, and is -computed to contain 18,000 inhabitants. It is situated within the mouth -and extending along the right bank of the river, into which the -Guadalete has been partly turned. The entrance to the harbour is -obstructed by a sand bank, which is impassable at low tide; and at -times, when the wind is strong from the S. W., this bar interrupts -altogether the water communication with Cadiz.[34] - -The distance between the two places, across the bay, is but five miles; -by the causeway, twenty-four. - -The main street of Puerto Santa Maria is of great length, wide, and -rather handsome; and the place has, altogether, a very thriving look; -for which it is indebted, as well to the great share it enjoys of the -Xeres wine trade,[35] as to the fruitfulness of its fields and orchards. -The country, to some considerable extent round the town, is perfectly -flat; and the soil (a dark alluvial deposit,) is rich, and highly -cultivated; it is, in fact, the market-garden of Cadiz, the inhabitants -of which place would die of scurvy, if cut off for six months from the -lemon-groves of Port St. Mary. - -The position of Puerto Santa Maria seems to correspond pretty well with -that of the Portus Gaditanus of Antoninus, viz., 14 miles from the -Puente Zuazo, (_Pons_;) the difference being only that between English -and Roman miles. But, besides that there is every appearance of the -Guadalete having altered its course, and consequently swept away all -traces of the Roman port, (or yet more ancient one of _Menesthes_, -according to Strabo,) a fertile soil is, of all things, the most -inimical to the _preservation_ of _ruins_; for gardeners will have no -respect for old stones when they stand in the way of cabbage-plants. It -would, therefore, be vain to look for any vestiges of the ancient town, -in the vicinity of the modern one. - -To proceed to Xeres, we must retrace our steps, along the chaussée to -Cadiz, for about a mile; when, leaving the two roads branching off to -Puerto Real and San Lucar on the right and left, our way continues -straight on, traverses a cultivated plain for another mile, and then -ascends a rather steep ridge, distinguished in this flat country by the -name of _Sierra de Xeres_, though scarcely 500 feet high. - -The view from the summit of this ridge is, nevertheless, remarkably -fine. It embraces the whole extent of the bay of Cadiz; the bright towns -which stand upon its margin; the curiously intersected country that cuts -them off from each other; and the winding courses of the Guadalete and -Santi Petri. - -The slope of the hill is very gradual on the side facing Xeres, and the -view is tame in comparison with that in the opposite direction. The -road, which traverses a country covered with corn and olives, is -_carriageable_ throughout; but there is a better route, which turns the -Sierra to the eastward, keeping nearer the marshes of the Guadalete. The -distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Xeres, by the direct road, is nine -miles; by the post route, ten. - -Xeres is situated in the lap of two rounded hillocks, which shelter it -to the east and west; and it covers a considerable extent of ground. The -city, properly so called, is embraced by an old crenated Moorish wall, -which, though enclosing a labyrinth of narrow, ill-built, and worse -drained streets, is of no great circuit, and is so intermixed with the -houses of the suburbs, as to be visible only here and there. The limits -of the ancient town are well defined, however, by the numerous gateways -still standing, and which, from the augmented size of the place, appear -to be scattered about it without any object. Some of the old buildings -and narrow streets are very sketchy, and the number of gables and -chimneys cannot fail to strike one who has been long accustomed to the -flat-roofed cities of Andalusia. - -The principal merchants of the place reside mostly in the suburbs; -where, besides having greater space for their necessarily extensive -premises, their wine stores are better situated for ventilation; a very -important auxiliary in bringing the juice of the grape to a due state of -perfection. The numerous clean and lofty stores, interspersed with -commodious and well-built houses, gardens, greenhouses, &c., give the -suburbs an agreeable, refreshing appearance. But it is needful to walk -the streets with nose in air, and eyes fixed on things above; for, -though much wider, and consequently more freely exposed to the action of -the sun and air, than those of the circumvallated city, they are yet -more filthy, and quite as nauseating. Now and then, indeed, a generous -brown sherry odour salutes the third sense, counteracting, in some -degree, the unwholesome effects of the noxious cloacal miasms. But the -bad scents prevail in the proportion of ten to one; and, like the -far-famed distilling city of Cologne, Xeres seems to have bottled up, -and hermetically sealed, all its sweets for exportation. - -The population of the place is enormous--being estimated at no less -than 50,000 souls. But the amount is subject to great variations, -dependant on the recentness of the last endemic fever, generated in its -pestiferous gutters. The inhabitants are all, more or less, connected -with the wine trade--which is the only thing thought of or talked of in -the place. - -The store-houses are all above ground. They are immense buildings, -having lofty roofs supported on arches, springing from rows of slender -columns; and their walls are pierced with numerous windows, to admit of -a thorough circulation of air. Some are so large as to be capable of -containing 4000 butts, and are cool, even in the most sultry weather. -The exhalations are, nevertheless, rather _overcoming_, even unaided by -the numerous _samples_, of which one is tempted to make trial. The -number of butts annually made, or, more correctly speaking, _collected_, -at Xeres, amounts to 30,000. Of this number, one half is exported to -England, and includes the produce of nearly all the choicest vineyards -of Xeres; for, in selecting their wines for shipment, the Xeres houses -carefully avoid mixing their first-growth wines with those of lighter -quality, collected from the vineyards of Moguer, San Lucar, and Puerto -Real; or even with such as are produced on their own inferior grounds. - -The remaining 15,000 butts are in part consumed in the country; where a -light wine, having what is called a _Manzanilla_[36] flavour, is -preferred--or sold to the shippers from other places, where they are -generally mixed with inferior wines. - -The total number of butts shipped, annually, from the different ports -round the bay of Cadiz, may be taken at the following average-- - - From Xeres 15,000 almost all to England. - " Puerto Santa Maria 12,000 chiefly to England and the - United States. - { principally to the Habana, - " Chiclana 3,000{ the Ports of Mexico, and - " Puerto Real 500{ Buenos Ayres. - ------- - Total 30,500 - ------- - -But, besides the above, a prodigious quantity of wine finds its way to -England from Moguer and San Lucar, which one never hears of but under -the common denomination of Sherry. - -Most of the principal merchants are growers, as well as venders of wine; -which, with foreign houses, renders it necessary that one partner of the -firm, at least, should be a Roman Catholic; for "_heretics_" cannot hold -lands in Spain. Those who are growers have a decided advantage over such -as merely make up wines; for the latter are liable to have the produce -of the inferior vineyards of San Lucar, Moguer, and other places, mixed -up by the grower of whom they purchase. All Sherries, however, are -_manufactured_; for, it would be almost as difficult to get an unmixed -butt of wine from a Xeres merchant, as a direct answer from a quaker. -But there is no concealment in this mixing process; and it is even quite -necessary, in order to keep up the stock of old wines, which, otherwise, -would soon be consumed. - -These are kept in huge casks--not much inferior in size to the great ton -of Heidelberg--called "_Madre_"[37] butts; and some of these old ladies -contain wine that is 120 years of age. It must, however, be confessed, -that the plan adopted in keeping them up, partakes somewhat of the -nature of "_une imposture delicate_;" since, whenever a gallon of wine -is taken from the 120 year old butt, it is replaced by a like quantity -from the next in seniority, and so on with the rest; so that even the -very oldest wines in the store are daily undergoing a mixing process. - -It is thus perfectly idle, when a customer writes for a "ten-year old" -butt of sherry, to expect to receive a wine which was grown that number -of years previously. He will get a most excellent wine, however, which -will, probably, be prepared for him in the following -manner:--Three-fourths of the butt will consist of a three or four year -old wine, to which a few gallons of _Pajarete_, or _Amontillado_,[38] -will be added, to give the particular flavour or colour required; and -the remainder will be made up of various proportions of old wines, of -different vintages: a dash of brandy being added, to preserve it from -sea-sickness during the voyage. - -To calculate the age of this mixture appears, at first sight, to involve -a laborious arithmetical operation. But it is very simply done, by -striking an average in the following manner:--The _fond_, we will -suppose, is a four-years' old wine, with which figure we must, -therefore, commence our calculations. To flavour and give age to this -foundation, the hundred and twenty years' old "_madre_" is made to -contribute a gallon, which, being about the hundreth part of the -proposed butt, diffuses a year's maturity into the composition. The -centiginarian stock-butt next furnishes a quantity, which in the same -way adds another year to its age. The next in seniority supplies a -proportion equivalent to a space of two years; and a fourth adds a -similar period to its existence. So that, without going further, we have -4+1+1+2+2=10, as clear as the sun at noon-day, or a demonstration in -Euclid. - -This may appear very like "_bishoping_," or putting marks in a horse's -mouth to conceal his real age. But the intention, _in the case of the -wine_, is by no means fraudulent, but simply to distribute more equally -the good things of this life, by furnishing the public with an excellent -composition, which is within the reach of many; for, if this were not -done, the consequence would be, that the Xeres merchant would have a -small quantity of wine in his stores, which, from its extreme age, would -be so valuable, that few persons would be found to purchase it, and a -large stock of inferior wines, which would be driven out of the market -by the produce of other countries. - -The quality of the wine depends, therefore, upon the quantity and age of -the various _madre_ butts from which it has been flavoured; and the -taste is varied from dry to sweet, and the colour from pale to brown, by -the greater or less admixture of _Pajarete_, _Amontillado_, and _boiled_ -sherry. I do not think that the custom of adding boiled wine obtains -generally, for it is a very expensive method of giving age. It is, -however, a very effectual mode, and one that is considered equivalent to -a voyage across the Atlantic, at the very least. - -I have heard of an extensive manufacturer (not of wine) in our own -country, who had rather improved on this plan of giving premature old -age to his wines. He called one of the steam-engines of his factory -_Bencoolen_, and another _Mobile_; and, slinging his butts of Sherry and -Madeira to the great levers of the machinery, gave them the benefit of a -ship's motion, as well as a tropical temperature, without their quitting -his premises; and, after a certain number of weeks' oscillation, he -passed them off as "East and West India _particular_." - -The sweet wines of Xeres are, perhaps, the finest in the world. That -known as _Pajarete_ is the most abundantly made, but the _Pedro Ximenes_ -is of superior flavour. There is also a sweet wine flavoured with -cherries, which is very delicious. - -The light dry Sherries are also very pleasant in their pure state, but -they require to be mixed with brandy and other wines, to keep long, or -to ship for the foreign market. Those, therefore, who purchase _cheap -Sherry_ in England may be assured that it has become a _light_ wine -since its departure from Spain. - -The number of _winehouses_ at Xeres is quite extraordinary. Of these, as -many, I think, as five-and-twenty export almost exclusively to England. -The merchants are extremely hospitable; they live in very good style, -and are particularly choice of the wines that appear at their tables. - -The Spanish antiquaries have by no means settled to their satisfaction -what Roman city stood on the site of modern Xeres. The common opinion -seems to be, that it occupies the place of _Asta Regia_, mentioned by -Pliny as one of the towns within the marshes of the Guadalquivír. -Florez, however, labours to prove that it agrees better with _Asido_. -But I do not think his arguments get over the difficulty arising from -the expression "_in mediterraneo_," applied to that city; which agrees -better with _Medina Sidonia_ than Xeres, the latter being close upon the -flats of the Guadalquivír, whereas the other is decidedly _inland_ with -reference to them. - -The medals of Asido, Florez describes as having sometimes a bull, and at -others a "fish of the _tunny_ kind," upon them. Now this latter emblem -is, most certainly, more applicable to Medina Sidonia than Xeres, since -no fish of the "tunny kind" ever could have frequented the shallow muddy -stream of the Guadalete. And though the city of Medina Sidonia is -situated on the summit of a high hill, sixteen miles from the sea, yet -we may take it for granted that its jurisdiction extended as far as the -coast, to the eastward of the Isla de Leon; since it does not appear -that any town of note intervened between Cadiz and Besaro, or Besippone. - -The same author derives the name Xeres from the Persian _Zeiraz_ -(Schiras); supposing it may have been so called from that having been -the country of the Moslem chief who captured Regia. - -The word assimilates with our mode of pronouncing the name of the -existing town; and the wine of Schiraz was not less esteemed of old -amongst the easterns, than Sherry is now by us, and appears ever to have -been by the ancients; for tradition ascribes to Bacchus the foundation -of Nebrissa, in the vicinity of Xeres. May not, therefore, the celebrity -of its vineyards have led the Arabs to call the town Schiraz, or Xeres, -rather than the country of the chief who conquered it? - -Xeres was captured from the Moors by San Fernando, and, becoming -thenceforth one of the bulwarks of the Christian frontier, changed its -name from _Xeres Sidonia_ to _Xeres de la Frontera_, by which it -continues to be distinguished from others. - -The Guadalete does not approach within a mile and a half of Xeres. This -river is the Chryssus of the Romans; and the Spaniards, ever prone to -boast of the ancient celebrity of their country, maintain it to be the -mythological Lethe of yet more remote times. On its right bank (about -three miles on the road to Medina Sidonia) stands a Carthusian convent -of some note. The pious founders of this edifice--as indeed was their -wont--located themselves in a most enviable situation. The "_elisios -xerexanos prados_" were spread out before them, covered with fat beeves, -and herds of high caste horses, belonging to the order. The perfume of -the surrounding orange-groves penetrated to the innermost recesses of -this house of prayer and penance. The juice of the luscious grape, and -the oil of the purple olives that grew upon the sunny bank whereon it -stands, found their way, with as little obstruction, into its cells and -cellars. But still, with this Canaan in their possession, these austere -disciples of St. Bruno affected to despise the things of this world, and -held not communion with their fellow-creatures! - -The edifice is fast falling to decay; the brotherhood is reduced to a -score of decrepit old men; and--what alone is to be regretted--the -celebrated breed of horses has become extinct. - -The Guadalete winds through the valley overlooked by the _Cartuja_,[39] -and is crossed by a stone bridge of five arches. On gaining the southern -bank of the river, roads branch off in all directions. That to the -left--keeping up the valley--proceeds to Paterna (sixteen miles from -Xeres), and _Alcalà de los Gazules_ (twenty-five miles). Another, -continuing straight on, goes to Medina Sidonia (eighteen miles); and a -third, that presents itself to the right, is directed across the country -to Chiclana, reducing the distance to that place from twenty-six miles -(by the post-road) to sixteen. - -About four miles below the bridge are some store-houses, a wharf, and -ferry, called _El Portal_, from whence the river is navigable to Port -St. Mary's. _El Portal_ may be considered the port of Xeres, to which -place (distant about three miles) there is a good wheel-road. - -The fatal battle which gave Spain up to the dominion of the Saracens -(A.D. 714) was fought on the southern bank of the Guadalete, about five -miles from Xeres, on the road to Paterna. The robes and "horned helmet" -of Roderick, which he is supposed to have thrown off to facilitate his -escape, were found on the bank of the river, where a small chapel, -dedicated to Our Lady of _Leyna_, now stands. The sanguinary fight is -stated--with the customary Spanish exaggeration--to have lasted eight -days! and then only to have been decided in favour of the Mohammedans by -treason. - -But however much we may admire the valour displayed by the Gothic -monarch, in thus obstinately defending his crown, yet the rashness he -was guilty of, in drawing up his forces on such a field (in a country -abounding in strong positions, where the enemy's superiority of numbers -would not have availed them), proves him to have been as little fitted -to command an army as to govern a kingdom. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - CHOICE OF ROADS TO SEVILLE--BY LEBRIJA--MIRAGE--THE MARISMA--POST - ROAD--CROSS ROAD BY LAS CABEZAS AND LOS PALACIOS--DIFFICULTY OF - RECONCILING ANY OF THESE ROUTES WITH THAT OF THE ROMAN - ITINERARY--SEVILLE--GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY--THE - ALAMEDA--DISPLAY OF CARRIAGES--ELEVATION OF THE HOST--PUBLIC - BUILDINGS--THE CATHEDRAL--LONJA--AMERICAN ARCHIVES--ALCAZAR--CASA - PILATA--ROYAL SNUFF MANUFACTORY--CANNON FOUNDRY--CAPUCHIN - CONVENT--MURILLO--THEATRE OF SEVILLE--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STATE OF - THE NATIONAL DRAMA--MORATIN--THE BOLERO--SPANISH DANCING--THE - SPANIARDS NOT A MUSICAL PEOPLE. - - -The traveller who journeys on horseback has the choice of several roads -between Xeres and Seville. The shortest is by the marshes of the -Guadalquivír, visiting only one town, Lebrija, in the whole distance of -eleven leagues. The longest is the post route, or _arrecife_, which -makes a very wide circuit by Utrera and Alcalá de Guadaira, to avoid the -swampy country bordering the river. From this latter road several others -diverge to the left, cutting off various segments of the arc it -describes; and in summer these routes are even better than the highway -itself, though heavy and much intersected by torrents in winter. - -On the first-named or shortest road, the town of Lebrija alone calls for -observation. It is about fifteen miles from Xeres, and stands on the -side of a slightly-marked mound, that stretches some little way into the -wide-spreading plain of the Guadalquivír. The knoll is covered with the -extensive ruins of a castle--a joint work of Romans and Moors--which -during the late war was put into a defensible state by the French. Most -writers agree in placing here the Roman city of Nebrissa;[40] in which -name that of the modern town may readily be distinguished. It is distant -about five miles from the Guadalquivír, and contains three convents, and -a population of 4,000 souls. The Posada is excellent. - -The country from Xeres to Lebrija presents an undulated surface, which -is clothed with vines and olives; but thenceforth the banks of the -"_olivifero Boetis_" are devoted entirely to pasture, and the road is -most uninterestingly flat: so flat, indeed, that there is scarcely a -rise in the whole twenty-eight miles from Lebrija to Seville. It is not -passable in winter, and but one wretched hovel, called the _Venta del -Peleon_, offers itself as a resting-place. The river winds occasionally -close up to the side of the road, and from time to time a barge or -passage boat, gliding along its smooth surface, breaks the wearisome -monotony of the scene; but in general the tortuous stream wanders to a -distance of several miles from the road, and is altogether lost to the -sight in an apparently interminable plain, that stretches to the -westward. - -The misty vapour, or _mirage_, which rises from and hangs over the low -land bordering the river, produces singular deceptions; at times giving -the whole face of the country in advance the semblance of a vast lake; -at others, magnifying distant objects in a most extraordinary manner. On -one occasion, we were surprised to see what had every appearance of -being a large town rise up suddenly before us; and it was only when -arrived within a few hundred yards of the objects we had taken for -churches and houses, that we became convinced they were but a drove of -oxen. These imaginary oxen proved in the end, however, to be only a -flock of sheep. The _Marisma_,[41] for such is the name given to this -low ground, affords pasturage for immense herds of cattle of all sorts, -and the herbage is so fine as to lead one to wonder what becomes of all -the _fat_ beef and mutton in Spain. - -The post road from Xeres to Seville, as I have already mentioned, is -very circuitous, increasing the distance from forty-three to fifty-six -miles--reckoned fifteen and a half post leagues. - -For the first thirteen miles, that is, to the post house of _La Casa -real del Cuervo_, the road traverses a country rich in corn and olives, -but skirting for some considerable distance the western limits of a vast -heath, called the _llanura de Caulina_, whereon even goats have -difficulty in finding sustenance. The first league of the road is -perfectly level, the rest hilly. A little beyond the post house of El -Cuervo, a road strikes off to the left to Lebrija. The _arrecife_, -proceeding on towards Utrera, crosses numerous gulleys by which the -winter torrents are led down from the side of the huge _Sierra -Gibalbin_, which, here raising its head on the right, stretches to the -north for a mile or two, keeping parallel to the road, and then again -sinks to the plain. This passed, the remainder of the road to Utrera is -conducted along what may be termed the brow of a wide tract of low table -land, which, extending to the foot of the distant _Serranía de Ronda_ on -the right, breaks in the opposite direction into innumerable -ramifications, towards the plain of the Guadalquivír. - -In the entire distance to Utrera, (twenty-four miles from _El Cuervo_) -there is not a single village on the road, and but very few farms or -even cottages scattered along it. It is plentifully furnished with -bridges for crossing the various _barrancas_[42] that drain the mountain -ravines in the winter, and by means of these bridges the chaussée is -kept nearly on a dead level throughout. About midway there is another -post house. This road is so perfectly uninteresting, that, availing -myself of the earliest opportunity of quitting it and proceeding to -Seville by a more direct, if not a more diversified route, I will strike -into a well-beaten track that presents itself, edging away to the left, -about three miles beyond _El Cuervo_, and is directed on Las Cabezas de -San Juan, distant about six miles from the post road. - -Las Cabezas de San Juan is a wretched little village, which inscriptions -found in its vicinity have decided to be the _Ugia_[43] of the Romans. -It is situated on a knoll, commanding an extensive view over the -circumjacent flat country, and some years since contained a population -of a thousand or twelve hundred souls. But, having been the hotbed -wherein Riego's conspiracy was brought to unnatural maturity, it was -razed to the ground during the short contest that restored Ferdinand to -a despotic throne, and "all its pleasant things laid waste." - -From hence to _Los Palacios_ is ten miles. The country is flat, and but -partially cultivated. A short league before reaching _Los Palacios_, a -long ruined bridge, called _El Alcantarilla_, is seen at a little -distance off the road on the right. In the time of Swinburne, this -bridge appears to have been passable, and an inscription was then -sufficiently perfect to announce its Roman origin. It was probably -raised to carry a road from Lebrija to Utrera across a marshy tract, -which in winter is apt to be flooded by the _Salado de Moron_; or -perhaps the road over it may have been directed on _Dos Hermanos_, which -is known to be the Roman town of Orippo. - -Los Palacios is a clean compact village, of about 1,000 inhabitants. A -plain extends for many miles on all sides of it, but a slight, perhaps -artificial, mound rises slightly above the general level of the place on -its eastern side, and bears the weight of its ruined castle: the walls -of the village itself are also fast crumbling to the dust. The inns are -miserable; but a Spanish nobleman, with whom we had become acquainted at -Xeres, had obligingly furnished us with a letter of introduction to a -gentleman of the place, who entertained us most hospitably, and very -reluctantly--for he wished much to detain us--gave orders to the _dueña_ -of his household to have the usual breakfast of chocolate and bread -fried in lard prepared for us by daybreak on the following morning. - -From Los Palacios to Seville the distance is reckoned five "_leguas -regulares_," but it is barely fifteen miles. The country to the north of -the village is very fruitful, and becomes hilly as one proceeds. At -about nine miles there is a solitary venta, on the margin of a stream -that comes down from _Dos Hermanos_; which village is situated about a -league off on the right. - -It is a matter of some little difficulty to make any of the roads -between Cadiz and Seville (that is, from Port St. Mary's onwards) agree -with the route laid down in the Itinerary of Antoninus. The distance of -the _Portus Gaditanus_ from _Hispalis_ is therein stated to be -seventy-six Roman miles,[44] or, according to Florez, sixty-eight;[45] -which miles, if computed to contain eight _Olympic_ stadia each, are -equal to seventy, and sixty-three British statute miles respectively; -the actual distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Seville being, by the -chaussée, sixty-six miles; by Lebrija and the marshes, fifty-two. - -On comparing these distances, therefore, one would naturally be led to -suppose that the Roman military way followed the circuitous line of the -existent chaussée, but that monuments and inscriptions, which have been -found at Las Cabezas de St. Juan and Dos Hermanos, prove those places -to be the towns of _Ugia_ and _Orippo_, mentioned in the Itinerary as -lying upon the road. We are under the necessity, therefore, of adopting -a line which reduces the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ to -_Hispalis_ far below even that given by Florez. - -The only way of meeting all these difficulties and premises seems to be -by taking a smaller stadium than the _Olympic_. That of 666-2/3 to a -degree of the meridian[46] I have generally found to agree well with the -actual distances of places in Spain, and it is a scale which we are -warranted in adopting, since it is sometimes used by Strabo on the -authority of Eratosthenes, and Pliny admits that no two persons ever -agreed in the Roman measures. - -Taking this scale, therefore (though a yet smaller would agree better), -I fix the first station, _Hasta_, at a small table hill, even now called -by the Spaniards _La Mesa de Asta_, lying N.N.W. of Xeres;[47] making -the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ sixteen miles, as in the -Itinerary, instead of eight, as altered by Florez: a number, by the -way, which scarcely agrees better with the actual distance from Port St. -Mary's to Xeres--at which latter place he fixes Hasta--than the sixteen -miles of the original. - -The next place mentioned in the Itinerary is _Ugia_; determined, as has -been already stated, to have stood where Las Cabezas de San Juan is now -situated; and the distance from the _Mesa de Asta_ to this place, -passing through _Nebrissa_ (Lebrija--omitted in the Itinerary, as not -being a convenient halting-place for the troops), agrees tolerably well -with that specified, viz., twenty-seven Roman miles. The remaining -distances, viz., twenty-four miles to _Orippo_ (Dos Hermanos), and nine -to _Hispalis_ (Seville), agree yet better, though still somewhat below -the scale I have adopted. - -The appearance of Seville, approaching it on the side of the _Marisma_, -is by no means imposing. Stretching as the city does along the bank of -the Guadalquivír, its least diameter meets the view; and, from its -standing on a perfect flat, the walls by which it is encircled conceal -the most part of the houses, and take off from the height of the hundred -spires of its churches--the lofty _Giralda_ being the only conspicuous -object that presents itself above them. - -The wide avenue which, after crossing the river _Guadaira_, leads up to -the city gate, is, however, prepossessing; a spacious botanical garden -is on the left hand, and, in advance of the city walls, are the -Amphitheatre, the Royal Snuff Manufactory, and several other handsome -public buildings. - -Seville is generally considered,--at all events by its inhabitants,--the -largest city of Spain. It is of an oval shape, two miles long, and one -and a quarter broad; and, washed by the Guadalquivír on the eastern -side, is enclosed on the others by a patched-up embattled wall, the work -of all ages and nations. - -The city is tolerably free from suburbs, excepting at the Carmona and -_Rosario_ gates on its western side; but numerous extramural convents, -hospitals, barracks, and other public edifices, are scattered about in -different directions, which, with the town of Triana, on the opposite -bank of the river, materially increase the size of the place, and swell -the amount of its population to at least 100,000 souls. - -Seville cannot be called a handsome city, for it contains but one -tolerable street; the houses, however, are lofty, and generally well -built, the shops good, and the lamps within sight of each other, which -is not usually the case in Spanish towns. Most of the houses in the -principal thoroughfares are built with an edging of flat roof -overlooking the street. This part of the house is called the _Azotea_, -and, with the lower orders, serves the manifold purposes of a dormitory -in summer, a place for washing and drying clothes in winter, and a -place of assignation at all seasons. - -In hot weather awnings are spread from these _azoteas_ across the -streets, rendering them delightfully cool and shady; the canvass -covering, fanned by the breeze, sending down a refreshing air, whilst it -serves at the same time as a shelter from the sun. Even in the most -sultry days of summer, I have never found the streets of Seville -_impracticable_. - -There are several spacious squares in various parts of the city; in the -largest, distinguished by the extraordinary, though, perhaps, not -_unsuitable_ name of _La Plaza de la Incarnacion_, the market is held. -This is abundantly supplied with bread, meat, fish, poultry, and all -sorts of vegetables and fruits, and is, perhaps, the cheapest in -Andalusia; it certainly is the cleanest. - -The _Alamedas_, of which there are two, are equally as well taken care -of as the market, though in point of beauty they are not quite deserving -of the praise which has been bestowed upon them. One is in the interior -of the city, and becomes only a place of general resort when the weather -is unsettled. The other more commonly frequented walk is between the -walls of the town and the Guadalquivír, extending nearly a mile along -the bank of the river, from the _Torre del Oro_ to the bridge of boats -communicating with Triana. It is well sheltered with trees, and -furnished with seats, and is indeed a most delightful and amusing -promenade, being nightly crowded with all descriptions of people, from -the grandee of the first class to the goatskin clad swineherd, who -visits the city for a _sombrero_ of the _ultima moda_, or a fresh supply -of _bacallao_. - -The carriage drive round the walk is generally thronged with equipages -of all sorts and ages, any one of which, shown as a _spectacle_ in -England, would most assuredly make the exhibitor's fortune. The _blazon_ -on the pannels, and venerable cocked hats and laced coats of the drivers -and attendants, bespeak them, nevertheless, to belong to _sons of -somebody_; and the wives and daughters of somebody seated therein, seem -not a little proud of possessing these indubitable proofs of the -antiquity of their houses. Few of these distinguished personages, -however, excepting such as labour under the infliction of gout, -rheumatism, or the indelible marks of old age, are satisfied to remain -quiet spectators of the gay scene; but, after driving once or twice -round the _paseo_ to see _who_ has arrived, alight, and join the flutter -of their fans, and, with grief I say it, their loud laugh and -conversation to the already over-powering din of the "promiscuous -multitude." - -This scene of gaiety is prolonged until long after the sun has ceased -to gild the mirror-like surface of the Guadalquivír. The walk, indeed, -is still in its most fashionable state of throng, when a tinkling bell, -announcing the elevation of the Host, marks the concluding ceremony of -the vesper service in a neighbouring church. At this signal the motley -crowd appears as if touched by the wand of an enchanter. Each devout -Romanist either reverentially bends the knee, or stands statue-like on -the spot where the homage-commanding sound first reached the ear. The -men take off their hats--the ladies drop their fans. The coachmen check -their hacks--the hacks hang down their heads--not a whisper is heard, -not an eye is raised. The bell sounds a second time, and animation -returns, the breast is marked with repeated crosses, the dust brushed -off the knees, "_conques_" innumerable take up the interrupted -conversation, and once more - - "Soft eyes look love to eyes which speak again." - -So ludicrously observant are the Spaniards of this ceremony, that, on -the ringing of the bell, I once remarked a water-carrier stop in the -midst of his sonorous cry, "_A...._" and devoutly uncovering his head, -and crossing himself, wait until the second tinkle permitted him again -to open his mouth; when, with most comical gravity, he finished the -wanting syllable "_gua!_ _Agua fres--ca!_" - -The Guadalquivír is about 200 yards wide at Seville, where it forms a -kind of basin, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons burthen. It is -so liable to be swollen by the freshes poured down from the mountains in -the upper part of its course, that a permanent bridge has never been -attempted; and the banks are so low, that the floods have frequently -reached to the very gates of the city. The influence of the tide is felt -some little distance above Seville, rendering the water of the river -unfit for general purposes. The water of the wells, on the other hand, -is considered unwholesome, so that the city is, in a great measure, -dependent for its supply of this most necessary article on an aqueduct, -that brings a stream from _Alcalà de Guadaira_, a distance of about nine -miles. - -The populous town of Triana is still worse off than Seville, for, as the -expedient of a leather pipe has not yet been thought of, the "essential -fluid" has to be carried across the river on men's or asses' backs, -rendering it a most expensive article of consumption; a circumstance -that accounts, in a great measure, for the very Egyptian complexion of -the inhabitants. - -The public buildings of Seville fully entitle the city to its boasted -title of the Western Capital of Spain. It contains no less than sixty -convents and nunneries, besides numerous other religious establishments -and hospitals. The Archiepiscopal Church is the largest in Spain,[48] -its dimensions being 450 feet by 260; and it is one of the most splendid -piles in the universe. The architecture of the exterior is heavy and -tasteless, so that one is but little prepared for the striking change -which meets the eye on drawing aside the ponderous leathern curtain that -closes the portal, and entering the vast vaulted interior. - -It is built in the gothic style, not of a florid kind, however, but -simple, aërial, and imposing. The colour of the free stone used in its -construction is a subdued white; the pavement is laid in squares of -black and white marble, and the stained glass windows, which are of -extreme beauty, shed a warm, variegated glow throughout the building, -that produces an effect well suited to its character. Indeed, no -cathedral that I have any where seen either presents a more striking -coup d'oeil, or draws forth, in a greater degree, that instinctive -feeling of devotion implanted in the human breast. The walls, too, are -not so disfigured with tawdry chapels, as those of most Roman Catholic -churches, and the few paintings with which they are decorated are _chef -d'oeuvres_ of the best Spanish masters. - -One modern painting has, however, been admitted to the collection, -rather, I should think, out of compliment to the ladies of Seville, than -on account of its own merit. It represents two maidens of this saintly -city, who, "_mucho tiempo hay_,"[49] to use our conductor's expression, -having been accused of some heretical practices, were exposed to be -devoured by a ferocious lion. The gallant sovereign of the woods and -forests, instead, however, of making a meal of these tempting morsels of -human flesh and imagined frailty, "_se echó à sus pies_," and began -caressing them after his feline fashion, to the great astonishment of -all beholders! This miraculous want of appetite on the part of the lion, -making the innocence of the damsels evident, led, of course, to their -liberation, and their names are now enrolled upon the long list of -saints of Seville. - -The tower of the cathedral, commonly called _La Giralda_, from a -colossal statue of _Faith_, at its summit, which, with strange -inconsistency of character, wheels about at every change of wind, is by -no means a handsome structure. It was built by the Moors, about 250 -years before the city was captured by San Fernando, and originally was -only 280 feet in height; but a belfry has since been added, which makes -it altogether 364 feet high. The tower is fifty feet square, and the -ascent is effected by an inclined plane, by means of which, some queen -of Spain is rumoured to have ridden on horseback to the gallery under -the belfry. - -The view from the summit of the tower fully repays one, even for the -labour of ascending it on foot, and I am not quite sure but that the -inclined plane rather increases than lessens the fatigue of mounting. -From hence alone can a correct idea be formed of the size and splendour -of Seville. The eye, from this elevation, embraces the whole extent of -the city, its long narrow streets, wide circuit of walls, its gateways, -magnificent public buildings, and spacious plazas, its verdant -orangeries, and its house-top flower-gardens. Beyond the busy city, a -fruitful plain extends for several miles in every direction; on one side -bearing luxuriant crops of corn and olives, on the other, giving pasture -to countless herds of cattle; the lovely Guadalquivír winding through -and fertilizing the whole. - -The Archiepiscopal palace occupies one side of a small square, that is -immediately under the _Giralda_; the façade of this building is -handsome, but we had not an opportunity of seeing the interior, as its -worthy occupier was unwell. Near the cathedral, but on the opposite side -to the Archbishop's residence, is the _Lonja_; a splendid edifice, which -(as the name implies) was originally built for an exchange. But, though -the lower suites of apartments are still set apart for the use of the -merchants, the building is so inconveniently situated, that no -commercial business is transacted there, and the whole of the upper -story has been fitted up as a repository for the "American archives." -These records are most voluminous, and are preserved with as much care, -and ticketed with as great regularity, as if Spain shortly intended to -resume the sovereignty over her former vast transatlantic possessions. - -As a mark of especial favour, the tip of my little finger was permitted -to rest upon the edge of the first letter written from the _other -world_; the keeper of the archives requesting me, at the same time, not -to press too hard upon the valuable MS., and assuring us, that most -persons were obliged to be satisfied with looking at the precious -document bearing the signature of the adventurous Columbus, in its glass -case. - -The whole of the shelves, drawers, &c., are of cedar; a wood which has -the property of preserving the papers committed to their charge from all -descriptions of insects. The floors are laid in chequers of red and blue -marble, and the grand staircase is composed of the same, which is highly -polished and remarkably handsome. One of the apartments of the vast -quadrangle contains two original paintings of Columbus and Hernan -Cortes. - -A little removed from the _Lonja_, is the _Alcazar_, or Royal Palace. -This is kept up in a kind of half-dress state, and has a governor -appointed to its peculiar charge, who usually resides within its -precincts. It is built in the Moorish style, and is generally supposed -to have been the work of Moorish hands, though raised only--so at least -a Gothic inscription on its walls is said to state--by "the puissant -King of Castile and Leon, Don Pedro." - -There is probably some little exaggeration in this, and, in point of -fact, perhaps, the mighty monarch only repaired and added to the palace -of the Moorish kings, which the neglect of a hundred years had, in his -time, rendered uninhabitable. It is a very inferior piece of workmanship -to the Alhambra, but, nevertheless, contains much to admire, -particularly the ceilings of the apartments (of which there are upwards -of seventy), and the walls of one of the courts. - -The different towers command very fine views over the city and adjacent -country, and the gardens are delightful, though of but small extent. The -walks are laid with tiles, between which little tubes are introduced -vertically, that communicate with waterpipes underneath, and, by merely -turning a screw, the whole of the valves of these tubes are -simultaneously opened, and each shoots forth a diminutive stream of -water. This plan was adopted, as being an improvement on the tedious -method usually practised in watering gardens. It affords the facetiously -disposed a glorious opportunity of inflicting a practical joke upon -unwary visiters to the Alcazar; who, conducted to the garden, and then -and there seduced, out of mere politeness, to join in the complaint -expressed of a want of rain, suddenly find themselves _over_ a heavy -shower, and under the necessity of laughing at a piece of wit from which -there is no possibility of escape. - -The _Casa Pilata_ is another of the sights of Seville. It is a private -house, said to be built on the exact model of that of the Roman governor -of Jerusalem. It is fitted up with much taste, but its chief beauty -consists in a profusion of glazed tiles, which give it actual coolness, -as well as a refreshing look. - -Most of the other subjects worthy of the traveller's notice are situated -without the walls of the city. The first in order, issuing from the -Xeres gate, is the _Plaza de los Toros_, or amphitheatre, an immense -circus, one half built of stone, and the other half of wood, and capable -of accommodating 14,000 persons. The next remarkable object is the -_Royal Tobacco Manufactory_, (the term seems rather absurd to English -ears,) a huge edifice, so strongly built, and jealously defended by -walls and ditches, as to appear rather a detached fort, or citadel, -raised to overawe the turbulent city, than an establishment for -peacefully grinding tobacco leaves into snuff, and rolling them into -cigars. The manufactory employs 5000 persons, and of this number 2600 -are occupied solely in making cigars. But, as I have elsewhere shown, -even with the assistance of the Royal Manufactory lately established at -Malaga, the supply of _lawful_ cigars is not equal to one-tenth part of -the consumption of the country. - -The demand for snuff may probably be fully met by the Royal Manufactory; -for the Spaniards are not great consumers of tobacco through the medium -of the nose; and most of the snuffs prepared at Seville are extremely -pungent, so that "a little goes a great way." There is a coarse kind, -however, called, I think, "Spanish bran," which is much esteemed by -_connoisseurs_. - -The Royal Cannon Foundry is in the vicinity of the Tobacco Manufactory, -and though this establishment for furnishing the means of consuming -powder is not in such activity as its neighbour employed in supplying -food for smoke, yet it is in equally good order, and, on the whole, is a -very creditable national establishment. The brass pieces made here are -remarkably handsome, and very correctly bored, but they want the -lightness and finish of our guns--qualities in which English artillery -excels all others. Two of the "monster mortars," cast by the French for -the siege of Cadiz, are still preserved here. - -The Cavalry Barracks, Royal Saltpetre Manufactory, Military Hospital, -and various other edifices, planned on a scale proportioned to Spain's -_former_ greatness, together with numerous convents, equally -disproportioned to her present wants, follow in rapid succession in -completing the circuit of the walls. The most interesting amongst the -religious houses is a convent of Capuchins, situated near the Cordoba -gate. It contains twenty-five splendid paintings by Murillo, "any one of -which," as a modern writer has justly remarked, "would suffice to render -a man immortal." - -Murillo was certainly a perfect master of his art. His style is -peculiar, and in his early productions there is a coldness and formality -that partake of the school of Velasquez; but the works of his maturer -age are distinguished by a boldness of outline, a gracefulness of -grouping, and a depth and softness of colouring, which entitle him to -rank with Rubens and Correggio. - -The paintings of Murillo, though met with in all the best collections of -Europe, where they take their place amongst the works of the first -masters, are, nevertheless, valued by foreigners rather on account of -their rarity than of their execution. The fact is, those of his -paintings which have left Spain are nearly all devoted to the same -subject--the Madonna and Child; and, even in that, offer but little -variety either in the disposition, or in the colouring of the figures. -The Spanish artist is, consequently, accused of want of genius and -self-plagiarism. Nor does Murillo receive due credit for the pains he -took in finishing his paintings; for, amongst those of his works which -have found their way into foreign collections, there are few which have -not received more or less damage, either in the transport from Spain, or -by subsequent neglect; and, in many instances, the attempts made to -restore them by cleaning or retouching have inflicted a yet more severe -injury upon them. - -Those persons only, therefore, who have visited Spain, and, above all, -Murillo's native city--Seville--can fully appreciate the merits of that -wonderful artist. The vast number of master-pieces which he has there -left behind him, and the variety of subjects they embrace, sufficiently -prove, however, that, whilst in versatility of talent he has been -equalled by few, in point of _industry_ he almost stands without a -rival. - -Besides the twenty-five paintings in the Capuchin convent, already -noticed, the _Hóspital de la Caridad_ contains several of Murillo's -master-pieces; two, in particular, are deserving of notice--the subjects -are, the miracle of the loaves and fishes, and Moses striking the rock. -The great size of these two paintings saved them from a journey to -Paris, but the French, in their zeal for the encouragement of the fine -arts, stripped the chapel of all the other works of Murillo that -enriched it--only a few of which were restored at the peace of 1815. - -Other paintings of the Spanish Rafael are to be found in the various -churches of Seville, and every private collector (of whom the city -contains many,) prides himself on being the possessor of at least one -_original_ of his illustrious fellow-citizen. - -The theatre of Seville has ever held a comparatively distinguished place -in the dramatic annals of Spain; and, lamentable as is the condition to -which the national stage has been reduced, the capital of Andalusia may -still be considered as one of the most _playgoing_ places in the -kingdom. This may, perhaps, partly be accounted for by the number of -dramatic authors to whom the city has given birth, partly by the -peculiar disposition of the inhabitants of the province, who are deeper -tinged with romance, and have more imagination than the rest of the -natives of the Peninsula. - -The deplorable atrophy under which the drama has of late years been -languishing in every part of Europe[50] had, aided by various -predisposing circumstances, long been undermining the at no-time very -robust constitution of the Spanish theatre; which, like a condemned -criminal, existed only from day to day, at the will and pleasure of a -despotic sovereign; and had, moreover, constantly to combat the -hostility of the priesthood: a bigoted race, prone at all times to -discourage an art, which, by enlarging the understandings of the -community, tended to diminish the respect with which their own profane -melo-dramatic mysteries were regarded. The priests, in fact, have always -been, and ever will be, averse to their flock being fleeced by any other -shears than their own. - -Considering, therefore, the obstacles which the Spanish theatre has had -to contend against, obstacles which were yet more formidable in that -country in times past than they are at the present day, it cannot but be -admitted that the drama was cultivated in Spain with a degree of success -which could little have been expected. - -Our own early dramatists, indeed, drew largely from the prolific sources -opened by Lope de Vega, Calderon, and other Spanish writers of the -sixteenth century; and, perhaps, to the example set by those authors is -our stage indebted for its release from the thraldom in which others -are yet held, by a preposterous, though _classic_, adherence to the -preservation of the unities. - -The drama (in the strict sense of the term) never, however, became a -popular amusement with the Spaniards generally. The legal disabilities -imposed upon the performers by the intrigues of the Romish church -brought the profession of an actor into disrepute, and, as a natural -consequence, checked the progress of the histrionic art. The stage had -no door opening to preferment, and the knight of the buskin (to whom, by -the way, the _Don_ was interdicted), though endowed with the talents of -a Talma or a Kemble, of a Liston or a Potier, ranked below the lowest of -the train of bullfighters, and could never expect to amass a fortune, or -hope to be considered otherwise than as a "diverting vagabond." A -Spanish actress was yet more discouragingly circumstanced, as, however -irreproachable her character, she held only the same grade in society as -the frail Ciprian whose beauty gained her livelihood. - -Labouring under such disadvantages, it is not surprising, therefore, -that Thalia and Euterpe should eventually have been driven from the -Spanish stage, and a licentious monster--the illegitimate offspring of -Comus and Impudicitia--have been crowned with the palm-wreath snatched -from the brows of the immortal Parnassides. - -The modern Spanish dramatic authors--if it be not profanation so to call -them--pandering to the vitiated taste of the day, indulge in all the -licence of Aristophanes, without varnishing their obscenities with the -brilliancy of his wit. They write, in fact, for auditors, who, whilst -endowed with a quick perception of the ridiculous, are too ignorant to -discriminate between right and wrong, and cannot perceive where -legitimate satire ends, and libertinism commences; who, possessing a -vast stock of native wit, inherit with it a coarse, degenerate taste. -The human frailties of the monastic orders are, consequently, the -favourite subjects now held up to ridicule on the stage, as if to prove -the truth of Voltaire's lines, - - _"Les prêtres ne sont point ce qu'un vain peuple pense, - _Notre credulité fait toute leur science_;"_ - -and no modern _saynete_[51] is considered perfect, unless some member of -their church is brought forward to serve as a recipient for the ribald -jokes of an Andalusian _majo_, or to become the amatory dupe of an -intriguing _graciosa_. - -These pieces are not suffered to appear in print; or rather, I should -say, perhaps, would not _sell_ if they were printed, for the press of -the day has far exceeded the bounds of decorum in giving light to many -of the somewhat less objectionable productions of _Sotomayor_, -_Comella_, and other prolific scribblers of Vaudevilles. The only modern -dramatic writers who have been at all successful in obtaining public -favour on worthier grounds, are _Iriate_, _Martinez de la Rosa_, and -_Moratin_, but their writings are by no means numerous. - -The plays of the last-named (who is considered the Terence of Spain) are -always well received at Seville, where the dramatic taste is somewhat -more refined than in the minor provincial towns. They are full of -incident, without being encumbered with plot, like those of the old -Spanish school; and the dialogue is natural and sprightly, without -falling into licentiousness or vulgarity. This author's translation of -Shakspeare's Hamlet is lamentably weak, however, for his language is not -sufficiently elevated for tragedy. To Molière he has done more justice. - -The Spanish language is remarkably well adapted to the stage, being not -less melodious than emphatic and dignified; and there is a raciness -about it well suited to comedy, though, on the whole, I should say, it -is better adapted for tragedy. The national taste is, however, in favour -of comedy, which, besides being more congenial to the character of the -people, speaks more intelligibly to their uncultivated understandings. -And, indeed, it must be confessed, that but for the infinite superiority -of the language, the long speeches of the heroes of Spanish tragedy -would be yet more wearying to listen to, than even the jingling, rhymed -declamations of the French drama. - -It is not surprising, therefore, that the impatient _Andaluzes_,--whose -whole thoughts are bent upon the coming Bolero and laughter-causing -farce,--should complain of the interminable "_platicas importunas_" of -their tragedies, and even of their _serious_ comedies; especially since -they are delivered in a diction which to the lower orders is almost -unintelligible, the dialogue being generally carried on in the second -person plural, _vos_: a style which is never now heard in common -parlance, and is, therefore, quite unnatural to them. - -I will, however, draw the curtain upon Spanish tragedy, and bring the -graceful _Baylarinas_ upon the stage; at the first click of whose -castañets, whilst even yet behind the scenes, every bright eye sparkles -with animation, and every tongue is silenced. - -The Bolero, which is the favourite national dance, admits of great -variety as well of figures as of movements, for it may be executed by -any number of persons, though two or four are generally preferred. It is -a purified kind of _Fandango_, and, when danced by Spaniards, is as -graceful and pleasing an exhibition as can be imagined. It is altogether -divested of those dervish-like gyrations, and other wonderful displays -of limbs and under-petticoats, that are so much the vogue on the boards -of London and Paris, and on which, in fact, the reputation of a -_Ballerina_ seems to depend. In Spain the taste in dancing has not yet -reached this pitch of refinement; for, even in the _Cachucha_, when the -dancer turns her back upon the spectators, a Spanish lady deems it -necessary to turn her face from the stage. - -The castañets, though furnishing but little to the entertainment in the -way of music, afford the performers the means of displaying their -figures to advantage; and are yet further useful, by giving employment -to the hands and arms; which, with most dancers, public as well as -private, are generally found to be very much in the way. - -There are other dances of a less _modest_ character than the _Bolero_, -which are performed at the minor theatres; but it may be said of Spanish -public dancing generally, that it is light, spirited, and _poetic_, and -admits of the display of considerable grace without being _indecent_. - -Although of all modern languages--that of dulcet Italy alone -excepted--the Spanish is the best adapted to song, yet the Spaniards -have little or no relish for musical entertainments. The truth is, they -are not a musical nation. In expressing this opinion, I am aware that I -declare war against a host of preconceived notions; but in proof of my -assertion I will ask, what country possesses so little national music as -Spain? Has a single _known_ opera ever been produced there? Is not her -church music all borrowed? Is not the trifling guitar the only -instrument the Spaniard is really master of? Is not the _Sostenuto_ -bellow of the _arriero_ almost the only approach to melody that the -peasant ever attempts? - -Spanish music consists of a few simple airs, which are probably -heir-looms of the Saracens; and a medley of _Boleros_, that may be -considered mere variations of one tune. Neither their vocal nor -instrumental performances ever reach beyond mediocrity, and in concert -they invariably sing and play _a faire casser la tête_. - -A fine climate and a gregarious disposition lead the peasantry to -assemble nightly, and amuse themselves by dancing and singing to the -monotonous thrumming of a cracked guitar; and this habit has earned for -the nation the character of being musical--a character to which the -Spaniards are little better entitled than the _Tom Tom_-loving black -_apprentices_ of our West India islands. - -There are exceptions to every rule, and I willingly admit that I have -heard an opera of Rossini very well performed by Spanish "_artists_." -But that they do not _pride themselves_ on being a musical nation is -evident from their always preferring Italian music to their own, though -they like to sing Spanish words to an Italian opera. - -The Theatre is a place of fashionable resort at Seville. It fills up a -vacuum between the Paseo and the Tertulia. And when the times are -sufficiently quiet to warrant the outlay, a sufficient sum is subscribed -to bribe a second-rate Italian company to expose their melodious throats -to the baneful influence of the sea breezes. The house is large and -rather tastily decorated, but so ill-shaped that, unless one is close to -the stage, not a word can be heard; and if there, the prompter's voice -completely drowns those of the performers. The fall of the curtain at -the conclusion of the _Bolero_ is generally the signal for the _beau -monde_ to retire, leaving the highly seasoned _Saynete_ to the enjoyment -of the "_gente baja y desreglada_."[52] - -This breaking up is not the least amusing part of the play. The -antediluvian carriages are again put in requisition; and now, besides -the cocked-hatted attendants, each vehicle is accompanied by two or more -torch-bearers on foot; so that the blaze of light on first issuing from -the Theatre is most dazzling and astounding,--astounding, because it is -only on walking into the gutter, or over a heap of filth in the first -cross street one has occasion to enter, that the want of lamps in these -minor avenues renders the utility of this extraordinary illumination -apparent. - -Each carriage, after "taking up," moves majestically off, its -torch-bearers running ahead to show the way, scattering long strings of -sparks, like comets' tails, amongst the humble pedestrians. - -The Tertulias commence after the families have supped at their -respective houses, that is to say, at about eleven o'clock; and are -generally kept up until a late hour. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - SOCIETY OF SEVILLE--SPANISH WOMEN--FAULTS OF EDUCATION--EVILS OF - EARLY MARRIAGES, AND MARRIAGES DE CONVENANCE--ENVIRONS OF - SEVILLE--TRIANA--SAN JUAN DE ALFARACHE--SANTI PONCE--RUINS OF - ITALICA--ITALICA NOT SO ANCIENT A CITY AS HISPALIS--YOUNG PIGS AND - THE MUSES--DEPARTURE FROM SEVILLE--THE MARQUES DE LAS - AMARILLAS--WEAKNESS, DECEIT, AND INJUSTICE OF THE LATE KING OF - SPAIN--ALCALA DE GUADAIRA--UTRERA--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRATEGICAL - IMPORTANCE OF THIS TOWN--MORON--MILITARY OPERATIONS OF - RIEGO--APATHY OF THE SERRANOS DURING THE CIVIL WAR--OLBERA--REMARKS - ON THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS. - - -The society of Seville is divided into nearly as many circles as there -are degrees in the Mohammedans paradise. In former days, the bounds of -each were marked with _heraldic_ precision, and those of the innermost -were guarded as jealously from trespass as the precincts of a royal -forest, but of late years politics have materially injured the fences. -The fine edged bridge of _Sirat_ is no longer difficult of passage, and -a foreigner, in especial, provided some mufti of the Aristocracy but -holds out his hand to him, may reach the seventh heaven without the -slightest chance of stumbling over his pedigree. - -The English, above all other foreigners, are favourably received at -Seville, for the nobles of the South of Spain, not being so much under -court influence as those of the provinces lying nearer the capital, are -by no means distinguished for their love of _absolutism_. With some few, -indeed, the want of courtly sunshine has engendered excessive -liberalism; but the nobles of Andalusia generally may be considered as -favourably disposed towards a limited monarchy--that is, are of -moderate, or what they term _English_, politics. - -Of persons of such a political bias is the first circle of the society -of Seville composed, and it is, perhaps, in every respect, the best in -the kingdom. It is adorned by many men of highly cultivated talents, and -much theoretical information, who, with a sincere love of country at -their hearts, are yet not arrogantly blind to the faults of its former -and present institutions; and who, removed to a certain extent from the -baneful influence of a corrupt court, are proportionably free from the -demoralising vices which distinguish the society of the upper classes in -the capital. - -The ladies of the _exclusive_ circle are, it must needs be confessed, -deficient in education: but they possess great natural abilities, a -wonderful flow of language, and--excepting that they will pitch their -voices so high--peculiarly fascinating manners. - -The morals of Spanish women have usually been commented upon with -unsparing severity; it strikes me, however, that the moral _principle_ -is as strong in them as in the natives of any other country or climate. -The constancy of Spanish women, when once their affections have been -placed on any object, is, indeed, proverbial, and if they are but too -frequently faithless to the marriage vow, the source of corruption may -be traced, _first_, to the lamentable religious education they -receive--since the demoralizing doctrines of the efficacy of penance and -absolution in the remission of sins furnish them at all times with a -ready palliative; and, _secondly_, to the habit of contracting early -marriages, and, especially, _marriages de convenance_, by which, in -their anxiety to see their daughters well established, parents--and -above all Spanish parents--are apt to sacrifice, not only their -children's happiness, but their honour. - -Of all the evils under which Spanish society labours, this last is the -most serious as well as most apparent. A marriage of this kind, in nine -cases out of ten, tends to demorality. It is followed by immediate -neglect on the part of the husband, whose affections were already placed -elsewhere when he gave his hand at the altar; and is soon regarded by -the wife merely as a civil compact, to which the usages of society -oblige her to subscribe. With _her_, however, this state of things had -not been anticipated. The innate, all-powerful feeling, _love_, had, up -to this period, lain dormant within her breast--for in Spain, if the -extremely early age at which females marry did not of itself warrant -this supposition, the little intercourse which, under any circumstances, -an unmarried woman (of the upper classes of society) has with the world, -naturally leads to the conclusion that her affections had not previously -been engaged; she expects, therefore, to receive from her husband the -same boundless affection that her inexperienced heart is disposed to -bestow on him;--and what is the inevitable consequence? Disappointed in -her cherished hope of occupying the first place in her husband's -affections, her innocence is tarnished at the very outset, by thus -acquiring the knowledge of his turpitude; she turns from him with -disgust; and her better feelings, seared by jealousy and wounded pride, -seeks out some other object on whom to bestow the love slighted by him, -who pledged himself to cherish it. - -Thrown thus at an early age upon the world, without the least experience -in its ways, with strong passions to lead, and evil examples to seduce -her, is it surprising that a Spanish wife should wander from the path of -virtue, and that she should hold constancy to her lover more sacred than -fidelity to a husband who quietly submits to see another possess her -affections? - -The understanding once established, however, that jealousy is not to -disturb the ménage, the parties live together with all the outward -appearances of mutual esteem, and inflict the history of their private -bickerings only upon their favoured friends. - -The Spaniards of all classes have great conversational powers, but even -those of the upper are sadly deficient in general information. Their -knowledge of other nations is picked up entirely from books, and those -books mostly old ones; for few works are now written in their own -language, and still fewer are translated from those of other countries; -so that what little knowledge of mankind they possess is of the last -century. - -Cards help out the conversation at the Tertulias of the first circle. -Dancing, forfeits, and other puerile games, are the resources of the -rest. Balls and suppers are _funciones_ reserved for great occasions, -and dinner parties are of equally rare occurrence. - -In the entertainments of the nobility, the French style prevails even to -the wines, but the national dish, the _olla_, generally serves as a -prelude, and may be considered the "_piece de resistance_" of the -interminable dinner. Toothpicks (!!) and coffee are handed round, and -the party breaks up, to seek in the _siesta_ renewed powers of -digestion. - -To those, however, who think exercise more conducive to health, the -environs of Seville hold out plenty of attractions; and, if the weather -be too hot for either walking or riding, the city contains hackney -coaches and _calesas_ without number, by means of which (most of the -roads in the vicinity being level) the various interesting points may be -reached without difficulty or inconvenience. - -The places most deserving of a visit in the immediate environs of -Seville, are the villages of _San Juan de Alfarache_ and _Santi Ponce_; -near the latter of which are the ruins of Italica. - -Both these places are situated on the right bank of the Guadalquivír; -the former, about three miles below Seville, the latter a little more -distant, up the stream. The road to both traverses the long town of -Triana, which contains nothing worthy of observation but a sombre gothic -edifice, where the high altar of Popish bigotry, the Inquisition, was -first raised in the Spanish dominions. It has long, however, been -converted to another purpose, never, let us hope, to be again applied to -that which for so many ages disgraced Christianity. - -By many Triana is supposed to be the Osset of Pliny, but I think without -sufficient reason, as it does not seem probable that a place merely -divided from Seville by a narrow river should have been distinguished by -him as a distinct city. The words of Pliny, "_ex adverso oppidum -Osset_," imply certainly that Osset stood on the opposite bank of the -river to Hispalis, but not that it was situated _immediately opposite_, -as some authors have translated it. It is yet more evident that Alcalà -de Guadaira cannot be Osset, as supposed by Harduin, since that town is -on the _same_ side of the Guadalquivír as Seville. - -Florez imagines Osset to have been where San Juan de Alfarache now -stands,[53] near which village traces of an ancient city have been -discovered; and the position occupied by an old Moorish castle, on the -edge of a high cliff, impending over the river, and commanding its -navigation, seems clearly to indicate the site of a Roman station, since -the Saracens usually erected their castles upon the foundations of the -dilapidated fortresses of their predecessors. The village of San Juan de -Alfarache stands at the foot of the before-mentioned cliff, compressed -between it and the Guadalquivír; which river, making a wide sweep to the -north on leaving Seville, here first reaches the roots of the chain of -hills bounding the extensive plain through which it winds its way to the -sea, and is by them turned back into its original direction. - -Of the Moorish fortress little now remains but the foundation walls; the -stones of the superstructure having probably been used to build the -church and convent that now occupy the plateau of the hill. The view -from thence is quite enchanting, embracing a long perspective of the -meandering Guadalquivír and its verdant plain, the whole extent of the -shining city, and the distant blue outline of the Ronda mountains. - -The hills rising at the back of the convent are thickly covered with -olive trees, the fruit of which is the most esteemed of all Spain: and, -indeed, those who have eaten them on the spot, if they like the flavour -of olive rather than of salt and water, would say they are the best in -the world. The fruit is suffered to hang upon the tree until it has -attained its full size, and consequently will not bear a long journey. -For the same reason, it will not keep any length of time, as the salt in -which it is preserved cannot penetrate to a sufficient depth in its oily -flesh to secure it from decay. Let no one say, however, that he dislikes -_olives_, until he has been to San Juan de Alfarache. - -Retracing our steps some way towards Seville, we reach the great road -leading from that city into Portugal by way of Badajoz; and, continuing -along the plain for about five miles, we arrive at the priory of Santi -Ponce, situated on the margin of the Guadalquivír, and close to the -ruins of Italica. So complete has been the destruction of this once -celebrated city, the birth-place of three Roman Emperors, that, but for -the vestiges of its spacious amphitheatre, one would be inclined to -doubt whether any town could possibly have stood upon the spot; the more -so as the vicinity of Seville seems, at first sight, to render it -improbable that two such large cities would have been built within so -short a distance of each other. - -Opinions on the subject of the relative antiquity of these two cities -are, however, very various; for, whilst some Spaniards are to be found, -who maintain that Hispalis was founded long before Italica, and some -who, declaring, on the other hand, that the two cities never existed -together, insist on calling Italica, _Sevilla la Vieja_;[54] others -there are who suppose that the two cities flourished contemporaneously -for a considerable period, and that Hispalis (the more modern of the -two) eventually caused the other's destruction. - -This last hypothesis might readily be received, since, from the -influence of the tide being felt at Seville and not at Santi Ponce, the -situation of the former is so much more favourable for trade than that -of the latter; but that, setting aside the traditionary authority of -Seville having been founded by _Hispalis_, one of the companions of -Hercules, we have the testimony of several writers to prove that -Hispalis was a place of consequence when Italica must have been yet in -its infancy. For the antiquity of this latter is never carried further -back than the 144th Olympiad, i.e. 200 B.C. Now, Hispalis is mentioned -by Hirtius, at no very great period after that date, as a city of great -importance; whereas, Italica is noticed by him (proving it to have been -a _distinct_ place) merely as a walled town in the vicinity.[55] - -The two places are again mentioned separately by Pliny; the one, -however, as a large city, giving its name to a vast extent of -country--the _Conventus Hispalensis_--the other as one of the towns -within the limits of that city's jurisdiction. - -The foundation of Italica being fixed, therefore, about two hundred -years before the Christian era, and attributed to the veteran soldiers -of P. C. Scipio; that is to say, immediately after the expulsion of the -Carthagenians from the country; it may naturally be concluded that the -Romans, who had not come to Spain merely to drive out their rivals, -would, with their usual foresight, have planted a colony of their own -people to overawe the _principal city_ of a country they intended to -bring under subjection; and hence, that Seville existed long before -Italica was founded. - -The amphitheatre, which alone remains to prove the former grandeur of -Italica, is of a wide oval shape. The dimensions of its arena are 270 -feet in its greatest diameter, 190 in its least. It rests partly against -a hill, a circumstance that has tended materially to save what little -remains of it from destruction; but, nevertheless, only nine tiers of -seats have offered a successful resistance to the encroachments of the -plough. Few of the vomitorios can be traced, but it would appear that -there were sixteen. Some of the caverns in which the wild beasts were -confined are in tolerable preservation. - -From the ruined amphitheatre we were conducted to a kind of pound, -enclosed by a high mud wall, and secured by a stout gate, wherein we -were informed other reliques of Italica were preserved. There was some -little delay in obtaining the key of this _museo_, the _custodio_ being -at his _siesta_; and, hearing the grunting of pigs within, we began to -doubt whether it could contain any thing worth detaining us under a -broiling sun to see. Unwilling, however, to be disappointed, we -clambered with some little difficulty to the top of the wall, and, -_horresco referens!_ beheld an old sow rubbing her back against that of -the Emperor Hadrian, whilst the profane snouts of her young progeny were -grubbing at the tesselated cheeks of Clio and Urania, the only two of -the immortal Nine whose features could be distinctly traced in an -elaborate mosaic pavement that covered the greater part of the court. - -Several fragments of statues were strewed about; but all were in too -mutilated a state to excite the least interest. The feeling with which -we contemplated the beautiful, outraged pavement, was one of unmitigated -disgust; for the workmanship of such parts of it as remained intact was -of the most delicate description, the stones not being more than one -fifth of an inch square, and, as far as we could judge, put together so -as to form a picture of great merit. I fear that this valuable specimen -of the art has long since been altogether lost, for, at the time of -which I write, the stones were lying in heaps about the yard, and the -pavement seemed likely to be subjected to a continuance of the mining -operations of the "swinish multitude," as well as to exposure to the -destructive ravages of the elements. - -I could not refrain from expostulating with the owner of the piggery -(when he at length made his appearance) at this, in the words of Don -Quijote, _puerco y extraordinario abuso_. He was a wag, however, and -answered my "Why do you keep your pigs here?" precisely in the words -that an Irish peasant replied to a very similar question, viz., "But am -I to have the company of the pig?" put to him by a friend of mine, who -had a billet for a night's lodging on his cabin: to wit, "_No hay toda -comodidad_?" "Isn't there every convey'nance?" - -We then attempted to persuade him that the pigs being young and -inexperienced would probably kill themselves by swallowing the little -square stones piled up against the walls, when the supply of Indian corn -failed them. "No, Señor," he replied; "_el Puerco es un animal que tiene -mas sesos que una casa_." "The hog is an animal that has more (sesos) -brains (or bricks) than a house." And, indeed, the discrimination of the -animal is wonderful, for, whilst we were yet arguing the case, one of -the little brutes grubbed up the entire left cheek of Calliope, to get -at a grain of corn that had fallen into one of the numerous crow's feet -with which unsparing Time had furrowed the Muse's animated countenance. -Without further observation, therefore, we abandoned the chaste -daughters of Mnemosyne to their ignominious fate, remounted our horses, -and bent our steps homewards. - -The foreigner who visits Seville, under any circumstances, cannot but -find it a most delightful place, and our short sojourn at it was -rendered particularly agreeable by the kindness and hospitality of the -_Marques de las Amarillas_, who, independent of the pleasure it at all -times affords him to show his regard for the English, whom he considers -as his old brothers in arms, was pleased to express peculiar -gratification at having an opportunity of evincing his sense of some -trifling attentions that it had been in my power to pay his only son, -when, as well as himself, driven by political persecution to seek a -refuge within the walls of Gibraltar. - -The life of this distinguished nobleman, now Duke of Ahumado, has been -singularly varied by the smiles and frowns of fortune, and furnishes a -melancholy proof of the little that can be effected by talents, however -exalted, and patriotism, however pure, in a country writhing, like -Spain, under the combined torments of religious and political -revolution. For, the more sincere a lover of his country he who puts -himself forward, _having aught to lose_, may be, the more he becomes an -object of distrust and envy to _the many_, who seek in change but their -own aggrandizement. To him who would take the helm of affairs in times -of revolution, an unscrupulous conscience is yet more necessary than the -possession of extraordinary talents. - -The Marques de las Amarillas, well known in the "Peninsular War" as -General Giron, was appointed minister at war in the first cabinet formed -by Ferdinand VII. after he had sworn to the Constitution. A sincere -lover of rational liberty, and a strong advocate for a mixed form of -government, the Marques, himself a soldier, saw the danger of permitting -the very existence of the government to be at the mercy of the -undisciplined rabble army, that, seduced by its democratic leaders for -their own private ends, had effected the revolution; and had projected a -plan for its partial reduction and entire reorganization. - -The _Exaltados_, however, fearful lest the establishment of a _rational_ -form of government should result from a project which certainly would -have had the effect of allaying the existing agitation, accused the -Marques of a plot to subvert the constitution, and restore Ferdinand to -a despotic throne; and he was obliged to save himself from the impending -danger by a rapid flight, and to take refuge within the walls of -Gibraltar. There he remained during the period of misrule that preceded -the invasion of the country by the Duc d'Angoulême in 1823; suffering, -during the feeble struggle that ensued, from the most painfully -conflicting feelings that could possibly enter a patriot's breast. For, -aware that his unhappy country had but the sad alternative of a -continuance in anarchy and misery, or of bending the neck to foreign -dictation, and receiving back the cast-off yoke of a despot, he could -take no active part in a struggle which, end as it would, was fraught -with mischief to his native land. - -It ended, as he had always foreseen, in the restoration of the -despicable monarch, who possessed neither the courage to draw the sword -in defence of what he conceived to be his _rights_, nor the virtue to -adhere to the word pledged to his people; who by his contemptible -intrigues exposed, and by his vacillating plans sacrificed, his most -devoted adherents; who with his dying breath bequeathed the scourge of -civil war to his wretched country; whose very existence, in fine, was as -hurtful to Spain, as is the odour of the upas-tree to the incautious -traveller who rests beneath its shade. - -The contemptible Ferdinand, restored to his throne, forbade the _Marques -de las Amarillas_ to present himself in the capital--the crime of having -held office in a constitutional cabinet being considered quite -sufficient to warrant the infliction of such a punishment. Some ten -years afterwards, however, he was, through the influence of his -relatives, the Dukes of Baylen and Infantado, appointed captain-general -of Andalusia, and on the death of Ferdinand was called to Madrid, to -form one of the Council of Regency. - -He again held a distinguished post in the Torreno administration, and -again fell under the displeasure of the anarchists--his talents had less -influence than the halbert of Serjeant Gomez. - -These are not merely "_cosas de España_," however, but have been, and -will be, those of every country where the hydra, democracy, is -cherished. God grant that our own may be preserved from the many-headed -monster! - -We quitted Seville only "upon compulsion" (our leave of absence being -limited), making choice of a road which, though, by visiting Moron and -Ronda, it proceeds rather circuitously to Gibraltar, traverses a more -romantic and picturesque portion of the Serranía than any other. The -most direct of the numerous roads that offer themselves between Seville -and the British fortress, is by way of Dos Hermanos, Coronil, Ubrique, -and Ximena. - -The first place lying upon the road we selected is Alcalà de Guadaira. -This town is distant about eight miles from Seville (though generally -marked much less on the maps), and is the first post station on the -great road from Seville to Madrid. - -For the first five miles from Seville the road traverses a gently -undulated country, that is chiefly planted with corn; but, on drawing -near Alcalà, the features of the ground become more strongly marked, and -are clothed with olive and other trees; and amongst the hills that -encompass the town rise the copious springs which, led into a conduit, -supply Seville with water. Alcalà administers to yet another of the -great city's most material wants, for it almost exclusively furnishes -Seville with bread, whence it has received the agnomen of "_de los -panaderos_" (of the bread-makers), as well as that of "_de Guadaira_," -which it takes from the river that runs in its vicinity. The numerous -mills situated along the course of this stream, by furnishing easy means -of grinding corn, probably led the inhabitants of Alcalà to engage in -the extensive kneading and baking operations which are carried on there. - -The immediate approach to the town is by a narrow gorge between two -steep hills; that on the right, which is the more elevated of the two, -and very rugged and difficult of access, is washed on three sides by the -Guadaira, and crowned with extensive ruins of a Moorish fortress. The -town itself is pent in between these two hills and the river, and, there -can be but little doubt, occupies the site of some Roman city, its -situation being quite such as would have been chosen by that people. - -That it is not on the site of Osset is, as I have before observed, quite -evident, and its present name, being completely Moorish, furnishes no -clue whatever to discover that which it formerly bore. Some have -supposed it is Orippo; but inscriptions found at Dos Hermanos determine -that place to be on the ruins of the said Roman town. Possibly--for such -a supposition accords with the order in which the towns of the county -of Hispalis are mentioned by Pliny--Alcalà may be Vergentum. - -It is a long dirty town, full of ovens and charcoal, and contains a -population of 3000 souls. The chaussée to Madrid, by Cordoba, here -branches off to the left; whilst that to Xeres and Cadiz, crossing the -Guadaira, is directed far inland upon Utrera, rendering it extremely -circuitous. A more direct road strikes off from it immediately after -crossing the river, proceeding by way of Dos Hermanos. - -We still continued to pursue the great road, which, after ascending a -range of hills that rises along the left bank of the Guadaira, traverses -a perfectly flat country, abounding in olives, that extends all the way -to Utrera, a distance of eleven miles. - -Utrera thus stands in the midst of a vast plain, that may be considered -the first step from the marshes of the Guadalquivír, towards the Ronda -mountains, which are yet twelve miles distant to the eastward. A slight -mound, that rises in the centre of the town, and is embraced by an -extensive circuit of dilapidated walls, doubtless offered the inducement -to build a town here; and these walls, some parts of which are very -lofty, and in a tolerably perfect state, appear to be Roman, though the -castle and its immediate outworks are Moorish. - -What the ancient name of the town was would, without the help of -monuments or inscriptions, be now impossible to determine, but it -certainly did not lie upon either of the routes laid down in the -Itinerary of Antoninus, between Cadiz and Cordoba, though some have -imagined it to be Ilipa.[56] Others have supposed it to be Siarum; but -adopting Harduin's reading of Pliny--"Caura, Siarum," instead of -Caurasiarum--it seems more likely that Utrera was Caura, and that Moron, -or some other town yet more distant from Seville, was Siarum. - -By its present name it is well known in Moorish history, its rich -_campiña_ having frequently been ravaged by the Moslems, after they had -been driven from the open country to seek shelter in the neighbouring -mountains. - -At the present day, it is celebrated only for its breeds of saints and -bulls, the former ranked amongst the most devout, the latter the most -ferocious, of Andalusia. The town is large, and not walled in; the -streets are wide and clean, and a plentiful stream rises near and -traverses the place--remarkable as being the only running water within a -circuit of several miles. It contains 15,000 inhabitants, mostly -agriculturists, and a very tolerable inn. - -Utrera, as has already been observed, is situated on the _arrecife_, or -great road, from Cadiz to Madrid, which _arrecife_ makes two -considerable elbows to visit this place and Alcalà. Now from Utrera -there is a cross-road to Carmona (which town is also situated on the -great route to the capital), that, by avoiding Alcalà, reduces the -distance between the two places from seven to six leagues; and from -Utrera there is also another cross-road (by way of Arajal) to Ecija, -which, by cutting off another angle made by the _arrecife_, effects a -yet greater saving in the distance to that city, and consequently to -Cordoba and Madrid. From these circumstances, Utrera becomes, in -military phrase, an important _strategical_ point; and as such, the -French, when advancing upon Cadiz in 1810, attempted to gain it by the -cross-road from Ecija, ere the Duke of Albuquerque, who had taken post -at Carmona, with the view of covering Seville, could reach it by the -_arrecife_. The duke, however, with great judgment, abandoned Seville to -what he well knew must eventually be its fate, and by a rapid march -saved Cadiz, though not without having to engage in a cavalry skirmish -to cover his retreat. - -What important consequences hung upon the decision of that moment; for -how different might have been the result of the war, had the important -fortress of Cadiz fallen into the enemy's hands, and given them 30,000 -disposable troops at that critical juncture![57] - -On issuing from Utrera, we once more quit the chaussée (which is -henceforth directed very straight upon Xeres), and, taking an easterly -course, proceed towards a lofty mountain, that, seemingly detached from -the serrated mass, juts slightly forward into the plain. - -At the distance of six miles from Utrera, the ground, which thus far is -quite flat and very barren, begins to be slightly undulated, and is here -and there dotted with _cortijos_ and corn fields; and, at eight miles -from Utrera, a road crosses from Arajah to Coronil; the first-named town -being distant about two miles on the left, the latter half a league on -the right. For the next league the country is one waving corn-field. At -the end of that distance we reached the steep banks of a rivulet, which -here first issues from the mountains, and is called _El Salado de -Moron_. The road crosses to the right bank of this stream, on gaining -which it immediately turns to the north (keeping parallel to the ridge -of the detached mountain, upon which, as I have already noticed, it had -previously been directed), and ascends very gradually towards Moron. The -country, during this latter portion of the road, is partially wooded. -The total distance from Utrera to Moron is about sixteen miles. - -Moron is singularly situated, being nestled in the lap of five distinct -hills, the easternmost and loftiest of which is occupied by an old -castle, a mixed work of the Romans and Moors. - -According to La Martinière, Moron is on the site of Arunci; and this -opinion seems to rest on a better foundation than that of other authors, -who maintain that Arcos occupies the position of the above-named ancient -city; for it is natural to suppose that the territory of the _Celtici_ -(amongst whose towns _Arunci_ is enumerated by Pliny) did not extend -beyond the intricate belt of mountains known at the present day as the -_Serranía de Ronda_. Now, Moron commands one of the principal entrances -to the Serranía, whereas Arcos is situated far in the plains of the -Guadalete towards Xeres, and would seem rather to have been one of the -cities of the "county of Cadiz." - -Moron is a strong post, for though raised but slightly above the great -plain of Utrera, it commands all the ground in its immediate -neighbourhood; and, standing as it does in a mountain gorge, by which -several roads debouch upon Seville from various parts of the _Serranía_, -it occupies a military position of some consequence. The French guarded -it jealously during the war, and placed the castle in a defensible -state. Since those days its walls have again been dismantled; but the -strength of its position tempted Riego (1820) to try the chances of a -battle with the royal army, commanded by General Josef O'Donnel, ere he -finally abandoned the mountains. - -In vain, however, Riego pointed out to his men the far distant hill of -_Las Cabezas_, where they had first raised the cry of "Constitution, or -death;" their _exaltacion_ had abandoned them, and they in turn -abandoned their exaltation, leaving their strong position after a very -slight resistance. A few days afterwards, at _Fuente Ovejuna_, they were -entirely dispersed. - -The successful general, ready to march either against the insurgents of -the Isla de Leon, or upon the capital, wrote to the king, announcing -that the army of Riego was no more, and requesting to know his commands: -but "_eheu! quam brevibus pereunt ingentia causis!_" a few weeks after -this letter was penned, the victor was a prisoner at Ceuta, and the -vanquished general (without doing any thing in the meanwhile to retrieve -his character) had become the hero of hymns and ballads! The imbecile -Ferdinand, fearful lest, by further delay in accepting the Constitution -he should lose his crown, had despatched orders to those generals who -remained faithful to him, to give up their respective commands, just as -the tide of affairs seemed to be turning in favour of a continuance of -his despotic reign. - -The dispersion of the constitutional army proved two things, however; -the first, that Riego was no general; the second, that he and his party -had deceived themselves as to the political feeling of the inhabitants -of the province. In the course of his rambling operations, Algeciras and -Malaga were the only places where Riego was at all well received. In -vain he tried to maintain himself in the latter city; driven out of it -at the point of the bayonet, he attempted to regain Cadiz, the -head-quarters of the revolt; but, closely pressed by the royal army on -his retreat through the Serranía, was obliged, as I have stated, to -receive battle at Moron, where the disorganization of his force was -completed. - -Moron contains a population of 8,000 souls, and is a well built town, -with wide streets, and good shops. There is a mountain road from hence -to Grazalema (seven leagues) by way of Zahara. The road from Moron to -Ronda passes by Olbera. The distance between the two places is -thirty-one miles. The country, immediately on leaving Moron, becomes -rough and desolate, and the road, (a mere mule-track,) traverses a -succession of strongly marked ridges, which, though not themselves very -elevated, are bounded on all sides by bare and rocky mountains. The -numerous streams which cross the stony pathway all flow to the south, -uniting their waters with the _Salado de Moron_. On penetrating further -into the recesses of the _Serranía_, the valleys become wider, and are -thickly wooded, and the luxuriant growth of the unpruned trees, the -absence of houses, bridges, and all the other signs of the hand of man, -offer a picture of uncultivated nature that could hardly be surpassed -even in the interior of New Zealand. - -At nine miles from Moron is situated the solitary venta of _Zaframagon_, -and, a mile further on, descending by a beautifully wooded ravine, we -reached an isolated rocky mound, under the scarped side of which, -embosomed in groves of orange and pomegranate trees, stands a -picturesque water-mill. From hence to Olbera is seven miles. The country -is of the same wild description as in the preceding portion of the -route, but gradually rises and becomes more bare of trees on drawing -near the little crag-built town. An execrable pavé, which appears to -have remained intact since the days of the Romans, winds for the last -two miles under the chain of hills over whose narrow summit the houses -of Olbera are spread, rising one above another towards an old castle -perched on the pinnacle of a rocky cone. - -By some Spanish antiquaries, Olbera has been supposed to be the _Ilipa_ -mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, as being on the _second_ route laid -down between Cadiz and Cordoba, passing by Antequera. This route, by the -way, is not a less strange one to lay down between the two cities, than -a post road from London to Dover _by way of Brighton_ would be -considered by us; but the fancy of winding it through the least -practicable part of the mountains of Ronda, from Seville (if, as some -imagine, it first went to that city) to Antequera, is even yet more -strange, since a nearly level tract of country extends between those two -cities in a more direct line. - -Considering it, however, merely as a military way, made by the Romans to -connect the principal cities of the province, and serving in case of -need as a communication between Cadiz and Cordoba, _avoiding Seville_; a -much more probable line may be laid down, on which the distances will be -found to agree infinitely better.[58] - -Olbera is a wretched place, containing some 3,000 or 4,000 of the rudest -looking, and, if report speak true, of the least scrupulous, inhabitants -of the Serranía. Their lawless character has already been alluded to, -and, in Rocca's Memoirs, a most interesting account is given of their -reception of him, when, with a party of dragoons, he was on the march -from Moron to Ronda. - -His description of the rickety old town-house, wherein he saved his life -from an infuriated mob by making a fat priest serve as a shield, is most -correctly given, and, in the present dark, suspicious-looking, -cloak-enveloped inhabitants, one may readily picture to one's-self the -descendants of the men who skinned a dead ass, and gave it to the French -troopers for beef; ever after jeering them by asking "_Quien come carne -de burra en Olbera?_ Who eats asses'-flesh at Olbera?" - - Carula (Puebla de Santa Maria) 24 - Ilipa (Grazalema) 18 - Ostippo[59] (La Torre de Alfaquime) 14 - Barba (Almargen) 20 - Anticaria (Antequera) 24 - Angellas 23 - Ipagro 20 - Ulia 10 - Cordoba 18 - ---- - Total 294[60] - ---- - -The view from the old castle is very commanding; the outline of the -amphitheatre of mountains is bold and varied, and the valleys between -the different masses are richly wooded. To the south may be seen the -rocky little fortress of Zahara, sheltered by the huge _Sierra del -Pinar_; and only about two miles distant from Olbera to the north, is -the old castle of Pruna, similarly situated on a conical hill that -stands detached from a lofty impending mountain. - -Olbera is fourteen miles from Ronda. At the distance of rather more than -a mile, a large convent, _N. S. de los Remedios_, stands on the right of -the road, and a little way beyond this, the road descends by a narrow -ravine towards _La Torre de Alfaquime_, and, after winding round the -foot of the cone whereon that little town is perched, reaches and -crosses the Guadalete. This point is about four miles from Olbera. The -stream issues from a dark ravine in the mountains that rise up on the -left of the road, and serves to irrigate a fertile valley, and turn -several mills that here present themselves. - -A road to Setenil is conducted through the narrow gorge whence the -little river issues, but that to Ronda, ascending for three quarters of -an hour, reaches the summit of a lofty mountain on whose eastern -acclivity are strewed the extensive ruins of Acinippo. - -The view is remarkably fine; to the westward, extending as far as -Cadiz, and in the opposite direction looking down upon a wide, smiling -valley, watered by the numerous sources of the Guadalete, and upon the -little castellated town of Setenil, perched on the rocky bank of the -principal branch of that river. This place was very celebrated in the -days of the Moslems, having resisted every attack of the Christians,[61] -until the persevering "_Reyes Catolicos_" brought artillery to bear upon -its defences. - -The road to Ronda descends for two miles, and then keeps for about the -same distance along the banks of the Guadalete, crossing and recrossing -it several times. The surrounding country is one vast corn-field. -Leaving, at length, this rich vale, the road ascends a short but steep -ridge, whence the first view is obtained of the yet more lovely basin of -Ronda, which, clothed with orchards and olive grounds, and surrounded on -all sides by splendid mountains, is justly called the pride of the -Serranía. - -A good stone bridge affords a passage across the _Rio Verde_, or of -Arriate, about a mile above its junction with the Guadiaro; and the road -falls in with that from Grazalema on reaching the top of the hill -whereon the town stands. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - RONDA TO GAUCIN--ROAD TO CASARES--FINE SCENERY--CASARES--DIFFICULTY - IN PROCURING LODGINGS--FINALLY OVERCOME--THE CURA'S HOUSE--VIEW OF - THE TOWN FROM THE RUINS OF THE CASTLE--ITS GREAT STRENGTH--ANCIENT - NAME--IDEAS OF THE SPANIARDS REGARDING PROTESTANTS--SCRAMBLE TO THE - SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA CRISTELLINA--SPLENDID VIEW--JEALOUSY OF THE - NATIVES IN THE MATTER OF SKETCHING--THE CURA AND HIS - BAROMETER--DEPARTURE FOR THE BATHS OF MANILBA--ROMANTIC - SCENERY--ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITERS--THE MASTER OF THE - CEREMONIES--ROADS TO SAN ROQUE AND GIBRALTAR--RIVER GUADIARO AND - VENTA. - - -Ronda and the road from thence to Gaucin have been already fully -described; I will, therefore, pass on, without saying more of either -than that, if the road be one of the _worst_, the scenery along it -equals any to be met with in the south of Spain. The road was formerly -practicable for carriages throughout, but it is now purposely suffered -to go to decay, lest it should furnish Gibraltar with greater facilities -than that great commercial mart already possesses, for destroying the -manufactures of Spain--such, at least, is the excuse offered for the -present wretched state of the road. - -From the rock-built castle of Gaucin we will descend--by what, though -called a road, is little more than a rude flight of steps practised in -the side of the mountain--to the deep valley of the Genal, and, crossing -the pebbly bed of the stream, take a path which, winding through a dense -forest of cork and ilex, is directed round the northern side of the -peaked mountain of _Cristellina_, to a pass between it and the more -distant and wide-spreading _Sierra Bermeja_. - -The scenery, as one advances up the steep acclivity, is remarkably fine. -I do not recollect having any where seen finer woods; and the occasional -glimpses of the glassy Genal, winding in the dark valley below; the -numerous shining little villages that deck its green banks; the -outstretched town of Gaucin and ruined battlements of its impending -castle covering the ridge on the opposite side, and backed by the -distant mountains of Ubrique, Grazalema, &c., furnish all the requisites -for a perfect picture. - -Soon after gaining the summit of the wooded chain, the road branches in -two, that on the left hand proceeding to Estepona, the other to Casares. -Taking the latter, we emerged from the forest in about a quarter of an -hour, and found ourselves at the head of a deep and confined valley, -which, overhung by the scarped peaks of Cristellina on one side, is -bounded on the other by a narrow ridge that, stretching several miles -to the south, terminates in a high conical knoll crowned by the castle -of Casares. - -The road, which is very good, keeps under the crest of the left-hand -ridge, descending for two miles, and very gradually, towards the town. -The view on approaching Casares is remarkably fine, embracing, besides -the picturesque old fortress, an extensive prospect over the apparently -champaign country beyond, which (marked, nevertheless, with many a -wooded dell and rugged promontory,) spreads in all directions towards -the Mediterranean; the dark, cloud-capped rock of Gibraltar rising -proudly from the shining surface of the narrow sea, and overtopping all -the intervening ridges. - -Before reaching Casares, the mountain, along the side of which the road -is conducted, falls suddenly several hundred feet, and a narrow ledge -connects it with the conical mound more to the south, whereon the castle -is perched. The town occupies the summit of this connecting link--which -in one part is so narrow as to afford little more than the space -sufficient for one street--but extends, also, some way round the bases -and up the rude sides of the two impending heights, thus assuming the -shape of an hour-glass. - -Having reached the _Plaza_,--and a tolerably spacious one it is -considering the little ground the town has to spare for -embellishments,--we looked about for the usual signs of a _venta_, but, -failing in discovering any, applied to the bystanders for information, -who, pointing to a wretched hovel, on the wall of which was painted a -shield, bearing, in heraldic language, gules, a bottle sable, told us it -was the only _Ventorillo_[62] in the town. - -Now, though it is a common saying that "good wine needs no bush," we had -yet to learn that dirty floors need no broom; and, unwilling to be the -first to gain experience in the matter, we determined, after a minute -examination of the house, to present ourselves to the _Alcalde_, and, in -virtue of our passports, ask his "aid and assistance" in procuring -better quarters. - -The unusual sight of a party of strange travellers had brought that -important personage himself into the market-place, who, collecting round -him the principal householders of the town, forthwith laid our -distressing case before them, and, in his turn, asked for aid and -assistance in the shape of advice. - -Our papers were accordingly handed round the standing council, and, -having been minutely inspected, turned upside down, the lion and unicorn -duly admired, the great seal of the Governor of Gibraltar examined with -eyes of astonishment, and the question asked "_Son Ingleses?_"[63] -(which was excusable, considering the absurdity of giving passports in -_French_ to English travellers in _Spain_) a shrug of the shoulders -seemed all that the _Alcalde_ was likely to get in the way of advice, or -we in the lieu of board and lodging. - -Guessing at last, by the oft-repeated question concerning our -nationality, "_De que pie cojeaba el negocio_";[64] we took occasion to -signify to the conclave, that a few dollars would most willingly be paid -for any inconvenience the putting us up for the night might occasion. -Our prospects immediately brightened; each had now "_una salita_," that -he could very well spare for a night or so ... "we had our own _mantas_, -so that we should require but mattresses to lie down upon--and as for -stabling, that there was no loss for"--in fact, the only difficulty -appeared to be, how the Alcalde should avoid giving offence to a dozen, -by selecting _one_ to confer the favour of our company upon. - -He saw the delicacy of his position, and hesitated--"he himself, indeed, -had a spare room, but ..." here a portly personage, clothed in a black -silk cassock, and sheltered by an ample shovel hat, stepped forward to -relieve the embarrassed functionary from his dilemma; and giving him a -nod, and us a beckon, drew his _toga_ up behind, and walked off at a -brisk pace towards the castle hill. - -The claims of _El Señor Cura_--for such our conductor proved to be--no -one presumed to dispute; so making our bow to the _Alcalde_, who assured -us that - - _Quien a buen arbol se arrima_ - _buena sombra le cobija_,[65] - -we followed the footsteps of the worthy member of the Church -Hospitaliar, without further colloquy. - -Our conductor stopped not, and spoke not, until we had reached the very -top of the town, and then, leading our horses into a commodious stable, -he ushered us into his own abode; wherein he assured us, if the -accommodation he could offer was suitable, "we had but to _mandar_." It -consisted of a large _sala_ and an _alcoba_, or recess, for a bed; the -latter scrupulously clean, the former lofty and airy. We, therefore, -expressed our entire satisfaction, requesting only that a couple of -mattresses might be spread upon the floor; a friend, who had joined us -at Gaucin, rendering this increase of accommodation necessary. - -Having given instructions to that effect, Don Francisco Labato--for such -our host informed us were his _nombre y appellido_,[66] not omitting to -add, that he was a _clerigo beneficiado_[67]--proposed to accompany us, -to cast an ojeada[68] upon the curious old town, from the ruined -battlements of its ancient fortress; observing that there was yet -abundance of time to do so, "ere Phoebus took his evening plunge into -the western ocean." - -We gladly accepted the proffered ciceroneship of our classical host, -and, mounting the rugged pathway up the isolated crag, in a few minutes -reached the plateau at its summit. It would be hardly possible to select -a less convenient site for a town than that occupied by Casares. Pent in -to the north and south between impracticable crags, and bounded on the -other two sides by deep ravines; it can, in fact, be reached only, -either by describing a wide circuit to gain the mountains, rising at its -back; or, by ascending a rough winding path, practised in the side of -the castle hill. - -The principal part of the town is clustered round the base of the old -fortress, the houses rising one above another in steps, as it were, and -occupying no more of the valuable space than is necessary to give them a -secure foundation. The streets, which are barely wide enough to allow a -paniered donkey to pass freely, are formed out of the live rock, and, -here and there, are cut in wide steps, to render the ascent less -difficult and dangerous. These flat slabs of native limestone, when -heated by a summer sun, though passable enough by unshod animals, afford -but a precarious footing to a horse's iron-bound hoofs. - -The castle can only be approached through the town, and although its -walls have long been in ruins, yet, so strong are its natural defences, -that the muzzles of a few rusty old guns, propped up by stones, and -protruded from the prostrate parapets, were sufficient to deter the -French from making any attempt upon the place during the war of -independence:--such, at least, is the version of the inhabitants. - -That Casares was a Roman town is almost proved by the name it yet bears; -but the matter is placed beyond a doubt on examining the old foundations -of the castle, which are clearly of a date anterior to the occupation of -Spain by the Saracens. - -The name it anciently bore strikes me as being equally obvious, viz., -_Cæsaris Salutariensis_; so designated from the mineral waters in its -neighbourhood, which, though _now_ known by the name of the modern town -of Manilba, are within the _termino_ of Casares. For, not only were the -valuable properties of these springs well known to the Romans, but, -according to the common belief in the country, they performed a -wonderful cure on one of the emperors--Trajan, I think. - -_Cæsaris Salutariensis_ is mentioned by Pliny, amongst the Latin towns -of the _conventus gaditanus_; the limits of which country may, at first -sight, appear to be somewhat stretched to include Casares; but -Barbesula, which stood at the mouth of the river Guadiaro, at an equal -distance from Cadiz, (as is clearly proved by inscriptions found there,) -is also mentioned by that excellent authority as one of the stipendiary -towns of the same county; and the order in which they are enumerated, -viz., those first which were nearest to the capital, tends to confirm my -supposition. - -On our return from the old castle, which commands a splendid view, we -were not displeased to find that our host was no despiser of the good -things of this world, much as he gave us to understand that all his -thoughts were directed towards the never-ending joys of that which is to -come. Every thing bespoke a well-conducted _ménage_; the house, besides -being clean and tastily decorated with flowers, was provided with some -solid comforts. The _Cura's niece_--his housekeeper, butler, and -factotum--was pretty, as well as intelligent and obliging. His _cuisine_ -was tolerably free from garlic and grease, his wine from aniseed. Our -horses were up to their knees in fresh straw; and three clean beds were -prepared for ourselves. - -Our host excused himself from partaking of our meal, he having already -dined, and, whilst we were doing justice to his good catering, paced up -and down the room pretending to read, but in reality watching our -movements, and, as it at first struck us, looking after his silver -spoons: but divers testy hints given to his bright-eyed niece that her -constant attendance upon us was unnecessary, soon made it evident that -_she_ was the object of his solicitude; as, judging from the occasional -direction of our eyes, he rightly conjectured what was the subject of -our conversation. Anon, however, he would approach the table, thrust the -volume of Homilies under his left arm, and, taking a pinch of snuff, -(which he said was "_bueno para el estudio_"[69]) ask our way of -thinking on various subjects, political and theological, always -prefacing his interrogatories by some observation, either on his passion -for study, the cosmopolitan bent of his mind, or the superiority his -learning gave him over the vulgar prejudices of the age. And, at length, -when the table was cleared, the niece gone, and he had elicited from us -that we were all three _English_, he observed, without further -circumlocution, "_Pues Señores_, you are not members of the _Santa -Iglesia, Catolica Romana_?" - -"No," we replied, "_Catolica_ but not _Romana_." - -"That is to say, you are heretical Christians." - -"That is to say, we differ with you as regards the corporeal nature of -the elements partaken of in the Eucharist; we deny the efficacy of -masses; the power of granting indulgences; and the necessity for -auricular confession:--and so far certainly we are heretics in the eyes -of the church of Rome." - -The worthy _Cura_--much as he had studied--was by no means aware that -our pretensions to Catholicism were so great as, on continuing the -controversy, he discovered them to be.[70] He made a stout stand, -however, for the absolute necessity of auricular confession; maintaining -that we, by dispensing with it, deprived the poor and ignorant of a -friend, a counsellor, and an intercessor;--stript our church of the -power of reclaiming sinners, and checking growing heresies;--and our -government of the means of anticipating the mischievous projects of -designing men. - -It was in vain we urged to our host that, in our favoured country, -education had done away with the necessity for strengthening the hands -of government by such means; that the poor were provided for by law; and -that the clergy were ever ready to counsel and assist those who stood in -need of spiritual consolation. But, before leaving us for the night, the -_Padre_ admitted that _we_ were certainly Christians, and that many of -the mysteries and practices of the Church of Rome were merely preserved -to enable the clergy to maintain their influence over the people;--an -influence which we deemed quite necessary for the well-being of the -state. - -Rising betimes on the following morning, we set off on foot to clamber -to the lofty peak of the _Sierra Cristellina_; and regular climbing it -was, for all traces of a footpath were soon lost, and we then had to -mount the precipitous face of the cone in the best way we could. The -magnificence of the view from the summit amply repaid us for the fatigue -and loss of shoe-leather we had to bear with; for, though scarcely 2000 -feet above the level of the sea, the peak stands so completely detached -from all other mountains, that it affords a bird's eye view which could -be surpassed only by that from a balloon. The entire face of the -country was spread out like a map before us. To the north, penned in on -all sides by savage mountains, lay the wide, forest-covered valley of -the Genal, its deeply furrowed sides affording secure though but scanty -lodgment to the numerous little fastnesses scattered over them by the -persecuted _Mudejares_, when expelled from the more fertile plains of -the Guadalquivír and Guadalete; and on which castellated crags the -swarthy descendants of these "mediatised" Moors still continue to reside -and bid defiance to civilization. - -These little strongholds stand for the most part on the summit of rocky -knolls that jut into the dark valley; and round the base of each a small -extent of the forest has in most cases been cleared, serving, in times -past, to improve its means of defence, and, at the present day, to admit -the sun to shine upon the vineyards, in the cultivation of which the -rude inhabitants find employment, when, obliged for a time to lay aside -the smuggler's blunderbuss, they take to the axe and pruning-knife. -Behind, serving as a kind of citadel to these numerous outworks, rises -the huge _Sierra Bermeja_, which afforded a last refuge to the -persecuted Moslems; and at its very foot, about five miles up the valley -of the Genal, are the ruins of _Benastepar_; the birth-place of the -Moorish hero, _El Feri_, whose courage and address so long baffled the -exterminating projects of the Spaniards. - -Turning now round to the south, a totally different, and yet more -magnificent, view meets the eye. Gibraltar,--its lovely bay,--the -African mountains, rising range above range,--and the distant Atlantic, -successively present themselves: whilst, from the height at which we are -raised above the intermediate country, the courses of the different -rivers, that issue from the gorges of the sierras at our back, may be -distinctly followed through all their windings to the Mediterranean, the -features of the intervening ground appearing to be so slightly marked as -to lead to the supposition that the country below must be perfectly -accessible;--but, as one of our party drily observed, those who, like -himself, had followed red-legged partridges across it could tell a -different story. - -We returned to Casares by descending the eastern side of the mountain, -which is planted with vines to within a short distance of the summit. In -fact, wherever a little earth can be scraped together, a root is -inserted. The wine made from the grapes grown on this bank is considered -the best of Casares; it is not unlike Cassis--small, but highly -flavoured. The town, looked down upon in this direction, has a singular -appearance, seeming to stand on a high cliff overhanging the -Mediterranean shore, though, in reality, it is six or seven miles from -it. - -We amused ourselves during the rest of the afternoon in taking sketches -of the town from various points in the neighbourhood, and excited the -wrath of some passers-by to a furious degree. They swore we were -_mapeando el pueblo_,[71] and that they would have us arrested; but we -were strong in our innocence, and turned a deaf ear to their menaces. It -is, however, a practice that is often attended with annoying -consequences; for I have known several instances of English officers -having been taken before the military authorities for merely sketching a -picturesque barn or cork tree--so great is the national jealousy. - -At our evening meal, our host, as on the former occasion walked -book-in-hand up and down the room, but was evidently less watchful of -his pretty niece and silver spoons. His attention, indeed, appeared to -be entirely given to the state of the mercury in an old barometer, -which, appended to the wall at the further end of the room, he consulted -at every turn, putting divers weatherwise questions to us as he did so. -And at last, he asked in plain language, whether our church ever put up -prayers for rain, and if they ever brought it. - -The occasion of all this _pumping_ we found to be, that the country in -the neighbourhood having long been suffering from drought, the -husbandmen, apprehensive of the consequences, had for some days past -been urging him to pray for rain, but the state of the barometer had not -hitherto, he said, warranted his doing so, and he had, therefore, put -them off, on various pretences. "Yesterday, however," he observed, -"seeing that the mercury was falling, I gave notice that I should make -intercession for them; and, I think, judging from present appearances, -that my prayers are likely to be as effectual as those of any bishop -could possibly be." And off he started to church, giving us, at parting, -a very significant, though somewhat heterodoxical grin. - -Nevertheless, not a drop of rain fell that night; the barometer was at -fault; and the only clouds visible in the morning were those gathered on -the brow of the _Cura_. They dispersed, however, like mist under the -sun's rays; when, bidding him farewell, and thanking him for his -hospitable entertainment, we slipped a _doublon de à ocho_ into his -hand; which, pocketing without the slightest hesitation, he assured us, -with imperturbable gravity, should be applied to the services of the -_church_--"as, doubtless, we intended." - -Threading once more the rudely _graduated_ streets of the town, we took -the stony pathway, before noticed, which winds down under the eastern -side of the castle hill, and in rather more than half an hour were again -beyond the limits of the Serranía, and in a country of corn and pasture. - -At the foot of the mountain two roads present themselves, one proceeding -straight across the country to San Roque and Gibraltar (nineteen and -twenty-five miles), the other seeking more directly the Mediterranean -shore, and visiting on its way the sulphur-baths and little town of -Manilba. - -The _Cura_ had spoken in such terms of commendation of the _Hedionda_ -(fetid spring)--claiming it jealously as the property of Casares--that -we were tempted to lengthen our journey by a few miles to pay it a -visit. - -The road to it follows the course of the little stream that flows in the -valley between the Cristellina mountain and Casares, which, escaping by -a narrow rocky gorge immediately below the town, winds round the foot of -the castle crag, and takes an easterly direction to the Mediterranean. -The country at first is open, and the stream flows through a smiling -valley, without encountering any obstacle; but, at about two miles from -Casares, a dark and narrow defile presents itself, which, the winding -rivulet having in vain sought to avoid, finally precipitates itself -into, and is lost sight of, under an entangled canopy of arbutus, -lauristinus, clematis, and various creepers. So narrow and overshadowed -is the chasm, so high and precipitous are its bank--themselves overgrown -with coppice and forest-trees, wherever the crumbling rocks have allowed -their roots to spread--that even the sunbeams have difficulty in -reaching the foaming stream, as it hurries over its rough and tortuous -bed; and the pathway, following the various windings of the narrow -gorge,--now keeping along the shady bank of the rivulet, now climbing, -by rudely carved zig-zags, some little way up the precipitous sides of -the fissure,--is barely of a width to admit of the passage of a loaded -mule. - -So wildly beautiful is the scenery, so free from artificial -embellishments,--for the low moss-grown water-mills which are scattered -along the course of the stream, and here and there a rustic bridge, owe -their beauty rather to nature than art--so _romantic_, in fine, is the -spot, that, if in the vicinity of a fashionable _baden_, it could not -fail of being a little fortune to all the ragged donkey-drivers within a -circuit of many leagues, and of proving a mine of wealth to the -surveyors of _tables d'hôtes_, and _restaurans_, and keepers of billiard -and faro tables. - -The amusements of the frequenters of the humble _Hedionda_ are, however, -very different, and the sequestered dell is visited only by chanting -muleteers, driving their files of laded animals to or from the mills; -or, perchance, by some sulphurated old lady, who, ensconced in a -pillowed _jamuga_,[72] is bending her way, with renovated health, -towards Casares or Ximena: to which places the narrow fissure offers the -nearest road from the baths. - -After proceeding about a mile down the dark ravine, its banks, crumbling -down in rude blocks, recede from each other, and a huge barren sierra is -discovered rising steeply along the southern bank of the stream, to -which the road now crosses. It greatly excited our surprise how this -lofty and strongly marked ridge could have escaped our observation from -Casares, for it had seemed to us, that on descending from thence we -should leave the mountains altogether behind us. - -From the base of this barren ridge issues the _Hedionda_; still, -however, about a mile from us; and ere reaching it, the hills retiring -for a time yet more from the stream, leave a flat space of some extent, -and in form resembling an amphitheatre, which is planted with all kinds -of fruit-trees, and dotted with vine-clung cottages. This spot is called -_La Huerta_--the orchard; and these comfortless looking little -hovels--pleasing nevertheless to the eye--we eventually learnt are the -lodging-houses of the most aristocratic visiters of the baths. - -Traversing the fruitful little dell, and mounting a low rocky ledge that -completes its enclosure to the east, leaving only a narrow passage for -the rivulet, we found ourselves close to the baths; our vicinity to -which, however, the offensive smell of the spring (prevailing even over -the strong perfume of the orange blossoms) had already duly apprized us -of. - -The baths are situated almost in the bed of the pure mountain stream, -whose course we had been following from Casares; and a short distance -beyond, and at a slight elevation above them, stands a neat and compact -little village. - -The season being at its height, we found the place so crowded with -visiters, that it would have been impossible to procure a night's -lodging, had such been our wish. All we required, however, was -information concerning the place; for which purpose we repaired to the -_Fonda_,--a kind of booth, such as is knocked up at fairs in England for -the sale of gin, "and other cordials,"--and ordered such refreshment as -it afforded, asking the _Moza_[73] if she could tell us whether any of -the houses were vacant, &c. - -She replied, that the Fonda was provided with every thing necessary for -travellers of distinction, being established on the footing of the -hotels "_de mas fama_" of Malaga and San Roque; and that _El Señor -Juan_, the "_intendente_"[74] of the place,--who, doubtless, on hearing -of our arrival, would forthwith pay his respects to us,--could furnish -every sort of information respecting it. - -Oh! a master of the ceremonies, with his book, thought we--well, this -will be amusing: some urbane "captain," no doubt, all smiles to all -persons!--and whilst we were yet picturing to ourselves what this -Spanish Beau Nash could possibly be like, a tall ungainly personage, -with a considerable halt in his gait, a fund of humour in his long -leathern countenance, and a paper cigar screwed up in the dexter corner -of his mouth, presented himself, and placed his services at our -disposition. - -He held a huge pitcher of the fragrant water in one hand, which, when he -was in motion, gave him a "lurch to starboard;" a stout staff in the -other, by means of which he established an equilibrium when at rest. His -body was coatless, his neck cravatless, his shirt sleeves were rolled up -to the elbow, leaving his brown sinewy arms bare; his trowsers hung in -braceless negligence about his hips; his large bare feet were thrust -into a pair of capacious shoes; and his head was covered with a -high-crowned, narrow-brimmed, Frenchified hat, which had evidently -browned under the heat of many summers, and bent to the storms of -intervening winters. Round his neck hung a stout silver chain (which the -fumes of the sulphur-spring had turned as black as Berlin iron), whence -was suspended a ponderous master-key. - -"He must be the prison-keeper," said we, "carrying the daily allowance -of water to the incarcerated malefactors!" - -"This is _Señor Juan, el intendente_," said our smirking attendant, -placing a bottle of wine upon the table before us. - -"Oh! this is _Señor Juan_, the master of the ceremonies!--Then pray be -seated, _Señor Juan_; and bring another wine-glass, _Mariquita_." - -Our requests were instantly complied with; and in half an hour we had -disengaged from the numberless "_por supuestos, conques_," and "_pues_," -with which Señor Juan interlarded his conversation, and from the smoky -exhalations in which he enveloped it, all the information we required -concerning the baths, though by no means so full an account of them as -the gossip-loving _Tio_ seemed disposed to give us. So pleased were we, -however, with his description of the amusements of the place, and of the -valuable properties of its waters, that, assuring him we should take an -early opportunity of renewing his acquaintance, and commending him to -the care of _San Juan Nepomaceno_, we arose, and took our departure. - -I was not long in performing my promise. Indeed, I became an annual -visiter to the baths for a few days during the shooting season; and will -devote the following chapter to a more particular description of the -_Hedionda_, and the manner of life at a Spanish watering-place. - -The mule-track from the baths to Gibraltar--for during the first few -miles it is little else--keeps down the valley for some little distance, -and then, ascending a steep hill, joins at its summit a road leading to -Casares from Manilba; which latter little town is seen about -three-quarters of a mile off, on the left. This road to Casares turns -the _sierra_ overhanging the baths on its western side, where it meets -with some flat, nearly table-land; but our route to Gibraltar, after -keeping along it a few hundred yards, strikes off to the left, and, -traversing a wild and very broken country, in something more than three -miles forms its junction with the road from the town of Manilba to San -Roque and Gibraltar, which again, half a mile further on, falls into the -road from Malaga to those two places. This spot is distant five miles -from the baths, and rather more than two from the river Guadiaro. - -Near some farm-houses on the left bank of this river, and about a mile -from its mouth, are ruins of the Roman town of _Barbesula_. Some -monuments and inscriptions found here, many years since, were carried to -Gibraltar. - -The bed of the Guadiaro is wide but shallow, and offers two fords, which -are practicable at most seasons. There is a ferry-boat kept, however, at -the upper point of passage, for cases of necessity. A venta is situated -on the right bank of the stream, whereat a bevy of custom-house people -generally assemble to levy contributions on the passers-by. It is a -wretched place of accommodation, though better than another, distant -about a mile further, on the road to Gibraltar, and well known to the -sportsmen of the garrison by the name of _pan y agua_--bread and -water--those being the only supplies that the establishment can be -depended upon to furnish. Its vicinity to some excellent snipe ground -occasions it to be much resorted to in the winter. - -At the first-named venta, two roads present themselves, that on the -right hand proceeding to San Roque, (eight miles,) the other seeking the -coast and keeping along it to Gibraltar--a distance of twelve miles. - -The country traversed by the former is very rugged, but the path is, -nevertheless, unnecessarily circuitous. In various places--but a little -off the road--are vestiges of an old paved route, which, it is by no -means improbable, was the Roman way from _Barbesula_ to _Carteia_, of -which further notice will be taken, when the coast road from Malaga to -Gibraltar is described. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - THE BATHS OF MANILBA--A SPECIMEN OF FABULOUS HISTORY--PROPERTIES OF - THE HEDIONDA--SOCIETY OF THE BATHING VILLAGE--REMARKABLE - MOUNTAIN--AN ENGLISH BOTANIST--TOWN OF MANILBA--AN INTRUSIVE - VISITER--RIDE TO ESTEPONA--RETURN BY WAY OF CASARES. - - -The baths of Manilba lie about seventeen miles N.N.E. of Gibraltar, and -four, inland, from the sea-fort of Savanilla. The town, from which they -take their name, is about midway between them and the coast; and, -standing on a commanding knoll, is a conspicuous object when sailing -along the Mediterranean shore. - -The virtues of the sulphureous spring have long been known; but it is -only within the last few years that the increasing reputation of the -medicated source led a company of speculators to build the village which -now stands in its vicinity; the scattered cottages of the _Huerta_ -having been found quite incapable of lodging the vast crowd of -valetudinarians, annually drawn to the spot. The same parties have yet -more recently erected a chapel, and also the _Fonda_, mentioned in the -preceding chapter. - -The little village is built with the regularity of even Wiesbaden -itself, but nothing can well be more different in other respects than it -is from that, or any other watering-place, which I have ever visited. It -consists of five or six parallel stacks of houses, forming streets which -open at one end upon the bank overhanging the now sulphurated stream, -that flows down from Casares; and which abut, at the other, against the -side of the lofty mountain whence the medicated spring issues. These -streets are covered in with trellis-work, over which vines are trained, -rendering them cool, as well as agreeable to the sight. The houses are -all built on a uniform plan, namely, they have no upper story, and -contain but _one room each_; which room is furnished with the usual -Spanish kitchen-range--that is, with three or four little bricked stoves -built into a kind of dresser. By this arrangement, every room is, of -itself, capable of forming a _complete establishment_; and in most -cases, indeed, it does serve the triple purposes of a kitchen, a -refectory, and a dormitory, to its frugal inmates. When a family is -large, however, an entire lareet must be hired for its accommodation. - -The principal speculator in the joint-stock village is a gentleman of -Estepona; and _El Señor Juan_--or _Tio Juan_, as he is familiarly -called by those admitted to his intimacy--is a poor relative, who, for -the slight perquisites of office, readily undertook the charge of the -infant establishment. - -The choice of the _Tio_ was, in every respect, a judicious one; for, -having drunk himself off the crutches on which he hobbled down to the -baths, he has become a kind of walking advertisement of the efficacy of -the waters. He is not, however, like the unsightly fellows who -perambulate the streets of London with placards, a silent one; for I -know of no man more thoroughly versed in the art of _viva voce_ puffing -than _Tio Juan_; and then he has stored his memory with such a fund of -useful watering-place information, that he is a perfect guide to the -_Hedionda_ and its environs. - -The _Tio_ and I soon became wonderful cronies; I derived great amusement -from his _cuentas_--he, much gratification from my nightly whisky-toddy. -In fact, the two dovetailed into each other in a most remarkable manner; -for, when once the _Tio_ had attached one of his long stories to a -(_pint_) bottle of "poteen," there was no possibility of separating -them--they drew cork and breath together, and together only they came to -a conclusion. - -He knew every body that visited the baths, and every thing about them; -could point out those who came for health, and those who were allured -by dissipation; could tell which ladies and gentlemen were looking out -for matrimony, which for intrigue; whether the buxom widow had fruitful -vineyards and olive grounds with her weeds; whether the young ladies had -shining _onzas_ to recommend them as well as sparkling eyes. - -Then the Tio knew where every medicinal herb grew that was suited to any -given case--could point out the haunt of every covey of red-legged -partridges in the vicinity--could tell to an hour when a flight of quail -would cross from the parched shores of Africa--when the matchless -_becafigos_ would alight upon the neighbouring fig-trees--and, as the -season advanced, he would mark the time to a nicety when the first -annual visit of the woodcocks might be looked for to the wooded glens -beyond the baths. - -As the historian of the wonder-working spring, the _Tio_ was not less -valuable; though, it must be confessed, the terms in which he conveyed -the idea of its vast antiquity were any thing but prepossessing; viz., -"_Pues! saben ustedes, que esa hedionda es mas vieja que la sarna._" -"Know then, gentlemen, that this fetid spring is older than the itch." -In other respects, however, the information he had collected, besides -being most rare, possessed a freshness that was truly delightful; -"_Siglos hay_,[75]" he would continue, "the spring was _endemoniado_, -for _Carlomagno_, or some other great hero of the most remote antiquity, -drove an evil spirit into the mountain, which said spirit, to be -revenged on mankind, poisoned the source whence the stream flows. Saint -James, however, arriving in the country soon after--having taken Spain -under his especial protection--determined to expel this imp of Satan. -This was done accordingly, and the devil went over into Barbary, (where -he eventually stirred up the Moors against the adopted children of -_Santiago_--the story of _Don Rodrigo_ and _La Cava_ being all a fable,) -leaving nothing but his sulphur behind." - -"The good saint, to perpetuate the fame of the miracle he had wrought, -next determined to endue the spring with extraordinary curative -properties; not depriving it, however, of the unusually bad smell left -by the devil, that the marvellous work he was about to perform might be -the more apparent to future generations." - -"Some years after this, the baths were visited by '_muchos emperadores -de Roma_;'[76] amongst others, Trajan and Hercules; as also by the -famous Roland; and, '_segun dicen_,' by _un Ingles, llamado Malbrù, y -otra gente muy principal_."[77] "In those days," continued the Tio, -"there were _palathios, posa'a, y to'o_,[78] but then came the Moors -(with the devil in their train), and laid every thing waste. They had -not the power, however, to deprive the stream of its virtues; and great -they are, and most justly celebrated _por todo la España_."[79] - -In detailing the wonderful properties of the spring committed to his -charge, _Tio Juan_ would enter with all the minuteness of an Herodotus. -By his account, there was no ailment to which suffering humanity is -exposed that it would not reach. It was a "universal medicine"--a -Hygeian fountain that bestowed perpetual youth--a Styx that rendered -mankind invulnerable. It gave strength to the weak, and ease to those -who were in pain--rendered the barren fruitful, and the splenetic, -good-humoured--made the fat, lean, and the lean, fat. By it the good -liver was freed from gout, and the bad liver from bile. The sores of the -leper were dried up, and the lungs of the asthmatic inflated--it made -the maimed whole, and patched up the broken-hearted. He had known many -instances of its curing consumption, and had seen it act like a charm in -cases of tympany. - -"In fact," said old Juan--"_para todo tiene remedio_.--_Mir' -usted_[80]--I, who on my arrival here could not put a foot to the -ground, now, as you may perceive, walk about like a _Jovencito_;[81] -and, under proper directions, I have no doubt it would make a man live -for ever."[82] - -Nor did the long list of the water's valuable qualities end here. It was -good for all the common purposes of life--for stewing and for -boiling--for washing and for shaving;--and, to wind up all, as we go on -sinning, until, by constant repetition, crime no longer pricks one's -conscience, so, the _Tio_ declared, one went on drinking this devilish -water until it positively became palatable. "_Jo no bebo otra_," he -concluded, "_nunca bebo otra--guiso y to'o con ella_."[83] - -Now, though the Tio painted the yellow spring thus _couleur de rose_, -and his account of its wonderful properties, like his system of -chronology, must be received with caution, yet I must needs confess that -the _Hedionda_ seemed to perform extraordinary cures; and, even in my -own case, I ever fancied that after a few days passed at the baths, I -returned to Gibraltar with invigorated powers of digestion. I could by -no means, however, bring myself to submit to the _Tio's_ discipline, and -he was wont to shake his head very seriously, when, returning from a -hard day's shooting, I used to request him to open a bath for me after -sunset--Hercules, himself, he thought could not have stood that. - -That this spring was known to the Romans there can be no manner of -doubt, since the public bath, which still exists, is a work of that -people. The source is very copious, and the water of an equal -temperature throughout the year, viz., 73 to 75 degrees of Fahrenheit's -thermometer. - -On analysis it is found to contain large quantities of hydrogen and -carbonic acid gases, and the following proportions of fixed substances -in fifty pounds of water, viz., six grains of muriate of lime; fifty-six -of sulphate of magnesia; thirty-five of sulphate of lime; ten of -magnesia; and four of silica. The quantity of sulphur it holds in -solution is so great, that the vine-dressers in the neighbourhood make -themselves matches, by merely steeping linen rags in the waste water of -the baths. - -The use of the bath has been found very efficacious in the cure of all -kinds of cutaneous diseases, ulcers, wounds, and elephantiasis; and -taken inwardly, the water is considered by the faculty as extremely -beneficial in cases of gout, asthma, scrofula, rheumatism, dyspepsia, -and, as the Tio said, in fact, in almost every disorder that human -nature is subject to. - -The season for taking the waters is from the beginning of June to the -end of September; and it is astonishing during those four months what -vast crowds of persons, of every grade and calling, are brought -together. Nobles, priests, peasants, and beggars--the gouty, -hypochondriac, lame, and blind--all flock from every part of the kingdom -to the famed Hedionda. It was ever a matter of surprise to me where such -a host can find accommodation. - -The same regimen is prescribed at this as at other watering places; -viz., plenty of the spring, moderate exercise, and abstemious diet; and -in this latter item, at least, the injunctions are as generally -disregarded at Manilba as at the Brunnens of Nassau: that is, -comparatively speaking, for it must be borne in mind that a German's -daily food would support a Spaniard for a week. - -The principal bath is open to the public, and, being very large and -tolerably deep, is by far the pleasantest, when one can be sure of its -entire possession. Those which have been built by the company of -speculators are too small, though convenient in other respects. The -charge for the use of these is moderate enough, viz., one real and a -half each time of bathing; which includes a trifling gratuity to _Tio -Juan_. - -The source from which the drinkers fill their goblets is open to all -comers, and any one may bottle and carry off the precious water _ad -libitum_. A considerable quantity is sent in stone jars to the -neighbouring towns; but Tio Juan maintained--and I believe not without -good reason--that it lost all its properties on the journey "_amen del -mal olor_."[84] - -The situation of the new village would have been more agreeable had it -been built somewhat higher up the side of the sierra, instead of on the -immediate bank of the rivulet, where it is excluded from the fine view -it might otherwise command, and is sheltered from every breath of air. -It is not, however, so sultry as might be expected, considering its -confined situation; for the mountain behind screens it from the sun's -rays at an early hour after noon, and the opposite bank of the ravine, -by sloping down gradually to the stream, and being clothed to the -water's edge with vines, fig, and other fruit-trees, throws back no -reflected heat upon the dwellings. - -The manner of life of the visiters of the _hedionda_ is not less -different from that of the watering places of other countries, than the -place itself is from Cheltenham or Carlsbad. They rise with the sun; -drink their first glass of water at the spring on their way to chapel; a -second glass, in returning from their devotions; and then take a -_paseito_[85] in the _huerta_: but not until after the third dose do -they venture on their usual breakfast of a cup of chocolate. The bath -and the toilette occupy the rest of the morning. Dinner is taken at one -or two o'clock; the _Siesta_ follows, and before sunset another bath, -perhaps. The _Paseo_ comes next--that is quite indispensable--and the -_Tertulia_ concludes the arrangements for the day. - -This, at the baths, is a kind of public assembly held in the open air, -and generally in one of the vine-sheltered streets of the modern -village. A guitar, cards, dancing, and games of forfeit, are the various -resources of the _réunion_; which breaks up at an early hour. - -_Tio Juan_, in his shirt-sleeves and slippers, is a constant attendant -at the _Tertulia_, usually looking on at the sports and pastimes with -becoming gravity, but occasionally taking a hand at _Malilla_,[86] or -joining the noisy circle playing at _El Enfermo_;[87] in which, when the -usual question is asked, "What will _you_ give the sick man?" he -invariably answers, "_El Agua--nada mas que el agua--que no hay cosa mas -sano en el mundo_,"[88] puffing away at his paper cigar all the while -with the most imperturbable gravity, and casting a side glance at me, as -much as to say--"not a word of our nightly _symposium_, if you please." - -The company on these occasions is, as may be supposed, of a very mixed -kind. Let it not be imagined, however, that because "_Señor Juan_" -presents himself with bare elbows, that it is altogether of a secondary -order--far from it--for such is the caprice of fashion, such the love of -change, that even the noblest of the land are ofttimes inmates of the -little inconvenient hovels that I have described; but _Tio Juan_ is a -privileged person--every body consults him, every one makes him his or -her confidant. And so curiously is Spanish society constituted, that -though considered the proudest people in the world, yet, on occasions -like this, Spaniards lay aside the distinction of rank, and mix together -in the most unceremonious manner. Indeed, no people I have ever seen -treat their inferiors with greater respect than the Spanish Nobles. They -enter familiarly into conversation with the servants standing behind -their chair; and, strange as it may appear, this freedom is never taken -advantage of, nor are they less respected, nor worse served in -consequence. - -The custom of kneeling down in common at their places of public worship -may have a tendency to keep up this feeling, warning the rich and -powerful of the earth that, though placed temporarily above the peasant -in the world's estimation, yet that he is their equal in the sight of -the Creator of all; an accountable being like themselves, and deserving -of the treatment of a human being. - -The Spanish nobles certainly find their reward in adopting such a line -of conduct, for they are served with extraordinary fidelity; and the -horrors which were perpetrated _through the instrumentality of -servants_, during the French revolution, is little to be apprehended in -this country; perhaps, indeed, this good understanding between master -and man has hitherto saved Spain from its reign of terror. - -The chapel of the bathing village is generally thronged with penitents; -for people become very devout when they have, or fancy they have, one -foot in the grave. The little edifice may be considered the repository -of the _archives_ of _the Hedionda_, for countless are the legs, arms, -heads, and bodies, moulded in wax, or carved in wood, and telling of -wondrous cures, that have been offered at the shrine of Our Lady of _Los -Remedios_. - -Leaving the good Romanists at their devotions within the crowded chapel, -and _Tio Juan_, with one knee and his pitcher of water on the ground, -and his staff in hand, offering a passing prayer behind the throng -collected outside the open door, we will devote the morning to a -scramble to the summit of the steep mountain that rises at the back of -the baths. - -The _Sierra de Utrera_, by which name this rugged ridge is -distinguished, is of very singular formation. Its eastern base (whence -the _hedionda_ issues) is covered with a crumbling mass of schist, -disposed in laminæ, shelving downwards, at an angle of 25 or 30 degrees -with the horizon. This sloping bank reaches to about one third the -height of the mountain, when rude rocks of a most peculiar character -shoot up above its general surface, rising pyramidically, but assuming -most fantastic forms, and each pile consisting of a series of huge -blocks (sometimes fourteen or fifteen in number), resting loosely one -upon another, and seemingly so much off the centre of gravity as to lead -to the belief that a slight push would lay them prostrate. - -At first these detached pinnacles rise only to the height of fifteen or -twenty feet, but, on drawing near the crest of the ridge, they attain -nearly twice that elevation. The general surface of the mountain, above -which these piles of rocking stones rise, is rent by deep chasms, as if -the whole mass of rock had, at some distant period, been shaken to its -very foundation by an earthquake. In these rents, soil has been -gradually collected, and vegetation been the consequence; but the -general character of the mountain is arid and sterile. - -The ascent becomes very difficult as one proceeds, and, in fact, it -requires some little agility to reach the crest of the singular ridge. -Its summit presents a very rough, though nearly horizontal surface, -varying in width from 300 to 400 yards; and, looking from its western -side, the spectator fancies himself elevated on the walls of some vast -castle, so precipitously does the rocky ledge fall in that direction, so -level and smiling is the cultivated country spread out but a couple of -hundred feet below him. - -This rocky plateau appears to have been covered, in former days, with -the same singularly formed pyramids that protrude from the eastern -acclivity of the mountain; but they have probably been hewn into mill -stones, as many of the rough blocks strewed about its surface are now in -process of becoming. The plateau extends nearly two miles in a parallel -direction to the rock of Gibraltar, that is, nearly due north and south -by compass; and, when on its summit, the ridge appears continuous; but, -on proceeding to examine the southern portion of the plateau, I found -myself suddenly on the brink of a chasm, upwards of a hundred feet -deep, which, traversing the mountain from east to west, cuts it -completely in two. This cleft varies in width from 50 to 100 feet; and -in winter brings down a copious stream, being the drain of a -considerable extent of country on the western side of the ridge. It is -partially clothed with shrubs and wild olive-trees, and a rude pathway -leads down the dark dell to the _hedionda_, which issues from the base -of the mountain, about 200 yards to the north of the opening of the -chasm. - -This remarkable gap, though not distinguishable from the baths situated -immediately below it, is so well defined, and has so peculiar an -appearance at a distance, that it is an important landmark for the -coasting vessels. - -The southern portion of the Sierra is far less accessible than that -which has been described; in fact, access to its summit can be gained -only by means of a ramped road, which, piercing the rocky precipice on -its western side, has been made to facilitate the transport of the -millstones prepared there. In other respects, this part of the plateau -is of the same character as the other. - -Wonderful are the tales of fairies, devils, and evil spirits, told by -the goatherds and others who frequent this singular mountain; and _Tio -Juan_, who never would suffer himself to be outdone in the marvellous, -told us that "_un Ingles_," who, about two years before, had been on a -visit to the baths, had disappeared there in a most mysterious way. A -goatherd of his acquaintance had seen him descend into a cleft in search -of some herb, but out of it he had never returned. "_Se dicen_," he -concluded, "_que era uno de esos Lores, de que hay tantos en -Inglaterra_;[89] but I can hardly believe, if he had possessed such -'_montones de oro_'[90] as was represented, that he would have been -going about like a pedlar, with a basket slung to his back, picking up -all sorts of herbs, and drying them with great care every day when he -returned home, spreading them out between the leaves of a large book. -'_A me mi parece_,'[91] that he was gathering them to make tea with; but -I know an herb which grows on that Sierra, which is worth all the -medicines[92] in the world: ay! and in some cases it is yet quicker, -though not more effectual, in its cure, than even the waters of the -_hedionda_; and some day, _Don Carlos_, I will walk up and show you the -cleft wherein it grows." - -The _Tio's_ occupations were, however, too constant to allow of his -accompanying me in search of this wonderful plant, and, consequently, -my curiosity concerning it was never gratified. - -The district of Manilba is celebrated for the productiveness of its -vineyards, and the undulated country between the baths and the southern -foot of the _Sierra Bermeja_ is almost exclusively devoted to the -culture of the grape. That most esteemed is a large purple kind. It is -highly flavoured, and makes a strong-bodied and very palatable wine, -though, in nine cases out of ten, the wine is spoilt by some defect of -the skin in which it has been carried. - -The husks of the Manilba grape, after the juice has been expressed, -enjoy a reputation for the cure of rheumatism, scarcely less than that -of the sulphureous spring itself. The sufferer is immersed up to the -neck in a vat full of the fermenting skins, and, after remaining therein -a whole morning, comes forth as purple as a printer's devil. I have met -with persons who declared they had received great benefit from this -vinous bath; but I question whether interment in hot sand (a mode of -treatment, by the way, which has been tried with great success) would -not have been found more efficacious, without subjecting the patient to -this unpleasant discoloration. - -Several interesting mornings' excursions may be made from the baths. The -village of Manilba (about two miles distant) is situated on a high, but -narrow ridge, that protrudes from the south-eastern extremity of the -Sierra de Utrera. It is a compactly built place, and commands fine -views: towards the mountains on one side, and over the Mediterranean on -the other. The population amounts to about 3000 souls, principally -vinedressers and husbandmen. - -On one occasion--having found all the lodging-houses at the _hedionda_ -occupied, I established myself for a few days at the posada at Manilba, -where a singular adventure befel me. Mine host entered my room on the -evening of my arrival, and very mysteriously informed me, that a certain -person--a friend of his--a Spanish officer "_por fin_," who had -distinguished himself greatly under the constitutional government, and -was a _caballero de toda confianza_,[93] wished very much to have the -honour of paying me a visit, if I were agreeable, which, hearing I was -alone, he thought it possible I might be; and, before I had time fully -to explain that I was quite tired from a long day's shooting, and must -beg to be excused, the _Lismahago_ himself walked in--as vulgar, -off-handed, free-and-easy a gentleman as I ever came across. - -Having expressed unbounded love for the English nation, and stated his -conviction--drawn from his intimate knowledge of the character of -British officers--that they were, one and all, well disposed to assist -in the grand work of regenerating Spain, he proceeded to state, that the -"friends of liberty," in various towns of that part of the Peninsula, -had entered into a plot to subvert the existing government of the -country, and having many friends in Gibraltar, wished, through the -medium of an officer of that garrison, to communicate with them; that, -understanding I was, &c. &c. &c. - -I had merely acknowledged that I comprehended what he was saying, by -bowing severally to the numerous panegyrics on liberty, and compliments -to myself and nation, with which he interlarded his discourse--for the -above is but the skimmed milk of his eloquent harangue; but, finding -that he had at length concluded, I expressed the deep regret I felt at -not being able to meet his friendly proposal in the way he wished, from -the circumstance of my time being fully occupied in preparing a -deep-laid plot against my own government--nothing less, in fact, than to -give up the important fortress of Gibraltar to the Emperor of Morocco, -until we had established a republic in England. When this grand project -was accomplished, I added, I should be quite at leisure, and would most -willingly enter into any treasonable designs against any other -government; but, at present, he must see it was quite out of the -question. - -My visiter gazed on me "with the eyes of astonishment," but I kept my -countenance. He rose from his seat--I did the same. - -"Are you serious?" asked he. - -"Perfectly so," I replied; "but, of course, I reckon on your maintaining -the strictest secrecy in the matter I have just communicated," I added -earnestly. - -"You may rely in perfect confidence upon me." - -"Do you smoke? Pray accept of a Gibraltar cigar. I regret that I cannot -ask you to remain with me, but I have letters of the utmost importance -to write, which must be sent off by daybreak." He accepted my proffered -cigar, begged I would command his services on all occasions, and walked -off. - -I made sure he was a government spy, and in a towering rage sent for the -innkeeper. He protested such was not the case, adding, "but, to confess -the truth," he was a poor harmless fellow,--a reduced officer of the -constitutional army,--who was very fond of the English, not less so of -wine; talked a great deal of nonsense, which nobody minded; and hoped I -would take no notice of it. - -I reminded mine host, that he had said he was a "_distinguished -officer_," and had called him "_his friend_."--"_Si, señor, es -verdad_;[94] but the fact is, he followed me up stairs, and I knew he -was at the door, listening to what I might say." - -I very much doubted the truth of his asseverations, and my doubts were -confirmed by my never afterwards seeing the constitutional officer about -the premises; but, to prevent a repetition of such introductions, I -begged to be allowed the privilege of choosing my own associates, -telling him, indeed, that my further stay at his house would depend upon -it. I still, however, continued to look upon the fellow as a spy, until -the mad attempt made by Torrijos to bring about a revolution, not very -long afterwards, led me to think that my visiter's overture might really -have been seriously intended. - -Manilba is distant about seven miles from Estepona. The first part of -the road thither lies through productive vineyards; the latter along the -sea-shore, on reaching which it falls into the road from Gibraltar to -Malaga. - -Not many years since Estepona was a mere fishing village, built under -the protection of one of the _casa fuertes_ that guard the coast; but -the fort stands now in the midst of a thriving town, containing 6000 -inhabitants. - -The fish taken here finds a ready sale in the Serranía, whither it is -conveyed in a half-salted state, on the backs of mules or asses. The -_Sardina_ frequents this coast in great numbers; it is a delicious -fish, of the herring kind, but more delicately flavoured. - -The environs of Estepona are very fruitful; and oranges and lemons are -exported thence to a large amount--the greater portion to England. The -place is distant twenty-five miles from Gibraltar (by the road), and -sixteen from Marbella. To the latter the road is very good. - -A most delightful ride offers itself to return from hence to the baths -of Manilba, by way of Casares. The road, for the first few miles, keeps -under the deeply seamed and pine-clad side of the _Sierra Bermeja_, and -then, leaving the mountain-path to Gaucin (mentioned in a preceding -chapter) to the right, enters an intersected country, winding along the -edge of several deep ravines, shaded by groves of chesnut-trees, and -reaches Casares very unexpectedly; leaving a large convent, situated on -the side of a steep bank, on the left, just before entering the narrow, -rock-bound town. - -The road from Casares to the baths has already been described, but two -other routes offer themselves from that town to reach Manilba. The more -direct of these keeps the fissure in which the _hedionda_ is situated on -the right; the other makes a wide circuit round the _Sierra de Utrera_, -and leaves the baths on the left. By the former the distance is five and -a half, by the latter seven miles. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - A SHOOTING PARTY TO THE MOUNTAINS--OUR ITALIAN PIQUEUR, DAMIEN - BERRIO--SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS PREVIOUS LIFE--LOS BARRIOS--THE - BEAUTIFUL MAID, AND THE MAIDEN'S LEVELLING SIRE--ROAD TO - SANONA--PREPARATIONS AGAINST BANDITS--ARRIVAL AT THE - CASERIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS OWNER AND ACCOMMODATIONS--FINE - SCENERY--A BATIDA. - - -In the wildest part of the mountainous belt that, stretching in a wide -semicircle round Gibraltar, cuts the rocky peninsula off, as it were, -from the rest of Spain, is situated the _Casería de Sanona_; a lone -house, now dwindled down to a mere farm; but, as both its name implies, -and its appearance bespeaks, formerly a place of some consequence. - -It was brought to its present lowly state during the last war, when its -inhabitants were so reduced in number, as well as circumstances, that -hands and means are still equally wanting for the proper looking after, -and attending to, the vast herds and extensive _dehesas_[95] and -forest-lands belonging to it. The consequence is, that the wolves and -wild boars, from having been so long permitted to roam about in -undisputed possession of the woods, have in their turn, from being the -persecuted, become the aggressors, and are now in the habit of making -nightly predatory visits to the cattle folds and plantations of the -_Casería_, carrying off the farmer's sheep and heifers, and destroying -his winter stock of vegetables, whenever, by any neglect or remissness -of the watch, an opportunity is afforded them. - -Besides the animals above mentioned, deer, and, in the winter, -woodcocks, find the unfrequented ravines in the vicinity of the -_Casería_ equally well suited to their secluded habits; and, tempted by -the promising account of the sport the place afforded, a party was -formed, consisting of three of my most intimate friends, myself, and a -piqueur, to proceed thither for a few days' shooting. - -Sending forward a messenger to the Casería, as well to go through the -form of asking its proprietor to "put us up," during our proposed visit, -as to request him to have a sufficient number of beaters collected--on -which the quality of the sport mainly depends--we provided ourselves -with a week's consumption of provisions and ammunition, and, leaving -Gibraltar late in the afternoon, proceeded to Los Barrios; whence, we -could take an earlier departure on the following morning than from the -locked-up fortress. - -The _Piqueur_ who usually accompanied us on these shooting excursions -was a personage of some celebrity in the Gibraltar _sporting world_, and -his name--Damien Berrio--will doubtless be familiar to such of my -readers as may have resided any time on "the rock." By birth a -Piedmontese, a baker by profession, Damien's bread--like that of many -persons in a more elevated walk of life--was not to his taste. At the -very mention of a _Batida_, he would leave oven, home, wife, and -children; shoulder his gun, fill his _alforjas_--for he was a provident -soul, and, though a baker, ever maintained that man could not live on -bread alone--borrow a horse, and, in half an hour, "be ready for a -start." - -Possessing a perfect knowledge of the country, a quick eye, an unerring -aim, and a nose that could wind an _olla_ if within the circuit of a -Spanish league, Damien was, in many respects, a valuable acquisition on -a shooting party. And to the aforesaid qualifications, befitting him for -the _staff_, he added that of being an excellent _raconteur_. In this he -received much assistance from his personal appearance, which, like that -of the inimitable Liston, passed off for humour that which, in reality, -was pure nature. - -His person was much above the common stature, erect, and well-built, but -his hands and feet were "prodigious." His face--when the sun fell -directly upon it, so as to free it from the shadow of his enormous -nose--was intelligent, and bespoke infinite good nature, though marked, -nevertheless, with the lines of care and sorrow. His costume was that of -a French sportsman, except that he wore a high-crowned, weather-beaten -old hat, placed somewhat knowingly on one side of his head, and which, -of itself alone, marked him as "_a character_." - -To those who have not had the pleasure of his acquaintance, a _precis_ -of his early history may not be unacceptable; those who already know it -will, I trust, pardon the short digression. - -Born on the sunny side of the Alps, some fifteen years before the -breaking out of the French revolution, Damien, at a very early age, was -called upon to defend his country against the aggression of its Gallic -neighbours. He was draughted accordingly to a regiment of grenadiers of -the Piedmontese army commanded by General Colli; and, in the short and -disgraceful campaign of 1796, was made prisoner with the brave but -unfortunate Provèra, at the Castle of Cosséria. - -On the formation of the Cisalpine republic soon afterwards, our -grenadier, released, as he fondly imagined, from the necessity of any -further military service, purposed returning to his family and regretted -agricultural pursuits; but, on applying for his discharge, he found that -he had quite misunderstood the meaning of the word _freedom_. "What!" -said the regenerator of his oppressed country; "what! return home like a -lazy drone, when so much still remains to be done! No, no, we cannot -part with you yet; we are about to give liberty to the rest of Italy; -you must march; can mankind be more beneficially or philanthropically -employed? _Allons! en avant! vive la liberté!_"--"And so," said Damien, -"off we were marched, under the tail of the French eagle, to give -freedom to the _Facchini of Venice_, and _Lazzaroni_ of Naples; and to -spoil and pillage all that lay in our way." - -This marauding life was ill-suited either to our hero's taste or habits, -and accordingly he embraced the first favourable opportunity of quitting -the service of the "Regenerator of Italy." How he managed to effect his -liberation I never could find out, it being one of the very few subjects -on which Damien was close; but I suspect--much as he liked -shooting--that the love of the smell of gunpowder was not a _natural_ -taste of his. Be that as it may, he made his way to Spain--took to -himself a Spanish wife--and settled at Gibraltar. - -His language, like the dress of a harlequin, was made up of -scraps,--French, Spanish, English, and Italian, joined in angularly and -without method or regularity; and all so badly spoken, as to render it -impossible to say which amongst them was the mother-tongue. -Nevertheless, Damien got on well with every body, and his _bonhommie_ -and good nature rendered him a universal favourite. In other respects, -however, he was not so favoured a child of fortune; for, though no idle -seeker of adventures, in fact, he was wont to go a great way to avoid -them, yet, as ill luck would have it, adventures very frequently came -across him. And it generally happened, as with the famed Manchegan -knight, that Damien, in his various encounters, came off "second best." -That is to say, they usually ended in his finding himself _minus_ his -gun, or his horse, or both, and, perhaps, his _alforjas_ to boot. - -By his own account, these untoward events invariably happened through -some want of proper precaution--either whilst he was indulging in a -_Siesta_, or taking a snack by the side of some cool stream, his trusty -gun being out of his immediate reach, or when committing some other -imprudent act. So it was, however, and these "_petits malheurs_," as he -was in the habit of calling them, had generated a more than ordinary -dread of robbers, which, in its turn, had produced in him a disposition -to be gregarious whenever he passed the bounds of the English garrison. - -In travelling through the mountains, we always knew when we were -approaching what Damien considered a likely spot for an ambuscade, by -his striking up a martial air that he told us had been the favourite -march of the regiment of grenadiers in which he had served; giving us -from time to time a hint that it would be well to be upon the look-out -by observing to the person next him, "_Hay muchos ladrones par ici, mon -Capitaine--el año pasado (maledetti sian' ces gueux d'Espagnols!) on m'a -volé une bonne escopète en este maldito callejon_[96]--_Il faut être -preparé, Messieurs!_" and then the Piedmontese march was resumed with -increased energy, growing _piu marcato e risoluto_, as the banks of the -gorge became higher and the underwood thicker. - -On regaining the open country, the air was changed by a playful -_Cadenza_ to one of a more lively character, and, after a _Da Capo_, -generally ended with "_n'ayez pas peur, Messieurs--questi birbánti -Spagniuoli_"[97] (he seldom abused them in their native language, lest -he should be over-heard) "_n'osent pas nous attaquer à forces égales_." - -Poor _Damien!_ many is the good laugh your fears have unconsciously -occasioned us--many the joking bet the tuning up of the Piedmontese -grenadiers' march has given rise to--and every note of which is at this -moment as perfect in my recollection as when we traversed together the -wild _puertas de Sanona_. - -The town of Los Barrios, where we took up our quarters for the night, is -twelve miles from Gibraltar. It is a small, open town, containing some -2000 souls, and, though founded only since the capture of Gibraltar, -already shows sad symptoms of decay. - -Being within a ride of the British garrison, it is frequently visited by -its inmates, and two rival _posadas_ dispute the honour of possessing -the _golden fleece_. One of them, for a time, carried all before it, in -consequence of the beauty of the _Donzella de la Casa_:[98] but beauty -_will_ fade, however unwillingly--as in this case--its possessor admits -that it does; and the "fair maid of Los Barrios," who, when I first saw -her, was really a very beautiful girl, had, at the period of my last -visit, become a coarse, fat, middle-aged, _young woman_; and, as the -charges for looking at her remained the same as ever, I proved a -recreant knight, and went to the rival posada. - -Nothing could well be more ludicrous than the contrast, in dress and -appearance, between the beauty's mother and the beauty herself--unless, -indeed, the visiter arrived very unexpectedly,--the one being dirty, -slatternly, and clothed in old rags; the other, _muy bien peynado_,[99] -and pomatumed, and decked in all the finery and ornaments presented by -her numerous admirers. The old lady was excessively proud of her -daughter's beauty and wardrobe; and in showing her off always reminded -me of the _sin-par_[100] Panza's mode of speaking of his _Sanchita, una -muchacha a quien crio para condesa_.[101] - -The father of "the beauty" was a notorious _liberal_; and, having -outraged the laws of his country on various occasions, was executed at -Seville some years since. He was, I think, the most thorough-going -leveller I ever met with--one who would not have sheathed the knife as -long as any individual better off than himself remained in the country. -Boasting to me on one occasion of the great deeds he had done during the -war, he said that in one night he had despatched eleven French soldiers, -who were quartered in his house. He effected his purpose by making them -drunk, having previously drugged their wine to produce sleep. He put -them to death with his knife as they lay senseless on the floor, carried -them out into the yard, and threw them into a pit. The monster who could -boast of such a crime would commit it if he had the opportunity; and -though I suspect the number of his victims was exaggerated, yet I have -no doubt whatever that he did not make himself out to be a murderer -without some good grounds; and, I confess, it gave me very little regret -to hear, a year or two afterwards, that he had perished on the scaffold. - -The road to Sanona enters the mountains soon after leaving Los Barrios, -ascending, for the first few miles, along the bank of the river -Palmones. The scenery is very fine; huge masses of scarped and jagged -sierras are tossed about in the most fantastic irregularity, whilst the -valleys between are clad with a luxuriance of foliage that can be met -with only in this prolific climate. - -Looking back, the silvery Palmones may be traced winding between its -wooded banks towards the bay of Gibraltar, which, viewed in this -direction, has the appearance of a vast lake; the African shore, from -Ape's Hill to the promontory of Ceuta, seeming to complete its enclosure -to the south. - -After proceeding some miles further, the road becomes a mere -mule-track, and the country very wild and barren. The Piedmontese march -had been gradually _crescendo_ ever since leaving the cultivated valley -of the Palmones, and Damien, as he rode on before us, had already given -sundry yet more palpable intimations of impending danger,--firstly, by -examining the priming of his old flint gun,--secondly, by trying whether -the balls were rammed home,--and, lastly, by producing a brandy bottle -from his capacious pocket; when, arrived at the foot of a peculiarly -dreary and rocky pass, pulling up and dismounting from his horse, under -pretence of tightening the girths of his saddle, he exclaimed, "_à -present, Messieurs, es preciso cargar--ces lâches d'Espagnols viennent -toujours a l'improviste, et se non siamo apparecchiati sarémo tutti -inretati come tanti uccellini.--Somos todos muy bien armados con -escopetas à dos cañones; y con juicio, no tendremos que temer--ma ... -bisogna giudizio!_"[102] and in accordance with his wishes thus clearly -expressed, we all loaded with ball, and, pushing on an advanced guard, -boldly entered the rugged defile, joining our voices in grand chorus in -the inspiriting grenadier's march. - -On emerging from this rocky gorge, we entered a peculiarly wild and -secluded valley, which, so completely is it shut out from all view, one -might imagine, but for the narrow path under our feet, had never been -trodden by man. The road winds round the heads of numerous dark ravines, -crosses numberless torrents, that rush foaming from the impending sierra -on the left, and is screened effectually from the sun by an impenetrable -covering of oak and other forest-trees, festooned with woodbine, -eglantine, and wild vines; whilst the valley below is clothed, from end -to end, with cistus, broom, wild lavender, thyme, and other indigenous -aromatic shrubs. - -At the end of about three leagues, we reached the head of the valley, -where one of the principal sources of the Palmones takes its rise. The -neck of land that divides this stream from the affluents to the Celemin, -is the pass of Sanona. From hence the _Casería_ is visible, and a rapid -descent of about a mile brought us to the door of the lone mansion. - -Our arrival was announced to the inmates by a general salute from the -countless dogs that invariably form part of a Spanish farmer's -establishment. The horrid din soon brought forth the equally -shaggy-coated bipeds, headed by a venerable-looking old man, who, with a -slight recognition of Damien, stepped to the front, and, in a very -dignified manner, announcing himself as the owner of the _Casería_, -begged we would alight, and consider his house our own. - -"My habitation is but a poor one, _Caballeros_; the accommodation it -affords yet poorer. I wish for your sakes I had better to offer; but of -this you may rest assured, that every thing _Luis de Castro_ possesses, -will ever be at the service of the brave nation who generously aided, -and by whose side I have fought, to maintain the independence of my -country."--"_Bravo, Don Luis!_" ejaculated Damien, which saved us the -trouble of making a suitable speech in return. - -We were much pleased with our host's appearance: indeed the shape of his -cranium was itself sufficient to secure him the good opinion of all -disciples of Spurzheim; but this feeling of gratification was by no -means called forth by his _Casería_, from the outward inspection of -which we judged the organ of accommodation to be wofully deficient. - -The house and out-buildings formerly occupied a considerable extent of -ground, but at the present day they are reduced to three sides of a -small square, of which the centre building contains the dwelling -apartments of the family, and the wings afford cover to the retainers, -cattle, and farming implements. A stout wall completes the enclosure on -the fourth side, wherein a wide folding gate affords the only means of -external communication. - -The _Casería_ has long been possessed by the family of its present -occupant, but, losing something of its importance at each succeeding -generation, has dwindled down to its present insignificant condition. -Don Luis strives hard, nevertheless, to keep up the family dignity of -the De Castros, though joining with patriarchal simplicity in all the -services, occupations, and pastimes, of his dependents. - -The portion of the house reserved for himself and family consists but of -two rooms on the ground-floor. The outer and larger of these serves the -double purpose of a kitchen and refectory; the other is appropriated to -the multifarious offices of a chapel, dormitory, henroost, and granary. -In this inner room we were duly installed,--the lady de Castro, and -other members of the family, removing into a neighbouring _choza_ during -our stay: and a sheet having been drawn over the Virgin and child, the -cocks and hens driven from the rafters, and the Indian corn swept up -into a corner, we found ourselves more _snugly_ lodged than outward -appearances had led us to expect. - -Leaving our friend Damien to make what arrangements he pleased as to -dinner--a discretional power that always afforded him infinite -gratification--we proceeded to examine the "location," with a view of -obtaining some notion of the country which was to be the scene of our -next day's sporting operations. - -The situation of the _Casería_ is singularly romantic; to the north it -is backed by a richly wooded slope, above which, at the distance of -about half a mile, a rocky ledge of sierra rises perpendicularly several -hundred feet, its dark outline serving as a fine relief to the rich and -varied green tints of the forest. In the opposite direction, the house -commands a view over a wide and partially wooded valley, along the bed -of which the eye occasionally catches a glimpse of a sparkling stream, -that is collected from the various dark ravines which break the lofty -mountain-ridges on either side. A wooded range, steep, but of somewhat -less elevation than the other mountains that the eye embraces, appears -to close the mouth of this valley; but, winding round its foot to the -right, the stream gains a narrow outlet to the extensive plain of Vejer, -and empties itself into the _Laguna de la Janda_--a portion of which may -be seen; and over this intermediate range rise, in the distance, the -peaked summits of the _Sierra de la Plata_, whose southern base is -washed by the Atlantic. - -The beauty of the scenery, heightened by the broad shadows cast upon the -mountains, and the varied tints that ever attend upon a setting sun in -this Elysian atmosphere, had tempted us to continue roaming about, -selecting the most favourable points of view, without once thinking of -our evening meal; and when, at length, the sun disappeared behind the -mountains, we found we had, unconsciously, wandered some considerable -distance from the _Casería_. We forthwith bent our steps homewards, and, -on drawing near the house, were not a little amused at hearing Damien's -stentorian halloos to draw our attention, which were sent back to him in -echoes from all parts of the _Serranía_. He was right glad to see us, -though vexed at our extreme imprudence in wandering about the woods -without an _escopeta_, or defensive weapon of any sort amongst us. - -"_Messieurs, quand vous connoitrez ces gens çi aussi bien que moi----!_" - -We referred to Don Luis (who had come out with the intention of -proceeding in search of us), whether there were any _mala gente_ in the -neighbourhood. A faint smile played about the old man's mouth as he -looked towards Damien, as if guessing the source from which our -interrogation had sprung, and, then waving his right hand to and fro, -with the forefinger extended upwards, he replied, "_Por aqui Caballeros -no hay mala gente alguna; esa Canalla conoce demasiado quien es Luis de -Castro!_"[103] - -On entering the house, we found a large party assembled round the -charcoal fire, preparing to take their evening _gazpacho_[104] -_caliente_; and, hot as had been the day, we gladly joined the circle, -until our own more substantial supper should be announced. The group -consisted of the wife, son, and daughter-in-law of our host, and several -of his friends, who, living at a distance, had come overnight, to be -ready to take part in the _batida_ on the following morning. - -A _batida_ bears so strong a resemblance to the same sort of thing -common in Germany, and indeed in some parts of Scotland, that a very -detailed account of one would be uninteresting to most of my readers. We -turned out at daybreak, and, recruited by the neighbouring peasantry, -found that we mustered twenty-three guns, and dogs innumerable, mostly -of a kind called by the Spaniards _podencos_, for which the most -appropriate term in our language is lurcher; though that does not -altogether express the strong-made, wiry-haired dog used by the -Spaniards on these occasions. - -As the _camas_[105] about Sanona are very wide, and require a number of -guns to line them, only eleven of the men could be spared for beaters. -These were placed under the direction of Alonzo, our host's son, whilst -Don Luis himself took command of the sportsmen in the quality of -_capitan_; and his first order was to prohibit all squibbing off of -guns, by which the game might be disturbed. - -The two parties, on leaving the house, took different directions. Our's, -after proceeding about a mile, was halted, and enjoined to form in rank -entire, and keep perfectly silent. We then ascended a steep, thickly -coppiced hill, and were placed in position along its crest, at intervals -of about a hundred yards, with directions to watch the openings through -the underwood in our front--to screen ourselves from observation as well -as we could--not to stir from the spot until the signal was made to -retire--and to observe carefully the position of our fellow sportsmen on -either side, to prevent accidents. - -We were much amused at the manner in which Don Luis--to whom we were all -perfect strangers--selected us to occupy the different approaches to the -position. Scanning us over from right to left, and from head to foot, he -seemed to pick and choose his men as if perfectly aware of the peculiar -qualities each possessed, befitting him for the situation in which he -purposed placing him; and, beckoning the one selected out of the rank, -without uttering a word he led him to the assigned post, pointed out the -various openings in the underwood, and gave his final instructions in a -low whisper. - -On leaving me he pointed to a narrow passage between two huge blocks of -rock, and in a low voice said "_Lobo_;"[106] which, I must confess, made -me look about for a tree, as a secure position to fall back upon, in the -event of my fire failing to bring the expected visiter to the ground. - -The position we occupied had a deep ravine in front, a wide valley on -one flank, and a precipitous wall of rock on the other; but, as the -event proved, it was far too extended. Thus posted, we remained for a -considerable time, and I began to think very meanly of the sport, -especially as I did not much like to withdraw my eyes from the rocky -pass where the wolf was to be looked for; but at length the distant -shouts of the beaters resounded through the mountains, and a few minutes -after, the faint but true-toned yelp of one of the hounds put me quite -on the _qui vive_; and when, in a few seconds, other dogs gave tongue, -and several shots were fired by the beaters (who are furnished with -blank cartridge), giving the assurance that game had been sprung, a -feeling of excitement was produced, that can, I think, hardly be -equalled by any other description of sport. - -The first gun from our own party almost induced me to rush forward and -break the line; but, just at the moment, a rustling in the underwood -drew my attention, and, looking up, I saw a fine buck "at gaze," as the -heralds say, about thirty yards off, and exactly in the direction of the -spot where I had seen my friend G---- posted. - -The animal, with ears erect, was listening, in evident alarm, to the -barking of the dogs; yet, from the shot just fired in his front, -scarcely knowing on which side danger was most imminent. I was so -screened by the underwood that he did not perceive me, and I could have -shot him with the greatest ease--that is to say, had my nervous system -been in proper trim,--but that the fear of killing my neighbour withheld -me; so there I stood, with my gun at the first motion of the present, -and there stood the deer, in just as great a _quandary_. - -At length, losing all patience, I hallooed to my neighbour by name, -hoping by his reply to learn whereabouts he was (for that he had moved -from his post was evident), and, if possible, get a shot at the deer as -he turned back, which I doubted not he would do. But, alas! my call -produced no response, and the fine animal bounded forward, breaking -through our line, and rendering it too hazardous for me to salute him -with both barrels, as I had murderously projected. - -Soon after the horn sounded for our reassembly. The _cama_[107] had -been very unsuccessful. One deer only, besides that which visited me, -had been driven through our line; the rest of the herd, and several wild -boars, turned our position by its right, which was too extensive for the -small number of guns. One of the Spaniards had shot a fox, which was all -we had to show; and his companions shook their heads, considering it a -bad omen, and that it was, indeed, likely to turn out "_una dia de -zorras_."[108] - -On my relating the tantalizing dilemma in which I had been placed, old -_Luis_, who felt somewhat sore at the signal failure of his generalship, -declared we should have no sport if I stood upon such ceremony; adding, -with much energy of manner, and addressing himself to the assembled -party, "As soon as ever you see your game, _carajo! candela!_"[109]--a -speech that reminded us forcibly of Suwarrow's reply to his Austrian -coadjutor, when urging the prudence of a _reconnoissance_ before -undertaking some delicate operation, viz.--"_Poussez en avant--chargez à -la bayonette--voilà mes reconnoissances._" - -The beaters were now directed to make a "wide cast," and, if possible, -head the game that had escaped us, whilst we moved off to a fresh -position, about half a mile in rear, and perpendicular to the former. -This plan was pretty successful: we killed a wolf and two deer, but Don -Luis was by no means satisfied. - -It was now noon-day, and, ascending a rocky ledge that projects into the -wide valley, already described as lying in front of the house, we -obtained a splendid panoramic view of the whole wooded district of -Sanona. We found, on gaining the summit, that the provident Damien had -directed a _muchacho_ to meet us there, with a mule-load of provender, -which he was pleased to call "_un petit peu de rafraichissement_." We -were quite prepared to acknowledge our sense of his foresight and -discretion in the most unequivocal manner; for the exertion of climbing -the successive mountain-ridges, and forcing our way through the -underwood, as well as the excitement of the sport, had given a keen edge -to our appetites. - -Whilst seated in a convivial circle, smoking our cigars at the -conclusion of our repast, we observed that poor Alonzo--who, though a -stoutly built, was a very sickly-looking man--appeared to be quite -exhausted from the heat and fatigue of the day, and that poor old Luis -looked from time to time on his son, as he lay full-length upon the -ground, with a heart-rending expression of grief. - -One of our party remarked to him, that Alonzo did not appear to be well, -and suggested that he had better not exert himself further. Don Luis -shook his head. "Alas! señor!" he replied, "my poor Alonzo is as well as -ever he again will be. But do not suppose that he is a degenerate scion -of the De Castros; nor even that I regret seeing him in his present -state. No: much as I once wished to see the family name handed down to -another generation--of which there is now no chance--I would rather, -much rather, that he should have sacrificed his health--his life -indeed--for his country, than that any vain wish of mine should be -gratified." - -Our curiosity excited by the words, and yet more by the manner of the -old man, we ventured, after some little preamble, to ask what had -occasioned the change in his son that his speech implied. - -"It is a long story, _caballeros_," he answered; "but, as the sun is now -too powerful to allow us to resume our sport, I will, if you feel -disposed to listen to a garrulous old man, relate the circumstances that -led to my son's being reduced to the lamentable state in which you see -him." We contracted the circle round Don Luis, the Spaniards, -apparently, quite as intent on hearing the thrice-told tale as -ourselves; and Damien, though still busily occupied at his -"_rafraichissement_," also lending an attentive ear. - -The fine old man was seated on a rock, elevated somewhat above the rest -of the party, holding in his right hand his uncouth-looking -fowling-piece, whilst the other rested on the head of a favourite dog, -that came, seemingly, to beg his master to remonstrate with Damien for -using his teeth to tear off the little flesh that remained on a -ham-bone. - -Don Luis, after patting the impatient favourite on the head and bidding -him lie down, thus began his story. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -LUIS DE CASTRO. - -"_Tiene este caso un no sé que de sombra de adventura de -Caballeria._"--DON QUIJOTE. - - -I need not tell enlightened Englishmen--commenced Don Luis--that the -name I bear is no common one. The Casería which you there see, and all -the shady glens we here look down upon, were granted to the renowned De -Castro, whose valour so materially aided the Catholic kings, of blessed -memory, in the pious work of extirpating the vile followers of the -Arabian Impostor from the soil of Spain; and the patrimony thus acquired -by my ancestor's sword has been handed down from generation to -generation to me,--too likely, alas! to be the last of the race to -inherit it. - -I married early in life, and was blessed with several children. Alonzo, -the first-born, was the only one permitted to reach maturity,--but I -repine not. They were all healthy, and every thing a parent could wish. -Years rolled on unmarked by any events of importance. Our days were -passed in attending to our herds; our evenings, in singing and dancing -to the notes of the wild guitar. Our festivals were devoted to the -exhilarating sport we have this morning been following; nor did we, -amidst our happiness, neglect to offer up our thanks to the Omnipotent -Deity, who,--through the propitiating influence of our patron -saints--was pleased to pour his blessings upon us. - -But a storm arose, which, for a time, shook our happy country to its -foundation. Spain became the object of a vile tyrant's insatiable -ambition. The perfidious Corsican, under the specious plea of -friendship, marched his licentious legions into our devoted country: and -having, by shameless deceit, first possessed himself of all our -strongholds, threw off the mask, and treated us as a conquered nation. - -This favoured province was, for some considerable time saved from the -desolation that wasted the rest of Spain, by the heroism of one of her -sons:--the brave Castaños hastened to place himself at the head of the -national troops, and in the defiles of the Sierra Morena, captured a -whole French army. But jealousy and intrigue--the greatest enemies our -country had to contend against--caused his services to be requited with -ingratitude. Another French army advanced, but we had not another -Castaños to oppose it. The enemy forced the barriers with which nature -and art had defended the province, and, like a swarm of locusts, spread -over and consumed the rich produce of its fertile fields. - -The mountaineers of Ronda and Granada, engaged in the vile contraband -trade which the disorganized state of the country favoured, were slow to -take up arms against the invaders, but "_Io y mi gente_" (I and my -people) were early in the field, harassing their parties conveying -supplies to the siege of Cadiz, as well as protecting the surrounding -country from their predatory visits; and our secluded _Casería_ afforded -a secure retreat to the inhabitants of the plain, when forced to abandon -their hearths. - -I will not take up your time with the account of the various encounters -we had with the enemy--they are well known throughout the Serranía--but -will confine my narrative to what more particularly concerns my son. - -On one occasion, fortune presented him with an opportunity of saving a -party of the king's troops, who had got entangled in the intricacies of -the Serranía; his knowledge of the country having enabled him to lead -them clear of their pursuers, and bring them safely to the _Casería_. - -Disappointed of the prey they had so confidently calculated upon, and -uneasy at a body of disciplined troops being added to our _guerilla_, -and established so close to them, the enemy determined on sending a -large force to root us out of our fastness. We, on our parts, hoping -that the French were unconscious of the place where the troops had found -a refuge, were meditating an attack upon their post of Alcalà, when the -storm burst suddenly upon our heads, and, but for the devotedness and -presence of mind of my gallant son, would have involved us all in one -common destruction. - -Alonzo had gone off to reconnoitre in the direction of Tarifa, a rumour -having reached us that the enemy had invested that place; and we were -anxiously awaiting his return to decide upon our plans, when, soon after -nightfall, a lad belonging to the _Venta de Tabilla_ arrived at the -_Casería_ on my son's horse, and in hurried words, informed me that a -large body of French troops was advancing upon the house. - -The enemy had forced this lad,--who alone had been left in charge of the -_Venta_,--to be their guide, and he had already conducted them across -the swamps at the head of the _Laguna de la Janda_, and was within a -hundred yards of the road leading from Tarifa to Casa Vieja--by keeping -along which to the left, he purposed gaining the shortest road into our -sequestered valley--when Alonzo crossed the path immediately in front of -them. - -From what we learnt afterwards it appeared, that he had been for some -time watching the enemy's movements, and, guessing from the direction -they had finally taken, whither they were bound, had thus purposely -thrown himself in their way; resolved--cut off as he found himself from -the shortest road to the _Casería_--to take this hazardous step to save -us from a surprise. - -On being questioned as to his knowledge of the country, he at once -offered to guide them to the _Casería_. "This is your way," he said, -pointing in the direction, whence he had just come, "but yonder is my -house," motioning with his head towards the _Cortijo de le las Habas_; -which, though about half a mile off, was yet visible in the dusk; "I -will send my jaded horse home by the boy, and accompany you on foot." - -The commanding officer, to whom this was addressed, made no objection; -in fact, he probably thought that their guide would be more in their -power without his horse. - -Alonzo gave his beast to the lad, saying significantly, "_Juanillo_, -tell my father I have fallen in with some friends and shall not be at -home for some little time; be quick; make your way back to the venta -without delay, as soon as you have delivered my message; and, as you -value your life,--no babbling." - -My son then turned off to the right, taking the best but far the most -circuitous route into the valley of Sanona, whilst _Juanillo_, putting -his horse into a canter, proceeded in the direction of the _Cortijo de -las Habas_, but, ere reaching it, struck into the difficult pass you see -below there, whence a rude foot-path leads direct to the _Casería_, and -by which he had intended to conduct the enemy. - -It seemed to us--what indeed proved to be the case--that my son's -message was intended to hint to us the necessity for flight, and -_Juanillo's_ account of the number of the enemy, would fully have -warranted our avoiding an encounter; but, thinking Alonzo's life would -surely pay the forfeit of our escape, we determined to anticipate their -attack and give him a chance of saving himself. - -Prudence suggested the propriety of sending away our women and children. -Mounting them, therefore, on _borricos_, we hurried them off by the -mountain path to the _Casa de Castañas_, or _de las Navas_, as it is -otherwise called, from the name of its proprietor--a solitary house, -situated in a wooded valley, several miles to the north of Sanona. - -The women had scarcely left the _Casería_, ere we heard the distant -tramp of horses in the valley below. Leaving a part of the soldiers to -defend the house, I led the rest, and my own people, out as silently as -possible, and posted them on the upper side of the path by which the -French were advancing. The enemy halted directly under the muzzles of -our guns, and a corporal and two dragoons were sent on to the house to -ask for a night's lodging. - -Nothing could be more favourable than the opportunity now presented for -attacking them, but I hesitated to give the word until I had discovered -my son, anxious as well to give him a chance of escape, as to save him -from our own fire. At last I recognised him: he was standing at the side -of the commander of the party, who, with a pistol in his hand, was -questioning him in a low tone of voice. - -The corporal now thundered at the gate of the _Casería_. "_Quien es?_" -demanded the soldiers from within. I listened to no more; for, observing -that the commander's attention was for the moment attracted to the -proceedings of his advanced guard, and that Alonzo, in consequence, was -comparatively out of his reach, "_Candela!_" I cried out to my people, -directing, at the same time, my own unerring rifle at the head of the -French captain. - -Twenty guns answered to the word. The commander of the enemy fell -headlong to the earth; his horse sprung violently off the ground, -reared, staggered, and fell back; a dozen Frenchmen bit the dust; the -rest turned and fled, ere we could reload our pieces. - -I pressed forward to embrace my brave son, but saw him not. I called him -by name, but a faint groan was the only reply I received. I turned in -the direction of the sound, and found the Frenchman's horse, struggling -in the agonies of death, upon the bleeding body of my Alonzo. He had -been wounded in the breast by the Frenchman's pistol, the trigger of -which had, apparently, been pressed in the convulsive movement -occasioned by his death-wound. The horse had been shot by one of our -men, had fallen upon Alonzo, and broken several of his ribs. We conveyed -him to the house, without a hope of his recovery. - -In the excess of my grief, I thought not of sending after the women. -Alonzo was the first to bring me to a sense of my remissness, by -enquiring for his wife and child. I expressed my joy at hearing him -speak, for he had lain many hours speechless. He pressed my hand, and -added, "Father, I wish to see them once again before I die--to have a -mother's blessing also--for I feel my end approaching." - -I instantly despatched four of my people to the _Casa de Castañas_ to -escort them back, for I recollected that the three Frenchmen who had -been sent forward to demand admission to the house, had effected their -escape, and must be, wandering about the mountains. - -The sun had risen some hours, and yet no tidings reached us of them. I -began to feel very uneasy. A terrible presentiment disturbed me. I went -to the iron cross that stands on the mound in front of our house, whence -a view is obtained of the pass leading to _Las Navas_. I heard a wild -scream, that pierced my very soul, and the moment after, caught a -glimpse of a female figure, hastening with mad speed down the rocky path -leading to the _Casería_. It was my daughter-in-law, Teresa! - -"See," she exclaimed, with frantic exultation, showing me her hands -stained with blood, "see--I killed him! my knife pierced the heart of -the murderer of my child! I killed the vile Frenchman! The wife of a De -Castro ever carries a knife to avenge her wrongs--to defend her honour!" - -That some terrible catastrophe had happened was too evident, but from -the unhappy maniac it was impossible to gather any thing definite. - -I mounted my horse, and rode with the speed of desperation towards the -_Casa de Castañas_, but had not proceeded far ere I met my people -returning, bearing my wife on a litter, and accompanied by two only of -the women who had accompanied her, mounted on _borricos_. - -"Dead?" I asked. It was the only word I could utter. - -"No, Luis," replied one of my faithful followers, "not dead, and, we -hope, not even seriously hurt; but evil has befallen your house--your -three young children and your grandson are lost to you for ever." - -"Lost! murdered? This is, indeed, a heavy blow, a severe trial. Perhaps -I am now childless;--God's will be done." - -"Proceed gently to the _Casería_ with your burthen; I will hasten -forward, and send assistance, and such cordials as may be required to -restore my Ana." - -On my return I was surprised to see Alonzo sitting up, and his wife at -his bedside. I cannot describe the joy of that moment; but there was a -fearful expression of determination in my son's contracted brows, that -almost led me to fear for his mind. He turned to me for explanation, but -as yet I could give him none. The party shortly arrived, however, and -the women gave us a full account of the overwhelming disaster that had -befallen us. - -On leaving the _Casería_ they had proceeded with such speed as the -darkness of the night permitted, towards the _Casa de Castañas_, and had -reached within a quarter of a league of the house, when the trampling of -horses behind them, spread the greatest alarm amongst these defenceless -females. It was clear that those who were in pursuit could not be their -friends, otherwise they would call to them to return; and concluding -therefore, that the enemy had prevailed at the _Casería_, naturally -considered their danger imminent. - -My wife and daughter-in-law, with their children, and three of the -women, being well mounted, pressed forward to the solitary house for -shelter; the others, finding the Frenchmen--whom they could now hear -conversing--gaining rapidly upon them, with more good fortune took to -the woods; and, as we eventually learnt, reached Los Barrios in safety. - -On arriving at the _Casa de Castañas_, it was found to be totally -abandoned. They had barely time to close the outer gate, and shut -themselves up in a loft,--that could be ascended only by a ladder, and -through a trap-door, which they let fall--before their pursuers rode up -to the house. At first the Frenchmen civilly demanded admission; but -this being refused, they--guessing, probably, how the case stood, from -none but female voices replying to their demands--proceeded to threaten -to force an entrance. - -My daughter-in-law, who speaks a few words of French, then appeared at -the window; told them it was an abandoned house, and contained -absolutely nothing, not even refreshment for their horses; that, by -keeping down the valley to the left, they would, in less than an hour, -reach the _Hermita of El Cuervo_, where they would find all they might -stand in need of. - -The beauty of her who addressed them--for in those days my -daughter-in-law was a lovely young woman of eighteen--awakened the most -lawless of passions in these ruthless profligates. Affecting, however, -to disbelieve her statement of the unprovided condition of the house, -they forced open the outer gate, and, after vainly endeavouring to -persuade the terrified females to descend from their place of refuge, -collected all the straw and other combustible articles that were -scattered about the premises, in the apartment beneath, and threatened -to set fire to the house. - -In vain was appeal made to their clemency, to the boasted gallantry of -their nation, to every honourable feeling that inhabits the breast of -man. And at length, exasperated at the determination of these devoted -women, and possibly--it is a compliment I am willing to pay human -nature--thinking that a little smoke would soon induce them to descend, -the reckless monsters fired the straw. The whole building was quickly -enveloped in flames. - -For some minutes the unhappy beings above thought that the straw, being -damp, would not ignite so as to communicate with the wooden rafters of -the floor which supported them, and hoped that they were free from -danger; but the smoke which ascended soon, of itself, became -intolerable. Two of my children dropped on the floor from the effects -of suffocation; and one of women, taking her infant in her arms, jumped -from the window and was killed on the spot. - -My daughter-in-law, seeing that for herself there was but a choice of -death,--for the flames had now burst through the crackling -floor,--determined to make an effort to save her child. Pressing him to -her bosom, and covering him with her shawl to protect him from the -flames in her descent, she lifted the trap-door and placed her foot upon -the ladder. The fire had yet spared the upper steps, but ere she reached -the bottom the charred wood gave way, and she fell. The child escaped -from her arms and rolled amongst the blazing straw; she started upon her -feet to save him, but the rude hand of one of the ruffians seized and -dragged her from the flames into the court-yard. Vainly she implored to -be allowed to go to the rescue of her helpless infant; the monster--even -at such a moment looking upon his victim with the eyes of lust--would -not listen to her heart-rending appeals. The agonizing screams of her -writhing offspring gave her superhuman strength; she seized her knife; -plunged it deep in the Frenchman's breast; and, released from his -paralyzed arms, rushed back into the flames. - -Alas! it was too late--nothing but the blackened skeleton now remained -of her darling child. - -She darted, with the fury of a tigress robbed of its young, upon one of -the other Frenchmen, but he disarmed her, and, with a returning feeling -of humanity, forbore inflicting any further injury upon the frantic -woman; and, after some apparent altercation with his companion, both -mounted their horses and rode away. They were just in time to make their -escape, as the four men I had despatched rode up to the front gate of -the house, as they went off by the other. - -One of my people was an inhabitant of the _Casa de Castañas_, and -knowing the premises, quickly brought a ladder from a place of -concealment, and applied it to the window of the burning portion of the -building. My wife and the other two women were brought down safely, -though all more or less scorched, but the floor gave way before the -children, who were lying in an insensible state from suffocation, could -be removed. - -I despatched an indignant remonstrance to the French general, on the -inhuman conduct of his troops towards helpless women and children; and -threatened, if the perpetrators were not signally punished, to hang -every one of his countrymen that might fall into my hands, but he never -deigned to answer my letter. - -Some weeks elapsed after these events, ere Alonzo could leave his couch; -and the enemy seemed now so fully occupied in pressing the siege of -Cadiz, that we were led to believe they entertained no idea of paying -the _Casería_ a second visit. - -Want of provisions, and still more of ammunition, had hitherto prevented -our being of much service, in harassing the enemy during their -operations; but, having obtained supplies from Algeciras, I determined -to follow up my remonstrance with a blow, and mustering all our -strength, to make an attempt to carry the enemy's post at _Casa Vieja_. - -For this purpose I fixed on the _Casa de Castañas_ for the general -rendezvous; that spot being more conveniently situated than Sanona, for -those who were to join our ranks from Castellar, Ximena, and other -places, and equally as near the projected point of attack. - -At the appointed day, I proceeded with my people to the place of -concentration. Alonzo had insisted on accompanying us, though yet hardly -able to cross a horse; but he thirsted for the blood of the destroyers -of his child and brothers. On reaching the _Casa de Castañas_, however, -his strength failed him, and he was obliged to remain there. - -Leaving _Pepito_, who sits there, then a beardless boy, to tend upon -Alonzo, and accompany him back to Sanona on the morrow, we departed on -our expedition. - -The chapel and few houses which compose the village of _Casa Vieja_, -are situated on the brow of a high hill overlooking a wide plain, -watered by the river Barbate. Not a bush interrupts the view for several -miles in any direction, so that to approach the place some -circumspection was requisite. I halted my men in the woods bordering the -Celemin--on the very spot, perhaps, where Muley Aben Hassan, King of -Granada, fixed his camp, when he sallied forth from Malaga to plunder -the estates of the Duke of Medina Sidonía--and sent one of my most -trustworthy followers on to reconnoitre, purposing, if a favourable -report was received, to make an attack at the point of day, trusting to -the shadows of night to conceal our march across the open plain. - -Our scout returned only a couple of hours before dawn. He had -experienced much difficulty in fording the Barbate, which was swollen by -recent rains. He brought us the startling news, that a considerable -French force had left Alcalá de los Gazules, the preceding day, to -penetrate into the mountains, and was now probably in our rear, either -at the _Casa de Castañas_ or at Sanona. - -It was necessary to fall back immediately. We were at the fork of the -roads leading from those two places to _Casa Vieja_, but on which should -we direct our march? My heart whispered, to the former, where my Alonzo, -the last of my race, was left defenceless; but the wives and families -of my companions were all at Sanona, and duty bade me hasten thither for -their protection. The struggle of my feelings was severe, but short. I -sent a trusty friend on a swift horse to save Alonzo, if time yet -permitted, and hurried the march of my troop to the _Casería_. We -reached it in three hours. - -We found every thing as we had left it. Those who had remained there had -neither seen nor heard anything of the enemy, but my son had not -returned home. I now regretted not having proceeded to the _Casa de -Castañas_, and proposed to my wearied men to march on and attack the -_Gavachos_ in their passage through the passes, fully expecting they -would now direct their steps to the _Casería_. They acceded to my -proposal with _vivas_. A cup of wine and a mouthful of bread were given -to each, and we were off. - -We had not yet gained the pass yonder, at the back of the house, when we -met the man I had sent to the _Casa de Castañas_, coming towards us at -full speed. He informed us that he had encountered the French when on -his way to _Las Navas_, directing their march towards _Casa Vieja_. -Fortunately escaping their observation, he had concealed himself in a -thicket whilst they passed. _Pepito_--whom, it will be recollected, I -had left with Alonzo--was walking by the side of one of their officers, -undergoing a strict examination respecting our movements, &c. They had -several other prisoners in charge, who were tied together in couples, -but he could not distinguish Alonzo amongst them. My son's favourite -dog, _Hubilon_, however, brought up the rear, led by one of the -marauders; and the faithful creature's oft-averted head and restive -attempts to escape, sufficiently proved that his master had been left -behind. - -Under this conviction, he had pushed on to the _Casa de Castañas_ as -soon as the enemy were out of sight, and had thoroughly searched every -part of the building; but not a living being did it contain. The pigeons -even had deserted it, or, more probably, had been sacrificed, for -feathers and bones were scattered about on all sides, the smoke of -numerous fires darkened the white-washed walls, and the stains of wine -were left on the stone pavement, proving that the house had lately been -the scene of a deep carouse. - -From this account, it was evident that the Frenchmen had marched upon -our track in the hope of taking us between two fires, and it was most -fortunate we had returned to Sanona, instead of falling back upon the -_Casa de Castañas_; for the superiority of their number, in a chance -encounter, would have given them every advantage. - -It was probable that the enemy would now continue their pursuit in -hopes of taking us by surprise at Sanona; we countermarched immediately -therefore, and passing the _Casería_, took up a strong position about -two miles beyond it, on the road to _Casa Vieja_, where we waited for -the enemy. - -We were not mistaken in our supposition, for scarcely were my men -posted, when the French advance appeared in sight. I allowed them to -approach to within pistol shot, and gave them a volley. My men were -scattered among the bushes, so that the extent of our fire made our -force appear much larger than it was in reality. We killed and wounded -several. - -The enemy paused, and seeing by their numbers that if they pushed boldly -on, resistance on our parts would be vain, I determined to try and -intimidate them; and taking for this purpose eight or ten active -fellows, we made our way through the brushwood which covered the hill -side on our left, and opened a flank fire upon the main body of the -enemy; who, imagining a fresh column had come to take part in the -action, fell back in some confusion to a place of greater security, and -one where they had more space to deploy their strength. - -We had effectually succeeded in frightening them, however, and no -further attempt was made to force our position; but it was not until the -next day that they finally left the mountains and retired to their -fortified posts of Casa Vieja and Alcalà. - -No sooner had I seen them fairly out of the Serranía, than I retraced my -steps with all possible speed to Sanona; still indulging the fond hope -that Alonzo might have made his escape and reached home; but, -disappointed in this expectation, I proceeded on without loss of time to -the _Casa de Castañas_. - -I had scarcely entered the house ere I was greeted by "_Hubilon_,"--ay, -my good dog, said Don Luis, caressing his pet, your grandsire--who -evidently had come on the same errand as myself. But our search was -fruitless. The well, the vaults, the lofts and out-houses, every place, -was ransacked, but I discovered nothing to lead to the belief that -Alonzo had either been left there or been murdered. I mounted my horse -to return home, and had proceeded some little way, when I heard the howl -of _Hubilon_. Thinking I had inadvertently shut him in the house, I sent -back one of my companions to release him, but he returned, saying that -the dog would not leave the spot. I returned myself, but the sagacious -animal was not to be enticed away; he gave evident signs of pleasure at -seeing me, and began scratching furiously at the boarded floor of one of -the interior apartments. I approached to see what it was that excited -his attention, and discovered a trap door. With some little difficulty -I raised it up, and _Hubilon_ instantly leapt into the dark abyss. His -piteous whining soon informed me that he had found the body of his -master; a light was struck; I let myself down, and on the stone floor of -the cold, damp vault lay the body of my unfortunate son; his hands were -tied behind his back, and a handkerchief was drawn across his mouth to -stifle his cries! - -To me it appeared that the spirit of my Alonzo had long left its earthly -tenement, but the affectionate brute, by licking his master's face, -proved that life was not yet entirely extinct. Assisted by my -companions, I lifted my son out of the noxious vault, and, by friction, -a dram of _aguadiente_, and exposure to the sun and a purer atmosphere, -animation was gradually restored; and in the course of a few days he was -able to bear the journey home; but from the effects of this confinement -he has never recovered. - -He had no recollection of any of the circumstances which preceded his -incarceration. A raging fever, brought on by fatigue and exposure to the -sun in his previously weak state, had affected his brain, as well as -deprived him of all strength. But _Pepito_ (who rejoined us a few days -after,) stated, that Alonzo himself, in his delirium, had declared to -the French on their arrival, who he was, and had besought them to put -an end to his sufferings. The superior officer of the party had -directed, however, that he should not be ill-treated; "what if he be the -son of the _old wild boar_?" (the name by which they honoured me,) said -he to his men; "we came not to murder our enemies in cold blood--carry -him into the house and let him die in peace." - -_Pepito_ guessed by the malignant glance of one Italian-looking -scoundrel--"I ask your pardon, Señor Damien," said Don Luis, in a -parenthesis; "_servitore umilissimo_," replied he of the _Val -d'Aosta_.--_Pépé_ guessed, I say, by the look that he who stepped -forward to execute the orders of his officer gave one of his companions, -whom he invited to assist him, that their superior's humane intentions -would not be fulfilled; he begged hard, therefore, to be allowed to -remain and wait upon his young master. "Impossible," replied the -officer, "you must be our guide." - -The two men were absent but a few minutes, and then came out of the -house and informed the officer that they had placed the rebel chief in -the coolest place they could find; probably their fear of Alonzo's cries -had deterred them from killing him outright. - -The abominable cruelties of these dastards exasperated every one. The -expedition which was at this time undertaken to raise the siege of Cadiz -promised to afford us a favourable opportunity of taking vengeance; but -the cowardice of a Spaniard--the cowardice, if not treason, of a Spanish -general--marred our fair prospects. The glorious field of Barrosa decked -with fresh laurels the brows of our brave allies; but, to this day, the -very name fills the breast of every loyal Spaniard with shame. Oh! that -I and my people had been thereto share the danger and glory of that day; -but we fulfilled with credit the part allotted to us. In the plan -adopted by the allied generals it was settled that the _Serraños_, -should make a diversion in the direction of _Casa Vieja_ and _Alcalà de -los Gazules_, to draw the enemy's attention on that side, whilst their -combined forces should proceed along the coast to Chiclana; accordingly -_io y mi gente_.... - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - DON LUIS'S NARRATIVE IS INTERRUPTED BY A BOAR--THE BATIDA - RESUMED--DEPARTURE FROM SANONA--ROAD TO CASA VIEJA--THE PRIEST'S - HOUSE--ADVENTURE WITH ITINERANT WINE-MERCHANTS--DEPARTURE FROM CASA - VIEJA--ALCALA DE LOS GAZULES--ROAD TO XIMENA--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR. - - -The old man, excited by the stirring recollections of the eventful times -to which his narrative referred, his eyes sparkling with animation, and -his words flowing somewhat more rapidly than in their wonted even -current, had risen from his rocky seat, and, having transferred his -fowling-piece to the left hand, was standing with his right arm extended -in the direction of the scene of his former exploits, when he suddenly -dropt his voice, and, after slowly, and, as it appeared to us, -abstractedly, repeating his favourite expression, "_Io y mi gente_," he -ceased altogether to speak, and appeared transfixed to the spot. His -right arm remained stretched out towards Cadiz, and his head was turned -slightly to one side, but the only motion perceptible was a tightening -of the fingers round the barrel of his long gun. - -As if from the effect of sympathy, Damien's jaws--which for the last -hour had been keeping _Hubilon_ in a state of tantalization, threatening -to produce St. Vitus's dance--suddenly became equally motionless; his -huge proboscis was turned on one side for a moment to allow free access -to his left ear, and then starting up he exclaimed, "_Javali! -cospetto!_"[110] - -"_Quiet ... o!_" said Don Luis, in an undertone, at the same time -motioning Damien to resume his seat, "_Si, es una puerca_."[111] And -then making signs to his men, they rose without a word, and went -stealthily off down the hill. - -We now distinctly heard the grunting of a pig, and were hastily -distributed in a semicircle, along the crest of the steep ridge we had -selected for our resting-place. We had scarcely got into position before -the cries of the beaters, and several shots fired in rapid succession, -gave us notice that they had come in sight of the chase; but the sounds -died away, and we were beginning to speak to each other in terms of -disappointment, when a loud grunt announced the vicinity of a visiter. -Hearing our voices, however, he went off at a tangent, and attempted to -cross the ridge lower down; but this was merely, as the Spaniards say, -"_Escapar del trueno y dar en el relampago_:"[112] a sharp fire there -opened upon him, and after various trips he was fairly brought to the -ground. Our _couteaux de chasse_ were instantly brandished, but the -grisly monster, recovering himself quickly, once more got into a long -trot, and, most probably, would have effected his escape, but that he -was encountered and turned back by some of the dogs. Finding himself -thus pressed on all sides by enemies, he again attempted to force the -line of sportsmen, and a second time was made to bite the dust. He -managed, nevertheless, to recover himself once more, and might, even yet -possibly, have got away from us but for the dogs, which hung upon and -detained him until some of the beaters came up and despatched him with -their knives; not, however, until he had killed one dog outright, and -desperately gored two others. The dogs showed extraordinary _pluck_ in -attacking him. - -On examining the huge monster, we found he had received no less than -four bullets: two in the neck, and two in the body. A fire was -immediately kindled, and, having been singed, to destroy the vermin -about him, he was decorated with laurel and holly, placed on the back of -a mule, and, with the rest of our spoils, sent off to the _Casería_. - -The beaters informed us, that they had seen the wild sow and four young -ones, which Don Luis had sent them after; but that they had made off -through the wooded valley to the right, ere they could succeed in -heading and turning them up the hill. - -It was decided that we should proceed immediately after them, and leave -the conclusion of Don Luis's tale for the charcoal fire-circle in the -evening; but, as the rest of his story related principally to events -that are well known, and was all "_Santiago y cierra España_,"[113] I -will spare my readers the recital. - -The rest of the day's sport was poor, but the grand and ever-varying -mountain scenery was of itself an ample reward for the fatigue of -scrambling up the steep braes. Towards sunset we retraced our steps, -thoroughly tired, to the _Casería_. Damien, mounting a stout mule, rode -on to prepare dinner, saying, "_Messieurs, sans doute, désireront goûter -du chevreuil de Sanone; vado avanti con questo motivo, e subito, subito, -all red-dy"_;[114] and, digging his heels into the animal's side, he -thereupon started off at a jog-trot, his huge feet sticking out at right -angles, like the paddle-boxes of a steamer, the smoke of a cigar rolling -away from his mouth, like the clouds from the steamer's tall black -funnel. - -On the following morning we departed from Sanona, taking the road to -Casa Vieja, and sending our game into Gibraltar. - -Don Luis would on no account receive any remuneration for the use of his -house, &c.; and a very moderate sum satisfied the beaters he had engaged -for us. - -The distance to Casa Vieja is about twelve miles, the country wild and -beautiful; but the view, after gaining a high pass, about three miles -from Sanona, is confined to the valley along which the road thenceforth -winds, until it reaches the river Celemin. This stream is frequently -rendered impassable by heavy rains. Emerging now from the woods and -mountains, the road soon reaches the Barbate, which river, though -running in a broad and level valley, is of a like treacherous character -as the Celemin. - -The little chapel and hamlet, whither we were directing our steps, now -became visible, being situated under the brow of a high hill on the -opposite bank of the river, and distant about a mile and a half. The -road across the valley is very deep in wet weather, and the Barbate is -often so swollen, as to render it necessary, in proceeding from Casa -Vieja to the towns to the eastward, to make a wide circuit to gain the -bridges of Vejer or Alcalà de los Gazules. - -We "put up" at the house of the village priest, which adjoins the -chapel. Indeed the portion of his habitation allotted to our use was -under the same roof as the church, and communicated with it by a private -door; and I have been credibly informed that, on some occasions, when -the party of sportsmen has been large, beds have been made up within the -consecrated walls of the chapel itself, whereon some of the visiters -have stretched their wearied heretical limbs and rested their _aching_ -heads. In our case there was no occasion to lead the _Padre_ into the -commission of such a sin, since the small apartment given up to us was -just able to contain four stretchers, in addition to a large table. - -The priest was another "_amigo mio de mucha aprec'ion_"[115] of Señor -Damien. Their friendship was based upon the most solid of all -foundations--mutual interest; for, it being an understood thing that the -accommodation, and whatever else we might require, was to be paid for at -a fixed rate, both parties were interested in prolonging our stay: the -_Padre_, to gain wherewith to shorten the pains of purgatory, either for -himself or others; Damien, simply because he liked shooting better than -even baking in this world. - -To us also this was an agreeable arrangement, since it granted us a -dispensation from all ceremony in ordering whatever we wanted, and gave -us also the privilege of making the Padre's house our home as long as we -pleased. Accordingly, finding the sport good, we passed several days -here very pleasantly. The snipe and duck shooting in the marshes -bordering the Barbate is excellent; francolins, bustards, plover, and -partridges, are to be met with on the table-lands to the westward of the -village; and the woods towards Alcalà and Vejer abound, at times, in -woodcocks. - -An adventure befel me during our short stay at Casa Vieja, which I -relate, as affording a ludicrous exemplification of the power of -flattery--an openness to which, that is to say, vanity, is certes the -great foible of the Spanish character. - -I had devoted one afternoon to a solitary ride to Vejer, (which town is -about eleven miles from Casa Vieja,) and had proceeded some little -distance on my way homewards, when, observing a very curious bird on a -marshy spot by the road-side, I dismounted--knowing my pony would not -stand fire--to take a shot at it. The gun missed fire, as I expected it -would; for, in consequence of its owner not having been able to -discharge it during the whole morning, I had lent him mine to visit the -snipe-marsh, and taken his to bear me company on my ride. The explosion -of the detonating cap was enough, however, to frighten my pony; he -started--jerked the bridle off my arm--and, finding himself free, -trotted away towards Casa Vieja. - -I ran after him for some distance, fondly hoping that the tempting green -herbage on the road-side would induce him to stop and taste, but my -accelerated speed had only the effect of quickening his; from a trot he -got into a canter, from a canter into a gallop; and, panting and -perspiring, I was soon obliged to abandon the chase, and trust that the -animal's natural sagacity would take him back to his stable. - -I had long lost sight of the runaway--for a thick wood soon screened him -from my view,--and had arrived within four miles of Casa Vieja, when I -met a party of very suspicious-looking characters, who, under the -pretence of being itinerant _wine-merchants_, were carrying contraband -goods about the country. They were all very noisy; all, seemingly, very -tipsy; and most of them armed with guns and knives. - -The van was led by a fat Silenus-looking personage, clothed in a shining -goatskin, and seated on a stout ass, between two well-filled skins of -wine; who saluted me with a very gracious wave of the hand, evidently to -save himself the trouble of speaking; but his followers greeted me with -the usual "_Vaya usted con Dios_;" to which one wag added, in an -undertone, "_y sin caballo_,"[116]--a piece of wit that put them all on -the grin. - -Regardless of their joke, I was about to make enquiries concerning my -pony, which it was evident they knew something about, when I discovered -a stout fellow, bringing up the rear of the party, astride of the -delinquent. Considering the disparity of force, and aware of the -unserviceable condition of my weapon, I thought it best to be remarkably -civil, so informing the gentleman riding my beast that I was its owner, -and extremely obliged to him for arresting the fugitive's course, I -requested he would only give himself the further trouble of dismounting, -and putting me in possession of my property. - -This, however, he positively refused to do. "How did he know I was the -owner? It might be so, and very possibly was, but I must go with him to -Vejer, and make oath to the fact before _la Justicia_." This, I said, -was out of the question: it was evident that the horse was mine, since I -had claimed him the moment I had seen him; and as, by his own admission, -he had found the animal, he must have done so out of my sight, since we -were now in a thick wood. If, I added, he chose to return with me to -Casa Vieja, the _Padre_, at whose house I was staying, would convince -him of the truth of my statement, and I would remunerate him for his -trouble. But I argued in vain! "If," he replied, "I felt disposed to -give him an _onza_,[117] he would save _me_ further trouble, but -otherwise justice must take its course." - -I remarked that the _haca_ was not worth much more than a doubloon. -"No!" exclaimed one of the party, jumping off his mule, thrusting his -hand into his belt, and producing _two_, "I'll give you these without -further bargaining." - -This occasioned a laugh at my expense. I turned it off, however, by -telling my friend, that if he would bring his money to Gibraltar we -might possibly deal; but, as I had occasion for my pony to carry me back -there, I could not at that moment conveniently part with him. - -There seemed but slight chance, however, of my recovering my pony -without trudging back to Vejer; and, probably, they would have ridden -off, and laughed at me, after proceeding half way; or by paying a -handsome ransom, which I was, in fact, unable to do, having only the -value of a few shillings about me. - -The dispute was getting warm, and my patience exhausted; for vain were -my representations that the _haca could_ belong to no one else--that the -saddle, bridle, and even the very _tail_ of the animal, were all -English. The Don kept his seat, and coolly asked, whether I thought -they could not make as good saddles, and cut as short tails, in Spain? - -The party had halted during this altercation, and old Silenus, who, by -his dress and position, seemed to be the head of the _firm_, had taken -no part in the dispute. He appeared, indeed, to be so drowsy, as to be -quite unconscious of what was passing. I determined, however, to make an -appeal to him, and summoning the best Spanish I could muster to my aid, -called upon him as a Spanish _hidalgo_, a man of honour, and a person of -sense, as his appearance bespoke, to see justice done me. - -He had heard, I continued, in fact he had _seen_, how the case stood; -and was it to be believed that a foreigner travelling in Spain--perhaps -the most enlightened country in the world--and trusting to the -well-known national probity, should be thus shamefully plundered? An -Englishman, above all others, who, having fought in the same ranks -against a common enemy, looked upon every individual of the brave -Spanish nation as a brother! Could a people so noted for honour, -chivalry, gratitude, and every known virtue, be guilty of so bare-faced -an imposition? - -Oh, "flattery! delicious essence, how refreshing art thou to nature! how -strongly are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side!" - -"_Baj' usted!_" grunted forth Silenus to the man mounted on my pony, -accompanying the words with a circular motion of his right arm towards -the earth. "_Baj' usted luego!_"[118] repeated the irate leader in a -louder tone, seeing that there was a disposition to resist his commands. -"Mount your horse, caballero," he continued, turning to me, "you have -not over-estimated the Spanish character." - -I did not require a second bidding, but, vaulting into the vacated -saddle, pushed my pony at once into a canter, replying to the man's -application for something for his trouble, by observing, that I did not -reward people for merely obeying the orders of their superiors; and, -kissing my hand to the fat old Satyr, rode off, amidst the laughter -occasioned by the discomfiture of the dismounted knight. - -On the morning fixed for our departure from Casa Vieja, Damien came to -us at a very early hour--a smile breaking through an assumed cloudy -expression of countenance--to report that the Barbate was so swollen by -the rain which had fallen without cessation during the night, as to be -no longer fordable: "_Nous pouvons demeurer encore trois ou quatre -jours_," he added, "_car il nous reste de quoi manger--du thé, du sucre, -du jambon, un bon morceau de bouilli de rosbif, et autres bagatelles; et -comme il fait beau temps à présent, puede ser que havra una entrada de -gallinetas esta noche--no es verdad Señor Padre?_"[119] turning to the -priest, who had followed him into the room. - -We were prepared for this contingency, however, and, stating that we -_must_ go, signified our intention of returning home by way of Alcalà de -los Gazules. Damien was horror-struck. "_Corpo di Bacco! Messieurs, -celle là est la plus mauvaise route du pays! è infestata di cattivissima -gente, ad ogni passo. No es verdad, Don Diego, que esa trocha de Alcalà -allà 'se llama el camino del infierno!_" "_Si, si_," replied the -priestly lodging-house keeper with a nod, "_tan verdad como la Santa -Escritura._"[120] - -Finding, however, that we were bent on departing, Don Diego went to make -his bill out; and Damien, now truly alarmed, proposed that, at all -events, we should take the shorter and more practicable route homewards, -by way of Vejer. But the name of the other had taken our fancy, and -orders were given accordingly, our departure being merely postponed -until the afternoon; for, as it would be necessary to sleep at Alcalà, -which is but nine miles from Casa Vieja, we agreed to have another brush -at the snipes ere leaving the place. - -In the afternoon we set out. At two miles from Casa Vieja the road -crosses a tributary stream to the Barbate, which reached up to our -saddle-girths, and then traverses some wooded hills for about an equal -distance. The rest of the way is over an extensive flat. - -Little is seen of Alcalà but an old square tower, and the ruined walls -of its Moorish castle, in approaching it on this side. The town is built -on a rocky peninsulated eminence, which, protruding from a ridge of -sierra that overlooks the place to the east, stretches about a mile in a -southerly direction, and, excepting along the narrow neck that connects -it with this mountain-range, is every where extremely difficult of -access. A road, however, winds up to the town by a steep ravine on the -south-eastern side of the rugged eminence; and a good approach has also -been made, though with much labour, at its northern extremity. The river -Barbate washes the western side of the mound, and across it, and -somewhat above the town--which is huddled together along the northern -crest of the ridge--a solid stone bridge presents itself, where the -roads from Casa Vieja, Medina Sidonia, and Xeres, concentrate. - -The ascent from the bridge, as I have mentioned, is good, but very -steep. The position of the town is most formidable; its walls, however, -are all levelled; and, of the castle, the square tower, or keep, alone -remains. The streets are narrow, but not so steep as we expected to find -them, and they are remarkably well paved. The houses are poor, though -some trifling manufactories of cloths and tanneries give the place a -thriving look. Its population amounts to about 9000 souls. - -_This_ Alcalà receives its distinctive name of "_los Gazules_" (i.e. the -Castle of the Gazules), from a tribe of Moors so called; but what Roman -city stood here is a mere matter of conjecture. - -The inn afforded but indifferent accommodation; but our host and hostess -were obliging people, and very good-naturedly made over to us the olla -prepared for their own supper. It was a fine specimen of the culinary -art; the savoury odour alone, that exuded from the bubbling stew, drew a -smile from Damien's unusually lugubrious countenance; and, on afterwards -witnessing the justice we did to its merits, he kindly wished--with a -doubt-implying compression of the lips--that we might have as good an -appetite to enjoy as good a supper on the following night. - -We set out at daybreak, accompanied by a guide, though, I think, we -could have dispensed with his services. The road enters the Serranía, -immediately on leaving Alcalà, taking an easterly direction, and -ascends for five miles by a rock-bound valley, partially under -cultivation, and watered by several streams, along which mills are -thickly scattered. On leaving them behind, the country becomes very wild -and desolate; the mountains ahead appear quite impracticable; and, long -ere we reached their base, the Piedmontese march had several times -resounded through the rocky gorges that encompassed us. - -At length we began to scramble up towards a conical pinnacle, called _El -Peñon de Sancho_,[121] which presents a perpendicular face, to the -south-west, of some hundreds of feet, and whose white cap, standing out -from the dark sierra behind, is a landmark all along the coast from -Cipiona to Cape Trafalgar. - -We soon attained a great elevation, crossing a pass between the _Peñon -de Sancho_ and the main sierra on our left. The view, looking back -towards Cadiz, is magnificent, and the scenery for the next four miles -continues to be of the most splendid kind, the road being conducted -along the side of the great sierra _Monteron_, and by the pass of _La -Brocha_ to the sierra _Cantarera_. - -The road is by no means so bad as, from the name it bears, we were -prepared to expect; in fact, there are many others in the Serranía of a -far more infernal character. After riding about four hours--a distance -of twelve miles--we reached a verdant little vale, enclosed on all sides -by rude mountains, wherein the Celemin takes its rise, and whence it -wends its way through a deep and thickly wooded ravine to the south. -This gullet is called the _Garganta de los Estudientes_, from the -circumstance, as our guide informed us, of some scholars having ventured -down it who never afterwards were heard of--to which story Damien -listened with great dismay. - -We halted at this delightful spot for half an hour, as well to breathe -our horses as to examine the contents of Damien's _alforjas_, who took -his meal, pistol in hand, for fear of a surprise. Continuing our -journey, we had to traverse some more very difficult country, the views -from which were now towards Ximena, Casares, Gibraltar, and the -Mediterranean; including an occasional peep of Castellar, as we advanced -to the eastward. - -At four miles and a half from our resting-place, the road branches into -two, the left proceeding to Ximena (five miles and a half), the other -leading toward Estepona, and the towns bordering the Mediterranean. -Taking the latter path, in about two hours we reached the river -Sogarganta, along the right bank of which is conducted the main road -from Ximena to Gibraltar. - -Damien's countenance brightened on his once more finding himself in "_un -pays reconnu_," and, turning joyfully into the well-known track, he -struck up one of his most _scherzosa_ arias; the heretofore dreaded -_Boca de Leones_ and Almoraima forest (which we had yet to pass), being -robbed of their terrors by the superior dangers we had safely -surmounted; and, in the words of the favourite poet of his country, - - _"Dopo sorte si funesta_ - _Sarà placida quest alma_ - _E godrà--tornata in calma--_ - _I perigli rammentar."_ - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - DEPARTURE FOR MADRID--CORDON DRAWN ROUND THE CHOLERA--RONDA--ROAD - TO CORDOBA--TEBA--ERRONEOUS POSITION OF THE PLACE ON THE SPANISH - MAPS--ITS LOCALITY AGREES WITH THAT OF ATEGUA, AS DESCRIBED BY - HIRTIUS, AND THE COURSE OF THE RIVER GUADALJORCE WITH THAT OF THE - SALSUS--ROAD TO CAMPILLOS--THE ENGLISH-LOVING INNKEEPER AND HIS - WIFE--AN ALCALDE'S DINNER SPOILT--FUENTE DE PIEDRA--ASTAPA--PUENTE - DON GONZALO--RAMBLA--CORDOBA--MEETING WITH AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. - - -The next and last excursion of which I purpose extracting some account -from my notebook, was commenced with the intention of proceeding from -Gibraltar to Madrid, late in the autumn of the year 1833; at which time, -the cholera having broken out in various parts of the kingdom of -Seville, it was necessary to "shape a course" that should not subject my -companion and self to the purifying process of a lazaret; a rigid -quarantine system having been adopted by the other kingdoms bordering -the infected territory. - -We hired three horses for the journey; that is to say, for any portion -of it we might choose to perform on horseback: two for ourselves, and -one to carry our portmanteaus, as well as the _mozo_ charged with their -care and our guidance. - -We found, on enquiry, that by avoiding two or three towns lying upon the -road, we could reach Cordoba without deviating much from the direct -route to that city, whence we purposed continuing our journey to the -capital by the diligence. We proceeded accordingly to Ronda, which place -being in the kingdom of Granada, was open to us; and thither I will at -once transport my readers, the road to it having already been fully -described. After sojourning a couple of days at the little capital of -the Serranía, comforting my numerous old and kind friends with the -opinion (which the event, I was happy to find, confirmed), that the new -enemy against which their country had to contend--the dreaded -cholera--would not cross the mountain barrier that defended their city; -we proceeded on our journey, taking the road to Puente Don Gonzalo, on -the Genil, thereby avoiding Osuna, which lay upon the direct road to -Cordoba, but in the infected district. - -In an hour from the time of our leaving Ronda, we crossed the rocky -gulley which has been noticed as traversing the fertile basin in which -the city stands, laterally, bearing the little river Arriate to irrigate -its western half, and in the course of another hour reached the northern -extremity of this fruitful district. The hills here offer an easy egress -from the rock-bound basin; but, though nature has left this one level -passage through the mountains, art has taken no advantage of it to -improve the state of the road, for a viler _trocha_ is not to be met -with, even in the rudest part of the Serranía. - -The view of the rich plain and dark battlements of Ronda is remarkably -fine. - -After winding amongst some round-topped hills, the road at length -reaches a narrow rocky pass, which closes the view of the vale of Ronda, -and a long deep valley opens to the north, the mouth of which appears -closed by a barren mountain, crowned by the old castle of _Teba_. - -The path now undergoes a slight improvement, and, after passing some -singular table-rocks, and leaving the little village of _La Cueva del -Becerro_ on the left, reaches the _venta de Virlan_. We, however, had -inadvertently taken a track that, inclining slightly to the right, led -us into the bottom of the valley, and in about four miles (from the -pass) brought us to the miserable little village of _Serrato_. The -proper road, from which we had strayed, keeps along the side of the -hills, about half a mile off, on the left; and upon it, and three miles -from the first venta, is another, called _del Ciego_. Yet a little -further on, but situated on an elevated ridge overlooking the valley, is -the little town of _Cañete la Real_. - -From Serrato our road led us to the old castle of Ortoyecar, ere -rejoining the direct route; which it eventually does, about a mile -before reaching the foot of the mountain of Teba. - -This singular feature is connected by a very low pass with the chain of -sierra on the left, and, stretching from west to east about -three-quarters of a mile, terminates precipitously along the river -_Guadaljorce_. The road, crossing over the pass, and leaving on the -right a steep paved road, that zig-zags up the mountain, winds round to -the west, keeping under the precipitous sides of the ridge, and avoiding -the town of Teba, which, perched on the very summit, but having a -northern aspect, can only be seen when arrived at the north side of the -rude mound; and there another winding road offers the means of access to -the place. - -The base of the mountain is, on this side, bathed by a little rivulet -that flows eastward to the Guadaljorce, called the _Sua de Teba_. It is -erroneously marked on the Spanish maps as running on the south side of -the ridge, but the only stream which is there to be met with, is a -little rivulet that takes its rise near Becerro and waters the valley by -which we had descended; and it does not approach within a mile of Teba, -but sweeps round to the eastward a little beyond the old castle of -Ortoyecar, and discharges itself into the river Ardales. - -The deep-sunk banks and muddy bottom of the _Suda de Teba_, render it -impassable excepting at the bridge. This rickety structure is apparently -the same which existed in the time of Rocca, who, in his "Memoirs of the -War in Spain," gives a very spirited account of the military operations -of the French and _serranos_ in this neighbourhood. - -The locality of Teba is most faithfully described by that author; indeed -I know no one who has given so graphic an account of this part of Spain -generally. - -The ascent to the town on this (the northern) side, is yet more -difficult than that in the opposite direction; but the place will amply -repay the labour of a visit, for the view from it is extremely fine, and -the extensive ruins of its ancient defences, evidently of Roman -workmanship, are well worthy of observation. - -The position of Teba, with reference to other places in the -neighbourhood, and to the circumjacent country, is so inaccurately given -in all maps which I have seen, that the antiquaries seem quite to have -overlooked it as the probable site of _Ategua_, so celebrated for its -obstinate defence against Julius Cæsar. - -Morales--without the slightest grounds, as far as the description of the -country accords with the assumption--imagined _Ategua_ to have stood -where he maintains some ruins, "called by the country-people _Teba la -Vieja_," are to be seen between Castrò el Rio and Codoba; but, as I -pointed out in the case of Ronda, and Ronda _la Vieja_, it is absurd to -suppose that an _old Teba_ could ever have existed, since Teba itself is -a Roman town, and its present name a mere corruption of that which it -bore in times past. - -Other Spanish authors place _Ategua_ at Castro el Rio, some at Baena, -some elsewhere; but almost all appear anxious to fix its site near the -river Guadajoz, which they have determined, in their own minds, must be -the _Salsus_ mentioned by Hirtius. - -La Martinière, with his usual _inaccuracy_, says, that the Guadajoz -falls into the _Salado_: he should rather have said, that it is _formed_ -from the confluence of _various salados_; for, as I have elsewhere -observed, salado is a general term for all water-courses, and not the -name of a river.[122] - -It seems, however, probable, that the Romans gave the name _Salsus_ to -some river impregnated with salt, which many streams in this part of -Spain are; and since there is an extensive salt-lake still existing near -Alcaudete, on the very margin of the Guadajoz, that river has hastily -been concluded to be that of the Roman historian. But, it appears -strange, if the Guadajoz be the Salsus of Hirtius, that Pliny, when -describing the course of the Boetis, and the principal streams which -fell into it, should have omitted to mention that river, as being one of -its affluents; for the Salsus, from the recentness of the war between -Cæsar and the sons of Pompey, must have been much spoken of in Pliny's -time. - -But what, to me, proves most satisfactorily that the _Guadajoz_ is _not_ -the Salsus, is, that it so ill agrees with the minute description given -of the river by Hirtius himself;--for, in speaking of the Salsus he -says,[123] "It runs through the plains, and _divides_ them from the -mountains, which all lie upon the side of Ategua, at about two miles' -distance from the river;" and again, "But what proved principally -favourable to Pompey's design of drawing out the war, was the nature of -the country, (i. e. about Ategua) full of mountains, and extremely well -adapted to encampments;"[124] and, from what again follows, it is -evident that Ategua stood upon the summit of a mountain. - -Now the Guadajoz nowhere runs so as to _divide_ the plains from the -mountains. It _issues from_ the mountains of Alcalà Real, many miles -before reaching Castrò el Rio, and between that last-named town and -Cordoba, there is no ground that can be called mountainous. - -The country bordering the Guadajoz, in the lower part of its course, -differs as decidedly with the statement that the neighbourhood of Ategua -was "full of mountains," if we suppose the town to have stood anywhere -_below_ Castrò el Rio. - -It is again improbable that Ategua could have stood on the site of the -supposed _Teba la Vieja_, or any place in that neighbourhood, since it -is mentioned[125] as being a great provision dépôt of the Pompeians; -which would scarcely have been the case had it been within twenty miles -of the city of Cordoba. And again, it is not likely that Cæsar would -have commenced the campaign by laying siege to a place within such a -short distance of Cordoba, since the invested town might so readily have -received succour from that city, and his adversary would, by such a -step, have had the advantage of combining all his forces to attack him -during the progress of the siege. - -Again, another objection presents itself, namely, that Ategua is -represented as a particularly strong place,[126] which, from the nature -of the ground in that part of the country--that is, between Castrò el -Rio and Cordoba--no town could well have been; situation, rather than -art, constituting the strength of towns in those days. - -We will now return to Teba, the locality of which agrees infinitely -better with the account of Ategua given by Hirtius, whilst the River -_Guadaljorce_, which flows in its vicinity, answers perfectly his -description of the Salsus; for, along its right bank a plain extends all -the way to the Genil; on its left, "at two miles' distance," rises a -wall of Sierra; and the whole country, beyond, is "full of mountains, -all lying on the side of" Teba. That is to say, the mountain range -continues in the same direction, and possesses the same marked -character, although the Guadaljorce breaks through it ere reaching so -far west as Teba; for, by a vagary of nature, this stream quits the wide -plain of the Genil to throw itself into a rocky gorge, and after -describing a very tortuous course, gains, at length, the vale of Malaga. - -Now this very circumstance strikes me, on attentive consideration, as -tending rather to strengthen than otherwise the supposition that Teba -is Ategua; for Cæsar's army is not stated to have _crossed_ the Salsus -on its march from Cordoba to Ategua; from which we must conclude that -Ategua was on the _right_ bank of the river; whilst other circumstances -prove that the town was some distance from the river, and encompassed by -mountains. - -Pompey, however, following Cæsar from Cordoba, and proceeding to the -relief of Ategua, _crosses the Salsus_, and fixes his camp "on these -mountains (i. e. the mountains 'which all lie on the side of Ategua') -between Ategua and Ucubis, but within sight of both places," being, as -is distinctly said afterwards, separated from his adversary by the -Salsus. - -Thus, therefore, though his camp was on the same range of mountains as -Ategua, yet he was separated from that town by a river: a peculiarity, -in the formation of the ground, which suits the locality of Teba, but -would be difficult to make agree with any other place. - -The only very apparent objection to this hypothesis is, that Cæsar's -cavalry is mentioned as having, on one occasion, pursued the foraging -parties of his adversary "almost to the very walls of Codoba." But this -was when Pompey (after his first failure to relieve Ategua) had drawn -off his army towards Cordoba. It does not follow, therefore, that -Cæsar's troops pursued his adversary's parties from Ategua, though he -was still besieging that place, but it may rather be supposed that his -cavalry was sent after the enemy to harass them on their march, and -watch their future movements. - -One might, indeed, on equally good grounds, maintain that Ategua was -_within a day's march of Seville_; since, on Pompey's finally abandoning -the field, Hirtius says,[127] "the same day he decamped, (from Ucubis, -which was within sight of Ategua) and posted himself in an olive wood -over against Hispalis." - -With respect to this knotty point of distance it is further to be -observed, that on Cæsar's breaking up his camp from before Cordoba, his -march is spoken of as being _towards_ Ategua, implying that the two -places did not lie within a day's march of each other; and the -supposition that they were more than a few leagues apart is strengthened -by the place, and order in which Ategua is mentioned by the methodical -Pliny; viz., amongst the cities lying between the Boetis and the -Mediterranean Sea, and next in succession to _Singili_,[128] which, -doubtless, was on the southern bank of the Genil, towards Antequera. - -The Guadaljorce has as good claims to the name of _Salsus_, as any other -river in the country, since the mountains about Antequera, amongst -which it takes its rise, were in former days noted for the quantity of -salt they produced; and though the river Guadaljorce now carries its -name to the sea, yet, in the time of the Romans, such was not the case; -for, in those days, by whatever name that river may have been -distinguished, it was dropt on forming its junction with the Sigila, -(now the Rio Grande) in the _vega_ of Malaga, although, of the two, the -latter is the inferior stream. - -The fort of Ucubis, stated by Hirtius to have been destroyed by Cæsar, -we may suppose stood on the side of the mountains overlooking the Salsus -or Guadaljorce, towards Antequera; and it does not seem improbable that -that city is the _Soricaria_ mentioned by the same historian; for -_Anticaria_, though noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is not -amongst the cities of Boetica enumerated by Pliny. - -Teba was taken from the Moors by Alphonso XI., A.D. 1340. The -inhabitants are a savage-looking tribe, and boast of having kept the -French at bay during the whole period of the "war of independence."[129] - -There is a tolerable venta at the foot of the hill, near the bridge, at -which we baited our horses. The distance from Ronda to Teba is 21 miles; -from hence to Campillos is about six; the country is undulated, and -road good, crossing several brooks, some flowing eastward to the -Guadaljorce, others in the opposite direction to the Genil. - -Campillos is situated at the commencement of a vast track of perfectly -level country, that extends all the way to the river Genil. By some -strange mistake it is laid down in the Spanish maps due east of Teba, -whereas it is nearly north. It is four leagues (or about seventeen -miles) from Antequera, and five leagues from Osuna. It is a neat town, -clean, and well-paved, and contains 1000 _vecinos escasos_;[130] which -may be reckoned at 5000 souls, six being the number usually calculated -per _vecino_. - -Campillos lies just within the border of the kingdom of Seville, and -was, therefore, on forbidden ground; since, had we entered it, our clean -bills of health would have been thereby tainted. We were consequently -obliged to skirt round the town at a tether of several hundred yards. I -regretted this much, for the place contains an excellent _posada_, -bearing the--to Protestant ears--somewhat profane sign of "_Jesus -Nazarino_," and its keepers were old cronies of mine, our friendship -having commenced some years before under rather peculiar circumstances, -viz., in travelling from Antequera to Ronda, my horse met with an -accident which obliged me to halt for the night at Campillos. Leaving to -my servant the task of ordering dinner at the inn, I proceeded on foot -to examine the town, and gain, if possible, some elevated spot in its -vicinity whence I could obtain a good view of the country, being -desirous to correct the mistake before alluded to, in the relative -positions of Teba and Campillos on the maps. - -Having found a point suited to this purpose, from whence I could see -both Teba and the _Peñon de los Enamorados_, (a remarkable conical -mountain near Antequera,) I drew forth a pocket surveying compass, and -took the bearings of those two points, as well as of several other -conspicuous objects in the neighbourhood. - -These ill-understood proceedings caused the utmost astonishment to a -group of idlers, who, at a respectful distance, but with significant -nods and mysterious whisperings, were narrowly watching my operations. -These concluded, and the result of my observations committed to my -pocket-book, I took a slight outline sketch of the bold range of -mountains that stretches towards Granada, and returned to the inn. - -On my first arrival there, I had merely addressed the usual compliment -of the country to the innkeeper and his wife, and now, repeating my -salutation to the lady--who only was present--I seated myself at the -fire-place of the common apartment, and began writing in my pocket-book, -replying very laconically to her various attempts at conversation; and -at length obtaining no immediate answer to another endeavour to _draw me -out_, she said, addressing herself, "_no entiende_,"[131] and offered no -further interruptions to my scribbling. - -I confess to the practice of a little deceit in the matter, as my -answers certainly must have led her to believe that I was a very _tyro_ -at the Spanish vocabulary--a fancy in which I used often to indulge the -natives when I wished to shirk conversation. - -Soon afterwards the _Posadero_ came in, and a whispered communication -took place between him and his spouse, which gradually acquiring _tone_, -I at length was able to catch distinctly, and heard the following -conversation. - -"You are quite certain he does not understand Spanish?" said mine host. - -"Not a syllable," replied his helpmate. - -"He is about no good here, wife, that I can tell you." - -"There does not appear to be much mischief in him." - -"We must not trust to looks; I was at the chapel of the Rosario just -now, and he walked up there, took an instrument from his pocket, marked -down all the principal points of the country, and then drew them in that -little book he is now writing in ... are you quite sure he does not -understand Spanish?--I observed him smile just now." - -"_No tienes cuidado_,"[132] replied the wife; "I have tried him on all -points." - -"Depend upon it he is _mapeando el pais_,"[133] resumed the husband. - -"I think you ought forthwith to give notice of his doings to the -_Justicia_," answered the lady. - -"Ay, and lose a good customer by having him taken to prison!" rejoined -the patriotic innkeeper; "time enough to do that in the morning after he -has paid his bill; but as to the propriety of giving information wife, I -agree with you perfectly." - -"He must be one of the rascally _gavachos_ from Cadiz," (a French -garrison at this time occupied that fortress,) "but what right has he to -take his notes of our _pueblo_?[134] I thought of questioning the -servant, who does speak a few words of Spanish, before he took the -horses to the smithy, but Don Guillelmo came in and put it out of my -head. Suppose I make another attempt to find out from himself what -brings him here?" - -"Do so," said her lord and master; and, with this permission, she -advanced towards me with a very gracious smile, and _articulating_ every -syllable most distinctly, in the hope of making her interrogation -perfectly intelligible, "begged to know if my worship was a Frenchman." - -"_Yo_," said I, pointing to myself, as if I did not clearly understand -her; "_nix_." - -"_Ingles?_" demanded she, returning to the charge. - -"_Si_," replied I, with a nod affirmative. - -"_Valga mi Dios!_" exclaimed she, turning to her husband; "he is -English! how delighted I am! what a time it is since I saw an -Englishman! how can we make him comfortable?" - -"_Poco a poco_,"[135] observed the inn-keeper--"English or French he has -no business to be _mapeando_ our country, and the Alcalde ought to know -of it." - -"_Disparate!_"[136] exclaimed the wife; "what does his _mapeando_ -signify if he is an Englishman? are they not our best friends?[137] Is -it not the same as if a Spaniard were doing it, only that it will be -better done?" - -"Very true," admitted mine host; "they have, indeed, been our friends, -and will soon again, I trust, give us a proof of their friendship, by -assisting to drive these French scoundrels across the Pyrenees, and -allowing us to settle our own differences." - -Pocketing my memorandum book, I now rose from my seat and addressing the -landlady, "_con gentil donayre y talante_,"[138] as Don Quijote says, -asked, in the best Castillian I could put together, when it was probable -I should have dinner, as from having been the greater part of the -morning on horseback, I was not only very hungry, but should be glad to -retire early to my bed. - -Never were two people more astonished than mine host and his spouse at -this address. Had I detected them in the act of pilfering my saddlebags, -they could not have looked more guilty. They offered a thousand -apologies, but seemed to think the greatest affront they had put upon me -was that of mistaking me for a Frenchman. - -"I ought at once to have known you were no braggart _gavacho_," said the -landlord, "by your not making a noise on entering the house--calling for -every thing and abusing every body--How do you think one of these -gentry, who came into Spain as _friends_, to tranquillize the country, -behaved to our _Alcalde_? The Frenchman wanted a billet, and finding the -office shut, went to the _Alcalde's_ house for it. The _Alcalde_ was at -dinner with a couple of friends; he begged the officer to be seated, -saying he would send for the _Escribano_ and have a billet made out for -him--'And am I to be kept waiting for your clerk?' said the Frenchman; -'a pretty joke, indeed.' 'He will be here in an instant,' said the -_Alcalde_; 'pray have a little patience, and be seated.' 'Patience, -indeed!' exclaimed the other; 'make the billet out directly yourself, or -I'll pull the house about your ears.' '_Juicio!_ señor,' replied the -Mayor; 'do you not see that I am at dinner?' 'What are you at _now_?' -said the Frenchman; and, laying hold of one corner of the tablecloth, he -drew it, plates, dishes, glasses, and every thing, off the table. This -is the way our French _friends_ behave to us!" - -I now satisfied the worthy couple that their fears of mischief arising -from my "_mapeando el pais_," were quite groundless; and mine host -showed great intelligence in comprehending what I wished to correct in -the Spanish map; the error in which he saw at once, when I pointed to -the setting sun; his wife standing by and exclaiming "_que gente tan -fina los Ingleses_!"[139] - -No advantage was taken of the knowledge of _my_ country in making out -_the bill_, and I departed next morning with their prayers that I might -travel in company with all the saints in the calendar. - -The direct road from Campillos to Cordoba is by way of La Rodd; but, in -the present instance, it was necessary to avoid that town, and proceed -to _La Fuente de Piedra_, which is situated a few miles to the eastward, -and without the sanitory circle drawn round the cholera. - -The distance from Campillos to this place is two long leagues, which may -be reckoned nine miles. - -_La Fuente de Piedra_ is a small village, of about sixty houses, -surrounded with olive-grounds, and abounding in crystal springs. The -medicinal virtues of one of these sources (which rises in the middle of -the place) led to the building of the village; and the painful disease -for which in especial this fountain is considered a sovereign cure, has -given its name to the place. We arrived very late in the evening, and -found the _posada_ most miserable. - -On leaving _La Fuente de Piedra_ we took the road to _Puente Don -Gonzalo_, and at about three miles from the village crossed the great -road from Granada to Seville, which is practicable for carriages the -greater part, but _not all_ the way; a little beyond this the _Sierra de -Estepa_ rises on the left of the route, to the height of several hundred -feet above the plain. The town of Estepa is not seen, being on the -western side of the hill; it is supposed to be the Astapa of the -Romans, the horrible destruction of which is related by Livy. - -The inhabitants, on the approach of Scipio, aware of the exasperated -feelings of the Romans towards them, piled all their valuables in the -centre of the forum, placed their wives and children upon the top, and -leaving a few of their young men to set fire to the pile in the event of -their defeat, rushed out upon the Roman army. They were all killed, the -pile was lighted, and a heap of ashes was the only trophy of their -conquerors. - -The Roman historian says, the people of Astapa "delighted in robberies." -I wonder if he thought his countrymen exempt from similar propensities! - -In three hours we reached Cazariche. The road merely skirts the village, -being separated from it by an abundant stream, which, serving to -irrigate numerous gardens and orchards, renders the last league of the -ride very agreeable, which otherwise, from the flatness of the country -to the eastward, would be uninteresting. This rivulet is called _La -Salada_; but its volume is far too small to make one suppose for a -moment that it is the _Salsus_. - -At five miles from Cazariche, keeping along the left bank of the Salada -the whole distance, but not crossing it, as marked on the maps, the road -reaches Miragenil. This is a small village, situated on the southern -bank of the Genil, and communicating, by means of a bridge, with _Puente -Don Gonzalo_. - -The river here forms the division between the kingdoms of Seville and -Cordoba; and the two governments not having agreed as to the superior -merits of wood or stone, one-half the bridge is built of the former, the -other half of the latter material. - -Puente Don Gonzalo stands on a steep acclivity, commanding the bridge -and river. It is a town of some consideration, containing several -manufactories of household furniture, numerous mills, and a population -of 6000 souls. - -Florez, on the authority of a _stone_ found _near_ Cazariche (which he -calls Casaliche), whereon the word VENTIPO was inscribed, supposed -_Ventisponte_,[140] to have been situated somewhere in the vicinity of -Puente Don Gonzalo. But if this stone had been _carried_ to Cazariche, -it may have been taken there from any other point of the compass as well -as from that in which Puente Don Gonzalo is situated. - -Other authorities suppose this town to be on the site of Singilis; but -that place, as already stated, has been pretty clearly proved to have -been nearer Antequera. - -The "_provechasos aguas del divino Genil_,"[141] after cleansing the -town of Puente Don Gonzalo, are turned to the best possible account, in -irrigating gardens and turning mill-wheels; and the road to Cordoba, -after proceeding for about a mile along the verdant valley that -stretches to the westward, ascends the somewhat steep bank which pens in -the stream to the north, and for four hours wanders over a flat -uninteresting country to Rambla; passing, in the whole distance of -fifteen miles, but two running streams, three farm-houses, and the -miserable village of Montalban. This latter is distant about a mile and -a half from Rambla. - -We saw but little of this town, having arrived late at night, and -departed from it at an early hour on the following morning; but it is of -considerable size, and situated on the north side of a steep hill. We -found the inn excessively dirty and exorbitantly dear; indeed it may be -laid down as a general rule with Spanish as well as Swiss inns, that the -charges are high in proportion to the _badness_ of the fare and -accommodation. - -The ground in the vicinity of Rambla is planted chiefly with vines, and -but two short leagues to the eastward is situated Montilla, where, in -the estimation of Spaniards, the best wine of the province is grown. It -is extremely dry; and, as I have mentioned before, gives its name to the -Sherry called _Amontillado_. - -Rambla is just midway between Puente Don Gonzalo and Cordoba, viz. -sixteen miles from each. The country is hilly, and mostly under tillage, -but where its cultivators reside puzzles one to guess, as there is not a -house on the road in the whole distance, and but two towns visible from -it, viz. Montemayor and Fernan Nuñez, both within six miles of Rambla. - -The first-named of these places disputes with Montilla the honour of -being the Roman city of _Ulía_, the only inland town of Boetica that -held out for Cæsar against the sons of Pompey, previous to his arrival -in the country.[142] It appears doubtful[143] whether _Ulía_ is -mentioned by Pliny, but it is noticed in the Roman Itinerary (_Gadibus -Cordubam_) as eighteen miles from Cordoba, a distance that agrees better -with Montilla than Montemayor; indeed the former almost declares itself -in the very name it yet bears, _Montilla_; the double _l_ in Spanish -having the liquid sound of _li_, making it a corruption of _Mont Ulía_. - -At about four miles from Cordoba the Guadajoz, or river of Castro, is -crossed by fording, and between it and the Guadalquivír the ground is -broken by steep hills. The road falls into the _Arrecife_ from Seville, -on reaching the suburb on the left bank of the river. - -We took up our abode at the _Posada de la Mesangería_; a particularly -comfortable house, as Spanish inns go, that had been opened for the -accommodation of the diligence travellers since my former visit to the -city. The _patio_, ornamented with a bubbling fountain of icy-cold -water, and shaded with a profusion of all sorts of rare creepers and -flowering shrubs, afforded a cool retreat at all hours of the day; -which, though we were in the month of October, was very acceptable. - -Whilst seated at breakfast, under the colonnade that encompasses the -court, the morning after our arrival, the master of the inn waited upon -us to know if we required a _valet de place_ during our sojourn at -Cordoba, as a very intelligent old man, who spoke French like a native, -and was in the habit of attending upon _caballeros forasteros_[144] in -the above-named capacity, was then in the house, and begged to place his -services at our disposition. - -I replied, that having before visited his city, I considered myself -sufficiently acquainted with its _sights_ to be able to dispense with -this, otherwise useful, personage's attendance; but our host seemed so -desirous that we should employ the old man, "We might have little -errands to send him upon--some purchases to make; in fact, we should -find the Tio Blas so useful in any capacity, and it would be such an -act of charity to employ him,"--that we finally acceded to his proposal, -and the _Tio_ was accordingly ushered in. - -He was a tall, and, though emaciated, still erect old man, whose -tottering gait, and white and scanty hairs, would have led to the belief -that his years had already exceeded the number usually allotted to the -life of man, but that his deep-sunk eyes were shaded by dark and -beatling brows, and yet sparkled occasionally with the fire of youth; -proving that hardships and misfortunes had brought him somewhat -prematurely to the brink of the grave. - -It struck me at the first glance that I had seen him before, but when, -and under what circumstances, I could not recall to my recollection. -After some conversation, as to what had been his former occupation, &c., -he remarked, addressing himself to me, "I think, _Caballero_, that this -is not the first time we have met--many years have elapsed since--many -(to me) most eventful years, and they have wrought great changes in my -appearance. And, indeed, some little difference is perceptible also in -yours, for you were a mere boy then; but, still, time has not laid so -heavy a hand on you as on the worn-out person of him who stands before -you, and in whom you will, doubtless, have difficulty in recognizing the -reckless _Blas Maldonado_!" - -Time had, indeed, effected great changes in him, morally as well as -physically; for not only had the powerful, well-built man, dwindled into -a tottering, emaciated driveller, but the daring, impious bandit, had -become a weak and superstitious dotard. - -My curiosity strongly piqued to learn how changes so wonderful had been -brought about, we immediately engaged the _Tio_ to attend upon us; and, -during the few days circumstances compelled us to remain at Cordoba, I -elicited from him the following account of the events which had -chequered his extraordinary career since we had before met. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -HISTORY OF BLAS EL GUERRILLERO--_continued._ - - "_La rueda de la fortuna anda mas lista que una rueda de molino, y - que los que ayer estaban en pinganitos, hoy estan por el - suelo._"[145]-- - DON QUIJOTE. - - -It was at Castrò el Rio that we last met Don Carlos; it is now eleven -years since,--rather more, but still I have a perfect recollection of -it. My memory, indeed, is the only thing that has served me well through -life. Friends have abandoned--riches corrupted--success has -hardened--ambition disappointed me; and now, as you see, my very limbs -are failing me, but memory--excepting for one short period, when my -brain was affected--has never abandoned me. I cannot flee from it--it -pursues me incessantly: it is as impossible to get rid of, as of one's -shadow in the sun's rays, and seems indeed, like it, to become more -perfect, as I too proceed downward in my rapidly revolving course. - -Alas! it often brings to mind the words of my good father, addressed, -whilst I was yet a child, to my too-indulgent mother:--"If we consult -the happiness of our son, we must not bring him up above the condition -to which it has pleased Providence to call him." It was my unhappy lot, -however, to become an _educated pauper_. I grew up discontented, and -became a profligate: I coveted riches, to feed my unnatural cravings, -and became criminal: I scoffed at religion, and came to ridicule the -idea of a future state of rewards and punishments. And as I thus brought -myself to believe that I was not an accountable creature, nothing -thenceforth restrained me from committing any act which gratified my -passions. What is man, I argued, that I should not despoil him, if he -possess that which I covet? What should deter me from taking his life, -if he stand between me and that which I desire? _Crime_ is a mere -word,--a term for any act which certain _men_, for their mutual -advantage, have agreed shall meet with punishment. But what right have -those men to say, this is just, and that is unlawful? - -Such were my feelings at the time I met and related to you the -adventures of my early life; adventures of which I was then not a -little proud, though, nevertheless, I slurred over some little matters -that I thought would not raise me in your opinion. Well was it for me -that I was not cut off in the midst of my iniquitous career, but have, -on the contrary, been allowed time, by penance and prayer, to make what -atonement is in my power for my former sinful life. - -My journey to Castrò had been undertaken at the desire of the political -chief of ----, for the purpose of watching the proceedings of the Royal -Regiment of Carbineers, which, as you may remember, was at that time -quartered there. - -I soon, under pretence of being a stanch royalist, wormed myself into -the confidence of the officers, and learnt that they were in -communication with the King's Guards at Madrid, and were plotting a -counter-revolution, to reestablish Ferdinand on a despotic throne. The -advice I gave them, and the information I furnished the government, led -to the unconnected and premature developement of their treason, and to -the vigorous steps which were taken by the executive to meet and put it -down. - -These, however, are matters of history, on which it is unnecessary to -dwell; suffice it, therefore, to say, that my good services on the -occasion were rewarded by promotion to a more lucrative _corregimiento_. -I did not long enjoy this new post, for, on the French columns crossing -the Pyrenees the following spring, I threw up my civil employment, and, -collecting a small band of _guerrillas_, flew to the defence of my -country; joining the traitor Ballasteros, then entrusted with the -command of the army of the south. - -The deplorable events which followed deprived me of a home; but, leaving -my wife and infant son (the only child, of three, whom it had pleased -Providence to spare us) at the secluded little town of Cañete la Real, -perched high up in the Sierra de Terril, I wandered about the country -with a few adherents, seeking opportunities of harassing the French -during their operations before Cadiz. - -They afforded us no opportunities, however, of attacking their convoys -with any chance of success, and my followers could not be brought to -engage in any daring enterprise without the prospect of booty. The -feeling of patriotism appeared, indeed, to be extinct in the breasts of -Spaniards, and after a few weeks my band, which was nowhere well -received, having been induced to commit excesses in some of the villages -situated in the open country about Arcos, several parties of royalist -volunteers were formed to proceed in quest of us; and so disheartened -were my followers, that I shortly found my band reduced to a dozen -desperadoes, who, like myself, had no hopes of obtaining pardon. - -We betook ourselves, therefore, to the innermost recesses of the Ronda -mountains, moving constantly from place to place, as well to harass our -pursuers, as to avoid being surrounded by them; and such is the -intricacy of the country, and so numerous are the rocky fastnesses of -the smugglers (from whom we were always sure of a good reception), that -we readily baffled all pursuit, and exhausted the patience of our -enemies; and, at length, seizing a favourable opportunity of inflicting -a severe loss upon one of their parties, the patriotic zeal of these -gentry so completely evaporated, that we were left in the undisturbed -command of the Serranía. - -All hope of being serviceable to our country at an end, we were -compelled, as a last resource, to adopt the only calling to which we -were suited, viz., that of highway robbers; and for several months every -road between Gibraltar and Malaga, and the inland towns, was, in turn, -subject to our predaceous visits. - -On one occasion a dignitary of the church, whose name and particular -station it would not be prudent of me to mention, fell into our hands. -His attendants, who were of a militant order, defended their master with -great obstinacy. They were eventually overpowered, however, but several -of my men having been badly wounded in the scuffle, were so -exasperated, that they determined to shoot all those who had fallen into -our hands, as well as the ---- himself; who, though he had not taken an -active part in the combat, had made no attempt to restrain his -pugnacious adherents. - -As soon as our prisoners had been secured, therefore, the portly -ecclesiastic was directed to descend from his sleek mule, deliver up his -money, and prepare for death. He inveighed in eloquent terms at our -barbarity, pointed out to us the iniquity of our proceedings, the -probability of a speedy punishment overtaking us in this life, and the -certainty of having to endure everlasting torments in that which is to -come. But it was to no purpose; indeed, it only tempted my miscreants to -prolong his misery; and, having tied him to a tree, they insisted upon -his blessing them all round, ere they proceeded to shoot him. - -"My children," said the worthy ----, "my blessing, from the tone in which -you ask it, would serve you little. My life is in the hands of my Maker, -not in your's; and if it be His pleasure to make you the instruments of -his divine will, so be it. I am prepared; death has no terrors for me; -and may you obtain _His_ forgiveness for the sin you are about to -commit, as readily as I grant you _mine_. Now, I am ready;" and, looking -upwards to the seat of all power and grace, he paid no further -attention to their scoffing. - -"Now Señor Bias," said one of my men, "since he will give us no more -sport, give the word, and let us finish his business." - -"Hold!" exclaimed one of the ----'s suite, addressing me, "Is your name -Blas Maldonado?" - -"It is: wherefore?" - -"Because, if such be the case, in his Excellency's _portefuille_ you -will find a letter addressed to you." - -I forthwith proceeded to examine its contents, and, true enough, found a -letter bearing my address. It was from my old friend _Jacobo_, -requesting, should the ---- fall into my hands, that I would suffer him -to pass without molestation, in return for services conferred on him, -which would be explained at our next meeting.[146] - -_Jacobo_, though we had not met for many months, I knew was in that part -of the country, following the honest calling of a _Contrabandista_, and -I felt, in honour, bound to grant this request of my old friend and ever -faithful lieutenant. My followers, however, objected strongly to spare -either the ----, or his attendants, and a violent altercation ensued; -for, I declared that my life must be taken ere that of any one of our -prisoners. - -Four only of the band sided with me, and we had already assumed a -hostile attitude, when the ---- called earnestly upon me to desist. - -"Peril not your sinful souls!" he exclaimed, "by hurrying each other, -unrepented of your manifold sins, into the presence of an offended -Maker.--Take our gold--take every thing we possess; and if those -misguided men cannot be satisfied without blood, let mine flow to save -the lives of these, my followers, who have stronger ties than I to bind -them to this world." - -My hot temper, little used to contradiction, would listen, however, to -no terms; my word was pledged that the ---- and his attendants should go -free, and my word was never given in vain. I persisted, therefore, in -declaring that those must pass over my body who would touch a hair of -the ----'s head, or take a m_aravedi_ from his purse.... If he chose to -make them a present after he had been released, he was his own master to -do so. - -This delicate hint was eagerly seized by the worthy dignitary's -attendants, and a large sum of money was distributed amongst the gang, -in which I declined sharing. The ----, meanwhile, remounted his mule, -and, calling me to his side, placed a valuable ring upon my finger. "I -am indebted to you for my life, Blas Maldonado," he said, with the most -lively emotion; "but that is little; I owe to you--what I value -infinitely more--the safety of these faithful attendants, whose -attachment had led them, like Simon Peter, to defend their Pastor. Such -debts cannot be cancelled by any gift I can bestow, and it is not with -that view I offer you this bauble, but a day may come when you may need -an intercessor--if so, return this ring to me by some faithful member of -our holy church, and let me know how I can serve you: or--which is -probable, considering my age and infirmities--should I, ere that comes -to pass, have been called from this world to give an account of my -stewardship; then, fear not to lay it at the foot of Fernando's throne, -and, in the name of its donor, beg for mercy. I trust you may not have -occasion to require its services, for my prayers shall not be wanting -for your conversion from your present evil ways--my blessing be upon -you--farewell." - -How powerful is the influence of religion! Whilst listening to the -worthy ----'s words, my head, which since the days of my childhood no -act of devotion had ever led me to uncover, was bared as if by instinct; -and, to receive the blessing he had called down upon me, I humbled -myself to the earth! - -Although those of the band who had so vehemently opposed sparing -the ----'s life had finally been satisfied with the _donation_ bestowed -upon them, yet their disobedience made me determine on ejecting them -from my band, and accordingly, accompanied only by my four supporters in -the late dispute, I proceeded to my old rendezvous, Montejaque, hoping -to pick up some recruits. I purposed, also, availing myself of the first -favourable opportunity to remove my wife and child to that place, it -being more conveniently situated, and offering greater security than -even Cañete la Real. - -We had been there but a few days, when I received a letter without a -signature, but in the well-known characters of my bosom friend, Miguel -Clavijo, under whose protection I had placed my wife and child, giving -warning of impending danger to them. There was yet time to avert it, my -correspondent concluded, but in twenty-four hours from the date of this -communication, their fate would probably be sealed. - -It was within two hours of sunset when I received this letter, and eight -hours had already elapsed since it had been written. Not a moment, -therefore, was to be lost. I procured a pillion, and, placing it on an -active horse, set off with all possible haste for Cañete, keeping along -the course of the river Ariate to avoid the town of Ronda, and -traversing at full speed the village bearing the name of the stream, in -order to escape recognition. - -I reached the rounded summit of the chain of hills which forms the -northern boundary of the cultivated valley of Ronda, just as the sun was -sinking behind the western mountains; and, checking my horse to give him -a few moments' breath ere commencing the rugged descent on the opposite -side, I turned round to see if all were quiet in the wide-spread plain I -had just traversed, and that no one was following my traces. At this -moment the last ray of the glorious luminary lit upon the distant town -of Grazalema. The remarkable coincidence of the warning of treason I had -received there on this very day, twelve years before, came vividly to -mind, and with it the recollection of my extraordinary escape from the -snare laid for me--the debt of gratitude due to her who had risked her -life, and sacrificed her honour to save me--the cruelty with which my -preserver had been treated. Poor abandoned Paca! From the moment of our -angry separation, never had I once taken the trouble of enquiring what -had been her fate. Scarcely, indeed, had I ever bestowed a thought upon -her. - -I resumed my way down the rough descent, pondering, for the first time -in my life, on the ingratitude I had been guilty of, and had reached -some high cliffs that border the road beneath the village of La Cuera -del Becerro, when a pistol was discharged within a few yards of me, and, -looking up, I saw a witchlike figure standing on the edge of the -precipice overhanging the path--It was Paca! - -Had my eyes wished to deceive me, she would not have allowed them, for, -with a wild, demonaical laugh, she screamed out "_Adelante, Adelante, -embustero desalmado!_[147]--You will yet be in time to dig the grave for -your child, though too late to snatch your _wife_ from the arms of her -paramour. Forward, forward; recollect the old saying, '_no hay boda, sin -tornabóda_;'[148] you may have forgotten Paca of _Benaocaz_, but I shall -never forget Blas Maldonado. The creditor has ever a better memory than -the debtor. I have paid myself now, however--ride on, and see the -receipt I have left for you at Cañete--ha, ha, ha!" - -There was something perfectly fiendish in her laughter. A horrible -presentiment possessed me.--With a hand tremulous with passion, I drew -forth a pistol and fired. Paca staggered, and fell backwards; but, not -waiting to see if she were killed, I put spurs to my horse, and hurried -forward to Cañete. - -I rode straight to the house where I had left my wife, but it was -uninhabited. I turned from it with a shudder, and proceeded to the -abode of my faithful friend Clavijo, who was confined to his bed with -ague. He received me with a face foreboding evil. - -"Where is my wife?" I hastily demanded--"my child, where is he?" - -"Alas!" he replied, "why came you not earlier?" - -"Earlier! how could that be? It is but twelve hours since your summons -was penned! Tell me, I implore you--what horrible misfortune has -befallen?" - -"But twelve hours, say you?" exclaimed Clavijo; "It is now _three days_ -since I intrusted my letter to Paca to convey to you! she it was who -informed me of the plot to carry off your wife, (which has been but too -truly effected,) and offered to be herself the bearer of my letter to -you at Montejaque, where she assured me you were. I have not seen her -since, and fancied she had not succeeded in finding you." - -I stood stupified whilst listening to this explanation--for such it was -to me; the truth, the horrible truth, at once flashing upon me--and -then, without waiting to obtain further information from the bed-ridden -Miguel, hastened to the late residence of my wife, which one of his -domestics pointed out to me. In few words, I explained to its owner the -object of my visit, begging for information concerning my child. "This -will explain all, Señor Blas," she replied, taking a letter from a -cupboard, and placing it in my hands; "would to God it had been in my -power to prevent what has happened." - -The letter was in my wife's hand-writing, I tore it open, and to my -astonishment read as follows. - -"Monster of iniquity! The veil that has but too long concealed thy -unequalled crimes from the eyes of a confiding woman, has been rudely -torn aside. Murderer of my brother! Apostate! Traitor! Adulterer! -receive at my hands the first stroke of the Almighty's anger. The -illegitimate offspring of our intercourse lies a mangled corpse upon our -adulterous bed! Yes, unparalleled villain; my hand, like thine own, is -stained with the blood of my child--_our_ child. But on thy head rests -the sin. In a moment of delirium, produced by the sight of my husband, -and the knowledge of thy atrocious crimes, the horrid deed was -committed. I leave thee to the pangs of remorse. I cannot curse thee. -Even with the bleached corpse of my poor boy before me, I cannot bring -myself to call down a heavy punishment upon thee. We shall never meet -again; but fly instantly and save thyself if possible; and may the -Almighty Being, whose every command thou hast violated, extend the term -of thy life for repentance; and may a blessed Saviour and the holy -saints, whose mediation thou hast ever derided, intercede for the -salvation of thy sinful soul." - -My first feeling on reading this epistle was incredulity! _I_, who had -stopped at no crime to gratify any evil passion; even I could not -persuade myself that it was not a forgery, nor believe that one so -gentle, so affectionate, as Engracia, could be guilty of so diabolical -an act. I took up a lamp and walked composedly to the adjoining chamber, -to satisfy my doubts. With a steady hand I drew aside the curtain of the -bed--nothing was visible. A thrill of delight ran through my veins. I -tore off the counterpane, and--horrible revulsion of -feeling!--discovered my boy, my darling boy, with anguish depicted in -every feature, and every muscle contracted with excessive suffering; a -cold--black--fetid--putrid corpse! - -Until that moment I had not known the full extent to which the chords of -the human heart are capable of being stretched. All my love of life had -centred in that child. Each of his infantile endearments came fresh upon -my memory. The pangs of jealousy and hate, too, had never before been so -acutely felt; and, lastly, I thought of my Fernando's dying malediction! -It seemed as if a poisoned dart had pierced to the very innermost recess -of the heart, and that my envenomed blood waited but its extraction, to -gush forth in one irrepressible flood. - -I stood speechless--awe-struck--motionless; but not yet humbled. I -thought of Paca, and a curse rose to my throat; but ere I had time to -give it utterance, a noise, as of many persons assembled at the door of -the house, attracted my attention, and I heard an unknown voice say, -"This, _Tio_, you are sure is the house? Then in with you, comrades, -without ceremony, and bring out every soul you may find there, dead or -alive." - -In another moment the door was broken open and a party of armed men -rushed in. My precaution of extinguishing the lamp was vain, as several -of them bore blazing torches. I rushed to a back window of the inner -apartment, and drew forth a pistol to keep them at bay whilst I effected -my escape by it. It had the desired effect. Not one of the dastard crew -would approach to lay his hand upon me. The shutter was already thrown -open; the strength of desperation had enabled me to tear down one of the -iron bars of the _reja_; and one foot rested on the window-sill; when, -rushing past the soldiers, a ghost-like female figure, whose face was -bound up in a cloth clotted with gore, seized me in her convulsive -grasp, and in a half-articulate scream cried, "Wretch! you shall not so -escape me!"--It was Paca! I tried in vain to shake her off; she clung to -me with the pertinacity of a vampire, I placed the muzzle of my pistol -to her temple, and pulled the trigger; but, in my hurry, I had drawn -that which I had already fired at her. I attempted to snatch another -from my belt, but the soldiers taking courage rushed forward and -overpowered me, just as Paca, from whose mouth I now perceived blood was -rapidly issuing, fell exhausted upon the floor. - -The commander of the party was now called in, who gave directions for a -priest and a surgeon to be instantly sent for, and that I should be -bound hand and foot with cords. They took the bedding from under the -corpse of my son to form a rest for Paca, whose life seemed ebbing -rapidly. - -In a few minutes the surgeon arrived, and shortly after a tinkling bell -announced the approach of the Host. The doctor having examined Paca's -wounds, pronounced them to have been inflicted by the discharge of some -weapon loaded with slugs, one of which had fractured her jaw-bone, -whilst another had inflicted a wound that occasioned an inward flow of -blood which threatened immediate dissolution, and consequently the -services of the church were more likely to be beneficial than his own. -The priest then approached, and offered the last and cheering -consolation that our holy religion offers to a dying penitent. - -Paca opened her now lustreless eyes, and with a motion of impatience, -putting aside the proffered cup, pointed to me. "There is my murderer," -she muttered in broken accents; "Villain! monster! my vengeance is at -length complete. I leave you in the hands of justice, and die ... -happy." An agonized writhe belied her assertion. She never spoke after, -but continued groaning whilst the worthy priest attempted to call her -attention to her approaching end. - -I have not much more to add to my history. It appeared, by what I learnt -afterwards, that Beltran had most miraculously escaped death, when -thrown from the rock of Montejaque, and having been discovered by some -French soldiers who made an attack upon the place a few days afterwards, -was conveyed to Ronda, when the loss of his ears led to his being -recognised by the French governor, who had, in the meanwhile, received -my _present_, and discovered the trick I had played him. - -Beltran's tale thus proved to have been the true one, he was -well-treated, and sent with a party of prisoners to France, where he -remained until the conclusion of the war. He was then on his way back to -his native country, in company with several other Spaniards, when he was -arrested as being an accomplice, "_sans préméditation_," in a robbery, -attended with loss of life, and was sentenced to ten years' -imprisonment; but, before this term was fully completed, he obtained -his release, returned to Spain, and proceeding immediately to his native -province, there first learnt that Engracia had become my wife. - -I think, by the way, that in the former part of my narrative I omitted -to mention--for fully persuaded as I _then_ was of Beltran's death, it -was a matter of no moment--that previous to Engracia's becoming my wife, -she informed me of her having, at the urgent instances of her brother -Melchor, consented to a private marriage with my rival; and from this -circumstance she had expressed the greatest anxiety to ascertain his -fate with certainty, and had delayed for so long a period bestowing her -hand upon me. - -This marriage with Beltran had taken place at Gaucin within an hour of -my departure from that town, after making the arrangements for our -combined attack on Ronda; and had been strongly advocated by Melchor, -from an apprehension that, should any thing happen to him in the -approaching conflict, his elder brother, Alonzo, who was kept in perfect -ignorance of this proceeding, would abandon his friend Beltran, and -insist on their sister's marrying me, whom he (Melchor) detested. - -I, however, as you are aware, had every reason to believe that Beltran -had been killed by his fall from the rock of Montejaque; and therefore, -on eventually eliciting from Engracia the reason of her reluctance to -marry me, I had no scruple in declaring that Beltran's dead body had -been seen rolling down the shallow pebbly bed of the Guadiaro, after our -action with the French. The crime I had led her to commit was -consequently unintentional. Would I could as easily acquit myself of -another her letter accused me of, namely, that of being the murderer of -her brother: for, through my machinations was his death brought about. - -Whilst the crop-eared traitor, Beltran, (the _Tio's_ revengeful feelings -were not so entirely allayed as to prevent his bestowing an occasional -term of reproach on those who had thwarted his prosperous career of -iniquity) was skulking about the mountains, endeavouring to obtain -tidings of his re-married wife, chance threw him in the way of Paca, -engaged in a similar pursuit, but with a very different purpose. - -This wretched woman had, for many years after our separation, been the -inmate of a mad-house; but, at length, her keepers finding that, -excepting on the subject of her supposed wrongs, she was perfectly -tractable, became careless of watching her, and she effected her escape. - -The sole object of this vindictive creature's life appears now to have -been to wreak vengeance upon me. But not satisfied with the mere death -of her victim, she sought first to torture him with worldly pangs; and -informed that Engracia lived, and had given birth to a son, whom I loved -with a more fervent affection than even the mother, she determined -_they_ should first be sacrificed to her revenge. - -On discovering Beltran alive, however, a scheme yet more hellishly -devised entered her imagination; in the execution of which he became a -willing agent, though in some degree her dupe. - -Well acquainted with all my haunts, she soon got upon my track; and that -discovered, had little difficulty in finding out the hiding-place of -Engracia. Making a shrewd guess at the person under whose protection I -had placed my wife and child, she forthwith presented herself to Don -Miguel, and informed him that a plot was laid, and on the eve of -execution, to carry them both off; adding, that it might yet be -frustrated if I could but arrive at Cañete within twenty-four -hours--that she knew where I then was, and would undertake to have any -warning conveyed to me which his prudence might suggest--that her -messenger was sure, but still the utmost caution, as well as despatch, -was necessary. - -Miguel, quite taken by surprise, and unable from illness to leave his -bed, wrote the short note which has already been given; and this point -gained, Paca proceeded to the nearest town to give information to the -authorities that the bandit Blas, whom they were seeking in every -direction, was to be at Cañete la Real on a certain night; and proposed, -if a detachment of troops was sent quietly to the neighbouring village -of El Becerro, that she would repair thither at the proper time, and -conduct the soldiers to the traitor's very lair. - -This proposal was readily acceded to, and Paca then repaired to Cañete, -to tell Miguel not to be uneasy as to the result of his message to me, -as, since sending it, she had ascertained on good authority that -something had occurred to postpone the elopement of Engracia for a day -or two. - -Bending her steps thence to where Beltran was anxiously awaiting her -return, she told him that after much difficulty she had discovered -Engracia was at Cañete; he had therefore but to proceed there after -dark, provided with the means of carrying her off. But this, she -informed him, must be done with the utmost celerity and circumspection, -as the inhabitants of the place were so desperate a set, and so attached -to me, that, if they got the slightest inkling of what was going -forward, they certainly would handle him very roughly; and the -authorities, unless backed by a body of troops, would be afraid to -interfere in his behalf. - -If, however, she pursued, he preferred waiting until an escort could be -procured, that he might avoid all personal risk--but delays were -dangerous, for frequently - - _"De la mano a la boca_ - _se cae la sopa._"[149] - -The law, too, was uncertain.--He thought so also, and they proceeded -together to Cañete. - -Beltran, imagining that Paca had informed Engracia of his being alive, -conceived that no intimation of his coming was requisite; but such was -not the case, and the shock given by his unexpected visit caused the -aberration of mind which led the hapless Engracia to commit the horrid -crime of infanticide; and, in the state of inanition that followed, she -was carried out of the town. - -The letter to me was written afterwards, and delivered to the old woman -of the house by Paca, the last act of whose fiendish plot now commenced. - -Altering the date of Miguel's letter, so as to make it correspond with -the time arranged for the arrival of the troops at _La Cueva del -Becerro_, she forwarded it to me at Montejaque--what followed has -already been stated. - -These details became known on my trial, which took place shortly -afterwards. I was condemned to suffer death by the _garrote_. The day -was fixed; I sent for a priest, and entrusting to him the ring given me -by the ----, begged he would forward it without delay to Madrid. - -This was done, but day after day passed without bringing any answer to -my appeal. At first I had been so sanguine as to the result, that I was -affected but little at my position, for I knew how easily a pardon is -obtained in Spain, when application is made in the proper quarter; but, -as the fatal time approached, the darkest despair took possession of my -soul. - -I cannot indeed convey to you, Don Carlos, an adequate idea of the -horrible torments I endured during the last few days preceding that -fixed for my execution. The pious father Ignacio--he has since (sainted -soul!) been taken from this earth, and is now, I trust, my intercessor -in heaven--was unremitting in his endeavours to bring me to repentance; -but Satan was yet strong within me, and my heart remained hardened. The -pardon came not, and I exclaimed against the justness of the Most High: -I, whom no considerations of justice had influenced in any one action of -my life--who had recklessly transgressed each of His commandments! - -"We must not ask for _justice_ at the hands of the Almighty," urged -Ignacio; "We are all born in sin, in sin we all live; _mercy_ is what we -must pray for." - -"Mercy!" I exclaimed; "_Why_ was I born in sin? Why led to commit crime? -Why...." - -"Your unbridled passions led you to transgress the laws of your -Creator," replied Ignacio; "be thankful that you were not cut short in -your mad career, and that time has been allowed you for repentance." - -"Repent!--I cannot--I have ever denied, I cannot now believe in the -existence of a Maker." - -"Unhappy man!" ejaculated the worthy priest; "unhappy, impious, -inconsistent man! You deny the existence of the Being against whose -justice your voice was raised e'en now in reproaches! Do you not look -forward to behold again to-morrow the bright luminary round which this -atom of a world revolves? Look on that pale moon, which perhaps you now -see rising for the last time--Observe that fiery meteor which has this -moment dashed through the wondrous, boundless firmament; and ask -yourself if this admirable system can be the effect of accident? Do the -trees yearly yield us their fruits by chance? Is the punctual return of -the seasons a mere casualty? If so, how is it that this accidental -atom--this globe we inhabit, has so long held together _without_ -accident? Has any work of man, however cunningly devised, in like manner -withstood the effects of time? Is not the protecting hand of the Deity -clearly perceptible in the unvarying continuance of these phenomena? - -"My son, had you studied the Holy Scriptures more, and the philosophy of -Voltaire and other infidels less, you would not have been brought to -this strait; neither would you have shocked my ears with a confession, -which, a few years since, would have consigned you to the dungeons of -the Inquisition. Repent! unhappy man, repent! and save your soul--there -is still time. Nay, an omnipotent Maker may even yet think fit to -prolong your life here below, for the perfection of this good work, if -you will but pray to him in all sincerity." - -The pious father saw that I was touched, and, pouring in promises of -future happiness, brought me to reflect. I begged him to be with me -early on the following morning. He came; I had passed the night in -prayer; and now unburdened my mind, by making to him a full confession -of my sins. - -Ignacio remained comforting me, until the hour of the arrival of the -post, when he repaired, as usual, to the _Corregidor_, to ascertain -whether any pardon had reached him. He returned not, however. Eleven -o'clock was the hour fixed for my execution; it came, but still Ignacio -did not appear. Hours passed away, and not a soul visited me; the sun -again sank below the horizon, and I yet lived. - -It was evident--so, at least, I thought--that a pardon had arrived, and -my spirits rose accordingly. At length, towards nightfall, Ignacio -entered my cell. "Blas," he said, "though it would appear there is no -longer a chance of your receiving a pardon, yet your life has been -miraculously spared this day, to give you time for repentance. I trust -you have turned it to good account." - -"How!" I exclaimed, "have I not been pardoned? What, then, has -occasioned this delay?" - -"You owe your life," he replied, "to a rumour, that a band of robbers -had appeared in the vicinity--some of your old friends, it was -thought--which caused all the troops to be sent out in pursuit. They -have but now returned, and to-morrow you will be executed." - -A pang of withering disappointment ran through me, for I had confidently -imagined that the delay had been the consequence of the arrival of a -pardon, and Satan once more obtained dominion over me. - -Ignacio read in my overcast countenance the change his information had -wrought in my feelings. "Your repentance is not sincere, my son," he -observed. "Alas! when death is in sight, how fondly do we cling to this -earth. And yet you have braved death in the field a thousand times!" - -"Father," I replied, "it is not death I fear--it is the disgrace of a -public execution." - -"What absurd sophistry is this?" said he. "Can one, who but yesterday -denied the existence of a future state, care for one moment _how_ he -quits this world, or regard the opinion of those he leaves behind in -it?--as well might he be fearful of losing the good opinion of a herd of -swine. Away with such fine-spun subtilties--it is the prospect of -meeting your Maker face to face that makes you quail. You are yet but -ill prepared, I see. Oh! may He yet mercifully extend your life, if but -a short span." - -The morrow came, but the pious Ignacio's prayer remained apparently -unheard. He repaired to my call soon after the arrival of the post, to -exhort and prepare me. Alas! I was as much in want of his assistance as -ever, for I had all along clung to the hope of obtaining a pardon -through the influence of the ----, and was more inclined to rail than to -pray. - -A party of soldiers at length arrived, and I was led off in chains to -the place of execution. A vast crowd was assembled from all the -neighbouring towns to witness my punishment. Ignacio addressed the -multitude on our way, saying, I was a repentant sinner, and implored the -prayers of all good Christians. For myself I said not a word, and the -crowd gave no signs of either gratification or commiseration. I mounted -the scaffold, the fatal instrument was placed round my throat, a curse -was yet on my lips, when a distant shout attracted the Father's -attention. Laying a hand upon the arm of the executioner to stay his -proceedings, he watched with eager eyes the signs of some one who was -approaching at a rapid pace, holding a paper high in the air. The paper -was handed to Ignacio by the breathless messenger. "It is a pardon," he -exclaimed; "your life is miraculously spared--it has been sent express -from the Escurial! Return your thanks, to Him, who has been pleased thus -to extend his mercy towards you." - -I had already sunk on my knees--I prayed earnestly for the first time in -my life. - -Marvellously, indeed, had my life been preserved. But for the rumoured -appearance of the band of robbers, I should have suffered death the day -before; again, this day, but for Ignacio's presence, the pardon would -have arrived too late. - -I was immediately released, but a fever, caused, probably, by my -previously excited feelings, confined me to my bed for many weeks. I -became delirious, and my life was despaired of. Ignacio tended me like a -brother. A second time he saved my life; but, alas! he himself -contracted the contagious disorder, and fell a victim to his warm and -disinterested friendship. - -I expended all I was worth in masses for his soul, and was once more -thrown upon the world to seek a livelihood. - -I thought of applying to the ---- to procure me some employment, but -learnt that he too had closed his mortal career. The fever had given -such a shock to my constitution, that old age, I may say, came suddenly -upon me, and to gain a livelihood by hard labour was out of the -question. I had no relations; my friends were all new; so that I had no -claims on any one: my present occupation presented itself, as the only -one I was fit for; and, thank God, it enables me to earn my bread -without begging, and even to lay by a little store for pious -purposes:--for much of my time is devoted to the performance of penances -and austerities, to expiate the sins of my past life. Thrice, on my -knees, have I ascended to the _Ermita_ you see there peeping through the -clouds gathered round the peaks of the Sierra Morena. Once, too, have I -walked barefoot to prostrate myself before the _Santa faz_[150] of Jaen; -and this winter (God willing!) I purpose visiting the most holy shrine -of _Sant' Iago de Compostela_. - -It is a long journey, and will, probably, be my last pilgrimage, for I -feel myself sinking fast. - -You have now had the history of my whole life, Don Carlos--I wish it -could be published. It might, probably, warn my fellow-creatures to rest -contented with the lot to which it has pleased God to call them; and, if -so, I may have lived to some purpose. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - UNFORESEEN DIFFICULTIES IN PROCEEDING TO MADRID--DEATH OF KING - FERDINAND--CHANGE IN OUR PLANS--ROAD TO - ANDUJAR--ALCOLEA--MONTORO--PORCUNA--ANDUJAR--ARJONA--TORRE - XIMENO--DIFFICULTY OF GAINING ADMISSION--SUCCESS OF A - STRATAGEM--CONSTERNATION OF THE AUTHORITIES--SPANISH ADHERENCE TO - FORMS--CONTRASTS--JAEN--DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE, CITY, AND - CATHEDRAL--LA SANTA FAZ--ROAD TO GRANADA--OUR KNIGHTLY - ATTENDANT--PARADOR DE SAN RAFAEL--HOSPITABLE FARMER--ASTONISHMENT - OF THE NATIVES--GRANADA--EL SOTO DE ROMA--LOJA--VENTA DE - DORNEJO--COLMENAR--FINE SCENERY--ROAD FROM MALAGA TO ANTEQUERA, AND - DESCRIPTION OF THAT CITY. - - -I found Cordoba the same dull, sultry, loyal city as at the period of my -former visit; after devoting a day, therefore, to the incomparable -_Mezquita_, we repaired to the police office to redeem our passports, -and have them _visé_ for Madrid, purposing to proceed to the capital by -_Diligence_. We there learnt, however, that our route from Gibraltar, -having passed _near_ the district wherein the cholera had appeared, the -public safety demanded that our journey should be continued on -horseback, and, moreover, that each day's ride should not exceed eight -leagues! - -The prospect of a fortnight's baking on the parched plains of La Mancha -and Castile, which this preposterous precaution held out, was, of -itself, enough to make any one _crusty_; but the additional vexation of -finding that all our precautions had been unavailing, all our -information erroneous, made us return to the _posada_, thoroughly out of -humour with _Las Cosas de España_. Our landlord comforted us, however, -by engaging--if we would but wait patiently for a few days, and leave -the business entirely in his hands--to get matters arranged so that we -might yet proceed on to Madrid by the diligence; and, knowing the wheels -within wheels by which Spanish affairs of state are put in motion, we -willingly came to this compromise, and remained quietly paying him for -our breakfasts and dinners during the best part of a week, receiving -each day renewed assurances that every thing was proceeding -"_corriente_." - -The second day after our arrival at Cordoba, the inhabitants were moved -to an unusual degree of excitement, in consequence of an _estafette_ -having passed through the city during the night, bearing despatches from -Madrid to the Captain General of the Province, and rumours were afloat -that the king was so seriously ill as to occasion great fears for his -life; and, on the following day, public anxiety was yet further excited -by a report that the Captain General had passed through Cordoba on his -way to the capital; leading to the general belief that Ferdinand was -actually dead. - -In the evening our host came to us with a very long face, and informed -us, confidentially, that such was the case, though, for political -reasons, it had been deemed prudent not to make the melancholy news -public; adding, that, in consequence of this unforeseen and unfortunate -event, he regretted to say the authorities had been seized with such a -panic, that he had altogether failed in his endeavour to have the stain -effaced from our bill of health. Nevertheless, he said, he hoped yet to -be able to arrange matters so as to ensure our being received into the -diligence, _without any questions being asked_ at Andujar, if we would -but remain quietly where we were for a few days longer, and then proceed -to that place on horseback. - -The news received from Madrid had, however, decided us to give up the -plan of continuing our journey thither. I knew enough of Spain to -foresee what would be the result of all the intrigues which had been -carried on behind the curtains of the imbecile Ferdinand's death-bed. - -"You are quite right, Señor," said Blas, to whom I made known our change -of plans, "we shall now have a disputed succession, for, be assured, Don -Carlos is not the man to forego his just rights without a -struggle.--Alas! this only was wanting to fill my unhappy country's cup -of misery to overflowing." - -Although thus unwillingly forced to abandon the project of crossing the -Sierra Morena, we determined, whilst the country yet remained quiet, to -extend our tour further to the eastward, and, by proceeding along the -_arrecife_ to Madrid as far as Andujar, gain the road which leads from -thence to Jaen; a city, which the want of practicable roads leading from -it to the south has, until late years (during which that deficiency has -been remedied), been very rarely visited by travellers. - -Recommending Señor Blas to postpone his projected barefoot pilgrimage -into Gallicia, until the rainy season had set in, and made the roads -soft, we departed from Cordoba by the great post route to the capital, -which, as far as Alcolea, is conducted along the right bank of the -Guadalquivír, and is a fine, broad, and well-kept gravel road. - -Alcolea is seven miles from Cordoba. It is a small village of but twenty -or thirty houses, and, in the opinion of Florez, occupies the site of -the ancient town of Arva. The _arrecife_ here crosses to the left bank -of the river by a handsome marble bridge, of eighteen arches, built in -1788-92. The passage of this bridge was obstinately contested by the -Spaniards, in the campaign of 1808, but a party of the French, which -had crossed the river at Montoro, falling upon its defenders in flank, -forced them to retreat. - -From hence to Carpio is ten miles. The country is undulated, and the -road--along which there is not a single village, and scarcely half a -dozen houses--keeps within sight of the Guadalquivír the whole way, -affording many pleasing views of the winding stream and its overhanging -woods and olive groves. - -The town of Carpio is left about a quarter of a mile off, on the right. -It is situated on a hill, and by some is supposed to be the ancient city -of Corbulo. Pliny, however, distinctly says that place was _below_ -Cordoba, and Florez fixes it in the vicinity of Palma. - -From Carpio to Aldea del Rio is twelve miles, the country continuing -much the same as heretofore. At three miles, the road reaches the small -town of Pedro Abad (or Perabad) in the vicinity of which is a -_despoblado_,[151] where various medals and vestiges have been found -that determine it to be the site of Sacili, mentioned by Pliny. - -Proceeding onwards, the town of Bujalance may occasionally be seen on -the right, distant about a league and a half from the Guadalquivír; and -at seven miles from Carpio, we passed Montoro, a large town situated on -the margin of the river, and about three quarters of a mile to the left -of the _arrecife_. This town has been determined by antiquaries to be -Ripepora. - -The country about Aldea del Rio is rather pretty, and the place has a -thriving look compared with the miserable towns we had lately seen; its -population is about 1,800 souls. We halted here for the night, and found -the _posada_ most wretched. - -At a distance of nine (geographic) miles from Aldea del Rio, in a -south-east direction, is the town of Porcuna; its situation, Florez -justly observes, agreeing so well with that of Obulco, as given both by -Strabo[152] and Pliny,[153] as to leave no doubt of their identity. -Inscriptions, monuments, coins, &c., which have been found there, quite -confirm this opinion, and an important point is thus gained in tracing -the operations of Cæsar in his last campaign against the sons of Pompey; -since Obulco, which he is mentioned as having reached in twenty-seven -days from Rome, may be considered the advanced post of the country that -was favourable to his cause. - -The present ignoble name of the town--Porcuna,--appears to have been -bestowed upon it from the extraordinary fecundity of a _sow_; an -inscription, commemorative of the birth of thirty young pigs at one -litter, being preserved to this day in the church of the Benedictine -friars, and is thus worded:-- - - C. CORNELIVS. C. F. - CN. GAL. CÆSO. - AED. FLAMEN. II. VIR - MVNICIPII. PONTIF - C. CORN. CÆSO. F. - SACERDOS. GENT. MVNICIPII - SCROFAM CVM PORCIS XXX - IMPENSA IPSORVM. - D. D. - -From Aldea del Rio to Andujar is fourteen miles, making the whole -distance from Cordoba to that place forty-three miles. The country is -very gently undulated, and principally under tillage; the ride, however, -is dreary, there being but one house on the road. - -Andujar stands altogether on the right bank of the Guadalquivír, which -is crossed by a bridge of nine arches. The town is reputed to contain a -population of 12,000 souls, but that number is a manifest exaggeration. -It is encompassed by old Roman walls, and defended by an ancient castle, -and is celebrated for its manufacture of pottery. It is, nevertheless, a -dilapidated, impoverished looking place. - -By some Andujar is supposed to be the Illiturgi,[154] or, as it is -otherwise written, Illurtigis of the ancient historians; but Florez -fixes the site of that city two leagues higher up, but on the same bank -of the Guadalquivír, and imagines Andujar to be Ipasturgi. The locality -of the existing town certainly but ill agrees with the description of -Illurtigis given by Livy, for no part of Andujar is "covered by a high -rock."[155] - -The _arrecife_ to Madrid leaves the banks of the Guadalquivír at -Andujar, striking inland to Baylen, and thence across the Sierra Morena -by the pass of _Despeña Perros_. After devoting a few hours to exploring -the old walls of the town, we recrossed the river, and bent our steps -towards Granada, taking the road to Jaen. - -We proceeded that afternoon to Torre Ximena, twenty miles from Andujar. -The country is undulated, and mostly under cultivation. The road is--or, -more properly, I should say, perhaps, the places upon the road are--very -incorrectly laid down on the Spanish maps; for, instead of being -scattered east and west over the face of the country, they are so nearly -in line, as to make the general direction of the road nearly straight. -Though but a cross-country track, it is tolerably good throughout. The -first town it visits is Arjona, said to be the ancient Urgao, or -Virgao.[156] It is a poor place, of some twelve or fifteen hundred -inhabitants, and distant seven miles from the Guadalquivír. - -Five miles beyond Arjona, but lying half pistol shot off the road to the -right, is the miserable little village of Escañuela; and three miles -further on, the equally wretched town of Villa Don Pardo. From hence to -Torre Ximeno (five miles) the road traverses a vast plain, but, ere we -had proceeded half way, night overtook us, and on reaching the town we -found all the entrances most carefully closed. - -After making various attempts to gain admission--groping our way from -one barricade to another, until we had nearly completed the circuit of -the town--we perceived a light glimmering at some little distance in the -country, and hoping it proceeded from some _rancha_, where we might -obtain shelter from an approaching storm, if not accommodation for the -night, we spurred our jaded animals towards it as fast as the ruggedness -of the ground would admit. It proved, however, to be only the remains of -a fire made for the purpose of destroying weeds; but a peasant lad, who -was warming his evening meal over the expiring embers, pointed out a -path leading to one of the town gates, at which, he said, we might, -perhaps, gain admission. - -Following his directions, we found the gate without much trouble; but a -difficulty now arose that promised to be of a more insuperable nature, -namely, that of _awaking the guard_, for the combined efforts of our -voices proved quite inadequate to the purpose. - -It was very vexatious, but irresistibly ludicrous; and, prompted by this -mixed feeling of wrath and merriment, we determined to try what effect -would be produced by a general discharge of our pistols, and, -accordingly riding close up to the gate, fired a volley in the air. - -A tremendous discharge of _carajos!_ responded to our _salvo_, and -soldiers, policemen, custom-house officers, and health-officers, sallied -forth, helter skelter, from the guard-house and adjacent dwellings, -making off "with the very extremest inch of possibility," under the -impression that the place was attacked. - -One _aduanero_, however, more enterprising and valiant than the rest, -ventured to peep through the bars of the stockade and demand our -business; on learning which he encouragingly invited the _urbanos_ to -return to their _military duty_, whilst he despatched a messenger to the -_Alcalde_ to request instructions for their further proceedings. - -We were subjected meanwhile to a most vexatious detention, occasioned by -various causes. Firstly, because the village dictator was nowhere to be -found. He had--so it eventually turned out--started from his comfortable -seat at the fire of the _posada_ (where, surrounded by a knot of -politicians, he was discussing the justice of abrogating the Salique -law), at the first report of our fire-arms, and, wrapping his cloak -around him, had rushed into the street, declaring his intention of -meeting death like the last of the Palæologi, rather than be recognised -and spared, to grace the triumph of a victorious enemy. Then we had to -wait for the key of the gate, which had been carried off in the pocket -of one of the runaway soldiers; and, lastly, for a light, the guard-lamp -having been overturned in the general confusion, and all the oil spilt. - -During the half hour's delay occasioned by these various untoward -circumstances, we were subjected to a long verbal examination, touching -the part of the country whence we had come; for having wandered round -the town in our attempts to gain admission, until we had reached a gate -at the very opposite point of the compass to that which points to -Andujar, the account we gave seemed to awaken great doubts of our -veracity in the minds of these vigilant functionaries; and, even after a -lantern had been brought, and our passports delivered up, we underwent a -minute personal examination, ere being permitted to repair to the -posada. - -The Spaniards say, that we English are "_victimas de la etiqueta_;" and, -certes, we may compliment them, in return, on being the most complete -_slaves to form_. Instances in proof thereof,--which, though on a -smaller scale, were scarcely less laughable than the -foregoing,--occurred daily in the course of our journey. _Par example_, -on leaving the _venta_ at Fuente de Piedra, where our sleeping apartment -was little better than the stable into which it opened, the hostess -insisted on serving our morning cup of chocolate on a table partially -covered with a dirty towel, saying, it would not be "_decente_" to allow -us to take it standing at the kitchen fire. - -Here again, at Torre Ximeno, the landlord was conducting us into what he -conceived to be a befitting apartment, when his better half cried out, -"_à la sala! à la sala!_"[157] We pricked up our ears, fancying we were -to be in clover. The _sala_, however, proved to be a room about ten feet -longer than that into which we were first shown, but in every other -respect its _fac simile_; that is to say, it had bare white-washed walls -and a plastered floor, was furnished with half a dozen low rush-bottomed -chairs, and ventilated by two apertures, which at some distant period -had been closed by shutters. - -The floor presented so uneven a surface, and was marked with so many -rents, that, until encouraged by the landlord's "_no tiene usted -cuidado_,"[158] I was particularly careful where I placed my feet, -taking it to be a highly finished model of the circumjacent sierras and -water-courses. - -After more than the usual difficulties about bills of health and -passports, we received a very civil message from the _Alcalde_, to say, -that his house, &c. &c., were at our disposal; but our host and his -helpmate seemed so well inclined to do what was in their power to make -us _comfortable_, that we declined his polite offer. - -Our landlady was still remarkably pretty, though the mother of four -children--a rare occurrence in Spain, where mothers, however young they -may be, usually look like old women. We had some little difficulty in -persuading her that we did not like garlic, and that we should be -satisfied with a very moderate quantity of oil in the _guisado_[159] she -undertook to prepare for our supper, and on which, with bread and fruit, -and some excellent wine, we made a hearty meal. - -Contrasts in Spain are most absurd. We slept on thin woollen mattresses, -spread upon the before-mentioned mountainous floor--the serrated ridges -of which we had some little difficulty in fitting to our ribs--and in -the morning were furnished with towels bordered with a kind of thread -lace and fringe to the depth of at least eighteen inches; very -ornamental, but by no means useful, since the serviceable part of the -towel was hardly get-at-able. - -On asking our hostess for the bill, we were referred to her husband, -which, as the Easterns say, led us to regard her with the eyes of -astonishment; for this reference from the lady and mistress to her -helpmate, is the exception to the rule, and it was to save trouble we -had applied to her, experience having taught us that the landlady was -generally the oracle on these occasions; _invariably_, indeed, when -there is any intention to cheat. - -This, without explanation, may be deemed a most ungallant accusation; I -do not mean by it, however, to screen my own sex at the expense of the -fairer, for the truth is, the man adds duplicity to his other sins, by -retiring from the impending altercation. This he does either from -thinking that imposition will come with a better grace from his better -half, or, that she will be more ingenious in finding out reasons for the -exorbitance of the demand, or, at all events, words in defending it; for -any attempt at expostulation is drowned in such a torrent of whys and -wherefores, that one is glad, _coute qui coute_, to escape from the -encounter. And thus, whilst the lady's volubility is extracting the -money from their lodger's pocket, mine host stands aloof, looking as -like a hen-pecked mortal as he possibly can, and shrugging his -shoulders from time to time, as much as to say, "It is none of my doing! -I would help you if I dare, but you see what a devil she is!" - -On the present occasion, however, we had no reason to remonstrate, for, -to a very moderate charge, were added numerous excuses for any thing -that might have been amiss in our accommodation, in consequence of their -ignorance of our wants. - -Torre Ximeno is situated in a narrow valley, watered by a fine stream; -its walls, however, reach to the crest of the hills on both sides, and -apparently rest on a Roman foundation. It contains a population of 1,800 -souls. From hence a road proceeds, by way of Martos and Alcalà la Real, -to Granada, but it is more circuitous than that by Jaen. - -From Torre Ximeno to that city is two long leagues, or about nine miles. -The road now takes a more easterly direction than heretofore, and, at -the distance of three miles, reaches the village of Torre Campo. The -rest of the way lies over an undulated country, which slants gradually -towards the mountains, that rise to the eastward. - -Jaen is situated on the outskirts of the great Sierra de Susana, which, -dividing the waters of the Guadalquivír and Genil, spreads as far south -as the vale of Granada. The city is built on the eastern slope of a -rough and very inaccessible ridge, whose summit is occupied by an old -castle, enclosed by extensive outworks. - -The ancient name of the place was Aurinx, and it appears to have stood -just without the limits of ancient Boetica. It is now the capital of -one of the kingdoms composing the province of Andalusia, and the see of -a bishop in the archbishoprick of Toledo. Its population amounts to at -least 20,000 souls. - -Jaen is in every respect a most interesting city. It is frequently -mentioned by the Roman historians, was equally noted in the time of the -Moors, from whom it was wrested by San Fernando, A.D. 1246, and of late -years has held a distinguished place in the pages of military history. -Its situation is picturesque in the extreme, the bright city being on -the edge of a rich and fertile basin, encased by wild and lofty -mountains. The asperity of the country to the south is such indeed, -that, until within the last few years no road practicable for carriages -penetrated it, and Jaen has consequently been but very-little visited by -travellers; for Granada and Cordoba, being the great objects of -attraction, the most direct road between those two places was that which -was generally preferred. - -A direct and excellent road has now, however, been completed, between -Granada and the capital, passing through Jaen. This route crosses the -Guadalquivír at Menjiber, and, directed thence on Baylen, falls into the -_arrecife_ from Cordoba to Madrid, ere it enters the défilés of the -Sierra Morena. - -The castle of Jaen stands 800 feet above the city, and is still a fine -specimen of a Moslem fortress, though the picturesque has been -sacrificed to the defensive by various French additions and demolitions. -It crowns the crest of a narrow ridge much in the style of the castle of -Ximena, to which, in other respects, it also bears a strong resemblance. -Its tanks and subterraneous magazines are in tolerable preservation, but -the exterior walls of the fortress were partially destroyed by the -French, in their hurried evacuation of it in 1812. - -The view it commands is strikingly fine. An extensive plain spreads -northward, reaching seemingly to the very foot of the distant Sierra -Morena, and on every other side rugged mountains rise in the immediate -vicinity of the city, which, clad with vines wherever their roots can -find holding ground, present a strange union of fruitfulness and -aridity. - -The city contains fifteen convents, and numerous manufactories of silk, -linen and woollen cloths, and mats, and has a thriving appearance. The -streets are, for the most part, so narrow, that, with outstretched -arms, I could touch the houses on both sides of them. - -The cathedral is a very handsome edifice of Corinthian architecture, 300 -feet long, and built in a very pure style; indeed every thing about it -is in good keeping for Spanish taste. The pavement is laid in chequered -slabs of black and white marble; the walls are hung with good paintings, -but not encumbered with them; the various altars, though enriched with -fine specimens of marbles and jaspers, are not gaudily ornamented; the -organ is splendid in appearance and rich in tone. - -Some paintings by Moya, particularly a Holy Family, and the visit of -Elizabeth to the Virgin Mary, are remarkably good; and the _Capilla -sagrada_ contains several others by the same master, which are equally -worthy of notice: their frames of polished red marble have a good -effect. - -The only specimens of sculpture of which the cathedral can boast, are -some weeping cherubim, done to the very life. The greatest curiosity it -contains is the figure of Our Saviour on the cross, dressed in a kilt; -but the treasure of treasures of the holy edifice, the proud boast of -the favoured city itself, in fact, is the _Santa faz_--the Holy face. - -The _Santa faz_--so our conductor explained to us--is the impression of -Our Saviour's face, left in stains of blood on the white napkin which -bound up his head when deposited in the sepulchre. This cloth was thrice -folded over the face, so that three of these "_pinturas_," as the priest -called them, were taken. That of Jaen, he said, was the second or middle -one, the others are in Italy--where, I know not, but I have some -recollection of having heard of them when in that country. - -This miraculous picture is only to be viewed on very particular -occasions, or by paying a very considerable fee; but we were perfectly -satisfied with our cicerone's assurance of its "striking resemblance" to -Our Saviour, without requiring the ocular demonstration he was most -solicitous to afford. - -Attached to the cathedral is a kitchen for preparing the morning -chocolate of the priests, and which serves also as a snuggery, -where-unto they retire to smoke their _legitimos_ during the breaks in -their tedious lental services. - -The _Parador de los Caballeros_, in the Plaza _del Mercado_ is -remarkably good, and the view from the front windows, looking towards -the castle is very fine. - -The distance from Jaen to Granada, by the newly made _arrecife_, is -fifty-one miles. It descends gradually into the valley of the Campillos, -arriving at, and crossing the river about two miles from Jaen. - -The valley is wide, flat, and covered with a rich alluvial deposit; and -extends for several leagues in both directions along the course of the -stream, encircling the city with an ever-verdant belt of cultivation. - -For the succeeding three leagues, the road proceeds along this valley, -at first bordered with gardens, orchards, and vineyards, amongst which -numerous cottages and water-mills are scattered, but, after advancing -about five miles, overhung by rocky ridges, and occasionally shaded with -forest-trees. - -On a steep mound, on the right hand, forming the first mountain gorge -that the road enters, is situated the _Castillo de la Guarda_, and, at -the distance of three leagues from Jaen, is the _Torre de la Cabeza_, -similarly situated on the left of the road. Beyond this, another verdant -belt of cultivation gladdens the eye, extending about a mile and a half -along the course of the Campillos. In the midst of this, is the _Venta -del Puerto Suelo_, on arriving at which our _mozo_, who for several days -had been suffering from indisposition, came to inform us "_que no podía -mas_,"[160] requested we would leave him there to rest for a couple of -days; when he hoped to be able to rejoin us at Granada by means of a -_Galera_ that travelled the road periodically. - -We could not but accede to his request, and as we purposed reaching -Granada on the following day, the loss of his attendance for so short a -period was of little importance; the only difficulty was, who should -lead the baggage animal.--Fortune befriended us. - -On our arrival at the inn we had been accosted by a smart-looking young -fellow, in the undress uniform of a Spanish infantry soldier, who, -seeing the disabled state of our Esquire, volunteered his services to -lead our horses to the stable, and minister to their wants; and now, -learning from our _mozo_ how matters stood, he again came forward, and -offered to be our attendant during the remainder of the journey to -Granada, to which place he himself was proceeding. - -We gladly accepted his proffered services, and, after a short rest, -remounted our horses, and pursued our way; the young soldier--like an -old campaigner--seating himself between our portmanteaus on the back of -the baggage animal. Whilst jogging on before us, I observed, for the -first time, that he carried a bright tin case suspended from his -shoulder by a silken cord, and curious to know the purpose to which it -was applied, asked what it contained. - -Without uttering a word in reply, he took off the case, produced -therefrom a roll of parchment, and, spreading before us a long document -concluding with the words _Io el Rey_,[161] offered it for my perusal. -If my surprise was great at the length of the scroll, it was not -diminished on finding, after wading through the usual verbose and -bombastic preamble, that it dubbed our new acquaintance a knight of the -first class of _San Fernando_, and decorated him with the ribbon and -silver clasp of the same distinguished order. - -On first addressing him at the Venta, I had noticed a bit of ribbon on -his breast, but, aware that the very smell of powder, even though it -should be but that of his own musket, often _entitles_ a Spanish soldier -to a decoration; and, indeed, that it is more frequently an -acknowledgment of so many months' pay due, than of so much good service -done,[162] I had abstained from questioning him concerning it; but that -the first class decoration of a military order should have been bestowed -on one so low in rank as a corporal, I confess, surprised me; and I -concluded that its possessor was either the brother of the mistress of -some great man, or that he was passing off some other person's _honors_ -as his own. - -Being a very young man, it was evident he could not have seen much -service; my suspicions were, therefore, excusable, and I took the -liberty of cross-questioning him concerning the fields wherein his -laurels had been gathered. The result gave me such satisfaction that I -feel in justice bound to make the _amende honorable_ to the gallant -fellow for the foul suspicions I had entertained, by giving my readers -his history. As, however, it is somewhat long, I will postpone it for -the present--as, indeed, not having arrived at its conclusion for -several days, it is but methodically correct I should do--merely -premising in this place, that, besides the _Diploma_, the tin case -contained a statement of the particular services for which he obtained -his knighthood, drawn up and attested by the officers of his regiment. - -About a mile beyond the Venta where we had fallen in with our new -attendant, the country again becomes very wild and broken, and the hills -are covered with pine woods. The valley of the Campillos gets more and -more confined as the road proceeds, and is bounded by precipitous rocks; -and, at length, on reaching the _Puerta de Arenas_, the passage, for the -road and river together, does not exceed sixty feet, the cliffs rising -perpendicularly on both sides to a considerable height. - -This is a very defensible pass, looking towards Granada, but not so in -the opposite direction, as it is commanded by higher ground. It is about -eighteen miles from Jaen. - -On emerging from the pass, an open, cultivated valley presents itself; -towards the head of which, distant about four miles, is Campillos -Arenas, a wretched village, containing some fifty or sixty _vecinos_. We -were stopt at the entrance by an old beggarman, who was officiating as -_health_ officer, and demanded our passports, which, on receiving, he -ceremoniously forwarded to Head Quarters by a ragged, barefoot urchin, -with the promise of an _ochavo_[163] if he used despatch in bringing -them back to us. - -Our passports had now become a serious nuisance, from being completely -covered with _visés_ both inside and out; for, of course, the curiosity -of the natives was proportioned to the number of signatures they -contained, and their astonishment was boundless that we should be -travelling south at such a moment. At length, our papers were returned -to us, and the boy gained his promised reward by running with all his -might, to prove that the tedious delay we experienced was not -attributable to him. - -Proceeding onwards, in three quarters of an hour, we reached the -_Parador de San Rafael_, a newly built house of call for the diligence, -recently established on this road. It is about twenty-four miles from -Jaen, and twenty-seven from Granada, though, as the crow flies, the -distance is rather shorter, perhaps, to the latter city than to the -first named. It is a place of much resort, and we were happy to find -that San Rafael presided over comfortable beds, and good dinners, though -rather careless of the state of the wine-cellar. - -We started at an early hour next morning, our knightly attendant, with -his red epaulettes, and janty foraging cap, together with a _de haut en -bas_ manner assumed towards the passing peasantry and arrieros, causing -us to be regarded with no inconsiderable degree of respect. - -The road, for the first eight miles, is one continuation of zig zags -over a very mountainous country, and must be kept up at an immense -expense to the government, for there is but very little traffic upon it. -The hills are principally covered with forests of ilex, but patches of -land have recently been taken into cultivation in the valleys, and -houses are thinly scattered along the road. At ten miles and a half, we -passed the first village we had seen since leaving Campillos Arenas. It -is about a mile from the road on the left. The country now becomes less -rugged than heretofore, though it continues equally devoid of -cultivation and inhabitants. - -We were much disappointed at not finding a good _posada_ on the road, as -we had been led to expect. We passed two in process of building on a -magnificent scale, but nothing could be had at either. At last, after -riding four long leagues--at a foot's pace, on account of our baggage -animal--a farmer took compassion upon us, and, leading the way to his -_Cortijo_, supplied our famished horses with a feed of barley, and set -before ourselves all the good things his house afforded--melons, grapes, -fresh eggs, and delicious bread. - -We arrived at the farmer's dinner hour, and a wide circle, comprising -his wife, children, cowherds, ploughboys, and dairymaids, was already -formed round the huge family bowl of _gazpacho fresco_, of which we -received a general invitation to partake. It was far too light a meal, -however, to satisfy the cravings of our appetites, and politely -declining to dip our spoons in their common mess, we commenced making -the usual preparations for an English breakfast, by unpacking our -travelling canteen and placing a skillet of water upon the fire. - -The curiosity of the peasantry on these occasions amused us exceedingly. -In this instance the spectators, who probably had never before come in -such close contact with Englishmen, watched each of our movements with -the greatest interest. The beating up an egg as a substitute for milk, -excited universal astonishment; and the production of knives, forks, and -spoons, took their breath away; but when our travelling teapot was -placed on the table, their wonderment defies description; many started -from their seats to obtain a near view of the extraordinary machine, -and our host, after a minute examination, venturing, at last, to expose -his ignorance by asking to what use it was applied, exclaimed in -raptures, as if it was a thing he had heard of, "_y esa es una -tepà!_"[164] "_Una tepà!_" was repeated in all the graduated intonations -of the three generations of spectators present; "_una tepà! caramba! que -gente tan fina los Ingleses!_" - -We now carried on the joke by inflating an air cushion, but the use to -which it was applied alone surprised them; for our host with a nod -signifying "I understand," took down a huge pig-skin of wine, and made -preparations to transfer a portion of its contents to our portable -_caoutchouc_ pillow. On explaining the purpose to which it was applied, -"_Jesus! una almohada!_"[165] exclaimed all the women with one -accord--"_Que gente tan deleytosa!_"[166] - -Our percussion pistols next excited their astonishment, and by ocular -demonstration only could we convince them that they were fired without -"una piedra;"[167] but when I assured our host that, in England, -_diligences_ were propelled by steam at the rate of ten leagues an hour, -his amazement was evidently stretched beyond the bounds of credulity. -"_Como! sin caballos, sin mulas, sin nada, sino el vapor!_"[168] he -ejaculated; and his shoulders gradually rising above his ears, as I -repeated the astounding assertion, he turned with a look, half horror, -half amazement, to his assembled countrymen, saying as plainly as eyes -could speak--either these English deal largely with the devil, or are -most extraordinary romancers. - -If our equipment surprised them, we were not less astonished at the -number of cats, without tails, that were prowling about the house; and -asking the reason for mutilating the unfortunate creatures in this -unnatural way, our host replied, "These animals, to be useful, must have -free access to every part of the premises; but, when their tails are -long, they do incredible mischief amongst the plates, dishes, and other -friable articles, arranged upon the dresser, or left upon the table; -whereas, docked as you now see them, they move about without ceremony, -and, even in the midst of a labyrinth of crockery, do not the slightest -damage. All the mischief of this animal is in his tail." - -We had great difficulty in persuading our hospitable entertainer to -accept of any remuneration for what he had furnished us, and only -succeeded by requesting he would distribute our gift amongst his -children. - -From his farm, which is called the _Cortijo de los Arenales_, to -Granada, is nine miles. The country, during the whole distance, is -undulated, and mostly covered with vines and olives. On the right, some -leagues distant, we saw the town and _tajo_ of Moclin; and at three -miles from the _Cortijo_ crossed the river Cubillas, which, flowing -westward to the plain of Granada, empties itself into the Genil. A -little way beyond this the Sierra de Elvira rises abruptly on the right, -and thenceforth the ground falls very gradually all the way to Granada. - -Our sojourn at Granada was prolonged much beyond the period we had -originally intended, by the difficulty of ascertaining the truth of a -report that the cholera had appeared at Malaga; but, at length, it was -officially notified by a proclamation of the captain-general, that in -answer to a despatch sent to the governor of Malaga, he had been assured -that city was perfectly free from the disease; and a caravan, composed -of numberless _galeras_, _coches_, and _arrieros_, that had been -detained at Granada for a fortnight in consequence of this rumour, -forthwith proceeded to the sea-port. - -Sending our baggage animal forward, directing the mozo--whose -indisposition had abated so as to allow of his rejoining us, and -resuming his duty--to proceed along the high road to Loja until we -overtook him, we set off ourselves at mid-day to visit the _Soto de -Roma_.[169] - -The road thither strikes off from the _arrecife_ to Loja, soon after -passing the city of Santa Fé,[170] and traversing Chauchina, after much -twisting and turning, reaches Fuente Vaquero, a village belonging to the -Duke of Wellington, where his agent, General O'Lawler, has a house. - -From thence a long avenue leads to the _Casa Real_, which is situated on -the right bank of the Genil. The avenue, both trees and road, is in a -very bad state. On the left hand there is a wood of some extent; the -forest-trees it contains are chiefly elms and white poplars, but there -are also a few oaks. The ground is extremely rich, and was covered with -fine crops of maize and hemp; and, on the whole, it struck me the estate -was in better order than the properties adjoining it. - -The house, however, which at the period of my former visit to Granada -was in a tolerable state of repair, I now found in a wretched plight. -The court-yard was made the general receptacle for manure; the -coach-house and stables were turned into barns and cattle-sheds; the -garden was overgrown with weeds; and, basking in the sun, lay young -pigs amongst the roses. - -From having been the favourite retreat of the Minister Wall, it has -degenerated, in fact, into a very second-rate description of farmhouse. -This change, however, was inevitable; for, besides that the taste for -country-houses is very rare amongst Spaniards, and that the difficulty -of procuring a tenant who would keep it in order would, consequently, be -very great, the situation of the house is not such as a lover of fine -scenery would choose in the vicinity of Granada. - -The estate of the Soto de Roma has suffered great damage within the last -few years, from the Genil having burst its banks, laid waste the -country, and formed itself a new bed; and the stream not being now -properly banked in, keeps continually "_comiendo_"[171] the ground on -both sides. This evil should be corrected immediately, or, in the event -of another extraordinary rise in the river, it may lead to incalculable -mischief. The best and cheapest plan of doing this, would be to force -the stream back into its old channel. The elm woods on the estate would -furnish excellent piles for this purpose, and, by being cut down, would -clear some valuable ground which at present lies almost profitless. - -After recrossing the Genil we arrived at another village, inhabited by -the peasantry of the Soto de Roma, and soon after at a wretched place -called Cijuela. The country in its vicinity was flooded for a -considerable extent, and we had great difficulty in following the road, -and avoiding the ditches that bound it. At length we got once more upon -the _arrecife_, and reached Lachar; a vile place, reckoned four leagues -from Granada. - -From thence to the Venta de Cacin is called two leagues, but they are of -Brobdignag measurement. The road is heavy, and the country becomes hilly -soon after leaving Lachar. A league beyond the Venta de Cacin is the -Venta del Pulgar, situated in the midst of gardens and olive -plantations. - -It was 11 P.M. when we arrived, for, having missed our way in fording -the wide bed of the river Cacin (which crosses the road just beyond the -Venta of that name), we had wandered for two hours in the dark; and -might have done so until morning, but that our progress was cut short by -the river Genil. We thought the wisest plan would be to return to the -venta, and endeavour to procure a guide, which we fortunately succeeded -in doing. The _ventero_ had previously informed us that he had seen our -_mozo_ pass on with the baggage animal towards Loja, which made us -rather anxious for its safety, otherwise we should have rested at his -house for the night. - -On arriving at the Venta del Pulgar, we found our attendant established -there, and in some little alarm at our prolonged absence. Indeed the -faithful fellow was so uneasy, that he was about proceeding on a fresh -horse in search of us. The night was excessively cold, and we duly -appreciated the fire and hot supper his providence had caused to be -prepared. - -This venta is but a short league from Loja, the ride to which place is -very delightful, the rich valley of the Genil (here contracted to the -width of a mile) being on the right, a fine range of mountains on the -left, whilst the river frequently approaches close to the road, adding -by its snakelike windings to the beauty of the scenery. - -The town of Loja stands on the south side of a rocky gorge, by which the -Genil escapes from the fertile _Vega_ of Granada. The mountains on both -sides the river are lofty, and of an inaccessible nature, so that the -old Moorish fortress, though occupying the widest part of the défilé, -completely commands this important outlet from the territory of Granada, -as well as the bridge over the Genil. - -It was a place of great strength in times past, and Ferdinand and -Isabella were repulsed with great loss on their first attempt to gain -possession of it. The second attack of the "Catholic kings," made some -years afterwards (i. e. in 1487), was more successful, and the English -auxiliaries, under the Earl of Rivers, particularly distinguished -themselves on the occasion. - -Loja is proverbially noted for the fertility of its gardens and -orchards, the abundance and purity of its springs, and the loose morals -and hard features of its inhabitants. Its situation is peculiarly -picturesque, the town being built upon a steep acclivity, unbosomed in -groves of fruit trees and overlooked by a toppling mountain. The view of -the distant _Sierra Nevada_ gives additional interest to the scenery. It -contains a population of 9000 souls. - -From Loja to Malaga is forty-three miles. The country throughout is -extremely mountainous, but the road, nevertheless, is so good as to be -traversed by a diligence. Soon after leaving Loja, a road strikes off to -the right to Antequera, four leagues; and this, in fact, is the great -road from Granada to Seville, and the only portion of it that is -interrupted by mountains. - -The _arrecife_ to Malaga, leaving the village of Alfarnate to the left, -at sixteen miles, reaches the solitary venta of the same name; and two -miles beyond, the equally lonely venta of Dornejo, considered the -half-way house from Loja. The view from hence is remarkably fine, and we -enjoyed the scenery to perfection, having remained the night at the -venta, and witnessed the splendid effects of both the setting and rising -sun. - -This is the highest point the road reaches, and is, I should think, -about 4000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean. - -From the Venta de Dornejo the road proceeds to El Colmenar, eight miles. -The mountains that encompass this little town are clad to their very -summits with vines, and from the luscious grapes grown in its -neighbourhood is made the sweet wine, well known in England under the -name of Mountain. - -From El Colmenar the road is conducted nine miles along the spine of a -narrow tortuous ridge, that divides the Gualmedina, or river of Malaga, -from various streams flowing to the eastward, reaching, at last, a point -where a splendid view is obtained of the rich vale of Malaga, encircled -by the boldly outlined mountains of Mijas, Monda, and Casarabonela. The -_coup d'oeil_ is truly magnificent; the bright city lies basking in -the sun, on the margin of the Mediterranean, seemingly at the -spectator's feet; but eight miles of a continual descent have yet to be -accomplished ere reaching it. - -The engineer's pertinacious adherence to his plan of keeping the road on -one unvarying inclined plane, tries the patience to an extraordinary -degree, but the work is admirably executed. In the whole of these last -eight miles there is not one house on the road side, though several neat -villas are scattered amongst the ravines below it, on drawing near -Malaga. - -This difficult passage through the Serranía has been effected only at an -enormous cost of money and labour; but, as a work of art, it ranks with -any of the splendid roads lately made across the Alps. The scenery along -it, especially after gaining the southern side of the principal -mountain-chain, when the Mediterranean is brought to view, surpasses any -thing that is to be met with in those more celebrated, because more -frequented, cloud-capped regions. - -Another very fine road has been opened through the mountains between -Malaga and Antequera. The scenery along this is very grand, though -inferior to that just described. The distance between the two places is -about twenty-eight miles, reckoned eight leagues. The road is conducted -along the valley of Rio Gordo, or Campanillos; and, it is alleged, -through some private influence was made unnecessarily circuitous, to -visit the Venta de Galvez. This, and two other ventas, are almost the -only habitations on the road. About four miles from Antequera, the road -reaches the summit of the great mountain-ridge that pens in the -Guadaljorce, which falls very rapidly on its northern side. - -Antequera is situated near the foot of the mountain, but in a hollow -formed by a swelling hill, which, detached from the chain of sierra, -shelters it to the north. It is a large, well-built, and populous city, -contains twenty religious houses, numerous manufactories of linen and -woollen cloths, silks, serges, &c., and 40,000 souls. - -An old castle, situated on a conical knoll, overlooks the city to the -east. It formerly contained a valuable collection of ancient armour, but -the greater part has been removed. - -The city of _Anticaria_ is mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus; but, -as no notice is taken of it by Pliny, it probably was known in his day -by some other name. Some antiquaries have imagined Antequera to be -Singilia; but this is very improbable, as it is nearly four leagues -distant from the Singilis (Genil). - -Even the Guadaljorce does not approach within a mile of the city, which -depends upon its fountains for water; for though a fine rivulet flows -down from the mountains at the back of the city, washing the eastern -base of the castle hill, and sweeping round to the westward, where it -unites with the Guadaljorce, yet it merely serves to render the valley -fruitful, and to turn the wheels of the mills which supply the city with -flour and oil. - -At a league north-east from Antequera a lofty conical mountain, -distinguished by the romantic name of _El Peñon de los Enamorados_ (Rock -of the Lovers), rises from the plain; and a league beyond it is the town -of Archidona, on the great road from Granada to Seville. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - MALAGA--EXCURSION TO MARBELLA AND - MONDA--CHURRIANA--BENALMAINA--FUENGIROLA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF SUEL--SCALE TO BE ADOPTED, IN ORDER TO MAKE - THE MEASUREMENTS GIVEN IN THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS AGREE WITH THE - ACTUAL DISTANCE FROM MALAGA TO CARTEIA--ERRORS OF CARTER--CASTLE OF - FUENGIROLA--ROAD TO MARBELLA--TOWERS AND CASA FUERTES--DISPUTED - SITE OF SALDUBA--DESCRIPTION OF MARBELLA--ABANDONED MINES--DISTANCE - TO GIBRALTAR. - - -We found Malaga a deserted city, for the dread of cholera had carried -off half its inhabitants; not, however, to their last home, but to -Alhaurin, Coin, Churriara, and other towns in the vicinity, in the hope -of postponing their visit to a final resting-place by a temporary change -to a more salubrious atmosphere than that of the fetid seaport. - -Our zealous and indefatigable consul, Mr. Mark, still, however, remained -at his post, and his hospitality and kindness rendered our short stay as -agreeable as, under existing circumstances, it well could be. - -Understanding that a vessel was about to proceed to Ceuta in the course -of a few days, we resolved to take advantage of this favourable -opportunity of visiting that fortress--the Port Jackson of Spain; and -having already seen every thing worthy of observation in Malaga (of -which due notice has been taken in a former chapter), we agreed to -devote the intervening days to a short excursion to Marbella, Monda, and -other interesting towns in the vicinity. - -Leaving, therefore, the still hot, but no longer bustling city, late in -the afternoon, we took the road to the ferry near the mouth of the -Guadaljorce, and leaving the road to _El Retiro_ to the right on gaining -the southern bank of the river, proceeded to Churriana. - -We were disappointed both in the town and in the accommodation afforded -at the inn, for the place being much resorted to by the merchants of -Malaga, we naturally looked forward to something above the common run of -Spanish towns and Spanish posadas, whereas we found both the one and the -other rather below par. The town is quite as dirty as Malaga, but, -perhaps, somewhat more wholesome; for the filth with which the streets -are strewed _not_ being watered by a trickling stream, to keep it in a -state of fermentation throughout the summer, is soon burnt up, and -becomes innoxious. - -The town stands at a slight elevation above the vale of Malaga, and -commands a fine view to the eastward. - -We left the wretched venta betimes on the following morning, and -proceeded towards Marbella, leaving on our left the little village of -Torre Molinos, situated on the Mediterranean shore (distant one league -from Churriana), and reaching Benalmaina in two hours and a half. The -road keeps the whole way within half a mile of the sea, and about the -same distance from a range of barren sierras on the right. No part of it -is good but the ascent to Benalmaina (or, as it is sometimes, and -perhaps more correctly written, Benalmedina), is execrable. - -This village is surrounded with vineyards, and groves of orange and fig -trees; is watered by a fine clear stream, which serves to irrigate some -patches of garden-ground, as well as to turn numerous mill-wheels; and, -from the general sterility of the country around, has obtained a -reputation for amenity of situation that it scarcely deserves. - -In something less than an hour, descending the whole time, we reached -the Mediterranean shore, and continuing along it for a mile, arrived at -the Torre Blanca--a high white tower, situated on a rugged cliff that -borders the coast, and in the vicinity of which are numerous ruins. Some -little distance beyond this the cliffs terminate, and a fine plain, -covered with gardens and orchards, stretches inland for several miles. - -Nature has been peculiarly bountiful to this sunny valley, for the river -of Mijas winds through, and fertilizes the whole of its eastern side; -whilst the western portion is watered by the river Gomenarro, or--word -offensive to British ears--Fuengirola. - -The plain is about two miles across, and near its western extremity; and -a little removed from the seashore is the fishing village of Fuengirola. -It is a small and particularly dirty place, but contains a population of -1000 souls. The distance from Malaga is reckoned by the natives five -leagues, "three long and two short," according to their curious mode of -computation; but, I think, in reducing them to English miles, the usual -average of four per league may be taken. The last league of the road is -very good. The town of Mijas, rich in wine and oil, is perched high up -on the side of a rugged mountain, about four miles north of Fuengirola. -A _trocha_ leads from thence, over the mountains, into the valley of the -Guadaljorce, debouching upon Alhaurinejo; and to those in whose -travelling scales the picturesque outweighs the breakneck, I would -strongly recommend this route from Malaga in preference to the tamer, -somewhat better, and, perhaps, rather shorter road, that borders the -coast. - -The old and, alas! too celebrated castle of Fuengirola, or Frangirola, -occupies the point of a rocky tongue that juts some way into the sea, -about half a mile beyond the fishing village of the same name. It is a -work of the Moors, built, as some say, on an ancient foundation, -imagined to be that of Suel; whilst others maintain, that the vestigia -of antiquity built into its walls, were brought there from some place in -the neighbourhood. - -That _Suel_ did not stand here appears to me very evident; for though -the actual distance from Malaga to Fuengirola exceeds but little that -given in the Itinerary of Antoninus from Malaca to Suel, viz., -twenty-one miles--calculating seventy-five Roman miles to a degree of -the meridian;--yet, as the Itinerary makes the whole distance from -Malaca to Calpe Carteia eighty-nine miles,[172] whereas, even following -all the sinuosities of the coast, it can be eked out only to eighty (of -the above standard), it seems clear that the length of the mile has been -somewhat overrated. - -That I may not incur the reproach of "extreme confidence," in venturing -to publish an opinion differing from that of various learned antiquaries -who have written on the subject, I will endeavour to show that my doubt -has, at all events, some reasonable foundation to rest upon. - -Supposing that the distances given in the Itinerary between Malaca and -Calpe Carteia were respectively correct, but that the error--which, in -consequence, was evident--had been made by over-estimating the length of -the Roman mile in use at the period the Itinerary was compiled, I found, -by dividing the _actual_ distance into eighty-nine parts (following such -an irregular line as a road, considering the ruggedness of the country, -might be supposed to take), that it gave a scale of eighty-three and a -third of such divisions to a degree of the meridian; a scale which, as I -have observed in a former chapter, is mentioned by Strabo, on the -authority of Eratosthenes, as one in use amongst the Romans. - -Now, by measuring off twenty-one such parts along the indented line of -coast from Malaga westward, to fix the situation of Suel, I find that, -according to this scale, it would be placed about a mile beyond the -Torre Blanca; that is, at the commencement of the fertile valley, which -has been mentioned as stretching some way inland, and at the bottom of -the bay, of which the rocky ledge occupied by the castle of Fuengirola -forms the western boundary; certainly a much more suitable site, either -for a commercial city, or for a fortress, than the low, rocky headland -of Fuengirola, which neither affords enough space for a town to stand -upon, nor is sufficiently elevated above the adjacent country, to have -the command that was usually sought for in building fortresses previous -to the invention of artillery. - -Proceeding onwards, and measuring twenty-four divisions (of this same -scale) from the point where I suppose Suel to have stood, along the yet -rugged coast to the westward of Fuengirola, the site of Cilniana, the -next station of the Itinerary, is fixed a little beyond where the town -of Marbella now stands; another most probable spot for the Phoenicians -or Romans to have selected for a station; as, in the first place, the -proximity of the high, impracticable, Sierra de Juanel, would have -enabled a fortress there situated to intercept most completely the -communication along the coast; and, in the second, the vicinity of a -fertile plain, and the valuable mines of Istan (from whence a fine -stream flows), would have rendered it a desirable site for a port. - -The next distance, thirty-four miles to Barbariana, brings me to the -_mouth_ of the Guadiaro, (which _can be_ no other than the Barbesula of -the Romans, if we suppose that the road continued, as heretofore, along -the seashore); or, carries me across that river, and also the -Sogarganta, which falls into it, if, striking inland, _as soon as the -nature of the country permitted_, we imagine the road to have been -directed by the straightest line to its point of destination. - -Now, in the first case, the discovery of numerous vestigia, and -inscriptions at a spot two miles up from the mouth, on the eastern bank -of the Barbesula, (i. e. Guadiaro) have clearly proved that to be the -position of the city[173] bearing the same name as the river. We must -not, therefore, look in its neighbourhood for Barbariana; especially as -the vestiges of this ancient town are twelve _English_ miles from -Carteia, whereas the distance from Barbariana to Carteia is stated in -the Itinerary to be but ten _Roman_ miles. - -In the second case, having crossed the Sogarganta about a mile above its -confluence with the Guadiaro, we arrive, at the end of the prescribed -thirty-four miles from Cilniana, at the mouth of a steep ravine by which -the existing road from Gaucin and Casares to San Roque ascends the -chain of hills forming the southern boundary of the valley, and this -spot is not only well calculated for a military station, but exceeds by -very little the distance of ten miles to Carteia, specified in the -Itinerary. - -I suppose, therefore, that Barbariana stood here, where it would have -been on the most direct line that a road _could take_ between Estepona -and Carteia, as well as on that which presented the fewest difficulties -to be surmounted in the nature of the country. - -I will now follow the Roman Itinerary as laid down by Mr. Carter, in his -"Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga."[174] - -The first station, Suel, he fixes at the Castle of Fuengirola; the -second, Cilniana, at the ruins of what he calls Old Estepona. These he -describes as lying _three leagues_ to the eastward of the modern town of -that name, and upwards of a league to the westward of the Torre de las -Bovedas, in the vicinity of which he assumes Salduba stood; but this -very site of Salduba (i. e. the Torre de las Bovedas) is little more -than _two leagues_ from modern Estepona, being just half way between -that place and Marbella--the distance from the one town to the other -scarcely exceeding four leagues, or sixteen English miles--so that, in -point of fact, he fixes Cilniana at _four miles_ to the eastward of -Estepona, instead of three leagues. - -Passing over this error, however, and allowing that his site of Cilniana -was where _he wished it to be_, Mr. Carter, nevertheless, still found -himself in a difficulty; for he had already far exceeded the greater -portion of the _actual_ distance between Malaga and Carteia, although -but half the number of miles specified in the Itinerary were disposed -of; so that twenty-five miles measured along the coast now brought him -within the prescribed distance of Barbariana from Carteia (ten miles), -instead of thirty-four, as stated in the Itinerary! - -To extricate himself, therefore, from this dilemma, he carries the road, -first to the town of Barbesula, situated near the mouth of the river of -the same name, and then _eight miles up the stream_ to Barbariana. - -The objections to this most eccentric route are, however, manifold and -obvious. In the first place, had the road visited Barbesula, that town -would assuredly have been noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, because -it would have made so much more convenient a break in the distance -between Cilniana and Carteia, than Barbariana. - -In the next,--had the road been taken to the mouth of the Guadiaro, it -would _there_ have been as near Carteia as from any other point along -the course of that river, with nothing in the nature of the intervening -country to prevent its being carried straight across it: every step, -therefore, that the road was taken up the stream would have -unnecessarily increased the distance to be travelled. - -Thirdly,--had Barbariana been situated _eight miles_[175] up the river, -the road from Barbesula must not only have been carried that distance -out of the way to visit it, but, for the greater part of the way, must -actually have been led back again towards the point of the compass -whence it had been brought; and the town of Barbariana would thereby -have been situated nearly eighteen miles from Calpe Carteia, instead of -ten. - -Mr. Carter probably fell into this error, through ignorance of the -direction whence the Guadiaro flows, for though the last four miles of -its course is easterly, yet its previous direction is due south, or -straight upon Gibraltar; and, consequently, taking the road up the -stream beyond the distance of _four miles_, would have been leading it -away from its destination. And if, on the other hand, we suppose that -Mr. Carter's mistake be simply in the name of the river, and that, by -two leagues up the Guadiaro, he meant up its tributary, the -Sogarganta;[176] still, so long as the road continued following the -course of that stream, it would get no nearer to Carteia, and was, -therefore, but uselessly increasing the distance. - -It is quite unreasonable, however, to suppose that the Romans, who were -in the habit of making their roads as straight as possible, should have -so unnecessarily departed from their rule in this instance, and not only -have increased the distance by so doing, but also the difficulties to be -encountered; for, in point of fact, a road would be more readily carried -to the Guadiaro by leaving the seashore on approaching Manilba, and -directing it straight upon Carteia, than by continuing it along the -rugged and indented coast that presents itself from thence to the mouth -of the river. - -Objections may be taken to the sites I have fixed upon for the different -towns mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, from the absence of all vestiges -at those particular spots; but when the ease with which all traces of -ancient places are lost is considered, particularly those situated on -the seashore, I think such objections must fall to the ground: and, -indeed, Carter himself, who found fault with Florez for supposing the -town of Salduba[177] _could_ have entirely disappeared, furnishes a -glaring instance of the futility of such objections, when he states that -not the least remains of Barbesula were to be traced, whereas, _now_, -they are quite visible. - -The castle of Fuengirola--to which it is time to return from this long -digression--has lately undergone a thorough repair; the whole of the -western front, indeed, has been rebuilt, and the rest of the walls have -been modernised, though they still continue to be badly flanked by small -projecting square towers, and are exposed to their very foundations, so -that the fortress _ought not_ to withstand even a couple of hours' -battering. - -From hence to Marbella is four leagues. During the first, the road is -bad enough, and, for the remaining three, but indifferently good. The -last eight miles of the stony track may, however, be avoided by riding -along the sandy beach, which, when the sun is on the decline, the breeze -light and westerly, and, above all, when the _tide is out_, is pleasant -enough. I may as well observe here, that the Mediterranean Sea really -does ebb and flow, notwithstanding anything others may have stated to -the contrary. - -The whole line of coast bristles with towers, built originally to give -intelligence by signal of the appearance of an enemy. They are of all -shapes and ages; some circular, having a Roman look; others angular, and -either Moorish, or built after Saracenic models; many are of -comparatively recent construction, though all seem equally to be going -to decay. - -These towers can be entered only by means of ladders, and such as are in -a habitable state are occupied by Custom-house guards, or, more -correctly, Custom-house defrauders. Here and there a _Casa fuerta_ has -been erected along the line, which, furnished with artillery and a small -garrison of regular troops, serves as a _point d'appui_ to a certain -portion of the _peculative_ cordon, enabling the soldiers to render -assistance to the revenue officers in bringing the smugglers to _terms_. - -Marbella has ever been a bone of contention amongst the antiquaries; -some asserting that it does not occupy the site of any ancient city; -others, that it is on the ruins of _Salduba_. Of this latter opinion is -La Martinière, who certainly has better reason for maintaining than -Carter for disputing it. For if that city "stood on a steep headland, -between which and the hill" (behind) "not a beast could pass," it could -not possibly have been on the site where our countryman places it, viz., -at the ruins near the _Torre de las Bovedas_ (seven miles to the -westward), where a wide plain stretches inland upwards of two miles. - -In fact, there are but two headlands between the river Guadiaro and -Marbella, where a town could be built at all answering the foregoing -description; namely, at the _Torre de la Chullera_ and the _Torre del -Arroyo Vaquero_, the former only three, the latter ten miles from the -Guadiaro: and a far more likely spot than either of these is the knoll -occupied by the _Torre del Rio Real_, about two miles to the _eastward_ -of Marbella.[178] - -Marbella stands slightly elevated above the sea, and its turreted walls -and narrow streets declare it to be thoroughly Moorish. Its sea-wall is -not actually washed by the waves of the Mediterranean, so that the town -may be avoided by such as do not wish to be delayed by or subjected to -the nuisance of a passport scrutiny; and the Spanish saying, "_Marbella -es bella, pero no entras en ella_,"[179] significantly, though -mysteriously, suggests the prudence of staying outside its walls; but -this poetical scrap of advice was perhaps the only thing some luckless -_contrabandista_ had left to bestow upon his countrymen, and we, being -in search of a dinner and night's lodging, submitted patiently to the -forms and ceremonies prescribed on such occasions at the gates of a -fortress. - -To do the Spaniards justice, they are not usually very long in their -operations, the first offer being in most instances accepted without -haggling; and accordingly, the _peseta_ pocketed, and every thing -pronounced _corriente_, we proceeded without further obstruction to the -_Posada de la Corona_, which, situated in a fine airy square, we were -agreeably surprised to find a remarkably good inn. - -Marbella, though invested with the pomp and circumstance of war, is but -a contemptible fortress. An old Moorish castle, standing in the very -heart of the town, constitutes its chief strength; for, though its -circumvallation is complete and tolerably erect, considering its great -age, yet, from the inconsiderable height of the walls, and the -inefficient flanking fire that protects them, they could offer but -slight resistance to an enemy. - -A detached fort, that formerly covered the place from attack on the sea -side, and flanked the eastern front of the enceinte of the town, has -been razed to the ground, so that ships may now attack it almost with -impunity. - -The town is particularly clean and well inhabited, the fishing portion -of the population being located more conveniently for their occupation -in a large suburb on its eastern side. The fortress encloses several -large churches and religious houses, besides the citadel or Moorish -castle, so that within the walls the space left for streets is but -small; the inhabitants of the town itself cannot therefore be estimated -at more than five thousand, whilst those of the suburb may probably -amount to fifteen hundred. - -The trade of Marbella is but trifling; the fruit and vegetables grown in -its neighbourhood are, it is true, particularly fine, but the proximity -of the precipitous Sierra de Juanal limits cultivation to a very narrow -circuit round the walls of the town; and, on the other hand, the -valuable mines in the vicinity, which formerly secured Marbella a -prosperous trade, have for many years been totally abandoned: so that, -in fact, there is little else than fish to export. - -There is no harbour, but vessels find excellent holding ground and in -deep water, close to the shore; the landing also is good, being on a -fine hard sand, and I found a small pier in progress of construction. - -It seems probable that in remote times numerous commercial towns were -situated along the coast, between Malaca and Calpe, whence a thriving -trade was carried on with the East, for the whole chain of mountains -bordering the Mediterranean abounds in metallic ores, especially along -that part of the coast between Marbella and Estepona; and it is evident -that mining operations on an extensive scale were formerly carried on -here, since the tumuli formed by the earth excavated in searching for -the precious metals are yet to be seen, as well as the bleached -channels by which the water that penetrated into the mines was led down -the sides of the mountains. - -The metals contained in this range of mountains are, principally, -silver, copper, lead, and iron; of the two former I have seen some very -fine specimens. - -The richness and comparative proximity of these mines led the -Phoenicians and Romans, by whom there is no doubt they were worked, to -neglect the copper mines of Cornwall; for, whilst necessity obliged them -to come to England for tin, it is observable that in many places, where, -in working for that metal, they came also upon lodes of copper, they -carried away the tin only; a circumstance that has rendered some of the -recently worked Cornish copper mines singularly profitable, and leads -naturally to the supposition that the ancients procured copper at a less -expense from some other country. - -In the same way that the old Roman mines in England, from our knowledge -of the vast power of steam, and of the means of applying that power to -hydraulical purposes, have been reopened with great advantage, so also -might those of Spain be again worked with a certainty of success. -Capital and security--the two great wants of Spain--are required however -to enable adventurers to embark in the undertaking. - -Marbella is four leagues from Estepona, and ten from Gibraltar; but -though the first four may be reckoned at the usual rate of four miles -each, yet the remaining six cannot be calculated under four and a half -each, making the whole distance to Gibraltar forty-three miles, and from -Malaga to Gibraltar seventy-nine miles.[180] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - A PROVERB NOT TO BE LOST SIGHT OF WHILST TRAVELLING IN SPAIN--ROAD - TO MONDA--SECLUDED VALLEY OF OJEN--- MONDA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF THE ROMAN CITY OF MUNDA--IDEAS OF MR. CARTER - ON THE SUBJECT--REASONS ADDUCED FOR CONCLUDING THAT MODERN MONDA - OCCUPIES THE SITE OF THE ANCIENT CITY--ASSUMED POSITIONS OF THE - CONTENDING ARMIES OF CNEIUS POMPEY AND CÆSAR, IN THE VICINITY OF - THE TOWN--ROAD TO MALAGA--TOWNS OF COIN AND ALHAURIN--BRIDGE OVER - THE GUADALJORCE--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR--NOTABLE INSTANCE OF THE - ABSURDITY OF QUARANTINE REGULATIONS. - - -"_Mas vale paxaro en mano, que buytre volando_"--_Anglicè_, a bird in -the hand is worth more than a vulture flying--is a proverb that cannot -be too strongly impressed upon the minds of travellers in Spain; and, -acting up to the spirit of this wise saw, we did not leave our -comfortable quarters at the _Posada de la Corona_ until after having -made sure of a breakfast. For, deeming even a cup of milk at Marbella -worth more than a herd of goats up the sierra, there appeared yet more -reason to think that no venta on the unfrequented mountain track by -which we purposed returning to Malaga could furnish anything half so -estimable as the _café au lait_ promised overnight, and placed before us -soon after daybreak. - -We commenced ascending the steep side of the _Sierra de Juanal_ -immediately on leaving Marbella, and, in something under an hour, -reached a pass, on the summit of a ridge, whence a lovely view opens to -the north. The little town of Ojen lies far down below, embosomed in a -thicket of walnut, chesnut, and orange trees; whilst all around rise -lofty sierras, clothed, like the valley, with impervious woods, though -with foliage of a darker hue, their forest covering consisting -principally of cork and ilex. Numerous torrents, (whose foaming streams -can only occasionally be seen dashing from rock to rock amidst the dense -foliage) furrow the sides of the impending ridges, directing their -course towards the little village, threatening, seemingly, to overwhelm -it by their united strength; but, wasting their force against the -cragged knoll on which it stands, they collect in one body at its foot, -and, as if exhausted by the struggle, flow thenceforth tranquilly -towards the Mediterranean, meandering through rich vineyards, and under -verdant groves of arbutus, orange, and oleander. - -Excepting by this outlet, along the precipitous edge of which our road -was practised, there seemed to be no possibility of leaving the sylvan -valley, so completely is it hemmed in by wood and mountain. The descent -from the pass occupied nearly as much time as had been employed in -clambering up to it from the sea-coast, but the road is better. - -The situation of the little town, on the summit of a scarped rock, -clustered over with ivy and wild vines, and moistened by the spray of -the torrents that rush down on either side, is most romantic; the place, -however, is miserable in the extreme, containing some two hundred -wretched hovels, mostly mud-built, and huddled together as if for mutual -support. - -An ill-conditioned _pavé_ zigzags up to it, and proceeds onwards along -the edge of a deep ravine towards Monda. The woods, rocks, and water -afford ever-varying and enchanting vistas, but, from the vile state of -the road, it is somewhat dangerous to pay much attention to the beauties -of nature. - -In something more than an hour from Ojen, we reached a pass in the -northern part of the mountain-belt that girts it in, whence we took a -last lingering look at the lovely valley, compared to which the country -now lying before us appeared tame and arid. - -The fall of the mountain on the western side is much more gradual than -towards the Mediterranean, and the road--which does not however improve -in due proportion--descends by an easy slope towards the little river -Seco. The valley, at first, is wide, open, and uncultivated; but, at the -end of about a mile, it contracts to an inconsiderable breadth, and the -steep hills that border it give signs of the husbandman's toils, being -every where planted with vines and olive trees. - -Arriving now at the margin of the _Seco_, the road crosses and recrosses -the rivulet repeatedly, in consequence of the rugged nature of its -banks, and, at length, quitting the pebbly bed of the stream, and -crossing over a lofty mountain ridge that overlooks it to the east, the -stony track brings us to Monda, which is nestled in a deep ravine on the -opposite side of the mountain, and commanded by an old castle situated -on a rocky knoll to the north-west. - -The view from the summit of this mountain is very extensive, embracing -the greater portion of the _Hoya_ de Malaga, the distant sea-bound city, -and yet more remote sierras of Antequera, Alhama, and Granada. The -descent to Monda is extremely bad, though by no means rapid. The -distance of this place from Marbella is stated in the Spanish -Itineraries to be three leagues, but the incessant windings of the road -make it fourteen miles, at least. The houses of Monda are mostly poor, -though some of the streets are wide and good. The population is -estimated at 2,000 souls. - -It is to this day a mooted question amongst Spanish antiquaries whether -Monda, or Ronda _la Vieja_, (as some of them call the ruins of -Acinippo), or any other of several supposed places, be the Roman -_Munda_, where Cneius Scipio gave battle to the Carthaginian generals, -Mago and Asdrubal, B.C. 211, and near whose walls Julius Cæsar concluded -his wonderful career of victory by the defeat of Cneius Pompey the -younger, B.C. 42. - -From this discrepancy of opinion, and the inaccuracy of the Spanish -maps, I am induced to offer the following observations (the result of a -careful examination of the country), touching the site of this once -celebrated spot. And, first, with respect to Ronda and Ronda _la Vieja_, -I may repeat what I have already stated in a former chapter, that -neither the situation of those places, nor the nature of the ground in -their vicinity, agrees in any one respect with the description of Munda -and its battle-field, as given by Hirtius;[181] nor, from discoveries -that have recently been made, does there appear to be any ground left -for doubting that those places occupy the sites of Arunda and Acinippo. - -Of the other positions which have been assigned to _Munda_, that most -insisted upon is a spot "three leagues to the _west_ of the present town -of Monda,"[182] and here Carter, adopting the opinion of Don Diego -Mendoza, confidently places it, stating that bones of men and horses -had, in former days, been dug up there; that the peasants called the -spot _Monda la Vieja_, and averred they sometimes saw squadrons of -apparitions fighting in the air with cries and shouts! - -Such a host of circumstantial and phantasmagorical evidence our -countryman considered irresistible, and concluded, accordingly, that -this spot could be no other than that whereon the two mighty Roman -armies contended for empire. He admits, however, that, even in the days -of his precursor, Don Diego, "scarcely any ruins were to be found, the -_whole_ having by degrees been transplanted to modern Monda and other -places." Why they should have been carried three leagues across some of -the loftiest mountains in the country, to be used merely as building -stones, he does not attempt to explain, but, believing such to be the -case, one wonders it never struck him as being somewhat extraordinary -that these pugnacious ghosts should continue fighting for a town of -which not a stone remains. - -But, leaving Mr. Carter for the present, I will retrace my steps to -modern Monda, where it must be acknowledged some little difficulty is -experienced in fitting the Roman city to the spot allotted to it on the -maps, as well as in placing the contending armies upon the ground in its -neighbourhood, so as to agree with the order in which they were arrayed -on the authority of Hirtius. Still, with certain admissions, which -admissions I do not consider it by any means unreasonable to beg, all -apparent discrepancies may be reconciled and difficulties overcome; and, -on the other hand, unless these points be granted, Ronda, Gaucin, or -Gibraltar agree just as well with the Munda of the Roman historian as -the little town of Monda I am about to describe. - -It will be necessary, however, for the perfect understanding of the -subject,--and, I trust, my endeavour to establish the site of Cæsar's -last battle-field will be considered one of sufficient interest to -warrant a little prolixity,--to take a glance at the country in the -vicinity of Monda, ere proceeding to describe the actual ground whereon, -according to my idea, the contending armies were drawn up; as it is only -from a knowledge of the country, and of the communications that -intersected it, that the reasons can be gathered for such a spot having -been selected for a field of battle. - -The old castle of Monda, under the walls of which we must suppose--for -this is one of the premised admissions--the town to have been clustered, -instead of being, as at present, sunk in a ravine, stands on the eastern -side of a rocky ridge, projected in a northerly direction from the lofty -and wide-spreading mountain-range, that borders the Mediterranean -between Malaga and Estepona. This range is itself a ramification of the -great mountain-chain that encircles the basin of Ronda, from which it -branches off in a southerly direction, and under the names of Sierras of -Tolox, Blanca, Arboto, and Juanal, presents an almost impassable barrier -between the valley of the Rio Verde (which falls into the Mediterranean, -three miles west of Marbella), and the fertile plains bordering the -Guadaljorce. - -This steep and difficult ridge terminates precipitously about Marbella; -but another branch of the range, sweeping round the little town of Ojen, -turns back for some miles to the north, rises in two lofty peaks above -Monda, and then, taking an easterly direction, juts into the -Mediterranean at Torre Molinos. The towns of Coin and Alhaurin are -situated, like Monda, on rocky projections from the north side of this -range, overhanging the vale of Malaga; and the solitary town of Mijas -stands upon its southern acclivity, looking towards the sea. - -The rugged ramification on which Monda is situated stretches north about -two miles from the double-peaked sierra above mentioned; and though -completely overlooked by that mountain, yet, in every other direction, -it commands all the ground in its immediate neighbourhood, and, without -being very elevated, is every where steep, and difficult of access. The -summit of the ridge is indented by various rounded eminences, and, -consequently, is of very unequal breadth, as well as height. The castle -of Monda stands on one of these knolls, but quite on the eastern side of -the hill, the breadth of which, in this place, scarcely exceeds 400 -yards. At its furthest extremity, however, the ridge, which extends -northward, _nearly a mile_, beyond the town, sends out a spur to the -east, following the course of, and falling abruptly to the Rio Seco; and -the breadth of the hill may here be said to be increased to nearly two -miles. - -Between the river Seco and the Rio Grande (a more considerable stream, -which runs nearly parallel to, and about seven miles from the Seco), the -country, though rudely moulded, is by no means lofty; but round the -sources of the latter river, and along its left bank, rise the huge -sierras of Junquera, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, closing the view from -Monda to the north. - -From the description here given it will be apparent, that the -communications across so mountainous a country must not only be few, but -very bad. Such, indeed, is the asperity of the sierras west of Monda, -that no road whatever leads through them; and, to the south, but one -tolerable road presents itself to cross the lateral ridge, bordering the -Mediterranean, between Marbella and Torre Molinos, viz., that by which -we had traversed it. - -Even on the other half circle round Monda, where the country is of a -more practicable nature, only two roads afford the means of access to -that town, viz., one from Guaro, where the different routes from Ronda -(by Junquera), El Burgo, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, unite; the other -from Coin, upon which place, from an equal necessity, those from Alora, -Antequera, and Malaga, are first directed. - -Monda thus becomes the point of concentration of all the roads -proceeding from the inland towns to Marbella; the pass of Ojen, in its -rear, offering the only passage through the mountains to reach that -city. - -The road from this pass, as has already been described, approaches Monda -by the valley watered by the river Seco; which stream, directed in the -early part of its course by the Sierra de Monda on its right, flows -nearly due north for about a mile and a half beyond where the road to -Monda leaves its bank, receiving in its progress several tributary -streams that rise in the mountains on its left. On gaining the northern -extremity of the ridge of Monda, the rivulet winds round to the -eastward, still washing the base of that mountain, but leaving the hilly -country on its left bank, along which a plain thenceforth stretches for -several miles. The stream again, however, becomes entangled in some -broken and intricate country, ere reaching the wide plain of the -Guadaljorce, into which river it finally empties itself. - -The situation of Monda, with reference to the surrounding country, -having now been fully described, it is necessary, ere proceeding to shew -that the ground in its neighbourhood answers perfectly the account given -of it by Hirtius, to offer some remarks on the causes that may be -supposed to have led to a collision between the hostile Roman armies on -such a spot, since the present unimportant position of Monda seems to -render such an event very improbable. - -Cæsar, it would appear, after the fall of Ategua, proceeded to lay siege -to Ventisponte and Carruca--two places, whose positions have baffled the -researches of the most learned antiquaries to determine--his object, -evidently, having been to induce Pompey to come to their relief. His -adversary, however, was neither to be forced nor tempted to depart from -his politic plan of "drawing the war out into length;" but, retiring -into the mountains, compelled Cæsar, whose interest it was, on the other -hand, to bring the contest to as speedy an issue as possible, to follow -him into a more defensible country. - -With this view, leaving the wide plain watered by the Genil and -Guadaljorce on the northern side of the mountains, Pompey, we may -imagine, retired towards the Mediterranean, and stationed himself at -Monda; a post that not only afforded him a formidable defensive -position, but that gave him the means of resuming hostilities at -pleasure, since it commanded the roads from Cartama to Hispalis -(Seville), by way of Ronda, and from Malaca, along the Mediterranean -shore, to Carteía,[183] where his fleet lay; and, should his adversary -not follow him, the situation thus fixed upon was admirably adapted for -carrying the war into the country in arms against him, the two opulent -cities of Cartama and Malaca (which there is every reason to conclude -were attached to the cause of Cæsar), being within a day's march of -Monda. - -Here, therefore, Pompey occupied a strategical point of great -importance; and Cæsar, fully aware of the advantage its possession gave -his opponent, determined to attack him at all risks. - -The hostile armies were separated from each other by a plain five miles -in extent.[184] That of Cæsar was drawn up in this plain, his cavalry -posted on the left; whilst the army of Pompey, whose cavalry was -stationed on _both_ wings, occupied a strong position on a range of -mountains, protected on one side by the town of Munda, "_situated on an -eminence_;" on the other, by the nature of the ground, "_for across this -valley_" (i.e. that divided the two armies), "_ran a rivulet, which -rendered the approach to the mountain extremely difficult, because it -formed a morass on the right_." - -Now although the town of Munda is here described as protecting Pompey's -army on one side, yet from what follows it must be inferred that it was -some distance in the rear of his position, since, not only is it stated -that "_Pompey's army was at length obliged to give ground and retire -towards the town_," but it may be taken for granted that, had either -flank rested upon the town, the cavalry would _not_ have been posted on -"_both wings_." - -Moreover, it is stated that "_Cæsar made no doubt but that the enemy -would descend to the plain and come to battle_," the superiority of -cavalry being greatly on Pompey's side--"_but_," Hirtius proceeds to -say, "_they durst not advance a mile from the town_," and, in spite of -the advantageous opportunity offered them, "_still kept their post on -the mountain in the neighbourhood of the town_." - -It may therefore be fairly concluded, that Pompey's position was on the -edge of a range of hills, some little distance in advance of the town of -Munda, having a stream running in a deep valley along its front, and a -morass on one flank. Now the question is, Can the ground about Monda be -made to agree with these various premises? Certainly not, if, as is -generally assumed, the battle was fought on the eastern side of the -town; for Pompey's position must, in that case, have extended along the -ridge, so as to have the peaked Sierra, above Monda, on its right, and -the river Seco on its left, whilst Monda itself would have been an -advanced post of the line; and so far from there being a plain "_five -miles_" in extent in front, the country to the east of Monda--though for -some way but slightly marked--is, at the distance of _two_ miles, so -abruptly broken as to render the drawing up of a Roman army impossible. - -In addition to these objections it will be obvious that the half of -Pompey's cavalry on the right, would have been posted on a high -mountain, where it could not possibly act, whilst the whole of Cæsar's -(on his left), would have been paralyzed by having to manoeuvre on the -acclivity of a steep mountain and against a fortified town, instead of -being kept in the valley of the river Seco, ready to fall upon the weak -part of the enemy's line as soon as it should be broken. - -What, however, seems to me to be fatal to the supposition that this was -the side of the town on which the battle was fought is, that Cæsar's -army would have occupied the road by which alone the small portion of -Pompey's army, that escaped, could have retired upon Cordoba. - -Against the supposition that the battle took place on the _western_ side -of the ridge on which Monda is situated, the objections, though not so -numerous, are equally insurmountable; since there is nothing like a -plain whereon Cæsar's army could have been drawn up; the valley of the -river Seco being so circumscribed that, for Pompey's army to have -"_advanced a mile from Monda_," it must not only have crossed the -stream, but mounted the rough hills that there border its left bank; -whereas Cæsar's army is stated to have been posted in a plain that -extended five miles from Monda. The half of Pompey's cavalry on the -_left_ would, in this case also, have been uselessly posted on an -eminence. In other respects the supposition is admissible enough, since -Monda would have been in the rear of the left of Pompey's position, but -still a support to the line, and the whole front would have been -"_difficult of approach_," and along the course of a rivulet. - -We will now examine the ground to the north of the town, to which it -strikes me no insuperable objections can be raised. - -We may suppose that Pompey took post with his army fronting Toloz and -Guaro, the only direction in which his enemy could be looked for, and -where the ground is so little broken, as certainly to allow of its being -called _a plain_, as compared with the rugged country that encompasses -it on all sides; and his position would naturally have been taken up -along the edge of the last ramification of the ridge of Monda, which -extends about two miles from west to east along the right bank of the -river Seco. - -The town would then have been half a mile or so _in rear_ of the left -centre of Pompey's position; _a rivulet_, "_rendering the approach of -the mountain difficult_," would have run along its front. His cavalry -would naturally have been disposed on _both flanks_, where, the hills -terminating, it would be most at hand either to act offensively, or for -the security of the position; and the cavalry of Cæsar, on the contrary, -would _all_ have been posted on _his_ left, where the access to Pompey's -position was easiest, and where, in case of his enemy's defeat, its -presence would have produced the most important results. - -We may readily conceive, also, that in times past _a morass_ bordered -the Seco where it first enters the plain, since several mountain streams -there join it, whose previously rapid currents must have experienced a -check on reaching this more level country. The industrious Moslems, -probably, by bringing this fertile plain into cultivation, drained the -morass so that no traces of it are now perceptible, but twenty years -hence there may possibly be another. - -Every condition required, therefore, to make the ground agree with the -description given of it by Hirtius, is here fulfilled; and, occupying -such a position, the army of Pompey seemed likely to obtain the ends -which we cannot but suppose its general had in view. - -The objections of Mr. Carter to modern Monda being the site of the Roman -city are, first, the want of space in its vicinity for two such vast -hosts to be drawn up in battle array; and, secondly, the little distance -of the existing town from the river Sigila and city of Cártama, which, -according to an ancient inscription, referring to the repairs of a road -from Munda to Cártama, he states was twenty miles. - -In consequence of these imaginary discrepancies, he suffered himself to -be persuaded that the spot where the apparitions are fighting "three -leagues to the westward of the modern town," is the site of the Roman -_Munda_. In which case it must have been situated in a _narrow valley_, -bounded on all sides by lofty mountains, and _twenty-eight_ Roman miles, -at least, from the city of Cártama! - -With respect to his first objections, however, it may be observed, that -the _want of space_ can only apply to the army posted on the mountain, -for, on the level country between its base and the village of Guaro, an -army of any amount might be drawn up. And as regards the mountain, as I -have already stated, its north front offers a strong position, nearly -two miles in extent, and one in depth. Now, considering the compact -order in which Roman armies were formed; the number of lines in which -they were in the habit of being drawn up; and making due allowance for -exaggeration[185] in the number of the contending hosts; such a space, I -should say, was more than sufficient for Pompey's army. - -In reply to the second objection urged by Mr. Carter, I may, in the -first place, observe, that the inscription whereon it is grounded-- - - * * * * * - - A MVNDA ET FLVVIO SIGILA - AD CERTIMAM VSQVE XX M.P.P.S. RESTITVIT.[186]-- - -seems to have no reference to the actual distance between Munda and -Cártama, since, by attaching any such meaning to it--coupled as Munda -is with the river Sigila--the inscription, to one acquainted with the -country, becomes quite unintelligible. - -Thus, if translated: "From Munda and the river Sigila, he (i. e. the -Emperor Hadrian) restored the twenty miles of road to Cártama," any one -would naturally conclude that Munda was upon the Sigila, and Cártama at -a distance of twenty miles from it; whereas, whatever may have been the -situation of Munda, Cártama certainly stood upon the very bank of the -river. - -It must, therefore, either have been intended to imply that the Emperor -restored twenty miles of a road which from Munda and the sources,[187] -or upper part of the course of the Sigila, led to Cártama, and various -traces of such a Roman road exist to this day on the road to Ronda by -Junquera; or, that the road from Munda was conducted along part of the -course of the Sigila ere it reached Cártama: and such, from the nature -of the ground, undoubtedly was the case, since Cártama stood at the -eastern foot of a steep mountain, the northern extremity of which must -(in military parlance) have been turned, to reach it from Monda, and the -road, in making this détour, would first reach the river Guadaljorce, or -Sigila. - -In this case it must be admitted that the _twenty miles_ refer to the -actual distance between the two towns, and this tends only more firmly -to establish modern Monda on the site of the Roman town, since the -distance from thence to Cártama, measured with _a pair of compasses_ on -a _correct_ map,[188] is fourteen English miles, which are equal to -fifteen Roman of seventy-five to a degree, or seventeen of eighty-three -and one third to a degree; and considering the hilly nature of the -country which the road must unavoidably have traversed, the distance -would have been fully increased to twenty miles, either by the ascents -and descents if carried in a straight line from place to place, or by -describing a very circuitous course if taken along the valley of the Rio -Seco. - -Carter further remarked upon the foregoing inscription that "it seems to -place" Munda to the _west_ of the river Sigila, which ran _between_ that -town and Cártama; but this, he said, does not agree with the situation -of modern Monda, which is on the same side the river as Cártama. - -I suppose for _west_ he meant to say _east_, but, in either case, his -assumed site for Munda, "three leagues to the west of the present town," -is open to this very same objection, and to the yet graver one, of -being--even allowing that he meant English leagues--_twenty-three -English miles_ in a _direct_ line from the town of Cártama, and in a -contracted and secluded valley, to the possession of which, no military -importance could possibly have been attached. - -On the whole, therefore, I see no reason to doubt what, for so many -years was looked upon as certain, viz., that the modern town of Monda is -on the site of the ancient city. I must nevertheless own that in -following strictly the text of Hirtius, an objection presents itself to -this spot with reference to the relative position of Ursao; that is, if -Osuna be Ursao; since, in allusion to Pompey's resolve to receive battle -at Munda, he says that Ursao "served as a sure resource _behind_ -him."[189] - -This objection holds equally good with the position Carter assigns to -Munda; but that there is some error respecting Ursao is evident, for, if -Osuna be Ursao, then Hirtius described it most incorrectly by saying it -was exceedingly strong by nature, and eight miles distant from any -rivulet.[190] And, on the other hand, it is clear that Ursao did _not_ -serve as a _sure_ resource to Pompey, since no part of his defeated army -found refuge there. - -We must read this passage, therefore, as implying rather that Pompey -_calculated_ on Orsao as a place of refuge, but that, by the able -manoeuvres of his adversary, he was cut off from it. Now a town -placed high up in the mountains like Alozaina, or Junquera, and like -them distant from any stream but that which rises within their walls, -answers the description of Orsao, much better than Osuna;[191] and, -supposing one of these, or any other town in the vicinity, similarly -situated, to have been Orsao, Pompey might have flattered himself that -he could fall back upon it in the event of being defeated at Monda. -Cæsar, however, by moving along the valley of the Seco, and, taking post -in the plain to the north of Pompey's position, effectually deprived him -of this resource. - -The modern town of Monda contains numerous fragments of monuments, -inscriptions, &c., which, though none of them actually prove it to be on -the site of the ancient place of the same name, satisfactorily shew that -it stands near some old Roman town, and that, therefore, to call it -_new_ Monda, in contradistinction to _Monda la vieja_, is absurd. - -The road to Coin traverses a succession of tongues, which, protruding -from the side of the steep Sierra de Monda on the right, fall gradually -towards the Rio Seco, which flows about a mile off on the left. For the -first three miles the undulations are very gentle, and the face of the -country is covered with corn, but, on arriving at the Peyrela, a rapid -stream that rushes down from the mountains in a deep rocky gully, the -ground becomes much more broken, and the hills on both sides are thickly -wooded. The road, nevertheless, continues very good, and in about two -miles more reaches Coin. - -The approach to this town is very beautiful. It is situated some way up -the northern acclivity of a high wooded hill, and commands a splendid -view of the valley of the Guadaljorce. - -Coin is supposed to be of Moorish origin, and, from the amenity of its -situation, abundance of crystal springs and fruitfulness of its -orchards, was, no doubt, a favourite place of retreat with the turbaned -conquerors of Spain. Nor are its merits altogether lost upon the present -less contemplative race of inhabitants, for they flee to its pure -atmosphere whenever any endemic disease frightens them from the close -and crowded streets of filthy Malaga. - -During the last few years that the divided Moslems yet endeavoured to -struggle against the fate that too clearly awaited them, the fields of -Coin were doomed to repeated devastations, though the city itself still -set the Christian hosts at defiance; but at length the artillery of -Ferdinand and Isabella reduced it to submission, A.D. 1485. - -The population of Coin is estimated by the Spanish authorities at 9000 -souls, but I should say it is considerably less. The houses are good, -streets well paved, and the place altogether is clean and wholesome. - -The posada, except in outward appearance, is not in keeping with the -town. It is a large white-washed building, with great pretensions and -small comfort. We left it at daybreak without the least regret, carrying -our breakfast with us to enjoy _al fresco_. - -At the foot of the hill two roads to Malaga offer themselves, one by way -of Cártama (distant ten miles), which turns the Sierra Gibalgalía to the -north, the other by Alhaurin, which crosses the neck of land connecting -that mountain with the more lofty sierras to the south. The distance is -pretty nearly the same by both, and is reckoned five leagues, but the -_leguas_ are any thing but _regulares_, and may be taken at an average -of four miles and a half each. The first named is a carriage road, and -the country flat nearly all the way; we therefore chose the latter, as -likely to be more picturesque. - -In about an hour from Coin, we reached a clear stream, which, confined -in a deep gulley, singularly scooped out of the solid rock, winds round -at the back of Alhaurin, and tumbles over a precipice on the side of the -impending mountain. The crystal clearness of the water and beauty of -the spot, tempted us to halt and spread the contents of our alforjas on -the green bank of the rivulet, though the white houses of Alhaurin, -situated immediately above, peeped out from amidst trelissed vines and -perfumed orange groves, seeming to beckon us on. But appearances are -proverbially deceitful all over the world, and more especially in -Spanish towns, as we had recently experienced at Coin. - -Our repast finished, we remounted our horses, and ascended the steep -acclivity, on the lap of which the town stands. The environs are -beautifully wooded, and the place contains many tasteful houses and -gardens, wide, clean, and well-paved streets, abundance of refreshing -fountains, and groves of orange and other fruit trees, and, in fact, is -a most delightful place of abode. The view from it is yet finer than -from Coin, embracing, besides the fine chain of wooded sierras above -Alozaina and Casarabonela, the lower portion of the vale of Malaga, and -the splendid mountains that stretch into the Mediterranean beyond that -city. Nevertheless, in spite of these advantages, the scared -_Malagueños_ consider Coin a more secure retreat from the dreaded yellow -fever than Alhaurin, perhaps because from the former even the view of -their abandoned city is intercepted. - -Alhaurin contains, probably, 5000 inhabitants. The road from thence to -Malaga is _carriageable_ throughout. It winds along the side of the -mountain, continuing nearly on a dead level from the town to the summit -of the pass that connects the Sierra Gibalgalía with the mountains of -Mijas; thence it descends gradually, by a long and rather confined -ravine, into the vale of Malaga. - -Arrived in the plain, it leaves the little village of Alhaurinejo about -half a mile off on the right, and at thirteen miles from Alhaurin -reaches a bridge over the Guadaljorce. This bridge, commenced on a -magnificent scale by one of the bishops of Malaga, was to have been -built entirely of stone; but, before the work was half completed, either -the worthy dignitary of the church came to the last of his days, or to -the bottom of his purse, and it is left to be completed, "_con el -tiempo_"--a very celebrated Spanish bridge-maker. - -Forty-four solid stone piers remain, however, to bear witness to the -good and liberal intentions of the bishop; and the weight of a rotten -wooden platform, which has since been laid down, to afford a passage -across the stream when swollen by the winter torrents, for at most other -times it is fordable. - -A road to the Retiro and Churriana continues down the right bank of the -river; but that to Malaga crosses the bridge, and on gaining the left -bank of the river is joined by the roads from Casarabonda and Cártama. -From hence to Malaga is about five miles. - -On arriving at Malaga we found the dread of cholera had attained such a -height during our short absence, that the _Xebeque_, for Ceuta, had -sailed, whilst clean bills of health were yet issued. We also thought it -advisable to save our passports from being tainted, and, without further -loss of time, departed for Gibraltar by land. Our haste, however, booted -us but little; for, amongst the absurdities of quarantine be it -recorded, on reaching the British fortress, on the morning of the third -day from Malaga, admittance was refused, until we had undergone a three -days' purification at San Roque. Thither we repaired, therefore; and -there we remained during the prescribed period, shaking hands daily with -our friends from the garrison, until the dreaded _virus_ was supposed to -have parted with all its infectious properties. Our _decorated_ -attendant had left us on reaching Malaga, promising to take the earliest -opportunity of acquainting us with the result of an ordeal, to which the -little blind God, in one of his most capricious moods, had been pleased -to subject two of his votaries. - -The circumstances attending this trial of _true love_, will be found -related in the following chapter, which contains also a sketch of the -previous history of the hero of the tale, the knight of San Fernando. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -THE KNIGHT OF SAN FERNANDO. - - -_Don Fernando Septimo, por la gracia de Dios, rey de Castilla, de Leon, -de Aragon, de las dos Sicilias, de Jerusalem, de Navarra, de Granada, de -Toledo, de Valencia, de Galicia, de Mallorca, de Sevilla, de Cerdeña, de -Cordoba, de Corcega, de Murcia, de Jaen, de los Algarbes, de Algeciras, -de Gibraltar, de las islas de Canaria, de las Indias Orientales y -Occidentales, islas y tierra ferme del Mar Oceano; archiduque de -Austria; duque de Borgoña, de Brabante y de Milan; conde de Absparg, -Flandes, Tirol y Barcelona; señor de Viscaya y de Molina,[192] &c._ - -Such was the heading of the document which conferred the honour of -knighthood (silver cross of the first class of the royal and military -order of St. Ferdinand), upon _Don_ Antonio Condé, a soldier of the -light company (cazadores) of the Queen's, or second regiment of the -line, in acknowledgment of his distinguished services against the -_revolutionarios_ of the _isla de Leon_, who surrendered at Bejer on the -8th March, 1831. - -The bearer of this _certificate_ of gallant conduct--for the -gratification that its possession afforded his vanity was the only sense -in which it could be considered a _reward_--was in person rather below -the usual stature of the Andalusian peasantry; but his square shoulders, -open chest, and muscular limbs, bespoke him to be possessed of more than -their wonted strength and activity. - -In other respects too he differed somewhat from his countrymen, his hair -being light, even lighter than what they call _castaños_, or chestnut, -his chin beardless, and his eyes hazel. His manners were those of a -frank young soldier, rather, perhaps, of the French school, with a dash -of the _beau garçon_ about him, but, on the whole, very prepossessing. -In his carriage to us, though rather inquisitive, he was at all times -respectful; but towards his fellow countrymen, not of _the cloth_, a -certain hauteur was observable in his deportment, which clearly showed -that he prided himself on the "_Don_." - -The document, encased with the brevet of knighthood, of which mention -has before been made, briefly, but in very honourable terms, described -the gallant conduct of the young soldier, and forms the groundwork of -the following _memoir_; a circumstance I feel called upon to mention, -lest my hero should be wrongfully accused of vain-gloriously boasting of -his achievements; and this also will explain why his story is not, -throughout, told in the first person. - -The secluded little village of Guarda, which has been noticed in the -course of my peregrinations, as lying to the right of the high road from -Jaen to Granada (about five miles from the former city), was the -birth-place of Antonio Condé. His parents, though in a humble station of -life, were of _sangre limpio_;[193] and never having heard of Malthus, -had married early, and most unphilosophically added a family of seven -human beings to the already overstocked population of this -wisdom-getting world. - -Five of these unfortunate mortals were daughters, and our hero was the -younger of the two masculine lumps of animated clay. His brother, who -was many years his senior, had joined the army at an early age, and at -the conclusion of the war had proceeded with his regiment to the -Habana, where he still remained; their parents, therefore, now declining -in years, were anxious to keep their remaining son at home, to assist in -supporting the family. Such, however, was not to be the case, for, on -the _quintos_ being called out in 1830, it fell to Antonio's lot to be -one of the quota furnished by the district that included his native -village. - -To purchase a substitute was out of the question--the price was quite -beyond his parents' means; and though his brother had, at various times, -transmitted money home, which, with praiseworthy foresight, had been -hoarded up to make some little provision for his sisters, but was now -urgently offered to buy him off, yet Antonio would not listen to its -being so applied. To confess the truth, indeed, he secretly rejoiced at -his lot, having always wished to be a soldier, though he could never -bring himself voluntarily to quit his aged parents. Now, he maintained, -there was no alternative; and accordingly, with the brilliant prospect -of making a fortune, which the military life opened to him, he marched -from his native village, and joined the Queen's regiment, then quartered -at Seville, to the cazador company of which he was shortly afterwards -posted. - -Antonio's zeal, and assiduous attention to his duties, as well as his -general good conduct and intelligence, made him a great favourite with -his officers; whilst his youth, good humour, and gay disposition, -endeared him equally to his comrades, in whose amusements he generally -took the lead. In fact, he soon became the pattern man of the pattern -company, and attained the rank of corporal. - -Early in the month of March, 1831, the Queen's regiment received orders -to proceed by forced marches to Cadiz, where the _soi-disant_ -"liberals," having again raised the standard of revolt, commenced the -work of regeneration by murdering the governor of the city in the -streets at noon day. The cold-blooded, calculating miscreants, who -committed this act, excused themselves for the premeditated murder of a -man _universally_ beloved and respected, by saying it was necessary for -the success of their plans to commence with a blow that should strike -terror into the hearts of their opponents. They killed, therefore, the -most virtuous man they could select, to show that no one would be spared -who thenceforth ventured to entertain a doubt, that the constitution -they upheld was the _beau idéal_ of liberal government; and, I regret to -say, Englishmen were found who applauded this atrocious doctrine, and -considered the subsequent punishment inflicted on Torrijos, and the -other abettors and instigators of this barbarity, as an act of -unprecedented cruelty on the part of the "tyrant Ferdinand" and his -"_servile_" ministers. - -Antonio's regiment proceeded to the scene of revolt by way of Utrera and -Xeres, and on reaching Puerto Santa Maria received orders to continue -its march round the head of the bay of Cadiz, and occupy, without delay, -the Puente Zuazo, with the view of confining the rebels to the isla de -Leon, their attempt to gain possession of Cadiz having failed, through -the loyalty and firmness of the troops composing its garrison. - -The rebels, however, effected their escape, ere the Queen's regiment -reached its destined position, and had marched to Chiclana, in the hope -of being there joined by another band of "_facciosos_," under an -ex-officer, named Torrijos; which, long collected in the bay, and -protected by the guns of Gibraltar, was to have effected a landing on -the coast to the westward of Tarifa, and marched thence to support the -ruffians of the isla. - -The royal troops were instantly sent in pursuit of the rebels, who, -abandoning Chiclana, fell back successively upon Conil and Vejer. The -strength of the position of this latter town induced them to make a -stand, and await the momentarily expected reinforcement under Torrijos; -and the King's troops having assembled in considerable force at the foot -of the mountain, determined on attempting to dislodge them from the -formidable post, ere they received this accession of strength; a sharp -conflict was the consequence, which terminated in the royalists being -repulsed with severe loss. - -Antonio, who was well acquainted with the ground, now respectfully -hinted to the captain of his company, that the retreat of the rebels -might be effectually cut off by taking possession of the bridge over the -Barbate, which--all the boats on the river having been destroyed--alone -offered the rebels the means of reaching Tarifa, or Torrijos that of -coming to the assistance of the blockaded town. - -The captain communicated our hero's plans to the commander of the -expedition, who immediately adopted it, wisely abstaining from wasting -further blood to obtain a result by force, which starvation, sooner or -later, would be sure to bring about. - -In pursuance, therefore, of Antonio's project, the Queen's regiment -received orders to take possession of the bridge, and the _cazador_ -company was pushed on with all speed, to facilitate the execution of -this rather difficult operation. - -The bridge, as I have described in a former chapter, is situated -immediately under the lofty precipitous cliff whereon the town of Vejer -is perched, and the road to it is conducted, for nearly half a mile, -along a narrow strip of level ground, between the bank of the Barbate -and the foot of the precipice. - -In their advance, therefore, the _cazadores_ were exposed to a most -destructive shower of bullets, stones, &c. from above, and, of the whole -company, only Corporal Condé, and seven of his comrades, made good their -way, and threw themselves into the venta; which stands on the right bank -of the stream, close to the bridge. They instantly opened a fire from -the windows of the inn upon the rebels in the town overhead, who, at -first, returned it with interest; but after some time Antonio was -beginning to flatter himself, from the slackening of their fusillade, -that he was making their post too hot for them, when, looking round, he -perceived the whole force of the _facciosos_ descending from the town in -one long column, by the road which winds down to the bridge, round the -eastern face of the mountain, their intention evidently being to force a -passage _à todo precio_.[194] - -Antonio's comrades were daunted; they had no officer with them; there -was no appearance of support being at hand; and the odds against them -were fearful. Prudence suggested, therefore, that they should shut -themselves up in the venta, and let the enemy pass. - -Our hero, however, saw how much depended on the decision of that moment. -If the rebels succeeded in crossing the bridge, nothing could prevent -their forming a junction with the band of Torrijos, and in that case the -country might, for many months, be subjected to their outrages and -rapine, and Gibraltar would afford them a sure retreat; he determined, -therefore, to make an effort to intimidate them, and knowing the weight -his example would have upon his comrades, rushed out of the venta, -calling upon them to follow; and taking post behind some old walls, that -formed, as it were, a kind of _tête de pont_, opened a brisk fire upon -the advancing column of the enemy. - -The boldness of the manoeuvre intimidated the rebels, who, thinking -that this handful of men must be supported by a considerable force, -hesitated, halted for further orders, and, finally, threw out a line of -skirmishers to cover their movements, between whom and Antonio's party a -sharp fire was kept up for several minutes. - -In this skirmish one of Antonio's companions was killed, another fell -badly wounded by his side, and he himself received a wound in his head, -which, but that the ball had previously passed through the top of his -chako, would, probably, have been fatal. - -The rebels, discovering at length that the small force opposed to them -was altogether without support, again formed in column of attack to -force the bridge. The word "forward" was given, and Antonio feared that -his devotion would prove of no avail, when, at the critical moment, the -remainder of his company advanced from behind the venta at the _pas de -charge_, rending the air with loud cries of "_Viva el Rey_," and opening -a fire which took the enemy in flank. - -The rebels saw that the golden opportunity had been missed, and, seized -with a panic, retired hastily to their stronghold, closely pressed by -the _cazadores_, who hoped to enter the town pêle mêle with them. - -The commander of the king's troops, who had galloped to the spot where -he heard firing, determined, however, to adhere to the plan of reducing -the rebels to starvation; which now, by Antonio's gallantry, he was -certain of eventually effecting; and ordered, therefore, the recall to -be sounded as soon as he saw the enemy had regained the town. -Unfortunately for our hero, who, attended by a single comrade, was at -the extreme left of the extended line of skirmishers, and had taken -advantage of one of the deep gullies that furrow the side of the -mountain to advance unobserved on the enemy; he neither heard the signal -to retire, nor saw his companions fall back; continuing, therefore, to -advance, it was only on gaining the head of the ravine that he suddenly -became aware of the extreme peril of their situation, and that a quick -retreat alone could save them. It was, however, too late; his -comrade--his bosom friend, Gaspar Herrera--fell, apparently dead, a -dozen paces from him, and he, himself, in the act of raising up his -brave companion, was brought to the ground by a ball, which splintered -his ankle-bone. He managed, with great difficulty, to crawl to some -palmeta bushes, having first sheltered the body of his friend behind the -stem of a stunted olive tree, which would not afford cover for both; -and, lying flat on the ground, waited for some time in the hope that his -company had merely moved round to the left to gain a more accessible -part of the mountain, and would speedily renew the attack. - -At length, his patience becoming exhausted, he thought it would be well -to let his comrades know where he was, and once more levelling his -musket, resumed the offensive by attacking a pig, which, unconscious of -danger, came grunting with carniverous purpose towards that part of the -gory field where the body of his friend Gaspar lay extended. This drew a -heavy fire upon Antonio, but, as he was much below the rebels, who had -all retired into the town, and was tolerably well sheltered by the -friendly palmetas, he escaped further damage. - -In the meanwhile, Antonio and Gaspar had had been reported as killed to -the captain of the _cazadores_, who, whilst deploring with the other -officers the loss of the two most promising young men of his company, -heard the renewed firing in the direction of the late skirmish. -"_Corajo!_" he exclaimed, "that must be Condé and Herrera still at it." -"No, Señor," replied the serjeant, "they were both seen to fall as we -retreated from the hill; that firing must be an attack upon our friends -posted on the other side of the town; the rebels are probably attempting -to force a passage in that direction." "Well then, I cannot do wrong in -advancing," said the captain, "so let us on. Nevertheless, I still think -it is the fire of Condé and his comrade, and I know, my brave fellows," -he continued, addressing his men, "I know that if it be possible to -bring them off, you will do it." - -They advanced, accordingly, in the direction of the firing, and, as the -captain had conjectured, there they found Condé continuing the combat _à -l'outrance_, extended full length upon the ground under cover of the -palmeta bushes, with his head and ankle bandaged, and his ammunition -nearly exhausted. They fortunately succeeded in bearing him off without -sustaining any loss, though Condé insisted on their first removing the -seemingly lifeless body of his friend Gaspar, which he pointed out to -them. - -The detachment at the venta had now been reinforced by some cavalry and -artillery, and the remainder of the Queen's regiment, whilst the rest -of the Royalist force took post on the opposite side of the town, in a -position that covered the roads to Chiclana, Medina, Sidonia, and Alcalà -de los Gazules, thereby depriving the beleaguered rebels of all chance -of escape. - -Towards dusk that same evening, one of Torrijos's troopers was brought -in a prisoner. Unconscious of the state of affairs, he had mistaken a -cavalry piquet of the king's troops for the advanced guard of the -_facciosos_, and had not even discovered his error in time to destroy -the despatches of which he was the bearer. By these it was learnt that -Torrijos, apprized of the failure on Cadiz and subsequent escape of the -rebel-band from the Isla de Leon, had not budged from the spot where he -had effected his landing; but he now sent to acquaint his coadjutors -that he had collected a sufficiency of boats to take them all off, and -that the bearer would be their guide to the place of embarkation. - -This information was forwarded to the rebels at Vejer, who, not giving -credit to it, continued to hold out until the third day, when their -provisions being exhausted and no Torrijos appearing, they agreed to -capitulate, and were marched prisoners to the Isla, where, but a few -days before, "_Quantam est in rebus inane!_" they had styled themselves -the liberators of Spain. - -The queen's regiment was now marched in all haste towards Tarifa, in the -hope of surprising and capturing Torrijos and his band, ere the news of -what had passed at Vejer could reach him, but he had taken the alarm at -the prolonged absence of his messenger, and, re-embarking his doughty -heroes, regained the anchorage of Gibraltar without having fired a shot -to assist their friends. The regiment, therefore, proceeded to -Algeciras, and from thence marched to San Roque, where it remained -stationary for several months. - -Here Antonio rejoined it, accompanied by his friend Herrera, who, thanks -to the timely surgical aid his comrade had been the means of procuring -him, yet lived to evince his gratitude to his preserver. Here, also, our -hero received the distinction which his gallant conduct had so well -earned, as well as the grant of a--to-this-day-unpaid--pension of a real -per diem. Promotion, too, was offered, but he chose rather to wait for a -vacancy in his own regiment than to receive immediate rank in any other. - -Our hero's military career was shortly, however, doomed to be brought to -a close. He had resumed his duty but a few days, when an order arrived -for the queen's regiment to proceed to Seville. The wound in Antonio's -ankle, though apparently quite healed, had been suffered to close over -the bullet that had inflicted it, and the first day's march produced -inflammation of so dangerous a character as to threaten, not only the -loss of his shattered limb, but even of life itself. - -In this deplorable state Antonio was left behind at Ximena, where, -fortunately, an aunt of Gaspar resided. The good Dame Felipa required -only to hear the young soldier's name--his noble act of friendship -having long made it familiar to her ear--to receive him as her son. -"Never can I forget her kindness," said Antonio; "my own mother could -not have tended me with more unremitted attention, and--under the -Almighty--I feel that my recovery is entirely their work." Here an -"_Ay!_" drawn seemingly from the innermost recess of his heart, escaped -from the young soldier's lips, which, appearing quite out of keeping -with the terms in which he spoke of Dame Felipa's _maternal_ solicitude, -induced me, after a moment's pause, to ask, "But who are _they_, -Antonio?" - -"The aunt and sister of Gaspar," he replied, with some little confusion. - -"And you find the wounds of Cupid more incurable than those of Bellona?" -said I, jestingly--"_Vamos_, Don Antonio! As Sancho says, '_Gusto mucho -destas cosas de amores_,'[195] so let us have the sequel of your story -by all means." - -"I shall not be very long in relating it," continued our hero. "For -three months I remained the guest of Doña Felipa. A fever, produced by -my intense sufferings, rendered me for many days quite insensible to the -extraordinary kindness of which I was the object; at length it was -subdued, leaving me, however, so reduced, that for weeks I could not -quit my couch. Indeed, the most perfect repose was ordered on account of -my wound, the cure of which was rendered far more tedious and -troublesome from former mismanagement. During this long period, the -sister of my friend Gaspar was my constant attendant. She read to me, -sang to me, or touched the guitar to break--what she imagined must -be--the wearisome monotony of my confinement. I have even, when -consciousness first returned, on the abatement of the fever, heard her, -thinking I was sleeping, _pray_ for the recovery of her brother's -preserver. - -"It was impossible to be thus the object of Manuela's tender solicitude, -without being impressed with the most ardent love and admiration for one -so pure, so engaging, and so beauteous! Had she indeed been less lovely -and captivating, had she even been absolutely plain, still her assiduous -and disinterested attention could not but have called forth my warmest -gratitude and regard; but I trust you will one day see Manuela, and -then be able to judge if I could resist becoming the captive of such -_enganchamientos_[196] as she possesses. - -"Vainly I endeavoured to stifle the rising passion at its birth. Alas! -the greater my efforts were to eradicate it, the deeper it took root in -my heart. I hoped, nevertheless, to have sufficient self-control to -conceal my passion from the eyes of all, even of her who had called it -into existence, for gratitude and honour equally forbade my endeavouring -to engage the affections of one whose family, placed in a walk of life -far above mine--that is in point of _wealth_, added the K. S. F. -somewhat proudly--I had little right to hope, would consider a poor -soldier of fortune a suitable match for the daughter of the rich Don -Fadrique Herrara. Nor did I know, indeed, how Manuela herself would -receive my addresses, for I scarcely ventured to attribute the soft -glances of her love-inspiring eyes to any other feeling than that of -compassion for the sufferings of her brother's friend. - -"The day of separation came, however, and the veil which had so long -concealed our mutual feelings was gently and unpremeditatedly drawn -aside. Manuela's father and her brother Gaspar came to Ximena to pass a -few days with Doña Felipa, and finding that, though still a prisoner to -my room, I was now declared to be out of all danger, Don Fadrique -announced his intention of taking his daughter home with him--her visit -having already been prolonged far beyond the time originally fixed, in -consequence of my illness, and the fatigue which, unassisted, the -attendance upon me would have imposed on her aunt. - -"When the dreaded hour of departure arrived, my lovely nurse came to the -side of my couch, to bid her last farewell. A tear stood in her bright -eye; the silvery tones of her voice faltered; her hand trembled as she -placed it in mine, and a blush suffused her cheeks as I pressed it to my -lips. But that soft hand was not withdrawn until her own lips had -confessed her love, and had sealed the unsolicited promise, never to -bestow that hand upon another! - -"The difficulty now was to make known our mutual attachment to her -father, who I dreaded would think but ill of me, for the return thus -made for all the kindness of his family. My pride pinched me, also, lest -allusion should be made to my poverty, for, though poor, the blood of -the Condé's is pure as any in the Serranía. - -"I had but little time for consideration, for Don Fadrique was about to -mount his horse, and I thought the best channel of communication would -be my friend Gaspar. He listened attentively to my tale, which was not -told without much embarrassment, and then, to my confusion, burst into -a loud laugh. - -"'Pretty _news_, truly, _amigo_ Antonio,' he at length exclaimed. '_My_ -eyes, however, have not been so exclusively occupied with one object for -this week past--like your's and my sister's--as to render the -communication of this wonderful secret at all necessary. But be of good -cheer; I have seen how the matter stood, and, on the part of my sister, -encouraged it; and I hope to be able to overcome all difficulties, so -leave the affair in my hands:--on our way homewards I will talk the -matter over with my father, and you shall hear the result shortly.' - -"Nor did he disappoint me. In a few days a letter came from Gaspar: the -result of his interference exceeded my expectations: Don Fadrique had -received his communication very calmly, and told him that before -returning any definite answer, he should take time to fathom Manuela's -feelings. - -"Not long after this, I received a letter, of a less satisfactory kind, -however, from Don Fadrique himself. It simply stated that he could not -at present give his consent to his daughter's accepting me; that he had -no objections to urge on the score of my rank in life, or the way in -which I had acted in the matter, but that his daughter's expectations -entitled him to look for a wealthier son-in-law, and that, in fact, it -had long been a favorite plan of his, to unite her to the son of an old -and intimate friend, when they should be of a proper age. - -"Nevertheless--his letter concluded--provided I would abstain from -seeing, writing to, or holding _in any way_ communication with his -daughter for the space of two years, he would, at the expiration of that -period, consent to our union, should we both continue to wish it. - -"This chilling letter was accompanied by a hastily written billet from -Manuela. It was as follows:--'I know my father's conditions--accept -them, and have full confidence in the constancy of your Manuela.' - -"I accordingly wrote to Don Fadrique, subscribing to the terms he -proposed, and, from that day to this, have neither seen nor communicated -with either Manuela or any member of her family." - -"But have you not heard from time to time of the welfare of your -Manuela?" I asked; "are you sure she is yet unmarried?" For it struck me -that the young son of "an old and intimate friend" was a dangerous -person to have paying court to one's mistress during a two years' -absence; especially in Spain, where _love matches_ are rather scouted. A -story that one of Manuela's countrywomen related to me of herself, -recurring to me at the same time. - -This lady had, early in life, formed an attachment to a young officer, -whom poverty alone prevented her marrying. His regiment was ordered to -Ceuta, and she remained at Malaga, consoling herself with the hope that -brighter days would dawn upon them. Her friends laughed at the idea of -such interminable constancy, especially as a most advantageous _parti_ -presented itself for her acceptance. The proposer--it is true--was -neither so handsome nor so youthful as the exile, but then he was also -an officer, and "_in very good circumstances_." She could not forget her -first love, however--indeed, she _never_ could--and long turned a deaf -ear to the tender whisperings of her new admirer; but, at length, her -relations became urgent, as well as her lover; the mail boat from Ceuta -gradually came to be looked for with less impatience; and, "_por fin_," -she observed, "_como era Capitan por Capitan (!!)_,[197] I had no great -objections to urge, and we were married!" - -She confessed to me, however, that this exchange was not effected -"_without paying the difference_," as the treatment she experienced from -her rich husband, caused her ever after to regret having given up her -poor lover. - -But to return to Antonio--"I have had but few opportunities of hearing -from Manuela," he replied, "for my native village is removed from any -high road, and the close attendance required by my aged parents--my -wound having incapacitated me from further military service--has been -such, that I seldom could get as far as Jaen to make enquiries amongst -the _contrabandistas_ and others who visit the neighbourhood, of her -place of residence; but about a month since I met an _arriero_ of Arcos, -who knew Don Fadrique well, and from him I learnt that Manuela is still -unmarried, has lost all her beauty, is wasted to a shadow; and said to -be suffering from some disease that baffles the skill of the most -eminent physicians of the place. - -"This intelligence has made me the more anxious to see her, and claim -her promised hand, for no change in her personal appearance--even if the -account be true--can alter the sentiments I entertain for her; but, at -the same time, it has placed a weight upon my spirits which in vain I -endeavour to throw off. - -"The morning it was my good fortune to fall in with you, Caballeros, I -had set out from my home to proceed to Ximena, whither I understand -Manuela has been removed for change of air. For the term of my -probation, though not yet expired, is fast drawing to a close, and -having some business to transact with the military authorities at -Granada and Malaga respecting my pension (of which not a _maravedi_ has -ever been paid), I have timed my movements so as to reach Ximena by the -day on which I may again present myself to Manuela, and receive, I -trust, the reward of my constancy." - -Antonio's narrative was here brought to a conclusion, but ere he left -us, I exacted the promise mentioned in the preceding chapter, that he -would acquaint us with the result of Don Fadrique's essay in -experimental philosophy. Circumstances, however, occurred to prevent our -meeting him at the place of appointment, and I had almost given up the -hope of hearing more of Antonio and his love story, when, to my -surprise, he one morning presented himself at my breakfast table at San -Roque. - -I saw, at the first glance, that the course of true love had not run -smooth--he was pale and hagged--flurried, yet dispirited. "My good -Antonio," said I, unwilling to give utterance to a doubt of his fair -one's constancy, "I fear Don Fadrique has not proved to be a man of his -word." - -"_Perdon usted_," he replied--"he has been faithful to his word"--worse -and worse, thought I--"And Manuela not less constant in her affection," -he continued; guessing at once the suspicion that flitted across my -mind--"Alas! I could even wish it were not so, if all otherwise were -well; but fate has ordered differently. A calamity has befallen Manuela; -compared to which, death would be a mercy. She is in a state that is -heart-rending to behold. Her sufferings are almost beyond the power of -bearing. Oh, Caballero! it is fearful--it is awful to see her. She has -the best advice that money can procure, but nothing can be done to give -us a hope of her recovery." - -"Mad?" I exclaimed, with a shudder--"Oh, cursed love of riches...." - -"_Nada, nada_,"[198] interrupted Antonio, "she is as sensible as ever. -Alas! I could even bear to see her insane, for then I might hope that -time would effect a change." - -"Is it _Etica_?" I asked, knowing that the Spaniards consider -consumption both incurable and highly infectious. - -A mournful shake of the head was his reply. - -"What then, my good Antonio, _is_ the nature of her malady?" - -"_Ojala_[199] that it could be called a malady, Don Carlos," ejaculated -the silver cross of San Fernando; "it might not then be beyond the reach -of the physician's art. But _Dios de mi vida!_ there is no hope for her, -unless a miracle can be wrought. It is to have a consultation on that -point, I am come to San Roque." - -"What," said I, my patience thoroughly exhausted, "has she embraced -Mohammedanism?" - -"Not far from it, Don Carlos--she is possessed of a devil!" - -"Friend Antonio," said I, "congratulate yourself;--such discoveries are -seldom made _before_ marriage. Let me, however, persuade you, instead of -consulting with priests, to allow an heretical English doctor to meet -this devil face to face; his simple nostrums may perchance be found more -efficacious than the exorcisms of the most pious divines. But explain to -me the signs and symptoms of the presence of this imp of darkness; and -pardon my making light of so serious an affair, for, rest assured, the -evil one is not now permitted to torment the human frame with bodily -anguish; his toils are spread for catching _souls_; and worldly -pleasures, not personal sufferings, are the means he employs to effect -his purpose." - -Antonio then entered into a detailed account of his betrothed's ailment, -as well as of the mode of treatment that had been adopted; but, -ignorant, superstitious, and bigoted, as I knew the campestral Spanish -_faculty_ to be, I had yet to learn how far they could practise on the -credulity of their infatuated _patients_. - -Manuela, it appeared, had, one day during the preceding Lent, been so -imprudent as to taste some chicken broth that had been prepared for her -sick father; and it was supposed, that the devil, assuming the -appearance of the egg of some insect, had gained admission to her throat -and settled in her breast, where he had ever since been nurtured and -was gradually "_comiendo su vida_!"[200] - -The Doctors assured her friends that the only way of appeasing the -monster's appetite, was by the constant application of thick slices of -raw beef to the exterior of the part affected--but this remedy was daily -losing its effect. - -My astonishment knew no bounds.--Was it possible such gross ignorance -could exist, or such horrible imposition be practised in the nineteenth -century! - -After much persuasion, Antonio promised to bring his betrothed to San -Roque, to have the advice of an English doctor; my proposal of taking -one to see her, at Ximena, having at once been negatived on the grounds -that it would cause great irritation amongst the people of that town; -and, accordingly, on the day appointed for the meeting, Manuela, borne -on a kind of litter, and accompanied by her aunt, came to San Roque on -the pretence of its being her wish to offer a wax bust at the shrine of -one of the Emigré Saints of Gibraltar "now established in the city of -_San Roque de su Campo;_" which said saint, having taken a very active -part in expelling the Moors from Spain, it was naturally concluded might -feel an interest in driving the devil out of Manuela's breast. - -Antonio's mistress had evidently been a lovely creature. Her features -were beautifully outlined, but her white lips and bloodless cheeks, her -sunken eyes and wasted figure, declared the ravages making by some -terrible inward disease. She was suffering excessive pain from the -effects of the journey, but received us with a faint smile. - -"I fear, sir," she said, with some emotion, addressing herself to my -friend, Dr. ----, "I fear, sir, that I have given you unnecessary trouble -in coming to see me, for I am told that my disorder is beyond the reach -of medical skill; but my friend here," pointing to her lover, who, with -brimful eyes, stood watching alternately the pain-distorted countenance -of his mistress and that of the Doctor, hoping, if possible, to discover -his thoughts, "my friend here requested me so earnestly to come and meet -you, that, as we shall be so short a time together on this earth, I -could not, as far as concerned myself, refuse him so slight a favour, -and I hope you will pardon the inconvenience to which we have put you." - -Antonio and myself now withdrew, leaving Manuela and Doña Felipa with -Dr. ----, who, in a short time rejoined us, and, to Antonio's -inexpressible delight, informed him that the case of his betrothed was -not by any means hopeless, though she would have to submit to a painful -surgical operation, and then turning round to me, he added, "the poor -creature is suffering from a cancerous affection, which, fortunately, is -just in the state that I could most wish it to be. But no time must be -lost." - -The nature of the case having been fully explained to Antonio, it was -left to him to persuade Manuela to submit to the necessary operation, -and to inform her, that though it might be performed with safety _then_, -yet death must inevitably be the consequence of delay. - -The prejudices we were prepared to encounter were numerous, but they -were propounded chiefly by Manuela's aunt, she herself agreeing without -hesitation to every thing Antonio suggested. At length, however, the old -lady said a positive answer should be given after consulting with a -priest, and I forthwith accompanied Antonio to Don ---- ----, and -requested his attendance. - -Antonio was present at the consultation, and gave us an amusing account -of it. The main objection of the Doña Felipa was to the heretical hand -that was to direct the knife; but the worthy _Padre_--who had good -reason to know the superior skill of the English faculty over those of -his own country, and was himself _spelling_ for a little advice on the -score of an over-strained digestion--took the case up most zealously, -and eventually overcame all their scruples. - -"Fear not," said he, winding up his arguments, "Fear not, good dame, to -trust the maiden in his hands. Like as the Lord opened the mouth of -Balaam's ass to admonish her master, so has he put wisdom into the heads -of these heretical doctors for the good of us, his faithful servants. -Quiet your conscience, Señora Felipa, I myself have been physicked by -these semi-christian _Medicos_." - -The case was not much in point, but it served the purpose. Doña Felipa -was convinced; her niece submitted; the operation was successfully -performed; the colour in a short time returned to the cheeks of the -truly lovely and loveable Manuela; the smile of health once again -lighted up her intelligent countenance. And, ere I left the country, the -small share it had fallen to my lot to take in producing this happy -change, was gratefully acknowledged by the expressive, though downcast -glance that gleamed from Manuela's bright and joyous eyes, on my -addressing her as the bride of the knight of San Fernando. - -THE END. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - - _Itinerary of the principal Roads of Andalusia, and of the three - great Routes leading from that Province to the Cities of Madrid, - Lisbon, and Valencia._ - -N.B. The measurements on the Post Roads are given in Spanish leagues, -conformably with the Government Regulations by which Postmasters are -authorized to charge for their horses. On these, therefore, the -distances from stage to stage cannot be calculated with much precision; -but a Spanish _Post_ league may generally be reckoned 3½[201] English -miles. On the other roads the distances are more accurately specified in -English miles. - - - No. 1. - BAYLEN TO MADRID. - (A Post Road, travelled by Diligences.) - - Leagues. - From Baylen to Guarroman 2 - thence to La Carolina 2 - Santa Elena 2 - La Venta de Cardenas 2 - Visillo 2 - Sta. Cruz de Mudela 2 - Val de Peñas 2 - N. S. de la Consalacion 2 - Manzanares 2 - La Casa nueva del Rey 2½ - Villaharta 2½ - Vta. del Puerto Lapice 2 - Madridejos 3 - Caña de la higuera 2 - Tembleque 2 - Guardia 2 - Ocaña 3½ - Aranjuez 2 - Espartinas 2½ - Los Angeles 3 - Madrid 2½ - --- - Total leagues 47½ - --- - 47½ leagues = 164 English miles. - - - No. 2. - SEVILLE TO LISBON. - (Post road, travelled by Carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Seville to Santi Ponce 1 - thence to La Venta de Guillena 3 - Ronquillo 3 - Santa Olalla 4 - Monasterio 4 - Fuente de Cantos 3 - Los Santos de Maimona 4 - Santa Marta 5 - Albuera 3 - Badajos 4 - Elvas (Portugal) 3 - Lisbon 30 - -- - Total leagues 67 - -- - 67 leagues = 232 miles. - - - No. 3. - GRANADA TO VALENCIA. - (Post road, no Diligence.) - - Leagues. - From Granada to Diezma 6 - thence to Guadiz 3 - From Guadiz to Baza 7 - thence to Lorca 18 - Murcia 12 - Alicante 13 - San Felipe 9 - Valencia 14 - -- - Total leagues 82 - -- - -82 leagues=284 miles. - - -No. 4. - -CADIZ to MADRID. - -(Post road travelled by carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to San Fernando 3 - thence to Puerto Sta. Maria 3 - Xeres de la Frontera 2½ - de Casa Real del Cuervo 3½ - Ventllo de la Torre de Orcas 3½ - Utrera 3½ - Alcalà de Guadaira 3 - Mairena del Alcor 2 - Carmona 2 - da Venta de la Portugueza 2½ - Luisiana 3½ - Ecija 3 - La Carlota 4 - Cortijo de Mangonegro 3 - Cordoba 3 - Alcolea 2 - Carpio 3 - Aldea del Rio 3½ - Andujar 3½ - La Casa del Rey 2½ - Baylen 2½ - By No. 1, from Baylen to Madrid 47½ - ---- - Total leagues 109½ - ---- - -109½ leagues=378 miles - - -No. 5. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE. - -(Post and carriage road.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to Alcalà de Guadaira, - by Route No. 4 22 - Thence to Seville 2 - -- - Total leagues 24 - -24 leagues=83 miles. - - -No. 6. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE, by the MARISMA. - -(Direct road, passable for carriages in summer only.) - - Miles. - - From Cadiz, by boat, to El - Puerto de Santa Maria 5 - Thence to Xeres 9 - Lebrija 15 - Seville 28 - -- - Total miles 57 - -- - - -No. 7. - -CADIZ to LISBON. - -(Post road.) - - Leagues. - - From Cadiz to Seville, by No. 5. 24 - Seville to Lisbon, by No. 2. 67 - -- - Total leagues 91 - -- - -91 leagues = 315 miles. - - -No. 8. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Los Barrios 12 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 9 - La Venta de Tabilla 11 - La Venta de Vejer 14 - (Town of Vejer ½ a mile on left.) - Chiclana 16 - El Puente Zuazo 4½ - Cadiz 9 - --- - Total miles 75½ - --- - - -No. 9. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Another bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Algeciras[202] 9 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 10 - by No. 8 54½ - ---- - Total miles 73½ - ---- - - -No. 10. - -GIBRALTAR to XERES. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - Thence to La Venta la Gamez 4½ - La Casa de Castañas 15 - Alcalà de los Gazules 13 - (The town left ½ a mile to the right.) - Paterna 9 - Xeres 16 - --- - Total miles 63½ - --- - - -No. 11. - -GIBRALTAR to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ximena 24 - thence to Ubrique 20 - El Broque 10 - Villa Martin 8 - Utrera 21 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - -- - Total miles 98 - -- - - -No 12. - -GIBRALTAR to LISBON. - -(Bridle road to Seville, from thence a carriage road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Seville, by - Route No. 11 98 - From Seville to Lisbon, by - Route No. 2 232 - --- - Total miles 330 - --- - - -No. 13. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -(A post, but only bridle road to Osuna, from thence a carriage route.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - thence to Gaucin 25 - Atajate 14 - Ronda 10 - From Ronda to Saucejo 21 - thence to Osuna 11 - Ecija 20 - By Route No. 4, from thence - to Baylen, 27 leagues = 93 - By Route No. 1, from Baylen - to Madrid, 47½ leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 364 - --- - - -No. 14. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -BY BENEMEJI. - -(A bridle road only as far as Andujar.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ronda, by - Route No. 13 55 - From Ronda to La Venta de - Teba 21 - (Town of Teba ½ mile on the right) - thence to Campillos 6 - Fuente de Piedra 9 - Benemeji 16 - Lucena 12 - Baena 18 - Porcuna 24 - Andujar 14 - Baylen 17 - By Route No. 1, to Madrid, - 47½ leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 356 - --- - - -No. 15. - -GIBRALTAR to MALAGA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Venta Guadiaro 12 - thence to Estepona 15 - Marbella 16 - Fuengirola 16 - Benalmedina 6 - Malaga 14 - -- - Total miles 79 - -- - - -No. 16. - -GIBRALTAR to GRANADA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Gibraltar to Malaga, by - Route No. 15 79 - From Malaga to Valez 18 - thence to La Venta de Alcaucin 12 - Alhama 12 - La Venta de Huelma 15 - La Mala 6 - Granada 9 - ---- - Total miles 151 - ---- - - -No. 17. - -GIBRALTAR to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Granada, by - Route No. 16 151 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 435 - ---- - - -No. 18. - -MALAGA to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Malaga to Venta de Cartama 13½ - (leaves town of Cartama 1 mile - on left.) - Venta de Cartama to Casarabonela 11½ - (the ascent to this town may be - avoided, keeping it to the left) - Casarabonela to El Burgo 9 - thence to Ronda 11 - Zahara 15 - (Town half a mile off, on the left.) - thence to Puerto Serrano 7 - Coronil 10 - Utrera 8 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - ---- - Total miles 100 - ---- - - -No. 19. - -MALAGA to CORDOBA. - -(Practicable for Carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Venta de Galvez 15¾ - thence to Antequera 12¼ - Puente Don Gonzalo 27 - Rambla 16 - Cordoba 16 - --- - Total miles 87 - --- - - -No. 20. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(Post road, travelled by a Diligence.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to El Colmenar 17 - Thence to Venta de Alfarnate 10 - Loja 16 - Venta de Cacin 8 - Lachar 9 - Santa Fé 8 - Granada 8 - Venta de San Rafael 27 - Jaen 24 - Menjiber 14 - Baylen 10 - To Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 315 - ---- - - -No. 21. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(a more direct road, but in part only practicable for carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Loja, by Route 43 - Thence to Montefrio 12 - Alcalà la real 14 - Alcaudete 11 - Martos 12 - Arjona 17 - Andujar 7 - Baylen 17 - ---- - Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - - -No. 22. - -MALAGA to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Granada, by - Route No. 16 72 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 356 - ---- - - -No. 23. - -GRANADA to CORDOBA. - -(A wheel road as far as Alcalà.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Pinos de la - Puerte 12 - thence to Alcalà la Real 18 - Baena 24 - Castro el Rio 6 - Cordoba 24 - --- - Total miles 84 - --- - - -No. 24. - -GRANADA to MADRID. - -(Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Baylen, by - Route No. 20 75½ - Thence to Madrid by Route - No. 1 164 - ----- - Total miles 239½ - ----- - - -No. 25. - -GRANADA to SEVILLE. - -(Not a wheel road throughout.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Santa Fé 8 - thence to Lachar 8 - La Venta de Cacin 9 - Loja 8 - Archidona[203] 18 - Alameda 11 - Pedrera 12 - Osuna 11 - Marchena 14 - Maraina del Alcor 14 - Alcalà del Guadiaro 7 - Seville 8 - ---- - Total miles 128 - ---- - - -No. 26. - -SEVILLE to MADRID. - -(Post and Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Seville to Alcalà de Guadaira 8 - Thence to Beylen, by Route - No. 4 138 - Baylen to Madrid, by Route - No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 310 - ---- - - -No. 27. - -SEVILLE to VALENCIA. - - Miles. - From Seville to Granada, by - Route No. 25 128 - From Granada to Valencia, by - Route No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 412 - ---- - - * * * * * - - _Just Published_, - - In 2 vols., 8vo. with Illustrations, - - CAPTAIN SCOTT'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND - CANDIA; - - With Details of the - - MILITARY POWER - - And Resources of those Countries, and Observations on the Government, - Policy, and Commercial System of MOHAMMED ALI. - -"One of the most sterling publications of the season. We have recently -had no small supply of information on Egypt, but there is a freshness in -Captain Scott's narrative that affords a new desire respecting the -events of this most interesting country. The narrative is throughout -light, and amusing; the habits and customs of the people are sketched -with considerable spirit and talent, and there is much novelty in the -gallant Author's details."--_Naval and Military Gazette._ - -"We do not recollect to have read a better book of travels than this, -since Slade's able publication on Turkey. The field of African and -Egyptian investigation has been variously trodden, but Captain Scott, -trusting to a shrewd observation and a sound understanding, has struck -out new lights and improved upon the information of others."--_United -Service Journal._ - - HENRY COLBURN, Publisher, 13, Great Marlborough Street. - - To be had of all Booksellers. - -_In a Few Days will be Published_, - -A TRAVELLING MAP OF PART OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN, - -INCLUDING THE GREATER PORTION OF THE KINGDOMS OF SEVILLE, CORDOBA, JAEN, -AND GRANADA. - -Compiled from the best Authorities, and Corrected from his own Notes and -Sketches, - -By CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - -AUTHOR OF "EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA AND GRANADA, &c. &c. -&c." - -To be had of Mr. NEW, Mapseller and Publisher, No. 11, Strand, price -2_s._ 6_d._ - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] See the Posting Itinerary in the Appendix. - -[2] The post league has already been stated to contain 3 English miles, -and 807 yards. - -[3] Town-hall. - -[4] Lobster-hunting--such is the name for Locust in Spanish. - -[5] Or Genua urbanorum.--Pliny. - -[6] Hirt. Bel. Hist. Cap. LXI. - -[7] In an abundant house supper is soon cooked. - -[8] Red pepper. - -[9] Cabbage. - -[10] A kind of sausage, resembling those made at Bologna. - -[11] Bacon.--Spanish bacon is certainly the best in the world, which -may be accounted for by the swine being fed principally on acorns, -chesnuts, and Indian corn. - -[12] No vain boast--the fact being established on the testimony of -Rocca. - -[13] Florez Medallas de las Colonias, &c. - -[14] Mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus--not the Ilipa of Strabo -and Pliny, situated on the river Boetis, and in the county of Seville. - -[15] The orchard. - -[16] Evil doer. - -[17] Alleys. - -[18] The dead body. - -[19] Roguish. - -[20] La Martinière fell into a strange error in describing this river -and the battle field on its bank; making the stream fall into the bay -of Cadiz, and the scene of Alfonso's victory some fifty miles from -Tarifa. This mistake has been followed by several modern authors. - -[21] Not the Mellaria of Pliny, which was a city of the Turduli, within -the county of Cordoba. - -[22] A ruined town, no longer inhabited. - -[23] By Strabo ninety-four miles, following the coast: i.e. 750 Stadia. - -[24] Lib. III. Some editions enumerate two cities called _Besippo_, -thus, "Bæsaro Tauilla dicte Bæsippo, Barbesula, Lacippo, Bæsippo, &c.;" -but Holland and Harduin give only one, calling the first "_Belippo_." - -[25] There is no Epidemic here. - -[26] There are more direct cross-roads to these places, but they are -not always passable in winter. - -[27] _Toll-house._ - -[28] Strabo. - -[29] This one amongst the various restraints laid on the trade of -Gibraltar has very lately been removed on the remonstrance of our -government. - -[30] Shops where ice is sold. - -[31] I understand this Cathedral is now being patched up in an -economical way to render it serviceable. - -[32] Road of Hercules. The causeway connecting Cadiz with the Isla de -Leon is so called, and supposed to be a work of the Demi-god. - -[33] 400 or 500 butts of Wine are shipped yearly from this place. - -[34] The old mouth of the Guadalete is obstructed by a yet more -impracticable bar. - -[35] 10,000 butts of Wine are collected annually from the vineyards of -Puerto Santa Maria. The exports amount to 12,000. - -[36] Camomile. - -[37] Mother. - -[38] So called from the town of _Montilla_, whence the grape, that -originally produced this description of dry, light-coloured wine, was -brought to Xeres. - -[39] Carthusian convent. - -[40] Strabo and Pliny. - -[41] A Fen, subject to the inundations of the sea. Such, however, is -not the case here. - -[42] Water-courses, which are dry in summer. - -[43] Written _Vrgia_ by Pliny--_Vcia_ by Ptolemy. - -[44] Itin. Anton. - -[45] España Sagrada. - -[46] This supposes the earth's circumference to have been reckoned -240,000 stadia, giving 83-1/3 miles to a degree of the meridian. By the -calculation of Eratosthenes, the circumference of the earth was 252,000 -stadia, which gives exactly 700 stadia, or 87½ miles to a degree. - -[47] Mariana (lib. 3. cap. 22) has quite mistaken the situation of this -place, which he describes as two leagues from Xeres, _on the banks of -the Guadalete_. It is two leagues from Xeres, certainly, but nearly -three from the Guadalete, and but one and a half from the Guadalquivir. - -[48] The area of the Mezquita at Cordoba, taken altogether, is larger, -but not the enclosed portion of Gothic architecture, which is, properly -speaking, the Episcopal church. - -[49] A long time since. - -[50] In England, however, it must be the taste of the nation that is -suffering from disease, rather than its drama, if, with such writers as -Sheridan Knowles, Talfourd, and Bulwer, the theatre does not once more -become a popular place of resort. - -[51] Farce; but, literally, goût, highly seasoned dish. - -[52] Low and disorderly people. - -[53] Florez Medallas descubiertas, &c. - -[54] Old Seville. - -[55] De Bell. Civ. - -[56] Hollond--intending, of course, the Itipa of the Itinerary, since -the city of that name, mentioned by Pliny, was on the right bank of -the Guadalquivír; and from medals discovered of it, whereon a fish is -borne, may be concluded to have stood on the very margin of the river. - -[57] The gallant and talented author of the "History of the Peninsular -War" has fallen into some slight topographical errors (caused, -probably, by the extraordinary inaccuracy of the Spanish maps) in -describing the movements of the contending armies. He describes, for -instance, the French as obliging the Duke of Albuquerque to abandon -his position at Carmona (where he had hoped to cover both Seville -and Cadiz), by moving from Ecija upon Utrera (i.e. in rear of the -Spanish army), along "a road by Moron, shorter" than that leading to -the same place through Carmona. But so far from this road by Moron -being "_shorter_," it is yet more circuitous than the chaussée; and, -moreover, by skirting the foot of the Ronda mountains, it is both bad -and hilly. - -He furthermore represents the Duke of Albuquerque as falling back -from Utrera upon Xeres, with all possible speed, and, nevertheless, -taking Lebrija in his way, which town is, at least, eight miles out -of the direct road. A French account (_La Pène, Campagne de 1810_) -says, the Spanish army fell back from Carmona "par le chemin _le plus -direct, Utrera et Arcos sur Xeres_,"--an error equally glaring, for the -chaussée is the shortest road from Utrera to Xeres;--in fact, it is as -direct as a road can well be, and leaves Arcos some twelve miles on -the left! We may suppose, in attempting to reconcile these discrepant -accounts, that the main body of the duke's army retreated from Utrera -to Xeres by the chaussée; the cavalry by Arcos, to cover its right -flank during the march; and that the road by Lebrija was taken by the -troops withdrawn from Seville, as being the most direct route from that -city to Xeres. - -[58] Don Maldonado Saavedra viewed it in this light, imagining that, in -the Itinerary of Antoninus from Cadiz to Cordoba, two distinct roads -were referred to; one proceeding direct, by way of Seville, whence it -was taken up by another road, afterwards described, to Cordoba; the -other (starting again from Cadiz) traversing the Serranía de Ronda to -Antequera, and proceeding thence to Cordoba by Ulía. Florez, however, -disputes this hypothesis, conceiving that but one route is intended, -and that from Seville onwards it was given, not as a direct road, but -merely as one by which troops might be marched if occasion required. -But why, if such were the case, a road should have been made that -increased the distance from Seville to Antequera from 85 to 121 miles, -he does not explain; and I confess, therefore, it seems to me, that Don -Maldonado Saavedra's supposition is the more probable. The distances, -however, between the modern places which he has named as corresponding -with those mentioned in the Itinerary do not at all agree; and he -also, in laying down the road from Cadiz to Antequera, has made it -unnecessarily circuitous. The following towns will be found to answer -much better with those mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, and the line -connecting them is one of the most practicable through the Serranía. - -_Iter a Gadis Corduba, milia plus minus 295 sic._ - - Roman miles. - - Ad pontem (Puente Zuazo) m. p. m. 12 - Portu Gaditano (Puerto Santa Maria) 14 - Hasta (near La Mesa de Asta) 16 - Ugia (Las Cabezas de San Juan) 27 - Orippo (Dos Hermanos) 24 - Hispali (Seville) 9 - - (returning now to the Puente Zuazo, we have to) - - Basilippo (a rocky mound and ruins between Paterna - and Alcalà de los Gazules) 21 - - -[59] Olbera, according to Saavedra. - -[60] This disagreement with the heading is in the original. - -[61] Cura de los Palacios. - -[62] The diminutive of Venta. - -[63] Are they English? - -[64] Literally--on which foot the business was lame. - -[65] - - He who shelters himself under a good tree, - gets a good shade. - - -[66] Name and surname. - -[67] Beneficed clergyman. - -[68] Glance--from ojo, eye. - -[69] Good for study. - -[70] The lower orders of Spaniards, generally speaking, imagine that -Protestantism implies a denial of the Godhead in the person of Our -Saviour, and consider that but for our eating pork, like _Christianos -Viejos_, we should be little better than Jews. For the whole seed of -Israel, they entertain a most preposterous dislike; so deep rooted is -it, indeed, that I once knew an instance of a young Spanish woman--far -removed from a _low_ station in life, however--who was perfectly -horrified on being told by an English lady that Our Saviour was a -Jew. Her exclamation of "Jesus!" was in a key which seemed to express -wonder that such a blasphemous assertion had not met with the summary -punishment of Annanias and Sapphira. I have no doubt but that the bad -success which has attended the _Cristina_ arms is attributed by the -lower orders less to the incapacity of Espartero and Co. than to the -Jewish blood flowing in the veins of Señor Mendizabel. - -[71] Mapping the town. - -[72] A Spanish side-saddle; or, more properly, an _arm-chair_, placed -sideways on a horse's back, with a board to rest the feet upon. - -[73] Female attendant. - -[74] Managing person. - -[75] Ages ago. - -[76] Many Roman Emperors. - -[77] As it is said, by an Englishman named Marlborough, and other very -distinguished persons. - -[78] Palacios, posadas, y todo--i.e., palaces, inns, and _every thing_. - -[79] Throughout Spain. - -[80] For every thing it has a cure--look you, &c. - -[81] Youngster. - -[82] The poor old Tio could not have acted under "proper directions," -as I am informed that he died the year following my last visit to the -_Hedionda_. - -[83] I drink no other--never any other--I cook and every thing with it. - -[84] Even to its bad smell. - -[85] Little walk. - -[86] A game that bears some resemblance to Boston. - -[87] The Invalid. - -[88] The water--nothing but the water--there is nothing in the world -more salutary. - -[89] They say that he was one of those lords, of whom there are so many -in England. - -[90] Heaps of gold. - -[91] To me it appears. - -[92] The Spaniards considered tea a medicine. - -[93] A gentleman in whom perfect confidence might be placed. - -[94] Yes, sir; that is true. - -[95] Pastures. - -[96] There are many robbers hereabouts--last year (accursed be these -rascally Spaniards!) a good fowling-piece was stolen from me in this -confounded narrow pass, &c. - -[97] These beggarly Spaniards, &c. - -[98] Young lady of the house. - -[99] Very well _combed_, literally--her hair well dressed. - -[100] Unequalled. - -[101] A young girl I am bringing up for (_i. e._ to be) a countess. - -[102] Now, gentlemen, it is necessary to load--these cowardly Spaniards -always fall suddenly upon one; and, if we are not prepared, we shall -be all netted, like so many little birds.--We are all well armed with -double-barrelled guns, and, with prudence, we shall have nothing to -fear--but ...! prudence is necessary. - -[103] In these parts, no evil-disposed persons whatever are to be met -with; that sort of _canaille_ know too well who Louis de Castro is. - -[104] A gazpacho, eaten hot. - -[105] Literally, _beds_--spots frequented by the deer. - -[106] Wolf. - -[107] The position taken up by the sportsmen is called the _cama_, as -well as the haunt of the game. - -[108] A day of foxes--an expression amongst Spanish sportsmen, -signifying an unlucky day. - -[109] Literally, light--here used as "_fire!_" - -[110] A wild boar! zounds! - -[111] Yes, it is a sow. - -[112] To escape from the thunder, and encounter the lightning. - -[113] The war-cry of the Spaniards. - -[114] I precede you with this motive, and in the shortest possible time -_all will be ready_. - -[115] Very dear friend of mine; aprec'ion, abbreviation of apreciacion; -esteem. - -[116] Go you with God ... and without a horse. - -[117] An ounce; i. e. a doubloon. - -[118] Get down directly. - -[119] Perhaps a flight of woodcocks will arrive to-night. Is it not -true, good father? - -[120] "It is infested with banditti at each step. Is it not true, Don -Diego, that that rocky path beyond Alcalà is called the road to the -infernal regions?" "Yes, yes--as true as holy writ." - -[121] Rock of Sancho. - -[122] The little stream that empties itself into the sea, near Tarifa, -is called _El_ Salado, _par excellence_, in consequence of the great -victory gained on its banks by Alfonso XI.; but, properly speaking, it -is El Salado _de Tarifa_. - -[123] Hirtius, Bel. Hisp. cap 7. - -[124] Ibid. cap. 8. - -[125] Dion--Lib. 48. - -[126] Dion and Hirtius. - -[127] Cap. 27. - -[128] _Singilia Hegua_, corrected by Hardouin to Singili Ategua.--The -ruins of Singili are on the banks of the Genil (Singilis) to the north -of Antequera. - -[129] It is a mere boast, however, for, according to Rocca, the French -entered the town and levied a contribution. - -[130] Scanty _vecinos_--a _vecino_, used as a _statistical_ term, -implies a hearth or family, though literally a neighbour. The Spanish -computation of population is always made by _vecinos_. - -[131] He does not understand. - -[132] Have no anxiety. - -[133] Mapping the country. - -[134] Town. - -[135] Fair and softly. - -[136] Nonsense. - -[137] Should this good woman be yet living, I suspect her opinion on -this point will have undergone a material change--like that of most -Spaniards. - -[138] With polite mien and deportment. - -[139] What a rare people are these English! - -[140] Mentioned by Hirtius--Bell. Hisp. Cap. XXVII. - -[141] The salutary waters of the divine Genil.--DON QUIJOTE. - -[142] Dion and Hirtius. - -[143] Zurita and Hardouin maintain, that it is not in the old editions -of Pliny. - -[144] Foreign gentlemen. - -[145] The wheel of fortune revolves more rapidly than that of a mill, -and those who were elevated yesterday, to-day are on the ground. - -[146] These _Salvo conductos_ were by no means uncommon in those days. -A friend of mine offered to procure me one to ensure me the protection -of the celebrated _José Maria_. - -[147] Forward, forward, heartless deceiver! - -[148] There is no wedding without its morrow's festival. - -[149] - - Between the hand and the mouth - the soup falls - - -[150] Holy face. - -[151] Uninhabited place. - -[152] Distant from Cordoba 300 stadia. - -[153] Distant fourteen miles from the Guadalquivír. - -[154] _Illiturgi quod Forum Julium._--PLINY. - -[155] Titus Livius, lib. 28. - -[156] Pliny. - -[157] To the parlour! to the parlour! - -[158] Be not afraid. - -[159] Stew. - -[160] Literally, that he could no more. - -[161] I, the king. - -[162] With us, I am sorry to say, "the honour of knighthood" has, in -too many instances, become rather an acknowledgment of so many years' -_good salary received_, than of any meritorious service performed. - -[163] A very small copper coin. - -[164] And this is a teapot! - -[165] A pillow! - -[166] What voluptuous people! - -[167] A stone--a flint. - -[168] How! without horses, without mules, without any thing, save steam! - -[169] The estate, so called, was bestowed on the Duke of Wellington, as -a slight acknowledgment of the distinguished services rendered by him -to the Spanish nation. - -[170] Santa Fé, built by Ferdinand and Isabella during the siege of -Granada, and dignified by them with the title of _city_, is a wretched -little walled town, of some twelve or fifteen hundred inhabitants; and, -excepting two full-length portraits of the Catholic kings contained in -the church, possesses nothing worthy of notice. - -[171] Eating; to use the expression of one of the peasants we conversed -with. - -[172] _Itinerary of Antoninus._ - - Malaca to Suel 21 m. p. m. - To Cilniana 24 " - To Barbariana 34 " - To Calpe Carteia 10 " - -- - Total 89 miles. - -Pomponius Mela has made sad confusion of the itinerary from Malaca to -Gades (of which the above is a part), by introducing Barbesula and -Calpe, and mentioning Carteia twice; but, on attentive observation, it -is evident he intended to imply that the road bifurked at Cilniana, -one branch going straight to Carteia by Barbariana, the other making a -detour by Barbesula and Calpe, and rejoining the former at Carteia; the -distance from Malaga to Cadiz, by the first route, being 155 miles, by -the latter 186. - -[173] Pliny. - -[174] Published in 1765. - -[175] "Two leagues" are his words--meaning Spanish measure, or eight -miles English; since he estimates the league at four miles. - -[176] Otherwise called Horgarganta. - -[177] Florez fixes Salduba where I suppose Cilniana to have stood, -i. e. on the eastern bank of the Rio Verde, about two miles to the -westward of Marbella. Cilniana he places at the Torre de Bovedas, a -site to which the objections above stated apply equally as to the -position assigned to that place by Mr. Carter. - -[178] Pliny places Salduba between Barbesula and Suel. - -[179] Marbella is a fine place, but do not enter it. - -[180] This may appear at variance with what I have said in computing -the distance from Malaca to Calpe Carteía in Roman miles--viz., only -eighty of eighty-three and one third to a degree of the meridian: but, -besides that the distance from Malaga to Gibraltar is at least three -English miles greater than to Carteía, the measurement I here give is -along a winding pathway, that makes the distance considerably more than -it would have been by a properly made road, even though it had followed -all the irregularities of the coast. - -[181] Bell. Hisp. cap. xxix. - -[182] Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga. - -[183] Traces of the first-named of these Roman roads may yet be seen -about Tolox. The latter was one of the great military roads mentioned -in the Itinerary of Antoninus, and, doubtless, existed long before that -work was compiled. - -[184] Hirtius, de Bell. Hisp. xxix. et seq. - -[185] Great allowance must be made for exaggeration in enumerating -the strength of contending armies in those early times, since even -in these days of despatches, bulletins, and Moniteurs, it is so -extremely difficult to get at the truth. The battle of Waterloo offers -a remarkable instance of this, for no two published accounts agree as -to the respective numbers of the belligerents, and one which I have -read--a French one, of course--swells the force under the Duke of -Wellington, on the 18th June, to 170,000 men!!! - -[186] The inscription is given at length in Florez España Sagrada. - -[187] The source of the Sigila, now called El Rio Grande, is -twenty-five English miles from Cartama, following the course of the -river. - -[188] Certainly _not_ Mr. Carter's, than which I never saw a more -complete caricature. Not one of the rivers is marked correctly upon it, -and the towns are scattered about where chance directed. - -[189] Hirtius Bell. Hisp. xxviii. - -[190] Ibid. xli. - -[191] An account of which place has already been given in Chapter I. of -this volume. - -[192] "Don Ferdinand the Seventh, by the grace of God, king of Castile, -Leon, Aragon, the Two Sicilies, Jerusalem, Navarre, Granada, Toledo, -Valencia, Gallicia, Majorca, Seville, Sardinia, Cordoba, Corsica, -Murcia, Jaen, the Algarves, Algeciras, Gibraltar, the Canary Islands, -the East and West Indies, islands and terra firma of the Great Ocean; -archduke of Austria; duke of Burgundy, Brabant, and Milan; Count of -Hapsburg, Flanders, the Tyrol, and Barcelona; Lord of Biscay and -Molina, &c."--The seeming wish to avoid prolixity, implied by this -"&c." is admirable. - -[193] _Clean_ blood. - -[194] At any price. - -[195] These love affairs are much to my taste. - -[196] Attractions--literally, _hooking_ qualities. - -[197] In fine--as it was captain for captain. - -[198] Not a bit. - -[199] Would to God! - -[200] Eating her life. - -[201] A Post league is equal to 3 British statute miles and 807 yards. - -[202] To Algeciras, by boat, saves 4 miles. - -[203] This is the only stage that is not perfectly practicable for a -carriage. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -Adventnre with Itinerant=> Adventure with Itinerant {pg v} - -gradully hauled=> gradually hauled {pg 54} - -rocky islot rises=> rocky islet rises {pg 62} - -in the joint-stock vilstge=> in the joint-stock village {pg 180} - -he exclaimed=> he ex-exclaimed {pg 212} - -It was necessry=> It was necessary {pg 241} - -the chace, and trust=> the chase, and trust {pg 256} - -addressiug me=> addressing me {pg 300} - -extarordinary=> extraordinary {pg 331} - -woollen mattrasses=> woollen mattresses {pg 337} - -too many intances=> too many instances {pg 346} - -decsends=> descends {pg 384} - -considered irresisitble=> considered irresistible {pg 387} - -acccordingly=> accordingly {pg 421} - -to unite her to to the son=> to unite her to the son {pg 429} - -long turned a a deaf ear=> long turned a deaf ear {pg 430} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda -and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43705-8.txt or 43705-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/0/43705/ - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/43705-8.zip b/43705-8.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index c0b8c19..0000000 --- a/43705-8.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/43705-h.zip b/43705-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index acfe152..0000000 --- a/43705-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/43705.txt b/43705.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ac458fd..0000000 --- a/43705.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11680 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and -Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2 - -Author: Charles Rochfort Scott - -Release Date: September 12, 2013 [EBook #43705] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Etext transcriber's note: The footnotes have been located after the -etext. Corrections of some obvious typographical errors have been made -(a list follows the etext); the spellings of several words currently -spelled in a different manner have been left un-touched. (i.e. -chesnut/chestnut; every thing/everything; Our's/Ours; Codoba/Cordoba; -sanitory/sanitary; your's/yours; janty/jaunty; visiters/visitors; -negociation/negotiation.) The accentuation of words in Spanish has not -been corrected or normalized. - -[Illustration: CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR - -_On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott_ - -_R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre_ - -_Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St._] - - - - - EXCURSIONS - - IN THE - - MOUNTAINS - - OF - - RONDA AND GRANADA, - - WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES - OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN. - - BY - - CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - - AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA." - - "_Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos - hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras._" - DON QUIJOTE. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - VOL. II. - - LONDON: - HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, - GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. - - 1838. - - LONDON: - - F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - - PAGE - -CHAPTER I. - -Departure from Cordoba--Post Road to -Cadiz--Carlota--Ecija--Carmona--Road from Ecija to -Gibraltar--Locusts--Osuna--Saucejo--An Olla in -perfection--Ronda--Splendid Scenery on the road to Grazalema--Distant -View of Zahara--Grazalema--Extensive Prospect from the Pass of -Bozal--Secluded Orchards of Benamajama--Pajarete--El -Broque--Ubrique--Difficult Road across the Mountains to Ximena--Our -Guide in a rage--Fine Scenery--Ximena--Strength of its Castle--Road to -Gibraltar 1 - -CHAPTER II. - -Departure for Cadiz--Road round the Bay of Gibraltar--Algeciras--Sandy -Bay--Gualmesi--Tarifa--Its Foundation--Error of Mariana in supposing it -to be Carteia--Battle of El Salado--Mistake of La Martiniere concerning -it--Itinerary of Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified--Continuation -of Journey--Ventas of Tavilla and Retin--Vejer--Conil--Spanish Method of -Extracting Good from Evil--Tunny Fishery--Barrosa--Field of -Battle--Chiclana--Road to Cadiz--Puente Zuazo--San Fernando--Temple of -Hercules--Castle of Santi Petri--Its Importance to Cadiz 33 - -CHAPTER III. - -Cadiz--Its Foundation--Various Names--Past Prosperity--Made a Free Port -in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar--Unjust Restrictions on -the Commerce of the British Fortress--Description of Cadiz--Its vaunted -Agremens--Society--Monotonous Life--Cathedral--Admirably built Sea -Wall--Naval Arsenal of La Carraca--Road to Xeres--Puerto Real--Puerto de -Santa Maria--Xeres--Its Filth--Wine Stores--Method of Preparing -Wine--Doubts of the Ancient and Derivation of the Present Name of -Xeres--Carthusian Convent--Guadalete--Battle of Xeres 64 - -CHAPTER IV. - -Choice of Roads to Seville--By Lebrija--Mirage--The Marisma--Post -Road--Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios--Difficulty of -Reconciling any of these Routes with that of the Roman -Itinerary--Seville--General Description of the City--The -Alameda--Display of Carriages--Elevation of the Host--Public -Buildings--The Cathedral--Lonja--American Archives--Alcazar--Casa -Pilata--Royal Snuff Manufactory--Cannon Foundry--Capuchin -Convent--Murillo--Theatre of Seville--Observations on the State of the -National Drama--Moratin--The Bolero--Spanish Dancing--The Spaniards not -a Musical People 90 - -CHAPTER V. - -Society of Seville--Spanish Women--Faults of Education--Evils of Early -Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance--Environs of Seville--Triana--San -Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce--Ruins of Italica--Italica not so ancient -a City as Hispalis--Young Pigs and the Muses--Departure from -Seville--The Marques De Las Amarillas--Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice -of the Late King of Spain--Alcala De Guadiara--Utrera--Observations on -the Strategical Importance of this Town--Moron--Military operations of -Riego--Apathy of the Serranos during the Civil War--Olbera--Remarks on -the Itinerary of Antoninus 123 - -CHAPTER VI. - -Ronda to Gaucin--Road to Casares--Difficulty in Procuring -Lodgings--Finally Overcome--The Cura's House--View of the Town from the -Ruins of the Castle--Its Great Strength--Ancient Name--Ideas of the -Spaniards regarding Protestants--Scramble to the Summit of the Sierra -Cristellina--Splendid View--Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of -Sketching--The Cura and his Barometer--Departure for the Baths of -Manilba--Romantic Scenery--Accommodation for Visiters--The Master of the -Ceremonies--Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar--River Guadiaro and -Venta 154 - -CHAPTER VII. - -The Baths of Manilba--A Specimen of Fabulous History--Properties of the -Hedionda--Society of the Bathing Village--Remarkable Mountain--An -English Botanist--Town of Manilba--An Intrusive Visiter--Ride to -Estepona--Return by way of Casares 179 - -CHAPTER VIII. - -A Shooting Party to the Mountains--Our Italian Piqueur, Damien -Berrio--Some Account of his Previous Life--Los Barrios--The Beautiful -Maid, and the Maiden's Levelling Sire--Road to Sanona--Reparation -against Bandits--Arrival at the Caseria--Description of its Owner and -Accommodations--Fine Scenery--A Batida 202 - -CHAPTER IX. - -Luis de Castro 226 - -CHAPTER X. - -Don Luis's Narrative is interrupted by a Boar--The Batida -resumed--Departure from Sanona--Road to Casa Vieja--The Priest's -House--Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants--Departure from Casa -Vieja--Alcala De Los Gazules--Road to Ximena--Return to -Gibraltar 249 - -CHAPTER XI. - -Departure for Madrid--Cordon drawn round the Cholera--Ronda--Road to -Cordoba--Teba--Erroneous Position of the Place on the Spanish Maps--Its -Locality agrees with that of Ategua, as described by Hirtius, and the -Course of the River Guadaljorce with that of the Salsus--Road to -Campillos--The English-loving Innkeeper and his Wife--An Alcalde's -Dinner spoilt--Fuente De Piedra--Astapa--Puente Don -Gonzalo--Rambla--Cordoba--Meeting with an old Acquaintance 267 - -CHAPTER XII. - -History of Blas El Guerrillero--_continued_ 294 - -CHAPTER XIII. - -Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid--Death of King -Ferdinand--Change in our Plans--Road to -Andujar--Alcolea--Montoro--Porcuna--Andujar--Arjono--Torre -Ximeno--Difficulty of Gaining Admission--Success of a -Stratagem--Consternation of the Authorities--Spanish Adherence to -Forms--Contrasts--Jaen--Description of the Castle, City, and -Cathedral--La Santa Faz--Road to Granada--Our Knightly -Attendant--Parador de San Rafael--Hospitable Farmer--Astonishment of the -Natives--Granada--El Soto de Roma--Loja--Venta de -Dornejo--Colmenar--Fine Scenery--Road from Malaga to Antequera, and -Description of that City 325 - -CHAPTER XIV. - -Malaga--Excursion of Marbella and -Monda--Churriana--Benalmania--Fuengirola--Discrepancy of Opinion -respecting the Site of Suel--Scale to be adopted, in order to make the -measurements given in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with the Actual -Distance from Malaga to Carteia--Errors of Carter--Castle of -Fuengirola--Road to Marbella--Tower and Casa Fuertes--Disputed Site of -Salduba--Description of Marbella--Abandoned Mines--Distance to -Gibraltar 363 - -CHAPTER XV. - -A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain--Road to -Monda--Secluded Valley of Ojen--Monda--Discrepancy of Opinion respecting -the Site of the Roman City of Munda--Ideas of Mr. Carter on the -Subject--Reasons adduced for concluding that Modern Monda occupies the -Site of the Ancient City--Assumed Positions of the Contending Armies of -Cneius Pompey and Caesar, in the Vicinity of the Town--Road to -Malaga--Towns of Coin and Alhaurin--Bridge over the Guadaljorce--Return -to Gibraltar--Notable Instance of the Absurdity of Quarantine -Regulations 382 - -CHAPTER XVI. - -The Knight of San Fernando 410 - - -APPENDIX 439 - - - - -EXCURSIONS - -IN THE - -MOUNTAINS - -OF - -RONDA AND GRANADA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - DEPARTURE FROM CORDOBA--POST-ROAD TO - CADIZ--CARLOTA--ECIJA--CARMONA--ROAD FROM ECIJA TO - GIBRALTAR--LOCUSTS--OSUNA--SAUCEJO--AN OLLA IN - PERFECTION--RONDA--SPLENDID SCENERY ON THE ROAD TO - GRAZALEMA--DISTANT VIEW OF ZAHARA--GRAZALEMA--EXTENSIVE PROSPECT - FROM THE PASS OF BOZAL--SECLUDED ORCHARDS OF - BENAMAJAMA--PAJARETE--EL BROQUE--UBRIQUE--DIFFICULT ROAD ACROSS THE - MOUNTAINS TO XIMENA--OUR GUIDE IN A RAGE--FINE - SCENERY--XIMENA--STRENGTH OF ITS CASTLE--ROAD TO GIBRALTAR. - - -On leaving Cordoba, we turned our horses' heads homewards, taking the -_arrecife_, or high road, to Seville and Cadiz. This appears to follow -the _direct_ Roman military way given in detail in the Itinerary of -Antoninus; the distances from station to station, on the modern road, -agreeing perfectly with those specified in the Itinerary, which, as it -runs very straight as far as Ecija, would not be the case if the Roman -road had diverged either to the right or left, as some are disposed to -make it, placing _Adaras_ (one of the intermediate stations) on the -margin of the Guadalquivir. - -Several monuments, bearing inscriptions alluding to this military way, -are preserved at Cordoba. They all describe it as being from the temple -of Janus _to_ the Boetis, (meaning, it must be presumed, the _mouth_ -of the river) and to the ocean. - -The road is no longer paved, as it is described to have been in those -days; but, nevertheless, it is good enough to enable a lumbering -diligence to pulverize the gravel daily on its tedious way between -Madrid and Seville. It is also furnished with relays of post horses,[1] -but the posting establishments being, as in most other countries of -Europe, under the direction of the government, is a satire upon the term -_post haste_. - -From Cordoba to Ecija is ten leagues.[2] The road, on reaching the river -_Badajocillo_, or Guadajoz, which is crossed by a lofty stone bridge, -commanding a fine view of Cordoba, leaves the rich alluvial valley of -the Guadalquivir, and enters upon an undulated tract of country, that -extends nearly all the way to Ecija. At three leagues is the scattered -village and post-house of Mango-negro, and three leagues beyond that -again, the settlement of Carlota. The ride is most uninteresting; as, -besides being tamely outlined and thinly peopled, the country is nearly -destitute of wood, and, in the summer season, of water; though, judging -from the extraordinary number of bridges, especially on drawing near -Carlota, there must be a superabundance in winter. Carlota is one of the -numerous villages which Charles the Third colonized from the Tyrol. It -consists principally of isolated cottages, standing some hundred yards -apart, and the same distance from the road; but there is a small -congregation of houses round the chapel, post-house, and _Casa del -Ayuntamiento_,[3] and a _Gasthof_, which I can say, from personal -experience, would do no discredit to Innsbruck itself. - -The parish contains 250 houses, and a population of 1500 souls. The -fields round Carlota certainly appear to be better tilled than those in -other parts of the country, and there is a German tidiness about its -white cottages, as well as a platterfacedness about the little -white-headed urchins assembled round the doors, that are quite -anti-Spanish. - -We obtained an excellent dinner at the _Tyroler Adler_, and, in the -afternoon, taking a by-road that struck off from the post route to the -right, cantered through plantations of olives nearly all the way to -Ecija,--four leagues. In the whole of the distance we did not see a drop -of running water, until we arrived on the brow of the hill overlooking -the river Genil. From this spot there is a fine view of the city of -Ecija, situated on the opposite bank. - -The volume of the Genil increases but little between Granada and Ecija; -for its principal feeders, though falling into it below Granada, are -expended in irrigating the _vega_; and the _salados_, on the western -side of the _Serrania de Ronda_, are mostly dry during the summer. In -winter, however, the Genil is so increased, that the bridge at Ecija (a -solid stone structure of eleven arches,) is carried quite across the -valley, although the bed of the river is not above 100 yards wide. - -Ecija is the Astigi of the Romans. It stands on a gentle acclivity, some -little distance from the Genil, and bears evident marks of antiquity. -Almost all traces of its walls have disappeared, however; and what -little remains of its tapia-built castle shows it to have been a work of -the Moors. The principal streets are wide, and contain many good houses; -and the _plaza_ is particularly well worth a visit from the lovers of -the picturesque. - -The city contains sixteen convents, and two hospitals, with churches in -proportion. None of them offers much to interest the protestant -traveller; but, I believe, several boast of possessing valuable relics. -The Royal stud-house is fast going to decay. - -The population of Ecija is estimated at 30,000 souls; a number that -appears totally disproportioned to the size of the city; particularly, -as it contains but a few tanneries, and trifling manufactories of shoes, -saddlery, &c. But, from the extreme fertility of the soil in its -neighbourhood--considered the most productive and best cultivated in -Andalusia--it is very possible this amount may not be exaggerated; for -in Spain the agriculturalists do not scatter themselves about in small -villages and hamlets over its surface, as in other countries, but -assemble together in large towns; so that those places which are -situated in fertile districts are as densely populated as our -manufacturing towns. - -The distance that a Spanish peasant sometimes travels daily, to and from -his work, is truly surprising, in a people that, generally speaking, -like to save themselves trouble. Whilst getting in the harvest, however, -they erect _ranchas_, or rush huts, to shelter them from the midday sun -and night dews, and dwell in these temporary habitations until their -work is completed. - -The crops of corn in the neighbourhood of Ecija are remarkably fine, -yielding forty to one, and though not so tall, perhaps, as those of the -_vega_ of Granada, the grains are larger and better ripened. - -I must not omit to say a good word for the _Posada_,--the -Post-house,--which I do the more willingly from being so seldom called -upon to speak in terms of commendation of Spanish "houses of -entertainment." Suffice it to observe, that, provided the traveller be -very hungry, and moderately fatigued, he may reckon on getting a supper -that he will be able to eat, and a bed whereon--albeit hard--he may -obtain some hours' unmolested repose. - -The remainder of the post road to Seville is so perfectly uninteresting, -that, reserving the Andalusian capital for a future tour, I shall take a -more direct route back to Gibraltar, through the _Serrania_ de Ronda; -merely offering a few remarks on the town of Carmona, which is situated -about two thirds of the way between Ecija and Seville, and referring my -readers to the Itinerary in the Appendix for any further details as to -the distances from place to place along the road. - -Carmona is one of the few Roman towns of Boetica of whose identity -there is scarcely a doubt; its name having undergone little or no -change. It is mentioned by most of the ancient writers, and called by -them, indifferently, Carmo and Carmona, and by Julius Caesar was esteemed -one of the strongest posts in the whole country. Its position, -considered relatively with the adjacent ground, is, indeed, most -commanding; being on the edge of a vast plateau of very elevated land, -which, stretching many miles to the south, falls abruptly along the -course of the river Corbones. - -The Roman name for this river is, I think, doubtful. Florez, and most -antiquaries, suppose it to be the _Silicensis_. Some, and, as it appears -to me, with better reason, give that name to the Badajocillo. Be that as -it may, the Corbones is but an inconsiderable stream, and is now crossed -by a stone bridge of three arches. - -The ascent to Carmona is very steep and tedious. The city is entered -through a triumphal Roman arch, which was repaired and spoilt by order -of Charles III. Another Roman gateway stands at the southern extremity -of the town, by which the road to Seville leaves it; and various parts -of the walls which yet encompass the place are the work of the same -people. The castle, however, is a relique of the Moors, and in a very -ruinous condition. - -This stronghold was wrested from the Moors by San Fernando, after a six -months' investment. It was a favourite place of residence of Peter, -surnamed the Cruel, who, looking upon it as impregnable, left his -children there in fancied security when he took the field for the last -time against his brother. Soon after Peter's death, however, it fell -into the hands of his rival, who, according to some accounts, caused the -children (his nephews) to be put to death in cold blood. - -The streets of Carmona are wide, clean, and well-paved; and the alameda -is enchanting, commanding a superb view of the ruined fortress, and over -the rich vales of the Corbones, and more distant Guadalquivir, and -embracing, at the same time, the whole chain of the Ronda mountains to -the eastward. - -The population of the place is about 10,000 souls. The inn is execrable. - -The post road to Cadiz is directed from Carmona on Alcala de Guadiara, -where a branch to Seville strikes off, nearly at a right angle, to the -east, thereby making a considerable detour. But in summer, carriages -even may proceed to Seville by a cross road, which not only lessens the -dust, but reduces the distance from six _long_ to the same number of -_short_ leagues; or, in other words, effects a saving of about three -miles. - -I now return to Ecija, and take the road from that city to Osuna; which -is tolerably good, and practicable for carriages during the greater part -of the year. The distance is five (very long) leagues. The country -presents a slightly undulated surface, and, excepting round the edges of -some basins wherein extensive lakes have been formed, is altogether -under the plough. At a little distance from the road, on the left hand, -a stream, called _El Salado_, flows towards the Genil. It does not -communicate with these lakes, nor has the name it bears been given from -its being impregnated with salt. - -During our ride, we observed a number of men advancing in skirmishing -order across the country, and thrashing the ground most savagely with -long flails. Curious to know what could be the motive for this -Xerxes-like treatment of the earth, we turned out of the road to inspect -their operations, and found they were driving a swarm of locusts into a -wide piece of linen spread on the ground at some distance before them, -wherein they were made prisoners. These animals are about three times -the size of an English grasshopper. They migrate from Africa, and their -spring visits are very destructive; for in a single night they will -entirely eat up a field of young corn. - -The _Caza de Langostas_[4] is a very profitable business to the -peasantry; as, besides a reward obtained from the proprietor of the soil -in consideration for service done, they sell the produce of their -_chasse_ for manure at so much a sack. - -Osuna is generally admitted to be the Urso,[5] Ursao, and Ursaon, of the -Roman historians; though it agrees in no one particular with the -description given of that place by Hirtius; for it is not by any means -"strong by nature;" it is in the vicinity of extensive -forests--rendering it perfectly absurd to suppose that Caesar's troops -"had to bring wood thither all the way from Munda;"--and, so far from -"there being no rivulet within eight miles of the place,"[6] a fine -stream meanders under its very walls. - -The town is situated at the foot of a hill that screens it effectually -to the eastward, and the summit of which is occupied by an old castle of -considerable strength and size, but now fast crumbling to decay. The -streets are wide and well paved, the houses particularly good;--indeed, -some of the palaces of the provincial nobility (with whom it was -formerly a favourite place of residence) are strikingly handsome; in -particular, that of the Duke who takes his title from the city; and -notwithstanding that the streets are overgrown with grass, and the -houses covered with mildew, I am, nevertheless, disposed to call Osuna -the best built and handsomest city in Andalusia, it contains a -university, fourteen convents, for both sexes, and a population of -16,000 souls; but has little or no trade--in fact, though on the -crossing of two high roads, (viz., from Gibraltar to Madrid, and from -Granada to Seville) it has all the dullness of a secluded country -village. - -The vicinity is very fruitful in olives and corn; the soil is a whitish -clay. To the S.E. the country is tolerably level all the way to -Antequera, and to the west is nearly flat to Seville; but at about a -mile southward from the city, shoot up the entangled roots of the -mountains of Ronda, presenting on that side a belt of very intricate -country. There are two roads to that place, the distance by the better, -which, I think, is also rather the shorter, of the two, is nine leagues. -It leaves Osuna by the gate of Granada, and, crossing the -before-mentioned stream (which is one of the sources of the Corbones), -advances some distance along a wide olive-planted valley. It then quits -the great road to Granada (which continues along the valley), and -ascends a steep and very long hill, from the crest of which, distant -about three miles from Osuna, there is a splendid view of the city, and -of the spacious plains extending to and bordering the distant -Guadalquivir, studded with the towns of Marchena, Fuentes, Palmar, and -Carmona. - -The road continues along the summit of the elevated range of hills which -it has now attained, for about five miles, winding amongst some -singularly mammillated hummocks, that have very much the appearance of -the tumuli left in an exhausted mining country. A succession of strongly -marked and peculiarly rugged ravines present themselves along the -eastern side of the ridge, and the ground falls also very abruptly in -the opposite direction; but to the south, whither the road is directed, -the descent is much more gradual; and from the foot of the hill, which -is bathed by a rivulet wending its way to the Genil, the country is -tolerably level, and the road extremely good the remaining distance to -Saucejo. - -In former days, this route was practicable for carriages throughout, and -with very little labour it might again be made so; but, though the high -road from the capital to Algeciras and Gibraltar, it is but little -travelled. The other road from Osuna to Ronda joins in here on the -right. - -The village of Saucejo is a post station three leagues from Osuna, and -six from Ronda. It contains some eight hundred inhabitants, great -abundance of stabling, but not one decent house. The posada is a -peculiarly unpromising establishment, and the landlady's face such as to -shut out all hope of any sound wine being found within its influence. We -had left Osuna so late in the day, however, that it would have been vain -to attempt reaching Ronda ere nightfall. - -We, therefore, reluctantly took possession of the _sala_, and, -presenting our sour-faced hostess with a rabbit and some partridges that -we had purchased on the road, asked if she could furnish the other -requisites for the concorporation of an _olla_, and whether it would be -possible to let us have our meal ere midnight; to both of which -questions, with sundry consequential nods of the head, she replied -severally, _en casa llena, presto se guisa la cena_.[7] Notwithstanding -this assurance, our supper was long in making its appearance, for the -operations of an _olla_ cannot be hurried. But, when it did come, it -bespoke our landlady to be a _cordon bleu_ of the first class; the -_pimento_[8] had been administered with judgment; the _berza_[9] had -duly extracted the flavour from the rabbit and partridges; the -_chorizo_[10] had imparted but the desirable smack of garlic to the -other ingredients; and the nutty savour of the _tocino_[11] was beyond -all praise. Nor was her wine such as we had expected; though somewhat -too light to have much influence on the digestion of the unctuous mess -placed before us. - -From Saucejo the road again branches into two, one route proceeding by -way of Almargen, the other by the Venta del Granadal. Both are -_reckoned_ six leagues; but the last mentioned is better than the other, -as well as shorter by several miles. It crosses a considerable stream -(here called the Algamitas, but which is, in fact, the main source of -the Corbones) by a ford, about three miles from Saucejo. The descent to -the stream is very bad, and, after keeping along its bank for another -mile, the road mounts to some elevated table land, from which the view -to the westward is obstructed by the rocky peaks of two detached -mountains about a mile off. These may be considered the outposts of the -Serrania in that direction; and, on the rough side of the more -considerable of the two, is the _Hermita de Canos Santos_. - -The country becomes very wild as the road advances, and rugged tors, -partially covered with wood, rise on all sides. At nine miles from -Saucejo is the lone venta of Granadal, and beyond it the mountains rise -to a yet greater height, but their slopes are less abrupt, and are -covered with forests of oak and cork. At twelve miles a track branches -off to the right, proceeding to the little town of Alcala del Valle, -which, though distant only about half a mile, is not visible from the -road. Soon after, a wide valley opens to the view, at the bottom of -which, encased by steep rocky banks, flows the river _Guadalete_. This -river is by some considered the _Lethe_ of the ancients; but, if it be -so, our long-cherished notions of the beauty of the Elysian fields have -been wofully faulty, for the country is rather tame, and the soil stony -and ungrateful. Thus far, however, it answers the description of Virgil, -that you - - "Breathe in ample fields the soft Elysian air." - -The town of Setenil is perched on a crag overhanging the left bank of -the Guadalete, and distant about three miles from the road, which keeps -under the broad summit of the hills forming the northern boundary of -Elysium. The sides of these are partially cultivated, and, from time to -time, a low cottage is met with as the road proceeds; but it soon enters -a cork-forest, and, threading its dark mazes for about four miles, -gradually gains the crest of the chain of hills overlooking the vale of -Ronda to the north, whence a splendid view is obtained of the fertile -basin, its rock-built fortress, and jagged sierras. - -The descent on the southern side of the hills is rather rapid, and, -after proceeding downwards about a mile, the road is joined on the left -by the other route from Saucejo. From hence to Ronda is two short -leagues. The road still continues descending for another mile; and, in -the course of the two following, it crosses three deep ravines, watered -by copious streams, and planted with all sorts of fruit-trees. - -In the bottom of one of these dells is ensconced the village of Arriate. -The last is a deep and very singular rent that extends, east and west, -quite across the basin of Ronda. Immediately after crossing this -fissure, the road begins to ascend the range of hills whereon Ronda is -situated, and, after winding for three miles amongst vineyards, olive -grounds, and corn-fields, enters the city on its north side. - -We were seven hours performing the journey, although the distance is but -six _leguas regulares_. - -I have already given so full a description of Ronda, that I will pass on -without further remark. - -To vary the scenery, and moved by curiosity to visit some of the scenes -of our acquaintance Blas's exploits, we determined to take a somewhat -circuitous route homewards, by way of Grazalema and Ubrique. - -The distance to the first named town is three long leagues. The road -descends gradually to the south-western extremity of the basin of Ronda, -where the Guadiaro, forming its junction with the Rio Verde, enters a -rocky defile, and is lost sight of amidst the roots of the rugged -sierras that spread themselves in all directions towards the -Mediterranean. - -Crossing the last named stream just before its confluence with the -Guadiaro, the road at once begins ascending towards a deeply marked gap, -that breaks the ridge of the mountains which rise along the right bank -of the stream. - -The pass is about four miles from Ronda, and commands a splendid view of -the fruitful valley, which lies, like an outspread _cornucopia_, at its -foot. On the other side, too, the scenery is not less fine, though of a -totally different nature. There a singular double-peaked crag rises up -boldly and darkly on the left hand, casting its shadow on the bright -foliage of an oak forest, which, deep sunk below the rest of the -country, spreads its verdant covering as far to the eastward as where -the huge Sierra Endrinal raises its cloud-enveloped head above all the -other mountains of the range. High seated on the side of this, a white -speck is seen which, in the course of time, proves to be the town of -Grazalema, whither we are bending our steps. - -Proceeding onwards, from the pass about a mile, the little village of -Montejaque shows itself, peeping from between the two peaks of the -mountain on the left, and, seemingly, quite inaccessible, even to a -goat. - -It is inhabited by a horde of half-tamed Saracens, who pride themselves -greatly on having foiled all the attempts of the French to make -themselves masters of the place;[12] and, as this elevated little -village is but three quarters of a mile from the high road, (which is -the principal communication between Malaga and Cadiz) it must have -possessed the means of annoying the enemy considerably. - -For the next two miles our way lay along the spine of a somewhat -elevated ridge; whence we looked down upon the before-mentioned wooded -country on one side, and on the other into a well cultivated valley. -From the bed of this, but at several leagues' distance, the rock-built -town of Zahara rears its embattled head. - -This little fortress is very noted in Moorish history; its capture by -Muley Aben Hassan, during a period of truce, having provoked the renewal -of the war which led to the loss of the crown, not only to himself -first, but to his race afterwards. - -One of the sources of the Guadalete flows in this valley, bathing the -walls of Zahara, which stands on the site of the Roman town of -Lastigi.[13] The present name, I should imagine, (considering the -locality) is derived rather from the Arabic word _Zaharat_ (mountain -top) than _Z[=a]hara_, (flowery) as supposed by Mr. Carter; for the -streets are cut out of the live rock on which the place is built. - -The road to Grazalema, now mounting another step, enters a dark forest, -and, continuing for five miles along the top of a narrow ridge, descends -into a vine-clad valley, that spreads out at the foot of the rough -sierra on the side of which Grazalema is seated. - -The ascent to the town is very bad, and is rendered worse than it -otherwise would be by being paved--for a paved road in Spain is sure to -be neglected. We scrambled up with much difficulty, and alighting at the -posada, remained for an hour or two, to procure some breakfast, and -examine the place. - -It is a singularly built town, the streets being heaped one above -another, like steps; and in several instances they are even worked out -of the native rock. There is, nevertheless, a fine open market-place, -which we found well supplied with fruit, vegetables, and game, including -venison and wild boar; and the town possesses several manufactories of -coarse cloths and serges. - -From its situation, immediately over the mouth of a deep ravine, by -which alone access can be obtained to one of the principal passes in the -Serrania, Grazalema occupies a very important military position, and may -be considered almost inassailable; for, whilst at its back a perfectly -impracticable mountain covers it from attack, it is protected to the -north and east by the precipitous ravine it overlooks; up the side of -which, even the narrow road from Ronda has not been practised without -much labour. The only side, therefore, on which it has to apprehend -danger, is that fronting the pass above it--i.e. to the westward. But it -has the means of offering an obstinate resistance, even in that -direction. - -Commanding, as it thus does, so important a passage over the mountains, -there can be but little doubt that Grazalema stands upon, or near, the -site of some Roman fortress; and, for reasons which I shall hereafter -mention, I feel inclined to place here the town of Ilipa.[14] - -The inhabitants amount to about 6,000, and are a savage, -ruffianly-looking race. During the "War of Independence," assisted by -their brethren of the neighbouring mountain fastnesses, they frequently -rose against their invaders, driving them out of the place; and on one -occasion they repulsed a French column of several thousand men, which -was sent to dispossess them of their stronghold. - -On leaving Grazalema, the road enters the narrow, rock-bound ravine -leading up to the pass, down which a noisy torrent rushes, leaping from -precipice to precipice, and lashing the base of the crag-built town, -whence we had just issued. A newly-built bridge, whose high-crowned arch -places it beyond the anger of the foaming stream, gives a passage to the -road to Zahara, which winds along the eastern face of the Sierra del -Pinar. Our route, however, continues ascending yet a mile and a half -along the right bank of the torrent, ere it reaches the long descried -gap in the mountain chain, the name of which is _El Puerto Bozal_. - -This is considered one of the most elevated passes in the whole Serrania -de Ronda, and must be at least 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. -The mountains on either side rise to a far greater elevation; that on -the right, distinguished by the name of _El Pico de San Cristoval_, is -said (as has already been stated) to have been the first land made by -Columbus on his return from the discovery of the "New World." - -The views from this pass are truly grand. At our backs lay the -beautifully wooded country we had travelled over in the morning--Ronda -and its vale, and the distant sierras of El Burgo and Casarabonela. -Before us, a wild mountain country extended for several miles; and -beyond, spreading as far as the eye could reach, were the vast plains of -Arcos, through which the gladdening Guadalete, winding its way past -Xeres, turns to seek the bay of Cadiz, whose glassy surface the white -walls of its proud mistress, and the deep blue ocean, could be seen -distinctly on the left, though at a distance of more than fifty miles. - -From the Puerto Bozal, a _trocha_, directed straight upon Ubrique, -strikes off to the left; but the saving in point of distance which this -road offers, is counterbalanced by its extreme ruggedness. We, -therefore, took the more circuitous route to that place by El Broque, -which, for the first five miles, is itself sufficiently bad to satisfy -most people. The views along it, looking to the south, are very fine; -but the lofty barren range of San Cristoval, on the side of which it is -conducted, shuts out the prospect in the opposite direction. - -At length, crossing over a narrow tongue that protrudes from the side of -the rugged mountain, we entered a dark, wooded ravine, and began to -descend very rapidly, and, to our astonishment, by a very good road. -After proceeding in this way about a mile, the valley gradually -expanding, we emerged from the wood, and found ourselves in a -sequestered glen of surpassing loveliness. A neat white chapel, with a -picturesque belfry, stood on a sloping green bank on our right hand, -and, scattered in all directions about it, were the trim, vine-clad -cottages of its frequenters, each screened partially from the sun in a -grove of almond, cherry, and orange trees. A crystal stream gurgled -through the fruitful dell, which was bounded at some little distance by -high wooded hills and rocky cliffs. - -This secluded retreat is called _La Huerta[15] de Benamajama_,--the -peculiarly guttural name proving it to have been a little earthly -paradise of the Moors. - -The road, which had thus far been nearly west, here, continuing along -the course of the little river Posadas, turns to the south; and, keeping -under a range of wooded hills on the left hand, in about an hour reaches -El Broque. This portion of the road is very good, and from it, looking -over the great plain bordering the Guadalete, may be seen the lofty -tower of _Pajarete_, perched on a conical mound, at about a league's -distance. The justly celebrated sweet wine called by this name was -originally produced from the vineyards in its vicinity, but it is now -made principally at Xeres. - -El Broque is a small clean town, abounding in wood and water, and -containing from 1500 to 2000 inhabitants. To the east it is overshadowed -by a range of lofty, wooded hills, which may be considered the last -buttresses of the Serrania; for the road to Cadiz, which here branches -off to the right, crossing the Posadas, traverses an uninterrupted plain -all the way to Arcos. - -The route to Ubrique, on the other hand, again strikes into the -mountains; though, for yet two miles further, it follows the course of -the little river and its impending sierra. Arrived, however, at the -mouth of a ravine, which brings down another mountain-torrent to the -plain, it turns to the north, keeping along the margin of the stream, -until the bridge of Tavira offers the means of passage; when, crossing -to the opposite bank, it once more enters the intricate belt of -mountains. - -The name of the stream which is here crossed is the Majaceite; and on -its right bank, close to the bridge, is a solitary venta. The scenery is -extremely beautiful. The mountains of Grazalema, which we had traversed -in the morning, form the background; the ruined tower of Alamada, -perched on an isolated knoll, stands boldly forward in middle distance; -and close at hand are the rough, coppiced banks and crystal current of -the winding Majaceite. - -From hence to Ubrique the country is very wild and rugged. The town is -first seen (when about a league off) from the summit of a round-topped -hill, six miles from El Broque. It is nestled in the bottom of a deep -valley, hemmed in by singularly rugged mountains. The first part of the -descent is gradual, but a steep neck of land must be crossed ere -reaching the town; and, as if to render the approach as difficult as -possible, the road over this mound has been paved. - -Amongst the rude masses of sierra that encompass Ubrique, numerous -rivulets pierce their way to the lowly valley, where, collected in two -streams, they are conducted to the town, and, fertilizing the ground in -its neighbourhood, cause it to be encircled by a belt of most luxuriant -vegetation. The mountains in the vicinity abound also in lead-mines, but -they are no longer worked. "Where are we to find money? Where are we to -look for security?" were the answers given to _my_ question, "Why not?" - -The streets of Ubrique are wide, clean, and well paved; the houses lofty -and good; but the inn, alas! affords the wearied traveller little more -than bare walls and a wooden floor. The population of the place may be -estimated at 8000 souls. It contains some tanneries, water-mills, and -manufactories of hats and coarse cloths. It does not strike me as being -a likely site for a Roman city. - -We were on horseback by daybreak, having before us a long ride, and, for -the first five leagues (to Ximena), a very difficult country to -traverse. For about a mile the road is paved, and confined to the vale -in which Ubrique stands by a precipitous mountain. But, the westernmost -point of this ridge turned, the route to Ximena (leaving a road to -Alcala de los Gazules on the right) takes a more southerly direction -than heretofore, and, entering a hilly country, soon dwindles into a -mere mule-track. Ere proceeding far in this direction, another road -branches off to Cortes, winding up towards some cragged eminences that -serrate the mountain-chain on the left. The path to Ximena, however, -continues yet two miles further across the comparatively undulated -country below, which thus far is under cultivation; but, on gaining the -summit of a hill, distant about four miles from Ubrique, a complete -change takes place in the face of the country; the view opening upon a -wide expanse of forest, furrowed by numerous deep ravines, and studded -with rugged tors. - -The road through this overshadowed labyrinth is continually mounting and -descending the slippery banks of the countless torrents that intersect -it, twisting and winding in every direction; and, on gaining the heart -of the forest, the path is crossed and cut up by such numbers of -timber-tracks, and is screened from the sun's cheering rays by so -impervious a covering, that the difficulty of choosing a path amongst -the many which presented themselves was yet further increased by that of -determining the point of the compass towards which they were -respectively directed. - -The guide we had brought with us, though pretending to be thoroughly -acquainted with every pathway in the forest, was evidently as much at a -_nonplus_ as we ourselves were; and his muttered _malditos_ and -_carajos_, like the rolling of distant thunder, announced the coming of -a storm. At length it burst forth: the track he had selected, after -various windings, led only to the stump of a venerable oak. Never was -mortal in a more towering passion; he snatched his hat from his head, -threw it on the ground, and stamped upon it, swearing by, or at--for we -could hardly distinguish which--all the saints in the calendar. After -enjoying this scene for some time, we spread ourselves in different -directions in search of the beaten track; and, at last, a swineherd, -attracted by our calls to each other, came to our deliverance; and our -guide, after bestowing sundry _malditos_ upon the wood, the torrents, -the timber-tracks, and those who made them, resumed his wonted state of -composure, assuring us, that there was some accursed hobgoblin in this -_hi-de-puta_ forest, who took delight in leading good Catholics astray; -that during the war an entire regiment, misled by some such -_malhechor_,[16] had been obliged to bivouac there for the night, to the -great detriment of his very Catholic Majesty's service. - -Soon after this little adventure we reached a solitary house, called the -_Venta de Montera_, which is something more than half way between -Ubrique and Ximena; _i.e._ eleven miles from the former, and nine from -the latter. A little way beyond this the road reaches an elevated chain -of hills, that separates the rivers Sogarganta and Guadiaro; the summit -of which being rather a succession of peaks than a continuous ridge, -occasions the track to be conducted sometimes along the edge of one -valley, sometimes of the other. The mountain falls very ruggedly to the -first-named river, but in one magnificent sweep to the Guadiaro. - -The views on both sides are extremely fine; that on the left hand -embraces Gibraltar's cloud-wrapped peaks, the mirror-like Mediterranean, -Spain's prison-fortress of Ceuta, and the blue mountains of Mauritania; -the other looks over the silvery current of the Sogarganta, winding -amidst the roots of a peculiarly wild and wooded country, and towards -the rock-built little fortress of Castellar. - -The road continues winding along this elevated heather-clad ridge for -four miles, and then descends by rapid zig-zags towards Ximena. - -The town lies crouching under the shelter of a rocky ledge, that, -detached from the rest of the sierra, and crowned with the ruined towers -of an ancient castle, forms a bold and very picturesque feature in the -view, looking southward. The town is nearly a mile in length, and -consists principally of two long narrow streets, one extending from -north to south quite through it, the other leading up to the castle. The -rest of the _callejones_[17] are disposed in steps up the steep side of -the impending hill, and can be reached only on foot. - -The old castle--in great part Roman, but the superstructure Moorish--is -accessible only on the side of the town (east), and in former days must -have been almost impregnable. The narrow-ridged ledge whereon it stands -has been levelled, as far as was practicable, to give capacity to this -citadel, which is 400 yards in length, and varies in breadth from 50 to -80. It rises gently, so as to form two hummocks at its extremities; and -the narrowest part of the inclosure being towards the centre, it has -very much the form of a calabash. - -A strongly built circular tower, mounting artillery, and enclosed by an -irregular loop-holed work of some strength, occupies the southern peak -of the ridge; and a fort of more modern structure, but feeble profile, -covers that in which it terminates to the north. An irregularly indented -wall, or in some places scarped rock, connects these two retrenched -works along the eastern side of the ridge; but, in the opposite -direction, the cliff falls precipitously to the river Sogarganta; -rendering any artificial defences, beyond a slight parapet wall, quite -superfluous. - -Numerous vaulted tanks and magazines afforded security to the ammunition -and provisions of the isolated little citadel; but they are now in a -wretched state, as well as the outworks generally; for the fortress was -partially blown up by Ballasteros, (A.D. 1811) upon his abandoning it, -on the approach of the French, to seek a surer protection under the guns -of Gibraltar. - -In exploring the ruined tanks of this old Moorish fortress, chance -directed our footsteps to an unfrequented spot where some smugglers were -in treaty with a revenue _guarda_, touching the amount of bribe to be -given for his connivance at the entry of sundry mule loads of contraband -goods into the town on the following night. - -We did not pry so curiously into the proceedings of the contracting -parties, as to ascertain the precise sum demanded by this faithful -servant of the crown for the purchase of his acquiescence to the -proposed arrangement, but, from the elevated shoulders, outstretched -arms, and down-stretched mouth, of one of the negociators, it was -evident that the demand was considered unconscionable; and the roguish -countenance of the custom-house shark as clearly expressed in reply, -"But do you count for nothing the sacrifice of principle I make?" - -From the ruined ramparts of Fort Ballasteros (the name by which the -northern retrenched work of the fortress is distinguished) the view -looking south is remarkably fine. The keep of the ancient castle, -enclosed by its comparatively modern outworks, and occupying the extreme -point of the narrow rocky ledge whereon we were perched, stands boldly -out from the adjacent mountains; whilst, deep sunk below, the tortuous -Sogarganta may be traced for miles, wending its way towards the -Almoraima forest. Above this rise the two remarkable headlands of -Gibraltar and Ceuta; the glassy waterline between them marking the -separation of Europe and Africa. - -That Ximena was once a place of importance there can be no doubt, since -it gave the title of King to Abou Melic, son of the Emperor of Fez; and -that it was a Roman station (though the name is lost,) is likewise -sufficiently proved, as well by the walls of the castle, as by various -inscriptions which have been discovered in the vicinity. At the present -day, it is a poor and inconsiderable town, whose inhabitants, amounting -to about 8000, are chiefly employed in smuggling and agriculture. - -On issuing from the town, the road to Gibraltar crosses the Sogarganta, -having on its left bank, and directly under the precipitous southern -cliff of the castle rock, the ruins of an immense building, erected some -sixty years back, for the purpose of casting shot for the siege of -Gibraltar! - -The distance from Ximena to the English fortress is 25 miles. The road -was, in times past, practicable for carriages throughout; and even now -is tolerably good, though the bridges are not in a state to drive over. -It is conducted along the right bank of the Sogarganta; at six miles, is -joined by a road that winds down from the little town of Castellar on -the right; and, at eight, enters the Almoraima forest by the "Lion's -Mouth," of which mention has already been made. The river, repelled by -the steep brakes of the forest, winds away to the eastward to seek the -Guadiaro and Genil. - -Here I will take a temporary leave of my readers, to seek a night's -lodging at a cottage in the neighbourhood, which, being frequented by -some friends and myself in the shooting season, we knew could furnish us -with clean beds and a _gazpacho_. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - DEPARTURE FOR CADIZ--ROAD ROUND THE BAY OF - GIBRALTAR--ALGECIRAS--SANDY BAY--GUALMESI--TARIFA--ITS - FOUNDATION--ERROR OF MARIANA IN SUPPOSING IT TO BE CARTEIA--BATTLE - OF EL SALADO--MISTAKE OF LA MARTINIERE CONCERNING IT--ITINERARY OF - ANTONINUS FROM CARTEIA TO GADES VERIFIED--CONTINUATION OF - JOURNEY--VENTAS OF TAVILLA AND RETIN--VEJER--CONIL--SPANISH METHOD - OF EXTRACTING GOOD FROM EVIL--TUNNY FISHERY--BARROSA--FIELD OF - BATTLE--CHICLANA--ROAD TO CADIZ--PUENTE ZUAZO--SAN FERNANDO--TEMPLE - OF HERCULES--CASTLE OF SANTI PETRI--ITS IMPORTANCE TO CADIZ. - - -Hoping that the taste of my readers, like my own, leads them to prefer -the motion of a horse to that of a ship, the chance of being robbed to -that of being sea-sick, and the savoury smell of an _olla_ to the greasy -odour of a steam engine, I purpose in my next excursion to conduct them -to Cadiz by the rude pathway practised along the rocky shore of the -Straits of Gibraltar, and thence, "_inter aestuaria Baetis_," to Seville, -instead of proceeding to those places by the more rapid and now -generally adopted means of fire and water. From the last named "fair -city" we will return homewards by another passage through the mountains -of Ronda. - -To authorise _me_--a mere scribbler of notes and journals--to assume the -plural _we_, that gives a Delphic importance to one's opinions (but -under whose shelter I gladly seek to avoid the charge of egotism), I -must state that a friend bore me company on this occasion; our two -servants, with well stuffed saddle-bags and _alforjas_, "bringing up the -rear." - -Proceeding along the margin of the bay of Gibraltar, leaving -successively behind us the ruins of Fort St. Philip, which a few years -since gave security to the right flank of the lines drawn across the -Isthmus in front of the British fortress; the crumbling tower of -_Cartagena_, or _Recadillo_, which, during the seven centuries of Moslem -sway, served as an _atalaya_, or beacon, to convey intelligence along -the coast between Algeciras and Malaga; and, lastly, the scattered -fragments of the yet more ancient city of Carteia, we arrive at the -river Guadaranque. - -The stream is so deep as to render a ferry-boat necessary. That in use -is of a most uncouth kind, and so low waisted that "Almanzor," who was -ever prone to gad amongst the Spanish lady Rosinantes, could not be -deterred from showing his gallantry to some that were collected on the -opposite side of the river, by leaping "clean out" of the boat before it -was half way over. Fortunately, we had passed the deepest part of the -stream, so that I escaped with a foot-bath only. - -The road keeps close to the shore for about a mile and a half, when it -reaches the river Palmones, which is crossed by a similarly -ill-contrived ferry. From hence to Algeciras is three miles, the first -along the sea-beach, the remainder by a carriage-road, conducted some -little distance inland to avoid the various rugged promontories which -now begin to indent the coast, and to dash back in angry foam the -hitherto gently received caresses of the flowing tide. - -The total distance from Gibraltar to Algeciras, following the sea-shore, -is nine English miles; but straight across the bay it is barely five. - -Algeciras, supposed to be the Tingentera of the ancients, and by some -the Julia Traducta of the Romans, received its present name from the -Moors--_Al chazira_, the island. In the days of the Moslem domination, -it became a place of great strength and importance; and when the power -of the Moors of Spain began to wane, was one of the towns ceded to the -Emperor of Fez, to form a kingdom for his son, Abou Melic, in the hope -of presenting a barrier that would check the alarming progress of the -Christian arms. From that time it became a constant object of -contention, and endured many sieges. The most memorable was in 1342-4, -during which cannon were first brought into use by its defenders. It, -nevertheless, fell to the irresistible Alfonso XI., after a siege of -twenty months. - -At that period, the town stood on the right bank of the little river -Miel (instead of on the left, as at present), where traces of its walls -are yet to be seen; but its fortifications having shortly afterwards -been razed to the ground by the Moors, the place fell to decay, and the -present town was built so late as in 1760. It is unprotected by walls, -but is sheltered from attack on the sea-side by a rocky little island, -distant 800 yards from the shore. This island is crowned with batteries -of heavy ordnance, and has, on more occasions than one, been found an -"ugly customer" to deal with. The anchorage is to the north of the -island, and directly in front of the town. - -The streets of Algeciras are wide and regularly built, remarkably well -paved, and lined with good houses; but it is a sun-burnt place, without -a tree to shelter, or a drain to purify it. Being the port of -communication between Spain and her _presidario_, Ceuta, as well as the -military seat of government of the _Campo de Gibraltar_, it is a place -of some bustle, and carries on a thriving trade, by means of _felucas_ -and other small craft, with the British fortress. The population may be -reckoned at 8,000 souls, exclusive of a garrison of from twelve to -fifteen hundred men. - -The Spaniards call the rock of Gibraltar _el cuerpo muerto_,[18] from -its resemblance to a corpse; and, viewed from Algeciras, it certainly -does look something like a human figure laid upon its back, the -northernmost pinnacle forming the head, the swelling ridge between that -and the signal tower, the chest and belly, and the point occupied by -O'Hara's tower the bend of the knees. - -The direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz crosses the most elevated pass -in the wooded mountains that rise at the back of the town, and, from its -excessive asperity, is called "_The Trocha_," the word itself signifying -a _bad_ mountain road. The distance by this route is sixty-two miles; by -Tarifa it is about a league more, and this latter road is not much -better than the other, though over a far lower tract of country. - -On quitting the town, the road, having crossed the river Miel, and -passed over the site of "Old Algeciras," situated on its right bank, -edges away from the coast, and, in about a mile, reaches a hill, whence -an old tower is seen standing on a rocky promontory; which, jutting some -considerable distance into the sea, forms the northern boundary of a -deep and well sheltered bay. The Spanish name for this bight is _La -Ensenada de Getares_; but by us, on account of the high beach of white -sand that edges it, it is called "Sandy bay." It strikes me this must be -the _Portus albus_ of Antoninus's Itinerary, since its distance from -Carteia corresponds exactly with that therein specified, and renders the -rest of the route to Gades _intelligible_, which, otherwise, it -certainly is not. But more of this hereafter. - -Within two miles of Algeciras the road crosses two mountain torrents, -the latter of which, called _El Rio Picaro_[19] (I presume from its -occasional _treacherous_ rise), discharges itself into the bay of -Getares. Thenceforth, the track becomes more rugged, and ascends towards -a pass, (_El puerto del Cabrito_) which connects the _Sierra Santa Ana_ -on the right with a range of hills that, rising to the south, and -closing the view in that direction, shoots its gnarled roots into the -Straits of Gibraltar. - -The views from the pass are very fine--that to the eastward, looking -over the lake-like Mediterranean and towards the snowy sierras of -Granada; the other, down upon the rough features of the Spanish shore, -and towards the yet more rugged mountains of Africa; the still distant -Atlantic stretching away to the left. The former view is shut out -immediately on crossing the ridge: but the other, undergoing pleasing -varieties as one proceeds, continues very fine all the way to Tarifa. - -The road is now very bad, being conducted across the numerous rough -ramifications of the mountains on the right hand, midway between their -summits and the sea. At about seven miles from Algeciras it reaches the -secluded valley of Gualmesi, or Guadalmesi, celebrated for the -crystaline clearness of its springs, and the high flavour of its -oranges; and, crossing the stream, whence the romantic dell takes its -name, directs itself towards the sea-shore, continuing along it the rest -of the way to Tarifa; which place is distant twelve miles from -Algeciras. - -The stratification of the rocks along this coast is very remarkable: the -flat shelving ledges that border it running so regularly in parallel -lines, nearly east and west, as to have all the appearance of artificial -moles for sheltering vessels. It is on the contrary, however, an -extremely dangerous shore to approach. - -The old Moorish battlements of Tarifa abut against the rocky cliff that -bounds the coast; stretching thence to the westward, along, but about 50 -yards from, the sea. It is not necessary, therefore, to enter the -fortress; indeed, one makes a considerable detour in doing so; but -curiosity will naturally lead all Englishmen--who have the -opportunity--to visit the walls so gallantly defended by a handful of -their countrymen during the late war; and those who cannot do so may not -object to read a somewhat minute description of them. - -The town closes the mouth of a valley, bound by two long but slightly -marked moles, protruded from a mountain range some miles distant to the -north; the easternmost of which terminates abruptly along the sea-shore. -The walls extend partly up both these hills; but not far enough to save -the town from being looked into, and completely commanded, within a very -short distance. Their general lines form a quadrangular figure, about -600 yards square; but a kind of horn work projects from the N.E. angle, -furnishing the only good flanking fire that the fortress can boast of -along its north front. Every where else the walls, which are only four -feet and a half thick, are flanked by square towers, themselves hardly -solid enough to bear the _weight_ of artillery, much less its blows. - -At the S.W. angle, but within the enceinte of the fortress, and looking -seawards, there is a small castle, or citadel, the _alcazar_ of its -Moorish governors; and immediately under its machicoulated battlements -is one of the three gateways of the town. The two others are towards the -centre of its western and northern fronts. - -In the attack of 1811, the French made their approaches against the -north front of the town, and effected a breach towards its centre, in -the very lowest part of the bed of the valley; thus most completely -"taking the bull by the horns;" (and Tarifa bulls are not to be trifled -with--as every Spanish _picador_ knows,) since the approach to it was -swept by the fire of the projecting _horn_-work I have before mentioned. - -When the breach was repaired, a marble tablet was inserted in the wall, -bearing a modest inscription in Latin, which states that "this part of -the wall, destroyed by the besieging French, was re-built by the British -defenders in November, 1813." - -When the French again attacked the fortress, in 1823, profiting by past -experience, they established their breaching batteries in a large -convent, distant about 200 yards from the walls on the west front of the -town; and, favouring their assault by a feigned attack on the gate in -its south wall, they carried the place with scarcely any loss. - -The streets of Tarifa are narrow, dark, and crooked; and, excepting that -they are clean, are in every respect Moorish. The inhabitants are rude -in speech and manners, and amount to about 8000. - -From the S.E. salient angle of the town, a sandy isthmus juts about a -thousand yards into the sea, and is connected by a narrow artificial -causeway with a rocky peninsula, or island, as it is more generally -termed, that stretches yet 700 or 800 yards further into the Straits of -Gibraltar. This is the most southerly point of Europe, being in latitude -30 deg. 0' 56", which is nearly six miles to the south of Europa Point. - -The island is of a circular form, and towards the sea is merely defended -by three open batteries, armed _en barbette_; but to the land side, it -presents a bastioned front, that sweeps the causeway with a most -formidable fire. A lighthouse stands at the extreme point of the island, -which also contains a casemated barrack for troops, and some remarkable -old tanks, perhaps of a date much prior to the arrival of the Saracens. - -The foundation of the town of Tarifa is usually ascribed to Tarik Aben -Zaide, the first Mohammedan invader of Spain; who probably, previous to -crossing the Straits, had marked the island as offering a favourable -landing-place, as well as a secure depot for his stores, and a safe -refuge in the event of a repulse. Mariana, however, imagined, that -Tartessus, or Carteia--which he considered the same place--stood upon -this spot; and, under this persuasion, he speaks of the admiral of the -Pompeian faction retiring there, after his action with Caesar's fleet, -and drawing a chain across the mouth of the port to protect his -vessels; a circumstance which alone proves that Carteia was not Tarifa; -since it must be evident to any one who has examined the coast -attentively, that no port could possibly have existed there, which could -have afforded shelter to a large fleet, and been closed by drawing a -chain across its mouth. - -Others, again, suppose Tarifa to occupy the site of Mellaria. But I -rather incline to the opinion of those who consider it doubtful whether -_any_ Roman town stood upon the spot; an opinion for which I think I -shall hereafter be able to assign sufficient reason. - -As Tarifa was the field wherein the Mohammedan invaders of Spain -obtained their first success, so, six centuries after, did it become the -scene of one of their most humiliating defeats; the battle of the -_Salado_, gained A.D. 1340, by Alphonso XI., of Castile, having -inflicted a blow upon them, from the effects of which they never -recovered. Four crowned heads were engaged in that sanguinary -conflict--the King of Portugal, as the ally of the Castillian hero; -Jusuf, King of Granada; and Abu Jacoob, Emperor of Morocco. The -last-named, according to the Spanish historians, had crossed over from -Africa, with an army of nearly half a million of men, to avenge the -death of his son, Abou Melic; killed the preceding year at the battle of -Arcos. - -The little river, which gave its name to that important battle gained by -the Christian army on its banks, winds through a plain to the westward -of Tarifa, crossing the road to Cadiz, at about two miles from the -town.[20] The valley is about three miles across, and extends a -considerable distance inland. It is watered by several mountain streams -that fall into the Salado. That rivulet is the last which is met with, -and is crossed by a long wooden bridge on five stone piers. - -The term _Salado_ is of very common occurrence amongst the names of the -rivers of the south of Spain; though in most cases it is used rather as -a term signifying a _water-course_, than as the name of the rivulet: -thus _El Salado de Moron_ is a stream issuing from the mountains in the -vicinity of the town of Moron; _El Salado de Porcuna_ is a torrent that -washes the walls of Porcuna; and so with the rest. As, however, the word -in Spanish signifies salt, (used adjectively) it has led to many -mistakes, and occasioned much perplexity in determining the course of -the river _Salsus_, mentioned so frequently by Hirtius; but to which, in -point of fact, the word _Salado_ has no reference whatever, being -applied to numerous streams that are perfectly free from salt. - -On the other hand, it might naturally be supposed that the word _Salido_ -(the past participle of the verb _Salir_, to issue) would have been used -if intended to signify a source or stream issuing from the mountains. - -It seems to me, therefore, that the word _Salado_ must be a derivation -from the Arabic _S[=a]l_, a water-course in a valley; which, differing -so little in sound from _Salido_, continued to be used after the -expulsion of the Moors; until at length, its derivation being lost, it -came to be considered as signifying what the word actually means in -Spanish, viz. impregnated with salt. - -At the western extremity of the plain, watered by the _Salado de -Tarifa_, a barren Sierra terminates precipitously along the coast, -leaving but a narrow space between its foot and the sea, for the passage -of the road to Cadiz. Under shelter of the eastern side of this Sierra, -standing in the plain, but closing the little Thermopylae, I think we may -place the Roman town of Mellaria,[21] eighteen miles from Carteia, and -six from Belone Claudia, according to the Itinerary of Antoninus; and -mentioned by Strabo as a place famous for curing fish. - -Tarifa, which, as I have said before, is supposed by some authors to be -on the site of Mellaria, is in the first place rather too near Calpe -Carteia to accord with that supposition; and in the next, it is far too -distant from Belon; the site of which is well established by numerous -ruins visible to this day, at a _despoblado_,[22] called Bolonia. - -It may be objected, on the other hand, that the position which I suppose -Mellaria to have occupied, is as much too far removed from Carteia, as -Tarifa is too near it: and following the present road, it certainly is -so. But there is no reason to take for granted that the ancient military -way followed this line; on the contrary, as the Romans rather preferred -straight to circuitous roads, we may suppose that, as soon as the nature -of the country admitted of it, they carried their road away from the -coast, to avoid the promontory running into the sea at Tarifa. Now, an -opportunity for them to do this presented itself on arriving at the -valley of Gualmesi, from whence a road might very well have been carried -direct to the spot that I assign for the position of Mellaria; which -road, by saving two miles of the circuitous route by Tarifa, would fix -Mellaria at the prescribed distance from Carteia, and also bring it -(very nearly) within the number of miles from Belon, specified in the -Roman Itinerary, viz. six; whereas, if Mellaria stood where Tarifa now -does, the distance would be nearly _ten_. - -The city of Belon appears to have slipped bodily from the side of the -mountain on which it was built (probably the result of an earthquake), -as its ruins may be distinctly seen when the tide is out and the water -calm, stretching some distance into the Atlantic. Vestiges of an -aqueduct may also be traced for nearly a league along the coast, by -means of which the town was supplied with water from a spring that rises -near Cape Palomo, the southernmost point of the same Sierra under which -Belon was situated. - -In following out the Itinerary of Antoninus--according to which the -total distance from Calpe to Gades is made seventy-six miles[23]--the -next place mentioned after Belon Claudia is Besippone, distant twelve -miles. This place, it appears to me, must have stood on the coast a -little way beyond the river Barbate; and not at Vejer, (which is several -miles inland) as some have supposed; for the distance from the ruins of -Bolonia to that town far exceeds that specified in the Itinerary. - -Vejer (or Beger, as it is indifferently written) may probably be where a -Roman town called Besaro stood, of which Besippo was the port; the -latter only having been noticed in the Itinerary from it being situated -on the direct military route from Carteia to Gades; the former by -Pliny,[24] as being a place of importance within the _Conventus -Gaditani_. - -From Besippone to Mergablo--the next station of the Itinerary--is six -miles; and at that distance from the spot where I suppose the first of -those places to have stood, there is a very ancient tower on the sea -side, (to the westward of Cape Trafalgar) from which an old, apparently -Roman, paved road, now serving no purpose whatever, leads for several -miles into the country. From this tower to Cadiz--crossing the Santi -Petri river _at its mouth_--the distance exceeds but little twenty-four -miles; the number given in the Itinerary. - -The distances I have thus laid down agree pretty well throughout with -those marked on the Roman military way; which, it may be supposed, were -not _very exactly_ measured, since the fractions of miles have in every -case been omitted. The only objection which can be urged to my -measurements is, that they make the Roman miles too long. Having, -however, taken the Olympic stadium (in this instance) as my standard, of -which there are but 600 to a degree of the Meridian, or seventy-five -Roman miles; and as my measurements, even with it, are still rather -_short_, the reply is very simple, viz. that the adoption of any -_smaller_ scale would but _increase the error_. - -From the spot where I suppose Mellaria to have stood--which is marked by -a little chapel standing on a detached pinnacle of the _Sierra de -Enmedio_, overhanging the sea--the distance to the Rio Baqueros is two -miles; the road keeping along a flat and narrow strip of land, between -the foot of the mountain and the sea. - -The coast now trends to the south west, a high wooded mountain, -distinguished by the name of the Sierra de _San Mateo_, stretching some -way into the sea, and forming the steep sandy cape of _Paloma_, a league -on the western side of which are the ruins of Belon. - -The road to Cadiz, however, leaves the sea-shore to seek a more level -country, and, inclining slightly to the north, keeping up the _Val de -Baqueros_ for five miles, reaches a pass between the mountains of San -Mateo and Enmedio. - -The valley is very wild and beautiful. Laurustinus, arbutus, oleander, -and rhododendron are scattered profusely over the bed of the torrent -that rushes down it; and the bounding mountains are richly clothed with -forest trees. - -From the pass an extensive view is obtained of the wide plain of Vejer, -and _laguna de la Janda_ in its centre. Descending for two miles and a -half,--the double-peaked Sierra _de la Plata_ being now on the left -hand, and that of _Fachenas_, studded with water-mills, on the -right--the road reaches the eastern extremity of the above-named plain, -where the direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz falls in, and that of -Medina Sidonia branches off to the right. The Cadiz route here inclines -again to the westward, and, in three miles, reaches the _Venta de -Tavilla_. - -From hence two roads present themselves for continuing the journey; one -proceeding along the edge of the plain; the other keeping to the left, -and making a slight detour by the _Sierra de Retin_; and when the plain -is flooded, it is necessary to take this latter route. Let those who -find themselves in this predicament avoid making the solitary hovel, -called the _Venta de Retin_, their resting-place for the night, as I was -once obliged to do; for, unless they are partial to a guard bed, and to -go to it supperless, they will not meet with accommodation and -entertainment to their liking. - -We will return, however, to the _Venta de Tabilla_, which is a fraction -of a degree better than that of Retin. From thence the distance to Vejer -is fourteen miles. The first two pass over a gently swelling country, -planted with corn; the next six along the low wooded hills bordering the -_laguna de la Janda_; the remainder over a hilly, and partially wooded -tract, whence the sea is again visible at some miles distance on the -left. - -In winter the greater part of the plain of Vejer is covered with water, -there being no outlet for the _Laguna_; which, besides being the -reservoir for all the rain that falls on the surrounding hills, is fed -by several considerable streams. - -A project to drain the lake was entertained some years ago; but, like -all other Spanish projects, it failed, after an abortive trial. In its -present state, therefore, the whole surface of the plain is available -only for pasture; and numerous herds are subsisted on it. The gentle -slopes bounding it, being secure from inundation, are planted with corn. - -Vejer is situated on the northern extremity of a bare mountain ridge, -that stretches inland from the coast about five miles, and terminates in -a stupendous precipice along the right bank of the river Barbate. -Towards the sea, however, it slopes more gradually, forming the forked -headland, for ever celebrated in history, called Cape Trafalgar. - -When arrived within half a mile of the lofty cliff whereon the town -stands, the road enters a narrow gorge, by which the Barbate escapes to -the ocean; this part of its course offering a remarkable contrast to the -rest, which is through an extensive flat. - -A stone bridge of three curiously constructed arches, said to be Roman, -gives a passage over the stream; and a venta is situated on the right -bank, immediately under the town; the houses of which may be seen edging -the precipice, at a height of five or six hundred feet above the river. - -The road to Cadiz, and consequently all others,--it being the most -southerly,--avoids the ascent to Vejer, which is very steep, and so -circuitous as to occupy fully half an hour. But the place is well worth -a visit, if only for the sake of the view from the church steeple, which -is very extensive and beautiful; and taken altogether, it is a much -better town than could be expected, considering its truly out-of-the-way -situation. That it was a Roman station, its position alone sufficiently -proves; but whether it be the Besaro, or Belippo, or even Besippo of -Pliny, seems doubtful. - -It occupies a tolerably level space; though bounded on three sides by -precipices, and is consequently still a very defensible post, -notwithstanding its walls are all destroyed. The streets are narrow, but -clean and well paved; and the place contains many good houses, and -several large convents. The inns, however, are such wretched places, -that on one occasion, when I passed a night there, I had to seek a -resting-place in a private house. - -The Barbate is navigable for large barges up to the bridge; but the -difficulty of access to the town prevents its carrying on much trade. -The population amounts to about 6,000 souls. - -There is a delightful walk down a wooded ravine on the western side of -the town, by which the road to Cadiz and the valley of the Barbate may -be regained quicker than by retracing our footsteps to the Venta. Of -this latter I feel bound to say--after much experience--that there is -not a better halting-place between Cadiz and Gibraltar; albeit, many -stories are told of robberies committed even within its very walls. Let -the traveller take care, therefore, to show his pistols to mine host, -and to lock his bedroom door. - -We resumed our journey with the dawn. The road keeps for nearly a mile -along the narrow, flat strip between the bank of the river, and the high -cliff whereon the town is perched. The gorge then terminates, and an -open country permits the roads to the different neighbouring places to -branch off in their respective directions. From hence to Medina Sidonia -is thirteen miles; to Alcala de los Gazules, twenty; and to -Chiclana--whither we were bound--fifteen;--but, leaving these three -roads on the right, we proceeded by a rather more circuitous route to -the last mentioned place, by Conil and Barrosa. - -The distance from Vejer to Conil is nine miles; the country undulated -and uninteresting. Conil is a large fishing town, containing a swarming -population of 8,000 souls. The smell of the houses where the tunny fish -(here taken in great abundance) are cut up and cured, extends inland for -several miles; but the inhabitants consider it very wholesome; and to my -animadversive remarks on the filth and effluvium of the place itself, -answer was made, "_no hay epidemia aqui_;"[25]--quite a sufficient -excuse, according to their ideas, for submitting to live the life of -hogs. - -We arrived just as the fishermen had enclosed a shoal of Tunny with -their nets; so, putting up our horses, we waited to see the result of -their labours. The whole process is very interesting. The Tunny can be -discovered when at a very considerable distance from the land; as they -arrive in immense shoals, and cause a ripple on the surface of the -water, like that occasioned by a light puff of wind on a calm day. Men -are, therefore, stationed in the different watch towers along the coast, -to look out for them, and, immediately on perceiving a shoal, they make -signals to the fishermen, indicating the direction, distance, &c. Boats -are forthwith put to sea, and the fish are surrounded with a net of -immense size, but very fine texture, which is gradually hauled towards -the shore. - -The tunny, coming in contact with this net, become alarmed, and make off -from it in the only direction left open to them. The boats follow, and -draw the net in, until the space in which the fish are confined is -sufficiently small to allow a second net, of great strength, to -circumscribe the first; which is then withdrawn. The tunny, although -very powerful, (being nearly the size and very much the shape of a -porpoise) have thus far been very quiet, seeking only to escape under -the net; and have hardly been perceptible to the spectators on the -beach. But, on drawing in the new net, and getting into shallow water, -their danger gives them the courage of despair, and furious are their -struggles to escape from their hempen prison. - -The scene now becomes very animated. When the draught is heavy--as it -was in this instance--and there is a possibility of the net being -injured, and of the fish escaping if it be drawn at once to land, the -fishermen arm themselves with harpoons, or stakes, having iron hooks at -the end, and rush into the sea whilst the net is yet a considerable -distance from the shore, surrounding it, and shouting with all their -might to frighten the fish into shallow water, when they become -comparatively powerless. - -In completing the investment of their prey, some of the fishermen are -obliged even to swim to the outer extremity of the net, where, holding -on by the floats with one hand, they strike, with singular dexterity, -such fish as approach the edge, in the hope of effecting their escape, -with a short harpoon held in the other. The men in the boats, at the -same time, keep up a continual splashing with their oars, to deter the -tunny from attempting to leap over the hempen enclosure; which, -nevertheless, many succeed in doing, amidst volleys of "_Carajos!_" - -The fish are thus killed in the water, and then drawn in triumph on -shore. They are allowed to bleed very freely; and the entrails, roes, -livers, and eyes, are immediately cut out, being perquisites of -different authorities. - -The flesh is salted, and exported in great quantities to Catalonia, -Valencia, and the northern provinces of the kingdom. A small quantity of -oil is extracted from the bones. - -Some years since, the Duke of Medina Sidonia enjoyed the monopoly of the -tunny fishery on this part of the coast, which was calculated to have -given him a yearly profit of L4000 sterling. But, at the time of my -visit, he had been deprived of this privilege, much to the regret of the -inhabitants of Conil; for the nets and salting-houses, being the -property of the duke, had to be hired, and as there were no capitalists -in the place able to embark in so expensive a speculation as the -purchase of others, the "company" that engaged in the fishery was, -necessarily, composed of strangers to Conil, whose only object was to -obtain the greatest possible profit during the short period for which -they held the duke's property on lease. They, consequently, drove the -hardest bargain they could with the poor inhabitants, who, accustomed -all their lives to this employment, could not turn their hands to any -other, and were forced to submit. - -I do not mean to defend monopolies in general, but what I have stated -shows, that in the present state of Spain they are almost unavoidable -evils. The inhabitants of Conil, at all events, complained most bitterly -of the change. - -The fishery lasts from March to July, and the season of which I write -(then drawing to a close,) was considered a very successful one, 1300 -tunny having been taken at Conil, and 1600 at Barrosa. Each fish is -worth ten dollars, or two pounds sterling. The falling off has, however, -been most extraordinary, as in former days we read of 70,000 fish having -been taken annually. - -From Conil the road keeps along the coast for twelve miles, to Barrosa, -a spot occupying a distinguished place in the pages of history, but -marked only by an old tower on the coast, and a small building, called a -_vigia_, or watch-house, situated on a knoll that rises slightly above -the general level of the country. This was the great object of -contention on the celebrated 5th March, 1811. - -Never, perhaps, were British soldiers placed under greater disadvantages -than on this glorious day, through the incapacity or pusillanimity, or -both, of the Spanish general who commanded in chief. And though far more -important victories have been gained by them, yet the cool bearing and -determined courage that shone forth so conspicuously on this occasion, -by completely removing the erroneous impression under which their -opponents laboured, as to the fitness of Englishmen for soldiers, -produced, perhaps, better effects than might have attended a victory -gained on a larger scale, under _more favourable_ circumstances. - -I have met with Spaniards who absolutely shed tears when speaking of -this battle, in which they considered our troops had been so shamefully -abandoned by their countrymen, or rather by the general who led them. -Nor is it surprising that the English character should stand so high as -it does in this part of the Peninsula, when, within the short space of a -day's ride, three such names as Tarifa, Trafalgar, and Barrosa, are -successively brought to recollection. - -The walls of the watch-house of Barrosa still bear the marks of mortal -strife, and the hill on which it stands is even yet strewed with the -bleached bones of the horses which fell there; but so slight is the -command the knoll possesses--indeed in so unimportant, pinched-up a -corner of the coast is it situated--that those who are not aware of the -unaccountable events which led to the battle, may well be surprised at -its having been chosen as a military position. - -Striking into the pine-forest, which bounds the field of battle to the -west, we arrived in about half an hour at the bridge and mill of -Almanza, and proceeding onwards, in four miles reached Chiclana; first -winding round the base of a conical knoll, surmounted by a chapel -dedicated to _Santa Ana_. - -Chiclana is the Highgate of the good citizens of Cadiz, and contains -many "genteel family residences," adapted for summer visiters; but the -place is disgracefully dirty, so that little benefit can be expected -from _change of air_. The gardens in its vicinage offer agreeable -promenades, however; and there is a fine view from the chapel of _Santa -Ana_, whence may be seen - - "Fair Cadiz, rising o'er the dark blue sea." - -Chiclana contains a population of about 6000 souls, and boasts of -possessing a tolerably good _posada_, whereat _calesas_, and other -vehicles, may be hired to proceed to the neighbouring towns; the roads -to all, even the direct one to Vejer, being open to wheel carriages. - -A rivulet bathes the north side of the town, dividing it from a large -suburb, and flowing on to the Santi Petri river. The Cadiz road, -crossing this stream by a long wooden bridge, proceeds for three miles -and a half (in company with the routes to _Puerto Santa Maria_, _Puerto -Real_, and _Xeres_,)[26] along a raised causeway, which keeps it above -the saltpans and marshes that render the _Isla de Leon_ so difficult of -approach. Arrived at a wide stream, a ferry-boat affords the means of -passage; and, on gaining the southern bank, the great road from Cadiz to -Madrid (passing through the towns above mentioned) presents itself. - -Taking the direction of Cadiz, our passports were immediately demanded -at the entrance of a fortified post, called the _Portazgo_,[27] the -first advanced redoubt of the multiplied defences of the _Isla de Leon_. -From thence the road is conducted, for nearly a mile, through bogs and -saltpans, as before, to the _Puente Zuazo_, a bridge over the river -_Santi Petri_, or _San Pedro_. This, by the way, is rather an arm of the -sea than a river, since it communicates between the bay of Cadiz and the -ocean, and forms the _Isla_ (island) _de Leon_, which otherwise would be -an isthmus. The channel is very wide, deep, and muddy; the bridge has -five arches, and was built by a Doctor _Juan Sanchez de Zuazo_ (whence -its name), on the foundation of one that existed in the days of the -Romans, and is supposed to have served as an aqueduct to supply Cadiz -with water from the _Sierra de Xeres_. It is protected by a double tete -de pont; and has one arch cut, and its parapets pierced with embrasures, -to enable artillery to fire down the stream. - -Soon after reaching the right bank of the San Pedro, the long straggling -town of the Isla, or, more properly, _San Fernando_, commences. The main -street is upwards of a mile in length, wide, and rather handsome. The -population of this place is estimated at 30,000 souls; but it varies -considerably, according to the date of the last visitation of yellow -fever. - -At the southern extremity of the city a low range of hills begins, which -stretches for a mile and a half towards the sea. The causeway to Cadiz, -however, is directed straight upon the _Torre Gorda_, standing upon the -shore more to the westward, and three miles distant from the town of -_San Fernando_. - -Here commences the narrow sandy isthmus that connects the point of land -on which Cadiz is built with the _Isla_. It is five miles long, and in -some places so narrow, that the waves of the Atlantic on one side, and -those of the bay of Cadiz on the other, reach the walls of the causeway. -About half way between the _Torre Gorda_ and Cadiz, the isthmus is cut -across by a fort called the _Cortadura_, beyond which it becomes much -wider. - -At five miles to the eastward of the _Torre Gorda_, or Tower of -Hercules, as it is also called, is the mouth of the Santi Petri river, -and four miles only beyond it is the _Vigia de Barrosa_; so that the -distance from thence to Cadiz is almost doubled by making the detour by -Chiclana. It is more than probable, therefore, that the Romans had a -military post, commanding a _flying bridge_, at the mouth of the river; -for, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, the coast-road from _Calpe_ to -_Gades_ was not directed from _Mergablo_ "_ad pontem_," as in the route -laid down from _Gades_ to _Hispalis_ (Seville), but "_ad -Herculem_;"--that is, it may be presumed, to the temple of Hercules,[28] -situated, according to common tradition, on a part of the coast near the -mouth of the Santi Petri river, over which the waves of the Atlantic now -roll unobstructed; and the supposed site of which temple is the same -distance from Cadiz as the bridge of Zuazo, thereby agreeing with the -Roman Itineraries. - -At the distance of 1200 yards from the river's mouth a rocky islet rises -from the sea, bearing on its scarped sides the inapproachable little -castle of _Santi Petri_, the bleached walls of which are said to have -been built from the ruins of the famed temple of Hercules. - -Contemptible as this isolated fortress appears to be, as well from its -size as from any thing that art has done for it, the fate of Cadiz, -nevertheless, depends in a great measure upon its preservation; since, -from the command the castle possesses of the entrance of the river, an -enemy, who may gain possession of it, is enabled to force the passage of -the stream under its protecting fire, and take in reverse all the -defenses of the _Isla de Leon_. Cadiz would thereby be reduced to its -own resources; and strong as Cadiz is, yet, like all fortresses defended -only by art, it must eventually fall. - -The surrender of the castle of _Santi Petri_ to the French, in the siege -of 1823, occasioned the immediate fall of Cadiz, its defenders seeing -that further resistance would be unavailing; whereas, the capture of the -_Trocadero_, about which so much was thought, did little towards the -reduction of the place. Indeed, the _Trocadero_ was in possession of the -enemy during the whole period of the former siege, 1810-12. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - CADIZ--ITS FOUNDATION--VARIOUS NAMES--PAST PROSPERITY--MADE A FREE - PORT IN THE HOPE OF RUINING THE TRADE OF GIBRALTAR--UNJUST - RESTRICTIONS ON THE COMMERCE OF THE BRITISH FORTRESS--DESCRIPTION - OF CADIZ--ITS VAUNTED AGREMENS--SOCIETY--MONOTONOUS - LIFE--CATHEDRAL--ADMIRABLY BUILT SEA WALL--NAVAL ARSENAL OF LA - CARRACA--ROAD TO XERES--PUERTO REAL--PUERTO DE SANTA - MARIA--XERES--ITS FILTH--WINE STORES--METHOD OF PREPARING - WINE--DOUBTS OF THE ANCIENT AND DERIVATION OF THE PRESENT NAME OF - XERES--CARTHUSIAN CONVENT--GUADALETE--BATTLE OF XERES. - - -The date of the foundation of Cadiz is lost in the impenetrable chaos of -heathen mythology. One of the numerous conquerors, distinguished by the -general name of Hercules, who, in early ages, carried their victorious -arms to the remotest extremities of Europe, appears to have erected a -temple at the westernmost point of the rocky ledge on which Cadiz now -stands; and round this temple, doubtless, a town gradually sprung up. -But the place came only to be known and distinguished by the name -_Gadira_, when the commercial enterprise of the Phoenicians led them -to make a settlement on this defensible island; and the foundation of -the temple dedicated to Hercules, which Strabo describes as situated at -the eastern extremity of the same island, "where it is separated from -the continent by a strait only about a stadium in width," is ascribed to -Pygmalion, nearly nine centuries before the Christian era. - -Gadira, or Gades, to which the name now became corrupted, was the first -town of Spain forcibly occupied by the Carthagenians, who, throwing off -the mask of friendship, took possession of it about the year B.C. 240. -It was the last place that afforded them a refuge in the war which -shortly followed with the Romans, into whose hands it fell, B.C. 203. -From the Romans it afterwards received the name of Augusta Julia, -probably from its adherence to the cause of Caesar, who restored to the -temple of Hercules the treasures of which it had been plundered during -the civil wars that had previously distracted the country. But its old -name, altered apparently to its present orthography by the Moors, seems -always to have prevailed. - -Under the Moslems, Cadiz does not appear to have enjoyed any very great -consideration; and it was wrested from them without difficulty by San -Fernando, soon after the capture of Seville. - -On the discovery of America, Cadiz became, next to Seville (which was -endowed with peculiar privileges), the richest city of Spain. Its -imports at that time amounted annually to eleven millions sterling. But -since the loss of the American colonies, its prosperity has been rapidly -declining; and some years back, when the intestine troubles of Spain -rendered it impossible for her to afford protection to her commerce, the -trade of Cadiz may be said to have ceased. - -A _fillip_ was, however, given to its commerce, for it would be absurd -to call it an attempt to restore it--about nine years since, by making -it a free port. But this apparently liberal act, not having been -accompanied by any reduction of the duties imposed on foreign produce -introduced for consumption into the country, was merely a disgraceful -contrivance on the part of the king and his ministers to obtain money. - -On the promulgation of the edict constituting Cadiz a free port, it -became at once an entrepot for the produce of all nations; the goods -brought to it being subjected only to a trifling charge for landing, &c. -The proceeds of this pitiful tax went to the coffers of the -municipality, which had paid the king handsomely for the "act of grace" -bestowed upon the city; and no source of revenue was opened to the -public treasury by the grant of this special privilege, since the goods -landed at Cadiz could only be carried into the interior of the country -on payment of duties that amounted to an absolute prohibition of them, -and they were, consequently, introduced surreptitiously by bribing the -city authorities and custom-house officers; who, in their turn, paid -large sums for their respective situations to the ministers of the -crown! - -Such is the way in which the commercial concerns of Spain are conducted. -The whole affair was, in fact, a temporary expedient to raise money by -selling Cadiz permission to smuggle. At the same time, the Spanish -government--by offering foreign merchants a mart which, at first sight, -seemed more conveniently situated for disposing of their goods than -Gibraltar--hoped to give a death-blow to the commerce of the British -fortress, which it had found to thrive, in spite of all the iniquitous -restrictions imposed upon it; such, for instance, as the exaction of -duties on goods shipped from thence, double in amount to those levied on -the _same articles_, if brought from the ports of France and Italy; the -depriving even Spanish vessels, if coming from, or touching at, -Gibraltar, of all advantages in regard to the rate of duty otherwise -granted to the national flag;[29] and various other abuses, to which it -is astonishing the British government has so long quietly submitted. - -The scheme, however, though successful for a time against Gibraltar, did -no permanent good to Cadiz; and the trade of the place has relapsed into -its former sickly state. - -"Cadiz! sweet Cadiz," has been so extolled by modern authors, that I am -almost afraid to say what I think of it. It strikes me, that the very -favourable impression it usually makes on my countrymen is owing to its -being, in most cases, the first place they see after leaving England; -or, perchance, the first place they have seen out of England; to whose -gloomy brick-built towns its bright houses and battlements offer as -agreeable a contrast, as the picturesque costume of its inhabitants does -to the ill-cut garments of the natives of our island. - -Under any circumstances, however, the first impression made by Cadiz is -favourable, unless you enter by the fish-market. The streets are -straight, tolerably well lighted, and remarkably well paved, many of -them having even the convenience of a _trottoir_. There is one handsome -square, and the houses, generally, are lofty, and those which are -inhabited are clean. But many are falling rapidly to decay, from the -diminished population and prosperity of the place. - -On the other hand, the city does not contain one handsome public -building; and, if one leaves the principal thoroughfares, its boasted -cleanliness and "sweetness" turn out to be mere poetical delusions. In -fact, the vaunted _agremens_ of the city to me were undiscoverable. -There is but one road to ride upon, one promenade to walk upon, one -sheet of water to boat upon. The Alameda, on which much hyperbolical -praise has been bestowed, is a dusty gravel walk, extending about half a -mile along the ramparts. It is lined--not shaded--with stunted trees, -and commands a fine view of the marsh-environed bay when the tide is in, -and a disagreeable effluvium from it when the tide is out; and, I must -say, that I never could perceive any more "harmony and fascination" in -the movements of the pavonizing _gaditanas_ who frequent it, than in -those of the fair promenaders of other Spanish towns. The _Plaza de San -Antonio_ is a square, situated in the heart of the city, which, paved -with large flag-stones, and lighted with lamps, may be considered a kind -of treadmill, that fashion has condemned her votaries to take an hour's -exercise in after the fatigues of the day. - -The society of Cadiz is now but second rate; for it is no longer -inhabited as in bygone days, when the nobility from all parts of the -kingdom sought shelter behind its walls. At the Tertulias of the first -circle, gaming is the principal pastime, and I have been given to -understand that the play is very high. The public amusements are few. -There is a tolerable theatre, where Italian Operas are sometimes -performed; but, for the great national diversion, the bull-fight, the -inhabitants have to cross the bay to Puerto Santa Maria. - -In fine, for one whose time is not fully occupied by business, I know of -few _less_ agreeable places of residence than Cadiz. The transient -visiter, who prolongs his stay beyond two days, will find time hang very -heavy on his hands; for having, in that short space, seen all the place -contains, he will be driven to wile away the tedious hours after the -usual manner of its inhabitants, viz., by devoting the morning to the -_cafes_ and billiard-rooms, the afternoon to the _siesta_, evening to -the Alameda, dusk to the Plaza San Antonio and its _Neverias_,[30] and -night to the Tertulias--for such is the life of a Spanish _man of -pleasure_! - -The hospitable mansion of the British Consul General affords those who -have the good fortune to possess his acquaintance a happy relief from -this monotonous and wearisome life; and, besides meeting there the best -society the place affords, the lovers of the fine arts will derive much -gratification from the inspection of Mr. Brackenbury's picture gallery, -which contains many choice paintings of Murillo, and the best Spanish -Masters. - -What few other good paintings Cadiz possesses are scattered amongst -private houses. The churches contain none of any merit. In one of the -Franciscan convents, however, is to be seen a painting that excites much -interest, as being the last which occupied the pencil of Murillo, though -it was not finished by him. Our conductor told me that a most -distinguished English nobleman had offered 500 guineas for it, but the -pious monks refused to sell it to a heretic!--Perhaps, His Grace did not -know before on what _conscientious_ grounds his liberal offer had been -declined. - -The old Cathedral is not worth visiting. The new one, as it is called, -was commenced in the days of the city's prosperity; but the source from -whence the funds for building it were raised, failed ere it was half -finished; and there it stands, a perfect emblem of Spain herself!--a -pile of the most valuable materials, planned on a scale of excessive -magnificence, but put together without the slightest taste, and falling -to decay for want of revenue![31] - -The walls of the city--excepting those of its land front, which are -remarkably well constructed, and kept in tolerable order--are in a -deplorable state of dilapidation, and in some places the sea has -undermined, and made such breaches in them, as even to threaten the -very existence of the city, should it be exposed to a tempest similar to -that which did so much mischief to it some seventy years since. This -decay is particularly observable, too, on the south side of the -fortress, where the sea-wall is exposed to the full sweep of the -Atlantic; and here the mischief has resulted chiefly from the want of -timely attention to its repairs, for the wall itself is a perfect -masterpiece of the building art. Regarding it as such, I venture to -devote a small space to its description, conceiving that a hint may be -advantageously taken therefrom in the future construction of piers, -wharfs, &c. in our own country; and I am the more induced to do so, -since so small a portion of the work remains in its pristine state, that -it already must be spoken of rather as a thing that _has been_, than one -which _is_. - -The great object of the builder was to secure the foundation of his wall -from the assaults of the ocean, which, at times, breaks with excessive -violence upon this coast. For this purpose, he formed an artificial -beach, by clearing away the loose rocks which lay strewed about, and -inserting in the space thus prepared and levelled, a strong wooden -frame-work formed of cases dovetailed into and well fastened to each -other. These cases were filled with stones, and secured by numerous -piles. The surface was composed of beams of wood, placed close -together, carefully caulked, and laid so as to form an inclined plane, -at an angle of eight degrees and a half with the horizon. - -This beach extended twenty-seven yards from the sea-wall; and its foot, -by resting against a kind of breakwater formed of large stones, was -saved from being exposed, vertically, to the action of the sea. The -waves, thus broke upon the artificial beach, and running up its smooth -surface without meeting the slightest resistance, expended, in a great -measure, their strength ere reaching the foot of the wall. - -To avoid, however, the shock which would still have been felt by the -waves breaking against the ramparts, (especially when the sea was -unusually agitated) had the planes of the beach and wall met at an -angle, the upper portion of the surface of the artificial beach--for -about fifteen feet--was laid with large blocks of stone, and united in a -curve, or inverted arch, with the casing of the walls of the rampart; -and the waves being, by this means, conducted upwards, without -experiencing a check, spent their remaining strength in the air, and -fell back upon the wooden beach in a harmless shower of spray. - -So well was the work executed, that many portions of the arch which -connected the beach with the scarped masonry of the rampart are yet -perfect, and may be seen projecting from the face of the wall, about -twenty feet above its foundation; although the beach upon which it -rested has been entirely swept away. - -Another cause, besides neglect, has contributed greatly to the -destruction of this work; namely, the injudicious removal of the stones -and ledges of rock which formed the breakwater of the beach, for -erecting houses and repairing the walls of the city. - -The ride round the ramparts would be an agreeable variety to the -_eternal paseo_ on the _Camino de Ercoles_,[32] but for the insufferable -odours that arise from the vast heaps of filth deposited on one part of -it. To such an extent has this nuisance reached, that, without another -river Alpheus, even the hard-working son of Jupiter (the city's reputed -founder) would find its removal no easy task. - -The arsenal of the _Carracas_ is situated on the northern bank of the -Santi Petri river, about half a mile within the mouth by which that -channel communicates with the bay of Cadiz, and at a distance of two -leagues from the city, to which it has no access by land. Its plan is -laid on a magnificent scale, and it may boast of having equipped some of -the most formidable armaments that ever put to sea; but it is now one -vast ruin, hardly possessing the means of fitting out a cockboat. A -fire, that reduced the greater part of it to ashes some five and thirty -years since, furnishes the national vanity with an agreeable excuse for -its present condition. - -The road from Cadiz to Port St. Mary's is very circuitous, and offers -little to interest any persons but military men and salt-refiners. I -will, therefore, pass rapidly over it--which its condition enables me to -do--merely observing that, from the branching off of the Chaussee to -Chiclana at the _Portazgo_, it makes a wide sweep round the salt marshes -at the head of the bay of Cadiz, to gain _Puerto Real_ (eighteen miles -from Cadiz); and then leaving the peninsula of the _Trocadero_ on the -left, in four miles reaches a long wooden bridge over the -Guadalete--here called the river San Pedro. Two miles further on it -crosses another stream by a similar means; and this second river, which -is connected with the Guadalete by a canal, has become the principal -channel of communication between Xeres and the bay of Cadiz. - -A road now turns off to the right to Xeres; another, on the left, to -Puerto Santa Maria; and that which continues straight on proceeds to San -Lucar, on the Guadalquivir. - -Puerto Real is a large but decayed town, possessing but little -trade,[33] and no manufactories. Its environs, however, are -fertile--enabling it to contend with Port St. Mary's in supplying the -Cadiz market with fruit and vegetables;--and a good crop of hay might -even be taken from its streets after the autumnal rains!--The population -is estimated at 12,000 souls. - -Puerto Santa Maria is a yet larger town than Puerto Real, and is -computed to contain 18,000 inhabitants. It is situated within the mouth -and extending along the right bank of the river, into which the -Guadalete has been partly turned. The entrance to the harbour is -obstructed by a sand bank, which is impassable at low tide; and at -times, when the wind is strong from the S. W., this bar interrupts -altogether the water communication with Cadiz.[34] - -The distance between the two places, across the bay, is but five miles; -by the causeway, twenty-four. - -The main street of Puerto Santa Maria is of great length, wide, and -rather handsome; and the place has, altogether, a very thriving look; -for which it is indebted, as well to the great share it enjoys of the -Xeres wine trade,[35] as to the fruitfulness of its fields and orchards. -The country, to some considerable extent round the town, is perfectly -flat; and the soil (a dark alluvial deposit,) is rich, and highly -cultivated; it is, in fact, the market-garden of Cadiz, the inhabitants -of which place would die of scurvy, if cut off for six months from the -lemon-groves of Port St. Mary. - -The position of Puerto Santa Maria seems to correspond pretty well with -that of the Portus Gaditanus of Antoninus, viz., 14 miles from the -Puente Zuazo, (_Pons_;) the difference being only that between English -and Roman miles. But, besides that there is every appearance of the -Guadalete having altered its course, and consequently swept away all -traces of the Roman port, (or yet more ancient one of _Menesthes_, -according to Strabo,) a fertile soil is, of all things, the most -inimical to the _preservation_ of _ruins_; for gardeners will have no -respect for old stones when they stand in the way of cabbage-plants. It -would, therefore, be vain to look for any vestiges of the ancient town, -in the vicinity of the modern one. - -To proceed to Xeres, we must retrace our steps, along the chaussee to -Cadiz, for about a mile; when, leaving the two roads branching off to -Puerto Real and San Lucar on the right and left, our way continues -straight on, traverses a cultivated plain for another mile, and then -ascends a rather steep ridge, distinguished in this flat country by the -name of _Sierra de Xeres_, though scarcely 500 feet high. - -The view from the summit of this ridge is, nevertheless, remarkably -fine. It embraces the whole extent of the bay of Cadiz; the bright towns -which stand upon its margin; the curiously intersected country that cuts -them off from each other; and the winding courses of the Guadalete and -Santi Petri. - -The slope of the hill is very gradual on the side facing Xeres, and the -view is tame in comparison with that in the opposite direction. The -road, which traverses a country covered with corn and olives, is -_carriageable_ throughout; but there is a better route, which turns the -Sierra to the eastward, keeping nearer the marshes of the Guadalete. The -distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Xeres, by the direct road, is nine -miles; by the post route, ten. - -Xeres is situated in the lap of two rounded hillocks, which shelter it -to the east and west; and it covers a considerable extent of ground. The -city, properly so called, is embraced by an old crenated Moorish wall, -which, though enclosing a labyrinth of narrow, ill-built, and worse -drained streets, is of no great circuit, and is so intermixed with the -houses of the suburbs, as to be visible only here and there. The limits -of the ancient town are well defined, however, by the numerous gateways -still standing, and which, from the augmented size of the place, appear -to be scattered about it without any object. Some of the old buildings -and narrow streets are very sketchy, and the number of gables and -chimneys cannot fail to strike one who has been long accustomed to the -flat-roofed cities of Andalusia. - -The principal merchants of the place reside mostly in the suburbs; -where, besides having greater space for their necessarily extensive -premises, their wine stores are better situated for ventilation; a very -important auxiliary in bringing the juice of the grape to a due state of -perfection. The numerous clean and lofty stores, interspersed with -commodious and well-built houses, gardens, greenhouses, &c., give the -suburbs an agreeable, refreshing appearance. But it is needful to walk -the streets with nose in air, and eyes fixed on things above; for, -though much wider, and consequently more freely exposed to the action of -the sun and air, than those of the circumvallated city, they are yet -more filthy, and quite as nauseating. Now and then, indeed, a generous -brown sherry odour salutes the third sense, counteracting, in some -degree, the unwholesome effects of the noxious cloacal miasms. But the -bad scents prevail in the proportion of ten to one; and, like the -far-famed distilling city of Cologne, Xeres seems to have bottled up, -and hermetically sealed, all its sweets for exportation. - -The population of the place is enormous--being estimated at no less -than 50,000 souls. But the amount is subject to great variations, -dependant on the recentness of the last endemic fever, generated in its -pestiferous gutters. The inhabitants are all, more or less, connected -with the wine trade--which is the only thing thought of or talked of in -the place. - -The store-houses are all above ground. They are immense buildings, -having lofty roofs supported on arches, springing from rows of slender -columns; and their walls are pierced with numerous windows, to admit of -a thorough circulation of air. Some are so large as to be capable of -containing 4000 butts, and are cool, even in the most sultry weather. -The exhalations are, nevertheless, rather _overcoming_, even unaided by -the numerous _samples_, of which one is tempted to make trial. The -number of butts annually made, or, more correctly speaking, _collected_, -at Xeres, amounts to 30,000. Of this number, one half is exported to -England, and includes the produce of nearly all the choicest vineyards -of Xeres; for, in selecting their wines for shipment, the Xeres houses -carefully avoid mixing their first-growth wines with those of lighter -quality, collected from the vineyards of Moguer, San Lucar, and Puerto -Real; or even with such as are produced on their own inferior grounds. - -The remaining 15,000 butts are in part consumed in the country; where a -light wine, having what is called a _Manzanilla_[36] flavour, is -preferred--or sold to the shippers from other places, where they are -generally mixed with inferior wines. - -The total number of butts shipped, annually, from the different ports -round the bay of Cadiz, may be taken at the following average-- - - From Xeres 15,000 almost all to England. - " Puerto Santa Maria 12,000 chiefly to England and the - United States. - { principally to the Habana, - " Chiclana 3,000{ the Ports of Mexico, and - " Puerto Real 500{ Buenos Ayres. - ------- - Total 30,500 - ------- - -But, besides the above, a prodigious quantity of wine finds its way to -England from Moguer and San Lucar, which one never hears of but under -the common denomination of Sherry. - -Most of the principal merchants are growers, as well as venders of wine; -which, with foreign houses, renders it necessary that one partner of the -firm, at least, should be a Roman Catholic; for "_heretics_" cannot hold -lands in Spain. Those who are growers have a decided advantage over such -as merely make up wines; for the latter are liable to have the produce -of the inferior vineyards of San Lucar, Moguer, and other places, mixed -up by the grower of whom they purchase. All Sherries, however, are -_manufactured_; for, it would be almost as difficult to get an unmixed -butt of wine from a Xeres merchant, as a direct answer from a quaker. -But there is no concealment in this mixing process; and it is even quite -necessary, in order to keep up the stock of old wines, which, otherwise, -would soon be consumed. - -These are kept in huge casks--not much inferior in size to the great ton -of Heidelberg--called "_Madre_"[37] butts; and some of these old ladies -contain wine that is 120 years of age. It must, however, be confessed, -that the plan adopted in keeping them up, partakes somewhat of the -nature of "_une imposture delicate_;" since, whenever a gallon of wine -is taken from the 120 year old butt, it is replaced by a like quantity -from the next in seniority, and so on with the rest; so that even the -very oldest wines in the store are daily undergoing a mixing process. - -It is thus perfectly idle, when a customer writes for a "ten-year old" -butt of sherry, to expect to receive a wine which was grown that number -of years previously. He will get a most excellent wine, however, which -will, probably, be prepared for him in the following -manner:--Three-fourths of the butt will consist of a three or four year -old wine, to which a few gallons of _Pajarete_, or _Amontillado_,[38] -will be added, to give the particular flavour or colour required; and -the remainder will be made up of various proportions of old wines, of -different vintages: a dash of brandy being added, to preserve it from -sea-sickness during the voyage. - -To calculate the age of this mixture appears, at first sight, to involve -a laborious arithmetical operation. But it is very simply done, by -striking an average in the following manner:--The _fond_, we will -suppose, is a four-years' old wine, with which figure we must, -therefore, commence our calculations. To flavour and give age to this -foundation, the hundred and twenty years' old "_madre_" is made to -contribute a gallon, which, being about the hundreth part of the -proposed butt, diffuses a year's maturity into the composition. The -centiginarian stock-butt next furnishes a quantity, which in the same -way adds another year to its age. The next in seniority supplies a -proportion equivalent to a space of two years; and a fourth adds a -similar period to its existence. So that, without going further, we have -4+1+1+2+2=10, as clear as the sun at noon-day, or a demonstration in -Euclid. - -This may appear very like "_bishoping_," or putting marks in a horse's -mouth to conceal his real age. But the intention, _in the case of the -wine_, is by no means fraudulent, but simply to distribute more equally -the good things of this life, by furnishing the public with an excellent -composition, which is within the reach of many; for, if this were not -done, the consequence would be, that the Xeres merchant would have a -small quantity of wine in his stores, which, from its extreme age, would -be so valuable, that few persons would be found to purchase it, and a -large stock of inferior wines, which would be driven out of the market -by the produce of other countries. - -The quality of the wine depends, therefore, upon the quantity and age of -the various _madre_ butts from which it has been flavoured; and the -taste is varied from dry to sweet, and the colour from pale to brown, by -the greater or less admixture of _Pajarete_, _Amontillado_, and _boiled_ -sherry. I do not think that the custom of adding boiled wine obtains -generally, for it is a very expensive method of giving age. It is, -however, a very effectual mode, and one that is considered equivalent to -a voyage across the Atlantic, at the very least. - -I have heard of an extensive manufacturer (not of wine) in our own -country, who had rather improved on this plan of giving premature old -age to his wines. He called one of the steam-engines of his factory -_Bencoolen_, and another _Mobile_; and, slinging his butts of Sherry and -Madeira to the great levers of the machinery, gave them the benefit of a -ship's motion, as well as a tropical temperature, without their quitting -his premises; and, after a certain number of weeks' oscillation, he -passed them off as "East and West India _particular_." - -The sweet wines of Xeres are, perhaps, the finest in the world. That -known as _Pajarete_ is the most abundantly made, but the _Pedro Ximenes_ -is of superior flavour. There is also a sweet wine flavoured with -cherries, which is very delicious. - -The light dry Sherries are also very pleasant in their pure state, but -they require to be mixed with brandy and other wines, to keep long, or -to ship for the foreign market. Those, therefore, who purchase _cheap -Sherry_ in England may be assured that it has become a _light_ wine -since its departure from Spain. - -The number of _winehouses_ at Xeres is quite extraordinary. Of these, as -many, I think, as five-and-twenty export almost exclusively to England. -The merchants are extremely hospitable; they live in very good style, -and are particularly choice of the wines that appear at their tables. - -The Spanish antiquaries have by no means settled to their satisfaction -what Roman city stood on the site of modern Xeres. The common opinion -seems to be, that it occupies the place of _Asta Regia_, mentioned by -Pliny as one of the towns within the marshes of the Guadalquivir. -Florez, however, labours to prove that it agrees better with _Asido_. -But I do not think his arguments get over the difficulty arising from -the expression "_in mediterraneo_," applied to that city; which agrees -better with _Medina Sidonia_ than Xeres, the latter being close upon the -flats of the Guadalquivir, whereas the other is decidedly _inland_ with -reference to them. - -The medals of Asido, Florez describes as having sometimes a bull, and at -others a "fish of the _tunny_ kind," upon them. Now this latter emblem -is, most certainly, more applicable to Medina Sidonia than Xeres, since -no fish of the "tunny kind" ever could have frequented the shallow muddy -stream of the Guadalete. And though the city of Medina Sidonia is -situated on the summit of a high hill, sixteen miles from the sea, yet -we may take it for granted that its jurisdiction extended as far as the -coast, to the eastward of the Isla de Leon; since it does not appear -that any town of note intervened between Cadiz and Besaro, or Besippone. - -The same author derives the name Xeres from the Persian _Zeiraz_ -(Schiras); supposing it may have been so called from that having been -the country of the Moslem chief who captured Regia. - -The word assimilates with our mode of pronouncing the name of the -existing town; and the wine of Schiraz was not less esteemed of old -amongst the easterns, than Sherry is now by us, and appears ever to have -been by the ancients; for tradition ascribes to Bacchus the foundation -of Nebrissa, in the vicinity of Xeres. May not, therefore, the celebrity -of its vineyards have led the Arabs to call the town Schiraz, or Xeres, -rather than the country of the chief who conquered it? - -Xeres was captured from the Moors by San Fernando, and, becoming -thenceforth one of the bulwarks of the Christian frontier, changed its -name from _Xeres Sidonia_ to _Xeres de la Frontera_, by which it -continues to be distinguished from others. - -The Guadalete does not approach within a mile and a half of Xeres. This -river is the Chryssus of the Romans; and the Spaniards, ever prone to -boast of the ancient celebrity of their country, maintain it to be the -mythological Lethe of yet more remote times. On its right bank (about -three miles on the road to Medina Sidonia) stands a Carthusian convent -of some note. The pious founders of this edifice--as indeed was their -wont--located themselves in a most enviable situation. The "_elisios -xerexanos prados_" were spread out before them, covered with fat beeves, -and herds of high caste horses, belonging to the order. The perfume of -the surrounding orange-groves penetrated to the innermost recesses of -this house of prayer and penance. The juice of the luscious grape, and -the oil of the purple olives that grew upon the sunny bank whereon it -stands, found their way, with as little obstruction, into its cells and -cellars. But still, with this Canaan in their possession, these austere -disciples of St. Bruno affected to despise the things of this world, and -held not communion with their fellow-creatures! - -The edifice is fast falling to decay; the brotherhood is reduced to a -score of decrepit old men; and--what alone is to be regretted--the -celebrated breed of horses has become extinct. - -The Guadalete winds through the valley overlooked by the _Cartuja_,[39] -and is crossed by a stone bridge of five arches. On gaining the southern -bank of the river, roads branch off in all directions. That to the -left--keeping up the valley--proceeds to Paterna (sixteen miles from -Xeres), and _Alcala de los Gazules_ (twenty-five miles). Another, -continuing straight on, goes to Medina Sidonia (eighteen miles); and a -third, that presents itself to the right, is directed across the country -to Chiclana, reducing the distance to that place from twenty-six miles -(by the post-road) to sixteen. - -About four miles below the bridge are some store-houses, a wharf, and -ferry, called _El Portal_, from whence the river is navigable to Port -St. Mary's. _El Portal_ may be considered the port of Xeres, to which -place (distant about three miles) there is a good wheel-road. - -The fatal battle which gave Spain up to the dominion of the Saracens -(A.D. 714) was fought on the southern bank of the Guadalete, about five -miles from Xeres, on the road to Paterna. The robes and "horned helmet" -of Roderick, which he is supposed to have thrown off to facilitate his -escape, were found on the bank of the river, where a small chapel, -dedicated to Our Lady of _Leyna_, now stands. The sanguinary fight is -stated--with the customary Spanish exaggeration--to have lasted eight -days! and then only to have been decided in favour of the Mohammedans by -treason. - -But however much we may admire the valour displayed by the Gothic -monarch, in thus obstinately defending his crown, yet the rashness he -was guilty of, in drawing up his forces on such a field (in a country -abounding in strong positions, where the enemy's superiority of numbers -would not have availed them), proves him to have been as little fitted -to command an army as to govern a kingdom. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - CHOICE OF ROADS TO SEVILLE--BY LEBRIJA--MIRAGE--THE MARISMA--POST - ROAD--CROSS ROAD BY LAS CABEZAS AND LOS PALACIOS--DIFFICULTY OF - RECONCILING ANY OF THESE ROUTES WITH THAT OF THE ROMAN - ITINERARY--SEVILLE--GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY--THE - ALAMEDA--DISPLAY OF CARRIAGES--ELEVATION OF THE HOST--PUBLIC - BUILDINGS--THE CATHEDRAL--LONJA--AMERICAN ARCHIVES--ALCAZAR--CASA - PILATA--ROYAL SNUFF MANUFACTORY--CANNON FOUNDRY--CAPUCHIN - CONVENT--MURILLO--THEATRE OF SEVILLE--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STATE OF - THE NATIONAL DRAMA--MORATIN--THE BOLERO--SPANISH DANCING--THE - SPANIARDS NOT A MUSICAL PEOPLE. - - -The traveller who journeys on horseback has the choice of several roads -between Xeres and Seville. The shortest is by the marshes of the -Guadalquivir, visiting only one town, Lebrija, in the whole distance of -eleven leagues. The longest is the post route, or _arrecife_, which -makes a very wide circuit by Utrera and Alcala de Guadaira, to avoid the -swampy country bordering the river. From this latter road several others -diverge to the left, cutting off various segments of the arc it -describes; and in summer these routes are even better than the highway -itself, though heavy and much intersected by torrents in winter. - -On the first-named or shortest road, the town of Lebrija alone calls for -observation. It is about fifteen miles from Xeres, and stands on the -side of a slightly-marked mound, that stretches some little way into the -wide-spreading plain of the Guadalquivir. The knoll is covered with the -extensive ruins of a castle--a joint work of Romans and Moors--which -during the late war was put into a defensible state by the French. Most -writers agree in placing here the Roman city of Nebrissa;[40] in which -name that of the modern town may readily be distinguished. It is distant -about five miles from the Guadalquivir, and contains three convents, and -a population of 4,000 souls. The Posada is excellent. - -The country from Xeres to Lebrija presents an undulated surface, which -is clothed with vines and olives; but thenceforth the banks of the -"_olivifero Boetis_" are devoted entirely to pasture, and the road is -most uninterestingly flat: so flat, indeed, that there is scarcely a -rise in the whole twenty-eight miles from Lebrija to Seville. It is not -passable in winter, and but one wretched hovel, called the _Venta del -Peleon_, offers itself as a resting-place. The river winds occasionally -close up to the side of the road, and from time to time a barge or -passage boat, gliding along its smooth surface, breaks the wearisome -monotony of the scene; but in general the tortuous stream wanders to a -distance of several miles from the road, and is altogether lost to the -sight in an apparently interminable plain, that stretches to the -westward. - -The misty vapour, or _mirage_, which rises from and hangs over the low -land bordering the river, produces singular deceptions; at times giving -the whole face of the country in advance the semblance of a vast lake; -at others, magnifying distant objects in a most extraordinary manner. On -one occasion, we were surprised to see what had every appearance of -being a large town rise up suddenly before us; and it was only when -arrived within a few hundred yards of the objects we had taken for -churches and houses, that we became convinced they were but a drove of -oxen. These imaginary oxen proved in the end, however, to be only a -flock of sheep. The _Marisma_,[41] for such is the name given to this -low ground, affords pasturage for immense herds of cattle of all sorts, -and the herbage is so fine as to lead one to wonder what becomes of all -the _fat_ beef and mutton in Spain. - -The post road from Xeres to Seville, as I have already mentioned, is -very circuitous, increasing the distance from forty-three to fifty-six -miles--reckoned fifteen and a half post leagues. - -For the first thirteen miles, that is, to the post house of _La Casa -real del Cuervo_, the road traverses a country rich in corn and olives, -but skirting for some considerable distance the western limits of a vast -heath, called the _llanura de Caulina_, whereon even goats have -difficulty in finding sustenance. The first league of the road is -perfectly level, the rest hilly. A little beyond the post house of El -Cuervo, a road strikes off to the left to Lebrija. The _arrecife_, -proceeding on towards Utrera, crosses numerous gulleys by which the -winter torrents are led down from the side of the huge _Sierra -Gibalbin_, which, here raising its head on the right, stretches to the -north for a mile or two, keeping parallel to the road, and then again -sinks to the plain. This passed, the remainder of the road to Utrera is -conducted along what may be termed the brow of a wide tract of low table -land, which, extending to the foot of the distant _Serrania de Ronda_ on -the right, breaks in the opposite direction into innumerable -ramifications, towards the plain of the Guadalquivir. - -In the entire distance to Utrera, (twenty-four miles from _El Cuervo_) -there is not a single village on the road, and but very few farms or -even cottages scattered along it. It is plentifully furnished with -bridges for crossing the various _barrancas_[42] that drain the mountain -ravines in the winter, and by means of these bridges the chaussee is -kept nearly on a dead level throughout. About midway there is another -post house. This road is so perfectly uninteresting, that, availing -myself of the earliest opportunity of quitting it and proceeding to -Seville by a more direct, if not a more diversified route, I will strike -into a well-beaten track that presents itself, edging away to the left, -about three miles beyond _El Cuervo_, and is directed on Las Cabezas de -San Juan, distant about six miles from the post road. - -Las Cabezas de San Juan is a wretched little village, which inscriptions -found in its vicinity have decided to be the _Ugia_[43] of the Romans. -It is situated on a knoll, commanding an extensive view over the -circumjacent flat country, and some years since contained a population -of a thousand or twelve hundred souls. But, having been the hotbed -wherein Riego's conspiracy was brought to unnatural maturity, it was -razed to the ground during the short contest that restored Ferdinand to -a despotic throne, and "all its pleasant things laid waste." - -From hence to _Los Palacios_ is ten miles. The country is flat, and but -partially cultivated. A short league before reaching _Los Palacios_, a -long ruined bridge, called _El Alcantarilla_, is seen at a little -distance off the road on the right. In the time of Swinburne, this -bridge appears to have been passable, and an inscription was then -sufficiently perfect to announce its Roman origin. It was probably -raised to carry a road from Lebrija to Utrera across a marshy tract, -which in winter is apt to be flooded by the _Salado de Moron_; or -perhaps the road over it may have been directed on _Dos Hermanos_, which -is known to be the Roman town of Orippo. - -Los Palacios is a clean compact village, of about 1,000 inhabitants. A -plain extends for many miles on all sides of it, but a slight, perhaps -artificial, mound rises slightly above the general level of the place on -its eastern side, and bears the weight of its ruined castle: the walls -of the village itself are also fast crumbling to the dust. The inns are -miserable; but a Spanish nobleman, with whom we had become acquainted at -Xeres, had obligingly furnished us with a letter of introduction to a -gentleman of the place, who entertained us most hospitably, and very -reluctantly--for he wished much to detain us--gave orders to the _duena_ -of his household to have the usual breakfast of chocolate and bread -fried in lard prepared for us by daybreak on the following morning. - -From Los Palacios to Seville the distance is reckoned five "_leguas -regulares_," but it is barely fifteen miles. The country to the north of -the village is very fruitful, and becomes hilly as one proceeds. At -about nine miles there is a solitary venta, on the margin of a stream -that comes down from _Dos Hermanos_; which village is situated about a -league off on the right. - -It is a matter of some little difficulty to make any of the roads -between Cadiz and Seville (that is, from Port St. Mary's onwards) agree -with the route laid down in the Itinerary of Antoninus. The distance of -the _Portus Gaditanus_ from _Hispalis_ is therein stated to be -seventy-six Roman miles,[44] or, according to Florez, sixty-eight;[45] -which miles, if computed to contain eight _Olympic_ stadia each, are -equal to seventy, and sixty-three British statute miles respectively; -the actual distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Seville being, by the -chaussee, sixty-six miles; by Lebrija and the marshes, fifty-two. - -On comparing these distances, therefore, one would naturally be led to -suppose that the Roman military way followed the circuitous line of the -existent chaussee, but that monuments and inscriptions, which have been -found at Las Cabezas de St. Juan and Dos Hermanos, prove those places -to be the towns of _Ugia_ and _Orippo_, mentioned in the Itinerary as -lying upon the road. We are under the necessity, therefore, of adopting -a line which reduces the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ to -_Hispalis_ far below even that given by Florez. - -The only way of meeting all these difficulties and premises seems to be -by taking a smaller stadium than the _Olympic_. That of 666-2/3 to a -degree of the meridian[46] I have generally found to agree well with the -actual distances of places in Spain, and it is a scale which we are -warranted in adopting, since it is sometimes used by Strabo on the -authority of Eratosthenes, and Pliny admits that no two persons ever -agreed in the Roman measures. - -Taking this scale, therefore (though a yet smaller would agree better), -I fix the first station, _Hasta_, at a small table hill, even now called -by the Spaniards _La Mesa de Asta_, lying N.N.W. of Xeres;[47] making -the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ sixteen miles, as in the -Itinerary, instead of eight, as altered by Florez: a number, by the -way, which scarcely agrees better with the actual distance from Port St. -Mary's to Xeres--at which latter place he fixes Hasta--than the sixteen -miles of the original. - -The next place mentioned in the Itinerary is _Ugia_; determined, as has -been already stated, to have stood where Las Cabezas de San Juan is now -situated; and the distance from the _Mesa de Asta_ to this place, -passing through _Nebrissa_ (Lebrija--omitted in the Itinerary, as not -being a convenient halting-place for the troops), agrees tolerably well -with that specified, viz., twenty-seven Roman miles. The remaining -distances, viz., twenty-four miles to _Orippo_ (Dos Hermanos), and nine -to _Hispalis_ (Seville), agree yet better, though still somewhat below -the scale I have adopted. - -The appearance of Seville, approaching it on the side of the _Marisma_, -is by no means imposing. Stretching as the city does along the bank of -the Guadalquivir, its least diameter meets the view; and, from its -standing on a perfect flat, the walls by which it is encircled conceal -the most part of the houses, and take off from the height of the hundred -spires of its churches--the lofty _Giralda_ being the only conspicuous -object that presents itself above them. - -The wide avenue which, after crossing the river _Guadaira_, leads up to -the city gate, is, however, prepossessing; a spacious botanical garden -is on the left hand, and, in advance of the city walls, are the -Amphitheatre, the Royal Snuff Manufactory, and several other handsome -public buildings. - -Seville is generally considered,--at all events by its inhabitants,--the -largest city of Spain. It is of an oval shape, two miles long, and one -and a quarter broad; and, washed by the Guadalquivir on the eastern -side, is enclosed on the others by a patched-up embattled wall, the work -of all ages and nations. - -The city is tolerably free from suburbs, excepting at the Carmona and -_Rosario_ gates on its western side; but numerous extramural convents, -hospitals, barracks, and other public edifices, are scattered about in -different directions, which, with the town of Triana, on the opposite -bank of the river, materially increase the size of the place, and swell -the amount of its population to at least 100,000 souls. - -Seville cannot be called a handsome city, for it contains but one -tolerable street; the houses, however, are lofty, and generally well -built, the shops good, and the lamps within sight of each other, which -is not usually the case in Spanish towns. Most of the houses in the -principal thoroughfares are built with an edging of flat roof -overlooking the street. This part of the house is called the _Azotea_, -and, with the lower orders, serves the manifold purposes of a dormitory -in summer, a place for washing and drying clothes in winter, and a -place of assignation at all seasons. - -In hot weather awnings are spread from these _azoteas_ across the -streets, rendering them delightfully cool and shady; the canvass -covering, fanned by the breeze, sending down a refreshing air, whilst it -serves at the same time as a shelter from the sun. Even in the most -sultry days of summer, I have never found the streets of Seville -_impracticable_. - -There are several spacious squares in various parts of the city; in the -largest, distinguished by the extraordinary, though, perhaps, not -_unsuitable_ name of _La Plaza de la Incarnacion_, the market is held. -This is abundantly supplied with bread, meat, fish, poultry, and all -sorts of vegetables and fruits, and is, perhaps, the cheapest in -Andalusia; it certainly is the cleanest. - -The _Alamedas_, of which there are two, are equally as well taken care -of as the market, though in point of beauty they are not quite deserving -of the praise which has been bestowed upon them. One is in the interior -of the city, and becomes only a place of general resort when the weather -is unsettled. The other more commonly frequented walk is between the -walls of the town and the Guadalquivir, extending nearly a mile along -the bank of the river, from the _Torre del Oro_ to the bridge of boats -communicating with Triana. It is well sheltered with trees, and -furnished with seats, and is indeed a most delightful and amusing -promenade, being nightly crowded with all descriptions of people, from -the grandee of the first class to the goatskin clad swineherd, who -visits the city for a _sombrero_ of the _ultima moda_, or a fresh supply -of _bacallao_. - -The carriage drive round the walk is generally thronged with equipages -of all sorts and ages, any one of which, shown as a _spectacle_ in -England, would most assuredly make the exhibitor's fortune. The _blazon_ -on the pannels, and venerable cocked hats and laced coats of the drivers -and attendants, bespeak them, nevertheless, to belong to _sons of -somebody_; and the wives and daughters of somebody seated therein, seem -not a little proud of possessing these indubitable proofs of the -antiquity of their houses. Few of these distinguished personages, -however, excepting such as labour under the infliction of gout, -rheumatism, or the indelible marks of old age, are satisfied to remain -quiet spectators of the gay scene; but, after driving once or twice -round the _paseo_ to see _who_ has arrived, alight, and join the flutter -of their fans, and, with grief I say it, their loud laugh and -conversation to the already over-powering din of the "promiscuous -multitude." - -This scene of gaiety is prolonged until long after the sun has ceased -to gild the mirror-like surface of the Guadalquivir. The walk, indeed, -is still in its most fashionable state of throng, when a tinkling bell, -announcing the elevation of the Host, marks the concluding ceremony of -the vesper service in a neighbouring church. At this signal the motley -crowd appears as if touched by the wand of an enchanter. Each devout -Romanist either reverentially bends the knee, or stands statue-like on -the spot where the homage-commanding sound first reached the ear. The -men take off their hats--the ladies drop their fans. The coachmen check -their hacks--the hacks hang down their heads--not a whisper is heard, -not an eye is raised. The bell sounds a second time, and animation -returns, the breast is marked with repeated crosses, the dust brushed -off the knees, "_conques_" innumerable take up the interrupted -conversation, and once more - - "Soft eyes look love to eyes which speak again." - -So ludicrously observant are the Spaniards of this ceremony, that, on -the ringing of the bell, I once remarked a water-carrier stop in the -midst of his sonorous cry, "_A...._" and devoutly uncovering his head, -and crossing himself, wait until the second tinkle permitted him again -to open his mouth; when, with most comical gravity, he finished the -wanting syllable "_gua!_ _Agua fres--ca!_" - -The Guadalquivir is about 200 yards wide at Seville, where it forms a -kind of basin, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons burthen. It is -so liable to be swollen by the freshes poured down from the mountains in -the upper part of its course, that a permanent bridge has never been -attempted; and the banks are so low, that the floods have frequently -reached to the very gates of the city. The influence of the tide is felt -some little distance above Seville, rendering the water of the river -unfit for general purposes. The water of the wells, on the other hand, -is considered unwholesome, so that the city is, in a great measure, -dependent for its supply of this most necessary article on an aqueduct, -that brings a stream from _Alcala de Guadaira_, a distance of about nine -miles. - -The populous town of Triana is still worse off than Seville, for, as the -expedient of a leather pipe has not yet been thought of, the "essential -fluid" has to be carried across the river on men's or asses' backs, -rendering it a most expensive article of consumption; a circumstance -that accounts, in a great measure, for the very Egyptian complexion of -the inhabitants. - -The public buildings of Seville fully entitle the city to its boasted -title of the Western Capital of Spain. It contains no less than sixty -convents and nunneries, besides numerous other religious establishments -and hospitals. The Archiepiscopal Church is the largest in Spain,[48] -its dimensions being 450 feet by 260; and it is one of the most splendid -piles in the universe. The architecture of the exterior is heavy and -tasteless, so that one is but little prepared for the striking change -which meets the eye on drawing aside the ponderous leathern curtain that -closes the portal, and entering the vast vaulted interior. - -It is built in the gothic style, not of a florid kind, however, but -simple, aerial, and imposing. The colour of the free stone used in its -construction is a subdued white; the pavement is laid in squares of -black and white marble, and the stained glass windows, which are of -extreme beauty, shed a warm, variegated glow throughout the building, -that produces an effect well suited to its character. Indeed, no -cathedral that I have any where seen either presents a more striking -coup d'oeil, or draws forth, in a greater degree, that instinctive -feeling of devotion implanted in the human breast. The walls, too, are -not so disfigured with tawdry chapels, as those of most Roman Catholic -churches, and the few paintings with which they are decorated are _chef -d'oeuvres_ of the best Spanish masters. - -One modern painting has, however, been admitted to the collection, -rather, I should think, out of compliment to the ladies of Seville, than -on account of its own merit. It represents two maidens of this saintly -city, who, "_mucho tiempo hay_,"[49] to use our conductor's expression, -having been accused of some heretical practices, were exposed to be -devoured by a ferocious lion. The gallant sovereign of the woods and -forests, instead, however, of making a meal of these tempting morsels of -human flesh and imagined frailty, "_se echo a sus pies_," and began -caressing them after his feline fashion, to the great astonishment of -all beholders! This miraculous want of appetite on the part of the lion, -making the innocence of the damsels evident, led, of course, to their -liberation, and their names are now enrolled upon the long list of -saints of Seville. - -The tower of the cathedral, commonly called _La Giralda_, from a -colossal statue of _Faith_, at its summit, which, with strange -inconsistency of character, wheels about at every change of wind, is by -no means a handsome structure. It was built by the Moors, about 250 -years before the city was captured by San Fernando, and originally was -only 280 feet in height; but a belfry has since been added, which makes -it altogether 364 feet high. The tower is fifty feet square, and the -ascent is effected by an inclined plane, by means of which, some queen -of Spain is rumoured to have ridden on horseback to the gallery under -the belfry. - -The view from the summit of the tower fully repays one, even for the -labour of ascending it on foot, and I am not quite sure but that the -inclined plane rather increases than lessens the fatigue of mounting. -From hence alone can a correct idea be formed of the size and splendour -of Seville. The eye, from this elevation, embraces the whole extent of -the city, its long narrow streets, wide circuit of walls, its gateways, -magnificent public buildings, and spacious plazas, its verdant -orangeries, and its house-top flower-gardens. Beyond the busy city, a -fruitful plain extends for several miles in every direction; on one side -bearing luxuriant crops of corn and olives, on the other, giving pasture -to countless herds of cattle; the lovely Guadalquivir winding through -and fertilizing the whole. - -The Archiepiscopal palace occupies one side of a small square, that is -immediately under the _Giralda_; the facade of this building is -handsome, but we had not an opportunity of seeing the interior, as its -worthy occupier was unwell. Near the cathedral, but on the opposite side -to the Archbishop's residence, is the _Lonja_; a splendid edifice, which -(as the name implies) was originally built for an exchange. But, though -the lower suites of apartments are still set apart for the use of the -merchants, the building is so inconveniently situated, that no -commercial business is transacted there, and the whole of the upper -story has been fitted up as a repository for the "American archives." -These records are most voluminous, and are preserved with as much care, -and ticketed with as great regularity, as if Spain shortly intended to -resume the sovereignty over her former vast transatlantic possessions. - -As a mark of especial favour, the tip of my little finger was permitted -to rest upon the edge of the first letter written from the _other -world_; the keeper of the archives requesting me, at the same time, not -to press too hard upon the valuable MS., and assuring us, that most -persons were obliged to be satisfied with looking at the precious -document bearing the signature of the adventurous Columbus, in its glass -case. - -The whole of the shelves, drawers, &c., are of cedar; a wood which has -the property of preserving the papers committed to their charge from all -descriptions of insects. The floors are laid in chequers of red and blue -marble, and the grand staircase is composed of the same, which is highly -polished and remarkably handsome. One of the apartments of the vast -quadrangle contains two original paintings of Columbus and Hernan -Cortes. - -A little removed from the _Lonja_, is the _Alcazar_, or Royal Palace. -This is kept up in a kind of half-dress state, and has a governor -appointed to its peculiar charge, who usually resides within its -precincts. It is built in the Moorish style, and is generally supposed -to have been the work of Moorish hands, though raised only--so at least -a Gothic inscription on its walls is said to state--by "the puissant -King of Castile and Leon, Don Pedro." - -There is probably some little exaggeration in this, and, in point of -fact, perhaps, the mighty monarch only repaired and added to the palace -of the Moorish kings, which the neglect of a hundred years had, in his -time, rendered uninhabitable. It is a very inferior piece of workmanship -to the Alhambra, but, nevertheless, contains much to admire, -particularly the ceilings of the apartments (of which there are upwards -of seventy), and the walls of one of the courts. - -The different towers command very fine views over the city and adjacent -country, and the gardens are delightful, though of but small extent. The -walks are laid with tiles, between which little tubes are introduced -vertically, that communicate with waterpipes underneath, and, by merely -turning a screw, the whole of the valves of these tubes are -simultaneously opened, and each shoots forth a diminutive stream of -water. This plan was adopted, as being an improvement on the tedious -method usually practised in watering gardens. It affords the facetiously -disposed a glorious opportunity of inflicting a practical joke upon -unwary visiters to the Alcazar; who, conducted to the garden, and then -and there seduced, out of mere politeness, to join in the complaint -expressed of a want of rain, suddenly find themselves _over_ a heavy -shower, and under the necessity of laughing at a piece of wit from which -there is no possibility of escape. - -The _Casa Pilata_ is another of the sights of Seville. It is a private -house, said to be built on the exact model of that of the Roman governor -of Jerusalem. It is fitted up with much taste, but its chief beauty -consists in a profusion of glazed tiles, which give it actual coolness, -as well as a refreshing look. - -Most of the other subjects worthy of the traveller's notice are situated -without the walls of the city. The first in order, issuing from the -Xeres gate, is the _Plaza de los Toros_, or amphitheatre, an immense -circus, one half built of stone, and the other half of wood, and capable -of accommodating 14,000 persons. The next remarkable object is the -_Royal Tobacco Manufactory_, (the term seems rather absurd to English -ears,) a huge edifice, so strongly built, and jealously defended by -walls and ditches, as to appear rather a detached fort, or citadel, -raised to overawe the turbulent city, than an establishment for -peacefully grinding tobacco leaves into snuff, and rolling them into -cigars. The manufactory employs 5000 persons, and of this number 2600 -are occupied solely in making cigars. But, as I have elsewhere shown, -even with the assistance of the Royal Manufactory lately established at -Malaga, the supply of _lawful_ cigars is not equal to one-tenth part of -the consumption of the country. - -The demand for snuff may probably be fully met by the Royal Manufactory; -for the Spaniards are not great consumers of tobacco through the medium -of the nose; and most of the snuffs prepared at Seville are extremely -pungent, so that "a little goes a great way." There is a coarse kind, -however, called, I think, "Spanish bran," which is much esteemed by -_connoisseurs_. - -The Royal Cannon Foundry is in the vicinity of the Tobacco Manufactory, -and though this establishment for furnishing the means of consuming -powder is not in such activity as its neighbour employed in supplying -food for smoke, yet it is in equally good order, and, on the whole, is a -very creditable national establishment. The brass pieces made here are -remarkably handsome, and very correctly bored, but they want the -lightness and finish of our guns--qualities in which English artillery -excels all others. Two of the "monster mortars," cast by the French for -the siege of Cadiz, are still preserved here. - -The Cavalry Barracks, Royal Saltpetre Manufactory, Military Hospital, -and various other edifices, planned on a scale proportioned to Spain's -_former_ greatness, together with numerous convents, equally -disproportioned to her present wants, follow in rapid succession in -completing the circuit of the walls. The most interesting amongst the -religious houses is a convent of Capuchins, situated near the Cordoba -gate. It contains twenty-five splendid paintings by Murillo, "any one of -which," as a modern writer has justly remarked, "would suffice to render -a man immortal." - -Murillo was certainly a perfect master of his art. His style is -peculiar, and in his early productions there is a coldness and formality -that partake of the school of Velasquez; but the works of his maturer -age are distinguished by a boldness of outline, a gracefulness of -grouping, and a depth and softness of colouring, which entitle him to -rank with Rubens and Correggio. - -The paintings of Murillo, though met with in all the best collections of -Europe, where they take their place amongst the works of the first -masters, are, nevertheless, valued by foreigners rather on account of -their rarity than of their execution. The fact is, those of his -paintings which have left Spain are nearly all devoted to the same -subject--the Madonna and Child; and, even in that, offer but little -variety either in the disposition, or in the colouring of the figures. -The Spanish artist is, consequently, accused of want of genius and -self-plagiarism. Nor does Murillo receive due credit for the pains he -took in finishing his paintings; for, amongst those of his works which -have found their way into foreign collections, there are few which have -not received more or less damage, either in the transport from Spain, or -by subsequent neglect; and, in many instances, the attempts made to -restore them by cleaning or retouching have inflicted a yet more severe -injury upon them. - -Those persons only, therefore, who have visited Spain, and, above all, -Murillo's native city--Seville--can fully appreciate the merits of that -wonderful artist. The vast number of master-pieces which he has there -left behind him, and the variety of subjects they embrace, sufficiently -prove, however, that, whilst in versatility of talent he has been -equalled by few, in point of _industry_ he almost stands without a -rival. - -Besides the twenty-five paintings in the Capuchin convent, already -noticed, the _Hospital de la Caridad_ contains several of Murillo's -master-pieces; two, in particular, are deserving of notice--the subjects -are, the miracle of the loaves and fishes, and Moses striking the rock. -The great size of these two paintings saved them from a journey to -Paris, but the French, in their zeal for the encouragement of the fine -arts, stripped the chapel of all the other works of Murillo that -enriched it--only a few of which were restored at the peace of 1815. - -Other paintings of the Spanish Rafael are to be found in the various -churches of Seville, and every private collector (of whom the city -contains many,) prides himself on being the possessor of at least one -_original_ of his illustrious fellow-citizen. - -The theatre of Seville has ever held a comparatively distinguished place -in the dramatic annals of Spain; and, lamentable as is the condition to -which the national stage has been reduced, the capital of Andalusia may -still be considered as one of the most _playgoing_ places in the -kingdom. This may, perhaps, partly be accounted for by the number of -dramatic authors to whom the city has given birth, partly by the -peculiar disposition of the inhabitants of the province, who are deeper -tinged with romance, and have more imagination than the rest of the -natives of the Peninsula. - -The deplorable atrophy under which the drama has of late years been -languishing in every part of Europe[50] had, aided by various -predisposing circumstances, long been undermining the at no-time very -robust constitution of the Spanish theatre; which, like a condemned -criminal, existed only from day to day, at the will and pleasure of a -despotic sovereign; and had, moreover, constantly to combat the -hostility of the priesthood: a bigoted race, prone at all times to -discourage an art, which, by enlarging the understandings of the -community, tended to diminish the respect with which their own profane -melo-dramatic mysteries were regarded. The priests, in fact, have always -been, and ever will be, averse to their flock being fleeced by any other -shears than their own. - -Considering, therefore, the obstacles which the Spanish theatre has had -to contend against, obstacles which were yet more formidable in that -country in times past than they are at the present day, it cannot but be -admitted that the drama was cultivated in Spain with a degree of success -which could little have been expected. - -Our own early dramatists, indeed, drew largely from the prolific sources -opened by Lope de Vega, Calderon, and other Spanish writers of the -sixteenth century; and, perhaps, to the example set by those authors is -our stage indebted for its release from the thraldom in which others -are yet held, by a preposterous, though _classic_, adherence to the -preservation of the unities. - -The drama (in the strict sense of the term) never, however, became a -popular amusement with the Spaniards generally. The legal disabilities -imposed upon the performers by the intrigues of the Romish church -brought the profession of an actor into disrepute, and, as a natural -consequence, checked the progress of the histrionic art. The stage had -no door opening to preferment, and the knight of the buskin (to whom, by -the way, the _Don_ was interdicted), though endowed with the talents of -a Talma or a Kemble, of a Liston or a Potier, ranked below the lowest of -the train of bullfighters, and could never expect to amass a fortune, or -hope to be considered otherwise than as a "diverting vagabond." A -Spanish actress was yet more discouragingly circumstanced, as, however -irreproachable her character, she held only the same grade in society as -the frail Ciprian whose beauty gained her livelihood. - -Labouring under such disadvantages, it is not surprising, therefore, -that Thalia and Euterpe should eventually have been driven from the -Spanish stage, and a licentious monster--the illegitimate offspring of -Comus and Impudicitia--have been crowned with the palm-wreath snatched -from the brows of the immortal Parnassides. - -The modern Spanish dramatic authors--if it be not profanation so to call -them--pandering to the vitiated taste of the day, indulge in all the -licence of Aristophanes, without varnishing their obscenities with the -brilliancy of his wit. They write, in fact, for auditors, who, whilst -endowed with a quick perception of the ridiculous, are too ignorant to -discriminate between right and wrong, and cannot perceive where -legitimate satire ends, and libertinism commences; who, possessing a -vast stock of native wit, inherit with it a coarse, degenerate taste. -The human frailties of the monastic orders are, consequently, the -favourite subjects now held up to ridicule on the stage, as if to prove -the truth of Voltaire's lines, - - _"Les pretres ne sont point ce qu'un vain peuple pense, - _Notre credulite fait toute leur science_;"_ - -and no modern _saynete_[51] is considered perfect, unless some member of -their church is brought forward to serve as a recipient for the ribald -jokes of an Andalusian _majo_, or to become the amatory dupe of an -intriguing _graciosa_. - -These pieces are not suffered to appear in print; or rather, I should -say, perhaps, would not _sell_ if they were printed, for the press of -the day has far exceeded the bounds of decorum in giving light to many -of the somewhat less objectionable productions of _Sotomayor_, -_Comella_, and other prolific scribblers of Vaudevilles. The only modern -dramatic writers who have been at all successful in obtaining public -favour on worthier grounds, are _Iriate_, _Martinez de la Rosa_, and -_Moratin_, but their writings are by no means numerous. - -The plays of the last-named (who is considered the Terence of Spain) are -always well received at Seville, where the dramatic taste is somewhat -more refined than in the minor provincial towns. They are full of -incident, without being encumbered with plot, like those of the old -Spanish school; and the dialogue is natural and sprightly, without -falling into licentiousness or vulgarity. This author's translation of -Shakspeare's Hamlet is lamentably weak, however, for his language is not -sufficiently elevated for tragedy. To Moliere he has done more justice. - -The Spanish language is remarkably well adapted to the stage, being not -less melodious than emphatic and dignified; and there is a raciness -about it well suited to comedy, though, on the whole, I should say, it -is better adapted for tragedy. The national taste is, however, in favour -of comedy, which, besides being more congenial to the character of the -people, speaks more intelligibly to their uncultivated understandings. -And, indeed, it must be confessed, that but for the infinite superiority -of the language, the long speeches of the heroes of Spanish tragedy -would be yet more wearying to listen to, than even the jingling, rhymed -declamations of the French drama. - -It is not surprising, therefore, that the impatient _Andaluzes_,--whose -whole thoughts are bent upon the coming Bolero and laughter-causing -farce,--should complain of the interminable "_platicas importunas_" of -their tragedies, and even of their _serious_ comedies; especially since -they are delivered in a diction which to the lower orders is almost -unintelligible, the dialogue being generally carried on in the second -person plural, _vos_: a style which is never now heard in common -parlance, and is, therefore, quite unnatural to them. - -I will, however, draw the curtain upon Spanish tragedy, and bring the -graceful _Baylarinas_ upon the stage; at the first click of whose -castanets, whilst even yet behind the scenes, every bright eye sparkles -with animation, and every tongue is silenced. - -The Bolero, which is the favourite national dance, admits of great -variety as well of figures as of movements, for it may be executed by -any number of persons, though two or four are generally preferred. It is -a purified kind of _Fandango_, and, when danced by Spaniards, is as -graceful and pleasing an exhibition as can be imagined. It is altogether -divested of those dervish-like gyrations, and other wonderful displays -of limbs and under-petticoats, that are so much the vogue on the boards -of London and Paris, and on which, in fact, the reputation of a -_Ballerina_ seems to depend. In Spain the taste in dancing has not yet -reached this pitch of refinement; for, even in the _Cachucha_, when the -dancer turns her back upon the spectators, a Spanish lady deems it -necessary to turn her face from the stage. - -The castanets, though furnishing but little to the entertainment in the -way of music, afford the performers the means of displaying their -figures to advantage; and are yet further useful, by giving employment -to the hands and arms; which, with most dancers, public as well as -private, are generally found to be very much in the way. - -There are other dances of a less _modest_ character than the _Bolero_, -which are performed at the minor theatres; but it may be said of Spanish -public dancing generally, that it is light, spirited, and _poetic_, and -admits of the display of considerable grace without being _indecent_. - -Although of all modern languages--that of dulcet Italy alone -excepted--the Spanish is the best adapted to song, yet the Spaniards -have little or no relish for musical entertainments. The truth is, they -are not a musical nation. In expressing this opinion, I am aware that I -declare war against a host of preconceived notions; but in proof of my -assertion I will ask, what country possesses so little national music as -Spain? Has a single _known_ opera ever been produced there? Is not her -church music all borrowed? Is not the trifling guitar the only -instrument the Spaniard is really master of? Is not the _Sostenuto_ -bellow of the _arriero_ almost the only approach to melody that the -peasant ever attempts? - -Spanish music consists of a few simple airs, which are probably -heir-looms of the Saracens; and a medley of _Boleros_, that may be -considered mere variations of one tune. Neither their vocal nor -instrumental performances ever reach beyond mediocrity, and in concert -they invariably sing and play _a faire casser la tete_. - -A fine climate and a gregarious disposition lead the peasantry to -assemble nightly, and amuse themselves by dancing and singing to the -monotonous thrumming of a cracked guitar; and this habit has earned for -the nation the character of being musical--a character to which the -Spaniards are little better entitled than the _Tom Tom_-loving black -_apprentices_ of our West India islands. - -There are exceptions to every rule, and I willingly admit that I have -heard an opera of Rossini very well performed by Spanish "_artists_." -But that they do not _pride themselves_ on being a musical nation is -evident from their always preferring Italian music to their own, though -they like to sing Spanish words to an Italian opera. - -The Theatre is a place of fashionable resort at Seville. It fills up a -vacuum between the Paseo and the Tertulia. And when the times are -sufficiently quiet to warrant the outlay, a sufficient sum is subscribed -to bribe a second-rate Italian company to expose their melodious throats -to the baneful influence of the sea breezes. The house is large and -rather tastily decorated, but so ill-shaped that, unless one is close to -the stage, not a word can be heard; and if there, the prompter's voice -completely drowns those of the performers. The fall of the curtain at -the conclusion of the _Bolero_ is generally the signal for the _beau -monde_ to retire, leaving the highly seasoned _Saynete_ to the enjoyment -of the "_gente baja y desreglada_."[52] - -This breaking up is not the least amusing part of the play. The -antediluvian carriages are again put in requisition; and now, besides -the cocked-hatted attendants, each vehicle is accompanied by two or more -torch-bearers on foot; so that the blaze of light on first issuing from -the Theatre is most dazzling and astounding,--astounding, because it is -only on walking into the gutter, or over a heap of filth in the first -cross street one has occasion to enter, that the want of lamps in these -minor avenues renders the utility of this extraordinary illumination -apparent. - -Each carriage, after "taking up," moves majestically off, its -torch-bearers running ahead to show the way, scattering long strings of -sparks, like comets' tails, amongst the humble pedestrians. - -The Tertulias commence after the families have supped at their -respective houses, that is to say, at about eleven o'clock; and are -generally kept up until a late hour. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - SOCIETY OF SEVILLE--SPANISH WOMEN--FAULTS OF EDUCATION--EVILS OF - EARLY MARRIAGES, AND MARRIAGES DE CONVENANCE--ENVIRONS OF - SEVILLE--TRIANA--SAN JUAN DE ALFARACHE--SANTI PONCE--RUINS OF - ITALICA--ITALICA NOT SO ANCIENT A CITY AS HISPALIS--YOUNG PIGS AND - THE MUSES--DEPARTURE FROM SEVILLE--THE MARQUES DE LAS - AMARILLAS--WEAKNESS, DECEIT, AND INJUSTICE OF THE LATE KING OF - SPAIN--ALCALA DE GUADAIRA--UTRERA--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRATEGICAL - IMPORTANCE OF THIS TOWN--MORON--MILITARY OPERATIONS OF - RIEGO--APATHY OF THE SERRANOS DURING THE CIVIL WAR--OLBERA--REMARKS - ON THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS. - - -The society of Seville is divided into nearly as many circles as there -are degrees in the Mohammedans paradise. In former days, the bounds of -each were marked with _heraldic_ precision, and those of the innermost -were guarded as jealously from trespass as the precincts of a royal -forest, but of late years politics have materially injured the fences. -The fine edged bridge of _Sirat_ is no longer difficult of passage, and -a foreigner, in especial, provided some mufti of the Aristocracy but -holds out his hand to him, may reach the seventh heaven without the -slightest chance of stumbling over his pedigree. - -The English, above all other foreigners, are favourably received at -Seville, for the nobles of the South of Spain, not being so much under -court influence as those of the provinces lying nearer the capital, are -by no means distinguished for their love of _absolutism_. With some few, -indeed, the want of courtly sunshine has engendered excessive -liberalism; but the nobles of Andalusia generally may be considered as -favourably disposed towards a limited monarchy--that is, are of -moderate, or what they term _English_, politics. - -Of persons of such a political bias is the first circle of the society -of Seville composed, and it is, perhaps, in every respect, the best in -the kingdom. It is adorned by many men of highly cultivated talents, and -much theoretical information, who, with a sincere love of country at -their hearts, are yet not arrogantly blind to the faults of its former -and present institutions; and who, removed to a certain extent from the -baneful influence of a corrupt court, are proportionably free from the -demoralising vices which distinguish the society of the upper classes in -the capital. - -The ladies of the _exclusive_ circle are, it must needs be confessed, -deficient in education: but they possess great natural abilities, a -wonderful flow of language, and--excepting that they will pitch their -voices so high--peculiarly fascinating manners. - -The morals of Spanish women have usually been commented upon with -unsparing severity; it strikes me, however, that the moral _principle_ -is as strong in them as in the natives of any other country or climate. -The constancy of Spanish women, when once their affections have been -placed on any object, is, indeed, proverbial, and if they are but too -frequently faithless to the marriage vow, the source of corruption may -be traced, _first_, to the lamentable religious education they -receive--since the demoralizing doctrines of the efficacy of penance and -absolution in the remission of sins furnish them at all times with a -ready palliative; and, _secondly_, to the habit of contracting early -marriages, and, especially, _marriages de convenance_, by which, in -their anxiety to see their daughters well established, parents--and -above all Spanish parents--are apt to sacrifice, not only their -children's happiness, but their honour. - -Of all the evils under which Spanish society labours, this last is the -most serious as well as most apparent. A marriage of this kind, in nine -cases out of ten, tends to demorality. It is followed by immediate -neglect on the part of the husband, whose affections were already placed -elsewhere when he gave his hand at the altar; and is soon regarded by -the wife merely as a civil compact, to which the usages of society -oblige her to subscribe. With _her_, however, this state of things had -not been anticipated. The innate, all-powerful feeling, _love_, had, up -to this period, lain dormant within her breast--for in Spain, if the -extremely early age at which females marry did not of itself warrant -this supposition, the little intercourse which, under any circumstances, -an unmarried woman (of the upper classes of society) has with the world, -naturally leads to the conclusion that her affections had not previously -been engaged; she expects, therefore, to receive from her husband the -same boundless affection that her inexperienced heart is disposed to -bestow on him;--and what is the inevitable consequence? Disappointed in -her cherished hope of occupying the first place in her husband's -affections, her innocence is tarnished at the very outset, by thus -acquiring the knowledge of his turpitude; she turns from him with -disgust; and her better feelings, seared by jealousy and wounded pride, -seeks out some other object on whom to bestow the love slighted by him, -who pledged himself to cherish it. - -Thrown thus at an early age upon the world, without the least experience -in its ways, with strong passions to lead, and evil examples to seduce -her, is it surprising that a Spanish wife should wander from the path of -virtue, and that she should hold constancy to her lover more sacred than -fidelity to a husband who quietly submits to see another possess her -affections? - -The understanding once established, however, that jealousy is not to -disturb the menage, the parties live together with all the outward -appearances of mutual esteem, and inflict the history of their private -bickerings only upon their favoured friends. - -The Spaniards of all classes have great conversational powers, but even -those of the upper are sadly deficient in general information. Their -knowledge of other nations is picked up entirely from books, and those -books mostly old ones; for few works are now written in their own -language, and still fewer are translated from those of other countries; -so that what little knowledge of mankind they possess is of the last -century. - -Cards help out the conversation at the Tertulias of the first circle. -Dancing, forfeits, and other puerile games, are the resources of the -rest. Balls and suppers are _funciones_ reserved for great occasions, -and dinner parties are of equally rare occurrence. - -In the entertainments of the nobility, the French style prevails even to -the wines, but the national dish, the _olla_, generally serves as a -prelude, and may be considered the "_piece de resistance_" of the -interminable dinner. Toothpicks (!!) and coffee are handed round, and -the party breaks up, to seek in the _siesta_ renewed powers of -digestion. - -To those, however, who think exercise more conducive to health, the -environs of Seville hold out plenty of attractions; and, if the weather -be too hot for either walking or riding, the city contains hackney -coaches and _calesas_ without number, by means of which (most of the -roads in the vicinity being level) the various interesting points may be -reached without difficulty or inconvenience. - -The places most deserving of a visit in the immediate environs of -Seville, are the villages of _San Juan de Alfarache_ and _Santi Ponce_; -near the latter of which are the ruins of Italica. - -Both these places are situated on the right bank of the Guadalquivir; -the former, about three miles below Seville, the latter a little more -distant, up the stream. The road to both traverses the long town of -Triana, which contains nothing worthy of observation but a sombre gothic -edifice, where the high altar of Popish bigotry, the Inquisition, was -first raised in the Spanish dominions. It has long, however, been -converted to another purpose, never, let us hope, to be again applied to -that which for so many ages disgraced Christianity. - -By many Triana is supposed to be the Osset of Pliny, but I think without -sufficient reason, as it does not seem probable that a place merely -divided from Seville by a narrow river should have been distinguished by -him as a distinct city. The words of Pliny, "_ex adverso oppidum -Osset_," imply certainly that Osset stood on the opposite bank of the -river to Hispalis, but not that it was situated _immediately opposite_, -as some authors have translated it. It is yet more evident that Alcala -de Guadaira cannot be Osset, as supposed by Harduin, since that town is -on the _same_ side of the Guadalquivir as Seville. - -Florez imagines Osset to have been where San Juan de Alfarache now -stands,[53] near which village traces of an ancient city have been -discovered; and the position occupied by an old Moorish castle, on the -edge of a high cliff, impending over the river, and commanding its -navigation, seems clearly to indicate the site of a Roman station, since -the Saracens usually erected their castles upon the foundations of the -dilapidated fortresses of their predecessors. The village of San Juan de -Alfarache stands at the foot of the before-mentioned cliff, compressed -between it and the Guadalquivir; which river, making a wide sweep to the -north on leaving Seville, here first reaches the roots of the chain of -hills bounding the extensive plain through which it winds its way to the -sea, and is by them turned back into its original direction. - -Of the Moorish fortress little now remains but the foundation walls; the -stones of the superstructure having probably been used to build the -church and convent that now occupy the plateau of the hill. The view -from thence is quite enchanting, embracing a long perspective of the -meandering Guadalquivir and its verdant plain, the whole extent of the -shining city, and the distant blue outline of the Ronda mountains. - -The hills rising at the back of the convent are thickly covered with -olive trees, the fruit of which is the most esteemed of all Spain: and, -indeed, those who have eaten them on the spot, if they like the flavour -of olive rather than of salt and water, would say they are the best in -the world. The fruit is suffered to hang upon the tree until it has -attained its full size, and consequently will not bear a long journey. -For the same reason, it will not keep any length of time, as the salt in -which it is preserved cannot penetrate to a sufficient depth in its oily -flesh to secure it from decay. Let no one say, however, that he dislikes -_olives_, until he has been to San Juan de Alfarache. - -Retracing our steps some way towards Seville, we reach the great road -leading from that city into Portugal by way of Badajoz; and, continuing -along the plain for about five miles, we arrive at the priory of Santi -Ponce, situated on the margin of the Guadalquivir, and close to the -ruins of Italica. So complete has been the destruction of this once -celebrated city, the birth-place of three Roman Emperors, that, but for -the vestiges of its spacious amphitheatre, one would be inclined to -doubt whether any town could possibly have stood upon the spot; the more -so as the vicinity of Seville seems, at first sight, to render it -improbable that two such large cities would have been built within so -short a distance of each other. - -Opinions on the subject of the relative antiquity of these two cities -are, however, very various; for, whilst some Spaniards are to be found, -who maintain that Hispalis was founded long before Italica, and some -who, declaring, on the other hand, that the two cities never existed -together, insist on calling Italica, _Sevilla la Vieja_;[54] others -there are who suppose that the two cities flourished contemporaneously -for a considerable period, and that Hispalis (the more modern of the -two) eventually caused the other's destruction. - -This last hypothesis might readily be received, since, from the -influence of the tide being felt at Seville and not at Santi Ponce, the -situation of the former is so much more favourable for trade than that -of the latter; but that, setting aside the traditionary authority of -Seville having been founded by _Hispalis_, one of the companions of -Hercules, we have the testimony of several writers to prove that -Hispalis was a place of consequence when Italica must have been yet in -its infancy. For the antiquity of this latter is never carried further -back than the 144th Olympiad, i.e. 200 B.C. Now, Hispalis is mentioned -by Hirtius, at no very great period after that date, as a city of great -importance; whereas, Italica is noticed by him (proving it to have been -a _distinct_ place) merely as a walled town in the vicinity.[55] - -The two places are again mentioned separately by Pliny; the one, -however, as a large city, giving its name to a vast extent of -country--the _Conventus Hispalensis_--the other as one of the towns -within the limits of that city's jurisdiction. - -The foundation of Italica being fixed, therefore, about two hundred -years before the Christian era, and attributed to the veteran soldiers -of P. C. Scipio; that is to say, immediately after the expulsion of the -Carthagenians from the country; it may naturally be concluded that the -Romans, who had not come to Spain merely to drive out their rivals, -would, with their usual foresight, have planted a colony of their own -people to overawe the _principal city_ of a country they intended to -bring under subjection; and hence, that Seville existed long before -Italica was founded. - -The amphitheatre, which alone remains to prove the former grandeur of -Italica, is of a wide oval shape. The dimensions of its arena are 270 -feet in its greatest diameter, 190 in its least. It rests partly against -a hill, a circumstance that has tended materially to save what little -remains of it from destruction; but, nevertheless, only nine tiers of -seats have offered a successful resistance to the encroachments of the -plough. Few of the vomitorios can be traced, but it would appear that -there were sixteen. Some of the caverns in which the wild beasts were -confined are in tolerable preservation. - -From the ruined amphitheatre we were conducted to a kind of pound, -enclosed by a high mud wall, and secured by a stout gate, wherein we -were informed other reliques of Italica were preserved. There was some -little delay in obtaining the key of this _museo_, the _custodio_ being -at his _siesta_; and, hearing the grunting of pigs within, we began to -doubt whether it could contain any thing worth detaining us under a -broiling sun to see. Unwilling, however, to be disappointed, we -clambered with some little difficulty to the top of the wall, and, -_horresco referens!_ beheld an old sow rubbing her back against that of -the Emperor Hadrian, whilst the profane snouts of her young progeny were -grubbing at the tesselated cheeks of Clio and Urania, the only two of -the immortal Nine whose features could be distinctly traced in an -elaborate mosaic pavement that covered the greater part of the court. - -Several fragments of statues were strewed about; but all were in too -mutilated a state to excite the least interest. The feeling with which -we contemplated the beautiful, outraged pavement, was one of unmitigated -disgust; for the workmanship of such parts of it as remained intact was -of the most delicate description, the stones not being more than one -fifth of an inch square, and, as far as we could judge, put together so -as to form a picture of great merit. I fear that this valuable specimen -of the art has long since been altogether lost, for, at the time of -which I write, the stones were lying in heaps about the yard, and the -pavement seemed likely to be subjected to a continuance of the mining -operations of the "swinish multitude," as well as to exposure to the -destructive ravages of the elements. - -I could not refrain from expostulating with the owner of the piggery -(when he at length made his appearance) at this, in the words of Don -Quijote, _puerco y extraordinario abuso_. He was a wag, however, and -answered my "Why do you keep your pigs here?" precisely in the words -that an Irish peasant replied to a very similar question, viz., "But am -I to have the company of the pig?" put to him by a friend of mine, who -had a billet for a night's lodging on his cabin: to wit, "_No hay toda -comodidad_?" "Isn't there every convey'nance?" - -We then attempted to persuade him that the pigs being young and -inexperienced would probably kill themselves by swallowing the little -square stones piled up against the walls, when the supply of Indian corn -failed them. "No, Senor," he replied; "_el Puerco es un animal que tiene -mas sesos que una casa_." "The hog is an animal that has more (sesos) -brains (or bricks) than a house." And, indeed, the discrimination of the -animal is wonderful, for, whilst we were yet arguing the case, one of -the little brutes grubbed up the entire left cheek of Calliope, to get -at a grain of corn that had fallen into one of the numerous crow's feet -with which unsparing Time had furrowed the Muse's animated countenance. -Without further observation, therefore, we abandoned the chaste -daughters of Mnemosyne to their ignominious fate, remounted our horses, -and bent our steps homewards. - -The foreigner who visits Seville, under any circumstances, cannot but -find it a most delightful place, and our short sojourn at it was -rendered particularly agreeable by the kindness and hospitality of the -_Marques de las Amarillas_, who, independent of the pleasure it at all -times affords him to show his regard for the English, whom he considers -as his old brothers in arms, was pleased to express peculiar -gratification at having an opportunity of evincing his sense of some -trifling attentions that it had been in my power to pay his only son, -when, as well as himself, driven by political persecution to seek a -refuge within the walls of Gibraltar. - -The life of this distinguished nobleman, now Duke of Ahumado, has been -singularly varied by the smiles and frowns of fortune, and furnishes a -melancholy proof of the little that can be effected by talents, however -exalted, and patriotism, however pure, in a country writhing, like -Spain, under the combined torments of religious and political -revolution. For, the more sincere a lover of his country he who puts -himself forward, _having aught to lose_, may be, the more he becomes an -object of distrust and envy to _the many_, who seek in change but their -own aggrandizement. To him who would take the helm of affairs in times -of revolution, an unscrupulous conscience is yet more necessary than the -possession of extraordinary talents. - -The Marques de las Amarillas, well known in the "Peninsular War" as -General Giron, was appointed minister at war in the first cabinet formed -by Ferdinand VII. after he had sworn to the Constitution. A sincere -lover of rational liberty, and a strong advocate for a mixed form of -government, the Marques, himself a soldier, saw the danger of permitting -the very existence of the government to be at the mercy of the -undisciplined rabble army, that, seduced by its democratic leaders for -their own private ends, had effected the revolution; and had projected a -plan for its partial reduction and entire reorganization. - -The _Exaltados_, however, fearful lest the establishment of a _rational_ -form of government should result from a project which certainly would -have had the effect of allaying the existing agitation, accused the -Marques of a plot to subvert the constitution, and restore Ferdinand to -a despotic throne; and he was obliged to save himself from the impending -danger by a rapid flight, and to take refuge within the walls of -Gibraltar. There he remained during the period of misrule that preceded -the invasion of the country by the Duc d'Angouleme in 1823; suffering, -during the feeble struggle that ensued, from the most painfully -conflicting feelings that could possibly enter a patriot's breast. For, -aware that his unhappy country had but the sad alternative of a -continuance in anarchy and misery, or of bending the neck to foreign -dictation, and receiving back the cast-off yoke of a despot, he could -take no active part in a struggle which, end as it would, was fraught -with mischief to his native land. - -It ended, as he had always foreseen, in the restoration of the -despicable monarch, who possessed neither the courage to draw the sword -in defence of what he conceived to be his _rights_, nor the virtue to -adhere to the word pledged to his people; who by his contemptible -intrigues exposed, and by his vacillating plans sacrificed, his most -devoted adherents; who with his dying breath bequeathed the scourge of -civil war to his wretched country; whose very existence, in fine, was as -hurtful to Spain, as is the odour of the upas-tree to the incautious -traveller who rests beneath its shade. - -The contemptible Ferdinand, restored to his throne, forbade the _Marques -de las Amarillas_ to present himself in the capital--the crime of having -held office in a constitutional cabinet being considered quite -sufficient to warrant the infliction of such a punishment. Some ten -years afterwards, however, he was, through the influence of his -relatives, the Dukes of Baylen and Infantado, appointed captain-general -of Andalusia, and on the death of Ferdinand was called to Madrid, to -form one of the Council of Regency. - -He again held a distinguished post in the Torreno administration, and -again fell under the displeasure of the anarchists--his talents had less -influence than the halbert of Serjeant Gomez. - -These are not merely "_cosas de Espana_," however, but have been, and -will be, those of every country where the hydra, democracy, is -cherished. God grant that our own may be preserved from the many-headed -monster! - -We quitted Seville only "upon compulsion" (our leave of absence being -limited), making choice of a road which, though, by visiting Moron and -Ronda, it proceeds rather circuitously to Gibraltar, traverses a more -romantic and picturesque portion of the Serrania than any other. The -most direct of the numerous roads that offer themselves between Seville -and the British fortress, is by way of Dos Hermanos, Coronil, Ubrique, -and Ximena. - -The first place lying upon the road we selected is Alcala de Guadaira. -This town is distant about eight miles from Seville (though generally -marked much less on the maps), and is the first post station on the -great road from Seville to Madrid. - -For the first five miles from Seville the road traverses a gently -undulated country, that is chiefly planted with corn; but, on drawing -near Alcala, the features of the ground become more strongly marked, and -are clothed with olive and other trees; and amongst the hills that -encompass the town rise the copious springs which, led into a conduit, -supply Seville with water. Alcala administers to yet another of the -great city's most material wants, for it almost exclusively furnishes -Seville with bread, whence it has received the agnomen of "_de los -panaderos_" (of the bread-makers), as well as that of "_de Guadaira_," -which it takes from the river that runs in its vicinity. The numerous -mills situated along the course of this stream, by furnishing easy means -of grinding corn, probably led the inhabitants of Alcala to engage in -the extensive kneading and baking operations which are carried on there. - -The immediate approach to the town is by a narrow gorge between two -steep hills; that on the right, which is the more elevated of the two, -and very rugged and difficult of access, is washed on three sides by the -Guadaira, and crowned with extensive ruins of a Moorish fortress. The -town itself is pent in between these two hills and the river, and, there -can be but little doubt, occupies the site of some Roman city, its -situation being quite such as would have been chosen by that people. - -That it is not on the site of Osset is, as I have before observed, quite -evident, and its present name, being completely Moorish, furnishes no -clue whatever to discover that which it formerly bore. Some have -supposed it is Orippo; but inscriptions found at Dos Hermanos determine -that place to be on the ruins of the said Roman town. Possibly--for such -a supposition accords with the order in which the towns of the county -of Hispalis are mentioned by Pliny--Alcala may be Vergentum. - -It is a long dirty town, full of ovens and charcoal, and contains a -population of 3000 souls. The chaussee to Madrid, by Cordoba, here -branches off to the left; whilst that to Xeres and Cadiz, crossing the -Guadaira, is directed far inland upon Utrera, rendering it extremely -circuitous. A more direct road strikes off from it immediately after -crossing the river, proceeding by way of Dos Hermanos. - -We still continued to pursue the great road, which, after ascending a -range of hills that rises along the left bank of the Guadaira, traverses -a perfectly flat country, abounding in olives, that extends all the way -to Utrera, a distance of eleven miles. - -Utrera thus stands in the midst of a vast plain, that may be considered -the first step from the marshes of the Guadalquivir, towards the Ronda -mountains, which are yet twelve miles distant to the eastward. A slight -mound, that rises in the centre of the town, and is embraced by an -extensive circuit of dilapidated walls, doubtless offered the inducement -to build a town here; and these walls, some parts of which are very -lofty, and in a tolerably perfect state, appear to be Roman, though the -castle and its immediate outworks are Moorish. - -What the ancient name of the town was would, without the help of -monuments or inscriptions, be now impossible to determine, but it -certainly did not lie upon either of the routes laid down in the -Itinerary of Antoninus, between Cadiz and Cordoba, though some have -imagined it to be Ilipa.[56] Others have supposed it to be Siarum; but -adopting Harduin's reading of Pliny--"Caura, Siarum," instead of -Caurasiarum--it seems more likely that Utrera was Caura, and that Moron, -or some other town yet more distant from Seville, was Siarum. - -By its present name it is well known in Moorish history, its rich -_campina_ having frequently been ravaged by the Moslems, after they had -been driven from the open country to seek shelter in the neighbouring -mountains. - -At the present day, it is celebrated only for its breeds of saints and -bulls, the former ranked amongst the most devout, the latter the most -ferocious, of Andalusia. The town is large, and not walled in; the -streets are wide and clean, and a plentiful stream rises near and -traverses the place--remarkable as being the only running water within a -circuit of several miles. It contains 15,000 inhabitants, mostly -agriculturists, and a very tolerable inn. - -Utrera, as has already been observed, is situated on the _arrecife_, or -great road, from Cadiz to Madrid, which _arrecife_ makes two -considerable elbows to visit this place and Alcala. Now from Utrera -there is a cross-road to Carmona (which town is also situated on the -great route to the capital), that, by avoiding Alcala, reduces the -distance between the two places from seven to six leagues; and from -Utrera there is also another cross-road (by way of Arajal) to Ecija, -which, by cutting off another angle made by the _arrecife_, effects a -yet greater saving in the distance to that city, and consequently to -Cordoba and Madrid. From these circumstances, Utrera becomes, in -military phrase, an important _strategical_ point; and as such, the -French, when advancing upon Cadiz in 1810, attempted to gain it by the -cross-road from Ecija, ere the Duke of Albuquerque, who had taken post -at Carmona, with the view of covering Seville, could reach it by the -_arrecife_. The duke, however, with great judgment, abandoned Seville to -what he well knew must eventually be its fate, and by a rapid march -saved Cadiz, though not without having to engage in a cavalry skirmish -to cover his retreat. - -What important consequences hung upon the decision of that moment; for -how different might have been the result of the war, had the important -fortress of Cadiz fallen into the enemy's hands, and given them 30,000 -disposable troops at that critical juncture![57] - -On issuing from Utrera, we once more quit the chaussee (which is -henceforth directed very straight upon Xeres), and, taking an easterly -course, proceed towards a lofty mountain, that, seemingly detached from -the serrated mass, juts slightly forward into the plain. - -At the distance of six miles from Utrera, the ground, which thus far is -quite flat and very barren, begins to be slightly undulated, and is here -and there dotted with _cortijos_ and corn fields; and, at eight miles -from Utrera, a road crosses from Arajah to Coronil; the first-named town -being distant about two miles on the left, the latter half a league on -the right. For the next league the country is one waving corn-field. At -the end of that distance we reached the steep banks of a rivulet, which -here first issues from the mountains, and is called _El Salado de -Moron_. The road crosses to the right bank of this stream, on gaining -which it immediately turns to the north (keeping parallel to the ridge -of the detached mountain, upon which, as I have already noticed, it had -previously been directed), and ascends very gradually towards Moron. The -country, during this latter portion of the road, is partially wooded. -The total distance from Utrera to Moron is about sixteen miles. - -Moron is singularly situated, being nestled in the lap of five distinct -hills, the easternmost and loftiest of which is occupied by an old -castle, a mixed work of the Romans and Moors. - -According to La Martiniere, Moron is on the site of Arunci; and this -opinion seems to rest on a better foundation than that of other authors, -who maintain that Arcos occupies the position of the above-named ancient -city; for it is natural to suppose that the territory of the _Celtici_ -(amongst whose towns _Arunci_ is enumerated by Pliny) did not extend -beyond the intricate belt of mountains known at the present day as the -_Serrania de Ronda_. Now, Moron commands one of the principal entrances -to the Serrania, whereas Arcos is situated far in the plains of the -Guadalete towards Xeres, and would seem rather to have been one of the -cities of the "county of Cadiz." - -Moron is a strong post, for though raised but slightly above the great -plain of Utrera, it commands all the ground in its immediate -neighbourhood; and, standing as it does in a mountain gorge, by which -several roads debouch upon Seville from various parts of the _Serrania_, -it occupies a military position of some consequence. The French guarded -it jealously during the war, and placed the castle in a defensible -state. Since those days its walls have again been dismantled; but the -strength of its position tempted Riego (1820) to try the chances of a -battle with the royal army, commanded by General Josef O'Donnel, ere he -finally abandoned the mountains. - -In vain, however, Riego pointed out to his men the far distant hill of -_Las Cabezas_, where they had first raised the cry of "Constitution, or -death;" their _exaltacion_ had abandoned them, and they in turn -abandoned their exaltation, leaving their strong position after a very -slight resistance. A few days afterwards, at _Fuente Ovejuna_, they were -entirely dispersed. - -The successful general, ready to march either against the insurgents of -the Isla de Leon, or upon the capital, wrote to the king, announcing -that the army of Riego was no more, and requesting to know his commands: -but "_eheu! quam brevibus pereunt ingentia causis!_" a few weeks after -this letter was penned, the victor was a prisoner at Ceuta, and the -vanquished general (without doing any thing in the meanwhile to retrieve -his character) had become the hero of hymns and ballads! The imbecile -Ferdinand, fearful lest, by further delay in accepting the Constitution -he should lose his crown, had despatched orders to those generals who -remained faithful to him, to give up their respective commands, just as -the tide of affairs seemed to be turning in favour of a continuance of -his despotic reign. - -The dispersion of the constitutional army proved two things, however; -the first, that Riego was no general; the second, that he and his party -had deceived themselves as to the political feeling of the inhabitants -of the province. In the course of his rambling operations, Algeciras and -Malaga were the only places where Riego was at all well received. In -vain he tried to maintain himself in the latter city; driven out of it -at the point of the bayonet, he attempted to regain Cadiz, the -head-quarters of the revolt; but, closely pressed by the royal army on -his retreat through the Serrania, was obliged, as I have stated, to -receive battle at Moron, where the disorganization of his force was -completed. - -Moron contains a population of 8,000 souls, and is a well built town, -with wide streets, and good shops. There is a mountain road from hence -to Grazalema (seven leagues) by way of Zahara. The road from Moron to -Ronda passes by Olbera. The distance between the two places is -thirty-one miles. The country, immediately on leaving Moron, becomes -rough and desolate, and the road, (a mere mule-track,) traverses a -succession of strongly marked ridges, which, though not themselves very -elevated, are bounded on all sides by bare and rocky mountains. The -numerous streams which cross the stony pathway all flow to the south, -uniting their waters with the _Salado de Moron_. On penetrating further -into the recesses of the _Serrania_, the valleys become wider, and are -thickly wooded, and the luxuriant growth of the unpruned trees, the -absence of houses, bridges, and all the other signs of the hand of man, -offer a picture of uncultivated nature that could hardly be surpassed -even in the interior of New Zealand. - -At nine miles from Moron is situated the solitary venta of _Zaframagon_, -and, a mile further on, descending by a beautifully wooded ravine, we -reached an isolated rocky mound, under the scarped side of which, -embosomed in groves of orange and pomegranate trees, stands a -picturesque water-mill. From hence to Olbera is seven miles. The country -is of the same wild description as in the preceding portion of the -route, but gradually rises and becomes more bare of trees on drawing -near the little crag-built town. An execrable pave, which appears to -have remained intact since the days of the Romans, winds for the last -two miles under the chain of hills over whose narrow summit the houses -of Olbera are spread, rising one above another towards an old castle -perched on the pinnacle of a rocky cone. - -By some Spanish antiquaries, Olbera has been supposed to be the _Ilipa_ -mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, as being on the _second_ route laid -down between Cadiz and Cordoba, passing by Antequera. This route, by the -way, is not a less strange one to lay down between the two cities, than -a post road from London to Dover _by way of Brighton_ would be -considered by us; but the fancy of winding it through the least -practicable part of the mountains of Ronda, from Seville (if, as some -imagine, it first went to that city) to Antequera, is even yet more -strange, since a nearly level tract of country extends between those two -cities in a more direct line. - -Considering it, however, merely as a military way, made by the Romans to -connect the principal cities of the province, and serving in case of -need as a communication between Cadiz and Cordoba, _avoiding Seville_; a -much more probable line may be laid down, on which the distances will be -found to agree infinitely better.[58] - -Olbera is a wretched place, containing some 3,000 or 4,000 of the rudest -looking, and, if report speak true, of the least scrupulous, inhabitants -of the Serrania. Their lawless character has already been alluded to, -and, in Rocca's Memoirs, a most interesting account is given of their -reception of him, when, with a party of dragoons, he was on the march -from Moron to Ronda. - -His description of the rickety old town-house, wherein he saved his life -from an infuriated mob by making a fat priest serve as a shield, is most -correctly given, and, in the present dark, suspicious-looking, -cloak-enveloped inhabitants, one may readily picture to one's-self the -descendants of the men who skinned a dead ass, and gave it to the French -troopers for beef; ever after jeering them by asking "_Quien come carne -de burra en Olbera?_ Who eats asses'-flesh at Olbera?" - - Carula (Puebla de Santa Maria) 24 - Ilipa (Grazalema) 18 - Ostippo[59] (La Torre de Alfaquime) 14 - Barba (Almargen) 20 - Anticaria (Antequera) 24 - Angellas 23 - Ipagro 20 - Ulia 10 - Cordoba 18 - ---- - Total 294[60] - ---- - -The view from the old castle is very commanding; the outline of the -amphitheatre of mountains is bold and varied, and the valleys between -the different masses are richly wooded. To the south may be seen the -rocky little fortress of Zahara, sheltered by the huge _Sierra del -Pinar_; and only about two miles distant from Olbera to the north, is -the old castle of Pruna, similarly situated on a conical hill that -stands detached from a lofty impending mountain. - -Olbera is fourteen miles from Ronda. At the distance of rather more than -a mile, a large convent, _N. S. de los Remedios_, stands on the right of -the road, and a little way beyond this, the road descends by a narrow -ravine towards _La Torre de Alfaquime_, and, after winding round the -foot of the cone whereon that little town is perched, reaches and -crosses the Guadalete. This point is about four miles from Olbera. The -stream issues from a dark ravine in the mountains that rise up on the -left of the road, and serves to irrigate a fertile valley, and turn -several mills that here present themselves. - -A road to Setenil is conducted through the narrow gorge whence the -little river issues, but that to Ronda, ascending for three quarters of -an hour, reaches the summit of a lofty mountain on whose eastern -acclivity are strewed the extensive ruins of Acinippo. - -The view is remarkably fine; to the westward, extending as far as -Cadiz, and in the opposite direction looking down upon a wide, smiling -valley, watered by the numerous sources of the Guadalete, and upon the -little castellated town of Setenil, perched on the rocky bank of the -principal branch of that river. This place was very celebrated in the -days of the Moslems, having resisted every attack of the Christians,[61] -until the persevering "_Reyes Catolicos_" brought artillery to bear upon -its defences. - -The road to Ronda descends for two miles, and then keeps for about the -same distance along the banks of the Guadalete, crossing and recrossing -it several times. The surrounding country is one vast corn-field. -Leaving, at length, this rich vale, the road ascends a short but steep -ridge, whence the first view is obtained of the yet more lovely basin of -Ronda, which, clothed with orchards and olive grounds, and surrounded on -all sides by splendid mountains, is justly called the pride of the -Serrania. - -A good stone bridge affords a passage across the _Rio Verde_, or of -Arriate, about a mile above its junction with the Guadiaro; and the road -falls in with that from Grazalema on reaching the top of the hill -whereon the town stands. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - RONDA TO GAUCIN--ROAD TO CASARES--FINE SCENERY--CASARES--DIFFICULTY - IN PROCURING LODGINGS--FINALLY OVERCOME--THE CURA'S HOUSE--VIEW OF - THE TOWN FROM THE RUINS OF THE CASTLE--ITS GREAT STRENGTH--ANCIENT - NAME--IDEAS OF THE SPANIARDS REGARDING PROTESTANTS--SCRAMBLE TO THE - SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA CRISTELLINA--SPLENDID VIEW--JEALOUSY OF THE - NATIVES IN THE MATTER OF SKETCHING--THE CURA AND HIS - BAROMETER--DEPARTURE FOR THE BATHS OF MANILBA--ROMANTIC - SCENERY--ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITERS--THE MASTER OF THE - CEREMONIES--ROADS TO SAN ROQUE AND GIBRALTAR--RIVER GUADIARO AND - VENTA. - - -Ronda and the road from thence to Gaucin have been already fully -described; I will, therefore, pass on, without saying more of either -than that, if the road be one of the _worst_, the scenery along it -equals any to be met with in the south of Spain. The road was formerly -practicable for carriages throughout, but it is now purposely suffered -to go to decay, lest it should furnish Gibraltar with greater facilities -than that great commercial mart already possesses, for destroying the -manufactures of Spain--such, at least, is the excuse offered for the -present wretched state of the road. - -From the rock-built castle of Gaucin we will descend--by what, though -called a road, is little more than a rude flight of steps practised in -the side of the mountain--to the deep valley of the Genal, and, crossing -the pebbly bed of the stream, take a path which, winding through a dense -forest of cork and ilex, is directed round the northern side of the -peaked mountain of _Cristellina_, to a pass between it and the more -distant and wide-spreading _Sierra Bermeja_. - -The scenery, as one advances up the steep acclivity, is remarkably fine. -I do not recollect having any where seen finer woods; and the occasional -glimpses of the glassy Genal, winding in the dark valley below; the -numerous shining little villages that deck its green banks; the -outstretched town of Gaucin and ruined battlements of its impending -castle covering the ridge on the opposite side, and backed by the -distant mountains of Ubrique, Grazalema, &c., furnish all the requisites -for a perfect picture. - -Soon after gaining the summit of the wooded chain, the road branches in -two, that on the left hand proceeding to Estepona, the other to Casares. -Taking the latter, we emerged from the forest in about a quarter of an -hour, and found ourselves at the head of a deep and confined valley, -which, overhung by the scarped peaks of Cristellina on one side, is -bounded on the other by a narrow ridge that, stretching several miles -to the south, terminates in a high conical knoll crowned by the castle -of Casares. - -The road, which is very good, keeps under the crest of the left-hand -ridge, descending for two miles, and very gradually, towards the town. -The view on approaching Casares is remarkably fine, embracing, besides -the picturesque old fortress, an extensive prospect over the apparently -champaign country beyond, which (marked, nevertheless, with many a -wooded dell and rugged promontory,) spreads in all directions towards -the Mediterranean; the dark, cloud-capped rock of Gibraltar rising -proudly from the shining surface of the narrow sea, and overtopping all -the intervening ridges. - -Before reaching Casares, the mountain, along the side of which the road -is conducted, falls suddenly several hundred feet, and a narrow ledge -connects it with the conical mound more to the south, whereon the castle -is perched. The town occupies the summit of this connecting link--which -in one part is so narrow as to afford little more than the space -sufficient for one street--but extends, also, some way round the bases -and up the rude sides of the two impending heights, thus assuming the -shape of an hour-glass. - -Having reached the _Plaza_,--and a tolerably spacious one it is -considering the little ground the town has to spare for -embellishments,--we looked about for the usual signs of a _venta_, but, -failing in discovering any, applied to the bystanders for information, -who, pointing to a wretched hovel, on the wall of which was painted a -shield, bearing, in heraldic language, gules, a bottle sable, told us it -was the only _Ventorillo_[62] in the town. - -Now, though it is a common saying that "good wine needs no bush," we had -yet to learn that dirty floors need no broom; and, unwilling to be the -first to gain experience in the matter, we determined, after a minute -examination of the house, to present ourselves to the _Alcalde_, and, in -virtue of our passports, ask his "aid and assistance" in procuring -better quarters. - -The unusual sight of a party of strange travellers had brought that -important personage himself into the market-place, who, collecting round -him the principal householders of the town, forthwith laid our -distressing case before them, and, in his turn, asked for aid and -assistance in the shape of advice. - -Our papers were accordingly handed round the standing council, and, -having been minutely inspected, turned upside down, the lion and unicorn -duly admired, the great seal of the Governor of Gibraltar examined with -eyes of astonishment, and the question asked "_Son Ingleses?_"[63] -(which was excusable, considering the absurdity of giving passports in -_French_ to English travellers in _Spain_) a shrug of the shoulders -seemed all that the _Alcalde_ was likely to get in the way of advice, or -we in the lieu of board and lodging. - -Guessing at last, by the oft-repeated question concerning our -nationality, "_De que pie cojeaba el negocio_";[64] we took occasion to -signify to the conclave, that a few dollars would most willingly be paid -for any inconvenience the putting us up for the night might occasion. -Our prospects immediately brightened; each had now "_una salita_," that -he could very well spare for a night or so ... "we had our own _mantas_, -so that we should require but mattresses to lie down upon--and as for -stabling, that there was no loss for"--in fact, the only difficulty -appeared to be, how the Alcalde should avoid giving offence to a dozen, -by selecting _one_ to confer the favour of our company upon. - -He saw the delicacy of his position, and hesitated--"he himself, indeed, -had a spare room, but ..." here a portly personage, clothed in a black -silk cassock, and sheltered by an ample shovel hat, stepped forward to -relieve the embarrassed functionary from his dilemma; and giving him a -nod, and us a beckon, drew his _toga_ up behind, and walked off at a -brisk pace towards the castle hill. - -The claims of _El Senor Cura_--for such our conductor proved to be--no -one presumed to dispute; so making our bow to the _Alcalde_, who assured -us that - - _Quien a buen arbol se arrima_ - _buena sombra le cobija_,[65] - -we followed the footsteps of the worthy member of the Church -Hospitaliar, without further colloquy. - -Our conductor stopped not, and spoke not, until we had reached the very -top of the town, and then, leading our horses into a commodious stable, -he ushered us into his own abode; wherein he assured us, if the -accommodation he could offer was suitable, "we had but to _mandar_." It -consisted of a large _sala_ and an _alcoba_, or recess, for a bed; the -latter scrupulously clean, the former lofty and airy. We, therefore, -expressed our entire satisfaction, requesting only that a couple of -mattresses might be spread upon the floor; a friend, who had joined us -at Gaucin, rendering this increase of accommodation necessary. - -Having given instructions to that effect, Don Francisco Labato--for such -our host informed us were his _nombre y appellido_,[66] not omitting to -add, that he was a _clerigo beneficiado_[67]--proposed to accompany us, -to cast an ojeada[68] upon the curious old town, from the ruined -battlements of its ancient fortress; observing that there was yet -abundance of time to do so, "ere Phoebus took his evening plunge into -the western ocean." - -We gladly accepted the proffered ciceroneship of our classical host, -and, mounting the rugged pathway up the isolated crag, in a few minutes -reached the plateau at its summit. It would be hardly possible to select -a less convenient site for a town than that occupied by Casares. Pent in -to the north and south between impracticable crags, and bounded on the -other two sides by deep ravines; it can, in fact, be reached only, -either by describing a wide circuit to gain the mountains, rising at its -back; or, by ascending a rough winding path, practised in the side of -the castle hill. - -The principal part of the town is clustered round the base of the old -fortress, the houses rising one above another in steps, as it were, and -occupying no more of the valuable space than is necessary to give them a -secure foundation. The streets, which are barely wide enough to allow a -paniered donkey to pass freely, are formed out of the live rock, and, -here and there, are cut in wide steps, to render the ascent less -difficult and dangerous. These flat slabs of native limestone, when -heated by a summer sun, though passable enough by unshod animals, afford -but a precarious footing to a horse's iron-bound hoofs. - -The castle can only be approached through the town, and although its -walls have long been in ruins, yet, so strong are its natural defences, -that the muzzles of a few rusty old guns, propped up by stones, and -protruded from the prostrate parapets, were sufficient to deter the -French from making any attempt upon the place during the war of -independence:--such, at least, is the version of the inhabitants. - -That Casares was a Roman town is almost proved by the name it yet bears; -but the matter is placed beyond a doubt on examining the old foundations -of the castle, which are clearly of a date anterior to the occupation of -Spain by the Saracens. - -The name it anciently bore strikes me as being equally obvious, viz., -_Caesaris Salutariensis_; so designated from the mineral waters in its -neighbourhood, which, though _now_ known by the name of the modern town -of Manilba, are within the _termino_ of Casares. For, not only were the -valuable properties of these springs well known to the Romans, but, -according to the common belief in the country, they performed a -wonderful cure on one of the emperors--Trajan, I think. - -_Caesaris Salutariensis_ is mentioned by Pliny, amongst the Latin towns -of the _conventus gaditanus_; the limits of which country may, at first -sight, appear to be somewhat stretched to include Casares; but -Barbesula, which stood at the mouth of the river Guadiaro, at an equal -distance from Cadiz, (as is clearly proved by inscriptions found there,) -is also mentioned by that excellent authority as one of the stipendiary -towns of the same county; and the order in which they are enumerated, -viz., those first which were nearest to the capital, tends to confirm my -supposition. - -On our return from the old castle, which commands a splendid view, we -were not displeased to find that our host was no despiser of the good -things of this world, much as he gave us to understand that all his -thoughts were directed towards the never-ending joys of that which is to -come. Every thing bespoke a well-conducted _menage_; the house, besides -being clean and tastily decorated with flowers, was provided with some -solid comforts. The _Cura's niece_--his housekeeper, butler, and -factotum--was pretty, as well as intelligent and obliging. His _cuisine_ -was tolerably free from garlic and grease, his wine from aniseed. Our -horses were up to their knees in fresh straw; and three clean beds were -prepared for ourselves. - -Our host excused himself from partaking of our meal, he having already -dined, and, whilst we were doing justice to his good catering, paced up -and down the room pretending to read, but in reality watching our -movements, and, as it at first struck us, looking after his silver -spoons: but divers testy hints given to his bright-eyed niece that her -constant attendance upon us was unnecessary, soon made it evident that -_she_ was the object of his solicitude; as, judging from the occasional -direction of our eyes, he rightly conjectured what was the subject of -our conversation. Anon, however, he would approach the table, thrust the -volume of Homilies under his left arm, and, taking a pinch of snuff, -(which he said was "_bueno para el estudio_"[69]) ask our way of -thinking on various subjects, political and theological, always -prefacing his interrogatories by some observation, either on his passion -for study, the cosmopolitan bent of his mind, or the superiority his -learning gave him over the vulgar prejudices of the age. And, at length, -when the table was cleared, the niece gone, and he had elicited from us -that we were all three _English_, he observed, without further -circumlocution, "_Pues Senores_, you are not members of the _Santa -Iglesia, Catolica Romana_?" - -"No," we replied, "_Catolica_ but not _Romana_." - -"That is to say, you are heretical Christians." - -"That is to say, we differ with you as regards the corporeal nature of -the elements partaken of in the Eucharist; we deny the efficacy of -masses; the power of granting indulgences; and the necessity for -auricular confession:--and so far certainly we are heretics in the eyes -of the church of Rome." - -The worthy _Cura_--much as he had studied--was by no means aware that -our pretensions to Catholicism were so great as, on continuing the -controversy, he discovered them to be.[70] He made a stout stand, -however, for the absolute necessity of auricular confession; maintaining -that we, by dispensing with it, deprived the poor and ignorant of a -friend, a counsellor, and an intercessor;--stript our church of the -power of reclaiming sinners, and checking growing heresies;--and our -government of the means of anticipating the mischievous projects of -designing men. - -It was in vain we urged to our host that, in our favoured country, -education had done away with the necessity for strengthening the hands -of government by such means; that the poor were provided for by law; and -that the clergy were ever ready to counsel and assist those who stood in -need of spiritual consolation. But, before leaving us for the night, the -_Padre_ admitted that _we_ were certainly Christians, and that many of -the mysteries and practices of the Church of Rome were merely preserved -to enable the clergy to maintain their influence over the people;--an -influence which we deemed quite necessary for the well-being of the -state. - -Rising betimes on the following morning, we set off on foot to clamber -to the lofty peak of the _Sierra Cristellina_; and regular climbing it -was, for all traces of a footpath were soon lost, and we then had to -mount the precipitous face of the cone in the best way we could. The -magnificence of the view from the summit amply repaid us for the fatigue -and loss of shoe-leather we had to bear with; for, though scarcely 2000 -feet above the level of the sea, the peak stands so completely detached -from all other mountains, that it affords a bird's eye view which could -be surpassed only by that from a balloon. The entire face of the -country was spread out like a map before us. To the north, penned in on -all sides by savage mountains, lay the wide, forest-covered valley of -the Genal, its deeply furrowed sides affording secure though but scanty -lodgment to the numerous little fastnesses scattered over them by the -persecuted _Mudejares_, when expelled from the more fertile plains of -the Guadalquivir and Guadalete; and on which castellated crags the -swarthy descendants of these "mediatised" Moors still continue to reside -and bid defiance to civilization. - -These little strongholds stand for the most part on the summit of rocky -knolls that jut into the dark valley; and round the base of each a small -extent of the forest has in most cases been cleared, serving, in times -past, to improve its means of defence, and, at the present day, to admit -the sun to shine upon the vineyards, in the cultivation of which the -rude inhabitants find employment, when, obliged for a time to lay aside -the smuggler's blunderbuss, they take to the axe and pruning-knife. -Behind, serving as a kind of citadel to these numerous outworks, rises -the huge _Sierra Bermeja_, which afforded a last refuge to the -persecuted Moslems; and at its very foot, about five miles up the valley -of the Genal, are the ruins of _Benastepar_; the birth-place of the -Moorish hero, _El Feri_, whose courage and address so long baffled the -exterminating projects of the Spaniards. - -Turning now round to the south, a totally different, and yet more -magnificent, view meets the eye. Gibraltar,--its lovely bay,--the -African mountains, rising range above range,--and the distant Atlantic, -successively present themselves: whilst, from the height at which we are -raised above the intermediate country, the courses of the different -rivers, that issue from the gorges of the sierras at our back, may be -distinctly followed through all their windings to the Mediterranean, the -features of the intervening ground appearing to be so slightly marked as -to lead to the supposition that the country below must be perfectly -accessible;--but, as one of our party drily observed, those who, like -himself, had followed red-legged partridges across it could tell a -different story. - -We returned to Casares by descending the eastern side of the mountain, -which is planted with vines to within a short distance of the summit. In -fact, wherever a little earth can be scraped together, a root is -inserted. The wine made from the grapes grown on this bank is considered -the best of Casares; it is not unlike Cassis--small, but highly -flavoured. The town, looked down upon in this direction, has a singular -appearance, seeming to stand on a high cliff overhanging the -Mediterranean shore, though, in reality, it is six or seven miles from -it. - -We amused ourselves during the rest of the afternoon in taking sketches -of the town from various points in the neighbourhood, and excited the -wrath of some passers-by to a furious degree. They swore we were -_mapeando el pueblo_,[71] and that they would have us arrested; but we -were strong in our innocence, and turned a deaf ear to their menaces. It -is, however, a practice that is often attended with annoying -consequences; for I have known several instances of English officers -having been taken before the military authorities for merely sketching a -picturesque barn or cork tree--so great is the national jealousy. - -At our evening meal, our host, as on the former occasion walked -book-in-hand up and down the room, but was evidently less watchful of -his pretty niece and silver spoons. His attention, indeed, appeared to -be entirely given to the state of the mercury in an old barometer, -which, appended to the wall at the further end of the room, he consulted -at every turn, putting divers weatherwise questions to us as he did so. -And at last, he asked in plain language, whether our church ever put up -prayers for rain, and if they ever brought it. - -The occasion of all this _pumping_ we found to be, that the country in -the neighbourhood having long been suffering from drought, the -husbandmen, apprehensive of the consequences, had for some days past -been urging him to pray for rain, but the state of the barometer had not -hitherto, he said, warranted his doing so, and he had, therefore, put -them off, on various pretences. "Yesterday, however," he observed, -"seeing that the mercury was falling, I gave notice that I should make -intercession for them; and, I think, judging from present appearances, -that my prayers are likely to be as effectual as those of any bishop -could possibly be." And off he started to church, giving us, at parting, -a very significant, though somewhat heterodoxical grin. - -Nevertheless, not a drop of rain fell that night; the barometer was at -fault; and the only clouds visible in the morning were those gathered on -the brow of the _Cura_. They dispersed, however, like mist under the -sun's rays; when, bidding him farewell, and thanking him for his -hospitable entertainment, we slipped a _doublon de a ocho_ into his -hand; which, pocketing without the slightest hesitation, he assured us, -with imperturbable gravity, should be applied to the services of the -_church_--"as, doubtless, we intended." - -Threading once more the rudely _graduated_ streets of the town, we took -the stony pathway, before noticed, which winds down under the eastern -side of the castle hill, and in rather more than half an hour were again -beyond the limits of the Serrania, and in a country of corn and pasture. - -At the foot of the mountain two roads present themselves, one proceeding -straight across the country to San Roque and Gibraltar (nineteen and -twenty-five miles), the other seeking more directly the Mediterranean -shore, and visiting on its way the sulphur-baths and little town of -Manilba. - -The _Cura_ had spoken in such terms of commendation of the _Hedionda_ -(fetid spring)--claiming it jealously as the property of Casares--that -we were tempted to lengthen our journey by a few miles to pay it a -visit. - -The road to it follows the course of the little stream that flows in the -valley between the Cristellina mountain and Casares, which, escaping by -a narrow rocky gorge immediately below the town, winds round the foot of -the castle crag, and takes an easterly direction to the Mediterranean. -The country at first is open, and the stream flows through a smiling -valley, without encountering any obstacle; but, at about two miles from -Casares, a dark and narrow defile presents itself, which, the winding -rivulet having in vain sought to avoid, finally precipitates itself -into, and is lost sight of, under an entangled canopy of arbutus, -lauristinus, clematis, and various creepers. So narrow and overshadowed -is the chasm, so high and precipitous are its bank--themselves overgrown -with coppice and forest-trees, wherever the crumbling rocks have allowed -their roots to spread--that even the sunbeams have difficulty in -reaching the foaming stream, as it hurries over its rough and tortuous -bed; and the pathway, following the various windings of the narrow -gorge,--now keeping along the shady bank of the rivulet, now climbing, -by rudely carved zig-zags, some little way up the precipitous sides of -the fissure,--is barely of a width to admit of the passage of a loaded -mule. - -So wildly beautiful is the scenery, so free from artificial -embellishments,--for the low moss-grown water-mills which are scattered -along the course of the stream, and here and there a rustic bridge, owe -their beauty rather to nature than art--so _romantic_, in fine, is the -spot, that, if in the vicinity of a fashionable _baden_, it could not -fail of being a little fortune to all the ragged donkey-drivers within a -circuit of many leagues, and of proving a mine of wealth to the -surveyors of _tables d'hotes_, and _restaurans_, and keepers of billiard -and faro tables. - -The amusements of the frequenters of the humble _Hedionda_ are, however, -very different, and the sequestered dell is visited only by chanting -muleteers, driving their files of laded animals to or from the mills; -or, perchance, by some sulphurated old lady, who, ensconced in a -pillowed _jamuga_,[72] is bending her way, with renovated health, -towards Casares or Ximena: to which places the narrow fissure offers the -nearest road from the baths. - -After proceeding about a mile down the dark ravine, its banks, crumbling -down in rude blocks, recede from each other, and a huge barren sierra is -discovered rising steeply along the southern bank of the stream, to -which the road now crosses. It greatly excited our surprise how this -lofty and strongly marked ridge could have escaped our observation from -Casares, for it had seemed to us, that on descending from thence we -should leave the mountains altogether behind us. - -From the base of this barren ridge issues the _Hedionda_; still, -however, about a mile from us; and ere reaching it, the hills retiring -for a time yet more from the stream, leave a flat space of some extent, -and in form resembling an amphitheatre, which is planted with all kinds -of fruit-trees, and dotted with vine-clung cottages. This spot is called -_La Huerta_--the orchard; and these comfortless looking little -hovels--pleasing nevertheless to the eye--we eventually learnt are the -lodging-houses of the most aristocratic visiters of the baths. - -Traversing the fruitful little dell, and mounting a low rocky ledge that -completes its enclosure to the east, leaving only a narrow passage for -the rivulet, we found ourselves close to the baths; our vicinity to -which, however, the offensive smell of the spring (prevailing even over -the strong perfume of the orange blossoms) had already duly apprized us -of. - -The baths are situated almost in the bed of the pure mountain stream, -whose course we had been following from Casares; and a short distance -beyond, and at a slight elevation above them, stands a neat and compact -little village. - -The season being at its height, we found the place so crowded with -visiters, that it would have been impossible to procure a night's -lodging, had such been our wish. All we required, however, was -information concerning the place; for which purpose we repaired to the -_Fonda_,--a kind of booth, such as is knocked up at fairs in England for -the sale of gin, "and other cordials,"--and ordered such refreshment as -it afforded, asking the _Moza_[73] if she could tell us whether any of -the houses were vacant, &c. - -She replied, that the Fonda was provided with every thing necessary for -travellers of distinction, being established on the footing of the -hotels "_de mas fama_" of Malaga and San Roque; and that _El Senor -Juan_, the "_intendente_"[74] of the place,--who, doubtless, on hearing -of our arrival, would forthwith pay his respects to us,--could furnish -every sort of information respecting it. - -Oh! a master of the ceremonies, with his book, thought we--well, this -will be amusing: some urbane "captain," no doubt, all smiles to all -persons!--and whilst we were yet picturing to ourselves what this -Spanish Beau Nash could possibly be like, a tall ungainly personage, -with a considerable halt in his gait, a fund of humour in his long -leathern countenance, and a paper cigar screwed up in the dexter corner -of his mouth, presented himself, and placed his services at our -disposition. - -He held a huge pitcher of the fragrant water in one hand, which, when he -was in motion, gave him a "lurch to starboard;" a stout staff in the -other, by means of which he established an equilibrium when at rest. His -body was coatless, his neck cravatless, his shirt sleeves were rolled up -to the elbow, leaving his brown sinewy arms bare; his trowsers hung in -braceless negligence about his hips; his large bare feet were thrust -into a pair of capacious shoes; and his head was covered with a -high-crowned, narrow-brimmed, Frenchified hat, which had evidently -browned under the heat of many summers, and bent to the storms of -intervening winters. Round his neck hung a stout silver chain (which the -fumes of the sulphur-spring had turned as black as Berlin iron), whence -was suspended a ponderous master-key. - -"He must be the prison-keeper," said we, "carrying the daily allowance -of water to the incarcerated malefactors!" - -"This is _Senor Juan, el intendente_," said our smirking attendant, -placing a bottle of wine upon the table before us. - -"Oh! this is _Senor Juan_, the master of the ceremonies!--Then pray be -seated, _Senor Juan_; and bring another wine-glass, _Mariquita_." - -Our requests were instantly complied with; and in half an hour we had -disengaged from the numberless "_por supuestos, conques_," and "_pues_," -with which Senor Juan interlarded his conversation, and from the smoky -exhalations in which he enveloped it, all the information we required -concerning the baths, though by no means so full an account of them as -the gossip-loving _Tio_ seemed disposed to give us. So pleased were we, -however, with his description of the amusements of the place, and of the -valuable properties of its waters, that, assuring him we should take an -early opportunity of renewing his acquaintance, and commending him to -the care of _San Juan Nepomaceno_, we arose, and took our departure. - -I was not long in performing my promise. Indeed, I became an annual -visiter to the baths for a few days during the shooting season; and will -devote the following chapter to a more particular description of the -_Hedionda_, and the manner of life at a Spanish watering-place. - -The mule-track from the baths to Gibraltar--for during the first few -miles it is little else--keeps down the valley for some little distance, -and then, ascending a steep hill, joins at its summit a road leading to -Casares from Manilba; which latter little town is seen about -three-quarters of a mile off, on the left. This road to Casares turns -the _sierra_ overhanging the baths on its western side, where it meets -with some flat, nearly table-land; but our route to Gibraltar, after -keeping along it a few hundred yards, strikes off to the left, and, -traversing a wild and very broken country, in something more than three -miles forms its junction with the road from the town of Manilba to San -Roque and Gibraltar, which again, half a mile further on, falls into the -road from Malaga to those two places. This spot is distant five miles -from the baths, and rather more than two from the river Guadiaro. - -Near some farm-houses on the left bank of this river, and about a mile -from its mouth, are ruins of the Roman town of _Barbesula_. Some -monuments and inscriptions found here, many years since, were carried to -Gibraltar. - -The bed of the Guadiaro is wide but shallow, and offers two fords, which -are practicable at most seasons. There is a ferry-boat kept, however, at -the upper point of passage, for cases of necessity. A venta is situated -on the right bank of the stream, whereat a bevy of custom-house people -generally assemble to levy contributions on the passers-by. It is a -wretched place of accommodation, though better than another, distant -about a mile further, on the road to Gibraltar, and well known to the -sportsmen of the garrison by the name of _pan y agua_--bread and -water--those being the only supplies that the establishment can be -depended upon to furnish. Its vicinity to some excellent snipe ground -occasions it to be much resorted to in the winter. - -At the first-named venta, two roads present themselves, that on the -right hand proceeding to San Roque, (eight miles,) the other seeking the -coast and keeping along it to Gibraltar--a distance of twelve miles. - -The country traversed by the former is very rugged, but the path is, -nevertheless, unnecessarily circuitous. In various places--but a little -off the road--are vestiges of an old paved route, which, it is by no -means improbable, was the Roman way from _Barbesula_ to _Carteia_, of -which further notice will be taken, when the coast road from Malaga to -Gibraltar is described. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - THE BATHS OF MANILBA--A SPECIMEN OF FABULOUS HISTORY--PROPERTIES OF - THE HEDIONDA--SOCIETY OF THE BATHING VILLAGE--REMARKABLE - MOUNTAIN--AN ENGLISH BOTANIST--TOWN OF MANILBA--AN INTRUSIVE - VISITER--RIDE TO ESTEPONA--RETURN BY WAY OF CASARES. - - -The baths of Manilba lie about seventeen miles N.N.E. of Gibraltar, and -four, inland, from the sea-fort of Savanilla. The town, from which they -take their name, is about midway between them and the coast; and, -standing on a commanding knoll, is a conspicuous object when sailing -along the Mediterranean shore. - -The virtues of the sulphureous spring have long been known; but it is -only within the last few years that the increasing reputation of the -medicated source led a company of speculators to build the village which -now stands in its vicinity; the scattered cottages of the _Huerta_ -having been found quite incapable of lodging the vast crowd of -valetudinarians, annually drawn to the spot. The same parties have yet -more recently erected a chapel, and also the _Fonda_, mentioned in the -preceding chapter. - -The little village is built with the regularity of even Wiesbaden -itself, but nothing can well be more different in other respects than it -is from that, or any other watering-place, which I have ever visited. It -consists of five or six parallel stacks of houses, forming streets which -open at one end upon the bank overhanging the now sulphurated stream, -that flows down from Casares; and which abut, at the other, against the -side of the lofty mountain whence the medicated spring issues. These -streets are covered in with trellis-work, over which vines are trained, -rendering them cool, as well as agreeable to the sight. The houses are -all built on a uniform plan, namely, they have no upper story, and -contain but _one room each_; which room is furnished with the usual -Spanish kitchen-range--that is, with three or four little bricked stoves -built into a kind of dresser. By this arrangement, every room is, of -itself, capable of forming a _complete establishment_; and in most -cases, indeed, it does serve the triple purposes of a kitchen, a -refectory, and a dormitory, to its frugal inmates. When a family is -large, however, an entire lareet must be hired for its accommodation. - -The principal speculator in the joint-stock village is a gentleman of -Estepona; and _El Senor Juan_--or _Tio Juan_, as he is familiarly -called by those admitted to his intimacy--is a poor relative, who, for -the slight perquisites of office, readily undertook the charge of the -infant establishment. - -The choice of the _Tio_ was, in every respect, a judicious one; for, -having drunk himself off the crutches on which he hobbled down to the -baths, he has become a kind of walking advertisement of the efficacy of -the waters. He is not, however, like the unsightly fellows who -perambulate the streets of London with placards, a silent one; for I -know of no man more thoroughly versed in the art of _viva voce_ puffing -than _Tio Juan_; and then he has stored his memory with such a fund of -useful watering-place information, that he is a perfect guide to the -_Hedionda_ and its environs. - -The _Tio_ and I soon became wonderful cronies; I derived great amusement -from his _cuentas_--he, much gratification from my nightly whisky-toddy. -In fact, the two dovetailed into each other in a most remarkable manner; -for, when once the _Tio_ had attached one of his long stories to a -(_pint_) bottle of "poteen," there was no possibility of separating -them--they drew cork and breath together, and together only they came to -a conclusion. - -He knew every body that visited the baths, and every thing about them; -could point out those who came for health, and those who were allured -by dissipation; could tell which ladies and gentlemen were looking out -for matrimony, which for intrigue; whether the buxom widow had fruitful -vineyards and olive grounds with her weeds; whether the young ladies had -shining _onzas_ to recommend them as well as sparkling eyes. - -Then the Tio knew where every medicinal herb grew that was suited to any -given case--could point out the haunt of every covey of red-legged -partridges in the vicinity--could tell to an hour when a flight of quail -would cross from the parched shores of Africa--when the matchless -_becafigos_ would alight upon the neighbouring fig-trees--and, as the -season advanced, he would mark the time to a nicety when the first -annual visit of the woodcocks might be looked for to the wooded glens -beyond the baths. - -As the historian of the wonder-working spring, the _Tio_ was not less -valuable; though, it must be confessed, the terms in which he conveyed -the idea of its vast antiquity were any thing but prepossessing; viz., -"_Pues! saben ustedes, que esa hedionda es mas vieja que la sarna._" -"Know then, gentlemen, that this fetid spring is older than the itch." -In other respects, however, the information he had collected, besides -being most rare, possessed a freshness that was truly delightful; -"_Siglos hay_,[75]" he would continue, "the spring was _endemoniado_, -for _Carlomagno_, or some other great hero of the most remote antiquity, -drove an evil spirit into the mountain, which said spirit, to be -revenged on mankind, poisoned the source whence the stream flows. Saint -James, however, arriving in the country soon after--having taken Spain -under his especial protection--determined to expel this imp of Satan. -This was done accordingly, and the devil went over into Barbary, (where -he eventually stirred up the Moors against the adopted children of -_Santiago_--the story of _Don Rodrigo_ and _La Cava_ being all a fable,) -leaving nothing but his sulphur behind." - -"The good saint, to perpetuate the fame of the miracle he had wrought, -next determined to endue the spring with extraordinary curative -properties; not depriving it, however, of the unusually bad smell left -by the devil, that the marvellous work he was about to perform might be -the more apparent to future generations." - -"Some years after this, the baths were visited by '_muchos emperadores -de Roma_;'[76] amongst others, Trajan and Hercules; as also by the -famous Roland; and, '_segun dicen_,' by _un Ingles, llamado Malbru, y -otra gente muy principal_."[77] "In those days," continued the Tio, -"there were _palathios, posa'a, y to'o_,[78] but then came the Moors -(with the devil in their train), and laid every thing waste. They had -not the power, however, to deprive the stream of its virtues; and great -they are, and most justly celebrated _por todo la Espana_."[79] - -In detailing the wonderful properties of the spring committed to his -charge, _Tio Juan_ would enter with all the minuteness of an Herodotus. -By his account, there was no ailment to which suffering humanity is -exposed that it would not reach. It was a "universal medicine"--a -Hygeian fountain that bestowed perpetual youth--a Styx that rendered -mankind invulnerable. It gave strength to the weak, and ease to those -who were in pain--rendered the barren fruitful, and the splenetic, -good-humoured--made the fat, lean, and the lean, fat. By it the good -liver was freed from gout, and the bad liver from bile. The sores of the -leper were dried up, and the lungs of the asthmatic inflated--it made -the maimed whole, and patched up the broken-hearted. He had known many -instances of its curing consumption, and had seen it act like a charm in -cases of tympany. - -"In fact," said old Juan--"_para todo tiene remedio_.--_Mir' -usted_[80]--I, who on my arrival here could not put a foot to the -ground, now, as you may perceive, walk about like a _Jovencito_;[81] -and, under proper directions, I have no doubt it would make a man live -for ever."[82] - -Nor did the long list of the water's valuable qualities end here. It was -good for all the common purposes of life--for stewing and for -boiling--for washing and for shaving;--and, to wind up all, as we go on -sinning, until, by constant repetition, crime no longer pricks one's -conscience, so, the _Tio_ declared, one went on drinking this devilish -water until it positively became palatable. "_Jo no bebo otra_," he -concluded, "_nunca bebo otra--guiso y to'o con ella_."[83] - -Now, though the Tio painted the yellow spring thus _couleur de rose_, -and his account of its wonderful properties, like his system of -chronology, must be received with caution, yet I must needs confess that -the _Hedionda_ seemed to perform extraordinary cures; and, even in my -own case, I ever fancied that after a few days passed at the baths, I -returned to Gibraltar with invigorated powers of digestion. I could by -no means, however, bring myself to submit to the _Tio's_ discipline, and -he was wont to shake his head very seriously, when, returning from a -hard day's shooting, I used to request him to open a bath for me after -sunset--Hercules, himself, he thought could not have stood that. - -That this spring was known to the Romans there can be no manner of -doubt, since the public bath, which still exists, is a work of that -people. The source is very copious, and the water of an equal -temperature throughout the year, viz., 73 to 75 degrees of Fahrenheit's -thermometer. - -On analysis it is found to contain large quantities of hydrogen and -carbonic acid gases, and the following proportions of fixed substances -in fifty pounds of water, viz., six grains of muriate of lime; fifty-six -of sulphate of magnesia; thirty-five of sulphate of lime; ten of -magnesia; and four of silica. The quantity of sulphur it holds in -solution is so great, that the vine-dressers in the neighbourhood make -themselves matches, by merely steeping linen rags in the waste water of -the baths. - -The use of the bath has been found very efficacious in the cure of all -kinds of cutaneous diseases, ulcers, wounds, and elephantiasis; and -taken inwardly, the water is considered by the faculty as extremely -beneficial in cases of gout, asthma, scrofula, rheumatism, dyspepsia, -and, as the Tio said, in fact, in almost every disorder that human -nature is subject to. - -The season for taking the waters is from the beginning of June to the -end of September; and it is astonishing during those four months what -vast crowds of persons, of every grade and calling, are brought -together. Nobles, priests, peasants, and beggars--the gouty, -hypochondriac, lame, and blind--all flock from every part of the kingdom -to the famed Hedionda. It was ever a matter of surprise to me where such -a host can find accommodation. - -The same regimen is prescribed at this as at other watering places; -viz., plenty of the spring, moderate exercise, and abstemious diet; and -in this latter item, at least, the injunctions are as generally -disregarded at Manilba as at the Brunnens of Nassau: that is, -comparatively speaking, for it must be borne in mind that a German's -daily food would support a Spaniard for a week. - -The principal bath is open to the public, and, being very large and -tolerably deep, is by far the pleasantest, when one can be sure of its -entire possession. Those which have been built by the company of -speculators are too small, though convenient in other respects. The -charge for the use of these is moderate enough, viz., one real and a -half each time of bathing; which includes a trifling gratuity to _Tio -Juan_. - -The source from which the drinkers fill their goblets is open to all -comers, and any one may bottle and carry off the precious water _ad -libitum_. A considerable quantity is sent in stone jars to the -neighbouring towns; but Tio Juan maintained--and I believe not without -good reason--that it lost all its properties on the journey "_amen del -mal olor_."[84] - -The situation of the new village would have been more agreeable had it -been built somewhat higher up the side of the sierra, instead of on the -immediate bank of the rivulet, where it is excluded from the fine view -it might otherwise command, and is sheltered from every breath of air. -It is not, however, so sultry as might be expected, considering its -confined situation; for the mountain behind screens it from the sun's -rays at an early hour after noon, and the opposite bank of the ravine, -by sloping down gradually to the stream, and being clothed to the -water's edge with vines, fig, and other fruit-trees, throws back no -reflected heat upon the dwellings. - -The manner of life of the visiters of the _hedionda_ is not less -different from that of the watering places of other countries, than the -place itself is from Cheltenham or Carlsbad. They rise with the sun; -drink their first glass of water at the spring on their way to chapel; a -second glass, in returning from their devotions; and then take a -_paseito_[85] in the _huerta_: but not until after the third dose do -they venture on their usual breakfast of a cup of chocolate. The bath -and the toilette occupy the rest of the morning. Dinner is taken at one -or two o'clock; the _Siesta_ follows, and before sunset another bath, -perhaps. The _Paseo_ comes next--that is quite indispensable--and the -_Tertulia_ concludes the arrangements for the day. - -This, at the baths, is a kind of public assembly held in the open air, -and generally in one of the vine-sheltered streets of the modern -village. A guitar, cards, dancing, and games of forfeit, are the various -resources of the _reunion_; which breaks up at an early hour. - -_Tio Juan_, in his shirt-sleeves and slippers, is a constant attendant -at the _Tertulia_, usually looking on at the sports and pastimes with -becoming gravity, but occasionally taking a hand at _Malilla_,[86] or -joining the noisy circle playing at _El Enfermo_;[87] in which, when the -usual question is asked, "What will _you_ give the sick man?" he -invariably answers, "_El Agua--nada mas que el agua--que no hay cosa mas -sano en el mundo_,"[88] puffing away at his paper cigar all the while -with the most imperturbable gravity, and casting a side glance at me, as -much as to say--"not a word of our nightly _symposium_, if you please." - -The company on these occasions is, as may be supposed, of a very mixed -kind. Let it not be imagined, however, that because "_Senor Juan_" -presents himself with bare elbows, that it is altogether of a secondary -order--far from it--for such is the caprice of fashion, such the love of -change, that even the noblest of the land are ofttimes inmates of the -little inconvenient hovels that I have described; but _Tio Juan_ is a -privileged person--every body consults him, every one makes him his or -her confidant. And so curiously is Spanish society constituted, that -though considered the proudest people in the world, yet, on occasions -like this, Spaniards lay aside the distinction of rank, and mix together -in the most unceremonious manner. Indeed, no people I have ever seen -treat their inferiors with greater respect than the Spanish Nobles. They -enter familiarly into conversation with the servants standing behind -their chair; and, strange as it may appear, this freedom is never taken -advantage of, nor are they less respected, nor worse served in -consequence. - -The custom of kneeling down in common at their places of public worship -may have a tendency to keep up this feeling, warning the rich and -powerful of the earth that, though placed temporarily above the peasant -in the world's estimation, yet that he is their equal in the sight of -the Creator of all; an accountable being like themselves, and deserving -of the treatment of a human being. - -The Spanish nobles certainly find their reward in adopting such a line -of conduct, for they are served with extraordinary fidelity; and the -horrors which were perpetrated _through the instrumentality of -servants_, during the French revolution, is little to be apprehended in -this country; perhaps, indeed, this good understanding between master -and man has hitherto saved Spain from its reign of terror. - -The chapel of the bathing village is generally thronged with penitents; -for people become very devout when they have, or fancy they have, one -foot in the grave. The little edifice may be considered the repository -of the _archives_ of _the Hedionda_, for countless are the legs, arms, -heads, and bodies, moulded in wax, or carved in wood, and telling of -wondrous cures, that have been offered at the shrine of Our Lady of _Los -Remedios_. - -Leaving the good Romanists at their devotions within the crowded chapel, -and _Tio Juan_, with one knee and his pitcher of water on the ground, -and his staff in hand, offering a passing prayer behind the throng -collected outside the open door, we will devote the morning to a -scramble to the summit of the steep mountain that rises at the back of -the baths. - -The _Sierra de Utrera_, by which name this rugged ridge is -distinguished, is of very singular formation. Its eastern base (whence -the _hedionda_ issues) is covered with a crumbling mass of schist, -disposed in laminae, shelving downwards, at an angle of 25 or 30 degrees -with the horizon. This sloping bank reaches to about one third the -height of the mountain, when rude rocks of a most peculiar character -shoot up above its general surface, rising pyramidically, but assuming -most fantastic forms, and each pile consisting of a series of huge -blocks (sometimes fourteen or fifteen in number), resting loosely one -upon another, and seemingly so much off the centre of gravity as to lead -to the belief that a slight push would lay them prostrate. - -At first these detached pinnacles rise only to the height of fifteen or -twenty feet, but, on drawing near the crest of the ridge, they attain -nearly twice that elevation. The general surface of the mountain, above -which these piles of rocking stones rise, is rent by deep chasms, as if -the whole mass of rock had, at some distant period, been shaken to its -very foundation by an earthquake. In these rents, soil has been -gradually collected, and vegetation been the consequence; but the -general character of the mountain is arid and sterile. - -The ascent becomes very difficult as one proceeds, and, in fact, it -requires some little agility to reach the crest of the singular ridge. -Its summit presents a very rough, though nearly horizontal surface, -varying in width from 300 to 400 yards; and, looking from its western -side, the spectator fancies himself elevated on the walls of some vast -castle, so precipitously does the rocky ledge fall in that direction, so -level and smiling is the cultivated country spread out but a couple of -hundred feet below him. - -This rocky plateau appears to have been covered, in former days, with -the same singularly formed pyramids that protrude from the eastern -acclivity of the mountain; but they have probably been hewn into mill -stones, as many of the rough blocks strewed about its surface are now in -process of becoming. The plateau extends nearly two miles in a parallel -direction to the rock of Gibraltar, that is, nearly due north and south -by compass; and, when on its summit, the ridge appears continuous; but, -on proceeding to examine the southern portion of the plateau, I found -myself suddenly on the brink of a chasm, upwards of a hundred feet -deep, which, traversing the mountain from east to west, cuts it -completely in two. This cleft varies in width from 50 to 100 feet; and -in winter brings down a copious stream, being the drain of a -considerable extent of country on the western side of the ridge. It is -partially clothed with shrubs and wild olive-trees, and a rude pathway -leads down the dark dell to the _hedionda_, which issues from the base -of the mountain, about 200 yards to the north of the opening of the -chasm. - -This remarkable gap, though not distinguishable from the baths situated -immediately below it, is so well defined, and has so peculiar an -appearance at a distance, that it is an important landmark for the -coasting vessels. - -The southern portion of the Sierra is far less accessible than that -which has been described; in fact, access to its summit can be gained -only by means of a ramped road, which, piercing the rocky precipice on -its western side, has been made to facilitate the transport of the -millstones prepared there. In other respects, this part of the plateau -is of the same character as the other. - -Wonderful are the tales of fairies, devils, and evil spirits, told by -the goatherds and others who frequent this singular mountain; and _Tio -Juan_, who never would suffer himself to be outdone in the marvellous, -told us that "_un Ingles_," who, about two years before, had been on a -visit to the baths, had disappeared there in a most mysterious way. A -goatherd of his acquaintance had seen him descend into a cleft in search -of some herb, but out of it he had never returned. "_Se dicen_," he -concluded, "_que era uno de esos Lores, de que hay tantos en -Inglaterra_;[89] but I can hardly believe, if he had possessed such -'_montones de oro_'[90] as was represented, that he would have been -going about like a pedlar, with a basket slung to his back, picking up -all sorts of herbs, and drying them with great care every day when he -returned home, spreading them out between the leaves of a large book. -'_A me mi parece_,'[91] that he was gathering them to make tea with; but -I know an herb which grows on that Sierra, which is worth all the -medicines[92] in the world: ay! and in some cases it is yet quicker, -though not more effectual, in its cure, than even the waters of the -_hedionda_; and some day, _Don Carlos_, I will walk up and show you the -cleft wherein it grows." - -The _Tio's_ occupations were, however, too constant to allow of his -accompanying me in search of this wonderful plant, and, consequently, -my curiosity concerning it was never gratified. - -The district of Manilba is celebrated for the productiveness of its -vineyards, and the undulated country between the baths and the southern -foot of the _Sierra Bermeja_ is almost exclusively devoted to the -culture of the grape. That most esteemed is a large purple kind. It is -highly flavoured, and makes a strong-bodied and very palatable wine, -though, in nine cases out of ten, the wine is spoilt by some defect of -the skin in which it has been carried. - -The husks of the Manilba grape, after the juice has been expressed, -enjoy a reputation for the cure of rheumatism, scarcely less than that -of the sulphureous spring itself. The sufferer is immersed up to the -neck in a vat full of the fermenting skins, and, after remaining therein -a whole morning, comes forth as purple as a printer's devil. I have met -with persons who declared they had received great benefit from this -vinous bath; but I question whether interment in hot sand (a mode of -treatment, by the way, which has been tried with great success) would -not have been found more efficacious, without subjecting the patient to -this unpleasant discoloration. - -Several interesting mornings' excursions may be made from the baths. The -village of Manilba (about two miles distant) is situated on a high, but -narrow ridge, that protrudes from the south-eastern extremity of the -Sierra de Utrera. It is a compactly built place, and commands fine -views: towards the mountains on one side, and over the Mediterranean on -the other. The population amounts to about 3000 souls, principally -vinedressers and husbandmen. - -On one occasion--having found all the lodging-houses at the _hedionda_ -occupied, I established myself for a few days at the posada at Manilba, -where a singular adventure befel me. Mine host entered my room on the -evening of my arrival, and very mysteriously informed me, that a certain -person--a friend of his--a Spanish officer "_por fin_," who had -distinguished himself greatly under the constitutional government, and -was a _caballero de toda confianza_,[93] wished very much to have the -honour of paying me a visit, if I were agreeable, which, hearing I was -alone, he thought it possible I might be; and, before I had time fully -to explain that I was quite tired from a long day's shooting, and must -beg to be excused, the _Lismahago_ himself walked in--as vulgar, -off-handed, free-and-easy a gentleman as I ever came across. - -Having expressed unbounded love for the English nation, and stated his -conviction--drawn from his intimate knowledge of the character of -British officers--that they were, one and all, well disposed to assist -in the grand work of regenerating Spain, he proceeded to state, that the -"friends of liberty," in various towns of that part of the Peninsula, -had entered into a plot to subvert the existing government of the -country, and having many friends in Gibraltar, wished, through the -medium of an officer of that garrison, to communicate with them; that, -understanding I was, &c. &c. &c. - -I had merely acknowledged that I comprehended what he was saying, by -bowing severally to the numerous panegyrics on liberty, and compliments -to myself and nation, with which he interlarded his discourse--for the -above is but the skimmed milk of his eloquent harangue; but, finding -that he had at length concluded, I expressed the deep regret I felt at -not being able to meet his friendly proposal in the way he wished, from -the circumstance of my time being fully occupied in preparing a -deep-laid plot against my own government--nothing less, in fact, than to -give up the important fortress of Gibraltar to the Emperor of Morocco, -until we had established a republic in England. When this grand project -was accomplished, I added, I should be quite at leisure, and would most -willingly enter into any treasonable designs against any other -government; but, at present, he must see it was quite out of the -question. - -My visiter gazed on me "with the eyes of astonishment," but I kept my -countenance. He rose from his seat--I did the same. - -"Are you serious?" asked he. - -"Perfectly so," I replied; "but, of course, I reckon on your maintaining -the strictest secrecy in the matter I have just communicated," I added -earnestly. - -"You may rely in perfect confidence upon me." - -"Do you smoke? Pray accept of a Gibraltar cigar. I regret that I cannot -ask you to remain with me, but I have letters of the utmost importance -to write, which must be sent off by daybreak." He accepted my proffered -cigar, begged I would command his services on all occasions, and walked -off. - -I made sure he was a government spy, and in a towering rage sent for the -innkeeper. He protested such was not the case, adding, "but, to confess -the truth," he was a poor harmless fellow,--a reduced officer of the -constitutional army,--who was very fond of the English, not less so of -wine; talked a great deal of nonsense, which nobody minded; and hoped I -would take no notice of it. - -I reminded mine host, that he had said he was a "_distinguished -officer_," and had called him "_his friend_."--"_Si, senor, es -verdad_;[94] but the fact is, he followed me up stairs, and I knew he -was at the door, listening to what I might say." - -I very much doubted the truth of his asseverations, and my doubts were -confirmed by my never afterwards seeing the constitutional officer about -the premises; but, to prevent a repetition of such introductions, I -begged to be allowed the privilege of choosing my own associates, -telling him, indeed, that my further stay at his house would depend upon -it. I still, however, continued to look upon the fellow as a spy, until -the mad attempt made by Torrijos to bring about a revolution, not very -long afterwards, led me to think that my visiter's overture might really -have been seriously intended. - -Manilba is distant about seven miles from Estepona. The first part of -the road thither lies through productive vineyards; the latter along the -sea-shore, on reaching which it falls into the road from Gibraltar to -Malaga. - -Not many years since Estepona was a mere fishing village, built under -the protection of one of the _casa fuertes_ that guard the coast; but -the fort stands now in the midst of a thriving town, containing 6000 -inhabitants. - -The fish taken here finds a ready sale in the Serrania, whither it is -conveyed in a half-salted state, on the backs of mules or asses. The -_Sardina_ frequents this coast in great numbers; it is a delicious -fish, of the herring kind, but more delicately flavoured. - -The environs of Estepona are very fruitful; and oranges and lemons are -exported thence to a large amount--the greater portion to England. The -place is distant twenty-five miles from Gibraltar (by the road), and -sixteen from Marbella. To the latter the road is very good. - -A most delightful ride offers itself to return from hence to the baths -of Manilba, by way of Casares. The road, for the first few miles, keeps -under the deeply seamed and pine-clad side of the _Sierra Bermeja_, and -then, leaving the mountain-path to Gaucin (mentioned in a preceding -chapter) to the right, enters an intersected country, winding along the -edge of several deep ravines, shaded by groves of chesnut-trees, and -reaches Casares very unexpectedly; leaving a large convent, situated on -the side of a steep bank, on the left, just before entering the narrow, -rock-bound town. - -The road from Casares to the baths has already been described, but two -other routes offer themselves from that town to reach Manilba. The more -direct of these keeps the fissure in which the _hedionda_ is situated on -the right; the other makes a wide circuit round the _Sierra de Utrera_, -and leaves the baths on the left. By the former the distance is five and -a half, by the latter seven miles. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - A SHOOTING PARTY TO THE MOUNTAINS--OUR ITALIAN PIQUEUR, DAMIEN - BERRIO--SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS PREVIOUS LIFE--LOS BARRIOS--THE - BEAUTIFUL MAID, AND THE MAIDEN'S LEVELLING SIRE--ROAD TO - SANONA--PREPARATIONS AGAINST BANDITS--ARRIVAL AT THE - CASERIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS OWNER AND ACCOMMODATIONS--FINE - SCENERY--A BATIDA. - - -In the wildest part of the mountainous belt that, stretching in a wide -semicircle round Gibraltar, cuts the rocky peninsula off, as it were, -from the rest of Spain, is situated the _Caseria de Sanona_; a lone -house, now dwindled down to a mere farm; but, as both its name implies, -and its appearance bespeaks, formerly a place of some consequence. - -It was brought to its present lowly state during the last war, when its -inhabitants were so reduced in number, as well as circumstances, that -hands and means are still equally wanting for the proper looking after, -and attending to, the vast herds and extensive _dehesas_[95] and -forest-lands belonging to it. The consequence is, that the wolves and -wild boars, from having been so long permitted to roam about in -undisputed possession of the woods, have in their turn, from being the -persecuted, become the aggressors, and are now in the habit of making -nightly predatory visits to the cattle folds and plantations of the -_Caseria_, carrying off the farmer's sheep and heifers, and destroying -his winter stock of vegetables, whenever, by any neglect or remissness -of the watch, an opportunity is afforded them. - -Besides the animals above mentioned, deer, and, in the winter, -woodcocks, find the unfrequented ravines in the vicinity of the -_Caseria_ equally well suited to their secluded habits; and, tempted by -the promising account of the sport the place afforded, a party was -formed, consisting of three of my most intimate friends, myself, and a -piqueur, to proceed thither for a few days' shooting. - -Sending forward a messenger to the Caseria, as well to go through the -form of asking its proprietor to "put us up," during our proposed visit, -as to request him to have a sufficient number of beaters collected--on -which the quality of the sport mainly depends--we provided ourselves -with a week's consumption of provisions and ammunition, and, leaving -Gibraltar late in the afternoon, proceeded to Los Barrios; whence, we -could take an earlier departure on the following morning than from the -locked-up fortress. - -The _Piqueur_ who usually accompanied us on these shooting excursions -was a personage of some celebrity in the Gibraltar _sporting world_, and -his name--Damien Berrio--will doubtless be familiar to such of my -readers as may have resided any time on "the rock." By birth a -Piedmontese, a baker by profession, Damien's bread--like that of many -persons in a more elevated walk of life--was not to his taste. At the -very mention of a _Batida_, he would leave oven, home, wife, and -children; shoulder his gun, fill his _alforjas_--for he was a provident -soul, and, though a baker, ever maintained that man could not live on -bread alone--borrow a horse, and, in half an hour, "be ready for a -start." - -Possessing a perfect knowledge of the country, a quick eye, an unerring -aim, and a nose that could wind an _olla_ if within the circuit of a -Spanish league, Damien was, in many respects, a valuable acquisition on -a shooting party. And to the aforesaid qualifications, befitting him for -the _staff_, he added that of being an excellent _raconteur_. In this he -received much assistance from his personal appearance, which, like that -of the inimitable Liston, passed off for humour that which, in reality, -was pure nature. - -His person was much above the common stature, erect, and well-built, but -his hands and feet were "prodigious." His face--when the sun fell -directly upon it, so as to free it from the shadow of his enormous -nose--was intelligent, and bespoke infinite good nature, though marked, -nevertheless, with the lines of care and sorrow. His costume was that of -a French sportsman, except that he wore a high-crowned, weather-beaten -old hat, placed somewhat knowingly on one side of his head, and which, -of itself alone, marked him as "_a character_." - -To those who have not had the pleasure of his acquaintance, a _precis_ -of his early history may not be unacceptable; those who already know it -will, I trust, pardon the short digression. - -Born on the sunny side of the Alps, some fifteen years before the -breaking out of the French revolution, Damien, at a very early age, was -called upon to defend his country against the aggression of its Gallic -neighbours. He was draughted accordingly to a regiment of grenadiers of -the Piedmontese army commanded by General Colli; and, in the short and -disgraceful campaign of 1796, was made prisoner with the brave but -unfortunate Provera, at the Castle of Cosseria. - -On the formation of the Cisalpine republic soon afterwards, our -grenadier, released, as he fondly imagined, from the necessity of any -further military service, purposed returning to his family and regretted -agricultural pursuits; but, on applying for his discharge, he found that -he had quite misunderstood the meaning of the word _freedom_. "What!" -said the regenerator of his oppressed country; "what! return home like a -lazy drone, when so much still remains to be done! No, no, we cannot -part with you yet; we are about to give liberty to the rest of Italy; -you must march; can mankind be more beneficially or philanthropically -employed? _Allons! en avant! vive la liberte!_"--"And so," said Damien, -"off we were marched, under the tail of the French eagle, to give -freedom to the _Facchini of Venice_, and _Lazzaroni_ of Naples; and to -spoil and pillage all that lay in our way." - -This marauding life was ill-suited either to our hero's taste or habits, -and accordingly he embraced the first favourable opportunity of quitting -the service of the "Regenerator of Italy." How he managed to effect his -liberation I never could find out, it being one of the very few subjects -on which Damien was close; but I suspect--much as he liked -shooting--that the love of the smell of gunpowder was not a _natural_ -taste of his. Be that as it may, he made his way to Spain--took to -himself a Spanish wife--and settled at Gibraltar. - -His language, like the dress of a harlequin, was made up of -scraps,--French, Spanish, English, and Italian, joined in angularly and -without method or regularity; and all so badly spoken, as to render it -impossible to say which amongst them was the mother-tongue. -Nevertheless, Damien got on well with every body, and his _bonhommie_ -and good nature rendered him a universal favourite. In other respects, -however, he was not so favoured a child of fortune; for, though no idle -seeker of adventures, in fact, he was wont to go a great way to avoid -them, yet, as ill luck would have it, adventures very frequently came -across him. And it generally happened, as with the famed Manchegan -knight, that Damien, in his various encounters, came off "second best." -That is to say, they usually ended in his finding himself _minus_ his -gun, or his horse, or both, and, perhaps, his _alforjas_ to boot. - -By his own account, these untoward events invariably happened through -some want of proper precaution--either whilst he was indulging in a -_Siesta_, or taking a snack by the side of some cool stream, his trusty -gun being out of his immediate reach, or when committing some other -imprudent act. So it was, however, and these "_petits malheurs_," as he -was in the habit of calling them, had generated a more than ordinary -dread of robbers, which, in its turn, had produced in him a disposition -to be gregarious whenever he passed the bounds of the English garrison. - -In travelling through the mountains, we always knew when we were -approaching what Damien considered a likely spot for an ambuscade, by -his striking up a martial air that he told us had been the favourite -march of the regiment of grenadiers in which he had served; giving us -from time to time a hint that it would be well to be upon the look-out -by observing to the person next him, "_Hay muchos ladrones par ici, mon -Capitaine--el ano pasado (maledetti sian' ces gueux d'Espagnols!) on m'a -vole une bonne escopete en este maldito callejon_[96]--_Il faut etre -prepare, Messieurs!_" and then the Piedmontese march was resumed with -increased energy, growing _piu marcato e risoluto_, as the banks of the -gorge became higher and the underwood thicker. - -On regaining the open country, the air was changed by a playful -_Cadenza_ to one of a more lively character, and, after a _Da Capo_, -generally ended with "_n'ayez pas peur, Messieurs--questi birbanti -Spagniuoli_"[97] (he seldom abused them in their native language, lest -he should be over-heard) "_n'osent pas nous attaquer a forces egales_." - -Poor _Damien!_ many is the good laugh your fears have unconsciously -occasioned us--many the joking bet the tuning up of the Piedmontese -grenadiers' march has given rise to--and every note of which is at this -moment as perfect in my recollection as when we traversed together the -wild _puertas de Sanona_. - -The town of Los Barrios, where we took up our quarters for the night, is -twelve miles from Gibraltar. It is a small, open town, containing some -2000 souls, and, though founded only since the capture of Gibraltar, -already shows sad symptoms of decay. - -Being within a ride of the British garrison, it is frequently visited by -its inmates, and two rival _posadas_ dispute the honour of possessing -the _golden fleece_. One of them, for a time, carried all before it, in -consequence of the beauty of the _Donzella de la Casa_:[98] but beauty -_will_ fade, however unwillingly--as in this case--its possessor admits -that it does; and the "fair maid of Los Barrios," who, when I first saw -her, was really a very beautiful girl, had, at the period of my last -visit, become a coarse, fat, middle-aged, _young woman_; and, as the -charges for looking at her remained the same as ever, I proved a -recreant knight, and went to the rival posada. - -Nothing could well be more ludicrous than the contrast, in dress and -appearance, between the beauty's mother and the beauty herself--unless, -indeed, the visiter arrived very unexpectedly,--the one being dirty, -slatternly, and clothed in old rags; the other, _muy bien peynado_,[99] -and pomatumed, and decked in all the finery and ornaments presented by -her numerous admirers. The old lady was excessively proud of her -daughter's beauty and wardrobe; and in showing her off always reminded -me of the _sin-par_[100] Panza's mode of speaking of his _Sanchita, una -muchacha a quien crio para condesa_.[101] - -The father of "the beauty" was a notorious _liberal_; and, having -outraged the laws of his country on various occasions, was executed at -Seville some years since. He was, I think, the most thorough-going -leveller I ever met with--one who would not have sheathed the knife as -long as any individual better off than himself remained in the country. -Boasting to me on one occasion of the great deeds he had done during the -war, he said that in one night he had despatched eleven French soldiers, -who were quartered in his house. He effected his purpose by making them -drunk, having previously drugged their wine to produce sleep. He put -them to death with his knife as they lay senseless on the floor, carried -them out into the yard, and threw them into a pit. The monster who could -boast of such a crime would commit it if he had the opportunity; and -though I suspect the number of his victims was exaggerated, yet I have -no doubt whatever that he did not make himself out to be a murderer -without some good grounds; and, I confess, it gave me very little regret -to hear, a year or two afterwards, that he had perished on the scaffold. - -The road to Sanona enters the mountains soon after leaving Los Barrios, -ascending, for the first few miles, along the bank of the river -Palmones. The scenery is very fine; huge masses of scarped and jagged -sierras are tossed about in the most fantastic irregularity, whilst the -valleys between are clad with a luxuriance of foliage that can be met -with only in this prolific climate. - -Looking back, the silvery Palmones may be traced winding between its -wooded banks towards the bay of Gibraltar, which, viewed in this -direction, has the appearance of a vast lake; the African shore, from -Ape's Hill to the promontory of Ceuta, seeming to complete its enclosure -to the south. - -After proceeding some miles further, the road becomes a mere -mule-track, and the country very wild and barren. The Piedmontese march -had been gradually _crescendo_ ever since leaving the cultivated valley -of the Palmones, and Damien, as he rode on before us, had already given -sundry yet more palpable intimations of impending danger,--firstly, by -examining the priming of his old flint gun,--secondly, by trying whether -the balls were rammed home,--and, lastly, by producing a brandy bottle -from his capacious pocket; when, arrived at the foot of a peculiarly -dreary and rocky pass, pulling up and dismounting from his horse, under -pretence of tightening the girths of his saddle, he exclaimed, "_a -present, Messieurs, es preciso cargar--ces laches d'Espagnols viennent -toujours a l'improviste, et se non siamo apparecchiati saremo tutti -inretati come tanti uccellini.--Somos todos muy bien armados con -escopetas a dos canones; y con juicio, no tendremos que temer--ma ... -bisogna giudizio!_"[102] and in accordance with his wishes thus clearly -expressed, we all loaded with ball, and, pushing on an advanced guard, -boldly entered the rugged defile, joining our voices in grand chorus in -the inspiriting grenadier's march. - -On emerging from this rocky gorge, we entered a peculiarly wild and -secluded valley, which, so completely is it shut out from all view, one -might imagine, but for the narrow path under our feet, had never been -trodden by man. The road winds round the heads of numerous dark ravines, -crosses numberless torrents, that rush foaming from the impending sierra -on the left, and is screened effectually from the sun by an impenetrable -covering of oak and other forest-trees, festooned with woodbine, -eglantine, and wild vines; whilst the valley below is clothed, from end -to end, with cistus, broom, wild lavender, thyme, and other indigenous -aromatic shrubs. - -At the end of about three leagues, we reached the head of the valley, -where one of the principal sources of the Palmones takes its rise. The -neck of land that divides this stream from the affluents to the Celemin, -is the pass of Sanona. From hence the _Caseria_ is visible, and a rapid -descent of about a mile brought us to the door of the lone mansion. - -Our arrival was announced to the inmates by a general salute from the -countless dogs that invariably form part of a Spanish farmer's -establishment. The horrid din soon brought forth the equally -shaggy-coated bipeds, headed by a venerable-looking old man, who, with a -slight recognition of Damien, stepped to the front, and, in a very -dignified manner, announcing himself as the owner of the _Caseria_, -begged we would alight, and consider his house our own. - -"My habitation is but a poor one, _Caballeros_; the accommodation it -affords yet poorer. I wish for your sakes I had better to offer; but of -this you may rest assured, that every thing _Luis de Castro_ possesses, -will ever be at the service of the brave nation who generously aided, -and by whose side I have fought, to maintain the independence of my -country."--"_Bravo, Don Luis!_" ejaculated Damien, which saved us the -trouble of making a suitable speech in return. - -We were much pleased with our host's appearance: indeed the shape of his -cranium was itself sufficient to secure him the good opinion of all -disciples of Spurzheim; but this feeling of gratification was by no -means called forth by his _Caseria_, from the outward inspection of -which we judged the organ of accommodation to be wofully deficient. - -The house and out-buildings formerly occupied a considerable extent of -ground, but at the present day they are reduced to three sides of a -small square, of which the centre building contains the dwelling -apartments of the family, and the wings afford cover to the retainers, -cattle, and farming implements. A stout wall completes the enclosure on -the fourth side, wherein a wide folding gate affords the only means of -external communication. - -The _Caseria_ has long been possessed by the family of its present -occupant, but, losing something of its importance at each succeeding -generation, has dwindled down to its present insignificant condition. -Don Luis strives hard, nevertheless, to keep up the family dignity of -the De Castros, though joining with patriarchal simplicity in all the -services, occupations, and pastimes, of his dependents. - -The portion of the house reserved for himself and family consists but of -two rooms on the ground-floor. The outer and larger of these serves the -double purpose of a kitchen and refectory; the other is appropriated to -the multifarious offices of a chapel, dormitory, henroost, and granary. -In this inner room we were duly installed,--the lady de Castro, and -other members of the family, removing into a neighbouring _choza_ during -our stay: and a sheet having been drawn over the Virgin and child, the -cocks and hens driven from the rafters, and the Indian corn swept up -into a corner, we found ourselves more _snugly_ lodged than outward -appearances had led us to expect. - -Leaving our friend Damien to make what arrangements he pleased as to -dinner--a discretional power that always afforded him infinite -gratification--we proceeded to examine the "location," with a view of -obtaining some notion of the country which was to be the scene of our -next day's sporting operations. - -The situation of the _Caseria_ is singularly romantic; to the north it -is backed by a richly wooded slope, above which, at the distance of -about half a mile, a rocky ledge of sierra rises perpendicularly several -hundred feet, its dark outline serving as a fine relief to the rich and -varied green tints of the forest. In the opposite direction, the house -commands a view over a wide and partially wooded valley, along the bed -of which the eye occasionally catches a glimpse of a sparkling stream, -that is collected from the various dark ravines which break the lofty -mountain-ridges on either side. A wooded range, steep, but of somewhat -less elevation than the other mountains that the eye embraces, appears -to close the mouth of this valley; but, winding round its foot to the -right, the stream gains a narrow outlet to the extensive plain of Vejer, -and empties itself into the _Laguna de la Janda_--a portion of which may -be seen; and over this intermediate range rise, in the distance, the -peaked summits of the _Sierra de la Plata_, whose southern base is -washed by the Atlantic. - -The beauty of the scenery, heightened by the broad shadows cast upon the -mountains, and the varied tints that ever attend upon a setting sun in -this Elysian atmosphere, had tempted us to continue roaming about, -selecting the most favourable points of view, without once thinking of -our evening meal; and when, at length, the sun disappeared behind the -mountains, we found we had, unconsciously, wandered some considerable -distance from the _Caseria_. We forthwith bent our steps homewards, and, -on drawing near the house, were not a little amused at hearing Damien's -stentorian halloos to draw our attention, which were sent back to him in -echoes from all parts of the _Serrania_. He was right glad to see us, -though vexed at our extreme imprudence in wandering about the woods -without an _escopeta_, or defensive weapon of any sort amongst us. - -"_Messieurs, quand vous connoitrez ces gens ci aussi bien que moi----!_" - -We referred to Don Luis (who had come out with the intention of -proceeding in search of us), whether there were any _mala gente_ in the -neighbourhood. A faint smile played about the old man's mouth as he -looked towards Damien, as if guessing the source from which our -interrogation had sprung, and, then waving his right hand to and fro, -with the forefinger extended upwards, he replied, "_Por aqui Caballeros -no hay mala gente alguna; esa Canalla conoce demasiado quien es Luis de -Castro!_"[103] - -On entering the house, we found a large party assembled round the -charcoal fire, preparing to take their evening _gazpacho_[104] -_caliente_; and, hot as had been the day, we gladly joined the circle, -until our own more substantial supper should be announced. The group -consisted of the wife, son, and daughter-in-law of our host, and several -of his friends, who, living at a distance, had come overnight, to be -ready to take part in the _batida_ on the following morning. - -A _batida_ bears so strong a resemblance to the same sort of thing -common in Germany, and indeed in some parts of Scotland, that a very -detailed account of one would be uninteresting to most of my readers. We -turned out at daybreak, and, recruited by the neighbouring peasantry, -found that we mustered twenty-three guns, and dogs innumerable, mostly -of a kind called by the Spaniards _podencos_, for which the most -appropriate term in our language is lurcher; though that does not -altogether express the strong-made, wiry-haired dog used by the -Spaniards on these occasions. - -As the _camas_[105] about Sanona are very wide, and require a number of -guns to line them, only eleven of the men could be spared for beaters. -These were placed under the direction of Alonzo, our host's son, whilst -Don Luis himself took command of the sportsmen in the quality of -_capitan_; and his first order was to prohibit all squibbing off of -guns, by which the game might be disturbed. - -The two parties, on leaving the house, took different directions. Our's, -after proceeding about a mile, was halted, and enjoined to form in rank -entire, and keep perfectly silent. We then ascended a steep, thickly -coppiced hill, and were placed in position along its crest, at intervals -of about a hundred yards, with directions to watch the openings through -the underwood in our front--to screen ourselves from observation as well -as we could--not to stir from the spot until the signal was made to -retire--and to observe carefully the position of our fellow sportsmen on -either side, to prevent accidents. - -We were much amused at the manner in which Don Luis--to whom we were all -perfect strangers--selected us to occupy the different approaches to the -position. Scanning us over from right to left, and from head to foot, he -seemed to pick and choose his men as if perfectly aware of the peculiar -qualities each possessed, befitting him for the situation in which he -purposed placing him; and, beckoning the one selected out of the rank, -without uttering a word he led him to the assigned post, pointed out the -various openings in the underwood, and gave his final instructions in a -low whisper. - -On leaving me he pointed to a narrow passage between two huge blocks of -rock, and in a low voice said "_Lobo_;"[106] which, I must confess, made -me look about for a tree, as a secure position to fall back upon, in the -event of my fire failing to bring the expected visiter to the ground. - -The position we occupied had a deep ravine in front, a wide valley on -one flank, and a precipitous wall of rock on the other; but, as the -event proved, it was far too extended. Thus posted, we remained for a -considerable time, and I began to think very meanly of the sport, -especially as I did not much like to withdraw my eyes from the rocky -pass where the wolf was to be looked for; but at length the distant -shouts of the beaters resounded through the mountains, and a few minutes -after, the faint but true-toned yelp of one of the hounds put me quite -on the _qui vive_; and when, in a few seconds, other dogs gave tongue, -and several shots were fired by the beaters (who are furnished with -blank cartridge), giving the assurance that game had been sprung, a -feeling of excitement was produced, that can, I think, hardly be -equalled by any other description of sport. - -The first gun from our own party almost induced me to rush forward and -break the line; but, just at the moment, a rustling in the underwood -drew my attention, and, looking up, I saw a fine buck "at gaze," as the -heralds say, about thirty yards off, and exactly in the direction of the -spot where I had seen my friend G---- posted. - -The animal, with ears erect, was listening, in evident alarm, to the -barking of the dogs; yet, from the shot just fired in his front, -scarcely knowing on which side danger was most imminent. I was so -screened by the underwood that he did not perceive me, and I could have -shot him with the greatest ease--that is to say, had my nervous system -been in proper trim,--but that the fear of killing my neighbour withheld -me; so there I stood, with my gun at the first motion of the present, -and there stood the deer, in just as great a _quandary_. - -At length, losing all patience, I hallooed to my neighbour by name, -hoping by his reply to learn whereabouts he was (for that he had moved -from his post was evident), and, if possible, get a shot at the deer as -he turned back, which I doubted not he would do. But, alas! my call -produced no response, and the fine animal bounded forward, breaking -through our line, and rendering it too hazardous for me to salute him -with both barrels, as I had murderously projected. - -Soon after the horn sounded for our reassembly. The _cama_[107] had -been very unsuccessful. One deer only, besides that which visited me, -had been driven through our line; the rest of the herd, and several wild -boars, turned our position by its right, which was too extensive for the -small number of guns. One of the Spaniards had shot a fox, which was all -we had to show; and his companions shook their heads, considering it a -bad omen, and that it was, indeed, likely to turn out "_una dia de -zorras_."[108] - -On my relating the tantalizing dilemma in which I had been placed, old -_Luis_, who felt somewhat sore at the signal failure of his generalship, -declared we should have no sport if I stood upon such ceremony; adding, -with much energy of manner, and addressing himself to the assembled -party, "As soon as ever you see your game, _carajo! candela!_"[109]--a -speech that reminded us forcibly of Suwarrow's reply to his Austrian -coadjutor, when urging the prudence of a _reconnoissance_ before -undertaking some delicate operation, viz.--"_Poussez en avant--chargez a -la bayonette--voila mes reconnoissances._" - -The beaters were now directed to make a "wide cast," and, if possible, -head the game that had escaped us, whilst we moved off to a fresh -position, about half a mile in rear, and perpendicular to the former. -This plan was pretty successful: we killed a wolf and two deer, but Don -Luis was by no means satisfied. - -It was now noon-day, and, ascending a rocky ledge that projects into the -wide valley, already described as lying in front of the house, we -obtained a splendid panoramic view of the whole wooded district of -Sanona. We found, on gaining the summit, that the provident Damien had -directed a _muchacho_ to meet us there, with a mule-load of provender, -which he was pleased to call "_un petit peu de rafraichissement_." We -were quite prepared to acknowledge our sense of his foresight and -discretion in the most unequivocal manner; for the exertion of climbing -the successive mountain-ridges, and forcing our way through the -underwood, as well as the excitement of the sport, had given a keen edge -to our appetites. - -Whilst seated in a convivial circle, smoking our cigars at the -conclusion of our repast, we observed that poor Alonzo--who, though a -stoutly built, was a very sickly-looking man--appeared to be quite -exhausted from the heat and fatigue of the day, and that poor old Luis -looked from time to time on his son, as he lay full-length upon the -ground, with a heart-rending expression of grief. - -One of our party remarked to him, that Alonzo did not appear to be well, -and suggested that he had better not exert himself further. Don Luis -shook his head. "Alas! senor!" he replied, "my poor Alonzo is as well as -ever he again will be. But do not suppose that he is a degenerate scion -of the De Castros; nor even that I regret seeing him in his present -state. No: much as I once wished to see the family name handed down to -another generation--of which there is now no chance--I would rather, -much rather, that he should have sacrificed his health--his life -indeed--for his country, than that any vain wish of mine should be -gratified." - -Our curiosity excited by the words, and yet more by the manner of the -old man, we ventured, after some little preamble, to ask what had -occasioned the change in his son that his speech implied. - -"It is a long story, _caballeros_," he answered; "but, as the sun is now -too powerful to allow us to resume our sport, I will, if you feel -disposed to listen to a garrulous old man, relate the circumstances that -led to my son's being reduced to the lamentable state in which you see -him." We contracted the circle round Don Luis, the Spaniards, -apparently, quite as intent on hearing the thrice-told tale as -ourselves; and Damien, though still busily occupied at his -"_rafraichissement_," also lending an attentive ear. - -The fine old man was seated on a rock, elevated somewhat above the rest -of the party, holding in his right hand his uncouth-looking -fowling-piece, whilst the other rested on the head of a favourite dog, -that came, seemingly, to beg his master to remonstrate with Damien for -using his teeth to tear off the little flesh that remained on a -ham-bone. - -Don Luis, after patting the impatient favourite on the head and bidding -him lie down, thus began his story. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -LUIS DE CASTRO. - -"_Tiene este caso un no se que de sombra de adventura de -Caballeria._"--DON QUIJOTE. - - -I need not tell enlightened Englishmen--commenced Don Luis--that the -name I bear is no common one. The Caseria which you there see, and all -the shady glens we here look down upon, were granted to the renowned De -Castro, whose valour so materially aided the Catholic kings, of blessed -memory, in the pious work of extirpating the vile followers of the -Arabian Impostor from the soil of Spain; and the patrimony thus acquired -by my ancestor's sword has been handed down from generation to -generation to me,--too likely, alas! to be the last of the race to -inherit it. - -I married early in life, and was blessed with several children. Alonzo, -the first-born, was the only one permitted to reach maturity,--but I -repine not. They were all healthy, and every thing a parent could wish. -Years rolled on unmarked by any events of importance. Our days were -passed in attending to our herds; our evenings, in singing and dancing -to the notes of the wild guitar. Our festivals were devoted to the -exhilarating sport we have this morning been following; nor did we, -amidst our happiness, neglect to offer up our thanks to the Omnipotent -Deity, who,--through the propitiating influence of our patron -saints--was pleased to pour his blessings upon us. - -But a storm arose, which, for a time, shook our happy country to its -foundation. Spain became the object of a vile tyrant's insatiable -ambition. The perfidious Corsican, under the specious plea of -friendship, marched his licentious legions into our devoted country: and -having, by shameless deceit, first possessed himself of all our -strongholds, threw off the mask, and treated us as a conquered nation. - -This favoured province was, for some considerable time saved from the -desolation that wasted the rest of Spain, by the heroism of one of her -sons:--the brave Castanos hastened to place himself at the head of the -national troops, and in the defiles of the Sierra Morena, captured a -whole French army. But jealousy and intrigue--the greatest enemies our -country had to contend against--caused his services to be requited with -ingratitude. Another French army advanced, but we had not another -Castanos to oppose it. The enemy forced the barriers with which nature -and art had defended the province, and, like a swarm of locusts, spread -over and consumed the rich produce of its fertile fields. - -The mountaineers of Ronda and Granada, engaged in the vile contraband -trade which the disorganized state of the country favoured, were slow to -take up arms against the invaders, but "_Io y mi gente_" (I and my -people) were early in the field, harassing their parties conveying -supplies to the siege of Cadiz, as well as protecting the surrounding -country from their predatory visits; and our secluded _Caseria_ afforded -a secure retreat to the inhabitants of the plain, when forced to abandon -their hearths. - -I will not take up your time with the account of the various encounters -we had with the enemy--they are well known throughout the Serrania--but -will confine my narrative to what more particularly concerns my son. - -On one occasion, fortune presented him with an opportunity of saving a -party of the king's troops, who had got entangled in the intricacies of -the Serrania; his knowledge of the country having enabled him to lead -them clear of their pursuers, and bring them safely to the _Caseria_. - -Disappointed of the prey they had so confidently calculated upon, and -uneasy at a body of disciplined troops being added to our _guerilla_, -and established so close to them, the enemy determined on sending a -large force to root us out of our fastness. We, on our parts, hoping -that the French were unconscious of the place where the troops had found -a refuge, were meditating an attack upon their post of Alcala, when the -storm burst suddenly upon our heads, and, but for the devotedness and -presence of mind of my gallant son, would have involved us all in one -common destruction. - -Alonzo had gone off to reconnoitre in the direction of Tarifa, a rumour -having reached us that the enemy had invested that place; and we were -anxiously awaiting his return to decide upon our plans, when, soon after -nightfall, a lad belonging to the _Venta de Tabilla_ arrived at the -_Caseria_ on my son's horse, and in hurried words, informed me that a -large body of French troops was advancing upon the house. - -The enemy had forced this lad,--who alone had been left in charge of the -_Venta_,--to be their guide, and he had already conducted them across -the swamps at the head of the _Laguna de la Janda_, and was within a -hundred yards of the road leading from Tarifa to Casa Vieja--by keeping -along which to the left, he purposed gaining the shortest road into our -sequestered valley--when Alonzo crossed the path immediately in front of -them. - -From what we learnt afterwards it appeared, that he had been for some -time watching the enemy's movements, and, guessing from the direction -they had finally taken, whither they were bound, had thus purposely -thrown himself in their way; resolved--cut off as he found himself from -the shortest road to the _Caseria_--to take this hazardous step to save -us from a surprise. - -On being questioned as to his knowledge of the country, he at once -offered to guide them to the _Caseria_. "This is your way," he said, -pointing in the direction, whence he had just come, "but yonder is my -house," motioning with his head towards the _Cortijo de le las Habas_; -which, though about half a mile off, was yet visible in the dusk; "I -will send my jaded horse home by the boy, and accompany you on foot." - -The commanding officer, to whom this was addressed, made no objection; -in fact, he probably thought that their guide would be more in their -power without his horse. - -Alonzo gave his beast to the lad, saying significantly, "_Juanillo_, -tell my father I have fallen in with some friends and shall not be at -home for some little time; be quick; make your way back to the venta -without delay, as soon as you have delivered my message; and, as you -value your life,--no babbling." - -My son then turned off to the right, taking the best but far the most -circuitous route into the valley of Sanona, whilst _Juanillo_, putting -his horse into a canter, proceeded in the direction of the _Cortijo de -las Habas_, but, ere reaching it, struck into the difficult pass you see -below there, whence a rude foot-path leads direct to the _Caseria_, and -by which he had intended to conduct the enemy. - -It seemed to us--what indeed proved to be the case--that my son's -message was intended to hint to us the necessity for flight, and -_Juanillo's_ account of the number of the enemy, would fully have -warranted our avoiding an encounter; but, thinking Alonzo's life would -surely pay the forfeit of our escape, we determined to anticipate their -attack and give him a chance of saving himself. - -Prudence suggested the propriety of sending away our women and children. -Mounting them, therefore, on _borricos_, we hurried them off by the -mountain path to the _Casa de Castanas_, or _de las Navas_, as it is -otherwise called, from the name of its proprietor--a solitary house, -situated in a wooded valley, several miles to the north of Sanona. - -The women had scarcely left the _Caseria_, ere we heard the distant -tramp of horses in the valley below. Leaving a part of the soldiers to -defend the house, I led the rest, and my own people, out as silently as -possible, and posted them on the upper side of the path by which the -French were advancing. The enemy halted directly under the muzzles of -our guns, and a corporal and two dragoons were sent on to the house to -ask for a night's lodging. - -Nothing could be more favourable than the opportunity now presented for -attacking them, but I hesitated to give the word until I had discovered -my son, anxious as well to give him a chance of escape, as to save him -from our own fire. At last I recognised him: he was standing at the side -of the commander of the party, who, with a pistol in his hand, was -questioning him in a low tone of voice. - -The corporal now thundered at the gate of the _Caseria_. "_Quien es?_" -demanded the soldiers from within. I listened to no more; for, observing -that the commander's attention was for the moment attracted to the -proceedings of his advanced guard, and that Alonzo, in consequence, was -comparatively out of his reach, "_Candela!_" I cried out to my people, -directing, at the same time, my own unerring rifle at the head of the -French captain. - -Twenty guns answered to the word. The commander of the enemy fell -headlong to the earth; his horse sprung violently off the ground, -reared, staggered, and fell back; a dozen Frenchmen bit the dust; the -rest turned and fled, ere we could reload our pieces. - -I pressed forward to embrace my brave son, but saw him not. I called him -by name, but a faint groan was the only reply I received. I turned in -the direction of the sound, and found the Frenchman's horse, struggling -in the agonies of death, upon the bleeding body of my Alonzo. He had -been wounded in the breast by the Frenchman's pistol, the trigger of -which had, apparently, been pressed in the convulsive movement -occasioned by his death-wound. The horse had been shot by one of our -men, had fallen upon Alonzo, and broken several of his ribs. We conveyed -him to the house, without a hope of his recovery. - -In the excess of my grief, I thought not of sending after the women. -Alonzo was the first to bring me to a sense of my remissness, by -enquiring for his wife and child. I expressed my joy at hearing him -speak, for he had lain many hours speechless. He pressed my hand, and -added, "Father, I wish to see them once again before I die--to have a -mother's blessing also--for I feel my end approaching." - -I instantly despatched four of my people to the _Casa de Castanas_ to -escort them back, for I recollected that the three Frenchmen who had -been sent forward to demand admission to the house, had effected their -escape, and must be, wandering about the mountains. - -The sun had risen some hours, and yet no tidings reached us of them. I -began to feel very uneasy. A terrible presentiment disturbed me. I went -to the iron cross that stands on the mound in front of our house, whence -a view is obtained of the pass leading to _Las Navas_. I heard a wild -scream, that pierced my very soul, and the moment after, caught a -glimpse of a female figure, hastening with mad speed down the rocky path -leading to the _Caseria_. It was my daughter-in-law, Teresa! - -"See," she exclaimed, with frantic exultation, showing me her hands -stained with blood, "see--I killed him! my knife pierced the heart of -the murderer of my child! I killed the vile Frenchman! The wife of a De -Castro ever carries a knife to avenge her wrongs--to defend her honour!" - -That some terrible catastrophe had happened was too evident, but from -the unhappy maniac it was impossible to gather any thing definite. - -I mounted my horse, and rode with the speed of desperation towards the -_Casa de Castanas_, but had not proceeded far ere I met my people -returning, bearing my wife on a litter, and accompanied by two only of -the women who had accompanied her, mounted on _borricos_. - -"Dead?" I asked. It was the only word I could utter. - -"No, Luis," replied one of my faithful followers, "not dead, and, we -hope, not even seriously hurt; but evil has befallen your house--your -three young children and your grandson are lost to you for ever." - -"Lost! murdered? This is, indeed, a heavy blow, a severe trial. Perhaps -I am now childless;--God's will be done." - -"Proceed gently to the _Caseria_ with your burthen; I will hasten -forward, and send assistance, and such cordials as may be required to -restore my Ana." - -On my return I was surprised to see Alonzo sitting up, and his wife at -his bedside. I cannot describe the joy of that moment; but there was a -fearful expression of determination in my son's contracted brows, that -almost led me to fear for his mind. He turned to me for explanation, but -as yet I could give him none. The party shortly arrived, however, and -the women gave us a full account of the overwhelming disaster that had -befallen us. - -On leaving the _Caseria_ they had proceeded with such speed as the -darkness of the night permitted, towards the _Casa de Castanas_, and had -reached within a quarter of a league of the house, when the trampling of -horses behind them, spread the greatest alarm amongst these defenceless -females. It was clear that those who were in pursuit could not be their -friends, otherwise they would call to them to return; and concluding -therefore, that the enemy had prevailed at the _Caseria_, naturally -considered their danger imminent. - -My wife and daughter-in-law, with their children, and three of the -women, being well mounted, pressed forward to the solitary house for -shelter; the others, finding the Frenchmen--whom they could now hear -conversing--gaining rapidly upon them, with more good fortune took to -the woods; and, as we eventually learnt, reached Los Barrios in safety. - -On arriving at the _Casa de Castanas_, it was found to be totally -abandoned. They had barely time to close the outer gate, and shut -themselves up in a loft,--that could be ascended only by a ladder, and -through a trap-door, which they let fall--before their pursuers rode up -to the house. At first the Frenchmen civilly demanded admission; but -this being refused, they--guessing, probably, how the case stood, from -none but female voices replying to their demands--proceeded to threaten -to force an entrance. - -My daughter-in-law, who speaks a few words of French, then appeared at -the window; told them it was an abandoned house, and contained -absolutely nothing, not even refreshment for their horses; that, by -keeping down the valley to the left, they would, in less than an hour, -reach the _Hermita of El Cuervo_, where they would find all they might -stand in need of. - -The beauty of her who addressed them--for in those days my -daughter-in-law was a lovely young woman of eighteen--awakened the most -lawless of passions in these ruthless profligates. Affecting, however, -to disbelieve her statement of the unprovided condition of the house, -they forced open the outer gate, and, after vainly endeavouring to -persuade the terrified females to descend from their place of refuge, -collected all the straw and other combustible articles that were -scattered about the premises, in the apartment beneath, and threatened -to set fire to the house. - -In vain was appeal made to their clemency, to the boasted gallantry of -their nation, to every honourable feeling that inhabits the breast of -man. And at length, exasperated at the determination of these devoted -women, and possibly--it is a compliment I am willing to pay human -nature--thinking that a little smoke would soon induce them to descend, -the reckless monsters fired the straw. The whole building was quickly -enveloped in flames. - -For some minutes the unhappy beings above thought that the straw, being -damp, would not ignite so as to communicate with the wooden rafters of -the floor which supported them, and hoped that they were free from -danger; but the smoke which ascended soon, of itself, became -intolerable. Two of my children dropped on the floor from the effects -of suffocation; and one of women, taking her infant in her arms, jumped -from the window and was killed on the spot. - -My daughter-in-law, seeing that for herself there was but a choice of -death,--for the flames had now burst through the crackling -floor,--determined to make an effort to save her child. Pressing him to -her bosom, and covering him with her shawl to protect him from the -flames in her descent, she lifted the trap-door and placed her foot upon -the ladder. The fire had yet spared the upper steps, but ere she reached -the bottom the charred wood gave way, and she fell. The child escaped -from her arms and rolled amongst the blazing straw; she started upon her -feet to save him, but the rude hand of one of the ruffians seized and -dragged her from the flames into the court-yard. Vainly she implored to -be allowed to go to the rescue of her helpless infant; the monster--even -at such a moment looking upon his victim with the eyes of lust--would -not listen to her heart-rending appeals. The agonizing screams of her -writhing offspring gave her superhuman strength; she seized her knife; -plunged it deep in the Frenchman's breast; and, released from his -paralyzed arms, rushed back into the flames. - -Alas! it was too late--nothing but the blackened skeleton now remained -of her darling child. - -She darted, with the fury of a tigress robbed of its young, upon one of -the other Frenchmen, but he disarmed her, and, with a returning feeling -of humanity, forbore inflicting any further injury upon the frantic -woman; and, after some apparent altercation with his companion, both -mounted their horses and rode away. They were just in time to make their -escape, as the four men I had despatched rode up to the front gate of -the house, as they went off by the other. - -One of my people was an inhabitant of the _Casa de Castanas_, and -knowing the premises, quickly brought a ladder from a place of -concealment, and applied it to the window of the burning portion of the -building. My wife and the other two women were brought down safely, -though all more or less scorched, but the floor gave way before the -children, who were lying in an insensible state from suffocation, could -be removed. - -I despatched an indignant remonstrance to the French general, on the -inhuman conduct of his troops towards helpless women and children; and -threatened, if the perpetrators were not signally punished, to hang -every one of his countrymen that might fall into my hands, but he never -deigned to answer my letter. - -Some weeks elapsed after these events, ere Alonzo could leave his couch; -and the enemy seemed now so fully occupied in pressing the siege of -Cadiz, that we were led to believe they entertained no idea of paying -the _Caseria_ a second visit. - -Want of provisions, and still more of ammunition, had hitherto prevented -our being of much service, in harassing the enemy during their -operations; but, having obtained supplies from Algeciras, I determined -to follow up my remonstrance with a blow, and mustering all our -strength, to make an attempt to carry the enemy's post at _Casa Vieja_. - -For this purpose I fixed on the _Casa de Castanas_ for the general -rendezvous; that spot being more conveniently situated than Sanona, for -those who were to join our ranks from Castellar, Ximena, and other -places, and equally as near the projected point of attack. - -At the appointed day, I proceeded with my people to the place of -concentration. Alonzo had insisted on accompanying us, though yet hardly -able to cross a horse; but he thirsted for the blood of the destroyers -of his child and brothers. On reaching the _Casa de Castanas_, however, -his strength failed him, and he was obliged to remain there. - -Leaving _Pepito_, who sits there, then a beardless boy, to tend upon -Alonzo, and accompany him back to Sanona on the morrow, we departed on -our expedition. - -The chapel and few houses which compose the village of _Casa Vieja_, -are situated on the brow of a high hill overlooking a wide plain, -watered by the river Barbate. Not a bush interrupts the view for several -miles in any direction, so that to approach the place some -circumspection was requisite. I halted my men in the woods bordering the -Celemin--on the very spot, perhaps, where Muley Aben Hassan, King of -Granada, fixed his camp, when he sallied forth from Malaga to plunder -the estates of the Duke of Medina Sidonia--and sent one of my most -trustworthy followers on to reconnoitre, purposing, if a favourable -report was received, to make an attack at the point of day, trusting to -the shadows of night to conceal our march across the open plain. - -Our scout returned only a couple of hours before dawn. He had -experienced much difficulty in fording the Barbate, which was swollen by -recent rains. He brought us the startling news, that a considerable -French force had left Alcala de los Gazules, the preceding day, to -penetrate into the mountains, and was now probably in our rear, either -at the _Casa de Castanas_ or at Sanona. - -It was necessary to fall back immediately. We were at the fork of the -roads leading from those two places to _Casa Vieja_, but on which should -we direct our march? My heart whispered, to the former, where my Alonzo, -the last of my race, was left defenceless; but the wives and families -of my companions were all at Sanona, and duty bade me hasten thither for -their protection. The struggle of my feelings was severe, but short. I -sent a trusty friend on a swift horse to save Alonzo, if time yet -permitted, and hurried the march of my troop to the _Caseria_. We -reached it in three hours. - -We found every thing as we had left it. Those who had remained there had -neither seen nor heard anything of the enemy, but my son had not -returned home. I now regretted not having proceeded to the _Casa de -Castanas_, and proposed to my wearied men to march on and attack the -_Gavachos_ in their passage through the passes, fully expecting they -would now direct their steps to the _Caseria_. They acceded to my -proposal with _vivas_. A cup of wine and a mouthful of bread were given -to each, and we were off. - -We had not yet gained the pass yonder, at the back of the house, when we -met the man I had sent to the _Casa de Castanas_, coming towards us at -full speed. He informed us that he had encountered the French when on -his way to _Las Navas_, directing their march towards _Casa Vieja_. -Fortunately escaping their observation, he had concealed himself in a -thicket whilst they passed. _Pepito_--whom, it will be recollected, I -had left with Alonzo--was walking by the side of one of their officers, -undergoing a strict examination respecting our movements, &c. They had -several other prisoners in charge, who were tied together in couples, -but he could not distinguish Alonzo amongst them. My son's favourite -dog, _Hubilon_, however, brought up the rear, led by one of the -marauders; and the faithful creature's oft-averted head and restive -attempts to escape, sufficiently proved that his master had been left -behind. - -Under this conviction, he had pushed on to the _Casa de Castanas_ as -soon as the enemy were out of sight, and had thoroughly searched every -part of the building; but not a living being did it contain. The pigeons -even had deserted it, or, more probably, had been sacrificed, for -feathers and bones were scattered about on all sides, the smoke of -numerous fires darkened the white-washed walls, and the stains of wine -were left on the stone pavement, proving that the house had lately been -the scene of a deep carouse. - -From this account, it was evident that the Frenchmen had marched upon -our track in the hope of taking us between two fires, and it was most -fortunate we had returned to Sanona, instead of falling back upon the -_Casa de Castanas_; for the superiority of their number, in a chance -encounter, would have given them every advantage. - -It was probable that the enemy would now continue their pursuit in -hopes of taking us by surprise at Sanona; we countermarched immediately -therefore, and passing the _Caseria_, took up a strong position about -two miles beyond it, on the road to _Casa Vieja_, where we waited for -the enemy. - -We were not mistaken in our supposition, for scarcely were my men -posted, when the French advance appeared in sight. I allowed them to -approach to within pistol shot, and gave them a volley. My men were -scattered among the bushes, so that the extent of our fire made our -force appear much larger than it was in reality. We killed and wounded -several. - -The enemy paused, and seeing by their numbers that if they pushed boldly -on, resistance on our parts would be vain, I determined to try and -intimidate them; and taking for this purpose eight or ten active -fellows, we made our way through the brushwood which covered the hill -side on our left, and opened a flank fire upon the main body of the -enemy; who, imagining a fresh column had come to take part in the -action, fell back in some confusion to a place of greater security, and -one where they had more space to deploy their strength. - -We had effectually succeeded in frightening them, however, and no -further attempt was made to force our position; but it was not until the -next day that they finally left the mountains and retired to their -fortified posts of Casa Vieja and Alcala. - -No sooner had I seen them fairly out of the Serrania, than I retraced my -steps with all possible speed to Sanona; still indulging the fond hope -that Alonzo might have made his escape and reached home; but, -disappointed in this expectation, I proceeded on without loss of time to -the _Casa de Castanas_. - -I had scarcely entered the house ere I was greeted by "_Hubilon_,"--ay, -my good dog, said Don Luis, caressing his pet, your grandsire--who -evidently had come on the same errand as myself. But our search was -fruitless. The well, the vaults, the lofts and out-houses, every place, -was ransacked, but I discovered nothing to lead to the belief that -Alonzo had either been left there or been murdered. I mounted my horse -to return home, and had proceeded some little way, when I heard the howl -of _Hubilon_. Thinking I had inadvertently shut him in the house, I sent -back one of my companions to release him, but he returned, saying that -the dog would not leave the spot. I returned myself, but the sagacious -animal was not to be enticed away; he gave evident signs of pleasure at -seeing me, and began scratching furiously at the boarded floor of one of -the interior apartments. I approached to see what it was that excited -his attention, and discovered a trap door. With some little difficulty -I raised it up, and _Hubilon_ instantly leapt into the dark abyss. His -piteous whining soon informed me that he had found the body of his -master; a light was struck; I let myself down, and on the stone floor of -the cold, damp vault lay the body of my unfortunate son; his hands were -tied behind his back, and a handkerchief was drawn across his mouth to -stifle his cries! - -To me it appeared that the spirit of my Alonzo had long left its earthly -tenement, but the affectionate brute, by licking his master's face, -proved that life was not yet entirely extinct. Assisted by my -companions, I lifted my son out of the noxious vault, and, by friction, -a dram of _aguadiente_, and exposure to the sun and a purer atmosphere, -animation was gradually restored; and in the course of a few days he was -able to bear the journey home; but from the effects of this confinement -he has never recovered. - -He had no recollection of any of the circumstances which preceded his -incarceration. A raging fever, brought on by fatigue and exposure to the -sun in his previously weak state, had affected his brain, as well as -deprived him of all strength. But _Pepito_ (who rejoined us a few days -after,) stated, that Alonzo himself, in his delirium, had declared to -the French on their arrival, who he was, and had besought them to put -an end to his sufferings. The superior officer of the party had -directed, however, that he should not be ill-treated; "what if he be the -son of the _old wild boar_?" (the name by which they honoured me,) said -he to his men; "we came not to murder our enemies in cold blood--carry -him into the house and let him die in peace." - -_Pepito_ guessed by the malignant glance of one Italian-looking -scoundrel--"I ask your pardon, Senor Damien," said Don Luis, in a -parenthesis; "_servitore umilissimo_," replied he of the _Val -d'Aosta_.--_Pepe_ guessed, I say, by the look that he who stepped -forward to execute the orders of his officer gave one of his companions, -whom he invited to assist him, that their superior's humane intentions -would not be fulfilled; he begged hard, therefore, to be allowed to -remain and wait upon his young master. "Impossible," replied the -officer, "you must be our guide." - -The two men were absent but a few minutes, and then came out of the -house and informed the officer that they had placed the rebel chief in -the coolest place they could find; probably their fear of Alonzo's cries -had deterred them from killing him outright. - -The abominable cruelties of these dastards exasperated every one. The -expedition which was at this time undertaken to raise the siege of Cadiz -promised to afford us a favourable opportunity of taking vengeance; but -the cowardice of a Spaniard--the cowardice, if not treason, of a Spanish -general--marred our fair prospects. The glorious field of Barrosa decked -with fresh laurels the brows of our brave allies; but, to this day, the -very name fills the breast of every loyal Spaniard with shame. Oh! that -I and my people had been thereto share the danger and glory of that day; -but we fulfilled with credit the part allotted to us. In the plan -adopted by the allied generals it was settled that the _Serranos_, -should make a diversion in the direction of _Casa Vieja_ and _Alcala de -los Gazules_, to draw the enemy's attention on that side, whilst their -combined forces should proceed along the coast to Chiclana; accordingly -_io y mi gente_.... - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - DON LUIS'S NARRATIVE IS INTERRUPTED BY A BOAR--THE BATIDA - RESUMED--DEPARTURE FROM SANONA--ROAD TO CASA VIEJA--THE PRIEST'S - HOUSE--ADVENTURE WITH ITINERANT WINE-MERCHANTS--DEPARTURE FROM CASA - VIEJA--ALCALA DE LOS GAZULES--ROAD TO XIMENA--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR. - - -The old man, excited by the stirring recollections of the eventful times -to which his narrative referred, his eyes sparkling with animation, and -his words flowing somewhat more rapidly than in their wonted even -current, had risen from his rocky seat, and, having transferred his -fowling-piece to the left hand, was standing with his right arm extended -in the direction of the scene of his former exploits, when he suddenly -dropt his voice, and, after slowly, and, as it appeared to us, -abstractedly, repeating his favourite expression, "_Io y mi gente_," he -ceased altogether to speak, and appeared transfixed to the spot. His -right arm remained stretched out towards Cadiz, and his head was turned -slightly to one side, but the only motion perceptible was a tightening -of the fingers round the barrel of his long gun. - -As if from the effect of sympathy, Damien's jaws--which for the last -hour had been keeping _Hubilon_ in a state of tantalization, threatening -to produce St. Vitus's dance--suddenly became equally motionless; his -huge proboscis was turned on one side for a moment to allow free access -to his left ear, and then starting up he exclaimed, "_Javali! -cospetto!_"[110] - -"_Quiet ... o!_" said Don Luis, in an undertone, at the same time -motioning Damien to resume his seat, "_Si, es una puerca_."[111] And -then making signs to his men, they rose without a word, and went -stealthily off down the hill. - -We now distinctly heard the grunting of a pig, and were hastily -distributed in a semicircle, along the crest of the steep ridge we had -selected for our resting-place. We had scarcely got into position before -the cries of the beaters, and several shots fired in rapid succession, -gave us notice that they had come in sight of the chase; but the sounds -died away, and we were beginning to speak to each other in terms of -disappointment, when a loud grunt announced the vicinity of a visiter. -Hearing our voices, however, he went off at a tangent, and attempted to -cross the ridge lower down; but this was merely, as the Spaniards say, -"_Escapar del trueno y dar en el relampago_:"[112] a sharp fire there -opened upon him, and after various trips he was fairly brought to the -ground. Our _couteaux de chasse_ were instantly brandished, but the -grisly monster, recovering himself quickly, once more got into a long -trot, and, most probably, would have effected his escape, but that he -was encountered and turned back by some of the dogs. Finding himself -thus pressed on all sides by enemies, he again attempted to force the -line of sportsmen, and a second time was made to bite the dust. He -managed, nevertheless, to recover himself once more, and might, even yet -possibly, have got away from us but for the dogs, which hung upon and -detained him until some of the beaters came up and despatched him with -their knives; not, however, until he had killed one dog outright, and -desperately gored two others. The dogs showed extraordinary _pluck_ in -attacking him. - -On examining the huge monster, we found he had received no less than -four bullets: two in the neck, and two in the body. A fire was -immediately kindled, and, having been singed, to destroy the vermin -about him, he was decorated with laurel and holly, placed on the back of -a mule, and, with the rest of our spoils, sent off to the _Caseria_. - -The beaters informed us, that they had seen the wild sow and four young -ones, which Don Luis had sent them after; but that they had made off -through the wooded valley to the right, ere they could succeed in -heading and turning them up the hill. - -It was decided that we should proceed immediately after them, and leave -the conclusion of Don Luis's tale for the charcoal fire-circle in the -evening; but, as the rest of his story related principally to events -that are well known, and was all "_Santiago y cierra Espana_,"[113] I -will spare my readers the recital. - -The rest of the day's sport was poor, but the grand and ever-varying -mountain scenery was of itself an ample reward for the fatigue of -scrambling up the steep braes. Towards sunset we retraced our steps, -thoroughly tired, to the _Caseria_. Damien, mounting a stout mule, rode -on to prepare dinner, saying, "_Messieurs, sans doute, desireront gouter -du chevreuil de Sanone; vado avanti con questo motivo, e subito, subito, -all red-dy"_;[114] and, digging his heels into the animal's side, he -thereupon started off at a jog-trot, his huge feet sticking out at right -angles, like the paddle-boxes of a steamer, the smoke of a cigar rolling -away from his mouth, like the clouds from the steamer's tall black -funnel. - -On the following morning we departed from Sanona, taking the road to -Casa Vieja, and sending our game into Gibraltar. - -Don Luis would on no account receive any remuneration for the use of his -house, &c.; and a very moderate sum satisfied the beaters he had engaged -for us. - -The distance to Casa Vieja is about twelve miles, the country wild and -beautiful; but the view, after gaining a high pass, about three miles -from Sanona, is confined to the valley along which the road thenceforth -winds, until it reaches the river Celemin. This stream is frequently -rendered impassable by heavy rains. Emerging now from the woods and -mountains, the road soon reaches the Barbate, which river, though -running in a broad and level valley, is of a like treacherous character -as the Celemin. - -The little chapel and hamlet, whither we were directing our steps, now -became visible, being situated under the brow of a high hill on the -opposite bank of the river, and distant about a mile and a half. The -road across the valley is very deep in wet weather, and the Barbate is -often so swollen, as to render it necessary, in proceeding from Casa -Vieja to the towns to the eastward, to make a wide circuit to gain the -bridges of Vejer or Alcala de los Gazules. - -We "put up" at the house of the village priest, which adjoins the -chapel. Indeed the portion of his habitation allotted to our use was -under the same roof as the church, and communicated with it by a private -door; and I have been credibly informed that, on some occasions, when -the party of sportsmen has been large, beds have been made up within the -consecrated walls of the chapel itself, whereon some of the visiters -have stretched their wearied heretical limbs and rested their _aching_ -heads. In our case there was no occasion to lead the _Padre_ into the -commission of such a sin, since the small apartment given up to us was -just able to contain four stretchers, in addition to a large table. - -The priest was another "_amigo mio de mucha aprec'ion_"[115] of Senor -Damien. Their friendship was based upon the most solid of all -foundations--mutual interest; for, it being an understood thing that the -accommodation, and whatever else we might require, was to be paid for at -a fixed rate, both parties were interested in prolonging our stay: the -_Padre_, to gain wherewith to shorten the pains of purgatory, either for -himself or others; Damien, simply because he liked shooting better than -even baking in this world. - -To us also this was an agreeable arrangement, since it granted us a -dispensation from all ceremony in ordering whatever we wanted, and gave -us also the privilege of making the Padre's house our home as long as we -pleased. Accordingly, finding the sport good, we passed several days -here very pleasantly. The snipe and duck shooting in the marshes -bordering the Barbate is excellent; francolins, bustards, plover, and -partridges, are to be met with on the table-lands to the westward of the -village; and the woods towards Alcala and Vejer abound, at times, in -woodcocks. - -An adventure befel me during our short stay at Casa Vieja, which I -relate, as affording a ludicrous exemplification of the power of -flattery--an openness to which, that is to say, vanity, is certes the -great foible of the Spanish character. - -I had devoted one afternoon to a solitary ride to Vejer, (which town is -about eleven miles from Casa Vieja,) and had proceeded some little -distance on my way homewards, when, observing a very curious bird on a -marshy spot by the road-side, I dismounted--knowing my pony would not -stand fire--to take a shot at it. The gun missed fire, as I expected it -would; for, in consequence of its owner not having been able to -discharge it during the whole morning, I had lent him mine to visit the -snipe-marsh, and taken his to bear me company on my ride. The explosion -of the detonating cap was enough, however, to frighten my pony; he -started--jerked the bridle off my arm--and, finding himself free, -trotted away towards Casa Vieja. - -I ran after him for some distance, fondly hoping that the tempting green -herbage on the road-side would induce him to stop and taste, but my -accelerated speed had only the effect of quickening his; from a trot he -got into a canter, from a canter into a gallop; and, panting and -perspiring, I was soon obliged to abandon the chase, and trust that the -animal's natural sagacity would take him back to his stable. - -I had long lost sight of the runaway--for a thick wood soon screened him -from my view,--and had arrived within four miles of Casa Vieja, when I -met a party of very suspicious-looking characters, who, under the -pretence of being itinerant _wine-merchants_, were carrying contraband -goods about the country. They were all very noisy; all, seemingly, very -tipsy; and most of them armed with guns and knives. - -The van was led by a fat Silenus-looking personage, clothed in a shining -goatskin, and seated on a stout ass, between two well-filled skins of -wine; who saluted me with a very gracious wave of the hand, evidently to -save himself the trouble of speaking; but his followers greeted me with -the usual "_Vaya usted con Dios_;" to which one wag added, in an -undertone, "_y sin caballo_,"[116]--a piece of wit that put them all on -the grin. - -Regardless of their joke, I was about to make enquiries concerning my -pony, which it was evident they knew something about, when I discovered -a stout fellow, bringing up the rear of the party, astride of the -delinquent. Considering the disparity of force, and aware of the -unserviceable condition of my weapon, I thought it best to be remarkably -civil, so informing the gentleman riding my beast that I was its owner, -and extremely obliged to him for arresting the fugitive's course, I -requested he would only give himself the further trouble of dismounting, -and putting me in possession of my property. - -This, however, he positively refused to do. "How did he know I was the -owner? It might be so, and very possibly was, but I must go with him to -Vejer, and make oath to the fact before _la Justicia_." This, I said, -was out of the question: it was evident that the horse was mine, since I -had claimed him the moment I had seen him; and as, by his own admission, -he had found the animal, he must have done so out of my sight, since we -were now in a thick wood. If, I added, he chose to return with me to -Casa Vieja, the _Padre_, at whose house I was staying, would convince -him of the truth of my statement, and I would remunerate him for his -trouble. But I argued in vain! "If," he replied, "I felt disposed to -give him an _onza_,[117] he would save _me_ further trouble, but -otherwise justice must take its course." - -I remarked that the _haca_ was not worth much more than a doubloon. -"No!" exclaimed one of the party, jumping off his mule, thrusting his -hand into his belt, and producing _two_, "I'll give you these without -further bargaining." - -This occasioned a laugh at my expense. I turned it off, however, by -telling my friend, that if he would bring his money to Gibraltar we -might possibly deal; but, as I had occasion for my pony to carry me back -there, I could not at that moment conveniently part with him. - -There seemed but slight chance, however, of my recovering my pony -without trudging back to Vejer; and, probably, they would have ridden -off, and laughed at me, after proceeding half way; or by paying a -handsome ransom, which I was, in fact, unable to do, having only the -value of a few shillings about me. - -The dispute was getting warm, and my patience exhausted; for vain were -my representations that the _haca could_ belong to no one else--that the -saddle, bridle, and even the very _tail_ of the animal, were all -English. The Don kept his seat, and coolly asked, whether I thought -they could not make as good saddles, and cut as short tails, in Spain? - -The party had halted during this altercation, and old Silenus, who, by -his dress and position, seemed to be the head of the _firm_, had taken -no part in the dispute. He appeared, indeed, to be so drowsy, as to be -quite unconscious of what was passing. I determined, however, to make an -appeal to him, and summoning the best Spanish I could muster to my aid, -called upon him as a Spanish _hidalgo_, a man of honour, and a person of -sense, as his appearance bespoke, to see justice done me. - -He had heard, I continued, in fact he had _seen_, how the case stood; -and was it to be believed that a foreigner travelling in Spain--perhaps -the most enlightened country in the world--and trusting to the -well-known national probity, should be thus shamefully plundered? An -Englishman, above all others, who, having fought in the same ranks -against a common enemy, looked upon every individual of the brave -Spanish nation as a brother! Could a people so noted for honour, -chivalry, gratitude, and every known virtue, be guilty of so bare-faced -an imposition? - -Oh, "flattery! delicious essence, how refreshing art thou to nature! how -strongly are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side!" - -"_Baj' usted!_" grunted forth Silenus to the man mounted on my pony, -accompanying the words with a circular motion of his right arm towards -the earth. "_Baj' usted luego!_"[118] repeated the irate leader in a -louder tone, seeing that there was a disposition to resist his commands. -"Mount your horse, caballero," he continued, turning to me, "you have -not over-estimated the Spanish character." - -I did not require a second bidding, but, vaulting into the vacated -saddle, pushed my pony at once into a canter, replying to the man's -application for something for his trouble, by observing, that I did not -reward people for merely obeying the orders of their superiors; and, -kissing my hand to the fat old Satyr, rode off, amidst the laughter -occasioned by the discomfiture of the dismounted knight. - -On the morning fixed for our departure from Casa Vieja, Damien came to -us at a very early hour--a smile breaking through an assumed cloudy -expression of countenance--to report that the Barbate was so swollen by -the rain which had fallen without cessation during the night, as to be -no longer fordable: "_Nous pouvons demeurer encore trois ou quatre -jours_," he added, "_car il nous reste de quoi manger--du the, du sucre, -du jambon, un bon morceau de bouilli de rosbif, et autres bagatelles; et -comme il fait beau temps a present, puede ser que havra una entrada de -gallinetas esta noche--no es verdad Senor Padre?_"[119] turning to the -priest, who had followed him into the room. - -We were prepared for this contingency, however, and, stating that we -_must_ go, signified our intention of returning home by way of Alcala de -los Gazules. Damien was horror-struck. "_Corpo di Bacco! Messieurs, -celle la est la plus mauvaise route du pays! e infestata di cattivissima -gente, ad ogni passo. No es verdad, Don Diego, que esa trocha de Alcala -alla 'se llama el camino del infierno!_" "_Si, si_," replied the -priestly lodging-house keeper with a nod, "_tan verdad como la Santa -Escritura._"[120] - -Finding, however, that we were bent on departing, Don Diego went to make -his bill out; and Damien, now truly alarmed, proposed that, at all -events, we should take the shorter and more practicable route homewards, -by way of Vejer. But the name of the other had taken our fancy, and -orders were given accordingly, our departure being merely postponed -until the afternoon; for, as it would be necessary to sleep at Alcala, -which is but nine miles from Casa Vieja, we agreed to have another brush -at the snipes ere leaving the place. - -In the afternoon we set out. At two miles from Casa Vieja the road -crosses a tributary stream to the Barbate, which reached up to our -saddle-girths, and then traverses some wooded hills for about an equal -distance. The rest of the way is over an extensive flat. - -Little is seen of Alcala but an old square tower, and the ruined walls -of its Moorish castle, in approaching it on this side. The town is built -on a rocky peninsulated eminence, which, protruding from a ridge of -sierra that overlooks the place to the east, stretches about a mile in a -southerly direction, and, excepting along the narrow neck that connects -it with this mountain-range, is every where extremely difficult of -access. A road, however, winds up to the town by a steep ravine on the -south-eastern side of the rugged eminence; and a good approach has also -been made, though with much labour, at its northern extremity. The river -Barbate washes the western side of the mound, and across it, and -somewhat above the town--which is huddled together along the northern -crest of the ridge--a solid stone bridge presents itself, where the -roads from Casa Vieja, Medina Sidonia, and Xeres, concentrate. - -The ascent from the bridge, as I have mentioned, is good, but very -steep. The position of the town is most formidable; its walls, however, -are all levelled; and, of the castle, the square tower, or keep, alone -remains. The streets are narrow, but not so steep as we expected to find -them, and they are remarkably well paved. The houses are poor, though -some trifling manufactories of cloths and tanneries give the place a -thriving look. Its population amounts to about 9000 souls. - -_This_ Alcala receives its distinctive name of "_los Gazules_" (i.e. the -Castle of the Gazules), from a tribe of Moors so called; but what Roman -city stood here is a mere matter of conjecture. - -The inn afforded but indifferent accommodation; but our host and hostess -were obliging people, and very good-naturedly made over to us the olla -prepared for their own supper. It was a fine specimen of the culinary -art; the savoury odour alone, that exuded from the bubbling stew, drew a -smile from Damien's unusually lugubrious countenance; and, on afterwards -witnessing the justice we did to its merits, he kindly wished--with a -doubt-implying compression of the lips--that we might have as good an -appetite to enjoy as good a supper on the following night. - -We set out at daybreak, accompanied by a guide, though, I think, we -could have dispensed with his services. The road enters the Serrania, -immediately on leaving Alcala, taking an easterly direction, and -ascends for five miles by a rock-bound valley, partially under -cultivation, and watered by several streams, along which mills are -thickly scattered. On leaving them behind, the country becomes very wild -and desolate; the mountains ahead appear quite impracticable; and, long -ere we reached their base, the Piedmontese march had several times -resounded through the rocky gorges that encompassed us. - -At length we began to scramble up towards a conical pinnacle, called _El -Penon de Sancho_,[121] which presents a perpendicular face, to the -south-west, of some hundreds of feet, and whose white cap, standing out -from the dark sierra behind, is a landmark all along the coast from -Cipiona to Cape Trafalgar. - -We soon attained a great elevation, crossing a pass between the _Penon -de Sancho_ and the main sierra on our left. The view, looking back -towards Cadiz, is magnificent, and the scenery for the next four miles -continues to be of the most splendid kind, the road being conducted -along the side of the great sierra _Monteron_, and by the pass of _La -Brocha_ to the sierra _Cantarera_. - -The road is by no means so bad as, from the name it bears, we were -prepared to expect; in fact, there are many others in the Serrania of a -far more infernal character. After riding about four hours--a distance -of twelve miles--we reached a verdant little vale, enclosed on all sides -by rude mountains, wherein the Celemin takes its rise, and whence it -wends its way through a deep and thickly wooded ravine to the south. -This gullet is called the _Garganta de los Estudientes_, from the -circumstance, as our guide informed us, of some scholars having ventured -down it who never afterwards were heard of--to which story Damien -listened with great dismay. - -We halted at this delightful spot for half an hour, as well to breathe -our horses as to examine the contents of Damien's _alforjas_, who took -his meal, pistol in hand, for fear of a surprise. Continuing our -journey, we had to traverse some more very difficult country, the views -from which were now towards Ximena, Casares, Gibraltar, and the -Mediterranean; including an occasional peep of Castellar, as we advanced -to the eastward. - -At four miles and a half from our resting-place, the road branches into -two, the left proceeding to Ximena (five miles and a half), the other -leading toward Estepona, and the towns bordering the Mediterranean. -Taking the latter path, in about two hours we reached the river -Sogarganta, along the right bank of which is conducted the main road -from Ximena to Gibraltar. - -Damien's countenance brightened on his once more finding himself in "_un -pays reconnu_," and, turning joyfully into the well-known track, he -struck up one of his most _scherzosa_ arias; the heretofore dreaded -_Boca de Leones_ and Almoraima forest (which we had yet to pass), being -robbed of their terrors by the superior dangers we had safely -surmounted; and, in the words of the favourite poet of his country, - - _"Dopo sorte si funesta_ - _Sara placida quest alma_ - _E godra--tornata in calma--_ - _I perigli rammentar."_ - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - DEPARTURE FOR MADRID--CORDON DRAWN ROUND THE CHOLERA--RONDA--ROAD - TO CORDOBA--TEBA--ERRONEOUS POSITION OF THE PLACE ON THE SPANISH - MAPS--ITS LOCALITY AGREES WITH THAT OF ATEGUA, AS DESCRIBED BY - HIRTIUS, AND THE COURSE OF THE RIVER GUADALJORCE WITH THAT OF THE - SALSUS--ROAD TO CAMPILLOS--THE ENGLISH-LOVING INNKEEPER AND HIS - WIFE--AN ALCALDE'S DINNER SPOILT--FUENTE DE PIEDRA--ASTAPA--PUENTE - DON GONZALO--RAMBLA--CORDOBA--MEETING WITH AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. - - -The next and last excursion of which I purpose extracting some account -from my notebook, was commenced with the intention of proceeding from -Gibraltar to Madrid, late in the autumn of the year 1833; at which time, -the cholera having broken out in various parts of the kingdom of -Seville, it was necessary to "shape a course" that should not subject my -companion and self to the purifying process of a lazaret; a rigid -quarantine system having been adopted by the other kingdoms bordering -the infected territory. - -We hired three horses for the journey; that is to say, for any portion -of it we might choose to perform on horseback: two for ourselves, and -one to carry our portmanteaus, as well as the _mozo_ charged with their -care and our guidance. - -We found, on enquiry, that by avoiding two or three towns lying upon the -road, we could reach Cordoba without deviating much from the direct -route to that city, whence we purposed continuing our journey to the -capital by the diligence. We proceeded accordingly to Ronda, which place -being in the kingdom of Granada, was open to us; and thither I will at -once transport my readers, the road to it having already been fully -described. After sojourning a couple of days at the little capital of -the Serrania, comforting my numerous old and kind friends with the -opinion (which the event, I was happy to find, confirmed), that the new -enemy against which their country had to contend--the dreaded -cholera--would not cross the mountain barrier that defended their city; -we proceeded on our journey, taking the road to Puente Don Gonzalo, on -the Genil, thereby avoiding Osuna, which lay upon the direct road to -Cordoba, but in the infected district. - -In an hour from the time of our leaving Ronda, we crossed the rocky -gulley which has been noticed as traversing the fertile basin in which -the city stands, laterally, bearing the little river Arriate to irrigate -its western half, and in the course of another hour reached the northern -extremity of this fruitful district. The hills here offer an easy egress -from the rock-bound basin; but, though nature has left this one level -passage through the mountains, art has taken no advantage of it to -improve the state of the road, for a viler _trocha_ is not to be met -with, even in the rudest part of the Serrania. - -The view of the rich plain and dark battlements of Ronda is remarkably -fine. - -After winding amongst some round-topped hills, the road at length -reaches a narrow rocky pass, which closes the view of the vale of Ronda, -and a long deep valley opens to the north, the mouth of which appears -closed by a barren mountain, crowned by the old castle of _Teba_. - -The path now undergoes a slight improvement, and, after passing some -singular table-rocks, and leaving the little village of _La Cueva del -Becerro_ on the left, reaches the _venta de Virlan_. We, however, had -inadvertently taken a track that, inclining slightly to the right, led -us into the bottom of the valley, and in about four miles (from the -pass) brought us to the miserable little village of _Serrato_. The -proper road, from which we had strayed, keeps along the side of the -hills, about half a mile off, on the left; and upon it, and three miles -from the first venta, is another, called _del Ciego_. Yet a little -further on, but situated on an elevated ridge overlooking the valley, is -the little town of _Canete la Real_. - -From Serrato our road led us to the old castle of Ortoyecar, ere -rejoining the direct route; which it eventually does, about a mile -before reaching the foot of the mountain of Teba. - -This singular feature is connected by a very low pass with the chain of -sierra on the left, and, stretching from west to east about -three-quarters of a mile, terminates precipitously along the river -_Guadaljorce_. The road, crossing over the pass, and leaving on the -right a steep paved road, that zig-zags up the mountain, winds round to -the west, keeping under the precipitous sides of the ridge, and avoiding -the town of Teba, which, perched on the very summit, but having a -northern aspect, can only be seen when arrived at the north side of the -rude mound; and there another winding road offers the means of access to -the place. - -The base of the mountain is, on this side, bathed by a little rivulet -that flows eastward to the Guadaljorce, called the _Sua de Teba_. It is -erroneously marked on the Spanish maps as running on the south side of -the ridge, but the only stream which is there to be met with, is a -little rivulet that takes its rise near Becerro and waters the valley by -which we had descended; and it does not approach within a mile of Teba, -but sweeps round to the eastward a little beyond the old castle of -Ortoyecar, and discharges itself into the river Ardales. - -The deep-sunk banks and muddy bottom of the _Suda de Teba_, render it -impassable excepting at the bridge. This rickety structure is apparently -the same which existed in the time of Rocca, who, in his "Memoirs of the -War in Spain," gives a very spirited account of the military operations -of the French and _serranos_ in this neighbourhood. - -The locality of Teba is most faithfully described by that author; indeed -I know no one who has given so graphic an account of this part of Spain -generally. - -The ascent to the town on this (the northern) side, is yet more -difficult than that in the opposite direction; but the place will amply -repay the labour of a visit, for the view from it is extremely fine, and -the extensive ruins of its ancient defences, evidently of Roman -workmanship, are well worthy of observation. - -The position of Teba, with reference to other places in the -neighbourhood, and to the circumjacent country, is so inaccurately given -in all maps which I have seen, that the antiquaries seem quite to have -overlooked it as the probable site of _Ategua_, so celebrated for its -obstinate defence against Julius Caesar. - -Morales--without the slightest grounds, as far as the description of the -country accords with the assumption--imagined _Ategua_ to have stood -where he maintains some ruins, "called by the country-people _Teba la -Vieja_," are to be seen between Castro el Rio and Codoba; but, as I -pointed out in the case of Ronda, and Ronda _la Vieja_, it is absurd to -suppose that an _old Teba_ could ever have existed, since Teba itself is -a Roman town, and its present name a mere corruption of that which it -bore in times past. - -Other Spanish authors place _Ategua_ at Castro el Rio, some at Baena, -some elsewhere; but almost all appear anxious to fix its site near the -river Guadajoz, which they have determined, in their own minds, must be -the _Salsus_ mentioned by Hirtius. - -La Martiniere, with his usual _inaccuracy_, says, that the Guadajoz -falls into the _Salado_: he should rather have said, that it is _formed_ -from the confluence of _various salados_; for, as I have elsewhere -observed, salado is a general term for all water-courses, and not the -name of a river.[122] - -It seems, however, probable, that the Romans gave the name _Salsus_ to -some river impregnated with salt, which many streams in this part of -Spain are; and since there is an extensive salt-lake still existing near -Alcaudete, on the very margin of the Guadajoz, that river has hastily -been concluded to be that of the Roman historian. But, it appears -strange, if the Guadajoz be the Salsus of Hirtius, that Pliny, when -describing the course of the Boetis, and the principal streams which -fell into it, should have omitted to mention that river, as being one of -its affluents; for the Salsus, from the recentness of the war between -Caesar and the sons of Pompey, must have been much spoken of in Pliny's -time. - -But what, to me, proves most satisfactorily that the _Guadajoz_ is _not_ -the Salsus, is, that it so ill agrees with the minute description given -of the river by Hirtius himself;--for, in speaking of the Salsus he -says,[123] "It runs through the plains, and _divides_ them from the -mountains, which all lie upon the side of Ategua, at about two miles' -distance from the river;" and again, "But what proved principally -favourable to Pompey's design of drawing out the war, was the nature of -the country, (i. e. about Ategua) full of mountains, and extremely well -adapted to encampments;"[124] and, from what again follows, it is -evident that Ategua stood upon the summit of a mountain. - -Now the Guadajoz nowhere runs so as to _divide_ the plains from the -mountains. It _issues from_ the mountains of Alcala Real, many miles -before reaching Castro el Rio, and between that last-named town and -Cordoba, there is no ground that can be called mountainous. - -The country bordering the Guadajoz, in the lower part of its course, -differs as decidedly with the statement that the neighbourhood of Ategua -was "full of mountains," if we suppose the town to have stood anywhere -_below_ Castro el Rio. - -It is again improbable that Ategua could have stood on the site of the -supposed _Teba la Vieja_, or any place in that neighbourhood, since it -is mentioned[125] as being a great provision depot of the Pompeians; -which would scarcely have been the case had it been within twenty miles -of the city of Cordoba. And again, it is not likely that Caesar would -have commenced the campaign by laying siege to a place within such a -short distance of Cordoba, since the invested town might so readily have -received succour from that city, and his adversary would, by such a -step, have had the advantage of combining all his forces to attack him -during the progress of the siege. - -Again, another objection presents itself, namely, that Ategua is -represented as a particularly strong place,[126] which, from the nature -of the ground in that part of the country--that is, between Castro el -Rio and Cordoba--no town could well have been; situation, rather than -art, constituting the strength of towns in those days. - -We will now return to Teba, the locality of which agrees infinitely -better with the account of Ategua given by Hirtius, whilst the River -_Guadaljorce_, which flows in its vicinity, answers perfectly his -description of the Salsus; for, along its right bank a plain extends all -the way to the Genil; on its left, "at two miles' distance," rises a -wall of Sierra; and the whole country, beyond, is "full of mountains, -all lying on the side of" Teba. That is to say, the mountain range -continues in the same direction, and possesses the same marked -character, although the Guadaljorce breaks through it ere reaching so -far west as Teba; for, by a vagary of nature, this stream quits the wide -plain of the Genil to throw itself into a rocky gorge, and after -describing a very tortuous course, gains, at length, the vale of Malaga. - -Now this very circumstance strikes me, on attentive consideration, as -tending rather to strengthen than otherwise the supposition that Teba -is Ategua; for Caesar's army is not stated to have _crossed_ the Salsus -on its march from Cordoba to Ategua; from which we must conclude that -Ategua was on the _right_ bank of the river; whilst other circumstances -prove that the town was some distance from the river, and encompassed by -mountains. - -Pompey, however, following Caesar from Cordoba, and proceeding to the -relief of Ategua, _crosses the Salsus_, and fixes his camp "on these -mountains (i. e. the mountains 'which all lie on the side of Ategua') -between Ategua and Ucubis, but within sight of both places," being, as -is distinctly said afterwards, separated from his adversary by the -Salsus. - -Thus, therefore, though his camp was on the same range of mountains as -Ategua, yet he was separated from that town by a river: a peculiarity, -in the formation of the ground, which suits the locality of Teba, but -would be difficult to make agree with any other place. - -The only very apparent objection to this hypothesis is, that Caesar's -cavalry is mentioned as having, on one occasion, pursued the foraging -parties of his adversary "almost to the very walls of Codoba." But this -was when Pompey (after his first failure to relieve Ategua) had drawn -off his army towards Cordoba. It does not follow, therefore, that -Caesar's troops pursued his adversary's parties from Ategua, though he -was still besieging that place, but it may rather be supposed that his -cavalry was sent after the enemy to harass them on their march, and -watch their future movements. - -One might, indeed, on equally good grounds, maintain that Ategua was -_within a day's march of Seville_; since, on Pompey's finally abandoning -the field, Hirtius says,[127] "the same day he decamped, (from Ucubis, -which was within sight of Ategua) and posted himself in an olive wood -over against Hispalis." - -With respect to this knotty point of distance it is further to be -observed, that on Caesar's breaking up his camp from before Cordoba, his -march is spoken of as being _towards_ Ategua, implying that the two -places did not lie within a day's march of each other; and the -supposition that they were more than a few leagues apart is strengthened -by the place, and order in which Ategua is mentioned by the methodical -Pliny; viz., amongst the cities lying between the Boetis and the -Mediterranean Sea, and next in succession to _Singili_,[128] which, -doubtless, was on the southern bank of the Genil, towards Antequera. - -The Guadaljorce has as good claims to the name of _Salsus_, as any other -river in the country, since the mountains about Antequera, amongst -which it takes its rise, were in former days noted for the quantity of -salt they produced; and though the river Guadaljorce now carries its -name to the sea, yet, in the time of the Romans, such was not the case; -for, in those days, by whatever name that river may have been -distinguished, it was dropt on forming its junction with the Sigila, -(now the Rio Grande) in the _vega_ of Malaga, although, of the two, the -latter is the inferior stream. - -The fort of Ucubis, stated by Hirtius to have been destroyed by Caesar, -we may suppose stood on the side of the mountains overlooking the Salsus -or Guadaljorce, towards Antequera; and it does not seem improbable that -that city is the _Soricaria_ mentioned by the same historian; for -_Anticaria_, though noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is not -amongst the cities of Boetica enumerated by Pliny. - -Teba was taken from the Moors by Alphonso XI., A.D. 1340. The -inhabitants are a savage-looking tribe, and boast of having kept the -French at bay during the whole period of the "war of independence."[129] - -There is a tolerable venta at the foot of the hill, near the bridge, at -which we baited our horses. The distance from Ronda to Teba is 21 miles; -from hence to Campillos is about six; the country is undulated, and -road good, crossing several brooks, some flowing eastward to the -Guadaljorce, others in the opposite direction to the Genil. - -Campillos is situated at the commencement of a vast track of perfectly -level country, that extends all the way to the river Genil. By some -strange mistake it is laid down in the Spanish maps due east of Teba, -whereas it is nearly north. It is four leagues (or about seventeen -miles) from Antequera, and five leagues from Osuna. It is a neat town, -clean, and well-paved, and contains 1000 _vecinos escasos_;[130] which -may be reckoned at 5000 souls, six being the number usually calculated -per _vecino_. - -Campillos lies just within the border of the kingdom of Seville, and -was, therefore, on forbidden ground; since, had we entered it, our clean -bills of health would have been thereby tainted. We were consequently -obliged to skirt round the town at a tether of several hundred yards. I -regretted this much, for the place contains an excellent _posada_, -bearing the--to Protestant ears--somewhat profane sign of "_Jesus -Nazarino_," and its keepers were old cronies of mine, our friendship -having commenced some years before under rather peculiar circumstances, -viz., in travelling from Antequera to Ronda, my horse met with an -accident which obliged me to halt for the night at Campillos. Leaving to -my servant the task of ordering dinner at the inn, I proceeded on foot -to examine the town, and gain, if possible, some elevated spot in its -vicinity whence I could obtain a good view of the country, being -desirous to correct the mistake before alluded to, in the relative -positions of Teba and Campillos on the maps. - -Having found a point suited to this purpose, from whence I could see -both Teba and the _Penon de los Enamorados_, (a remarkable conical -mountain near Antequera,) I drew forth a pocket surveying compass, and -took the bearings of those two points, as well as of several other -conspicuous objects in the neighbourhood. - -These ill-understood proceedings caused the utmost astonishment to a -group of idlers, who, at a respectful distance, but with significant -nods and mysterious whisperings, were narrowly watching my operations. -These concluded, and the result of my observations committed to my -pocket-book, I took a slight outline sketch of the bold range of -mountains that stretches towards Granada, and returned to the inn. - -On my first arrival there, I had merely addressed the usual compliment -of the country to the innkeeper and his wife, and now, repeating my -salutation to the lady--who only was present--I seated myself at the -fire-place of the common apartment, and began writing in my pocket-book, -replying very laconically to her various attempts at conversation; and -at length obtaining no immediate answer to another endeavour to _draw me -out_, she said, addressing herself, "_no entiende_,"[131] and offered no -further interruptions to my scribbling. - -I confess to the practice of a little deceit in the matter, as my -answers certainly must have led her to believe that I was a very _tyro_ -at the Spanish vocabulary--a fancy in which I used often to indulge the -natives when I wished to shirk conversation. - -Soon afterwards the _Posadero_ came in, and a whispered communication -took place between him and his spouse, which gradually acquiring _tone_, -I at length was able to catch distinctly, and heard the following -conversation. - -"You are quite certain he does not understand Spanish?" said mine host. - -"Not a syllable," replied his helpmate. - -"He is about no good here, wife, that I can tell you." - -"There does not appear to be much mischief in him." - -"We must not trust to looks; I was at the chapel of the Rosario just -now, and he walked up there, took an instrument from his pocket, marked -down all the principal points of the country, and then drew them in that -little book he is now writing in ... are you quite sure he does not -understand Spanish?--I observed him smile just now." - -"_No tienes cuidado_,"[132] replied the wife; "I have tried him on all -points." - -"Depend upon it he is _mapeando el pais_,"[133] resumed the husband. - -"I think you ought forthwith to give notice of his doings to the -_Justicia_," answered the lady. - -"Ay, and lose a good customer by having him taken to prison!" rejoined -the patriotic innkeeper; "time enough to do that in the morning after he -has paid his bill; but as to the propriety of giving information wife, I -agree with you perfectly." - -"He must be one of the rascally _gavachos_ from Cadiz," (a French -garrison at this time occupied that fortress,) "but what right has he to -take his notes of our _pueblo_?[134] I thought of questioning the -servant, who does speak a few words of Spanish, before he took the -horses to the smithy, but Don Guillelmo came in and put it out of my -head. Suppose I make another attempt to find out from himself what -brings him here?" - -"Do so," said her lord and master; and, with this permission, she -advanced towards me with a very gracious smile, and _articulating_ every -syllable most distinctly, in the hope of making her interrogation -perfectly intelligible, "begged to know if my worship was a Frenchman." - -"_Yo_," said I, pointing to myself, as if I did not clearly understand -her; "_nix_." - -"_Ingles?_" demanded she, returning to the charge. - -"_Si_," replied I, with a nod affirmative. - -"_Valga mi Dios!_" exclaimed she, turning to her husband; "he is -English! how delighted I am! what a time it is since I saw an -Englishman! how can we make him comfortable?" - -"_Poco a poco_,"[135] observed the inn-keeper--"English or French he has -no business to be _mapeando_ our country, and the Alcalde ought to know -of it." - -"_Disparate!_"[136] exclaimed the wife; "what does his _mapeando_ -signify if he is an Englishman? are they not our best friends?[137] Is -it not the same as if a Spaniard were doing it, only that it will be -better done?" - -"Very true," admitted mine host; "they have, indeed, been our friends, -and will soon again, I trust, give us a proof of their friendship, by -assisting to drive these French scoundrels across the Pyrenees, and -allowing us to settle our own differences." - -Pocketing my memorandum book, I now rose from my seat and addressing the -landlady, "_con gentil donayre y talante_,"[138] as Don Quijote says, -asked, in the best Castillian I could put together, when it was probable -I should have dinner, as from having been the greater part of the -morning on horseback, I was not only very hungry, but should be glad to -retire early to my bed. - -Never were two people more astonished than mine host and his spouse at -this address. Had I detected them in the act of pilfering my saddlebags, -they could not have looked more guilty. They offered a thousand -apologies, but seemed to think the greatest affront they had put upon me -was that of mistaking me for a Frenchman. - -"I ought at once to have known you were no braggart _gavacho_," said the -landlord, "by your not making a noise on entering the house--calling for -every thing and abusing every body--How do you think one of these -gentry, who came into Spain as _friends_, to tranquillize the country, -behaved to our _Alcalde_? The Frenchman wanted a billet, and finding the -office shut, went to the _Alcalde's_ house for it. The _Alcalde_ was at -dinner with a couple of friends; he begged the officer to be seated, -saying he would send for the _Escribano_ and have a billet made out for -him--'And am I to be kept waiting for your clerk?' said the Frenchman; -'a pretty joke, indeed.' 'He will be here in an instant,' said the -_Alcalde_; 'pray have a little patience, and be seated.' 'Patience, -indeed!' exclaimed the other; 'make the billet out directly yourself, or -I'll pull the house about your ears.' '_Juicio!_ senor,' replied the -Mayor; 'do you not see that I am at dinner?' 'What are you at _now_?' -said the Frenchman; and, laying hold of one corner of the tablecloth, he -drew it, plates, dishes, glasses, and every thing, off the table. This -is the way our French _friends_ behave to us!" - -I now satisfied the worthy couple that their fears of mischief arising -from my "_mapeando el pais_," were quite groundless; and mine host -showed great intelligence in comprehending what I wished to correct in -the Spanish map; the error in which he saw at once, when I pointed to -the setting sun; his wife standing by and exclaiming "_que gente tan -fina los Ingleses_!"[139] - -No advantage was taken of the knowledge of _my_ country in making out -_the bill_, and I departed next morning with their prayers that I might -travel in company with all the saints in the calendar. - -The direct road from Campillos to Cordoba is by way of La Rodd; but, in -the present instance, it was necessary to avoid that town, and proceed -to _La Fuente de Piedra_, which is situated a few miles to the eastward, -and without the sanitory circle drawn round the cholera. - -The distance from Campillos to this place is two long leagues, which may -be reckoned nine miles. - -_La Fuente de Piedra_ is a small village, of about sixty houses, -surrounded with olive-grounds, and abounding in crystal springs. The -medicinal virtues of one of these sources (which rises in the middle of -the place) led to the building of the village; and the painful disease -for which in especial this fountain is considered a sovereign cure, has -given its name to the place. We arrived very late in the evening, and -found the _posada_ most miserable. - -On leaving _La Fuente de Piedra_ we took the road to _Puente Don -Gonzalo_, and at about three miles from the village crossed the great -road from Granada to Seville, which is practicable for carriages the -greater part, but _not all_ the way; a little beyond this the _Sierra de -Estepa_ rises on the left of the route, to the height of several hundred -feet above the plain. The town of Estepa is not seen, being on the -western side of the hill; it is supposed to be the Astapa of the -Romans, the horrible destruction of which is related by Livy. - -The inhabitants, on the approach of Scipio, aware of the exasperated -feelings of the Romans towards them, piled all their valuables in the -centre of the forum, placed their wives and children upon the top, and -leaving a few of their young men to set fire to the pile in the event of -their defeat, rushed out upon the Roman army. They were all killed, the -pile was lighted, and a heap of ashes was the only trophy of their -conquerors. - -The Roman historian says, the people of Astapa "delighted in robberies." -I wonder if he thought his countrymen exempt from similar propensities! - -In three hours we reached Cazariche. The road merely skirts the village, -being separated from it by an abundant stream, which, serving to -irrigate numerous gardens and orchards, renders the last league of the -ride very agreeable, which otherwise, from the flatness of the country -to the eastward, would be uninteresting. This rivulet is called _La -Salada_; but its volume is far too small to make one suppose for a -moment that it is the _Salsus_. - -At five miles from Cazariche, keeping along the left bank of the Salada -the whole distance, but not crossing it, as marked on the maps, the road -reaches Miragenil. This is a small village, situated on the southern -bank of the Genil, and communicating, by means of a bridge, with _Puente -Don Gonzalo_. - -The river here forms the division between the kingdoms of Seville and -Cordoba; and the two governments not having agreed as to the superior -merits of wood or stone, one-half the bridge is built of the former, the -other half of the latter material. - -Puente Don Gonzalo stands on a steep acclivity, commanding the bridge -and river. It is a town of some consideration, containing several -manufactories of household furniture, numerous mills, and a population -of 6000 souls. - -Florez, on the authority of a _stone_ found _near_ Cazariche (which he -calls Casaliche), whereon the word VENTIPO was inscribed, supposed -_Ventisponte_,[140] to have been situated somewhere in the vicinity of -Puente Don Gonzalo. But if this stone had been _carried_ to Cazariche, -it may have been taken there from any other point of the compass as well -as from that in which Puente Don Gonzalo is situated. - -Other authorities suppose this town to be on the site of Singilis; but -that place, as already stated, has been pretty clearly proved to have -been nearer Antequera. - -The "_provechasos aguas del divino Genil_,"[141] after cleansing the -town of Puente Don Gonzalo, are turned to the best possible account, in -irrigating gardens and turning mill-wheels; and the road to Cordoba, -after proceeding for about a mile along the verdant valley that -stretches to the westward, ascends the somewhat steep bank which pens in -the stream to the north, and for four hours wanders over a flat -uninteresting country to Rambla; passing, in the whole distance of -fifteen miles, but two running streams, three farm-houses, and the -miserable village of Montalban. This latter is distant about a mile and -a half from Rambla. - -We saw but little of this town, having arrived late at night, and -departed from it at an early hour on the following morning; but it is of -considerable size, and situated on the north side of a steep hill. We -found the inn excessively dirty and exorbitantly dear; indeed it may be -laid down as a general rule with Spanish as well as Swiss inns, that the -charges are high in proportion to the _badness_ of the fare and -accommodation. - -The ground in the vicinity of Rambla is planted chiefly with vines, and -but two short leagues to the eastward is situated Montilla, where, in -the estimation of Spaniards, the best wine of the province is grown. It -is extremely dry; and, as I have mentioned before, gives its name to the -Sherry called _Amontillado_. - -Rambla is just midway between Puente Don Gonzalo and Cordoba, viz. -sixteen miles from each. The country is hilly, and mostly under tillage, -but where its cultivators reside puzzles one to guess, as there is not a -house on the road in the whole distance, and but two towns visible from -it, viz. Montemayor and Fernan Nunez, both within six miles of Rambla. - -The first-named of these places disputes with Montilla the honour of -being the Roman city of _Ulia_, the only inland town of Boetica that -held out for Caesar against the sons of Pompey, previous to his arrival -in the country.[142] It appears doubtful[143] whether _Ulia_ is -mentioned by Pliny, but it is noticed in the Roman Itinerary (_Gadibus -Cordubam_) as eighteen miles from Cordoba, a distance that agrees better -with Montilla than Montemayor; indeed the former almost declares itself -in the very name it yet bears, _Montilla_; the double _l_ in Spanish -having the liquid sound of _li_, making it a corruption of _Mont Ulia_. - -At about four miles from Cordoba the Guadajoz, or river of Castro, is -crossed by fording, and between it and the Guadalquivir the ground is -broken by steep hills. The road falls into the _Arrecife_ from Seville, -on reaching the suburb on the left bank of the river. - -We took up our abode at the _Posada de la Mesangeria_; a particularly -comfortable house, as Spanish inns go, that had been opened for the -accommodation of the diligence travellers since my former visit to the -city. The _patio_, ornamented with a bubbling fountain of icy-cold -water, and shaded with a profusion of all sorts of rare creepers and -flowering shrubs, afforded a cool retreat at all hours of the day; -which, though we were in the month of October, was very acceptable. - -Whilst seated at breakfast, under the colonnade that encompasses the -court, the morning after our arrival, the master of the inn waited upon -us to know if we required a _valet de place_ during our sojourn at -Cordoba, as a very intelligent old man, who spoke French like a native, -and was in the habit of attending upon _caballeros forasteros_[144] in -the above-named capacity, was then in the house, and begged to place his -services at our disposition. - -I replied, that having before visited his city, I considered myself -sufficiently acquainted with its _sights_ to be able to dispense with -this, otherwise useful, personage's attendance; but our host seemed so -desirous that we should employ the old man, "We might have little -errands to send him upon--some purchases to make; in fact, we should -find the Tio Blas so useful in any capacity, and it would be such an -act of charity to employ him,"--that we finally acceded to his proposal, -and the _Tio_ was accordingly ushered in. - -He was a tall, and, though emaciated, still erect old man, whose -tottering gait, and white and scanty hairs, would have led to the belief -that his years had already exceeded the number usually allotted to the -life of man, but that his deep-sunk eyes were shaded by dark and -beatling brows, and yet sparkled occasionally with the fire of youth; -proving that hardships and misfortunes had brought him somewhat -prematurely to the brink of the grave. - -It struck me at the first glance that I had seen him before, but when, -and under what circumstances, I could not recall to my recollection. -After some conversation, as to what had been his former occupation, &c., -he remarked, addressing himself to me, "I think, _Caballero_, that this -is not the first time we have met--many years have elapsed since--many -(to me) most eventful years, and they have wrought great changes in my -appearance. And, indeed, some little difference is perceptible also in -yours, for you were a mere boy then; but, still, time has not laid so -heavy a hand on you as on the worn-out person of him who stands before -you, and in whom you will, doubtless, have difficulty in recognizing the -reckless _Blas Maldonado_!" - -Time had, indeed, effected great changes in him, morally as well as -physically; for not only had the powerful, well-built man, dwindled into -a tottering, emaciated driveller, but the daring, impious bandit, had -become a weak and superstitious dotard. - -My curiosity strongly piqued to learn how changes so wonderful had been -brought about, we immediately engaged the _Tio_ to attend upon us; and, -during the few days circumstances compelled us to remain at Cordoba, I -elicited from him the following account of the events which had -chequered his extraordinary career since we had before met. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -HISTORY OF BLAS EL GUERRILLERO--_continued._ - - "_La rueda de la fortuna anda mas lista que una rueda de molino, y - que los que ayer estaban en pinganitos, hoy estan por el - suelo._"[145]-- - DON QUIJOTE. - - -It was at Castro el Rio that we last met Don Carlos; it is now eleven -years since,--rather more, but still I have a perfect recollection of -it. My memory, indeed, is the only thing that has served me well through -life. Friends have abandoned--riches corrupted--success has -hardened--ambition disappointed me; and now, as you see, my very limbs -are failing me, but memory--excepting for one short period, when my -brain was affected--has never abandoned me. I cannot flee from it--it -pursues me incessantly: it is as impossible to get rid of, as of one's -shadow in the sun's rays, and seems indeed, like it, to become more -perfect, as I too proceed downward in my rapidly revolving course. - -Alas! it often brings to mind the words of my good father, addressed, -whilst I was yet a child, to my too-indulgent mother:--"If we consult -the happiness of our son, we must not bring him up above the condition -to which it has pleased Providence to call him." It was my unhappy lot, -however, to become an _educated pauper_. I grew up discontented, and -became a profligate: I coveted riches, to feed my unnatural cravings, -and became criminal: I scoffed at religion, and came to ridicule the -idea of a future state of rewards and punishments. And as I thus brought -myself to believe that I was not an accountable creature, nothing -thenceforth restrained me from committing any act which gratified my -passions. What is man, I argued, that I should not despoil him, if he -possess that which I covet? What should deter me from taking his life, -if he stand between me and that which I desire? _Crime_ is a mere -word,--a term for any act which certain _men_, for their mutual -advantage, have agreed shall meet with punishment. But what right have -those men to say, this is just, and that is unlawful? - -Such were my feelings at the time I met and related to you the -adventures of my early life; adventures of which I was then not a -little proud, though, nevertheless, I slurred over some little matters -that I thought would not raise me in your opinion. Well was it for me -that I was not cut off in the midst of my iniquitous career, but have, -on the contrary, been allowed time, by penance and prayer, to make what -atonement is in my power for my former sinful life. - -My journey to Castro had been undertaken at the desire of the political -chief of ----, for the purpose of watching the proceedings of the Royal -Regiment of Carbineers, which, as you may remember, was at that time -quartered there. - -I soon, under pretence of being a stanch royalist, wormed myself into -the confidence of the officers, and learnt that they were in -communication with the King's Guards at Madrid, and were plotting a -counter-revolution, to reestablish Ferdinand on a despotic throne. The -advice I gave them, and the information I furnished the government, led -to the unconnected and premature developement of their treason, and to -the vigorous steps which were taken by the executive to meet and put it -down. - -These, however, are matters of history, on which it is unnecessary to -dwell; suffice it, therefore, to say, that my good services on the -occasion were rewarded by promotion to a more lucrative _corregimiento_. -I did not long enjoy this new post, for, on the French columns crossing -the Pyrenees the following spring, I threw up my civil employment, and, -collecting a small band of _guerrillas_, flew to the defence of my -country; joining the traitor Ballasteros, then entrusted with the -command of the army of the south. - -The deplorable events which followed deprived me of a home; but, leaving -my wife and infant son (the only child, of three, whom it had pleased -Providence to spare us) at the secluded little town of Canete la Real, -perched high up in the Sierra de Terril, I wandered about the country -with a few adherents, seeking opportunities of harassing the French -during their operations before Cadiz. - -They afforded us no opportunities, however, of attacking their convoys -with any chance of success, and my followers could not be brought to -engage in any daring enterprise without the prospect of booty. The -feeling of patriotism appeared, indeed, to be extinct in the breasts of -Spaniards, and after a few weeks my band, which was nowhere well -received, having been induced to commit excesses in some of the villages -situated in the open country about Arcos, several parties of royalist -volunteers were formed to proceed in quest of us; and so disheartened -were my followers, that I shortly found my band reduced to a dozen -desperadoes, who, like myself, had no hopes of obtaining pardon. - -We betook ourselves, therefore, to the innermost recesses of the Ronda -mountains, moving constantly from place to place, as well to harass our -pursuers, as to avoid being surrounded by them; and such is the -intricacy of the country, and so numerous are the rocky fastnesses of -the smugglers (from whom we were always sure of a good reception), that -we readily baffled all pursuit, and exhausted the patience of our -enemies; and, at length, seizing a favourable opportunity of inflicting -a severe loss upon one of their parties, the patriotic zeal of these -gentry so completely evaporated, that we were left in the undisturbed -command of the Serrania. - -All hope of being serviceable to our country at an end, we were -compelled, as a last resource, to adopt the only calling to which we -were suited, viz., that of highway robbers; and for several months every -road between Gibraltar and Malaga, and the inland towns, was, in turn, -subject to our predaceous visits. - -On one occasion a dignitary of the church, whose name and particular -station it would not be prudent of me to mention, fell into our hands. -His attendants, who were of a militant order, defended their master with -great obstinacy. They were eventually overpowered, however, but several -of my men having been badly wounded in the scuffle, were so -exasperated, that they determined to shoot all those who had fallen into -our hands, as well as the ---- himself; who, though he had not taken an -active part in the combat, had made no attempt to restrain his -pugnacious adherents. - -As soon as our prisoners had been secured, therefore, the portly -ecclesiastic was directed to descend from his sleek mule, deliver up his -money, and prepare for death. He inveighed in eloquent terms at our -barbarity, pointed out to us the iniquity of our proceedings, the -probability of a speedy punishment overtaking us in this life, and the -certainty of having to endure everlasting torments in that which is to -come. But it was to no purpose; indeed, it only tempted my miscreants to -prolong his misery; and, having tied him to a tree, they insisted upon -his blessing them all round, ere they proceeded to shoot him. - -"My children," said the worthy ----, "my blessing, from the tone in which -you ask it, would serve you little. My life is in the hands of my Maker, -not in your's; and if it be His pleasure to make you the instruments of -his divine will, so be it. I am prepared; death has no terrors for me; -and may you obtain _His_ forgiveness for the sin you are about to -commit, as readily as I grant you _mine_. Now, I am ready;" and, looking -upwards to the seat of all power and grace, he paid no further -attention to their scoffing. - -"Now Senor Bias," said one of my men, "since he will give us no more -sport, give the word, and let us finish his business." - -"Hold!" exclaimed one of the ----'s suite, addressing me, "Is your name -Blas Maldonado?" - -"It is: wherefore?" - -"Because, if such be the case, in his Excellency's _portefuille_ you -will find a letter addressed to you." - -I forthwith proceeded to examine its contents, and, true enough, found a -letter bearing my address. It was from my old friend _Jacobo_, -requesting, should the ---- fall into my hands, that I would suffer him -to pass without molestation, in return for services conferred on him, -which would be explained at our next meeting.[146] - -_Jacobo_, though we had not met for many months, I knew was in that part -of the country, following the honest calling of a _Contrabandista_, and -I felt, in honour, bound to grant this request of my old friend and ever -faithful lieutenant. My followers, however, objected strongly to spare -either the ----, or his attendants, and a violent altercation ensued; -for, I declared that my life must be taken ere that of any one of our -prisoners. - -Four only of the band sided with me, and we had already assumed a -hostile attitude, when the ---- called earnestly upon me to desist. - -"Peril not your sinful souls!" he exclaimed, "by hurrying each other, -unrepented of your manifold sins, into the presence of an offended -Maker.--Take our gold--take every thing we possess; and if those -misguided men cannot be satisfied without blood, let mine flow to save -the lives of these, my followers, who have stronger ties than I to bind -them to this world." - -My hot temper, little used to contradiction, would listen, however, to -no terms; my word was pledged that the ---- and his attendants should go -free, and my word was never given in vain. I persisted, therefore, in -declaring that those must pass over my body who would touch a hair of -the ----'s head, or take a m_aravedi_ from his purse.... If he chose to -make them a present after he had been released, he was his own master to -do so. - -This delicate hint was eagerly seized by the worthy dignitary's -attendants, and a large sum of money was distributed amongst the gang, -in which I declined sharing. The ----, meanwhile, remounted his mule, -and, calling me to his side, placed a valuable ring upon my finger. "I -am indebted to you for my life, Blas Maldonado," he said, with the most -lively emotion; "but that is little; I owe to you--what I value -infinitely more--the safety of these faithful attendants, whose -attachment had led them, like Simon Peter, to defend their Pastor. Such -debts cannot be cancelled by any gift I can bestow, and it is not with -that view I offer you this bauble, but a day may come when you may need -an intercessor--if so, return this ring to me by some faithful member of -our holy church, and let me know how I can serve you: or--which is -probable, considering my age and infirmities--should I, ere that comes -to pass, have been called from this world to give an account of my -stewardship; then, fear not to lay it at the foot of Fernando's throne, -and, in the name of its donor, beg for mercy. I trust you may not have -occasion to require its services, for my prayers shall not be wanting -for your conversion from your present evil ways--my blessing be upon -you--farewell." - -How powerful is the influence of religion! Whilst listening to the -worthy ----'s words, my head, which since the days of my childhood no -act of devotion had ever led me to uncover, was bared as if by instinct; -and, to receive the blessing he had called down upon me, I humbled -myself to the earth! - -Although those of the band who had so vehemently opposed sparing -the ----'s life had finally been satisfied with the _donation_ bestowed -upon them, yet their disobedience made me determine on ejecting them -from my band, and accordingly, accompanied only by my four supporters in -the late dispute, I proceeded to my old rendezvous, Montejaque, hoping -to pick up some recruits. I purposed, also, availing myself of the first -favourable opportunity to remove my wife and child to that place, it -being more conveniently situated, and offering greater security than -even Canete la Real. - -We had been there but a few days, when I received a letter without a -signature, but in the well-known characters of my bosom friend, Miguel -Clavijo, under whose protection I had placed my wife and child, giving -warning of impending danger to them. There was yet time to avert it, my -correspondent concluded, but in twenty-four hours from the date of this -communication, their fate would probably be sealed. - -It was within two hours of sunset when I received this letter, and eight -hours had already elapsed since it had been written. Not a moment, -therefore, was to be lost. I procured a pillion, and, placing it on an -active horse, set off with all possible haste for Canete, keeping along -the course of the river Ariate to avoid the town of Ronda, and -traversing at full speed the village bearing the name of the stream, in -order to escape recognition. - -I reached the rounded summit of the chain of hills which forms the -northern boundary of the cultivated valley of Ronda, just as the sun was -sinking behind the western mountains; and, checking my horse to give him -a few moments' breath ere commencing the rugged descent on the opposite -side, I turned round to see if all were quiet in the wide-spread plain I -had just traversed, and that no one was following my traces. At this -moment the last ray of the glorious luminary lit upon the distant town -of Grazalema. The remarkable coincidence of the warning of treason I had -received there on this very day, twelve years before, came vividly to -mind, and with it the recollection of my extraordinary escape from the -snare laid for me--the debt of gratitude due to her who had risked her -life, and sacrificed her honour to save me--the cruelty with which my -preserver had been treated. Poor abandoned Paca! From the moment of our -angry separation, never had I once taken the trouble of enquiring what -had been her fate. Scarcely, indeed, had I ever bestowed a thought upon -her. - -I resumed my way down the rough descent, pondering, for the first time -in my life, on the ingratitude I had been guilty of, and had reached -some high cliffs that border the road beneath the village of La Cuera -del Becerro, when a pistol was discharged within a few yards of me, and, -looking up, I saw a witchlike figure standing on the edge of the -precipice overhanging the path--It was Paca! - -Had my eyes wished to deceive me, she would not have allowed them, for, -with a wild, demonaical laugh, she screamed out "_Adelante, Adelante, -embustero desalmado!_[147]--You will yet be in time to dig the grave for -your child, though too late to snatch your _wife_ from the arms of her -paramour. Forward, forward; recollect the old saying, '_no hay boda, sin -tornaboda_;'[148] you may have forgotten Paca of _Benaocaz_, but I shall -never forget Blas Maldonado. The creditor has ever a better memory than -the debtor. I have paid myself now, however--ride on, and see the -receipt I have left for you at Canete--ha, ha, ha!" - -There was something perfectly fiendish in her laughter. A horrible -presentiment possessed me.--With a hand tremulous with passion, I drew -forth a pistol and fired. Paca staggered, and fell backwards; but, not -waiting to see if she were killed, I put spurs to my horse, and hurried -forward to Canete. - -I rode straight to the house where I had left my wife, but it was -uninhabited. I turned from it with a shudder, and proceeded to the -abode of my faithful friend Clavijo, who was confined to his bed with -ague. He received me with a face foreboding evil. - -"Where is my wife?" I hastily demanded--"my child, where is he?" - -"Alas!" he replied, "why came you not earlier?" - -"Earlier! how could that be? It is but twelve hours since your summons -was penned! Tell me, I implore you--what horrible misfortune has -befallen?" - -"But twelve hours, say you?" exclaimed Clavijo; "It is now _three days_ -since I intrusted my letter to Paca to convey to you! she it was who -informed me of the plot to carry off your wife, (which has been but too -truly effected,) and offered to be herself the bearer of my letter to -you at Montejaque, where she assured me you were. I have not seen her -since, and fancied she had not succeeded in finding you." - -I stood stupified whilst listening to this explanation--for such it was -to me; the truth, the horrible truth, at once flashing upon me--and -then, without waiting to obtain further information from the bed-ridden -Miguel, hastened to the late residence of my wife, which one of his -domestics pointed out to me. In few words, I explained to its owner the -object of my visit, begging for information concerning my child. "This -will explain all, Senor Blas," she replied, taking a letter from a -cupboard, and placing it in my hands; "would to God it had been in my -power to prevent what has happened." - -The letter was in my wife's hand-writing, I tore it open, and to my -astonishment read as follows. - -"Monster of iniquity! The veil that has but too long concealed thy -unequalled crimes from the eyes of a confiding woman, has been rudely -torn aside. Murderer of my brother! Apostate! Traitor! Adulterer! -receive at my hands the first stroke of the Almighty's anger. The -illegitimate offspring of our intercourse lies a mangled corpse upon our -adulterous bed! Yes, unparalleled villain; my hand, like thine own, is -stained with the blood of my child--_our_ child. But on thy head rests -the sin. In a moment of delirium, produced by the sight of my husband, -and the knowledge of thy atrocious crimes, the horrid deed was -committed. I leave thee to the pangs of remorse. I cannot curse thee. -Even with the bleached corpse of my poor boy before me, I cannot bring -myself to call down a heavy punishment upon thee. We shall never meet -again; but fly instantly and save thyself if possible; and may the -Almighty Being, whose every command thou hast violated, extend the term -of thy life for repentance; and may a blessed Saviour and the holy -saints, whose mediation thou hast ever derided, intercede for the -salvation of thy sinful soul." - -My first feeling on reading this epistle was incredulity! _I_, who had -stopped at no crime to gratify any evil passion; even I could not -persuade myself that it was not a forgery, nor believe that one so -gentle, so affectionate, as Engracia, could be guilty of so diabolical -an act. I took up a lamp and walked composedly to the adjoining chamber, -to satisfy my doubts. With a steady hand I drew aside the curtain of the -bed--nothing was visible. A thrill of delight ran through my veins. I -tore off the counterpane, and--horrible revulsion of -feeling!--discovered my boy, my darling boy, with anguish depicted in -every feature, and every muscle contracted with excessive suffering; a -cold--black--fetid--putrid corpse! - -Until that moment I had not known the full extent to which the chords of -the human heart are capable of being stretched. All my love of life had -centred in that child. Each of his infantile endearments came fresh upon -my memory. The pangs of jealousy and hate, too, had never before been so -acutely felt; and, lastly, I thought of my Fernando's dying malediction! -It seemed as if a poisoned dart had pierced to the very innermost recess -of the heart, and that my envenomed blood waited but its extraction, to -gush forth in one irrepressible flood. - -I stood speechless--awe-struck--motionless; but not yet humbled. I -thought of Paca, and a curse rose to my throat; but ere I had time to -give it utterance, a noise, as of many persons assembled at the door of -the house, attracted my attention, and I heard an unknown voice say, -"This, _Tio_, you are sure is the house? Then in with you, comrades, -without ceremony, and bring out every soul you may find there, dead or -alive." - -In another moment the door was broken open and a party of armed men -rushed in. My precaution of extinguishing the lamp was vain, as several -of them bore blazing torches. I rushed to a back window of the inner -apartment, and drew forth a pistol to keep them at bay whilst I effected -my escape by it. It had the desired effect. Not one of the dastard crew -would approach to lay his hand upon me. The shutter was already thrown -open; the strength of desperation had enabled me to tear down one of the -iron bars of the _reja_; and one foot rested on the window-sill; when, -rushing past the soldiers, a ghost-like female figure, whose face was -bound up in a cloth clotted with gore, seized me in her convulsive -grasp, and in a half-articulate scream cried, "Wretch! you shall not so -escape me!"--It was Paca! I tried in vain to shake her off; she clung to -me with the pertinacity of a vampire, I placed the muzzle of my pistol -to her temple, and pulled the trigger; but, in my hurry, I had drawn -that which I had already fired at her. I attempted to snatch another -from my belt, but the soldiers taking courage rushed forward and -overpowered me, just as Paca, from whose mouth I now perceived blood was -rapidly issuing, fell exhausted upon the floor. - -The commander of the party was now called in, who gave directions for a -priest and a surgeon to be instantly sent for, and that I should be -bound hand and foot with cords. They took the bedding from under the -corpse of my son to form a rest for Paca, whose life seemed ebbing -rapidly. - -In a few minutes the surgeon arrived, and shortly after a tinkling bell -announced the approach of the Host. The doctor having examined Paca's -wounds, pronounced them to have been inflicted by the discharge of some -weapon loaded with slugs, one of which had fractured her jaw-bone, -whilst another had inflicted a wound that occasioned an inward flow of -blood which threatened immediate dissolution, and consequently the -services of the church were more likely to be beneficial than his own. -The priest then approached, and offered the last and cheering -consolation that our holy religion offers to a dying penitent. - -Paca opened her now lustreless eyes, and with a motion of impatience, -putting aside the proffered cup, pointed to me. "There is my murderer," -she muttered in broken accents; "Villain! monster! my vengeance is at -length complete. I leave you in the hands of justice, and die ... -happy." An agonized writhe belied her assertion. She never spoke after, -but continued groaning whilst the worthy priest attempted to call her -attention to her approaching end. - -I have not much more to add to my history. It appeared, by what I learnt -afterwards, that Beltran had most miraculously escaped death, when -thrown from the rock of Montejaque, and having been discovered by some -French soldiers who made an attack upon the place a few days afterwards, -was conveyed to Ronda, when the loss of his ears led to his being -recognised by the French governor, who had, in the meanwhile, received -my _present_, and discovered the trick I had played him. - -Beltran's tale thus proved to have been the true one, he was -well-treated, and sent with a party of prisoners to France, where he -remained until the conclusion of the war. He was then on his way back to -his native country, in company with several other Spaniards, when he was -arrested as being an accomplice, "_sans premeditation_," in a robbery, -attended with loss of life, and was sentenced to ten years' -imprisonment; but, before this term was fully completed, he obtained -his release, returned to Spain, and proceeding immediately to his native -province, there first learnt that Engracia had become my wife. - -I think, by the way, that in the former part of my narrative I omitted -to mention--for fully persuaded as I _then_ was of Beltran's death, it -was a matter of no moment--that previous to Engracia's becoming my wife, -she informed me of her having, at the urgent instances of her brother -Melchor, consented to a private marriage with my rival; and from this -circumstance she had expressed the greatest anxiety to ascertain his -fate with certainty, and had delayed for so long a period bestowing her -hand upon me. - -This marriage with Beltran had taken place at Gaucin within an hour of -my departure from that town, after making the arrangements for our -combined attack on Ronda; and had been strongly advocated by Melchor, -from an apprehension that, should any thing happen to him in the -approaching conflict, his elder brother, Alonzo, who was kept in perfect -ignorance of this proceeding, would abandon his friend Beltran, and -insist on their sister's marrying me, whom he (Melchor) detested. - -I, however, as you are aware, had every reason to believe that Beltran -had been killed by his fall from the rock of Montejaque; and therefore, -on eventually eliciting from Engracia the reason of her reluctance to -marry me, I had no scruple in declaring that Beltran's dead body had -been seen rolling down the shallow pebbly bed of the Guadiaro, after our -action with the French. The crime I had led her to commit was -consequently unintentional. Would I could as easily acquit myself of -another her letter accused me of, namely, that of being the murderer of -her brother: for, through my machinations was his death brought about. - -Whilst the crop-eared traitor, Beltran, (the _Tio's_ revengeful feelings -were not so entirely allayed as to prevent his bestowing an occasional -term of reproach on those who had thwarted his prosperous career of -iniquity) was skulking about the mountains, endeavouring to obtain -tidings of his re-married wife, chance threw him in the way of Paca, -engaged in a similar pursuit, but with a very different purpose. - -This wretched woman had, for many years after our separation, been the -inmate of a mad-house; but, at length, her keepers finding that, -excepting on the subject of her supposed wrongs, she was perfectly -tractable, became careless of watching her, and she effected her escape. - -The sole object of this vindictive creature's life appears now to have -been to wreak vengeance upon me. But not satisfied with the mere death -of her victim, she sought first to torture him with worldly pangs; and -informed that Engracia lived, and had given birth to a son, whom I loved -with a more fervent affection than even the mother, she determined -_they_ should first be sacrificed to her revenge. - -On discovering Beltran alive, however, a scheme yet more hellishly -devised entered her imagination; in the execution of which he became a -willing agent, though in some degree her dupe. - -Well acquainted with all my haunts, she soon got upon my track; and that -discovered, had little difficulty in finding out the hiding-place of -Engracia. Making a shrewd guess at the person under whose protection I -had placed my wife and child, she forthwith presented herself to Don -Miguel, and informed him that a plot was laid, and on the eve of -execution, to carry them both off; adding, that it might yet be -frustrated if I could but arrive at Canete within twenty-four -hours--that she knew where I then was, and would undertake to have any -warning conveyed to me which his prudence might suggest--that her -messenger was sure, but still the utmost caution, as well as despatch, -was necessary. - -Miguel, quite taken by surprise, and unable from illness to leave his -bed, wrote the short note which has already been given; and this point -gained, Paca proceeded to the nearest town to give information to the -authorities that the bandit Blas, whom they were seeking in every -direction, was to be at Canete la Real on a certain night; and proposed, -if a detachment of troops was sent quietly to the neighbouring village -of El Becerro, that she would repair thither at the proper time, and -conduct the soldiers to the traitor's very lair. - -This proposal was readily acceded to, and Paca then repaired to Canete, -to tell Miguel not to be uneasy as to the result of his message to me, -as, since sending it, she had ascertained on good authority that -something had occurred to postpone the elopement of Engracia for a day -or two. - -Bending her steps thence to where Beltran was anxiously awaiting her -return, she told him that after much difficulty she had discovered -Engracia was at Canete; he had therefore but to proceed there after -dark, provided with the means of carrying her off. But this, she -informed him, must be done with the utmost celerity and circumspection, -as the inhabitants of the place were so desperate a set, and so attached -to me, that, if they got the slightest inkling of what was going -forward, they certainly would handle him very roughly; and the -authorities, unless backed by a body of troops, would be afraid to -interfere in his behalf. - -If, however, she pursued, he preferred waiting until an escort could be -procured, that he might avoid all personal risk--but delays were -dangerous, for frequently - - _"De la mano a la boca_ - _se cae la sopa._"[149] - -The law, too, was uncertain.--He thought so also, and they proceeded -together to Canete. - -Beltran, imagining that Paca had informed Engracia of his being alive, -conceived that no intimation of his coming was requisite; but such was -not the case, and the shock given by his unexpected visit caused the -aberration of mind which led the hapless Engracia to commit the horrid -crime of infanticide; and, in the state of inanition that followed, she -was carried out of the town. - -The letter to me was written afterwards, and delivered to the old woman -of the house by Paca, the last act of whose fiendish plot now commenced. - -Altering the date of Miguel's letter, so as to make it correspond with -the time arranged for the arrival of the troops at _La Cueva del -Becerro_, she forwarded it to me at Montejaque--what followed has -already been stated. - -These details became known on my trial, which took place shortly -afterwards. I was condemned to suffer death by the _garrote_. The day -was fixed; I sent for a priest, and entrusting to him the ring given me -by the ----, begged he would forward it without delay to Madrid. - -This was done, but day after day passed without bringing any answer to -my appeal. At first I had been so sanguine as to the result, that I was -affected but little at my position, for I knew how easily a pardon is -obtained in Spain, when application is made in the proper quarter; but, -as the fatal time approached, the darkest despair took possession of my -soul. - -I cannot indeed convey to you, Don Carlos, an adequate idea of the -horrible torments I endured during the last few days preceding that -fixed for my execution. The pious father Ignacio--he has since (sainted -soul!) been taken from this earth, and is now, I trust, my intercessor -in heaven--was unremitting in his endeavours to bring me to repentance; -but Satan was yet strong within me, and my heart remained hardened. The -pardon came not, and I exclaimed against the justness of the Most High: -I, whom no considerations of justice had influenced in any one action of -my life--who had recklessly transgressed each of His commandments! - -"We must not ask for _justice_ at the hands of the Almighty," urged -Ignacio; "We are all born in sin, in sin we all live; _mercy_ is what we -must pray for." - -"Mercy!" I exclaimed; "_Why_ was I born in sin? Why led to commit crime? -Why...." - -"Your unbridled passions led you to transgress the laws of your -Creator," replied Ignacio; "be thankful that you were not cut short in -your mad career, and that time has been allowed you for repentance." - -"Repent!--I cannot--I have ever denied, I cannot now believe in the -existence of a Maker." - -"Unhappy man!" ejaculated the worthy priest; "unhappy, impious, -inconsistent man! You deny the existence of the Being against whose -justice your voice was raised e'en now in reproaches! Do you not look -forward to behold again to-morrow the bright luminary round which this -atom of a world revolves? Look on that pale moon, which perhaps you now -see rising for the last time--Observe that fiery meteor which has this -moment dashed through the wondrous, boundless firmament; and ask -yourself if this admirable system can be the effect of accident? Do the -trees yearly yield us their fruits by chance? Is the punctual return of -the seasons a mere casualty? If so, how is it that this accidental -atom--this globe we inhabit, has so long held together _without_ -accident? Has any work of man, however cunningly devised, in like manner -withstood the effects of time? Is not the protecting hand of the Deity -clearly perceptible in the unvarying continuance of these phenomena? - -"My son, had you studied the Holy Scriptures more, and the philosophy of -Voltaire and other infidels less, you would not have been brought to -this strait; neither would you have shocked my ears with a confession, -which, a few years since, would have consigned you to the dungeons of -the Inquisition. Repent! unhappy man, repent! and save your soul--there -is still time. Nay, an omnipotent Maker may even yet think fit to -prolong your life here below, for the perfection of this good work, if -you will but pray to him in all sincerity." - -The pious father saw that I was touched, and, pouring in promises of -future happiness, brought me to reflect. I begged him to be with me -early on the following morning. He came; I had passed the night in -prayer; and now unburdened my mind, by making to him a full confession -of my sins. - -Ignacio remained comforting me, until the hour of the arrival of the -post, when he repaired, as usual, to the _Corregidor_, to ascertain -whether any pardon had reached him. He returned not, however. Eleven -o'clock was the hour fixed for my execution; it came, but still Ignacio -did not appear. Hours passed away, and not a soul visited me; the sun -again sank below the horizon, and I yet lived. - -It was evident--so, at least, I thought--that a pardon had arrived, and -my spirits rose accordingly. At length, towards nightfall, Ignacio -entered my cell. "Blas," he said, "though it would appear there is no -longer a chance of your receiving a pardon, yet your life has been -miraculously spared this day, to give you time for repentance. I trust -you have turned it to good account." - -"How!" I exclaimed, "have I not been pardoned? What, then, has -occasioned this delay?" - -"You owe your life," he replied, "to a rumour, that a band of robbers -had appeared in the vicinity--some of your old friends, it was -thought--which caused all the troops to be sent out in pursuit. They -have but now returned, and to-morrow you will be executed." - -A pang of withering disappointment ran through me, for I had confidently -imagined that the delay had been the consequence of the arrival of a -pardon, and Satan once more obtained dominion over me. - -Ignacio read in my overcast countenance the change his information had -wrought in my feelings. "Your repentance is not sincere, my son," he -observed. "Alas! when death is in sight, how fondly do we cling to this -earth. And yet you have braved death in the field a thousand times!" - -"Father," I replied, "it is not death I fear--it is the disgrace of a -public execution." - -"What absurd sophistry is this?" said he. "Can one, who but yesterday -denied the existence of a future state, care for one moment _how_ he -quits this world, or regard the opinion of those he leaves behind in -it?--as well might he be fearful of losing the good opinion of a herd of -swine. Away with such fine-spun subtilties--it is the prospect of -meeting your Maker face to face that makes you quail. You are yet but -ill prepared, I see. Oh! may He yet mercifully extend your life, if but -a short span." - -The morrow came, but the pious Ignacio's prayer remained apparently -unheard. He repaired to my call soon after the arrival of the post, to -exhort and prepare me. Alas! I was as much in want of his assistance as -ever, for I had all along clung to the hope of obtaining a pardon -through the influence of the ----, and was more inclined to rail than to -pray. - -A party of soldiers at length arrived, and I was led off in chains to -the place of execution. A vast crowd was assembled from all the -neighbouring towns to witness my punishment. Ignacio addressed the -multitude on our way, saying, I was a repentant sinner, and implored the -prayers of all good Christians. For myself I said not a word, and the -crowd gave no signs of either gratification or commiseration. I mounted -the scaffold, the fatal instrument was placed round my throat, a curse -was yet on my lips, when a distant shout attracted the Father's -attention. Laying a hand upon the arm of the executioner to stay his -proceedings, he watched with eager eyes the signs of some one who was -approaching at a rapid pace, holding a paper high in the air. The paper -was handed to Ignacio by the breathless messenger. "It is a pardon," he -exclaimed; "your life is miraculously spared--it has been sent express -from the Escurial! Return your thanks, to Him, who has been pleased thus -to extend his mercy towards you." - -I had already sunk on my knees--I prayed earnestly for the first time in -my life. - -Marvellously, indeed, had my life been preserved. But for the rumoured -appearance of the band of robbers, I should have suffered death the day -before; again, this day, but for Ignacio's presence, the pardon would -have arrived too late. - -I was immediately released, but a fever, caused, probably, by my -previously excited feelings, confined me to my bed for many weeks. I -became delirious, and my life was despaired of. Ignacio tended me like a -brother. A second time he saved my life; but, alas! he himself -contracted the contagious disorder, and fell a victim to his warm and -disinterested friendship. - -I expended all I was worth in masses for his soul, and was once more -thrown upon the world to seek a livelihood. - -I thought of applying to the ---- to procure me some employment, but -learnt that he too had closed his mortal career. The fever had given -such a shock to my constitution, that old age, I may say, came suddenly -upon me, and to gain a livelihood by hard labour was out of the -question. I had no relations; my friends were all new; so that I had no -claims on any one: my present occupation presented itself, as the only -one I was fit for; and, thank God, it enables me to earn my bread -without begging, and even to lay by a little store for pious -purposes:--for much of my time is devoted to the performance of penances -and austerities, to expiate the sins of my past life. Thrice, on my -knees, have I ascended to the _Ermita_ you see there peeping through the -clouds gathered round the peaks of the Sierra Morena. Once, too, have I -walked barefoot to prostrate myself before the _Santa faz_[150] of Jaen; -and this winter (God willing!) I purpose visiting the most holy shrine -of _Sant' Iago de Compostela_. - -It is a long journey, and will, probably, be my last pilgrimage, for I -feel myself sinking fast. - -You have now had the history of my whole life, Don Carlos--I wish it -could be published. It might, probably, warn my fellow-creatures to rest -contented with the lot to which it has pleased God to call them; and, if -so, I may have lived to some purpose. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - UNFORESEEN DIFFICULTIES IN PROCEEDING TO MADRID--DEATH OF KING - FERDINAND--CHANGE IN OUR PLANS--ROAD TO - ANDUJAR--ALCOLEA--MONTORO--PORCUNA--ANDUJAR--ARJONA--TORRE - XIMENO--DIFFICULTY OF GAINING ADMISSION--SUCCESS OF A - STRATAGEM--CONSTERNATION OF THE AUTHORITIES--SPANISH ADHERENCE TO - FORMS--CONTRASTS--JAEN--DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE, CITY, AND - CATHEDRAL--LA SANTA FAZ--ROAD TO GRANADA--OUR KNIGHTLY - ATTENDANT--PARADOR DE SAN RAFAEL--HOSPITABLE FARMER--ASTONISHMENT - OF THE NATIVES--GRANADA--EL SOTO DE ROMA--LOJA--VENTA DE - DORNEJO--COLMENAR--FINE SCENERY--ROAD FROM MALAGA TO ANTEQUERA, AND - DESCRIPTION OF THAT CITY. - - -I found Cordoba the same dull, sultry, loyal city as at the period of my -former visit; after devoting a day, therefore, to the incomparable -_Mezquita_, we repaired to the police office to redeem our passports, -and have them _vise_ for Madrid, purposing to proceed to the capital by -_Diligence_. We there learnt, however, that our route from Gibraltar, -having passed _near_ the district wherein the cholera had appeared, the -public safety demanded that our journey should be continued on -horseback, and, moreover, that each day's ride should not exceed eight -leagues! - -The prospect of a fortnight's baking on the parched plains of La Mancha -and Castile, which this preposterous precaution held out, was, of -itself, enough to make any one _crusty_; but the additional vexation of -finding that all our precautions had been unavailing, all our -information erroneous, made us return to the _posada_, thoroughly out of -humour with _Las Cosas de Espana_. Our landlord comforted us, however, -by engaging--if we would but wait patiently for a few days, and leave -the business entirely in his hands--to get matters arranged so that we -might yet proceed on to Madrid by the diligence; and, knowing the wheels -within wheels by which Spanish affairs of state are put in motion, we -willingly came to this compromise, and remained quietly paying him for -our breakfasts and dinners during the best part of a week, receiving -each day renewed assurances that every thing was proceeding -"_corriente_." - -The second day after our arrival at Cordoba, the inhabitants were moved -to an unusual degree of excitement, in consequence of an _estafette_ -having passed through the city during the night, bearing despatches from -Madrid to the Captain General of the Province, and rumours were afloat -that the king was so seriously ill as to occasion great fears for his -life; and, on the following day, public anxiety was yet further excited -by a report that the Captain General had passed through Cordoba on his -way to the capital; leading to the general belief that Ferdinand was -actually dead. - -In the evening our host came to us with a very long face, and informed -us, confidentially, that such was the case, though, for political -reasons, it had been deemed prudent not to make the melancholy news -public; adding, that, in consequence of this unforeseen and unfortunate -event, he regretted to say the authorities had been seized with such a -panic, that he had altogether failed in his endeavour to have the stain -effaced from our bill of health. Nevertheless, he said, he hoped yet to -be able to arrange matters so as to ensure our being received into the -diligence, _without any questions being asked_ at Andujar, if we would -but remain quietly where we were for a few days longer, and then proceed -to that place on horseback. - -The news received from Madrid had, however, decided us to give up the -plan of continuing our journey thither. I knew enough of Spain to -foresee what would be the result of all the intrigues which had been -carried on behind the curtains of the imbecile Ferdinand's death-bed. - -"You are quite right, Senor," said Blas, to whom I made known our change -of plans, "we shall now have a disputed succession, for, be assured, Don -Carlos is not the man to forego his just rights without a -struggle.--Alas! this only was wanting to fill my unhappy country's cup -of misery to overflowing." - -Although thus unwillingly forced to abandon the project of crossing the -Sierra Morena, we determined, whilst the country yet remained quiet, to -extend our tour further to the eastward, and, by proceeding along the -_arrecife_ to Madrid as far as Andujar, gain the road which leads from -thence to Jaen; a city, which the want of practicable roads leading from -it to the south has, until late years (during which that deficiency has -been remedied), been very rarely visited by travellers. - -Recommending Senor Blas to postpone his projected barefoot pilgrimage -into Gallicia, until the rainy season had set in, and made the roads -soft, we departed from Cordoba by the great post route to the capital, -which, as far as Alcolea, is conducted along the right bank of the -Guadalquivir, and is a fine, broad, and well-kept gravel road. - -Alcolea is seven miles from Cordoba. It is a small village of but twenty -or thirty houses, and, in the opinion of Florez, occupies the site of -the ancient town of Arva. The _arrecife_ here crosses to the left bank -of the river by a handsome marble bridge, of eighteen arches, built in -1788-92. The passage of this bridge was obstinately contested by the -Spaniards, in the campaign of 1808, but a party of the French, which -had crossed the river at Montoro, falling upon its defenders in flank, -forced them to retreat. - -From hence to Carpio is ten miles. The country is undulated, and the -road--along which there is not a single village, and scarcely half a -dozen houses--keeps within sight of the Guadalquivir the whole way, -affording many pleasing views of the winding stream and its overhanging -woods and olive groves. - -The town of Carpio is left about a quarter of a mile off, on the right. -It is situated on a hill, and by some is supposed to be the ancient city -of Corbulo. Pliny, however, distinctly says that place was _below_ -Cordoba, and Florez fixes it in the vicinity of Palma. - -From Carpio to Aldea del Rio is twelve miles, the country continuing -much the same as heretofore. At three miles, the road reaches the small -town of Pedro Abad (or Perabad) in the vicinity of which is a -_despoblado_,[151] where various medals and vestiges have been found -that determine it to be the site of Sacili, mentioned by Pliny. - -Proceeding onwards, the town of Bujalance may occasionally be seen on -the right, distant about a league and a half from the Guadalquivir; and -at seven miles from Carpio, we passed Montoro, a large town situated on -the margin of the river, and about three quarters of a mile to the left -of the _arrecife_. This town has been determined by antiquaries to be -Ripepora. - -The country about Aldea del Rio is rather pretty, and the place has a -thriving look compared with the miserable towns we had lately seen; its -population is about 1,800 souls. We halted here for the night, and found -the _posada_ most wretched. - -At a distance of nine (geographic) miles from Aldea del Rio, in a -south-east direction, is the town of Porcuna; its situation, Florez -justly observes, agreeing so well with that of Obulco, as given both by -Strabo[152] and Pliny,[153] as to leave no doubt of their identity. -Inscriptions, monuments, coins, &c., which have been found there, quite -confirm this opinion, and an important point is thus gained in tracing -the operations of Caesar in his last campaign against the sons of Pompey; -since Obulco, which he is mentioned as having reached in twenty-seven -days from Rome, may be considered the advanced post of the country that -was favourable to his cause. - -The present ignoble name of the town--Porcuna,--appears to have been -bestowed upon it from the extraordinary fecundity of a _sow_; an -inscription, commemorative of the birth of thirty young pigs at one -litter, being preserved to this day in the church of the Benedictine -friars, and is thus worded:-- - - C. CORNELIVS. C. F. - CN. GAL. CAESO. - AED. FLAMEN. II. VIR - MVNICIPII. PONTIF - C. CORN. CAESO. F. - SACERDOS. GENT. MVNICIPII - SCROFAM CVM PORCIS XXX - IMPENSA IPSORVM. - D. D. - -From Aldea del Rio to Andujar is fourteen miles, making the whole -distance from Cordoba to that place forty-three miles. The country is -very gently undulated, and principally under tillage; the ride, however, -is dreary, there being but one house on the road. - -Andujar stands altogether on the right bank of the Guadalquivir, which -is crossed by a bridge of nine arches. The town is reputed to contain a -population of 12,000 souls, but that number is a manifest exaggeration. -It is encompassed by old Roman walls, and defended by an ancient castle, -and is celebrated for its manufacture of pottery. It is, nevertheless, a -dilapidated, impoverished looking place. - -By some Andujar is supposed to be the Illiturgi,[154] or, as it is -otherwise written, Illurtigis of the ancient historians; but Florez -fixes the site of that city two leagues higher up, but on the same bank -of the Guadalquivir, and imagines Andujar to be Ipasturgi. The locality -of the existing town certainly but ill agrees with the description of -Illurtigis given by Livy, for no part of Andujar is "covered by a high -rock."[155] - -The _arrecife_ to Madrid leaves the banks of the Guadalquivir at -Andujar, striking inland to Baylen, and thence across the Sierra Morena -by the pass of _Despena Perros_. After devoting a few hours to exploring -the old walls of the town, we recrossed the river, and bent our steps -towards Granada, taking the road to Jaen. - -We proceeded that afternoon to Torre Ximena, twenty miles from Andujar. -The country is undulated, and mostly under cultivation. The road is--or, -more properly, I should say, perhaps, the places upon the road are--very -incorrectly laid down on the Spanish maps; for, instead of being -scattered east and west over the face of the country, they are so nearly -in line, as to make the general direction of the road nearly straight. -Though but a cross-country track, it is tolerably good throughout. The -first town it visits is Arjona, said to be the ancient Urgao, or -Virgao.[156] It is a poor place, of some twelve or fifteen hundred -inhabitants, and distant seven miles from the Guadalquivir. - -Five miles beyond Arjona, but lying half pistol shot off the road to the -right, is the miserable little village of Escanuela; and three miles -further on, the equally wretched town of Villa Don Pardo. From hence to -Torre Ximeno (five miles) the road traverses a vast plain, but, ere we -had proceeded half way, night overtook us, and on reaching the town we -found all the entrances most carefully closed. - -After making various attempts to gain admission--groping our way from -one barricade to another, until we had nearly completed the circuit of -the town--we perceived a light glimmering at some little distance in the -country, and hoping it proceeded from some _rancha_, where we might -obtain shelter from an approaching storm, if not accommodation for the -night, we spurred our jaded animals towards it as fast as the ruggedness -of the ground would admit. It proved, however, to be only the remains of -a fire made for the purpose of destroying weeds; but a peasant lad, who -was warming his evening meal over the expiring embers, pointed out a -path leading to one of the town gates, at which, he said, we might, -perhaps, gain admission. - -Following his directions, we found the gate without much trouble; but a -difficulty now arose that promised to be of a more insuperable nature, -namely, that of _awaking the guard_, for the combined efforts of our -voices proved quite inadequate to the purpose. - -It was very vexatious, but irresistibly ludicrous; and, prompted by this -mixed feeling of wrath and merriment, we determined to try what effect -would be produced by a general discharge of our pistols, and, -accordingly riding close up to the gate, fired a volley in the air. - -A tremendous discharge of _carajos!_ responded to our _salvo_, and -soldiers, policemen, custom-house officers, and health-officers, sallied -forth, helter skelter, from the guard-house and adjacent dwellings, -making off "with the very extremest inch of possibility," under the -impression that the place was attacked. - -One _aduanero_, however, more enterprising and valiant than the rest, -ventured to peep through the bars of the stockade and demand our -business; on learning which he encouragingly invited the _urbanos_ to -return to their _military duty_, whilst he despatched a messenger to the -_Alcalde_ to request instructions for their further proceedings. - -We were subjected meanwhile to a most vexatious detention, occasioned by -various causes. Firstly, because the village dictator was nowhere to be -found. He had--so it eventually turned out--started from his comfortable -seat at the fire of the _posada_ (where, surrounded by a knot of -politicians, he was discussing the justice of abrogating the Salique -law), at the first report of our fire-arms, and, wrapping his cloak -around him, had rushed into the street, declaring his intention of -meeting death like the last of the Palaeologi, rather than be recognised -and spared, to grace the triumph of a victorious enemy. Then we had to -wait for the key of the gate, which had been carried off in the pocket -of one of the runaway soldiers; and, lastly, for a light, the guard-lamp -having been overturned in the general confusion, and all the oil spilt. - -During the half hour's delay occasioned by these various untoward -circumstances, we were subjected to a long verbal examination, touching -the part of the country whence we had come; for having wandered round -the town in our attempts to gain admission, until we had reached a gate -at the very opposite point of the compass to that which points to -Andujar, the account we gave seemed to awaken great doubts of our -veracity in the minds of these vigilant functionaries; and, even after a -lantern had been brought, and our passports delivered up, we underwent a -minute personal examination, ere being permitted to repair to the -posada. - -The Spaniards say, that we English are "_victimas de la etiqueta_;" and, -certes, we may compliment them, in return, on being the most complete -_slaves to form_. Instances in proof thereof,--which, though on a -smaller scale, were scarcely less laughable than the -foregoing,--occurred daily in the course of our journey. _Par example_, -on leaving the _venta_ at Fuente de Piedra, where our sleeping apartment -was little better than the stable into which it opened, the hostess -insisted on serving our morning cup of chocolate on a table partially -covered with a dirty towel, saying, it would not be "_decente_" to allow -us to take it standing at the kitchen fire. - -Here again, at Torre Ximeno, the landlord was conducting us into what he -conceived to be a befitting apartment, when his better half cried out, -"_a la sala! a la sala!_"[157] We pricked up our ears, fancying we were -to be in clover. The _sala_, however, proved to be a room about ten feet -longer than that into which we were first shown, but in every other -respect its _fac simile_; that is to say, it had bare white-washed walls -and a plastered floor, was furnished with half a dozen low rush-bottomed -chairs, and ventilated by two apertures, which at some distant period -had been closed by shutters. - -The floor presented so uneven a surface, and was marked with so many -rents, that, until encouraged by the landlord's "_no tiene usted -cuidado_,"[158] I was particularly careful where I placed my feet, -taking it to be a highly finished model of the circumjacent sierras and -water-courses. - -After more than the usual difficulties about bills of health and -passports, we received a very civil message from the _Alcalde_, to say, -that his house, &c. &c., were at our disposal; but our host and his -helpmate seemed so well inclined to do what was in their power to make -us _comfortable_, that we declined his polite offer. - -Our landlady was still remarkably pretty, though the mother of four -children--a rare occurrence in Spain, where mothers, however young they -may be, usually look like old women. We had some little difficulty in -persuading her that we did not like garlic, and that we should be -satisfied with a very moderate quantity of oil in the _guisado_[159] she -undertook to prepare for our supper, and on which, with bread and fruit, -and some excellent wine, we made a hearty meal. - -Contrasts in Spain are most absurd. We slept on thin woollen mattresses, -spread upon the before-mentioned mountainous floor--the serrated ridges -of which we had some little difficulty in fitting to our ribs--and in -the morning were furnished with towels bordered with a kind of thread -lace and fringe to the depth of at least eighteen inches; very -ornamental, but by no means useful, since the serviceable part of the -towel was hardly get-at-able. - -On asking our hostess for the bill, we were referred to her husband, -which, as the Easterns say, led us to regard her with the eyes of -astonishment; for this reference from the lady and mistress to her -helpmate, is the exception to the rule, and it was to save trouble we -had applied to her, experience having taught us that the landlady was -generally the oracle on these occasions; _invariably_, indeed, when -there is any intention to cheat. - -This, without explanation, may be deemed a most ungallant accusation; I -do not mean by it, however, to screen my own sex at the expense of the -fairer, for the truth is, the man adds duplicity to his other sins, by -retiring from the impending altercation. This he does either from -thinking that imposition will come with a better grace from his better -half, or, that she will be more ingenious in finding out reasons for the -exorbitance of the demand, or, at all events, words in defending it; for -any attempt at expostulation is drowned in such a torrent of whys and -wherefores, that one is glad, _coute qui coute_, to escape from the -encounter. And thus, whilst the lady's volubility is extracting the -money from their lodger's pocket, mine host stands aloof, looking as -like a hen-pecked mortal as he possibly can, and shrugging his -shoulders from time to time, as much as to say, "It is none of my doing! -I would help you if I dare, but you see what a devil she is!" - -On the present occasion, however, we had no reason to remonstrate, for, -to a very moderate charge, were added numerous excuses for any thing -that might have been amiss in our accommodation, in consequence of their -ignorance of our wants. - -Torre Ximeno is situated in a narrow valley, watered by a fine stream; -its walls, however, reach to the crest of the hills on both sides, and -apparently rest on a Roman foundation. It contains a population of 1,800 -souls. From hence a road proceeds, by way of Martos and Alcala la Real, -to Granada, but it is more circuitous than that by Jaen. - -From Torre Ximeno to that city is two long leagues, or about nine miles. -The road now takes a more easterly direction than heretofore, and, at -the distance of three miles, reaches the village of Torre Campo. The -rest of the way lies over an undulated country, which slants gradually -towards the mountains, that rise to the eastward. - -Jaen is situated on the outskirts of the great Sierra de Susana, which, -dividing the waters of the Guadalquivir and Genil, spreads as far south -as the vale of Granada. The city is built on the eastern slope of a -rough and very inaccessible ridge, whose summit is occupied by an old -castle, enclosed by extensive outworks. - -The ancient name of the place was Aurinx, and it appears to have stood -just without the limits of ancient Boetica. It is now the capital of -one of the kingdoms composing the province of Andalusia, and the see of -a bishop in the archbishoprick of Toledo. Its population amounts to at -least 20,000 souls. - -Jaen is in every respect a most interesting city. It is frequently -mentioned by the Roman historians, was equally noted in the time of the -Moors, from whom it was wrested by San Fernando, A.D. 1246, and of late -years has held a distinguished place in the pages of military history. -Its situation is picturesque in the extreme, the bright city being on -the edge of a rich and fertile basin, encased by wild and lofty -mountains. The asperity of the country to the south is such indeed, -that, until within the last few years no road practicable for carriages -penetrated it, and Jaen has consequently been but very-little visited by -travellers; for Granada and Cordoba, being the great objects of -attraction, the most direct road between those two places was that which -was generally preferred. - -A direct and excellent road has now, however, been completed, between -Granada and the capital, passing through Jaen. This route crosses the -Guadalquivir at Menjiber, and, directed thence on Baylen, falls into the -_arrecife_ from Cordoba to Madrid, ere it enters the defiles of the -Sierra Morena. - -The castle of Jaen stands 800 feet above the city, and is still a fine -specimen of a Moslem fortress, though the picturesque has been -sacrificed to the defensive by various French additions and demolitions. -It crowns the crest of a narrow ridge much in the style of the castle of -Ximena, to which, in other respects, it also bears a strong resemblance. -Its tanks and subterraneous magazines are in tolerable preservation, but -the exterior walls of the fortress were partially destroyed by the -French, in their hurried evacuation of it in 1812. - -The view it commands is strikingly fine. An extensive plain spreads -northward, reaching seemingly to the very foot of the distant Sierra -Morena, and on every other side rugged mountains rise in the immediate -vicinity of the city, which, clad with vines wherever their roots can -find holding ground, present a strange union of fruitfulness and -aridity. - -The city contains fifteen convents, and numerous manufactories of silk, -linen and woollen cloths, and mats, and has a thriving appearance. The -streets are, for the most part, so narrow, that, with outstretched -arms, I could touch the houses on both sides of them. - -The cathedral is a very handsome edifice of Corinthian architecture, 300 -feet long, and built in a very pure style; indeed every thing about it -is in good keeping for Spanish taste. The pavement is laid in chequered -slabs of black and white marble; the walls are hung with good paintings, -but not encumbered with them; the various altars, though enriched with -fine specimens of marbles and jaspers, are not gaudily ornamented; the -organ is splendid in appearance and rich in tone. - -Some paintings by Moya, particularly a Holy Family, and the visit of -Elizabeth to the Virgin Mary, are remarkably good; and the _Capilla -sagrada_ contains several others by the same master, which are equally -worthy of notice: their frames of polished red marble have a good -effect. - -The only specimens of sculpture of which the cathedral can boast, are -some weeping cherubim, done to the very life. The greatest curiosity it -contains is the figure of Our Saviour on the cross, dressed in a kilt; -but the treasure of treasures of the holy edifice, the proud boast of -the favoured city itself, in fact, is the _Santa faz_--the Holy face. - -The _Santa faz_--so our conductor explained to us--is the impression of -Our Saviour's face, left in stains of blood on the white napkin which -bound up his head when deposited in the sepulchre. This cloth was thrice -folded over the face, so that three of these "_pinturas_," as the priest -called them, were taken. That of Jaen, he said, was the second or middle -one, the others are in Italy--where, I know not, but I have some -recollection of having heard of them when in that country. - -This miraculous picture is only to be viewed on very particular -occasions, or by paying a very considerable fee; but we were perfectly -satisfied with our cicerone's assurance of its "striking resemblance" to -Our Saviour, without requiring the ocular demonstration he was most -solicitous to afford. - -Attached to the cathedral is a kitchen for preparing the morning -chocolate of the priests, and which serves also as a snuggery, -where-unto they retire to smoke their _legitimos_ during the breaks in -their tedious lental services. - -The _Parador de los Caballeros_, in the Plaza _del Mercado_ is -remarkably good, and the view from the front windows, looking towards -the castle is very fine. - -The distance from Jaen to Granada, by the newly made _arrecife_, is -fifty-one miles. It descends gradually into the valley of the Campillos, -arriving at, and crossing the river about two miles from Jaen. - -The valley is wide, flat, and covered with a rich alluvial deposit; and -extends for several leagues in both directions along the course of the -stream, encircling the city with an ever-verdant belt of cultivation. - -For the succeeding three leagues, the road proceeds along this valley, -at first bordered with gardens, orchards, and vineyards, amongst which -numerous cottages and water-mills are scattered, but, after advancing -about five miles, overhung by rocky ridges, and occasionally shaded with -forest-trees. - -On a steep mound, on the right hand, forming the first mountain gorge -that the road enters, is situated the _Castillo de la Guarda_, and, at -the distance of three leagues from Jaen, is the _Torre de la Cabeza_, -similarly situated on the left of the road. Beyond this, another verdant -belt of cultivation gladdens the eye, extending about a mile and a half -along the course of the Campillos. In the midst of this, is the _Venta -del Puerto Suelo_, on arriving at which our _mozo_, who for several days -had been suffering from indisposition, came to inform us "_que no podia -mas_,"[160] requested we would leave him there to rest for a couple of -days; when he hoped to be able to rejoin us at Granada by means of a -_Galera_ that travelled the road periodically. - -We could not but accede to his request, and as we purposed reaching -Granada on the following day, the loss of his attendance for so short a -period was of little importance; the only difficulty was, who should -lead the baggage animal.--Fortune befriended us. - -On our arrival at the inn we had been accosted by a smart-looking young -fellow, in the undress uniform of a Spanish infantry soldier, who, -seeing the disabled state of our Esquire, volunteered his services to -lead our horses to the stable, and minister to their wants; and now, -learning from our _mozo_ how matters stood, he again came forward, and -offered to be our attendant during the remainder of the journey to -Granada, to which place he himself was proceeding. - -We gladly accepted his proffered services, and, after a short rest, -remounted our horses, and pursued our way; the young soldier--like an -old campaigner--seating himself between our portmanteaus on the back of -the baggage animal. Whilst jogging on before us, I observed, for the -first time, that he carried a bright tin case suspended from his -shoulder by a silken cord, and curious to know the purpose to which it -was applied, asked what it contained. - -Without uttering a word in reply, he took off the case, produced -therefrom a roll of parchment, and, spreading before us a long document -concluding with the words _Io el Rey_,[161] offered it for my perusal. -If my surprise was great at the length of the scroll, it was not -diminished on finding, after wading through the usual verbose and -bombastic preamble, that it dubbed our new acquaintance a knight of the -first class of _San Fernando_, and decorated him with the ribbon and -silver clasp of the same distinguished order. - -On first addressing him at the Venta, I had noticed a bit of ribbon on -his breast, but, aware that the very smell of powder, even though it -should be but that of his own musket, often _entitles_ a Spanish soldier -to a decoration; and, indeed, that it is more frequently an -acknowledgment of so many months' pay due, than of so much good service -done,[162] I had abstained from questioning him concerning it; but that -the first class decoration of a military order should have been bestowed -on one so low in rank as a corporal, I confess, surprised me; and I -concluded that its possessor was either the brother of the mistress of -some great man, or that he was passing off some other person's _honors_ -as his own. - -Being a very young man, it was evident he could not have seen much -service; my suspicions were, therefore, excusable, and I took the -liberty of cross-questioning him concerning the fields wherein his -laurels had been gathered. The result gave me such satisfaction that I -feel in justice bound to make the _amende honorable_ to the gallant -fellow for the foul suspicions I had entertained, by giving my readers -his history. As, however, it is somewhat long, I will postpone it for -the present--as, indeed, not having arrived at its conclusion for -several days, it is but methodically correct I should do--merely -premising in this place, that, besides the _Diploma_, the tin case -contained a statement of the particular services for which he obtained -his knighthood, drawn up and attested by the officers of his regiment. - -About a mile beyond the Venta where we had fallen in with our new -attendant, the country again becomes very wild and broken, and the hills -are covered with pine woods. The valley of the Campillos gets more and -more confined as the road proceeds, and is bounded by precipitous rocks; -and, at length, on reaching the _Puerta de Arenas_, the passage, for the -road and river together, does not exceed sixty feet, the cliffs rising -perpendicularly on both sides to a considerable height. - -This is a very defensible pass, looking towards Granada, but not so in -the opposite direction, as it is commanded by higher ground. It is about -eighteen miles from Jaen. - -On emerging from the pass, an open, cultivated valley presents itself; -towards the head of which, distant about four miles, is Campillos -Arenas, a wretched village, containing some fifty or sixty _vecinos_. We -were stopt at the entrance by an old beggarman, who was officiating as -_health_ officer, and demanded our passports, which, on receiving, he -ceremoniously forwarded to Head Quarters by a ragged, barefoot urchin, -with the promise of an _ochavo_[163] if he used despatch in bringing -them back to us. - -Our passports had now become a serious nuisance, from being completely -covered with _vises_ both inside and out; for, of course, the curiosity -of the natives was proportioned to the number of signatures they -contained, and their astonishment was boundless that we should be -travelling south at such a moment. At length, our papers were returned -to us, and the boy gained his promised reward by running with all his -might, to prove that the tedious delay we experienced was not -attributable to him. - -Proceeding onwards, in three quarters of an hour, we reached the -_Parador de San Rafael_, a newly built house of call for the diligence, -recently established on this road. It is about twenty-four miles from -Jaen, and twenty-seven from Granada, though, as the crow flies, the -distance is rather shorter, perhaps, to the latter city than to the -first named. It is a place of much resort, and we were happy to find -that San Rafael presided over comfortable beds, and good dinners, though -rather careless of the state of the wine-cellar. - -We started at an early hour next morning, our knightly attendant, with -his red epaulettes, and janty foraging cap, together with a _de haut en -bas_ manner assumed towards the passing peasantry and arrieros, causing -us to be regarded with no inconsiderable degree of respect. - -The road, for the first eight miles, is one continuation of zig zags -over a very mountainous country, and must be kept up at an immense -expense to the government, for there is but very little traffic upon it. -The hills are principally covered with forests of ilex, but patches of -land have recently been taken into cultivation in the valleys, and -houses are thinly scattered along the road. At ten miles and a half, we -passed the first village we had seen since leaving Campillos Arenas. It -is about a mile from the road on the left. The country now becomes less -rugged than heretofore, though it continues equally devoid of -cultivation and inhabitants. - -We were much disappointed at not finding a good _posada_ on the road, as -we had been led to expect. We passed two in process of building on a -magnificent scale, but nothing could be had at either. At last, after -riding four long leagues--at a foot's pace, on account of our baggage -animal--a farmer took compassion upon us, and, leading the way to his -_Cortijo_, supplied our famished horses with a feed of barley, and set -before ourselves all the good things his house afforded--melons, grapes, -fresh eggs, and delicious bread. - -We arrived at the farmer's dinner hour, and a wide circle, comprising -his wife, children, cowherds, ploughboys, and dairymaids, was already -formed round the huge family bowl of _gazpacho fresco_, of which we -received a general invitation to partake. It was far too light a meal, -however, to satisfy the cravings of our appetites, and politely -declining to dip our spoons in their common mess, we commenced making -the usual preparations for an English breakfast, by unpacking our -travelling canteen and placing a skillet of water upon the fire. - -The curiosity of the peasantry on these occasions amused us exceedingly. -In this instance the spectators, who probably had never before come in -such close contact with Englishmen, watched each of our movements with -the greatest interest. The beating up an egg as a substitute for milk, -excited universal astonishment; and the production of knives, forks, and -spoons, took their breath away; but when our travelling teapot was -placed on the table, their wonderment defies description; many started -from their seats to obtain a near view of the extraordinary machine, -and our host, after a minute examination, venturing, at last, to expose -his ignorance by asking to what use it was applied, exclaimed in -raptures, as if it was a thing he had heard of, "_y esa es una -tepa!_"[164] "_Una tepa!_" was repeated in all the graduated intonations -of the three generations of spectators present; "_una tepa! caramba! que -gente tan fina los Ingleses!_" - -We now carried on the joke by inflating an air cushion, but the use to -which it was applied alone surprised them; for our host with a nod -signifying "I understand," took down a huge pig-skin of wine, and made -preparations to transfer a portion of its contents to our portable -_caoutchouc_ pillow. On explaining the purpose to which it was applied, -"_Jesus! una almohada!_"[165] exclaimed all the women with one -accord--"_Que gente tan deleytosa!_"[166] - -Our percussion pistols next excited their astonishment, and by ocular -demonstration only could we convince them that they were fired without -"una piedra;"[167] but when I assured our host that, in England, -_diligences_ were propelled by steam at the rate of ten leagues an hour, -his amazement was evidently stretched beyond the bounds of credulity. -"_Como! sin caballos, sin mulas, sin nada, sino el vapor!_"[168] he -ejaculated; and his shoulders gradually rising above his ears, as I -repeated the astounding assertion, he turned with a look, half horror, -half amazement, to his assembled countrymen, saying as plainly as eyes -could speak--either these English deal largely with the devil, or are -most extraordinary romancers. - -If our equipment surprised them, we were not less astonished at the -number of cats, without tails, that were prowling about the house; and -asking the reason for mutilating the unfortunate creatures in this -unnatural way, our host replied, "These animals, to be useful, must have -free access to every part of the premises; but, when their tails are -long, they do incredible mischief amongst the plates, dishes, and other -friable articles, arranged upon the dresser, or left upon the table; -whereas, docked as you now see them, they move about without ceremony, -and, even in the midst of a labyrinth of crockery, do not the slightest -damage. All the mischief of this animal is in his tail." - -We had great difficulty in persuading our hospitable entertainer to -accept of any remuneration for what he had furnished us, and only -succeeded by requesting he would distribute our gift amongst his -children. - -From his farm, which is called the _Cortijo de los Arenales_, to -Granada, is nine miles. The country, during the whole distance, is -undulated, and mostly covered with vines and olives. On the right, some -leagues distant, we saw the town and _tajo_ of Moclin; and at three -miles from the _Cortijo_ crossed the river Cubillas, which, flowing -westward to the plain of Granada, empties itself into the Genil. A -little way beyond this the Sierra de Elvira rises abruptly on the right, -and thenceforth the ground falls very gradually all the way to Granada. - -Our sojourn at Granada was prolonged much beyond the period we had -originally intended, by the difficulty of ascertaining the truth of a -report that the cholera had appeared at Malaga; but, at length, it was -officially notified by a proclamation of the captain-general, that in -answer to a despatch sent to the governor of Malaga, he had been assured -that city was perfectly free from the disease; and a caravan, composed -of numberless _galeras_, _coches_, and _arrieros_, that had been -detained at Granada for a fortnight in consequence of this rumour, -forthwith proceeded to the sea-port. - -Sending our baggage animal forward, directing the mozo--whose -indisposition had abated so as to allow of his rejoining us, and -resuming his duty--to proceed along the high road to Loja until we -overtook him, we set off ourselves at mid-day to visit the _Soto de -Roma_.[169] - -The road thither strikes off from the _arrecife_ to Loja, soon after -passing the city of Santa Fe,[170] and traversing Chauchina, after much -twisting and turning, reaches Fuente Vaquero, a village belonging to the -Duke of Wellington, where his agent, General O'Lawler, has a house. - -From thence a long avenue leads to the _Casa Real_, which is situated on -the right bank of the Genil. The avenue, both trees and road, is in a -very bad state. On the left hand there is a wood of some extent; the -forest-trees it contains are chiefly elms and white poplars, but there -are also a few oaks. The ground is extremely rich, and was covered with -fine crops of maize and hemp; and, on the whole, it struck me the estate -was in better order than the properties adjoining it. - -The house, however, which at the period of my former visit to Granada -was in a tolerable state of repair, I now found in a wretched plight. -The court-yard was made the general receptacle for manure; the -coach-house and stables were turned into barns and cattle-sheds; the -garden was overgrown with weeds; and, basking in the sun, lay young -pigs amongst the roses. - -From having been the favourite retreat of the Minister Wall, it has -degenerated, in fact, into a very second-rate description of farmhouse. -This change, however, was inevitable; for, besides that the taste for -country-houses is very rare amongst Spaniards, and that the difficulty -of procuring a tenant who would keep it in order would, consequently, be -very great, the situation of the house is not such as a lover of fine -scenery would choose in the vicinity of Granada. - -The estate of the Soto de Roma has suffered great damage within the last -few years, from the Genil having burst its banks, laid waste the -country, and formed itself a new bed; and the stream not being now -properly banked in, keeps continually "_comiendo_"[171] the ground on -both sides. This evil should be corrected immediately, or, in the event -of another extraordinary rise in the river, it may lead to incalculable -mischief. The best and cheapest plan of doing this, would be to force -the stream back into its old channel. The elm woods on the estate would -furnish excellent piles for this purpose, and, by being cut down, would -clear some valuable ground which at present lies almost profitless. - -After recrossing the Genil we arrived at another village, inhabited by -the peasantry of the Soto de Roma, and soon after at a wretched place -called Cijuela. The country in its vicinity was flooded for a -considerable extent, and we had great difficulty in following the road, -and avoiding the ditches that bound it. At length we got once more upon -the _arrecife_, and reached Lachar; a vile place, reckoned four leagues -from Granada. - -From thence to the Venta de Cacin is called two leagues, but they are of -Brobdignag measurement. The road is heavy, and the country becomes hilly -soon after leaving Lachar. A league beyond the Venta de Cacin is the -Venta del Pulgar, situated in the midst of gardens and olive -plantations. - -It was 11 P.M. when we arrived, for, having missed our way in fording -the wide bed of the river Cacin (which crosses the road just beyond the -Venta of that name), we had wandered for two hours in the dark; and -might have done so until morning, but that our progress was cut short by -the river Genil. We thought the wisest plan would be to return to the -venta, and endeavour to procure a guide, which we fortunately succeeded -in doing. The _ventero_ had previously informed us that he had seen our -_mozo_ pass on with the baggage animal towards Loja, which made us -rather anxious for its safety, otherwise we should have rested at his -house for the night. - -On arriving at the Venta del Pulgar, we found our attendant established -there, and in some little alarm at our prolonged absence. Indeed the -faithful fellow was so uneasy, that he was about proceeding on a fresh -horse in search of us. The night was excessively cold, and we duly -appreciated the fire and hot supper his providence had caused to be -prepared. - -This venta is but a short league from Loja, the ride to which place is -very delightful, the rich valley of the Genil (here contracted to the -width of a mile) being on the right, a fine range of mountains on the -left, whilst the river frequently approaches close to the road, adding -by its snakelike windings to the beauty of the scenery. - -The town of Loja stands on the south side of a rocky gorge, by which the -Genil escapes from the fertile _Vega_ of Granada. The mountains on both -sides the river are lofty, and of an inaccessible nature, so that the -old Moorish fortress, though occupying the widest part of the defile, -completely commands this important outlet from the territory of Granada, -as well as the bridge over the Genil. - -It was a place of great strength in times past, and Ferdinand and -Isabella were repulsed with great loss on their first attempt to gain -possession of it. The second attack of the "Catholic kings," made some -years afterwards (i. e. in 1487), was more successful, and the English -auxiliaries, under the Earl of Rivers, particularly distinguished -themselves on the occasion. - -Loja is proverbially noted for the fertility of its gardens and -orchards, the abundance and purity of its springs, and the loose morals -and hard features of its inhabitants. Its situation is peculiarly -picturesque, the town being built upon a steep acclivity, unbosomed in -groves of fruit trees and overlooked by a toppling mountain. The view of -the distant _Sierra Nevada_ gives additional interest to the scenery. It -contains a population of 9000 souls. - -From Loja to Malaga is forty-three miles. The country throughout is -extremely mountainous, but the road, nevertheless, is so good as to be -traversed by a diligence. Soon after leaving Loja, a road strikes off to -the right to Antequera, four leagues; and this, in fact, is the great -road from Granada to Seville, and the only portion of it that is -interrupted by mountains. - -The _arrecife_ to Malaga, leaving the village of Alfarnate to the left, -at sixteen miles, reaches the solitary venta of the same name; and two -miles beyond, the equally lonely venta of Dornejo, considered the -half-way house from Loja. The view from hence is remarkably fine, and we -enjoyed the scenery to perfection, having remained the night at the -venta, and witnessed the splendid effects of both the setting and rising -sun. - -This is the highest point the road reaches, and is, I should think, -about 4000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean. - -From the Venta de Dornejo the road proceeds to El Colmenar, eight miles. -The mountains that encompass this little town are clad to their very -summits with vines, and from the luscious grapes grown in its -neighbourhood is made the sweet wine, well known in England under the -name of Mountain. - -From El Colmenar the road is conducted nine miles along the spine of a -narrow tortuous ridge, that divides the Gualmedina, or river of Malaga, -from various streams flowing to the eastward, reaching, at last, a point -where a splendid view is obtained of the rich vale of Malaga, encircled -by the boldly outlined mountains of Mijas, Monda, and Casarabonela. The -_coup d'oeil_ is truly magnificent; the bright city lies basking in -the sun, on the margin of the Mediterranean, seemingly at the -spectator's feet; but eight miles of a continual descent have yet to be -accomplished ere reaching it. - -The engineer's pertinacious adherence to his plan of keeping the road on -one unvarying inclined plane, tries the patience to an extraordinary -degree, but the work is admirably executed. In the whole of these last -eight miles there is not one house on the road side, though several neat -villas are scattered amongst the ravines below it, on drawing near -Malaga. - -This difficult passage through the Serrania has been effected only at an -enormous cost of money and labour; but, as a work of art, it ranks with -any of the splendid roads lately made across the Alps. The scenery along -it, especially after gaining the southern side of the principal -mountain-chain, when the Mediterranean is brought to view, surpasses any -thing that is to be met with in those more celebrated, because more -frequented, cloud-capped regions. - -Another very fine road has been opened through the mountains between -Malaga and Antequera. The scenery along this is very grand, though -inferior to that just described. The distance between the two places is -about twenty-eight miles, reckoned eight leagues. The road is conducted -along the valley of Rio Gordo, or Campanillos; and, it is alleged, -through some private influence was made unnecessarily circuitous, to -visit the Venta de Galvez. This, and two other ventas, are almost the -only habitations on the road. About four miles from Antequera, the road -reaches the summit of the great mountain-ridge that pens in the -Guadaljorce, which falls very rapidly on its northern side. - -Antequera is situated near the foot of the mountain, but in a hollow -formed by a swelling hill, which, detached from the chain of sierra, -shelters it to the north. It is a large, well-built, and populous city, -contains twenty religious houses, numerous manufactories of linen and -woollen cloths, silks, serges, &c., and 40,000 souls. - -An old castle, situated on a conical knoll, overlooks the city to the -east. It formerly contained a valuable collection of ancient armour, but -the greater part has been removed. - -The city of _Anticaria_ is mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus; but, -as no notice is taken of it by Pliny, it probably was known in his day -by some other name. Some antiquaries have imagined Antequera to be -Singilia; but this is very improbable, as it is nearly four leagues -distant from the Singilis (Genil). - -Even the Guadaljorce does not approach within a mile of the city, which -depends upon its fountains for water; for though a fine rivulet flows -down from the mountains at the back of the city, washing the eastern -base of the castle hill, and sweeping round to the westward, where it -unites with the Guadaljorce, yet it merely serves to render the valley -fruitful, and to turn the wheels of the mills which supply the city with -flour and oil. - -At a league north-east from Antequera a lofty conical mountain, -distinguished by the romantic name of _El Penon de los Enamorados_ (Rock -of the Lovers), rises from the plain; and a league beyond it is the town -of Archidona, on the great road from Granada to Seville. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - MALAGA--EXCURSION TO MARBELLA AND - MONDA--CHURRIANA--BENALMAINA--FUENGIROLA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF SUEL--SCALE TO BE ADOPTED, IN ORDER TO MAKE - THE MEASUREMENTS GIVEN IN THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS AGREE WITH THE - ACTUAL DISTANCE FROM MALAGA TO CARTEIA--ERRORS OF CARTER--CASTLE OF - FUENGIROLA--ROAD TO MARBELLA--TOWERS AND CASA FUERTES--DISPUTED - SITE OF SALDUBA--DESCRIPTION OF MARBELLA--ABANDONED MINES--DISTANCE - TO GIBRALTAR. - - -We found Malaga a deserted city, for the dread of cholera had carried -off half its inhabitants; not, however, to their last home, but to -Alhaurin, Coin, Churriara, and other towns in the vicinity, in the hope -of postponing their visit to a final resting-place by a temporary change -to a more salubrious atmosphere than that of the fetid seaport. - -Our zealous and indefatigable consul, Mr. Mark, still, however, remained -at his post, and his hospitality and kindness rendered our short stay as -agreeable as, under existing circumstances, it well could be. - -Understanding that a vessel was about to proceed to Ceuta in the course -of a few days, we resolved to take advantage of this favourable -opportunity of visiting that fortress--the Port Jackson of Spain; and -having already seen every thing worthy of observation in Malaga (of -which due notice has been taken in a former chapter), we agreed to -devote the intervening days to a short excursion to Marbella, Monda, and -other interesting towns in the vicinity. - -Leaving, therefore, the still hot, but no longer bustling city, late in -the afternoon, we took the road to the ferry near the mouth of the -Guadaljorce, and leaving the road to _El Retiro_ to the right on gaining -the southern bank of the river, proceeded to Churriana. - -We were disappointed both in the town and in the accommodation afforded -at the inn, for the place being much resorted to by the merchants of -Malaga, we naturally looked forward to something above the common run of -Spanish towns and Spanish posadas, whereas we found both the one and the -other rather below par. The town is quite as dirty as Malaga, but, -perhaps, somewhat more wholesome; for the filth with which the streets -are strewed _not_ being watered by a trickling stream, to keep it in a -state of fermentation throughout the summer, is soon burnt up, and -becomes innoxious. - -The town stands at a slight elevation above the vale of Malaga, and -commands a fine view to the eastward. - -We left the wretched venta betimes on the following morning, and -proceeded towards Marbella, leaving on our left the little village of -Torre Molinos, situated on the Mediterranean shore (distant one league -from Churriana), and reaching Benalmaina in two hours and a half. The -road keeps the whole way within half a mile of the sea, and about the -same distance from a range of barren sierras on the right. No part of it -is good but the ascent to Benalmaina (or, as it is sometimes, and -perhaps more correctly written, Benalmedina), is execrable. - -This village is surrounded with vineyards, and groves of orange and fig -trees; is watered by a fine clear stream, which serves to irrigate some -patches of garden-ground, as well as to turn numerous mill-wheels; and, -from the general sterility of the country around, has obtained a -reputation for amenity of situation that it scarcely deserves. - -In something less than an hour, descending the whole time, we reached -the Mediterranean shore, and continuing along it for a mile, arrived at -the Torre Blanca--a high white tower, situated on a rugged cliff that -borders the coast, and in the vicinity of which are numerous ruins. Some -little distance beyond this the cliffs terminate, and a fine plain, -covered with gardens and orchards, stretches inland for several miles. - -Nature has been peculiarly bountiful to this sunny valley, for the river -of Mijas winds through, and fertilizes the whole of its eastern side; -whilst the western portion is watered by the river Gomenarro, or--word -offensive to British ears--Fuengirola. - -The plain is about two miles across, and near its western extremity; and -a little removed from the seashore is the fishing village of Fuengirola. -It is a small and particularly dirty place, but contains a population of -1000 souls. The distance from Malaga is reckoned by the natives five -leagues, "three long and two short," according to their curious mode of -computation; but, I think, in reducing them to English miles, the usual -average of four per league may be taken. The last league of the road is -very good. The town of Mijas, rich in wine and oil, is perched high up -on the side of a rugged mountain, about four miles north of Fuengirola. -A _trocha_ leads from thence, over the mountains, into the valley of the -Guadaljorce, debouching upon Alhaurinejo; and to those in whose -travelling scales the picturesque outweighs the breakneck, I would -strongly recommend this route from Malaga in preference to the tamer, -somewhat better, and, perhaps, rather shorter road, that borders the -coast. - -The old and, alas! too celebrated castle of Fuengirola, or Frangirola, -occupies the point of a rocky tongue that juts some way into the sea, -about half a mile beyond the fishing village of the same name. It is a -work of the Moors, built, as some say, on an ancient foundation, -imagined to be that of Suel; whilst others maintain, that the vestigia -of antiquity built into its walls, were brought there from some place in -the neighbourhood. - -That _Suel_ did not stand here appears to me very evident; for though -the actual distance from Malaga to Fuengirola exceeds but little that -given in the Itinerary of Antoninus from Malaca to Suel, viz., -twenty-one miles--calculating seventy-five Roman miles to a degree of -the meridian;--yet, as the Itinerary makes the whole distance from -Malaca to Calpe Carteia eighty-nine miles,[172] whereas, even following -all the sinuosities of the coast, it can be eked out only to eighty (of -the above standard), it seems clear that the length of the mile has been -somewhat overrated. - -That I may not incur the reproach of "extreme confidence," in venturing -to publish an opinion differing from that of various learned antiquaries -who have written on the subject, I will endeavour to show that my doubt -has, at all events, some reasonable foundation to rest upon. - -Supposing that the distances given in the Itinerary between Malaca and -Calpe Carteia were respectively correct, but that the error--which, in -consequence, was evident--had been made by over-estimating the length of -the Roman mile in use at the period the Itinerary was compiled, I found, -by dividing the _actual_ distance into eighty-nine parts (following such -an irregular line as a road, considering the ruggedness of the country, -might be supposed to take), that it gave a scale of eighty-three and a -third of such divisions to a degree of the meridian; a scale which, as I -have observed in a former chapter, is mentioned by Strabo, on the -authority of Eratosthenes, as one in use amongst the Romans. - -Now, by measuring off twenty-one such parts along the indented line of -coast from Malaga westward, to fix the situation of Suel, I find that, -according to this scale, it would be placed about a mile beyond the -Torre Blanca; that is, at the commencement of the fertile valley, which -has been mentioned as stretching some way inland, and at the bottom of -the bay, of which the rocky ledge occupied by the castle of Fuengirola -forms the western boundary; certainly a much more suitable site, either -for a commercial city, or for a fortress, than the low, rocky headland -of Fuengirola, which neither affords enough space for a town to stand -upon, nor is sufficiently elevated above the adjacent country, to have -the command that was usually sought for in building fortresses previous -to the invention of artillery. - -Proceeding onwards, and measuring twenty-four divisions (of this same -scale) from the point where I suppose Suel to have stood, along the yet -rugged coast to the westward of Fuengirola, the site of Cilniana, the -next station of the Itinerary, is fixed a little beyond where the town -of Marbella now stands; another most probable spot for the Phoenicians -or Romans to have selected for a station; as, in the first place, the -proximity of the high, impracticable, Sierra de Juanel, would have -enabled a fortress there situated to intercept most completely the -communication along the coast; and, in the second, the vicinity of a -fertile plain, and the valuable mines of Istan (from whence a fine -stream flows), would have rendered it a desirable site for a port. - -The next distance, thirty-four miles to Barbariana, brings me to the -_mouth_ of the Guadiaro, (which _can be_ no other than the Barbesula of -the Romans, if we suppose that the road continued, as heretofore, along -the seashore); or, carries me across that river, and also the -Sogarganta, which falls into it, if, striking inland, _as soon as the -nature of the country permitted_, we imagine the road to have been -directed by the straightest line to its point of destination. - -Now, in the first case, the discovery of numerous vestigia, and -inscriptions at a spot two miles up from the mouth, on the eastern bank -of the Barbesula, (i. e. Guadiaro) have clearly proved that to be the -position of the city[173] bearing the same name as the river. We must -not, therefore, look in its neighbourhood for Barbariana; especially as -the vestiges of this ancient town are twelve _English_ miles from -Carteia, whereas the distance from Barbariana to Carteia is stated in -the Itinerary to be but ten _Roman_ miles. - -In the second case, having crossed the Sogarganta about a mile above its -confluence with the Guadiaro, we arrive, at the end of the prescribed -thirty-four miles from Cilniana, at the mouth of a steep ravine by which -the existing road from Gaucin and Casares to San Roque ascends the -chain of hills forming the southern boundary of the valley, and this -spot is not only well calculated for a military station, but exceeds by -very little the distance of ten miles to Carteia, specified in the -Itinerary. - -I suppose, therefore, that Barbariana stood here, where it would have -been on the most direct line that a road _could take_ between Estepona -and Carteia, as well as on that which presented the fewest difficulties -to be surmounted in the nature of the country. - -I will now follow the Roman Itinerary as laid down by Mr. Carter, in his -"Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga."[174] - -The first station, Suel, he fixes at the Castle of Fuengirola; the -second, Cilniana, at the ruins of what he calls Old Estepona. These he -describes as lying _three leagues_ to the eastward of the modern town of -that name, and upwards of a league to the westward of the Torre de las -Bovedas, in the vicinity of which he assumes Salduba stood; but this -very site of Salduba (i. e. the Torre de las Bovedas) is little more -than _two leagues_ from modern Estepona, being just half way between -that place and Marbella--the distance from the one town to the other -scarcely exceeding four leagues, or sixteen English miles--so that, in -point of fact, he fixes Cilniana at _four miles_ to the eastward of -Estepona, instead of three leagues. - -Passing over this error, however, and allowing that his site of Cilniana -was where _he wished it to be_, Mr. Carter, nevertheless, still found -himself in a difficulty; for he had already far exceeded the greater -portion of the _actual_ distance between Malaga and Carteia, although -but half the number of miles specified in the Itinerary were disposed -of; so that twenty-five miles measured along the coast now brought him -within the prescribed distance of Barbariana from Carteia (ten miles), -instead of thirty-four, as stated in the Itinerary! - -To extricate himself, therefore, from this dilemma, he carries the road, -first to the town of Barbesula, situated near the mouth of the river of -the same name, and then _eight miles up the stream_ to Barbariana. - -The objections to this most eccentric route are, however, manifold and -obvious. In the first place, had the road visited Barbesula, that town -would assuredly have been noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, because -it would have made so much more convenient a break in the distance -between Cilniana and Carteia, than Barbariana. - -In the next,--had the road been taken to the mouth of the Guadiaro, it -would _there_ have been as near Carteia as from any other point along -the course of that river, with nothing in the nature of the intervening -country to prevent its being carried straight across it: every step, -therefore, that the road was taken up the stream would have -unnecessarily increased the distance to be travelled. - -Thirdly,--had Barbariana been situated _eight miles_[175] up the river, -the road from Barbesula must not only have been carried that distance -out of the way to visit it, but, for the greater part of the way, must -actually have been led back again towards the point of the compass -whence it had been brought; and the town of Barbariana would thereby -have been situated nearly eighteen miles from Calpe Carteia, instead of -ten. - -Mr. Carter probably fell into this error, through ignorance of the -direction whence the Guadiaro flows, for though the last four miles of -its course is easterly, yet its previous direction is due south, or -straight upon Gibraltar; and, consequently, taking the road up the -stream beyond the distance of _four miles_, would have been leading it -away from its destination. And if, on the other hand, we suppose that -Mr. Carter's mistake be simply in the name of the river, and that, by -two leagues up the Guadiaro, he meant up its tributary, the -Sogarganta;[176] still, so long as the road continued following the -course of that stream, it would get no nearer to Carteia, and was, -therefore, but uselessly increasing the distance. - -It is quite unreasonable, however, to suppose that the Romans, who were -in the habit of making their roads as straight as possible, should have -so unnecessarily departed from their rule in this instance, and not only -have increased the distance by so doing, but also the difficulties to be -encountered; for, in point of fact, a road would be more readily carried -to the Guadiaro by leaving the seashore on approaching Manilba, and -directing it straight upon Carteia, than by continuing it along the -rugged and indented coast that presents itself from thence to the mouth -of the river. - -Objections may be taken to the sites I have fixed upon for the different -towns mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, from the absence of all vestiges -at those particular spots; but when the ease with which all traces of -ancient places are lost is considered, particularly those situated on -the seashore, I think such objections must fall to the ground: and, -indeed, Carter himself, who found fault with Florez for supposing the -town of Salduba[177] _could_ have entirely disappeared, furnishes a -glaring instance of the futility of such objections, when he states that -not the least remains of Barbesula were to be traced, whereas, _now_, -they are quite visible. - -The castle of Fuengirola--to which it is time to return from this long -digression--has lately undergone a thorough repair; the whole of the -western front, indeed, has been rebuilt, and the rest of the walls have -been modernised, though they still continue to be badly flanked by small -projecting square towers, and are exposed to their very foundations, so -that the fortress _ought not_ to withstand even a couple of hours' -battering. - -From hence to Marbella is four leagues. During the first, the road is -bad enough, and, for the remaining three, but indifferently good. The -last eight miles of the stony track may, however, be avoided by riding -along the sandy beach, which, when the sun is on the decline, the breeze -light and westerly, and, above all, when the _tide is out_, is pleasant -enough. I may as well observe here, that the Mediterranean Sea really -does ebb and flow, notwithstanding anything others may have stated to -the contrary. - -The whole line of coast bristles with towers, built originally to give -intelligence by signal of the appearance of an enemy. They are of all -shapes and ages; some circular, having a Roman look; others angular, and -either Moorish, or built after Saracenic models; many are of -comparatively recent construction, though all seem equally to be going -to decay. - -These towers can be entered only by means of ladders, and such as are in -a habitable state are occupied by Custom-house guards, or, more -correctly, Custom-house defrauders. Here and there a _Casa fuerta_ has -been erected along the line, which, furnished with artillery and a small -garrison of regular troops, serves as a _point d'appui_ to a certain -portion of the _peculative_ cordon, enabling the soldiers to render -assistance to the revenue officers in bringing the smugglers to _terms_. - -Marbella has ever been a bone of contention amongst the antiquaries; -some asserting that it does not occupy the site of any ancient city; -others, that it is on the ruins of _Salduba_. Of this latter opinion is -La Martiniere, who certainly has better reason for maintaining than -Carter for disputing it. For if that city "stood on a steep headland, -between which and the hill" (behind) "not a beast could pass," it could -not possibly have been on the site where our countryman places it, viz., -at the ruins near the _Torre de las Bovedas_ (seven miles to the -westward), where a wide plain stretches inland upwards of two miles. - -In fact, there are but two headlands between the river Guadiaro and -Marbella, where a town could be built at all answering the foregoing -description; namely, at the _Torre de la Chullera_ and the _Torre del -Arroyo Vaquero_, the former only three, the latter ten miles from the -Guadiaro: and a far more likely spot than either of these is the knoll -occupied by the _Torre del Rio Real_, about two miles to the _eastward_ -of Marbella.[178] - -Marbella stands slightly elevated above the sea, and its turreted walls -and narrow streets declare it to be thoroughly Moorish. Its sea-wall is -not actually washed by the waves of the Mediterranean, so that the town -may be avoided by such as do not wish to be delayed by or subjected to -the nuisance of a passport scrutiny; and the Spanish saying, "_Marbella -es bella, pero no entras en ella_,"[179] significantly, though -mysteriously, suggests the prudence of staying outside its walls; but -this poetical scrap of advice was perhaps the only thing some luckless -_contrabandista_ had left to bestow upon his countrymen, and we, being -in search of a dinner and night's lodging, submitted patiently to the -forms and ceremonies prescribed on such occasions at the gates of a -fortress. - -To do the Spaniards justice, they are not usually very long in their -operations, the first offer being in most instances accepted without -haggling; and accordingly, the _peseta_ pocketed, and every thing -pronounced _corriente_, we proceeded without further obstruction to the -_Posada de la Corona_, which, situated in a fine airy square, we were -agreeably surprised to find a remarkably good inn. - -Marbella, though invested with the pomp and circumstance of war, is but -a contemptible fortress. An old Moorish castle, standing in the very -heart of the town, constitutes its chief strength; for, though its -circumvallation is complete and tolerably erect, considering its great -age, yet, from the inconsiderable height of the walls, and the -inefficient flanking fire that protects them, they could offer but -slight resistance to an enemy. - -A detached fort, that formerly covered the place from attack on the sea -side, and flanked the eastern front of the enceinte of the town, has -been razed to the ground, so that ships may now attack it almost with -impunity. - -The town is particularly clean and well inhabited, the fishing portion -of the population being located more conveniently for their occupation -in a large suburb on its eastern side. The fortress encloses several -large churches and religious houses, besides the citadel or Moorish -castle, so that within the walls the space left for streets is but -small; the inhabitants of the town itself cannot therefore be estimated -at more than five thousand, whilst those of the suburb may probably -amount to fifteen hundred. - -The trade of Marbella is but trifling; the fruit and vegetables grown in -its neighbourhood are, it is true, particularly fine, but the proximity -of the precipitous Sierra de Juanal limits cultivation to a very narrow -circuit round the walls of the town; and, on the other hand, the -valuable mines in the vicinity, which formerly secured Marbella a -prosperous trade, have for many years been totally abandoned: so that, -in fact, there is little else than fish to export. - -There is no harbour, but vessels find excellent holding ground and in -deep water, close to the shore; the landing also is good, being on a -fine hard sand, and I found a small pier in progress of construction. - -It seems probable that in remote times numerous commercial towns were -situated along the coast, between Malaca and Calpe, whence a thriving -trade was carried on with the East, for the whole chain of mountains -bordering the Mediterranean abounds in metallic ores, especially along -that part of the coast between Marbella and Estepona; and it is evident -that mining operations on an extensive scale were formerly carried on -here, since the tumuli formed by the earth excavated in searching for -the precious metals are yet to be seen, as well as the bleached -channels by which the water that penetrated into the mines was led down -the sides of the mountains. - -The metals contained in this range of mountains are, principally, -silver, copper, lead, and iron; of the two former I have seen some very -fine specimens. - -The richness and comparative proximity of these mines led the -Phoenicians and Romans, by whom there is no doubt they were worked, to -neglect the copper mines of Cornwall; for, whilst necessity obliged them -to come to England for tin, it is observable that in many places, where, -in working for that metal, they came also upon lodes of copper, they -carried away the tin only; a circumstance that has rendered some of the -recently worked Cornish copper mines singularly profitable, and leads -naturally to the supposition that the ancients procured copper at a less -expense from some other country. - -In the same way that the old Roman mines in England, from our knowledge -of the vast power of steam, and of the means of applying that power to -hydraulical purposes, have been reopened with great advantage, so also -might those of Spain be again worked with a certainty of success. -Capital and security--the two great wants of Spain--are required however -to enable adventurers to embark in the undertaking. - -Marbella is four leagues from Estepona, and ten from Gibraltar; but -though the first four may be reckoned at the usual rate of four miles -each, yet the remaining six cannot be calculated under four and a half -each, making the whole distance to Gibraltar forty-three miles, and from -Malaga to Gibraltar seventy-nine miles.[180] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - A PROVERB NOT TO BE LOST SIGHT OF WHILST TRAVELLING IN SPAIN--ROAD - TO MONDA--SECLUDED VALLEY OF OJEN--- MONDA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF THE ROMAN CITY OF MUNDA--IDEAS OF MR. CARTER - ON THE SUBJECT--REASONS ADDUCED FOR CONCLUDING THAT MODERN MONDA - OCCUPIES THE SITE OF THE ANCIENT CITY--ASSUMED POSITIONS OF THE - CONTENDING ARMIES OF CNEIUS POMPEY AND CAESAR, IN THE VICINITY OF - THE TOWN--ROAD TO MALAGA--TOWNS OF COIN AND ALHAURIN--BRIDGE OVER - THE GUADALJORCE--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR--NOTABLE INSTANCE OF THE - ABSURDITY OF QUARANTINE REGULATIONS. - - -"_Mas vale paxaro en mano, que buytre volando_"--_Anglice_, a bird in -the hand is worth more than a vulture flying--is a proverb that cannot -be too strongly impressed upon the minds of travellers in Spain; and, -acting up to the spirit of this wise saw, we did not leave our -comfortable quarters at the _Posada de la Corona_ until after having -made sure of a breakfast. For, deeming even a cup of milk at Marbella -worth more than a herd of goats up the sierra, there appeared yet more -reason to think that no venta on the unfrequented mountain track by -which we purposed returning to Malaga could furnish anything half so -estimable as the _cafe au lait_ promised overnight, and placed before us -soon after daybreak. - -We commenced ascending the steep side of the _Sierra de Juanal_ -immediately on leaving Marbella, and, in something under an hour, -reached a pass, on the summit of a ridge, whence a lovely view opens to -the north. The little town of Ojen lies far down below, embosomed in a -thicket of walnut, chesnut, and orange trees; whilst all around rise -lofty sierras, clothed, like the valley, with impervious woods, though -with foliage of a darker hue, their forest covering consisting -principally of cork and ilex. Numerous torrents, (whose foaming streams -can only occasionally be seen dashing from rock to rock amidst the dense -foliage) furrow the sides of the impending ridges, directing their -course towards the little village, threatening, seemingly, to overwhelm -it by their united strength; but, wasting their force against the -cragged knoll on which it stands, they collect in one body at its foot, -and, as if exhausted by the struggle, flow thenceforth tranquilly -towards the Mediterranean, meandering through rich vineyards, and under -verdant groves of arbutus, orange, and oleander. - -Excepting by this outlet, along the precipitous edge of which our road -was practised, there seemed to be no possibility of leaving the sylvan -valley, so completely is it hemmed in by wood and mountain. The descent -from the pass occupied nearly as much time as had been employed in -clambering up to it from the sea-coast, but the road is better. - -The situation of the little town, on the summit of a scarped rock, -clustered over with ivy and wild vines, and moistened by the spray of -the torrents that rush down on either side, is most romantic; the place, -however, is miserable in the extreme, containing some two hundred -wretched hovels, mostly mud-built, and huddled together as if for mutual -support. - -An ill-conditioned _pave_ zigzags up to it, and proceeds onwards along -the edge of a deep ravine towards Monda. The woods, rocks, and water -afford ever-varying and enchanting vistas, but, from the vile state of -the road, it is somewhat dangerous to pay much attention to the beauties -of nature. - -In something more than an hour from Ojen, we reached a pass in the -northern part of the mountain-belt that girts it in, whence we took a -last lingering look at the lovely valley, compared to which the country -now lying before us appeared tame and arid. - -The fall of the mountain on the western side is much more gradual than -towards the Mediterranean, and the road--which does not however improve -in due proportion--descends by an easy slope towards the little river -Seco. The valley, at first, is wide, open, and uncultivated; but, at the -end of about a mile, it contracts to an inconsiderable breadth, and the -steep hills that border it give signs of the husbandman's toils, being -every where planted with vines and olive trees. - -Arriving now at the margin of the _Seco_, the road crosses and recrosses -the rivulet repeatedly, in consequence of the rugged nature of its -banks, and, at length, quitting the pebbly bed of the stream, and -crossing over a lofty mountain ridge that overlooks it to the east, the -stony track brings us to Monda, which is nestled in a deep ravine on the -opposite side of the mountain, and commanded by an old castle situated -on a rocky knoll to the north-west. - -The view from the summit of this mountain is very extensive, embracing -the greater portion of the _Hoya_ de Malaga, the distant sea-bound city, -and yet more remote sierras of Antequera, Alhama, and Granada. The -descent to Monda is extremely bad, though by no means rapid. The -distance of this place from Marbella is stated in the Spanish -Itineraries to be three leagues, but the incessant windings of the road -make it fourteen miles, at least. The houses of Monda are mostly poor, -though some of the streets are wide and good. The population is -estimated at 2,000 souls. - -It is to this day a mooted question amongst Spanish antiquaries whether -Monda, or Ronda _la Vieja_, (as some of them call the ruins of -Acinippo), or any other of several supposed places, be the Roman -_Munda_, where Cneius Scipio gave battle to the Carthaginian generals, -Mago and Asdrubal, B.C. 211, and near whose walls Julius Caesar concluded -his wonderful career of victory by the defeat of Cneius Pompey the -younger, B.C. 42. - -From this discrepancy of opinion, and the inaccuracy of the Spanish -maps, I am induced to offer the following observations (the result of a -careful examination of the country), touching the site of this once -celebrated spot. And, first, with respect to Ronda and Ronda _la Vieja_, -I may repeat what I have already stated in a former chapter, that -neither the situation of those places, nor the nature of the ground in -their vicinity, agrees in any one respect with the description of Munda -and its battle-field, as given by Hirtius;[181] nor, from discoveries -that have recently been made, does there appear to be any ground left -for doubting that those places occupy the sites of Arunda and Acinippo. - -Of the other positions which have been assigned to _Munda_, that most -insisted upon is a spot "three leagues to the _west_ of the present town -of Monda,"[182] and here Carter, adopting the opinion of Don Diego -Mendoza, confidently places it, stating that bones of men and horses -had, in former days, been dug up there; that the peasants called the -spot _Monda la Vieja_, and averred they sometimes saw squadrons of -apparitions fighting in the air with cries and shouts! - -Such a host of circumstantial and phantasmagorical evidence our -countryman considered irresistible, and concluded, accordingly, that -this spot could be no other than that whereon the two mighty Roman -armies contended for empire. He admits, however, that, even in the days -of his precursor, Don Diego, "scarcely any ruins were to be found, the -_whole_ having by degrees been transplanted to modern Monda and other -places." Why they should have been carried three leagues across some of -the loftiest mountains in the country, to be used merely as building -stones, he does not attempt to explain, but, believing such to be the -case, one wonders it never struck him as being somewhat extraordinary -that these pugnacious ghosts should continue fighting for a town of -which not a stone remains. - -But, leaving Mr. Carter for the present, I will retrace my steps to -modern Monda, where it must be acknowledged some little difficulty is -experienced in fitting the Roman city to the spot allotted to it on the -maps, as well as in placing the contending armies upon the ground in its -neighbourhood, so as to agree with the order in which they were arrayed -on the authority of Hirtius. Still, with certain admissions, which -admissions I do not consider it by any means unreasonable to beg, all -apparent discrepancies may be reconciled and difficulties overcome; and, -on the other hand, unless these points be granted, Ronda, Gaucin, or -Gibraltar agree just as well with the Munda of the Roman historian as -the little town of Monda I am about to describe. - -It will be necessary, however, for the perfect understanding of the -subject,--and, I trust, my endeavour to establish the site of Caesar's -last battle-field will be considered one of sufficient interest to -warrant a little prolixity,--to take a glance at the country in the -vicinity of Monda, ere proceeding to describe the actual ground whereon, -according to my idea, the contending armies were drawn up; as it is only -from a knowledge of the country, and of the communications that -intersected it, that the reasons can be gathered for such a spot having -been selected for a field of battle. - -The old castle of Monda, under the walls of which we must suppose--for -this is one of the premised admissions--the town to have been clustered, -instead of being, as at present, sunk in a ravine, stands on the eastern -side of a rocky ridge, projected in a northerly direction from the lofty -and wide-spreading mountain-range, that borders the Mediterranean -between Malaga and Estepona. This range is itself a ramification of the -great mountain-chain that encircles the basin of Ronda, from which it -branches off in a southerly direction, and under the names of Sierras of -Tolox, Blanca, Arboto, and Juanal, presents an almost impassable barrier -between the valley of the Rio Verde (which falls into the Mediterranean, -three miles west of Marbella), and the fertile plains bordering the -Guadaljorce. - -This steep and difficult ridge terminates precipitously about Marbella; -but another branch of the range, sweeping round the little town of Ojen, -turns back for some miles to the north, rises in two lofty peaks above -Monda, and then, taking an easterly direction, juts into the -Mediterranean at Torre Molinos. The towns of Coin and Alhaurin are -situated, like Monda, on rocky projections from the north side of this -range, overhanging the vale of Malaga; and the solitary town of Mijas -stands upon its southern acclivity, looking towards the sea. - -The rugged ramification on which Monda is situated stretches north about -two miles from the double-peaked sierra above mentioned; and though -completely overlooked by that mountain, yet, in every other direction, -it commands all the ground in its immediate neighbourhood, and, without -being very elevated, is every where steep, and difficult of access. The -summit of the ridge is indented by various rounded eminences, and, -consequently, is of very unequal breadth, as well as height. The castle -of Monda stands on one of these knolls, but quite on the eastern side of -the hill, the breadth of which, in this place, scarcely exceeds 400 -yards. At its furthest extremity, however, the ridge, which extends -northward, _nearly a mile_, beyond the town, sends out a spur to the -east, following the course of, and falling abruptly to the Rio Seco; and -the breadth of the hill may here be said to be increased to nearly two -miles. - -Between the river Seco and the Rio Grande (a more considerable stream, -which runs nearly parallel to, and about seven miles from the Seco), the -country, though rudely moulded, is by no means lofty; but round the -sources of the latter river, and along its left bank, rise the huge -sierras of Junquera, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, closing the view from -Monda to the north. - -From the description here given it will be apparent, that the -communications across so mountainous a country must not only be few, but -very bad. Such, indeed, is the asperity of the sierras west of Monda, -that no road whatever leads through them; and, to the south, but one -tolerable road presents itself to cross the lateral ridge, bordering the -Mediterranean, between Marbella and Torre Molinos, viz., that by which -we had traversed it. - -Even on the other half circle round Monda, where the country is of a -more practicable nature, only two roads afford the means of access to -that town, viz., one from Guaro, where the different routes from Ronda -(by Junquera), El Burgo, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, unite; the other -from Coin, upon which place, from an equal necessity, those from Alora, -Antequera, and Malaga, are first directed. - -Monda thus becomes the point of concentration of all the roads -proceeding from the inland towns to Marbella; the pass of Ojen, in its -rear, offering the only passage through the mountains to reach that -city. - -The road from this pass, as has already been described, approaches Monda -by the valley watered by the river Seco; which stream, directed in the -early part of its course by the Sierra de Monda on its right, flows -nearly due north for about a mile and a half beyond where the road to -Monda leaves its bank, receiving in its progress several tributary -streams that rise in the mountains on its left. On gaining the northern -extremity of the ridge of Monda, the rivulet winds round to the -eastward, still washing the base of that mountain, but leaving the hilly -country on its left bank, along which a plain thenceforth stretches for -several miles. The stream again, however, becomes entangled in some -broken and intricate country, ere reaching the wide plain of the -Guadaljorce, into which river it finally empties itself. - -The situation of Monda, with reference to the surrounding country, -having now been fully described, it is necessary, ere proceeding to shew -that the ground in its neighbourhood answers perfectly the account given -of it by Hirtius, to offer some remarks on the causes that may be -supposed to have led to a collision between the hostile Roman armies on -such a spot, since the present unimportant position of Monda seems to -render such an event very improbable. - -Caesar, it would appear, after the fall of Ategua, proceeded to lay siege -to Ventisponte and Carruca--two places, whose positions have baffled the -researches of the most learned antiquaries to determine--his object, -evidently, having been to induce Pompey to come to their relief. His -adversary, however, was neither to be forced nor tempted to depart from -his politic plan of "drawing the war out into length;" but, retiring -into the mountains, compelled Caesar, whose interest it was, on the other -hand, to bring the contest to as speedy an issue as possible, to follow -him into a more defensible country. - -With this view, leaving the wide plain watered by the Genil and -Guadaljorce on the northern side of the mountains, Pompey, we may -imagine, retired towards the Mediterranean, and stationed himself at -Monda; a post that not only afforded him a formidable defensive -position, but that gave him the means of resuming hostilities at -pleasure, since it commanded the roads from Cartama to Hispalis -(Seville), by way of Ronda, and from Malaca, along the Mediterranean -shore, to Carteia,[183] where his fleet lay; and, should his adversary -not follow him, the situation thus fixed upon was admirably adapted for -carrying the war into the country in arms against him, the two opulent -cities of Cartama and Malaca (which there is every reason to conclude -were attached to the cause of Caesar), being within a day's march of -Monda. - -Here, therefore, Pompey occupied a strategical point of great -importance; and Caesar, fully aware of the advantage its possession gave -his opponent, determined to attack him at all risks. - -The hostile armies were separated from each other by a plain five miles -in extent.[184] That of Caesar was drawn up in this plain, his cavalry -posted on the left; whilst the army of Pompey, whose cavalry was -stationed on _both_ wings, occupied a strong position on a range of -mountains, protected on one side by the town of Munda, "_situated on an -eminence_;" on the other, by the nature of the ground, "_for across this -valley_" (i.e. that divided the two armies), "_ran a rivulet, which -rendered the approach to the mountain extremely difficult, because it -formed a morass on the right_." - -Now although the town of Munda is here described as protecting Pompey's -army on one side, yet from what follows it must be inferred that it was -some distance in the rear of his position, since, not only is it stated -that "_Pompey's army was at length obliged to give ground and retire -towards the town_," but it may be taken for granted that, had either -flank rested upon the town, the cavalry would _not_ have been posted on -"_both wings_." - -Moreover, it is stated that "_Caesar made no doubt but that the enemy -would descend to the plain and come to battle_," the superiority of -cavalry being greatly on Pompey's side--"_but_," Hirtius proceeds to -say, "_they durst not advance a mile from the town_," and, in spite of -the advantageous opportunity offered them, "_still kept their post on -the mountain in the neighbourhood of the town_." - -It may therefore be fairly concluded, that Pompey's position was on the -edge of a range of hills, some little distance in advance of the town of -Munda, having a stream running in a deep valley along its front, and a -morass on one flank. Now the question is, Can the ground about Monda be -made to agree with these various premises? Certainly not, if, as is -generally assumed, the battle was fought on the eastern side of the -town; for Pompey's position must, in that case, have extended along the -ridge, so as to have the peaked Sierra, above Monda, on its right, and -the river Seco on its left, whilst Monda itself would have been an -advanced post of the line; and so far from there being a plain "_five -miles_" in extent in front, the country to the east of Monda--though for -some way but slightly marked--is, at the distance of _two_ miles, so -abruptly broken as to render the drawing up of a Roman army impossible. - -In addition to these objections it will be obvious that the half of -Pompey's cavalry on the right, would have been posted on a high -mountain, where it could not possibly act, whilst the whole of Caesar's -(on his left), would have been paralyzed by having to manoeuvre on the -acclivity of a steep mountain and against a fortified town, instead of -being kept in the valley of the river Seco, ready to fall upon the weak -part of the enemy's line as soon as it should be broken. - -What, however, seems to me to be fatal to the supposition that this was -the side of the town on which the battle was fought is, that Caesar's -army would have occupied the road by which alone the small portion of -Pompey's army, that escaped, could have retired upon Cordoba. - -Against the supposition that the battle took place on the _western_ side -of the ridge on which Monda is situated, the objections, though not so -numerous, are equally insurmountable; since there is nothing like a -plain whereon Caesar's army could have been drawn up; the valley of the -river Seco being so circumscribed that, for Pompey's army to have -"_advanced a mile from Monda_," it must not only have crossed the -stream, but mounted the rough hills that there border its left bank; -whereas Caesar's army is stated to have been posted in a plain that -extended five miles from Monda. The half of Pompey's cavalry on the -_left_ would, in this case also, have been uselessly posted on an -eminence. In other respects the supposition is admissible enough, since -Monda would have been in the rear of the left of Pompey's position, but -still a support to the line, and the whole front would have been -"_difficult of approach_," and along the course of a rivulet. - -We will now examine the ground to the north of the town, to which it -strikes me no insuperable objections can be raised. - -We may suppose that Pompey took post with his army fronting Toloz and -Guaro, the only direction in which his enemy could be looked for, and -where the ground is so little broken, as certainly to allow of its being -called _a plain_, as compared with the rugged country that encompasses -it on all sides; and his position would naturally have been taken up -along the edge of the last ramification of the ridge of Monda, which -extends about two miles from west to east along the right bank of the -river Seco. - -The town would then have been half a mile or so _in rear_ of the left -centre of Pompey's position; _a rivulet_, "_rendering the approach of -the mountain difficult_," would have run along its front. His cavalry -would naturally have been disposed on _both flanks_, where, the hills -terminating, it would be most at hand either to act offensively, or for -the security of the position; and the cavalry of Caesar, on the contrary, -would _all_ have been posted on _his_ left, where the access to Pompey's -position was easiest, and where, in case of his enemy's defeat, its -presence would have produced the most important results. - -We may readily conceive, also, that in times past _a morass_ bordered -the Seco where it first enters the plain, since several mountain streams -there join it, whose previously rapid currents must have experienced a -check on reaching this more level country. The industrious Moslems, -probably, by bringing this fertile plain into cultivation, drained the -morass so that no traces of it are now perceptible, but twenty years -hence there may possibly be another. - -Every condition required, therefore, to make the ground agree with the -description given of it by Hirtius, is here fulfilled; and, occupying -such a position, the army of Pompey seemed likely to obtain the ends -which we cannot but suppose its general had in view. - -The objections of Mr. Carter to modern Monda being the site of the Roman -city are, first, the want of space in its vicinity for two such vast -hosts to be drawn up in battle array; and, secondly, the little distance -of the existing town from the river Sigila and city of Cartama, which, -according to an ancient inscription, referring to the repairs of a road -from Munda to Cartama, he states was twenty miles. - -In consequence of these imaginary discrepancies, he suffered himself to -be persuaded that the spot where the apparitions are fighting "three -leagues to the westward of the modern town," is the site of the Roman -_Munda_. In which case it must have been situated in a _narrow valley_, -bounded on all sides by lofty mountains, and _twenty-eight_ Roman miles, -at least, from the city of Cartama! - -With respect to his first objections, however, it may be observed, that -the _want of space_ can only apply to the army posted on the mountain, -for, on the level country between its base and the village of Guaro, an -army of any amount might be drawn up. And as regards the mountain, as I -have already stated, its north front offers a strong position, nearly -two miles in extent, and one in depth. Now, considering the compact -order in which Roman armies were formed; the number of lines in which -they were in the habit of being drawn up; and making due allowance for -exaggeration[185] in the number of the contending hosts; such a space, I -should say, was more than sufficient for Pompey's army. - -In reply to the second objection urged by Mr. Carter, I may, in the -first place, observe, that the inscription whereon it is grounded-- - - * * * * * - - A MVNDA ET FLVVIO SIGILA - AD CERTIMAM VSQVE XX M.P.P.S. RESTITVIT.[186]-- - -seems to have no reference to the actual distance between Munda and -Cartama, since, by attaching any such meaning to it--coupled as Munda -is with the river Sigila--the inscription, to one acquainted with the -country, becomes quite unintelligible. - -Thus, if translated: "From Munda and the river Sigila, he (i. e. the -Emperor Hadrian) restored the twenty miles of road to Cartama," any one -would naturally conclude that Munda was upon the Sigila, and Cartama at -a distance of twenty miles from it; whereas, whatever may have been the -situation of Munda, Cartama certainly stood upon the very bank of the -river. - -It must, therefore, either have been intended to imply that the Emperor -restored twenty miles of a road which from Munda and the sources,[187] -or upper part of the course of the Sigila, led to Cartama, and various -traces of such a Roman road exist to this day on the road to Ronda by -Junquera; or, that the road from Munda was conducted along part of the -course of the Sigila ere it reached Cartama: and such, from the nature -of the ground, undoubtedly was the case, since Cartama stood at the -eastern foot of a steep mountain, the northern extremity of which must -(in military parlance) have been turned, to reach it from Monda, and the -road, in making this detour, would first reach the river Guadaljorce, or -Sigila. - -In this case it must be admitted that the _twenty miles_ refer to the -actual distance between the two towns, and this tends only more firmly -to establish modern Monda on the site of the Roman town, since the -distance from thence to Cartama, measured with _a pair of compasses_ on -a _correct_ map,[188] is fourteen English miles, which are equal to -fifteen Roman of seventy-five to a degree, or seventeen of eighty-three -and one third to a degree; and considering the hilly nature of the -country which the road must unavoidably have traversed, the distance -would have been fully increased to twenty miles, either by the ascents -and descents if carried in a straight line from place to place, or by -describing a very circuitous course if taken along the valley of the Rio -Seco. - -Carter further remarked upon the foregoing inscription that "it seems to -place" Munda to the _west_ of the river Sigila, which ran _between_ that -town and Cartama; but this, he said, does not agree with the situation -of modern Monda, which is on the same side the river as Cartama. - -I suppose for _west_ he meant to say _east_, but, in either case, his -assumed site for Munda, "three leagues to the west of the present town," -is open to this very same objection, and to the yet graver one, of -being--even allowing that he meant English leagues--_twenty-three -English miles_ in a _direct_ line from the town of Cartama, and in a -contracted and secluded valley, to the possession of which, no military -importance could possibly have been attached. - -On the whole, therefore, I see no reason to doubt what, for so many -years was looked upon as certain, viz., that the modern town of Monda is -on the site of the ancient city. I must nevertheless own that in -following strictly the text of Hirtius, an objection presents itself to -this spot with reference to the relative position of Ursao; that is, if -Osuna be Ursao; since, in allusion to Pompey's resolve to receive battle -at Munda, he says that Ursao "served as a sure resource _behind_ -him."[189] - -This objection holds equally good with the position Carter assigns to -Munda; but that there is some error respecting Ursao is evident, for, if -Osuna be Ursao, then Hirtius described it most incorrectly by saying it -was exceedingly strong by nature, and eight miles distant from any -rivulet.[190] And, on the other hand, it is clear that Ursao did _not_ -serve as a _sure_ resource to Pompey, since no part of his defeated army -found refuge there. - -We must read this passage, therefore, as implying rather that Pompey -_calculated_ on Orsao as a place of refuge, but that, by the able -manoeuvres of his adversary, he was cut off from it. Now a town -placed high up in the mountains like Alozaina, or Junquera, and like -them distant from any stream but that which rises within their walls, -answers the description of Orsao, much better than Osuna;[191] and, -supposing one of these, or any other town in the vicinity, similarly -situated, to have been Orsao, Pompey might have flattered himself that -he could fall back upon it in the event of being defeated at Monda. -Caesar, however, by moving along the valley of the Seco, and, taking post -in the plain to the north of Pompey's position, effectually deprived him -of this resource. - -The modern town of Monda contains numerous fragments of monuments, -inscriptions, &c., which, though none of them actually prove it to be on -the site of the ancient place of the same name, satisfactorily shew that -it stands near some old Roman town, and that, therefore, to call it -_new_ Monda, in contradistinction to _Monda la vieja_, is absurd. - -The road to Coin traverses a succession of tongues, which, protruding -from the side of the steep Sierra de Monda on the right, fall gradually -towards the Rio Seco, which flows about a mile off on the left. For the -first three miles the undulations are very gentle, and the face of the -country is covered with corn, but, on arriving at the Peyrela, a rapid -stream that rushes down from the mountains in a deep rocky gully, the -ground becomes much more broken, and the hills on both sides are thickly -wooded. The road, nevertheless, continues very good, and in about two -miles more reaches Coin. - -The approach to this town is very beautiful. It is situated some way up -the northern acclivity of a high wooded hill, and commands a splendid -view of the valley of the Guadaljorce. - -Coin is supposed to be of Moorish origin, and, from the amenity of its -situation, abundance of crystal springs and fruitfulness of its -orchards, was, no doubt, a favourite place of retreat with the turbaned -conquerors of Spain. Nor are its merits altogether lost upon the present -less contemplative race of inhabitants, for they flee to its pure -atmosphere whenever any endemic disease frightens them from the close -and crowded streets of filthy Malaga. - -During the last few years that the divided Moslems yet endeavoured to -struggle against the fate that too clearly awaited them, the fields of -Coin were doomed to repeated devastations, though the city itself still -set the Christian hosts at defiance; but at length the artillery of -Ferdinand and Isabella reduced it to submission, A.D. 1485. - -The population of Coin is estimated by the Spanish authorities at 9000 -souls, but I should say it is considerably less. The houses are good, -streets well paved, and the place altogether is clean and wholesome. - -The posada, except in outward appearance, is not in keeping with the -town. It is a large white-washed building, with great pretensions and -small comfort. We left it at daybreak without the least regret, carrying -our breakfast with us to enjoy _al fresco_. - -At the foot of the hill two roads to Malaga offer themselves, one by way -of Cartama (distant ten miles), which turns the Sierra Gibalgalia to the -north, the other by Alhaurin, which crosses the neck of land connecting -that mountain with the more lofty sierras to the south. The distance is -pretty nearly the same by both, and is reckoned five leagues, but the -_leguas_ are any thing but _regulares_, and may be taken at an average -of four miles and a half each. The first named is a carriage road, and -the country flat nearly all the way; we therefore chose the latter, as -likely to be more picturesque. - -In about an hour from Coin, we reached a clear stream, which, confined -in a deep gulley, singularly scooped out of the solid rock, winds round -at the back of Alhaurin, and tumbles over a precipice on the side of the -impending mountain. The crystal clearness of the water and beauty of -the spot, tempted us to halt and spread the contents of our alforjas on -the green bank of the rivulet, though the white houses of Alhaurin, -situated immediately above, peeped out from amidst trelissed vines and -perfumed orange groves, seeming to beckon us on. But appearances are -proverbially deceitful all over the world, and more especially in -Spanish towns, as we had recently experienced at Coin. - -Our repast finished, we remounted our horses, and ascended the steep -acclivity, on the lap of which the town stands. The environs are -beautifully wooded, and the place contains many tasteful houses and -gardens, wide, clean, and well-paved streets, abundance of refreshing -fountains, and groves of orange and other fruit trees, and, in fact, is -a most delightful place of abode. The view from it is yet finer than -from Coin, embracing, besides the fine chain of wooded sierras above -Alozaina and Casarabonela, the lower portion of the vale of Malaga, and -the splendid mountains that stretch into the Mediterranean beyond that -city. Nevertheless, in spite of these advantages, the scared -_Malaguenos_ consider Coin a more secure retreat from the dreaded yellow -fever than Alhaurin, perhaps because from the former even the view of -their abandoned city is intercepted. - -Alhaurin contains, probably, 5000 inhabitants. The road from thence to -Malaga is _carriageable_ throughout. It winds along the side of the -mountain, continuing nearly on a dead level from the town to the summit -of the pass that connects the Sierra Gibalgalia with the mountains of -Mijas; thence it descends gradually, by a long and rather confined -ravine, into the vale of Malaga. - -Arrived in the plain, it leaves the little village of Alhaurinejo about -half a mile off on the right, and at thirteen miles from Alhaurin -reaches a bridge over the Guadaljorce. This bridge, commenced on a -magnificent scale by one of the bishops of Malaga, was to have been -built entirely of stone; but, before the work was half completed, either -the worthy dignitary of the church came to the last of his days, or to -the bottom of his purse, and it is left to be completed, "_con el -tiempo_"--a very celebrated Spanish bridge-maker. - -Forty-four solid stone piers remain, however, to bear witness to the -good and liberal intentions of the bishop; and the weight of a rotten -wooden platform, which has since been laid down, to afford a passage -across the stream when swollen by the winter torrents, for at most other -times it is fordable. - -A road to the Retiro and Churriana continues down the right bank of the -river; but that to Malaga crosses the bridge, and on gaining the left -bank of the river is joined by the roads from Casarabonda and Cartama. -From hence to Malaga is about five miles. - -On arriving at Malaga we found the dread of cholera had attained such a -height during our short absence, that the _Xebeque_, for Ceuta, had -sailed, whilst clean bills of health were yet issued. We also thought it -advisable to save our passports from being tainted, and, without further -loss of time, departed for Gibraltar by land. Our haste, however, booted -us but little; for, amongst the absurdities of quarantine be it -recorded, on reaching the British fortress, on the morning of the third -day from Malaga, admittance was refused, until we had undergone a three -days' purification at San Roque. Thither we repaired, therefore; and -there we remained during the prescribed period, shaking hands daily with -our friends from the garrison, until the dreaded _virus_ was supposed to -have parted with all its infectious properties. Our _decorated_ -attendant had left us on reaching Malaga, promising to take the earliest -opportunity of acquainting us with the result of an ordeal, to which the -little blind God, in one of his most capricious moods, had been pleased -to subject two of his votaries. - -The circumstances attending this trial of _true love_, will be found -related in the following chapter, which contains also a sketch of the -previous history of the hero of the tale, the knight of San Fernando. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -THE KNIGHT OF SAN FERNANDO. - - -_Don Fernando Septimo, por la gracia de Dios, rey de Castilla, de Leon, -de Aragon, de las dos Sicilias, de Jerusalem, de Navarra, de Granada, de -Toledo, de Valencia, de Galicia, de Mallorca, de Sevilla, de Cerdena, de -Cordoba, de Corcega, de Murcia, de Jaen, de los Algarbes, de Algeciras, -de Gibraltar, de las islas de Canaria, de las Indias Orientales y -Occidentales, islas y tierra ferme del Mar Oceano; archiduque de -Austria; duque de Borgona, de Brabante y de Milan; conde de Absparg, -Flandes, Tirol y Barcelona; senor de Viscaya y de Molina,[192] &c._ - -Such was the heading of the document which conferred the honour of -knighthood (silver cross of the first class of the royal and military -order of St. Ferdinand), upon _Don_ Antonio Conde, a soldier of the -light company (cazadores) of the Queen's, or second regiment of the -line, in acknowledgment of his distinguished services against the -_revolutionarios_ of the _isla de Leon_, who surrendered at Bejer on the -8th March, 1831. - -The bearer of this _certificate_ of gallant conduct--for the -gratification that its possession afforded his vanity was the only sense -in which it could be considered a _reward_--was in person rather below -the usual stature of the Andalusian peasantry; but his square shoulders, -open chest, and muscular limbs, bespoke him to be possessed of more than -their wonted strength and activity. - -In other respects too he differed somewhat from his countrymen, his hair -being light, even lighter than what they call _castanos_, or chestnut, -his chin beardless, and his eyes hazel. His manners were those of a -frank young soldier, rather, perhaps, of the French school, with a dash -of the _beau garcon_ about him, but, on the whole, very prepossessing. -In his carriage to us, though rather inquisitive, he was at all times -respectful; but towards his fellow countrymen, not of _the cloth_, a -certain hauteur was observable in his deportment, which clearly showed -that he prided himself on the "_Don_." - -The document, encased with the brevet of knighthood, of which mention -has before been made, briefly, but in very honourable terms, described -the gallant conduct of the young soldier, and forms the groundwork of -the following _memoir_; a circumstance I feel called upon to mention, -lest my hero should be wrongfully accused of vain-gloriously boasting of -his achievements; and this also will explain why his story is not, -throughout, told in the first person. - -The secluded little village of Guarda, which has been noticed in the -course of my peregrinations, as lying to the right of the high road from -Jaen to Granada (about five miles from the former city), was the -birth-place of Antonio Conde. His parents, though in a humble station of -life, were of _sangre limpio_;[193] and never having heard of Malthus, -had married early, and most unphilosophically added a family of seven -human beings to the already overstocked population of this -wisdom-getting world. - -Five of these unfortunate mortals were daughters, and our hero was the -younger of the two masculine lumps of animated clay. His brother, who -was many years his senior, had joined the army at an early age, and at -the conclusion of the war had proceeded with his regiment to the -Habana, where he still remained; their parents, therefore, now declining -in years, were anxious to keep their remaining son at home, to assist in -supporting the family. Such, however, was not to be the case, for, on -the _quintos_ being called out in 1830, it fell to Antonio's lot to be -one of the quota furnished by the district that included his native -village. - -To purchase a substitute was out of the question--the price was quite -beyond his parents' means; and though his brother had, at various times, -transmitted money home, which, with praiseworthy foresight, had been -hoarded up to make some little provision for his sisters, but was now -urgently offered to buy him off, yet Antonio would not listen to its -being so applied. To confess the truth, indeed, he secretly rejoiced at -his lot, having always wished to be a soldier, though he could never -bring himself voluntarily to quit his aged parents. Now, he maintained, -there was no alternative; and accordingly, with the brilliant prospect -of making a fortune, which the military life opened to him, he marched -from his native village, and joined the Queen's regiment, then quartered -at Seville, to the cazador company of which he was shortly afterwards -posted. - -Antonio's zeal, and assiduous attention to his duties, as well as his -general good conduct and intelligence, made him a great favourite with -his officers; whilst his youth, good humour, and gay disposition, -endeared him equally to his comrades, in whose amusements he generally -took the lead. In fact, he soon became the pattern man of the pattern -company, and attained the rank of corporal. - -Early in the month of March, 1831, the Queen's regiment received orders -to proceed by forced marches to Cadiz, where the _soi-disant_ -"liberals," having again raised the standard of revolt, commenced the -work of regeneration by murdering the governor of the city in the -streets at noon day. The cold-blooded, calculating miscreants, who -committed this act, excused themselves for the premeditated murder of a -man _universally_ beloved and respected, by saying it was necessary for -the success of their plans to commence with a blow that should strike -terror into the hearts of their opponents. They killed, therefore, the -most virtuous man they could select, to show that no one would be spared -who thenceforth ventured to entertain a doubt, that the constitution -they upheld was the _beau ideal_ of liberal government; and, I regret to -say, Englishmen were found who applauded this atrocious doctrine, and -considered the subsequent punishment inflicted on Torrijos, and the -other abettors and instigators of this barbarity, as an act of -unprecedented cruelty on the part of the "tyrant Ferdinand" and his -"_servile_" ministers. - -Antonio's regiment proceeded to the scene of revolt by way of Utrera and -Xeres, and on reaching Puerto Santa Maria received orders to continue -its march round the head of the bay of Cadiz, and occupy, without delay, -the Puente Zuazo, with the view of confining the rebels to the isla de -Leon, their attempt to gain possession of Cadiz having failed, through -the loyalty and firmness of the troops composing its garrison. - -The rebels, however, effected their escape, ere the Queen's regiment -reached its destined position, and had marched to Chiclana, in the hope -of being there joined by another band of "_facciosos_," under an -ex-officer, named Torrijos; which, long collected in the bay, and -protected by the guns of Gibraltar, was to have effected a landing on -the coast to the westward of Tarifa, and marched thence to support the -ruffians of the isla. - -The royal troops were instantly sent in pursuit of the rebels, who, -abandoning Chiclana, fell back successively upon Conil and Vejer. The -strength of the position of this latter town induced them to make a -stand, and await the momentarily expected reinforcement under Torrijos; -and the King's troops having assembled in considerable force at the foot -of the mountain, determined on attempting to dislodge them from the -formidable post, ere they received this accession of strength; a sharp -conflict was the consequence, which terminated in the royalists being -repulsed with severe loss. - -Antonio, who was well acquainted with the ground, now respectfully -hinted to the captain of his company, that the retreat of the rebels -might be effectually cut off by taking possession of the bridge over the -Barbate, which--all the boats on the river having been destroyed--alone -offered the rebels the means of reaching Tarifa, or Torrijos that of -coming to the assistance of the blockaded town. - -The captain communicated our hero's plans to the commander of the -expedition, who immediately adopted it, wisely abstaining from wasting -further blood to obtain a result by force, which starvation, sooner or -later, would be sure to bring about. - -In pursuance, therefore, of Antonio's project, the Queen's regiment -received orders to take possession of the bridge, and the _cazador_ -company was pushed on with all speed, to facilitate the execution of -this rather difficult operation. - -The bridge, as I have described in a former chapter, is situated -immediately under the lofty precipitous cliff whereon the town of Vejer -is perched, and the road to it is conducted, for nearly half a mile, -along a narrow strip of level ground, between the bank of the Barbate -and the foot of the precipice. - -In their advance, therefore, the _cazadores_ were exposed to a most -destructive shower of bullets, stones, &c. from above, and, of the whole -company, only Corporal Conde, and seven of his comrades, made good their -way, and threw themselves into the venta; which stands on the right bank -of the stream, close to the bridge. They instantly opened a fire from -the windows of the inn upon the rebels in the town overhead, who, at -first, returned it with interest; but after some time Antonio was -beginning to flatter himself, from the slackening of their fusillade, -that he was making their post too hot for them, when, looking round, he -perceived the whole force of the _facciosos_ descending from the town in -one long column, by the road which winds down to the bridge, round the -eastern face of the mountain, their intention evidently being to force a -passage _a todo precio_.[194] - -Antonio's comrades were daunted; they had no officer with them; there -was no appearance of support being at hand; and the odds against them -were fearful. Prudence suggested, therefore, that they should shut -themselves up in the venta, and let the enemy pass. - -Our hero, however, saw how much depended on the decision of that moment. -If the rebels succeeded in crossing the bridge, nothing could prevent -their forming a junction with the band of Torrijos, and in that case the -country might, for many months, be subjected to their outrages and -rapine, and Gibraltar would afford them a sure retreat; he determined, -therefore, to make an effort to intimidate them, and knowing the weight -his example would have upon his comrades, rushed out of the venta, -calling upon them to follow; and taking post behind some old walls, that -formed, as it were, a kind of _tete de pont_, opened a brisk fire upon -the advancing column of the enemy. - -The boldness of the manoeuvre intimidated the rebels, who, thinking -that this handful of men must be supported by a considerable force, -hesitated, halted for further orders, and, finally, threw out a line of -skirmishers to cover their movements, between whom and Antonio's party a -sharp fire was kept up for several minutes. - -In this skirmish one of Antonio's companions was killed, another fell -badly wounded by his side, and he himself received a wound in his head, -which, but that the ball had previously passed through the top of his -chako, would, probably, have been fatal. - -The rebels, discovering at length that the small force opposed to them -was altogether without support, again formed in column of attack to -force the bridge. The word "forward" was given, and Antonio feared that -his devotion would prove of no avail, when, at the critical moment, the -remainder of his company advanced from behind the venta at the _pas de -charge_, rending the air with loud cries of "_Viva el Rey_," and opening -a fire which took the enemy in flank. - -The rebels saw that the golden opportunity had been missed, and, seized -with a panic, retired hastily to their stronghold, closely pressed by -the _cazadores_, who hoped to enter the town pele mele with them. - -The commander of the king's troops, who had galloped to the spot where -he heard firing, determined, however, to adhere to the plan of reducing -the rebels to starvation; which now, by Antonio's gallantry, he was -certain of eventually effecting; and ordered, therefore, the recall to -be sounded as soon as he saw the enemy had regained the town. -Unfortunately for our hero, who, attended by a single comrade, was at -the extreme left of the extended line of skirmishers, and had taken -advantage of one of the deep gullies that furrow the side of the -mountain to advance unobserved on the enemy; he neither heard the signal -to retire, nor saw his companions fall back; continuing, therefore, to -advance, it was only on gaining the head of the ravine that he suddenly -became aware of the extreme peril of their situation, and that a quick -retreat alone could save them. It was, however, too late; his -comrade--his bosom friend, Gaspar Herrera--fell, apparently dead, a -dozen paces from him, and he, himself, in the act of raising up his -brave companion, was brought to the ground by a ball, which splintered -his ankle-bone. He managed, with great difficulty, to crawl to some -palmeta bushes, having first sheltered the body of his friend behind the -stem of a stunted olive tree, which would not afford cover for both; -and, lying flat on the ground, waited for some time in the hope that his -company had merely moved round to the left to gain a more accessible -part of the mountain, and would speedily renew the attack. - -At length, his patience becoming exhausted, he thought it would be well -to let his comrades know where he was, and once more levelling his -musket, resumed the offensive by attacking a pig, which, unconscious of -danger, came grunting with carniverous purpose towards that part of the -gory field where the body of his friend Gaspar lay extended. This drew a -heavy fire upon Antonio, but, as he was much below the rebels, who had -all retired into the town, and was tolerably well sheltered by the -friendly palmetas, he escaped further damage. - -In the meanwhile, Antonio and Gaspar had had been reported as killed to -the captain of the _cazadores_, who, whilst deploring with the other -officers the loss of the two most promising young men of his company, -heard the renewed firing in the direction of the late skirmish. -"_Corajo!_" he exclaimed, "that must be Conde and Herrera still at it." -"No, Senor," replied the serjeant, "they were both seen to fall as we -retreated from the hill; that firing must be an attack upon our friends -posted on the other side of the town; the rebels are probably attempting -to force a passage in that direction." "Well then, I cannot do wrong in -advancing," said the captain, "so let us on. Nevertheless, I still think -it is the fire of Conde and his comrade, and I know, my brave fellows," -he continued, addressing his men, "I know that if it be possible to -bring them off, you will do it." - -They advanced, accordingly, in the direction of the firing, and, as the -captain had conjectured, there they found Conde continuing the combat _a -l'outrance_, extended full length upon the ground under cover of the -palmeta bushes, with his head and ankle bandaged, and his ammunition -nearly exhausted. They fortunately succeeded in bearing him off without -sustaining any loss, though Conde insisted on their first removing the -seemingly lifeless body of his friend Gaspar, which he pointed out to -them. - -The detachment at the venta had now been reinforced by some cavalry and -artillery, and the remainder of the Queen's regiment, whilst the rest -of the Royalist force took post on the opposite side of the town, in a -position that covered the roads to Chiclana, Medina, Sidonia, and Alcala -de los Gazules, thereby depriving the beleaguered rebels of all chance -of escape. - -Towards dusk that same evening, one of Torrijos's troopers was brought -in a prisoner. Unconscious of the state of affairs, he had mistaken a -cavalry piquet of the king's troops for the advanced guard of the -_facciosos_, and had not even discovered his error in time to destroy -the despatches of which he was the bearer. By these it was learnt that -Torrijos, apprized of the failure on Cadiz and subsequent escape of the -rebel-band from the Isla de Leon, had not budged from the spot where he -had effected his landing; but he now sent to acquaint his coadjutors -that he had collected a sufficiency of boats to take them all off, and -that the bearer would be their guide to the place of embarkation. - -This information was forwarded to the rebels at Vejer, who, not giving -credit to it, continued to hold out until the third day, when their -provisions being exhausted and no Torrijos appearing, they agreed to -capitulate, and were marched prisoners to the Isla, where, but a few -days before, "_Quantam est in rebus inane!_" they had styled themselves -the liberators of Spain. - -The queen's regiment was now marched in all haste towards Tarifa, in the -hope of surprising and capturing Torrijos and his band, ere the news of -what had passed at Vejer could reach him, but he had taken the alarm at -the prolonged absence of his messenger, and, re-embarking his doughty -heroes, regained the anchorage of Gibraltar without having fired a shot -to assist their friends. The regiment, therefore, proceeded to -Algeciras, and from thence marched to San Roque, where it remained -stationary for several months. - -Here Antonio rejoined it, accompanied by his friend Herrera, who, thanks -to the timely surgical aid his comrade had been the means of procuring -him, yet lived to evince his gratitude to his preserver. Here, also, our -hero received the distinction which his gallant conduct had so well -earned, as well as the grant of a--to-this-day-unpaid--pension of a real -per diem. Promotion, too, was offered, but he chose rather to wait for a -vacancy in his own regiment than to receive immediate rank in any other. - -Our hero's military career was shortly, however, doomed to be brought to -a close. He had resumed his duty but a few days, when an order arrived -for the queen's regiment to proceed to Seville. The wound in Antonio's -ankle, though apparently quite healed, had been suffered to close over -the bullet that had inflicted it, and the first day's march produced -inflammation of so dangerous a character as to threaten, not only the -loss of his shattered limb, but even of life itself. - -In this deplorable state Antonio was left behind at Ximena, where, -fortunately, an aunt of Gaspar resided. The good Dame Felipa required -only to hear the young soldier's name--his noble act of friendship -having long made it familiar to her ear--to receive him as her son. -"Never can I forget her kindness," said Antonio; "my own mother could -not have tended me with more unremitted attention, and--under the -Almighty--I feel that my recovery is entirely their work." Here an -"_Ay!_" drawn seemingly from the innermost recess of his heart, escaped -from the young soldier's lips, which, appearing quite out of keeping -with the terms in which he spoke of Dame Felipa's _maternal_ solicitude, -induced me, after a moment's pause, to ask, "But who are _they_, -Antonio?" - -"The aunt and sister of Gaspar," he replied, with some little confusion. - -"And you find the wounds of Cupid more incurable than those of Bellona?" -said I, jestingly--"_Vamos_, Don Antonio! As Sancho says, '_Gusto mucho -destas cosas de amores_,'[195] so let us have the sequel of your story -by all means." - -"I shall not be very long in relating it," continued our hero. "For -three months I remained the guest of Dona Felipa. A fever, produced by -my intense sufferings, rendered me for many days quite insensible to the -extraordinary kindness of which I was the object; at length it was -subdued, leaving me, however, so reduced, that for weeks I could not -quit my couch. Indeed, the most perfect repose was ordered on account of -my wound, the cure of which was rendered far more tedious and -troublesome from former mismanagement. During this long period, the -sister of my friend Gaspar was my constant attendant. She read to me, -sang to me, or touched the guitar to break--what she imagined must -be--the wearisome monotony of my confinement. I have even, when -consciousness first returned, on the abatement of the fever, heard her, -thinking I was sleeping, _pray_ for the recovery of her brother's -preserver. - -"It was impossible to be thus the object of Manuela's tender solicitude, -without being impressed with the most ardent love and admiration for one -so pure, so engaging, and so beauteous! Had she indeed been less lovely -and captivating, had she even been absolutely plain, still her assiduous -and disinterested attention could not but have called forth my warmest -gratitude and regard; but I trust you will one day see Manuela, and -then be able to judge if I could resist becoming the captive of such -_enganchamientos_[196] as she possesses. - -"Vainly I endeavoured to stifle the rising passion at its birth. Alas! -the greater my efforts were to eradicate it, the deeper it took root in -my heart. I hoped, nevertheless, to have sufficient self-control to -conceal my passion from the eyes of all, even of her who had called it -into existence, for gratitude and honour equally forbade my endeavouring -to engage the affections of one whose family, placed in a walk of life -far above mine--that is in point of _wealth_, added the K. S. F. -somewhat proudly--I had little right to hope, would consider a poor -soldier of fortune a suitable match for the daughter of the rich Don -Fadrique Herrara. Nor did I know, indeed, how Manuela herself would -receive my addresses, for I scarcely ventured to attribute the soft -glances of her love-inspiring eyes to any other feeling than that of -compassion for the sufferings of her brother's friend. - -"The day of separation came, however, and the veil which had so long -concealed our mutual feelings was gently and unpremeditatedly drawn -aside. Manuela's father and her brother Gaspar came to Ximena to pass a -few days with Dona Felipa, and finding that, though still a prisoner to -my room, I was now declared to be out of all danger, Don Fadrique -announced his intention of taking his daughter home with him--her visit -having already been prolonged far beyond the time originally fixed, in -consequence of my illness, and the fatigue which, unassisted, the -attendance upon me would have imposed on her aunt. - -"When the dreaded hour of departure arrived, my lovely nurse came to the -side of my couch, to bid her last farewell. A tear stood in her bright -eye; the silvery tones of her voice faltered; her hand trembled as she -placed it in mine, and a blush suffused her cheeks as I pressed it to my -lips. But that soft hand was not withdrawn until her own lips had -confessed her love, and had sealed the unsolicited promise, never to -bestow that hand upon another! - -"The difficulty now was to make known our mutual attachment to her -father, who I dreaded would think but ill of me, for the return thus -made for all the kindness of his family. My pride pinched me, also, lest -allusion should be made to my poverty, for, though poor, the blood of -the Conde's is pure as any in the Serrania. - -"I had but little time for consideration, for Don Fadrique was about to -mount his horse, and I thought the best channel of communication would -be my friend Gaspar. He listened attentively to my tale, which was not -told without much embarrassment, and then, to my confusion, burst into -a loud laugh. - -"'Pretty _news_, truly, _amigo_ Antonio,' he at length exclaimed. '_My_ -eyes, however, have not been so exclusively occupied with one object for -this week past--like your's and my sister's--as to render the -communication of this wonderful secret at all necessary. But be of good -cheer; I have seen how the matter stood, and, on the part of my sister, -encouraged it; and I hope to be able to overcome all difficulties, so -leave the affair in my hands:--on our way homewards I will talk the -matter over with my father, and you shall hear the result shortly.' - -"Nor did he disappoint me. In a few days a letter came from Gaspar: the -result of his interference exceeded my expectations: Don Fadrique had -received his communication very calmly, and told him that before -returning any definite answer, he should take time to fathom Manuela's -feelings. - -"Not long after this, I received a letter, of a less satisfactory kind, -however, from Don Fadrique himself. It simply stated that he could not -at present give his consent to his daughter's accepting me; that he had -no objections to urge on the score of my rank in life, or the way in -which I had acted in the matter, but that his daughter's expectations -entitled him to look for a wealthier son-in-law, and that, in fact, it -had long been a favorite plan of his, to unite her to the son of an old -and intimate friend, when they should be of a proper age. - -"Nevertheless--his letter concluded--provided I would abstain from -seeing, writing to, or holding _in any way_ communication with his -daughter for the space of two years, he would, at the expiration of that -period, consent to our union, should we both continue to wish it. - -"This chilling letter was accompanied by a hastily written billet from -Manuela. It was as follows:--'I know my father's conditions--accept -them, and have full confidence in the constancy of your Manuela.' - -"I accordingly wrote to Don Fadrique, subscribing to the terms he -proposed, and, from that day to this, have neither seen nor communicated -with either Manuela or any member of her family." - -"But have you not heard from time to time of the welfare of your -Manuela?" I asked; "are you sure she is yet unmarried?" For it struck me -that the young son of "an old and intimate friend" was a dangerous -person to have paying court to one's mistress during a two years' -absence; especially in Spain, where _love matches_ are rather scouted. A -story that one of Manuela's countrywomen related to me of herself, -recurring to me at the same time. - -This lady had, early in life, formed an attachment to a young officer, -whom poverty alone prevented her marrying. His regiment was ordered to -Ceuta, and she remained at Malaga, consoling herself with the hope that -brighter days would dawn upon them. Her friends laughed at the idea of -such interminable constancy, especially as a most advantageous _parti_ -presented itself for her acceptance. The proposer--it is true--was -neither so handsome nor so youthful as the exile, but then he was also -an officer, and "_in very good circumstances_." She could not forget her -first love, however--indeed, she _never_ could--and long turned a deaf -ear to the tender whisperings of her new admirer; but, at length, her -relations became urgent, as well as her lover; the mail boat from Ceuta -gradually came to be looked for with less impatience; and, "_por fin_," -she observed, "_como era Capitan por Capitan (!!)_,[197] I had no great -objections to urge, and we were married!" - -She confessed to me, however, that this exchange was not effected -"_without paying the difference_," as the treatment she experienced from -her rich husband, caused her ever after to regret having given up her -poor lover. - -But to return to Antonio--"I have had but few opportunities of hearing -from Manuela," he replied, "for my native village is removed from any -high road, and the close attendance required by my aged parents--my -wound having incapacitated me from further military service--has been -such, that I seldom could get as far as Jaen to make enquiries amongst -the _contrabandistas_ and others who visit the neighbourhood, of her -place of residence; but about a month since I met an _arriero_ of Arcos, -who knew Don Fadrique well, and from him I learnt that Manuela is still -unmarried, has lost all her beauty, is wasted to a shadow; and said to -be suffering from some disease that baffles the skill of the most -eminent physicians of the place. - -"This intelligence has made me the more anxious to see her, and claim -her promised hand, for no change in her personal appearance--even if the -account be true--can alter the sentiments I entertain for her; but, at -the same time, it has placed a weight upon my spirits which in vain I -endeavour to throw off. - -"The morning it was my good fortune to fall in with you, Caballeros, I -had set out from my home to proceed to Ximena, whither I understand -Manuela has been removed for change of air. For the term of my -probation, though not yet expired, is fast drawing to a close, and -having some business to transact with the military authorities at -Granada and Malaga respecting my pension (of which not a _maravedi_ has -ever been paid), I have timed my movements so as to reach Ximena by the -day on which I may again present myself to Manuela, and receive, I -trust, the reward of my constancy." - -Antonio's narrative was here brought to a conclusion, but ere he left -us, I exacted the promise mentioned in the preceding chapter, that he -would acquaint us with the result of Don Fadrique's essay in -experimental philosophy. Circumstances, however, occurred to prevent our -meeting him at the place of appointment, and I had almost given up the -hope of hearing more of Antonio and his love story, when, to my -surprise, he one morning presented himself at my breakfast table at San -Roque. - -I saw, at the first glance, that the course of true love had not run -smooth--he was pale and hagged--flurried, yet dispirited. "My good -Antonio," said I, unwilling to give utterance to a doubt of his fair -one's constancy, "I fear Don Fadrique has not proved to be a man of his -word." - -"_Perdon usted_," he replied--"he has been faithful to his word"--worse -and worse, thought I--"And Manuela not less constant in her affection," -he continued; guessing at once the suspicion that flitted across my -mind--"Alas! I could even wish it were not so, if all otherwise were -well; but fate has ordered differently. A calamity has befallen Manuela; -compared to which, death would be a mercy. She is in a state that is -heart-rending to behold. Her sufferings are almost beyond the power of -bearing. Oh, Caballero! it is fearful--it is awful to see her. She has -the best advice that money can procure, but nothing can be done to give -us a hope of her recovery." - -"Mad?" I exclaimed, with a shudder--"Oh, cursed love of riches...." - -"_Nada, nada_,"[198] interrupted Antonio, "she is as sensible as ever. -Alas! I could even bear to see her insane, for then I might hope that -time would effect a change." - -"Is it _Etica_?" I asked, knowing that the Spaniards consider -consumption both incurable and highly infectious. - -A mournful shake of the head was his reply. - -"What then, my good Antonio, _is_ the nature of her malady?" - -"_Ojala_[199] that it could be called a malady, Don Carlos," ejaculated -the silver cross of San Fernando; "it might not then be beyond the reach -of the physician's art. But _Dios de mi vida!_ there is no hope for her, -unless a miracle can be wrought. It is to have a consultation on that -point, I am come to San Roque." - -"What," said I, my patience thoroughly exhausted, "has she embraced -Mohammedanism?" - -"Not far from it, Don Carlos--she is possessed of a devil!" - -"Friend Antonio," said I, "congratulate yourself;--such discoveries are -seldom made _before_ marriage. Let me, however, persuade you, instead of -consulting with priests, to allow an heretical English doctor to meet -this devil face to face; his simple nostrums may perchance be found more -efficacious than the exorcisms of the most pious divines. But explain to -me the signs and symptoms of the presence of this imp of darkness; and -pardon my making light of so serious an affair, for, rest assured, the -evil one is not now permitted to torment the human frame with bodily -anguish; his toils are spread for catching _souls_; and worldly -pleasures, not personal sufferings, are the means he employs to effect -his purpose." - -Antonio then entered into a detailed account of his betrothed's ailment, -as well as of the mode of treatment that had been adopted; but, -ignorant, superstitious, and bigoted, as I knew the campestral Spanish -_faculty_ to be, I had yet to learn how far they could practise on the -credulity of their infatuated _patients_. - -Manuela, it appeared, had, one day during the preceding Lent, been so -imprudent as to taste some chicken broth that had been prepared for her -sick father; and it was supposed, that the devil, assuming the -appearance of the egg of some insect, had gained admission to her throat -and settled in her breast, where he had ever since been nurtured and -was gradually "_comiendo su vida_!"[200] - -The Doctors assured her friends that the only way of appeasing the -monster's appetite, was by the constant application of thick slices of -raw beef to the exterior of the part affected--but this remedy was daily -losing its effect. - -My astonishment knew no bounds.--Was it possible such gross ignorance -could exist, or such horrible imposition be practised in the nineteenth -century! - -After much persuasion, Antonio promised to bring his betrothed to San -Roque, to have the advice of an English doctor; my proposal of taking -one to see her, at Ximena, having at once been negatived on the grounds -that it would cause great irritation amongst the people of that town; -and, accordingly, on the day appointed for the meeting, Manuela, borne -on a kind of litter, and accompanied by her aunt, came to San Roque on -the pretence of its being her wish to offer a wax bust at the shrine of -one of the Emigre Saints of Gibraltar "now established in the city of -_San Roque de su Campo;_" which said saint, having taken a very active -part in expelling the Moors from Spain, it was naturally concluded might -feel an interest in driving the devil out of Manuela's breast. - -Antonio's mistress had evidently been a lovely creature. Her features -were beautifully outlined, but her white lips and bloodless cheeks, her -sunken eyes and wasted figure, declared the ravages making by some -terrible inward disease. She was suffering excessive pain from the -effects of the journey, but received us with a faint smile. - -"I fear, sir," she said, with some emotion, addressing herself to my -friend, Dr. ----, "I fear, sir, that I have given you unnecessary trouble -in coming to see me, for I am told that my disorder is beyond the reach -of medical skill; but my friend here," pointing to her lover, who, with -brimful eyes, stood watching alternately the pain-distorted countenance -of his mistress and that of the Doctor, hoping, if possible, to discover -his thoughts, "my friend here requested me so earnestly to come and meet -you, that, as we shall be so short a time together on this earth, I -could not, as far as concerned myself, refuse him so slight a favour, -and I hope you will pardon the inconvenience to which we have put you." - -Antonio and myself now withdrew, leaving Manuela and Dona Felipa with -Dr. ----, who, in a short time rejoined us, and, to Antonio's -inexpressible delight, informed him that the case of his betrothed was -not by any means hopeless, though she would have to submit to a painful -surgical operation, and then turning round to me, he added, "the poor -creature is suffering from a cancerous affection, which, fortunately, is -just in the state that I could most wish it to be. But no time must be -lost." - -The nature of the case having been fully explained to Antonio, it was -left to him to persuade Manuela to submit to the necessary operation, -and to inform her, that though it might be performed with safety _then_, -yet death must inevitably be the consequence of delay. - -The prejudices we were prepared to encounter were numerous, but they -were propounded chiefly by Manuela's aunt, she herself agreeing without -hesitation to every thing Antonio suggested. At length, however, the old -lady said a positive answer should be given after consulting with a -priest, and I forthwith accompanied Antonio to Don ---- ----, and -requested his attendance. - -Antonio was present at the consultation, and gave us an amusing account -of it. The main objection of the Dona Felipa was to the heretical hand -that was to direct the knife; but the worthy _Padre_--who had good -reason to know the superior skill of the English faculty over those of -his own country, and was himself _spelling_ for a little advice on the -score of an over-strained digestion--took the case up most zealously, -and eventually overcame all their scruples. - -"Fear not," said he, winding up his arguments, "Fear not, good dame, to -trust the maiden in his hands. Like as the Lord opened the mouth of -Balaam's ass to admonish her master, so has he put wisdom into the heads -of these heretical doctors for the good of us, his faithful servants. -Quiet your conscience, Senora Felipa, I myself have been physicked by -these semi-christian _Medicos_." - -The case was not much in point, but it served the purpose. Dona Felipa -was convinced; her niece submitted; the operation was successfully -performed; the colour in a short time returned to the cheeks of the -truly lovely and loveable Manuela; the smile of health once again -lighted up her intelligent countenance. And, ere I left the country, the -small share it had fallen to my lot to take in producing this happy -change, was gratefully acknowledged by the expressive, though downcast -glance that gleamed from Manuela's bright and joyous eyes, on my -addressing her as the bride of the knight of San Fernando. - -THE END. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - - _Itinerary of the principal Roads of Andalusia, and of the three - great Routes leading from that Province to the Cities of Madrid, - Lisbon, and Valencia._ - -N.B. The measurements on the Post Roads are given in Spanish leagues, -conformably with the Government Regulations by which Postmasters are -authorized to charge for their horses. On these, therefore, the -distances from stage to stage cannot be calculated with much precision; -but a Spanish _Post_ league may generally be reckoned 3-1/2[201] English -miles. On the other roads the distances are more accurately specified in -English miles. - - - No. 1. - BAYLEN TO MADRID. - (A Post Road, travelled by Diligences.) - - Leagues. - From Baylen to Guarroman 2 - thence to La Carolina 2 - Santa Elena 2 - La Venta de Cardenas 2 - Visillo 2 - Sta. Cruz de Mudela 2 - Val de Penas 2 - N. S. de la Consalacion 2 - Manzanares 2 - La Casa nueva del Rey 2-1/2 - Villaharta 2-1/2 - Vta. del Puerto Lapice 2 - Madridejos 3 - Cana de la higuera 2 - Tembleque 2 - Guardia 2 - Ocana 3-1/2 - Aranjuez 2 - Espartinas 2-1/2 - Los Angeles 3 - Madrid 2-1/2 - --- - Total leagues 47-1/2 - --- - 47-1/2 leagues = 164 English miles. - - - No. 2. - SEVILLE TO LISBON. - (Post road, travelled by Carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Seville to Santi Ponce 1 - thence to La Venta de Guillena 3 - Ronquillo 3 - Santa Olalla 4 - Monasterio 4 - Fuente de Cantos 3 - Los Santos de Maimona 4 - Santa Marta 5 - Albuera 3 - Badajos 4 - Elvas (Portugal) 3 - Lisbon 30 - -- - Total leagues 67 - -- - 67 leagues = 232 miles. - - - No. 3. - GRANADA TO VALENCIA. - (Post road, no Diligence.) - - Leagues. - From Granada to Diezma 6 - thence to Guadiz 3 - From Guadiz to Baza 7 - thence to Lorca 18 - Murcia 12 - Alicante 13 - San Felipe 9 - Valencia 14 - -- - Total leagues 82 - -- - -82 leagues=284 miles. - - -No. 4. - -CADIZ to MADRID. - -(Post road travelled by carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to San Fernando 3 - thence to Puerto Sta. Maria 3 - Xeres de la Frontera 2-1/2 - de Casa Real del Cuervo 3-1/2 - Ventllo de la Torre de Orcas 3-1/2 - Utrera 3-1/2 - Alcala de Guadaira 3 - Mairena del Alcor 2 - Carmona 2 - da Venta de la Portugueza 2-1/2 - Luisiana 3-1/2 - Ecija 3 - La Carlota 4 - Cortijo de Mangonegro 3 - Cordoba 3 - Alcolea 2 - Carpio 3 - Aldea del Rio 3-1/2 - Andujar 3-1/2 - La Casa del Rey 2-1/2 - Baylen 2-1/2 - By No. 1, from Baylen to Madrid 47-1/2 - ---- - Total leagues 109-1/2 - ---- - -109-1/2 leagues=378 miles - - -No. 5. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE. - -(Post and carriage road.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to Alcala de Guadaira, - by Route No. 4 22 - Thence to Seville 2 - -- - Total leagues 24 - -24 leagues=83 miles. - - -No. 6. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE, by the MARISMA. - -(Direct road, passable for carriages in summer only.) - - Miles. - - From Cadiz, by boat, to El - Puerto de Santa Maria 5 - Thence to Xeres 9 - Lebrija 15 - Seville 28 - -- - Total miles 57 - -- - - -No. 7. - -CADIZ to LISBON. - -(Post road.) - - Leagues. - - From Cadiz to Seville, by No. 5. 24 - Seville to Lisbon, by No. 2. 67 - -- - Total leagues 91 - -- - -91 leagues = 315 miles. - - -No. 8. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Los Barrios 12 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 9 - La Venta de Tabilla 11 - La Venta de Vejer 14 - (Town of Vejer -1/2 a mile on left.) - Chiclana 16 - El Puente Zuazo 4-1/2 - Cadiz 9 - --- - Total miles 75-1/2 - --- - - -No. 9. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Another bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Algeciras[202] 9 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 10 - by No. 8 54-1/2 - ---- - Total miles 73-1/2 - ---- - - -No. 10. - -GIBRALTAR to XERES. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - Thence to La Venta la Gamez 4-1/2 - La Casa de Castanas 15 - Alcala de los Gazules 13 - (The town left -1/2 a mile to the right.) - Paterna 9 - Xeres 16 - --- - Total miles 63-1/2 - --- - - -No. 11. - -GIBRALTAR to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ximena 24 - thence to Ubrique 20 - El Broque 10 - Villa Martin 8 - Utrera 21 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - -- - Total miles 98 - -- - - -No 12. - -GIBRALTAR to LISBON. - -(Bridle road to Seville, from thence a carriage road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Seville, by - Route No. 11 98 - From Seville to Lisbon, by - Route No. 2 232 - --- - Total miles 330 - --- - - -No. 13. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -(A post, but only bridle road to Osuna, from thence a carriage route.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - thence to Gaucin 25 - Atajate 14 - Ronda 10 - From Ronda to Saucejo 21 - thence to Osuna 11 - Ecija 20 - By Route No. 4, from thence - to Baylen, 27 leagues = 93 - By Route No. 1, from Baylen - to Madrid, 47-1/2 leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 364 - --- - - -No. 14. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -BY BENEMEJI. - -(A bridle road only as far as Andujar.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ronda, by - Route No. 13 55 - From Ronda to La Venta de - Teba 21 - (Town of Teba -1/2 mile on the right) - thence to Campillos 6 - Fuente de Piedra 9 - Benemeji 16 - Lucena 12 - Baena 18 - Porcuna 24 - Andujar 14 - Baylen 17 - By Route No. 1, to Madrid, - 47-1/2 leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 356 - --- - - -No. 15. - -GIBRALTAR to MALAGA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Venta Guadiaro 12 - thence to Estepona 15 - Marbella 16 - Fuengirola 16 - Benalmedina 6 - Malaga 14 - -- - Total miles 79 - -- - - -No. 16. - -GIBRALTAR to GRANADA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Gibraltar to Malaga, by - Route No. 15 79 - From Malaga to Valez 18 - thence to La Venta de Alcaucin 12 - Alhama 12 - La Venta de Huelma 15 - La Mala 6 - Granada 9 - ---- - Total miles 151 - ---- - - -No. 17. - -GIBRALTAR to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Granada, by - Route No. 16 151 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 435 - ---- - - -No. 18. - -MALAGA to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Malaga to Venta de Cartama 13-1/2 - (leaves town of Cartama 1 mile - on left.) - Venta de Cartama to Casarabonela 11-1/2 - (the ascent to this town may be - avoided, keeping it to the left) - Casarabonela to El Burgo 9 - thence to Ronda 11 - Zahara 15 - (Town half a mile off, on the left.) - thence to Puerto Serrano 7 - Coronil 10 - Utrera 8 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - ---- - Total miles 100 - ---- - - -No. 19. - -MALAGA to CORDOBA. - -(Practicable for Carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Venta de Galvez 153/4 - thence to Antequera 121/4 - Puente Don Gonzalo 27 - Rambla 16 - Cordoba 16 - --- - Total miles 87 - --- - - -No. 20. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(Post road, travelled by a Diligence.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to El Colmenar 17 - Thence to Venta de Alfarnate 10 - Loja 16 - Venta de Cacin 8 - Lachar 9 - Santa Fe 8 - Granada 8 - Venta de San Rafael 27 - Jaen 24 - Menjiber 14 - Baylen 10 - To Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 315 - ---- - - -No. 21. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(a more direct road, but in part only practicable for carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Loja, by Route 43 - Thence to Montefrio 12 - Alcala la real 14 - Alcaudete 11 - Martos 12 - Arjona 17 - Andujar 7 - Baylen 17 - ---- - Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - - -No. 22. - -MALAGA to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Granada, by - Route No. 16 72 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 356 - ---- - - -No. 23. - -GRANADA to CORDOBA. - -(A wheel road as far as Alcala.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Pinos de la - Puerte 12 - thence to Alcala la Real 18 - Baena 24 - Castro el Rio 6 - Cordoba 24 - --- - Total miles 84 - --- - - -No. 24. - -GRANADA to MADRID. - -(Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Baylen, by - Route No. 20 75-1/2 - Thence to Madrid by Route - No. 1 164 - ----- - Total miles 239-1/2 - ----- - - -No. 25. - -GRANADA to SEVILLE. - -(Not a wheel road throughout.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Santa Fe 8 - thence to Lachar 8 - La Venta de Cacin 9 - Loja 8 - Archidona[203] 18 - Alameda 11 - Pedrera 12 - Osuna 11 - Marchena 14 - Maraina del Alcor 14 - Alcala del Guadiaro 7 - Seville 8 - ---- - Total miles 128 - ---- - - -No. 26. - -SEVILLE to MADRID. - -(Post and Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Seville to Alcala de Guadaira 8 - Thence to Beylen, by Route - No. 4 138 - Baylen to Madrid, by Route - No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 310 - ---- - - -No. 27. - -SEVILLE to VALENCIA. - - Miles. - From Seville to Granada, by - Route No. 25 128 - From Granada to Valencia, by - Route No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 412 - ---- - - * * * * * - - _Just Published_, - - In 2 vols., 8vo. with Illustrations, - - CAPTAIN SCOTT'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND - CANDIA; - - With Details of the - - MILITARY POWER - - And Resources of those Countries, and Observations on the Government, - Policy, and Commercial System of MOHAMMED ALI. - -"One of the most sterling publications of the season. We have recently -had no small supply of information on Egypt, but there is a freshness in -Captain Scott's narrative that affords a new desire respecting the -events of this most interesting country. The narrative is throughout -light, and amusing; the habits and customs of the people are sketched -with considerable spirit and talent, and there is much novelty in the -gallant Author's details."--_Naval and Military Gazette._ - -"We do not recollect to have read a better book of travels than this, -since Slade's able publication on Turkey. The field of African and -Egyptian investigation has been variously trodden, but Captain Scott, -trusting to a shrewd observation and a sound understanding, has struck -out new lights and improved upon the information of others."--_United -Service Journal._ - - HENRY COLBURN, Publisher, 13, Great Marlborough Street. - - To be had of all Booksellers. - -_In a Few Days will be Published_, - -A TRAVELLING MAP OF PART OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN, - -INCLUDING THE GREATER PORTION OF THE KINGDOMS OF SEVILLE, CORDOBA, JAEN, -AND GRANADA. - -Compiled from the best Authorities, and Corrected from his own Notes and -Sketches, - -By CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - -AUTHOR OF "EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA AND GRANADA, &c. &c. -&c." - -To be had of Mr. NEW, Mapseller and Publisher, No. 11, Strand, price -2_s._ 6_d._ - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] See the Posting Itinerary in the Appendix. - -[2] The post league has already been stated to contain 3 English miles, -and 807 yards. - -[3] Town-hall. - -[4] Lobster-hunting--such is the name for Locust in Spanish. - -[5] Or Genua urbanorum.--Pliny. - -[6] Hirt. Bel. Hist. Cap. LXI. - -[7] In an abundant house supper is soon cooked. - -[8] Red pepper. - -[9] Cabbage. - -[10] A kind of sausage, resembling those made at Bologna. - -[11] Bacon.--Spanish bacon is certainly the best in the world, which -may be accounted for by the swine being fed principally on acorns, -chesnuts, and Indian corn. - -[12] No vain boast--the fact being established on the testimony of -Rocca. - -[13] Florez Medallas de las Colonias, &c. - -[14] Mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus--not the Ilipa of Strabo -and Pliny, situated on the river Boetis, and in the county of Seville. - -[15] The orchard. - -[16] Evil doer. - -[17] Alleys. - -[18] The dead body. - -[19] Roguish. - -[20] La Martiniere fell into a strange error in describing this river -and the battle field on its bank; making the stream fall into the bay -of Cadiz, and the scene of Alfonso's victory some fifty miles from -Tarifa. This mistake has been followed by several modern authors. - -[21] Not the Mellaria of Pliny, which was a city of the Turduli, within -the county of Cordoba. - -[22] A ruined town, no longer inhabited. - -[23] By Strabo ninety-four miles, following the coast: i.e. 750 Stadia. - -[24] Lib. III. Some editions enumerate two cities called _Besippo_, -thus, "Baesaro Tauilla dicte Baesippo, Barbesula, Lacippo, Baesippo, &c.;" -but Holland and Harduin give only one, calling the first "_Belippo_." - -[25] There is no Epidemic here. - -[26] There are more direct cross-roads to these places, but they are -not always passable in winter. - -[27] _Toll-house._ - -[28] Strabo. - -[29] This one amongst the various restraints laid on the trade of -Gibraltar has very lately been removed on the remonstrance of our -government. - -[30] Shops where ice is sold. - -[31] I understand this Cathedral is now being patched up in an -economical way to render it serviceable. - -[32] Road of Hercules. The causeway connecting Cadiz with the Isla de -Leon is so called, and supposed to be a work of the Demi-god. - -[33] 400 or 500 butts of Wine are shipped yearly from this place. - -[34] The old mouth of the Guadalete is obstructed by a yet more -impracticable bar. - -[35] 10,000 butts of Wine are collected annually from the vineyards of -Puerto Santa Maria. The exports amount to 12,000. - -[36] Camomile. - -[37] Mother. - -[38] So called from the town of _Montilla_, whence the grape, that -originally produced this description of dry, light-coloured wine, was -brought to Xeres. - -[39] Carthusian convent. - -[40] Strabo and Pliny. - -[41] A Fen, subject to the inundations of the sea. Such, however, is -not the case here. - -[42] Water-courses, which are dry in summer. - -[43] Written _Vrgia_ by Pliny--_Vcia_ by Ptolemy. - -[44] Itin. Anton. - -[45] Espana Sagrada. - -[46] This supposes the earth's circumference to have been reckoned -240,000 stadia, giving 83-1/3 miles to a degree of the meridian. By the -calculation of Eratosthenes, the circumference of the earth was 252,000 -stadia, which gives exactly 700 stadia, or 87-1/2 miles to a degree. - -[47] Mariana (lib. 3. cap. 22) has quite mistaken the situation of this -place, which he describes as two leagues from Xeres, _on the banks of -the Guadalete_. It is two leagues from Xeres, certainly, but nearly -three from the Guadalete, and but one and a half from the Guadalquivir. - -[48] The area of the Mezquita at Cordoba, taken altogether, is larger, -but not the enclosed portion of Gothic architecture, which is, properly -speaking, the Episcopal church. - -[49] A long time since. - -[50] In England, however, it must be the taste of the nation that is -suffering from disease, rather than its drama, if, with such writers as -Sheridan Knowles, Talfourd, and Bulwer, the theatre does not once more -become a popular place of resort. - -[51] Farce; but, literally, gout, highly seasoned dish. - -[52] Low and disorderly people. - -[53] Florez Medallas descubiertas, &c. - -[54] Old Seville. - -[55] De Bell. Civ. - -[56] Hollond--intending, of course, the Itipa of the Itinerary, since -the city of that name, mentioned by Pliny, was on the right bank of -the Guadalquivir; and from medals discovered of it, whereon a fish is -borne, may be concluded to have stood on the very margin of the river. - -[57] The gallant and talented author of the "History of the Peninsular -War" has fallen into some slight topographical errors (caused, -probably, by the extraordinary inaccuracy of the Spanish maps) in -describing the movements of the contending armies. He describes, for -instance, the French as obliging the Duke of Albuquerque to abandon -his position at Carmona (where he had hoped to cover both Seville -and Cadiz), by moving from Ecija upon Utrera (i.e. in rear of the -Spanish army), along "a road by Moron, shorter" than that leading to -the same place through Carmona. But so far from this road by Moron -being "_shorter_," it is yet more circuitous than the chaussee; and, -moreover, by skirting the foot of the Ronda mountains, it is both bad -and hilly. - -He furthermore represents the Duke of Albuquerque as falling back -from Utrera upon Xeres, with all possible speed, and, nevertheless, -taking Lebrija in his way, which town is, at least, eight miles out -of the direct road. A French account (_La Pene, Campagne de 1810_) -says, the Spanish army fell back from Carmona "par le chemin _le plus -direct, Utrera et Arcos sur Xeres_,"--an error equally glaring, for the -chaussee is the shortest road from Utrera to Xeres;--in fact, it is as -direct as a road can well be, and leaves Arcos some twelve miles on -the left! We may suppose, in attempting to reconcile these discrepant -accounts, that the main body of the duke's army retreated from Utrera -to Xeres by the chaussee; the cavalry by Arcos, to cover its right -flank during the march; and that the road by Lebrija was taken by the -troops withdrawn from Seville, as being the most direct route from that -city to Xeres. - -[58] Don Maldonado Saavedra viewed it in this light, imagining that, in -the Itinerary of Antoninus from Cadiz to Cordoba, two distinct roads -were referred to; one proceeding direct, by way of Seville, whence it -was taken up by another road, afterwards described, to Cordoba; the -other (starting again from Cadiz) traversing the Serrania de Ronda to -Antequera, and proceeding thence to Cordoba by Ulia. Florez, however, -disputes this hypothesis, conceiving that but one route is intended, -and that from Seville onwards it was given, not as a direct road, but -merely as one by which troops might be marched if occasion required. -But why, if such were the case, a road should have been made that -increased the distance from Seville to Antequera from 85 to 121 miles, -he does not explain; and I confess, therefore, it seems to me, that Don -Maldonado Saavedra's supposition is the more probable. The distances, -however, between the modern places which he has named as corresponding -with those mentioned in the Itinerary do not at all agree; and he -also, in laying down the road from Cadiz to Antequera, has made it -unnecessarily circuitous. The following towns will be found to answer -much better with those mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, and the line -connecting them is one of the most practicable through the Serrania. - -_Iter a Gadis Corduba, milia plus minus 295 sic._ - - Roman miles. - - Ad pontem (Puente Zuazo) m. p. m. 12 - Portu Gaditano (Puerto Santa Maria) 14 - Hasta (near La Mesa de Asta) 16 - Ugia (Las Cabezas de San Juan) 27 - Orippo (Dos Hermanos) 24 - Hispali (Seville) 9 - - (returning now to the Puente Zuazo, we have to) - - Basilippo (a rocky mound and ruins between Paterna - and Alcala de los Gazules) 21 - - -[59] Olbera, according to Saavedra. - -[60] This disagreement with the heading is in the original. - -[61] Cura de los Palacios. - -[62] The diminutive of Venta. - -[63] Are they English? - -[64] Literally--on which foot the business was lame. - -[65] - - He who shelters himself under a good tree, - gets a good shade. - - -[66] Name and surname. - -[67] Beneficed clergyman. - -[68] Glance--from ojo, eye. - -[69] Good for study. - -[70] The lower orders of Spaniards, generally speaking, imagine that -Protestantism implies a denial of the Godhead in the person of Our -Saviour, and consider that but for our eating pork, like _Christianos -Viejos_, we should be little better than Jews. For the whole seed of -Israel, they entertain a most preposterous dislike; so deep rooted is -it, indeed, that I once knew an instance of a young Spanish woman--far -removed from a _low_ station in life, however--who was perfectly -horrified on being told by an English lady that Our Saviour was a -Jew. Her exclamation of "Jesus!" was in a key which seemed to express -wonder that such a blasphemous assertion had not met with the summary -punishment of Annanias and Sapphira. I have no doubt but that the bad -success which has attended the _Cristina_ arms is attributed by the -lower orders less to the incapacity of Espartero and Co. than to the -Jewish blood flowing in the veins of Senor Mendizabel. - -[71] Mapping the town. - -[72] A Spanish side-saddle; or, more properly, an _arm-chair_, placed -sideways on a horse's back, with a board to rest the feet upon. - -[73] Female attendant. - -[74] Managing person. - -[75] Ages ago. - -[76] Many Roman Emperors. - -[77] As it is said, by an Englishman named Marlborough, and other very -distinguished persons. - -[78] Palacios, posadas, y todo--i.e., palaces, inns, and _every thing_. - -[79] Throughout Spain. - -[80] For every thing it has a cure--look you, &c. - -[81] Youngster. - -[82] The poor old Tio could not have acted under "proper directions," -as I am informed that he died the year following my last visit to the -_Hedionda_. - -[83] I drink no other--never any other--I cook and every thing with it. - -[84] Even to its bad smell. - -[85] Little walk. - -[86] A game that bears some resemblance to Boston. - -[87] The Invalid. - -[88] The water--nothing but the water--there is nothing in the world -more salutary. - -[89] They say that he was one of those lords, of whom there are so many -in England. - -[90] Heaps of gold. - -[91] To me it appears. - -[92] The Spaniards considered tea a medicine. - -[93] A gentleman in whom perfect confidence might be placed. - -[94] Yes, sir; that is true. - -[95] Pastures. - -[96] There are many robbers hereabouts--last year (accursed be these -rascally Spaniards!) a good fowling-piece was stolen from me in this -confounded narrow pass, &c. - -[97] These beggarly Spaniards, &c. - -[98] Young lady of the house. - -[99] Very well _combed_, literally--her hair well dressed. - -[100] Unequalled. - -[101] A young girl I am bringing up for (_i. e._ to be) a countess. - -[102] Now, gentlemen, it is necessary to load--these cowardly Spaniards -always fall suddenly upon one; and, if we are not prepared, we shall -be all netted, like so many little birds.--We are all well armed with -double-barrelled guns, and, with prudence, we shall have nothing to -fear--but ...! prudence is necessary. - -[103] In these parts, no evil-disposed persons whatever are to be met -with; that sort of _canaille_ know too well who Louis de Castro is. - -[104] A gazpacho, eaten hot. - -[105] Literally, _beds_--spots frequented by the deer. - -[106] Wolf. - -[107] The position taken up by the sportsmen is called the _cama_, as -well as the haunt of the game. - -[108] A day of foxes--an expression amongst Spanish sportsmen, -signifying an unlucky day. - -[109] Literally, light--here used as "_fire!_" - -[110] A wild boar! zounds! - -[111] Yes, it is a sow. - -[112] To escape from the thunder, and encounter the lightning. - -[113] The war-cry of the Spaniards. - -[114] I precede you with this motive, and in the shortest possible time -_all will be ready_. - -[115] Very dear friend of mine; aprec'ion, abbreviation of apreciacion; -esteem. - -[116] Go you with God ... and without a horse. - -[117] An ounce; i. e. a doubloon. - -[118] Get down directly. - -[119] Perhaps a flight of woodcocks will arrive to-night. Is it not -true, good father? - -[120] "It is infested with banditti at each step. Is it not true, Don -Diego, that that rocky path beyond Alcala is called the road to the -infernal regions?" "Yes, yes--as true as holy writ." - -[121] Rock of Sancho. - -[122] The little stream that empties itself into the sea, near Tarifa, -is called _El_ Salado, _par excellence_, in consequence of the great -victory gained on its banks by Alfonso XI.; but, properly speaking, it -is El Salado _de Tarifa_. - -[123] Hirtius, Bel. Hisp. cap 7. - -[124] Ibid. cap. 8. - -[125] Dion--Lib. 48. - -[126] Dion and Hirtius. - -[127] Cap. 27. - -[128] _Singilia Hegua_, corrected by Hardouin to Singili Ategua.--The -ruins of Singili are on the banks of the Genil (Singilis) to the north -of Antequera. - -[129] It is a mere boast, however, for, according to Rocca, the French -entered the town and levied a contribution. - -[130] Scanty _vecinos_--a _vecino_, used as a _statistical_ term, -implies a hearth or family, though literally a neighbour. The Spanish -computation of population is always made by _vecinos_. - -[131] He does not understand. - -[132] Have no anxiety. - -[133] Mapping the country. - -[134] Town. - -[135] Fair and softly. - -[136] Nonsense. - -[137] Should this good woman be yet living, I suspect her opinion on -this point will have undergone a material change--like that of most -Spaniards. - -[138] With polite mien and deportment. - -[139] What a rare people are these English! - -[140] Mentioned by Hirtius--Bell. Hisp. Cap. XXVII. - -[141] The salutary waters of the divine Genil.--DON QUIJOTE. - -[142] Dion and Hirtius. - -[143] Zurita and Hardouin maintain, that it is not in the old editions -of Pliny. - -[144] Foreign gentlemen. - -[145] The wheel of fortune revolves more rapidly than that of a mill, -and those who were elevated yesterday, to-day are on the ground. - -[146] These _Salvo conductos_ were by no means uncommon in those days. -A friend of mine offered to procure me one to ensure me the protection -of the celebrated _Jose Maria_. - -[147] Forward, forward, heartless deceiver! - -[148] There is no wedding without its morrow's festival. - -[149] - - Between the hand and the mouth - the soup falls - - -[150] Holy face. - -[151] Uninhabited place. - -[152] Distant from Cordoba 300 stadia. - -[153] Distant fourteen miles from the Guadalquivir. - -[154] _Illiturgi quod Forum Julium._--PLINY. - -[155] Titus Livius, lib. 28. - -[156] Pliny. - -[157] To the parlour! to the parlour! - -[158] Be not afraid. - -[159] Stew. - -[160] Literally, that he could no more. - -[161] I, the king. - -[162] With us, I am sorry to say, "the honour of knighthood" has, in -too many instances, become rather an acknowledgment of so many years' -_good salary received_, than of any meritorious service performed. - -[163] A very small copper coin. - -[164] And this is a teapot! - -[165] A pillow! - -[166] What voluptuous people! - -[167] A stone--a flint. - -[168] How! without horses, without mules, without any thing, save steam! - -[169] The estate, so called, was bestowed on the Duke of Wellington, as -a slight acknowledgment of the distinguished services rendered by him -to the Spanish nation. - -[170] Santa Fe, built by Ferdinand and Isabella during the siege of -Granada, and dignified by them with the title of _city_, is a wretched -little walled town, of some twelve or fifteen hundred inhabitants; and, -excepting two full-length portraits of the Catholic kings contained in -the church, possesses nothing worthy of notice. - -[171] Eating; to use the expression of one of the peasants we conversed -with. - -[172] _Itinerary of Antoninus._ - - Malaca to Suel 21 m. p. m. - To Cilniana 24 " - To Barbariana 34 " - To Calpe Carteia 10 " - -- - Total 89 miles. - -Pomponius Mela has made sad confusion of the itinerary from Malaca to -Gades (of which the above is a part), by introducing Barbesula and -Calpe, and mentioning Carteia twice; but, on attentive observation, it -is evident he intended to imply that the road bifurked at Cilniana, -one branch going straight to Carteia by Barbariana, the other making a -detour by Barbesula and Calpe, and rejoining the former at Carteia; the -distance from Malaga to Cadiz, by the first route, being 155 miles, by -the latter 186. - -[173] Pliny. - -[174] Published in 1765. - -[175] "Two leagues" are his words--meaning Spanish measure, or eight -miles English; since he estimates the league at four miles. - -[176] Otherwise called Horgarganta. - -[177] Florez fixes Salduba where I suppose Cilniana to have stood, -i. e. on the eastern bank of the Rio Verde, about two miles to the -westward of Marbella. Cilniana he places at the Torre de Bovedas, a -site to which the objections above stated apply equally as to the -position assigned to that place by Mr. Carter. - -[178] Pliny places Salduba between Barbesula and Suel. - -[179] Marbella is a fine place, but do not enter it. - -[180] This may appear at variance with what I have said in computing -the distance from Malaca to Calpe Carteia in Roman miles--viz., only -eighty of eighty-three and one third to a degree of the meridian: but, -besides that the distance from Malaga to Gibraltar is at least three -English miles greater than to Carteia, the measurement I here give is -along a winding pathway, that makes the distance considerably more than -it would have been by a properly made road, even though it had followed -all the irregularities of the coast. - -[181] Bell. Hisp. cap. xxix. - -[182] Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga. - -[183] Traces of the first-named of these Roman roads may yet be seen -about Tolox. The latter was one of the great military roads mentioned -in the Itinerary of Antoninus, and, doubtless, existed long before that -work was compiled. - -[184] Hirtius, de Bell. Hisp. xxix. et seq. - -[185] Great allowance must be made for exaggeration in enumerating -the strength of contending armies in those early times, since even -in these days of despatches, bulletins, and Moniteurs, it is so -extremely difficult to get at the truth. The battle of Waterloo offers -a remarkable instance of this, for no two published accounts agree as -to the respective numbers of the belligerents, and one which I have -read--a French one, of course--swells the force under the Duke of -Wellington, on the 18th June, to 170,000 men!!! - -[186] The inscription is given at length in Florez Espana Sagrada. - -[187] The source of the Sigila, now called El Rio Grande, is -twenty-five English miles from Cartama, following the course of the -river. - -[188] Certainly _not_ Mr. Carter's, than which I never saw a more -complete caricature. Not one of the rivers is marked correctly upon it, -and the towns are scattered about where chance directed. - -[189] Hirtius Bell. Hisp. xxviii. - -[190] Ibid. xli. - -[191] An account of which place has already been given in Chapter I. of -this volume. - -[192] "Don Ferdinand the Seventh, by the grace of God, king of Castile, -Leon, Aragon, the Two Sicilies, Jerusalem, Navarre, Granada, Toledo, -Valencia, Gallicia, Majorca, Seville, Sardinia, Cordoba, Corsica, -Murcia, Jaen, the Algarves, Algeciras, Gibraltar, the Canary Islands, -the East and West Indies, islands and terra firma of the Great Ocean; -archduke of Austria; duke of Burgundy, Brabant, and Milan; Count of -Hapsburg, Flanders, the Tyrol, and Barcelona; Lord of Biscay and -Molina, &c."--The seeming wish to avoid prolixity, implied by this -"&c." is admirable. - -[193] _Clean_ blood. - -[194] At any price. - -[195] These love affairs are much to my taste. - -[196] Attractions--literally, _hooking_ qualities. - -[197] In fine--as it was captain for captain. - -[198] Not a bit. - -[199] Would to God! - -[200] Eating her life. - -[201] A Post league is equal to 3 British statute miles and 807 yards. - -[202] To Algeciras, by boat, saves 4 miles. - -[203] This is the only stage that is not perfectly practicable for a -carriage. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -Adventnre with Itinerant=> Adventure with Itinerant {pg v} - -gradully hauled=> gradually hauled {pg 54} - -rocky islot rises=> rocky islet rises {pg 62} - -in the joint-stock vilstge=> in the joint-stock village {pg 180} - -he exclaimed=> he ex-exclaimed {pg 212} - -It was necessry=> It was necessary {pg 241} - -the chace, and trust=> the chase, and trust {pg 256} - -addressiug me=> addressing me {pg 300} - -extarordinary=> extraordinary {pg 331} - -woollen mattrasses=> woollen mattresses {pg 337} - -too many intances=> too many instances {pg 346} - -decsends=> descends {pg 384} - -considered irresisitble=> considered irresistible {pg 387} - -acccordingly=> accordingly {pg 421} - -to unite her to to the son=> to unite her to the son {pg 429} - -long turned a a deaf ear=> long turned a deaf ear {pg 430} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda -and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43705.txt or 43705.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/0/43705/ - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/43705.zip b/43705.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a449d3b..0000000 --- a/43705.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/43705-8.txt b/old/43705-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 1b2a65c..0000000 --- a/old/43705-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11680 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and -Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2 - -Author: Charles Rochfort Scott - -Release Date: September 12, 2013 [EBook #43705] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Etext transcriber's note: The footnotes have been located after the -etext. Corrections of some obvious typographical errors have been made -(a list follows the etext); the spellings of several words currently -spelled in a different manner have been left un-touched. (i.e. -chesnut/chestnut; every thing/everything; Our's/Ours; Codoba/Cordoba; -sanitory/sanitary; your's/yours; janty/jaunty; visiters/visitors; -negociation/negotiation.) The accentuation of words in Spanish has not -been corrected or normalized. - -[Illustration: CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR - -_On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott_ - -_R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre_ - -_Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St._] - - - - - EXCURSIONS - - IN THE - - MOUNTAINS - - OF - - RONDA AND GRANADA, - - WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES - OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN. - - BY - - CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - - AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA." - - "_Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos - hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras._" - DON QUIJOTE. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - VOL. II. - - LONDON: - HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, - GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. - - 1838. - - LONDON: - - F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - - PAGE - -CHAPTER I. - -Departure from Cordoba--Post Road to -Cadiz--Carlota--Ecija--Carmona--Road from Ecija to -Gibraltar--Locusts--Osuna--Saucejo--An Olla in -perfection--Ronda--Splendid Scenery on the road to Grazalema--Distant -View of Zahara--Grazalema--Extensive Prospect from the Pass of -Bozal--Secluded Orchards of Benamajama--Pajarete--El -Broque--Ubrique--Difficult Road across the Mountains to Ximena--Our -Guide in a rage--Fine Scenery--Ximena--Strength of its Castle--Road to -Gibraltar 1 - -CHAPTER II. - -Departure for Cadiz--Road round the Bay of Gibraltar--Algeciras--Sandy -Bay--Gualmesi--Tarifa--Its Foundation--Error of Mariana in supposing it -to be Carteia--Battle of El Salado--Mistake of La Martiniere concerning -it--Itinerary of Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified--Continuation -of Journey--Ventas of Tavilla and Retin--Vejer--Conil--Spanish Method of -Extracting Good from Evil--Tunny Fishery--Barrosa--Field of -Battle--Chiclana--Road to Cadiz--Puente Zuazo--San Fernando--Temple of -Hercules--Castle of Santi Petri--Its Importance to Cadiz 33 - -CHAPTER III. - -Cadiz--Its Foundation--Various Names--Past Prosperity--Made a Free Port -in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar--Unjust Restrictions on -the Commerce of the British Fortress--Description of Cadiz--Its vaunted -Agremens--Society--Monotonous Life--Cathedral--Admirably built Sea -Wall--Naval Arsenal of La Carraca--Road to Xeres--Puerto Real--Puerto de -Santa Maria--Xeres--Its Filth--Wine Stores--Method of Preparing -Wine--Doubts of the Ancient and Derivation of the Present Name of -Xeres--Carthusian Convent--Guadalete--Battle of Xeres 64 - -CHAPTER IV. - -Choice of Roads to Seville--By Lebrija--Mirage--The Marisma--Post -Road--Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios--Difficulty of -Reconciling any of these Routes with that of the Roman -Itinerary--Seville--General Description of the City--The -Alameda--Display of Carriages--Elevation of the Host--Public -Buildings--The Cathedral--Lonja--American Archives--Alcazar--Casa -Pilata--Royal Snuff Manufactory--Cannon Foundry--Capuchin -Convent--Murillo--Theatre of Seville--Observations on the State of the -National Drama--Moratin--The Bolero--Spanish Dancing--The Spaniards not -a Musical People 90 - -CHAPTER V. - -Society of Seville--Spanish Women--Faults of Education--Evils of Early -Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance--Environs of Seville--Triana--San -Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce--Ruins of Italica--Italica not so ancient -a City as Hispalis--Young Pigs and the Muses--Departure from -Seville--The Marques De Las Amarillas--Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice -of the Late King of Spain--Alcala De Guadiara--Utrera--Observations on -the Strategical Importance of this Town--Moron--Military operations of -Riego--Apathy of the Serranos during the Civil War--Olbera--Remarks on -the Itinerary of Antoninus 123 - -CHAPTER VI. - -Ronda to Gaucin--Road to Casares--Difficulty in Procuring -Lodgings--Finally Overcome--The Cura's House--View of the Town from the -Ruins of the Castle--Its Great Strength--Ancient Name--Ideas of the -Spaniards regarding Protestants--Scramble to the Summit of the Sierra -Cristellina--Splendid View--Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of -Sketching--The Cura and his Barometer--Departure for the Baths of -Manilba--Romantic Scenery--Accommodation for Visiters--The Master of the -Ceremonies--Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar--River Guadiaro and -Venta 154 - -CHAPTER VII. - -The Baths of Manilba--A Specimen of Fabulous History--Properties of the -Hedionda--Society of the Bathing Village--Remarkable Mountain--An -English Botanist--Town of Manilba--An Intrusive Visiter--Ride to -Estepona--Return by way of Casares 179 - -CHAPTER VIII. - -A Shooting Party to the Mountains--Our Italian Piqueur, Damien -Berrio--Some Account of his Previous Life--Los Barrios--The Beautiful -Maid, and the Maiden's Levelling Sire--Road to Sanona--Reparation -against Bandits--Arrival at the Caseria--Description of its Owner and -Accommodations--Fine Scenery--A Batida 202 - -CHAPTER IX. - -Luis de Castro 226 - -CHAPTER X. - -Don Luis's Narrative is interrupted by a Boar--The Batida -resumed--Departure from Sanona--Road to Casa Vieja--The Priest's -House--Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants--Departure from Casa -Vieja--Alcala De Los Gazules--Road to Ximena--Return to -Gibraltar 249 - -CHAPTER XI. - -Departure for Madrid--Cordon drawn round the Cholera--Ronda--Road to -Cordoba--Teba--Erroneous Position of the Place on the Spanish Maps--Its -Locality agrees with that of Ategua, as described by Hirtius, and the -Course of the River Guadaljorce with that of the Salsus--Road to -Campillos--The English-loving Innkeeper and his Wife--An Alcalde's -Dinner spoilt--Fuente De Piedra--Astapa--Puente Don -Gonzalo--Rambla--Cordoba--Meeting with an old Acquaintance 267 - -CHAPTER XII. - -History of Blas El Guerrillero--_continued_ 294 - -CHAPTER XIII. - -Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid--Death of King -Ferdinand--Change in our Plans--Road to -Andujar--Alcolea--Montoro--Porcuna--Andujar--Arjono--Torre -Ximeno--Difficulty of Gaining Admission--Success of a -Stratagem--Consternation of the Authorities--Spanish Adherence to -Forms--Contrasts--Jaen--Description of the Castle, City, and -Cathedral--La Santa Faz--Road to Granada--Our Knightly -Attendant--Parador de San Rafael--Hospitable Farmer--Astonishment of the -Natives--Granada--El Soto de Roma--Loja--Venta de -Dornejo--Colmenar--Fine Scenery--Road from Malaga to Antequera, and -Description of that City 325 - -CHAPTER XIV. - -Malaga--Excursion of Marbella and -Monda--Churriana--Benalmania--Fuengirola--Discrepancy of Opinion -respecting the Site of Suel--Scale to be adopted, in order to make the -measurements given in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with the Actual -Distance from Malaga to Carteia--Errors of Carter--Castle of -Fuengirola--Road to Marbella--Tower and Casa Fuertes--Disputed Site of -Salduba--Description of Marbella--Abandoned Mines--Distance to -Gibraltar 363 - -CHAPTER XV. - -A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain--Road to -Monda--Secluded Valley of Ojen--Monda--Discrepancy of Opinion respecting -the Site of the Roman City of Munda--Ideas of Mr. Carter on the -Subject--Reasons adduced for concluding that Modern Monda occupies the -Site of the Ancient City--Assumed Positions of the Contending Armies of -Cneius Pompey and Cæsar, in the Vicinity of the Town--Road to -Malaga--Towns of Coin and Alhaurin--Bridge over the Guadaljorce--Return -to Gibraltar--Notable Instance of the Absurdity of Quarantine -Regulations 382 - -CHAPTER XVI. - -The Knight of San Fernando 410 - - -APPENDIX 439 - - - - -EXCURSIONS - -IN THE - -MOUNTAINS - -OF - -RONDA AND GRANADA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - DEPARTURE FROM CORDOBA--POST-ROAD TO - CADIZ--CARLOTA--ECIJA--CARMONA--ROAD FROM ECIJA TO - GIBRALTAR--LOCUSTS--OSUNA--SAUCEJO--AN OLLA IN - PERFECTION--RONDA--SPLENDID SCENERY ON THE ROAD TO - GRAZALEMA--DISTANT VIEW OF ZAHARA--GRAZALEMA--EXTENSIVE PROSPECT - FROM THE PASS OF BOZAL--SECLUDED ORCHARDS OF - BENAMAJAMA--PAJARETE--EL BROQUE--UBRIQUE--DIFFICULT ROAD ACROSS THE - MOUNTAINS TO XIMENA--OUR GUIDE IN A RAGE--FINE - SCENERY--XIMENA--STRENGTH OF ITS CASTLE--ROAD TO GIBRALTAR. - - -On leaving Cordoba, we turned our horses' heads homewards, taking the -_arrecife_, or high road, to Seville and Cadiz. This appears to follow -the _direct_ Roman military way given in detail in the Itinerary of -Antoninus; the distances from station to station, on the modern road, -agreeing perfectly with those specified in the Itinerary, which, as it -runs very straight as far as Ecija, would not be the case if the Roman -road had diverged either to the right or left, as some are disposed to -make it, placing _Adaras_ (one of the intermediate stations) on the -margin of the Guadalquivír. - -Several monuments, bearing inscriptions alluding to this military way, -are preserved at Cordoba. They all describe it as being from the temple -of Janus _to_ the Boetis, (meaning, it must be presumed, the _mouth_ -of the river) and to the ocean. - -The road is no longer paved, as it is described to have been in those -days; but, nevertheless, it is good enough to enable a lumbering -diligence to pulverize the gravel daily on its tedious way between -Madrid and Seville. It is also furnished with relays of post horses,[1] -but the posting establishments being, as in most other countries of -Europe, under the direction of the government, is a satire upon the term -_post haste_. - -From Cordoba to Ecija is ten leagues.[2] The road, on reaching the river -_Badajocillo_, or Guadajoz, which is crossed by a lofty stone bridge, -commanding a fine view of Cordoba, leaves the rich alluvial valley of -the Guadalquivír, and enters upon an undulated tract of country, that -extends nearly all the way to Ecija. At three leagues is the scattered -village and post-house of Mango-negro, and three leagues beyond that -again, the settlement of Carlota. The ride is most uninteresting; as, -besides being tamely outlined and thinly peopled, the country is nearly -destitute of wood, and, in the summer season, of water; though, judging -from the extraordinary number of bridges, especially on drawing near -Carlota, there must be a superabundance in winter. Carlota is one of the -numerous villages which Charles the Third colonized from the Tyrol. It -consists principally of isolated cottages, standing some hundred yards -apart, and the same distance from the road; but there is a small -congregation of houses round the chapel, post-house, and _Casa del -Ayuntamiento_,[3] and a _Gasthof_, which I can say, from personal -experience, would do no discredit to Innsbruck itself. - -The parish contains 250 houses, and a population of 1500 souls. The -fields round Carlota certainly appear to be better tilled than those in -other parts of the country, and there is a German tidiness about its -white cottages, as well as a platterfacedness about the little -white-headed urchins assembled round the doors, that are quite -anti-Spanish. - -We obtained an excellent dinner at the _Tyroler Adler_, and, in the -afternoon, taking a by-road that struck off from the post route to the -right, cantered through plantations of olives nearly all the way to -Ecija,--four leagues. In the whole of the distance we did not see a drop -of running water, until we arrived on the brow of the hill overlooking -the river Genil. From this spot there is a fine view of the city of -Ecija, situated on the opposite bank. - -The volume of the Genil increases but little between Granada and Ecija; -for its principal feeders, though falling into it below Granada, are -expended in irrigating the _vega_; and the _salados_, on the western -side of the _Serranía de Ronda_, are mostly dry during the summer. In -winter, however, the Genil is so increased, that the bridge at Ecija (a -solid stone structure of eleven arches,) is carried quite across the -valley, although the bed of the river is not above 100 yards wide. - -Ecija is the Astigi of the Romans. It stands on a gentle acclivity, some -little distance from the Genil, and bears evident marks of antiquity. -Almost all traces of its walls have disappeared, however; and what -little remains of its tapia-built castle shows it to have been a work of -the Moors. The principal streets are wide, and contain many good houses; -and the _plaza_ is particularly well worth a visit from the lovers of -the picturesque. - -The city contains sixteen convents, and two hospitals, with churches in -proportion. None of them offers much to interest the protestant -traveller; but, I believe, several boast of possessing valuable relics. -The Royal stud-house is fast going to decay. - -The population of Ecija is estimated at 30,000 souls; a number that -appears totally disproportioned to the size of the city; particularly, -as it contains but a few tanneries, and trifling manufactories of shoes, -saddlery, &c. But, from the extreme fertility of the soil in its -neighbourhood--considered the most productive and best cultivated in -Andalusia--it is very possible this amount may not be exaggerated; for -in Spain the agriculturalists do not scatter themselves about in small -villages and hamlets over its surface, as in other countries, but -assemble together in large towns; so that those places which are -situated in fertile districts are as densely populated as our -manufacturing towns. - -The distance that a Spanish peasant sometimes travels daily, to and from -his work, is truly surprising, in a people that, generally speaking, -like to save themselves trouble. Whilst getting in the harvest, however, -they erect _ranchas_, or rush huts, to shelter them from the midday sun -and night dews, and dwell in these temporary habitations until their -work is completed. - -The crops of corn in the neighbourhood of Ecija are remarkably fine, -yielding forty to one, and though not so tall, perhaps, as those of the -_vega_ of Granada, the grains are larger and better ripened. - -I must not omit to say a good word for the _Posada_,--the -Post-house,--which I do the more willingly from being so seldom called -upon to speak in terms of commendation of Spanish "houses of -entertainment." Suffice it to observe, that, provided the traveller be -very hungry, and moderately fatigued, he may reckon on getting a supper -that he will be able to eat, and a bed whereon--albeit hard--he may -obtain some hours' unmolested repose. - -The remainder of the post road to Seville is so perfectly uninteresting, -that, reserving the Andalusian capital for a future tour, I shall take a -more direct route back to Gibraltar, through the _Serranía_ de Ronda; -merely offering a few remarks on the town of Carmona, which is situated -about two thirds of the way between Ecija and Seville, and referring my -readers to the Itinerary in the Appendix for any further details as to -the distances from place to place along the road. - -Carmona is one of the few Roman towns of Boetica of whose identity -there is scarcely a doubt; its name having undergone little or no -change. It is mentioned by most of the ancient writers, and called by -them, indifferently, Carmo and Carmona, and by Julius Cæsar was esteemed -one of the strongest posts in the whole country. Its position, -considered relatively with the adjacent ground, is, indeed, most -commanding; being on the edge of a vast plateau of very elevated land, -which, stretching many miles to the south, falls abruptly along the -course of the river Corbones. - -The Roman name for this river is, I think, doubtful. Florez, and most -antiquaries, suppose it to be the _Silicensis_. Some, and, as it appears -to me, with better reason, give that name to the Badajocillo. Be that as -it may, the Corbones is but an inconsiderable stream, and is now crossed -by a stone bridge of three arches. - -The ascent to Carmona is very steep and tedious. The city is entered -through a triumphal Roman arch, which was repaired and spoilt by order -of Charles III. Another Roman gateway stands at the southern extremity -of the town, by which the road to Seville leaves it; and various parts -of the walls which yet encompass the place are the work of the same -people. The castle, however, is a relique of the Moors, and in a very -ruinous condition. - -This stronghold was wrested from the Moors by San Fernando, after a six -months' investment. It was a favourite place of residence of Peter, -surnamed the Cruel, who, looking upon it as impregnable, left his -children there in fancied security when he took the field for the last -time against his brother. Soon after Peter's death, however, it fell -into the hands of his rival, who, according to some accounts, caused the -children (his nephews) to be put to death in cold blood. - -The streets of Carmona are wide, clean, and well-paved; and the alameda -is enchanting, commanding a superb view of the ruined fortress, and over -the rich vales of the Corbones, and more distant Guadalquivír, and -embracing, at the same time, the whole chain of the Ronda mountains to -the eastward. - -The population of the place is about 10,000 souls. The inn is execrable. - -The post road to Cadiz is directed from Carmona on Alcalà de Guadiara, -where a branch to Seville strikes off, nearly at a right angle, to the -east, thereby making a considerable détour. But in summer, carriages -even may proceed to Seville by a cross road, which not only lessens the -dust, but reduces the distance from six _long_ to the same number of -_short_ leagues; or, in other words, effects a saving of about three -miles. - -I now return to Ecija, and take the road from that city to Osuna; which -is tolerably good, and practicable for carriages during the greater part -of the year. The distance is five (very long) leagues. The country -presents a slightly undulated surface, and, excepting round the edges of -some basins wherein extensive lakes have been formed, is altogether -under the plough. At a little distance from the road, on the left hand, -a stream, called _El Salado_, flows towards the Genil. It does not -communicate with these lakes, nor has the name it bears been given from -its being impregnated with salt. - -During our ride, we observed a number of men advancing in skirmishing -order across the country, and thrashing the ground most savagely with -long flails. Curious to know what could be the motive for this -Xerxes-like treatment of the earth, we turned out of the road to inspect -their operations, and found they were driving a swarm of locusts into a -wide piece of linen spread on the ground at some distance before them, -wherein they were made prisoners. These animals are about three times -the size of an English grasshopper. They migrate from Africa, and their -spring visits are very destructive; for in a single night they will -entirely eat up a field of young corn. - -The _Caza de Langostas_[4] is a very profitable business to the -peasantry; as, besides a reward obtained from the proprietor of the soil -in consideration for service done, they sell the produce of their -_chasse_ for manure at so much a sack. - -Osuna is generally admitted to be the Urso,[5] Ursao, and Ursaon, of the -Roman historians; though it agrees in no one particular with the -description given of that place by Hirtius; for it is not by any means -"strong by nature;" it is in the vicinity of extensive -forests--rendering it perfectly absurd to suppose that Cæsar's troops -"had to bring wood thither all the way from Munda;"--and, so far from -"there being no rivulet within eight miles of the place,"[6] a fine -stream meanders under its very walls. - -The town is situated at the foot of a hill that screens it effectually -to the eastward, and the summit of which is occupied by an old castle of -considerable strength and size, but now fast crumbling to decay. The -streets are wide and well paved, the houses particularly good;--indeed, -some of the palaces of the provincial nobility (with whom it was -formerly a favourite place of residence) are strikingly handsome; in -particular, that of the Duke who takes his title from the city; and -notwithstanding that the streets are overgrown with grass, and the -houses covered with mildew, I am, nevertheless, disposed to call Osuna -the best built and handsomest city in Andalusia, it contains a -university, fourteen convents, for both sexes, and a population of -16,000 souls; but has little or no trade--in fact, though on the -crossing of two high roads, (viz., from Gibraltar to Madrid, and from -Granada to Seville) it has all the dullness of a secluded country -village. - -The vicinity is very fruitful in olives and corn; the soil is a whitish -clay. To the S.E. the country is tolerably level all the way to -Antequera, and to the west is nearly flat to Seville; but at about a -mile southward from the city, shoot up the entangled roots of the -mountains of Ronda, presenting on that side a belt of very intricate -country. There are two roads to that place, the distance by the better, -which, I think, is also rather the shorter, of the two, is nine leagues. -It leaves Osuna by the gate of Granada, and, crossing the -before-mentioned stream (which is one of the sources of the Corbones), -advances some distance along a wide olive-planted valley. It then quits -the great road to Granada (which continues along the valley), and -ascends a steep and very long hill, from the crest of which, distant -about three miles from Osuna, there is a splendid view of the city, and -of the spacious plains extending to and bordering the distant -Guadalquivír, studded with the towns of Marchena, Fuentes, Palmar, and -Carmona. - -The road continues along the summit of the elevated range of hills which -it has now attained, for about five miles, winding amongst some -singularly mammillated hummocks, that have very much the appearance of -the tumuli left in an exhausted mining country. A succession of strongly -marked and peculiarly rugged ravines present themselves along the -eastern side of the ridge, and the ground falls also very abruptly in -the opposite direction; but to the south, whither the road is directed, -the descent is much more gradual; and from the foot of the hill, which -is bathed by a rivulet wending its way to the Genil, the country is -tolerably level, and the road extremely good the remaining distance to -Saucejo. - -In former days, this route was practicable for carriages throughout, and -with very little labour it might again be made so; but, though the high -road from the capital to Algeciras and Gibraltar, it is but little -travelled. The other road from Osuna to Ronda joins in here on the -right. - -The village of Saucejo is a post station three leagues from Osuna, and -six from Ronda. It contains some eight hundred inhabitants, great -abundance of stabling, but not one decent house. The posada is a -peculiarly unpromising establishment, and the landlady's face such as to -shut out all hope of any sound wine being found within its influence. We -had left Osuna so late in the day, however, that it would have been vain -to attempt reaching Ronda ere nightfall. - -We, therefore, reluctantly took possession of the _sala_, and, -presenting our sour-faced hostess with a rabbit and some partridges that -we had purchased on the road, asked if she could furnish the other -requisites for the concorporation of an _olla_, and whether it would be -possible to let us have our meal ere midnight; to both of which -questions, with sundry consequential nods of the head, she replied -severally, _en casa llena, presto se guisa la cena_.[7] Notwithstanding -this assurance, our supper was long in making its appearance, for the -operations of an _olla_ cannot be hurried. But, when it did come, it -bespoke our landlady to be a _cordon bleu_ of the first class; the -_pimento_[8] had been administered with judgment; the _berza_[9] had -duly extracted the flavour from the rabbit and partridges; the -_chorizo_[10] had imparted but the desirable smack of garlic to the -other ingredients; and the nutty savour of the _tocino_[11] was beyond -all praise. Nor was her wine such as we had expected; though somewhat -too light to have much influence on the digestion of the unctuous mess -placed before us. - -From Saucejo the road again branches into two, one route proceeding by -way of Almargen, the other by the Venta del Granadal. Both are -_reckoned_ six leagues; but the last mentioned is better than the other, -as well as shorter by several miles. It crosses a considerable stream -(here called the Algamitas, but which is, in fact, the main source of -the Corbones) by a ford, about three miles from Saucejo. The descent to -the stream is very bad, and, after keeping along its bank for another -mile, the road mounts to some elevated table land, from which the view -to the westward is obstructed by the rocky peaks of two detached -mountains about a mile off. These may be considered the outposts of the -Serranía in that direction; and, on the rough side of the more -considerable of the two, is the _Hermita de Caños Santos_. - -The country becomes very wild as the road advances, and rugged tors, -partially covered with wood, rise on all sides. At nine miles from -Saucejo is the lone venta of Grañadal, and beyond it the mountains rise -to a yet greater height, but their slopes are less abrupt, and are -covered with forests of oak and cork. At twelve miles a track branches -off to the right, proceeding to the little town of Alcalà del Valle, -which, though distant only about half a mile, is not visible from the -road. Soon after, a wide valley opens to the view, at the bottom of -which, encased by steep rocky banks, flows the river _Guadalete_. This -river is by some considered the _Lethe_ of the ancients; but, if it be -so, our long-cherished notions of the beauty of the Elysian fields have -been wofully faulty, for the country is rather tame, and the soil stony -and ungrateful. Thus far, however, it answers the description of Virgil, -that you - - "Breathe in ample fields the soft Elysian air." - -The town of Setenil is perched on a crag overhanging the left bank of -the Guadalete, and distant about three miles from the road, which keeps -under the broad summit of the hills forming the northern boundary of -Elysium. The sides of these are partially cultivated, and, from time to -time, a low cottage is met with as the road proceeds; but it soon enters -a cork-forest, and, threading its dark mazes for about four miles, -gradually gains the crest of the chain of hills overlooking the vale of -Ronda to the north, whence a splendid view is obtained of the fertile -basin, its rock-built fortress, and jagged sierras. - -The descent on the southern side of the hills is rather rapid, and, -after proceeding downwards about a mile, the road is joined on the left -by the other route from Saucejo. From hence to Ronda is two short -leagues. The road still continues descending for another mile; and, in -the course of the two following, it crosses three deep ravines, watered -by copious streams, and planted with all sorts of fruit-trees. - -In the bottom of one of these dells is ensconced the village of Arriate. -The last is a deep and very singular rent that extends, east and west, -quite across the basin of Ronda. Immediately after crossing this -fissure, the road begins to ascend the range of hills whereon Ronda is -situated, and, after winding for three miles amongst vineyards, olive -grounds, and corn-fields, enters the city on its north side. - -We were seven hours performing the journey, although the distance is but -six _leguas regulares_. - -I have already given so full a description of Ronda, that I will pass on -without further remark. - -To vary the scenery, and moved by curiosity to visit some of the scenes -of our acquaintance Blas's exploits, we determined to take a somewhat -circuitous route homewards, by way of Grazalema and Ubrique. - -The distance to the first named town is three long leagues. The road -descends gradually to the south-western extremity of the basin of Ronda, -where the Guadiaro, forming its junction with the Rio Verde, enters a -rocky defile, and is lost sight of amidst the roots of the rugged -sierras that spread themselves in all directions towards the -Mediterranean. - -Crossing the last named stream just before its confluence with the -Guadiaro, the road at once begins ascending towards a deeply marked gap, -that breaks the ridge of the mountains which rise along the right bank -of the stream. - -The pass is about four miles from Ronda, and commands a splendid view of -the fruitful valley, which lies, like an outspread _cornucopia_, at its -foot. On the other side, too, the scenery is not less fine, though of a -totally different nature. There a singular double-peaked crag rises up -boldly and darkly on the left hand, casting its shadow on the bright -foliage of an oak forest, which, deep sunk below the rest of the -country, spreads its verdant covering as far to the eastward as where -the huge Sierra Endrinal raises its cloud-enveloped head above all the -other mountains of the range. High seated on the side of this, a white -speck is seen which, in the course of time, proves to be the town of -Grazalema, whither we are bending our steps. - -Proceeding onwards, from the pass about a mile, the little village of -Montejaque shows itself, peeping from between the two peaks of the -mountain on the left, and, seemingly, quite inaccessible, even to a -goat. - -It is inhabited by a horde of half-tamed Saracens, who pride themselves -greatly on having foiled all the attempts of the French to make -themselves masters of the place;[12] and, as this elevated little -village is but three quarters of a mile from the high road, (which is -the principal communication between Malaga and Cadiz) it must have -possessed the means of annoying the enemy considerably. - -For the next two miles our way lay along the spine of a somewhat -elevated ridge; whence we looked down upon the before-mentioned wooded -country on one side, and on the other into a well cultivated valley. -From the bed of this, but at several leagues' distance, the rock-built -town of Zahara rears its embattled head. - -This little fortress is very noted in Moorish history; its capture by -Muley Aben Hassan, during a period of truce, having provoked the renewal -of the war which led to the loss of the crown, not only to himself -first, but to his race afterwards. - -One of the sources of the Guadalete flows in this valley, bathing the -walls of Zahara, which stands on the site of the Roman town of -Lastigi.[13] The present name, I should imagine, (considering the -locality) is derived rather from the Arabic word _Zaharat_ (mountain -top) than _Z[=a]hara_, (flowery) as supposed by Mr. Carter; for the -streets are cut out of the live rock on which the place is built. - -The road to Grazalema, now mounting another step, enters a dark forest, -and, continuing for five miles along the top of a narrow ridge, descends -into a vine-clad valley, that spreads out at the foot of the rough -sierra on the side of which Grazalema is seated. - -The ascent to the town is very bad, and is rendered worse than it -otherwise would be by being paved--for a paved road in Spain is sure to -be neglected. We scrambled up with much difficulty, and alighting at the -posada, remained for an hour or two, to procure some breakfast, and -examine the place. - -It is a singularly built town, the streets being heaped one above -another, like steps; and in several instances they are even worked out -of the native rock. There is, nevertheless, a fine open market-place, -which we found well supplied with fruit, vegetables, and game, including -venison and wild boar; and the town possesses several manufactories of -coarse cloths and serges. - -From its situation, immediately over the mouth of a deep ravine, by -which alone access can be obtained to one of the principal passes in the -Serranía, Grazalema occupies a very important military position, and may -be considered almost inassailable; for, whilst at its back a perfectly -impracticable mountain covers it from attack, it is protected to the -north and east by the precipitous ravine it overlooks; up the side of -which, even the narrow road from Ronda has not been practised without -much labour. The only side, therefore, on which it has to apprehend -danger, is that fronting the pass above it--i.e. to the westward. But it -has the means of offering an obstinate resistance, even in that -direction. - -Commanding, as it thus does, so important a passage over the mountains, -there can be but little doubt that Grazalema stands upon, or near, the -site of some Roman fortress; and, for reasons which I shall hereafter -mention, I feel inclined to place here the town of Ilipa.[14] - -The inhabitants amount to about 6,000, and are a savage, -ruffianly-looking race. During the "War of Independence," assisted by -their brethren of the neighbouring mountain fastnesses, they frequently -rose against their invaders, driving them out of the place; and on one -occasion they repulsed a French column of several thousand men, which -was sent to dispossess them of their stronghold. - -On leaving Grazalema, the road enters the narrow, rock-bound ravine -leading up to the pass, down which a noisy torrent rushes, leaping from -precipice to precipice, and lashing the base of the crag-built town, -whence we had just issued. A newly-built bridge, whose high-crowned arch -places it beyond the anger of the foaming stream, gives a passage to the -road to Zahara, which winds along the eastern face of the Sierra del -Pinar. Our route, however, continues ascending yet a mile and a half -along the right bank of the torrent, ere it reaches the long descried -gap in the mountain chain, the name of which is _El Puerto Bozal_. - -This is considered one of the most elevated passes in the whole Serranía -de Ronda, and must be at least 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. -The mountains on either side rise to a far greater elevation; that on -the right, distinguished by the name of _El Pico de San Cristoval_, is -said (as has already been stated) to have been the first land made by -Columbus on his return from the discovery of the "New World." - -The views from this pass are truly grand. At our backs lay the -beautifully wooded country we had travelled over in the morning--Ronda -and its vale, and the distant sierras of El Burgo and Casarabonela. -Before us, a wild mountain country extended for several miles; and -beyond, spreading as far as the eye could reach, were the vast plains of -Arcos, through which the gladdening Guadalete, winding its way past -Xeres, turns to seek the bay of Cadiz, whose glassy surface the white -walls of its proud mistress, and the deep blue ocean, could be seen -distinctly on the left, though at a distance of more than fifty miles. - -From the Puerto Bozal, a _trocha_, directed straight upon Ubrique, -strikes off to the left; but the saving in point of distance which this -road offers, is counterbalanced by its extreme ruggedness. We, -therefore, took the more circuitous route to that place by El Broque, -which, for the first five miles, is itself sufficiently bad to satisfy -most people. The views along it, looking to the south, are very fine; -but the lofty barren range of San Cristoval, on the side of which it is -conducted, shuts out the prospect in the opposite direction. - -At length, crossing over a narrow tongue that protrudes from the side of -the rugged mountain, we entered a dark, wooded ravine, and began to -descend very rapidly, and, to our astonishment, by a very good road. -After proceeding in this way about a mile, the valley gradually -expanding, we emerged from the wood, and found ourselves in a -sequestered glen of surpassing loveliness. A neat white chapel, with a -picturesque belfry, stood on a sloping green bank on our right hand, -and, scattered in all directions about it, were the trim, vine-clad -cottages of its frequenters, each screened partially from the sun in a -grove of almond, cherry, and orange trees. A crystal stream gurgled -through the fruitful dell, which was bounded at some little distance by -high wooded hills and rocky cliffs. - -This secluded retreat is called _La Huerta[15] de Benamajáma_,--the -peculiarly guttural name proving it to have been a little earthly -paradise of the Moors. - -The road, which had thus far been nearly west, here, continuing along -the course of the little river Posadas, turns to the south; and, keeping -under a range of wooded hills on the left hand, in about an hour reaches -El Broque. This portion of the road is very good, and from it, looking -over the great plain bordering the Guadalete, may be seen the lofty -tower of _Pajarete_, perched on a conical mound, at about a league's -distance. The justly celebrated sweet wine called by this name was -originally produced from the vineyards in its vicinity, but it is now -made principally at Xeres. - -El Broque is a small clean town, abounding in wood and water, and -containing from 1500 to 2000 inhabitants. To the east it is overshadowed -by a range of lofty, wooded hills, which may be considered the last -buttresses of the Serranía; for the road to Cadiz, which here branches -off to the right, crossing the Posadas, traverses an uninterrupted plain -all the way to Arcos. - -The route to Ubrique, on the other hand, again strikes into the -mountains; though, for yet two miles further, it follows the course of -the little river and its impending sierra. Arrived, however, at the -mouth of a ravine, which brings down another mountain-torrent to the -plain, it turns to the north, keeping along the margin of the stream, -until the bridge of Tavira offers the means of passage; when, crossing -to the opposite bank, it once more enters the intricate belt of -mountains. - -The name of the stream which is here crossed is the Majaceite; and on -its right bank, close to the bridge, is a solitary venta. The scenery is -extremely beautiful. The mountains of Grazalema, which we had traversed -in the morning, form the background; the ruined tower of Alamada, -perched on an isolated knoll, stands boldly forward in middle distance; -and close at hand are the rough, coppiced banks and crystal current of -the winding Majaceite. - -From hence to Ubrique the country is very wild and rugged. The town is -first seen (when about a league off) from the summit of a round-topped -hill, six miles from El Broque. It is nestled in the bottom of a deep -valley, hemmed in by singularly rugged mountains. The first part of the -descent is gradual, but a steep neck of land must be crossed ere -reaching the town; and, as if to render the approach as difficult as -possible, the road over this mound has been paved. - -Amongst the rude masses of sierra that encompass Ubrique, numerous -rivulets pierce their way to the lowly valley, where, collected in two -streams, they are conducted to the town, and, fertilizing the ground in -its neighbourhood, cause it to be encircled by a belt of most luxuriant -vegetation. The mountains in the vicinity abound also in lead-mines, but -they are no longer worked. "Where are we to find money? Where are we to -look for security?" were the answers given to _my_ question, "Why not?" - -The streets of Ubrique are wide, clean, and well paved; the houses lofty -and good; but the inn, alas! affords the wearied traveller little more -than bare walls and a wooden floor. The population of the place may be -estimated at 8000 souls. It contains some tanneries, water-mills, and -manufactories of hats and coarse cloths. It does not strike me as being -a likely site for a Roman city. - -We were on horseback by daybreak, having before us a long ride, and, for -the first five leagues (to Ximena), a very difficult country to -traverse. For about a mile the road is paved, and confined to the vale -in which Ubrique stands by a precipitous mountain. But, the westernmost -point of this ridge turned, the route to Ximena (leaving a road to -Alcalà de los Gazules on the right) takes a more southerly direction -than heretofore, and, entering a hilly country, soon dwindles into a -mere mule-track. Ere proceeding far in this direction, another road -branches off to Cortes, winding up towards some cragged eminences that -serrate the mountain-chain on the left. The path to Ximena, however, -continues yet two miles further across the comparatively undulated -country below, which thus far is under cultivation; but, on gaining the -summit of a hill, distant about four miles from Ubrique, a complete -change takes place in the face of the country; the view opening upon a -wide expanse of forest, furrowed by numerous deep ravines, and studded -with rugged tors. - -The road through this overshadowed labyrinth is continually mounting and -descending the slippery banks of the countless torrents that intersect -it, twisting and winding in every direction; and, on gaining the heart -of the forest, the path is crossed and cut up by such numbers of -timber-tracks, and is screened from the sun's cheering rays by so -impervious a covering, that the difficulty of choosing a path amongst -the many which presented themselves was yet further increased by that of -determining the point of the compass towards which they were -respectively directed. - -The guide we had brought with us, though pretending to be thoroughly -acquainted with every pathway in the forest, was evidently as much at a -_nonplus_ as we ourselves were; and his muttered _malditos_ and -_carajos_, like the rolling of distant thunder, announced the coming of -a storm. At length it burst forth: the track he had selected, after -various windings, led only to the stump of a venerable oak. Never was -mortal in a more towering passion; he snatched his hat from his head, -threw it on the ground, and stamped upon it, swearing by, or at--for we -could hardly distinguish which--all the saints in the calendar. After -enjoying this scene for some time, we spread ourselves in different -directions in search of the beaten track; and, at last, a swineherd, -attracted by our calls to each other, came to our deliverance; and our -guide, after bestowing sundry _malditos_ upon the wood, the torrents, -the timber-tracks, and those who made them, resumed his wonted state of -composure, assuring us, that there was some accursed hobgoblin in this -_hi-de-puta_ forest, who took delight in leading good Catholics astray; -that during the war an entire regiment, misled by some such -_malhechor_,[16] had been obliged to bivouac there for the night, to the -great detriment of his very Catholic Majesty's service. - -Soon after this little adventure we reached a solitary house, called the -_Venta de Montera_, which is something more than half way between -Ubrique and Ximena; _i.e._ eleven miles from the former, and nine from -the latter. A little way beyond this the road reaches an elevated chain -of hills, that separates the rivers Sogarganta and Guadiaro; the summit -of which being rather a succession of peaks than a continuous ridge, -occasions the track to be conducted sometimes along the edge of one -valley, sometimes of the other. The mountain falls very ruggedly to the -first-named river, but in one magnificent sweep to the Guadiaro. - -The views on both sides are extremely fine; that on the left hand -embraces Gibraltar's cloud-wrapped peaks, the mirror-like Mediterranean, -Spain's prison-fortress of Ceuta, and the blue mountains of Mauritanía; -the other looks over the silvery current of the Sogarganta, winding -amidst the roots of a peculiarly wild and wooded country, and towards -the rock-built little fortress of Castellar. - -The road continues winding along this elevated heather-clad ridge for -four miles, and then descends by rapid zig-zags towards Ximena. - -The town lies crouching under the shelter of a rocky ledge, that, -detached from the rest of the sierra, and crowned with the ruined towers -of an ancient castle, forms a bold and very picturesque feature in the -view, looking southward. The town is nearly a mile in length, and -consists principally of two long narrow streets, one extending from -north to south quite through it, the other leading up to the castle. The -rest of the _callejones_[17] are disposed in steps up the steep side of -the impending hill, and can be reached only on foot. - -The old castle--in great part Roman, but the superstructure Moorish--is -accessible only on the side of the town (east), and in former days must -have been almost impregnable. The narrow-ridged ledge whereon it stands -has been levelled, as far as was practicable, to give capacity to this -citadel, which is 400 yards in length, and varies in breadth from 50 to -80. It rises gently, so as to form two hummocks at its extremities; and -the narrowest part of the inclosure being towards the centre, it has -very much the form of a calabash. - -A strongly built circular tower, mounting artillery, and enclosed by an -irregular loop-holed work of some strength, occupies the southern peak -of the ridge; and a fort of more modern structure, but feeble profile, -covers that in which it terminates to the north. An irregularly indented -wall, or in some places scarped rock, connects these two retrenched -works along the eastern side of the ridge; but, in the opposite -direction, the cliff falls precipitously to the river Sogarganta; -rendering any artificial defences, beyond a slight parapet wall, quite -superfluous. - -Numerous vaulted tanks and magazines afforded security to the ammunition -and provisions of the isolated little citadel; but they are now in a -wretched state, as well as the outworks generally; for the fortress was -partially blown up by Ballasteros, (A.D. 1811) upon his abandoning it, -on the approach of the French, to seek a surer protection under the guns -of Gibraltar. - -In exploring the ruined tanks of this old Moorish fortress, chance -directed our footsteps to an unfrequented spot where some smugglers were -in treaty with a revenue _guarda_, touching the amount of bribe to be -given for his connivance at the entry of sundry mule loads of contraband -goods into the town on the following night. - -We did not pry so curiously into the proceedings of the contracting -parties, as to ascertain the precise sum demanded by this faithful -servant of the crown for the purchase of his acquiescence to the -proposed arrangement, but, from the elevated shoulders, outstretched -arms, and down-stretched mouth, of one of the negociators, it was -evident that the demand was considered unconscionable; and the roguish -countenance of the custom-house shark as clearly expressed in reply, -"But do you count for nothing the sacrifice of principle I make?" - -From the ruined ramparts of Fort Ballasteros (the name by which the -northern retrenched work of the fortress is distinguished) the view -looking south is remarkably fine. The keep of the ancient castle, -enclosed by its comparatively modern outworks, and occupying the extreme -point of the narrow rocky ledge whereon we were perched, stands boldly -out from the adjacent mountains; whilst, deep sunk below, the tortuous -Sogarganta may be traced for miles, wending its way towards the -Almoraima forest. Above this rise the two remarkable headlands of -Gibraltar and Ceuta; the glassy waterline between them marking the -separation of Europe and Africa. - -That Ximena was once a place of importance there can be no doubt, since -it gave the title of King to Abou Melic, son of the Emperor of Fez; and -that it was a Roman station (though the name is lost,) is likewise -sufficiently proved, as well by the walls of the castle, as by various -inscriptions which have been discovered in the vicinity. At the present -day, it is a poor and inconsiderable town, whose inhabitants, amounting -to about 8000, are chiefly employed in smuggling and agriculture. - -On issuing from the town, the road to Gibraltar crosses the Sogarganta, -having on its left bank, and directly under the precipitous southern -cliff of the castle rock, the ruins of an immense building, erected some -sixty years back, for the purpose of casting shot for the siege of -Gibraltar! - -The distance from Ximena to the English fortress is 25 miles. The road -was, in times past, practicable for carriages throughout; and even now -is tolerably good, though the bridges are not in a state to drive over. -It is conducted along the right bank of the Sogarganta; at six miles, is -joined by a road that winds down from the little town of Castellar on -the right; and, at eight, enters the Almoraima forest by the "Lion's -Mouth," of which mention has already been made. The river, repelled by -the steep brakes of the forest, winds away to the eastward to seek the -Guadiaro and Genil. - -Here I will take a temporary leave of my readers, to seek a night's -lodging at a cottage in the neighbourhood, which, being frequented by -some friends and myself in the shooting season, we knew could furnish us -with clean beds and a _gazpacho_. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - DEPARTURE FOR CADIZ--ROAD ROUND THE BAY OF - GIBRALTAR--ALGECIRAS--SANDY BAY--GUALMESI--TARIFA--ITS - FOUNDATION--ERROR OF MARIANA IN SUPPOSING IT TO BE CARTEIA--BATTLE - OF EL SALADO--MISTAKE OF LA MARTINIERE CONCERNING IT--ITINERARY OF - ANTONINUS FROM CARTEIA TO GADES VERIFIED--CONTINUATION OF - JOURNEY--VENTAS OF TAVILLA AND RETIN--VEJER--CONIL--SPANISH METHOD - OF EXTRACTING GOOD FROM EVIL--TUNNY FISHERY--BARROSA--FIELD OF - BATTLE--CHICLANA--ROAD TO CADIZ--PUENTE ZUAZO--SAN FERNANDO--TEMPLE - OF HERCULES--CASTLE OF SANTI PETRI--ITS IMPORTANCE TO CADIZ. - - -Hoping that the taste of my readers, like my own, leads them to prefer -the motion of a horse to that of a ship, the chance of being robbed to -that of being sea-sick, and the savoury smell of an _olla_ to the greasy -odour of a steam engine, I purpose in my next excursion to conduct them -to Cadiz by the rude pathway practised along the rocky shore of the -Straits of Gibraltar, and thence, "_inter æstuaria Bætis_," to Seville, -instead of proceeding to those places by the more rapid and now -generally adopted means of fire and water. From the last named "fair -city" we will return homewards by another passage through the mountains -of Ronda. - -To authorise _me_--a mere scribbler of notes and journals--to assume the -plural _we_, that gives a Delphic importance to one's opinions (but -under whose shelter I gladly seek to avoid the charge of egotism), I -must state that a friend bore me company on this occasion; our two -servants, with well stuffed saddle-bags and _alforjas_, "bringing up the -rear." - -Proceeding along the margin of the bay of Gibraltar, leaving -successively behind us the ruins of Fort St. Philip, which a few years -since gave security to the right flank of the lines drawn across the -Isthmus in front of the British fortress; the crumbling tower of -_Cartagena_, or _Recadillo_, which, during the seven centuries of Moslem -sway, served as an _atalaya_, or beacon, to convey intelligence along -the coast between Algeciras and Malaga; and, lastly, the scattered -fragments of the yet more ancient city of Carteia, we arrive at the -river Guadaranque. - -The stream is so deep as to render a ferry-boat necessary. That in use -is of a most uncouth kind, and so low waisted that "Almanzor," who was -ever prone to gad amongst the Spanish lady Rosinantes, could not be -deterred from showing his gallantry to some that were collected on the -opposite side of the river, by leaping "clean out" of the boat before it -was half way over. Fortunately, we had passed the deepest part of the -stream, so that I escaped with a foot-bath only. - -The road keeps close to the shore for about a mile and a half, when it -reaches the river Palmones, which is crossed by a similarly -ill-contrived ferry. From hence to Algeciras is three miles, the first -along the sea-beach, the remainder by a carriage-road, conducted some -little distance inland to avoid the various rugged promontories which -now begin to indent the coast, and to dash back in angry foam the -hitherto gently received caresses of the flowing tide. - -The total distance from Gibraltar to Algeciras, following the sea-shore, -is nine English miles; but straight across the bay it is barely five. - -Algeciras, supposed to be the Tingentera of the ancients, and by some -the Julia Traducta of the Romans, received its present name from the -Moors--_Al chazira_, the island. In the days of the Moslem domination, -it became a place of great strength and importance; and when the power -of the Moors of Spain began to wane, was one of the towns ceded to the -Emperor of Fez, to form a kingdom for his son, Abou Melic, in the hope -of presenting a barrier that would check the alarming progress of the -Christian arms. From that time it became a constant object of -contention, and endured many sieges. The most memorable was in 1342-4, -during which cannon were first brought into use by its defenders. It, -nevertheless, fell to the irresistible Alfonso XI., after a siege of -twenty months. - -At that period, the town stood on the right bank of the little river -Miel (instead of on the left, as at present), where traces of its walls -are yet to be seen; but its fortifications having shortly afterwards -been razed to the ground by the Moors, the place fell to decay, and the -present town was built so late as in 1760. It is unprotected by walls, -but is sheltered from attack on the sea-side by a rocky little island, -distant 800 yards from the shore. This island is crowned with batteries -of heavy ordnance, and has, on more occasions than one, been found an -"ugly customer" to deal with. The anchorage is to the north of the -island, and directly in front of the town. - -The streets of Algeciras are wide and regularly built, remarkably well -paved, and lined with good houses; but it is a sun-burnt place, without -a tree to shelter, or a drain to purify it. Being the port of -communication between Spain and her _presidario_, Ceuta, as well as the -military seat of government of the _Campo de Gibraltar_, it is a place -of some bustle, and carries on a thriving trade, by means of _felucas_ -and other small craft, with the British fortress. The population may be -reckoned at 8,000 souls, exclusive of a garrison of from twelve to -fifteen hundred men. - -The Spaniards call the rock of Gibraltar _el cuerpo muerto_,[18] from -its resemblance to a corpse; and, viewed from Algeciras, it certainly -does look something like a human figure laid upon its back, the -northernmost pinnacle forming the head, the swelling ridge between that -and the signal tower, the chest and belly, and the point occupied by -O'Hara's tower the bend of the knees. - -The direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz crosses the most elevated pass -in the wooded mountains that rise at the back of the town, and, from its -excessive asperity, is called "_The Trocha_," the word itself signifying -a _bad_ mountain road. The distance by this route is sixty-two miles; by -Tarifa it is about a league more, and this latter road is not much -better than the other, though over a far lower tract of country. - -On quitting the town, the road, having crossed the river Miel, and -passed over the site of "Old Algeciras," situated on its right bank, -edges away from the coast, and, in about a mile, reaches a hill, whence -an old tower is seen standing on a rocky promontory; which, jutting some -considerable distance into the sea, forms the northern boundary of a -deep and well sheltered bay. The Spanish name for this bight is _La -Ensenada de Getares_; but by us, on account of the high beach of white -sand that edges it, it is called "Sandy bay." It strikes me this must be -the _Portus albus_ of Antoninus's Itinerary, since its distance from -Carteia corresponds exactly with that therein specified, and renders the -rest of the route to Gades _intelligible_, which, otherwise, it -certainly is not. But more of this hereafter. - -Within two miles of Algeciras the road crosses two mountain torrents, -the latter of which, called _El Rio Picaro_[19] (I presume from its -occasional _treacherous_ rise), discharges itself into the bay of -Getares. Thenceforth, the track becomes more rugged, and ascends towards -a pass, (_El puerto del Cabrito_) which connects the _Sierra Santa Ana_ -on the right with a range of hills that, rising to the south, and -closing the view in that direction, shoots its gnarled roots into the -Straits of Gibraltar. - -The views from the pass are very fine--that to the eastward, looking -over the lake-like Mediterranean and towards the snowy sierras of -Granada; the other, down upon the rough features of the Spanish shore, -and towards the yet more rugged mountains of Africa; the still distant -Atlantic stretching away to the left. The former view is shut out -immediately on crossing the ridge: but the other, undergoing pleasing -varieties as one proceeds, continues very fine all the way to Tarifa. - -The road is now very bad, being conducted across the numerous rough -ramifications of the mountains on the right hand, midway between their -summits and the sea. At about seven miles from Algeciras it reaches the -secluded valley of Gualmesi, or Guadalmesi, celebrated for the -crystaline clearness of its springs, and the high flavour of its -oranges; and, crossing the stream, whence the romantic dell takes its -name, directs itself towards the sea-shore, continuing along it the rest -of the way to Tarifa; which place is distant twelve miles from -Algeciras. - -The stratification of the rocks along this coast is very remarkable: the -flat shelving ledges that border it running so regularly in parallel -lines, nearly east and west, as to have all the appearance of artificial -moles for sheltering vessels. It is on the contrary, however, an -extremely dangerous shore to approach. - -The old Moorish battlements of Tarifa abut against the rocky cliff that -bounds the coast; stretching thence to the westward, along, but about 50 -yards from, the sea. It is not necessary, therefore, to enter the -fortress; indeed, one makes a considerable détour in doing so; but -curiosity will naturally lead all Englishmen--who have the -opportunity--to visit the walls so gallantly defended by a handful of -their countrymen during the late war; and those who cannot do so may not -object to read a somewhat minute description of them. - -The town closes the mouth of a valley, bound by two long but slightly -marked moles, protruded from a mountain range some miles distant to the -north; the easternmost of which terminates abruptly along the sea-shore. -The walls extend partly up both these hills; but not far enough to save -the town from being looked into, and completely commanded, within a very -short distance. Their general lines form a quadrangular figure, about -600 yards square; but a kind of horn work projects from the N.E. angle, -furnishing the only good flanking fire that the fortress can boast of -along its north front. Every where else the walls, which are only four -feet and a half thick, are flanked by square towers, themselves hardly -solid enough to bear the _weight_ of artillery, much less its blows. - -At the S.W. angle, but within the enceinte of the fortress, and looking -seawards, there is a small castle, or citadel, the _alcazar_ of its -Moorish governors; and immediately under its machicoulated battlements -is one of the three gateways of the town. The two others are towards the -centre of its western and northern fronts. - -In the attack of 1811, the French made their approaches against the -north front of the town, and effected a breach towards its centre, in -the very lowest part of the bed of the valley; thus most completely -"taking the bull by the horns;" (and Tarifa bulls are not to be trifled -with--as every Spanish _picador_ knows,) since the approach to it was -swept by the fire of the projecting _horn_-work I have before mentioned. - -When the breach was repaired, a marble tablet was inserted in the wall, -bearing a modest inscription in Latin, which states that "this part of -the wall, destroyed by the besieging French, was re-built by the British -defenders in November, 1813." - -When the French again attacked the fortress, in 1823, profiting by past -experience, they established their breaching batteries in a large -convent, distant about 200 yards from the walls on the west front of the -town; and, favouring their assault by a feigned attack on the gate in -its south wall, they carried the place with scarcely any loss. - -The streets of Tarifa are narrow, dark, and crooked; and, excepting that -they are clean, are in every respect Moorish. The inhabitants are rude -in speech and manners, and amount to about 8000. - -From the S.E. salient angle of the town, a sandy isthmus juts about a -thousand yards into the sea, and is connected by a narrow artificial -causeway with a rocky peninsula, or island, as it is more generally -termed, that stretches yet 700 or 800 yards further into the Straits of -Gibraltar. This is the most southerly point of Europe, being in latitude -30° 0' 56", which is nearly six miles to the south of Europa Point. - -The island is of a circular form, and towards the sea is merely defended -by three open batteries, armed _en barbette_; but to the land side, it -presents a bastioned front, that sweeps the causeway with a most -formidable fire. A lighthouse stands at the extreme point of the island, -which also contains a casemated barrack for troops, and some remarkable -old tanks, perhaps of a date much prior to the arrival of the Saracens. - -The foundation of the town of Tarifa is usually ascribed to Tarik Aben -Zaide, the first Mohammedan invader of Spain; who probably, previous to -crossing the Straits, had marked the island as offering a favourable -landing-place, as well as a secure depôt for his stores, and a safe -refuge in the event of a repulse. Mariana, however, imagined, that -Tartessus, or Carteia--which he considered the same place--stood upon -this spot; and, under this persuasion, he speaks of the admiral of the -Pompeian faction retiring there, after his action with Cæsar's fleet, -and drawing a chain across the mouth of the port to protect his -vessels; a circumstance which alone proves that Carteia was not Tarifa; -since it must be evident to any one who has examined the coast -attentively, that no port could possibly have existed there, which could -have afforded shelter to a large fleet, and been closed by drawing a -chain across its mouth. - -Others, again, suppose Tarifa to occupy the site of Mellaria. But I -rather incline to the opinion of those who consider it doubtful whether -_any_ Roman town stood upon the spot; an opinion for which I think I -shall hereafter be able to assign sufficient reason. - -As Tarifa was the field wherein the Mohammedan invaders of Spain -obtained their first success, so, six centuries after, did it become the -scene of one of their most humiliating defeats; the battle of the -_Salado_, gained A.D. 1340, by Alphonso XI., of Castile, having -inflicted a blow upon them, from the effects of which they never -recovered. Four crowned heads were engaged in that sanguinary -conflict--the King of Portugal, as the ally of the Castillian hero; -Jusuf, King of Granada; and Abu Jacoob, Emperor of Morocco. The -last-named, according to the Spanish historians, had crossed over from -Africa, with an army of nearly half a million of men, to avenge the -death of his son, Abou Melic; killed the preceding year at the battle of -Arcos. - -The little river, which gave its name to that important battle gained by -the Christian army on its banks, winds through a plain to the westward -of Tarifa, crossing the road to Cadiz, at about two miles from the -town.[20] The valley is about three miles across, and extends a -considerable distance inland. It is watered by several mountain streams -that fall into the Salado. That rivulet is the last which is met with, -and is crossed by a long wooden bridge on five stone piers. - -The term _Salado_ is of very common occurrence amongst the names of the -rivers of the south of Spain; though in most cases it is used rather as -a term signifying a _water-course_, than as the name of the rivulet: -thus _El Salado de Moron_ is a stream issuing from the mountains in the -vicinity of the town of Moron; _El Salado de Porcuna_ is a torrent that -washes the walls of Porcuna; and so with the rest. As, however, the word -in Spanish signifies salt, (used adjectively) it has led to many -mistakes, and occasioned much perplexity in determining the course of -the river _Salsus_, mentioned so frequently by Hirtius; but to which, in -point of fact, the word _Salado_ has no reference whatever, being -applied to numerous streams that are perfectly free from salt. - -On the other hand, it might naturally be supposed that the word _Salido_ -(the past participle of the verb _Salir_, to issue) would have been used -if intended to signify a source or stream issuing from the mountains. - -It seems to me, therefore, that the word _Salado_ must be a derivation -from the Arabic _S[=a]l_, a water-course in a valley; which, differing -so little in sound from _Salido_, continued to be used after the -expulsion of the Moors; until at length, its derivation being lost, it -came to be considered as signifying what the word actually means in -Spanish, viz. impregnated with salt. - -At the western extremity of the plain, watered by the _Salado de -Tarifa_, a barren Sierra terminates precipitously along the coast, -leaving but a narrow space between its foot and the sea, for the passage -of the road to Cadiz. Under shelter of the eastern side of this Sierra, -standing in the plain, but closing the little Thermopylæ, I think we may -place the Roman town of Mellaría,[21] eighteen miles from Carteia, and -six from Belone Claudia, according to the Itinerary of Antoninus; and -mentioned by Strabo as a place famous for curing fish. - -Tarifa, which, as I have said before, is supposed by some authors to be -on the site of Mellaría, is in the first place rather too near Calpe -Carteia to accord with that supposition; and in the next, it is far too -distant from Belon; the site of which is well established by numerous -ruins visible to this day, at a _despoblado_,[22] called Bolonia. - -It may be objected, on the other hand, that the position which I suppose -Mellaría to have occupied, is as much too far removed from Carteia, as -Tarifa is too near it: and following the present road, it certainly is -so. But there is no reason to take for granted that the ancient military -way followed this line; on the contrary, as the Romans rather preferred -straight to circuitous roads, we may suppose that, as soon as the nature -of the country admitted of it, they carried their road away from the -coast, to avoid the promontory running into the sea at Tarifa. Now, an -opportunity for them to do this presented itself on arriving at the -valley of Gualmesi, from whence a road might very well have been carried -direct to the spot that I assign for the position of Mellaría; which -road, by saving two miles of the circuitous route by Tarifa, would fix -Mellaría at the prescribed distance from Carteia, and also bring it -(very nearly) within the number of miles from Belon, specified in the -Roman Itinerary, viz. six; whereas, if Mellaría stood where Tarifa now -does, the distance would be nearly _ten_. - -The city of Belon appears to have slipped bodily from the side of the -mountain on which it was built (probably the result of an earthquake), -as its ruins may be distinctly seen when the tide is out and the water -calm, stretching some distance into the Atlantic. Vestiges of an -aqueduct may also be traced for nearly a league along the coast, by -means of which the town was supplied with water from a spring that rises -near Cape Palomo, the southernmost point of the same Sierra under which -Belon was situated. - -In following out the Itinerary of Antoninus--according to which the -total distance from Calpe to Gades is made seventy-six miles[23]--the -next place mentioned after Belon Claudia is Besippone, distant twelve -miles. This place, it appears to me, must have stood on the coast a -little way beyond the river Barbate; and not at Vejer, (which is several -miles inland) as some have supposed; for the distance from the ruins of -Bolonia to that town far exceeds that specified in the Itinerary. - -Vejer (or Beger, as it is indifferently written) may probably be where a -Roman town called Besaro stood, of which Besippo was the port; the -latter only having been noticed in the Itinerary from it being situated -on the direct military route from Carteia to Gades; the former by -Pliny,[24] as being a place of importance within the _Conventus -Gaditani_. - -From Besippone to Mergablo--the next station of the Itinerary--is six -miles; and at that distance from the spot where I suppose the first of -those places to have stood, there is a very ancient tower on the sea -side, (to the westward of Cape Trafalgar) from which an old, apparently -Roman, paved road, now serving no purpose whatever, leads for several -miles into the country. From this tower to Cadiz--crossing the Santi -Petri river _at its mouth_--the distance exceeds but little twenty-four -miles; the number given in the Itinerary. - -The distances I have thus laid down agree pretty well throughout with -those marked on the Roman military way; which, it may be supposed, were -not _very exactly_ measured, since the fractions of miles have in every -case been omitted. The only objection which can be urged to my -measurements is, that they make the Roman miles too long. Having, -however, taken the Olympic stadium (in this instance) as my standard, of -which there are but 600 to a degree of the Meridian, or seventy-five -Roman miles; and as my measurements, even with it, are still rather -_short_, the reply is very simple, viz. that the adoption of any -_smaller_ scale would but _increase the error_. - -From the spot where I suppose Mellaría to have stood--which is marked by -a little chapel standing on a detached pinnacle of the _Sierra de -Enmedio_, overhanging the sea--the distance to the Rio Baqueros is two -miles; the road keeping along a flat and narrow strip of land, between -the foot of the mountain and the sea. - -The coast now trends to the south west, a high wooded mountain, -distinguished by the name of the Sierra de _San Mateo_, stretching some -way into the sea, and forming the steep sandy cape of _Paloma_, a league -on the western side of which are the ruins of Belon. - -The road to Cadiz, however, leaves the sea-shore to seek a more level -country, and, inclining slightly to the north, keeping up the _Val de -Baqueros_ for five miles, reaches a pass between the mountains of San -Mateo and Enmedio. - -The valley is very wild and beautiful. Laurustinus, arbutus, oleander, -and rhododendron are scattered profusely over the bed of the torrent -that rushes down it; and the bounding mountains are richly clothed with -forest trees. - -From the pass an extensive view is obtained of the wide plain of Vejer, -and _laguna de la Janda_ in its centre. Descending for two miles and a -half,--the double-peaked Sierra _de la Plata_ being now on the left -hand, and that of _Fachenas_, studded with water-mills, on the -right--the road reaches the eastern extremity of the above-named plain, -where the direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz falls in, and that of -Medina Sidonia branches off to the right. The Cadiz route here inclines -again to the westward, and, in three miles, reaches the _Venta de -Tavilla_. - -From hence two roads present themselves for continuing the journey; one -proceeding along the edge of the plain; the other keeping to the left, -and making a slight détour by the _Sierra de Retin_; and when the plain -is flooded, it is necessary to take this latter route. Let those who -find themselves in this predicament avoid making the solitary hovel, -called the _Venta de Retin_, their resting-place for the night, as I was -once obliged to do; for, unless they are partial to a guard bed, and to -go to it supperless, they will not meet with accommodation and -entertainment to their liking. - -We will return, however, to the _Venta de Tabilla_, which is a fraction -of a degree better than that of Retin. From thence the distance to Vejer -is fourteen miles. The first two pass over a gently swelling country, -planted with corn; the next six along the low wooded hills bordering the -_laguna de la Janda_; the remainder over a hilly, and partially wooded -tract, whence the sea is again visible at some miles distance on the -left. - -In winter the greater part of the plain of Vejer is covered with water, -there being no outlet for the _Laguna_; which, besides being the -reservoir for all the rain that falls on the surrounding hills, is fed -by several considerable streams. - -A project to drain the lake was entertained some years ago; but, like -all other Spanish projects, it failed, after an abortive trial. In its -present state, therefore, the whole surface of the plain is available -only for pasture; and numerous herds are subsisted on it. The gentle -slopes bounding it, being secure from inundation, are planted with corn. - -Vejer is situated on the northern extremity of a bare mountain ridge, -that stretches inland from the coast about five miles, and terminates in -a stupendous precipice along the right bank of the river Barbate. -Towards the sea, however, it slopes more gradually, forming the forked -headland, for ever celebrated in history, called Cape Trafalgar. - -When arrived within half a mile of the lofty cliff whereon the town -stands, the road enters a narrow gorge, by which the Barbate escapes to -the ocean; this part of its course offering a remarkable contrast to the -rest, which is through an extensive flat. - -A stone bridge of three curiously constructed arches, said to be Roman, -gives a passage over the stream; and a venta is situated on the right -bank, immediately under the town; the houses of which may be seen edging -the precipice, at a height of five or six hundred feet above the river. - -The road to Cadiz, and consequently all others,--it being the most -southerly,--avoids the ascent to Vejer, which is very steep, and so -circuitous as to occupy fully half an hour. But the place is well worth -a visit, if only for the sake of the view from the church steeple, which -is very extensive and beautiful; and taken altogether, it is a much -better town than could be expected, considering its truly out-of-the-way -situation. That it was a Roman station, its position alone sufficiently -proves; but whether it be the Besaro, or Belippo, or even Besippo of -Pliny, seems doubtful. - -It occupies a tolerably level space; though bounded on three sides by -precipices, and is consequently still a very defensible post, -notwithstanding its walls are all destroyed. The streets are narrow, but -clean and well paved; and the place contains many good houses, and -several large convents. The inns, however, are such wretched places, -that on one occasion, when I passed a night there, I had to seek a -resting-place in a private house. - -The Barbate is navigable for large barges up to the bridge; but the -difficulty of access to the town prevents its carrying on much trade. -The population amounts to about 6,000 souls. - -There is a delightful walk down a wooded ravine on the western side of -the town, by which the road to Cadiz and the valley of the Barbate may -be regained quicker than by retracing our footsteps to the Venta. Of -this latter I feel bound to say--after much experience--that there is -not a better halting-place between Cadiz and Gibraltar; albeit, many -stories are told of robberies committed even within its very walls. Let -the traveller take care, therefore, to show his pistols to mine host, -and to lock his bedroom door. - -We resumed our journey with the dawn. The road keeps for nearly a mile -along the narrow, flat strip between the bank of the river, and the high -cliff whereon the town is perched. The gorge then terminates, and an -open country permits the roads to the different neighbouring places to -branch off in their respective directions. From hence to Medina Sidonia -is thirteen miles; to Alcalà de los Gazules, twenty; and to -Chiclana--whither we were bound--fifteen;--but, leaving these three -roads on the right, we proceeded by a rather more circuitous route to -the last mentioned place, by Conil and Barrosa. - -The distance from Vejer to Conil is nine miles; the country undulated -and uninteresting. Conil is a large fishing town, containing a swarming -population of 8,000 souls. The smell of the houses where the tunny fish -(here taken in great abundance) are cut up and cured, extends inland for -several miles; but the inhabitants consider it very wholesome; and to my -animadversive remarks on the filth and effluvium of the place itself, -answer was made, "_no hay epidemia aqui_;"[25]--quite a sufficient -excuse, according to their ideas, for submitting to live the life of -hogs. - -We arrived just as the fishermen had enclosed a shoal of Tunny with -their nets; so, putting up our horses, we waited to see the result of -their labours. The whole process is very interesting. The Tunny can be -discovered when at a very considerable distance from the land; as they -arrive in immense shoals, and cause a ripple on the surface of the -water, like that occasioned by a light puff of wind on a calm day. Men -are, therefore, stationed in the different watch towers along the coast, -to look out for them, and, immediately on perceiving a shoal, they make -signals to the fishermen, indicating the direction, distance, &c. Boats -are forthwith put to sea, and the fish are surrounded with a net of -immense size, but very fine texture, which is gradually hauled towards -the shore. - -The tunny, coming in contact with this net, become alarmed, and make off -from it in the only direction left open to them. The boats follow, and -draw the net in, until the space in which the fish are confined is -sufficiently small to allow a second net, of great strength, to -circumscribe the first; which is then withdrawn. The tunny, although -very powerful, (being nearly the size and very much the shape of a -porpoise) have thus far been very quiet, seeking only to escape under -the net; and have hardly been perceptible to the spectators on the -beach. But, on drawing in the new net, and getting into shallow water, -their danger gives them the courage of despair, and furious are their -struggles to escape from their hempen prison. - -The scene now becomes very animated. When the draught is heavy--as it -was in this instance--and there is a possibility of the net being -injured, and of the fish escaping if it be drawn at once to land, the -fishermen arm themselves with harpoons, or stakes, having iron hooks at -the end, and rush into the sea whilst the net is yet a considerable -distance from the shore, surrounding it, and shouting with all their -might to frighten the fish into shallow water, when they become -comparatively powerless. - -In completing the investment of their prey, some of the fishermen are -obliged even to swim to the outer extremity of the net, where, holding -on by the floats with one hand, they strike, with singular dexterity, -such fish as approach the edge, in the hope of effecting their escape, -with a short harpoon held in the other. The men in the boats, at the -same time, keep up a continual splashing with their oars, to deter the -tunny from attempting to leap over the hempen enclosure; which, -nevertheless, many succeed in doing, amidst volleys of "_Carajos!_" - -The fish are thus killed in the water, and then drawn in triumph on -shore. They are allowed to bleed very freely; and the entrails, roes, -livers, and eyes, are immediately cut out, being perquisites of -different authorities. - -The flesh is salted, and exported in great quantities to Catalonia, -Valencia, and the northern provinces of the kingdom. A small quantity of -oil is extracted from the bones. - -Some years since, the Duke of Medina Sidonia enjoyed the monopoly of the -tunny fishery on this part of the coast, which was calculated to have -given him a yearly profit of £4000 sterling. But, at the time of my -visit, he had been deprived of this privilege, much to the regret of the -inhabitants of Conil; for the nets and salting-houses, being the -property of the duke, had to be hired, and as there were no capitalists -in the place able to embark in so expensive a speculation as the -purchase of others, the "company" that engaged in the fishery was, -necessarily, composed of strangers to Conil, whose only object was to -obtain the greatest possible profit during the short period for which -they held the duke's property on lease. They, consequently, drove the -hardest bargain they could with the poor inhabitants, who, accustomed -all their lives to this employment, could not turn their hands to any -other, and were forced to submit. - -I do not mean to defend monopolies in general, but what I have stated -shows, that in the present state of Spain they are almost unavoidable -evils. The inhabitants of Conil, at all events, complained most bitterly -of the change. - -The fishery lasts from March to July, and the season of which I write -(then drawing to a close,) was considered a very successful one, 1300 -tunny having been taken at Conil, and 1600 at Barrosa. Each fish is -worth ten dollars, or two pounds sterling. The falling off has, however, -been most extraordinary, as in former days we read of 70,000 fish having -been taken annually. - -From Conil the road keeps along the coast for twelve miles, to Barrosa, -a spot occupying a distinguished place in the pages of history, but -marked only by an old tower on the coast, and a small building, called a -_vigia_, or watch-house, situated on a knoll that rises slightly above -the general level of the country. This was the great object of -contention on the celebrated 5th March, 1811. - -Never, perhaps, were British soldiers placed under greater disadvantages -than on this glorious day, through the incapacity or pusillanimity, or -both, of the Spanish general who commanded in chief. And though far more -important victories have been gained by them, yet the cool bearing and -determined courage that shone forth so conspicuously on this occasion, -by completely removing the erroneous impression under which their -opponents laboured, as to the fitness of Englishmen for soldiers, -produced, perhaps, better effects than might have attended a victory -gained on a larger scale, under _more favourable_ circumstances. - -I have met with Spaniards who absolutely shed tears when speaking of -this battle, in which they considered our troops had been so shamefully -abandoned by their countrymen, or rather by the general who led them. -Nor is it surprising that the English character should stand so high as -it does in this part of the Peninsula, when, within the short space of a -day's ride, three such names as Tarifa, Trafalgar, and Barrosa, are -successively brought to recollection. - -The walls of the watch-house of Barrosa still bear the marks of mortal -strife, and the hill on which it stands is even yet strewed with the -bleached bones of the horses which fell there; but so slight is the -command the knoll possesses--indeed in so unimportant, pinched-up a -corner of the coast is it situated--that those who are not aware of the -unaccountable events which led to the battle, may well be surprised at -its having been chosen as a military position. - -Striking into the pine-forest, which bounds the field of battle to the -west, we arrived in about half an hour at the bridge and mill of -Almanza, and proceeding onwards, in four miles reached Chiclana; first -winding round the base of a conical knoll, surmounted by a chapel -dedicated to _Santa Ana_. - -Chiclana is the Highgate of the good citizens of Cadiz, and contains -many "genteel family residences," adapted for summer visiters; but the -place is disgracefully dirty, so that little benefit can be expected -from _change of air_. The gardens in its vicinage offer agreeable -promenades, however; and there is a fine view from the chapel of _Santa -Ana_, whence may be seen - - "Fair Cadiz, rising o'er the dark blue sea." - -Chiclana contains a population of about 6000 souls, and boasts of -possessing a tolerably good _posada_, whereat _calesas_, and other -vehicles, may be hired to proceed to the neighbouring towns; the roads -to all, even the direct one to Vejer, being open to wheel carriages. - -A rivulet bathes the north side of the town, dividing it from a large -suburb, and flowing on to the Santi Petri river. The Cadiz road, -crossing this stream by a long wooden bridge, proceeds for three miles -and a half (in company with the routes to _Puerto Santa Maria_, _Puerto -Real_, and _Xeres_,)[26] along a raised causeway, which keeps it above -the saltpans and marshes that render the _Isla de Leon_ so difficult of -approach. Arrived at a wide stream, a ferry-boat affords the means of -passage; and, on gaining the southern bank, the great road from Cadiz to -Madrid (passing through the towns above mentioned) presents itself. - -Taking the direction of Cadiz, our passports were immediately demanded -at the entrance of a fortified post, called the _Portazgo_,[27] the -first advanced redoubt of the multiplied defences of the _Isla de Leon_. -From thence the road is conducted, for nearly a mile, through bogs and -saltpans, as before, to the _Puente Zuazo_, a bridge over the river -_Santi Petri_, or _San Pedro_. This, by the way, is rather an arm of the -sea than a river, since it communicates between the bay of Cadiz and the -ocean, and forms the _Isla_ (island) _de Leon_, which otherwise would be -an isthmus. The channel is very wide, deep, and muddy; the bridge has -five arches, and was built by a Doctor _Juan Sanchez de Zuazo_ (whence -its name), on the foundation of one that existed in the days of the -Romans, and is supposed to have served as an aqueduct to supply Cadiz -with water from the _Sierra de Xeres_. It is protected by a double tête -de pont; and has one arch cut, and its parapets pierced with embrasures, -to enable artillery to fire down the stream. - -Soon after reaching the right bank of the San Pedro, the long straggling -town of the Isla, or, more properly, _San Fernando_, commences. The main -street is upwards of a mile in length, wide, and rather handsome. The -population of this place is estimated at 30,000 souls; but it varies -considerably, according to the date of the last visitation of yellow -fever. - -At the southern extremity of the city a low range of hills begins, which -stretches for a mile and a half towards the sea. The causeway to Cadiz, -however, is directed straight upon the _Torre Gorda_, standing upon the -shore more to the westward, and three miles distant from the town of -_San Fernando_. - -Here commences the narrow sandy isthmus that connects the point of land -on which Cadiz is built with the _Isla_. It is five miles long, and in -some places so narrow, that the waves of the Atlantic on one side, and -those of the bay of Cadiz on the other, reach the walls of the causeway. -About half way between the _Torre Gorda_ and Cadiz, the isthmus is cut -across by a fort called the _Cortadura_, beyond which it becomes much -wider. - -At five miles to the eastward of the _Torre Gorda_, or Tower of -Hercules, as it is also called, is the mouth of the Santi Petri river, -and four miles only beyond it is the _Vigia de Barrosa_; so that the -distance from thence to Cadiz is almost doubled by making the détour by -Chiclana. It is more than probable, therefore, that the Romans had a -military post, commanding a _flying bridge_, at the mouth of the river; -for, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, the coast-road from _Calpe_ to -_Gades_ was not directed from _Mergablo_ "_ad pontem_," as in the route -laid down from _Gades_ to _Hispalis_ (Seville), but "_ad -Herculem_;"--that is, it may be presumed, to the temple of Hercules,[28] -situated, according to common tradition, on a part of the coast near the -mouth of the Santi Petri river, over which the waves of the Atlantic now -roll unobstructed; and the supposed site of which temple is the same -distance from Cadiz as the bridge of Zuazo, thereby agreeing with the -Roman Itineraries. - -At the distance of 1200 yards from the river's mouth a rocky islet rises -from the sea, bearing on its scarped sides the inapproachable little -castle of _Santi Petri_, the bleached walls of which are said to have -been built from the ruins of the famed temple of Hercules. - -Contemptible as this isolated fortress appears to be, as well from its -size as from any thing that art has done for it, the fate of Cadiz, -nevertheless, depends in a great measure upon its preservation; since, -from the command the castle possesses of the entrance of the river, an -enemy, who may gain possession of it, is enabled to force the passage of -the stream under its protecting fire, and take in reverse all the -defenses of the _Isla de Leon_. Cadiz would thereby be reduced to its -own resources; and strong as Cadiz is, yet, like all fortresses defended -only by art, it must eventually fall. - -The surrender of the castle of _Santi Petri_ to the French, in the siege -of 1823, occasioned the immediate fall of Cadiz, its defenders seeing -that further resistance would be unavailing; whereas, the capture of the -_Trocadero_, about which so much was thought, did little towards the -reduction of the place. Indeed, the _Trocadero_ was in possession of the -enemy during the whole period of the former siege, 1810-12. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - CADIZ--ITS FOUNDATION--VARIOUS NAMES--PAST PROSPERITY--MADE A FREE - PORT IN THE HOPE OF RUINING THE TRADE OF GIBRALTAR--UNJUST - RESTRICTIONS ON THE COMMERCE OF THE BRITISH FORTRESS--DESCRIPTION - OF CADIZ--ITS VAUNTED AGREMENS--SOCIETY--MONOTONOUS - LIFE--CATHEDRAL--ADMIRABLY BUILT SEA WALL--NAVAL ARSENAL OF LA - CARRACA--ROAD TO XERES--PUERTO REAL--PUERTO DE SANTA - MARIA--XERES--ITS FILTH--WINE STORES--METHOD OF PREPARING - WINE--DOUBTS OF THE ANCIENT AND DERIVATION OF THE PRESENT NAME OF - XERES--CARTHUSIAN CONVENT--GUADALETE--BATTLE OF XERES. - - -The date of the foundation of Cadiz is lost in the impenetrable chaos of -heathen mythology. One of the numerous conquerors, distinguished by the -general name of Hercules, who, in early ages, carried their victorious -arms to the remotest extremities of Europe, appears to have erected a -temple at the westernmost point of the rocky ledge on which Cadiz now -stands; and round this temple, doubtless, a town gradually sprung up. -But the place came only to be known and distinguished by the name -_Gadira_, when the commercial enterprise of the Phoenicians led them -to make a settlement on this defensible island; and the foundation of -the temple dedicated to Hercules, which Strabo describes as situated at -the eastern extremity of the same island, "where it is separated from -the continent by a strait only about a stadium in width," is ascribed to -Pygmalion, nearly nine centuries before the Christian era. - -Gadira, or Gades, to which the name now became corrupted, was the first -town of Spain forcibly occupied by the Carthagenians, who, throwing off -the mask of friendship, took possession of it about the year B.C. 240. -It was the last place that afforded them a refuge in the war which -shortly followed with the Romans, into whose hands it fell, B.C. 203. -From the Romans it afterwards received the name of Augusta Julia, -probably from its adherence to the cause of Cæsar, who restored to the -temple of Hercules the treasures of which it had been plundered during -the civil wars that had previously distracted the country. But its old -name, altered apparently to its present orthography by the Moors, seems -always to have prevailed. - -Under the Moslems, Cadiz does not appear to have enjoyed any very great -consideration; and it was wrested from them without difficulty by San -Fernando, soon after the capture of Seville. - -On the discovery of America, Cadiz became, next to Seville (which was -endowed with peculiar privileges), the richest city of Spain. Its -imports at that time amounted annually to eleven millions sterling. But -since the loss of the American colonies, its prosperity has been rapidly -declining; and some years back, when the intestine troubles of Spain -rendered it impossible for her to afford protection to her commerce, the -trade of Cadiz may be said to have ceased. - -A _fillip_ was, however, given to its commerce, for it would be absurd -to call it an attempt to restore it--about nine years since, by making -it a free port. But this apparently liberal act, not having been -accompanied by any reduction of the duties imposed on foreign produce -introduced for consumption into the country, was merely a disgraceful -contrivance on the part of the king and his ministers to obtain money. - -On the promulgation of the edict constituting Cadiz a free port, it -became at once an entrepôt for the produce of all nations; the goods -brought to it being subjected only to a trifling charge for landing, &c. -The proceeds of this pitiful tax went to the coffers of the -municipality, which had paid the king handsomely for the "act of grace" -bestowed upon the city; and no source of revenue was opened to the -public treasury by the grant of this special privilege, since the goods -landed at Cadiz could only be carried into the interior of the country -on payment of duties that amounted to an absolute prohibition of them, -and they were, consequently, introduced surreptitiously by bribing the -city authorities and custom-house officers; who, in their turn, paid -large sums for their respective situations to the ministers of the -crown! - -Such is the way in which the commercial concerns of Spain are conducted. -The whole affair was, in fact, a temporary expedient to raise money by -selling Cadiz permission to smuggle. At the same time, the Spanish -government--by offering foreign merchants a mart which, at first sight, -seemed more conveniently situated for disposing of their goods than -Gibraltar--hoped to give a death-blow to the commerce of the British -fortress, which it had found to thrive, in spite of all the iniquitous -restrictions imposed upon it; such, for instance, as the exaction of -duties on goods shipped from thence, double in amount to those levied on -the _same articles_, if brought from the ports of France and Italy; the -depriving even Spanish vessels, if coming from, or touching at, -Gibraltar, of all advantages in regard to the rate of duty otherwise -granted to the national flag;[29] and various other abuses, to which it -is astonishing the British government has so long quietly submitted. - -The scheme, however, though successful for a time against Gibraltar, did -no permanent good to Cadiz; and the trade of the place has relapsed into -its former sickly state. - -"Cadiz! sweet Cadiz," has been so extolled by modern authors, that I am -almost afraid to say what I think of it. It strikes me, that the very -favourable impression it usually makes on my countrymen is owing to its -being, in most cases, the first place they see after leaving England; -or, perchance, the first place they have seen out of England; to whose -gloomy brick-built towns its bright houses and battlements offer as -agreeable a contrast, as the picturesque costume of its inhabitants does -to the ill-cut garments of the natives of our island. - -Under any circumstances, however, the first impression made by Cadiz is -favourable, unless you enter by the fish-market. The streets are -straight, tolerably well lighted, and remarkably well paved, many of -them having even the convenience of a _trottoir_. There is one handsome -square, and the houses, generally, are lofty, and those which are -inhabited are clean. But many are falling rapidly to decay, from the -diminished population and prosperity of the place. - -On the other hand, the city does not contain one handsome public -building; and, if one leaves the principal thoroughfares, its boasted -cleanliness and "sweetness" turn out to be mere poetical delusions. In -fact, the vaunted _agrémens_ of the city to me were undiscoverable. -There is but one road to ride upon, one promenade to walk upon, one -sheet of water to boat upon. The Alameda, on which much hyperbolical -praise has been bestowed, is a dusty gravel walk, extending about half a -mile along the ramparts. It is lined--not shaded--with stunted trees, -and commands a fine view of the marsh-environed bay when the tide is in, -and a disagreeable effluvium from it when the tide is out; and, I must -say, that I never could perceive any more "harmony and fascination" in -the movements of the pavonizing _gaditanas_ who frequent it, than in -those of the fair promenaders of other Spanish towns. The _Plaza de San -Antonio_ is a square, situated in the heart of the city, which, paved -with large flag-stones, and lighted with lamps, may be considered a kind -of treadmill, that fashion has condemned her votaries to take an hour's -exercise in after the fatigues of the day. - -The society of Cadiz is now but second rate; for it is no longer -inhabited as in bygone days, when the nobility from all parts of the -kingdom sought shelter behind its walls. At the Tertulias of the first -circle, gaming is the principal pastime, and I have been given to -understand that the play is very high. The public amusements are few. -There is a tolerable theatre, where Italian Operas are sometimes -performed; but, for the great national diversion, the bull-fight, the -inhabitants have to cross the bay to Puerto Santa Maria. - -In fine, for one whose time is not fully occupied by business, I know of -few _less_ agreeable places of residence than Cadiz. The transient -visiter, who prolongs his stay beyond two days, will find time hang very -heavy on his hands; for having, in that short space, seen all the place -contains, he will be driven to wile away the tedious hours after the -usual manner of its inhabitants, viz., by devoting the morning to the -_cafés_ and billiard-rooms, the afternoon to the _siesta_, evening to -the Alameda, dusk to the Plaza San Antonio and its _Neverias_,[30] and -night to the Tertulias--for such is the life of a Spanish _man of -pleasure_! - -The hospitable mansion of the British Consul General affords those who -have the good fortune to possess his acquaintance a happy relief from -this monotonous and wearisome life; and, besides meeting there the best -society the place affords, the lovers of the fine arts will derive much -gratification from the inspection of Mr. Brackenbury's picture gallery, -which contains many choice paintings of Murillo, and the best Spanish -Masters. - -What few other good paintings Cadiz possesses are scattered amongst -private houses. The churches contain none of any merit. In one of the -Franciscan convents, however, is to be seen a painting that excites much -interest, as being the last which occupied the pencil of Murillo, though -it was not finished by him. Our conductor told me that a most -distinguished English nobleman had offered 500 guineas for it, but the -pious monks refused to sell it to a heretic!--Perhaps, His Grace did not -know before on what _conscientious_ grounds his liberal offer had been -declined. - -The old Cathedral is not worth visiting. The new one, as it is called, -was commenced in the days of the city's prosperity; but the source from -whence the funds for building it were raised, failed ere it was half -finished; and there it stands, a perfect emblem of Spain herself!--a -pile of the most valuable materials, planned on a scale of excessive -magnificence, but put together without the slightest taste, and falling -to decay for want of revenue![31] - -The walls of the city--excepting those of its land front, which are -remarkably well constructed, and kept in tolerable order--are in a -deplorable state of dilapidation, and in some places the sea has -undermined, and made such breaches in them, as even to threaten the -very existence of the city, should it be exposed to a tempest similar to -that which did so much mischief to it some seventy years since. This -decay is particularly observable, too, on the south side of the -fortress, where the sea-wall is exposed to the full sweep of the -Atlantic; and here the mischief has resulted chiefly from the want of -timely attention to its repairs, for the wall itself is a perfect -masterpiece of the building art. Regarding it as such, I venture to -devote a small space to its description, conceiving that a hint may be -advantageously taken therefrom in the future construction of piers, -wharfs, &c. in our own country; and I am the more induced to do so, -since so small a portion of the work remains in its pristine state, that -it already must be spoken of rather as a thing that _has been_, than one -which _is_. - -The great object of the builder was to secure the foundation of his wall -from the assaults of the ocean, which, at times, breaks with excessive -violence upon this coast. For this purpose, he formed an artificial -beach, by clearing away the loose rocks which lay strewed about, and -inserting in the space thus prepared and levelled, a strong wooden -frame-work formed of cases dovetailed into and well fastened to each -other. These cases were filled with stones, and secured by numerous -piles. The surface was composed of beams of wood, placed close -together, carefully caulked, and laid so as to form an inclined plane, -at an angle of eight degrees and a half with the horizon. - -This beach extended twenty-seven yards from the sea-wall; and its foot, -by resting against a kind of breakwater formed of large stones, was -saved from being exposed, vertically, to the action of the sea. The -waves, thus broke upon the artificial beach, and running up its smooth -surface without meeting the slightest resistance, expended, in a great -measure, their strength ere reaching the foot of the wall. - -To avoid, however, the shock which would still have been felt by the -waves breaking against the ramparts, (especially when the sea was -unusually agitated) had the planes of the beach and wall met at an -angle, the upper portion of the surface of the artificial beach--for -about fifteen feet--was laid with large blocks of stone, and united in a -curve, or inverted arch, with the casing of the walls of the rampart; -and the waves being, by this means, conducted upwards, without -experiencing a check, spent their remaining strength in the air, and -fell back upon the wooden beach in a harmless shower of spray. - -So well was the work executed, that many portions of the arch which -connected the beach with the scarped masonry of the rampart are yet -perfect, and may be seen projecting from the face of the wall, about -twenty feet above its foundation; although the beach upon which it -rested has been entirely swept away. - -Another cause, besides neglect, has contributed greatly to the -destruction of this work; namely, the injudicious removal of the stones -and ledges of rock which formed the breakwater of the beach, for -erecting houses and repairing the walls of the city. - -The ride round the ramparts would be an agreeable variety to the -_eternal paseo_ on the _Camino de Ercoles_,[32] but for the insufferable -odours that arise from the vast heaps of filth deposited on one part of -it. To such an extent has this nuisance reached, that, without another -river Alpheus, even the hard-working son of Jupiter (the city's reputed -founder) would find its removal no easy task. - -The arsenal of the _Carracas_ is situated on the northern bank of the -Santi Petri river, about half a mile within the mouth by which that -channel communicates with the bay of Cadiz, and at a distance of two -leagues from the city, to which it has no access by land. Its plan is -laid on a magnificent scale, and it may boast of having equipped some of -the most formidable armaments that ever put to sea; but it is now one -vast ruin, hardly possessing the means of fitting out a cockboat. A -fire, that reduced the greater part of it to ashes some five and thirty -years since, furnishes the national vanity with an agreeable excuse for -its present condition. - -The road from Cadiz to Port St. Mary's is very circuitous, and offers -little to interest any persons but military men and salt-refiners. I -will, therefore, pass rapidly over it--which its condition enables me to -do--merely observing that, from the branching off of the Chaussée to -Chiclana at the _Portazgo_, it makes a wide sweep round the salt marshes -at the head of the bay of Cadiz, to gain _Puerto Real_ (eighteen miles -from Cadiz); and then leaving the peninsula of the _Trocadero_ on the -left, in four miles reaches a long wooden bridge over the -Guadalete--here called the river San Pedro. Two miles further on it -crosses another stream by a similar means; and this second river, which -is connected with the Guadalete by a canal, has become the principal -channel of communication between Xeres and the bay of Cadiz. - -A road now turns off to the right to Xeres; another, on the left, to -Puerto Santa Maria; and that which continues straight on proceeds to San -Lucar, on the Guadalquivír. - -Puerto Real is a large but decayed town, possessing but little -trade,[33] and no manufactories. Its environs, however, are -fertile--enabling it to contend with Port St. Mary's in supplying the -Cadiz market with fruit and vegetables;--and a good crop of hay might -even be taken from its streets after the autumnal rains!--The population -is estimated at 12,000 souls. - -Puerto Santa Maria is a yet larger town than Puerto Real, and is -computed to contain 18,000 inhabitants. It is situated within the mouth -and extending along the right bank of the river, into which the -Guadalete has been partly turned. The entrance to the harbour is -obstructed by a sand bank, which is impassable at low tide; and at -times, when the wind is strong from the S. W., this bar interrupts -altogether the water communication with Cadiz.[34] - -The distance between the two places, across the bay, is but five miles; -by the causeway, twenty-four. - -The main street of Puerto Santa Maria is of great length, wide, and -rather handsome; and the place has, altogether, a very thriving look; -for which it is indebted, as well to the great share it enjoys of the -Xeres wine trade,[35] as to the fruitfulness of its fields and orchards. -The country, to some considerable extent round the town, is perfectly -flat; and the soil (a dark alluvial deposit,) is rich, and highly -cultivated; it is, in fact, the market-garden of Cadiz, the inhabitants -of which place would die of scurvy, if cut off for six months from the -lemon-groves of Port St. Mary. - -The position of Puerto Santa Maria seems to correspond pretty well with -that of the Portus Gaditanus of Antoninus, viz., 14 miles from the -Puente Zuazo, (_Pons_;) the difference being only that between English -and Roman miles. But, besides that there is every appearance of the -Guadalete having altered its course, and consequently swept away all -traces of the Roman port, (or yet more ancient one of _Menesthes_, -according to Strabo,) a fertile soil is, of all things, the most -inimical to the _preservation_ of _ruins_; for gardeners will have no -respect for old stones when they stand in the way of cabbage-plants. It -would, therefore, be vain to look for any vestiges of the ancient town, -in the vicinity of the modern one. - -To proceed to Xeres, we must retrace our steps, along the chaussée to -Cadiz, for about a mile; when, leaving the two roads branching off to -Puerto Real and San Lucar on the right and left, our way continues -straight on, traverses a cultivated plain for another mile, and then -ascends a rather steep ridge, distinguished in this flat country by the -name of _Sierra de Xeres_, though scarcely 500 feet high. - -The view from the summit of this ridge is, nevertheless, remarkably -fine. It embraces the whole extent of the bay of Cadiz; the bright towns -which stand upon its margin; the curiously intersected country that cuts -them off from each other; and the winding courses of the Guadalete and -Santi Petri. - -The slope of the hill is very gradual on the side facing Xeres, and the -view is tame in comparison with that in the opposite direction. The -road, which traverses a country covered with corn and olives, is -_carriageable_ throughout; but there is a better route, which turns the -Sierra to the eastward, keeping nearer the marshes of the Guadalete. The -distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Xeres, by the direct road, is nine -miles; by the post route, ten. - -Xeres is situated in the lap of two rounded hillocks, which shelter it -to the east and west; and it covers a considerable extent of ground. The -city, properly so called, is embraced by an old crenated Moorish wall, -which, though enclosing a labyrinth of narrow, ill-built, and worse -drained streets, is of no great circuit, and is so intermixed with the -houses of the suburbs, as to be visible only here and there. The limits -of the ancient town are well defined, however, by the numerous gateways -still standing, and which, from the augmented size of the place, appear -to be scattered about it without any object. Some of the old buildings -and narrow streets are very sketchy, and the number of gables and -chimneys cannot fail to strike one who has been long accustomed to the -flat-roofed cities of Andalusia. - -The principal merchants of the place reside mostly in the suburbs; -where, besides having greater space for their necessarily extensive -premises, their wine stores are better situated for ventilation; a very -important auxiliary in bringing the juice of the grape to a due state of -perfection. The numerous clean and lofty stores, interspersed with -commodious and well-built houses, gardens, greenhouses, &c., give the -suburbs an agreeable, refreshing appearance. But it is needful to walk -the streets with nose in air, and eyes fixed on things above; for, -though much wider, and consequently more freely exposed to the action of -the sun and air, than those of the circumvallated city, they are yet -more filthy, and quite as nauseating. Now and then, indeed, a generous -brown sherry odour salutes the third sense, counteracting, in some -degree, the unwholesome effects of the noxious cloacal miasms. But the -bad scents prevail in the proportion of ten to one; and, like the -far-famed distilling city of Cologne, Xeres seems to have bottled up, -and hermetically sealed, all its sweets for exportation. - -The population of the place is enormous--being estimated at no less -than 50,000 souls. But the amount is subject to great variations, -dependant on the recentness of the last endemic fever, generated in its -pestiferous gutters. The inhabitants are all, more or less, connected -with the wine trade--which is the only thing thought of or talked of in -the place. - -The store-houses are all above ground. They are immense buildings, -having lofty roofs supported on arches, springing from rows of slender -columns; and their walls are pierced with numerous windows, to admit of -a thorough circulation of air. Some are so large as to be capable of -containing 4000 butts, and are cool, even in the most sultry weather. -The exhalations are, nevertheless, rather _overcoming_, even unaided by -the numerous _samples_, of which one is tempted to make trial. The -number of butts annually made, or, more correctly speaking, _collected_, -at Xeres, amounts to 30,000. Of this number, one half is exported to -England, and includes the produce of nearly all the choicest vineyards -of Xeres; for, in selecting their wines for shipment, the Xeres houses -carefully avoid mixing their first-growth wines with those of lighter -quality, collected from the vineyards of Moguer, San Lucar, and Puerto -Real; or even with such as are produced on their own inferior grounds. - -The remaining 15,000 butts are in part consumed in the country; where a -light wine, having what is called a _Manzanilla_[36] flavour, is -preferred--or sold to the shippers from other places, where they are -generally mixed with inferior wines. - -The total number of butts shipped, annually, from the different ports -round the bay of Cadiz, may be taken at the following average-- - - From Xeres 15,000 almost all to England. - " Puerto Santa Maria 12,000 chiefly to England and the - United States. - { principally to the Habana, - " Chiclana 3,000{ the Ports of Mexico, and - " Puerto Real 500{ Buenos Ayres. - ------- - Total 30,500 - ------- - -But, besides the above, a prodigious quantity of wine finds its way to -England from Moguer and San Lucar, which one never hears of but under -the common denomination of Sherry. - -Most of the principal merchants are growers, as well as venders of wine; -which, with foreign houses, renders it necessary that one partner of the -firm, at least, should be a Roman Catholic; for "_heretics_" cannot hold -lands in Spain. Those who are growers have a decided advantage over such -as merely make up wines; for the latter are liable to have the produce -of the inferior vineyards of San Lucar, Moguer, and other places, mixed -up by the grower of whom they purchase. All Sherries, however, are -_manufactured_; for, it would be almost as difficult to get an unmixed -butt of wine from a Xeres merchant, as a direct answer from a quaker. -But there is no concealment in this mixing process; and it is even quite -necessary, in order to keep up the stock of old wines, which, otherwise, -would soon be consumed. - -These are kept in huge casks--not much inferior in size to the great ton -of Heidelberg--called "_Madre_"[37] butts; and some of these old ladies -contain wine that is 120 years of age. It must, however, be confessed, -that the plan adopted in keeping them up, partakes somewhat of the -nature of "_une imposture delicate_;" since, whenever a gallon of wine -is taken from the 120 year old butt, it is replaced by a like quantity -from the next in seniority, and so on with the rest; so that even the -very oldest wines in the store are daily undergoing a mixing process. - -It is thus perfectly idle, when a customer writes for a "ten-year old" -butt of sherry, to expect to receive a wine which was grown that number -of years previously. He will get a most excellent wine, however, which -will, probably, be prepared for him in the following -manner:--Three-fourths of the butt will consist of a three or four year -old wine, to which a few gallons of _Pajarete_, or _Amontillado_,[38] -will be added, to give the particular flavour or colour required; and -the remainder will be made up of various proportions of old wines, of -different vintages: a dash of brandy being added, to preserve it from -sea-sickness during the voyage. - -To calculate the age of this mixture appears, at first sight, to involve -a laborious arithmetical operation. But it is very simply done, by -striking an average in the following manner:--The _fond_, we will -suppose, is a four-years' old wine, with which figure we must, -therefore, commence our calculations. To flavour and give age to this -foundation, the hundred and twenty years' old "_madre_" is made to -contribute a gallon, which, being about the hundreth part of the -proposed butt, diffuses a year's maturity into the composition. The -centiginarian stock-butt next furnishes a quantity, which in the same -way adds another year to its age. The next in seniority supplies a -proportion equivalent to a space of two years; and a fourth adds a -similar period to its existence. So that, without going further, we have -4+1+1+2+2=10, as clear as the sun at noon-day, or a demonstration in -Euclid. - -This may appear very like "_bishoping_," or putting marks in a horse's -mouth to conceal his real age. But the intention, _in the case of the -wine_, is by no means fraudulent, but simply to distribute more equally -the good things of this life, by furnishing the public with an excellent -composition, which is within the reach of many; for, if this were not -done, the consequence would be, that the Xeres merchant would have a -small quantity of wine in his stores, which, from its extreme age, would -be so valuable, that few persons would be found to purchase it, and a -large stock of inferior wines, which would be driven out of the market -by the produce of other countries. - -The quality of the wine depends, therefore, upon the quantity and age of -the various _madre_ butts from which it has been flavoured; and the -taste is varied from dry to sweet, and the colour from pale to brown, by -the greater or less admixture of _Pajarete_, _Amontillado_, and _boiled_ -sherry. I do not think that the custom of adding boiled wine obtains -generally, for it is a very expensive method of giving age. It is, -however, a very effectual mode, and one that is considered equivalent to -a voyage across the Atlantic, at the very least. - -I have heard of an extensive manufacturer (not of wine) in our own -country, who had rather improved on this plan of giving premature old -age to his wines. He called one of the steam-engines of his factory -_Bencoolen_, and another _Mobile_; and, slinging his butts of Sherry and -Madeira to the great levers of the machinery, gave them the benefit of a -ship's motion, as well as a tropical temperature, without their quitting -his premises; and, after a certain number of weeks' oscillation, he -passed them off as "East and West India _particular_." - -The sweet wines of Xeres are, perhaps, the finest in the world. That -known as _Pajarete_ is the most abundantly made, but the _Pedro Ximenes_ -is of superior flavour. There is also a sweet wine flavoured with -cherries, which is very delicious. - -The light dry Sherries are also very pleasant in their pure state, but -they require to be mixed with brandy and other wines, to keep long, or -to ship for the foreign market. Those, therefore, who purchase _cheap -Sherry_ in England may be assured that it has become a _light_ wine -since its departure from Spain. - -The number of _winehouses_ at Xeres is quite extraordinary. Of these, as -many, I think, as five-and-twenty export almost exclusively to England. -The merchants are extremely hospitable; they live in very good style, -and are particularly choice of the wines that appear at their tables. - -The Spanish antiquaries have by no means settled to their satisfaction -what Roman city stood on the site of modern Xeres. The common opinion -seems to be, that it occupies the place of _Asta Regia_, mentioned by -Pliny as one of the towns within the marshes of the Guadalquivír. -Florez, however, labours to prove that it agrees better with _Asido_. -But I do not think his arguments get over the difficulty arising from -the expression "_in mediterraneo_," applied to that city; which agrees -better with _Medina Sidonia_ than Xeres, the latter being close upon the -flats of the Guadalquivír, whereas the other is decidedly _inland_ with -reference to them. - -The medals of Asido, Florez describes as having sometimes a bull, and at -others a "fish of the _tunny_ kind," upon them. Now this latter emblem -is, most certainly, more applicable to Medina Sidonia than Xeres, since -no fish of the "tunny kind" ever could have frequented the shallow muddy -stream of the Guadalete. And though the city of Medina Sidonia is -situated on the summit of a high hill, sixteen miles from the sea, yet -we may take it for granted that its jurisdiction extended as far as the -coast, to the eastward of the Isla de Leon; since it does not appear -that any town of note intervened between Cadiz and Besaro, or Besippone. - -The same author derives the name Xeres from the Persian _Zeiraz_ -(Schiras); supposing it may have been so called from that having been -the country of the Moslem chief who captured Regia. - -The word assimilates with our mode of pronouncing the name of the -existing town; and the wine of Schiraz was not less esteemed of old -amongst the easterns, than Sherry is now by us, and appears ever to have -been by the ancients; for tradition ascribes to Bacchus the foundation -of Nebrissa, in the vicinity of Xeres. May not, therefore, the celebrity -of its vineyards have led the Arabs to call the town Schiraz, or Xeres, -rather than the country of the chief who conquered it? - -Xeres was captured from the Moors by San Fernando, and, becoming -thenceforth one of the bulwarks of the Christian frontier, changed its -name from _Xeres Sidonia_ to _Xeres de la Frontera_, by which it -continues to be distinguished from others. - -The Guadalete does not approach within a mile and a half of Xeres. This -river is the Chryssus of the Romans; and the Spaniards, ever prone to -boast of the ancient celebrity of their country, maintain it to be the -mythological Lethe of yet more remote times. On its right bank (about -three miles on the road to Medina Sidonia) stands a Carthusian convent -of some note. The pious founders of this edifice--as indeed was their -wont--located themselves in a most enviable situation. The "_elisios -xerexanos prados_" were spread out before them, covered with fat beeves, -and herds of high caste horses, belonging to the order. The perfume of -the surrounding orange-groves penetrated to the innermost recesses of -this house of prayer and penance. The juice of the luscious grape, and -the oil of the purple olives that grew upon the sunny bank whereon it -stands, found their way, with as little obstruction, into its cells and -cellars. But still, with this Canaan in their possession, these austere -disciples of St. Bruno affected to despise the things of this world, and -held not communion with their fellow-creatures! - -The edifice is fast falling to decay; the brotherhood is reduced to a -score of decrepit old men; and--what alone is to be regretted--the -celebrated breed of horses has become extinct. - -The Guadalete winds through the valley overlooked by the _Cartuja_,[39] -and is crossed by a stone bridge of five arches. On gaining the southern -bank of the river, roads branch off in all directions. That to the -left--keeping up the valley--proceeds to Paterna (sixteen miles from -Xeres), and _Alcalà de los Gazules_ (twenty-five miles). Another, -continuing straight on, goes to Medina Sidonia (eighteen miles); and a -third, that presents itself to the right, is directed across the country -to Chiclana, reducing the distance to that place from twenty-six miles -(by the post-road) to sixteen. - -About four miles below the bridge are some store-houses, a wharf, and -ferry, called _El Portal_, from whence the river is navigable to Port -St. Mary's. _El Portal_ may be considered the port of Xeres, to which -place (distant about three miles) there is a good wheel-road. - -The fatal battle which gave Spain up to the dominion of the Saracens -(A.D. 714) was fought on the southern bank of the Guadalete, about five -miles from Xeres, on the road to Paterna. The robes and "horned helmet" -of Roderick, which he is supposed to have thrown off to facilitate his -escape, were found on the bank of the river, where a small chapel, -dedicated to Our Lady of _Leyna_, now stands. The sanguinary fight is -stated--with the customary Spanish exaggeration--to have lasted eight -days! and then only to have been decided in favour of the Mohammedans by -treason. - -But however much we may admire the valour displayed by the Gothic -monarch, in thus obstinately defending his crown, yet the rashness he -was guilty of, in drawing up his forces on such a field (in a country -abounding in strong positions, where the enemy's superiority of numbers -would not have availed them), proves him to have been as little fitted -to command an army as to govern a kingdom. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - CHOICE OF ROADS TO SEVILLE--BY LEBRIJA--MIRAGE--THE MARISMA--POST - ROAD--CROSS ROAD BY LAS CABEZAS AND LOS PALACIOS--DIFFICULTY OF - RECONCILING ANY OF THESE ROUTES WITH THAT OF THE ROMAN - ITINERARY--SEVILLE--GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY--THE - ALAMEDA--DISPLAY OF CARRIAGES--ELEVATION OF THE HOST--PUBLIC - BUILDINGS--THE CATHEDRAL--LONJA--AMERICAN ARCHIVES--ALCAZAR--CASA - PILATA--ROYAL SNUFF MANUFACTORY--CANNON FOUNDRY--CAPUCHIN - CONVENT--MURILLO--THEATRE OF SEVILLE--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STATE OF - THE NATIONAL DRAMA--MORATIN--THE BOLERO--SPANISH DANCING--THE - SPANIARDS NOT A MUSICAL PEOPLE. - - -The traveller who journeys on horseback has the choice of several roads -between Xeres and Seville. The shortest is by the marshes of the -Guadalquivír, visiting only one town, Lebrija, in the whole distance of -eleven leagues. The longest is the post route, or _arrecife_, which -makes a very wide circuit by Utrera and Alcalá de Guadaira, to avoid the -swampy country bordering the river. From this latter road several others -diverge to the left, cutting off various segments of the arc it -describes; and in summer these routes are even better than the highway -itself, though heavy and much intersected by torrents in winter. - -On the first-named or shortest road, the town of Lebrija alone calls for -observation. It is about fifteen miles from Xeres, and stands on the -side of a slightly-marked mound, that stretches some little way into the -wide-spreading plain of the Guadalquivír. The knoll is covered with the -extensive ruins of a castle--a joint work of Romans and Moors--which -during the late war was put into a defensible state by the French. Most -writers agree in placing here the Roman city of Nebrissa;[40] in which -name that of the modern town may readily be distinguished. It is distant -about five miles from the Guadalquivír, and contains three convents, and -a population of 4,000 souls. The Posada is excellent. - -The country from Xeres to Lebrija presents an undulated surface, which -is clothed with vines and olives; but thenceforth the banks of the -"_olivifero Boetis_" are devoted entirely to pasture, and the road is -most uninterestingly flat: so flat, indeed, that there is scarcely a -rise in the whole twenty-eight miles from Lebrija to Seville. It is not -passable in winter, and but one wretched hovel, called the _Venta del -Peleon_, offers itself as a resting-place. The river winds occasionally -close up to the side of the road, and from time to time a barge or -passage boat, gliding along its smooth surface, breaks the wearisome -monotony of the scene; but in general the tortuous stream wanders to a -distance of several miles from the road, and is altogether lost to the -sight in an apparently interminable plain, that stretches to the -westward. - -The misty vapour, or _mirage_, which rises from and hangs over the low -land bordering the river, produces singular deceptions; at times giving -the whole face of the country in advance the semblance of a vast lake; -at others, magnifying distant objects in a most extraordinary manner. On -one occasion, we were surprised to see what had every appearance of -being a large town rise up suddenly before us; and it was only when -arrived within a few hundred yards of the objects we had taken for -churches and houses, that we became convinced they were but a drove of -oxen. These imaginary oxen proved in the end, however, to be only a -flock of sheep. The _Marisma_,[41] for such is the name given to this -low ground, affords pasturage for immense herds of cattle of all sorts, -and the herbage is so fine as to lead one to wonder what becomes of all -the _fat_ beef and mutton in Spain. - -The post road from Xeres to Seville, as I have already mentioned, is -very circuitous, increasing the distance from forty-three to fifty-six -miles--reckoned fifteen and a half post leagues. - -For the first thirteen miles, that is, to the post house of _La Casa -real del Cuervo_, the road traverses a country rich in corn and olives, -but skirting for some considerable distance the western limits of a vast -heath, called the _llanura de Caulina_, whereon even goats have -difficulty in finding sustenance. The first league of the road is -perfectly level, the rest hilly. A little beyond the post house of El -Cuervo, a road strikes off to the left to Lebrija. The _arrecife_, -proceeding on towards Utrera, crosses numerous gulleys by which the -winter torrents are led down from the side of the huge _Sierra -Gibalbin_, which, here raising its head on the right, stretches to the -north for a mile or two, keeping parallel to the road, and then again -sinks to the plain. This passed, the remainder of the road to Utrera is -conducted along what may be termed the brow of a wide tract of low table -land, which, extending to the foot of the distant _Serranía de Ronda_ on -the right, breaks in the opposite direction into innumerable -ramifications, towards the plain of the Guadalquivír. - -In the entire distance to Utrera, (twenty-four miles from _El Cuervo_) -there is not a single village on the road, and but very few farms or -even cottages scattered along it. It is plentifully furnished with -bridges for crossing the various _barrancas_[42] that drain the mountain -ravines in the winter, and by means of these bridges the chaussée is -kept nearly on a dead level throughout. About midway there is another -post house. This road is so perfectly uninteresting, that, availing -myself of the earliest opportunity of quitting it and proceeding to -Seville by a more direct, if not a more diversified route, I will strike -into a well-beaten track that presents itself, edging away to the left, -about three miles beyond _El Cuervo_, and is directed on Las Cabezas de -San Juan, distant about six miles from the post road. - -Las Cabezas de San Juan is a wretched little village, which inscriptions -found in its vicinity have decided to be the _Ugia_[43] of the Romans. -It is situated on a knoll, commanding an extensive view over the -circumjacent flat country, and some years since contained a population -of a thousand or twelve hundred souls. But, having been the hotbed -wherein Riego's conspiracy was brought to unnatural maturity, it was -razed to the ground during the short contest that restored Ferdinand to -a despotic throne, and "all its pleasant things laid waste." - -From hence to _Los Palacios_ is ten miles. The country is flat, and but -partially cultivated. A short league before reaching _Los Palacios_, a -long ruined bridge, called _El Alcantarilla_, is seen at a little -distance off the road on the right. In the time of Swinburne, this -bridge appears to have been passable, and an inscription was then -sufficiently perfect to announce its Roman origin. It was probably -raised to carry a road from Lebrija to Utrera across a marshy tract, -which in winter is apt to be flooded by the _Salado de Moron_; or -perhaps the road over it may have been directed on _Dos Hermanos_, which -is known to be the Roman town of Orippo. - -Los Palacios is a clean compact village, of about 1,000 inhabitants. A -plain extends for many miles on all sides of it, but a slight, perhaps -artificial, mound rises slightly above the general level of the place on -its eastern side, and bears the weight of its ruined castle: the walls -of the village itself are also fast crumbling to the dust. The inns are -miserable; but a Spanish nobleman, with whom we had become acquainted at -Xeres, had obligingly furnished us with a letter of introduction to a -gentleman of the place, who entertained us most hospitably, and very -reluctantly--for he wished much to detain us--gave orders to the _dueña_ -of his household to have the usual breakfast of chocolate and bread -fried in lard prepared for us by daybreak on the following morning. - -From Los Palacios to Seville the distance is reckoned five "_leguas -regulares_," but it is barely fifteen miles. The country to the north of -the village is very fruitful, and becomes hilly as one proceeds. At -about nine miles there is a solitary venta, on the margin of a stream -that comes down from _Dos Hermanos_; which village is situated about a -league off on the right. - -It is a matter of some little difficulty to make any of the roads -between Cadiz and Seville (that is, from Port St. Mary's onwards) agree -with the route laid down in the Itinerary of Antoninus. The distance of -the _Portus Gaditanus_ from _Hispalis_ is therein stated to be -seventy-six Roman miles,[44] or, according to Florez, sixty-eight;[45] -which miles, if computed to contain eight _Olympic_ stadia each, are -equal to seventy, and sixty-three British statute miles respectively; -the actual distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Seville being, by the -chaussée, sixty-six miles; by Lebrija and the marshes, fifty-two. - -On comparing these distances, therefore, one would naturally be led to -suppose that the Roman military way followed the circuitous line of the -existent chaussée, but that monuments and inscriptions, which have been -found at Las Cabezas de St. Juan and Dos Hermanos, prove those places -to be the towns of _Ugia_ and _Orippo_, mentioned in the Itinerary as -lying upon the road. We are under the necessity, therefore, of adopting -a line which reduces the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ to -_Hispalis_ far below even that given by Florez. - -The only way of meeting all these difficulties and premises seems to be -by taking a smaller stadium than the _Olympic_. That of 666-2/3 to a -degree of the meridian[46] I have generally found to agree well with the -actual distances of places in Spain, and it is a scale which we are -warranted in adopting, since it is sometimes used by Strabo on the -authority of Eratosthenes, and Pliny admits that no two persons ever -agreed in the Roman measures. - -Taking this scale, therefore (though a yet smaller would agree better), -I fix the first station, _Hasta_, at a small table hill, even now called -by the Spaniards _La Mesa de Asta_, lying N.N.W. of Xeres;[47] making -the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ sixteen miles, as in the -Itinerary, instead of eight, as altered by Florez: a number, by the -way, which scarcely agrees better with the actual distance from Port St. -Mary's to Xeres--at which latter place he fixes Hasta--than the sixteen -miles of the original. - -The next place mentioned in the Itinerary is _Ugia_; determined, as has -been already stated, to have stood where Las Cabezas de San Juan is now -situated; and the distance from the _Mesa de Asta_ to this place, -passing through _Nebrissa_ (Lebrija--omitted in the Itinerary, as not -being a convenient halting-place for the troops), agrees tolerably well -with that specified, viz., twenty-seven Roman miles. The remaining -distances, viz., twenty-four miles to _Orippo_ (Dos Hermanos), and nine -to _Hispalis_ (Seville), agree yet better, though still somewhat below -the scale I have adopted. - -The appearance of Seville, approaching it on the side of the _Marisma_, -is by no means imposing. Stretching as the city does along the bank of -the Guadalquivír, its least diameter meets the view; and, from its -standing on a perfect flat, the walls by which it is encircled conceal -the most part of the houses, and take off from the height of the hundred -spires of its churches--the lofty _Giralda_ being the only conspicuous -object that presents itself above them. - -The wide avenue which, after crossing the river _Guadaira_, leads up to -the city gate, is, however, prepossessing; a spacious botanical garden -is on the left hand, and, in advance of the city walls, are the -Amphitheatre, the Royal Snuff Manufactory, and several other handsome -public buildings. - -Seville is generally considered,--at all events by its inhabitants,--the -largest city of Spain. It is of an oval shape, two miles long, and one -and a quarter broad; and, washed by the Guadalquivír on the eastern -side, is enclosed on the others by a patched-up embattled wall, the work -of all ages and nations. - -The city is tolerably free from suburbs, excepting at the Carmona and -_Rosario_ gates on its western side; but numerous extramural convents, -hospitals, barracks, and other public edifices, are scattered about in -different directions, which, with the town of Triana, on the opposite -bank of the river, materially increase the size of the place, and swell -the amount of its population to at least 100,000 souls. - -Seville cannot be called a handsome city, for it contains but one -tolerable street; the houses, however, are lofty, and generally well -built, the shops good, and the lamps within sight of each other, which -is not usually the case in Spanish towns. Most of the houses in the -principal thoroughfares are built with an edging of flat roof -overlooking the street. This part of the house is called the _Azotea_, -and, with the lower orders, serves the manifold purposes of a dormitory -in summer, a place for washing and drying clothes in winter, and a -place of assignation at all seasons. - -In hot weather awnings are spread from these _azoteas_ across the -streets, rendering them delightfully cool and shady; the canvass -covering, fanned by the breeze, sending down a refreshing air, whilst it -serves at the same time as a shelter from the sun. Even in the most -sultry days of summer, I have never found the streets of Seville -_impracticable_. - -There are several spacious squares in various parts of the city; in the -largest, distinguished by the extraordinary, though, perhaps, not -_unsuitable_ name of _La Plaza de la Incarnacion_, the market is held. -This is abundantly supplied with bread, meat, fish, poultry, and all -sorts of vegetables and fruits, and is, perhaps, the cheapest in -Andalusia; it certainly is the cleanest. - -The _Alamedas_, of which there are two, are equally as well taken care -of as the market, though in point of beauty they are not quite deserving -of the praise which has been bestowed upon them. One is in the interior -of the city, and becomes only a place of general resort when the weather -is unsettled. The other more commonly frequented walk is between the -walls of the town and the Guadalquivír, extending nearly a mile along -the bank of the river, from the _Torre del Oro_ to the bridge of boats -communicating with Triana. It is well sheltered with trees, and -furnished with seats, and is indeed a most delightful and amusing -promenade, being nightly crowded with all descriptions of people, from -the grandee of the first class to the goatskin clad swineherd, who -visits the city for a _sombrero_ of the _ultima moda_, or a fresh supply -of _bacallao_. - -The carriage drive round the walk is generally thronged with equipages -of all sorts and ages, any one of which, shown as a _spectacle_ in -England, would most assuredly make the exhibitor's fortune. The _blazon_ -on the pannels, and venerable cocked hats and laced coats of the drivers -and attendants, bespeak them, nevertheless, to belong to _sons of -somebody_; and the wives and daughters of somebody seated therein, seem -not a little proud of possessing these indubitable proofs of the -antiquity of their houses. Few of these distinguished personages, -however, excepting such as labour under the infliction of gout, -rheumatism, or the indelible marks of old age, are satisfied to remain -quiet spectators of the gay scene; but, after driving once or twice -round the _paseo_ to see _who_ has arrived, alight, and join the flutter -of their fans, and, with grief I say it, their loud laugh and -conversation to the already over-powering din of the "promiscuous -multitude." - -This scene of gaiety is prolonged until long after the sun has ceased -to gild the mirror-like surface of the Guadalquivír. The walk, indeed, -is still in its most fashionable state of throng, when a tinkling bell, -announcing the elevation of the Host, marks the concluding ceremony of -the vesper service in a neighbouring church. At this signal the motley -crowd appears as if touched by the wand of an enchanter. Each devout -Romanist either reverentially bends the knee, or stands statue-like on -the spot where the homage-commanding sound first reached the ear. The -men take off their hats--the ladies drop their fans. The coachmen check -their hacks--the hacks hang down their heads--not a whisper is heard, -not an eye is raised. The bell sounds a second time, and animation -returns, the breast is marked with repeated crosses, the dust brushed -off the knees, "_conques_" innumerable take up the interrupted -conversation, and once more - - "Soft eyes look love to eyes which speak again." - -So ludicrously observant are the Spaniards of this ceremony, that, on -the ringing of the bell, I once remarked a water-carrier stop in the -midst of his sonorous cry, "_A...._" and devoutly uncovering his head, -and crossing himself, wait until the second tinkle permitted him again -to open his mouth; when, with most comical gravity, he finished the -wanting syllable "_gua!_ _Agua fres--ca!_" - -The Guadalquivír is about 200 yards wide at Seville, where it forms a -kind of basin, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons burthen. It is -so liable to be swollen by the freshes poured down from the mountains in -the upper part of its course, that a permanent bridge has never been -attempted; and the banks are so low, that the floods have frequently -reached to the very gates of the city. The influence of the tide is felt -some little distance above Seville, rendering the water of the river -unfit for general purposes. The water of the wells, on the other hand, -is considered unwholesome, so that the city is, in a great measure, -dependent for its supply of this most necessary article on an aqueduct, -that brings a stream from _Alcalà de Guadaira_, a distance of about nine -miles. - -The populous town of Triana is still worse off than Seville, for, as the -expedient of a leather pipe has not yet been thought of, the "essential -fluid" has to be carried across the river on men's or asses' backs, -rendering it a most expensive article of consumption; a circumstance -that accounts, in a great measure, for the very Egyptian complexion of -the inhabitants. - -The public buildings of Seville fully entitle the city to its boasted -title of the Western Capital of Spain. It contains no less than sixty -convents and nunneries, besides numerous other religious establishments -and hospitals. The Archiepiscopal Church is the largest in Spain,[48] -its dimensions being 450 feet by 260; and it is one of the most splendid -piles in the universe. The architecture of the exterior is heavy and -tasteless, so that one is but little prepared for the striking change -which meets the eye on drawing aside the ponderous leathern curtain that -closes the portal, and entering the vast vaulted interior. - -It is built in the gothic style, not of a florid kind, however, but -simple, aërial, and imposing. The colour of the free stone used in its -construction is a subdued white; the pavement is laid in squares of -black and white marble, and the stained glass windows, which are of -extreme beauty, shed a warm, variegated glow throughout the building, -that produces an effect well suited to its character. Indeed, no -cathedral that I have any where seen either presents a more striking -coup d'oeil, or draws forth, in a greater degree, that instinctive -feeling of devotion implanted in the human breast. The walls, too, are -not so disfigured with tawdry chapels, as those of most Roman Catholic -churches, and the few paintings with which they are decorated are _chef -d'oeuvres_ of the best Spanish masters. - -One modern painting has, however, been admitted to the collection, -rather, I should think, out of compliment to the ladies of Seville, than -on account of its own merit. It represents two maidens of this saintly -city, who, "_mucho tiempo hay_,"[49] to use our conductor's expression, -having been accused of some heretical practices, were exposed to be -devoured by a ferocious lion. The gallant sovereign of the woods and -forests, instead, however, of making a meal of these tempting morsels of -human flesh and imagined frailty, "_se echó à sus pies_," and began -caressing them after his feline fashion, to the great astonishment of -all beholders! This miraculous want of appetite on the part of the lion, -making the innocence of the damsels evident, led, of course, to their -liberation, and their names are now enrolled upon the long list of -saints of Seville. - -The tower of the cathedral, commonly called _La Giralda_, from a -colossal statue of _Faith_, at its summit, which, with strange -inconsistency of character, wheels about at every change of wind, is by -no means a handsome structure. It was built by the Moors, about 250 -years before the city was captured by San Fernando, and originally was -only 280 feet in height; but a belfry has since been added, which makes -it altogether 364 feet high. The tower is fifty feet square, and the -ascent is effected by an inclined plane, by means of which, some queen -of Spain is rumoured to have ridden on horseback to the gallery under -the belfry. - -The view from the summit of the tower fully repays one, even for the -labour of ascending it on foot, and I am not quite sure but that the -inclined plane rather increases than lessens the fatigue of mounting. -From hence alone can a correct idea be formed of the size and splendour -of Seville. The eye, from this elevation, embraces the whole extent of -the city, its long narrow streets, wide circuit of walls, its gateways, -magnificent public buildings, and spacious plazas, its verdant -orangeries, and its house-top flower-gardens. Beyond the busy city, a -fruitful plain extends for several miles in every direction; on one side -bearing luxuriant crops of corn and olives, on the other, giving pasture -to countless herds of cattle; the lovely Guadalquivír winding through -and fertilizing the whole. - -The Archiepiscopal palace occupies one side of a small square, that is -immediately under the _Giralda_; the façade of this building is -handsome, but we had not an opportunity of seeing the interior, as its -worthy occupier was unwell. Near the cathedral, but on the opposite side -to the Archbishop's residence, is the _Lonja_; a splendid edifice, which -(as the name implies) was originally built for an exchange. But, though -the lower suites of apartments are still set apart for the use of the -merchants, the building is so inconveniently situated, that no -commercial business is transacted there, and the whole of the upper -story has been fitted up as a repository for the "American archives." -These records are most voluminous, and are preserved with as much care, -and ticketed with as great regularity, as if Spain shortly intended to -resume the sovereignty over her former vast transatlantic possessions. - -As a mark of especial favour, the tip of my little finger was permitted -to rest upon the edge of the first letter written from the _other -world_; the keeper of the archives requesting me, at the same time, not -to press too hard upon the valuable MS., and assuring us, that most -persons were obliged to be satisfied with looking at the precious -document bearing the signature of the adventurous Columbus, in its glass -case. - -The whole of the shelves, drawers, &c., are of cedar; a wood which has -the property of preserving the papers committed to their charge from all -descriptions of insects. The floors are laid in chequers of red and blue -marble, and the grand staircase is composed of the same, which is highly -polished and remarkably handsome. One of the apartments of the vast -quadrangle contains two original paintings of Columbus and Hernan -Cortes. - -A little removed from the _Lonja_, is the _Alcazar_, or Royal Palace. -This is kept up in a kind of half-dress state, and has a governor -appointed to its peculiar charge, who usually resides within its -precincts. It is built in the Moorish style, and is generally supposed -to have been the work of Moorish hands, though raised only--so at least -a Gothic inscription on its walls is said to state--by "the puissant -King of Castile and Leon, Don Pedro." - -There is probably some little exaggeration in this, and, in point of -fact, perhaps, the mighty monarch only repaired and added to the palace -of the Moorish kings, which the neglect of a hundred years had, in his -time, rendered uninhabitable. It is a very inferior piece of workmanship -to the Alhambra, but, nevertheless, contains much to admire, -particularly the ceilings of the apartments (of which there are upwards -of seventy), and the walls of one of the courts. - -The different towers command very fine views over the city and adjacent -country, and the gardens are delightful, though of but small extent. The -walks are laid with tiles, between which little tubes are introduced -vertically, that communicate with waterpipes underneath, and, by merely -turning a screw, the whole of the valves of these tubes are -simultaneously opened, and each shoots forth a diminutive stream of -water. This plan was adopted, as being an improvement on the tedious -method usually practised in watering gardens. It affords the facetiously -disposed a glorious opportunity of inflicting a practical joke upon -unwary visiters to the Alcazar; who, conducted to the garden, and then -and there seduced, out of mere politeness, to join in the complaint -expressed of a want of rain, suddenly find themselves _over_ a heavy -shower, and under the necessity of laughing at a piece of wit from which -there is no possibility of escape. - -The _Casa Pilata_ is another of the sights of Seville. It is a private -house, said to be built on the exact model of that of the Roman governor -of Jerusalem. It is fitted up with much taste, but its chief beauty -consists in a profusion of glazed tiles, which give it actual coolness, -as well as a refreshing look. - -Most of the other subjects worthy of the traveller's notice are situated -without the walls of the city. The first in order, issuing from the -Xeres gate, is the _Plaza de los Toros_, or amphitheatre, an immense -circus, one half built of stone, and the other half of wood, and capable -of accommodating 14,000 persons. The next remarkable object is the -_Royal Tobacco Manufactory_, (the term seems rather absurd to English -ears,) a huge edifice, so strongly built, and jealously defended by -walls and ditches, as to appear rather a detached fort, or citadel, -raised to overawe the turbulent city, than an establishment for -peacefully grinding tobacco leaves into snuff, and rolling them into -cigars. The manufactory employs 5000 persons, and of this number 2600 -are occupied solely in making cigars. But, as I have elsewhere shown, -even with the assistance of the Royal Manufactory lately established at -Malaga, the supply of _lawful_ cigars is not equal to one-tenth part of -the consumption of the country. - -The demand for snuff may probably be fully met by the Royal Manufactory; -for the Spaniards are not great consumers of tobacco through the medium -of the nose; and most of the snuffs prepared at Seville are extremely -pungent, so that "a little goes a great way." There is a coarse kind, -however, called, I think, "Spanish bran," which is much esteemed by -_connoisseurs_. - -The Royal Cannon Foundry is in the vicinity of the Tobacco Manufactory, -and though this establishment for furnishing the means of consuming -powder is not in such activity as its neighbour employed in supplying -food for smoke, yet it is in equally good order, and, on the whole, is a -very creditable national establishment. The brass pieces made here are -remarkably handsome, and very correctly bored, but they want the -lightness and finish of our guns--qualities in which English artillery -excels all others. Two of the "monster mortars," cast by the French for -the siege of Cadiz, are still preserved here. - -The Cavalry Barracks, Royal Saltpetre Manufactory, Military Hospital, -and various other edifices, planned on a scale proportioned to Spain's -_former_ greatness, together with numerous convents, equally -disproportioned to her present wants, follow in rapid succession in -completing the circuit of the walls. The most interesting amongst the -religious houses is a convent of Capuchins, situated near the Cordoba -gate. It contains twenty-five splendid paintings by Murillo, "any one of -which," as a modern writer has justly remarked, "would suffice to render -a man immortal." - -Murillo was certainly a perfect master of his art. His style is -peculiar, and in his early productions there is a coldness and formality -that partake of the school of Velasquez; but the works of his maturer -age are distinguished by a boldness of outline, a gracefulness of -grouping, and a depth and softness of colouring, which entitle him to -rank with Rubens and Correggio. - -The paintings of Murillo, though met with in all the best collections of -Europe, where they take their place amongst the works of the first -masters, are, nevertheless, valued by foreigners rather on account of -their rarity than of their execution. The fact is, those of his -paintings which have left Spain are nearly all devoted to the same -subject--the Madonna and Child; and, even in that, offer but little -variety either in the disposition, or in the colouring of the figures. -The Spanish artist is, consequently, accused of want of genius and -self-plagiarism. Nor does Murillo receive due credit for the pains he -took in finishing his paintings; for, amongst those of his works which -have found their way into foreign collections, there are few which have -not received more or less damage, either in the transport from Spain, or -by subsequent neglect; and, in many instances, the attempts made to -restore them by cleaning or retouching have inflicted a yet more severe -injury upon them. - -Those persons only, therefore, who have visited Spain, and, above all, -Murillo's native city--Seville--can fully appreciate the merits of that -wonderful artist. The vast number of master-pieces which he has there -left behind him, and the variety of subjects they embrace, sufficiently -prove, however, that, whilst in versatility of talent he has been -equalled by few, in point of _industry_ he almost stands without a -rival. - -Besides the twenty-five paintings in the Capuchin convent, already -noticed, the _Hóspital de la Caridad_ contains several of Murillo's -master-pieces; two, in particular, are deserving of notice--the subjects -are, the miracle of the loaves and fishes, and Moses striking the rock. -The great size of these two paintings saved them from a journey to -Paris, but the French, in their zeal for the encouragement of the fine -arts, stripped the chapel of all the other works of Murillo that -enriched it--only a few of which were restored at the peace of 1815. - -Other paintings of the Spanish Rafael are to be found in the various -churches of Seville, and every private collector (of whom the city -contains many,) prides himself on being the possessor of at least one -_original_ of his illustrious fellow-citizen. - -The theatre of Seville has ever held a comparatively distinguished place -in the dramatic annals of Spain; and, lamentable as is the condition to -which the national stage has been reduced, the capital of Andalusia may -still be considered as one of the most _playgoing_ places in the -kingdom. This may, perhaps, partly be accounted for by the number of -dramatic authors to whom the city has given birth, partly by the -peculiar disposition of the inhabitants of the province, who are deeper -tinged with romance, and have more imagination than the rest of the -natives of the Peninsula. - -The deplorable atrophy under which the drama has of late years been -languishing in every part of Europe[50] had, aided by various -predisposing circumstances, long been undermining the at no-time very -robust constitution of the Spanish theatre; which, like a condemned -criminal, existed only from day to day, at the will and pleasure of a -despotic sovereign; and had, moreover, constantly to combat the -hostility of the priesthood: a bigoted race, prone at all times to -discourage an art, which, by enlarging the understandings of the -community, tended to diminish the respect with which their own profane -melo-dramatic mysteries were regarded. The priests, in fact, have always -been, and ever will be, averse to their flock being fleeced by any other -shears than their own. - -Considering, therefore, the obstacles which the Spanish theatre has had -to contend against, obstacles which were yet more formidable in that -country in times past than they are at the present day, it cannot but be -admitted that the drama was cultivated in Spain with a degree of success -which could little have been expected. - -Our own early dramatists, indeed, drew largely from the prolific sources -opened by Lope de Vega, Calderon, and other Spanish writers of the -sixteenth century; and, perhaps, to the example set by those authors is -our stage indebted for its release from the thraldom in which others -are yet held, by a preposterous, though _classic_, adherence to the -preservation of the unities. - -The drama (in the strict sense of the term) never, however, became a -popular amusement with the Spaniards generally. The legal disabilities -imposed upon the performers by the intrigues of the Romish church -brought the profession of an actor into disrepute, and, as a natural -consequence, checked the progress of the histrionic art. The stage had -no door opening to preferment, and the knight of the buskin (to whom, by -the way, the _Don_ was interdicted), though endowed with the talents of -a Talma or a Kemble, of a Liston or a Potier, ranked below the lowest of -the train of bullfighters, and could never expect to amass a fortune, or -hope to be considered otherwise than as a "diverting vagabond." A -Spanish actress was yet more discouragingly circumstanced, as, however -irreproachable her character, she held only the same grade in society as -the frail Ciprian whose beauty gained her livelihood. - -Labouring under such disadvantages, it is not surprising, therefore, -that Thalia and Euterpe should eventually have been driven from the -Spanish stage, and a licentious monster--the illegitimate offspring of -Comus and Impudicitia--have been crowned with the palm-wreath snatched -from the brows of the immortal Parnassides. - -The modern Spanish dramatic authors--if it be not profanation so to call -them--pandering to the vitiated taste of the day, indulge in all the -licence of Aristophanes, without varnishing their obscenities with the -brilliancy of his wit. They write, in fact, for auditors, who, whilst -endowed with a quick perception of the ridiculous, are too ignorant to -discriminate between right and wrong, and cannot perceive where -legitimate satire ends, and libertinism commences; who, possessing a -vast stock of native wit, inherit with it a coarse, degenerate taste. -The human frailties of the monastic orders are, consequently, the -favourite subjects now held up to ridicule on the stage, as if to prove -the truth of Voltaire's lines, - - _"Les prêtres ne sont point ce qu'un vain peuple pense, - _Notre credulité fait toute leur science_;"_ - -and no modern _saynete_[51] is considered perfect, unless some member of -their church is brought forward to serve as a recipient for the ribald -jokes of an Andalusian _majo_, or to become the amatory dupe of an -intriguing _graciosa_. - -These pieces are not suffered to appear in print; or rather, I should -say, perhaps, would not _sell_ if they were printed, for the press of -the day has far exceeded the bounds of decorum in giving light to many -of the somewhat less objectionable productions of _Sotomayor_, -_Comella_, and other prolific scribblers of Vaudevilles. The only modern -dramatic writers who have been at all successful in obtaining public -favour on worthier grounds, are _Iriate_, _Martinez de la Rosa_, and -_Moratin_, but their writings are by no means numerous. - -The plays of the last-named (who is considered the Terence of Spain) are -always well received at Seville, where the dramatic taste is somewhat -more refined than in the minor provincial towns. They are full of -incident, without being encumbered with plot, like those of the old -Spanish school; and the dialogue is natural and sprightly, without -falling into licentiousness or vulgarity. This author's translation of -Shakspeare's Hamlet is lamentably weak, however, for his language is not -sufficiently elevated for tragedy. To Molière he has done more justice. - -The Spanish language is remarkably well adapted to the stage, being not -less melodious than emphatic and dignified; and there is a raciness -about it well suited to comedy, though, on the whole, I should say, it -is better adapted for tragedy. The national taste is, however, in favour -of comedy, which, besides being more congenial to the character of the -people, speaks more intelligibly to their uncultivated understandings. -And, indeed, it must be confessed, that but for the infinite superiority -of the language, the long speeches of the heroes of Spanish tragedy -would be yet more wearying to listen to, than even the jingling, rhymed -declamations of the French drama. - -It is not surprising, therefore, that the impatient _Andaluzes_,--whose -whole thoughts are bent upon the coming Bolero and laughter-causing -farce,--should complain of the interminable "_platicas importunas_" of -their tragedies, and even of their _serious_ comedies; especially since -they are delivered in a diction which to the lower orders is almost -unintelligible, the dialogue being generally carried on in the second -person plural, _vos_: a style which is never now heard in common -parlance, and is, therefore, quite unnatural to them. - -I will, however, draw the curtain upon Spanish tragedy, and bring the -graceful _Baylarinas_ upon the stage; at the first click of whose -castañets, whilst even yet behind the scenes, every bright eye sparkles -with animation, and every tongue is silenced. - -The Bolero, which is the favourite national dance, admits of great -variety as well of figures as of movements, for it may be executed by -any number of persons, though two or four are generally preferred. It is -a purified kind of _Fandango_, and, when danced by Spaniards, is as -graceful and pleasing an exhibition as can be imagined. It is altogether -divested of those dervish-like gyrations, and other wonderful displays -of limbs and under-petticoats, that are so much the vogue on the boards -of London and Paris, and on which, in fact, the reputation of a -_Ballerina_ seems to depend. In Spain the taste in dancing has not yet -reached this pitch of refinement; for, even in the _Cachucha_, when the -dancer turns her back upon the spectators, a Spanish lady deems it -necessary to turn her face from the stage. - -The castañets, though furnishing but little to the entertainment in the -way of music, afford the performers the means of displaying their -figures to advantage; and are yet further useful, by giving employment -to the hands and arms; which, with most dancers, public as well as -private, are generally found to be very much in the way. - -There are other dances of a less _modest_ character than the _Bolero_, -which are performed at the minor theatres; but it may be said of Spanish -public dancing generally, that it is light, spirited, and _poetic_, and -admits of the display of considerable grace without being _indecent_. - -Although of all modern languages--that of dulcet Italy alone -excepted--the Spanish is the best adapted to song, yet the Spaniards -have little or no relish for musical entertainments. The truth is, they -are not a musical nation. In expressing this opinion, I am aware that I -declare war against a host of preconceived notions; but in proof of my -assertion I will ask, what country possesses so little national music as -Spain? Has a single _known_ opera ever been produced there? Is not her -church music all borrowed? Is not the trifling guitar the only -instrument the Spaniard is really master of? Is not the _Sostenuto_ -bellow of the _arriero_ almost the only approach to melody that the -peasant ever attempts? - -Spanish music consists of a few simple airs, which are probably -heir-looms of the Saracens; and a medley of _Boleros_, that may be -considered mere variations of one tune. Neither their vocal nor -instrumental performances ever reach beyond mediocrity, and in concert -they invariably sing and play _a faire casser la tête_. - -A fine climate and a gregarious disposition lead the peasantry to -assemble nightly, and amuse themselves by dancing and singing to the -monotonous thrumming of a cracked guitar; and this habit has earned for -the nation the character of being musical--a character to which the -Spaniards are little better entitled than the _Tom Tom_-loving black -_apprentices_ of our West India islands. - -There are exceptions to every rule, and I willingly admit that I have -heard an opera of Rossini very well performed by Spanish "_artists_." -But that they do not _pride themselves_ on being a musical nation is -evident from their always preferring Italian music to their own, though -they like to sing Spanish words to an Italian opera. - -The Theatre is a place of fashionable resort at Seville. It fills up a -vacuum between the Paseo and the Tertulia. And when the times are -sufficiently quiet to warrant the outlay, a sufficient sum is subscribed -to bribe a second-rate Italian company to expose their melodious throats -to the baneful influence of the sea breezes. The house is large and -rather tastily decorated, but so ill-shaped that, unless one is close to -the stage, not a word can be heard; and if there, the prompter's voice -completely drowns those of the performers. The fall of the curtain at -the conclusion of the _Bolero_ is generally the signal for the _beau -monde_ to retire, leaving the highly seasoned _Saynete_ to the enjoyment -of the "_gente baja y desreglada_."[52] - -This breaking up is not the least amusing part of the play. The -antediluvian carriages are again put in requisition; and now, besides -the cocked-hatted attendants, each vehicle is accompanied by two or more -torch-bearers on foot; so that the blaze of light on first issuing from -the Theatre is most dazzling and astounding,--astounding, because it is -only on walking into the gutter, or over a heap of filth in the first -cross street one has occasion to enter, that the want of lamps in these -minor avenues renders the utility of this extraordinary illumination -apparent. - -Each carriage, after "taking up," moves majestically off, its -torch-bearers running ahead to show the way, scattering long strings of -sparks, like comets' tails, amongst the humble pedestrians. - -The Tertulias commence after the families have supped at their -respective houses, that is to say, at about eleven o'clock; and are -generally kept up until a late hour. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - SOCIETY OF SEVILLE--SPANISH WOMEN--FAULTS OF EDUCATION--EVILS OF - EARLY MARRIAGES, AND MARRIAGES DE CONVENANCE--ENVIRONS OF - SEVILLE--TRIANA--SAN JUAN DE ALFARACHE--SANTI PONCE--RUINS OF - ITALICA--ITALICA NOT SO ANCIENT A CITY AS HISPALIS--YOUNG PIGS AND - THE MUSES--DEPARTURE FROM SEVILLE--THE MARQUES DE LAS - AMARILLAS--WEAKNESS, DECEIT, AND INJUSTICE OF THE LATE KING OF - SPAIN--ALCALA DE GUADAIRA--UTRERA--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRATEGICAL - IMPORTANCE OF THIS TOWN--MORON--MILITARY OPERATIONS OF - RIEGO--APATHY OF THE SERRANOS DURING THE CIVIL WAR--OLBERA--REMARKS - ON THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS. - - -The society of Seville is divided into nearly as many circles as there -are degrees in the Mohammedans paradise. In former days, the bounds of -each were marked with _heraldic_ precision, and those of the innermost -were guarded as jealously from trespass as the precincts of a royal -forest, but of late years politics have materially injured the fences. -The fine edged bridge of _Sirat_ is no longer difficult of passage, and -a foreigner, in especial, provided some mufti of the Aristocracy but -holds out his hand to him, may reach the seventh heaven without the -slightest chance of stumbling over his pedigree. - -The English, above all other foreigners, are favourably received at -Seville, for the nobles of the South of Spain, not being so much under -court influence as those of the provinces lying nearer the capital, are -by no means distinguished for their love of _absolutism_. With some few, -indeed, the want of courtly sunshine has engendered excessive -liberalism; but the nobles of Andalusia generally may be considered as -favourably disposed towards a limited monarchy--that is, are of -moderate, or what they term _English_, politics. - -Of persons of such a political bias is the first circle of the society -of Seville composed, and it is, perhaps, in every respect, the best in -the kingdom. It is adorned by many men of highly cultivated talents, and -much theoretical information, who, with a sincere love of country at -their hearts, are yet not arrogantly blind to the faults of its former -and present institutions; and who, removed to a certain extent from the -baneful influence of a corrupt court, are proportionably free from the -demoralising vices which distinguish the society of the upper classes in -the capital. - -The ladies of the _exclusive_ circle are, it must needs be confessed, -deficient in education: but they possess great natural abilities, a -wonderful flow of language, and--excepting that they will pitch their -voices so high--peculiarly fascinating manners. - -The morals of Spanish women have usually been commented upon with -unsparing severity; it strikes me, however, that the moral _principle_ -is as strong in them as in the natives of any other country or climate. -The constancy of Spanish women, when once their affections have been -placed on any object, is, indeed, proverbial, and if they are but too -frequently faithless to the marriage vow, the source of corruption may -be traced, _first_, to the lamentable religious education they -receive--since the demoralizing doctrines of the efficacy of penance and -absolution in the remission of sins furnish them at all times with a -ready palliative; and, _secondly_, to the habit of contracting early -marriages, and, especially, _marriages de convenance_, by which, in -their anxiety to see their daughters well established, parents--and -above all Spanish parents--are apt to sacrifice, not only their -children's happiness, but their honour. - -Of all the evils under which Spanish society labours, this last is the -most serious as well as most apparent. A marriage of this kind, in nine -cases out of ten, tends to demorality. It is followed by immediate -neglect on the part of the husband, whose affections were already placed -elsewhere when he gave his hand at the altar; and is soon regarded by -the wife merely as a civil compact, to which the usages of society -oblige her to subscribe. With _her_, however, this state of things had -not been anticipated. The innate, all-powerful feeling, _love_, had, up -to this period, lain dormant within her breast--for in Spain, if the -extremely early age at which females marry did not of itself warrant -this supposition, the little intercourse which, under any circumstances, -an unmarried woman (of the upper classes of society) has with the world, -naturally leads to the conclusion that her affections had not previously -been engaged; she expects, therefore, to receive from her husband the -same boundless affection that her inexperienced heart is disposed to -bestow on him;--and what is the inevitable consequence? Disappointed in -her cherished hope of occupying the first place in her husband's -affections, her innocence is tarnished at the very outset, by thus -acquiring the knowledge of his turpitude; she turns from him with -disgust; and her better feelings, seared by jealousy and wounded pride, -seeks out some other object on whom to bestow the love slighted by him, -who pledged himself to cherish it. - -Thrown thus at an early age upon the world, without the least experience -in its ways, with strong passions to lead, and evil examples to seduce -her, is it surprising that a Spanish wife should wander from the path of -virtue, and that she should hold constancy to her lover more sacred than -fidelity to a husband who quietly submits to see another possess her -affections? - -The understanding once established, however, that jealousy is not to -disturb the ménage, the parties live together with all the outward -appearances of mutual esteem, and inflict the history of their private -bickerings only upon their favoured friends. - -The Spaniards of all classes have great conversational powers, but even -those of the upper are sadly deficient in general information. Their -knowledge of other nations is picked up entirely from books, and those -books mostly old ones; for few works are now written in their own -language, and still fewer are translated from those of other countries; -so that what little knowledge of mankind they possess is of the last -century. - -Cards help out the conversation at the Tertulias of the first circle. -Dancing, forfeits, and other puerile games, are the resources of the -rest. Balls and suppers are _funciones_ reserved for great occasions, -and dinner parties are of equally rare occurrence. - -In the entertainments of the nobility, the French style prevails even to -the wines, but the national dish, the _olla_, generally serves as a -prelude, and may be considered the "_piece de resistance_" of the -interminable dinner. Toothpicks (!!) and coffee are handed round, and -the party breaks up, to seek in the _siesta_ renewed powers of -digestion. - -To those, however, who think exercise more conducive to health, the -environs of Seville hold out plenty of attractions; and, if the weather -be too hot for either walking or riding, the city contains hackney -coaches and _calesas_ without number, by means of which (most of the -roads in the vicinity being level) the various interesting points may be -reached without difficulty or inconvenience. - -The places most deserving of a visit in the immediate environs of -Seville, are the villages of _San Juan de Alfarache_ and _Santi Ponce_; -near the latter of which are the ruins of Italica. - -Both these places are situated on the right bank of the Guadalquivír; -the former, about three miles below Seville, the latter a little more -distant, up the stream. The road to both traverses the long town of -Triana, which contains nothing worthy of observation but a sombre gothic -edifice, where the high altar of Popish bigotry, the Inquisition, was -first raised in the Spanish dominions. It has long, however, been -converted to another purpose, never, let us hope, to be again applied to -that which for so many ages disgraced Christianity. - -By many Triana is supposed to be the Osset of Pliny, but I think without -sufficient reason, as it does not seem probable that a place merely -divided from Seville by a narrow river should have been distinguished by -him as a distinct city. The words of Pliny, "_ex adverso oppidum -Osset_," imply certainly that Osset stood on the opposite bank of the -river to Hispalis, but not that it was situated _immediately opposite_, -as some authors have translated it. It is yet more evident that Alcalà -de Guadaira cannot be Osset, as supposed by Harduin, since that town is -on the _same_ side of the Guadalquivír as Seville. - -Florez imagines Osset to have been where San Juan de Alfarache now -stands,[53] near which village traces of an ancient city have been -discovered; and the position occupied by an old Moorish castle, on the -edge of a high cliff, impending over the river, and commanding its -navigation, seems clearly to indicate the site of a Roman station, since -the Saracens usually erected their castles upon the foundations of the -dilapidated fortresses of their predecessors. The village of San Juan de -Alfarache stands at the foot of the before-mentioned cliff, compressed -between it and the Guadalquivír; which river, making a wide sweep to the -north on leaving Seville, here first reaches the roots of the chain of -hills bounding the extensive plain through which it winds its way to the -sea, and is by them turned back into its original direction. - -Of the Moorish fortress little now remains but the foundation walls; the -stones of the superstructure having probably been used to build the -church and convent that now occupy the plateau of the hill. The view -from thence is quite enchanting, embracing a long perspective of the -meandering Guadalquivír and its verdant plain, the whole extent of the -shining city, and the distant blue outline of the Ronda mountains. - -The hills rising at the back of the convent are thickly covered with -olive trees, the fruit of which is the most esteemed of all Spain: and, -indeed, those who have eaten them on the spot, if they like the flavour -of olive rather than of salt and water, would say they are the best in -the world. The fruit is suffered to hang upon the tree until it has -attained its full size, and consequently will not bear a long journey. -For the same reason, it will not keep any length of time, as the salt in -which it is preserved cannot penetrate to a sufficient depth in its oily -flesh to secure it from decay. Let no one say, however, that he dislikes -_olives_, until he has been to San Juan de Alfarache. - -Retracing our steps some way towards Seville, we reach the great road -leading from that city into Portugal by way of Badajoz; and, continuing -along the plain for about five miles, we arrive at the priory of Santi -Ponce, situated on the margin of the Guadalquivír, and close to the -ruins of Italica. So complete has been the destruction of this once -celebrated city, the birth-place of three Roman Emperors, that, but for -the vestiges of its spacious amphitheatre, one would be inclined to -doubt whether any town could possibly have stood upon the spot; the more -so as the vicinity of Seville seems, at first sight, to render it -improbable that two such large cities would have been built within so -short a distance of each other. - -Opinions on the subject of the relative antiquity of these two cities -are, however, very various; for, whilst some Spaniards are to be found, -who maintain that Hispalis was founded long before Italica, and some -who, declaring, on the other hand, that the two cities never existed -together, insist on calling Italica, _Sevilla la Vieja_;[54] others -there are who suppose that the two cities flourished contemporaneously -for a considerable period, and that Hispalis (the more modern of the -two) eventually caused the other's destruction. - -This last hypothesis might readily be received, since, from the -influence of the tide being felt at Seville and not at Santi Ponce, the -situation of the former is so much more favourable for trade than that -of the latter; but that, setting aside the traditionary authority of -Seville having been founded by _Hispalis_, one of the companions of -Hercules, we have the testimony of several writers to prove that -Hispalis was a place of consequence when Italica must have been yet in -its infancy. For the antiquity of this latter is never carried further -back than the 144th Olympiad, i.e. 200 B.C. Now, Hispalis is mentioned -by Hirtius, at no very great period after that date, as a city of great -importance; whereas, Italica is noticed by him (proving it to have been -a _distinct_ place) merely as a walled town in the vicinity.[55] - -The two places are again mentioned separately by Pliny; the one, -however, as a large city, giving its name to a vast extent of -country--the _Conventus Hispalensis_--the other as one of the towns -within the limits of that city's jurisdiction. - -The foundation of Italica being fixed, therefore, about two hundred -years before the Christian era, and attributed to the veteran soldiers -of P. C. Scipio; that is to say, immediately after the expulsion of the -Carthagenians from the country; it may naturally be concluded that the -Romans, who had not come to Spain merely to drive out their rivals, -would, with their usual foresight, have planted a colony of their own -people to overawe the _principal city_ of a country they intended to -bring under subjection; and hence, that Seville existed long before -Italica was founded. - -The amphitheatre, which alone remains to prove the former grandeur of -Italica, is of a wide oval shape. The dimensions of its arena are 270 -feet in its greatest diameter, 190 in its least. It rests partly against -a hill, a circumstance that has tended materially to save what little -remains of it from destruction; but, nevertheless, only nine tiers of -seats have offered a successful resistance to the encroachments of the -plough. Few of the vomitorios can be traced, but it would appear that -there were sixteen. Some of the caverns in which the wild beasts were -confined are in tolerable preservation. - -From the ruined amphitheatre we were conducted to a kind of pound, -enclosed by a high mud wall, and secured by a stout gate, wherein we -were informed other reliques of Italica were preserved. There was some -little delay in obtaining the key of this _museo_, the _custodio_ being -at his _siesta_; and, hearing the grunting of pigs within, we began to -doubt whether it could contain any thing worth detaining us under a -broiling sun to see. Unwilling, however, to be disappointed, we -clambered with some little difficulty to the top of the wall, and, -_horresco referens!_ beheld an old sow rubbing her back against that of -the Emperor Hadrian, whilst the profane snouts of her young progeny were -grubbing at the tesselated cheeks of Clio and Urania, the only two of -the immortal Nine whose features could be distinctly traced in an -elaborate mosaic pavement that covered the greater part of the court. - -Several fragments of statues were strewed about; but all were in too -mutilated a state to excite the least interest. The feeling with which -we contemplated the beautiful, outraged pavement, was one of unmitigated -disgust; for the workmanship of such parts of it as remained intact was -of the most delicate description, the stones not being more than one -fifth of an inch square, and, as far as we could judge, put together so -as to form a picture of great merit. I fear that this valuable specimen -of the art has long since been altogether lost, for, at the time of -which I write, the stones were lying in heaps about the yard, and the -pavement seemed likely to be subjected to a continuance of the mining -operations of the "swinish multitude," as well as to exposure to the -destructive ravages of the elements. - -I could not refrain from expostulating with the owner of the piggery -(when he at length made his appearance) at this, in the words of Don -Quijote, _puerco y extraordinario abuso_. He was a wag, however, and -answered my "Why do you keep your pigs here?" precisely in the words -that an Irish peasant replied to a very similar question, viz., "But am -I to have the company of the pig?" put to him by a friend of mine, who -had a billet for a night's lodging on his cabin: to wit, "_No hay toda -comodidad_?" "Isn't there every convey'nance?" - -We then attempted to persuade him that the pigs being young and -inexperienced would probably kill themselves by swallowing the little -square stones piled up against the walls, when the supply of Indian corn -failed them. "No, Señor," he replied; "_el Puerco es un animal que tiene -mas sesos que una casa_." "The hog is an animal that has more (sesos) -brains (or bricks) than a house." And, indeed, the discrimination of the -animal is wonderful, for, whilst we were yet arguing the case, one of -the little brutes grubbed up the entire left cheek of Calliope, to get -at a grain of corn that had fallen into one of the numerous crow's feet -with which unsparing Time had furrowed the Muse's animated countenance. -Without further observation, therefore, we abandoned the chaste -daughters of Mnemosyne to their ignominious fate, remounted our horses, -and bent our steps homewards. - -The foreigner who visits Seville, under any circumstances, cannot but -find it a most delightful place, and our short sojourn at it was -rendered particularly agreeable by the kindness and hospitality of the -_Marques de las Amarillas_, who, independent of the pleasure it at all -times affords him to show his regard for the English, whom he considers -as his old brothers in arms, was pleased to express peculiar -gratification at having an opportunity of evincing his sense of some -trifling attentions that it had been in my power to pay his only son, -when, as well as himself, driven by political persecution to seek a -refuge within the walls of Gibraltar. - -The life of this distinguished nobleman, now Duke of Ahumado, has been -singularly varied by the smiles and frowns of fortune, and furnishes a -melancholy proof of the little that can be effected by talents, however -exalted, and patriotism, however pure, in a country writhing, like -Spain, under the combined torments of religious and political -revolution. For, the more sincere a lover of his country he who puts -himself forward, _having aught to lose_, may be, the more he becomes an -object of distrust and envy to _the many_, who seek in change but their -own aggrandizement. To him who would take the helm of affairs in times -of revolution, an unscrupulous conscience is yet more necessary than the -possession of extraordinary talents. - -The Marques de las Amarillas, well known in the "Peninsular War" as -General Giron, was appointed minister at war in the first cabinet formed -by Ferdinand VII. after he had sworn to the Constitution. A sincere -lover of rational liberty, and a strong advocate for a mixed form of -government, the Marques, himself a soldier, saw the danger of permitting -the very existence of the government to be at the mercy of the -undisciplined rabble army, that, seduced by its democratic leaders for -their own private ends, had effected the revolution; and had projected a -plan for its partial reduction and entire reorganization. - -The _Exaltados_, however, fearful lest the establishment of a _rational_ -form of government should result from a project which certainly would -have had the effect of allaying the existing agitation, accused the -Marques of a plot to subvert the constitution, and restore Ferdinand to -a despotic throne; and he was obliged to save himself from the impending -danger by a rapid flight, and to take refuge within the walls of -Gibraltar. There he remained during the period of misrule that preceded -the invasion of the country by the Duc d'Angoulême in 1823; suffering, -during the feeble struggle that ensued, from the most painfully -conflicting feelings that could possibly enter a patriot's breast. For, -aware that his unhappy country had but the sad alternative of a -continuance in anarchy and misery, or of bending the neck to foreign -dictation, and receiving back the cast-off yoke of a despot, he could -take no active part in a struggle which, end as it would, was fraught -with mischief to his native land. - -It ended, as he had always foreseen, in the restoration of the -despicable monarch, who possessed neither the courage to draw the sword -in defence of what he conceived to be his _rights_, nor the virtue to -adhere to the word pledged to his people; who by his contemptible -intrigues exposed, and by his vacillating plans sacrificed, his most -devoted adherents; who with his dying breath bequeathed the scourge of -civil war to his wretched country; whose very existence, in fine, was as -hurtful to Spain, as is the odour of the upas-tree to the incautious -traveller who rests beneath its shade. - -The contemptible Ferdinand, restored to his throne, forbade the _Marques -de las Amarillas_ to present himself in the capital--the crime of having -held office in a constitutional cabinet being considered quite -sufficient to warrant the infliction of such a punishment. Some ten -years afterwards, however, he was, through the influence of his -relatives, the Dukes of Baylen and Infantado, appointed captain-general -of Andalusia, and on the death of Ferdinand was called to Madrid, to -form one of the Council of Regency. - -He again held a distinguished post in the Torreno administration, and -again fell under the displeasure of the anarchists--his talents had less -influence than the halbert of Serjeant Gomez. - -These are not merely "_cosas de España_," however, but have been, and -will be, those of every country where the hydra, democracy, is -cherished. God grant that our own may be preserved from the many-headed -monster! - -We quitted Seville only "upon compulsion" (our leave of absence being -limited), making choice of a road which, though, by visiting Moron and -Ronda, it proceeds rather circuitously to Gibraltar, traverses a more -romantic and picturesque portion of the Serranía than any other. The -most direct of the numerous roads that offer themselves between Seville -and the British fortress, is by way of Dos Hermanos, Coronil, Ubrique, -and Ximena. - -The first place lying upon the road we selected is Alcalà de Guadaira. -This town is distant about eight miles from Seville (though generally -marked much less on the maps), and is the first post station on the -great road from Seville to Madrid. - -For the first five miles from Seville the road traverses a gently -undulated country, that is chiefly planted with corn; but, on drawing -near Alcalà, the features of the ground become more strongly marked, and -are clothed with olive and other trees; and amongst the hills that -encompass the town rise the copious springs which, led into a conduit, -supply Seville with water. Alcalà administers to yet another of the -great city's most material wants, for it almost exclusively furnishes -Seville with bread, whence it has received the agnomen of "_de los -panaderos_" (of the bread-makers), as well as that of "_de Guadaira_," -which it takes from the river that runs in its vicinity. The numerous -mills situated along the course of this stream, by furnishing easy means -of grinding corn, probably led the inhabitants of Alcalà to engage in -the extensive kneading and baking operations which are carried on there. - -The immediate approach to the town is by a narrow gorge between two -steep hills; that on the right, which is the more elevated of the two, -and very rugged and difficult of access, is washed on three sides by the -Guadaira, and crowned with extensive ruins of a Moorish fortress. The -town itself is pent in between these two hills and the river, and, there -can be but little doubt, occupies the site of some Roman city, its -situation being quite such as would have been chosen by that people. - -That it is not on the site of Osset is, as I have before observed, quite -evident, and its present name, being completely Moorish, furnishes no -clue whatever to discover that which it formerly bore. Some have -supposed it is Orippo; but inscriptions found at Dos Hermanos determine -that place to be on the ruins of the said Roman town. Possibly--for such -a supposition accords with the order in which the towns of the county -of Hispalis are mentioned by Pliny--Alcalà may be Vergentum. - -It is a long dirty town, full of ovens and charcoal, and contains a -population of 3000 souls. The chaussée to Madrid, by Cordoba, here -branches off to the left; whilst that to Xeres and Cadiz, crossing the -Guadaira, is directed far inland upon Utrera, rendering it extremely -circuitous. A more direct road strikes off from it immediately after -crossing the river, proceeding by way of Dos Hermanos. - -We still continued to pursue the great road, which, after ascending a -range of hills that rises along the left bank of the Guadaira, traverses -a perfectly flat country, abounding in olives, that extends all the way -to Utrera, a distance of eleven miles. - -Utrera thus stands in the midst of a vast plain, that may be considered -the first step from the marshes of the Guadalquivír, towards the Ronda -mountains, which are yet twelve miles distant to the eastward. A slight -mound, that rises in the centre of the town, and is embraced by an -extensive circuit of dilapidated walls, doubtless offered the inducement -to build a town here; and these walls, some parts of which are very -lofty, and in a tolerably perfect state, appear to be Roman, though the -castle and its immediate outworks are Moorish. - -What the ancient name of the town was would, without the help of -monuments or inscriptions, be now impossible to determine, but it -certainly did not lie upon either of the routes laid down in the -Itinerary of Antoninus, between Cadiz and Cordoba, though some have -imagined it to be Ilipa.[56] Others have supposed it to be Siarum; but -adopting Harduin's reading of Pliny--"Caura, Siarum," instead of -Caurasiarum--it seems more likely that Utrera was Caura, and that Moron, -or some other town yet more distant from Seville, was Siarum. - -By its present name it is well known in Moorish history, its rich -_campiña_ having frequently been ravaged by the Moslems, after they had -been driven from the open country to seek shelter in the neighbouring -mountains. - -At the present day, it is celebrated only for its breeds of saints and -bulls, the former ranked amongst the most devout, the latter the most -ferocious, of Andalusia. The town is large, and not walled in; the -streets are wide and clean, and a plentiful stream rises near and -traverses the place--remarkable as being the only running water within a -circuit of several miles. It contains 15,000 inhabitants, mostly -agriculturists, and a very tolerable inn. - -Utrera, as has already been observed, is situated on the _arrecife_, or -great road, from Cadiz to Madrid, which _arrecife_ makes two -considerable elbows to visit this place and Alcalà. Now from Utrera -there is a cross-road to Carmona (which town is also situated on the -great route to the capital), that, by avoiding Alcalà, reduces the -distance between the two places from seven to six leagues; and from -Utrera there is also another cross-road (by way of Arajal) to Ecija, -which, by cutting off another angle made by the _arrecife_, effects a -yet greater saving in the distance to that city, and consequently to -Cordoba and Madrid. From these circumstances, Utrera becomes, in -military phrase, an important _strategical_ point; and as such, the -French, when advancing upon Cadiz in 1810, attempted to gain it by the -cross-road from Ecija, ere the Duke of Albuquerque, who had taken post -at Carmona, with the view of covering Seville, could reach it by the -_arrecife_. The duke, however, with great judgment, abandoned Seville to -what he well knew must eventually be its fate, and by a rapid march -saved Cadiz, though not without having to engage in a cavalry skirmish -to cover his retreat. - -What important consequences hung upon the decision of that moment; for -how different might have been the result of the war, had the important -fortress of Cadiz fallen into the enemy's hands, and given them 30,000 -disposable troops at that critical juncture![57] - -On issuing from Utrera, we once more quit the chaussée (which is -henceforth directed very straight upon Xeres), and, taking an easterly -course, proceed towards a lofty mountain, that, seemingly detached from -the serrated mass, juts slightly forward into the plain. - -At the distance of six miles from Utrera, the ground, which thus far is -quite flat and very barren, begins to be slightly undulated, and is here -and there dotted with _cortijos_ and corn fields; and, at eight miles -from Utrera, a road crosses from Arajah to Coronil; the first-named town -being distant about two miles on the left, the latter half a league on -the right. For the next league the country is one waving corn-field. At -the end of that distance we reached the steep banks of a rivulet, which -here first issues from the mountains, and is called _El Salado de -Moron_. The road crosses to the right bank of this stream, on gaining -which it immediately turns to the north (keeping parallel to the ridge -of the detached mountain, upon which, as I have already noticed, it had -previously been directed), and ascends very gradually towards Moron. The -country, during this latter portion of the road, is partially wooded. -The total distance from Utrera to Moron is about sixteen miles. - -Moron is singularly situated, being nestled in the lap of five distinct -hills, the easternmost and loftiest of which is occupied by an old -castle, a mixed work of the Romans and Moors. - -According to La Martinière, Moron is on the site of Arunci; and this -opinion seems to rest on a better foundation than that of other authors, -who maintain that Arcos occupies the position of the above-named ancient -city; for it is natural to suppose that the territory of the _Celtici_ -(amongst whose towns _Arunci_ is enumerated by Pliny) did not extend -beyond the intricate belt of mountains known at the present day as the -_Serranía de Ronda_. Now, Moron commands one of the principal entrances -to the Serranía, whereas Arcos is situated far in the plains of the -Guadalete towards Xeres, and would seem rather to have been one of the -cities of the "county of Cadiz." - -Moron is a strong post, for though raised but slightly above the great -plain of Utrera, it commands all the ground in its immediate -neighbourhood; and, standing as it does in a mountain gorge, by which -several roads debouch upon Seville from various parts of the _Serranía_, -it occupies a military position of some consequence. The French guarded -it jealously during the war, and placed the castle in a defensible -state. Since those days its walls have again been dismantled; but the -strength of its position tempted Riego (1820) to try the chances of a -battle with the royal army, commanded by General Josef O'Donnel, ere he -finally abandoned the mountains. - -In vain, however, Riego pointed out to his men the far distant hill of -_Las Cabezas_, where they had first raised the cry of "Constitution, or -death;" their _exaltacion_ had abandoned them, and they in turn -abandoned their exaltation, leaving their strong position after a very -slight resistance. A few days afterwards, at _Fuente Ovejuna_, they were -entirely dispersed. - -The successful general, ready to march either against the insurgents of -the Isla de Leon, or upon the capital, wrote to the king, announcing -that the army of Riego was no more, and requesting to know his commands: -but "_eheu! quam brevibus pereunt ingentia causis!_" a few weeks after -this letter was penned, the victor was a prisoner at Ceuta, and the -vanquished general (without doing any thing in the meanwhile to retrieve -his character) had become the hero of hymns and ballads! The imbecile -Ferdinand, fearful lest, by further delay in accepting the Constitution -he should lose his crown, had despatched orders to those generals who -remained faithful to him, to give up their respective commands, just as -the tide of affairs seemed to be turning in favour of a continuance of -his despotic reign. - -The dispersion of the constitutional army proved two things, however; -the first, that Riego was no general; the second, that he and his party -had deceived themselves as to the political feeling of the inhabitants -of the province. In the course of his rambling operations, Algeciras and -Malaga were the only places where Riego was at all well received. In -vain he tried to maintain himself in the latter city; driven out of it -at the point of the bayonet, he attempted to regain Cadiz, the -head-quarters of the revolt; but, closely pressed by the royal army on -his retreat through the Serranía, was obliged, as I have stated, to -receive battle at Moron, where the disorganization of his force was -completed. - -Moron contains a population of 8,000 souls, and is a well built town, -with wide streets, and good shops. There is a mountain road from hence -to Grazalema (seven leagues) by way of Zahara. The road from Moron to -Ronda passes by Olbera. The distance between the two places is -thirty-one miles. The country, immediately on leaving Moron, becomes -rough and desolate, and the road, (a mere mule-track,) traverses a -succession of strongly marked ridges, which, though not themselves very -elevated, are bounded on all sides by bare and rocky mountains. The -numerous streams which cross the stony pathway all flow to the south, -uniting their waters with the _Salado de Moron_. On penetrating further -into the recesses of the _Serranía_, the valleys become wider, and are -thickly wooded, and the luxuriant growth of the unpruned trees, the -absence of houses, bridges, and all the other signs of the hand of man, -offer a picture of uncultivated nature that could hardly be surpassed -even in the interior of New Zealand. - -At nine miles from Moron is situated the solitary venta of _Zaframagon_, -and, a mile further on, descending by a beautifully wooded ravine, we -reached an isolated rocky mound, under the scarped side of which, -embosomed in groves of orange and pomegranate trees, stands a -picturesque water-mill. From hence to Olbera is seven miles. The country -is of the same wild description as in the preceding portion of the -route, but gradually rises and becomes more bare of trees on drawing -near the little crag-built town. An execrable pavé, which appears to -have remained intact since the days of the Romans, winds for the last -two miles under the chain of hills over whose narrow summit the houses -of Olbera are spread, rising one above another towards an old castle -perched on the pinnacle of a rocky cone. - -By some Spanish antiquaries, Olbera has been supposed to be the _Ilipa_ -mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, as being on the _second_ route laid -down between Cadiz and Cordoba, passing by Antequera. This route, by the -way, is not a less strange one to lay down between the two cities, than -a post road from London to Dover _by way of Brighton_ would be -considered by us; but the fancy of winding it through the least -practicable part of the mountains of Ronda, from Seville (if, as some -imagine, it first went to that city) to Antequera, is even yet more -strange, since a nearly level tract of country extends between those two -cities in a more direct line. - -Considering it, however, merely as a military way, made by the Romans to -connect the principal cities of the province, and serving in case of -need as a communication between Cadiz and Cordoba, _avoiding Seville_; a -much more probable line may be laid down, on which the distances will be -found to agree infinitely better.[58] - -Olbera is a wretched place, containing some 3,000 or 4,000 of the rudest -looking, and, if report speak true, of the least scrupulous, inhabitants -of the Serranía. Their lawless character has already been alluded to, -and, in Rocca's Memoirs, a most interesting account is given of their -reception of him, when, with a party of dragoons, he was on the march -from Moron to Ronda. - -His description of the rickety old town-house, wherein he saved his life -from an infuriated mob by making a fat priest serve as a shield, is most -correctly given, and, in the present dark, suspicious-looking, -cloak-enveloped inhabitants, one may readily picture to one's-self the -descendants of the men who skinned a dead ass, and gave it to the French -troopers for beef; ever after jeering them by asking "_Quien come carne -de burra en Olbera?_ Who eats asses'-flesh at Olbera?" - - Carula (Puebla de Santa Maria) 24 - Ilipa (Grazalema) 18 - Ostippo[59] (La Torre de Alfaquime) 14 - Barba (Almargen) 20 - Anticaria (Antequera) 24 - Angellas 23 - Ipagro 20 - Ulia 10 - Cordoba 18 - ---- - Total 294[60] - ---- - -The view from the old castle is very commanding; the outline of the -amphitheatre of mountains is bold and varied, and the valleys between -the different masses are richly wooded. To the south may be seen the -rocky little fortress of Zahara, sheltered by the huge _Sierra del -Pinar_; and only about two miles distant from Olbera to the north, is -the old castle of Pruna, similarly situated on a conical hill that -stands detached from a lofty impending mountain. - -Olbera is fourteen miles from Ronda. At the distance of rather more than -a mile, a large convent, _N. S. de los Remedios_, stands on the right of -the road, and a little way beyond this, the road descends by a narrow -ravine towards _La Torre de Alfaquime_, and, after winding round the -foot of the cone whereon that little town is perched, reaches and -crosses the Guadalete. This point is about four miles from Olbera. The -stream issues from a dark ravine in the mountains that rise up on the -left of the road, and serves to irrigate a fertile valley, and turn -several mills that here present themselves. - -A road to Setenil is conducted through the narrow gorge whence the -little river issues, but that to Ronda, ascending for three quarters of -an hour, reaches the summit of a lofty mountain on whose eastern -acclivity are strewed the extensive ruins of Acinippo. - -The view is remarkably fine; to the westward, extending as far as -Cadiz, and in the opposite direction looking down upon a wide, smiling -valley, watered by the numerous sources of the Guadalete, and upon the -little castellated town of Setenil, perched on the rocky bank of the -principal branch of that river. This place was very celebrated in the -days of the Moslems, having resisted every attack of the Christians,[61] -until the persevering "_Reyes Catolicos_" brought artillery to bear upon -its defences. - -The road to Ronda descends for two miles, and then keeps for about the -same distance along the banks of the Guadalete, crossing and recrossing -it several times. The surrounding country is one vast corn-field. -Leaving, at length, this rich vale, the road ascends a short but steep -ridge, whence the first view is obtained of the yet more lovely basin of -Ronda, which, clothed with orchards and olive grounds, and surrounded on -all sides by splendid mountains, is justly called the pride of the -Serranía. - -A good stone bridge affords a passage across the _Rio Verde_, or of -Arriate, about a mile above its junction with the Guadiaro; and the road -falls in with that from Grazalema on reaching the top of the hill -whereon the town stands. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - RONDA TO GAUCIN--ROAD TO CASARES--FINE SCENERY--CASARES--DIFFICULTY - IN PROCURING LODGINGS--FINALLY OVERCOME--THE CURA'S HOUSE--VIEW OF - THE TOWN FROM THE RUINS OF THE CASTLE--ITS GREAT STRENGTH--ANCIENT - NAME--IDEAS OF THE SPANIARDS REGARDING PROTESTANTS--SCRAMBLE TO THE - SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA CRISTELLINA--SPLENDID VIEW--JEALOUSY OF THE - NATIVES IN THE MATTER OF SKETCHING--THE CURA AND HIS - BAROMETER--DEPARTURE FOR THE BATHS OF MANILBA--ROMANTIC - SCENERY--ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITERS--THE MASTER OF THE - CEREMONIES--ROADS TO SAN ROQUE AND GIBRALTAR--RIVER GUADIARO AND - VENTA. - - -Ronda and the road from thence to Gaucin have been already fully -described; I will, therefore, pass on, without saying more of either -than that, if the road be one of the _worst_, the scenery along it -equals any to be met with in the south of Spain. The road was formerly -practicable for carriages throughout, but it is now purposely suffered -to go to decay, lest it should furnish Gibraltar with greater facilities -than that great commercial mart already possesses, for destroying the -manufactures of Spain--such, at least, is the excuse offered for the -present wretched state of the road. - -From the rock-built castle of Gaucin we will descend--by what, though -called a road, is little more than a rude flight of steps practised in -the side of the mountain--to the deep valley of the Genal, and, crossing -the pebbly bed of the stream, take a path which, winding through a dense -forest of cork and ilex, is directed round the northern side of the -peaked mountain of _Cristellina_, to a pass between it and the more -distant and wide-spreading _Sierra Bermeja_. - -The scenery, as one advances up the steep acclivity, is remarkably fine. -I do not recollect having any where seen finer woods; and the occasional -glimpses of the glassy Genal, winding in the dark valley below; the -numerous shining little villages that deck its green banks; the -outstretched town of Gaucin and ruined battlements of its impending -castle covering the ridge on the opposite side, and backed by the -distant mountains of Ubrique, Grazalema, &c., furnish all the requisites -for a perfect picture. - -Soon after gaining the summit of the wooded chain, the road branches in -two, that on the left hand proceeding to Estepona, the other to Casares. -Taking the latter, we emerged from the forest in about a quarter of an -hour, and found ourselves at the head of a deep and confined valley, -which, overhung by the scarped peaks of Cristellina on one side, is -bounded on the other by a narrow ridge that, stretching several miles -to the south, terminates in a high conical knoll crowned by the castle -of Casares. - -The road, which is very good, keeps under the crest of the left-hand -ridge, descending for two miles, and very gradually, towards the town. -The view on approaching Casares is remarkably fine, embracing, besides -the picturesque old fortress, an extensive prospect over the apparently -champaign country beyond, which (marked, nevertheless, with many a -wooded dell and rugged promontory,) spreads in all directions towards -the Mediterranean; the dark, cloud-capped rock of Gibraltar rising -proudly from the shining surface of the narrow sea, and overtopping all -the intervening ridges. - -Before reaching Casares, the mountain, along the side of which the road -is conducted, falls suddenly several hundred feet, and a narrow ledge -connects it with the conical mound more to the south, whereon the castle -is perched. The town occupies the summit of this connecting link--which -in one part is so narrow as to afford little more than the space -sufficient for one street--but extends, also, some way round the bases -and up the rude sides of the two impending heights, thus assuming the -shape of an hour-glass. - -Having reached the _Plaza_,--and a tolerably spacious one it is -considering the little ground the town has to spare for -embellishments,--we looked about for the usual signs of a _venta_, but, -failing in discovering any, applied to the bystanders for information, -who, pointing to a wretched hovel, on the wall of which was painted a -shield, bearing, in heraldic language, gules, a bottle sable, told us it -was the only _Ventorillo_[62] in the town. - -Now, though it is a common saying that "good wine needs no bush," we had -yet to learn that dirty floors need no broom; and, unwilling to be the -first to gain experience in the matter, we determined, after a minute -examination of the house, to present ourselves to the _Alcalde_, and, in -virtue of our passports, ask his "aid and assistance" in procuring -better quarters. - -The unusual sight of a party of strange travellers had brought that -important personage himself into the market-place, who, collecting round -him the principal householders of the town, forthwith laid our -distressing case before them, and, in his turn, asked for aid and -assistance in the shape of advice. - -Our papers were accordingly handed round the standing council, and, -having been minutely inspected, turned upside down, the lion and unicorn -duly admired, the great seal of the Governor of Gibraltar examined with -eyes of astonishment, and the question asked "_Son Ingleses?_"[63] -(which was excusable, considering the absurdity of giving passports in -_French_ to English travellers in _Spain_) a shrug of the shoulders -seemed all that the _Alcalde_ was likely to get in the way of advice, or -we in the lieu of board and lodging. - -Guessing at last, by the oft-repeated question concerning our -nationality, "_De que pie cojeaba el negocio_";[64] we took occasion to -signify to the conclave, that a few dollars would most willingly be paid -for any inconvenience the putting us up for the night might occasion. -Our prospects immediately brightened; each had now "_una salita_," that -he could very well spare for a night or so ... "we had our own _mantas_, -so that we should require but mattresses to lie down upon--and as for -stabling, that there was no loss for"--in fact, the only difficulty -appeared to be, how the Alcalde should avoid giving offence to a dozen, -by selecting _one_ to confer the favour of our company upon. - -He saw the delicacy of his position, and hesitated--"he himself, indeed, -had a spare room, but ..." here a portly personage, clothed in a black -silk cassock, and sheltered by an ample shovel hat, stepped forward to -relieve the embarrassed functionary from his dilemma; and giving him a -nod, and us a beckon, drew his _toga_ up behind, and walked off at a -brisk pace towards the castle hill. - -The claims of _El Señor Cura_--for such our conductor proved to be--no -one presumed to dispute; so making our bow to the _Alcalde_, who assured -us that - - _Quien a buen arbol se arrima_ - _buena sombra le cobija_,[65] - -we followed the footsteps of the worthy member of the Church -Hospitaliar, without further colloquy. - -Our conductor stopped not, and spoke not, until we had reached the very -top of the town, and then, leading our horses into a commodious stable, -he ushered us into his own abode; wherein he assured us, if the -accommodation he could offer was suitable, "we had but to _mandar_." It -consisted of a large _sala_ and an _alcoba_, or recess, for a bed; the -latter scrupulously clean, the former lofty and airy. We, therefore, -expressed our entire satisfaction, requesting only that a couple of -mattresses might be spread upon the floor; a friend, who had joined us -at Gaucin, rendering this increase of accommodation necessary. - -Having given instructions to that effect, Don Francisco Labato--for such -our host informed us were his _nombre y appellido_,[66] not omitting to -add, that he was a _clerigo beneficiado_[67]--proposed to accompany us, -to cast an ojeada[68] upon the curious old town, from the ruined -battlements of its ancient fortress; observing that there was yet -abundance of time to do so, "ere Phoebus took his evening plunge into -the western ocean." - -We gladly accepted the proffered ciceroneship of our classical host, -and, mounting the rugged pathway up the isolated crag, in a few minutes -reached the plateau at its summit. It would be hardly possible to select -a less convenient site for a town than that occupied by Casares. Pent in -to the north and south between impracticable crags, and bounded on the -other two sides by deep ravines; it can, in fact, be reached only, -either by describing a wide circuit to gain the mountains, rising at its -back; or, by ascending a rough winding path, practised in the side of -the castle hill. - -The principal part of the town is clustered round the base of the old -fortress, the houses rising one above another in steps, as it were, and -occupying no more of the valuable space than is necessary to give them a -secure foundation. The streets, which are barely wide enough to allow a -paniered donkey to pass freely, are formed out of the live rock, and, -here and there, are cut in wide steps, to render the ascent less -difficult and dangerous. These flat slabs of native limestone, when -heated by a summer sun, though passable enough by unshod animals, afford -but a precarious footing to a horse's iron-bound hoofs. - -The castle can only be approached through the town, and although its -walls have long been in ruins, yet, so strong are its natural defences, -that the muzzles of a few rusty old guns, propped up by stones, and -protruded from the prostrate parapets, were sufficient to deter the -French from making any attempt upon the place during the war of -independence:--such, at least, is the version of the inhabitants. - -That Casares was a Roman town is almost proved by the name it yet bears; -but the matter is placed beyond a doubt on examining the old foundations -of the castle, which are clearly of a date anterior to the occupation of -Spain by the Saracens. - -The name it anciently bore strikes me as being equally obvious, viz., -_Cæsaris Salutariensis_; so designated from the mineral waters in its -neighbourhood, which, though _now_ known by the name of the modern town -of Manilba, are within the _termino_ of Casares. For, not only were the -valuable properties of these springs well known to the Romans, but, -according to the common belief in the country, they performed a -wonderful cure on one of the emperors--Trajan, I think. - -_Cæsaris Salutariensis_ is mentioned by Pliny, amongst the Latin towns -of the _conventus gaditanus_; the limits of which country may, at first -sight, appear to be somewhat stretched to include Casares; but -Barbesula, which stood at the mouth of the river Guadiaro, at an equal -distance from Cadiz, (as is clearly proved by inscriptions found there,) -is also mentioned by that excellent authority as one of the stipendiary -towns of the same county; and the order in which they are enumerated, -viz., those first which were nearest to the capital, tends to confirm my -supposition. - -On our return from the old castle, which commands a splendid view, we -were not displeased to find that our host was no despiser of the good -things of this world, much as he gave us to understand that all his -thoughts were directed towards the never-ending joys of that which is to -come. Every thing bespoke a well-conducted _ménage_; the house, besides -being clean and tastily decorated with flowers, was provided with some -solid comforts. The _Cura's niece_--his housekeeper, butler, and -factotum--was pretty, as well as intelligent and obliging. His _cuisine_ -was tolerably free from garlic and grease, his wine from aniseed. Our -horses were up to their knees in fresh straw; and three clean beds were -prepared for ourselves. - -Our host excused himself from partaking of our meal, he having already -dined, and, whilst we were doing justice to his good catering, paced up -and down the room pretending to read, but in reality watching our -movements, and, as it at first struck us, looking after his silver -spoons: but divers testy hints given to his bright-eyed niece that her -constant attendance upon us was unnecessary, soon made it evident that -_she_ was the object of his solicitude; as, judging from the occasional -direction of our eyes, he rightly conjectured what was the subject of -our conversation. Anon, however, he would approach the table, thrust the -volume of Homilies under his left arm, and, taking a pinch of snuff, -(which he said was "_bueno para el estudio_"[69]) ask our way of -thinking on various subjects, political and theological, always -prefacing his interrogatories by some observation, either on his passion -for study, the cosmopolitan bent of his mind, or the superiority his -learning gave him over the vulgar prejudices of the age. And, at length, -when the table was cleared, the niece gone, and he had elicited from us -that we were all three _English_, he observed, without further -circumlocution, "_Pues Señores_, you are not members of the _Santa -Iglesia, Catolica Romana_?" - -"No," we replied, "_Catolica_ but not _Romana_." - -"That is to say, you are heretical Christians." - -"That is to say, we differ with you as regards the corporeal nature of -the elements partaken of in the Eucharist; we deny the efficacy of -masses; the power of granting indulgences; and the necessity for -auricular confession:--and so far certainly we are heretics in the eyes -of the church of Rome." - -The worthy _Cura_--much as he had studied--was by no means aware that -our pretensions to Catholicism were so great as, on continuing the -controversy, he discovered them to be.[70] He made a stout stand, -however, for the absolute necessity of auricular confession; maintaining -that we, by dispensing with it, deprived the poor and ignorant of a -friend, a counsellor, and an intercessor;--stript our church of the -power of reclaiming sinners, and checking growing heresies;--and our -government of the means of anticipating the mischievous projects of -designing men. - -It was in vain we urged to our host that, in our favoured country, -education had done away with the necessity for strengthening the hands -of government by such means; that the poor were provided for by law; and -that the clergy were ever ready to counsel and assist those who stood in -need of spiritual consolation. But, before leaving us for the night, the -_Padre_ admitted that _we_ were certainly Christians, and that many of -the mysteries and practices of the Church of Rome were merely preserved -to enable the clergy to maintain their influence over the people;--an -influence which we deemed quite necessary for the well-being of the -state. - -Rising betimes on the following morning, we set off on foot to clamber -to the lofty peak of the _Sierra Cristellina_; and regular climbing it -was, for all traces of a footpath were soon lost, and we then had to -mount the precipitous face of the cone in the best way we could. The -magnificence of the view from the summit amply repaid us for the fatigue -and loss of shoe-leather we had to bear with; for, though scarcely 2000 -feet above the level of the sea, the peak stands so completely detached -from all other mountains, that it affords a bird's eye view which could -be surpassed only by that from a balloon. The entire face of the -country was spread out like a map before us. To the north, penned in on -all sides by savage mountains, lay the wide, forest-covered valley of -the Genal, its deeply furrowed sides affording secure though but scanty -lodgment to the numerous little fastnesses scattered over them by the -persecuted _Mudejares_, when expelled from the more fertile plains of -the Guadalquivír and Guadalete; and on which castellated crags the -swarthy descendants of these "mediatised" Moors still continue to reside -and bid defiance to civilization. - -These little strongholds stand for the most part on the summit of rocky -knolls that jut into the dark valley; and round the base of each a small -extent of the forest has in most cases been cleared, serving, in times -past, to improve its means of defence, and, at the present day, to admit -the sun to shine upon the vineyards, in the cultivation of which the -rude inhabitants find employment, when, obliged for a time to lay aside -the smuggler's blunderbuss, they take to the axe and pruning-knife. -Behind, serving as a kind of citadel to these numerous outworks, rises -the huge _Sierra Bermeja_, which afforded a last refuge to the -persecuted Moslems; and at its very foot, about five miles up the valley -of the Genal, are the ruins of _Benastepar_; the birth-place of the -Moorish hero, _El Feri_, whose courage and address so long baffled the -exterminating projects of the Spaniards. - -Turning now round to the south, a totally different, and yet more -magnificent, view meets the eye. Gibraltar,--its lovely bay,--the -African mountains, rising range above range,--and the distant Atlantic, -successively present themselves: whilst, from the height at which we are -raised above the intermediate country, the courses of the different -rivers, that issue from the gorges of the sierras at our back, may be -distinctly followed through all their windings to the Mediterranean, the -features of the intervening ground appearing to be so slightly marked as -to lead to the supposition that the country below must be perfectly -accessible;--but, as one of our party drily observed, those who, like -himself, had followed red-legged partridges across it could tell a -different story. - -We returned to Casares by descending the eastern side of the mountain, -which is planted with vines to within a short distance of the summit. In -fact, wherever a little earth can be scraped together, a root is -inserted. The wine made from the grapes grown on this bank is considered -the best of Casares; it is not unlike Cassis--small, but highly -flavoured. The town, looked down upon in this direction, has a singular -appearance, seeming to stand on a high cliff overhanging the -Mediterranean shore, though, in reality, it is six or seven miles from -it. - -We amused ourselves during the rest of the afternoon in taking sketches -of the town from various points in the neighbourhood, and excited the -wrath of some passers-by to a furious degree. They swore we were -_mapeando el pueblo_,[71] and that they would have us arrested; but we -were strong in our innocence, and turned a deaf ear to their menaces. It -is, however, a practice that is often attended with annoying -consequences; for I have known several instances of English officers -having been taken before the military authorities for merely sketching a -picturesque barn or cork tree--so great is the national jealousy. - -At our evening meal, our host, as on the former occasion walked -book-in-hand up and down the room, but was evidently less watchful of -his pretty niece and silver spoons. His attention, indeed, appeared to -be entirely given to the state of the mercury in an old barometer, -which, appended to the wall at the further end of the room, he consulted -at every turn, putting divers weatherwise questions to us as he did so. -And at last, he asked in plain language, whether our church ever put up -prayers for rain, and if they ever brought it. - -The occasion of all this _pumping_ we found to be, that the country in -the neighbourhood having long been suffering from drought, the -husbandmen, apprehensive of the consequences, had for some days past -been urging him to pray for rain, but the state of the barometer had not -hitherto, he said, warranted his doing so, and he had, therefore, put -them off, on various pretences. "Yesterday, however," he observed, -"seeing that the mercury was falling, I gave notice that I should make -intercession for them; and, I think, judging from present appearances, -that my prayers are likely to be as effectual as those of any bishop -could possibly be." And off he started to church, giving us, at parting, -a very significant, though somewhat heterodoxical grin. - -Nevertheless, not a drop of rain fell that night; the barometer was at -fault; and the only clouds visible in the morning were those gathered on -the brow of the _Cura_. They dispersed, however, like mist under the -sun's rays; when, bidding him farewell, and thanking him for his -hospitable entertainment, we slipped a _doublon de à ocho_ into his -hand; which, pocketing without the slightest hesitation, he assured us, -with imperturbable gravity, should be applied to the services of the -_church_--"as, doubtless, we intended." - -Threading once more the rudely _graduated_ streets of the town, we took -the stony pathway, before noticed, which winds down under the eastern -side of the castle hill, and in rather more than half an hour were again -beyond the limits of the Serranía, and in a country of corn and pasture. - -At the foot of the mountain two roads present themselves, one proceeding -straight across the country to San Roque and Gibraltar (nineteen and -twenty-five miles), the other seeking more directly the Mediterranean -shore, and visiting on its way the sulphur-baths and little town of -Manilba. - -The _Cura_ had spoken in such terms of commendation of the _Hedionda_ -(fetid spring)--claiming it jealously as the property of Casares--that -we were tempted to lengthen our journey by a few miles to pay it a -visit. - -The road to it follows the course of the little stream that flows in the -valley between the Cristellina mountain and Casares, which, escaping by -a narrow rocky gorge immediately below the town, winds round the foot of -the castle crag, and takes an easterly direction to the Mediterranean. -The country at first is open, and the stream flows through a smiling -valley, without encountering any obstacle; but, at about two miles from -Casares, a dark and narrow defile presents itself, which, the winding -rivulet having in vain sought to avoid, finally precipitates itself -into, and is lost sight of, under an entangled canopy of arbutus, -lauristinus, clematis, and various creepers. So narrow and overshadowed -is the chasm, so high and precipitous are its bank--themselves overgrown -with coppice and forest-trees, wherever the crumbling rocks have allowed -their roots to spread--that even the sunbeams have difficulty in -reaching the foaming stream, as it hurries over its rough and tortuous -bed; and the pathway, following the various windings of the narrow -gorge,--now keeping along the shady bank of the rivulet, now climbing, -by rudely carved zig-zags, some little way up the precipitous sides of -the fissure,--is barely of a width to admit of the passage of a loaded -mule. - -So wildly beautiful is the scenery, so free from artificial -embellishments,--for the low moss-grown water-mills which are scattered -along the course of the stream, and here and there a rustic bridge, owe -their beauty rather to nature than art--so _romantic_, in fine, is the -spot, that, if in the vicinity of a fashionable _baden_, it could not -fail of being a little fortune to all the ragged donkey-drivers within a -circuit of many leagues, and of proving a mine of wealth to the -surveyors of _tables d'hôtes_, and _restaurans_, and keepers of billiard -and faro tables. - -The amusements of the frequenters of the humble _Hedionda_ are, however, -very different, and the sequestered dell is visited only by chanting -muleteers, driving their files of laded animals to or from the mills; -or, perchance, by some sulphurated old lady, who, ensconced in a -pillowed _jamuga_,[72] is bending her way, with renovated health, -towards Casares or Ximena: to which places the narrow fissure offers the -nearest road from the baths. - -After proceeding about a mile down the dark ravine, its banks, crumbling -down in rude blocks, recede from each other, and a huge barren sierra is -discovered rising steeply along the southern bank of the stream, to -which the road now crosses. It greatly excited our surprise how this -lofty and strongly marked ridge could have escaped our observation from -Casares, for it had seemed to us, that on descending from thence we -should leave the mountains altogether behind us. - -From the base of this barren ridge issues the _Hedionda_; still, -however, about a mile from us; and ere reaching it, the hills retiring -for a time yet more from the stream, leave a flat space of some extent, -and in form resembling an amphitheatre, which is planted with all kinds -of fruit-trees, and dotted with vine-clung cottages. This spot is called -_La Huerta_--the orchard; and these comfortless looking little -hovels--pleasing nevertheless to the eye--we eventually learnt are the -lodging-houses of the most aristocratic visiters of the baths. - -Traversing the fruitful little dell, and mounting a low rocky ledge that -completes its enclosure to the east, leaving only a narrow passage for -the rivulet, we found ourselves close to the baths; our vicinity to -which, however, the offensive smell of the spring (prevailing even over -the strong perfume of the orange blossoms) had already duly apprized us -of. - -The baths are situated almost in the bed of the pure mountain stream, -whose course we had been following from Casares; and a short distance -beyond, and at a slight elevation above them, stands a neat and compact -little village. - -The season being at its height, we found the place so crowded with -visiters, that it would have been impossible to procure a night's -lodging, had such been our wish. All we required, however, was -information concerning the place; for which purpose we repaired to the -_Fonda_,--a kind of booth, such as is knocked up at fairs in England for -the sale of gin, "and other cordials,"--and ordered such refreshment as -it afforded, asking the _Moza_[73] if she could tell us whether any of -the houses were vacant, &c. - -She replied, that the Fonda was provided with every thing necessary for -travellers of distinction, being established on the footing of the -hotels "_de mas fama_" of Malaga and San Roque; and that _El Señor -Juan_, the "_intendente_"[74] of the place,--who, doubtless, on hearing -of our arrival, would forthwith pay his respects to us,--could furnish -every sort of information respecting it. - -Oh! a master of the ceremonies, with his book, thought we--well, this -will be amusing: some urbane "captain," no doubt, all smiles to all -persons!--and whilst we were yet picturing to ourselves what this -Spanish Beau Nash could possibly be like, a tall ungainly personage, -with a considerable halt in his gait, a fund of humour in his long -leathern countenance, and a paper cigar screwed up in the dexter corner -of his mouth, presented himself, and placed his services at our -disposition. - -He held a huge pitcher of the fragrant water in one hand, which, when he -was in motion, gave him a "lurch to starboard;" a stout staff in the -other, by means of which he established an equilibrium when at rest. His -body was coatless, his neck cravatless, his shirt sleeves were rolled up -to the elbow, leaving his brown sinewy arms bare; his trowsers hung in -braceless negligence about his hips; his large bare feet were thrust -into a pair of capacious shoes; and his head was covered with a -high-crowned, narrow-brimmed, Frenchified hat, which had evidently -browned under the heat of many summers, and bent to the storms of -intervening winters. Round his neck hung a stout silver chain (which the -fumes of the sulphur-spring had turned as black as Berlin iron), whence -was suspended a ponderous master-key. - -"He must be the prison-keeper," said we, "carrying the daily allowance -of water to the incarcerated malefactors!" - -"This is _Señor Juan, el intendente_," said our smirking attendant, -placing a bottle of wine upon the table before us. - -"Oh! this is _Señor Juan_, the master of the ceremonies!--Then pray be -seated, _Señor Juan_; and bring another wine-glass, _Mariquita_." - -Our requests were instantly complied with; and in half an hour we had -disengaged from the numberless "_por supuestos, conques_," and "_pues_," -with which Señor Juan interlarded his conversation, and from the smoky -exhalations in which he enveloped it, all the information we required -concerning the baths, though by no means so full an account of them as -the gossip-loving _Tio_ seemed disposed to give us. So pleased were we, -however, with his description of the amusements of the place, and of the -valuable properties of its waters, that, assuring him we should take an -early opportunity of renewing his acquaintance, and commending him to -the care of _San Juan Nepomaceno_, we arose, and took our departure. - -I was not long in performing my promise. Indeed, I became an annual -visiter to the baths for a few days during the shooting season; and will -devote the following chapter to a more particular description of the -_Hedionda_, and the manner of life at a Spanish watering-place. - -The mule-track from the baths to Gibraltar--for during the first few -miles it is little else--keeps down the valley for some little distance, -and then, ascending a steep hill, joins at its summit a road leading to -Casares from Manilba; which latter little town is seen about -three-quarters of a mile off, on the left. This road to Casares turns -the _sierra_ overhanging the baths on its western side, where it meets -with some flat, nearly table-land; but our route to Gibraltar, after -keeping along it a few hundred yards, strikes off to the left, and, -traversing a wild and very broken country, in something more than three -miles forms its junction with the road from the town of Manilba to San -Roque and Gibraltar, which again, half a mile further on, falls into the -road from Malaga to those two places. This spot is distant five miles -from the baths, and rather more than two from the river Guadiaro. - -Near some farm-houses on the left bank of this river, and about a mile -from its mouth, are ruins of the Roman town of _Barbesula_. Some -monuments and inscriptions found here, many years since, were carried to -Gibraltar. - -The bed of the Guadiaro is wide but shallow, and offers two fords, which -are practicable at most seasons. There is a ferry-boat kept, however, at -the upper point of passage, for cases of necessity. A venta is situated -on the right bank of the stream, whereat a bevy of custom-house people -generally assemble to levy contributions on the passers-by. It is a -wretched place of accommodation, though better than another, distant -about a mile further, on the road to Gibraltar, and well known to the -sportsmen of the garrison by the name of _pan y agua_--bread and -water--those being the only supplies that the establishment can be -depended upon to furnish. Its vicinity to some excellent snipe ground -occasions it to be much resorted to in the winter. - -At the first-named venta, two roads present themselves, that on the -right hand proceeding to San Roque, (eight miles,) the other seeking the -coast and keeping along it to Gibraltar--a distance of twelve miles. - -The country traversed by the former is very rugged, but the path is, -nevertheless, unnecessarily circuitous. In various places--but a little -off the road--are vestiges of an old paved route, which, it is by no -means improbable, was the Roman way from _Barbesula_ to _Carteia_, of -which further notice will be taken, when the coast road from Malaga to -Gibraltar is described. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - THE BATHS OF MANILBA--A SPECIMEN OF FABULOUS HISTORY--PROPERTIES OF - THE HEDIONDA--SOCIETY OF THE BATHING VILLAGE--REMARKABLE - MOUNTAIN--AN ENGLISH BOTANIST--TOWN OF MANILBA--AN INTRUSIVE - VISITER--RIDE TO ESTEPONA--RETURN BY WAY OF CASARES. - - -The baths of Manilba lie about seventeen miles N.N.E. of Gibraltar, and -four, inland, from the sea-fort of Savanilla. The town, from which they -take their name, is about midway between them and the coast; and, -standing on a commanding knoll, is a conspicuous object when sailing -along the Mediterranean shore. - -The virtues of the sulphureous spring have long been known; but it is -only within the last few years that the increasing reputation of the -medicated source led a company of speculators to build the village which -now stands in its vicinity; the scattered cottages of the _Huerta_ -having been found quite incapable of lodging the vast crowd of -valetudinarians, annually drawn to the spot. The same parties have yet -more recently erected a chapel, and also the _Fonda_, mentioned in the -preceding chapter. - -The little village is built with the regularity of even Wiesbaden -itself, but nothing can well be more different in other respects than it -is from that, or any other watering-place, which I have ever visited. It -consists of five or six parallel stacks of houses, forming streets which -open at one end upon the bank overhanging the now sulphurated stream, -that flows down from Casares; and which abut, at the other, against the -side of the lofty mountain whence the medicated spring issues. These -streets are covered in with trellis-work, over which vines are trained, -rendering them cool, as well as agreeable to the sight. The houses are -all built on a uniform plan, namely, they have no upper story, and -contain but _one room each_; which room is furnished with the usual -Spanish kitchen-range--that is, with three or four little bricked stoves -built into a kind of dresser. By this arrangement, every room is, of -itself, capable of forming a _complete establishment_; and in most -cases, indeed, it does serve the triple purposes of a kitchen, a -refectory, and a dormitory, to its frugal inmates. When a family is -large, however, an entire lareet must be hired for its accommodation. - -The principal speculator in the joint-stock village is a gentleman of -Estepona; and _El Señor Juan_--or _Tio Juan_, as he is familiarly -called by those admitted to his intimacy--is a poor relative, who, for -the slight perquisites of office, readily undertook the charge of the -infant establishment. - -The choice of the _Tio_ was, in every respect, a judicious one; for, -having drunk himself off the crutches on which he hobbled down to the -baths, he has become a kind of walking advertisement of the efficacy of -the waters. He is not, however, like the unsightly fellows who -perambulate the streets of London with placards, a silent one; for I -know of no man more thoroughly versed in the art of _viva voce_ puffing -than _Tio Juan_; and then he has stored his memory with such a fund of -useful watering-place information, that he is a perfect guide to the -_Hedionda_ and its environs. - -The _Tio_ and I soon became wonderful cronies; I derived great amusement -from his _cuentas_--he, much gratification from my nightly whisky-toddy. -In fact, the two dovetailed into each other in a most remarkable manner; -for, when once the _Tio_ had attached one of his long stories to a -(_pint_) bottle of "poteen," there was no possibility of separating -them--they drew cork and breath together, and together only they came to -a conclusion. - -He knew every body that visited the baths, and every thing about them; -could point out those who came for health, and those who were allured -by dissipation; could tell which ladies and gentlemen were looking out -for matrimony, which for intrigue; whether the buxom widow had fruitful -vineyards and olive grounds with her weeds; whether the young ladies had -shining _onzas_ to recommend them as well as sparkling eyes. - -Then the Tio knew where every medicinal herb grew that was suited to any -given case--could point out the haunt of every covey of red-legged -partridges in the vicinity--could tell to an hour when a flight of quail -would cross from the parched shores of Africa--when the matchless -_becafigos_ would alight upon the neighbouring fig-trees--and, as the -season advanced, he would mark the time to a nicety when the first -annual visit of the woodcocks might be looked for to the wooded glens -beyond the baths. - -As the historian of the wonder-working spring, the _Tio_ was not less -valuable; though, it must be confessed, the terms in which he conveyed -the idea of its vast antiquity were any thing but prepossessing; viz., -"_Pues! saben ustedes, que esa hedionda es mas vieja que la sarna._" -"Know then, gentlemen, that this fetid spring is older than the itch." -In other respects, however, the information he had collected, besides -being most rare, possessed a freshness that was truly delightful; -"_Siglos hay_,[75]" he would continue, "the spring was _endemoniado_, -for _Carlomagno_, or some other great hero of the most remote antiquity, -drove an evil spirit into the mountain, which said spirit, to be -revenged on mankind, poisoned the source whence the stream flows. Saint -James, however, arriving in the country soon after--having taken Spain -under his especial protection--determined to expel this imp of Satan. -This was done accordingly, and the devil went over into Barbary, (where -he eventually stirred up the Moors against the adopted children of -_Santiago_--the story of _Don Rodrigo_ and _La Cava_ being all a fable,) -leaving nothing but his sulphur behind." - -"The good saint, to perpetuate the fame of the miracle he had wrought, -next determined to endue the spring with extraordinary curative -properties; not depriving it, however, of the unusually bad smell left -by the devil, that the marvellous work he was about to perform might be -the more apparent to future generations." - -"Some years after this, the baths were visited by '_muchos emperadores -de Roma_;'[76] amongst others, Trajan and Hercules; as also by the -famous Roland; and, '_segun dicen_,' by _un Ingles, llamado Malbrù, y -otra gente muy principal_."[77] "In those days," continued the Tio, -"there were _palathios, posa'a, y to'o_,[78] but then came the Moors -(with the devil in their train), and laid every thing waste. They had -not the power, however, to deprive the stream of its virtues; and great -they are, and most justly celebrated _por todo la España_."[79] - -In detailing the wonderful properties of the spring committed to his -charge, _Tio Juan_ would enter with all the minuteness of an Herodotus. -By his account, there was no ailment to which suffering humanity is -exposed that it would not reach. It was a "universal medicine"--a -Hygeian fountain that bestowed perpetual youth--a Styx that rendered -mankind invulnerable. It gave strength to the weak, and ease to those -who were in pain--rendered the barren fruitful, and the splenetic, -good-humoured--made the fat, lean, and the lean, fat. By it the good -liver was freed from gout, and the bad liver from bile. The sores of the -leper were dried up, and the lungs of the asthmatic inflated--it made -the maimed whole, and patched up the broken-hearted. He had known many -instances of its curing consumption, and had seen it act like a charm in -cases of tympany. - -"In fact," said old Juan--"_para todo tiene remedio_.--_Mir' -usted_[80]--I, who on my arrival here could not put a foot to the -ground, now, as you may perceive, walk about like a _Jovencito_;[81] -and, under proper directions, I have no doubt it would make a man live -for ever."[82] - -Nor did the long list of the water's valuable qualities end here. It was -good for all the common purposes of life--for stewing and for -boiling--for washing and for shaving;--and, to wind up all, as we go on -sinning, until, by constant repetition, crime no longer pricks one's -conscience, so, the _Tio_ declared, one went on drinking this devilish -water until it positively became palatable. "_Jo no bebo otra_," he -concluded, "_nunca bebo otra--guiso y to'o con ella_."[83] - -Now, though the Tio painted the yellow spring thus _couleur de rose_, -and his account of its wonderful properties, like his system of -chronology, must be received with caution, yet I must needs confess that -the _Hedionda_ seemed to perform extraordinary cures; and, even in my -own case, I ever fancied that after a few days passed at the baths, I -returned to Gibraltar with invigorated powers of digestion. I could by -no means, however, bring myself to submit to the _Tio's_ discipline, and -he was wont to shake his head very seriously, when, returning from a -hard day's shooting, I used to request him to open a bath for me after -sunset--Hercules, himself, he thought could not have stood that. - -That this spring was known to the Romans there can be no manner of -doubt, since the public bath, which still exists, is a work of that -people. The source is very copious, and the water of an equal -temperature throughout the year, viz., 73 to 75 degrees of Fahrenheit's -thermometer. - -On analysis it is found to contain large quantities of hydrogen and -carbonic acid gases, and the following proportions of fixed substances -in fifty pounds of water, viz., six grains of muriate of lime; fifty-six -of sulphate of magnesia; thirty-five of sulphate of lime; ten of -magnesia; and four of silica. The quantity of sulphur it holds in -solution is so great, that the vine-dressers in the neighbourhood make -themselves matches, by merely steeping linen rags in the waste water of -the baths. - -The use of the bath has been found very efficacious in the cure of all -kinds of cutaneous diseases, ulcers, wounds, and elephantiasis; and -taken inwardly, the water is considered by the faculty as extremely -beneficial in cases of gout, asthma, scrofula, rheumatism, dyspepsia, -and, as the Tio said, in fact, in almost every disorder that human -nature is subject to. - -The season for taking the waters is from the beginning of June to the -end of September; and it is astonishing during those four months what -vast crowds of persons, of every grade and calling, are brought -together. Nobles, priests, peasants, and beggars--the gouty, -hypochondriac, lame, and blind--all flock from every part of the kingdom -to the famed Hedionda. It was ever a matter of surprise to me where such -a host can find accommodation. - -The same regimen is prescribed at this as at other watering places; -viz., plenty of the spring, moderate exercise, and abstemious diet; and -in this latter item, at least, the injunctions are as generally -disregarded at Manilba as at the Brunnens of Nassau: that is, -comparatively speaking, for it must be borne in mind that a German's -daily food would support a Spaniard for a week. - -The principal bath is open to the public, and, being very large and -tolerably deep, is by far the pleasantest, when one can be sure of its -entire possession. Those which have been built by the company of -speculators are too small, though convenient in other respects. The -charge for the use of these is moderate enough, viz., one real and a -half each time of bathing; which includes a trifling gratuity to _Tio -Juan_. - -The source from which the drinkers fill their goblets is open to all -comers, and any one may bottle and carry off the precious water _ad -libitum_. A considerable quantity is sent in stone jars to the -neighbouring towns; but Tio Juan maintained--and I believe not without -good reason--that it lost all its properties on the journey "_amen del -mal olor_."[84] - -The situation of the new village would have been more agreeable had it -been built somewhat higher up the side of the sierra, instead of on the -immediate bank of the rivulet, where it is excluded from the fine view -it might otherwise command, and is sheltered from every breath of air. -It is not, however, so sultry as might be expected, considering its -confined situation; for the mountain behind screens it from the sun's -rays at an early hour after noon, and the opposite bank of the ravine, -by sloping down gradually to the stream, and being clothed to the -water's edge with vines, fig, and other fruit-trees, throws back no -reflected heat upon the dwellings. - -The manner of life of the visiters of the _hedionda_ is not less -different from that of the watering places of other countries, than the -place itself is from Cheltenham or Carlsbad. They rise with the sun; -drink their first glass of water at the spring on their way to chapel; a -second glass, in returning from their devotions; and then take a -_paseito_[85] in the _huerta_: but not until after the third dose do -they venture on their usual breakfast of a cup of chocolate. The bath -and the toilette occupy the rest of the morning. Dinner is taken at one -or two o'clock; the _Siesta_ follows, and before sunset another bath, -perhaps. The _Paseo_ comes next--that is quite indispensable--and the -_Tertulia_ concludes the arrangements for the day. - -This, at the baths, is a kind of public assembly held in the open air, -and generally in one of the vine-sheltered streets of the modern -village. A guitar, cards, dancing, and games of forfeit, are the various -resources of the _réunion_; which breaks up at an early hour. - -_Tio Juan_, in his shirt-sleeves and slippers, is a constant attendant -at the _Tertulia_, usually looking on at the sports and pastimes with -becoming gravity, but occasionally taking a hand at _Malilla_,[86] or -joining the noisy circle playing at _El Enfermo_;[87] in which, when the -usual question is asked, "What will _you_ give the sick man?" he -invariably answers, "_El Agua--nada mas que el agua--que no hay cosa mas -sano en el mundo_,"[88] puffing away at his paper cigar all the while -with the most imperturbable gravity, and casting a side glance at me, as -much as to say--"not a word of our nightly _symposium_, if you please." - -The company on these occasions is, as may be supposed, of a very mixed -kind. Let it not be imagined, however, that because "_Señor Juan_" -presents himself with bare elbows, that it is altogether of a secondary -order--far from it--for such is the caprice of fashion, such the love of -change, that even the noblest of the land are ofttimes inmates of the -little inconvenient hovels that I have described; but _Tio Juan_ is a -privileged person--every body consults him, every one makes him his or -her confidant. And so curiously is Spanish society constituted, that -though considered the proudest people in the world, yet, on occasions -like this, Spaniards lay aside the distinction of rank, and mix together -in the most unceremonious manner. Indeed, no people I have ever seen -treat their inferiors with greater respect than the Spanish Nobles. They -enter familiarly into conversation with the servants standing behind -their chair; and, strange as it may appear, this freedom is never taken -advantage of, nor are they less respected, nor worse served in -consequence. - -The custom of kneeling down in common at their places of public worship -may have a tendency to keep up this feeling, warning the rich and -powerful of the earth that, though placed temporarily above the peasant -in the world's estimation, yet that he is their equal in the sight of -the Creator of all; an accountable being like themselves, and deserving -of the treatment of a human being. - -The Spanish nobles certainly find their reward in adopting such a line -of conduct, for they are served with extraordinary fidelity; and the -horrors which were perpetrated _through the instrumentality of -servants_, during the French revolution, is little to be apprehended in -this country; perhaps, indeed, this good understanding between master -and man has hitherto saved Spain from its reign of terror. - -The chapel of the bathing village is generally thronged with penitents; -for people become very devout when they have, or fancy they have, one -foot in the grave. The little edifice may be considered the repository -of the _archives_ of _the Hedionda_, for countless are the legs, arms, -heads, and bodies, moulded in wax, or carved in wood, and telling of -wondrous cures, that have been offered at the shrine of Our Lady of _Los -Remedios_. - -Leaving the good Romanists at their devotions within the crowded chapel, -and _Tio Juan_, with one knee and his pitcher of water on the ground, -and his staff in hand, offering a passing prayer behind the throng -collected outside the open door, we will devote the morning to a -scramble to the summit of the steep mountain that rises at the back of -the baths. - -The _Sierra de Utrera_, by which name this rugged ridge is -distinguished, is of very singular formation. Its eastern base (whence -the _hedionda_ issues) is covered with a crumbling mass of schist, -disposed in laminæ, shelving downwards, at an angle of 25 or 30 degrees -with the horizon. This sloping bank reaches to about one third the -height of the mountain, when rude rocks of a most peculiar character -shoot up above its general surface, rising pyramidically, but assuming -most fantastic forms, and each pile consisting of a series of huge -blocks (sometimes fourteen or fifteen in number), resting loosely one -upon another, and seemingly so much off the centre of gravity as to lead -to the belief that a slight push would lay them prostrate. - -At first these detached pinnacles rise only to the height of fifteen or -twenty feet, but, on drawing near the crest of the ridge, they attain -nearly twice that elevation. The general surface of the mountain, above -which these piles of rocking stones rise, is rent by deep chasms, as if -the whole mass of rock had, at some distant period, been shaken to its -very foundation by an earthquake. In these rents, soil has been -gradually collected, and vegetation been the consequence; but the -general character of the mountain is arid and sterile. - -The ascent becomes very difficult as one proceeds, and, in fact, it -requires some little agility to reach the crest of the singular ridge. -Its summit presents a very rough, though nearly horizontal surface, -varying in width from 300 to 400 yards; and, looking from its western -side, the spectator fancies himself elevated on the walls of some vast -castle, so precipitously does the rocky ledge fall in that direction, so -level and smiling is the cultivated country spread out but a couple of -hundred feet below him. - -This rocky plateau appears to have been covered, in former days, with -the same singularly formed pyramids that protrude from the eastern -acclivity of the mountain; but they have probably been hewn into mill -stones, as many of the rough blocks strewed about its surface are now in -process of becoming. The plateau extends nearly two miles in a parallel -direction to the rock of Gibraltar, that is, nearly due north and south -by compass; and, when on its summit, the ridge appears continuous; but, -on proceeding to examine the southern portion of the plateau, I found -myself suddenly on the brink of a chasm, upwards of a hundred feet -deep, which, traversing the mountain from east to west, cuts it -completely in two. This cleft varies in width from 50 to 100 feet; and -in winter brings down a copious stream, being the drain of a -considerable extent of country on the western side of the ridge. It is -partially clothed with shrubs and wild olive-trees, and a rude pathway -leads down the dark dell to the _hedionda_, which issues from the base -of the mountain, about 200 yards to the north of the opening of the -chasm. - -This remarkable gap, though not distinguishable from the baths situated -immediately below it, is so well defined, and has so peculiar an -appearance at a distance, that it is an important landmark for the -coasting vessels. - -The southern portion of the Sierra is far less accessible than that -which has been described; in fact, access to its summit can be gained -only by means of a ramped road, which, piercing the rocky precipice on -its western side, has been made to facilitate the transport of the -millstones prepared there. In other respects, this part of the plateau -is of the same character as the other. - -Wonderful are the tales of fairies, devils, and evil spirits, told by -the goatherds and others who frequent this singular mountain; and _Tio -Juan_, who never would suffer himself to be outdone in the marvellous, -told us that "_un Ingles_," who, about two years before, had been on a -visit to the baths, had disappeared there in a most mysterious way. A -goatherd of his acquaintance had seen him descend into a cleft in search -of some herb, but out of it he had never returned. "_Se dicen_," he -concluded, "_que era uno de esos Lores, de que hay tantos en -Inglaterra_;[89] but I can hardly believe, if he had possessed such -'_montones de oro_'[90] as was represented, that he would have been -going about like a pedlar, with a basket slung to his back, picking up -all sorts of herbs, and drying them with great care every day when he -returned home, spreading them out between the leaves of a large book. -'_A me mi parece_,'[91] that he was gathering them to make tea with; but -I know an herb which grows on that Sierra, which is worth all the -medicines[92] in the world: ay! and in some cases it is yet quicker, -though not more effectual, in its cure, than even the waters of the -_hedionda_; and some day, _Don Carlos_, I will walk up and show you the -cleft wherein it grows." - -The _Tio's_ occupations were, however, too constant to allow of his -accompanying me in search of this wonderful plant, and, consequently, -my curiosity concerning it was never gratified. - -The district of Manilba is celebrated for the productiveness of its -vineyards, and the undulated country between the baths and the southern -foot of the _Sierra Bermeja_ is almost exclusively devoted to the -culture of the grape. That most esteemed is a large purple kind. It is -highly flavoured, and makes a strong-bodied and very palatable wine, -though, in nine cases out of ten, the wine is spoilt by some defect of -the skin in which it has been carried. - -The husks of the Manilba grape, after the juice has been expressed, -enjoy a reputation for the cure of rheumatism, scarcely less than that -of the sulphureous spring itself. The sufferer is immersed up to the -neck in a vat full of the fermenting skins, and, after remaining therein -a whole morning, comes forth as purple as a printer's devil. I have met -with persons who declared they had received great benefit from this -vinous bath; but I question whether interment in hot sand (a mode of -treatment, by the way, which has been tried with great success) would -not have been found more efficacious, without subjecting the patient to -this unpleasant discoloration. - -Several interesting mornings' excursions may be made from the baths. The -village of Manilba (about two miles distant) is situated on a high, but -narrow ridge, that protrudes from the south-eastern extremity of the -Sierra de Utrera. It is a compactly built place, and commands fine -views: towards the mountains on one side, and over the Mediterranean on -the other. The population amounts to about 3000 souls, principally -vinedressers and husbandmen. - -On one occasion--having found all the lodging-houses at the _hedionda_ -occupied, I established myself for a few days at the posada at Manilba, -where a singular adventure befel me. Mine host entered my room on the -evening of my arrival, and very mysteriously informed me, that a certain -person--a friend of his--a Spanish officer "_por fin_," who had -distinguished himself greatly under the constitutional government, and -was a _caballero de toda confianza_,[93] wished very much to have the -honour of paying me a visit, if I were agreeable, which, hearing I was -alone, he thought it possible I might be; and, before I had time fully -to explain that I was quite tired from a long day's shooting, and must -beg to be excused, the _Lismahago_ himself walked in--as vulgar, -off-handed, free-and-easy a gentleman as I ever came across. - -Having expressed unbounded love for the English nation, and stated his -conviction--drawn from his intimate knowledge of the character of -British officers--that they were, one and all, well disposed to assist -in the grand work of regenerating Spain, he proceeded to state, that the -"friends of liberty," in various towns of that part of the Peninsula, -had entered into a plot to subvert the existing government of the -country, and having many friends in Gibraltar, wished, through the -medium of an officer of that garrison, to communicate with them; that, -understanding I was, &c. &c. &c. - -I had merely acknowledged that I comprehended what he was saying, by -bowing severally to the numerous panegyrics on liberty, and compliments -to myself and nation, with which he interlarded his discourse--for the -above is but the skimmed milk of his eloquent harangue; but, finding -that he had at length concluded, I expressed the deep regret I felt at -not being able to meet his friendly proposal in the way he wished, from -the circumstance of my time being fully occupied in preparing a -deep-laid plot against my own government--nothing less, in fact, than to -give up the important fortress of Gibraltar to the Emperor of Morocco, -until we had established a republic in England. When this grand project -was accomplished, I added, I should be quite at leisure, and would most -willingly enter into any treasonable designs against any other -government; but, at present, he must see it was quite out of the -question. - -My visiter gazed on me "with the eyes of astonishment," but I kept my -countenance. He rose from his seat--I did the same. - -"Are you serious?" asked he. - -"Perfectly so," I replied; "but, of course, I reckon on your maintaining -the strictest secrecy in the matter I have just communicated," I added -earnestly. - -"You may rely in perfect confidence upon me." - -"Do you smoke? Pray accept of a Gibraltar cigar. I regret that I cannot -ask you to remain with me, but I have letters of the utmost importance -to write, which must be sent off by daybreak." He accepted my proffered -cigar, begged I would command his services on all occasions, and walked -off. - -I made sure he was a government spy, and in a towering rage sent for the -innkeeper. He protested such was not the case, adding, "but, to confess -the truth," he was a poor harmless fellow,--a reduced officer of the -constitutional army,--who was very fond of the English, not less so of -wine; talked a great deal of nonsense, which nobody minded; and hoped I -would take no notice of it. - -I reminded mine host, that he had said he was a "_distinguished -officer_," and had called him "_his friend_."--"_Si, señor, es -verdad_;[94] but the fact is, he followed me up stairs, and I knew he -was at the door, listening to what I might say." - -I very much doubted the truth of his asseverations, and my doubts were -confirmed by my never afterwards seeing the constitutional officer about -the premises; but, to prevent a repetition of such introductions, I -begged to be allowed the privilege of choosing my own associates, -telling him, indeed, that my further stay at his house would depend upon -it. I still, however, continued to look upon the fellow as a spy, until -the mad attempt made by Torrijos to bring about a revolution, not very -long afterwards, led me to think that my visiter's overture might really -have been seriously intended. - -Manilba is distant about seven miles from Estepona. The first part of -the road thither lies through productive vineyards; the latter along the -sea-shore, on reaching which it falls into the road from Gibraltar to -Malaga. - -Not many years since Estepona was a mere fishing village, built under -the protection of one of the _casa fuertes_ that guard the coast; but -the fort stands now in the midst of a thriving town, containing 6000 -inhabitants. - -The fish taken here finds a ready sale in the Serranía, whither it is -conveyed in a half-salted state, on the backs of mules or asses. The -_Sardina_ frequents this coast in great numbers; it is a delicious -fish, of the herring kind, but more delicately flavoured. - -The environs of Estepona are very fruitful; and oranges and lemons are -exported thence to a large amount--the greater portion to England. The -place is distant twenty-five miles from Gibraltar (by the road), and -sixteen from Marbella. To the latter the road is very good. - -A most delightful ride offers itself to return from hence to the baths -of Manilba, by way of Casares. The road, for the first few miles, keeps -under the deeply seamed and pine-clad side of the _Sierra Bermeja_, and -then, leaving the mountain-path to Gaucin (mentioned in a preceding -chapter) to the right, enters an intersected country, winding along the -edge of several deep ravines, shaded by groves of chesnut-trees, and -reaches Casares very unexpectedly; leaving a large convent, situated on -the side of a steep bank, on the left, just before entering the narrow, -rock-bound town. - -The road from Casares to the baths has already been described, but two -other routes offer themselves from that town to reach Manilba. The more -direct of these keeps the fissure in which the _hedionda_ is situated on -the right; the other makes a wide circuit round the _Sierra de Utrera_, -and leaves the baths on the left. By the former the distance is five and -a half, by the latter seven miles. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - A SHOOTING PARTY TO THE MOUNTAINS--OUR ITALIAN PIQUEUR, DAMIEN - BERRIO--SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS PREVIOUS LIFE--LOS BARRIOS--THE - BEAUTIFUL MAID, AND THE MAIDEN'S LEVELLING SIRE--ROAD TO - SANONA--PREPARATIONS AGAINST BANDITS--ARRIVAL AT THE - CASERIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS OWNER AND ACCOMMODATIONS--FINE - SCENERY--A BATIDA. - - -In the wildest part of the mountainous belt that, stretching in a wide -semicircle round Gibraltar, cuts the rocky peninsula off, as it were, -from the rest of Spain, is situated the _Casería de Sanona_; a lone -house, now dwindled down to a mere farm; but, as both its name implies, -and its appearance bespeaks, formerly a place of some consequence. - -It was brought to its present lowly state during the last war, when its -inhabitants were so reduced in number, as well as circumstances, that -hands and means are still equally wanting for the proper looking after, -and attending to, the vast herds and extensive _dehesas_[95] and -forest-lands belonging to it. The consequence is, that the wolves and -wild boars, from having been so long permitted to roam about in -undisputed possession of the woods, have in their turn, from being the -persecuted, become the aggressors, and are now in the habit of making -nightly predatory visits to the cattle folds and plantations of the -_Casería_, carrying off the farmer's sheep and heifers, and destroying -his winter stock of vegetables, whenever, by any neglect or remissness -of the watch, an opportunity is afforded them. - -Besides the animals above mentioned, deer, and, in the winter, -woodcocks, find the unfrequented ravines in the vicinity of the -_Casería_ equally well suited to their secluded habits; and, tempted by -the promising account of the sport the place afforded, a party was -formed, consisting of three of my most intimate friends, myself, and a -piqueur, to proceed thither for a few days' shooting. - -Sending forward a messenger to the Casería, as well to go through the -form of asking its proprietor to "put us up," during our proposed visit, -as to request him to have a sufficient number of beaters collected--on -which the quality of the sport mainly depends--we provided ourselves -with a week's consumption of provisions and ammunition, and, leaving -Gibraltar late in the afternoon, proceeded to Los Barrios; whence, we -could take an earlier departure on the following morning than from the -locked-up fortress. - -The _Piqueur_ who usually accompanied us on these shooting excursions -was a personage of some celebrity in the Gibraltar _sporting world_, and -his name--Damien Berrio--will doubtless be familiar to such of my -readers as may have resided any time on "the rock." By birth a -Piedmontese, a baker by profession, Damien's bread--like that of many -persons in a more elevated walk of life--was not to his taste. At the -very mention of a _Batida_, he would leave oven, home, wife, and -children; shoulder his gun, fill his _alforjas_--for he was a provident -soul, and, though a baker, ever maintained that man could not live on -bread alone--borrow a horse, and, in half an hour, "be ready for a -start." - -Possessing a perfect knowledge of the country, a quick eye, an unerring -aim, and a nose that could wind an _olla_ if within the circuit of a -Spanish league, Damien was, in many respects, a valuable acquisition on -a shooting party. And to the aforesaid qualifications, befitting him for -the _staff_, he added that of being an excellent _raconteur_. In this he -received much assistance from his personal appearance, which, like that -of the inimitable Liston, passed off for humour that which, in reality, -was pure nature. - -His person was much above the common stature, erect, and well-built, but -his hands and feet were "prodigious." His face--when the sun fell -directly upon it, so as to free it from the shadow of his enormous -nose--was intelligent, and bespoke infinite good nature, though marked, -nevertheless, with the lines of care and sorrow. His costume was that of -a French sportsman, except that he wore a high-crowned, weather-beaten -old hat, placed somewhat knowingly on one side of his head, and which, -of itself alone, marked him as "_a character_." - -To those who have not had the pleasure of his acquaintance, a _precis_ -of his early history may not be unacceptable; those who already know it -will, I trust, pardon the short digression. - -Born on the sunny side of the Alps, some fifteen years before the -breaking out of the French revolution, Damien, at a very early age, was -called upon to defend his country against the aggression of its Gallic -neighbours. He was draughted accordingly to a regiment of grenadiers of -the Piedmontese army commanded by General Colli; and, in the short and -disgraceful campaign of 1796, was made prisoner with the brave but -unfortunate Provèra, at the Castle of Cosséria. - -On the formation of the Cisalpine republic soon afterwards, our -grenadier, released, as he fondly imagined, from the necessity of any -further military service, purposed returning to his family and regretted -agricultural pursuits; but, on applying for his discharge, he found that -he had quite misunderstood the meaning of the word _freedom_. "What!" -said the regenerator of his oppressed country; "what! return home like a -lazy drone, when so much still remains to be done! No, no, we cannot -part with you yet; we are about to give liberty to the rest of Italy; -you must march; can mankind be more beneficially or philanthropically -employed? _Allons! en avant! vive la liberté!_"--"And so," said Damien, -"off we were marched, under the tail of the French eagle, to give -freedom to the _Facchini of Venice_, and _Lazzaroni_ of Naples; and to -spoil and pillage all that lay in our way." - -This marauding life was ill-suited either to our hero's taste or habits, -and accordingly he embraced the first favourable opportunity of quitting -the service of the "Regenerator of Italy." How he managed to effect his -liberation I never could find out, it being one of the very few subjects -on which Damien was close; but I suspect--much as he liked -shooting--that the love of the smell of gunpowder was not a _natural_ -taste of his. Be that as it may, he made his way to Spain--took to -himself a Spanish wife--and settled at Gibraltar. - -His language, like the dress of a harlequin, was made up of -scraps,--French, Spanish, English, and Italian, joined in angularly and -without method or regularity; and all so badly spoken, as to render it -impossible to say which amongst them was the mother-tongue. -Nevertheless, Damien got on well with every body, and his _bonhommie_ -and good nature rendered him a universal favourite. In other respects, -however, he was not so favoured a child of fortune; for, though no idle -seeker of adventures, in fact, he was wont to go a great way to avoid -them, yet, as ill luck would have it, adventures very frequently came -across him. And it generally happened, as with the famed Manchegan -knight, that Damien, in his various encounters, came off "second best." -That is to say, they usually ended in his finding himself _minus_ his -gun, or his horse, or both, and, perhaps, his _alforjas_ to boot. - -By his own account, these untoward events invariably happened through -some want of proper precaution--either whilst he was indulging in a -_Siesta_, or taking a snack by the side of some cool stream, his trusty -gun being out of his immediate reach, or when committing some other -imprudent act. So it was, however, and these "_petits malheurs_," as he -was in the habit of calling them, had generated a more than ordinary -dread of robbers, which, in its turn, had produced in him a disposition -to be gregarious whenever he passed the bounds of the English garrison. - -In travelling through the mountains, we always knew when we were -approaching what Damien considered a likely spot for an ambuscade, by -his striking up a martial air that he told us had been the favourite -march of the regiment of grenadiers in which he had served; giving us -from time to time a hint that it would be well to be upon the look-out -by observing to the person next him, "_Hay muchos ladrones par ici, mon -Capitaine--el año pasado (maledetti sian' ces gueux d'Espagnols!) on m'a -volé une bonne escopète en este maldito callejon_[96]--_Il faut être -preparé, Messieurs!_" and then the Piedmontese march was resumed with -increased energy, growing _piu marcato e risoluto_, as the banks of the -gorge became higher and the underwood thicker. - -On regaining the open country, the air was changed by a playful -_Cadenza_ to one of a more lively character, and, after a _Da Capo_, -generally ended with "_n'ayez pas peur, Messieurs--questi birbánti -Spagniuoli_"[97] (he seldom abused them in their native language, lest -he should be over-heard) "_n'osent pas nous attaquer à forces égales_." - -Poor _Damien!_ many is the good laugh your fears have unconsciously -occasioned us--many the joking bet the tuning up of the Piedmontese -grenadiers' march has given rise to--and every note of which is at this -moment as perfect in my recollection as when we traversed together the -wild _puertas de Sanona_. - -The town of Los Barrios, where we took up our quarters for the night, is -twelve miles from Gibraltar. It is a small, open town, containing some -2000 souls, and, though founded only since the capture of Gibraltar, -already shows sad symptoms of decay. - -Being within a ride of the British garrison, it is frequently visited by -its inmates, and two rival _posadas_ dispute the honour of possessing -the _golden fleece_. One of them, for a time, carried all before it, in -consequence of the beauty of the _Donzella de la Casa_:[98] but beauty -_will_ fade, however unwillingly--as in this case--its possessor admits -that it does; and the "fair maid of Los Barrios," who, when I first saw -her, was really a very beautiful girl, had, at the period of my last -visit, become a coarse, fat, middle-aged, _young woman_; and, as the -charges for looking at her remained the same as ever, I proved a -recreant knight, and went to the rival posada. - -Nothing could well be more ludicrous than the contrast, in dress and -appearance, between the beauty's mother and the beauty herself--unless, -indeed, the visiter arrived very unexpectedly,--the one being dirty, -slatternly, and clothed in old rags; the other, _muy bien peynado_,[99] -and pomatumed, and decked in all the finery and ornaments presented by -her numerous admirers. The old lady was excessively proud of her -daughter's beauty and wardrobe; and in showing her off always reminded -me of the _sin-par_[100] Panza's mode of speaking of his _Sanchita, una -muchacha a quien crio para condesa_.[101] - -The father of "the beauty" was a notorious _liberal_; and, having -outraged the laws of his country on various occasions, was executed at -Seville some years since. He was, I think, the most thorough-going -leveller I ever met with--one who would not have sheathed the knife as -long as any individual better off than himself remained in the country. -Boasting to me on one occasion of the great deeds he had done during the -war, he said that in one night he had despatched eleven French soldiers, -who were quartered in his house. He effected his purpose by making them -drunk, having previously drugged their wine to produce sleep. He put -them to death with his knife as they lay senseless on the floor, carried -them out into the yard, and threw them into a pit. The monster who could -boast of such a crime would commit it if he had the opportunity; and -though I suspect the number of his victims was exaggerated, yet I have -no doubt whatever that he did not make himself out to be a murderer -without some good grounds; and, I confess, it gave me very little regret -to hear, a year or two afterwards, that he had perished on the scaffold. - -The road to Sanona enters the mountains soon after leaving Los Barrios, -ascending, for the first few miles, along the bank of the river -Palmones. The scenery is very fine; huge masses of scarped and jagged -sierras are tossed about in the most fantastic irregularity, whilst the -valleys between are clad with a luxuriance of foliage that can be met -with only in this prolific climate. - -Looking back, the silvery Palmones may be traced winding between its -wooded banks towards the bay of Gibraltar, which, viewed in this -direction, has the appearance of a vast lake; the African shore, from -Ape's Hill to the promontory of Ceuta, seeming to complete its enclosure -to the south. - -After proceeding some miles further, the road becomes a mere -mule-track, and the country very wild and barren. The Piedmontese march -had been gradually _crescendo_ ever since leaving the cultivated valley -of the Palmones, and Damien, as he rode on before us, had already given -sundry yet more palpable intimations of impending danger,--firstly, by -examining the priming of his old flint gun,--secondly, by trying whether -the balls were rammed home,--and, lastly, by producing a brandy bottle -from his capacious pocket; when, arrived at the foot of a peculiarly -dreary and rocky pass, pulling up and dismounting from his horse, under -pretence of tightening the girths of his saddle, he exclaimed, "_à -present, Messieurs, es preciso cargar--ces lâches d'Espagnols viennent -toujours a l'improviste, et se non siamo apparecchiati sarémo tutti -inretati come tanti uccellini.--Somos todos muy bien armados con -escopetas à dos cañones; y con juicio, no tendremos que temer--ma ... -bisogna giudizio!_"[102] and in accordance with his wishes thus clearly -expressed, we all loaded with ball, and, pushing on an advanced guard, -boldly entered the rugged defile, joining our voices in grand chorus in -the inspiriting grenadier's march. - -On emerging from this rocky gorge, we entered a peculiarly wild and -secluded valley, which, so completely is it shut out from all view, one -might imagine, but for the narrow path under our feet, had never been -trodden by man. The road winds round the heads of numerous dark ravines, -crosses numberless torrents, that rush foaming from the impending sierra -on the left, and is screened effectually from the sun by an impenetrable -covering of oak and other forest-trees, festooned with woodbine, -eglantine, and wild vines; whilst the valley below is clothed, from end -to end, with cistus, broom, wild lavender, thyme, and other indigenous -aromatic shrubs. - -At the end of about three leagues, we reached the head of the valley, -where one of the principal sources of the Palmones takes its rise. The -neck of land that divides this stream from the affluents to the Celemin, -is the pass of Sanona. From hence the _Casería_ is visible, and a rapid -descent of about a mile brought us to the door of the lone mansion. - -Our arrival was announced to the inmates by a general salute from the -countless dogs that invariably form part of a Spanish farmer's -establishment. The horrid din soon brought forth the equally -shaggy-coated bipeds, headed by a venerable-looking old man, who, with a -slight recognition of Damien, stepped to the front, and, in a very -dignified manner, announcing himself as the owner of the _Casería_, -begged we would alight, and consider his house our own. - -"My habitation is but a poor one, _Caballeros_; the accommodation it -affords yet poorer. I wish for your sakes I had better to offer; but of -this you may rest assured, that every thing _Luis de Castro_ possesses, -will ever be at the service of the brave nation who generously aided, -and by whose side I have fought, to maintain the independence of my -country."--"_Bravo, Don Luis!_" ejaculated Damien, which saved us the -trouble of making a suitable speech in return. - -We were much pleased with our host's appearance: indeed the shape of his -cranium was itself sufficient to secure him the good opinion of all -disciples of Spurzheim; but this feeling of gratification was by no -means called forth by his _Casería_, from the outward inspection of -which we judged the organ of accommodation to be wofully deficient. - -The house and out-buildings formerly occupied a considerable extent of -ground, but at the present day they are reduced to three sides of a -small square, of which the centre building contains the dwelling -apartments of the family, and the wings afford cover to the retainers, -cattle, and farming implements. A stout wall completes the enclosure on -the fourth side, wherein a wide folding gate affords the only means of -external communication. - -The _Casería_ has long been possessed by the family of its present -occupant, but, losing something of its importance at each succeeding -generation, has dwindled down to its present insignificant condition. -Don Luis strives hard, nevertheless, to keep up the family dignity of -the De Castros, though joining with patriarchal simplicity in all the -services, occupations, and pastimes, of his dependents. - -The portion of the house reserved for himself and family consists but of -two rooms on the ground-floor. The outer and larger of these serves the -double purpose of a kitchen and refectory; the other is appropriated to -the multifarious offices of a chapel, dormitory, henroost, and granary. -In this inner room we were duly installed,--the lady de Castro, and -other members of the family, removing into a neighbouring _choza_ during -our stay: and a sheet having been drawn over the Virgin and child, the -cocks and hens driven from the rafters, and the Indian corn swept up -into a corner, we found ourselves more _snugly_ lodged than outward -appearances had led us to expect. - -Leaving our friend Damien to make what arrangements he pleased as to -dinner--a discretional power that always afforded him infinite -gratification--we proceeded to examine the "location," with a view of -obtaining some notion of the country which was to be the scene of our -next day's sporting operations. - -The situation of the _Casería_ is singularly romantic; to the north it -is backed by a richly wooded slope, above which, at the distance of -about half a mile, a rocky ledge of sierra rises perpendicularly several -hundred feet, its dark outline serving as a fine relief to the rich and -varied green tints of the forest. In the opposite direction, the house -commands a view over a wide and partially wooded valley, along the bed -of which the eye occasionally catches a glimpse of a sparkling stream, -that is collected from the various dark ravines which break the lofty -mountain-ridges on either side. A wooded range, steep, but of somewhat -less elevation than the other mountains that the eye embraces, appears -to close the mouth of this valley; but, winding round its foot to the -right, the stream gains a narrow outlet to the extensive plain of Vejer, -and empties itself into the _Laguna de la Janda_--a portion of which may -be seen; and over this intermediate range rise, in the distance, the -peaked summits of the _Sierra de la Plata_, whose southern base is -washed by the Atlantic. - -The beauty of the scenery, heightened by the broad shadows cast upon the -mountains, and the varied tints that ever attend upon a setting sun in -this Elysian atmosphere, had tempted us to continue roaming about, -selecting the most favourable points of view, without once thinking of -our evening meal; and when, at length, the sun disappeared behind the -mountains, we found we had, unconsciously, wandered some considerable -distance from the _Casería_. We forthwith bent our steps homewards, and, -on drawing near the house, were not a little amused at hearing Damien's -stentorian halloos to draw our attention, which were sent back to him in -echoes from all parts of the _Serranía_. He was right glad to see us, -though vexed at our extreme imprudence in wandering about the woods -without an _escopeta_, or defensive weapon of any sort amongst us. - -"_Messieurs, quand vous connoitrez ces gens çi aussi bien que moi----!_" - -We referred to Don Luis (who had come out with the intention of -proceeding in search of us), whether there were any _mala gente_ in the -neighbourhood. A faint smile played about the old man's mouth as he -looked towards Damien, as if guessing the source from which our -interrogation had sprung, and, then waving his right hand to and fro, -with the forefinger extended upwards, he replied, "_Por aqui Caballeros -no hay mala gente alguna; esa Canalla conoce demasiado quien es Luis de -Castro!_"[103] - -On entering the house, we found a large party assembled round the -charcoal fire, preparing to take their evening _gazpacho_[104] -_caliente_; and, hot as had been the day, we gladly joined the circle, -until our own more substantial supper should be announced. The group -consisted of the wife, son, and daughter-in-law of our host, and several -of his friends, who, living at a distance, had come overnight, to be -ready to take part in the _batida_ on the following morning. - -A _batida_ bears so strong a resemblance to the same sort of thing -common in Germany, and indeed in some parts of Scotland, that a very -detailed account of one would be uninteresting to most of my readers. We -turned out at daybreak, and, recruited by the neighbouring peasantry, -found that we mustered twenty-three guns, and dogs innumerable, mostly -of a kind called by the Spaniards _podencos_, for which the most -appropriate term in our language is lurcher; though that does not -altogether express the strong-made, wiry-haired dog used by the -Spaniards on these occasions. - -As the _camas_[105] about Sanona are very wide, and require a number of -guns to line them, only eleven of the men could be spared for beaters. -These were placed under the direction of Alonzo, our host's son, whilst -Don Luis himself took command of the sportsmen in the quality of -_capitan_; and his first order was to prohibit all squibbing off of -guns, by which the game might be disturbed. - -The two parties, on leaving the house, took different directions. Our's, -after proceeding about a mile, was halted, and enjoined to form in rank -entire, and keep perfectly silent. We then ascended a steep, thickly -coppiced hill, and were placed in position along its crest, at intervals -of about a hundred yards, with directions to watch the openings through -the underwood in our front--to screen ourselves from observation as well -as we could--not to stir from the spot until the signal was made to -retire--and to observe carefully the position of our fellow sportsmen on -either side, to prevent accidents. - -We were much amused at the manner in which Don Luis--to whom we were all -perfect strangers--selected us to occupy the different approaches to the -position. Scanning us over from right to left, and from head to foot, he -seemed to pick and choose his men as if perfectly aware of the peculiar -qualities each possessed, befitting him for the situation in which he -purposed placing him; and, beckoning the one selected out of the rank, -without uttering a word he led him to the assigned post, pointed out the -various openings in the underwood, and gave his final instructions in a -low whisper. - -On leaving me he pointed to a narrow passage between two huge blocks of -rock, and in a low voice said "_Lobo_;"[106] which, I must confess, made -me look about for a tree, as a secure position to fall back upon, in the -event of my fire failing to bring the expected visiter to the ground. - -The position we occupied had a deep ravine in front, a wide valley on -one flank, and a precipitous wall of rock on the other; but, as the -event proved, it was far too extended. Thus posted, we remained for a -considerable time, and I began to think very meanly of the sport, -especially as I did not much like to withdraw my eyes from the rocky -pass where the wolf was to be looked for; but at length the distant -shouts of the beaters resounded through the mountains, and a few minutes -after, the faint but true-toned yelp of one of the hounds put me quite -on the _qui vive_; and when, in a few seconds, other dogs gave tongue, -and several shots were fired by the beaters (who are furnished with -blank cartridge), giving the assurance that game had been sprung, a -feeling of excitement was produced, that can, I think, hardly be -equalled by any other description of sport. - -The first gun from our own party almost induced me to rush forward and -break the line; but, just at the moment, a rustling in the underwood -drew my attention, and, looking up, I saw a fine buck "at gaze," as the -heralds say, about thirty yards off, and exactly in the direction of the -spot where I had seen my friend G---- posted. - -The animal, with ears erect, was listening, in evident alarm, to the -barking of the dogs; yet, from the shot just fired in his front, -scarcely knowing on which side danger was most imminent. I was so -screened by the underwood that he did not perceive me, and I could have -shot him with the greatest ease--that is to say, had my nervous system -been in proper trim,--but that the fear of killing my neighbour withheld -me; so there I stood, with my gun at the first motion of the present, -and there stood the deer, in just as great a _quandary_. - -At length, losing all patience, I hallooed to my neighbour by name, -hoping by his reply to learn whereabouts he was (for that he had moved -from his post was evident), and, if possible, get a shot at the deer as -he turned back, which I doubted not he would do. But, alas! my call -produced no response, and the fine animal bounded forward, breaking -through our line, and rendering it too hazardous for me to salute him -with both barrels, as I had murderously projected. - -Soon after the horn sounded for our reassembly. The _cama_[107] had -been very unsuccessful. One deer only, besides that which visited me, -had been driven through our line; the rest of the herd, and several wild -boars, turned our position by its right, which was too extensive for the -small number of guns. One of the Spaniards had shot a fox, which was all -we had to show; and his companions shook their heads, considering it a -bad omen, and that it was, indeed, likely to turn out "_una dia de -zorras_."[108] - -On my relating the tantalizing dilemma in which I had been placed, old -_Luis_, who felt somewhat sore at the signal failure of his generalship, -declared we should have no sport if I stood upon such ceremony; adding, -with much energy of manner, and addressing himself to the assembled -party, "As soon as ever you see your game, _carajo! candela!_"[109]--a -speech that reminded us forcibly of Suwarrow's reply to his Austrian -coadjutor, when urging the prudence of a _reconnoissance_ before -undertaking some delicate operation, viz.--"_Poussez en avant--chargez à -la bayonette--voilà mes reconnoissances._" - -The beaters were now directed to make a "wide cast," and, if possible, -head the game that had escaped us, whilst we moved off to a fresh -position, about half a mile in rear, and perpendicular to the former. -This plan was pretty successful: we killed a wolf and two deer, but Don -Luis was by no means satisfied. - -It was now noon-day, and, ascending a rocky ledge that projects into the -wide valley, already described as lying in front of the house, we -obtained a splendid panoramic view of the whole wooded district of -Sanona. We found, on gaining the summit, that the provident Damien had -directed a _muchacho_ to meet us there, with a mule-load of provender, -which he was pleased to call "_un petit peu de rafraichissement_." We -were quite prepared to acknowledge our sense of his foresight and -discretion in the most unequivocal manner; for the exertion of climbing -the successive mountain-ridges, and forcing our way through the -underwood, as well as the excitement of the sport, had given a keen edge -to our appetites. - -Whilst seated in a convivial circle, smoking our cigars at the -conclusion of our repast, we observed that poor Alonzo--who, though a -stoutly built, was a very sickly-looking man--appeared to be quite -exhausted from the heat and fatigue of the day, and that poor old Luis -looked from time to time on his son, as he lay full-length upon the -ground, with a heart-rending expression of grief. - -One of our party remarked to him, that Alonzo did not appear to be well, -and suggested that he had better not exert himself further. Don Luis -shook his head. "Alas! señor!" he replied, "my poor Alonzo is as well as -ever he again will be. But do not suppose that he is a degenerate scion -of the De Castros; nor even that I regret seeing him in his present -state. No: much as I once wished to see the family name handed down to -another generation--of which there is now no chance--I would rather, -much rather, that he should have sacrificed his health--his life -indeed--for his country, than that any vain wish of mine should be -gratified." - -Our curiosity excited by the words, and yet more by the manner of the -old man, we ventured, after some little preamble, to ask what had -occasioned the change in his son that his speech implied. - -"It is a long story, _caballeros_," he answered; "but, as the sun is now -too powerful to allow us to resume our sport, I will, if you feel -disposed to listen to a garrulous old man, relate the circumstances that -led to my son's being reduced to the lamentable state in which you see -him." We contracted the circle round Don Luis, the Spaniards, -apparently, quite as intent on hearing the thrice-told tale as -ourselves; and Damien, though still busily occupied at his -"_rafraichissement_," also lending an attentive ear. - -The fine old man was seated on a rock, elevated somewhat above the rest -of the party, holding in his right hand his uncouth-looking -fowling-piece, whilst the other rested on the head of a favourite dog, -that came, seemingly, to beg his master to remonstrate with Damien for -using his teeth to tear off the little flesh that remained on a -ham-bone. - -Don Luis, after patting the impatient favourite on the head and bidding -him lie down, thus began his story. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -LUIS DE CASTRO. - -"_Tiene este caso un no sé que de sombra de adventura de -Caballeria._"--DON QUIJOTE. - - -I need not tell enlightened Englishmen--commenced Don Luis--that the -name I bear is no common one. The Casería which you there see, and all -the shady glens we here look down upon, were granted to the renowned De -Castro, whose valour so materially aided the Catholic kings, of blessed -memory, in the pious work of extirpating the vile followers of the -Arabian Impostor from the soil of Spain; and the patrimony thus acquired -by my ancestor's sword has been handed down from generation to -generation to me,--too likely, alas! to be the last of the race to -inherit it. - -I married early in life, and was blessed with several children. Alonzo, -the first-born, was the only one permitted to reach maturity,--but I -repine not. They were all healthy, and every thing a parent could wish. -Years rolled on unmarked by any events of importance. Our days were -passed in attending to our herds; our evenings, in singing and dancing -to the notes of the wild guitar. Our festivals were devoted to the -exhilarating sport we have this morning been following; nor did we, -amidst our happiness, neglect to offer up our thanks to the Omnipotent -Deity, who,--through the propitiating influence of our patron -saints--was pleased to pour his blessings upon us. - -But a storm arose, which, for a time, shook our happy country to its -foundation. Spain became the object of a vile tyrant's insatiable -ambition. The perfidious Corsican, under the specious plea of -friendship, marched his licentious legions into our devoted country: and -having, by shameless deceit, first possessed himself of all our -strongholds, threw off the mask, and treated us as a conquered nation. - -This favoured province was, for some considerable time saved from the -desolation that wasted the rest of Spain, by the heroism of one of her -sons:--the brave Castaños hastened to place himself at the head of the -national troops, and in the defiles of the Sierra Morena, captured a -whole French army. But jealousy and intrigue--the greatest enemies our -country had to contend against--caused his services to be requited with -ingratitude. Another French army advanced, but we had not another -Castaños to oppose it. The enemy forced the barriers with which nature -and art had defended the province, and, like a swarm of locusts, spread -over and consumed the rich produce of its fertile fields. - -The mountaineers of Ronda and Granada, engaged in the vile contraband -trade which the disorganized state of the country favoured, were slow to -take up arms against the invaders, but "_Io y mi gente_" (I and my -people) were early in the field, harassing their parties conveying -supplies to the siege of Cadiz, as well as protecting the surrounding -country from their predatory visits; and our secluded _Casería_ afforded -a secure retreat to the inhabitants of the plain, when forced to abandon -their hearths. - -I will not take up your time with the account of the various encounters -we had with the enemy--they are well known throughout the Serranía--but -will confine my narrative to what more particularly concerns my son. - -On one occasion, fortune presented him with an opportunity of saving a -party of the king's troops, who had got entangled in the intricacies of -the Serranía; his knowledge of the country having enabled him to lead -them clear of their pursuers, and bring them safely to the _Casería_. - -Disappointed of the prey they had so confidently calculated upon, and -uneasy at a body of disciplined troops being added to our _guerilla_, -and established so close to them, the enemy determined on sending a -large force to root us out of our fastness. We, on our parts, hoping -that the French were unconscious of the place where the troops had found -a refuge, were meditating an attack upon their post of Alcalà, when the -storm burst suddenly upon our heads, and, but for the devotedness and -presence of mind of my gallant son, would have involved us all in one -common destruction. - -Alonzo had gone off to reconnoitre in the direction of Tarifa, a rumour -having reached us that the enemy had invested that place; and we were -anxiously awaiting his return to decide upon our plans, when, soon after -nightfall, a lad belonging to the _Venta de Tabilla_ arrived at the -_Casería_ on my son's horse, and in hurried words, informed me that a -large body of French troops was advancing upon the house. - -The enemy had forced this lad,--who alone had been left in charge of the -_Venta_,--to be their guide, and he had already conducted them across -the swamps at the head of the _Laguna de la Janda_, and was within a -hundred yards of the road leading from Tarifa to Casa Vieja--by keeping -along which to the left, he purposed gaining the shortest road into our -sequestered valley--when Alonzo crossed the path immediately in front of -them. - -From what we learnt afterwards it appeared, that he had been for some -time watching the enemy's movements, and, guessing from the direction -they had finally taken, whither they were bound, had thus purposely -thrown himself in their way; resolved--cut off as he found himself from -the shortest road to the _Casería_--to take this hazardous step to save -us from a surprise. - -On being questioned as to his knowledge of the country, he at once -offered to guide them to the _Casería_. "This is your way," he said, -pointing in the direction, whence he had just come, "but yonder is my -house," motioning with his head towards the _Cortijo de le las Habas_; -which, though about half a mile off, was yet visible in the dusk; "I -will send my jaded horse home by the boy, and accompany you on foot." - -The commanding officer, to whom this was addressed, made no objection; -in fact, he probably thought that their guide would be more in their -power without his horse. - -Alonzo gave his beast to the lad, saying significantly, "_Juanillo_, -tell my father I have fallen in with some friends and shall not be at -home for some little time; be quick; make your way back to the venta -without delay, as soon as you have delivered my message; and, as you -value your life,--no babbling." - -My son then turned off to the right, taking the best but far the most -circuitous route into the valley of Sanona, whilst _Juanillo_, putting -his horse into a canter, proceeded in the direction of the _Cortijo de -las Habas_, but, ere reaching it, struck into the difficult pass you see -below there, whence a rude foot-path leads direct to the _Casería_, and -by which he had intended to conduct the enemy. - -It seemed to us--what indeed proved to be the case--that my son's -message was intended to hint to us the necessity for flight, and -_Juanillo's_ account of the number of the enemy, would fully have -warranted our avoiding an encounter; but, thinking Alonzo's life would -surely pay the forfeit of our escape, we determined to anticipate their -attack and give him a chance of saving himself. - -Prudence suggested the propriety of sending away our women and children. -Mounting them, therefore, on _borricos_, we hurried them off by the -mountain path to the _Casa de Castañas_, or _de las Navas_, as it is -otherwise called, from the name of its proprietor--a solitary house, -situated in a wooded valley, several miles to the north of Sanona. - -The women had scarcely left the _Casería_, ere we heard the distant -tramp of horses in the valley below. Leaving a part of the soldiers to -defend the house, I led the rest, and my own people, out as silently as -possible, and posted them on the upper side of the path by which the -French were advancing. The enemy halted directly under the muzzles of -our guns, and a corporal and two dragoons were sent on to the house to -ask for a night's lodging. - -Nothing could be more favourable than the opportunity now presented for -attacking them, but I hesitated to give the word until I had discovered -my son, anxious as well to give him a chance of escape, as to save him -from our own fire. At last I recognised him: he was standing at the side -of the commander of the party, who, with a pistol in his hand, was -questioning him in a low tone of voice. - -The corporal now thundered at the gate of the _Casería_. "_Quien es?_" -demanded the soldiers from within. I listened to no more; for, observing -that the commander's attention was for the moment attracted to the -proceedings of his advanced guard, and that Alonzo, in consequence, was -comparatively out of his reach, "_Candela!_" I cried out to my people, -directing, at the same time, my own unerring rifle at the head of the -French captain. - -Twenty guns answered to the word. The commander of the enemy fell -headlong to the earth; his horse sprung violently off the ground, -reared, staggered, and fell back; a dozen Frenchmen bit the dust; the -rest turned and fled, ere we could reload our pieces. - -I pressed forward to embrace my brave son, but saw him not. I called him -by name, but a faint groan was the only reply I received. I turned in -the direction of the sound, and found the Frenchman's horse, struggling -in the agonies of death, upon the bleeding body of my Alonzo. He had -been wounded in the breast by the Frenchman's pistol, the trigger of -which had, apparently, been pressed in the convulsive movement -occasioned by his death-wound. The horse had been shot by one of our -men, had fallen upon Alonzo, and broken several of his ribs. We conveyed -him to the house, without a hope of his recovery. - -In the excess of my grief, I thought not of sending after the women. -Alonzo was the first to bring me to a sense of my remissness, by -enquiring for his wife and child. I expressed my joy at hearing him -speak, for he had lain many hours speechless. He pressed my hand, and -added, "Father, I wish to see them once again before I die--to have a -mother's blessing also--for I feel my end approaching." - -I instantly despatched four of my people to the _Casa de Castañas_ to -escort them back, for I recollected that the three Frenchmen who had -been sent forward to demand admission to the house, had effected their -escape, and must be, wandering about the mountains. - -The sun had risen some hours, and yet no tidings reached us of them. I -began to feel very uneasy. A terrible presentiment disturbed me. I went -to the iron cross that stands on the mound in front of our house, whence -a view is obtained of the pass leading to _Las Navas_. I heard a wild -scream, that pierced my very soul, and the moment after, caught a -glimpse of a female figure, hastening with mad speed down the rocky path -leading to the _Casería_. It was my daughter-in-law, Teresa! - -"See," she exclaimed, with frantic exultation, showing me her hands -stained with blood, "see--I killed him! my knife pierced the heart of -the murderer of my child! I killed the vile Frenchman! The wife of a De -Castro ever carries a knife to avenge her wrongs--to defend her honour!" - -That some terrible catastrophe had happened was too evident, but from -the unhappy maniac it was impossible to gather any thing definite. - -I mounted my horse, and rode with the speed of desperation towards the -_Casa de Castañas_, but had not proceeded far ere I met my people -returning, bearing my wife on a litter, and accompanied by two only of -the women who had accompanied her, mounted on _borricos_. - -"Dead?" I asked. It was the only word I could utter. - -"No, Luis," replied one of my faithful followers, "not dead, and, we -hope, not even seriously hurt; but evil has befallen your house--your -three young children and your grandson are lost to you for ever." - -"Lost! murdered? This is, indeed, a heavy blow, a severe trial. Perhaps -I am now childless;--God's will be done." - -"Proceed gently to the _Casería_ with your burthen; I will hasten -forward, and send assistance, and such cordials as may be required to -restore my Ana." - -On my return I was surprised to see Alonzo sitting up, and his wife at -his bedside. I cannot describe the joy of that moment; but there was a -fearful expression of determination in my son's contracted brows, that -almost led me to fear for his mind. He turned to me for explanation, but -as yet I could give him none. The party shortly arrived, however, and -the women gave us a full account of the overwhelming disaster that had -befallen us. - -On leaving the _Casería_ they had proceeded with such speed as the -darkness of the night permitted, towards the _Casa de Castañas_, and had -reached within a quarter of a league of the house, when the trampling of -horses behind them, spread the greatest alarm amongst these defenceless -females. It was clear that those who were in pursuit could not be their -friends, otherwise they would call to them to return; and concluding -therefore, that the enemy had prevailed at the _Casería_, naturally -considered their danger imminent. - -My wife and daughter-in-law, with their children, and three of the -women, being well mounted, pressed forward to the solitary house for -shelter; the others, finding the Frenchmen--whom they could now hear -conversing--gaining rapidly upon them, with more good fortune took to -the woods; and, as we eventually learnt, reached Los Barrios in safety. - -On arriving at the _Casa de Castañas_, it was found to be totally -abandoned. They had barely time to close the outer gate, and shut -themselves up in a loft,--that could be ascended only by a ladder, and -through a trap-door, which they let fall--before their pursuers rode up -to the house. At first the Frenchmen civilly demanded admission; but -this being refused, they--guessing, probably, how the case stood, from -none but female voices replying to their demands--proceeded to threaten -to force an entrance. - -My daughter-in-law, who speaks a few words of French, then appeared at -the window; told them it was an abandoned house, and contained -absolutely nothing, not even refreshment for their horses; that, by -keeping down the valley to the left, they would, in less than an hour, -reach the _Hermita of El Cuervo_, where they would find all they might -stand in need of. - -The beauty of her who addressed them--for in those days my -daughter-in-law was a lovely young woman of eighteen--awakened the most -lawless of passions in these ruthless profligates. Affecting, however, -to disbelieve her statement of the unprovided condition of the house, -they forced open the outer gate, and, after vainly endeavouring to -persuade the terrified females to descend from their place of refuge, -collected all the straw and other combustible articles that were -scattered about the premises, in the apartment beneath, and threatened -to set fire to the house. - -In vain was appeal made to their clemency, to the boasted gallantry of -their nation, to every honourable feeling that inhabits the breast of -man. And at length, exasperated at the determination of these devoted -women, and possibly--it is a compliment I am willing to pay human -nature--thinking that a little smoke would soon induce them to descend, -the reckless monsters fired the straw. The whole building was quickly -enveloped in flames. - -For some minutes the unhappy beings above thought that the straw, being -damp, would not ignite so as to communicate with the wooden rafters of -the floor which supported them, and hoped that they were free from -danger; but the smoke which ascended soon, of itself, became -intolerable. Two of my children dropped on the floor from the effects -of suffocation; and one of women, taking her infant in her arms, jumped -from the window and was killed on the spot. - -My daughter-in-law, seeing that for herself there was but a choice of -death,--for the flames had now burst through the crackling -floor,--determined to make an effort to save her child. Pressing him to -her bosom, and covering him with her shawl to protect him from the -flames in her descent, she lifted the trap-door and placed her foot upon -the ladder. The fire had yet spared the upper steps, but ere she reached -the bottom the charred wood gave way, and she fell. The child escaped -from her arms and rolled amongst the blazing straw; she started upon her -feet to save him, but the rude hand of one of the ruffians seized and -dragged her from the flames into the court-yard. Vainly she implored to -be allowed to go to the rescue of her helpless infant; the monster--even -at such a moment looking upon his victim with the eyes of lust--would -not listen to her heart-rending appeals. The agonizing screams of her -writhing offspring gave her superhuman strength; she seized her knife; -plunged it deep in the Frenchman's breast; and, released from his -paralyzed arms, rushed back into the flames. - -Alas! it was too late--nothing but the blackened skeleton now remained -of her darling child. - -She darted, with the fury of a tigress robbed of its young, upon one of -the other Frenchmen, but he disarmed her, and, with a returning feeling -of humanity, forbore inflicting any further injury upon the frantic -woman; and, after some apparent altercation with his companion, both -mounted their horses and rode away. They were just in time to make their -escape, as the four men I had despatched rode up to the front gate of -the house, as they went off by the other. - -One of my people was an inhabitant of the _Casa de Castañas_, and -knowing the premises, quickly brought a ladder from a place of -concealment, and applied it to the window of the burning portion of the -building. My wife and the other two women were brought down safely, -though all more or less scorched, but the floor gave way before the -children, who were lying in an insensible state from suffocation, could -be removed. - -I despatched an indignant remonstrance to the French general, on the -inhuman conduct of his troops towards helpless women and children; and -threatened, if the perpetrators were not signally punished, to hang -every one of his countrymen that might fall into my hands, but he never -deigned to answer my letter. - -Some weeks elapsed after these events, ere Alonzo could leave his couch; -and the enemy seemed now so fully occupied in pressing the siege of -Cadiz, that we were led to believe they entertained no idea of paying -the _Casería_ a second visit. - -Want of provisions, and still more of ammunition, had hitherto prevented -our being of much service, in harassing the enemy during their -operations; but, having obtained supplies from Algeciras, I determined -to follow up my remonstrance with a blow, and mustering all our -strength, to make an attempt to carry the enemy's post at _Casa Vieja_. - -For this purpose I fixed on the _Casa de Castañas_ for the general -rendezvous; that spot being more conveniently situated than Sanona, for -those who were to join our ranks from Castellar, Ximena, and other -places, and equally as near the projected point of attack. - -At the appointed day, I proceeded with my people to the place of -concentration. Alonzo had insisted on accompanying us, though yet hardly -able to cross a horse; but he thirsted for the blood of the destroyers -of his child and brothers. On reaching the _Casa de Castañas_, however, -his strength failed him, and he was obliged to remain there. - -Leaving _Pepito_, who sits there, then a beardless boy, to tend upon -Alonzo, and accompany him back to Sanona on the morrow, we departed on -our expedition. - -The chapel and few houses which compose the village of _Casa Vieja_, -are situated on the brow of a high hill overlooking a wide plain, -watered by the river Barbate. Not a bush interrupts the view for several -miles in any direction, so that to approach the place some -circumspection was requisite. I halted my men in the woods bordering the -Celemin--on the very spot, perhaps, where Muley Aben Hassan, King of -Granada, fixed his camp, when he sallied forth from Malaga to plunder -the estates of the Duke of Medina Sidonía--and sent one of my most -trustworthy followers on to reconnoitre, purposing, if a favourable -report was received, to make an attack at the point of day, trusting to -the shadows of night to conceal our march across the open plain. - -Our scout returned only a couple of hours before dawn. He had -experienced much difficulty in fording the Barbate, which was swollen by -recent rains. He brought us the startling news, that a considerable -French force had left Alcalá de los Gazules, the preceding day, to -penetrate into the mountains, and was now probably in our rear, either -at the _Casa de Castañas_ or at Sanona. - -It was necessary to fall back immediately. We were at the fork of the -roads leading from those two places to _Casa Vieja_, but on which should -we direct our march? My heart whispered, to the former, where my Alonzo, -the last of my race, was left defenceless; but the wives and families -of my companions were all at Sanona, and duty bade me hasten thither for -their protection. The struggle of my feelings was severe, but short. I -sent a trusty friend on a swift horse to save Alonzo, if time yet -permitted, and hurried the march of my troop to the _Casería_. We -reached it in three hours. - -We found every thing as we had left it. Those who had remained there had -neither seen nor heard anything of the enemy, but my son had not -returned home. I now regretted not having proceeded to the _Casa de -Castañas_, and proposed to my wearied men to march on and attack the -_Gavachos_ in their passage through the passes, fully expecting they -would now direct their steps to the _Casería_. They acceded to my -proposal with _vivas_. A cup of wine and a mouthful of bread were given -to each, and we were off. - -We had not yet gained the pass yonder, at the back of the house, when we -met the man I had sent to the _Casa de Castañas_, coming towards us at -full speed. He informed us that he had encountered the French when on -his way to _Las Navas_, directing their march towards _Casa Vieja_. -Fortunately escaping their observation, he had concealed himself in a -thicket whilst they passed. _Pepito_--whom, it will be recollected, I -had left with Alonzo--was walking by the side of one of their officers, -undergoing a strict examination respecting our movements, &c. They had -several other prisoners in charge, who were tied together in couples, -but he could not distinguish Alonzo amongst them. My son's favourite -dog, _Hubilon_, however, brought up the rear, led by one of the -marauders; and the faithful creature's oft-averted head and restive -attempts to escape, sufficiently proved that his master had been left -behind. - -Under this conviction, he had pushed on to the _Casa de Castañas_ as -soon as the enemy were out of sight, and had thoroughly searched every -part of the building; but not a living being did it contain. The pigeons -even had deserted it, or, more probably, had been sacrificed, for -feathers and bones were scattered about on all sides, the smoke of -numerous fires darkened the white-washed walls, and the stains of wine -were left on the stone pavement, proving that the house had lately been -the scene of a deep carouse. - -From this account, it was evident that the Frenchmen had marched upon -our track in the hope of taking us between two fires, and it was most -fortunate we had returned to Sanona, instead of falling back upon the -_Casa de Castañas_; for the superiority of their number, in a chance -encounter, would have given them every advantage. - -It was probable that the enemy would now continue their pursuit in -hopes of taking us by surprise at Sanona; we countermarched immediately -therefore, and passing the _Casería_, took up a strong position about -two miles beyond it, on the road to _Casa Vieja_, where we waited for -the enemy. - -We were not mistaken in our supposition, for scarcely were my men -posted, when the French advance appeared in sight. I allowed them to -approach to within pistol shot, and gave them a volley. My men were -scattered among the bushes, so that the extent of our fire made our -force appear much larger than it was in reality. We killed and wounded -several. - -The enemy paused, and seeing by their numbers that if they pushed boldly -on, resistance on our parts would be vain, I determined to try and -intimidate them; and taking for this purpose eight or ten active -fellows, we made our way through the brushwood which covered the hill -side on our left, and opened a flank fire upon the main body of the -enemy; who, imagining a fresh column had come to take part in the -action, fell back in some confusion to a place of greater security, and -one where they had more space to deploy their strength. - -We had effectually succeeded in frightening them, however, and no -further attempt was made to force our position; but it was not until the -next day that they finally left the mountains and retired to their -fortified posts of Casa Vieja and Alcalà. - -No sooner had I seen them fairly out of the Serranía, than I retraced my -steps with all possible speed to Sanona; still indulging the fond hope -that Alonzo might have made his escape and reached home; but, -disappointed in this expectation, I proceeded on without loss of time to -the _Casa de Castañas_. - -I had scarcely entered the house ere I was greeted by "_Hubilon_,"--ay, -my good dog, said Don Luis, caressing his pet, your grandsire--who -evidently had come on the same errand as myself. But our search was -fruitless. The well, the vaults, the lofts and out-houses, every place, -was ransacked, but I discovered nothing to lead to the belief that -Alonzo had either been left there or been murdered. I mounted my horse -to return home, and had proceeded some little way, when I heard the howl -of _Hubilon_. Thinking I had inadvertently shut him in the house, I sent -back one of my companions to release him, but he returned, saying that -the dog would not leave the spot. I returned myself, but the sagacious -animal was not to be enticed away; he gave evident signs of pleasure at -seeing me, and began scratching furiously at the boarded floor of one of -the interior apartments. I approached to see what it was that excited -his attention, and discovered a trap door. With some little difficulty -I raised it up, and _Hubilon_ instantly leapt into the dark abyss. His -piteous whining soon informed me that he had found the body of his -master; a light was struck; I let myself down, and on the stone floor of -the cold, damp vault lay the body of my unfortunate son; his hands were -tied behind his back, and a handkerchief was drawn across his mouth to -stifle his cries! - -To me it appeared that the spirit of my Alonzo had long left its earthly -tenement, but the affectionate brute, by licking his master's face, -proved that life was not yet entirely extinct. Assisted by my -companions, I lifted my son out of the noxious vault, and, by friction, -a dram of _aguadiente_, and exposure to the sun and a purer atmosphere, -animation was gradually restored; and in the course of a few days he was -able to bear the journey home; but from the effects of this confinement -he has never recovered. - -He had no recollection of any of the circumstances which preceded his -incarceration. A raging fever, brought on by fatigue and exposure to the -sun in his previously weak state, had affected his brain, as well as -deprived him of all strength. But _Pepito_ (who rejoined us a few days -after,) stated, that Alonzo himself, in his delirium, had declared to -the French on their arrival, who he was, and had besought them to put -an end to his sufferings. The superior officer of the party had -directed, however, that he should not be ill-treated; "what if he be the -son of the _old wild boar_?" (the name by which they honoured me,) said -he to his men; "we came not to murder our enemies in cold blood--carry -him into the house and let him die in peace." - -_Pepito_ guessed by the malignant glance of one Italian-looking -scoundrel--"I ask your pardon, Señor Damien," said Don Luis, in a -parenthesis; "_servitore umilissimo_," replied he of the _Val -d'Aosta_.--_Pépé_ guessed, I say, by the look that he who stepped -forward to execute the orders of his officer gave one of his companions, -whom he invited to assist him, that their superior's humane intentions -would not be fulfilled; he begged hard, therefore, to be allowed to -remain and wait upon his young master. "Impossible," replied the -officer, "you must be our guide." - -The two men were absent but a few minutes, and then came out of the -house and informed the officer that they had placed the rebel chief in -the coolest place they could find; probably their fear of Alonzo's cries -had deterred them from killing him outright. - -The abominable cruelties of these dastards exasperated every one. The -expedition which was at this time undertaken to raise the siege of Cadiz -promised to afford us a favourable opportunity of taking vengeance; but -the cowardice of a Spaniard--the cowardice, if not treason, of a Spanish -general--marred our fair prospects. The glorious field of Barrosa decked -with fresh laurels the brows of our brave allies; but, to this day, the -very name fills the breast of every loyal Spaniard with shame. Oh! that -I and my people had been thereto share the danger and glory of that day; -but we fulfilled with credit the part allotted to us. In the plan -adopted by the allied generals it was settled that the _Serraños_, -should make a diversion in the direction of _Casa Vieja_ and _Alcalà de -los Gazules_, to draw the enemy's attention on that side, whilst their -combined forces should proceed along the coast to Chiclana; accordingly -_io y mi gente_.... - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - DON LUIS'S NARRATIVE IS INTERRUPTED BY A BOAR--THE BATIDA - RESUMED--DEPARTURE FROM SANONA--ROAD TO CASA VIEJA--THE PRIEST'S - HOUSE--ADVENTURE WITH ITINERANT WINE-MERCHANTS--DEPARTURE FROM CASA - VIEJA--ALCALA DE LOS GAZULES--ROAD TO XIMENA--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR. - - -The old man, excited by the stirring recollections of the eventful times -to which his narrative referred, his eyes sparkling with animation, and -his words flowing somewhat more rapidly than in their wonted even -current, had risen from his rocky seat, and, having transferred his -fowling-piece to the left hand, was standing with his right arm extended -in the direction of the scene of his former exploits, when he suddenly -dropt his voice, and, after slowly, and, as it appeared to us, -abstractedly, repeating his favourite expression, "_Io y mi gente_," he -ceased altogether to speak, and appeared transfixed to the spot. His -right arm remained stretched out towards Cadiz, and his head was turned -slightly to one side, but the only motion perceptible was a tightening -of the fingers round the barrel of his long gun. - -As if from the effect of sympathy, Damien's jaws--which for the last -hour had been keeping _Hubilon_ in a state of tantalization, threatening -to produce St. Vitus's dance--suddenly became equally motionless; his -huge proboscis was turned on one side for a moment to allow free access -to his left ear, and then starting up he exclaimed, "_Javali! -cospetto!_"[110] - -"_Quiet ... o!_" said Don Luis, in an undertone, at the same time -motioning Damien to resume his seat, "_Si, es una puerca_."[111] And -then making signs to his men, they rose without a word, and went -stealthily off down the hill. - -We now distinctly heard the grunting of a pig, and were hastily -distributed in a semicircle, along the crest of the steep ridge we had -selected for our resting-place. We had scarcely got into position before -the cries of the beaters, and several shots fired in rapid succession, -gave us notice that they had come in sight of the chase; but the sounds -died away, and we were beginning to speak to each other in terms of -disappointment, when a loud grunt announced the vicinity of a visiter. -Hearing our voices, however, he went off at a tangent, and attempted to -cross the ridge lower down; but this was merely, as the Spaniards say, -"_Escapar del trueno y dar en el relampago_:"[112] a sharp fire there -opened upon him, and after various trips he was fairly brought to the -ground. Our _couteaux de chasse_ were instantly brandished, but the -grisly monster, recovering himself quickly, once more got into a long -trot, and, most probably, would have effected his escape, but that he -was encountered and turned back by some of the dogs. Finding himself -thus pressed on all sides by enemies, he again attempted to force the -line of sportsmen, and a second time was made to bite the dust. He -managed, nevertheless, to recover himself once more, and might, even yet -possibly, have got away from us but for the dogs, which hung upon and -detained him until some of the beaters came up and despatched him with -their knives; not, however, until he had killed one dog outright, and -desperately gored two others. The dogs showed extraordinary _pluck_ in -attacking him. - -On examining the huge monster, we found he had received no less than -four bullets: two in the neck, and two in the body. A fire was -immediately kindled, and, having been singed, to destroy the vermin -about him, he was decorated with laurel and holly, placed on the back of -a mule, and, with the rest of our spoils, sent off to the _Casería_. - -The beaters informed us, that they had seen the wild sow and four young -ones, which Don Luis had sent them after; but that they had made off -through the wooded valley to the right, ere they could succeed in -heading and turning them up the hill. - -It was decided that we should proceed immediately after them, and leave -the conclusion of Don Luis's tale for the charcoal fire-circle in the -evening; but, as the rest of his story related principally to events -that are well known, and was all "_Santiago y cierra España_,"[113] I -will spare my readers the recital. - -The rest of the day's sport was poor, but the grand and ever-varying -mountain scenery was of itself an ample reward for the fatigue of -scrambling up the steep braes. Towards sunset we retraced our steps, -thoroughly tired, to the _Casería_. Damien, mounting a stout mule, rode -on to prepare dinner, saying, "_Messieurs, sans doute, désireront goûter -du chevreuil de Sanone; vado avanti con questo motivo, e subito, subito, -all red-dy"_;[114] and, digging his heels into the animal's side, he -thereupon started off at a jog-trot, his huge feet sticking out at right -angles, like the paddle-boxes of a steamer, the smoke of a cigar rolling -away from his mouth, like the clouds from the steamer's tall black -funnel. - -On the following morning we departed from Sanona, taking the road to -Casa Vieja, and sending our game into Gibraltar. - -Don Luis would on no account receive any remuneration for the use of his -house, &c.; and a very moderate sum satisfied the beaters he had engaged -for us. - -The distance to Casa Vieja is about twelve miles, the country wild and -beautiful; but the view, after gaining a high pass, about three miles -from Sanona, is confined to the valley along which the road thenceforth -winds, until it reaches the river Celemin. This stream is frequently -rendered impassable by heavy rains. Emerging now from the woods and -mountains, the road soon reaches the Barbate, which river, though -running in a broad and level valley, is of a like treacherous character -as the Celemin. - -The little chapel and hamlet, whither we were directing our steps, now -became visible, being situated under the brow of a high hill on the -opposite bank of the river, and distant about a mile and a half. The -road across the valley is very deep in wet weather, and the Barbate is -often so swollen, as to render it necessary, in proceeding from Casa -Vieja to the towns to the eastward, to make a wide circuit to gain the -bridges of Vejer or Alcalà de los Gazules. - -We "put up" at the house of the village priest, which adjoins the -chapel. Indeed the portion of his habitation allotted to our use was -under the same roof as the church, and communicated with it by a private -door; and I have been credibly informed that, on some occasions, when -the party of sportsmen has been large, beds have been made up within the -consecrated walls of the chapel itself, whereon some of the visiters -have stretched their wearied heretical limbs and rested their _aching_ -heads. In our case there was no occasion to lead the _Padre_ into the -commission of such a sin, since the small apartment given up to us was -just able to contain four stretchers, in addition to a large table. - -The priest was another "_amigo mio de mucha aprec'ion_"[115] of Señor -Damien. Their friendship was based upon the most solid of all -foundations--mutual interest; for, it being an understood thing that the -accommodation, and whatever else we might require, was to be paid for at -a fixed rate, both parties were interested in prolonging our stay: the -_Padre_, to gain wherewith to shorten the pains of purgatory, either for -himself or others; Damien, simply because he liked shooting better than -even baking in this world. - -To us also this was an agreeable arrangement, since it granted us a -dispensation from all ceremony in ordering whatever we wanted, and gave -us also the privilege of making the Padre's house our home as long as we -pleased. Accordingly, finding the sport good, we passed several days -here very pleasantly. The snipe and duck shooting in the marshes -bordering the Barbate is excellent; francolins, bustards, plover, and -partridges, are to be met with on the table-lands to the westward of the -village; and the woods towards Alcalà and Vejer abound, at times, in -woodcocks. - -An adventure befel me during our short stay at Casa Vieja, which I -relate, as affording a ludicrous exemplification of the power of -flattery--an openness to which, that is to say, vanity, is certes the -great foible of the Spanish character. - -I had devoted one afternoon to a solitary ride to Vejer, (which town is -about eleven miles from Casa Vieja,) and had proceeded some little -distance on my way homewards, when, observing a very curious bird on a -marshy spot by the road-side, I dismounted--knowing my pony would not -stand fire--to take a shot at it. The gun missed fire, as I expected it -would; for, in consequence of its owner not having been able to -discharge it during the whole morning, I had lent him mine to visit the -snipe-marsh, and taken his to bear me company on my ride. The explosion -of the detonating cap was enough, however, to frighten my pony; he -started--jerked the bridle off my arm--and, finding himself free, -trotted away towards Casa Vieja. - -I ran after him for some distance, fondly hoping that the tempting green -herbage on the road-side would induce him to stop and taste, but my -accelerated speed had only the effect of quickening his; from a trot he -got into a canter, from a canter into a gallop; and, panting and -perspiring, I was soon obliged to abandon the chase, and trust that the -animal's natural sagacity would take him back to his stable. - -I had long lost sight of the runaway--for a thick wood soon screened him -from my view,--and had arrived within four miles of Casa Vieja, when I -met a party of very suspicious-looking characters, who, under the -pretence of being itinerant _wine-merchants_, were carrying contraband -goods about the country. They were all very noisy; all, seemingly, very -tipsy; and most of them armed with guns and knives. - -The van was led by a fat Silenus-looking personage, clothed in a shining -goatskin, and seated on a stout ass, between two well-filled skins of -wine; who saluted me with a very gracious wave of the hand, evidently to -save himself the trouble of speaking; but his followers greeted me with -the usual "_Vaya usted con Dios_;" to which one wag added, in an -undertone, "_y sin caballo_,"[116]--a piece of wit that put them all on -the grin. - -Regardless of their joke, I was about to make enquiries concerning my -pony, which it was evident they knew something about, when I discovered -a stout fellow, bringing up the rear of the party, astride of the -delinquent. Considering the disparity of force, and aware of the -unserviceable condition of my weapon, I thought it best to be remarkably -civil, so informing the gentleman riding my beast that I was its owner, -and extremely obliged to him for arresting the fugitive's course, I -requested he would only give himself the further trouble of dismounting, -and putting me in possession of my property. - -This, however, he positively refused to do. "How did he know I was the -owner? It might be so, and very possibly was, but I must go with him to -Vejer, and make oath to the fact before _la Justicia_." This, I said, -was out of the question: it was evident that the horse was mine, since I -had claimed him the moment I had seen him; and as, by his own admission, -he had found the animal, he must have done so out of my sight, since we -were now in a thick wood. If, I added, he chose to return with me to -Casa Vieja, the _Padre_, at whose house I was staying, would convince -him of the truth of my statement, and I would remunerate him for his -trouble. But I argued in vain! "If," he replied, "I felt disposed to -give him an _onza_,[117] he would save _me_ further trouble, but -otherwise justice must take its course." - -I remarked that the _haca_ was not worth much more than a doubloon. -"No!" exclaimed one of the party, jumping off his mule, thrusting his -hand into his belt, and producing _two_, "I'll give you these without -further bargaining." - -This occasioned a laugh at my expense. I turned it off, however, by -telling my friend, that if he would bring his money to Gibraltar we -might possibly deal; but, as I had occasion for my pony to carry me back -there, I could not at that moment conveniently part with him. - -There seemed but slight chance, however, of my recovering my pony -without trudging back to Vejer; and, probably, they would have ridden -off, and laughed at me, after proceeding half way; or by paying a -handsome ransom, which I was, in fact, unable to do, having only the -value of a few shillings about me. - -The dispute was getting warm, and my patience exhausted; for vain were -my representations that the _haca could_ belong to no one else--that the -saddle, bridle, and even the very _tail_ of the animal, were all -English. The Don kept his seat, and coolly asked, whether I thought -they could not make as good saddles, and cut as short tails, in Spain? - -The party had halted during this altercation, and old Silenus, who, by -his dress and position, seemed to be the head of the _firm_, had taken -no part in the dispute. He appeared, indeed, to be so drowsy, as to be -quite unconscious of what was passing. I determined, however, to make an -appeal to him, and summoning the best Spanish I could muster to my aid, -called upon him as a Spanish _hidalgo_, a man of honour, and a person of -sense, as his appearance bespoke, to see justice done me. - -He had heard, I continued, in fact he had _seen_, how the case stood; -and was it to be believed that a foreigner travelling in Spain--perhaps -the most enlightened country in the world--and trusting to the -well-known national probity, should be thus shamefully plundered? An -Englishman, above all others, who, having fought in the same ranks -against a common enemy, looked upon every individual of the brave -Spanish nation as a brother! Could a people so noted for honour, -chivalry, gratitude, and every known virtue, be guilty of so bare-faced -an imposition? - -Oh, "flattery! delicious essence, how refreshing art thou to nature! how -strongly are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side!" - -"_Baj' usted!_" grunted forth Silenus to the man mounted on my pony, -accompanying the words with a circular motion of his right arm towards -the earth. "_Baj' usted luego!_"[118] repeated the irate leader in a -louder tone, seeing that there was a disposition to resist his commands. -"Mount your horse, caballero," he continued, turning to me, "you have -not over-estimated the Spanish character." - -I did not require a second bidding, but, vaulting into the vacated -saddle, pushed my pony at once into a canter, replying to the man's -application for something for his trouble, by observing, that I did not -reward people for merely obeying the orders of their superiors; and, -kissing my hand to the fat old Satyr, rode off, amidst the laughter -occasioned by the discomfiture of the dismounted knight. - -On the morning fixed for our departure from Casa Vieja, Damien came to -us at a very early hour--a smile breaking through an assumed cloudy -expression of countenance--to report that the Barbate was so swollen by -the rain which had fallen without cessation during the night, as to be -no longer fordable: "_Nous pouvons demeurer encore trois ou quatre -jours_," he added, "_car il nous reste de quoi manger--du thé, du sucre, -du jambon, un bon morceau de bouilli de rosbif, et autres bagatelles; et -comme il fait beau temps à présent, puede ser que havra una entrada de -gallinetas esta noche--no es verdad Señor Padre?_"[119] turning to the -priest, who had followed him into the room. - -We were prepared for this contingency, however, and, stating that we -_must_ go, signified our intention of returning home by way of Alcalà de -los Gazules. Damien was horror-struck. "_Corpo di Bacco! Messieurs, -celle là est la plus mauvaise route du pays! è infestata di cattivissima -gente, ad ogni passo. No es verdad, Don Diego, que esa trocha de Alcalà -allà 'se llama el camino del infierno!_" "_Si, si_," replied the -priestly lodging-house keeper with a nod, "_tan verdad como la Santa -Escritura._"[120] - -Finding, however, that we were bent on departing, Don Diego went to make -his bill out; and Damien, now truly alarmed, proposed that, at all -events, we should take the shorter and more practicable route homewards, -by way of Vejer. But the name of the other had taken our fancy, and -orders were given accordingly, our departure being merely postponed -until the afternoon; for, as it would be necessary to sleep at Alcalà, -which is but nine miles from Casa Vieja, we agreed to have another brush -at the snipes ere leaving the place. - -In the afternoon we set out. At two miles from Casa Vieja the road -crosses a tributary stream to the Barbate, which reached up to our -saddle-girths, and then traverses some wooded hills for about an equal -distance. The rest of the way is over an extensive flat. - -Little is seen of Alcalà but an old square tower, and the ruined walls -of its Moorish castle, in approaching it on this side. The town is built -on a rocky peninsulated eminence, which, protruding from a ridge of -sierra that overlooks the place to the east, stretches about a mile in a -southerly direction, and, excepting along the narrow neck that connects -it with this mountain-range, is every where extremely difficult of -access. A road, however, winds up to the town by a steep ravine on the -south-eastern side of the rugged eminence; and a good approach has also -been made, though with much labour, at its northern extremity. The river -Barbate washes the western side of the mound, and across it, and -somewhat above the town--which is huddled together along the northern -crest of the ridge--a solid stone bridge presents itself, where the -roads from Casa Vieja, Medina Sidonia, and Xeres, concentrate. - -The ascent from the bridge, as I have mentioned, is good, but very -steep. The position of the town is most formidable; its walls, however, -are all levelled; and, of the castle, the square tower, or keep, alone -remains. The streets are narrow, but not so steep as we expected to find -them, and they are remarkably well paved. The houses are poor, though -some trifling manufactories of cloths and tanneries give the place a -thriving look. Its population amounts to about 9000 souls. - -_This_ Alcalà receives its distinctive name of "_los Gazules_" (i.e. the -Castle of the Gazules), from a tribe of Moors so called; but what Roman -city stood here is a mere matter of conjecture. - -The inn afforded but indifferent accommodation; but our host and hostess -were obliging people, and very good-naturedly made over to us the olla -prepared for their own supper. It was a fine specimen of the culinary -art; the savoury odour alone, that exuded from the bubbling stew, drew a -smile from Damien's unusually lugubrious countenance; and, on afterwards -witnessing the justice we did to its merits, he kindly wished--with a -doubt-implying compression of the lips--that we might have as good an -appetite to enjoy as good a supper on the following night. - -We set out at daybreak, accompanied by a guide, though, I think, we -could have dispensed with his services. The road enters the Serranía, -immediately on leaving Alcalà, taking an easterly direction, and -ascends for five miles by a rock-bound valley, partially under -cultivation, and watered by several streams, along which mills are -thickly scattered. On leaving them behind, the country becomes very wild -and desolate; the mountains ahead appear quite impracticable; and, long -ere we reached their base, the Piedmontese march had several times -resounded through the rocky gorges that encompassed us. - -At length we began to scramble up towards a conical pinnacle, called _El -Peñon de Sancho_,[121] which presents a perpendicular face, to the -south-west, of some hundreds of feet, and whose white cap, standing out -from the dark sierra behind, is a landmark all along the coast from -Cipiona to Cape Trafalgar. - -We soon attained a great elevation, crossing a pass between the _Peñon -de Sancho_ and the main sierra on our left. The view, looking back -towards Cadiz, is magnificent, and the scenery for the next four miles -continues to be of the most splendid kind, the road being conducted -along the side of the great sierra _Monteron_, and by the pass of _La -Brocha_ to the sierra _Cantarera_. - -The road is by no means so bad as, from the name it bears, we were -prepared to expect; in fact, there are many others in the Serranía of a -far more infernal character. After riding about four hours--a distance -of twelve miles--we reached a verdant little vale, enclosed on all sides -by rude mountains, wherein the Celemin takes its rise, and whence it -wends its way through a deep and thickly wooded ravine to the south. -This gullet is called the _Garganta de los Estudientes_, from the -circumstance, as our guide informed us, of some scholars having ventured -down it who never afterwards were heard of--to which story Damien -listened with great dismay. - -We halted at this delightful spot for half an hour, as well to breathe -our horses as to examine the contents of Damien's _alforjas_, who took -his meal, pistol in hand, for fear of a surprise. Continuing our -journey, we had to traverse some more very difficult country, the views -from which were now towards Ximena, Casares, Gibraltar, and the -Mediterranean; including an occasional peep of Castellar, as we advanced -to the eastward. - -At four miles and a half from our resting-place, the road branches into -two, the left proceeding to Ximena (five miles and a half), the other -leading toward Estepona, and the towns bordering the Mediterranean. -Taking the latter path, in about two hours we reached the river -Sogarganta, along the right bank of which is conducted the main road -from Ximena to Gibraltar. - -Damien's countenance brightened on his once more finding himself in "_un -pays reconnu_," and, turning joyfully into the well-known track, he -struck up one of his most _scherzosa_ arias; the heretofore dreaded -_Boca de Leones_ and Almoraima forest (which we had yet to pass), being -robbed of their terrors by the superior dangers we had safely -surmounted; and, in the words of the favourite poet of his country, - - _"Dopo sorte si funesta_ - _Sarà placida quest alma_ - _E godrà--tornata in calma--_ - _I perigli rammentar."_ - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - DEPARTURE FOR MADRID--CORDON DRAWN ROUND THE CHOLERA--RONDA--ROAD - TO CORDOBA--TEBA--ERRONEOUS POSITION OF THE PLACE ON THE SPANISH - MAPS--ITS LOCALITY AGREES WITH THAT OF ATEGUA, AS DESCRIBED BY - HIRTIUS, AND THE COURSE OF THE RIVER GUADALJORCE WITH THAT OF THE - SALSUS--ROAD TO CAMPILLOS--THE ENGLISH-LOVING INNKEEPER AND HIS - WIFE--AN ALCALDE'S DINNER SPOILT--FUENTE DE PIEDRA--ASTAPA--PUENTE - DON GONZALO--RAMBLA--CORDOBA--MEETING WITH AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. - - -The next and last excursion of which I purpose extracting some account -from my notebook, was commenced with the intention of proceeding from -Gibraltar to Madrid, late in the autumn of the year 1833; at which time, -the cholera having broken out in various parts of the kingdom of -Seville, it was necessary to "shape a course" that should not subject my -companion and self to the purifying process of a lazaret; a rigid -quarantine system having been adopted by the other kingdoms bordering -the infected territory. - -We hired three horses for the journey; that is to say, for any portion -of it we might choose to perform on horseback: two for ourselves, and -one to carry our portmanteaus, as well as the _mozo_ charged with their -care and our guidance. - -We found, on enquiry, that by avoiding two or three towns lying upon the -road, we could reach Cordoba without deviating much from the direct -route to that city, whence we purposed continuing our journey to the -capital by the diligence. We proceeded accordingly to Ronda, which place -being in the kingdom of Granada, was open to us; and thither I will at -once transport my readers, the road to it having already been fully -described. After sojourning a couple of days at the little capital of -the Serranía, comforting my numerous old and kind friends with the -opinion (which the event, I was happy to find, confirmed), that the new -enemy against which their country had to contend--the dreaded -cholera--would not cross the mountain barrier that defended their city; -we proceeded on our journey, taking the road to Puente Don Gonzalo, on -the Genil, thereby avoiding Osuna, which lay upon the direct road to -Cordoba, but in the infected district. - -In an hour from the time of our leaving Ronda, we crossed the rocky -gulley which has been noticed as traversing the fertile basin in which -the city stands, laterally, bearing the little river Arriate to irrigate -its western half, and in the course of another hour reached the northern -extremity of this fruitful district. The hills here offer an easy egress -from the rock-bound basin; but, though nature has left this one level -passage through the mountains, art has taken no advantage of it to -improve the state of the road, for a viler _trocha_ is not to be met -with, even in the rudest part of the Serranía. - -The view of the rich plain and dark battlements of Ronda is remarkably -fine. - -After winding amongst some round-topped hills, the road at length -reaches a narrow rocky pass, which closes the view of the vale of Ronda, -and a long deep valley opens to the north, the mouth of which appears -closed by a barren mountain, crowned by the old castle of _Teba_. - -The path now undergoes a slight improvement, and, after passing some -singular table-rocks, and leaving the little village of _La Cueva del -Becerro_ on the left, reaches the _venta de Virlan_. We, however, had -inadvertently taken a track that, inclining slightly to the right, led -us into the bottom of the valley, and in about four miles (from the -pass) brought us to the miserable little village of _Serrato_. The -proper road, from which we had strayed, keeps along the side of the -hills, about half a mile off, on the left; and upon it, and three miles -from the first venta, is another, called _del Ciego_. Yet a little -further on, but situated on an elevated ridge overlooking the valley, is -the little town of _Cañete la Real_. - -From Serrato our road led us to the old castle of Ortoyecar, ere -rejoining the direct route; which it eventually does, about a mile -before reaching the foot of the mountain of Teba. - -This singular feature is connected by a very low pass with the chain of -sierra on the left, and, stretching from west to east about -three-quarters of a mile, terminates precipitously along the river -_Guadaljorce_. The road, crossing over the pass, and leaving on the -right a steep paved road, that zig-zags up the mountain, winds round to -the west, keeping under the precipitous sides of the ridge, and avoiding -the town of Teba, which, perched on the very summit, but having a -northern aspect, can only be seen when arrived at the north side of the -rude mound; and there another winding road offers the means of access to -the place. - -The base of the mountain is, on this side, bathed by a little rivulet -that flows eastward to the Guadaljorce, called the _Sua de Teba_. It is -erroneously marked on the Spanish maps as running on the south side of -the ridge, but the only stream which is there to be met with, is a -little rivulet that takes its rise near Becerro and waters the valley by -which we had descended; and it does not approach within a mile of Teba, -but sweeps round to the eastward a little beyond the old castle of -Ortoyecar, and discharges itself into the river Ardales. - -The deep-sunk banks and muddy bottom of the _Suda de Teba_, render it -impassable excepting at the bridge. This rickety structure is apparently -the same which existed in the time of Rocca, who, in his "Memoirs of the -War in Spain," gives a very spirited account of the military operations -of the French and _serranos_ in this neighbourhood. - -The locality of Teba is most faithfully described by that author; indeed -I know no one who has given so graphic an account of this part of Spain -generally. - -The ascent to the town on this (the northern) side, is yet more -difficult than that in the opposite direction; but the place will amply -repay the labour of a visit, for the view from it is extremely fine, and -the extensive ruins of its ancient defences, evidently of Roman -workmanship, are well worthy of observation. - -The position of Teba, with reference to other places in the -neighbourhood, and to the circumjacent country, is so inaccurately given -in all maps which I have seen, that the antiquaries seem quite to have -overlooked it as the probable site of _Ategua_, so celebrated for its -obstinate defence against Julius Cæsar. - -Morales--without the slightest grounds, as far as the description of the -country accords with the assumption--imagined _Ategua_ to have stood -where he maintains some ruins, "called by the country-people _Teba la -Vieja_," are to be seen between Castrò el Rio and Codoba; but, as I -pointed out in the case of Ronda, and Ronda _la Vieja_, it is absurd to -suppose that an _old Teba_ could ever have existed, since Teba itself is -a Roman town, and its present name a mere corruption of that which it -bore in times past. - -Other Spanish authors place _Ategua_ at Castro el Rio, some at Baena, -some elsewhere; but almost all appear anxious to fix its site near the -river Guadajoz, which they have determined, in their own minds, must be -the _Salsus_ mentioned by Hirtius. - -La Martinière, with his usual _inaccuracy_, says, that the Guadajoz -falls into the _Salado_: he should rather have said, that it is _formed_ -from the confluence of _various salados_; for, as I have elsewhere -observed, salado is a general term for all water-courses, and not the -name of a river.[122] - -It seems, however, probable, that the Romans gave the name _Salsus_ to -some river impregnated with salt, which many streams in this part of -Spain are; and since there is an extensive salt-lake still existing near -Alcaudete, on the very margin of the Guadajoz, that river has hastily -been concluded to be that of the Roman historian. But, it appears -strange, if the Guadajoz be the Salsus of Hirtius, that Pliny, when -describing the course of the Boetis, and the principal streams which -fell into it, should have omitted to mention that river, as being one of -its affluents; for the Salsus, from the recentness of the war between -Cæsar and the sons of Pompey, must have been much spoken of in Pliny's -time. - -But what, to me, proves most satisfactorily that the _Guadajoz_ is _not_ -the Salsus, is, that it so ill agrees with the minute description given -of the river by Hirtius himself;--for, in speaking of the Salsus he -says,[123] "It runs through the plains, and _divides_ them from the -mountains, which all lie upon the side of Ategua, at about two miles' -distance from the river;" and again, "But what proved principally -favourable to Pompey's design of drawing out the war, was the nature of -the country, (i. e. about Ategua) full of mountains, and extremely well -adapted to encampments;"[124] and, from what again follows, it is -evident that Ategua stood upon the summit of a mountain. - -Now the Guadajoz nowhere runs so as to _divide_ the plains from the -mountains. It _issues from_ the mountains of Alcalà Real, many miles -before reaching Castrò el Rio, and between that last-named town and -Cordoba, there is no ground that can be called mountainous. - -The country bordering the Guadajoz, in the lower part of its course, -differs as decidedly with the statement that the neighbourhood of Ategua -was "full of mountains," if we suppose the town to have stood anywhere -_below_ Castrò el Rio. - -It is again improbable that Ategua could have stood on the site of the -supposed _Teba la Vieja_, or any place in that neighbourhood, since it -is mentioned[125] as being a great provision dépôt of the Pompeians; -which would scarcely have been the case had it been within twenty miles -of the city of Cordoba. And again, it is not likely that Cæsar would -have commenced the campaign by laying siege to a place within such a -short distance of Cordoba, since the invested town might so readily have -received succour from that city, and his adversary would, by such a -step, have had the advantage of combining all his forces to attack him -during the progress of the siege. - -Again, another objection presents itself, namely, that Ategua is -represented as a particularly strong place,[126] which, from the nature -of the ground in that part of the country--that is, between Castrò el -Rio and Cordoba--no town could well have been; situation, rather than -art, constituting the strength of towns in those days. - -We will now return to Teba, the locality of which agrees infinitely -better with the account of Ategua given by Hirtius, whilst the River -_Guadaljorce_, which flows in its vicinity, answers perfectly his -description of the Salsus; for, along its right bank a plain extends all -the way to the Genil; on its left, "at two miles' distance," rises a -wall of Sierra; and the whole country, beyond, is "full of mountains, -all lying on the side of" Teba. That is to say, the mountain range -continues in the same direction, and possesses the same marked -character, although the Guadaljorce breaks through it ere reaching so -far west as Teba; for, by a vagary of nature, this stream quits the wide -plain of the Genil to throw itself into a rocky gorge, and after -describing a very tortuous course, gains, at length, the vale of Malaga. - -Now this very circumstance strikes me, on attentive consideration, as -tending rather to strengthen than otherwise the supposition that Teba -is Ategua; for Cæsar's army is not stated to have _crossed_ the Salsus -on its march from Cordoba to Ategua; from which we must conclude that -Ategua was on the _right_ bank of the river; whilst other circumstances -prove that the town was some distance from the river, and encompassed by -mountains. - -Pompey, however, following Cæsar from Cordoba, and proceeding to the -relief of Ategua, _crosses the Salsus_, and fixes his camp "on these -mountains (i. e. the mountains 'which all lie on the side of Ategua') -between Ategua and Ucubis, but within sight of both places," being, as -is distinctly said afterwards, separated from his adversary by the -Salsus. - -Thus, therefore, though his camp was on the same range of mountains as -Ategua, yet he was separated from that town by a river: a peculiarity, -in the formation of the ground, which suits the locality of Teba, but -would be difficult to make agree with any other place. - -The only very apparent objection to this hypothesis is, that Cæsar's -cavalry is mentioned as having, on one occasion, pursued the foraging -parties of his adversary "almost to the very walls of Codoba." But this -was when Pompey (after his first failure to relieve Ategua) had drawn -off his army towards Cordoba. It does not follow, therefore, that -Cæsar's troops pursued his adversary's parties from Ategua, though he -was still besieging that place, but it may rather be supposed that his -cavalry was sent after the enemy to harass them on their march, and -watch their future movements. - -One might, indeed, on equally good grounds, maintain that Ategua was -_within a day's march of Seville_; since, on Pompey's finally abandoning -the field, Hirtius says,[127] "the same day he decamped, (from Ucubis, -which was within sight of Ategua) and posted himself in an olive wood -over against Hispalis." - -With respect to this knotty point of distance it is further to be -observed, that on Cæsar's breaking up his camp from before Cordoba, his -march is spoken of as being _towards_ Ategua, implying that the two -places did not lie within a day's march of each other; and the -supposition that they were more than a few leagues apart is strengthened -by the place, and order in which Ategua is mentioned by the methodical -Pliny; viz., amongst the cities lying between the Boetis and the -Mediterranean Sea, and next in succession to _Singili_,[128] which, -doubtless, was on the southern bank of the Genil, towards Antequera. - -The Guadaljorce has as good claims to the name of _Salsus_, as any other -river in the country, since the mountains about Antequera, amongst -which it takes its rise, were in former days noted for the quantity of -salt they produced; and though the river Guadaljorce now carries its -name to the sea, yet, in the time of the Romans, such was not the case; -for, in those days, by whatever name that river may have been -distinguished, it was dropt on forming its junction with the Sigila, -(now the Rio Grande) in the _vega_ of Malaga, although, of the two, the -latter is the inferior stream. - -The fort of Ucubis, stated by Hirtius to have been destroyed by Cæsar, -we may suppose stood on the side of the mountains overlooking the Salsus -or Guadaljorce, towards Antequera; and it does not seem improbable that -that city is the _Soricaria_ mentioned by the same historian; for -_Anticaria_, though noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is not -amongst the cities of Boetica enumerated by Pliny. - -Teba was taken from the Moors by Alphonso XI., A.D. 1340. The -inhabitants are a savage-looking tribe, and boast of having kept the -French at bay during the whole period of the "war of independence."[129] - -There is a tolerable venta at the foot of the hill, near the bridge, at -which we baited our horses. The distance from Ronda to Teba is 21 miles; -from hence to Campillos is about six; the country is undulated, and -road good, crossing several brooks, some flowing eastward to the -Guadaljorce, others in the opposite direction to the Genil. - -Campillos is situated at the commencement of a vast track of perfectly -level country, that extends all the way to the river Genil. By some -strange mistake it is laid down in the Spanish maps due east of Teba, -whereas it is nearly north. It is four leagues (or about seventeen -miles) from Antequera, and five leagues from Osuna. It is a neat town, -clean, and well-paved, and contains 1000 _vecinos escasos_;[130] which -may be reckoned at 5000 souls, six being the number usually calculated -per _vecino_. - -Campillos lies just within the border of the kingdom of Seville, and -was, therefore, on forbidden ground; since, had we entered it, our clean -bills of health would have been thereby tainted. We were consequently -obliged to skirt round the town at a tether of several hundred yards. I -regretted this much, for the place contains an excellent _posada_, -bearing the--to Protestant ears--somewhat profane sign of "_Jesus -Nazarino_," and its keepers were old cronies of mine, our friendship -having commenced some years before under rather peculiar circumstances, -viz., in travelling from Antequera to Ronda, my horse met with an -accident which obliged me to halt for the night at Campillos. Leaving to -my servant the task of ordering dinner at the inn, I proceeded on foot -to examine the town, and gain, if possible, some elevated spot in its -vicinity whence I could obtain a good view of the country, being -desirous to correct the mistake before alluded to, in the relative -positions of Teba and Campillos on the maps. - -Having found a point suited to this purpose, from whence I could see -both Teba and the _Peñon de los Enamorados_, (a remarkable conical -mountain near Antequera,) I drew forth a pocket surveying compass, and -took the bearings of those two points, as well as of several other -conspicuous objects in the neighbourhood. - -These ill-understood proceedings caused the utmost astonishment to a -group of idlers, who, at a respectful distance, but with significant -nods and mysterious whisperings, were narrowly watching my operations. -These concluded, and the result of my observations committed to my -pocket-book, I took a slight outline sketch of the bold range of -mountains that stretches towards Granada, and returned to the inn. - -On my first arrival there, I had merely addressed the usual compliment -of the country to the innkeeper and his wife, and now, repeating my -salutation to the lady--who only was present--I seated myself at the -fire-place of the common apartment, and began writing in my pocket-book, -replying very laconically to her various attempts at conversation; and -at length obtaining no immediate answer to another endeavour to _draw me -out_, she said, addressing herself, "_no entiende_,"[131] and offered no -further interruptions to my scribbling. - -I confess to the practice of a little deceit in the matter, as my -answers certainly must have led her to believe that I was a very _tyro_ -at the Spanish vocabulary--a fancy in which I used often to indulge the -natives when I wished to shirk conversation. - -Soon afterwards the _Posadero_ came in, and a whispered communication -took place between him and his spouse, which gradually acquiring _tone_, -I at length was able to catch distinctly, and heard the following -conversation. - -"You are quite certain he does not understand Spanish?" said mine host. - -"Not a syllable," replied his helpmate. - -"He is about no good here, wife, that I can tell you." - -"There does not appear to be much mischief in him." - -"We must not trust to looks; I was at the chapel of the Rosario just -now, and he walked up there, took an instrument from his pocket, marked -down all the principal points of the country, and then drew them in that -little book he is now writing in ... are you quite sure he does not -understand Spanish?--I observed him smile just now." - -"_No tienes cuidado_,"[132] replied the wife; "I have tried him on all -points." - -"Depend upon it he is _mapeando el pais_,"[133] resumed the husband. - -"I think you ought forthwith to give notice of his doings to the -_Justicia_," answered the lady. - -"Ay, and lose a good customer by having him taken to prison!" rejoined -the patriotic innkeeper; "time enough to do that in the morning after he -has paid his bill; but as to the propriety of giving information wife, I -agree with you perfectly." - -"He must be one of the rascally _gavachos_ from Cadiz," (a French -garrison at this time occupied that fortress,) "but what right has he to -take his notes of our _pueblo_?[134] I thought of questioning the -servant, who does speak a few words of Spanish, before he took the -horses to the smithy, but Don Guillelmo came in and put it out of my -head. Suppose I make another attempt to find out from himself what -brings him here?" - -"Do so," said her lord and master; and, with this permission, she -advanced towards me with a very gracious smile, and _articulating_ every -syllable most distinctly, in the hope of making her interrogation -perfectly intelligible, "begged to know if my worship was a Frenchman." - -"_Yo_," said I, pointing to myself, as if I did not clearly understand -her; "_nix_." - -"_Ingles?_" demanded she, returning to the charge. - -"_Si_," replied I, with a nod affirmative. - -"_Valga mi Dios!_" exclaimed she, turning to her husband; "he is -English! how delighted I am! what a time it is since I saw an -Englishman! how can we make him comfortable?" - -"_Poco a poco_,"[135] observed the inn-keeper--"English or French he has -no business to be _mapeando_ our country, and the Alcalde ought to know -of it." - -"_Disparate!_"[136] exclaimed the wife; "what does his _mapeando_ -signify if he is an Englishman? are they not our best friends?[137] Is -it not the same as if a Spaniard were doing it, only that it will be -better done?" - -"Very true," admitted mine host; "they have, indeed, been our friends, -and will soon again, I trust, give us a proof of their friendship, by -assisting to drive these French scoundrels across the Pyrenees, and -allowing us to settle our own differences." - -Pocketing my memorandum book, I now rose from my seat and addressing the -landlady, "_con gentil donayre y talante_,"[138] as Don Quijote says, -asked, in the best Castillian I could put together, when it was probable -I should have dinner, as from having been the greater part of the -morning on horseback, I was not only very hungry, but should be glad to -retire early to my bed. - -Never were two people more astonished than mine host and his spouse at -this address. Had I detected them in the act of pilfering my saddlebags, -they could not have looked more guilty. They offered a thousand -apologies, but seemed to think the greatest affront they had put upon me -was that of mistaking me for a Frenchman. - -"I ought at once to have known you were no braggart _gavacho_," said the -landlord, "by your not making a noise on entering the house--calling for -every thing and abusing every body--How do you think one of these -gentry, who came into Spain as _friends_, to tranquillize the country, -behaved to our _Alcalde_? The Frenchman wanted a billet, and finding the -office shut, went to the _Alcalde's_ house for it. The _Alcalde_ was at -dinner with a couple of friends; he begged the officer to be seated, -saying he would send for the _Escribano_ and have a billet made out for -him--'And am I to be kept waiting for your clerk?' said the Frenchman; -'a pretty joke, indeed.' 'He will be here in an instant,' said the -_Alcalde_; 'pray have a little patience, and be seated.' 'Patience, -indeed!' exclaimed the other; 'make the billet out directly yourself, or -I'll pull the house about your ears.' '_Juicio!_ señor,' replied the -Mayor; 'do you not see that I am at dinner?' 'What are you at _now_?' -said the Frenchman; and, laying hold of one corner of the tablecloth, he -drew it, plates, dishes, glasses, and every thing, off the table. This -is the way our French _friends_ behave to us!" - -I now satisfied the worthy couple that their fears of mischief arising -from my "_mapeando el pais_," were quite groundless; and mine host -showed great intelligence in comprehending what I wished to correct in -the Spanish map; the error in which he saw at once, when I pointed to -the setting sun; his wife standing by and exclaiming "_que gente tan -fina los Ingleses_!"[139] - -No advantage was taken of the knowledge of _my_ country in making out -_the bill_, and I departed next morning with their prayers that I might -travel in company with all the saints in the calendar. - -The direct road from Campillos to Cordoba is by way of La Rodd; but, in -the present instance, it was necessary to avoid that town, and proceed -to _La Fuente de Piedra_, which is situated a few miles to the eastward, -and without the sanitory circle drawn round the cholera. - -The distance from Campillos to this place is two long leagues, which may -be reckoned nine miles. - -_La Fuente de Piedra_ is a small village, of about sixty houses, -surrounded with olive-grounds, and abounding in crystal springs. The -medicinal virtues of one of these sources (which rises in the middle of -the place) led to the building of the village; and the painful disease -for which in especial this fountain is considered a sovereign cure, has -given its name to the place. We arrived very late in the evening, and -found the _posada_ most miserable. - -On leaving _La Fuente de Piedra_ we took the road to _Puente Don -Gonzalo_, and at about three miles from the village crossed the great -road from Granada to Seville, which is practicable for carriages the -greater part, but _not all_ the way; a little beyond this the _Sierra de -Estepa_ rises on the left of the route, to the height of several hundred -feet above the plain. The town of Estepa is not seen, being on the -western side of the hill; it is supposed to be the Astapa of the -Romans, the horrible destruction of which is related by Livy. - -The inhabitants, on the approach of Scipio, aware of the exasperated -feelings of the Romans towards them, piled all their valuables in the -centre of the forum, placed their wives and children upon the top, and -leaving a few of their young men to set fire to the pile in the event of -their defeat, rushed out upon the Roman army. They were all killed, the -pile was lighted, and a heap of ashes was the only trophy of their -conquerors. - -The Roman historian says, the people of Astapa "delighted in robberies." -I wonder if he thought his countrymen exempt from similar propensities! - -In three hours we reached Cazariche. The road merely skirts the village, -being separated from it by an abundant stream, which, serving to -irrigate numerous gardens and orchards, renders the last league of the -ride very agreeable, which otherwise, from the flatness of the country -to the eastward, would be uninteresting. This rivulet is called _La -Salada_; but its volume is far too small to make one suppose for a -moment that it is the _Salsus_. - -At five miles from Cazariche, keeping along the left bank of the Salada -the whole distance, but not crossing it, as marked on the maps, the road -reaches Miragenil. This is a small village, situated on the southern -bank of the Genil, and communicating, by means of a bridge, with _Puente -Don Gonzalo_. - -The river here forms the division between the kingdoms of Seville and -Cordoba; and the two governments not having agreed as to the superior -merits of wood or stone, one-half the bridge is built of the former, the -other half of the latter material. - -Puente Don Gonzalo stands on a steep acclivity, commanding the bridge -and river. It is a town of some consideration, containing several -manufactories of household furniture, numerous mills, and a population -of 6000 souls. - -Florez, on the authority of a _stone_ found _near_ Cazariche (which he -calls Casaliche), whereon the word VENTIPO was inscribed, supposed -_Ventisponte_,[140] to have been situated somewhere in the vicinity of -Puente Don Gonzalo. But if this stone had been _carried_ to Cazariche, -it may have been taken there from any other point of the compass as well -as from that in which Puente Don Gonzalo is situated. - -Other authorities suppose this town to be on the site of Singilis; but -that place, as already stated, has been pretty clearly proved to have -been nearer Antequera. - -The "_provechasos aguas del divino Genil_,"[141] after cleansing the -town of Puente Don Gonzalo, are turned to the best possible account, in -irrigating gardens and turning mill-wheels; and the road to Cordoba, -after proceeding for about a mile along the verdant valley that -stretches to the westward, ascends the somewhat steep bank which pens in -the stream to the north, and for four hours wanders over a flat -uninteresting country to Rambla; passing, in the whole distance of -fifteen miles, but two running streams, three farm-houses, and the -miserable village of Montalban. This latter is distant about a mile and -a half from Rambla. - -We saw but little of this town, having arrived late at night, and -departed from it at an early hour on the following morning; but it is of -considerable size, and situated on the north side of a steep hill. We -found the inn excessively dirty and exorbitantly dear; indeed it may be -laid down as a general rule with Spanish as well as Swiss inns, that the -charges are high in proportion to the _badness_ of the fare and -accommodation. - -The ground in the vicinity of Rambla is planted chiefly with vines, and -but two short leagues to the eastward is situated Montilla, where, in -the estimation of Spaniards, the best wine of the province is grown. It -is extremely dry; and, as I have mentioned before, gives its name to the -Sherry called _Amontillado_. - -Rambla is just midway between Puente Don Gonzalo and Cordoba, viz. -sixteen miles from each. The country is hilly, and mostly under tillage, -but where its cultivators reside puzzles one to guess, as there is not a -house on the road in the whole distance, and but two towns visible from -it, viz. Montemayor and Fernan Nuñez, both within six miles of Rambla. - -The first-named of these places disputes with Montilla the honour of -being the Roman city of _Ulía_, the only inland town of Boetica that -held out for Cæsar against the sons of Pompey, previous to his arrival -in the country.[142] It appears doubtful[143] whether _Ulía_ is -mentioned by Pliny, but it is noticed in the Roman Itinerary (_Gadibus -Cordubam_) as eighteen miles from Cordoba, a distance that agrees better -with Montilla than Montemayor; indeed the former almost declares itself -in the very name it yet bears, _Montilla_; the double _l_ in Spanish -having the liquid sound of _li_, making it a corruption of _Mont Ulía_. - -At about four miles from Cordoba the Guadajoz, or river of Castro, is -crossed by fording, and between it and the Guadalquivír the ground is -broken by steep hills. The road falls into the _Arrecife_ from Seville, -on reaching the suburb on the left bank of the river. - -We took up our abode at the _Posada de la Mesangería_; a particularly -comfortable house, as Spanish inns go, that had been opened for the -accommodation of the diligence travellers since my former visit to the -city. The _patio_, ornamented with a bubbling fountain of icy-cold -water, and shaded with a profusion of all sorts of rare creepers and -flowering shrubs, afforded a cool retreat at all hours of the day; -which, though we were in the month of October, was very acceptable. - -Whilst seated at breakfast, under the colonnade that encompasses the -court, the morning after our arrival, the master of the inn waited upon -us to know if we required a _valet de place_ during our sojourn at -Cordoba, as a very intelligent old man, who spoke French like a native, -and was in the habit of attending upon _caballeros forasteros_[144] in -the above-named capacity, was then in the house, and begged to place his -services at our disposition. - -I replied, that having before visited his city, I considered myself -sufficiently acquainted with its _sights_ to be able to dispense with -this, otherwise useful, personage's attendance; but our host seemed so -desirous that we should employ the old man, "We might have little -errands to send him upon--some purchases to make; in fact, we should -find the Tio Blas so useful in any capacity, and it would be such an -act of charity to employ him,"--that we finally acceded to his proposal, -and the _Tio_ was accordingly ushered in. - -He was a tall, and, though emaciated, still erect old man, whose -tottering gait, and white and scanty hairs, would have led to the belief -that his years had already exceeded the number usually allotted to the -life of man, but that his deep-sunk eyes were shaded by dark and -beatling brows, and yet sparkled occasionally with the fire of youth; -proving that hardships and misfortunes had brought him somewhat -prematurely to the brink of the grave. - -It struck me at the first glance that I had seen him before, but when, -and under what circumstances, I could not recall to my recollection. -After some conversation, as to what had been his former occupation, &c., -he remarked, addressing himself to me, "I think, _Caballero_, that this -is not the first time we have met--many years have elapsed since--many -(to me) most eventful years, and they have wrought great changes in my -appearance. And, indeed, some little difference is perceptible also in -yours, for you were a mere boy then; but, still, time has not laid so -heavy a hand on you as on the worn-out person of him who stands before -you, and in whom you will, doubtless, have difficulty in recognizing the -reckless _Blas Maldonado_!" - -Time had, indeed, effected great changes in him, morally as well as -physically; for not only had the powerful, well-built man, dwindled into -a tottering, emaciated driveller, but the daring, impious bandit, had -become a weak and superstitious dotard. - -My curiosity strongly piqued to learn how changes so wonderful had been -brought about, we immediately engaged the _Tio_ to attend upon us; and, -during the few days circumstances compelled us to remain at Cordoba, I -elicited from him the following account of the events which had -chequered his extraordinary career since we had before met. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -HISTORY OF BLAS EL GUERRILLERO--_continued._ - - "_La rueda de la fortuna anda mas lista que una rueda de molino, y - que los que ayer estaban en pinganitos, hoy estan por el - suelo._"[145]-- - DON QUIJOTE. - - -It was at Castrò el Rio that we last met Don Carlos; it is now eleven -years since,--rather more, but still I have a perfect recollection of -it. My memory, indeed, is the only thing that has served me well through -life. Friends have abandoned--riches corrupted--success has -hardened--ambition disappointed me; and now, as you see, my very limbs -are failing me, but memory--excepting for one short period, when my -brain was affected--has never abandoned me. I cannot flee from it--it -pursues me incessantly: it is as impossible to get rid of, as of one's -shadow in the sun's rays, and seems indeed, like it, to become more -perfect, as I too proceed downward in my rapidly revolving course. - -Alas! it often brings to mind the words of my good father, addressed, -whilst I was yet a child, to my too-indulgent mother:--"If we consult -the happiness of our son, we must not bring him up above the condition -to which it has pleased Providence to call him." It was my unhappy lot, -however, to become an _educated pauper_. I grew up discontented, and -became a profligate: I coveted riches, to feed my unnatural cravings, -and became criminal: I scoffed at religion, and came to ridicule the -idea of a future state of rewards and punishments. And as I thus brought -myself to believe that I was not an accountable creature, nothing -thenceforth restrained me from committing any act which gratified my -passions. What is man, I argued, that I should not despoil him, if he -possess that which I covet? What should deter me from taking his life, -if he stand between me and that which I desire? _Crime_ is a mere -word,--a term for any act which certain _men_, for their mutual -advantage, have agreed shall meet with punishment. But what right have -those men to say, this is just, and that is unlawful? - -Such were my feelings at the time I met and related to you the -adventures of my early life; adventures of which I was then not a -little proud, though, nevertheless, I slurred over some little matters -that I thought would not raise me in your opinion. Well was it for me -that I was not cut off in the midst of my iniquitous career, but have, -on the contrary, been allowed time, by penance and prayer, to make what -atonement is in my power for my former sinful life. - -My journey to Castrò had been undertaken at the desire of the political -chief of ----, for the purpose of watching the proceedings of the Royal -Regiment of Carbineers, which, as you may remember, was at that time -quartered there. - -I soon, under pretence of being a stanch royalist, wormed myself into -the confidence of the officers, and learnt that they were in -communication with the King's Guards at Madrid, and were plotting a -counter-revolution, to reestablish Ferdinand on a despotic throne. The -advice I gave them, and the information I furnished the government, led -to the unconnected and premature developement of their treason, and to -the vigorous steps which were taken by the executive to meet and put it -down. - -These, however, are matters of history, on which it is unnecessary to -dwell; suffice it, therefore, to say, that my good services on the -occasion were rewarded by promotion to a more lucrative _corregimiento_. -I did not long enjoy this new post, for, on the French columns crossing -the Pyrenees the following spring, I threw up my civil employment, and, -collecting a small band of _guerrillas_, flew to the defence of my -country; joining the traitor Ballasteros, then entrusted with the -command of the army of the south. - -The deplorable events which followed deprived me of a home; but, leaving -my wife and infant son (the only child, of three, whom it had pleased -Providence to spare us) at the secluded little town of Cañete la Real, -perched high up in the Sierra de Terril, I wandered about the country -with a few adherents, seeking opportunities of harassing the French -during their operations before Cadiz. - -They afforded us no opportunities, however, of attacking their convoys -with any chance of success, and my followers could not be brought to -engage in any daring enterprise without the prospect of booty. The -feeling of patriotism appeared, indeed, to be extinct in the breasts of -Spaniards, and after a few weeks my band, which was nowhere well -received, having been induced to commit excesses in some of the villages -situated in the open country about Arcos, several parties of royalist -volunteers were formed to proceed in quest of us; and so disheartened -were my followers, that I shortly found my band reduced to a dozen -desperadoes, who, like myself, had no hopes of obtaining pardon. - -We betook ourselves, therefore, to the innermost recesses of the Ronda -mountains, moving constantly from place to place, as well to harass our -pursuers, as to avoid being surrounded by them; and such is the -intricacy of the country, and so numerous are the rocky fastnesses of -the smugglers (from whom we were always sure of a good reception), that -we readily baffled all pursuit, and exhausted the patience of our -enemies; and, at length, seizing a favourable opportunity of inflicting -a severe loss upon one of their parties, the patriotic zeal of these -gentry so completely evaporated, that we were left in the undisturbed -command of the Serranía. - -All hope of being serviceable to our country at an end, we were -compelled, as a last resource, to adopt the only calling to which we -were suited, viz., that of highway robbers; and for several months every -road between Gibraltar and Malaga, and the inland towns, was, in turn, -subject to our predaceous visits. - -On one occasion a dignitary of the church, whose name and particular -station it would not be prudent of me to mention, fell into our hands. -His attendants, who were of a militant order, defended their master with -great obstinacy. They were eventually overpowered, however, but several -of my men having been badly wounded in the scuffle, were so -exasperated, that they determined to shoot all those who had fallen into -our hands, as well as the ---- himself; who, though he had not taken an -active part in the combat, had made no attempt to restrain his -pugnacious adherents. - -As soon as our prisoners had been secured, therefore, the portly -ecclesiastic was directed to descend from his sleek mule, deliver up his -money, and prepare for death. He inveighed in eloquent terms at our -barbarity, pointed out to us the iniquity of our proceedings, the -probability of a speedy punishment overtaking us in this life, and the -certainty of having to endure everlasting torments in that which is to -come. But it was to no purpose; indeed, it only tempted my miscreants to -prolong his misery; and, having tied him to a tree, they insisted upon -his blessing them all round, ere they proceeded to shoot him. - -"My children," said the worthy ----, "my blessing, from the tone in which -you ask it, would serve you little. My life is in the hands of my Maker, -not in your's; and if it be His pleasure to make you the instruments of -his divine will, so be it. I am prepared; death has no terrors for me; -and may you obtain _His_ forgiveness for the sin you are about to -commit, as readily as I grant you _mine_. Now, I am ready;" and, looking -upwards to the seat of all power and grace, he paid no further -attention to their scoffing. - -"Now Señor Bias," said one of my men, "since he will give us no more -sport, give the word, and let us finish his business." - -"Hold!" exclaimed one of the ----'s suite, addressing me, "Is your name -Blas Maldonado?" - -"It is: wherefore?" - -"Because, if such be the case, in his Excellency's _portefuille_ you -will find a letter addressed to you." - -I forthwith proceeded to examine its contents, and, true enough, found a -letter bearing my address. It was from my old friend _Jacobo_, -requesting, should the ---- fall into my hands, that I would suffer him -to pass without molestation, in return for services conferred on him, -which would be explained at our next meeting.[146] - -_Jacobo_, though we had not met for many months, I knew was in that part -of the country, following the honest calling of a _Contrabandista_, and -I felt, in honour, bound to grant this request of my old friend and ever -faithful lieutenant. My followers, however, objected strongly to spare -either the ----, or his attendants, and a violent altercation ensued; -for, I declared that my life must be taken ere that of any one of our -prisoners. - -Four only of the band sided with me, and we had already assumed a -hostile attitude, when the ---- called earnestly upon me to desist. - -"Peril not your sinful souls!" he exclaimed, "by hurrying each other, -unrepented of your manifold sins, into the presence of an offended -Maker.--Take our gold--take every thing we possess; and if those -misguided men cannot be satisfied without blood, let mine flow to save -the lives of these, my followers, who have stronger ties than I to bind -them to this world." - -My hot temper, little used to contradiction, would listen, however, to -no terms; my word was pledged that the ---- and his attendants should go -free, and my word was never given in vain. I persisted, therefore, in -declaring that those must pass over my body who would touch a hair of -the ----'s head, or take a m_aravedi_ from his purse.... If he chose to -make them a present after he had been released, he was his own master to -do so. - -This delicate hint was eagerly seized by the worthy dignitary's -attendants, and a large sum of money was distributed amongst the gang, -in which I declined sharing. The ----, meanwhile, remounted his mule, -and, calling me to his side, placed a valuable ring upon my finger. "I -am indebted to you for my life, Blas Maldonado," he said, with the most -lively emotion; "but that is little; I owe to you--what I value -infinitely more--the safety of these faithful attendants, whose -attachment had led them, like Simon Peter, to defend their Pastor. Such -debts cannot be cancelled by any gift I can bestow, and it is not with -that view I offer you this bauble, but a day may come when you may need -an intercessor--if so, return this ring to me by some faithful member of -our holy church, and let me know how I can serve you: or--which is -probable, considering my age and infirmities--should I, ere that comes -to pass, have been called from this world to give an account of my -stewardship; then, fear not to lay it at the foot of Fernando's throne, -and, in the name of its donor, beg for mercy. I trust you may not have -occasion to require its services, for my prayers shall not be wanting -for your conversion from your present evil ways--my blessing be upon -you--farewell." - -How powerful is the influence of religion! Whilst listening to the -worthy ----'s words, my head, which since the days of my childhood no -act of devotion had ever led me to uncover, was bared as if by instinct; -and, to receive the blessing he had called down upon me, I humbled -myself to the earth! - -Although those of the band who had so vehemently opposed sparing -the ----'s life had finally been satisfied with the _donation_ bestowed -upon them, yet their disobedience made me determine on ejecting them -from my band, and accordingly, accompanied only by my four supporters in -the late dispute, I proceeded to my old rendezvous, Montejaque, hoping -to pick up some recruits. I purposed, also, availing myself of the first -favourable opportunity to remove my wife and child to that place, it -being more conveniently situated, and offering greater security than -even Cañete la Real. - -We had been there but a few days, when I received a letter without a -signature, but in the well-known characters of my bosom friend, Miguel -Clavijo, under whose protection I had placed my wife and child, giving -warning of impending danger to them. There was yet time to avert it, my -correspondent concluded, but in twenty-four hours from the date of this -communication, their fate would probably be sealed. - -It was within two hours of sunset when I received this letter, and eight -hours had already elapsed since it had been written. Not a moment, -therefore, was to be lost. I procured a pillion, and, placing it on an -active horse, set off with all possible haste for Cañete, keeping along -the course of the river Ariate to avoid the town of Ronda, and -traversing at full speed the village bearing the name of the stream, in -order to escape recognition. - -I reached the rounded summit of the chain of hills which forms the -northern boundary of the cultivated valley of Ronda, just as the sun was -sinking behind the western mountains; and, checking my horse to give him -a few moments' breath ere commencing the rugged descent on the opposite -side, I turned round to see if all were quiet in the wide-spread plain I -had just traversed, and that no one was following my traces. At this -moment the last ray of the glorious luminary lit upon the distant town -of Grazalema. The remarkable coincidence of the warning of treason I had -received there on this very day, twelve years before, came vividly to -mind, and with it the recollection of my extraordinary escape from the -snare laid for me--the debt of gratitude due to her who had risked her -life, and sacrificed her honour to save me--the cruelty with which my -preserver had been treated. Poor abandoned Paca! From the moment of our -angry separation, never had I once taken the trouble of enquiring what -had been her fate. Scarcely, indeed, had I ever bestowed a thought upon -her. - -I resumed my way down the rough descent, pondering, for the first time -in my life, on the ingratitude I had been guilty of, and had reached -some high cliffs that border the road beneath the village of La Cuera -del Becerro, when a pistol was discharged within a few yards of me, and, -looking up, I saw a witchlike figure standing on the edge of the -precipice overhanging the path--It was Paca! - -Had my eyes wished to deceive me, she would not have allowed them, for, -with a wild, demonaical laugh, she screamed out "_Adelante, Adelante, -embustero desalmado!_[147]--You will yet be in time to dig the grave for -your child, though too late to snatch your _wife_ from the arms of her -paramour. Forward, forward; recollect the old saying, '_no hay boda, sin -tornabóda_;'[148] you may have forgotten Paca of _Benaocaz_, but I shall -never forget Blas Maldonado. The creditor has ever a better memory than -the debtor. I have paid myself now, however--ride on, and see the -receipt I have left for you at Cañete--ha, ha, ha!" - -There was something perfectly fiendish in her laughter. A horrible -presentiment possessed me.--With a hand tremulous with passion, I drew -forth a pistol and fired. Paca staggered, and fell backwards; but, not -waiting to see if she were killed, I put spurs to my horse, and hurried -forward to Cañete. - -I rode straight to the house where I had left my wife, but it was -uninhabited. I turned from it with a shudder, and proceeded to the -abode of my faithful friend Clavijo, who was confined to his bed with -ague. He received me with a face foreboding evil. - -"Where is my wife?" I hastily demanded--"my child, where is he?" - -"Alas!" he replied, "why came you not earlier?" - -"Earlier! how could that be? It is but twelve hours since your summons -was penned! Tell me, I implore you--what horrible misfortune has -befallen?" - -"But twelve hours, say you?" exclaimed Clavijo; "It is now _three days_ -since I intrusted my letter to Paca to convey to you! she it was who -informed me of the plot to carry off your wife, (which has been but too -truly effected,) and offered to be herself the bearer of my letter to -you at Montejaque, where she assured me you were. I have not seen her -since, and fancied she had not succeeded in finding you." - -I stood stupified whilst listening to this explanation--for such it was -to me; the truth, the horrible truth, at once flashing upon me--and -then, without waiting to obtain further information from the bed-ridden -Miguel, hastened to the late residence of my wife, which one of his -domestics pointed out to me. In few words, I explained to its owner the -object of my visit, begging for information concerning my child. "This -will explain all, Señor Blas," she replied, taking a letter from a -cupboard, and placing it in my hands; "would to God it had been in my -power to prevent what has happened." - -The letter was in my wife's hand-writing, I tore it open, and to my -astonishment read as follows. - -"Monster of iniquity! The veil that has but too long concealed thy -unequalled crimes from the eyes of a confiding woman, has been rudely -torn aside. Murderer of my brother! Apostate! Traitor! Adulterer! -receive at my hands the first stroke of the Almighty's anger. The -illegitimate offspring of our intercourse lies a mangled corpse upon our -adulterous bed! Yes, unparalleled villain; my hand, like thine own, is -stained with the blood of my child--_our_ child. But on thy head rests -the sin. In a moment of delirium, produced by the sight of my husband, -and the knowledge of thy atrocious crimes, the horrid deed was -committed. I leave thee to the pangs of remorse. I cannot curse thee. -Even with the bleached corpse of my poor boy before me, I cannot bring -myself to call down a heavy punishment upon thee. We shall never meet -again; but fly instantly and save thyself if possible; and may the -Almighty Being, whose every command thou hast violated, extend the term -of thy life for repentance; and may a blessed Saviour and the holy -saints, whose mediation thou hast ever derided, intercede for the -salvation of thy sinful soul." - -My first feeling on reading this epistle was incredulity! _I_, who had -stopped at no crime to gratify any evil passion; even I could not -persuade myself that it was not a forgery, nor believe that one so -gentle, so affectionate, as Engracia, could be guilty of so diabolical -an act. I took up a lamp and walked composedly to the adjoining chamber, -to satisfy my doubts. With a steady hand I drew aside the curtain of the -bed--nothing was visible. A thrill of delight ran through my veins. I -tore off the counterpane, and--horrible revulsion of -feeling!--discovered my boy, my darling boy, with anguish depicted in -every feature, and every muscle contracted with excessive suffering; a -cold--black--fetid--putrid corpse! - -Until that moment I had not known the full extent to which the chords of -the human heart are capable of being stretched. All my love of life had -centred in that child. Each of his infantile endearments came fresh upon -my memory. The pangs of jealousy and hate, too, had never before been so -acutely felt; and, lastly, I thought of my Fernando's dying malediction! -It seemed as if a poisoned dart had pierced to the very innermost recess -of the heart, and that my envenomed blood waited but its extraction, to -gush forth in one irrepressible flood. - -I stood speechless--awe-struck--motionless; but not yet humbled. I -thought of Paca, and a curse rose to my throat; but ere I had time to -give it utterance, a noise, as of many persons assembled at the door of -the house, attracted my attention, and I heard an unknown voice say, -"This, _Tio_, you are sure is the house? Then in with you, comrades, -without ceremony, and bring out every soul you may find there, dead or -alive." - -In another moment the door was broken open and a party of armed men -rushed in. My precaution of extinguishing the lamp was vain, as several -of them bore blazing torches. I rushed to a back window of the inner -apartment, and drew forth a pistol to keep them at bay whilst I effected -my escape by it. It had the desired effect. Not one of the dastard crew -would approach to lay his hand upon me. The shutter was already thrown -open; the strength of desperation had enabled me to tear down one of the -iron bars of the _reja_; and one foot rested on the window-sill; when, -rushing past the soldiers, a ghost-like female figure, whose face was -bound up in a cloth clotted with gore, seized me in her convulsive -grasp, and in a half-articulate scream cried, "Wretch! you shall not so -escape me!"--It was Paca! I tried in vain to shake her off; she clung to -me with the pertinacity of a vampire, I placed the muzzle of my pistol -to her temple, and pulled the trigger; but, in my hurry, I had drawn -that which I had already fired at her. I attempted to snatch another -from my belt, but the soldiers taking courage rushed forward and -overpowered me, just as Paca, from whose mouth I now perceived blood was -rapidly issuing, fell exhausted upon the floor. - -The commander of the party was now called in, who gave directions for a -priest and a surgeon to be instantly sent for, and that I should be -bound hand and foot with cords. They took the bedding from under the -corpse of my son to form a rest for Paca, whose life seemed ebbing -rapidly. - -In a few minutes the surgeon arrived, and shortly after a tinkling bell -announced the approach of the Host. The doctor having examined Paca's -wounds, pronounced them to have been inflicted by the discharge of some -weapon loaded with slugs, one of which had fractured her jaw-bone, -whilst another had inflicted a wound that occasioned an inward flow of -blood which threatened immediate dissolution, and consequently the -services of the church were more likely to be beneficial than his own. -The priest then approached, and offered the last and cheering -consolation that our holy religion offers to a dying penitent. - -Paca opened her now lustreless eyes, and with a motion of impatience, -putting aside the proffered cup, pointed to me. "There is my murderer," -she muttered in broken accents; "Villain! monster! my vengeance is at -length complete. I leave you in the hands of justice, and die ... -happy." An agonized writhe belied her assertion. She never spoke after, -but continued groaning whilst the worthy priest attempted to call her -attention to her approaching end. - -I have not much more to add to my history. It appeared, by what I learnt -afterwards, that Beltran had most miraculously escaped death, when -thrown from the rock of Montejaque, and having been discovered by some -French soldiers who made an attack upon the place a few days afterwards, -was conveyed to Ronda, when the loss of his ears led to his being -recognised by the French governor, who had, in the meanwhile, received -my _present_, and discovered the trick I had played him. - -Beltran's tale thus proved to have been the true one, he was -well-treated, and sent with a party of prisoners to France, where he -remained until the conclusion of the war. He was then on his way back to -his native country, in company with several other Spaniards, when he was -arrested as being an accomplice, "_sans préméditation_," in a robbery, -attended with loss of life, and was sentenced to ten years' -imprisonment; but, before this term was fully completed, he obtained -his release, returned to Spain, and proceeding immediately to his native -province, there first learnt that Engracia had become my wife. - -I think, by the way, that in the former part of my narrative I omitted -to mention--for fully persuaded as I _then_ was of Beltran's death, it -was a matter of no moment--that previous to Engracia's becoming my wife, -she informed me of her having, at the urgent instances of her brother -Melchor, consented to a private marriage with my rival; and from this -circumstance she had expressed the greatest anxiety to ascertain his -fate with certainty, and had delayed for so long a period bestowing her -hand upon me. - -This marriage with Beltran had taken place at Gaucin within an hour of -my departure from that town, after making the arrangements for our -combined attack on Ronda; and had been strongly advocated by Melchor, -from an apprehension that, should any thing happen to him in the -approaching conflict, his elder brother, Alonzo, who was kept in perfect -ignorance of this proceeding, would abandon his friend Beltran, and -insist on their sister's marrying me, whom he (Melchor) detested. - -I, however, as you are aware, had every reason to believe that Beltran -had been killed by his fall from the rock of Montejaque; and therefore, -on eventually eliciting from Engracia the reason of her reluctance to -marry me, I had no scruple in declaring that Beltran's dead body had -been seen rolling down the shallow pebbly bed of the Guadiaro, after our -action with the French. The crime I had led her to commit was -consequently unintentional. Would I could as easily acquit myself of -another her letter accused me of, namely, that of being the murderer of -her brother: for, through my machinations was his death brought about. - -Whilst the crop-eared traitor, Beltran, (the _Tio's_ revengeful feelings -were not so entirely allayed as to prevent his bestowing an occasional -term of reproach on those who had thwarted his prosperous career of -iniquity) was skulking about the mountains, endeavouring to obtain -tidings of his re-married wife, chance threw him in the way of Paca, -engaged in a similar pursuit, but with a very different purpose. - -This wretched woman had, for many years after our separation, been the -inmate of a mad-house; but, at length, her keepers finding that, -excepting on the subject of her supposed wrongs, she was perfectly -tractable, became careless of watching her, and she effected her escape. - -The sole object of this vindictive creature's life appears now to have -been to wreak vengeance upon me. But not satisfied with the mere death -of her victim, she sought first to torture him with worldly pangs; and -informed that Engracia lived, and had given birth to a son, whom I loved -with a more fervent affection than even the mother, she determined -_they_ should first be sacrificed to her revenge. - -On discovering Beltran alive, however, a scheme yet more hellishly -devised entered her imagination; in the execution of which he became a -willing agent, though in some degree her dupe. - -Well acquainted with all my haunts, she soon got upon my track; and that -discovered, had little difficulty in finding out the hiding-place of -Engracia. Making a shrewd guess at the person under whose protection I -had placed my wife and child, she forthwith presented herself to Don -Miguel, and informed him that a plot was laid, and on the eve of -execution, to carry them both off; adding, that it might yet be -frustrated if I could but arrive at Cañete within twenty-four -hours--that she knew where I then was, and would undertake to have any -warning conveyed to me which his prudence might suggest--that her -messenger was sure, but still the utmost caution, as well as despatch, -was necessary. - -Miguel, quite taken by surprise, and unable from illness to leave his -bed, wrote the short note which has already been given; and this point -gained, Paca proceeded to the nearest town to give information to the -authorities that the bandit Blas, whom they were seeking in every -direction, was to be at Cañete la Real on a certain night; and proposed, -if a detachment of troops was sent quietly to the neighbouring village -of El Becerro, that she would repair thither at the proper time, and -conduct the soldiers to the traitor's very lair. - -This proposal was readily acceded to, and Paca then repaired to Cañete, -to tell Miguel not to be uneasy as to the result of his message to me, -as, since sending it, she had ascertained on good authority that -something had occurred to postpone the elopement of Engracia for a day -or two. - -Bending her steps thence to where Beltran was anxiously awaiting her -return, she told him that after much difficulty she had discovered -Engracia was at Cañete; he had therefore but to proceed there after -dark, provided with the means of carrying her off. But this, she -informed him, must be done with the utmost celerity and circumspection, -as the inhabitants of the place were so desperate a set, and so attached -to me, that, if they got the slightest inkling of what was going -forward, they certainly would handle him very roughly; and the -authorities, unless backed by a body of troops, would be afraid to -interfere in his behalf. - -If, however, she pursued, he preferred waiting until an escort could be -procured, that he might avoid all personal risk--but delays were -dangerous, for frequently - - _"De la mano a la boca_ - _se cae la sopa._"[149] - -The law, too, was uncertain.--He thought so also, and they proceeded -together to Cañete. - -Beltran, imagining that Paca had informed Engracia of his being alive, -conceived that no intimation of his coming was requisite; but such was -not the case, and the shock given by his unexpected visit caused the -aberration of mind which led the hapless Engracia to commit the horrid -crime of infanticide; and, in the state of inanition that followed, she -was carried out of the town. - -The letter to me was written afterwards, and delivered to the old woman -of the house by Paca, the last act of whose fiendish plot now commenced. - -Altering the date of Miguel's letter, so as to make it correspond with -the time arranged for the arrival of the troops at _La Cueva del -Becerro_, she forwarded it to me at Montejaque--what followed has -already been stated. - -These details became known on my trial, which took place shortly -afterwards. I was condemned to suffer death by the _garrote_. The day -was fixed; I sent for a priest, and entrusting to him the ring given me -by the ----, begged he would forward it without delay to Madrid. - -This was done, but day after day passed without bringing any answer to -my appeal. At first I had been so sanguine as to the result, that I was -affected but little at my position, for I knew how easily a pardon is -obtained in Spain, when application is made in the proper quarter; but, -as the fatal time approached, the darkest despair took possession of my -soul. - -I cannot indeed convey to you, Don Carlos, an adequate idea of the -horrible torments I endured during the last few days preceding that -fixed for my execution. The pious father Ignacio--he has since (sainted -soul!) been taken from this earth, and is now, I trust, my intercessor -in heaven--was unremitting in his endeavours to bring me to repentance; -but Satan was yet strong within me, and my heart remained hardened. The -pardon came not, and I exclaimed against the justness of the Most High: -I, whom no considerations of justice had influenced in any one action of -my life--who had recklessly transgressed each of His commandments! - -"We must not ask for _justice_ at the hands of the Almighty," urged -Ignacio; "We are all born in sin, in sin we all live; _mercy_ is what we -must pray for." - -"Mercy!" I exclaimed; "_Why_ was I born in sin? Why led to commit crime? -Why...." - -"Your unbridled passions led you to transgress the laws of your -Creator," replied Ignacio; "be thankful that you were not cut short in -your mad career, and that time has been allowed you for repentance." - -"Repent!--I cannot--I have ever denied, I cannot now believe in the -existence of a Maker." - -"Unhappy man!" ejaculated the worthy priest; "unhappy, impious, -inconsistent man! You deny the existence of the Being against whose -justice your voice was raised e'en now in reproaches! Do you not look -forward to behold again to-morrow the bright luminary round which this -atom of a world revolves? Look on that pale moon, which perhaps you now -see rising for the last time--Observe that fiery meteor which has this -moment dashed through the wondrous, boundless firmament; and ask -yourself if this admirable system can be the effect of accident? Do the -trees yearly yield us their fruits by chance? Is the punctual return of -the seasons a mere casualty? If so, how is it that this accidental -atom--this globe we inhabit, has so long held together _without_ -accident? Has any work of man, however cunningly devised, in like manner -withstood the effects of time? Is not the protecting hand of the Deity -clearly perceptible in the unvarying continuance of these phenomena? - -"My son, had you studied the Holy Scriptures more, and the philosophy of -Voltaire and other infidels less, you would not have been brought to -this strait; neither would you have shocked my ears with a confession, -which, a few years since, would have consigned you to the dungeons of -the Inquisition. Repent! unhappy man, repent! and save your soul--there -is still time. Nay, an omnipotent Maker may even yet think fit to -prolong your life here below, for the perfection of this good work, if -you will but pray to him in all sincerity." - -The pious father saw that I was touched, and, pouring in promises of -future happiness, brought me to reflect. I begged him to be with me -early on the following morning. He came; I had passed the night in -prayer; and now unburdened my mind, by making to him a full confession -of my sins. - -Ignacio remained comforting me, until the hour of the arrival of the -post, when he repaired, as usual, to the _Corregidor_, to ascertain -whether any pardon had reached him. He returned not, however. Eleven -o'clock was the hour fixed for my execution; it came, but still Ignacio -did not appear. Hours passed away, and not a soul visited me; the sun -again sank below the horizon, and I yet lived. - -It was evident--so, at least, I thought--that a pardon had arrived, and -my spirits rose accordingly. At length, towards nightfall, Ignacio -entered my cell. "Blas," he said, "though it would appear there is no -longer a chance of your receiving a pardon, yet your life has been -miraculously spared this day, to give you time for repentance. I trust -you have turned it to good account." - -"How!" I exclaimed, "have I not been pardoned? What, then, has -occasioned this delay?" - -"You owe your life," he replied, "to a rumour, that a band of robbers -had appeared in the vicinity--some of your old friends, it was -thought--which caused all the troops to be sent out in pursuit. They -have but now returned, and to-morrow you will be executed." - -A pang of withering disappointment ran through me, for I had confidently -imagined that the delay had been the consequence of the arrival of a -pardon, and Satan once more obtained dominion over me. - -Ignacio read in my overcast countenance the change his information had -wrought in my feelings. "Your repentance is not sincere, my son," he -observed. "Alas! when death is in sight, how fondly do we cling to this -earth. And yet you have braved death in the field a thousand times!" - -"Father," I replied, "it is not death I fear--it is the disgrace of a -public execution." - -"What absurd sophistry is this?" said he. "Can one, who but yesterday -denied the existence of a future state, care for one moment _how_ he -quits this world, or regard the opinion of those he leaves behind in -it?--as well might he be fearful of losing the good opinion of a herd of -swine. Away with such fine-spun subtilties--it is the prospect of -meeting your Maker face to face that makes you quail. You are yet but -ill prepared, I see. Oh! may He yet mercifully extend your life, if but -a short span." - -The morrow came, but the pious Ignacio's prayer remained apparently -unheard. He repaired to my call soon after the arrival of the post, to -exhort and prepare me. Alas! I was as much in want of his assistance as -ever, for I had all along clung to the hope of obtaining a pardon -through the influence of the ----, and was more inclined to rail than to -pray. - -A party of soldiers at length arrived, and I was led off in chains to -the place of execution. A vast crowd was assembled from all the -neighbouring towns to witness my punishment. Ignacio addressed the -multitude on our way, saying, I was a repentant sinner, and implored the -prayers of all good Christians. For myself I said not a word, and the -crowd gave no signs of either gratification or commiseration. I mounted -the scaffold, the fatal instrument was placed round my throat, a curse -was yet on my lips, when a distant shout attracted the Father's -attention. Laying a hand upon the arm of the executioner to stay his -proceedings, he watched with eager eyes the signs of some one who was -approaching at a rapid pace, holding a paper high in the air. The paper -was handed to Ignacio by the breathless messenger. "It is a pardon," he -exclaimed; "your life is miraculously spared--it has been sent express -from the Escurial! Return your thanks, to Him, who has been pleased thus -to extend his mercy towards you." - -I had already sunk on my knees--I prayed earnestly for the first time in -my life. - -Marvellously, indeed, had my life been preserved. But for the rumoured -appearance of the band of robbers, I should have suffered death the day -before; again, this day, but for Ignacio's presence, the pardon would -have arrived too late. - -I was immediately released, but a fever, caused, probably, by my -previously excited feelings, confined me to my bed for many weeks. I -became delirious, and my life was despaired of. Ignacio tended me like a -brother. A second time he saved my life; but, alas! he himself -contracted the contagious disorder, and fell a victim to his warm and -disinterested friendship. - -I expended all I was worth in masses for his soul, and was once more -thrown upon the world to seek a livelihood. - -I thought of applying to the ---- to procure me some employment, but -learnt that he too had closed his mortal career. The fever had given -such a shock to my constitution, that old age, I may say, came suddenly -upon me, and to gain a livelihood by hard labour was out of the -question. I had no relations; my friends were all new; so that I had no -claims on any one: my present occupation presented itself, as the only -one I was fit for; and, thank God, it enables me to earn my bread -without begging, and even to lay by a little store for pious -purposes:--for much of my time is devoted to the performance of penances -and austerities, to expiate the sins of my past life. Thrice, on my -knees, have I ascended to the _Ermita_ you see there peeping through the -clouds gathered round the peaks of the Sierra Morena. Once, too, have I -walked barefoot to prostrate myself before the _Santa faz_[150] of Jaen; -and this winter (God willing!) I purpose visiting the most holy shrine -of _Sant' Iago de Compostela_. - -It is a long journey, and will, probably, be my last pilgrimage, for I -feel myself sinking fast. - -You have now had the history of my whole life, Don Carlos--I wish it -could be published. It might, probably, warn my fellow-creatures to rest -contented with the lot to which it has pleased God to call them; and, if -so, I may have lived to some purpose. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - UNFORESEEN DIFFICULTIES IN PROCEEDING TO MADRID--DEATH OF KING - FERDINAND--CHANGE IN OUR PLANS--ROAD TO - ANDUJAR--ALCOLEA--MONTORO--PORCUNA--ANDUJAR--ARJONA--TORRE - XIMENO--DIFFICULTY OF GAINING ADMISSION--SUCCESS OF A - STRATAGEM--CONSTERNATION OF THE AUTHORITIES--SPANISH ADHERENCE TO - FORMS--CONTRASTS--JAEN--DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE, CITY, AND - CATHEDRAL--LA SANTA FAZ--ROAD TO GRANADA--OUR KNIGHTLY - ATTENDANT--PARADOR DE SAN RAFAEL--HOSPITABLE FARMER--ASTONISHMENT - OF THE NATIVES--GRANADA--EL SOTO DE ROMA--LOJA--VENTA DE - DORNEJO--COLMENAR--FINE SCENERY--ROAD FROM MALAGA TO ANTEQUERA, AND - DESCRIPTION OF THAT CITY. - - -I found Cordoba the same dull, sultry, loyal city as at the period of my -former visit; after devoting a day, therefore, to the incomparable -_Mezquita_, we repaired to the police office to redeem our passports, -and have them _visé_ for Madrid, purposing to proceed to the capital by -_Diligence_. We there learnt, however, that our route from Gibraltar, -having passed _near_ the district wherein the cholera had appeared, the -public safety demanded that our journey should be continued on -horseback, and, moreover, that each day's ride should not exceed eight -leagues! - -The prospect of a fortnight's baking on the parched plains of La Mancha -and Castile, which this preposterous precaution held out, was, of -itself, enough to make any one _crusty_; but the additional vexation of -finding that all our precautions had been unavailing, all our -information erroneous, made us return to the _posada_, thoroughly out of -humour with _Las Cosas de España_. Our landlord comforted us, however, -by engaging--if we would but wait patiently for a few days, and leave -the business entirely in his hands--to get matters arranged so that we -might yet proceed on to Madrid by the diligence; and, knowing the wheels -within wheels by which Spanish affairs of state are put in motion, we -willingly came to this compromise, and remained quietly paying him for -our breakfasts and dinners during the best part of a week, receiving -each day renewed assurances that every thing was proceeding -"_corriente_." - -The second day after our arrival at Cordoba, the inhabitants were moved -to an unusual degree of excitement, in consequence of an _estafette_ -having passed through the city during the night, bearing despatches from -Madrid to the Captain General of the Province, and rumours were afloat -that the king was so seriously ill as to occasion great fears for his -life; and, on the following day, public anxiety was yet further excited -by a report that the Captain General had passed through Cordoba on his -way to the capital; leading to the general belief that Ferdinand was -actually dead. - -In the evening our host came to us with a very long face, and informed -us, confidentially, that such was the case, though, for political -reasons, it had been deemed prudent not to make the melancholy news -public; adding, that, in consequence of this unforeseen and unfortunate -event, he regretted to say the authorities had been seized with such a -panic, that he had altogether failed in his endeavour to have the stain -effaced from our bill of health. Nevertheless, he said, he hoped yet to -be able to arrange matters so as to ensure our being received into the -diligence, _without any questions being asked_ at Andujar, if we would -but remain quietly where we were for a few days longer, and then proceed -to that place on horseback. - -The news received from Madrid had, however, decided us to give up the -plan of continuing our journey thither. I knew enough of Spain to -foresee what would be the result of all the intrigues which had been -carried on behind the curtains of the imbecile Ferdinand's death-bed. - -"You are quite right, Señor," said Blas, to whom I made known our change -of plans, "we shall now have a disputed succession, for, be assured, Don -Carlos is not the man to forego his just rights without a -struggle.--Alas! this only was wanting to fill my unhappy country's cup -of misery to overflowing." - -Although thus unwillingly forced to abandon the project of crossing the -Sierra Morena, we determined, whilst the country yet remained quiet, to -extend our tour further to the eastward, and, by proceeding along the -_arrecife_ to Madrid as far as Andujar, gain the road which leads from -thence to Jaen; a city, which the want of practicable roads leading from -it to the south has, until late years (during which that deficiency has -been remedied), been very rarely visited by travellers. - -Recommending Señor Blas to postpone his projected barefoot pilgrimage -into Gallicia, until the rainy season had set in, and made the roads -soft, we departed from Cordoba by the great post route to the capital, -which, as far as Alcolea, is conducted along the right bank of the -Guadalquivír, and is a fine, broad, and well-kept gravel road. - -Alcolea is seven miles from Cordoba. It is a small village of but twenty -or thirty houses, and, in the opinion of Florez, occupies the site of -the ancient town of Arva. The _arrecife_ here crosses to the left bank -of the river by a handsome marble bridge, of eighteen arches, built in -1788-92. The passage of this bridge was obstinately contested by the -Spaniards, in the campaign of 1808, but a party of the French, which -had crossed the river at Montoro, falling upon its defenders in flank, -forced them to retreat. - -From hence to Carpio is ten miles. The country is undulated, and the -road--along which there is not a single village, and scarcely half a -dozen houses--keeps within sight of the Guadalquivír the whole way, -affording many pleasing views of the winding stream and its overhanging -woods and olive groves. - -The town of Carpio is left about a quarter of a mile off, on the right. -It is situated on a hill, and by some is supposed to be the ancient city -of Corbulo. Pliny, however, distinctly says that place was _below_ -Cordoba, and Florez fixes it in the vicinity of Palma. - -From Carpio to Aldea del Rio is twelve miles, the country continuing -much the same as heretofore. At three miles, the road reaches the small -town of Pedro Abad (or Perabad) in the vicinity of which is a -_despoblado_,[151] where various medals and vestiges have been found -that determine it to be the site of Sacili, mentioned by Pliny. - -Proceeding onwards, the town of Bujalance may occasionally be seen on -the right, distant about a league and a half from the Guadalquivír; and -at seven miles from Carpio, we passed Montoro, a large town situated on -the margin of the river, and about three quarters of a mile to the left -of the _arrecife_. This town has been determined by antiquaries to be -Ripepora. - -The country about Aldea del Rio is rather pretty, and the place has a -thriving look compared with the miserable towns we had lately seen; its -population is about 1,800 souls. We halted here for the night, and found -the _posada_ most wretched. - -At a distance of nine (geographic) miles from Aldea del Rio, in a -south-east direction, is the town of Porcuna; its situation, Florez -justly observes, agreeing so well with that of Obulco, as given both by -Strabo[152] and Pliny,[153] as to leave no doubt of their identity. -Inscriptions, monuments, coins, &c., which have been found there, quite -confirm this opinion, and an important point is thus gained in tracing -the operations of Cæsar in his last campaign against the sons of Pompey; -since Obulco, which he is mentioned as having reached in twenty-seven -days from Rome, may be considered the advanced post of the country that -was favourable to his cause. - -The present ignoble name of the town--Porcuna,--appears to have been -bestowed upon it from the extraordinary fecundity of a _sow_; an -inscription, commemorative of the birth of thirty young pigs at one -litter, being preserved to this day in the church of the Benedictine -friars, and is thus worded:-- - - C. CORNELIVS. C. F. - CN. GAL. CÆSO. - AED. FLAMEN. II. VIR - MVNICIPII. PONTIF - C. CORN. CÆSO. F. - SACERDOS. GENT. MVNICIPII - SCROFAM CVM PORCIS XXX - IMPENSA IPSORVM. - D. D. - -From Aldea del Rio to Andujar is fourteen miles, making the whole -distance from Cordoba to that place forty-three miles. The country is -very gently undulated, and principally under tillage; the ride, however, -is dreary, there being but one house on the road. - -Andujar stands altogether on the right bank of the Guadalquivír, which -is crossed by a bridge of nine arches. The town is reputed to contain a -population of 12,000 souls, but that number is a manifest exaggeration. -It is encompassed by old Roman walls, and defended by an ancient castle, -and is celebrated for its manufacture of pottery. It is, nevertheless, a -dilapidated, impoverished looking place. - -By some Andujar is supposed to be the Illiturgi,[154] or, as it is -otherwise written, Illurtigis of the ancient historians; but Florez -fixes the site of that city two leagues higher up, but on the same bank -of the Guadalquivír, and imagines Andujar to be Ipasturgi. The locality -of the existing town certainly but ill agrees with the description of -Illurtigis given by Livy, for no part of Andujar is "covered by a high -rock."[155] - -The _arrecife_ to Madrid leaves the banks of the Guadalquivír at -Andujar, striking inland to Baylen, and thence across the Sierra Morena -by the pass of _Despeña Perros_. After devoting a few hours to exploring -the old walls of the town, we recrossed the river, and bent our steps -towards Granada, taking the road to Jaen. - -We proceeded that afternoon to Torre Ximena, twenty miles from Andujar. -The country is undulated, and mostly under cultivation. The road is--or, -more properly, I should say, perhaps, the places upon the road are--very -incorrectly laid down on the Spanish maps; for, instead of being -scattered east and west over the face of the country, they are so nearly -in line, as to make the general direction of the road nearly straight. -Though but a cross-country track, it is tolerably good throughout. The -first town it visits is Arjona, said to be the ancient Urgao, or -Virgao.[156] It is a poor place, of some twelve or fifteen hundred -inhabitants, and distant seven miles from the Guadalquivír. - -Five miles beyond Arjona, but lying half pistol shot off the road to the -right, is the miserable little village of Escañuela; and three miles -further on, the equally wretched town of Villa Don Pardo. From hence to -Torre Ximeno (five miles) the road traverses a vast plain, but, ere we -had proceeded half way, night overtook us, and on reaching the town we -found all the entrances most carefully closed. - -After making various attempts to gain admission--groping our way from -one barricade to another, until we had nearly completed the circuit of -the town--we perceived a light glimmering at some little distance in the -country, and hoping it proceeded from some _rancha_, where we might -obtain shelter from an approaching storm, if not accommodation for the -night, we spurred our jaded animals towards it as fast as the ruggedness -of the ground would admit. It proved, however, to be only the remains of -a fire made for the purpose of destroying weeds; but a peasant lad, who -was warming his evening meal over the expiring embers, pointed out a -path leading to one of the town gates, at which, he said, we might, -perhaps, gain admission. - -Following his directions, we found the gate without much trouble; but a -difficulty now arose that promised to be of a more insuperable nature, -namely, that of _awaking the guard_, for the combined efforts of our -voices proved quite inadequate to the purpose. - -It was very vexatious, but irresistibly ludicrous; and, prompted by this -mixed feeling of wrath and merriment, we determined to try what effect -would be produced by a general discharge of our pistols, and, -accordingly riding close up to the gate, fired a volley in the air. - -A tremendous discharge of _carajos!_ responded to our _salvo_, and -soldiers, policemen, custom-house officers, and health-officers, sallied -forth, helter skelter, from the guard-house and adjacent dwellings, -making off "with the very extremest inch of possibility," under the -impression that the place was attacked. - -One _aduanero_, however, more enterprising and valiant than the rest, -ventured to peep through the bars of the stockade and demand our -business; on learning which he encouragingly invited the _urbanos_ to -return to their _military duty_, whilst he despatched a messenger to the -_Alcalde_ to request instructions for their further proceedings. - -We were subjected meanwhile to a most vexatious detention, occasioned by -various causes. Firstly, because the village dictator was nowhere to be -found. He had--so it eventually turned out--started from his comfortable -seat at the fire of the _posada_ (where, surrounded by a knot of -politicians, he was discussing the justice of abrogating the Salique -law), at the first report of our fire-arms, and, wrapping his cloak -around him, had rushed into the street, declaring his intention of -meeting death like the last of the Palæologi, rather than be recognised -and spared, to grace the triumph of a victorious enemy. Then we had to -wait for the key of the gate, which had been carried off in the pocket -of one of the runaway soldiers; and, lastly, for a light, the guard-lamp -having been overturned in the general confusion, and all the oil spilt. - -During the half hour's delay occasioned by these various untoward -circumstances, we were subjected to a long verbal examination, touching -the part of the country whence we had come; for having wandered round -the town in our attempts to gain admission, until we had reached a gate -at the very opposite point of the compass to that which points to -Andujar, the account we gave seemed to awaken great doubts of our -veracity in the minds of these vigilant functionaries; and, even after a -lantern had been brought, and our passports delivered up, we underwent a -minute personal examination, ere being permitted to repair to the -posada. - -The Spaniards say, that we English are "_victimas de la etiqueta_;" and, -certes, we may compliment them, in return, on being the most complete -_slaves to form_. Instances in proof thereof,--which, though on a -smaller scale, were scarcely less laughable than the -foregoing,--occurred daily in the course of our journey. _Par example_, -on leaving the _venta_ at Fuente de Piedra, where our sleeping apartment -was little better than the stable into which it opened, the hostess -insisted on serving our morning cup of chocolate on a table partially -covered with a dirty towel, saying, it would not be "_decente_" to allow -us to take it standing at the kitchen fire. - -Here again, at Torre Ximeno, the landlord was conducting us into what he -conceived to be a befitting apartment, when his better half cried out, -"_à la sala! à la sala!_"[157] We pricked up our ears, fancying we were -to be in clover. The _sala_, however, proved to be a room about ten feet -longer than that into which we were first shown, but in every other -respect its _fac simile_; that is to say, it had bare white-washed walls -and a plastered floor, was furnished with half a dozen low rush-bottomed -chairs, and ventilated by two apertures, which at some distant period -had been closed by shutters. - -The floor presented so uneven a surface, and was marked with so many -rents, that, until encouraged by the landlord's "_no tiene usted -cuidado_,"[158] I was particularly careful where I placed my feet, -taking it to be a highly finished model of the circumjacent sierras and -water-courses. - -After more than the usual difficulties about bills of health and -passports, we received a very civil message from the _Alcalde_, to say, -that his house, &c. &c., were at our disposal; but our host and his -helpmate seemed so well inclined to do what was in their power to make -us _comfortable_, that we declined his polite offer. - -Our landlady was still remarkably pretty, though the mother of four -children--a rare occurrence in Spain, where mothers, however young they -may be, usually look like old women. We had some little difficulty in -persuading her that we did not like garlic, and that we should be -satisfied with a very moderate quantity of oil in the _guisado_[159] she -undertook to prepare for our supper, and on which, with bread and fruit, -and some excellent wine, we made a hearty meal. - -Contrasts in Spain are most absurd. We slept on thin woollen mattresses, -spread upon the before-mentioned mountainous floor--the serrated ridges -of which we had some little difficulty in fitting to our ribs--and in -the morning were furnished with towels bordered with a kind of thread -lace and fringe to the depth of at least eighteen inches; very -ornamental, but by no means useful, since the serviceable part of the -towel was hardly get-at-able. - -On asking our hostess for the bill, we were referred to her husband, -which, as the Easterns say, led us to regard her with the eyes of -astonishment; for this reference from the lady and mistress to her -helpmate, is the exception to the rule, and it was to save trouble we -had applied to her, experience having taught us that the landlady was -generally the oracle on these occasions; _invariably_, indeed, when -there is any intention to cheat. - -This, without explanation, may be deemed a most ungallant accusation; I -do not mean by it, however, to screen my own sex at the expense of the -fairer, for the truth is, the man adds duplicity to his other sins, by -retiring from the impending altercation. This he does either from -thinking that imposition will come with a better grace from his better -half, or, that she will be more ingenious in finding out reasons for the -exorbitance of the demand, or, at all events, words in defending it; for -any attempt at expostulation is drowned in such a torrent of whys and -wherefores, that one is glad, _coute qui coute_, to escape from the -encounter. And thus, whilst the lady's volubility is extracting the -money from their lodger's pocket, mine host stands aloof, looking as -like a hen-pecked mortal as he possibly can, and shrugging his -shoulders from time to time, as much as to say, "It is none of my doing! -I would help you if I dare, but you see what a devil she is!" - -On the present occasion, however, we had no reason to remonstrate, for, -to a very moderate charge, were added numerous excuses for any thing -that might have been amiss in our accommodation, in consequence of their -ignorance of our wants. - -Torre Ximeno is situated in a narrow valley, watered by a fine stream; -its walls, however, reach to the crest of the hills on both sides, and -apparently rest on a Roman foundation. It contains a population of 1,800 -souls. From hence a road proceeds, by way of Martos and Alcalà la Real, -to Granada, but it is more circuitous than that by Jaen. - -From Torre Ximeno to that city is two long leagues, or about nine miles. -The road now takes a more easterly direction than heretofore, and, at -the distance of three miles, reaches the village of Torre Campo. The -rest of the way lies over an undulated country, which slants gradually -towards the mountains, that rise to the eastward. - -Jaen is situated on the outskirts of the great Sierra de Susana, which, -dividing the waters of the Guadalquivír and Genil, spreads as far south -as the vale of Granada. The city is built on the eastern slope of a -rough and very inaccessible ridge, whose summit is occupied by an old -castle, enclosed by extensive outworks. - -The ancient name of the place was Aurinx, and it appears to have stood -just without the limits of ancient Boetica. It is now the capital of -one of the kingdoms composing the province of Andalusia, and the see of -a bishop in the archbishoprick of Toledo. Its population amounts to at -least 20,000 souls. - -Jaen is in every respect a most interesting city. It is frequently -mentioned by the Roman historians, was equally noted in the time of the -Moors, from whom it was wrested by San Fernando, A.D. 1246, and of late -years has held a distinguished place in the pages of military history. -Its situation is picturesque in the extreme, the bright city being on -the edge of a rich and fertile basin, encased by wild and lofty -mountains. The asperity of the country to the south is such indeed, -that, until within the last few years no road practicable for carriages -penetrated it, and Jaen has consequently been but very-little visited by -travellers; for Granada and Cordoba, being the great objects of -attraction, the most direct road between those two places was that which -was generally preferred. - -A direct and excellent road has now, however, been completed, between -Granada and the capital, passing through Jaen. This route crosses the -Guadalquivír at Menjiber, and, directed thence on Baylen, falls into the -_arrecife_ from Cordoba to Madrid, ere it enters the défilés of the -Sierra Morena. - -The castle of Jaen stands 800 feet above the city, and is still a fine -specimen of a Moslem fortress, though the picturesque has been -sacrificed to the defensive by various French additions and demolitions. -It crowns the crest of a narrow ridge much in the style of the castle of -Ximena, to which, in other respects, it also bears a strong resemblance. -Its tanks and subterraneous magazines are in tolerable preservation, but -the exterior walls of the fortress were partially destroyed by the -French, in their hurried evacuation of it in 1812. - -The view it commands is strikingly fine. An extensive plain spreads -northward, reaching seemingly to the very foot of the distant Sierra -Morena, and on every other side rugged mountains rise in the immediate -vicinity of the city, which, clad with vines wherever their roots can -find holding ground, present a strange union of fruitfulness and -aridity. - -The city contains fifteen convents, and numerous manufactories of silk, -linen and woollen cloths, and mats, and has a thriving appearance. The -streets are, for the most part, so narrow, that, with outstretched -arms, I could touch the houses on both sides of them. - -The cathedral is a very handsome edifice of Corinthian architecture, 300 -feet long, and built in a very pure style; indeed every thing about it -is in good keeping for Spanish taste. The pavement is laid in chequered -slabs of black and white marble; the walls are hung with good paintings, -but not encumbered with them; the various altars, though enriched with -fine specimens of marbles and jaspers, are not gaudily ornamented; the -organ is splendid in appearance and rich in tone. - -Some paintings by Moya, particularly a Holy Family, and the visit of -Elizabeth to the Virgin Mary, are remarkably good; and the _Capilla -sagrada_ contains several others by the same master, which are equally -worthy of notice: their frames of polished red marble have a good -effect. - -The only specimens of sculpture of which the cathedral can boast, are -some weeping cherubim, done to the very life. The greatest curiosity it -contains is the figure of Our Saviour on the cross, dressed in a kilt; -but the treasure of treasures of the holy edifice, the proud boast of -the favoured city itself, in fact, is the _Santa faz_--the Holy face. - -The _Santa faz_--so our conductor explained to us--is the impression of -Our Saviour's face, left in stains of blood on the white napkin which -bound up his head when deposited in the sepulchre. This cloth was thrice -folded over the face, so that three of these "_pinturas_," as the priest -called them, were taken. That of Jaen, he said, was the second or middle -one, the others are in Italy--where, I know not, but I have some -recollection of having heard of them when in that country. - -This miraculous picture is only to be viewed on very particular -occasions, or by paying a very considerable fee; but we were perfectly -satisfied with our cicerone's assurance of its "striking resemblance" to -Our Saviour, without requiring the ocular demonstration he was most -solicitous to afford. - -Attached to the cathedral is a kitchen for preparing the morning -chocolate of the priests, and which serves also as a snuggery, -where-unto they retire to smoke their _legitimos_ during the breaks in -their tedious lental services. - -The _Parador de los Caballeros_, in the Plaza _del Mercado_ is -remarkably good, and the view from the front windows, looking towards -the castle is very fine. - -The distance from Jaen to Granada, by the newly made _arrecife_, is -fifty-one miles. It descends gradually into the valley of the Campillos, -arriving at, and crossing the river about two miles from Jaen. - -The valley is wide, flat, and covered with a rich alluvial deposit; and -extends for several leagues in both directions along the course of the -stream, encircling the city with an ever-verdant belt of cultivation. - -For the succeeding three leagues, the road proceeds along this valley, -at first bordered with gardens, orchards, and vineyards, amongst which -numerous cottages and water-mills are scattered, but, after advancing -about five miles, overhung by rocky ridges, and occasionally shaded with -forest-trees. - -On a steep mound, on the right hand, forming the first mountain gorge -that the road enters, is situated the _Castillo de la Guarda_, and, at -the distance of three leagues from Jaen, is the _Torre de la Cabeza_, -similarly situated on the left of the road. Beyond this, another verdant -belt of cultivation gladdens the eye, extending about a mile and a half -along the course of the Campillos. In the midst of this, is the _Venta -del Puerto Suelo_, on arriving at which our _mozo_, who for several days -had been suffering from indisposition, came to inform us "_que no podía -mas_,"[160] requested we would leave him there to rest for a couple of -days; when he hoped to be able to rejoin us at Granada by means of a -_Galera_ that travelled the road periodically. - -We could not but accede to his request, and as we purposed reaching -Granada on the following day, the loss of his attendance for so short a -period was of little importance; the only difficulty was, who should -lead the baggage animal.--Fortune befriended us. - -On our arrival at the inn we had been accosted by a smart-looking young -fellow, in the undress uniform of a Spanish infantry soldier, who, -seeing the disabled state of our Esquire, volunteered his services to -lead our horses to the stable, and minister to their wants; and now, -learning from our _mozo_ how matters stood, he again came forward, and -offered to be our attendant during the remainder of the journey to -Granada, to which place he himself was proceeding. - -We gladly accepted his proffered services, and, after a short rest, -remounted our horses, and pursued our way; the young soldier--like an -old campaigner--seating himself between our portmanteaus on the back of -the baggage animal. Whilst jogging on before us, I observed, for the -first time, that he carried a bright tin case suspended from his -shoulder by a silken cord, and curious to know the purpose to which it -was applied, asked what it contained. - -Without uttering a word in reply, he took off the case, produced -therefrom a roll of parchment, and, spreading before us a long document -concluding with the words _Io el Rey_,[161] offered it for my perusal. -If my surprise was great at the length of the scroll, it was not -diminished on finding, after wading through the usual verbose and -bombastic preamble, that it dubbed our new acquaintance a knight of the -first class of _San Fernando_, and decorated him with the ribbon and -silver clasp of the same distinguished order. - -On first addressing him at the Venta, I had noticed a bit of ribbon on -his breast, but, aware that the very smell of powder, even though it -should be but that of his own musket, often _entitles_ a Spanish soldier -to a decoration; and, indeed, that it is more frequently an -acknowledgment of so many months' pay due, than of so much good service -done,[162] I had abstained from questioning him concerning it; but that -the first class decoration of a military order should have been bestowed -on one so low in rank as a corporal, I confess, surprised me; and I -concluded that its possessor was either the brother of the mistress of -some great man, or that he was passing off some other person's _honors_ -as his own. - -Being a very young man, it was evident he could not have seen much -service; my suspicions were, therefore, excusable, and I took the -liberty of cross-questioning him concerning the fields wherein his -laurels had been gathered. The result gave me such satisfaction that I -feel in justice bound to make the _amende honorable_ to the gallant -fellow for the foul suspicions I had entertained, by giving my readers -his history. As, however, it is somewhat long, I will postpone it for -the present--as, indeed, not having arrived at its conclusion for -several days, it is but methodically correct I should do--merely -premising in this place, that, besides the _Diploma_, the tin case -contained a statement of the particular services for which he obtained -his knighthood, drawn up and attested by the officers of his regiment. - -About a mile beyond the Venta where we had fallen in with our new -attendant, the country again becomes very wild and broken, and the hills -are covered with pine woods. The valley of the Campillos gets more and -more confined as the road proceeds, and is bounded by precipitous rocks; -and, at length, on reaching the _Puerta de Arenas_, the passage, for the -road and river together, does not exceed sixty feet, the cliffs rising -perpendicularly on both sides to a considerable height. - -This is a very defensible pass, looking towards Granada, but not so in -the opposite direction, as it is commanded by higher ground. It is about -eighteen miles from Jaen. - -On emerging from the pass, an open, cultivated valley presents itself; -towards the head of which, distant about four miles, is Campillos -Arenas, a wretched village, containing some fifty or sixty _vecinos_. We -were stopt at the entrance by an old beggarman, who was officiating as -_health_ officer, and demanded our passports, which, on receiving, he -ceremoniously forwarded to Head Quarters by a ragged, barefoot urchin, -with the promise of an _ochavo_[163] if he used despatch in bringing -them back to us. - -Our passports had now become a serious nuisance, from being completely -covered with _visés_ both inside and out; for, of course, the curiosity -of the natives was proportioned to the number of signatures they -contained, and their astonishment was boundless that we should be -travelling south at such a moment. At length, our papers were returned -to us, and the boy gained his promised reward by running with all his -might, to prove that the tedious delay we experienced was not -attributable to him. - -Proceeding onwards, in three quarters of an hour, we reached the -_Parador de San Rafael_, a newly built house of call for the diligence, -recently established on this road. It is about twenty-four miles from -Jaen, and twenty-seven from Granada, though, as the crow flies, the -distance is rather shorter, perhaps, to the latter city than to the -first named. It is a place of much resort, and we were happy to find -that San Rafael presided over comfortable beds, and good dinners, though -rather careless of the state of the wine-cellar. - -We started at an early hour next morning, our knightly attendant, with -his red epaulettes, and janty foraging cap, together with a _de haut en -bas_ manner assumed towards the passing peasantry and arrieros, causing -us to be regarded with no inconsiderable degree of respect. - -The road, for the first eight miles, is one continuation of zig zags -over a very mountainous country, and must be kept up at an immense -expense to the government, for there is but very little traffic upon it. -The hills are principally covered with forests of ilex, but patches of -land have recently been taken into cultivation in the valleys, and -houses are thinly scattered along the road. At ten miles and a half, we -passed the first village we had seen since leaving Campillos Arenas. It -is about a mile from the road on the left. The country now becomes less -rugged than heretofore, though it continues equally devoid of -cultivation and inhabitants. - -We were much disappointed at not finding a good _posada_ on the road, as -we had been led to expect. We passed two in process of building on a -magnificent scale, but nothing could be had at either. At last, after -riding four long leagues--at a foot's pace, on account of our baggage -animal--a farmer took compassion upon us, and, leading the way to his -_Cortijo_, supplied our famished horses with a feed of barley, and set -before ourselves all the good things his house afforded--melons, grapes, -fresh eggs, and delicious bread. - -We arrived at the farmer's dinner hour, and a wide circle, comprising -his wife, children, cowherds, ploughboys, and dairymaids, was already -formed round the huge family bowl of _gazpacho fresco_, of which we -received a general invitation to partake. It was far too light a meal, -however, to satisfy the cravings of our appetites, and politely -declining to dip our spoons in their common mess, we commenced making -the usual preparations for an English breakfast, by unpacking our -travelling canteen and placing a skillet of water upon the fire. - -The curiosity of the peasantry on these occasions amused us exceedingly. -In this instance the spectators, who probably had never before come in -such close contact with Englishmen, watched each of our movements with -the greatest interest. The beating up an egg as a substitute for milk, -excited universal astonishment; and the production of knives, forks, and -spoons, took their breath away; but when our travelling teapot was -placed on the table, their wonderment defies description; many started -from their seats to obtain a near view of the extraordinary machine, -and our host, after a minute examination, venturing, at last, to expose -his ignorance by asking to what use it was applied, exclaimed in -raptures, as if it was a thing he had heard of, "_y esa es una -tepà!_"[164] "_Una tepà!_" was repeated in all the graduated intonations -of the three generations of spectators present; "_una tepà! caramba! que -gente tan fina los Ingleses!_" - -We now carried on the joke by inflating an air cushion, but the use to -which it was applied alone surprised them; for our host with a nod -signifying "I understand," took down a huge pig-skin of wine, and made -preparations to transfer a portion of its contents to our portable -_caoutchouc_ pillow. On explaining the purpose to which it was applied, -"_Jesus! una almohada!_"[165] exclaimed all the women with one -accord--"_Que gente tan deleytosa!_"[166] - -Our percussion pistols next excited their astonishment, and by ocular -demonstration only could we convince them that they were fired without -"una piedra;"[167] but when I assured our host that, in England, -_diligences_ were propelled by steam at the rate of ten leagues an hour, -his amazement was evidently stretched beyond the bounds of credulity. -"_Como! sin caballos, sin mulas, sin nada, sino el vapor!_"[168] he -ejaculated; and his shoulders gradually rising above his ears, as I -repeated the astounding assertion, he turned with a look, half horror, -half amazement, to his assembled countrymen, saying as plainly as eyes -could speak--either these English deal largely with the devil, or are -most extraordinary romancers. - -If our equipment surprised them, we were not less astonished at the -number of cats, without tails, that were prowling about the house; and -asking the reason for mutilating the unfortunate creatures in this -unnatural way, our host replied, "These animals, to be useful, must have -free access to every part of the premises; but, when their tails are -long, they do incredible mischief amongst the plates, dishes, and other -friable articles, arranged upon the dresser, or left upon the table; -whereas, docked as you now see them, they move about without ceremony, -and, even in the midst of a labyrinth of crockery, do not the slightest -damage. All the mischief of this animal is in his tail." - -We had great difficulty in persuading our hospitable entertainer to -accept of any remuneration for what he had furnished us, and only -succeeded by requesting he would distribute our gift amongst his -children. - -From his farm, which is called the _Cortijo de los Arenales_, to -Granada, is nine miles. The country, during the whole distance, is -undulated, and mostly covered with vines and olives. On the right, some -leagues distant, we saw the town and _tajo_ of Moclin; and at three -miles from the _Cortijo_ crossed the river Cubillas, which, flowing -westward to the plain of Granada, empties itself into the Genil. A -little way beyond this the Sierra de Elvira rises abruptly on the right, -and thenceforth the ground falls very gradually all the way to Granada. - -Our sojourn at Granada was prolonged much beyond the period we had -originally intended, by the difficulty of ascertaining the truth of a -report that the cholera had appeared at Malaga; but, at length, it was -officially notified by a proclamation of the captain-general, that in -answer to a despatch sent to the governor of Malaga, he had been assured -that city was perfectly free from the disease; and a caravan, composed -of numberless _galeras_, _coches_, and _arrieros_, that had been -detained at Granada for a fortnight in consequence of this rumour, -forthwith proceeded to the sea-port. - -Sending our baggage animal forward, directing the mozo--whose -indisposition had abated so as to allow of his rejoining us, and -resuming his duty--to proceed along the high road to Loja until we -overtook him, we set off ourselves at mid-day to visit the _Soto de -Roma_.[169] - -The road thither strikes off from the _arrecife_ to Loja, soon after -passing the city of Santa Fé,[170] and traversing Chauchina, after much -twisting and turning, reaches Fuente Vaquero, a village belonging to the -Duke of Wellington, where his agent, General O'Lawler, has a house. - -From thence a long avenue leads to the _Casa Real_, which is situated on -the right bank of the Genil. The avenue, both trees and road, is in a -very bad state. On the left hand there is a wood of some extent; the -forest-trees it contains are chiefly elms and white poplars, but there -are also a few oaks. The ground is extremely rich, and was covered with -fine crops of maize and hemp; and, on the whole, it struck me the estate -was in better order than the properties adjoining it. - -The house, however, which at the period of my former visit to Granada -was in a tolerable state of repair, I now found in a wretched plight. -The court-yard was made the general receptacle for manure; the -coach-house and stables were turned into barns and cattle-sheds; the -garden was overgrown with weeds; and, basking in the sun, lay young -pigs amongst the roses. - -From having been the favourite retreat of the Minister Wall, it has -degenerated, in fact, into a very second-rate description of farmhouse. -This change, however, was inevitable; for, besides that the taste for -country-houses is very rare amongst Spaniards, and that the difficulty -of procuring a tenant who would keep it in order would, consequently, be -very great, the situation of the house is not such as a lover of fine -scenery would choose in the vicinity of Granada. - -The estate of the Soto de Roma has suffered great damage within the last -few years, from the Genil having burst its banks, laid waste the -country, and formed itself a new bed; and the stream not being now -properly banked in, keeps continually "_comiendo_"[171] the ground on -both sides. This evil should be corrected immediately, or, in the event -of another extraordinary rise in the river, it may lead to incalculable -mischief. The best and cheapest plan of doing this, would be to force -the stream back into its old channel. The elm woods on the estate would -furnish excellent piles for this purpose, and, by being cut down, would -clear some valuable ground which at present lies almost profitless. - -After recrossing the Genil we arrived at another village, inhabited by -the peasantry of the Soto de Roma, and soon after at a wretched place -called Cijuela. The country in its vicinity was flooded for a -considerable extent, and we had great difficulty in following the road, -and avoiding the ditches that bound it. At length we got once more upon -the _arrecife_, and reached Lachar; a vile place, reckoned four leagues -from Granada. - -From thence to the Venta de Cacin is called two leagues, but they are of -Brobdignag measurement. The road is heavy, and the country becomes hilly -soon after leaving Lachar. A league beyond the Venta de Cacin is the -Venta del Pulgar, situated in the midst of gardens and olive -plantations. - -It was 11 P.M. when we arrived, for, having missed our way in fording -the wide bed of the river Cacin (which crosses the road just beyond the -Venta of that name), we had wandered for two hours in the dark; and -might have done so until morning, but that our progress was cut short by -the river Genil. We thought the wisest plan would be to return to the -venta, and endeavour to procure a guide, which we fortunately succeeded -in doing. The _ventero_ had previously informed us that he had seen our -_mozo_ pass on with the baggage animal towards Loja, which made us -rather anxious for its safety, otherwise we should have rested at his -house for the night. - -On arriving at the Venta del Pulgar, we found our attendant established -there, and in some little alarm at our prolonged absence. Indeed the -faithful fellow was so uneasy, that he was about proceeding on a fresh -horse in search of us. The night was excessively cold, and we duly -appreciated the fire and hot supper his providence had caused to be -prepared. - -This venta is but a short league from Loja, the ride to which place is -very delightful, the rich valley of the Genil (here contracted to the -width of a mile) being on the right, a fine range of mountains on the -left, whilst the river frequently approaches close to the road, adding -by its snakelike windings to the beauty of the scenery. - -The town of Loja stands on the south side of a rocky gorge, by which the -Genil escapes from the fertile _Vega_ of Granada. The mountains on both -sides the river are lofty, and of an inaccessible nature, so that the -old Moorish fortress, though occupying the widest part of the défilé, -completely commands this important outlet from the territory of Granada, -as well as the bridge over the Genil. - -It was a place of great strength in times past, and Ferdinand and -Isabella were repulsed with great loss on their first attempt to gain -possession of it. The second attack of the "Catholic kings," made some -years afterwards (i. e. in 1487), was more successful, and the English -auxiliaries, under the Earl of Rivers, particularly distinguished -themselves on the occasion. - -Loja is proverbially noted for the fertility of its gardens and -orchards, the abundance and purity of its springs, and the loose morals -and hard features of its inhabitants. Its situation is peculiarly -picturesque, the town being built upon a steep acclivity, unbosomed in -groves of fruit trees and overlooked by a toppling mountain. The view of -the distant _Sierra Nevada_ gives additional interest to the scenery. It -contains a population of 9000 souls. - -From Loja to Malaga is forty-three miles. The country throughout is -extremely mountainous, but the road, nevertheless, is so good as to be -traversed by a diligence. Soon after leaving Loja, a road strikes off to -the right to Antequera, four leagues; and this, in fact, is the great -road from Granada to Seville, and the only portion of it that is -interrupted by mountains. - -The _arrecife_ to Malaga, leaving the village of Alfarnate to the left, -at sixteen miles, reaches the solitary venta of the same name; and two -miles beyond, the equally lonely venta of Dornejo, considered the -half-way house from Loja. The view from hence is remarkably fine, and we -enjoyed the scenery to perfection, having remained the night at the -venta, and witnessed the splendid effects of both the setting and rising -sun. - -This is the highest point the road reaches, and is, I should think, -about 4000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean. - -From the Venta de Dornejo the road proceeds to El Colmenar, eight miles. -The mountains that encompass this little town are clad to their very -summits with vines, and from the luscious grapes grown in its -neighbourhood is made the sweet wine, well known in England under the -name of Mountain. - -From El Colmenar the road is conducted nine miles along the spine of a -narrow tortuous ridge, that divides the Gualmedina, or river of Malaga, -from various streams flowing to the eastward, reaching, at last, a point -where a splendid view is obtained of the rich vale of Malaga, encircled -by the boldly outlined mountains of Mijas, Monda, and Casarabonela. The -_coup d'oeil_ is truly magnificent; the bright city lies basking in -the sun, on the margin of the Mediterranean, seemingly at the -spectator's feet; but eight miles of a continual descent have yet to be -accomplished ere reaching it. - -The engineer's pertinacious adherence to his plan of keeping the road on -one unvarying inclined plane, tries the patience to an extraordinary -degree, but the work is admirably executed. In the whole of these last -eight miles there is not one house on the road side, though several neat -villas are scattered amongst the ravines below it, on drawing near -Malaga. - -This difficult passage through the Serranía has been effected only at an -enormous cost of money and labour; but, as a work of art, it ranks with -any of the splendid roads lately made across the Alps. The scenery along -it, especially after gaining the southern side of the principal -mountain-chain, when the Mediterranean is brought to view, surpasses any -thing that is to be met with in those more celebrated, because more -frequented, cloud-capped regions. - -Another very fine road has been opened through the mountains between -Malaga and Antequera. The scenery along this is very grand, though -inferior to that just described. The distance between the two places is -about twenty-eight miles, reckoned eight leagues. The road is conducted -along the valley of Rio Gordo, or Campanillos; and, it is alleged, -through some private influence was made unnecessarily circuitous, to -visit the Venta de Galvez. This, and two other ventas, are almost the -only habitations on the road. About four miles from Antequera, the road -reaches the summit of the great mountain-ridge that pens in the -Guadaljorce, which falls very rapidly on its northern side. - -Antequera is situated near the foot of the mountain, but in a hollow -formed by a swelling hill, which, detached from the chain of sierra, -shelters it to the north. It is a large, well-built, and populous city, -contains twenty religious houses, numerous manufactories of linen and -woollen cloths, silks, serges, &c., and 40,000 souls. - -An old castle, situated on a conical knoll, overlooks the city to the -east. It formerly contained a valuable collection of ancient armour, but -the greater part has been removed. - -The city of _Anticaria_ is mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus; but, -as no notice is taken of it by Pliny, it probably was known in his day -by some other name. Some antiquaries have imagined Antequera to be -Singilia; but this is very improbable, as it is nearly four leagues -distant from the Singilis (Genil). - -Even the Guadaljorce does not approach within a mile of the city, which -depends upon its fountains for water; for though a fine rivulet flows -down from the mountains at the back of the city, washing the eastern -base of the castle hill, and sweeping round to the westward, where it -unites with the Guadaljorce, yet it merely serves to render the valley -fruitful, and to turn the wheels of the mills which supply the city with -flour and oil. - -At a league north-east from Antequera a lofty conical mountain, -distinguished by the romantic name of _El Peñon de los Enamorados_ (Rock -of the Lovers), rises from the plain; and a league beyond it is the town -of Archidona, on the great road from Granada to Seville. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - MALAGA--EXCURSION TO MARBELLA AND - MONDA--CHURRIANA--BENALMAINA--FUENGIROLA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF SUEL--SCALE TO BE ADOPTED, IN ORDER TO MAKE - THE MEASUREMENTS GIVEN IN THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS AGREE WITH THE - ACTUAL DISTANCE FROM MALAGA TO CARTEIA--ERRORS OF CARTER--CASTLE OF - FUENGIROLA--ROAD TO MARBELLA--TOWERS AND CASA FUERTES--DISPUTED - SITE OF SALDUBA--DESCRIPTION OF MARBELLA--ABANDONED MINES--DISTANCE - TO GIBRALTAR. - - -We found Malaga a deserted city, for the dread of cholera had carried -off half its inhabitants; not, however, to their last home, but to -Alhaurin, Coin, Churriara, and other towns in the vicinity, in the hope -of postponing their visit to a final resting-place by a temporary change -to a more salubrious atmosphere than that of the fetid seaport. - -Our zealous and indefatigable consul, Mr. Mark, still, however, remained -at his post, and his hospitality and kindness rendered our short stay as -agreeable as, under existing circumstances, it well could be. - -Understanding that a vessel was about to proceed to Ceuta in the course -of a few days, we resolved to take advantage of this favourable -opportunity of visiting that fortress--the Port Jackson of Spain; and -having already seen every thing worthy of observation in Malaga (of -which due notice has been taken in a former chapter), we agreed to -devote the intervening days to a short excursion to Marbella, Monda, and -other interesting towns in the vicinity. - -Leaving, therefore, the still hot, but no longer bustling city, late in -the afternoon, we took the road to the ferry near the mouth of the -Guadaljorce, and leaving the road to _El Retiro_ to the right on gaining -the southern bank of the river, proceeded to Churriana. - -We were disappointed both in the town and in the accommodation afforded -at the inn, for the place being much resorted to by the merchants of -Malaga, we naturally looked forward to something above the common run of -Spanish towns and Spanish posadas, whereas we found both the one and the -other rather below par. The town is quite as dirty as Malaga, but, -perhaps, somewhat more wholesome; for the filth with which the streets -are strewed _not_ being watered by a trickling stream, to keep it in a -state of fermentation throughout the summer, is soon burnt up, and -becomes innoxious. - -The town stands at a slight elevation above the vale of Malaga, and -commands a fine view to the eastward. - -We left the wretched venta betimes on the following morning, and -proceeded towards Marbella, leaving on our left the little village of -Torre Molinos, situated on the Mediterranean shore (distant one league -from Churriana), and reaching Benalmaina in two hours and a half. The -road keeps the whole way within half a mile of the sea, and about the -same distance from a range of barren sierras on the right. No part of it -is good but the ascent to Benalmaina (or, as it is sometimes, and -perhaps more correctly written, Benalmedina), is execrable. - -This village is surrounded with vineyards, and groves of orange and fig -trees; is watered by a fine clear stream, which serves to irrigate some -patches of garden-ground, as well as to turn numerous mill-wheels; and, -from the general sterility of the country around, has obtained a -reputation for amenity of situation that it scarcely deserves. - -In something less than an hour, descending the whole time, we reached -the Mediterranean shore, and continuing along it for a mile, arrived at -the Torre Blanca--a high white tower, situated on a rugged cliff that -borders the coast, and in the vicinity of which are numerous ruins. Some -little distance beyond this the cliffs terminate, and a fine plain, -covered with gardens and orchards, stretches inland for several miles. - -Nature has been peculiarly bountiful to this sunny valley, for the river -of Mijas winds through, and fertilizes the whole of its eastern side; -whilst the western portion is watered by the river Gomenarro, or--word -offensive to British ears--Fuengirola. - -The plain is about two miles across, and near its western extremity; and -a little removed from the seashore is the fishing village of Fuengirola. -It is a small and particularly dirty place, but contains a population of -1000 souls. The distance from Malaga is reckoned by the natives five -leagues, "three long and two short," according to their curious mode of -computation; but, I think, in reducing them to English miles, the usual -average of four per league may be taken. The last league of the road is -very good. The town of Mijas, rich in wine and oil, is perched high up -on the side of a rugged mountain, about four miles north of Fuengirola. -A _trocha_ leads from thence, over the mountains, into the valley of the -Guadaljorce, debouching upon Alhaurinejo; and to those in whose -travelling scales the picturesque outweighs the breakneck, I would -strongly recommend this route from Malaga in preference to the tamer, -somewhat better, and, perhaps, rather shorter road, that borders the -coast. - -The old and, alas! too celebrated castle of Fuengirola, or Frangirola, -occupies the point of a rocky tongue that juts some way into the sea, -about half a mile beyond the fishing village of the same name. It is a -work of the Moors, built, as some say, on an ancient foundation, -imagined to be that of Suel; whilst others maintain, that the vestigia -of antiquity built into its walls, were brought there from some place in -the neighbourhood. - -That _Suel_ did not stand here appears to me very evident; for though -the actual distance from Malaga to Fuengirola exceeds but little that -given in the Itinerary of Antoninus from Malaca to Suel, viz., -twenty-one miles--calculating seventy-five Roman miles to a degree of -the meridian;--yet, as the Itinerary makes the whole distance from -Malaca to Calpe Carteia eighty-nine miles,[172] whereas, even following -all the sinuosities of the coast, it can be eked out only to eighty (of -the above standard), it seems clear that the length of the mile has been -somewhat overrated. - -That I may not incur the reproach of "extreme confidence," in venturing -to publish an opinion differing from that of various learned antiquaries -who have written on the subject, I will endeavour to show that my doubt -has, at all events, some reasonable foundation to rest upon. - -Supposing that the distances given in the Itinerary between Malaca and -Calpe Carteia were respectively correct, but that the error--which, in -consequence, was evident--had been made by over-estimating the length of -the Roman mile in use at the period the Itinerary was compiled, I found, -by dividing the _actual_ distance into eighty-nine parts (following such -an irregular line as a road, considering the ruggedness of the country, -might be supposed to take), that it gave a scale of eighty-three and a -third of such divisions to a degree of the meridian; a scale which, as I -have observed in a former chapter, is mentioned by Strabo, on the -authority of Eratosthenes, as one in use amongst the Romans. - -Now, by measuring off twenty-one such parts along the indented line of -coast from Malaga westward, to fix the situation of Suel, I find that, -according to this scale, it would be placed about a mile beyond the -Torre Blanca; that is, at the commencement of the fertile valley, which -has been mentioned as stretching some way inland, and at the bottom of -the bay, of which the rocky ledge occupied by the castle of Fuengirola -forms the western boundary; certainly a much more suitable site, either -for a commercial city, or for a fortress, than the low, rocky headland -of Fuengirola, which neither affords enough space for a town to stand -upon, nor is sufficiently elevated above the adjacent country, to have -the command that was usually sought for in building fortresses previous -to the invention of artillery. - -Proceeding onwards, and measuring twenty-four divisions (of this same -scale) from the point where I suppose Suel to have stood, along the yet -rugged coast to the westward of Fuengirola, the site of Cilniana, the -next station of the Itinerary, is fixed a little beyond where the town -of Marbella now stands; another most probable spot for the Phoenicians -or Romans to have selected for a station; as, in the first place, the -proximity of the high, impracticable, Sierra de Juanel, would have -enabled a fortress there situated to intercept most completely the -communication along the coast; and, in the second, the vicinity of a -fertile plain, and the valuable mines of Istan (from whence a fine -stream flows), would have rendered it a desirable site for a port. - -The next distance, thirty-four miles to Barbariana, brings me to the -_mouth_ of the Guadiaro, (which _can be_ no other than the Barbesula of -the Romans, if we suppose that the road continued, as heretofore, along -the seashore); or, carries me across that river, and also the -Sogarganta, which falls into it, if, striking inland, _as soon as the -nature of the country permitted_, we imagine the road to have been -directed by the straightest line to its point of destination. - -Now, in the first case, the discovery of numerous vestigia, and -inscriptions at a spot two miles up from the mouth, on the eastern bank -of the Barbesula, (i. e. Guadiaro) have clearly proved that to be the -position of the city[173] bearing the same name as the river. We must -not, therefore, look in its neighbourhood for Barbariana; especially as -the vestiges of this ancient town are twelve _English_ miles from -Carteia, whereas the distance from Barbariana to Carteia is stated in -the Itinerary to be but ten _Roman_ miles. - -In the second case, having crossed the Sogarganta about a mile above its -confluence with the Guadiaro, we arrive, at the end of the prescribed -thirty-four miles from Cilniana, at the mouth of a steep ravine by which -the existing road from Gaucin and Casares to San Roque ascends the -chain of hills forming the southern boundary of the valley, and this -spot is not only well calculated for a military station, but exceeds by -very little the distance of ten miles to Carteia, specified in the -Itinerary. - -I suppose, therefore, that Barbariana stood here, where it would have -been on the most direct line that a road _could take_ between Estepona -and Carteia, as well as on that which presented the fewest difficulties -to be surmounted in the nature of the country. - -I will now follow the Roman Itinerary as laid down by Mr. Carter, in his -"Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga."[174] - -The first station, Suel, he fixes at the Castle of Fuengirola; the -second, Cilniana, at the ruins of what he calls Old Estepona. These he -describes as lying _three leagues_ to the eastward of the modern town of -that name, and upwards of a league to the westward of the Torre de las -Bovedas, in the vicinity of which he assumes Salduba stood; but this -very site of Salduba (i. e. the Torre de las Bovedas) is little more -than _two leagues_ from modern Estepona, being just half way between -that place and Marbella--the distance from the one town to the other -scarcely exceeding four leagues, or sixteen English miles--so that, in -point of fact, he fixes Cilniana at _four miles_ to the eastward of -Estepona, instead of three leagues. - -Passing over this error, however, and allowing that his site of Cilniana -was where _he wished it to be_, Mr. Carter, nevertheless, still found -himself in a difficulty; for he had already far exceeded the greater -portion of the _actual_ distance between Malaga and Carteia, although -but half the number of miles specified in the Itinerary were disposed -of; so that twenty-five miles measured along the coast now brought him -within the prescribed distance of Barbariana from Carteia (ten miles), -instead of thirty-four, as stated in the Itinerary! - -To extricate himself, therefore, from this dilemma, he carries the road, -first to the town of Barbesula, situated near the mouth of the river of -the same name, and then _eight miles up the stream_ to Barbariana. - -The objections to this most eccentric route are, however, manifold and -obvious. In the first place, had the road visited Barbesula, that town -would assuredly have been noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, because -it would have made so much more convenient a break in the distance -between Cilniana and Carteia, than Barbariana. - -In the next,--had the road been taken to the mouth of the Guadiaro, it -would _there_ have been as near Carteia as from any other point along -the course of that river, with nothing in the nature of the intervening -country to prevent its being carried straight across it: every step, -therefore, that the road was taken up the stream would have -unnecessarily increased the distance to be travelled. - -Thirdly,--had Barbariana been situated _eight miles_[175] up the river, -the road from Barbesula must not only have been carried that distance -out of the way to visit it, but, for the greater part of the way, must -actually have been led back again towards the point of the compass -whence it had been brought; and the town of Barbariana would thereby -have been situated nearly eighteen miles from Calpe Carteia, instead of -ten. - -Mr. Carter probably fell into this error, through ignorance of the -direction whence the Guadiaro flows, for though the last four miles of -its course is easterly, yet its previous direction is due south, or -straight upon Gibraltar; and, consequently, taking the road up the -stream beyond the distance of _four miles_, would have been leading it -away from its destination. And if, on the other hand, we suppose that -Mr. Carter's mistake be simply in the name of the river, and that, by -two leagues up the Guadiaro, he meant up its tributary, the -Sogarganta;[176] still, so long as the road continued following the -course of that stream, it would get no nearer to Carteia, and was, -therefore, but uselessly increasing the distance. - -It is quite unreasonable, however, to suppose that the Romans, who were -in the habit of making their roads as straight as possible, should have -so unnecessarily departed from their rule in this instance, and not only -have increased the distance by so doing, but also the difficulties to be -encountered; for, in point of fact, a road would be more readily carried -to the Guadiaro by leaving the seashore on approaching Manilba, and -directing it straight upon Carteia, than by continuing it along the -rugged and indented coast that presents itself from thence to the mouth -of the river. - -Objections may be taken to the sites I have fixed upon for the different -towns mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, from the absence of all vestiges -at those particular spots; but when the ease with which all traces of -ancient places are lost is considered, particularly those situated on -the seashore, I think such objections must fall to the ground: and, -indeed, Carter himself, who found fault with Florez for supposing the -town of Salduba[177] _could_ have entirely disappeared, furnishes a -glaring instance of the futility of such objections, when he states that -not the least remains of Barbesula were to be traced, whereas, _now_, -they are quite visible. - -The castle of Fuengirola--to which it is time to return from this long -digression--has lately undergone a thorough repair; the whole of the -western front, indeed, has been rebuilt, and the rest of the walls have -been modernised, though they still continue to be badly flanked by small -projecting square towers, and are exposed to their very foundations, so -that the fortress _ought not_ to withstand even a couple of hours' -battering. - -From hence to Marbella is four leagues. During the first, the road is -bad enough, and, for the remaining three, but indifferently good. The -last eight miles of the stony track may, however, be avoided by riding -along the sandy beach, which, when the sun is on the decline, the breeze -light and westerly, and, above all, when the _tide is out_, is pleasant -enough. I may as well observe here, that the Mediterranean Sea really -does ebb and flow, notwithstanding anything others may have stated to -the contrary. - -The whole line of coast bristles with towers, built originally to give -intelligence by signal of the appearance of an enemy. They are of all -shapes and ages; some circular, having a Roman look; others angular, and -either Moorish, or built after Saracenic models; many are of -comparatively recent construction, though all seem equally to be going -to decay. - -These towers can be entered only by means of ladders, and such as are in -a habitable state are occupied by Custom-house guards, or, more -correctly, Custom-house defrauders. Here and there a _Casa fuerta_ has -been erected along the line, which, furnished with artillery and a small -garrison of regular troops, serves as a _point d'appui_ to a certain -portion of the _peculative_ cordon, enabling the soldiers to render -assistance to the revenue officers in bringing the smugglers to _terms_. - -Marbella has ever been a bone of contention amongst the antiquaries; -some asserting that it does not occupy the site of any ancient city; -others, that it is on the ruins of _Salduba_. Of this latter opinion is -La Martinière, who certainly has better reason for maintaining than -Carter for disputing it. For if that city "stood on a steep headland, -between which and the hill" (behind) "not a beast could pass," it could -not possibly have been on the site where our countryman places it, viz., -at the ruins near the _Torre de las Bovedas_ (seven miles to the -westward), where a wide plain stretches inland upwards of two miles. - -In fact, there are but two headlands between the river Guadiaro and -Marbella, where a town could be built at all answering the foregoing -description; namely, at the _Torre de la Chullera_ and the _Torre del -Arroyo Vaquero_, the former only three, the latter ten miles from the -Guadiaro: and a far more likely spot than either of these is the knoll -occupied by the _Torre del Rio Real_, about two miles to the _eastward_ -of Marbella.[178] - -Marbella stands slightly elevated above the sea, and its turreted walls -and narrow streets declare it to be thoroughly Moorish. Its sea-wall is -not actually washed by the waves of the Mediterranean, so that the town -may be avoided by such as do not wish to be delayed by or subjected to -the nuisance of a passport scrutiny; and the Spanish saying, "_Marbella -es bella, pero no entras en ella_,"[179] significantly, though -mysteriously, suggests the prudence of staying outside its walls; but -this poetical scrap of advice was perhaps the only thing some luckless -_contrabandista_ had left to bestow upon his countrymen, and we, being -in search of a dinner and night's lodging, submitted patiently to the -forms and ceremonies prescribed on such occasions at the gates of a -fortress. - -To do the Spaniards justice, they are not usually very long in their -operations, the first offer being in most instances accepted without -haggling; and accordingly, the _peseta_ pocketed, and every thing -pronounced _corriente_, we proceeded without further obstruction to the -_Posada de la Corona_, which, situated in a fine airy square, we were -agreeably surprised to find a remarkably good inn. - -Marbella, though invested with the pomp and circumstance of war, is but -a contemptible fortress. An old Moorish castle, standing in the very -heart of the town, constitutes its chief strength; for, though its -circumvallation is complete and tolerably erect, considering its great -age, yet, from the inconsiderable height of the walls, and the -inefficient flanking fire that protects them, they could offer but -slight resistance to an enemy. - -A detached fort, that formerly covered the place from attack on the sea -side, and flanked the eastern front of the enceinte of the town, has -been razed to the ground, so that ships may now attack it almost with -impunity. - -The town is particularly clean and well inhabited, the fishing portion -of the population being located more conveniently for their occupation -in a large suburb on its eastern side. The fortress encloses several -large churches and religious houses, besides the citadel or Moorish -castle, so that within the walls the space left for streets is but -small; the inhabitants of the town itself cannot therefore be estimated -at more than five thousand, whilst those of the suburb may probably -amount to fifteen hundred. - -The trade of Marbella is but trifling; the fruit and vegetables grown in -its neighbourhood are, it is true, particularly fine, but the proximity -of the precipitous Sierra de Juanal limits cultivation to a very narrow -circuit round the walls of the town; and, on the other hand, the -valuable mines in the vicinity, which formerly secured Marbella a -prosperous trade, have for many years been totally abandoned: so that, -in fact, there is little else than fish to export. - -There is no harbour, but vessels find excellent holding ground and in -deep water, close to the shore; the landing also is good, being on a -fine hard sand, and I found a small pier in progress of construction. - -It seems probable that in remote times numerous commercial towns were -situated along the coast, between Malaca and Calpe, whence a thriving -trade was carried on with the East, for the whole chain of mountains -bordering the Mediterranean abounds in metallic ores, especially along -that part of the coast between Marbella and Estepona; and it is evident -that mining operations on an extensive scale were formerly carried on -here, since the tumuli formed by the earth excavated in searching for -the precious metals are yet to be seen, as well as the bleached -channels by which the water that penetrated into the mines was led down -the sides of the mountains. - -The metals contained in this range of mountains are, principally, -silver, copper, lead, and iron; of the two former I have seen some very -fine specimens. - -The richness and comparative proximity of these mines led the -Phoenicians and Romans, by whom there is no doubt they were worked, to -neglect the copper mines of Cornwall; for, whilst necessity obliged them -to come to England for tin, it is observable that in many places, where, -in working for that metal, they came also upon lodes of copper, they -carried away the tin only; a circumstance that has rendered some of the -recently worked Cornish copper mines singularly profitable, and leads -naturally to the supposition that the ancients procured copper at a less -expense from some other country. - -In the same way that the old Roman mines in England, from our knowledge -of the vast power of steam, and of the means of applying that power to -hydraulical purposes, have been reopened with great advantage, so also -might those of Spain be again worked with a certainty of success. -Capital and security--the two great wants of Spain--are required however -to enable adventurers to embark in the undertaking. - -Marbella is four leagues from Estepona, and ten from Gibraltar; but -though the first four may be reckoned at the usual rate of four miles -each, yet the remaining six cannot be calculated under four and a half -each, making the whole distance to Gibraltar forty-three miles, and from -Malaga to Gibraltar seventy-nine miles.[180] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - A PROVERB NOT TO BE LOST SIGHT OF WHILST TRAVELLING IN SPAIN--ROAD - TO MONDA--SECLUDED VALLEY OF OJEN--- MONDA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF THE ROMAN CITY OF MUNDA--IDEAS OF MR. CARTER - ON THE SUBJECT--REASONS ADDUCED FOR CONCLUDING THAT MODERN MONDA - OCCUPIES THE SITE OF THE ANCIENT CITY--ASSUMED POSITIONS OF THE - CONTENDING ARMIES OF CNEIUS POMPEY AND CÆSAR, IN THE VICINITY OF - THE TOWN--ROAD TO MALAGA--TOWNS OF COIN AND ALHAURIN--BRIDGE OVER - THE GUADALJORCE--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR--NOTABLE INSTANCE OF THE - ABSURDITY OF QUARANTINE REGULATIONS. - - -"_Mas vale paxaro en mano, que buytre volando_"--_Anglicè_, a bird in -the hand is worth more than a vulture flying--is a proverb that cannot -be too strongly impressed upon the minds of travellers in Spain; and, -acting up to the spirit of this wise saw, we did not leave our -comfortable quarters at the _Posada de la Corona_ until after having -made sure of a breakfast. For, deeming even a cup of milk at Marbella -worth more than a herd of goats up the sierra, there appeared yet more -reason to think that no venta on the unfrequented mountain track by -which we purposed returning to Malaga could furnish anything half so -estimable as the _café au lait_ promised overnight, and placed before us -soon after daybreak. - -We commenced ascending the steep side of the _Sierra de Juanal_ -immediately on leaving Marbella, and, in something under an hour, -reached a pass, on the summit of a ridge, whence a lovely view opens to -the north. The little town of Ojen lies far down below, embosomed in a -thicket of walnut, chesnut, and orange trees; whilst all around rise -lofty sierras, clothed, like the valley, with impervious woods, though -with foliage of a darker hue, their forest covering consisting -principally of cork and ilex. Numerous torrents, (whose foaming streams -can only occasionally be seen dashing from rock to rock amidst the dense -foliage) furrow the sides of the impending ridges, directing their -course towards the little village, threatening, seemingly, to overwhelm -it by their united strength; but, wasting their force against the -cragged knoll on which it stands, they collect in one body at its foot, -and, as if exhausted by the struggle, flow thenceforth tranquilly -towards the Mediterranean, meandering through rich vineyards, and under -verdant groves of arbutus, orange, and oleander. - -Excepting by this outlet, along the precipitous edge of which our road -was practised, there seemed to be no possibility of leaving the sylvan -valley, so completely is it hemmed in by wood and mountain. The descent -from the pass occupied nearly as much time as had been employed in -clambering up to it from the sea-coast, but the road is better. - -The situation of the little town, on the summit of a scarped rock, -clustered over with ivy and wild vines, and moistened by the spray of -the torrents that rush down on either side, is most romantic; the place, -however, is miserable in the extreme, containing some two hundred -wretched hovels, mostly mud-built, and huddled together as if for mutual -support. - -An ill-conditioned _pavé_ zigzags up to it, and proceeds onwards along -the edge of a deep ravine towards Monda. The woods, rocks, and water -afford ever-varying and enchanting vistas, but, from the vile state of -the road, it is somewhat dangerous to pay much attention to the beauties -of nature. - -In something more than an hour from Ojen, we reached a pass in the -northern part of the mountain-belt that girts it in, whence we took a -last lingering look at the lovely valley, compared to which the country -now lying before us appeared tame and arid. - -The fall of the mountain on the western side is much more gradual than -towards the Mediterranean, and the road--which does not however improve -in due proportion--descends by an easy slope towards the little river -Seco. The valley, at first, is wide, open, and uncultivated; but, at the -end of about a mile, it contracts to an inconsiderable breadth, and the -steep hills that border it give signs of the husbandman's toils, being -every where planted with vines and olive trees. - -Arriving now at the margin of the _Seco_, the road crosses and recrosses -the rivulet repeatedly, in consequence of the rugged nature of its -banks, and, at length, quitting the pebbly bed of the stream, and -crossing over a lofty mountain ridge that overlooks it to the east, the -stony track brings us to Monda, which is nestled in a deep ravine on the -opposite side of the mountain, and commanded by an old castle situated -on a rocky knoll to the north-west. - -The view from the summit of this mountain is very extensive, embracing -the greater portion of the _Hoya_ de Malaga, the distant sea-bound city, -and yet more remote sierras of Antequera, Alhama, and Granada. The -descent to Monda is extremely bad, though by no means rapid. The -distance of this place from Marbella is stated in the Spanish -Itineraries to be three leagues, but the incessant windings of the road -make it fourteen miles, at least. The houses of Monda are mostly poor, -though some of the streets are wide and good. The population is -estimated at 2,000 souls. - -It is to this day a mooted question amongst Spanish antiquaries whether -Monda, or Ronda _la Vieja_, (as some of them call the ruins of -Acinippo), or any other of several supposed places, be the Roman -_Munda_, where Cneius Scipio gave battle to the Carthaginian generals, -Mago and Asdrubal, B.C. 211, and near whose walls Julius Cæsar concluded -his wonderful career of victory by the defeat of Cneius Pompey the -younger, B.C. 42. - -From this discrepancy of opinion, and the inaccuracy of the Spanish -maps, I am induced to offer the following observations (the result of a -careful examination of the country), touching the site of this once -celebrated spot. And, first, with respect to Ronda and Ronda _la Vieja_, -I may repeat what I have already stated in a former chapter, that -neither the situation of those places, nor the nature of the ground in -their vicinity, agrees in any one respect with the description of Munda -and its battle-field, as given by Hirtius;[181] nor, from discoveries -that have recently been made, does there appear to be any ground left -for doubting that those places occupy the sites of Arunda and Acinippo. - -Of the other positions which have been assigned to _Munda_, that most -insisted upon is a spot "three leagues to the _west_ of the present town -of Monda,"[182] and here Carter, adopting the opinion of Don Diego -Mendoza, confidently places it, stating that bones of men and horses -had, in former days, been dug up there; that the peasants called the -spot _Monda la Vieja_, and averred they sometimes saw squadrons of -apparitions fighting in the air with cries and shouts! - -Such a host of circumstantial and phantasmagorical evidence our -countryman considered irresistible, and concluded, accordingly, that -this spot could be no other than that whereon the two mighty Roman -armies contended for empire. He admits, however, that, even in the days -of his precursor, Don Diego, "scarcely any ruins were to be found, the -_whole_ having by degrees been transplanted to modern Monda and other -places." Why they should have been carried three leagues across some of -the loftiest mountains in the country, to be used merely as building -stones, he does not attempt to explain, but, believing such to be the -case, one wonders it never struck him as being somewhat extraordinary -that these pugnacious ghosts should continue fighting for a town of -which not a stone remains. - -But, leaving Mr. Carter for the present, I will retrace my steps to -modern Monda, where it must be acknowledged some little difficulty is -experienced in fitting the Roman city to the spot allotted to it on the -maps, as well as in placing the contending armies upon the ground in its -neighbourhood, so as to agree with the order in which they were arrayed -on the authority of Hirtius. Still, with certain admissions, which -admissions I do not consider it by any means unreasonable to beg, all -apparent discrepancies may be reconciled and difficulties overcome; and, -on the other hand, unless these points be granted, Ronda, Gaucin, or -Gibraltar agree just as well with the Munda of the Roman historian as -the little town of Monda I am about to describe. - -It will be necessary, however, for the perfect understanding of the -subject,--and, I trust, my endeavour to establish the site of Cæsar's -last battle-field will be considered one of sufficient interest to -warrant a little prolixity,--to take a glance at the country in the -vicinity of Monda, ere proceeding to describe the actual ground whereon, -according to my idea, the contending armies were drawn up; as it is only -from a knowledge of the country, and of the communications that -intersected it, that the reasons can be gathered for such a spot having -been selected for a field of battle. - -The old castle of Monda, under the walls of which we must suppose--for -this is one of the premised admissions--the town to have been clustered, -instead of being, as at present, sunk in a ravine, stands on the eastern -side of a rocky ridge, projected in a northerly direction from the lofty -and wide-spreading mountain-range, that borders the Mediterranean -between Malaga and Estepona. This range is itself a ramification of the -great mountain-chain that encircles the basin of Ronda, from which it -branches off in a southerly direction, and under the names of Sierras of -Tolox, Blanca, Arboto, and Juanal, presents an almost impassable barrier -between the valley of the Rio Verde (which falls into the Mediterranean, -three miles west of Marbella), and the fertile plains bordering the -Guadaljorce. - -This steep and difficult ridge terminates precipitously about Marbella; -but another branch of the range, sweeping round the little town of Ojen, -turns back for some miles to the north, rises in two lofty peaks above -Monda, and then, taking an easterly direction, juts into the -Mediterranean at Torre Molinos. The towns of Coin and Alhaurin are -situated, like Monda, on rocky projections from the north side of this -range, overhanging the vale of Malaga; and the solitary town of Mijas -stands upon its southern acclivity, looking towards the sea. - -The rugged ramification on which Monda is situated stretches north about -two miles from the double-peaked sierra above mentioned; and though -completely overlooked by that mountain, yet, in every other direction, -it commands all the ground in its immediate neighbourhood, and, without -being very elevated, is every where steep, and difficult of access. The -summit of the ridge is indented by various rounded eminences, and, -consequently, is of very unequal breadth, as well as height. The castle -of Monda stands on one of these knolls, but quite on the eastern side of -the hill, the breadth of which, in this place, scarcely exceeds 400 -yards. At its furthest extremity, however, the ridge, which extends -northward, _nearly a mile_, beyond the town, sends out a spur to the -east, following the course of, and falling abruptly to the Rio Seco; and -the breadth of the hill may here be said to be increased to nearly two -miles. - -Between the river Seco and the Rio Grande (a more considerable stream, -which runs nearly parallel to, and about seven miles from the Seco), the -country, though rudely moulded, is by no means lofty; but round the -sources of the latter river, and along its left bank, rise the huge -sierras of Junquera, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, closing the view from -Monda to the north. - -From the description here given it will be apparent, that the -communications across so mountainous a country must not only be few, but -very bad. Such, indeed, is the asperity of the sierras west of Monda, -that no road whatever leads through them; and, to the south, but one -tolerable road presents itself to cross the lateral ridge, bordering the -Mediterranean, between Marbella and Torre Molinos, viz., that by which -we had traversed it. - -Even on the other half circle round Monda, where the country is of a -more practicable nature, only two roads afford the means of access to -that town, viz., one from Guaro, where the different routes from Ronda -(by Junquera), El Burgo, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, unite; the other -from Coin, upon which place, from an equal necessity, those from Alora, -Antequera, and Malaga, are first directed. - -Monda thus becomes the point of concentration of all the roads -proceeding from the inland towns to Marbella; the pass of Ojen, in its -rear, offering the only passage through the mountains to reach that -city. - -The road from this pass, as has already been described, approaches Monda -by the valley watered by the river Seco; which stream, directed in the -early part of its course by the Sierra de Monda on its right, flows -nearly due north for about a mile and a half beyond where the road to -Monda leaves its bank, receiving in its progress several tributary -streams that rise in the mountains on its left. On gaining the northern -extremity of the ridge of Monda, the rivulet winds round to the -eastward, still washing the base of that mountain, but leaving the hilly -country on its left bank, along which a plain thenceforth stretches for -several miles. The stream again, however, becomes entangled in some -broken and intricate country, ere reaching the wide plain of the -Guadaljorce, into which river it finally empties itself. - -The situation of Monda, with reference to the surrounding country, -having now been fully described, it is necessary, ere proceeding to shew -that the ground in its neighbourhood answers perfectly the account given -of it by Hirtius, to offer some remarks on the causes that may be -supposed to have led to a collision between the hostile Roman armies on -such a spot, since the present unimportant position of Monda seems to -render such an event very improbable. - -Cæsar, it would appear, after the fall of Ategua, proceeded to lay siege -to Ventisponte and Carruca--two places, whose positions have baffled the -researches of the most learned antiquaries to determine--his object, -evidently, having been to induce Pompey to come to their relief. His -adversary, however, was neither to be forced nor tempted to depart from -his politic plan of "drawing the war out into length;" but, retiring -into the mountains, compelled Cæsar, whose interest it was, on the other -hand, to bring the contest to as speedy an issue as possible, to follow -him into a more defensible country. - -With this view, leaving the wide plain watered by the Genil and -Guadaljorce on the northern side of the mountains, Pompey, we may -imagine, retired towards the Mediterranean, and stationed himself at -Monda; a post that not only afforded him a formidable defensive -position, but that gave him the means of resuming hostilities at -pleasure, since it commanded the roads from Cartama to Hispalis -(Seville), by way of Ronda, and from Malaca, along the Mediterranean -shore, to Carteía,[183] where his fleet lay; and, should his adversary -not follow him, the situation thus fixed upon was admirably adapted for -carrying the war into the country in arms against him, the two opulent -cities of Cartama and Malaca (which there is every reason to conclude -were attached to the cause of Cæsar), being within a day's march of -Monda. - -Here, therefore, Pompey occupied a strategical point of great -importance; and Cæsar, fully aware of the advantage its possession gave -his opponent, determined to attack him at all risks. - -The hostile armies were separated from each other by a plain five miles -in extent.[184] That of Cæsar was drawn up in this plain, his cavalry -posted on the left; whilst the army of Pompey, whose cavalry was -stationed on _both_ wings, occupied a strong position on a range of -mountains, protected on one side by the town of Munda, "_situated on an -eminence_;" on the other, by the nature of the ground, "_for across this -valley_" (i.e. that divided the two armies), "_ran a rivulet, which -rendered the approach to the mountain extremely difficult, because it -formed a morass on the right_." - -Now although the town of Munda is here described as protecting Pompey's -army on one side, yet from what follows it must be inferred that it was -some distance in the rear of his position, since, not only is it stated -that "_Pompey's army was at length obliged to give ground and retire -towards the town_," but it may be taken for granted that, had either -flank rested upon the town, the cavalry would _not_ have been posted on -"_both wings_." - -Moreover, it is stated that "_Cæsar made no doubt but that the enemy -would descend to the plain and come to battle_," the superiority of -cavalry being greatly on Pompey's side--"_but_," Hirtius proceeds to -say, "_they durst not advance a mile from the town_," and, in spite of -the advantageous opportunity offered them, "_still kept their post on -the mountain in the neighbourhood of the town_." - -It may therefore be fairly concluded, that Pompey's position was on the -edge of a range of hills, some little distance in advance of the town of -Munda, having a stream running in a deep valley along its front, and a -morass on one flank. Now the question is, Can the ground about Monda be -made to agree with these various premises? Certainly not, if, as is -generally assumed, the battle was fought on the eastern side of the -town; for Pompey's position must, in that case, have extended along the -ridge, so as to have the peaked Sierra, above Monda, on its right, and -the river Seco on its left, whilst Monda itself would have been an -advanced post of the line; and so far from there being a plain "_five -miles_" in extent in front, the country to the east of Monda--though for -some way but slightly marked--is, at the distance of _two_ miles, so -abruptly broken as to render the drawing up of a Roman army impossible. - -In addition to these objections it will be obvious that the half of -Pompey's cavalry on the right, would have been posted on a high -mountain, where it could not possibly act, whilst the whole of Cæsar's -(on his left), would have been paralyzed by having to manoeuvre on the -acclivity of a steep mountain and against a fortified town, instead of -being kept in the valley of the river Seco, ready to fall upon the weak -part of the enemy's line as soon as it should be broken. - -What, however, seems to me to be fatal to the supposition that this was -the side of the town on which the battle was fought is, that Cæsar's -army would have occupied the road by which alone the small portion of -Pompey's army, that escaped, could have retired upon Cordoba. - -Against the supposition that the battle took place on the _western_ side -of the ridge on which Monda is situated, the objections, though not so -numerous, are equally insurmountable; since there is nothing like a -plain whereon Cæsar's army could have been drawn up; the valley of the -river Seco being so circumscribed that, for Pompey's army to have -"_advanced a mile from Monda_," it must not only have crossed the -stream, but mounted the rough hills that there border its left bank; -whereas Cæsar's army is stated to have been posted in a plain that -extended five miles from Monda. The half of Pompey's cavalry on the -_left_ would, in this case also, have been uselessly posted on an -eminence. In other respects the supposition is admissible enough, since -Monda would have been in the rear of the left of Pompey's position, but -still a support to the line, and the whole front would have been -"_difficult of approach_," and along the course of a rivulet. - -We will now examine the ground to the north of the town, to which it -strikes me no insuperable objections can be raised. - -We may suppose that Pompey took post with his army fronting Toloz and -Guaro, the only direction in which his enemy could be looked for, and -where the ground is so little broken, as certainly to allow of its being -called _a plain_, as compared with the rugged country that encompasses -it on all sides; and his position would naturally have been taken up -along the edge of the last ramification of the ridge of Monda, which -extends about two miles from west to east along the right bank of the -river Seco. - -The town would then have been half a mile or so _in rear_ of the left -centre of Pompey's position; _a rivulet_, "_rendering the approach of -the mountain difficult_," would have run along its front. His cavalry -would naturally have been disposed on _both flanks_, where, the hills -terminating, it would be most at hand either to act offensively, or for -the security of the position; and the cavalry of Cæsar, on the contrary, -would _all_ have been posted on _his_ left, where the access to Pompey's -position was easiest, and where, in case of his enemy's defeat, its -presence would have produced the most important results. - -We may readily conceive, also, that in times past _a morass_ bordered -the Seco where it first enters the plain, since several mountain streams -there join it, whose previously rapid currents must have experienced a -check on reaching this more level country. The industrious Moslems, -probably, by bringing this fertile plain into cultivation, drained the -morass so that no traces of it are now perceptible, but twenty years -hence there may possibly be another. - -Every condition required, therefore, to make the ground agree with the -description given of it by Hirtius, is here fulfilled; and, occupying -such a position, the army of Pompey seemed likely to obtain the ends -which we cannot but suppose its general had in view. - -The objections of Mr. Carter to modern Monda being the site of the Roman -city are, first, the want of space in its vicinity for two such vast -hosts to be drawn up in battle array; and, secondly, the little distance -of the existing town from the river Sigila and city of Cártama, which, -according to an ancient inscription, referring to the repairs of a road -from Munda to Cártama, he states was twenty miles. - -In consequence of these imaginary discrepancies, he suffered himself to -be persuaded that the spot where the apparitions are fighting "three -leagues to the westward of the modern town," is the site of the Roman -_Munda_. In which case it must have been situated in a _narrow valley_, -bounded on all sides by lofty mountains, and _twenty-eight_ Roman miles, -at least, from the city of Cártama! - -With respect to his first objections, however, it may be observed, that -the _want of space_ can only apply to the army posted on the mountain, -for, on the level country between its base and the village of Guaro, an -army of any amount might be drawn up. And as regards the mountain, as I -have already stated, its north front offers a strong position, nearly -two miles in extent, and one in depth. Now, considering the compact -order in which Roman armies were formed; the number of lines in which -they were in the habit of being drawn up; and making due allowance for -exaggeration[185] in the number of the contending hosts; such a space, I -should say, was more than sufficient for Pompey's army. - -In reply to the second objection urged by Mr. Carter, I may, in the -first place, observe, that the inscription whereon it is grounded-- - - * * * * * - - A MVNDA ET FLVVIO SIGILA - AD CERTIMAM VSQVE XX M.P.P.S. RESTITVIT.[186]-- - -seems to have no reference to the actual distance between Munda and -Cártama, since, by attaching any such meaning to it--coupled as Munda -is with the river Sigila--the inscription, to one acquainted with the -country, becomes quite unintelligible. - -Thus, if translated: "From Munda and the river Sigila, he (i. e. the -Emperor Hadrian) restored the twenty miles of road to Cártama," any one -would naturally conclude that Munda was upon the Sigila, and Cártama at -a distance of twenty miles from it; whereas, whatever may have been the -situation of Munda, Cártama certainly stood upon the very bank of the -river. - -It must, therefore, either have been intended to imply that the Emperor -restored twenty miles of a road which from Munda and the sources,[187] -or upper part of the course of the Sigila, led to Cártama, and various -traces of such a Roman road exist to this day on the road to Ronda by -Junquera; or, that the road from Munda was conducted along part of the -course of the Sigila ere it reached Cártama: and such, from the nature -of the ground, undoubtedly was the case, since Cártama stood at the -eastern foot of a steep mountain, the northern extremity of which must -(in military parlance) have been turned, to reach it from Monda, and the -road, in making this détour, would first reach the river Guadaljorce, or -Sigila. - -In this case it must be admitted that the _twenty miles_ refer to the -actual distance between the two towns, and this tends only more firmly -to establish modern Monda on the site of the Roman town, since the -distance from thence to Cártama, measured with _a pair of compasses_ on -a _correct_ map,[188] is fourteen English miles, which are equal to -fifteen Roman of seventy-five to a degree, or seventeen of eighty-three -and one third to a degree; and considering the hilly nature of the -country which the road must unavoidably have traversed, the distance -would have been fully increased to twenty miles, either by the ascents -and descents if carried in a straight line from place to place, or by -describing a very circuitous course if taken along the valley of the Rio -Seco. - -Carter further remarked upon the foregoing inscription that "it seems to -place" Munda to the _west_ of the river Sigila, which ran _between_ that -town and Cártama; but this, he said, does not agree with the situation -of modern Monda, which is on the same side the river as Cártama. - -I suppose for _west_ he meant to say _east_, but, in either case, his -assumed site for Munda, "three leagues to the west of the present town," -is open to this very same objection, and to the yet graver one, of -being--even allowing that he meant English leagues--_twenty-three -English miles_ in a _direct_ line from the town of Cártama, and in a -contracted and secluded valley, to the possession of which, no military -importance could possibly have been attached. - -On the whole, therefore, I see no reason to doubt what, for so many -years was looked upon as certain, viz., that the modern town of Monda is -on the site of the ancient city. I must nevertheless own that in -following strictly the text of Hirtius, an objection presents itself to -this spot with reference to the relative position of Ursao; that is, if -Osuna be Ursao; since, in allusion to Pompey's resolve to receive battle -at Munda, he says that Ursao "served as a sure resource _behind_ -him."[189] - -This objection holds equally good with the position Carter assigns to -Munda; but that there is some error respecting Ursao is evident, for, if -Osuna be Ursao, then Hirtius described it most incorrectly by saying it -was exceedingly strong by nature, and eight miles distant from any -rivulet.[190] And, on the other hand, it is clear that Ursao did _not_ -serve as a _sure_ resource to Pompey, since no part of his defeated army -found refuge there. - -We must read this passage, therefore, as implying rather that Pompey -_calculated_ on Orsao as a place of refuge, but that, by the able -manoeuvres of his adversary, he was cut off from it. Now a town -placed high up in the mountains like Alozaina, or Junquera, and like -them distant from any stream but that which rises within their walls, -answers the description of Orsao, much better than Osuna;[191] and, -supposing one of these, or any other town in the vicinity, similarly -situated, to have been Orsao, Pompey might have flattered himself that -he could fall back upon it in the event of being defeated at Monda. -Cæsar, however, by moving along the valley of the Seco, and, taking post -in the plain to the north of Pompey's position, effectually deprived him -of this resource. - -The modern town of Monda contains numerous fragments of monuments, -inscriptions, &c., which, though none of them actually prove it to be on -the site of the ancient place of the same name, satisfactorily shew that -it stands near some old Roman town, and that, therefore, to call it -_new_ Monda, in contradistinction to _Monda la vieja_, is absurd. - -The road to Coin traverses a succession of tongues, which, protruding -from the side of the steep Sierra de Monda on the right, fall gradually -towards the Rio Seco, which flows about a mile off on the left. For the -first three miles the undulations are very gentle, and the face of the -country is covered with corn, but, on arriving at the Peyrela, a rapid -stream that rushes down from the mountains in a deep rocky gully, the -ground becomes much more broken, and the hills on both sides are thickly -wooded. The road, nevertheless, continues very good, and in about two -miles more reaches Coin. - -The approach to this town is very beautiful. It is situated some way up -the northern acclivity of a high wooded hill, and commands a splendid -view of the valley of the Guadaljorce. - -Coin is supposed to be of Moorish origin, and, from the amenity of its -situation, abundance of crystal springs and fruitfulness of its -orchards, was, no doubt, a favourite place of retreat with the turbaned -conquerors of Spain. Nor are its merits altogether lost upon the present -less contemplative race of inhabitants, for they flee to its pure -atmosphere whenever any endemic disease frightens them from the close -and crowded streets of filthy Malaga. - -During the last few years that the divided Moslems yet endeavoured to -struggle against the fate that too clearly awaited them, the fields of -Coin were doomed to repeated devastations, though the city itself still -set the Christian hosts at defiance; but at length the artillery of -Ferdinand and Isabella reduced it to submission, A.D. 1485. - -The population of Coin is estimated by the Spanish authorities at 9000 -souls, but I should say it is considerably less. The houses are good, -streets well paved, and the place altogether is clean and wholesome. - -The posada, except in outward appearance, is not in keeping with the -town. It is a large white-washed building, with great pretensions and -small comfort. We left it at daybreak without the least regret, carrying -our breakfast with us to enjoy _al fresco_. - -At the foot of the hill two roads to Malaga offer themselves, one by way -of Cártama (distant ten miles), which turns the Sierra Gibalgalía to the -north, the other by Alhaurin, which crosses the neck of land connecting -that mountain with the more lofty sierras to the south. The distance is -pretty nearly the same by both, and is reckoned five leagues, but the -_leguas_ are any thing but _regulares_, and may be taken at an average -of four miles and a half each. The first named is a carriage road, and -the country flat nearly all the way; we therefore chose the latter, as -likely to be more picturesque. - -In about an hour from Coin, we reached a clear stream, which, confined -in a deep gulley, singularly scooped out of the solid rock, winds round -at the back of Alhaurin, and tumbles over a precipice on the side of the -impending mountain. The crystal clearness of the water and beauty of -the spot, tempted us to halt and spread the contents of our alforjas on -the green bank of the rivulet, though the white houses of Alhaurin, -situated immediately above, peeped out from amidst trelissed vines and -perfumed orange groves, seeming to beckon us on. But appearances are -proverbially deceitful all over the world, and more especially in -Spanish towns, as we had recently experienced at Coin. - -Our repast finished, we remounted our horses, and ascended the steep -acclivity, on the lap of which the town stands. The environs are -beautifully wooded, and the place contains many tasteful houses and -gardens, wide, clean, and well-paved streets, abundance of refreshing -fountains, and groves of orange and other fruit trees, and, in fact, is -a most delightful place of abode. The view from it is yet finer than -from Coin, embracing, besides the fine chain of wooded sierras above -Alozaina and Casarabonela, the lower portion of the vale of Malaga, and -the splendid mountains that stretch into the Mediterranean beyond that -city. Nevertheless, in spite of these advantages, the scared -_Malagueños_ consider Coin a more secure retreat from the dreaded yellow -fever than Alhaurin, perhaps because from the former even the view of -their abandoned city is intercepted. - -Alhaurin contains, probably, 5000 inhabitants. The road from thence to -Malaga is _carriageable_ throughout. It winds along the side of the -mountain, continuing nearly on a dead level from the town to the summit -of the pass that connects the Sierra Gibalgalía with the mountains of -Mijas; thence it descends gradually, by a long and rather confined -ravine, into the vale of Malaga. - -Arrived in the plain, it leaves the little village of Alhaurinejo about -half a mile off on the right, and at thirteen miles from Alhaurin -reaches a bridge over the Guadaljorce. This bridge, commenced on a -magnificent scale by one of the bishops of Malaga, was to have been -built entirely of stone; but, before the work was half completed, either -the worthy dignitary of the church came to the last of his days, or to -the bottom of his purse, and it is left to be completed, "_con el -tiempo_"--a very celebrated Spanish bridge-maker. - -Forty-four solid stone piers remain, however, to bear witness to the -good and liberal intentions of the bishop; and the weight of a rotten -wooden platform, which has since been laid down, to afford a passage -across the stream when swollen by the winter torrents, for at most other -times it is fordable. - -A road to the Retiro and Churriana continues down the right bank of the -river; but that to Malaga crosses the bridge, and on gaining the left -bank of the river is joined by the roads from Casarabonda and Cártama. -From hence to Malaga is about five miles. - -On arriving at Malaga we found the dread of cholera had attained such a -height during our short absence, that the _Xebeque_, for Ceuta, had -sailed, whilst clean bills of health were yet issued. We also thought it -advisable to save our passports from being tainted, and, without further -loss of time, departed for Gibraltar by land. Our haste, however, booted -us but little; for, amongst the absurdities of quarantine be it -recorded, on reaching the British fortress, on the morning of the third -day from Malaga, admittance was refused, until we had undergone a three -days' purification at San Roque. Thither we repaired, therefore; and -there we remained during the prescribed period, shaking hands daily with -our friends from the garrison, until the dreaded _virus_ was supposed to -have parted with all its infectious properties. Our _decorated_ -attendant had left us on reaching Malaga, promising to take the earliest -opportunity of acquainting us with the result of an ordeal, to which the -little blind God, in one of his most capricious moods, had been pleased -to subject two of his votaries. - -The circumstances attending this trial of _true love_, will be found -related in the following chapter, which contains also a sketch of the -previous history of the hero of the tale, the knight of San Fernando. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -THE KNIGHT OF SAN FERNANDO. - - -_Don Fernando Septimo, por la gracia de Dios, rey de Castilla, de Leon, -de Aragon, de las dos Sicilias, de Jerusalem, de Navarra, de Granada, de -Toledo, de Valencia, de Galicia, de Mallorca, de Sevilla, de Cerdeña, de -Cordoba, de Corcega, de Murcia, de Jaen, de los Algarbes, de Algeciras, -de Gibraltar, de las islas de Canaria, de las Indias Orientales y -Occidentales, islas y tierra ferme del Mar Oceano; archiduque de -Austria; duque de Borgoña, de Brabante y de Milan; conde de Absparg, -Flandes, Tirol y Barcelona; señor de Viscaya y de Molina,[192] &c._ - -Such was the heading of the document which conferred the honour of -knighthood (silver cross of the first class of the royal and military -order of St. Ferdinand), upon _Don_ Antonio Condé, a soldier of the -light company (cazadores) of the Queen's, or second regiment of the -line, in acknowledgment of his distinguished services against the -_revolutionarios_ of the _isla de Leon_, who surrendered at Bejer on the -8th March, 1831. - -The bearer of this _certificate_ of gallant conduct--for the -gratification that its possession afforded his vanity was the only sense -in which it could be considered a _reward_--was in person rather below -the usual stature of the Andalusian peasantry; but his square shoulders, -open chest, and muscular limbs, bespoke him to be possessed of more than -their wonted strength and activity. - -In other respects too he differed somewhat from his countrymen, his hair -being light, even lighter than what they call _castaños_, or chestnut, -his chin beardless, and his eyes hazel. His manners were those of a -frank young soldier, rather, perhaps, of the French school, with a dash -of the _beau garçon_ about him, but, on the whole, very prepossessing. -In his carriage to us, though rather inquisitive, he was at all times -respectful; but towards his fellow countrymen, not of _the cloth_, a -certain hauteur was observable in his deportment, which clearly showed -that he prided himself on the "_Don_." - -The document, encased with the brevet of knighthood, of which mention -has before been made, briefly, but in very honourable terms, described -the gallant conduct of the young soldier, and forms the groundwork of -the following _memoir_; a circumstance I feel called upon to mention, -lest my hero should be wrongfully accused of vain-gloriously boasting of -his achievements; and this also will explain why his story is not, -throughout, told in the first person. - -The secluded little village of Guarda, which has been noticed in the -course of my peregrinations, as lying to the right of the high road from -Jaen to Granada (about five miles from the former city), was the -birth-place of Antonio Condé. His parents, though in a humble station of -life, were of _sangre limpio_;[193] and never having heard of Malthus, -had married early, and most unphilosophically added a family of seven -human beings to the already overstocked population of this -wisdom-getting world. - -Five of these unfortunate mortals were daughters, and our hero was the -younger of the two masculine lumps of animated clay. His brother, who -was many years his senior, had joined the army at an early age, and at -the conclusion of the war had proceeded with his regiment to the -Habana, where he still remained; their parents, therefore, now declining -in years, were anxious to keep their remaining son at home, to assist in -supporting the family. Such, however, was not to be the case, for, on -the _quintos_ being called out in 1830, it fell to Antonio's lot to be -one of the quota furnished by the district that included his native -village. - -To purchase a substitute was out of the question--the price was quite -beyond his parents' means; and though his brother had, at various times, -transmitted money home, which, with praiseworthy foresight, had been -hoarded up to make some little provision for his sisters, but was now -urgently offered to buy him off, yet Antonio would not listen to its -being so applied. To confess the truth, indeed, he secretly rejoiced at -his lot, having always wished to be a soldier, though he could never -bring himself voluntarily to quit his aged parents. Now, he maintained, -there was no alternative; and accordingly, with the brilliant prospect -of making a fortune, which the military life opened to him, he marched -from his native village, and joined the Queen's regiment, then quartered -at Seville, to the cazador company of which he was shortly afterwards -posted. - -Antonio's zeal, and assiduous attention to his duties, as well as his -general good conduct and intelligence, made him a great favourite with -his officers; whilst his youth, good humour, and gay disposition, -endeared him equally to his comrades, in whose amusements he generally -took the lead. In fact, he soon became the pattern man of the pattern -company, and attained the rank of corporal. - -Early in the month of March, 1831, the Queen's regiment received orders -to proceed by forced marches to Cadiz, where the _soi-disant_ -"liberals," having again raised the standard of revolt, commenced the -work of regeneration by murdering the governor of the city in the -streets at noon day. The cold-blooded, calculating miscreants, who -committed this act, excused themselves for the premeditated murder of a -man _universally_ beloved and respected, by saying it was necessary for -the success of their plans to commence with a blow that should strike -terror into the hearts of their opponents. They killed, therefore, the -most virtuous man they could select, to show that no one would be spared -who thenceforth ventured to entertain a doubt, that the constitution -they upheld was the _beau idéal_ of liberal government; and, I regret to -say, Englishmen were found who applauded this atrocious doctrine, and -considered the subsequent punishment inflicted on Torrijos, and the -other abettors and instigators of this barbarity, as an act of -unprecedented cruelty on the part of the "tyrant Ferdinand" and his -"_servile_" ministers. - -Antonio's regiment proceeded to the scene of revolt by way of Utrera and -Xeres, and on reaching Puerto Santa Maria received orders to continue -its march round the head of the bay of Cadiz, and occupy, without delay, -the Puente Zuazo, with the view of confining the rebels to the isla de -Leon, their attempt to gain possession of Cadiz having failed, through -the loyalty and firmness of the troops composing its garrison. - -The rebels, however, effected their escape, ere the Queen's regiment -reached its destined position, and had marched to Chiclana, in the hope -of being there joined by another band of "_facciosos_," under an -ex-officer, named Torrijos; which, long collected in the bay, and -protected by the guns of Gibraltar, was to have effected a landing on -the coast to the westward of Tarifa, and marched thence to support the -ruffians of the isla. - -The royal troops were instantly sent in pursuit of the rebels, who, -abandoning Chiclana, fell back successively upon Conil and Vejer. The -strength of the position of this latter town induced them to make a -stand, and await the momentarily expected reinforcement under Torrijos; -and the King's troops having assembled in considerable force at the foot -of the mountain, determined on attempting to dislodge them from the -formidable post, ere they received this accession of strength; a sharp -conflict was the consequence, which terminated in the royalists being -repulsed with severe loss. - -Antonio, who was well acquainted with the ground, now respectfully -hinted to the captain of his company, that the retreat of the rebels -might be effectually cut off by taking possession of the bridge over the -Barbate, which--all the boats on the river having been destroyed--alone -offered the rebels the means of reaching Tarifa, or Torrijos that of -coming to the assistance of the blockaded town. - -The captain communicated our hero's plans to the commander of the -expedition, who immediately adopted it, wisely abstaining from wasting -further blood to obtain a result by force, which starvation, sooner or -later, would be sure to bring about. - -In pursuance, therefore, of Antonio's project, the Queen's regiment -received orders to take possession of the bridge, and the _cazador_ -company was pushed on with all speed, to facilitate the execution of -this rather difficult operation. - -The bridge, as I have described in a former chapter, is situated -immediately under the lofty precipitous cliff whereon the town of Vejer -is perched, and the road to it is conducted, for nearly half a mile, -along a narrow strip of level ground, between the bank of the Barbate -and the foot of the precipice. - -In their advance, therefore, the _cazadores_ were exposed to a most -destructive shower of bullets, stones, &c. from above, and, of the whole -company, only Corporal Condé, and seven of his comrades, made good their -way, and threw themselves into the venta; which stands on the right bank -of the stream, close to the bridge. They instantly opened a fire from -the windows of the inn upon the rebels in the town overhead, who, at -first, returned it with interest; but after some time Antonio was -beginning to flatter himself, from the slackening of their fusillade, -that he was making their post too hot for them, when, looking round, he -perceived the whole force of the _facciosos_ descending from the town in -one long column, by the road which winds down to the bridge, round the -eastern face of the mountain, their intention evidently being to force a -passage _à todo precio_.[194] - -Antonio's comrades were daunted; they had no officer with them; there -was no appearance of support being at hand; and the odds against them -were fearful. Prudence suggested, therefore, that they should shut -themselves up in the venta, and let the enemy pass. - -Our hero, however, saw how much depended on the decision of that moment. -If the rebels succeeded in crossing the bridge, nothing could prevent -their forming a junction with the band of Torrijos, and in that case the -country might, for many months, be subjected to their outrages and -rapine, and Gibraltar would afford them a sure retreat; he determined, -therefore, to make an effort to intimidate them, and knowing the weight -his example would have upon his comrades, rushed out of the venta, -calling upon them to follow; and taking post behind some old walls, that -formed, as it were, a kind of _tête de pont_, opened a brisk fire upon -the advancing column of the enemy. - -The boldness of the manoeuvre intimidated the rebels, who, thinking -that this handful of men must be supported by a considerable force, -hesitated, halted for further orders, and, finally, threw out a line of -skirmishers to cover their movements, between whom and Antonio's party a -sharp fire was kept up for several minutes. - -In this skirmish one of Antonio's companions was killed, another fell -badly wounded by his side, and he himself received a wound in his head, -which, but that the ball had previously passed through the top of his -chako, would, probably, have been fatal. - -The rebels, discovering at length that the small force opposed to them -was altogether without support, again formed in column of attack to -force the bridge. The word "forward" was given, and Antonio feared that -his devotion would prove of no avail, when, at the critical moment, the -remainder of his company advanced from behind the venta at the _pas de -charge_, rending the air with loud cries of "_Viva el Rey_," and opening -a fire which took the enemy in flank. - -The rebels saw that the golden opportunity had been missed, and, seized -with a panic, retired hastily to their stronghold, closely pressed by -the _cazadores_, who hoped to enter the town pêle mêle with them. - -The commander of the king's troops, who had galloped to the spot where -he heard firing, determined, however, to adhere to the plan of reducing -the rebels to starvation; which now, by Antonio's gallantry, he was -certain of eventually effecting; and ordered, therefore, the recall to -be sounded as soon as he saw the enemy had regained the town. -Unfortunately for our hero, who, attended by a single comrade, was at -the extreme left of the extended line of skirmishers, and had taken -advantage of one of the deep gullies that furrow the side of the -mountain to advance unobserved on the enemy; he neither heard the signal -to retire, nor saw his companions fall back; continuing, therefore, to -advance, it was only on gaining the head of the ravine that he suddenly -became aware of the extreme peril of their situation, and that a quick -retreat alone could save them. It was, however, too late; his -comrade--his bosom friend, Gaspar Herrera--fell, apparently dead, a -dozen paces from him, and he, himself, in the act of raising up his -brave companion, was brought to the ground by a ball, which splintered -his ankle-bone. He managed, with great difficulty, to crawl to some -palmeta bushes, having first sheltered the body of his friend behind the -stem of a stunted olive tree, which would not afford cover for both; -and, lying flat on the ground, waited for some time in the hope that his -company had merely moved round to the left to gain a more accessible -part of the mountain, and would speedily renew the attack. - -At length, his patience becoming exhausted, he thought it would be well -to let his comrades know where he was, and once more levelling his -musket, resumed the offensive by attacking a pig, which, unconscious of -danger, came grunting with carniverous purpose towards that part of the -gory field where the body of his friend Gaspar lay extended. This drew a -heavy fire upon Antonio, but, as he was much below the rebels, who had -all retired into the town, and was tolerably well sheltered by the -friendly palmetas, he escaped further damage. - -In the meanwhile, Antonio and Gaspar had had been reported as killed to -the captain of the _cazadores_, who, whilst deploring with the other -officers the loss of the two most promising young men of his company, -heard the renewed firing in the direction of the late skirmish. -"_Corajo!_" he exclaimed, "that must be Condé and Herrera still at it." -"No, Señor," replied the serjeant, "they were both seen to fall as we -retreated from the hill; that firing must be an attack upon our friends -posted on the other side of the town; the rebels are probably attempting -to force a passage in that direction." "Well then, I cannot do wrong in -advancing," said the captain, "so let us on. Nevertheless, I still think -it is the fire of Condé and his comrade, and I know, my brave fellows," -he continued, addressing his men, "I know that if it be possible to -bring them off, you will do it." - -They advanced, accordingly, in the direction of the firing, and, as the -captain had conjectured, there they found Condé continuing the combat _à -l'outrance_, extended full length upon the ground under cover of the -palmeta bushes, with his head and ankle bandaged, and his ammunition -nearly exhausted. They fortunately succeeded in bearing him off without -sustaining any loss, though Condé insisted on their first removing the -seemingly lifeless body of his friend Gaspar, which he pointed out to -them. - -The detachment at the venta had now been reinforced by some cavalry and -artillery, and the remainder of the Queen's regiment, whilst the rest -of the Royalist force took post on the opposite side of the town, in a -position that covered the roads to Chiclana, Medina, Sidonia, and Alcalà -de los Gazules, thereby depriving the beleaguered rebels of all chance -of escape. - -Towards dusk that same evening, one of Torrijos's troopers was brought -in a prisoner. Unconscious of the state of affairs, he had mistaken a -cavalry piquet of the king's troops for the advanced guard of the -_facciosos_, and had not even discovered his error in time to destroy -the despatches of which he was the bearer. By these it was learnt that -Torrijos, apprized of the failure on Cadiz and subsequent escape of the -rebel-band from the Isla de Leon, had not budged from the spot where he -had effected his landing; but he now sent to acquaint his coadjutors -that he had collected a sufficiency of boats to take them all off, and -that the bearer would be their guide to the place of embarkation. - -This information was forwarded to the rebels at Vejer, who, not giving -credit to it, continued to hold out until the third day, when their -provisions being exhausted and no Torrijos appearing, they agreed to -capitulate, and were marched prisoners to the Isla, where, but a few -days before, "_Quantam est in rebus inane!_" they had styled themselves -the liberators of Spain. - -The queen's regiment was now marched in all haste towards Tarifa, in the -hope of surprising and capturing Torrijos and his band, ere the news of -what had passed at Vejer could reach him, but he had taken the alarm at -the prolonged absence of his messenger, and, re-embarking his doughty -heroes, regained the anchorage of Gibraltar without having fired a shot -to assist their friends. The regiment, therefore, proceeded to -Algeciras, and from thence marched to San Roque, where it remained -stationary for several months. - -Here Antonio rejoined it, accompanied by his friend Herrera, who, thanks -to the timely surgical aid his comrade had been the means of procuring -him, yet lived to evince his gratitude to his preserver. Here, also, our -hero received the distinction which his gallant conduct had so well -earned, as well as the grant of a--to-this-day-unpaid--pension of a real -per diem. Promotion, too, was offered, but he chose rather to wait for a -vacancy in his own regiment than to receive immediate rank in any other. - -Our hero's military career was shortly, however, doomed to be brought to -a close. He had resumed his duty but a few days, when an order arrived -for the queen's regiment to proceed to Seville. The wound in Antonio's -ankle, though apparently quite healed, had been suffered to close over -the bullet that had inflicted it, and the first day's march produced -inflammation of so dangerous a character as to threaten, not only the -loss of his shattered limb, but even of life itself. - -In this deplorable state Antonio was left behind at Ximena, where, -fortunately, an aunt of Gaspar resided. The good Dame Felipa required -only to hear the young soldier's name--his noble act of friendship -having long made it familiar to her ear--to receive him as her son. -"Never can I forget her kindness," said Antonio; "my own mother could -not have tended me with more unremitted attention, and--under the -Almighty--I feel that my recovery is entirely their work." Here an -"_Ay!_" drawn seemingly from the innermost recess of his heart, escaped -from the young soldier's lips, which, appearing quite out of keeping -with the terms in which he spoke of Dame Felipa's _maternal_ solicitude, -induced me, after a moment's pause, to ask, "But who are _they_, -Antonio?" - -"The aunt and sister of Gaspar," he replied, with some little confusion. - -"And you find the wounds of Cupid more incurable than those of Bellona?" -said I, jestingly--"_Vamos_, Don Antonio! As Sancho says, '_Gusto mucho -destas cosas de amores_,'[195] so let us have the sequel of your story -by all means." - -"I shall not be very long in relating it," continued our hero. "For -three months I remained the guest of Doña Felipa. A fever, produced by -my intense sufferings, rendered me for many days quite insensible to the -extraordinary kindness of which I was the object; at length it was -subdued, leaving me, however, so reduced, that for weeks I could not -quit my couch. Indeed, the most perfect repose was ordered on account of -my wound, the cure of which was rendered far more tedious and -troublesome from former mismanagement. During this long period, the -sister of my friend Gaspar was my constant attendant. She read to me, -sang to me, or touched the guitar to break--what she imagined must -be--the wearisome monotony of my confinement. I have even, when -consciousness first returned, on the abatement of the fever, heard her, -thinking I was sleeping, _pray_ for the recovery of her brother's -preserver. - -"It was impossible to be thus the object of Manuela's tender solicitude, -without being impressed with the most ardent love and admiration for one -so pure, so engaging, and so beauteous! Had she indeed been less lovely -and captivating, had she even been absolutely plain, still her assiduous -and disinterested attention could not but have called forth my warmest -gratitude and regard; but I trust you will one day see Manuela, and -then be able to judge if I could resist becoming the captive of such -_enganchamientos_[196] as she possesses. - -"Vainly I endeavoured to stifle the rising passion at its birth. Alas! -the greater my efforts were to eradicate it, the deeper it took root in -my heart. I hoped, nevertheless, to have sufficient self-control to -conceal my passion from the eyes of all, even of her who had called it -into existence, for gratitude and honour equally forbade my endeavouring -to engage the affections of one whose family, placed in a walk of life -far above mine--that is in point of _wealth_, added the K. S. F. -somewhat proudly--I had little right to hope, would consider a poor -soldier of fortune a suitable match for the daughter of the rich Don -Fadrique Herrara. Nor did I know, indeed, how Manuela herself would -receive my addresses, for I scarcely ventured to attribute the soft -glances of her love-inspiring eyes to any other feeling than that of -compassion for the sufferings of her brother's friend. - -"The day of separation came, however, and the veil which had so long -concealed our mutual feelings was gently and unpremeditatedly drawn -aside. Manuela's father and her brother Gaspar came to Ximena to pass a -few days with Doña Felipa, and finding that, though still a prisoner to -my room, I was now declared to be out of all danger, Don Fadrique -announced his intention of taking his daughter home with him--her visit -having already been prolonged far beyond the time originally fixed, in -consequence of my illness, and the fatigue which, unassisted, the -attendance upon me would have imposed on her aunt. - -"When the dreaded hour of departure arrived, my lovely nurse came to the -side of my couch, to bid her last farewell. A tear stood in her bright -eye; the silvery tones of her voice faltered; her hand trembled as she -placed it in mine, and a blush suffused her cheeks as I pressed it to my -lips. But that soft hand was not withdrawn until her own lips had -confessed her love, and had sealed the unsolicited promise, never to -bestow that hand upon another! - -"The difficulty now was to make known our mutual attachment to her -father, who I dreaded would think but ill of me, for the return thus -made for all the kindness of his family. My pride pinched me, also, lest -allusion should be made to my poverty, for, though poor, the blood of -the Condé's is pure as any in the Serranía. - -"I had but little time for consideration, for Don Fadrique was about to -mount his horse, and I thought the best channel of communication would -be my friend Gaspar. He listened attentively to my tale, which was not -told without much embarrassment, and then, to my confusion, burst into -a loud laugh. - -"'Pretty _news_, truly, _amigo_ Antonio,' he at length exclaimed. '_My_ -eyes, however, have not been so exclusively occupied with one object for -this week past--like your's and my sister's--as to render the -communication of this wonderful secret at all necessary. But be of good -cheer; I have seen how the matter stood, and, on the part of my sister, -encouraged it; and I hope to be able to overcome all difficulties, so -leave the affair in my hands:--on our way homewards I will talk the -matter over with my father, and you shall hear the result shortly.' - -"Nor did he disappoint me. In a few days a letter came from Gaspar: the -result of his interference exceeded my expectations: Don Fadrique had -received his communication very calmly, and told him that before -returning any definite answer, he should take time to fathom Manuela's -feelings. - -"Not long after this, I received a letter, of a less satisfactory kind, -however, from Don Fadrique himself. It simply stated that he could not -at present give his consent to his daughter's accepting me; that he had -no objections to urge on the score of my rank in life, or the way in -which I had acted in the matter, but that his daughter's expectations -entitled him to look for a wealthier son-in-law, and that, in fact, it -had long been a favorite plan of his, to unite her to the son of an old -and intimate friend, when they should be of a proper age. - -"Nevertheless--his letter concluded--provided I would abstain from -seeing, writing to, or holding _in any way_ communication with his -daughter for the space of two years, he would, at the expiration of that -period, consent to our union, should we both continue to wish it. - -"This chilling letter was accompanied by a hastily written billet from -Manuela. It was as follows:--'I know my father's conditions--accept -them, and have full confidence in the constancy of your Manuela.' - -"I accordingly wrote to Don Fadrique, subscribing to the terms he -proposed, and, from that day to this, have neither seen nor communicated -with either Manuela or any member of her family." - -"But have you not heard from time to time of the welfare of your -Manuela?" I asked; "are you sure she is yet unmarried?" For it struck me -that the young son of "an old and intimate friend" was a dangerous -person to have paying court to one's mistress during a two years' -absence; especially in Spain, where _love matches_ are rather scouted. A -story that one of Manuela's countrywomen related to me of herself, -recurring to me at the same time. - -This lady had, early in life, formed an attachment to a young officer, -whom poverty alone prevented her marrying. His regiment was ordered to -Ceuta, and she remained at Malaga, consoling herself with the hope that -brighter days would dawn upon them. Her friends laughed at the idea of -such interminable constancy, especially as a most advantageous _parti_ -presented itself for her acceptance. The proposer--it is true--was -neither so handsome nor so youthful as the exile, but then he was also -an officer, and "_in very good circumstances_." She could not forget her -first love, however--indeed, she _never_ could--and long turned a deaf -ear to the tender whisperings of her new admirer; but, at length, her -relations became urgent, as well as her lover; the mail boat from Ceuta -gradually came to be looked for with less impatience; and, "_por fin_," -she observed, "_como era Capitan por Capitan (!!)_,[197] I had no great -objections to urge, and we were married!" - -She confessed to me, however, that this exchange was not effected -"_without paying the difference_," as the treatment she experienced from -her rich husband, caused her ever after to regret having given up her -poor lover. - -But to return to Antonio--"I have had but few opportunities of hearing -from Manuela," he replied, "for my native village is removed from any -high road, and the close attendance required by my aged parents--my -wound having incapacitated me from further military service--has been -such, that I seldom could get as far as Jaen to make enquiries amongst -the _contrabandistas_ and others who visit the neighbourhood, of her -place of residence; but about a month since I met an _arriero_ of Arcos, -who knew Don Fadrique well, and from him I learnt that Manuela is still -unmarried, has lost all her beauty, is wasted to a shadow; and said to -be suffering from some disease that baffles the skill of the most -eminent physicians of the place. - -"This intelligence has made me the more anxious to see her, and claim -her promised hand, for no change in her personal appearance--even if the -account be true--can alter the sentiments I entertain for her; but, at -the same time, it has placed a weight upon my spirits which in vain I -endeavour to throw off. - -"The morning it was my good fortune to fall in with you, Caballeros, I -had set out from my home to proceed to Ximena, whither I understand -Manuela has been removed for change of air. For the term of my -probation, though not yet expired, is fast drawing to a close, and -having some business to transact with the military authorities at -Granada and Malaga respecting my pension (of which not a _maravedi_ has -ever been paid), I have timed my movements so as to reach Ximena by the -day on which I may again present myself to Manuela, and receive, I -trust, the reward of my constancy." - -Antonio's narrative was here brought to a conclusion, but ere he left -us, I exacted the promise mentioned in the preceding chapter, that he -would acquaint us with the result of Don Fadrique's essay in -experimental philosophy. Circumstances, however, occurred to prevent our -meeting him at the place of appointment, and I had almost given up the -hope of hearing more of Antonio and his love story, when, to my -surprise, he one morning presented himself at my breakfast table at San -Roque. - -I saw, at the first glance, that the course of true love had not run -smooth--he was pale and hagged--flurried, yet dispirited. "My good -Antonio," said I, unwilling to give utterance to a doubt of his fair -one's constancy, "I fear Don Fadrique has not proved to be a man of his -word." - -"_Perdon usted_," he replied--"he has been faithful to his word"--worse -and worse, thought I--"And Manuela not less constant in her affection," -he continued; guessing at once the suspicion that flitted across my -mind--"Alas! I could even wish it were not so, if all otherwise were -well; but fate has ordered differently. A calamity has befallen Manuela; -compared to which, death would be a mercy. She is in a state that is -heart-rending to behold. Her sufferings are almost beyond the power of -bearing. Oh, Caballero! it is fearful--it is awful to see her. She has -the best advice that money can procure, but nothing can be done to give -us a hope of her recovery." - -"Mad?" I exclaimed, with a shudder--"Oh, cursed love of riches...." - -"_Nada, nada_,"[198] interrupted Antonio, "she is as sensible as ever. -Alas! I could even bear to see her insane, for then I might hope that -time would effect a change." - -"Is it _Etica_?" I asked, knowing that the Spaniards consider -consumption both incurable and highly infectious. - -A mournful shake of the head was his reply. - -"What then, my good Antonio, _is_ the nature of her malady?" - -"_Ojala_[199] that it could be called a malady, Don Carlos," ejaculated -the silver cross of San Fernando; "it might not then be beyond the reach -of the physician's art. But _Dios de mi vida!_ there is no hope for her, -unless a miracle can be wrought. It is to have a consultation on that -point, I am come to San Roque." - -"What," said I, my patience thoroughly exhausted, "has she embraced -Mohammedanism?" - -"Not far from it, Don Carlos--she is possessed of a devil!" - -"Friend Antonio," said I, "congratulate yourself;--such discoveries are -seldom made _before_ marriage. Let me, however, persuade you, instead of -consulting with priests, to allow an heretical English doctor to meet -this devil face to face; his simple nostrums may perchance be found more -efficacious than the exorcisms of the most pious divines. But explain to -me the signs and symptoms of the presence of this imp of darkness; and -pardon my making light of so serious an affair, for, rest assured, the -evil one is not now permitted to torment the human frame with bodily -anguish; his toils are spread for catching _souls_; and worldly -pleasures, not personal sufferings, are the means he employs to effect -his purpose." - -Antonio then entered into a detailed account of his betrothed's ailment, -as well as of the mode of treatment that had been adopted; but, -ignorant, superstitious, and bigoted, as I knew the campestral Spanish -_faculty_ to be, I had yet to learn how far they could practise on the -credulity of their infatuated _patients_. - -Manuela, it appeared, had, one day during the preceding Lent, been so -imprudent as to taste some chicken broth that had been prepared for her -sick father; and it was supposed, that the devil, assuming the -appearance of the egg of some insect, had gained admission to her throat -and settled in her breast, where he had ever since been nurtured and -was gradually "_comiendo su vida_!"[200] - -The Doctors assured her friends that the only way of appeasing the -monster's appetite, was by the constant application of thick slices of -raw beef to the exterior of the part affected--but this remedy was daily -losing its effect. - -My astonishment knew no bounds.--Was it possible such gross ignorance -could exist, or such horrible imposition be practised in the nineteenth -century! - -After much persuasion, Antonio promised to bring his betrothed to San -Roque, to have the advice of an English doctor; my proposal of taking -one to see her, at Ximena, having at once been negatived on the grounds -that it would cause great irritation amongst the people of that town; -and, accordingly, on the day appointed for the meeting, Manuela, borne -on a kind of litter, and accompanied by her aunt, came to San Roque on -the pretence of its being her wish to offer a wax bust at the shrine of -one of the Emigré Saints of Gibraltar "now established in the city of -_San Roque de su Campo;_" which said saint, having taken a very active -part in expelling the Moors from Spain, it was naturally concluded might -feel an interest in driving the devil out of Manuela's breast. - -Antonio's mistress had evidently been a lovely creature. Her features -were beautifully outlined, but her white lips and bloodless cheeks, her -sunken eyes and wasted figure, declared the ravages making by some -terrible inward disease. She was suffering excessive pain from the -effects of the journey, but received us with a faint smile. - -"I fear, sir," she said, with some emotion, addressing herself to my -friend, Dr. ----, "I fear, sir, that I have given you unnecessary trouble -in coming to see me, for I am told that my disorder is beyond the reach -of medical skill; but my friend here," pointing to her lover, who, with -brimful eyes, stood watching alternately the pain-distorted countenance -of his mistress and that of the Doctor, hoping, if possible, to discover -his thoughts, "my friend here requested me so earnestly to come and meet -you, that, as we shall be so short a time together on this earth, I -could not, as far as concerned myself, refuse him so slight a favour, -and I hope you will pardon the inconvenience to which we have put you." - -Antonio and myself now withdrew, leaving Manuela and Doña Felipa with -Dr. ----, who, in a short time rejoined us, and, to Antonio's -inexpressible delight, informed him that the case of his betrothed was -not by any means hopeless, though she would have to submit to a painful -surgical operation, and then turning round to me, he added, "the poor -creature is suffering from a cancerous affection, which, fortunately, is -just in the state that I could most wish it to be. But no time must be -lost." - -The nature of the case having been fully explained to Antonio, it was -left to him to persuade Manuela to submit to the necessary operation, -and to inform her, that though it might be performed with safety _then_, -yet death must inevitably be the consequence of delay. - -The prejudices we were prepared to encounter were numerous, but they -were propounded chiefly by Manuela's aunt, she herself agreeing without -hesitation to every thing Antonio suggested. At length, however, the old -lady said a positive answer should be given after consulting with a -priest, and I forthwith accompanied Antonio to Don ---- ----, and -requested his attendance. - -Antonio was present at the consultation, and gave us an amusing account -of it. The main objection of the Doña Felipa was to the heretical hand -that was to direct the knife; but the worthy _Padre_--who had good -reason to know the superior skill of the English faculty over those of -his own country, and was himself _spelling_ for a little advice on the -score of an over-strained digestion--took the case up most zealously, -and eventually overcame all their scruples. - -"Fear not," said he, winding up his arguments, "Fear not, good dame, to -trust the maiden in his hands. Like as the Lord opened the mouth of -Balaam's ass to admonish her master, so has he put wisdom into the heads -of these heretical doctors for the good of us, his faithful servants. -Quiet your conscience, Señora Felipa, I myself have been physicked by -these semi-christian _Medicos_." - -The case was not much in point, but it served the purpose. Doña Felipa -was convinced; her niece submitted; the operation was successfully -performed; the colour in a short time returned to the cheeks of the -truly lovely and loveable Manuela; the smile of health once again -lighted up her intelligent countenance. And, ere I left the country, the -small share it had fallen to my lot to take in producing this happy -change, was gratefully acknowledged by the expressive, though downcast -glance that gleamed from Manuela's bright and joyous eyes, on my -addressing her as the bride of the knight of San Fernando. - -THE END. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - - _Itinerary of the principal Roads of Andalusia, and of the three - great Routes leading from that Province to the Cities of Madrid, - Lisbon, and Valencia._ - -N.B. The measurements on the Post Roads are given in Spanish leagues, -conformably with the Government Regulations by which Postmasters are -authorized to charge for their horses. On these, therefore, the -distances from stage to stage cannot be calculated with much precision; -but a Spanish _Post_ league may generally be reckoned 3½[201] English -miles. On the other roads the distances are more accurately specified in -English miles. - - - No. 1. - BAYLEN TO MADRID. - (A Post Road, travelled by Diligences.) - - Leagues. - From Baylen to Guarroman 2 - thence to La Carolina 2 - Santa Elena 2 - La Venta de Cardenas 2 - Visillo 2 - Sta. Cruz de Mudela 2 - Val de Peñas 2 - N. S. de la Consalacion 2 - Manzanares 2 - La Casa nueva del Rey 2½ - Villaharta 2½ - Vta. del Puerto Lapice 2 - Madridejos 3 - Caña de la higuera 2 - Tembleque 2 - Guardia 2 - Ocaña 3½ - Aranjuez 2 - Espartinas 2½ - Los Angeles 3 - Madrid 2½ - --- - Total leagues 47½ - --- - 47½ leagues = 164 English miles. - - - No. 2. - SEVILLE TO LISBON. - (Post road, travelled by Carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Seville to Santi Ponce 1 - thence to La Venta de Guillena 3 - Ronquillo 3 - Santa Olalla 4 - Monasterio 4 - Fuente de Cantos 3 - Los Santos de Maimona 4 - Santa Marta 5 - Albuera 3 - Badajos 4 - Elvas (Portugal) 3 - Lisbon 30 - -- - Total leagues 67 - -- - 67 leagues = 232 miles. - - - No. 3. - GRANADA TO VALENCIA. - (Post road, no Diligence.) - - Leagues. - From Granada to Diezma 6 - thence to Guadiz 3 - From Guadiz to Baza 7 - thence to Lorca 18 - Murcia 12 - Alicante 13 - San Felipe 9 - Valencia 14 - -- - Total leagues 82 - -- - -82 leagues=284 miles. - - -No. 4. - -CADIZ to MADRID. - -(Post road travelled by carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to San Fernando 3 - thence to Puerto Sta. Maria 3 - Xeres de la Frontera 2½ - de Casa Real del Cuervo 3½ - Ventllo de la Torre de Orcas 3½ - Utrera 3½ - Alcalà de Guadaira 3 - Mairena del Alcor 2 - Carmona 2 - da Venta de la Portugueza 2½ - Luisiana 3½ - Ecija 3 - La Carlota 4 - Cortijo de Mangonegro 3 - Cordoba 3 - Alcolea 2 - Carpio 3 - Aldea del Rio 3½ - Andujar 3½ - La Casa del Rey 2½ - Baylen 2½ - By No. 1, from Baylen to Madrid 47½ - ---- - Total leagues 109½ - ---- - -109½ leagues=378 miles - - -No. 5. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE. - -(Post and carriage road.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to Alcalà de Guadaira, - by Route No. 4 22 - Thence to Seville 2 - -- - Total leagues 24 - -24 leagues=83 miles. - - -No. 6. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE, by the MARISMA. - -(Direct road, passable for carriages in summer only.) - - Miles. - - From Cadiz, by boat, to El - Puerto de Santa Maria 5 - Thence to Xeres 9 - Lebrija 15 - Seville 28 - -- - Total miles 57 - -- - - -No. 7. - -CADIZ to LISBON. - -(Post road.) - - Leagues. - - From Cadiz to Seville, by No. 5. 24 - Seville to Lisbon, by No. 2. 67 - -- - Total leagues 91 - -- - -91 leagues = 315 miles. - - -No. 8. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Los Barrios 12 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 9 - La Venta de Tabilla 11 - La Venta de Vejer 14 - (Town of Vejer ½ a mile on left.) - Chiclana 16 - El Puente Zuazo 4½ - Cadiz 9 - --- - Total miles 75½ - --- - - -No. 9. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Another bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Algeciras[202] 9 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 10 - by No. 8 54½ - ---- - Total miles 73½ - ---- - - -No. 10. - -GIBRALTAR to XERES. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - Thence to La Venta la Gamez 4½ - La Casa de Castañas 15 - Alcalà de los Gazules 13 - (The town left ½ a mile to the right.) - Paterna 9 - Xeres 16 - --- - Total miles 63½ - --- - - -No. 11. - -GIBRALTAR to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ximena 24 - thence to Ubrique 20 - El Broque 10 - Villa Martin 8 - Utrera 21 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - -- - Total miles 98 - -- - - -No 12. - -GIBRALTAR to LISBON. - -(Bridle road to Seville, from thence a carriage road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Seville, by - Route No. 11 98 - From Seville to Lisbon, by - Route No. 2 232 - --- - Total miles 330 - --- - - -No. 13. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -(A post, but only bridle road to Osuna, from thence a carriage route.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - thence to Gaucin 25 - Atajate 14 - Ronda 10 - From Ronda to Saucejo 21 - thence to Osuna 11 - Ecija 20 - By Route No. 4, from thence - to Baylen, 27 leagues = 93 - By Route No. 1, from Baylen - to Madrid, 47½ leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 364 - --- - - -No. 14. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -BY BENEMEJI. - -(A bridle road only as far as Andujar.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ronda, by - Route No. 13 55 - From Ronda to La Venta de - Teba 21 - (Town of Teba ½ mile on the right) - thence to Campillos 6 - Fuente de Piedra 9 - Benemeji 16 - Lucena 12 - Baena 18 - Porcuna 24 - Andujar 14 - Baylen 17 - By Route No. 1, to Madrid, - 47½ leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 356 - --- - - -No. 15. - -GIBRALTAR to MALAGA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Venta Guadiaro 12 - thence to Estepona 15 - Marbella 16 - Fuengirola 16 - Benalmedina 6 - Malaga 14 - -- - Total miles 79 - -- - - -No. 16. - -GIBRALTAR to GRANADA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Gibraltar to Malaga, by - Route No. 15 79 - From Malaga to Valez 18 - thence to La Venta de Alcaucin 12 - Alhama 12 - La Venta de Huelma 15 - La Mala 6 - Granada 9 - ---- - Total miles 151 - ---- - - -No. 17. - -GIBRALTAR to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Granada, by - Route No. 16 151 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 435 - ---- - - -No. 18. - -MALAGA to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Malaga to Venta de Cartama 13½ - (leaves town of Cartama 1 mile - on left.) - Venta de Cartama to Casarabonela 11½ - (the ascent to this town may be - avoided, keeping it to the left) - Casarabonela to El Burgo 9 - thence to Ronda 11 - Zahara 15 - (Town half a mile off, on the left.) - thence to Puerto Serrano 7 - Coronil 10 - Utrera 8 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - ---- - Total miles 100 - ---- - - -No. 19. - -MALAGA to CORDOBA. - -(Practicable for Carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Venta de Galvez 15¾ - thence to Antequera 12¼ - Puente Don Gonzalo 27 - Rambla 16 - Cordoba 16 - --- - Total miles 87 - --- - - -No. 20. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(Post road, travelled by a Diligence.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to El Colmenar 17 - Thence to Venta de Alfarnate 10 - Loja 16 - Venta de Cacin 8 - Lachar 9 - Santa Fé 8 - Granada 8 - Venta de San Rafael 27 - Jaen 24 - Menjiber 14 - Baylen 10 - To Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 315 - ---- - - -No. 21. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(a more direct road, but in part only practicable for carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Loja, by Route 43 - Thence to Montefrio 12 - Alcalà la real 14 - Alcaudete 11 - Martos 12 - Arjona 17 - Andujar 7 - Baylen 17 - ---- - Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - - -No. 22. - -MALAGA to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Granada, by - Route No. 16 72 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 356 - ---- - - -No. 23. - -GRANADA to CORDOBA. - -(A wheel road as far as Alcalà.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Pinos de la - Puerte 12 - thence to Alcalà la Real 18 - Baena 24 - Castro el Rio 6 - Cordoba 24 - --- - Total miles 84 - --- - - -No. 24. - -GRANADA to MADRID. - -(Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Baylen, by - Route No. 20 75½ - Thence to Madrid by Route - No. 1 164 - ----- - Total miles 239½ - ----- - - -No. 25. - -GRANADA to SEVILLE. - -(Not a wheel road throughout.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Santa Fé 8 - thence to Lachar 8 - La Venta de Cacin 9 - Loja 8 - Archidona[203] 18 - Alameda 11 - Pedrera 12 - Osuna 11 - Marchena 14 - Maraina del Alcor 14 - Alcalà del Guadiaro 7 - Seville 8 - ---- - Total miles 128 - ---- - - -No. 26. - -SEVILLE to MADRID. - -(Post and Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Seville to Alcalà de Guadaira 8 - Thence to Beylen, by Route - No. 4 138 - Baylen to Madrid, by Route - No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 310 - ---- - - -No. 27. - -SEVILLE to VALENCIA. - - Miles. - From Seville to Granada, by - Route No. 25 128 - From Granada to Valencia, by - Route No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 412 - ---- - - * * * * * - - _Just Published_, - - In 2 vols., 8vo. with Illustrations, - - CAPTAIN SCOTT'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND - CANDIA; - - With Details of the - - MILITARY POWER - - And Resources of those Countries, and Observations on the Government, - Policy, and Commercial System of MOHAMMED ALI. - -"One of the most sterling publications of the season. We have recently -had no small supply of information on Egypt, but there is a freshness in -Captain Scott's narrative that affords a new desire respecting the -events of this most interesting country. The narrative is throughout -light, and amusing; the habits and customs of the people are sketched -with considerable spirit and talent, and there is much novelty in the -gallant Author's details."--_Naval and Military Gazette._ - -"We do not recollect to have read a better book of travels than this, -since Slade's able publication on Turkey. The field of African and -Egyptian investigation has been variously trodden, but Captain Scott, -trusting to a shrewd observation and a sound understanding, has struck -out new lights and improved upon the information of others."--_United -Service Journal._ - - HENRY COLBURN, Publisher, 13, Great Marlborough Street. - - To be had of all Booksellers. - -_In a Few Days will be Published_, - -A TRAVELLING MAP OF PART OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN, - -INCLUDING THE GREATER PORTION OF THE KINGDOMS OF SEVILLE, CORDOBA, JAEN, -AND GRANADA. - -Compiled from the best Authorities, and Corrected from his own Notes and -Sketches, - -By CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - -AUTHOR OF "EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA AND GRANADA, &c. &c. -&c." - -To be had of Mr. NEW, Mapseller and Publisher, No. 11, Strand, price -2_s._ 6_d._ - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] See the Posting Itinerary in the Appendix. - -[2] The post league has already been stated to contain 3 English miles, -and 807 yards. - -[3] Town-hall. - -[4] Lobster-hunting--such is the name for Locust in Spanish. - -[5] Or Genua urbanorum.--Pliny. - -[6] Hirt. Bel. Hist. Cap. LXI. - -[7] In an abundant house supper is soon cooked. - -[8] Red pepper. - -[9] Cabbage. - -[10] A kind of sausage, resembling those made at Bologna. - -[11] Bacon.--Spanish bacon is certainly the best in the world, which -may be accounted for by the swine being fed principally on acorns, -chesnuts, and Indian corn. - -[12] No vain boast--the fact being established on the testimony of -Rocca. - -[13] Florez Medallas de las Colonias, &c. - -[14] Mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus--not the Ilipa of Strabo -and Pliny, situated on the river Boetis, and in the county of Seville. - -[15] The orchard. - -[16] Evil doer. - -[17] Alleys. - -[18] The dead body. - -[19] Roguish. - -[20] La Martinière fell into a strange error in describing this river -and the battle field on its bank; making the stream fall into the bay -of Cadiz, and the scene of Alfonso's victory some fifty miles from -Tarifa. This mistake has been followed by several modern authors. - -[21] Not the Mellaria of Pliny, which was a city of the Turduli, within -the county of Cordoba. - -[22] A ruined town, no longer inhabited. - -[23] By Strabo ninety-four miles, following the coast: i.e. 750 Stadia. - -[24] Lib. III. Some editions enumerate two cities called _Besippo_, -thus, "Bæsaro Tauilla dicte Bæsippo, Barbesula, Lacippo, Bæsippo, &c.;" -but Holland and Harduin give only one, calling the first "_Belippo_." - -[25] There is no Epidemic here. - -[26] There are more direct cross-roads to these places, but they are -not always passable in winter. - -[27] _Toll-house._ - -[28] Strabo. - -[29] This one amongst the various restraints laid on the trade of -Gibraltar has very lately been removed on the remonstrance of our -government. - -[30] Shops where ice is sold. - -[31] I understand this Cathedral is now being patched up in an -economical way to render it serviceable. - -[32] Road of Hercules. The causeway connecting Cadiz with the Isla de -Leon is so called, and supposed to be a work of the Demi-god. - -[33] 400 or 500 butts of Wine are shipped yearly from this place. - -[34] The old mouth of the Guadalete is obstructed by a yet more -impracticable bar. - -[35] 10,000 butts of Wine are collected annually from the vineyards of -Puerto Santa Maria. The exports amount to 12,000. - -[36] Camomile. - -[37] Mother. - -[38] So called from the town of _Montilla_, whence the grape, that -originally produced this description of dry, light-coloured wine, was -brought to Xeres. - -[39] Carthusian convent. - -[40] Strabo and Pliny. - -[41] A Fen, subject to the inundations of the sea. Such, however, is -not the case here. - -[42] Water-courses, which are dry in summer. - -[43] Written _Vrgia_ by Pliny--_Vcia_ by Ptolemy. - -[44] Itin. Anton. - -[45] España Sagrada. - -[46] This supposes the earth's circumference to have been reckoned -240,000 stadia, giving 83-1/3 miles to a degree of the meridian. By the -calculation of Eratosthenes, the circumference of the earth was 252,000 -stadia, which gives exactly 700 stadia, or 87½ miles to a degree. - -[47] Mariana (lib. 3. cap. 22) has quite mistaken the situation of this -place, which he describes as two leagues from Xeres, _on the banks of -the Guadalete_. It is two leagues from Xeres, certainly, but nearly -three from the Guadalete, and but one and a half from the Guadalquivir. - -[48] The area of the Mezquita at Cordoba, taken altogether, is larger, -but not the enclosed portion of Gothic architecture, which is, properly -speaking, the Episcopal church. - -[49] A long time since. - -[50] In England, however, it must be the taste of the nation that is -suffering from disease, rather than its drama, if, with such writers as -Sheridan Knowles, Talfourd, and Bulwer, the theatre does not once more -become a popular place of resort. - -[51] Farce; but, literally, goût, highly seasoned dish. - -[52] Low and disorderly people. - -[53] Florez Medallas descubiertas, &c. - -[54] Old Seville. - -[55] De Bell. Civ. - -[56] Hollond--intending, of course, the Itipa of the Itinerary, since -the city of that name, mentioned by Pliny, was on the right bank of -the Guadalquivír; and from medals discovered of it, whereon a fish is -borne, may be concluded to have stood on the very margin of the river. - -[57] The gallant and talented author of the "History of the Peninsular -War" has fallen into some slight topographical errors (caused, -probably, by the extraordinary inaccuracy of the Spanish maps) in -describing the movements of the contending armies. He describes, for -instance, the French as obliging the Duke of Albuquerque to abandon -his position at Carmona (where he had hoped to cover both Seville -and Cadiz), by moving from Ecija upon Utrera (i.e. in rear of the -Spanish army), along "a road by Moron, shorter" than that leading to -the same place through Carmona. But so far from this road by Moron -being "_shorter_," it is yet more circuitous than the chaussée; and, -moreover, by skirting the foot of the Ronda mountains, it is both bad -and hilly. - -He furthermore represents the Duke of Albuquerque as falling back -from Utrera upon Xeres, with all possible speed, and, nevertheless, -taking Lebrija in his way, which town is, at least, eight miles out -of the direct road. A French account (_La Pène, Campagne de 1810_) -says, the Spanish army fell back from Carmona "par le chemin _le plus -direct, Utrera et Arcos sur Xeres_,"--an error equally glaring, for the -chaussée is the shortest road from Utrera to Xeres;--in fact, it is as -direct as a road can well be, and leaves Arcos some twelve miles on -the left! We may suppose, in attempting to reconcile these discrepant -accounts, that the main body of the duke's army retreated from Utrera -to Xeres by the chaussée; the cavalry by Arcos, to cover its right -flank during the march; and that the road by Lebrija was taken by the -troops withdrawn from Seville, as being the most direct route from that -city to Xeres. - -[58] Don Maldonado Saavedra viewed it in this light, imagining that, in -the Itinerary of Antoninus from Cadiz to Cordoba, two distinct roads -were referred to; one proceeding direct, by way of Seville, whence it -was taken up by another road, afterwards described, to Cordoba; the -other (starting again from Cadiz) traversing the Serranía de Ronda to -Antequera, and proceeding thence to Cordoba by Ulía. Florez, however, -disputes this hypothesis, conceiving that but one route is intended, -and that from Seville onwards it was given, not as a direct road, but -merely as one by which troops might be marched if occasion required. -But why, if such were the case, a road should have been made that -increased the distance from Seville to Antequera from 85 to 121 miles, -he does not explain; and I confess, therefore, it seems to me, that Don -Maldonado Saavedra's supposition is the more probable. The distances, -however, between the modern places which he has named as corresponding -with those mentioned in the Itinerary do not at all agree; and he -also, in laying down the road from Cadiz to Antequera, has made it -unnecessarily circuitous. The following towns will be found to answer -much better with those mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, and the line -connecting them is one of the most practicable through the Serranía. - -_Iter a Gadis Corduba, milia plus minus 295 sic._ - - Roman miles. - - Ad pontem (Puente Zuazo) m. p. m. 12 - Portu Gaditano (Puerto Santa Maria) 14 - Hasta (near La Mesa de Asta) 16 - Ugia (Las Cabezas de San Juan) 27 - Orippo (Dos Hermanos) 24 - Hispali (Seville) 9 - - (returning now to the Puente Zuazo, we have to) - - Basilippo (a rocky mound and ruins between Paterna - and Alcalà de los Gazules) 21 - - -[59] Olbera, according to Saavedra. - -[60] This disagreement with the heading is in the original. - -[61] Cura de los Palacios. - -[62] The diminutive of Venta. - -[63] Are they English? - -[64] Literally--on which foot the business was lame. - -[65] - - He who shelters himself under a good tree, - gets a good shade. - - -[66] Name and surname. - -[67] Beneficed clergyman. - -[68] Glance--from ojo, eye. - -[69] Good for study. - -[70] The lower orders of Spaniards, generally speaking, imagine that -Protestantism implies a denial of the Godhead in the person of Our -Saviour, and consider that but for our eating pork, like _Christianos -Viejos_, we should be little better than Jews. For the whole seed of -Israel, they entertain a most preposterous dislike; so deep rooted is -it, indeed, that I once knew an instance of a young Spanish woman--far -removed from a _low_ station in life, however--who was perfectly -horrified on being told by an English lady that Our Saviour was a -Jew. Her exclamation of "Jesus!" was in a key which seemed to express -wonder that such a blasphemous assertion had not met with the summary -punishment of Annanias and Sapphira. I have no doubt but that the bad -success which has attended the _Cristina_ arms is attributed by the -lower orders less to the incapacity of Espartero and Co. than to the -Jewish blood flowing in the veins of Señor Mendizabel. - -[71] Mapping the town. - -[72] A Spanish side-saddle; or, more properly, an _arm-chair_, placed -sideways on a horse's back, with a board to rest the feet upon. - -[73] Female attendant. - -[74] Managing person. - -[75] Ages ago. - -[76] Many Roman Emperors. - -[77] As it is said, by an Englishman named Marlborough, and other very -distinguished persons. - -[78] Palacios, posadas, y todo--i.e., palaces, inns, and _every thing_. - -[79] Throughout Spain. - -[80] For every thing it has a cure--look you, &c. - -[81] Youngster. - -[82] The poor old Tio could not have acted under "proper directions," -as I am informed that he died the year following my last visit to the -_Hedionda_. - -[83] I drink no other--never any other--I cook and every thing with it. - -[84] Even to its bad smell. - -[85] Little walk. - -[86] A game that bears some resemblance to Boston. - -[87] The Invalid. - -[88] The water--nothing but the water--there is nothing in the world -more salutary. - -[89] They say that he was one of those lords, of whom there are so many -in England. - -[90] Heaps of gold. - -[91] To me it appears. - -[92] The Spaniards considered tea a medicine. - -[93] A gentleman in whom perfect confidence might be placed. - -[94] Yes, sir; that is true. - -[95] Pastures. - -[96] There are many robbers hereabouts--last year (accursed be these -rascally Spaniards!) a good fowling-piece was stolen from me in this -confounded narrow pass, &c. - -[97] These beggarly Spaniards, &c. - -[98] Young lady of the house. - -[99] Very well _combed_, literally--her hair well dressed. - -[100] Unequalled. - -[101] A young girl I am bringing up for (_i. e._ to be) a countess. - -[102] Now, gentlemen, it is necessary to load--these cowardly Spaniards -always fall suddenly upon one; and, if we are not prepared, we shall -be all netted, like so many little birds.--We are all well armed with -double-barrelled guns, and, with prudence, we shall have nothing to -fear--but ...! prudence is necessary. - -[103] In these parts, no evil-disposed persons whatever are to be met -with; that sort of _canaille_ know too well who Louis de Castro is. - -[104] A gazpacho, eaten hot. - -[105] Literally, _beds_--spots frequented by the deer. - -[106] Wolf. - -[107] The position taken up by the sportsmen is called the _cama_, as -well as the haunt of the game. - -[108] A day of foxes--an expression amongst Spanish sportsmen, -signifying an unlucky day. - -[109] Literally, light--here used as "_fire!_" - -[110] A wild boar! zounds! - -[111] Yes, it is a sow. - -[112] To escape from the thunder, and encounter the lightning. - -[113] The war-cry of the Spaniards. - -[114] I precede you with this motive, and in the shortest possible time -_all will be ready_. - -[115] Very dear friend of mine; aprec'ion, abbreviation of apreciacion; -esteem. - -[116] Go you with God ... and without a horse. - -[117] An ounce; i. e. a doubloon. - -[118] Get down directly. - -[119] Perhaps a flight of woodcocks will arrive to-night. Is it not -true, good father? - -[120] "It is infested with banditti at each step. Is it not true, Don -Diego, that that rocky path beyond Alcalà is called the road to the -infernal regions?" "Yes, yes--as true as holy writ." - -[121] Rock of Sancho. - -[122] The little stream that empties itself into the sea, near Tarifa, -is called _El_ Salado, _par excellence_, in consequence of the great -victory gained on its banks by Alfonso XI.; but, properly speaking, it -is El Salado _de Tarifa_. - -[123] Hirtius, Bel. Hisp. cap 7. - -[124] Ibid. cap. 8. - -[125] Dion--Lib. 48. - -[126] Dion and Hirtius. - -[127] Cap. 27. - -[128] _Singilia Hegua_, corrected by Hardouin to Singili Ategua.--The -ruins of Singili are on the banks of the Genil (Singilis) to the north -of Antequera. - -[129] It is a mere boast, however, for, according to Rocca, the French -entered the town and levied a contribution. - -[130] Scanty _vecinos_--a _vecino_, used as a _statistical_ term, -implies a hearth or family, though literally a neighbour. The Spanish -computation of population is always made by _vecinos_. - -[131] He does not understand. - -[132] Have no anxiety. - -[133] Mapping the country. - -[134] Town. - -[135] Fair and softly. - -[136] Nonsense. - -[137] Should this good woman be yet living, I suspect her opinion on -this point will have undergone a material change--like that of most -Spaniards. - -[138] With polite mien and deportment. - -[139] What a rare people are these English! - -[140] Mentioned by Hirtius--Bell. Hisp. Cap. XXVII. - -[141] The salutary waters of the divine Genil.--DON QUIJOTE. - -[142] Dion and Hirtius. - -[143] Zurita and Hardouin maintain, that it is not in the old editions -of Pliny. - -[144] Foreign gentlemen. - -[145] The wheel of fortune revolves more rapidly than that of a mill, -and those who were elevated yesterday, to-day are on the ground. - -[146] These _Salvo conductos_ were by no means uncommon in those days. -A friend of mine offered to procure me one to ensure me the protection -of the celebrated _José Maria_. - -[147] Forward, forward, heartless deceiver! - -[148] There is no wedding without its morrow's festival. - -[149] - - Between the hand and the mouth - the soup falls - - -[150] Holy face. - -[151] Uninhabited place. - -[152] Distant from Cordoba 300 stadia. - -[153] Distant fourteen miles from the Guadalquivír. - -[154] _Illiturgi quod Forum Julium._--PLINY. - -[155] Titus Livius, lib. 28. - -[156] Pliny. - -[157] To the parlour! to the parlour! - -[158] Be not afraid. - -[159] Stew. - -[160] Literally, that he could no more. - -[161] I, the king. - -[162] With us, I am sorry to say, "the honour of knighthood" has, in -too many instances, become rather an acknowledgment of so many years' -_good salary received_, than of any meritorious service performed. - -[163] A very small copper coin. - -[164] And this is a teapot! - -[165] A pillow! - -[166] What voluptuous people! - -[167] A stone--a flint. - -[168] How! without horses, without mules, without any thing, save steam! - -[169] The estate, so called, was bestowed on the Duke of Wellington, as -a slight acknowledgment of the distinguished services rendered by him -to the Spanish nation. - -[170] Santa Fé, built by Ferdinand and Isabella during the siege of -Granada, and dignified by them with the title of _city_, is a wretched -little walled town, of some twelve or fifteen hundred inhabitants; and, -excepting two full-length portraits of the Catholic kings contained in -the church, possesses nothing worthy of notice. - -[171] Eating; to use the expression of one of the peasants we conversed -with. - -[172] _Itinerary of Antoninus._ - - Malaca to Suel 21 m. p. m. - To Cilniana 24 " - To Barbariana 34 " - To Calpe Carteia 10 " - -- - Total 89 miles. - -Pomponius Mela has made sad confusion of the itinerary from Malaca to -Gades (of which the above is a part), by introducing Barbesula and -Calpe, and mentioning Carteia twice; but, on attentive observation, it -is evident he intended to imply that the road bifurked at Cilniana, -one branch going straight to Carteia by Barbariana, the other making a -detour by Barbesula and Calpe, and rejoining the former at Carteia; the -distance from Malaga to Cadiz, by the first route, being 155 miles, by -the latter 186. - -[173] Pliny. - -[174] Published in 1765. - -[175] "Two leagues" are his words--meaning Spanish measure, or eight -miles English; since he estimates the league at four miles. - -[176] Otherwise called Horgarganta. - -[177] Florez fixes Salduba where I suppose Cilniana to have stood, -i. e. on the eastern bank of the Rio Verde, about two miles to the -westward of Marbella. Cilniana he places at the Torre de Bovedas, a -site to which the objections above stated apply equally as to the -position assigned to that place by Mr. Carter. - -[178] Pliny places Salduba between Barbesula and Suel. - -[179] Marbella is a fine place, but do not enter it. - -[180] This may appear at variance with what I have said in computing -the distance from Malaca to Calpe Carteía in Roman miles--viz., only -eighty of eighty-three and one third to a degree of the meridian: but, -besides that the distance from Malaga to Gibraltar is at least three -English miles greater than to Carteía, the measurement I here give is -along a winding pathway, that makes the distance considerably more than -it would have been by a properly made road, even though it had followed -all the irregularities of the coast. - -[181] Bell. Hisp. cap. xxix. - -[182] Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga. - -[183] Traces of the first-named of these Roman roads may yet be seen -about Tolox. The latter was one of the great military roads mentioned -in the Itinerary of Antoninus, and, doubtless, existed long before that -work was compiled. - -[184] Hirtius, de Bell. Hisp. xxix. et seq. - -[185] Great allowance must be made for exaggeration in enumerating -the strength of contending armies in those early times, since even -in these days of despatches, bulletins, and Moniteurs, it is so -extremely difficult to get at the truth. The battle of Waterloo offers -a remarkable instance of this, for no two published accounts agree as -to the respective numbers of the belligerents, and one which I have -read--a French one, of course--swells the force under the Duke of -Wellington, on the 18th June, to 170,000 men!!! - -[186] The inscription is given at length in Florez España Sagrada. - -[187] The source of the Sigila, now called El Rio Grande, is -twenty-five English miles from Cartama, following the course of the -river. - -[188] Certainly _not_ Mr. Carter's, than which I never saw a more -complete caricature. Not one of the rivers is marked correctly upon it, -and the towns are scattered about where chance directed. - -[189] Hirtius Bell. Hisp. xxviii. - -[190] Ibid. xli. - -[191] An account of which place has already been given in Chapter I. of -this volume. - -[192] "Don Ferdinand the Seventh, by the grace of God, king of Castile, -Leon, Aragon, the Two Sicilies, Jerusalem, Navarre, Granada, Toledo, -Valencia, Gallicia, Majorca, Seville, Sardinia, Cordoba, Corsica, -Murcia, Jaen, the Algarves, Algeciras, Gibraltar, the Canary Islands, -the East and West Indies, islands and terra firma of the Great Ocean; -archduke of Austria; duke of Burgundy, Brabant, and Milan; Count of -Hapsburg, Flanders, the Tyrol, and Barcelona; Lord of Biscay and -Molina, &c."--The seeming wish to avoid prolixity, implied by this -"&c." is admirable. - -[193] _Clean_ blood. - -[194] At any price. - -[195] These love affairs are much to my taste. - -[196] Attractions--literally, _hooking_ qualities. - -[197] In fine--as it was captain for captain. - -[198] Not a bit. - -[199] Would to God! - -[200] Eating her life. - -[201] A Post league is equal to 3 British statute miles and 807 yards. - -[202] To Algeciras, by boat, saves 4 miles. - -[203] This is the only stage that is not perfectly practicable for a -carriage. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -Adventnre with Itinerant=> Adventure with Itinerant {pg v} - -gradully hauled=> gradually hauled {pg 54} - -rocky islot rises=> rocky islet rises {pg 62} - -in the joint-stock vilstge=> in the joint-stock village {pg 180} - -he exclaimed=> he ex-exclaimed {pg 212} - -It was necessry=> It was necessary {pg 241} - -the chace, and trust=> the chase, and trust {pg 256} - -addressiug me=> addressing me {pg 300} - -extarordinary=> extraordinary {pg 331} - -woollen mattrasses=> woollen mattresses {pg 337} - -too many intances=> too many instances {pg 346} - -decsends=> descends {pg 384} - -considered irresisitble=> considered irresistible {pg 387} - -acccordingly=> accordingly {pg 421} - -to unite her to to the son=> to unite her to the son {pg 429} - -long turned a a deaf ear=> long turned a deaf ear {pg 430} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda -and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43705-8.txt or 43705-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/0/43705/ - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Rochfort Scott. -</title> -<style type="text/css"> - p {margin-top:.2em;text-align:justify;margin-bottom:.2em;text-indent:4%;} - -.c {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - -.cb {text-align:center;text-indent:0%;font-weight:bold;} - -.enlargeimage {margin: 0 0 0 0; text-align: center; border: none;} - -@media print, handheld -{.enlargeimage - {display: none;} - } - -.hang {text-indent:-2%;margin-left:2%;font-size:80%;} - -.hangg {text-indent:-2%;margin-left:2%;font-size:100%;} - -.nind {text-indent:0%;} - -.r {text-align:right;margin-right: 5%;} - -small {font-size: 80%;} - - h1 {margin-top:5%;text-align:center;clear:both;} - - h2 {margin-top:4%;margin-bottom:2%;text-align:center;clear:both; - font-size:120%;} - - h3 {margin:4% auto 2% auto;text-align:center;clear:both;} - - hr {width:90%;margin:2em auto 2em auto;clear:both;color:black;} - - hr.full {width: 50%;margin:5% auto 5% auto;border:4px double gray;} - - table {margin-top:2%;margin-bottom:2%;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;border:none;text-align:left;} - -.tbl {font-size:80%;} - -.btb {border-top:1px solid black; -border-bottom:1px solid black;} - -.bt {border-top:1px solid black;} - -.bl {border-left:1px solid black;} - - body{margin-left:2%;margin-right:2%;background:#fdfdfd;color:black;font-family:"Times New Roman", serif;font-size:medium;} - -a:link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - - link {background-color:#ffffff;color:blue;text-decoration:none;} - -a:visited {background-color:#ffffff;color:purple;text-decoration:none;} - -a:hover {background-color:#ffffff;color:#FF0000;text-decoration:underline;} - -.smcap {font-variant:small-caps;font-size:100%;} - - img {border:none;} - -.blockquot {margin-top:2%;margin-bottom:2%;} - -.caption {font-weight:bold;} - -.figcenter {margin-top:3%;margin-bottom:3%; -margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;text-align:center;text-indent:0%;} - -.footnotes {border:dotted 3px gray;margin-top:5%;clear:both;} - -.footnote {width:95%;margin:auto 3% 1% auto;font-size:0.9em;position:relative;} - -.label {position:relative;left:-.5em;top:0;text-align:left;font-size:.8em;} - -.fnanchor {vertical-align:30%;font-size:.8em;} - -div.poetry {text-align:center;} -div.poem {font-size:90%;margin:auto auto;text-indent:0%; -display: inline-block; text-align: left;} -.poem .stanza {margin-top: 1em;margin-bottom:1em;} -.poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i1 {display: block; margin-left: .45em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 2em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i12 {display: block; margin-left: 12em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} -.poem span.i5 {display: block; margin-left: 5em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - -</style> - </head> -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and -Granada, with characteristic sketches of, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2 - -Author: Charles Rochfort Scott - -Release Date: September 12, 2013 [EBook #43705] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<table border="2" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin:auto;max-width:60%;"> - -<tr><td align="center">Etext transcriber’s note: The <a href="#FOOTNOTES">footnotes</a> have been located after the -etext. Corrections of some obvious typographical errors have been made -(<a href="#Typographical">a list follows the etext</a>); the spellings of several words currently -spelled in a different manner have been left un-touched. (i.e. -chesnut/chestnut; every thing/everything; Our’s/Ours; Codoba/Cordoba; -sanitory/sanitary; your’s/yours; janty/jaunty; -visiters/visitors; negociation/negotiation.) -The accentuation of words in Spanish has not been corrected or -normalized.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="295" height="520" alt="bookcover" title="" /> -</p> - -<p><a name="front" id="front"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/front_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/front.jpg" width="500" height="329" alt="On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre - - -CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR - -Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St." -title="On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre - -CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR - -Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption"><i><small>On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott -<span style="margin-left: 8%;">R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre</span></small></i><br /> -CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR<br /> -<i><small>Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St.</small></i></span> -<br /> -<a href="images/front_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="" -width="18" -height="14" /></a> -</p> - -<h1>E X C U R S I O N S<br /><br /> -<small><small><small>IN THE</small></small></small><br /><br /> -MOUNTAINS<br /><br /> -<small><small><small>OF</small></small></small><br /><br /> -RONDA AND GRANADA,<br /> -<small><small><small>WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES<br /> -OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN.</small></small></small></h1> - -<p class="cb"><small>BY</small><br /> -<big>CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT,</big><br /> -<small>AUTHOR OF “TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA.â€</small><br /></p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“<i>Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos</i><br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras.</i>â€<br /></span> -<span class="i12"><span class="smcap">Don Quijote.</span><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="cb">IN TWO VOLUMES.<br /> -<br /> -VOL. II.<br /> -<br /> -LONDON:<br /> -HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,<br /> -<small>GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.</small><br /> -—<br /> -1838.<br /> -<br /><br /> -<small>LONDON:<br /> -F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET.</small></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS<br /> -<small>OF</small><br /> -T H E -S E C O N D - V O L U M E.</h2> - -<p class="c">———</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin:auto;max-width:60%;"> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Departure from Cordoba—Post Road to Cadiz—Carlota—Ecija—Carmona—Road -from Ecija to Gibraltar—Locusts—Osuna—Saucejo—An -Olla in perfection—Ronda—Splendid Scenery -on the road to Grazalema—Distant View of Zahara—Grazalema—Extensive -Prospect from the Pass of Bozal—Secluded Orchards -of Benamajama—Pajarete—El Broque—Ubrique—Difficult -Road across the Mountains to Ximena—Our Guide in a rage—Fine -Scenery—Ximena—Strength of its Castle—Road to -Gibraltar </p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Departure for Cadiz—Road round the Bay of Gibraltar—Algeciras—Sandy -Bay—Gualmesi—Tarifa—Its Foundation—Error -of Mariana in supposing it to be Carteia—Battle of El -Salado—Mistake of La Martiniere concerning it—Itinerary -of Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified—Continuation of -Journey—Ventas of Tavilla and Retin—Vejer—Conil—Spanish -Method of Extracting Good from Evil—Tunny Fishery—Barrosa—Field -of Battle—Chiclana—Road to Cadiz—Puente -Zuazo—San Fernando—Temple of Hercules—Castle -of Santi Petri—Its Importance to Cadiz</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_033">33</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Cadiz—Its Foundation—Various Names—Past Prosperity—Made -a Free Port in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar—Unjust -Restrictions on the Commerce of the British Fortress—Description -of Cadiz—Its vaunted Agremens—Society—Monotonous -Life—Cathedral—Admirably built Sea Wall—Naval -Arsenal of La Carraca—Road to Xeres—Puerto Real—Puerto -de Santa Maria—Xeres—Its Filth—Wine Stores—Method -of Preparing Wine—Doubts of the Ancient and -Derivation of the Present Name of Xeres—Carthusian Convent—Guadalete—Battle -of Xeres</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_064">64</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Choice of Roads to Seville—By Lebrija—Mirage—The Marisma—Post -Road—Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios—Difficulty -of Reconciling any of these Routes with that of the -Roman Itinerary—Seville—General Description of the City—The -Alameda—Display of Carriages—Elevation of the Host—Public -Buildings—The Cathedral—Lonja—American Archives—Alcazar—Casa -Pilata—Royal Snuff Manufactory—Cannon -Foundry—Capuchin Convent—Murillo—Theatre of Seville—Observations -on the State of the National Drama—Moratin—The -Bolero—Spanish Dancing—The Spaniards not a Musical -People</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_090">90</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Society of Seville—Spanish Women—Faults of Education—Evils -of Early Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance—Environs -of Seville—Triana—San Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce—Ruins -of Italica—Italica not so ancient a City as Hispalis—Young -Pigs and the Muses—Departure from Seville—The -Marques De Las Amarillas—Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice of -the Late King of Spain—Alcala De Guadiara—Utrera—Observations -on the Strategical Importance of this Town—Moron—Military -operations of Riego—Apathy of the Serranos during -the Civil War—Olbera—Remarks on the Itinerary of Antoninus</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_123">123</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Ronda to Gaucin—Road to Casares—Difficulty in Procuring -Lodgings—Finally Overcome—The Cura’s House—View of the -Town from the Ruins of the Castle—Its Great Strength—Ancient -Name—Ideas of the Spaniards regarding Protestants—Scramble -to the Summit of the Sierra Cristellina—Splendid -View—Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of Sketching—The -Cura and his Barometer—Departure for the Baths of -Manilba—Romantic Scenery—Accommodation for Visiters—The -Master of the Ceremonies—Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar—River -Guadiaro and Venta</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_154">154</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">The Baths of Manilba—A Specimen of Fabulous History—Properties -of the Hedionda—Society of the Bathing Village—Remarkable -Mountain—An English Botanist—Town of Manilba—An -Intrusive Visiter—Ride to Estepona—Return by way of -Casares</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_179">179</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">A Shooting Party to the Mountains—Our Italian Piqueur, Damien -Berrio—Some Account of his Previous Life—Los Barrios—The -Beautiful Maid, and the Maiden’s Levelling Sire—Road to -Sanona—Reparation against Bandits—Arrival at the Caseria—Description -of its Owner and Accommodations—Fine Scenery—A -Batida</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_202">202</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Luis de Castro</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_226">226</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Don Luis’s Narrative is interrupted by a Boar—The Batida resumed—Departure -from Sanona—Road to Casa Vieja—The -Priest’s House—Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants—Departure -from Casa Vieja—Alcala De Los Gazules—Road to -Ximena—Return to Gibraltar</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_249">249</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Departure for Madrid—Cordon drawn round the Cholera—Ronda—Road -to Cordoba—Teba—Erroneous Position of the Place on -the Spanish Maps—Its Locality agrees with that of Ategua, as -described by Hirtius, and the Course of the River Guadaljorce -with that of the Salsus—Road to Campillos—The English-loving -Innkeeper and his Wife—An Alcalde’s Dinner spoilt—Fuente -De Piedra—Astapa—Puente Don Gonzalo—Rambla—Cordoba—Meeting -with an old Acquaintance</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_267">267</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">History of Blas El Guerrillero—<i>continued</i></p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_294">294</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid—Death of King -Ferdinand—Change in our Plans—Road to Andujar—Alcolea—Montoro—Porcuna—Andujar—Arjono—Torre -Ximeno—Difficulty of Gaining Admission—Success of a Stratagem—Consternation -of the Authorities—Spanish Adherence to -Forms—Contrasts—Jaen—Description of the Castle, City, -and Cathedral—La Santa Faz—Road to Granada—Our -Knightly Attendant—Parador de San Rafael—Hospitable Farmer—Astonishment -of the Natives—Granada—El Soto de -Roma—Loja—Venta de Dornejo—Colmenar—Fine Scenery—Road -from Malaga to Antequera, and Description of that City</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_325">325</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">Malaga—Excursion of Marbella and Monda—Churriana—Benalmania—Fuengirola—Discrepancy -of Opinion respecting the -Site of Suel—Scale to be adopted, in order to make the measurements -given in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with the -Actual Distance from Malaga to Carteia—Errors of Carter—Castle -of Fuengirola—Road to Marbella—Tower and Casa -Fuertes—Disputed Site of Salduba—Description of Marbella—Abandoned -Mines—Distance to Gibraltar</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_363">363</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain—Road -to Monda—Secluded Valley of Ojen—Monda—Discrepancy of -Opinion respecting the Site of the Roman City of Munda—Ideas -of Mr. Carter on the Subject—Reasons adduced for concluding -that Modern Monda occupies the Site of the Ancient City—Assumed -Positions of the Contending Armies of Cneius Pompey -and Cæsar, in the Vicinity of the Town—Road to Malaga—Towns -of Coin and Alhaurin—Bridge over the Guadaljorce—Return -to Gibraltar—Notable Instance of the Absurdity of -Quarantine Regulations</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_382">382</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th align="center" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></th></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg">The Knight of San Fernando</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_410">410</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td><p class="hangg"><span class="smcap"><a href="#APPENDIX">Appendix</a></span></p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_439">439</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a></p> - -<h1>E X C U R S I O N S<br /> -<small><small><small>IN THE</small></small></small><br /> -MOUNTAINS<br /> -<small><small><small>OF</small></small></small><br /> -RONDA AND GRANADA.</h1> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">DEPARTURE FROM CORDOBA—POST-ROAD TO -CADIZ—CARLOTA—ECIJA—CARMONA—ROAD FROM ECIJA TO -GIBRALTAR—LOCUSTS—OSUNA—SAUCEJO—AN OLLA IN -PERFECTION—RONDA—SPLENDID SCENERY ON THE ROAD TO -GRAZALEMA—DISTANT VIEW OF ZAHARA—GRAZALEMA—EXTENSIVE PROSPECT -FROM THE PASS OF BOZAL—SECLUDED ORCHARDS OF -BENAMAJAMA—PAJARETE—EL BROQUE—UBRIQUE—DIFFICULT ROAD ACROSS THE -MOUNTAINS TO XIMENA—OUR GUIDE IN A RAGE—FINE -SCENERY—XIMENA—STRENGTH OF ITS CASTLE—ROAD TO GIBRALTAR.</p></div> - -<p>O<small>N</small> leaving Cordoba, we turned our horses’ heads homewards, taking the -<i>arrecife</i>, or high road, to Seville and Cadiz. This appears to follow -the <i>direct</i> Roman military way given in detail in the Itinerary of -Antoninus; the distances from station to station, on the modern road, -agreeing perfectly with those specified in the Itinerary,<a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a> which, as it -runs very straight as far as Ecija, would not be the case if the Roman -road had diverged either to the right or left, as some are disposed to -make it, placing <i>Adaras</i> (one of the intermediate stations) on the -margin of the GuadalquivÃr.</p> - -<p>Several monuments, bearing inscriptions alluding to this military way, -are preserved at Cordoba. They all describe it as being from the temple -of Janus <i>to</i> the BÅ“tis, (meaning, it must be presumed, the <i>mouth</i> -of the river) and to the ocean.</p> - -<p>The road is no longer paved, as it is described to have been in those -days; but, nevertheless, it is good enough to enable a lumbering -diligence to pulverize the gravel daily on its tedious way between -Madrid and Seville. It is also furnished with relays of post horses,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> -but the posting establishments being, as in most other countries of -Europe, under the direction of the government, is a satire upon the term -<i>post haste</i>.</p> - -<p>From Cordoba to Ecija is ten leagues.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The road, on reaching the river -<i>Badajocillo</i>, or Guadajoz, which is crossed by a lofty stone bridge, -commanding a fine view of Cordoba, leaves the rich alluvial valley of -the GuadalquivÃr, and<a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a> enters upon an undulated tract of country, that -extends nearly all the way to Ecija. At three leagues is the scattered -village and post-house of Mango-negro, and three leagues beyond that -again, the settlement of Carlota. The ride is most uninteresting; as, -besides being tamely outlined and thinly peopled, the country is nearly -destitute of wood, and, in the summer season, of water; though, judging -from the extraordinary number of bridges, especially on drawing near -Carlota, there must be a superabundance in winter. Carlota is one of the -numerous villages which Charles the Third colonized from the Tyrol. It -consists principally of isolated cottages, standing some hundred yards -apart, and the same distance from the road; but there is a small -congregation of houses round the chapel, post-house, and <i>Casa del -Ayuntamiento</i>,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> and a <i>Gasthof</i>, which I can say, from personal -experience, would do no discredit to Innsbruck itself.</p> - -<p>The parish contains 250 houses, and a population of 1500 souls. The -fields round Carlota certainly appear to be better tilled than those in -other parts of the country, and there is a German tidiness about its -white cottages, as well as a platterfacedness about the little -white-headed urchins assembled round the doors, that are quite -anti-Spanish.<a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a></p> - -<p>We obtained an excellent dinner at the <i>Tyroler Adler</i>, and, in the -afternoon, taking a by-road that struck off from the post route to the -right, cantered through plantations of olives nearly all the way to -Ecija,—four leagues. In the whole of the distance we did not see a drop -of running water, until we arrived on the brow of the hill overlooking -the river Genil. From this spot there is a fine view of the city of -Ecija, situated on the opposite bank.</p> - -<p>The volume of the Genil increases but little between Granada and Ecija; -for its principal feeders, though falling into it below Granada, are -expended in irrigating the <i>vega</i>; and the <i>salados</i>, on the western -side of the <i>SerranÃa de Ronda</i>, are mostly dry during the summer. In -winter, however, the Genil is so increased, that the bridge at Ecija (a -solid stone structure of eleven arches,) is carried quite across the -valley, although the bed of the river is not above 100 yards wide.</p> - -<p>Ecija is the Astigi of the Romans. It stands on a gentle acclivity, some -little distance from the Genil, and bears evident marks of antiquity. -Almost all traces of its walls have disappeared, however; and what -little remains of its tapia-built castle shows it to have been a work of -the Moors. The principal streets are wide, and contain many good houses; -and the <i>plaza</i> is particularly well worth a visit from the lovers of -the picturesque.<a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a></p> - -<p>The city contains sixteen convents, and two hospitals, with churches in -proportion. None of them offers much to interest the protestant -traveller; but, I believe, several boast of possessing valuable relics. -The Royal stud-house is fast going to decay.</p> - -<p>The population of Ecija is estimated at 30,000 souls; a number that -appears totally disproportioned to the size of the city; particularly, -as it contains but a few tanneries, and trifling manufactories of shoes, -saddlery, &c. But, from the extreme fertility of the soil in its -neighbourhood—considered the most productive and best cultivated in -Andalusia—it is very possible this amount may not be exaggerated; for -in Spain the agriculturalists do not scatter themselves about in small -villages and hamlets over its surface, as in other countries, but -assemble together in large towns; so that those places which are -situated in fertile districts are as densely populated as our -manufacturing towns.</p> - -<p>The distance that a Spanish peasant sometimes travels daily, to and from -his work, is truly surprising, in a people that, generally speaking, -like to save themselves trouble. Whilst getting in the harvest, however, -they erect <i>ranchas</i>, or rush huts, to shelter them from the midday sun -and night dews, and dwell in these temporary habitations until their -work is completed.<a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a></p> - -<p>The crops of corn in the neighbourhood of Ecija are remarkably fine, -yielding forty to one, and though not so tall, perhaps, as those of the -<i>vega</i> of Granada, the grains are larger and better ripened.</p> - -<p>I must not omit to say a good word for the <i>Posada</i>,—the -Post-house,—which I do the more willingly from being so seldom called -upon to speak in terms of commendation of Spanish “houses of -entertainment.†Suffice it to observe, that, provided the traveller be -very hungry, and moderately fatigued, he may reckon on getting a supper -that he will be able to eat, and a bed whereon—albeit hard—he may -obtain some hours’ unmolested repose.</p> - -<p>The remainder of the post road to Seville is so perfectly uninteresting, -that, reserving the Andalusian capital for a future tour, I shall take a -more direct route back to Gibraltar, through the <i>SerranÃa</i> de Ronda; -merely offering a few remarks on the town of Carmona, which is situated -about two thirds of the way between Ecija and Seville, and referring my -readers to the Itinerary in the Appendix for any further details as to -the distances from place to place along the road.</p> - -<p>Carmona is one of the few Roman towns of BÅ“tica of whose identity -there is scarcely a doubt; its name having undergone little or no -change. It is mentioned by most of the ancient<a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a> writers, and called by -them, indifferently, Carmo and Carmona, and by Julius Cæsar was esteemed -one of the strongest posts in the whole country. Its position, -considered relatively with the adjacent ground, is, indeed, most -commanding; being on the edge of a vast plateau of very elevated land, -which, stretching many miles to the south, falls abruptly along the -course of the river Corbones.</p> - -<p>The Roman name for this river is, I think, doubtful. Florez, and most -antiquaries, suppose it to be the <i>Silicensis</i>. Some, and, as it appears -to me, with better reason, give that name to the Badajocillo. Be that as -it may, the Corbones is but an inconsiderable stream, and is now crossed -by a stone bridge of three arches.</p> - -<p>The ascent to Carmona is very steep and tedious. The city is entered -through a triumphal Roman arch, which was repaired and spoilt by order -of Charles III. Another Roman gateway stands at the southern extremity -of the town, by which the road to Seville leaves it; and various parts -of the walls which yet encompass the place are the work of the same -people. The castle, however, is a relique of the Moors, and in a very -ruinous condition.</p> - -<p>This stronghold was wrested from the Moors by San Fernando, after a six -months’ investment. It was a favourite place of residence of<a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a> Peter, -surnamed the Cruel, who, looking upon it as impregnable, left his -children there in fancied security when he took the field for the last -time against his brother. Soon after Peter’s death, however, it fell -into the hands of his rival, who, according to some accounts, caused the -children (his nephews) to be put to death in cold blood.</p> - -<p>The streets of Carmona are wide, clean, and well-paved; and the alameda -is enchanting, commanding a superb view of the ruined fortress, and over -the rich vales of the Corbones, and more distant GuadalquivÃr, and -embracing, at the same time, the whole chain of the Ronda mountains to -the eastward.</p> - -<p>The population of the place is about 10,000 souls. The inn is execrable.</p> - -<p>The post road to Cadiz is directed from Carmona on Alcalà de Guadiara, -where a branch to Seville strikes off, nearly at a right angle, to the -east, thereby making a considerable détour. But in summer, carriages -even may proceed to Seville by a cross road, which not only lessens the -dust, but reduces the distance from six <i>long</i> to the same number of -<i>short</i> leagues; or, in other words, effects a saving of about three -miles.</p> - -<p>I now return to Ecija, and take the road from that city to Osuna; which -is tolerably good, and practicable for carriages during the greater part -of the year. The distance is five<a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a> (very long) leagues. The country -presents a slightly undulated surface, and, excepting round the edges of -some basins wherein extensive lakes have been formed, is altogether -under the plough. At a little distance from the road, on the left hand, -a stream, called <i>El Salado</i>, flows towards the Genil. It does not -communicate with these lakes, nor has the name it bears been given from -its being impregnated with salt.</p> - -<p>During our ride, we observed a number of men advancing in skirmishing -order across the country, and thrashing the ground most savagely with -long flails. Curious to know what could be the motive for this -Xerxes-like treatment of the earth, we turned out of the road to inspect -their operations, and found they were driving a swarm of locusts into a -wide piece of linen spread on the ground at some distance before them, -wherein they were made prisoners. These animals are about three times -the size of an English grasshopper. They migrate from Africa, and their -spring visits are very destructive; for in a single night they will -entirely eat up a field of young corn.</p> - -<p>The <i>Caza de Langostas</i><a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> is a very profitable business to the -peasantry; as, besides a reward obtained from the proprietor of the soil -in consideration for service done, they sell the produce of their -<i>chasse</i> for manure at so much a sack.<a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a></p> - -<p>Osuna is generally admitted to be the Urso,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Ursao, and Ursaon, of the -Roman historians; though it agrees in no one particular with the -description given of that place by Hirtius; for it is not by any means -“strong by nature;†it is in the vicinity of extensive -forests—rendering it perfectly absurd to suppose that Cæsar’s troops -“had to bring wood thither all the way from Munda;"—and, so far from -“there being no rivulet within eight miles of the place,â€<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> a fine -stream meanders under its very walls.</p> - -<p>The town is situated at the foot of a hill that screens it effectually -to the eastward, and the summit of which is occupied by an old castle of -considerable strength and size, but now fast crumbling to decay. The -streets are wide and well paved, the houses particularly good;—indeed, -some of the palaces of the provincial nobility (with whom it was -formerly a favourite place of residence) are strikingly handsome; in -particular, that of the Duke who takes his title from the city; and -notwithstanding that the streets are overgrown with grass, and the -houses covered with mildew, I am, nevertheless, disposed to call Osuna -the best built and handsomest city in Andalusia, it contains a -university, fourteen convents, for both sexes, and a population of -16,000 souls; but has little or no trade—in fact, though on the -crossing of two<a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a> high roads, (viz., from Gibraltar to Madrid, and from -Granada to Seville) it has all the dullness of a secluded country -village.</p> - -<p>The vicinity is very fruitful in olives and corn; the soil is a whitish -clay. To the S.E. the country is tolerably level all the way to -Antequera, and to the west is nearly flat to Seville; but at about a -mile southward from the city, shoot up the entangled roots of the -mountains of Ronda, presenting on that side a belt of very intricate -country. There are two roads to that place, the distance by the better, -which, I think, is also rather the shorter, of the two, is nine leagues. -It leaves Osuna by the gate of Granada, and, crossing the -before-mentioned stream (which is one of the sources of the Corbones), -advances some distance along a wide olive-planted valley. It then quits -the great road to Granada (which continues along the valley), and -ascends a steep and very long hill, from the crest of which, distant -about three miles from Osuna, there is a splendid view of the city, and -of the spacious plains extending to and bordering the distant -GuadalquivÃr, studded with the towns of Marchena, Fuentes, Palmar, and -Carmona.</p> - -<p>The road continues along the summit of the elevated range of hills which -it has now attained, for about five miles, winding amongst some -singularly mammillated hummocks, that<a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a> have very much the appearance of -the tumuli left in an exhausted mining country. A succession of strongly -marked and peculiarly rugged ravines present themselves along the -eastern side of the ridge, and the ground falls also very abruptly in -the opposite direction; but to the south, whither the road is directed, -the descent is much more gradual; and from the foot of the hill, which -is bathed by a rivulet wending its way to the Genil, the country is -tolerably level, and the road extremely good the remaining distance to -Saucejo.</p> - -<p>In former days, this route was practicable for carriages throughout, and -with very little labour it might again be made so; but, though the high -road from the capital to Algeciras and Gibraltar, it is but little -travelled. The other road from Osuna to Ronda joins in here on the -right.</p> - -<p>The village of Saucejo is a post station three leagues from Osuna, and -six from Ronda. It contains some eight hundred inhabitants, great -abundance of stabling, but not one decent house. The posada is a -peculiarly unpromising establishment, and the landlady’s face such as to -shut out all hope of any sound wine being found within its influence. We -had left Osuna so late in the day, however, that it would have been vain -to attempt reaching Ronda ere nightfall.<a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a></p> - -<p>We, therefore, reluctantly took possession of the <i>sala</i>, and, -presenting our sour-faced hostess with a rabbit and some partridges that -we had purchased on the road, asked if she could furnish the other -requisites for the concorporation of an <i>olla</i>, and whether it would be -possible to let us have our meal ere midnight; to both of which -questions, with sundry consequential nods of the head, she replied -severally, <i>en casa llena, presto se guisa la cena</i>.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> Notwithstanding -this assurance, our supper was long in making its appearance, for the -operations of an <i>olla</i> cannot be hurried. But, when it did come, it -bespoke our landlady to be a <i>cordon bleu</i> of the first class; the -<i>pimento</i><a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> had been administered with judgment; the <i>berza</i><a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> had -duly extracted the flavour from the rabbit and partridges; the -<i>chorizo</i><a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> had imparted but the desirable smack of garlic to the -other ingredients; and the nutty savour of the <i>tocino</i><a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> was beyond -all praise. Nor was her wine such as we had expected; though somewhat -too light to have much influence on the digestion of the unctuous mess -placed before us.<a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a></p> - -<p>From Saucejo the road again branches into two, one route proceeding by -way of Almargen, the other by the Venta del Granadal. Both are -<i>reckoned</i> six leagues; but the last mentioned is better than the other, -as well as shorter by several miles. It crosses a considerable stream -(here called the Algamitas, but which is, in fact, the main source of -the Corbones) by a ford, about three miles from Saucejo. The descent to -the stream is very bad, and, after keeping along its bank for another -mile, the road mounts to some elevated table land, from which the view -to the westward is obstructed by the rocky peaks of two detached -mountains about a mile off. These may be considered the outposts of the -SerranÃa in that direction; and, on the rough side of the more -considerable of the two, is the <i>Hermita de Caños Santos</i>.</p> - -<p>The country becomes very wild as the road advances, and rugged tors, -partially covered with wood, rise on all sides. At nine miles from -Saucejo is the lone venta of Grañadal, and beyond it the mountains rise -to a yet greater height, but their slopes are less abrupt, and are -covered with forests of oak and cork. At twelve miles a track branches -off to the right, proceeding to the little town of Alcalà del Valle, -which, though distant only about half a mile, is not visible from the -road. Soon after,<a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a> a wide valley opens to the view, at the bottom of -which, encased by steep rocky banks, flows the river <i>Guadalete</i>. This -river is by some considered the <i>Lethe</i> of the ancients; but, if it be -so, our long-cherished notions of the beauty of the Elysian fields have -been wofully faulty, for the country is rather tame, and the soil stony -and ungrateful. Thus far, however, it answers the description of Virgil, -that you</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Breathe in ample fields the soft Elysian air.â€<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The town of Setenil is perched on a crag overhanging the left bank of -the Guadalete, and distant about three miles from the road, which keeps -under the broad summit of the hills forming the northern boundary of -Elysium. The sides of these are partially cultivated, and, from time to -time, a low cottage is met with as the road proceeds; but it soon enters -a cork-forest, and, threading its dark mazes for about four miles, -gradually gains the crest of the chain of hills overlooking the vale of -Ronda to the north, whence a splendid view is obtained of the fertile -basin, its rock-built fortress, and jagged sierras.</p> - -<p>The descent on the southern side of the hills is rather rapid, and, -after proceeding downwards about a mile, the road is joined on the left -by the other route from Saucejo. From hence to Ronda is two short -leagues. The road still continues descending for another mile;<a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a> and, in -the course of the two following, it crosses three deep ravines, watered -by copious streams, and planted with all sorts of fruit-trees.</p> - -<p>In the bottom of one of these dells is ensconced the village of Arriate. -The last is a deep and very singular rent that extends, east and west, -quite across the basin of Ronda. Immediately after crossing this -fissure, the road begins to ascend the range of hills whereon Ronda is -situated, and, after winding for three miles amongst vineyards, olive -grounds, and corn-fields, enters the city on its north side.</p> - -<p>We were seven hours performing the journey, although the distance is but -six <i>leguas regulares</i>.</p> - -<p>I have already given so full a description of Ronda, that I will pass on -without further remark.</p> - -<p>To vary the scenery, and moved by curiosity to visit some of the scenes -of our acquaintance Blas’s exploits, we determined to take a somewhat -circuitous route homewards, by way of Grazalema and Ubrique.</p> - -<p>The distance to the first named town is three long leagues. The road -descends gradually to the south-western extremity of the basin of Ronda, -where the Guadiaro, forming its junction with the Rio Verde, enters a -rocky defile, and is lost sight of amidst the roots of the rugged<a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a> -sierras that spread themselves in all directions towards the -Mediterranean.</p> - -<p>Crossing the last named stream just before its confluence with the -Guadiaro, the road at once begins ascending towards a deeply marked gap, -that breaks the ridge of the mountains which rise along the right bank -of the stream.</p> - -<p>The pass is about four miles from Ronda, and commands a splendid view of -the fruitful valley, which lies, like an outspread <i>cornucopia</i>, at its -foot. On the other side, too, the scenery is not less fine, though of a -totally different nature. There a singular double-peaked crag rises up -boldly and darkly on the left hand, casting its shadow on the bright -foliage of an oak forest, which, deep sunk below the rest of the -country, spreads its verdant covering as far to the eastward as where -the huge Sierra Endrinal raises its cloud-enveloped head above all the -other mountains of the range. High seated on the side of this, a white -speck is seen which, in the course of time, proves to be the town of -Grazalema, whither we are bending our steps.</p> - -<p>Proceeding onwards, from the pass about a mile, the little village of -Montejaque shows itself, peeping from between the two peaks of the -mountain on the left, and, seemingly, quite inaccessible, even to a -goat.</p> - -<p>It is inhabited by a horde of half-tamed Saracens, who pride themselves -greatly on having<a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a> foiled all the attempts of the French to make -themselves masters of the place;<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> and, as this elevated little -village is but three quarters of a mile from the high road, (which is -the principal communication between Malaga and Cadiz) it must have -possessed the means of annoying the enemy considerably.</p> - -<p>For the next two miles our way lay along the spine of a somewhat -elevated ridge; whence we looked down upon the before-mentioned wooded -country on one side, and on the other into a well cultivated valley. -From the bed of this, but at several leagues’ distance, the rock-built -town of Zahara rears its embattled head.</p> - -<p>This little fortress is very noted in Moorish history; its capture by -Muley Aben Hassan, during a period of truce, having provoked the renewal -of the war which led to the loss of the crown, not only to himself -first, but to his race afterwards.</p> - -<p>One of the sources of the Guadalete flows in this valley, bathing the -walls of Zahara, which stands on the site of the Roman town of -Lastigi.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> The present name, I should imagine, (considering the -locality) is derived rather from the Arabic word <i>Zaharat</i> (mountain -top) than <i>ZÄhara</i>, (flowery) as supposed by Mr. Carter;<a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a> for the -streets are cut out of the live rock on which the place is built.</p> - -<p>The road to Grazalema, now mounting another step, enters a dark forest, -and, continuing for five miles along the top of a narrow ridge, descends -into a vine-clad valley, that spreads out at the foot of the rough -sierra on the side of which Grazalema is seated.</p> - -<p>The ascent to the town is very bad, and is rendered worse than it -otherwise would be by being paved—for a paved road in Spain is sure to -be neglected. We scrambled up with much difficulty, and alighting at the -posada, remained for an hour or two, to procure some breakfast, and -examine the place.</p> - -<p>It is a singularly built town, the streets being heaped one above -another, like steps; and in several instances they are even worked out -of the native rock. There is, nevertheless, a fine open market-place, -which we found well supplied with fruit, vegetables, and game, including -venison and wild boar; and the town possesses several manufactories of -coarse cloths and serges.</p> - -<p>From its situation, immediately over the mouth of a deep ravine, by -which alone access can be obtained to one of the principal passes in the -SerranÃa, Grazalema occupies a very important military position, and may -be considered almost inassailable; for, whilst at its back a perfectly -impracticable mountain covers<a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a> it from attack, it is protected to the -north and east by the precipitous ravine it overlooks; up the side of -which, even the narrow road from Ronda has not been practised without -much labour. The only side, therefore, on which it has to apprehend -danger, is that fronting the pass above it—i.e. to the westward. But it -has the means of offering an obstinate resistance, even in that -direction.</p> - -<p>Commanding, as it thus does, so important a passage over the mountains, -there can be but little doubt that Grazalema stands upon, or near, the -site of some Roman fortress; and, for reasons which I shall hereafter -mention, I feel inclined to place here the town of Ilipa.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> - -<p>The inhabitants amount to about 6,000, and are a savage, -ruffianly-looking race. During the “War of Independence,†assisted by -their brethren of the neighbouring mountain fastnesses, they frequently -rose against their invaders, driving them out of the place; and on one -occasion they repulsed a French column of several thousand men, which -was sent to dispossess them of their stronghold.</p> - -<p>On leaving Grazalema, the road enters the narrow, rock-bound ravine -leading up to the pass, down which a noisy torrent rushes, leaping from -precipice to precipice, and lashing the<a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a> base of the crag-built town, -whence we had just issued. A newly-built bridge, whose high-crowned arch -places it beyond the anger of the foaming stream, gives a passage to the -road to Zahara, which winds along the eastern face of the Sierra del -Pinar. Our route, however, continues ascending yet a mile and a half -along the right bank of the torrent, ere it reaches the long descried -gap in the mountain chain, the name of which is <i>El Puerto Bozal</i>.</p> - -<p>This is considered one of the most elevated passes in the whole SerranÃa -de Ronda, and must be at least 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. -The mountains on either side rise to a far greater elevation; that on -the right, distinguished by the name of <i>El Pico de San Cristoval</i>, is -said (as has already been stated) to have been the first land made by -Columbus on his return from the discovery of the “New World.â€</p> - -<p>The views from this pass are truly grand. At our backs lay the -beautifully wooded country we had travelled over in the morning—Ronda -and its vale, and the distant sierras of El Burgo and Casarabonela. -Before us, a wild mountain country extended for several miles; and -beyond, spreading as far as the eye could reach, were the vast plains of -Arcos, through which the gladdening Guadalete, winding its way past -Xeres, turns to seek the bay of Cadiz, whose glassy surface the white -walls of its<a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a> proud mistress, and the deep blue ocean, could be seen -distinctly on the left, though at a distance of more than fifty miles.</p> - -<p>From the Puerto Bozal, a <i>trocha</i>, directed straight upon Ubrique, -strikes off to the left; but the saving in point of distance which this -road offers, is counterbalanced by its extreme ruggedness. We, -therefore, took the more circuitous route to that place by El Broque, -which, for the first five miles, is itself sufficiently bad to satisfy -most people. The views along it, looking to the south, are very fine; -but the lofty barren range of San Cristoval, on the side of which it is -conducted, shuts out the prospect in the opposite direction.</p> - -<p>At length, crossing over a narrow tongue that protrudes from the side of -the rugged mountain, we entered a dark, wooded ravine, and began to -descend very rapidly, and, to our astonishment, by a very good road. -After proceeding in this way about a mile, the valley gradually -expanding, we emerged from the wood, and found ourselves in a -sequestered glen of surpassing loveliness. A neat white chapel, with a -picturesque belfry, stood on a sloping green bank on our right hand, -and, scattered in all directions about it, were the trim, vine-clad -cottages of its frequenters, each screened partially from the sun in a -grove of almond, cherry, and orange trees. A crystal<a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a> stream gurgled -through the fruitful dell, which was bounded at some little distance by -high wooded hills and rocky cliffs.</p> - -<p>This secluded retreat is called <i>La Huerta<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> de Benamajáma</i>,—the -peculiarly guttural name proving it to have been a little earthly -paradise of the Moors.</p> - -<p>The road, which had thus far been nearly west, here, continuing along -the course of the little river Posadas, turns to the south; and, keeping -under a range of wooded hills on the left hand, in about an hour reaches -El Broque. This portion of the road is very good, and from it, looking -over the great plain bordering the Guadalete, may be seen the lofty -tower of <i>Pajarete</i>, perched on a conical mound, at about a league’s -distance. The justly celebrated sweet wine called by this name was -originally produced from the vineyards in its vicinity, but it is now -made principally at Xeres.</p> - -<p>El Broque is a small clean town, abounding in wood and water, and -containing from 1500 to 2000 inhabitants. To the east it is overshadowed -by a range of lofty, wooded hills, which may be considered the last -buttresses of the SerranÃa; for the road to Cadiz, which here branches -off to the right, crossing the Posadas, traverses an uninterrupted plain -all the way to Arcos.<a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a></p> - -<p>The route to Ubrique, on the other hand, again strikes into the -mountains; though, for yet two miles further, it follows the course of -the little river and its impending sierra. Arrived, however, at the -mouth of a ravine, which brings down another mountain-torrent to the -plain, it turns to the north, keeping along the margin of the stream, -until the bridge of Tavira offers the means of passage; when, crossing -to the opposite bank, it once more enters the intricate belt of -mountains.</p> - -<p>The name of the stream which is here crossed is the Majaceite; and on -its right bank, close to the bridge, is a solitary venta. The scenery is -extremely beautiful. The mountains of Grazalema, which we had traversed -in the morning, form the background; the ruined tower of Alamada, -perched on an isolated knoll, stands boldly forward in middle distance; -and close at hand are the rough, coppiced banks and crystal current of -the winding Majaceite.</p> - -<p>From hence to Ubrique the country is very wild and rugged. The town is -first seen (when about a league off) from the summit of a round-topped -hill, six miles from El Broque. It is nestled in the bottom of a deep -valley, hemmed in by singularly rugged mountains. The first part of the -descent is gradual, but a steep neck of land must be crossed ere -reaching the town; and, as if to render the approach as difficult as<a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a> -possible, the road over this mound has been paved.</p> - -<p>Amongst the rude masses of sierra that encompass Ubrique, numerous -rivulets pierce their way to the lowly valley, where, collected in two -streams, they are conducted to the town, and, fertilizing the ground in -its neighbourhood, cause it to be encircled by a belt of most luxuriant -vegetation. The mountains in the vicinity abound also in lead-mines, but -they are no longer worked. “Where are we to find money? Where are we to -look for security?†were the answers given to <i>my</i> question, “Why not?â€</p> - -<p>The streets of Ubrique are wide, clean, and well paved; the houses lofty -and good; but the inn, alas! affords the wearied traveller little more -than bare walls and a wooden floor. The population of the place may be -estimated at 8000 souls. It contains some tanneries, water-mills, and -manufactories of hats and coarse cloths. It does not strike me as being -a likely site for a Roman city.</p> - -<p>We were on horseback by daybreak, having before us a long ride, and, for -the first five leagues (to Ximena), a very difficult country to -traverse. For about a mile the road is paved, and confined to the vale -in which Ubrique stands by a precipitous mountain. But, the westernmost -point of this ridge turned, the<a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a> route to Ximena (leaving a road to -Alcalà de los Gazules on the right) takes a more southerly direction -than heretofore, and, entering a hilly country, soon dwindles into a -mere mule-track. Ere proceeding far in this direction, another road -branches off to Cortes, winding up towards some cragged eminences that -serrate the mountain-chain on the left. The path to Ximena, however, -continues yet two miles further across the comparatively undulated -country below, which thus far is under cultivation; but, on gaining the -summit of a hill, distant about four miles from Ubrique, a complete -change takes place in the face of the country; the view opening upon a -wide expanse of forest, furrowed by numerous deep ravines, and studded -with rugged tors.</p> - -<p>The road through this overshadowed labyrinth is continually mounting and -descending the slippery banks of the countless torrents that intersect -it, twisting and winding in every direction; and, on gaining the heart -of the forest, the path is crossed and cut up by such numbers of -timber-tracks, and is screened from the sun’s cheering rays by so -impervious a covering, that the difficulty of choosing a path amongst -the many which presented themselves was yet further increased by that of -determining the point of the compass towards which they were -respectively directed.<a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a></p> - -<p>The guide we had brought with us, though pretending to be thoroughly -acquainted with every pathway in the forest, was evidently as much at a -<i>nonplus</i> as we ourselves were; and his muttered <i>malditos</i> and -<i>carajos</i>, like the rolling of distant thunder, announced the coming of -a storm. At length it burst forth: the track he had selected, after -various windings, led only to the stump of a venerable oak. Never was -mortal in a more towering passion; he snatched his hat from his head, -threw it on the ground, and stamped upon it, swearing by, or at—for we -could hardly distinguish which—all the saints in the calendar. After -enjoying this scene for some time, we spread ourselves in different -directions in search of the beaten track; and, at last, a swineherd, -attracted by our calls to each other, came to our deliverance; and our -guide, after bestowing sundry <i>malditos</i> upon the wood, the torrents, -the timber-tracks, and those who made them, resumed his wonted state of -composure, assuring us, that there was some accursed hobgoblin in this -<i>hi-de-puta</i> forest, who took delight in leading good Catholics astray; -that during the war an entire regiment, misled by some such -<i>malhechor</i>,<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> had been obliged to bivouac there for the night, to the -great detriment of his very Catholic Majesty’s service.<a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a></p> - -<p>Soon after this little adventure we reached a solitary house, called the -<i>Venta de Montera</i>, which is something more than half way between -Ubrique and Ximena; <i>i.e.</i> eleven miles from the former, and nine from -the latter. A little way beyond this the road reaches an elevated chain -of hills, that separates the rivers Sogarganta and Guadiaro; the summit -of which being rather a succession of peaks than a continuous ridge, -occasions the track to be conducted sometimes along the edge of one -valley, sometimes of the other. The mountain falls very ruggedly to the -first-named river, but in one magnificent sweep to the Guadiaro.</p> - -<p>The views on both sides are extremely fine; that on the left hand -embraces Gibraltar’s cloud-wrapped peaks, the mirror-like Mediterranean, -Spain’s prison-fortress of Ceuta, and the blue mountains of MauritanÃa; -the other looks over the silvery current of the Sogarganta, winding -amidst the roots of a peculiarly wild and wooded country, and towards -the rock-built little fortress of Castellar.</p> - -<p>The road continues winding along this elevated heather-clad ridge for -four miles, and then descends by rapid zig-zags towards Ximena.</p> - -<p>The town lies crouching under the shelter of a rocky ledge, that, -detached from the rest of the sierra, and crowned with the ruined towers -of an ancient castle, forms a bold and very picturesque<a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a> feature in the -view, looking southward. The town is nearly a mile in length, and -consists principally of two long narrow streets, one extending from -north to south quite through it, the other leading up to the castle. The -rest of the <i>callejones</i><a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> are disposed in steps up the steep side of -the impending hill, and can be reached only on foot.</p> - -<p>The old castle—in great part Roman, but the superstructure Moorish—is -accessible only on the side of the town (east), and in former days must -have been almost impregnable. The narrow-ridged ledge whereon it stands -has been levelled, as far as was practicable, to give capacity to this -citadel, which is 400 yards in length, and varies in breadth from 50 to -80. It rises gently, so as to form two hummocks at its extremities; and -the narrowest part of the inclosure being towards the centre, it has -very much the form of a calabash.</p> - -<p>A strongly built circular tower, mounting artillery, and enclosed by an -irregular loop-holed work of some strength, occupies the southern peak -of the ridge; and a fort of more modern structure, but feeble profile, -covers that in which it terminates to the north. An irregularly indented -wall, or in some places scarped rock, connects these two retrenched -works along the eastern side of the ridge; but, in the opposite<a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a> -direction, the cliff falls precipitously to the river Sogarganta; -rendering any artificial defences, beyond a slight parapet wall, quite -superfluous.</p> - -<p>Numerous vaulted tanks and magazines afforded security to the ammunition -and provisions of the isolated little citadel; but they are now in a -wretched state, as well as the outworks generally; for the fortress was -partially blown up by Ballasteros, (A.D. 1811) upon his abandoning it, -on the approach of the French, to seek a surer protection under the guns -of Gibraltar.</p> - -<p>In exploring the ruined tanks of this old Moorish fortress, chance -directed our footsteps to an unfrequented spot where some smugglers were -in treaty with a revenue <i>guarda</i>, touching the amount of bribe to be -given for his connivance at the entry of sundry mule loads of contraband -goods into the town on the following night.</p> - -<p>We did not pry so curiously into the proceedings of the contracting -parties, as to ascertain the precise sum demanded by this faithful -servant of the crown for the purchase of his acquiescence to the -proposed arrangement, but, from the elevated shoulders, outstretched -arms, and down-stretched mouth, of one of the negociators, it was -evident that the demand was considered unconscionable; and the roguish<a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a> -countenance of the custom-house shark as clearly expressed in reply, -“But do you count for nothing the sacrifice of principle I make?â€</p> - -<p>From the ruined ramparts of Fort Ballasteros (the name by which the -northern retrenched work of the fortress is distinguished) the view -looking south is remarkably fine. The keep of the ancient castle, -enclosed by its comparatively modern outworks, and occupying the extreme -point of the narrow rocky ledge whereon we were perched, stands boldly -out from the adjacent mountains; whilst, deep sunk below, the tortuous -Sogarganta may be traced for miles, wending its way towards the -Almoraima forest. Above this rise the two remarkable headlands of -Gibraltar and Ceuta; the glassy waterline between them marking the -separation of Europe and Africa.</p> - -<p>That Ximena was once a place of importance there can be no doubt, since -it gave the title of King to Abou Melic, son of the Emperor of Fez; and -that it was a Roman station (though the name is lost,) is likewise -sufficiently proved, as well by the walls of the castle, as by various -inscriptions which have been discovered in the vicinity. At the present -day, it is a poor and inconsiderable town, whose inhabitants, amounting -to about 8000, are chiefly employed in smuggling and agriculture.</p> - -<p>On issuing from the town, the road to Gibraltar<a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a> crosses the Sogarganta, -having on its left bank, and directly under the precipitous southern -cliff of the castle rock, the ruins of an immense building, erected some -sixty years back, for the purpose of casting shot for the siege of -Gibraltar!</p> - -<p>The distance from Ximena to the English fortress is 25 miles. The road -was, in times past, practicable for carriages throughout; and even now -is tolerably good, though the bridges are not in a state to drive over. -It is conducted along the right bank of the Sogarganta; at six miles, is -joined by a road that winds down from the little town of Castellar on -the right; and, at eight, enters the Almoraima forest by the “Lion’s -Mouth,†of which mention has already been made. The river, repelled by -the steep brakes of the forest, winds away to the eastward to seek the -Guadiaro and Genil.</p> - -<p>Here I will take a temporary leave of my readers, to seek a night’s -lodging at a cottage in the neighbourhood, which, being frequented by -some friends and myself in the shooting season, we knew could furnish us -with clean beds and a <i>gazpacho</i>.<a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">DEPARTURE FOR CADIZ—ROAD ROUND THE BAY OF -GIBRALTAR—ALGECIRAS—SANDY BAY—GUALMESI—TARIFA—ITS -FOUNDATION—ERROR OF MARIANA IN SUPPOSING IT TO BE CARTEIA—BATTLE -OF EL SALADO—MISTAKE OF LA MARTINIERE CONCERNING IT—ITINERARY OF -ANTONINUS FROM CARTEIA TO GADES VERIFIED—CONTINUATION OF -JOURNEY—VENTAS OF TAVILLA AND RETIN—VEJER—CONIL—SPANISH METHOD -OF EXTRACTING GOOD FROM EVIL—TUNNY FISHERY—BARROSA—FIELD OF -BATTLE—CHICLANA—ROAD TO CADIZ—PUENTE ZUAZO—SAN FERNANDO—TEMPLE -OF HERCULES—CASTLE OF SANTI PETRI—ITS IMPORTANCE TO CADIZ.</p></div> - -<p>H<small>OPING</small> that the taste of my readers, like my own, leads them to prefer -the motion of a horse to that of a ship, the chance of being robbed to -that of being sea-sick, and the savoury smell of an <i>olla</i> to the greasy -odour of a steam engine, I purpose in my next excursion to conduct them -to Cadiz by the rude pathway practised along the rocky shore of the -Straits of Gibraltar, and thence, “<i>inter æstuaria Bætis</i>,†to Seville, -instead of proceeding to those places by the more rapid and now -generally adopted means of fire and water. From the last named “fair -city†we will return homewards by another passage through the mountains -of Ronda.<a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a></p> - -<p>To authorise <i>me</i>—a mere scribbler of notes and journals—to assume the -plural <i>we</i>, that gives a Delphic importance to one’s opinions (but -under whose shelter I gladly seek to avoid the charge of egotism), I -must state that a friend bore me company on this occasion; our two -servants, with well stuffed saddle-bags and <i>alforjas</i>, “bringing up the -rear.â€</p> - -<p>Proceeding along the margin of the bay of Gibraltar, leaving -successively behind us the ruins of Fort St. Philip, which a few years -since gave security to the right flank of the lines drawn across the -Isthmus in front of the British fortress; the crumbling tower of -<i>Cartagena</i>, or <i>Recadillo</i>, which, during the seven centuries of Moslem -sway, served as an <i>atalaya</i>, or beacon, to convey intelligence along -the coast between Algeciras and Malaga; and, lastly, the scattered -fragments of the yet more ancient city of Carteia, we arrive at the -river Guadaranque.</p> - -<p>The stream is so deep as to render a ferry-boat necessary. That in use -is of a most uncouth kind, and so low waisted that “Almanzor,†who was -ever prone to gad amongst the Spanish lady Rosinantes, could not be -deterred from showing his gallantry to some that were collected on the -opposite side of the river, by leaping “clean out†of the boat before it -was half way over. Fortunately, we<a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a> had passed the deepest part of the -stream, so that I escaped with a foot-bath only.</p> - -<p>The road keeps close to the shore for about a mile and a half, when it -reaches the river Palmones, which is crossed by a similarly -ill-contrived ferry. From hence to Algeciras is three miles, the first -along the sea-beach, the remainder by a carriage-road, conducted some -little distance inland to avoid the various rugged promontories which -now begin to indent the coast, and to dash back in angry foam the -hitherto gently received caresses of the flowing tide.</p> - -<p>The total distance from Gibraltar to Algeciras, following the sea-shore, -is nine English miles; but straight across the bay it is barely five.</p> - -<p>Algeciras, supposed to be the Tingentera of the ancients, and by some -the Julia Traducta of the Romans, received its present name from the -Moors—<i>Al chazira</i>, the island. In the days of the Moslem domination, -it became a place of great strength and importance; and when the power -of the Moors of Spain began to wane, was one of the towns ceded to the -Emperor of Fez, to form a kingdom for his son, Abou Melic, in the hope -of presenting a barrier that would check the alarming progress of the -Christian arms. From that time it became a constant object of -contention, and endured<a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a> many sieges. The most memorable was in 1342-4, -during which cannon were first brought into use by its defenders. It, -nevertheless, fell to the irresistible Alfonso XI., after a siege of -twenty months.</p> - -<p>At that period, the town stood on the right bank of the little river -Miel (instead of on the left, as at present), where traces of its walls -are yet to be seen; but its fortifications having shortly afterwards -been razed to the ground by the Moors, the place fell to decay, and the -present town was built so late as in 1760. It is unprotected by walls, -but is sheltered from attack on the sea-side by a rocky little island, -distant 800 yards from the shore. This island is crowned with batteries -of heavy ordnance, and has, on more occasions than one, been found an -“ugly customer†to deal with. The anchorage is to the north of the -island, and directly in front of the town.</p> - -<p>The streets of Algeciras are wide and regularly built, remarkably well -paved, and lined with good houses; but it is a sun-burnt place, without -a tree to shelter, or a drain to purify it. Being the port of -communication between Spain and her <i>presidario</i>, Ceuta, as well as the -military seat of government of the <i>Campo de Gibraltar</i>, it is a place -of some bustle, and carries on a thriving trade, by means of <i>felucas</i> -and other small craft, with the British fortress.<a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a> The population may be -reckoned at 8,000 souls, exclusive of a garrison of from twelve to -fifteen hundred men.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards call the rock of Gibraltar <i>el cuerpo muerto</i>,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> from -its resemblance to a corpse; and, viewed from Algeciras, it certainly -does look something like a human figure laid upon its back, the -northernmost pinnacle forming the head, the swelling ridge between that -and the signal tower, the chest and belly, and the point occupied by -O’Hara’s tower the bend of the knees.</p> - -<p>The direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz crosses the most elevated pass -in the wooded mountains that rise at the back of the town, and, from its -excessive asperity, is called “<i>The Trocha</i>,†the word itself signifying -a <i>bad</i> mountain road. The distance by this route is sixty-two miles; by -Tarifa it is about a league more, and this latter road is not much -better than the other, though over a far lower tract of country.</p> - -<p>On quitting the town, the road, having crossed the river Miel, and -passed over the site of “Old Algeciras,†situated on its right bank, -edges away from the coast, and, in about a mile, reaches a hill, whence -an old tower is seen standing on a rocky promontory; which, jutting some -considerable distance into the sea, forms the northern boundary of a -deep and well<a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a> sheltered bay. The Spanish name for this bight is <i>La -Ensenada de Getares</i>; but by us, on account of the high beach of white -sand that edges it, it is called “Sandy bay.†It strikes me this must be -the <i>Portus albus</i> of Antoninus’s Itinerary, since its distance from -Carteia corresponds exactly with that therein specified, and renders the -rest of the route to Gades <i>intelligible</i>, which, otherwise, it -certainly is not. But more of this hereafter.</p> - -<p>Within two miles of Algeciras the road crosses two mountain torrents, -the latter of which, called <i>El Rio Picaro</i><a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> (I presume from its -occasional <i>treacherous</i> rise), discharges itself into the bay of -Getares. Thenceforth, the track becomes more rugged, and ascends towards -a pass, (<i>El puerto del Cabrito</i>) which connects the <i>Sierra Santa Ana</i> -on the right with a range of hills that, rising to the south, and -closing the view in that direction, shoots its gnarled roots into the -Straits of Gibraltar.</p> - -<p>The views from the pass are very fine—that to the eastward, looking -over the lake-like Mediterranean and towards the snowy sierras of -Granada; the other, down upon the rough features of the Spanish shore, -and towards the yet more rugged mountains of Africa; the still distant -Atlantic stretching away to the left. The former view is shut out -immediately on crossing<a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a> the ridge: but the other, undergoing pleasing -varieties as one proceeds, continues very fine all the way to Tarifa.</p> - -<p>The road is now very bad, being conducted across the numerous rough -ramifications of the mountains on the right hand, midway between their -summits and the sea. At about seven miles from Algeciras it reaches the -secluded valley of Gualmesi, or Guadalmesi, celebrated for the -crystaline clearness of its springs, and the high flavour of its -oranges; and, crossing the stream, whence the romantic dell takes its -name, directs itself towards the sea-shore, continuing along it the rest -of the way to Tarifa; which place is distant twelve miles from -Algeciras.</p> - -<p>The stratification of the rocks along this coast is very remarkable: the -flat shelving ledges that border it running so regularly in parallel -lines, nearly east and west, as to have all the appearance of artificial -moles for sheltering vessels. It is on the contrary, however, an -extremely dangerous shore to approach.</p> - -<p>The old Moorish battlements of Tarifa abut against the rocky cliff that -bounds the coast; stretching thence to the westward, along, but about 50 -yards from, the sea. It is not necessary, therefore, to enter the -fortress; indeed, one makes a considerable détour in doing so; but -curiosity will naturally lead all Englishmen<a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a>—who have the -opportunity—to visit the walls so gallantly defended by a handful of -their countrymen during the late war; and those who cannot do so may not -object to read a somewhat minute description of them.</p> - -<p>The town closes the mouth of a valley, bound by two long but slightly -marked moles, protruded from a mountain range some miles distant to the -north; the easternmost of which terminates abruptly along the sea-shore. -The walls extend partly up both these hills; but not far enough to save -the town from being looked into, and completely commanded, within a very -short distance. Their general lines form a quadrangular figure, about -600 yards square; but a kind of horn work projects from the N.E. angle, -furnishing the only good flanking fire that the fortress can boast of -along its north front. Every where else the walls, which are only four -feet and a half thick, are flanked by square towers, themselves hardly -solid enough to bear the <i>weight</i> of artillery, much less its blows.</p> - -<p>At the S.W. angle, but within the enceinte of the fortress, and looking -seawards, there is a small castle, or citadel, the <i>alcazar</i> of its -Moorish governors; and immediately under its machicoulated battlements -is one of the three gateways of the town. The two others are towards the -centre of its western and northern fronts.<a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a></p> - -<p>In the attack of 1811, the French made their approaches against the -north front of the town, and effected a breach towards its centre, in -the very lowest part of the bed of the valley; thus most completely -“taking the bull by the horns;†(and Tarifa bulls are not to be trifled -with—as every Spanish <i>picador</i> knows,) since the approach to it was -swept by the fire of the projecting <i>horn</i>-work I have before mentioned.</p> - -<p>When the breach was repaired, a marble tablet was inserted in the wall, -bearing a modest inscription in Latin, which states that “this part of -the wall, destroyed by the besieging French, was re-built by the British -defenders in November, 1813.â€</p> - -<p>When the French again attacked the fortress, in 1823, profiting by past -experience, they established their breaching batteries in a large -convent, distant about 200 yards from the walls on the west front of the -town; and, favouring their assault by a feigned attack on the gate in -its south wall, they carried the place with scarcely any loss.</p> - -<p>The streets of Tarifa are narrow, dark, and crooked; and, excepting that -they are clean, are in every respect Moorish. The inhabitants are rude -in speech and manners, and amount to about 8000.</p> - -<p>From the S.E. salient angle of the town, a sandy isthmus juts about a -thousand yards into<a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a> the sea, and is connected by a narrow artificial -causeway with a rocky peninsula, or island, as it is more generally -termed, that stretches yet 700 or 800 yards further into the Straits of -Gibraltar. This is the most southerly point of Europe, being in latitude -30° 0’ 56", which is nearly six miles to the south of Europa Point.</p> - -<p>The island is of a circular form, and towards the sea is merely defended -by three open batteries, armed <i>en barbette</i>; but to the land side, it -presents a bastioned front, that sweeps the causeway with a most -formidable fire. A lighthouse stands at the extreme point of the island, -which also contains a casemated barrack for troops, and some remarkable -old tanks, perhaps of a date much prior to the arrival of the Saracens.</p> - -<p>The foundation of the town of Tarifa is usually ascribed to Tarik Aben -Zaide, the first Mohammedan invader of Spain; who probably, previous to -crossing the Straits, had marked the island as offering a favourable -landing-place, as well as a secure depôt for his stores, and a safe -refuge in the event of a repulse. Mariana, however, imagined, that -Tartessus, or Carteia—which he considered the same place—stood upon -this spot; and, under this persuasion, he speaks of the admiral of the -Pompeian faction retiring there, after his action with Cæsar’s fleet, -and drawing a chain across the mouth of the port to<a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a> protect his -vessels; a circumstance which alone proves that Carteia was not Tarifa; -since it must be evident to any one who has examined the coast -attentively, that no port could possibly have existed there, which could -have afforded shelter to a large fleet, and been closed by drawing a -chain across its mouth.</p> - -<p>Others, again, suppose Tarifa to occupy the site of Mellaria. But I -rather incline to the opinion of those who consider it doubtful whether -<i>any</i> Roman town stood upon the spot; an opinion for which I think I -shall hereafter be able to assign sufficient reason.</p> - -<p>As Tarifa was the field wherein the Mohammedan invaders of Spain -obtained their first success, so, six centuries after, did it become the -scene of one of their most humiliating defeats; the battle of the -<i>Salado</i>, gained A.D. 1340, by Alphonso XI., of Castile, having -inflicted a blow upon them, from the effects of which they never -recovered. Four crowned heads were engaged in that sanguinary -conflict—the King of Portugal, as the ally of the Castillian hero; -Jusuf, King of Granada; and Abu Jacoob, Emperor of Morocco. The -last-named, according to the Spanish historians, had crossed over from -Africa, with an army of nearly half a million of men, to avenge the -death of his son, Abou Melic; killed the preceding year at the battle of -Arcos.<a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a></p> - -<p>The little river, which gave its name to that important battle gained by -the Christian army on its banks, winds through a plain to the westward -of Tarifa, crossing the road to Cadiz, at about two miles from the -town.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> The valley is about three miles across, and extends a -considerable distance inland. It is watered by several mountain streams -that fall into the Salado. That rivulet is the last which is met with, -and is crossed by a long wooden bridge on five stone piers.</p> - -<p>The term <i>Salado</i> is of very common occurrence amongst the names of the -rivers of the south of Spain; though in most cases it is used rather as -a term signifying a <i>water-course</i>, than as the name of the rivulet: -thus <i>El Salado de Moron</i> is a stream issuing from the mountains in the -vicinity of the town of Moron; <i>El Salado de Porcuna</i> is a torrent that -washes the walls of Porcuna; and so with the rest. As, however, the word -in Spanish signifies salt, (used adjectively) it has led to many -mistakes, and occasioned much perplexity in determining the course of -the river <i>Salsus</i>, mentioned so frequently by Hirtius; but to which, in -point of fact, the word <i>Salado</i> has no reference whatever, being -applied to numerous streams that are perfectly free from salt.<a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a></p> - -<p>On the other hand, it might naturally be supposed that the word <i>Salido</i> -(the past participle of the verb <i>Salir</i>, to issue) would have been used -if intended to signify a source or stream issuing from the mountains.</p> - -<p>It seems to me, therefore, that the word <i>Salado</i> must be a derivation -from the Arabic <i>SÄl</i>, a water-course in a valley; which, differing -so little in sound from <i>Salido</i>, continued to be used after the -expulsion of the Moors; until at length, its derivation being lost, it -came to be considered as signifying what the word actually means in -Spanish, viz. impregnated with salt.</p> - -<p>At the western extremity of the plain, watered by the <i>Salado de -Tarifa</i>, a barren Sierra terminates precipitously along the coast, -leaving but a narrow space between its foot and the sea, for the passage -of the road to Cadiz. Under shelter of the eastern side of this Sierra, -standing in the plain, but closing the little Thermopylæ, I think we may -place the Roman town of MellarÃa,<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> eighteen miles from Carteia, and -six from Belone Claudia, according to the Itinerary of Antoninus; and -mentioned by Strabo as a place famous for curing fish.</p> - -<p>Tarifa, which, as I have said before, is supposed by some authors to be -on the site of MellarÃa, is in the first place rather too near Calpe<a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a> -Carteia to accord with that supposition; and in the next, it is far too -distant from Belon; the site of which is well established by numerous -ruins visible to this day, at a <i>despoblado</i>,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> called Bolonia.</p> - -<p>It may be objected, on the other hand, that the position which I suppose -MellarÃa to have occupied, is as much too far removed from Carteia, as -Tarifa is too near it: and following the present road, it certainly is -so. But there is no reason to take for granted that the ancient military -way followed this line; on the contrary, as the Romans rather preferred -straight to circuitous roads, we may suppose that, as soon as the nature -of the country admitted of it, they carried their road away from the -coast, to avoid the promontory running into the sea at Tarifa. Now, an -opportunity for them to do this presented itself on arriving at the -valley of Gualmesi, from whence a road might very well have been carried -direct to the spot that I assign for the position of MellarÃa; which -road, by saving two miles of the circuitous route by Tarifa, would fix -MellarÃa at the prescribed distance from Carteia, and also bring it -(very nearly) within the number of miles from Belon, specified in the -Roman Itinerary, viz. six; whereas, if MellarÃa stood where Tarifa now -does, the distance would be nearly <i>ten</i>.<a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a></p> - -<p>The city of Belon appears to have slipped bodily from the side of the -mountain on which it was built (probably the result of an earthquake), -as its ruins may be distinctly seen when the tide is out and the water -calm, stretching some distance into the Atlantic. Vestiges of an -aqueduct may also be traced for nearly a league along the coast, by -means of which the town was supplied with water from a spring that rises -near Cape Palomo, the southernmost point of the same Sierra under which -Belon was situated.</p> - -<p>In following out the Itinerary of Antoninus—according to which the -total distance from Calpe to Gades is made seventy-six miles<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>—the -next place mentioned after Belon Claudia is Besippone, distant twelve -miles. This place, it appears to me, must have stood on the coast a -little way beyond the river Barbate; and not at Vejer, (which is several -miles inland) as some have supposed; for the distance from the ruins of -Bolonia to that town far exceeds that specified in the Itinerary.</p> - -<p>Vejer (or Beger, as it is indifferently written) may probably be where a -Roman town called Besaro stood, of which Besippo was the port; the -latter only having been noticed in the Itinerary from it being situated -on the direct military route from Carteia to Gades; the<a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a> former by -Pliny,<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> as being a place of importance within the <i>Conventus -Gaditani</i>.</p> - -<p>From Besippone to Mergablo—the next station of the Itinerary—is six -miles; and at that distance from the spot where I suppose the first of -those places to have stood, there is a very ancient tower on the sea -side, (to the westward of Cape Trafalgar) from which an old, apparently -Roman, paved road, now serving no purpose whatever, leads for several -miles into the country. From this tower to Cadiz—crossing the Santi -Petri river <i>at its mouth</i>—the distance exceeds but little twenty-four -miles; the number given in the Itinerary.</p> - -<p>The distances I have thus laid down agree pretty well throughout with -those marked on the Roman military way; which, it may be supposed, were -not <i>very exactly</i> measured, since the fractions of miles have in every -case been omitted. The only objection which can be urged to my -measurements is, that they make the Roman miles too long. Having, -however, taken the Olympic stadium (in this instance) as my standard, of -which there are but 600 to a degree of the Meridian, or seventy-five -Roman miles; and as my measurements, even with it, are still rather -<i>short</i>, the reply is very simple,<a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a> viz. that the adoption of any -<i>smaller</i> scale would but <i>increase the error</i>.</p> - -<p>From the spot where I suppose MellarÃa to have stood—which is marked by -a little chapel standing on a detached pinnacle of the <i>Sierra de -Enmedio</i>, overhanging the sea—the distance to the Rio Baqueros is two -miles; the road keeping along a flat and narrow strip of land, between -the foot of the mountain and the sea.</p> - -<p>The coast now trends to the south west, a high wooded mountain, -distinguished by the name of the Sierra de <i>San Mateo</i>, stretching some -way into the sea, and forming the steep sandy cape of <i>Paloma</i>, a league -on the western side of which are the ruins of Belon.</p> - -<p>The road to Cadiz, however, leaves the sea-shore to seek a more level -country, and, inclining slightly to the north, keeping up the <i>Val de -Baqueros</i> for five miles, reaches a pass between the mountains of San -Mateo and Enmedio.</p> - -<p>The valley is very wild and beautiful. Laurustinus, arbutus, oleander, -and rhododendron are scattered profusely over the bed of the torrent -that rushes down it; and the bounding mountains are richly clothed with -forest trees.</p> - -<p>From the pass an extensive view is obtained of the wide plain of Vejer, -and <i>laguna de la Janda</i> in its centre. Descending for two miles and a -half,—the double-peaked Sierra <i>de la Plata</i> being now on the left -hand, and that of <i>Fachenas</i>,<a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a> studded with water-mills, on the -right—the road reaches the eastern extremity of the above-named plain, -where the direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz falls in, and that of -Medina Sidonia branches off to the right. The Cadiz route here inclines -again to the westward, and, in three miles, reaches the <i>Venta de -Tavilla</i>.</p> - -<p>From hence two roads present themselves for continuing the journey; one -proceeding along the edge of the plain; the other keeping to the left, -and making a slight détour by the <i>Sierra de Retin</i>; and when the plain -is flooded, it is necessary to take this latter route. Let those who -find themselves in this predicament avoid making the solitary hovel, -called the <i>Venta de Retin</i>, their resting-place for the night, as I was -once obliged to do; for, unless they are partial to a guard bed, and to -go to it supperless, they will not meet with accommodation and -entertainment to their liking.</p> - -<p>We will return, however, to the <i>Venta de Tabilla</i>, which is a fraction -of a degree better than that of Retin. From thence the distance to Vejer -is fourteen miles. The first two pass over a gently swelling country, -planted with corn; the next six along the low wooded hills bordering the -<i>laguna de la Janda</i>; the remainder over a hilly, and partially wooded -tract, whence the sea is again visible at some miles distance on the -left.<a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a></p> - -<p>In winter the greater part of the plain of Vejer is covered with water, -there being no outlet for the <i>Laguna</i>; which, besides being the -reservoir for all the rain that falls on the surrounding hills, is fed -by several considerable streams.</p> - -<p>A project to drain the lake was entertained some years ago; but, like -all other Spanish projects, it failed, after an abortive trial. In its -present state, therefore, the whole surface of the plain is available -only for pasture; and numerous herds are subsisted on it. The gentle -slopes bounding it, being secure from inundation, are planted with corn.</p> - -<p>Vejer is situated on the northern extremity of a bare mountain ridge, -that stretches inland from the coast about five miles, and terminates in -a stupendous precipice along the right bank of the river Barbate. -Towards the sea, however, it slopes more gradually, forming the forked -headland, for ever celebrated in history, called Cape Trafalgar.</p> - -<p>When arrived within half a mile of the lofty cliff whereon the town -stands, the road enters a narrow gorge, by which the Barbate escapes to -the ocean; this part of its course offering a remarkable contrast to the -rest, which is through an extensive flat.</p> - -<p>A stone bridge of three curiously constructed arches, said to be Roman, -gives a passage over<a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a> the stream; and a venta is situated on the right -bank, immediately under the town; the houses of which may be seen edging -the precipice, at a height of five or six hundred feet above the river.</p> - -<p>The road to Cadiz, and consequently all others,—it being the most -southerly,—avoids the ascent to Vejer, which is very steep, and so -circuitous as to occupy fully half an hour. But the place is well worth -a visit, if only for the sake of the view from the church steeple, which -is very extensive and beautiful; and taken altogether, it is a much -better town than could be expected, considering its truly out-of-the-way -situation. That it was a Roman station, its position alone sufficiently -proves; but whether it be the Besaro, or Belippo, or even Besippo of -Pliny, seems doubtful.</p> - -<p>It occupies a tolerably level space; though bounded on three sides by -precipices, and is consequently still a very defensible post, -notwithstanding its walls are all destroyed. The streets are narrow, but -clean and well paved; and the place contains many good houses, and -several large convents. The inns, however, are such wretched places, -that on one occasion, when I passed a night there, I had to seek a -resting-place in a private house.</p> - -<p>The Barbate is navigable for large barges up to the bridge; but the -difficulty of access to the<a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a> town prevents its carrying on much trade. -The population amounts to about 6,000 souls.</p> - -<p>There is a delightful walk down a wooded ravine on the western side of -the town, by which the road to Cadiz and the valley of the Barbate may -be regained quicker than by retracing our footsteps to the Venta. Of -this latter I feel bound to say—after much experience—that there is -not a better halting-place between Cadiz and Gibraltar; albeit, many -stories are told of robberies committed even within its very walls. Let -the traveller take care, therefore, to show his pistols to mine host, -and to lock his bedroom door.</p> - -<p>We resumed our journey with the dawn. The road keeps for nearly a mile -along the narrow, flat strip between the bank of the river, and the high -cliff whereon the town is perched. The gorge then terminates, and an -open country permits the roads to the different neighbouring places to -branch off in their respective directions. From hence to Medina Sidonia -is thirteen miles; to Alcalà de los Gazules, twenty; and to -Chiclana—whither we were bound—fifteen;—but, leaving these three -roads on the right, we proceeded by a rather more circuitous route to -the last mentioned place, by Conil and Barrosa.</p> - -<p>The distance from Vejer to Conil is nine miles; the country undulated -and uninteresting.<a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a> Conil is a large fishing town, containing a swarming -population of 8,000 souls. The smell of the houses where the tunny fish -(here taken in great abundance) are cut up and cured, extends inland for -several miles; but the inhabitants consider it very wholesome; and to my -animadversive remarks on the filth and effluvium of the place itself, -answer was made, “<i>no hay epidemia aqui</i>;â€<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>—quite a sufficient -excuse, according to their ideas, for submitting to live the life of -hogs.</p> - -<p>We arrived just as the fishermen had enclosed a shoal of Tunny with -their nets; so, putting up our horses, we waited to see the result of -their labours. The whole process is very interesting. The Tunny can be -discovered when at a very considerable distance from the land; as they -arrive in immense shoals, and cause a ripple on the surface of the -water, like that occasioned by a light puff of wind on a calm day. Men -are, therefore, stationed in the different watch towers along the coast, -to look out for them, and, immediately on perceiving a shoal, they make -signals to the fishermen, indicating the direction, distance, &c. Boats -are forthwith put to sea, and the fish are surrounded with a net of -immense size, but very fine texture, which is gradually hauled towards -the shore.<a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a></p> - -<p>The tunny, coming in contact with this net, become alarmed, and make off -from it in the only direction left open to them. The boats follow, and -draw the net in, until the space in which the fish are confined is -sufficiently small to allow a second net, of great strength, to -circumscribe the first; which is then withdrawn. The tunny, although -very powerful, (being nearly the size and very much the shape of a -porpoise) have thus far been very quiet, seeking only to escape under -the net; and have hardly been perceptible to the spectators on the -beach. But, on drawing in the new net, and getting into shallow water, -their danger gives them the courage of despair, and furious are their -struggles to escape from their hempen prison.</p> - -<p>The scene now becomes very animated. When the draught is heavy—as it -was in this instance—and there is a possibility of the net being -injured, and of the fish escaping if it be drawn at once to land, the -fishermen arm themselves with harpoons, or stakes, having iron hooks at -the end, and rush into the sea whilst the net is yet a considerable -distance from the shore, surrounding it, and shouting with all their -might to frighten the fish into shallow water, when they become -comparatively powerless.</p> - -<p>In completing the investment of their prey, some of the fishermen are -obliged even to swim to the outer extremity of the net, where, holding<a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a> -on by the floats with one hand, they strike, with singular dexterity, -such fish as approach the edge, in the hope of effecting their escape, -with a short harpoon held in the other. The men in the boats, at the -same time, keep up a continual splashing with their oars, to deter the -tunny from attempting to leap over the hempen enclosure; which, -nevertheless, many succeed in doing, amidst volleys of “<i>Carajos!</i>â€</p> - -<p>The fish are thus killed in the water, and then drawn in triumph on -shore. They are allowed to bleed very freely; and the entrails, roes, -livers, and eyes, are immediately cut out, being perquisites of -different authorities.</p> - -<p>The flesh is salted, and exported in great quantities to Catalonia, -Valencia, and the northern provinces of the kingdom. A small quantity of -oil is extracted from the bones.</p> - -<p>Some years since, the Duke of Medina Sidonia enjoyed the monopoly of the -tunny fishery on this part of the coast, which was calculated to have -given him a yearly profit of £4000 sterling. But, at the time of my -visit, he had been deprived of this privilege, much to the regret of the -inhabitants of Conil; for the nets and salting-houses, being the -property of the duke, had to be hired, and as there were no capitalists -in the place able to embark in so expensive a speculation as the -purchase of others, the “company†that engaged in the fishery was, -necessarily, composed of strangers to<a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a> Conil, whose only object was to -obtain the greatest possible profit during the short period for which -they held the duke’s property on lease. They, consequently, drove the -hardest bargain they could with the poor inhabitants, who, accustomed -all their lives to this employment, could not turn their hands to any -other, and were forced to submit.</p> - -<p>I do not mean to defend monopolies in general, but what I have stated -shows, that in the present state of Spain they are almost unavoidable -evils. The inhabitants of Conil, at all events, complained most bitterly -of the change.</p> - -<p>The fishery lasts from March to July, and the season of which I write -(then drawing to a close,) was considered a very successful one, 1300 -tunny having been taken at Conil, and 1600 at Barrosa. Each fish is -worth ten dollars, or two pounds sterling. The falling off has, however, -been most extraordinary, as in former days we read of 70,000 fish having -been taken annually.</p> - -<p>From Conil the road keeps along the coast for twelve miles, to Barrosa, -a spot occupying a distinguished place in the pages of history, but -marked only by an old tower on the coast, and a small building, called a -<i>vigia</i>, or watch-house, situated on a knoll that rises slightly above -the general level of the country. This was the great object of -contention on the celebrated 5th March, 1811.<a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a></p> - -<p>Never, perhaps, were British soldiers placed under greater disadvantages -than on this glorious day, through the incapacity or pusillanimity, or -both, of the Spanish general who commanded in chief. And though far more -important victories have been gained by them, yet the cool bearing and -determined courage that shone forth so conspicuously on this occasion, -by completely removing the erroneous impression under which their -opponents laboured, as to the fitness of Englishmen for soldiers, -produced, perhaps, better effects than might have attended a victory -gained on a larger scale, under <i>more favourable</i> circumstances.</p> - -<p>I have met with Spaniards who absolutely shed tears when speaking of -this battle, in which they considered our troops had been so shamefully -abandoned by their countrymen, or rather by the general who led them. -Nor is it surprising that the English character should stand so high as -it does in this part of the Peninsula, when, within the short space of a -day’s ride, three such names as Tarifa, Trafalgar, and Barrosa, are -successively brought to recollection.</p> - -<p>The walls of the watch-house of Barrosa still bear the marks of mortal -strife, and the hill on which it stands is even yet strewed with the -bleached bones of the horses which fell there; but so slight is the -command the knoll possesses—indeed in so unimportant, pinched-up a -corner<a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a> of the coast is it situated—that those who are not aware of the -unaccountable events which led to the battle, may well be surprised at -its having been chosen as a military position.</p> - -<p>Striking into the pine-forest, which bounds the field of battle to the -west, we arrived in about half an hour at the bridge and mill of -Almanza, and proceeding onwards, in four miles reached Chiclana; first -winding round the base of a conical knoll, surmounted by a chapel -dedicated to <i>Santa Ana</i>.</p> - -<p>Chiclana is the Highgate of the good citizens of Cadiz, and contains -many “genteel family residences,†adapted for summer visiters; but the -place is disgracefully dirty, so that little benefit can be expected -from <i>change of air</i>. The gardens in its vicinage offer agreeable -promenades, however; and there is a fine view from the chapel of <i>Santa -Ana</i>, whence may be seen</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Fair Cadiz, rising o’er the dark blue sea.â€<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>Chiclana contains a population of about 6000 souls, and boasts of -possessing a tolerably good <i>posada</i>, whereat <i>calesas</i>, and other -vehicles, may be hired to proceed to the neighbouring towns; the roads -to all, even the direct one to Vejer, being open to wheel carriages.</p> - -<p>A rivulet bathes the north side of the town, dividing it from a large -suburb, and flowing on to the Santi Petri river. The Cadiz road,<a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a> -crossing this stream by a long wooden bridge, proceeds for three miles -and a half (in company with the routes to <i>Puerto Santa Maria</i>, <i>Puerto -Real</i>, and <i>Xeres</i>,)<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> along a raised causeway, which keeps it above -the saltpans and marshes that render the <i>Isla de Leon</i> so difficult of -approach. Arrived at a wide stream, a ferry-boat affords the means of -passage; and, on gaining the southern bank, the great road from Cadiz to -Madrid (passing through the towns above mentioned) presents itself.</p> - -<p>Taking the direction of Cadiz, our passports were immediately demanded -at the entrance of a fortified post, called the <i>Portazgo</i>,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> the -first advanced redoubt of the multiplied defences of the <i>Isla de Leon</i>. -From thence the road is conducted, for nearly a mile, through bogs and -saltpans, as before, to the <i>Puente Zuazo</i>, a bridge over the river -<i>Santi Petri</i>, or <i>San Pedro</i>. This, by the way, is rather an arm of the -sea than a river, since it communicates between the bay of Cadiz and the -ocean, and forms the <i>Isla</i> (island) <i>de Leon</i>, which otherwise would be -an isthmus. The channel is very wide, deep, and muddy; the bridge has -five arches, and was built by a Doctor <i>Juan Sanchez de Zuazo</i> (whence -its name), on the foundation of one<a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a> that existed in the days of the -Romans, and is supposed to have served as an aqueduct to supply Cadiz -with water from the <i>Sierra de Xeres</i>. It is protected by a double tête -de pont; and has one arch cut, and its parapets pierced with embrasures, -to enable artillery to fire down the stream.</p> - -<p>Soon after reaching the right bank of the San Pedro, the long straggling -town of the Isla, or, more properly, <i>San Fernando</i>, commences. The main -street is upwards of a mile in length, wide, and rather handsome. The -population of this place is estimated at 30,000 souls; but it varies -considerably, according to the date of the last visitation of yellow -fever.</p> - -<p>At the southern extremity of the city a low range of hills begins, which -stretches for a mile and a half towards the sea. The causeway to Cadiz, -however, is directed straight upon the <i>Torre Gorda</i>, standing upon the -shore more to the westward, and three miles distant from the town of -<i>San Fernando</i>.</p> - -<p>Here commences the narrow sandy isthmus that connects the point of land -on which Cadiz is built with the <i>Isla</i>. It is five miles long, and in -some places so narrow, that the waves of the Atlantic on one side, and -those of the bay of Cadiz on the other, reach the walls of the causeway. -About half way between the <i>Torre Gorda</i> and Cadiz, the isthmus is cut -across by a fort<a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a> called the <i>Cortadura</i>, beyond which it becomes much -wider.</p> - -<p>At five miles to the eastward of the <i>Torre Gorda</i>, or Tower of -Hercules, as it is also called, is the mouth of the Santi Petri river, -and four miles only beyond it is the <i>Vigia de Barrosa</i>; so that the -distance from thence to Cadiz is almost doubled by making the détour by -Chiclana. It is more than probable, therefore, that the Romans had a -military post, commanding a <i>flying bridge</i>, at the mouth of the river; -for, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, the coast-road from <i>Calpe</i> to -<i>Gades</i> was not directed from <i>Mergablo</i> “<i>ad pontem</i>,†as in the route -laid down from <i>Gades</i> to <i>Hispalis</i> (Seville), but “<i>ad -Herculem</i>;"—that is, it may be presumed, to the temple of Hercules,<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> -situated, according to common tradition, on a part of the coast near the -mouth of the Santi Petri river, over which the waves of the Atlantic now -roll unobstructed; and the supposed site of which temple is the same -distance from Cadiz as the bridge of Zuazo, thereby agreeing with the -Roman Itineraries.</p> - -<p>At the distance of 1200 yards from the river’s mouth a rocky islet rises -from the sea, bearing on its scarped sides the inapproachable little -castle of <i>Santi Petri</i>, the bleached walls of which are said to have -been built from the ruins of the famed temple of Hercules.<a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a></p> - -<p>Contemptible as this isolated fortress appears to be, as well from its -size as from any thing that art has done for it, the fate of Cadiz, -nevertheless, depends in a great measure upon its preservation; since, -from the command the castle possesses of the entrance of the river, an -enemy, who may gain possession of it, is enabled to force the passage of -the stream under its protecting fire, and take in reverse all the -defenses of the <i>Isla de Leon</i>. Cadiz would thereby be reduced to its -own resources; and strong as Cadiz is, yet, like all fortresses defended -only by art, it must eventually fall.</p> - -<p>The surrender of the castle of <i>Santi Petri</i> to the French, in the siege -of 1823, occasioned the immediate fall of Cadiz, its defenders seeing -that further resistance would be unavailing; whereas, the capture of the -<i>Trocadero</i>, about which so much was thought, did little towards the -reduction of the place. Indeed, the <i>Trocadero</i> was in possession of the -enemy during the whole period of the former siege, 1810-12.<a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">CADIZ—ITS FOUNDATION—VARIOUS NAMES—PAST PROSPERITY—MADE A FREE -PORT IN THE HOPE OF RUINING THE TRADE OF GIBRALTAR—UNJUST -RESTRICTIONS ON THE COMMERCE OF THE BRITISH FORTRESS—DESCRIPTION -OF CADIZ—ITS VAUNTED AGREMENS—SOCIETY—MONOTONOUS -LIFE—CATHEDRAL—ADMIRABLY BUILT SEA WALL—NAVAL ARSENAL OF LA -CARRACA—ROAD TO XERES—PUERTO REAL—PUERTO DE SANTA -MARIA—XERES—ITS FILTH—WINE STORES—METHOD OF PREPARING -WINE—DOUBTS OF THE ANCIENT AND DERIVATION OF THE PRESENT NAME OF -XERES—CARTHUSIAN CONVENT—GUADALETE—BATTLE OF XERES.</p></div> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> date of the foundation of Cadiz is lost in the impenetrable chaos of -heathen mythology. One of the numerous conquerors, distinguished by the -general name of Hercules, who, in early ages, carried their victorious -arms to the remotest extremities of Europe, appears to have erected a -temple at the westernmost point of the rocky ledge on which Cadiz now -stands; and round this temple, doubtless, a town gradually sprung up. -But the place came only to be known and distinguished by the name -<i>Gadira</i>,<a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a> when the commercial enterprise of the PhÅ“nicians led them -to make a settlement on this defensible island; and the foundation of -the temple dedicated to Hercules, which Strabo describes as situated at -the eastern extremity of the same island, “where it is separated from -the continent by a strait only about a stadium in width,†is ascribed to -Pygmalion, nearly nine centuries before the Christian era.</p> - -<p>Gadira, or Gades, to which the name now became corrupted, was the first -town of Spain forcibly occupied by the Carthagenians, who, throwing off -the mask of friendship, took possession of it about the year B.C. 240. -It was the last place that afforded them a refuge in the war which -shortly followed with the Romans, into whose hands it fell, B.C. 203. -From the Romans it afterwards received the name of Augusta Julia, -probably from its adherence to the cause of Cæsar, who restored to the -temple of Hercules the treasures of which it had been plundered during -the civil wars that had previously distracted the country. But its old -name, altered apparently to its present orthography by the Moors, seems -always to have prevailed.</p> - -<p>Under the Moslems, Cadiz does not appear to have enjoyed any very great -consideration; and it was wrested from them without difficulty by San -Fernando, soon after the capture of Seville.<a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a></p> - -<p>On the discovery of America, Cadiz became, next to Seville (which was -endowed with peculiar privileges), the richest city of Spain. Its -imports at that time amounted annually to eleven millions sterling. But -since the loss of the American colonies, its prosperity has been rapidly -declining; and some years back, when the intestine troubles of Spain -rendered it impossible for her to afford protection to her commerce, the -trade of Cadiz may be said to have ceased.</p> - -<p>A <i>fillip</i> was, however, given to its commerce, for it would be absurd -to call it an attempt to restore it—about nine years since, by making -it a free port. But this apparently liberal act, not having been -accompanied by any reduction of the duties imposed on foreign produce -introduced for consumption into the country, was merely a disgraceful -contrivance on the part of the king and his ministers to obtain money.</p> - -<p>On the promulgation of the edict constituting Cadiz a free port, it -became at once an entrepôt for the produce of all nations; the goods -brought to it being subjected only to a trifling charge for landing, &c. -The proceeds of this pitiful tax went to the coffers of the -municipality, which had paid the king handsomely for the “act of grace†-bestowed upon the city; and no source of revenue was opened to the -public treasury by the grant of this special privilege,<a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a> since the goods -landed at Cadiz could only be carried into the interior of the country -on payment of duties that amounted to an absolute prohibition of them, -and they were, consequently, introduced surreptitiously by bribing the -city authorities and custom-house officers; who, in their turn, paid -large sums for their respective situations to the ministers of the -crown!</p> - -<p>Such is the way in which the commercial concerns of Spain are conducted. -The whole affair was, in fact, a temporary expedient to raise money by -selling Cadiz permission to smuggle. At the same time, the Spanish -government—by offering foreign merchants a mart which, at first sight, -seemed more conveniently situated for disposing of their goods than -Gibraltar—hoped to give a death-blow to the commerce of the British -fortress, which it had found to thrive, in spite of all the iniquitous -restrictions imposed upon it; such, for instance, as the exaction of -duties on goods shipped from thence, double in amount to those levied on -the <i>same articles</i>, if brought from the ports of France and Italy; the -depriving even Spanish vessels, if coming from, or touching at, -Gibraltar, of all advantages in regard to the rate of duty otherwise -granted to the national flag;<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> and various<a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a> other abuses, to which it -is astonishing the British government has so long quietly submitted.</p> - -<p>The scheme, however, though successful for a time against Gibraltar, did -no permanent good to Cadiz; and the trade of the place has relapsed into -its former sickly state.</p> - -<p>“Cadiz! sweet Cadiz,†has been so extolled by modern authors, that I am -almost afraid to say what I think of it. It strikes me, that the very -favourable impression it usually makes on my countrymen is owing to its -being, in most cases, the first place they see after leaving England; -or, perchance, the first place they have seen out of England; to whose -gloomy brick-built towns its bright houses and battlements offer as -agreeable a contrast, as the picturesque costume of its inhabitants does -to the ill-cut garments of the natives of our island.</p> - -<p>Under any circumstances, however, the first impression made by Cadiz is -favourable, unless you enter by the fish-market. The streets are -straight, tolerably well lighted, and remarkably well paved, many of -them having even the convenience of a <i>trottoir</i>. There is one handsome -square, and the houses, generally, are lofty, and those which are -inhabited are clean. But many are falling rapidly to decay, from the -diminished population and prosperity of the place.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, the city does not contain one handsome public -building; and, if one<a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a> leaves the principal thoroughfares, its boasted -cleanliness and “sweetness†turn out to be mere poetical delusions. In -fact, the vaunted <i>agrémens</i> of the city to me were undiscoverable. -There is but one road to ride upon, one promenade to walk upon, one -sheet of water to boat upon. The Alameda, on which much hyperbolical -praise has been bestowed, is a dusty gravel walk, extending about half a -mile along the ramparts. It is lined—not shaded—with stunted trees, -and commands a fine view of the marsh-environed bay when the tide is in, -and a disagreeable effluvium from it when the tide is out; and, I must -say, that I never could perceive any more “harmony and fascination†in -the movements of the pavonizing <i>gaditanas</i> who frequent it, than in -those of the fair promenaders of other Spanish towns. The <i>Plaza de San -Antonio</i> is a square, situated in the heart of the city, which, paved -with large flag-stones, and lighted with lamps, may be considered a kind -of treadmill, that fashion has condemned her votaries to take an hour’s -exercise in after the fatigues of the day.</p> - -<p>The society of Cadiz is now but second rate; for it is no longer -inhabited as in bygone days, when the nobility from all parts of the -kingdom sought shelter behind its walls. At the Tertulias of the first -circle, gaming is the principal pastime, and I have been given to -understand<a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a> that the play is very high. The public amusements are few. -There is a tolerable theatre, where Italian Operas are sometimes -performed; but, for the great national diversion, the bull-fight, the -inhabitants have to cross the bay to Puerto Santa Maria.</p> - -<p>In fine, for one whose time is not fully occupied by business, I know of -few <i>less</i> agreeable places of residence than Cadiz. The transient -visiter, who prolongs his stay beyond two days, will find time hang very -heavy on his hands; for having, in that short space, seen all the place -contains, he will be driven to wile away the tedious hours after the -usual manner of its inhabitants, viz., by devoting the morning to the -<i>cafés</i> and billiard-rooms, the afternoon to the <i>siesta</i>, evening to -the Alameda, dusk to the Plaza San Antonio and its <i>Neverias</i>,<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> and -night to the Tertulias—for such is the life of a Spanish <i>man of -pleasure</i>!</p> - -<p>The hospitable mansion of the British Consul General affords those who -have the good fortune to possess his acquaintance a happy relief from -this monotonous and wearisome life; and, besides meeting there the best -society the place affords, the lovers of the fine arts will derive much -gratification from the inspection of Mr. Brackenbury’s picture gallery, -which contains many choice paintings of Murillo, and the best Spanish -Masters.<a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a></p> - -<p>What few other good paintings Cadiz possesses are scattered amongst -private houses. The churches contain none of any merit. In one of the -Franciscan convents, however, is to be seen a painting that excites much -interest, as being the last which occupied the pencil of Murillo, though -it was not finished by him. Our conductor told me that a most -distinguished English nobleman had offered 500 guineas for it, but the -pious monks refused to sell it to a heretic!—Perhaps, His Grace did not -know before on what <i>conscientious</i> grounds his liberal offer had been -declined.</p> - -<p>The old Cathedral is not worth visiting. The new one, as it is called, -was commenced in the days of the city’s prosperity; but the source from -whence the funds for building it were raised, failed ere it was half -finished; and there it stands, a perfect emblem of Spain herself!—a -pile of the most valuable materials, planned on a scale of excessive -magnificence, but put together without the slightest taste, and falling -to decay for want of revenue!<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a></p> - -<p>The walls of the city—excepting those of its land front, which are -remarkably well constructed, and kept in tolerable order—are in a -deplorable state of dilapidation, and in some places the sea has -undermined, and made such<a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a> breaches in them, as even to threaten the -very existence of the city, should it be exposed to a tempest similar to -that which did so much mischief to it some seventy years since. This -decay is particularly observable, too, on the south side of the -fortress, where the sea-wall is exposed to the full sweep of the -Atlantic; and here the mischief has resulted chiefly from the want of -timely attention to its repairs, for the wall itself is a perfect -masterpiece of the building art. Regarding it as such, I venture to -devote a small space to its description, conceiving that a hint may be -advantageously taken therefrom in the future construction of piers, -wharfs, &c. in our own country; and I am the more induced to do so, -since so small a portion of the work remains in its pristine state, that -it already must be spoken of rather as a thing that <i>has been</i>, than one -which <i>is</i>.</p> - -<p>The great object of the builder was to secure the foundation of his wall -from the assaults of the ocean, which, at times, breaks with excessive -violence upon this coast. For this purpose, he formed an artificial -beach, by clearing away the loose rocks which lay strewed about, and -inserting in the space thus prepared and levelled, a strong wooden -frame-work formed of cases dovetailed into and well fastened to each -other. These cases were filled with stones, and secured by numerous -piles. The surface was<a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a> composed of beams of wood, placed close -together, carefully caulked, and laid so as to form an inclined plane, -at an angle of eight degrees and a half with the horizon.</p> - -<p>This beach extended twenty-seven yards from the sea-wall; and its foot, -by resting against a kind of breakwater formed of large stones, was -saved from being exposed, vertically, to the action of the sea. The -waves, thus broke upon the artificial beach, and running up its smooth -surface without meeting the slightest resistance, expended, in a great -measure, their strength ere reaching the foot of the wall.</p> - -<p>To avoid, however, the shock which would still have been felt by the -waves breaking against the ramparts, (especially when the sea was -unusually agitated) had the planes of the beach and wall met at an -angle, the upper portion of the surface of the artificial beach—for -about fifteen feet—was laid with large blocks of stone, and united in a -curve, or inverted arch, with the casing of the walls of the rampart; -and the waves being, by this means, conducted upwards, without -experiencing a check, spent their remaining strength in the air, and -fell back upon the wooden beach in a harmless shower of spray.</p> - -<p>So well was the work executed, that many portions of the arch which -connected the beach with the scarped masonry of the rampart are<a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a> yet -perfect, and may be seen projecting from the face of the wall, about -twenty feet above its foundation; although the beach upon which it -rested has been entirely swept away.</p> - -<p>Another cause, besides neglect, has contributed greatly to the -destruction of this work; namely, the injudicious removal of the stones -and ledges of rock which formed the breakwater of the beach, for -erecting houses and repairing the walls of the city.</p> - -<p>The ride round the ramparts would be an agreeable variety to the -<i>eternal paseo</i> on the <i>Camino de Ercoles</i>,<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> but for the insufferable -odours that arise from the vast heaps of filth deposited on one part of -it. To such an extent has this nuisance reached, that, without another -river Alpheus, even the hard-working son of Jupiter (the city’s reputed -founder) would find its removal no easy task.</p> - -<p>The arsenal of the <i>Carracas</i> is situated on the northern bank of the -Santi Petri river, about half a mile within the mouth by which that -channel communicates with the bay of Cadiz, and at a distance of two -leagues from the city, to which it has no access by land. Its plan is -laid on a magnificent scale, and it may boast of having equipped some of -the most formidable armaments that ever put to sea; but<a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a> it is now one -vast ruin, hardly possessing the means of fitting out a cockboat. A -fire, that reduced the greater part of it to ashes some five and thirty -years since, furnishes the national vanity with an agreeable excuse for -its present condition.</p> - -<p>The road from Cadiz to Port St. Mary’s is very circuitous, and offers -little to interest any persons but military men and salt-refiners. I -will, therefore, pass rapidly over it—which its condition enables me to -do—merely observing that, from the branching off of the Chaussée to -Chiclana at the <i>Portazgo</i>, it makes a wide sweep round the salt marshes -at the head of the bay of Cadiz, to gain <i>Puerto Real</i> (eighteen miles -from Cadiz); and then leaving the peninsula of the <i>Trocadero</i> on the -left, in four miles reaches a long wooden bridge over the -Guadalete—here called the river San Pedro. Two miles further on it -crosses another stream by a similar means; and this second river, which -is connected with the Guadalete by a canal, has become the principal -channel of communication between Xeres and the bay of Cadiz.</p> - -<p>A road now turns off to the right to Xeres; another, on the left, to -Puerto Santa Maria; and that which continues straight on proceeds to San -Lucar, on the GuadalquivÃr.</p> - -<p>Puerto Real is a large but decayed town, possessing but little -trade,<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> and no manufactories.<a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a> Its environs, however, are -fertile—enabling it to contend with Port St. Mary’s in supplying the -Cadiz market with fruit and vegetables;—and a good crop of hay might -even be taken from its streets after the autumnal rains!—The population -is estimated at 12,000 souls.</p> - -<p>Puerto Santa Maria is a yet larger town than Puerto Real, and is -computed to contain 18,000 inhabitants. It is situated within the mouth -and extending along the right bank of the river, into which the -Guadalete has been partly turned. The entrance to the harbour is -obstructed by a sand bank, which is impassable at low tide; and at -times, when the wind is strong from the S. W., this bar interrupts -altogether the water communication with Cadiz.<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a></p> - -<p>The distance between the two places, across the bay, is but five miles; -by the causeway, twenty-four.</p> - -<p>The main street of Puerto Santa Maria is of great length, wide, and -rather handsome; and the place has, altogether, a very thriving look; -for which it is indebted, as well to the great share it enjoys of the -Xeres wine trade,<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> as to the fruitfulness of its fields and orchards. -The country, to some considerable extent round the<a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a> town, is perfectly -flat; and the soil (a dark alluvial deposit,) is rich, and highly -cultivated; it is, in fact, the market-garden of Cadiz, the inhabitants -of which place would die of scurvy, if cut off for six months from the -lemon-groves of Port St. Mary.</p> - -<p>The position of Puerto Santa Maria seems to correspond pretty well with -that of the Portus Gaditanus of Antoninus, viz., 14 miles from the -Puente Zuazo, (<i>Pons</i>;) the difference being only that between English -and Roman miles. But, besides that there is every appearance of the -Guadalete having altered its course, and consequently swept away all -traces of the Roman port, (or yet more ancient one of <i>Menesthes</i>, -according to Strabo,) a fertile soil is, of all things, the most -inimical to the <i>preservation</i> of <i>ruins</i>; for gardeners will have no -respect for old stones when they stand in the way of cabbage-plants. It -would, therefore, be vain to look for any vestiges of the ancient town, -in the vicinity of the modern one.</p> - -<p>To proceed to Xeres, we must retrace our steps, along the chaussée to -Cadiz, for about a mile; when, leaving the two roads branching off to -Puerto Real and San Lucar on the right and left, our way continues -straight on, traverses a cultivated plain for another mile, and then -ascends a rather steep ridge, distinguished in this flat country by the -name of <i>Sierra de Xeres</i>, though scarcely 500 feet high.<a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a></p> - -<p>The view from the summit of this ridge is, nevertheless, remarkably -fine. It embraces the whole extent of the bay of Cadiz; the bright towns -which stand upon its margin; the curiously intersected country that cuts -them off from each other; and the winding courses of the Guadalete and -Santi Petri.</p> - -<p>The slope of the hill is very gradual on the side facing Xeres, and the -view is tame in comparison with that in the opposite direction. The -road, which traverses a country covered with corn and olives, is -<i>carriageable</i> throughout; but there is a better route, which turns the -Sierra to the eastward, keeping nearer the marshes of the Guadalete. The -distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Xeres, by the direct road, is nine -miles; by the post route, ten.</p> - -<p>Xeres is situated in the lap of two rounded hillocks, which shelter it -to the east and west; and it covers a considerable extent of ground. The -city, properly so called, is embraced by an old crenated Moorish wall, -which, though enclosing a labyrinth of narrow, ill-built, and worse -drained streets, is of no great circuit, and is so intermixed with the -houses of the suburbs, as to be visible only here and there. The limits -of the ancient town are well defined, however, by the numerous gateways -still standing, and which, from the augmented size of the place, appear -to be scattered about it without any object.<a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a> Some of the old buildings -and narrow streets are very sketchy, and the number of gables and -chimneys cannot fail to strike one who has been long accustomed to the -flat-roofed cities of Andalusia.</p> - -<p>The principal merchants of the place reside mostly in the suburbs; -where, besides having greater space for their necessarily extensive -premises, their wine stores are better situated for ventilation; a very -important auxiliary in bringing the juice of the grape to a due state of -perfection. The numerous clean and lofty stores, interspersed with -commodious and well-built houses, gardens, greenhouses, &c., give the -suburbs an agreeable, refreshing appearance. But it is needful to walk -the streets with nose in air, and eyes fixed on things above; for, -though much wider, and consequently more freely exposed to the action of -the sun and air, than those of the circumvallated city, they are yet -more filthy, and quite as nauseating. Now and then, indeed, a generous -brown sherry odour salutes the third sense, counteracting, in some -degree, the unwholesome effects of the noxious cloacal miasms. But the -bad scents prevail in the proportion of ten to one; and, like the -far-famed distilling city of Cologne, Xeres seems to have bottled up, -and hermetically sealed, all its sweets for exportation.</p> - -<p>The population of the place is enormous—<a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a>being estimated at no less -than 50,000 souls. But the amount is subject to great variations, -dependant on the recentness of the last endemic fever, generated in its -pestiferous gutters. The inhabitants are all, more or less, connected -with the wine trade—which is the only thing thought of or talked of in -the place.</p> - -<p>The store-houses are all above ground. They are immense buildings, -having lofty roofs supported on arches, springing from rows of slender -columns; and their walls are pierced with numerous windows, to admit of -a thorough circulation of air. Some are so large as to be capable of -containing 4000 butts, and are cool, even in the most sultry weather. -The exhalations are, nevertheless, rather <i>overcoming</i>, even unaided by -the numerous <i>samples</i>, of which one is tempted to make trial. The -number of butts annually made, or, more correctly speaking, <i>collected</i>, -at Xeres, amounts to 30,000. Of this number, one half is exported to -England, and includes the produce of nearly all the choicest vineyards -of Xeres; for, in selecting their wines for shipment, the Xeres houses -carefully avoid mixing their first-growth wines with those of lighter -quality, collected from the vineyards of Moguer, San Lucar, and Puerto -Real; or even with such as are produced on their own inferior grounds.</p> - -<p>The remaining 15,000 butts are in part consumed in the country; where a -light wine,<a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a> having what is called a <i>Manzanilla</i><a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> flavour, is -preferred—or sold to the shippers from other places, where they are -generally mixed with inferior wines.</p> - -<p>The total number of butts shipped, annually, from the different ports -round the bay of Cadiz, may be taken at the following average—</p> - - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center">From</td><td align="left">Xeres</td><td align="right">15,000</td><td align="left">almost all to England.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">Puerto Santa Maria</td><td align="right">12,000</td><td align="left">chiefly to England and the United States.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">Chiclana</td><td align="right">3,000</td><td align="left" rowspan="2" class="bl">principally to the Habana,<br /> -the Ports of Mexico, and<br /> -Buenos Ayres.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">"</td><td align="left">Puerto Real</td><td align="right">500</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Total</td><td align="right" - class="btb">30,500</td><td align="left"> </td></tr> -</table> - -<p>But, besides the above, a prodigious quantity of wine finds its way to -England from Moguer and San Lucar, which one never hears of but under -the common denomination of Sherry.</p> - -<p>Most of the principal merchants are growers, as well as venders of wine; -which, with foreign houses, renders it necessary that one partner of the -firm, at least, should be a Roman Catholic; for “<i>heretics</i>†cannot hold -lands in Spain. Those who are growers have a decided advantage over such -as merely make up wines; for the latter are liable to have the produce -of the inferior vineyards of San Lucar, Moguer, and other places, mixed -up by the grower of whom they purchase. All Sherries, however, are -<i>manufactured</i>; for, it<a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a> would be almost as difficult to get an unmixed -butt of wine from a Xeres merchant, as a direct answer from a quaker. -But there is no concealment in this mixing process; and it is even quite -necessary, in order to keep up the stock of old wines, which, otherwise, -would soon be consumed.</p> - -<p>These are kept in huge casks—not much inferior in size to the great ton -of Heidelberg—called “<i>Madre</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> butts; and some of these old ladies -contain wine that is 120 years of age. It must, however, be confessed, -that the plan adopted in keeping them up, partakes somewhat of the -nature of “<i>une imposture delicate</i>;†since, whenever a gallon of wine -is taken from the 120 year old butt, it is replaced by a like quantity -from the next in seniority, and so on with the rest; so that even the -very oldest wines in the store are daily undergoing a mixing process.</p> - -<p>It is thus perfectly idle, when a customer writes for a “ten-year old†-butt of sherry, to expect to receive a wine which was grown that number -of years previously. He will get a most excellent wine, however, which -will, probably, be prepared for him in the following -manner:—Three-fourths of the butt will consist of a three or four year -old wine, to which a few<a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a> gallons of <i>Pajarete</i>, or <i>Amontillado</i>,<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> -will be added, to give the particular flavour or colour required; and -the remainder will be made up of various proportions of old wines, of -different vintages: a dash of brandy being added, to preserve it from -sea-sickness during the voyage.</p> - -<p>To calculate the age of this mixture appears, at first sight, to involve -a laborious arithmetical operation. But it is very simply done, by -striking an average in the following manner:—The <i>fond</i>, we will -suppose, is a four-years’ old wine, with which figure we must, -therefore, commence our calculations. To flavour and give age to this -foundation, the hundred and twenty years’ old “<i>madre</i>†is made to -contribute a gallon, which, being about the hundreth part of the -proposed butt, diffuses a year’s maturity into the composition. The -centiginarian stock-butt next furnishes a quantity, which in the same -way adds another year to its age. The next in seniority supplies a -proportion equivalent to a space of two years; and a fourth adds a -similar period to its existence. So that, without going further, we have -4+1+1+2+2=10, as clear as the sun at noon-day, or a demonstration in -Euclid.</p> - -<p>This may appear very like “<i>bishoping</i>,†or<a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a> putting marks in a horse’s -mouth to conceal his real age. But the intention, <i>in the case of the -wine</i>, is by no means fraudulent, but simply to distribute more equally -the good things of this life, by furnishing the public with an excellent -composition, which is within the reach of many; for, if this were not -done, the consequence would be, that the Xeres merchant would have a -small quantity of wine in his stores, which, from its extreme age, would -be so valuable, that few persons would be found to purchase it, and a -large stock of inferior wines, which would be driven out of the market -by the produce of other countries.</p> - -<p>The quality of the wine depends, therefore, upon the quantity and age of -the various <i>madre</i> butts from which it has been flavoured; and the -taste is varied from dry to sweet, and the colour from pale to brown, by -the greater or less admixture of <i>Pajarete</i>, <i>Amontillado</i>, and <i>boiled</i> -sherry. I do not think that the custom of adding boiled wine obtains -generally, for it is a very expensive method of giving age. It is, -however, a very effectual mode, and one that is considered equivalent to -a voyage across the Atlantic, at the very least.</p> - -<p>I have heard of an extensive manufacturer (not of wine) in our own -country, who had rather improved on this plan of giving premature old -age to his wines. He called one of the<a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a> steam-engines of his factory -<i>Bencoolen</i>, and another <i>Mobile</i>; and, slinging his butts of Sherry and -Madeira to the great levers of the machinery, gave them the benefit of a -ship’s motion, as well as a tropical temperature, without their quitting -his premises; and, after a certain number of weeks’ oscillation, he -passed them off as “East and West India <i>particular</i>.â€</p> - -<p>The sweet wines of Xeres are, perhaps, the finest in the world. That -known as <i>Pajarete</i> is the most abundantly made, but the <i>Pedro Ximenes</i> -is of superior flavour. There is also a sweet wine flavoured with -cherries, which is very delicious.</p> - -<p>The light dry Sherries are also very pleasant in their pure state, but -they require to be mixed with brandy and other wines, to keep long, or -to ship for the foreign market. Those, therefore, who purchase <i>cheap -Sherry</i> in England may be assured that it has become a <i>light</i> wine -since its departure from Spain.</p> - -<p>The number of <i>winehouses</i> at Xeres is quite extraordinary. Of these, as -many, I think, as five-and-twenty export almost exclusively to England. -The merchants are extremely hospitable; they live in very good style, -and are particularly choice of the wines that appear at their tables.</p> - -<p>The Spanish antiquaries have by no means settled to their satisfaction -what Roman city<a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a> stood on the site of modern Xeres. The common opinion -seems to be, that it occupies the place of <i>Asta Regia</i>, mentioned by -Pliny as one of the towns within the marshes of the GuadalquivÃr. -Florez, however, labours to prove that it agrees better with <i>Asido</i>. -But I do not think his arguments get over the difficulty arising from -the expression “<i>in mediterraneo</i>,†applied to that city; which agrees -better with <i>Medina Sidonia</i> than Xeres, the latter being close upon the -flats of the GuadalquivÃr, whereas the other is decidedly <i>inland</i> with -reference to them.</p> - -<p>The medals of Asido, Florez describes as having sometimes a bull, and at -others a “fish of the <i>tunny</i> kind,†upon them. Now this latter emblem -is, most certainly, more applicable to Medina Sidonia than Xeres, since -no fish of the “tunny kind†ever could have frequented the shallow muddy -stream of the Guadalete. And though the city of Medina Sidonia is -situated on the summit of a high hill, sixteen miles from the sea, yet -we may take it for granted that its jurisdiction extended as far as the -coast, to the eastward of the Isla de Leon; since it does not appear -that any town of note intervened between Cadiz and Besaro, or Besippone.</p> - -<p>The same author derives the name Xeres from the Persian <i>Zeiraz</i> -(Schiras); supposing it may have been so called from that having<a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a> been -the country of the Moslem chief who captured Regia.</p> - -<p>The word assimilates with our mode of pronouncing the name of the -existing town; and the wine of Schiraz was not less esteemed of old -amongst the easterns, than Sherry is now by us, and appears ever to have -been by the ancients; for tradition ascribes to Bacchus the foundation -of Nebrissa, in the vicinity of Xeres. May not, therefore, the celebrity -of its vineyards have led the Arabs to call the town Schiraz, or Xeres, -rather than the country of the chief who conquered it?</p> - -<p>Xeres was captured from the Moors by San Fernando, and, becoming -thenceforth one of the bulwarks of the Christian frontier, changed its -name from <i>Xeres Sidonia</i> to <i>Xeres de la Frontera</i>, by which it -continues to be distinguished from others.</p> - -<p>The Guadalete does not approach within a mile and a half of Xeres. This -river is the Chryssus of the Romans; and the Spaniards, ever prone to -boast of the ancient celebrity of their country, maintain it to be the -mythological Lethe of yet more remote times. On its right bank (about -three miles on the road to Medina Sidonia) stands a Carthusian convent -of some note. The pious founders of this edifice—as indeed was their -wont—located themselves in a most enviable situation. The<a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a> “<i>elisios -xerexanos prados</i>†were spread out before them, covered with fat beeves, -and herds of high caste horses, belonging to the order. The perfume of -the surrounding orange-groves penetrated to the innermost recesses of -this house of prayer and penance. The juice of the luscious grape, and -the oil of the purple olives that grew upon the sunny bank whereon it -stands, found their way, with as little obstruction, into its cells and -cellars. But still, with this Canaan in their possession, these austere -disciples of St. Bruno affected to despise the things of this world, and -held not communion with their fellow-creatures!</p> - -<p>The edifice is fast falling to decay; the brotherhood is reduced to a -score of decrepit old men; and—what alone is to be regretted—the -celebrated breed of horses has become extinct.</p> - -<p>The Guadalete winds through the valley overlooked by the <i>Cartuja</i>,<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> -and is crossed by a stone bridge of five arches. On gaining the southern -bank of the river, roads branch off in all directions. That to the -left—keeping up the valley—proceeds to Paterna (sixteen miles from -Xeres), and <i>Alcalà de los Gazules</i> (twenty-five miles). Another, -continuing straight on, goes to Medina Sidonia (eighteen miles); and a -third, that presents itself to the right, is directed across the country -to Chiclana, reducing<a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a> the distance to that place from twenty-six miles -(by the post-road) to sixteen.</p> - -<p>About four miles below the bridge are some store-houses, a wharf, and -ferry, called <i>El Portal</i>, from whence the river is navigable to Port -St. Mary’s. <i>El Portal</i> may be considered the port of Xeres, to which -place (distant about three miles) there is a good wheel-road.</p> - -<p>The fatal battle which gave Spain up to the dominion of the Saracens -(A.D. 714) was fought on the southern bank of the Guadalete, about five -miles from Xeres, on the road to Paterna. The robes and “horned helmet†-of Roderick, which he is supposed to have thrown off to facilitate his -escape, were found on the bank of the river, where a small chapel, -dedicated to Our Lady of <i>Leyna</i>, now stands. The sanguinary fight is -stated—with the customary Spanish exaggeration—to have lasted eight -days! and then only to have been decided in favour of the Mohammedans by -treason.</p> - -<p>But however much we may admire the valour displayed by the Gothic -monarch, in thus obstinately defending his crown, yet the rashness he -was guilty of, in drawing up his forces on such a field (in a country -abounding in strong positions, where the enemy’s superiority of numbers -would not have availed them), proves him to have been as little fitted -to command an army as to govern a kingdom.<a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">CHOICE OF ROADS TO SEVILLE—BY LEBRIJA—MIRAGE—THE MARISMA—POST -ROAD—CROSS ROAD BY LAS CABEZAS AND LOS PALACIOS—DIFFICULTY OF -RECONCILING ANY OF THESE ROUTES WITH THAT OF THE ROMAN -ITINERARY—SEVILLE—GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY—THE -ALAMEDA—DISPLAY OF CARRIAGES—ELEVATION OF THE HOST—PUBLIC -BUILDINGS—THE CATHEDRAL—LONJA—AMERICAN ARCHIVES—ALCAZAR—CASA -PILATA—ROYAL SNUFF MANUFACTORY—CANNON FOUNDRY—CAPUCHIN -CONVENT—MURILLO—THEATRE OF SEVILLE—OBSERVATIONS ON THE STATE OF -THE NATIONAL DRAMA—MORATIN—THE BOLERO—SPANISH DANCING—THE -SPANIARDS NOT A MUSICAL PEOPLE.</p></div> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> traveller who journeys on horseback has the choice of several roads -between Xeres and Seville. The shortest is by the marshes of the -GuadalquivÃr, visiting only one town, Lebrija, in the whole distance of -eleven leagues. The longest is the post route, or <i>arrecife</i>, which -makes a very wide circuit by Utrera and Alcalá de Guadaira, to avoid the -swampy country bordering the river. From this latter road several others -diverge to the left, cutting off various segments of the arc it -describes; and<a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a> in summer these routes are even better than the highway -itself, though heavy and much intersected by torrents in winter.</p> - -<p>On the first-named or shortest road, the town of Lebrija alone calls for -observation. It is about fifteen miles from Xeres, and stands on the -side of a slightly-marked mound, that stretches some little way into the -wide-spreading plain of the GuadalquivÃr. The knoll is covered with the -extensive ruins of a castle—a joint work of Romans and Moors—which -during the late war was put into a defensible state by the French. Most -writers agree in placing here the Roman city of Nebrissa;<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> in which -name that of the modern town may readily be distinguished. It is distant -about five miles from the GuadalquivÃr, and contains three convents, and -a population of 4,000 souls. The Posada is excellent.</p> - -<p>The country from Xeres to Lebrija presents an undulated surface, which -is clothed with vines and olives; but thenceforth the banks of the -“<i>olivifero BÅ“tis</i>†are devoted entirely to pasture, and the road is -most uninterestingly flat: so flat, indeed, that there is scarcely a -rise in the whole twenty-eight miles from Lebrija to Seville. It is not -passable in winter, and but one wretched hovel, called the <i>Venta del -Peleon</i>, offers itself as a resting-place. The river winds<a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a> occasionally -close up to the side of the road, and from time to time a barge or -passage boat, gliding along its smooth surface, breaks the wearisome -monotony of the scene; but in general the tortuous stream wanders to a -distance of several miles from the road, and is altogether lost to the -sight in an apparently interminable plain, that stretches to the -westward.</p> - -<p>The misty vapour, or <i>mirage</i>, which rises from and hangs over the low -land bordering the river, produces singular deceptions; at times giving -the whole face of the country in advance the semblance of a vast lake; -at others, magnifying distant objects in a most extraordinary manner. On -one occasion, we were surprised to see what had every appearance of -being a large town rise up suddenly before us; and it was only when -arrived within a few hundred yards of the objects we had taken for -churches and houses, that we became convinced they were but a drove of -oxen. These imaginary oxen proved in the end, however, to be only a -flock of sheep. The <i>Marisma</i>,<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> for such is the name given to this -low ground, affords pasturage for immense herds of cattle of all sorts, -and the herbage is so fine as to lead one to wonder what becomes of all -the <i>fat</i> beef and mutton in Spain.<a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a></p> - -<p>The post road from Xeres to Seville, as I have already mentioned, is -very circuitous, increasing the distance from forty-three to fifty-six -miles—reckoned fifteen and a half post leagues.</p> - -<p>For the first thirteen miles, that is, to the post house of <i>La Casa -real del Cuervo</i>, the road traverses a country rich in corn and olives, -but skirting for some considerable distance the western limits of a vast -heath, called the <i>llanura de Caulina</i>, whereon even goats have -difficulty in finding sustenance. The first league of the road is -perfectly level, the rest hilly. A little beyond the post house of El -Cuervo, a road strikes off to the left to Lebrija. The <i>arrecife</i>, -proceeding on towards Utrera, crosses numerous gulleys by which the -winter torrents are led down from the side of the huge <i>Sierra -Gibalbin</i>, which, here raising its head on the right, stretches to the -north for a mile or two, keeping parallel to the road, and then again -sinks to the plain. This passed, the remainder of the road to Utrera is -conducted along what may be termed the brow of a wide tract of low table -land, which, extending to the foot of the distant <i>SerranÃa de Ronda</i> on -the right, breaks in the opposite direction into innumerable -ramifications, towards the plain of the GuadalquivÃr.</p> - -<p>In the entire distance to Utrera, (twenty-four miles from <i>El Cuervo</i>) -there is not a single village<a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a> on the road, and but very few farms or -even cottages scattered along it. It is plentifully furnished with -bridges for crossing the various <i>barrancas</i><a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> that drain the mountain -ravines in the winter, and by means of these bridges the chaussée is -kept nearly on a dead level throughout. About midway there is another -post house. This road is so perfectly uninteresting, that, availing -myself of the earliest opportunity of quitting it and proceeding to -Seville by a more direct, if not a more diversified route, I will strike -into a well-beaten track that presents itself, edging away to the left, -about three miles beyond <i>El Cuervo</i>, and is directed on Las Cabezas de -San Juan, distant about six miles from the post road.</p> - -<p>Las Cabezas de San Juan is a wretched little village, which inscriptions -found in its vicinity have decided to be the <i>Ugia</i><a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> of the Romans. -It is situated on a knoll, commanding an extensive view over the -circumjacent flat country, and some years since contained a population -of a thousand or twelve hundred souls. But, having been the hotbed -wherein Riego’s conspiracy was brought to unnatural maturity, it was -razed to the ground during the short contest that restored Ferdinand to -a despotic throne, and “all its pleasant things laid waste."<a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a></p> - -<p>From hence to <i>Los Palacios</i> is ten miles. The country is flat, and but -partially cultivated. A short league before reaching <i>Los Palacios</i>, a -long ruined bridge, called <i>El Alcantarilla</i>, is seen at a little -distance off the road on the right. In the time of Swinburne, this -bridge appears to have been passable, and an inscription was then -sufficiently perfect to announce its Roman origin. It was probably -raised to carry a road from Lebrija to Utrera across a marshy tract, -which in winter is apt to be flooded by the <i>Salado de Moron</i>; or -perhaps the road over it may have been directed on <i>Dos Hermanos</i>, which -is known to be the Roman town of Orippo.</p> - -<p>Los Palacios is a clean compact village, of about 1,000 inhabitants. A -plain extends for many miles on all sides of it, but a slight, perhaps -artificial, mound rises slightly above the general level of the place on -its eastern side, and bears the weight of its ruined castle: the walls -of the village itself are also fast crumbling to the dust. The inns are -miserable; but a Spanish nobleman, with whom we had become acquainted at -Xeres, had obligingly furnished us with a letter of introduction to a -gentleman of the place, who entertained us most hospitably, and very -reluctantly—for he wished much to detain us—gave orders to the <i>dueña</i> -of his household to have the usual breakfast of chocolate<a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a> and bread -fried in lard prepared for us by daybreak on the following morning.</p> - -<p>From Los Palacios to Seville the distance is reckoned five “<i>leguas -regulares</i>,†but it is barely fifteen miles. The country to the north of -the village is very fruitful, and becomes hilly as one proceeds. At -about nine miles there is a solitary venta, on the margin of a stream -that comes down from <i>Dos Hermanos</i>; which village is situated about a -league off on the right.</p> - -<p>It is a matter of some little difficulty to make any of the roads -between Cadiz and Seville (that is, from Port St. Mary’s onwards) agree -with the route laid down in the Itinerary of Antoninus. The distance of -the <i>Portus Gaditanus</i> from <i>Hispalis</i> is therein stated to be -seventy-six Roman miles,<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> or, according to Florez, sixty-eight;<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> -which miles, if computed to contain eight <i>Olympic</i> stadia each, are -equal to seventy, and sixty-three British statute miles respectively; -the actual distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Seville being, by the -chaussée, sixty-six miles; by Lebrija and the marshes, fifty-two.</p> - -<p>On comparing these distances, therefore, one would naturally be led to -suppose that the Roman military way followed the circuitous line of the -existent chaussée, but that monuments and inscriptions, which have been -found at Las Cabezas de St. Juan and Dos Hermanos, prove<a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a> those places -to be the towns of <i>Ugia</i> and <i>Orippo</i>, mentioned in the Itinerary as -lying upon the road. We are under the necessity, therefore, of adopting -a line which reduces the distance from the <i>Portus Gaditanus</i> to -<i>Hispalis</i> far below even that given by Florez.</p> - -<p>The only way of meeting all these difficulties and premises seems to be -by taking a smaller stadium than the <i>Olympic</i>. That of 666â…” to a -degree of the meridian<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> I have generally found to agree well with the -actual distances of places in Spain, and it is a scale which we are -warranted in adopting, since it is sometimes used by Strabo on the -authority of Eratosthenes, and Pliny admits that no two persons ever -agreed in the Roman measures.</p> - -<p>Taking this scale, therefore (though a yet smaller would agree better), -I fix the first station, <i>Hasta</i>, at a small table hill, even now called -by the Spaniards <i>La Mesa de Asta</i>, lying N.N.W. of Xeres;<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> making -the distance from the <i>Portus Gaditanus</i> sixteen miles, as in the -Itinerary, instead of eight, as altered by Florez:<a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a> a number, by the -way, which scarcely agrees better with the actual distance from Port St. -Mary’s to Xeres—at which latter place he fixes Hasta—than the sixteen -miles of the original.</p> - -<p>The next place mentioned in the Itinerary is <i>Ugia</i>; determined, as has -been already stated, to have stood where Las Cabezas de San Juan is now -situated; and the distance from the <i>Mesa de Asta</i> to this place, -passing through <i>Nebrissa</i> (Lebrija—omitted in the Itinerary, as not -being a convenient halting-place for the troops), agrees tolerably well -with that specified, viz., twenty-seven Roman miles. The remaining -distances, viz., twenty-four miles to <i>Orippo</i> (Dos Hermanos), and nine -to <i>Hispalis</i> (Seville), agree yet better, though still somewhat below -the scale I have adopted.</p> - -<p>The appearance of Seville, approaching it on the side of the <i>Marisma</i>, -is by no means imposing. Stretching as the city does along the bank of -the GuadalquivÃr, its least diameter meets the view; and, from its -standing on a perfect flat, the walls by which it is encircled conceal -the most part of the houses, and take off from the height of the hundred -spires of its churches—the lofty <i>Giralda</i> being the only conspicuous -object that presents itself above them.</p> - -<p>The wide avenue which, after crossing the river <i>Guadaira</i>, leads up to -the city gate, is, however, prepossessing; a spacious botanical garden -is on the left hand, and, in advance of the city<a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a> walls, are the -Amphitheatre, the Royal Snuff Manufactory, and several other handsome -public buildings.</p> - -<p>Seville is generally considered,—at all events by its inhabitants,—the -largest city of Spain. It is of an oval shape, two miles long, and one -and a quarter broad; and, washed by the GuadalquivÃr on the eastern -side, is enclosed on the others by a patched-up embattled wall, the work -of all ages and nations.</p> - -<p>The city is tolerably free from suburbs, excepting at the Carmona and -<i>Rosario</i> gates on its western side; but numerous extramural convents, -hospitals, barracks, and other public edifices, are scattered about in -different directions, which, with the town of Triana, on the opposite -bank of the river, materially increase the size of the place, and swell -the amount of its population to at least 100,000 souls.</p> - -<p>Seville cannot be called a handsome city, for it contains but one -tolerable street; the houses, however, are lofty, and generally well -built, the shops good, and the lamps within sight of each other, which -is not usually the case in Spanish towns. Most of the houses in the -principal thoroughfares are built with an edging of flat roof -overlooking the street. This part of the house is called the <i>Azotea</i>, -and, with the lower orders, serves the manifold purposes of a dormitory -in summer, a place for washing and drying<a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a> clothes in winter, and a -place of assignation at all seasons.</p> - -<p>In hot weather awnings are spread from these <i>azoteas</i> across the -streets, rendering them delightfully cool and shady; the canvass -covering, fanned by the breeze, sending down a refreshing air, whilst it -serves at the same time as a shelter from the sun. Even in the most -sultry days of summer, I have never found the streets of Seville -<i>impracticable</i>.</p> - -<p>There are several spacious squares in various parts of the city; in the -largest, distinguished by the extraordinary, though, perhaps, not -<i>unsuitable</i> name of <i>La Plaza de la Incarnacion</i>, the market is held. -This is abundantly supplied with bread, meat, fish, poultry, and all -sorts of vegetables and fruits, and is, perhaps, the cheapest in -Andalusia; it certainly is the cleanest.</p> - -<p>The <i>Alamedas</i>, of which there are two, are equally as well taken care -of as the market, though in point of beauty they are not quite deserving -of the praise which has been bestowed upon them. One is in the interior -of the city, and becomes only a place of general resort when the weather -is unsettled. The other more commonly frequented walk is between the -walls of the town and the GuadalquivÃr, extending nearly a mile along -the bank of the river, from the <i>Torre del Oro</i> to the bridge of boats -communicating<a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a> with Triana. It is well sheltered with trees, and -furnished with seats, and is indeed a most delightful and amusing -promenade, being nightly crowded with all descriptions of people, from -the grandee of the first class to the goatskin clad swineherd, who -visits the city for a <i>sombrero</i> of the <i>ultima moda</i>, or a fresh supply -of <i>bacallao</i>.</p> - -<p>The carriage drive round the walk is generally thronged with equipages -of all sorts and ages, any one of which, shown as a <i>spectacle</i> in -England, would most assuredly make the exhibitor’s fortune. The <i>blazon</i> -on the pannels, and venerable cocked hats and laced coats of the drivers -and attendants, bespeak them, nevertheless, to belong to <i>sons of -somebody</i>; and the wives and daughters of somebody seated therein, seem -not a little proud of possessing these indubitable proofs of the -antiquity of their houses. Few of these distinguished personages, -however, excepting such as labour under the infliction of gout, -rheumatism, or the indelible marks of old age, are satisfied to remain -quiet spectators of the gay scene; but, after driving once or twice -round the <i>paseo</i> to see <i>who</i> has arrived, alight, and join the flutter -of their fans, and, with grief I say it, their loud laugh and -conversation to the already over-powering din of the “promiscuous -multitude.â€</p> - -<p>This scene of gaiety is prolonged until long<a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a> after the sun has ceased -to gild the mirror-like surface of the GuadalquivÃr. The walk, indeed, -is still in its most fashionable state of throng, when a tinkling bell, -announcing the elevation of the Host, marks the concluding ceremony of -the vesper service in a neighbouring church. At this signal the motley -crowd appears as if touched by the wand of an enchanter. Each devout -Romanist either reverentially bends the knee, or stands statue-like on -the spot where the homage-commanding sound first reached the ear. The -men take off their hats—the ladies drop their fans. The coachmen check -their hacks—the hacks hang down their heads—not a whisper is heard, -not an eye is raised. The bell sounds a second time, and animation -returns, the breast is marked with repeated crosses, the dust brushed -off the knees, “<i>conques</i>†innumerable take up the interrupted -conversation, and once more</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Soft eyes look love to eyes which speak again.â€<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>So ludicrously observant are the Spaniards of this ceremony, that, on -the ringing of the bell, I once remarked a water-carrier stop in the -midst of his sonorous cry, “<i>A....</i>†and devoutly uncovering his head, -and crossing himself, wait until the second tinkle permitted him again -to open his mouth; when, with most comical gravity, he finished the -wanting syllable “<i>gua!</i> <i>Agua fres—ca!</i>"<a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a></p> - -<p>The GuadalquivÃr is about 200 yards wide at Seville, where it forms a -kind of basin, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons burthen. It is -so liable to be swollen by the freshes poured down from the mountains in -the upper part of its course, that a permanent bridge has never been -attempted; and the banks are so low, that the floods have frequently -reached to the very gates of the city. The influence of the tide is felt -some little distance above Seville, rendering the water of the river -unfit for general purposes. The water of the wells, on the other hand, -is considered unwholesome, so that the city is, in a great measure, -dependent for its supply of this most necessary article on an aqueduct, -that brings a stream from <i>Alcalà de Guadaira</i>, a distance of about nine -miles.</p> - -<p>The populous town of Triana is still worse off than Seville, for, as the -expedient of a leather pipe has not yet been thought of, the “essential -fluid†has to be carried across the river on men’s or asses’ backs, -rendering it a most expensive article of consumption; a circumstance -that accounts, in a great measure, for the very Egyptian complexion of -the inhabitants.</p> - -<p>The public buildings of Seville fully entitle the city to its boasted -title of the Western Capital of Spain. It contains no less than sixty -convents and nunneries, besides numerous other religious establishments -and hospitals.<a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a> The Archiepiscopal Church is the largest in Spain,<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> -its dimensions being 450 feet by 260; and it is one of the most splendid -piles in the universe. The architecture of the exterior is heavy and -tasteless, so that one is but little prepared for the striking change -which meets the eye on drawing aside the ponderous leathern curtain that -closes the portal, and entering the vast vaulted interior.</p> - -<p>It is built in the gothic style, not of a florid kind, however, but -simple, aërial, and imposing. The colour of the free stone used in its -construction is a subdued white; the pavement is laid in squares of -black and white marble, and the stained glass windows, which are of -extreme beauty, shed a warm, variegated glow throughout the building, -that produces an effect well suited to its character. Indeed, no -cathedral that I have any where seen either presents a more striking -coup d’œil, or draws forth, in a greater degree, that instinctive -feeling of devotion implanted in the human breast. The walls, too, are -not so disfigured with tawdry chapels, as those of most Roman Catholic -churches, and the few paintings with which they are decorated are <i>chef -d’œuvres</i> of the best Spanish masters.</p> - -<p>One modern painting has, however, been<a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a> admitted to the collection, -rather, I should think, out of compliment to the ladies of Seville, than -on account of its own merit. It represents two maidens of this saintly -city, who, “<i>mucho tiempo hay</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a> to use our conductor’s expression, -having been accused of some heretical practices, were exposed to be -devoured by a ferocious lion. The gallant sovereign of the woods and -forests, instead, however, of making a meal of these tempting morsels of -human flesh and imagined frailty, “<i>se echó à sus pies</i>,†and began -caressing them after his feline fashion, to the great astonishment of -all beholders! This miraculous want of appetite on the part of the lion, -making the innocence of the damsels evident, led, of course, to their -liberation, and their names are now enrolled upon the long list of -saints of Seville.</p> - -<p>The tower of the cathedral, commonly called <i>La Giralda</i>, from a -colossal statue of <i>Faith</i>, at its summit, which, with strange -inconsistency of character, wheels about at every change of wind, is by -no means a handsome structure. It was built by the Moors, about 250 -years before the city was captured by San Fernando, and originally was -only 280 feet in height; but a belfry has since been added, which makes -it altogether 364 feet high. The tower is fifty feet square, and the -ascent is effected by an inclined plane,<a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a> by means of which, some queen -of Spain is rumoured to have ridden on horseback to the gallery under -the belfry.</p> - -<p>The view from the summit of the tower fully repays one, even for the -labour of ascending it on foot, and I am not quite sure but that the -inclined plane rather increases than lessens the fatigue of mounting. -From hence alone can a correct idea be formed of the size and splendour -of Seville. The eye, from this elevation, embraces the whole extent of -the city, its long narrow streets, wide circuit of walls, its gateways, -magnificent public buildings, and spacious plazas, its verdant -orangeries, and its house-top flower-gardens. Beyond the busy city, a -fruitful plain extends for several miles in every direction; on one side -bearing luxuriant crops of corn and olives, on the other, giving pasture -to countless herds of cattle; the lovely GuadalquivÃr winding through -and fertilizing the whole.</p> - -<p>The Archiepiscopal palace occupies one side of a small square, that is -immediately under the <i>Giralda</i>; the façade of this building is -handsome, but we had not an opportunity of seeing the interior, as its -worthy occupier was unwell. Near the cathedral, but on the opposite side -to the Archbishop’s residence, is the <i>Lonja</i>; a splendid edifice, which -(as the name implies) was originally built for an exchange. But, though -the lower suites of apartments are still<a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a> set apart for the use of the -merchants, the building is so inconveniently situated, that no -commercial business is transacted there, and the whole of the upper -story has been fitted up as a repository for the “American archives.†-These records are most voluminous, and are preserved with as much care, -and ticketed with as great regularity, as if Spain shortly intended to -resume the sovereignty over her former vast transatlantic possessions.</p> - -<p>As a mark of especial favour, the tip of my little finger was permitted -to rest upon the edge of the first letter written from the <i>other -world</i>; the keeper of the archives requesting me, at the same time, not -to press too hard upon the valuable MS., and assuring us, that most -persons were obliged to be satisfied with looking at the precious -document bearing the signature of the adventurous Columbus, in its glass -case.</p> - -<p>The whole of the shelves, drawers, &c., are of cedar; a wood which has -the property of preserving the papers committed to their charge from all -descriptions of insects. The floors are laid in chequers of red and blue -marble, and the grand staircase is composed of the same, which is highly -polished and remarkably handsome. One of the apartments of the vast -quadrangle contains two original paintings of Columbus and Hernan -Cortes.</p> - -<p>A little removed from the <i>Lonja</i>, is the <i>Alcazar<a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a></i>, or Royal Palace. -This is kept up in a kind of half-dress state, and has a governor -appointed to its peculiar charge, who usually resides within its -precincts. It is built in the Moorish style, and is generally supposed -to have been the work of Moorish hands, though raised only—so at least -a Gothic inscription on its walls is said to state—by “the puissant -King of Castile and Leon, Don Pedro.â€</p> - -<p>There is probably some little exaggeration in this, and, in point of -fact, perhaps, the mighty monarch only repaired and added to the palace -of the Moorish kings, which the neglect of a hundred years had, in his -time, rendered uninhabitable. It is a very inferior piece of workmanship -to the Alhambra, but, nevertheless, contains much to admire, -particularly the ceilings of the apartments (of which there are upwards -of seventy), and the walls of one of the courts.</p> - -<p>The different towers command very fine views over the city and adjacent -country, and the gardens are delightful, though of but small extent. The -walks are laid with tiles, between which little tubes are introduced -vertically, that communicate with waterpipes underneath, and, by merely -turning a screw, the whole of the valves of these tubes are -simultaneously opened, and each shoots forth a diminutive stream of -water. This plan was adopted, as being an improvement<a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a> on the tedious -method usually practised in watering gardens. It affords the facetiously -disposed a glorious opportunity of inflicting a practical joke upon -unwary visiters to the Alcazar; who, conducted to the garden, and then -and there seduced, out of mere politeness, to join in the complaint -expressed of a want of rain, suddenly find themselves <i>over</i> a heavy -shower, and under the necessity of laughing at a piece of wit from which -there is no possibility of escape.</p> - -<p>The <i>Casa Pilata</i> is another of the sights of Seville. It is a private -house, said to be built on the exact model of that of the Roman governor -of Jerusalem. It is fitted up with much taste, but its chief beauty -consists in a profusion of glazed tiles, which give it actual coolness, -as well as a refreshing look.</p> - -<p>Most of the other subjects worthy of the traveller’s notice are situated -without the walls of the city. The first in order, issuing from the -Xeres gate, is the <i>Plaza de los Toros</i>, or amphitheatre, an immense -circus, one half built of stone, and the other half of wood, and capable -of accommodating 14,000 persons. The next remarkable object is the -<i>Royal Tobacco Manufactory</i>, (the term seems rather absurd to English -ears,) a huge edifice, so strongly built, and jealously defended by -walls and ditches, as to appear rather a detached fort, or citadel, -raised to overawe the turbulent city, than an establishment<a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a> for -peacefully grinding tobacco leaves into snuff, and rolling them into -cigars. The manufactory employs 5000 persons, and of this number 2600 -are occupied solely in making cigars. But, as I have elsewhere shown, -even with the assistance of the Royal Manufactory lately established at -Malaga, the supply of <i>lawful</i> cigars is not equal to one-tenth part of -the consumption of the country.</p> - -<p>The demand for snuff may probably be fully met by the Royal Manufactory; -for the Spaniards are not great consumers of tobacco through the medium -of the nose; and most of the snuffs prepared at Seville are extremely -pungent, so that “a little goes a great way.†There is a coarse kind, -however, called, I think, “Spanish bran,†which is much esteemed by -<i>connoisseurs</i>.</p> - -<p>The Royal Cannon Foundry is in the vicinity of the Tobacco Manufactory, -and though this establishment for furnishing the means of consuming -powder is not in such activity as its neighbour employed in supplying -food for smoke, yet it is in equally good order, and, on the whole, is a -very creditable national establishment. The brass pieces made here are -remarkably handsome, and very correctly bored, but they want the -lightness and finish of our guns—qualities in which English artillery -excels all others. Two of the “monster mortars,†cast<a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a> by the French for -the siege of Cadiz, are still preserved here.</p> - -<p>The Cavalry Barracks, Royal Saltpetre Manufactory, Military Hospital, -and various other edifices, planned on a scale proportioned to Spain’s -<i>former</i> greatness, together with numerous convents, equally -disproportioned to her present wants, follow in rapid succession in -completing the circuit of the walls. The most interesting amongst the -religious houses is a convent of Capuchins, situated near the Cordoba -gate. It contains twenty-five splendid paintings by Murillo, “any one of -which,†as a modern writer has justly remarked, “would suffice to render -a man immortal.â€</p> - -<p>Murillo was certainly a perfect master of his art. His style is -peculiar, and in his early productions there is a coldness and formality -that partake of the school of Velasquez; but the works of his maturer -age are distinguished by a boldness of outline, a gracefulness of -grouping, and a depth and softness of colouring, which entitle him to -rank with Rubens and Correggio.</p> - -<p>The paintings of Murillo, though met with in all the best collections of -Europe, where they take their place amongst the works of the first -masters, are, nevertheless, valued by foreigners rather on account of -their rarity than of their execution. The fact is, those of his -paintings which have left Spain are nearly all devoted to<a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a> the same -subject—the Madonna and Child; and, even in that, offer but little -variety either in the disposition, or in the colouring of the figures. -The Spanish artist is, consequently, accused of want of genius and -self-plagiarism. Nor does Murillo receive due credit for the pains he -took in finishing his paintings; for, amongst those of his works which -have found their way into foreign collections, there are few which have -not received more or less damage, either in the transport from Spain, or -by subsequent neglect; and, in many instances, the attempts made to -restore them by cleaning or retouching have inflicted a yet more severe -injury upon them.</p> - -<p>Those persons only, therefore, who have visited Spain, and, above all, -Murillo’s native city—Seville—can fully appreciate the merits of that -wonderful artist. The vast number of master-pieces which he has there -left behind him, and the variety of subjects they embrace, sufficiently -prove, however, that, whilst in versatility of talent he has been -equalled by few, in point of <i>industry</i> he almost stands without a -rival.</p> - -<p>Besides the twenty-five paintings in the Capuchin convent, already -noticed, the <i>Hóspital de la Caridad</i> contains several of Murillo’s -master-pieces; two, in particular, are deserving of notice—the subjects -are, the miracle of the loaves and fishes, and Moses striking the rock. -The great size<a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a> of these two paintings saved them from a journey to -Paris, but the French, in their zeal for the encouragement of the fine -arts, stripped the chapel of all the other works of Murillo that -enriched it—only a few of which were restored at the peace of 1815.</p> - -<p>Other paintings of the Spanish Rafael are to be found in the various -churches of Seville, and every private collector (of whom the city -contains many,) prides himself on being the possessor of at least one -<i>original</i> of his illustrious fellow-citizen.</p> - -<p>The theatre of Seville has ever held a comparatively distinguished place -in the dramatic annals of Spain; and, lamentable as is the condition to -which the national stage has been reduced, the capital of Andalusia may -still be considered as one of the most <i>playgoing</i> places in the -kingdom. This may, perhaps, partly be accounted for by the number of -dramatic authors to whom the city has given birth, partly by the -peculiar disposition of the inhabitants of the province, who are deeper -tinged with romance, and have more imagination than the rest of the -natives of the Peninsula.</p> - -<p>The deplorable atrophy under which the drama has of late years been -languishing in every part of Europe<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> had, aided by various<a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a> -predisposing circumstances, long been undermining the at no-time very -robust constitution of the Spanish theatre; which, like a condemned -criminal, existed only from day to day, at the will and pleasure of a -despotic sovereign; and had, moreover, constantly to combat the -hostility of the priesthood: a bigoted race, prone at all times to -discourage an art, which, by enlarging the understandings of the -community, tended to diminish the respect with which their own profane -melo-dramatic mysteries were regarded. The priests, in fact, have always -been, and ever will be, averse to their flock being fleeced by any other -shears than their own.</p> - -<p>Considering, therefore, the obstacles which the Spanish theatre has had -to contend against, obstacles which were yet more formidable in that -country in times past than they are at the present day, it cannot but be -admitted that the drama was cultivated in Spain with a degree of success -which could little have been expected.</p> - -<p>Our own early dramatists, indeed, drew largely from the prolific sources -opened by Lope de Vega, Calderon, and other Spanish writers of the -sixteenth century; and, perhaps, to the example set by those authors is -our stage indebted for its release from the thraldom<a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a> in which others -are yet held, by a preposterous, though <i>classic</i>, adherence to the -preservation of the unities.</p> - -<p>The drama (in the strict sense of the term) never, however, became a -popular amusement with the Spaniards generally. The legal disabilities -imposed upon the performers by the intrigues of the Romish church -brought the profession of an actor into disrepute, and, as a natural -consequence, checked the progress of the histrionic art. The stage had -no door opening to preferment, and the knight of the buskin (to whom, by -the way, the <i>Don</i> was interdicted), though endowed with the talents of -a Talma or a Kemble, of a Liston or a Potier, ranked below the lowest of -the train of bullfighters, and could never expect to amass a fortune, or -hope to be considered otherwise than as a “diverting vagabond.†A -Spanish actress was yet more discouragingly circumstanced, as, however -irreproachable her character, she held only the same grade in society as -the frail Ciprian whose beauty gained her livelihood.</p> - -<p>Labouring under such disadvantages, it is not surprising, therefore, -that Thalia and Euterpe should eventually have been driven from the -Spanish stage, and a licentious monster—the illegitimate offspring of -Comus and Impudicitia—have been crowned with the palm-wreath<a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a> snatched -from the brows of the immortal Parnassides.</p> - -<p>The modern Spanish dramatic authors—if it be not profanation so to call -them—pandering to the vitiated taste of the day, indulge in all the -licence of Aristophanes, without varnishing their obscenities with the -brilliancy of his wit. They write, in fact, for auditors, who, whilst -endowed with a quick perception of the ridiculous, are too ignorant to -discriminate between right and wrong, and cannot perceive where -legitimate satire ends, and libertinism commences; who, possessing a -vast stock of native wit, inherit with it a coarse, degenerate taste. -The human frailties of the monastic orders are, consequently, the -favourite subjects now held up to ridicule on the stage, as if to prove -the truth of Voltaire’s lines,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0"><i>"Les prêtres ne sont point ce qu’un vain peuple pense,</i><br /></span> -<span class="i1"><i>Notre credulité fait toute leur science</i>;"<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">and no modern <i>saynete</i><a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> is considered perfect, unless some member of -their church is brought forward to serve as a recipient for the ribald -jokes of an Andalusian <i>majo</i>, or to become the amatory dupe of an -intriguing <i>graciosa</i>.</p> - -<p>These pieces are not suffered to appear in print; or rather, I should -say, perhaps, would not <i>sell</i> if they were printed, for the press of -the day has far exceeded the bounds of decorum in<a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a> giving light to many -of the somewhat less objectionable productions of <i>Sotomayor</i>, -<i>Comella</i>, and other prolific scribblers of Vaudevilles. The only modern -dramatic writers who have been at all successful in obtaining public -favour on worthier grounds, are <i>Iriate</i>, <i>Martinez de la Rosa</i>, and -<i>Moratin</i>, but their writings are by no means numerous.</p> - -<p>The plays of the last-named (who is considered the Terence of Spain) are -always well received at Seville, where the dramatic taste is somewhat -more refined than in the minor provincial towns. They are full of -incident, without being encumbered with plot, like those of the old -Spanish school; and the dialogue is natural and sprightly, without -falling into licentiousness or vulgarity. This author’s translation of -Shakspeare’s Hamlet is lamentably weak, however, for his language is not -sufficiently elevated for tragedy. To Molière he has done more justice.</p> - -<p>The Spanish language is remarkably well adapted to the stage, being not -less melodious than emphatic and dignified; and there is a raciness -about it well suited to comedy, though, on the whole, I should say, it -is better adapted for tragedy. The national taste is, however, in favour -of comedy, which, besides being more congenial to the character of the -people, speaks more intelligibly to their uncultivated understandings.<a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a> -And, indeed, it must be confessed, that but for the infinite superiority -of the language, the long speeches of the heroes of Spanish tragedy -would be yet more wearying to listen to, than even the jingling, rhymed -declamations of the French drama.</p> - -<p>It is not surprising, therefore, that the impatient <i>Andaluzes</i>,—whose -whole thoughts are bent upon the coming Bolero and laughter-causing -farce,—should complain of the interminable “<i>platicas importunas</i>†of -their tragedies, and even of their <i>serious</i> comedies; especially since -they are delivered in a diction which to the lower orders is almost -unintelligible, the dialogue being generally carried on in the second -person plural, <i>vos</i>: a style which is never now heard in common -parlance, and is, therefore, quite unnatural to them.</p> - -<p>I will, however, draw the curtain upon Spanish tragedy, and bring the -graceful <i>Baylarinas</i> upon the stage; at the first click of whose -castañets, whilst even yet behind the scenes, every bright eye sparkles -with animation, and every tongue is silenced.</p> - -<p>The Bolero, which is the favourite national dance, admits of great -variety as well of figures as of movements, for it may be executed by -any number of persons, though two or four are generally preferred. It is -a purified kind of <i>Fandango</i>, and, when danced by Spaniards, is as<a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a> -graceful and pleasing an exhibition as can be imagined. It is altogether -divested of those dervish-like gyrations, and other wonderful displays -of limbs and under-petticoats, that are so much the vogue on the boards -of London and Paris, and on which, in fact, the reputation of a -<i>Ballerina</i> seems to depend. In Spain the taste in dancing has not yet -reached this pitch of refinement; for, even in the <i>Cachucha</i>, when the -dancer turns her back upon the spectators, a Spanish lady deems it -necessary to turn her face from the stage.</p> - -<p>The castañets, though furnishing but little to the entertainment in the -way of music, afford the performers the means of displaying their -figures to advantage; and are yet further useful, by giving employment -to the hands and arms; which, with most dancers, public as well as -private, are generally found to be very much in the way.</p> - -<p>There are other dances of a less <i>modest</i> character than the <i>Bolero</i>, -which are performed at the minor theatres; but it may be said of Spanish -public dancing generally, that it is light, spirited, and <i>poetic</i>, and -admits of the display of considerable grace without being <i>indecent</i>.</p> - -<p>Although of all modern languages—that of dulcet Italy alone -excepted—the Spanish is the best adapted to song, yet the Spaniards -have little or no relish for musical entertainments.<a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a> The truth is, they -are not a musical nation. In expressing this opinion, I am aware that I -declare war against a host of preconceived notions; but in proof of my -assertion I will ask, what country possesses so little national music as -Spain? Has a single <i>known</i> opera ever been produced there? Is not her -church music all borrowed? Is not the trifling guitar the only -instrument the Spaniard is really master of? Is not the <i>Sostenuto</i> -bellow of the <i>arriero</i> almost the only approach to melody that the -peasant ever attempts?</p> - -<p>Spanish music consists of a few simple airs, which are probably -heir-looms of the Saracens; and a medley of <i>Boleros</i>, that may be -considered mere variations of one tune. Neither their vocal nor -instrumental performances ever reach beyond mediocrity, and in concert -they invariably sing and play <i>a faire casser la tête</i>.</p> - -<p>A fine climate and a gregarious disposition lead the peasantry to -assemble nightly, and amuse themselves by dancing and singing to the -monotonous thrumming of a cracked guitar; and this habit has earned for -the nation the character of being musical—a character to which the -Spaniards are little better entitled than the <i>Tom Tom</i>-loving black -<i>apprentices</i> of our West India islands.</p> - -<p>There are exceptions to every rule, and I willingly admit that I have -heard an opera of<a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a> Rossini very well performed by Spanish “<i>artists</i>.†-But that they do not <i>pride themselves</i> on being a musical nation is -evident from their always preferring Italian music to their own, though -they like to sing Spanish words to an Italian opera.</p> - -<p>The Theatre is a place of fashionable resort at Seville. It fills up a -vacuum between the Paseo and the Tertulia. And when the times are -sufficiently quiet to warrant the outlay, a sufficient sum is subscribed -to bribe a second-rate Italian company to expose their melodious throats -to the baneful influence of the sea breezes. The house is large and -rather tastily decorated, but so ill-shaped that, unless one is close to -the stage, not a word can be heard; and if there, the prompter’s voice -completely drowns those of the performers. The fall of the curtain at -the conclusion of the <i>Bolero</i> is generally the signal for the <i>beau -monde</i> to retire, leaving the highly seasoned <i>Saynete</i> to the enjoyment -of the “<i>gente baja y desreglada</i>.â€<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a></p> - -<p>This breaking up is not the least amusing part of the play. The -antediluvian carriages are again put in requisition; and now, besides -the cocked-hatted attendants, each vehicle is accompanied by two or more -torch-bearers on foot; so that the blaze of light on first issuing from<a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a> -the Theatre is most dazzling and astounding,—astounding, because it is -only on walking into the gutter, or over a heap of filth in the first -cross street one has occasion to enter, that the want of lamps in these -minor avenues renders the utility of this extraordinary illumination -apparent.</p> - -<p>Each carriage, after “taking up,†moves majestically off, its -torch-bearers running ahead to show the way, scattering long strings of -sparks, like comets’ tails, amongst the humble pedestrians.</p> - -<p>The Tertulias commence after the families have supped at their -respective houses, that is to say, at about eleven o’clock; and are -generally kept up until a late hour.<a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">SOCIETY OF SEVILLE—SPANISH WOMEN—FAULTS OF EDUCATION—EVILS OF -EARLY MARRIAGES, AND MARRIAGES DE CONVENANCE—ENVIRONS OF -SEVILLE—TRIANA—SAN JUAN DE ALFARACHE—SANTI PONCE—RUINS OF -ITALICA—ITALICA NOT SO ANCIENT A CITY AS HISPALIS—YOUNG PIGS AND -THE MUSES—DEPARTURE FROM SEVILLE—THE MARQUES DE LAS -AMARILLAS—WEAKNESS, DECEIT, AND INJUSTICE OF THE LATE KING OF -SPAIN—ALCALA DE GUADAIRA—UTRERA—OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRATEGICAL -IMPORTANCE OF THIS TOWN—MORON—MILITARY OPERATIONS OF -RIEGO—APATHY OF THE SERRANOS DURING THE CIVIL WAR—OLBERA—REMARKS -ON THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS.</p></div> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> society of Seville is divided into nearly as many circles as there -are degrees in the Mohammedans paradise. In former days, the bounds of -each were marked with <i>heraldic</i> precision, and those of the innermost -were guarded as jealously from trespass as the precincts of a royal -forest, but of late years politics have materially injured the fences. -The fine edged bridge of <i>Sirat</i> is no longer difficult of passage, and -a foreigner, in especial, provided some mufti of the Aristocracy but -holds out his hand to him, may reach the seventh heaven without the -slightest chance of stumbling over his pedigree.<a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a></p> - -<p>The English, above all other foreigners, are favourably received at -Seville, for the nobles of the South of Spain, not being so much under -court influence as those of the provinces lying nearer the capital, are -by no means distinguished for their love of <i>absolutism</i>. With some few, -indeed, the want of courtly sunshine has engendered excessive -liberalism; but the nobles of Andalusia generally may be considered as -favourably disposed towards a limited monarchy—that is, are of -moderate, or what they term <i>English</i>, politics.</p> - -<p>Of persons of such a political bias is the first circle of the society -of Seville composed, and it is, perhaps, in every respect, the best in -the kingdom. It is adorned by many men of highly cultivated talents, and -much theoretical information, who, with a sincere love of country at -their hearts, are yet not arrogantly blind to the faults of its former -and present institutions; and who, removed to a certain extent from the -baneful influence of a corrupt court, are proportionably free from the -demoralising vices which distinguish the society of the upper classes in -the capital.</p> - -<p>The ladies of the <i>exclusive</i> circle are, it must needs be confessed, -deficient in education: but they possess great natural abilities, a -wonderful flow of language, and—excepting that they will pitch their -voices so high—peculiarly fascinating manners.<a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a></p> - -<p>The morals of Spanish women have usually been commented upon with -unsparing severity; it strikes me, however, that the moral <i>principle</i> -is as strong in them as in the natives of any other country or climate. -The constancy of Spanish women, when once their affections have been -placed on any object, is, indeed, proverbial, and if they are but too -frequently faithless to the marriage vow, the source of corruption may -be traced, <i>first</i>, to the lamentable religious education they -receive—since the demoralizing doctrines of the efficacy of penance and -absolution in the remission of sins furnish them at all times with a -ready palliative; and, <i>secondly</i>, to the habit of contracting early -marriages, and, especially, <i>marriages de convenance</i>, by which, in -their anxiety to see their daughters well established, parents—and -above all Spanish parents—are apt to sacrifice, not only their -children’s happiness, but their honour.</p> - -<p>Of all the evils under which Spanish society labours, this last is the -most serious as well as most apparent. A marriage of this kind, in nine -cases out of ten, tends to demorality. It is followed by immediate -neglect on the part of the husband, whose affections were already placed -elsewhere when he gave his hand at the altar; and is soon regarded by -the wife merely as a civil compact, to which the usages of society -oblige her to subscribe. With <i>her</i>, however,<a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a> this state of things had -not been anticipated. The innate, all-powerful feeling, <i>love</i>, had, up -to this period, lain dormant within her breast—for in Spain, if the -extremely early age at which females marry did not of itself warrant -this supposition, the little intercourse which, under any circumstances, -an unmarried woman (of the upper classes of society) has with the world, -naturally leads to the conclusion that her affections had not previously -been engaged; she expects, therefore, to receive from her husband the -same boundless affection that her inexperienced heart is disposed to -bestow on him;—and what is the inevitable consequence? Disappointed in -her cherished hope of occupying the first place in her husband’s -affections, her innocence is tarnished at the very outset, by thus -acquiring the knowledge of his turpitude; she turns from him with -disgust; and her better feelings, seared by jealousy and wounded pride, -seeks out some other object on whom to bestow the love slighted by him, -who pledged himself to cherish it.</p> - -<p>Thrown thus at an early age upon the world, without the least experience -in its ways, with strong passions to lead, and evil examples to seduce -her, is it surprising that a Spanish wife should wander from the path of -virtue, and that she should hold constancy to her lover more sacred than -fidelity to a husband who quietly submits to see another possess her -affections?<a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a></p> - -<p>The understanding once established, however, that jealousy is not to -disturb the ménage, the parties live together with all the outward -appearances of mutual esteem, and inflict the history of their private -bickerings only upon their favoured friends.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards of all classes have great conversational powers, but even -those of the upper are sadly deficient in general information. Their -knowledge of other nations is picked up entirely from books, and those -books mostly old ones; for few works are now written in their own -language, and still fewer are translated from those of other countries; -so that what little knowledge of mankind they possess is of the last -century.</p> - -<p>Cards help out the conversation at the Tertulias of the first circle. -Dancing, forfeits, and other puerile games, are the resources of the -rest. Balls and suppers are <i>funciones</i> reserved for great occasions, -and dinner parties are of equally rare occurrence.</p> - -<p>In the entertainments of the nobility, the French style prevails even to -the wines, but the national dish, the <i>olla</i>, generally serves as a -prelude, and may be considered the “<i>piece de resistance</i>†of the -interminable dinner. Toothpicks (!!) and coffee are handed round, and -the party breaks up, to seek in the <i>siesta</i> renewed powers of -digestion.<a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a></p> - -<p>To those, however, who think exercise more conducive to health, the -environs of Seville hold out plenty of attractions; and, if the weather -be too hot for either walking or riding, the city contains hackney -coaches and <i>calesas</i> without number, by means of which (most of the -roads in the vicinity being level) the various interesting points may be -reached without difficulty or inconvenience.</p> - -<p>The places most deserving of a visit in the immediate environs of -Seville, are the villages of <i>San Juan de Alfarache</i> and <i>Santi Ponce</i>; -near the latter of which are the ruins of Italica.</p> - -<p>Both these places are situated on the right bank of the GuadalquivÃr; -the former, about three miles below Seville, the latter a little more -distant, up the stream. The road to both traverses the long town of -Triana, which contains nothing worthy of observation but a sombre gothic -edifice, where the high altar of Popish bigotry, the Inquisition, was -first raised in the Spanish dominions. It has long, however, been -converted to another purpose, never, let us hope, to be again applied to -that which for so many ages disgraced Christianity.</p> - -<p>By many Triana is supposed to be the Osset of Pliny, but I think without -sufficient reason, as it does not seem probable that a place merely -divided from Seville by a narrow river should have been distinguished by -him as a<a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a> distinct city. The words of Pliny, “<i>ex adverso oppidum -Osset</i>,†imply certainly that Osset stood on the opposite bank of the -river to Hispalis, but not that it was situated <i>immediately opposite</i>, -as some authors have translated it. It is yet more evident that Alcalà -de Guadaira cannot be Osset, as supposed by Harduin, since that town is -on the <i>same</i> side of the GuadalquivÃr as Seville.</p> - -<p>Florez imagines Osset to have been where San Juan de Alfarache now -stands,<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> near which village traces of an ancient city have been -discovered; and the position occupied by an old Moorish castle, on the -edge of a high cliff, impending over the river, and commanding its -navigation, seems clearly to indicate the site of a Roman station, since -the Saracens usually erected their castles upon the foundations of the -dilapidated fortresses of their predecessors. The village of San Juan de -Alfarache stands at the foot of the before-mentioned cliff, compressed -between it and the GuadalquivÃr; which river, making a wide sweep to the -north on leaving Seville, here first reaches the roots of the chain of -hills bounding the extensive plain through which it winds its way to the -sea, and is by them turned back into its original direction.</p> - -<p>Of the Moorish fortress little now remains but the foundation walls; the -stones of the superstructure<a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a> having probably been used to build the -church and convent that now occupy the plateau of the hill. The view -from thence is quite enchanting, embracing a long perspective of the -meandering GuadalquivÃr and its verdant plain, the whole extent of the -shining city, and the distant blue outline of the Ronda mountains.</p> - -<p>The hills rising at the back of the convent are thickly covered with -olive trees, the fruit of which is the most esteemed of all Spain: and, -indeed, those who have eaten them on the spot, if they like the flavour -of olive rather than of salt and water, would say they are the best in -the world. The fruit is suffered to hang upon the tree until it has -attained its full size, and consequently will not bear a long journey. -For the same reason, it will not keep any length of time, as the salt in -which it is preserved cannot penetrate to a sufficient depth in its oily -flesh to secure it from decay. Let no one say, however, that he dislikes -<i>olives</i>, until he has been to San Juan de Alfarache.</p> - -<p>Retracing our steps some way towards Seville, we reach the great road -leading from that city into Portugal by way of Badajoz; and, continuing -along the plain for about five miles, we arrive at the priory of Santi -Ponce, situated on the margin of the GuadalquivÃr, and close to the -ruins of Italica. So complete has been the<a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a> destruction of this once -celebrated city, the birth-place of three Roman Emperors, that, but for -the vestiges of its spacious amphitheatre, one would be inclined to -doubt whether any town could possibly have stood upon the spot; the more -so as the vicinity of Seville seems, at first sight, to render it -improbable that two such large cities would have been built within so -short a distance of each other.</p> - -<p>Opinions on the subject of the relative antiquity of these two cities -are, however, very various; for, whilst some Spaniards are to be found, -who maintain that Hispalis was founded long before Italica, and some -who, declaring, on the other hand, that the two cities never existed -together, insist on calling Italica, <i>Sevilla la Vieja</i>;<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a> others -there are who suppose that the two cities flourished contemporaneously -for a considerable period, and that Hispalis (the more modern of the -two) eventually caused the other’s destruction.</p> - -<p>This last hypothesis might readily be received, since, from the -influence of the tide being felt at Seville and not at Santi Ponce, the -situation of the former is so much more favourable for trade than that -of the latter; but that, setting aside the traditionary authority of -Seville having been founded by <i>Hispalis</i>, one of the companions of -Hercules, we have the testimony<a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a> of several writers to prove that -Hispalis was a place of consequence when Italica must have been yet in -its infancy. For the antiquity of this latter is never carried further -back than the 144th Olympiad, i.e. 200 B.C. Now, Hispalis is mentioned -by Hirtius, at no very great period after that date, as a city of great -importance; whereas, Italica is noticed by him (proving it to have been -a <i>distinct</i> place) merely as a walled town in the vicinity.<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a></p> - -<p>The two places are again mentioned separately by Pliny; the one, -however, as a large city, giving its name to a vast extent of -country—the <i>Conventus Hispalensis</i>—the other as one of the towns -within the limits of that city’s jurisdiction.</p> - -<p>The foundation of Italica being fixed, therefore, about two hundred -years before the Christian era, and attributed to the veteran soldiers -of P. C. Scipio; that is to say, immediately after the expulsion of the -Carthagenians from the country; it may naturally be concluded that the -Romans, who had not come to Spain merely to drive out their rivals, -would, with their usual foresight, have planted a colony of their own -people to overawe the <i>principal city</i> of a country they intended to -bring under subjection; and hence, that Seville existed long before -Italica was founded.<a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a></p> - -<p>The amphitheatre, which alone remains to prove the former grandeur of -Italica, is of a wide oval shape. The dimensions of its arena are 270 -feet in its greatest diameter, 190 in its least. It rests partly against -a hill, a circumstance that has tended materially to save what little -remains of it from destruction; but, nevertheless, only nine tiers of -seats have offered a successful resistance to the encroachments of the -plough. Few of the vomitorios can be traced, but it would appear that -there were sixteen. Some of the caverns in which the wild beasts were -confined are in tolerable preservation.</p> - -<p>From the ruined amphitheatre we were conducted to a kind of pound, -enclosed by a high mud wall, and secured by a stout gate, wherein we -were informed other reliques of Italica were preserved. There was some -little delay in obtaining the key of this <i>museo</i>, the <i>custodio</i> being -at his <i>siesta</i>; and, hearing the grunting of pigs within, we began to -doubt whether it could contain any thing worth detaining us under a -broiling sun to see. Unwilling, however, to be disappointed, we -clambered with some little difficulty to the top of the wall, and, -<i>horresco referens!</i> beheld an old sow rubbing her back against that of -the Emperor Hadrian, whilst the profane snouts of her young progeny were -grubbing at the tesselated cheeks of Clio and<a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a> Urania, the only two of -the immortal Nine whose features could be distinctly traced in an -elaborate mosaic pavement that covered the greater part of the court.</p> - -<p>Several fragments of statues were strewed about; but all were in too -mutilated a state to excite the least interest. The feeling with which -we contemplated the beautiful, outraged pavement, was one of unmitigated -disgust; for the workmanship of such parts of it as remained intact was -of the most delicate description, the stones not being more than one -fifth of an inch square, and, as far as we could judge, put together so -as to form a picture of great merit. I fear that this valuable specimen -of the art has long since been altogether lost, for, at the time of -which I write, the stones were lying in heaps about the yard, and the -pavement seemed likely to be subjected to a continuance of the mining -operations of the “swinish multitude,†as well as to exposure to the -destructive ravages of the elements.</p> - -<p>I could not refrain from expostulating with the owner of the piggery -(when he at length made his appearance) at this, in the words of Don -Quijote, <i>puerco y extraordinario abuso</i>. He was a wag, however, and -answered my “Why do you keep your pigs here?†precisely in the words -that an Irish peasant replied to a very similar question, viz., “But am -I to have<a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a> the company of the pig?†put to him by a friend of mine, who -had a billet for a night’s lodging on his cabin: to wit, “<i>No hay toda -comodidad</i>?†“Isn’t there every convey’nance?â€</p> - -<p>We then attempted to persuade him that the pigs being young and -inexperienced would probably kill themselves by swallowing the little -square stones piled up against the walls, when the supply of Indian corn -failed them. “No, Señor,†he replied; “<i>el Puerco es un animal que tiene -mas sesos que una casa</i>.†“The hog is an animal that has more (sesos) -brains (or bricks) than a house.†And, indeed, the discrimination of the -animal is wonderful, for, whilst we were yet arguing the case, one of -the little brutes grubbed up the entire left cheek of Calliope, to get -at a grain of corn that had fallen into one of the numerous crow’s feet -with which unsparing Time had furrowed the Muse’s animated countenance. -Without further observation, therefore, we abandoned the chaste -daughters of Mnemosyne to their ignominious fate, remounted our horses, -and bent our steps homewards.</p> - -<p>The foreigner who visits Seville, under any circumstances, cannot but -find it a most delightful place, and our short sojourn at it was -rendered particularly agreeable by the kindness and hospitality of the -<i>Marques de las Amarillas</i>, who, independent of the pleasure it at all -times<a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a> affords him to show his regard for the English, whom he considers -as his old brothers in arms, was pleased to express peculiar -gratification at having an opportunity of evincing his sense of some -trifling attentions that it had been in my power to pay his only son, -when, as well as himself, driven by political persecution to seek a -refuge within the walls of Gibraltar.</p> - -<p>The life of this distinguished nobleman, now Duke of Ahumado, has been -singularly varied by the smiles and frowns of fortune, and furnishes a -melancholy proof of the little that can be effected by talents, however -exalted, and patriotism, however pure, in a country writhing, like -Spain, under the combined torments of religious and political -revolution. For, the more sincere a lover of his country he who puts -himself forward, <i>having aught to lose</i>, may be, the more he becomes an -object of distrust and envy to <i>the many</i>, who seek in change but their -own aggrandizement. To him who would take the helm of affairs in times -of revolution, an unscrupulous conscience is yet more necessary than the -possession of extraordinary talents.</p> - -<p>The Marques de las Amarillas, well known in the “Peninsular War†as -General Giron, was appointed minister at war in the first cabinet formed -by Ferdinand VII. after he had sworn to the Constitution. A sincere -lover of rational liberty, and a strong advocate for a mixed form<a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a> of -government, the Marques, himself a soldier, saw the danger of permitting -the very existence of the government to be at the mercy of the -undisciplined rabble army, that, seduced by its democratic leaders for -their own private ends, had effected the revolution; and had projected a -plan for its partial reduction and entire reorganization.</p> - -<p>The <i>Exaltados</i>, however, fearful lest the establishment of a <i>rational</i> -form of government should result from a project which certainly would -have had the effect of allaying the existing agitation, accused the -Marques of a plot to subvert the constitution, and restore Ferdinand to -a despotic throne; and he was obliged to save himself from the impending -danger by a rapid flight, and to take refuge within the walls of -Gibraltar. There he remained during the period of misrule that preceded -the invasion of the country by the Duc d’Angoulême in 1823; suffering, -during the feeble struggle that ensued, from the most painfully -conflicting feelings that could possibly enter a patriot’s breast. For, -aware that his unhappy country had but the sad alternative of a -continuance in anarchy and misery, or of bending the neck to foreign -dictation, and receiving back the cast-off yoke of a despot, he could -take no active part in a struggle which, end as it would, was fraught -with mischief to his native land.<a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a></p> - -<p>It ended, as he had always foreseen, in the restoration of the -despicable monarch, who possessed neither the courage to draw the sword -in defence of what he conceived to be his <i>rights</i>, nor the virtue to -adhere to the word pledged to his people; who by his contemptible -intrigues exposed, and by his vacillating plans sacrificed, his most -devoted adherents; who with his dying breath bequeathed the scourge of -civil war to his wretched country; whose very existence, in fine, was as -hurtful to Spain, as is the odour of the upas-tree to the incautious -traveller who rests beneath its shade.</p> - -<p>The contemptible Ferdinand, restored to his throne, forbade the <i>Marques -de las Amarillas</i> to present himself in the capital—the crime of having -held office in a constitutional cabinet being considered quite -sufficient to warrant the infliction of such a punishment. Some ten -years afterwards, however, he was, through the influence of his -relatives, the Dukes of Baylen and Infantado, appointed captain-general -of Andalusia, and on the death of Ferdinand was called to Madrid, to -form one of the Council of Regency.</p> - -<p>He again held a distinguished post in the Torreno administration, and -again fell under the displeasure of the anarchists—his talents had less -influence than the halbert of Serjeant Gomez.<a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a></p> - -<p>These are not merely “<i>cosas de España</i>,†however, but have been, and -will be, those of every country where the hydra, democracy, is -cherished. God grant that our own may be preserved from the many-headed -monster!</p> - -<p>We quitted Seville only “upon compulsion†(our leave of absence being -limited), making choice of a road which, though, by visiting Moron and -Ronda, it proceeds rather circuitously to Gibraltar, traverses a more -romantic and picturesque portion of the SerranÃa than any other. The -most direct of the numerous roads that offer themselves between Seville -and the British fortress, is by way of Dos Hermanos, Coronil, Ubrique, -and Ximena.</p> - -<p>The first place lying upon the road we selected is Alcalà de Guadaira. -This town is distant about eight miles from Seville (though generally -marked much less on the maps), and is the first post station on the -great road from Seville to Madrid.</p> - -<p>For the first five miles from Seville the road traverses a gently -undulated country, that is chiefly planted with corn; but, on drawing -near Alcalà , the features of the ground become more strongly marked, and -are clothed with olive and other trees; and amongst the hills that -encompass the town rise the copious springs which, led into a conduit, -supply Seville with water. Alcalà administers to yet another of<a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a> the -great city’s most material wants, for it almost exclusively furnishes -Seville with bread, whence it has received the agnomen of “<i>de los -panaderos</i>†(of the bread-makers), as well as that of “<i>de Guadaira</i>,†-which it takes from the river that runs in its vicinity. The numerous -mills situated along the course of this stream, by furnishing easy means -of grinding corn, probably led the inhabitants of Alcalà to engage in -the extensive kneading and baking operations which are carried on there.</p> - -<p>The immediate approach to the town is by a narrow gorge between two -steep hills; that on the right, which is the more elevated of the two, -and very rugged and difficult of access, is washed on three sides by the -Guadaira, and crowned with extensive ruins of a Moorish fortress. The -town itself is pent in between these two hills and the river, and, there -can be but little doubt, occupies the site of some Roman city, its -situation being quite such as would have been chosen by that people.</p> - -<p>That it is not on the site of Osset is, as I have before observed, quite -evident, and its present name, being completely Moorish, furnishes no -clue whatever to discover that which it formerly bore. Some have -supposed it is Orippo; but inscriptions found at Dos Hermanos determine -that place to be on the ruins of the said Roman town. Possibly—for such -a supposition<a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a> accords with the order in which the towns of the county -of Hispalis are mentioned by Pliny—Alcalà may be Vergentum.</p> - -<p>It is a long dirty town, full of ovens and charcoal, and contains a -population of 3000 souls. The chaussée to Madrid, by Cordoba, here -branches off to the left; whilst that to Xeres and Cadiz, crossing the -Guadaira, is directed far inland upon Utrera, rendering it extremely -circuitous. A more direct road strikes off from it immediately after -crossing the river, proceeding by way of Dos Hermanos.</p> - -<p>We still continued to pursue the great road, which, after ascending a -range of hills that rises along the left bank of the Guadaira, traverses -a perfectly flat country, abounding in olives, that extends all the way -to Utrera, a distance of eleven miles.</p> - -<p>Utrera thus stands in the midst of a vast plain, that may be considered -the first step from the marshes of the GuadalquivÃr, towards the Ronda -mountains, which are yet twelve miles distant to the eastward. A slight -mound, that rises in the centre of the town, and is embraced by an -extensive circuit of dilapidated walls, doubtless offered the inducement -to build a town here; and these walls, some parts of which are very -lofty, and in a tolerably perfect state, appear to be Roman, though the -castle and its immediate outworks are Moorish.<a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a></p> - -<p>What the ancient name of the town was would, without the help of -monuments or inscriptions, be now impossible to determine, but it -certainly did not lie upon either of the routes laid down in the -Itinerary of Antoninus, between Cadiz and Cordoba, though some have -imagined it to be Ilipa.<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> Others have supposed it to be Siarum; but -adopting Harduin’s reading of Pliny—“Caura, Siarum,†instead of -Caurasiarum—it seems more likely that Utrera was Caura, and that Moron, -or some other town yet more distant from Seville, was Siarum.</p> - -<p>By its present name it is well known in Moorish history, its rich -<i>campiña</i> having frequently been ravaged by the Moslems, after they had -been driven from the open country to seek shelter in the neighbouring -mountains.</p> - -<p>At the present day, it is celebrated only for its breeds of saints and -bulls, the former ranked amongst the most devout, the latter the most -ferocious, of Andalusia. The town is large, and not walled in; the -streets are wide and clean, and a plentiful stream rises near and -traverses the place—remarkable as being the only running water within a -circuit of several miles. It contains<a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a> 15,000 inhabitants, mostly -agriculturists, and a very tolerable inn.</p> - -<p>Utrera, as has already been observed, is situated on the <i>arrecife</i>, or -great road, from Cadiz to Madrid, which <i>arrecife</i> makes two -considerable elbows to visit this place and Alcalà . Now from Utrera -there is a cross-road to Carmona (which town is also situated on the -great route to the capital), that, by avoiding Alcalà , reduces the -distance between the two places from seven to six leagues; and from -Utrera there is also another cross-road (by way of Arajal) to Ecija, -which, by cutting off another angle made by the <i>arrecife</i>, effects a -yet greater saving in the distance to that city, and consequently to -Cordoba and Madrid. From these circumstances, Utrera becomes, in -military phrase, an important <i>strategical</i> point; and as such, the -French, when advancing upon Cadiz in 1810, attempted to gain it by the -cross-road from Ecija, ere the Duke of Albuquerque, who had taken post -at Carmona, with the view of covering Seville, could reach it by the -<i>arrecife</i>. The duke, however, with great judgment, abandoned Seville to -what he well knew must eventually be its fate, and by a rapid march -saved Cadiz, though not without having to engage in a cavalry skirmish -to cover his retreat.</p> - -<p>What important consequences hung upon the decision of that moment; for -how different<a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a> might have been the result of the war, had the important -fortress of Cadiz fallen into the enemy’s hands, and given them 30,000 -disposable troops at that critical juncture!<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a></p> - -<p>On issuing from Utrera, we once more quit the chaussée (which is -henceforth directed very straight upon Xeres), and, taking an easterly -course, proceed towards a lofty mountain, that, seemingly detached from -the serrated mass, juts slightly forward into the plain.</p> - -<p>At the distance of six miles from Utrera, the<a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a> ground, which thus far is -quite flat and very barren, begins to be slightly undulated, and is here -and there dotted with <i>cortijos</i> and corn fields; and, at eight miles -from Utrera, a road crosses from Arajah to Coronil; the first-named town -being distant about two miles on the left, the latter half a league on -the right. For the next league the country is one waving corn-field. At -the end of that distance we reached the steep banks of a rivulet, which -here first issues from the mountains, and is called <i>El Salado de -Moron</i>. The road crosses to the right bank of this stream, on gaining -which it immediately turns to the north (keeping parallel to the ridge -of the detached mountain, upon which, as I have already noticed, it had -previously been directed), and ascends very gradually towards Moron. The -country, during this latter portion of the road, is partially wooded. -The total distance from Utrera to Moron is about sixteen miles.</p> - -<p>Moron is singularly situated, being nestled in the lap of five distinct -hills, the easternmost and loftiest of which is occupied by an old -castle, a mixed work of the Romans and Moors.</p> - -<p>According to La Martinière, Moron is on the site of Arunci; and this -opinion seems to rest on a better foundation than that of other authors, -who maintain that Arcos occupies the position of the above-named ancient -city; for it<a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a> is natural to suppose that the territory of the <i>Celtici</i> -(amongst whose towns <i>Arunci</i> is enumerated by Pliny) did not extend -beyond the intricate belt of mountains known at the present day as the -<i>SerranÃa de Ronda</i>. Now, Moron commands one of the principal entrances -to the SerranÃa, whereas Arcos is situated far in the plains of the -Guadalete towards Xeres, and would seem rather to have been one of the -cities of the “county of Cadiz.â€</p> - -<p>Moron is a strong post, for though raised but slightly above the great -plain of Utrera, it commands all the ground in its immediate -neighbourhood; and, standing as it does in a mountain gorge, by which -several roads debouch upon Seville from various parts of the <i>SerranÃa</i>, -it occupies a military position of some consequence. The French guarded -it jealously during the war, and placed the castle in a defensible -state. Since those days its walls have again been dismantled; but the -strength of its position tempted Riego (1820) to try the chances of a -battle with the royal army, commanded by General Josef O’Donnel, ere he -finally abandoned the mountains.</p> - -<p>In vain, however, Riego pointed out to his men the far distant hill of -<i>Las Cabezas</i>, where they had first raised the cry of “Constitution, or -death;†their <i>exaltacion</i> had abandoned them, and they in turn -abandoned their exaltation,<a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a> leaving their strong position after a very -slight resistance. A few days afterwards, at <i>Fuente Ovejuna</i>, they were -entirely dispersed.</p> - -<p>The successful general, ready to march either against the insurgents of -the Isla de Leon, or upon the capital, wrote to the king, announcing -that the army of Riego was no more, and requesting to know his commands: -but “<i>eheu! quam brevibus pereunt ingentia causis!</i>†a few weeks after -this letter was penned, the victor was a prisoner at Ceuta, and the -vanquished general (without doing any thing in the meanwhile to retrieve -his character) had become the hero of hymns and ballads! The imbecile -Ferdinand, fearful lest, by further delay in accepting the Constitution -he should lose his crown, had despatched orders to those generals who -remained faithful to him, to give up their respective commands, just as -the tide of affairs seemed to be turning in favour of a continuance of -his despotic reign.</p> - -<p>The dispersion of the constitutional army proved two things, however; -the first, that Riego was no general; the second, that he and his party -had deceived themselves as to the political feeling of the inhabitants -of the province. In the course of his rambling operations, Algeciras and -Malaga were the only places where Riego was at all well received. In -vain he tried to maintain himself in the latter city;<a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a> driven out of it -at the point of the bayonet, he attempted to regain Cadiz, the -head-quarters of the revolt; but, closely pressed by the royal army on -his retreat through the SerranÃa, was obliged, as I have stated, to -receive battle at Moron, where the disorganization of his force was -completed.</p> - -<p>Moron contains a population of 8,000 souls, and is a well built town, -with wide streets, and good shops. There is a mountain road from hence -to Grazalema (seven leagues) by way of Zahara. The road from Moron to -Ronda passes by Olbera. The distance between the two places is -thirty-one miles. The country, immediately on leaving Moron, becomes -rough and desolate, and the road, (a mere mule-track,) traverses a -succession of strongly marked ridges, which, though not themselves very -elevated, are bounded on all sides by bare and rocky mountains. The -numerous streams which cross the stony pathway all flow to the south, -uniting their waters with the <i>Salado de Moron</i>. On penetrating further -into the recesses of the <i>SerranÃa</i>, the valleys become wider, and are -thickly wooded, and the luxuriant growth of the unpruned trees, the -absence of houses, bridges, and all the other signs of the hand of man, -offer a picture of uncultivated nature that could hardly be surpassed -even in the interior of New Zealand.<a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a></p> - -<p>At nine miles from Moron is situated the solitary venta of <i>Zaframagon</i>, -and, a mile further on, descending by a beautifully wooded ravine, we -reached an isolated rocky mound, under the scarped side of which, -embosomed in groves of orange and pomegranate trees, stands a -picturesque water-mill. From hence to Olbera is seven miles. The country -is of the same wild description as in the preceding portion of the -route, but gradually rises and becomes more bare of trees on drawing -near the little crag-built town. An execrable pavé, which appears to -have remained intact since the days of the Romans, winds for the last -two miles under the chain of hills over whose narrow summit the houses -of Olbera are spread, rising one above another towards an old castle -perched on the pinnacle of a rocky cone.</p> - -<p>By some Spanish antiquaries, Olbera has been supposed to be the <i>Ilipa</i> -mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, as being on the <i>second</i> route laid -down between Cadiz and Cordoba, passing by Antequera. This route, by the -way, is not a less strange one to lay down between the two cities, than -a post road from London to Dover <i>by way of Brighton</i> would be -considered by us; but the fancy of winding it through the least -practicable part of the mountains of Ronda, from Seville (if, as some -imagine, it first went to that city) to Antequera, is even yet more<a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a> -strange, since a nearly level tract of country extends between those two -cities in a more direct line.</p> - -<p>Considering it, however, merely as a military way, made by the Romans to -connect the principal cities of the province, and serving in case of -need as a communication between Cadiz and Cordoba, <i>avoiding Seville</i>; a -much more probable line may be laid down, on which the distances will be -found to agree infinitely better.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a></p> - -<p><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a></p> - -<p>Olbera is a wretched place, containing some 3,000 or 4,000 of the rudest -looking, and, if report speak true, of the least scrupulous, inhabitants -of the SerranÃa. Their lawless character has already been alluded to, -and, in Rocca’s Memoirs, a most interesting account is given of their -reception of him, when, with a party of dragoons, he was on the march -from Moron to Ronda.</p> - -<p>His description of the rickety old town-house, wherein he saved his life -from an infuriated mob by making a fat priest serve as a shield, is most -correctly given, and, in the present dark, suspicious-looking, -cloak-enveloped inhabitants, one may readily picture to one’s-self the -descendants of the men who skinned a dead ass, and gave it to the French -troopers for beef; ever after jeering them by asking “<i>Quien come carne -de burra en Olbera?</i> Who eats asses’-flesh at Olbera?â€</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td>Carula (Puebla de Santa Maria)</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ilipa (Grazalema)</td><td align="right">18</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ostippo<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> (La Torre de Alfaquime)</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td>Barba (Almargen)</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> -<tr><td>Anticaria (Antequera)</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td>Angellas</td><td align="right">23</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ipagro</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ulia</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cordoba</td><td align="right">18</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total</td><td align="right" - class="btb"><a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a>294</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a></p> - -<p>The view from the old castle is very commanding; the outline of the -amphitheatre of mountains is bold and varied, and the valleys between -the different masses are richly wooded. To the south may be seen the -rocky little fortress of Zahara, sheltered by the huge <i>Sierra del -Pinar</i>; and only about two miles distant from Olbera to the north, is -the old castle of Pruna, similarly situated on a conical hill that -stands detached from a lofty impending mountain.</p> - -<p>Olbera is fourteen miles from Ronda. At the distance of rather more than -a mile, a large convent, <i>N. S. de los Remedios</i>, stands on the right of -the road, and a little way beyond this, the road descends by a narrow -ravine towards <i>La Torre de Alfaquime</i>, and, after winding round the -foot of the cone whereon that little town is perched, reaches and -crosses the Guadalete. This point is about four miles from Olbera. The -stream issues from a dark ravine in the mountains that rise up on the -left of the road, and serves to irrigate a fertile valley, and turn -several mills that here present themselves.</p> - -<p>A road to Setenil is conducted through the narrow gorge whence the -little river issues, but that to Ronda, ascending for three quarters of -an hour, reaches the summit of a lofty mountain on whose eastern -acclivity are strewed the extensive ruins of Acinippo.</p> - -<p>The view is remarkably fine; to the westward,<a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a> extending as far as -Cadiz, and in the opposite direction looking down upon a wide, smiling -valley, watered by the numerous sources of the Guadalete, and upon the -little castellated town of Setenil, perched on the rocky bank of the -principal branch of that river. This place was very celebrated in the -days of the Moslems, having resisted every attack of the Christians,<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> -until the persevering “<i>Reyes Catolicos</i>†brought artillery to bear upon -its defences.</p> - -<p>The road to Ronda descends for two miles, and then keeps for about the -same distance along the banks of the Guadalete, crossing and recrossing -it several times. The surrounding country is one vast corn-field. -Leaving, at length, this rich vale, the road ascends a short but steep -ridge, whence the first view is obtained of the yet more lovely basin of -Ronda, which, clothed with orchards and olive grounds, and surrounded on -all sides by splendid mountains, is justly called the pride of the -SerranÃa.</p> - -<p>A good stone bridge affords a passage across the <i>Rio Verde</i>, or of -Arriate, about a mile above its junction with the Guadiaro; and the road -falls in with that from Grazalema on reaching the top of the hill -whereon the town stands.<a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">RONDA TO GAUCIN—ROAD TO CASARES—FINE SCENERY—CASARES—DIFFICULTY -IN PROCURING LODGINGS—FINALLY OVERCOME—THE CURA’S HOUSE—VIEW OF -THE TOWN FROM THE RUINS OF THE CASTLE—ITS GREAT STRENGTH—ANCIENT -NAME—IDEAS OF THE SPANIARDS REGARDING PROTESTANTS—SCRAMBLE TO THE -SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA CRISTELLINA—SPLENDID VIEW—JEALOUSY OF THE -NATIVES IN THE MATTER OF SKETCHING—THE CURA AND HIS -BAROMETER—DEPARTURE FOR THE BATHS OF MANILBA—ROMANTIC -SCENERY—ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITERS—THE MASTER OF THE -CEREMONIES—ROADS TO SAN ROQUE AND GIBRALTAR—RIVER GUADIARO AND -VENTA.</p></div> - -<p>R<small>ONDA</small> and the road from thence to Gaucin have been already fully -described; I will, therefore, pass on, without saying more of either -than that, if the road be one of the <i>worst</i>, the scenery along it -equals any to be met with in the south of Spain. The road was formerly -practicable for carriages throughout, but it is now purposely suffered -to go to decay, lest it should furnish Gibraltar with greater facilities -than that great commercial mart already possesses, for destroying the -manufactures of Spain—such, at least, is the excuse offered for the -present wretched state of the road.<a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a></p> - -<p>From the rock-built castle of Gaucin we will descend—by what, though -called a road, is little more than a rude flight of steps practised in -the side of the mountain—to the deep valley of the Genal, and, crossing -the pebbly bed of the stream, take a path which, winding through a dense -forest of cork and ilex, is directed round the northern side of the -peaked mountain of <i>Cristellina</i>, to a pass between it and the more -distant and wide-spreading <i>Sierra Bermeja</i>.</p> - -<p>The scenery, as one advances up the steep acclivity, is remarkably fine. -I do not recollect having any where seen finer woods; and the occasional -glimpses of the glassy Genal, winding in the dark valley below; the -numerous shining little villages that deck its green banks; the -outstretched town of Gaucin and ruined battlements of its impending -castle covering the ridge on the opposite side, and backed by the -distant mountains of Ubrique, Grazalema, &c., furnish all the requisites -for a perfect picture.</p> - -<p>Soon after gaining the summit of the wooded chain, the road branches in -two, that on the left hand proceeding to Estepona, the other to Casares. -Taking the latter, we emerged from the forest in about a quarter of an -hour, and found ourselves at the head of a deep and confined valley, -which, overhung by the scarped peaks of Cristellina on one side, is -bounded on<a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a> the other by a narrow ridge that, stretching several miles -to the south, terminates in a high conical knoll crowned by the castle -of Casares.</p> - -<p>The road, which is very good, keeps under the crest of the left-hand -ridge, descending for two miles, and very gradually, towards the town. -The view on approaching Casares is remarkably fine, embracing, besides -the picturesque old fortress, an extensive prospect over the apparently -champaign country beyond, which (marked, nevertheless, with many a -wooded dell and rugged promontory,) spreads in all directions towards -the Mediterranean; the dark, cloud-capped rock of Gibraltar rising -proudly from the shining surface of the narrow sea, and overtopping all -the intervening ridges.</p> - -<p>Before reaching Casares, the mountain, along the side of which the road -is conducted, falls suddenly several hundred feet, and a narrow ledge -connects it with the conical mound more to the south, whereon the castle -is perched. The town occupies the summit of this connecting link—which -in one part is so narrow as to afford little more than the space -sufficient for one street—but extends, also, some way round the bases -and up the rude sides of the two impending heights, thus assuming the -shape of an hour-glass.</p> - -<p>Having reached the <i>Plaza</i>,—and a tolerably spacious one it is -considering the little ground<a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a> the town has to spare for -embellishments,—we looked about for the usual signs of a <i>venta</i>, but, -failing in discovering any, applied to the bystanders for information, -who, pointing to a wretched hovel, on the wall of which was painted a -shield, bearing, in heraldic language, gules, a bottle sable, told us it -was the only <i>Ventorillo</i><a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> in the town.</p> - -<p>Now, though it is a common saying that “good wine needs no bush,†we had -yet to learn that dirty floors need no broom; and, unwilling to be the -first to gain experience in the matter, we determined, after a minute -examination of the house, to present ourselves to the <i>Alcalde</i>, and, in -virtue of our passports, ask his “aid and assistance†in procuring -better quarters.</p> - -<p>The unusual sight of a party of strange travellers had brought that -important personage himself into the market-place, who, collecting round -him the principal householders of the town, forthwith laid our -distressing case before them, and, in his turn, asked for aid and -assistance in the shape of advice.</p> - -<p>Our papers were accordingly handed round the standing council, and, -having been minutely inspected, turned upside down, the lion and unicorn -duly admired, the great seal of the Governor of Gibraltar examined with -eyes of<a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a> astonishment, and the question asked “<i>Son Ingleses?</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> -(which was excusable, considering the absurdity of giving passports in -<i>French</i> to English travellers in <i>Spain</i>) a shrug of the shoulders -seemed all that the <i>Alcalde</i> was likely to get in the way of advice, or -we in the lieu of board and lodging.</p> - -<p>Guessing at last, by the oft-repeated question concerning our -nationality, “<i>De que pie cojeaba el negocio</i>";<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> we took occasion to -signify to the conclave, that a few dollars would most willingly be paid -for any inconvenience the putting us up for the night might occasion. -Our prospects immediately brightened; each had now “<i>una salita</i>,†that -he could very well spare for a night or so ... “we had our own <i>mantas</i>, -so that we should require but mattresses to lie down upon—and as for -stabling, that there was no loss for"—in fact, the only difficulty -appeared to be, how the Alcalde should avoid giving offence to a dozen, -by selecting <i>one</i> to confer the favour of our company upon.</p> - -<p>He saw the delicacy of his position, and hesitated—“he himself, indeed, -had a spare room, but ...†here a portly personage, clothed in a black -silk cassock, and sheltered by an ample shovel hat, stepped forward to -relieve the embarrassed functionary from his dilemma; and<a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a> giving him a -nod, and us a beckon, drew his <i>toga</i> up behind, and walked off at a -brisk pace towards the castle hill.</p> - -<p>The claims of <i>El Señor Cura</i>—for such our conductor proved to be—no -one presumed to dispute; so making our bow to the <i>Alcalde</i>, who assured -us that</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0"><i>Quien a buen arbol se arrima</i><br /></span> -<span class="i2"><i>buena sombra le cobija</i>,<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">we followed the footsteps of the worthy member of the Church -Hospitaliar, without further colloquy.</p> - -<p>Our conductor stopped not, and spoke not, until we had reached the very -top of the town, and then, leading our horses into a commodious stable, -he ushered us into his own abode; wherein he assured us, if the -accommodation he could offer was suitable, “we had but to <i>mandar</i>.†It -consisted of a large <i>sala</i> and an <i>alcoba</i>, or recess, for a bed; the -latter scrupulously clean, the former lofty and airy. We, therefore, -expressed our entire satisfaction, requesting only that a couple of -mattresses might be spread upon the floor; a friend, who had joined us -at Gaucin, rendering this increase of accommodation necessary.</p> - -<p>Having given instructions to that effect, Don Francisco Labato—for such -our host informed<a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a> us were his <i>nombre y appellido</i>,<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> not omitting to -add, that he was a <i>clerigo beneficiado</i><a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>—proposed to accompany us, -to cast an ojeada<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> upon the curious old town, from the ruined -battlements of its ancient fortress; observing that there was yet -abundance of time to do so, “ere PhÅ“bus took his evening plunge into -the western ocean.â€</p> - -<p>We gladly accepted the proffered ciceroneship of our classical host, -and, mounting the rugged pathway up the isolated crag, in a few minutes -reached the plateau at its summit. It would be hardly possible to select -a less convenient site for a town than that occupied by Casares. Pent in -to the north and south between impracticable crags, and bounded on the -other two sides by deep ravines; it can, in fact, be reached only, -either by describing a wide circuit to gain the mountains, rising at its -back; or, by ascending a rough winding path, practised in the side of -the castle hill.</p> - -<p>The principal part of the town is clustered round the base of the old -fortress, the houses rising one above another in steps, as it were, and -occupying no more of the valuable space than is necessary to give them a -secure foundation. The streets, which are barely wide enough to allow a -paniered donkey to pass freely,<a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a> are formed out of the live rock, and, -here and there, are cut in wide steps, to render the ascent less -difficult and dangerous. These flat slabs of native limestone, when -heated by a summer sun, though passable enough by unshod animals, afford -but a precarious footing to a horse’s iron-bound hoofs.</p> - -<p>The castle can only be approached through the town, and although its -walls have long been in ruins, yet, so strong are its natural defences, -that the muzzles of a few rusty old guns, propped up by stones, and -protruded from the prostrate parapets, were sufficient to deter the -French from making any attempt upon the place during the war of -independence:—such, at least, is the version of the inhabitants.</p> - -<p>That Casares was a Roman town is almost proved by the name it yet bears; -but the matter is placed beyond a doubt on examining the old foundations -of the castle, which are clearly of a date anterior to the occupation of -Spain by the Saracens.</p> - -<p>The name it anciently bore strikes me as being equally obvious, viz., -<i>Cæsaris Salutariensis</i>; so designated from the mineral waters in its -neighbourhood, which, though <i>now</i> known by the name of the modern town -of Manilba, are within the <i>termino</i> of Casares. For, not only were the -valuable properties of these springs well known to the Romans, but, -according to<a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a> the common belief in the country, they performed a -wonderful cure on one of the emperors—Trajan, I think.</p> - -<p><i>Cæsaris Salutariensis</i> is mentioned by Pliny, amongst the Latin towns -of the <i>conventus gaditanus</i>; the limits of which country may, at first -sight, appear to be somewhat stretched to include Casares; but -Barbesula, which stood at the mouth of the river Guadiaro, at an equal -distance from Cadiz, (as is clearly proved by inscriptions found there,) -is also mentioned by that excellent authority as one of the stipendiary -towns of the same county; and the order in which they are enumerated, -viz., those first which were nearest to the capital, tends to confirm my -supposition.</p> - -<p>On our return from the old castle, which commands a splendid view, we -were not displeased to find that our host was no despiser of the good -things of this world, much as he gave us to understand that all his -thoughts were directed towards the never-ending joys of that which is to -come. Every thing bespoke a well-conducted <i>ménage</i>; the house, besides -being clean and tastily decorated with flowers, was provided with some -solid comforts. The <i>Cura’s niece</i>—his housekeeper, butler, and -factotum—was pretty, as well as intelligent and obliging. His <i>cuisine</i> -was tolerably free from garlic and grease, his wine from aniseed. Our -horses were up to<a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a> their knees in fresh straw; and three clean beds were -prepared for ourselves.</p> - -<p>Our host excused himself from partaking of our meal, he having already -dined, and, whilst we were doing justice to his good catering, paced up -and down the room pretending to read, but in reality watching our -movements, and, as it at first struck us, looking after his silver -spoons: but divers testy hints given to his bright-eyed niece that her -constant attendance upon us was unnecessary, soon made it evident that -<i>she</i> was the object of his solicitude; as, judging from the occasional -direction of our eyes, he rightly conjectured what was the subject of -our conversation. Anon, however, he would approach the table, thrust the -volume of Homilies under his left arm, and, taking a pinch of snuff, -(which he said was “<i>bueno para el estudio</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a>) ask our way of -thinking on various subjects, political and theological, always -prefacing his interrogatories by some observation, either on his passion -for study, the cosmopolitan bent of his mind, or the superiority his -learning gave him over the vulgar prejudices of the age. And, at length, -when the table was cleared, the niece gone, and he had elicited from us -that we were all three <i>English</i>, he observed, without further -circumlocution, “<i>Pues Señores</i>, you are not members of the <i>Santa -Iglesia, Catolica Romana</i>?"<a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a></p> - -<p>“No,†we replied, “<i>Catolica</i> but not <i>Romana</i>.â€</p> - -<p>“That is to say, you are heretical Christians.â€</p> - -<p>“That is to say, we differ with you as regards the corporeal nature of -the elements partaken of in the Eucharist; we deny the efficacy of -masses; the power of granting indulgences; and the necessity for -auricular confession:—and so far certainly we are heretics in the eyes -of the church of Rome.â€</p> - -<p>The worthy <i>Cura</i>—much as he had studied—was by no means aware that -our pretensions to Catholicism were so great as, on continuing the -controversy, he discovered them to be.<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> He made a stout stand, -however, for the absolute necessity of auricular confession; maintaining -that we, by dispensing with it, deprived the poor and ignorant of a -friend, a counsellor, and an intercessor;—stript our church of the -power of reclaiming sinners, and checking growing heresies;<a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>—and our -government of the means of anticipating the mischievous projects of -designing men.</p> - -<p>It was in vain we urged to our host that, in our favoured country, -education had done away with the necessity for strengthening the hands -of government by such means; that the poor were provided for by law; and -that the clergy were ever ready to counsel and assist those who stood in -need of spiritual consolation. But, before leaving us for the night, the -<i>Padre</i> admitted that <i>we</i> were certainly Christians, and that many of -the mysteries and practices of the Church of Rome were merely preserved -to enable the clergy to maintain their influence over the people;—an -influence which we deemed quite necessary for the well-being of the -state.</p> - -<p>Rising betimes on the following morning, we set off on foot to clamber -to the lofty peak of the <i>Sierra Cristellina</i>; and regular climbing it -was, for all traces of a footpath were soon lost, and we then had to -mount the precipitous face of the cone in the best way we could. The -magnificence of the view from the summit amply repaid us for the fatigue -and loss of shoe-leather we had to bear with; for, though scarcely 2000 -feet above the level of the sea, the peak stands so completely detached -from all other mountains, that it affords a bird’s eye view which could -be surpassed only by that<a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a> from a balloon. The entire face of the -country was spread out like a map before us. To the north, penned in on -all sides by savage mountains, lay the wide, forest-covered valley of -the Genal, its deeply furrowed sides affording secure though but scanty -lodgment to the numerous little fastnesses scattered over them by the -persecuted <i>Mudejares</i>, when expelled from the more fertile plains of -the GuadalquivÃr and Guadalete; and on which castellated crags the -swarthy descendants of these “mediatised†Moors still continue to reside -and bid defiance to civilization.</p> - -<p>These little strongholds stand for the most part on the summit of rocky -knolls that jut into the dark valley; and round the base of each a small -extent of the forest has in most cases been cleared, serving, in times -past, to improve its means of defence, and, at the present day, to admit -the sun to shine upon the vineyards, in the cultivation of which the -rude inhabitants find employment, when, obliged for a time to lay aside -the smuggler’s blunderbuss, they take to the axe and pruning-knife. -Behind, serving as a kind of citadel to these numerous outworks, rises -the huge <i>Sierra Bermeja</i>, which afforded a last refuge to the -persecuted Moslems; and at its very foot, about five miles up the valley -of the Genal, are the ruins of <i>Benastepar</i>; the birth-place of the -Moorish hero,<a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a> <i>El Feri</i>, whose courage and address so long baffled the -exterminating projects of the Spaniards.</p> - -<p>Turning now round to the south, a totally different, and yet more -magnificent, view meets the eye. Gibraltar,—its lovely bay,—the -African mountains, rising range above range,—and the distant Atlantic, -successively present themselves: whilst, from the height at which we are -raised above the intermediate country, the courses of the different -rivers, that issue from the gorges of the sierras at our back, may be -distinctly followed through all their windings to the Mediterranean, the -features of the intervening ground appearing to be so slightly marked as -to lead to the supposition that the country below must be perfectly -accessible;—but, as one of our party drily observed, those who, like -himself, had followed red-legged partridges across it could tell a -different story.</p> - -<p>We returned to Casares by descending the eastern side of the mountain, -which is planted with vines to within a short distance of the summit. In -fact, wherever a little earth can be scraped together, a root is -inserted. The wine made from the grapes grown on this bank is considered -the best of Casares; it is not unlike Cassis—small, but highly -flavoured. The town, looked down upon in this direction, has a singular -appearance, seeming to stand on a high<a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a> cliff overhanging the -Mediterranean shore, though, in reality, it is six or seven miles from -it.</p> - -<p>We amused ourselves during the rest of the afternoon in taking sketches -of the town from various points in the neighbourhood, and excited the -wrath of some passers-by to a furious degree. They swore we were -<i>mapeando el pueblo</i>,<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a> and that they would have us arrested; but we -were strong in our innocence, and turned a deaf ear to their menaces. It -is, however, a practice that is often attended with annoying -consequences; for I have known several instances of English officers -having been taken before the military authorities for merely sketching a -picturesque barn or cork tree—so great is the national jealousy.</p> - -<p>At our evening meal, our host, as on the former occasion walked -book-in-hand up and down the room, but was evidently less watchful of -his pretty niece and silver spoons. His attention, indeed, appeared to -be entirely given to the state of the mercury in an old barometer, -which, appended to the wall at the further end of the room, he consulted -at every turn, putting divers weatherwise questions to us as he did so. -And at last, he asked in plain language, whether our church ever put up -prayers for rain, and if they ever brought it.</p> - -<p>The occasion of all this <i>pumping</i> we found to<a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a> be, that the country in -the neighbourhood having long been suffering from drought, the -husbandmen, apprehensive of the consequences, had for some days past -been urging him to pray for rain, but the state of the barometer had not -hitherto, he said, warranted his doing so, and he had, therefore, put -them off, on various pretences. “Yesterday, however,†he observed, -“seeing that the mercury was falling, I gave notice that I should make -intercession for them; and, I think, judging from present appearances, -that my prayers are likely to be as effectual as those of any bishop -could possibly be.†And off he started to church, giving us, at parting, -a very significant, though somewhat heterodoxical grin.</p> - -<p>Nevertheless, not a drop of rain fell that night; the barometer was at -fault; and the only clouds visible in the morning were those gathered on -the brow of the <i>Cura</i>. They dispersed, however, like mist under the -sun’s rays; when, bidding him farewell, and thanking him for his -hospitable entertainment, we slipped a <i>doublon de à ocho</i> into his -hand; which, pocketing without the slightest hesitation, he assured us, -with imperturbable gravity, should be applied to the services of the -<i>church</i>—“as, doubtless, we intended.â€</p> - -<p>Threading once more the rudely <i>graduated</i> streets of the town, we took -the stony pathway,<a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a> before noticed, which winds down under the eastern -side of the castle hill, and in rather more than half an hour were again -beyond the limits of the SerranÃa, and in a country of corn and pasture.</p> - -<p>At the foot of the mountain two roads present themselves, one proceeding -straight across the country to San Roque and Gibraltar (nineteen and -twenty-five miles), the other seeking more directly the Mediterranean -shore, and visiting on its way the sulphur-baths and little town of -Manilba.</p> - -<p>The <i>Cura</i> had spoken in such terms of commendation of the <i>Hedionda</i> -(fetid spring)—claiming it jealously as the property of Casares—that -we were tempted to lengthen our journey by a few miles to pay it a -visit.</p> - -<p>The road to it follows the course of the little stream that flows in the -valley between the Cristellina mountain and Casares, which, escaping by -a narrow rocky gorge immediately below the town, winds round the foot of -the castle crag, and takes an easterly direction to the Mediterranean. -The country at first is open, and the stream flows through a smiling -valley, without encountering any obstacle; but, at about two miles from -Casares, a dark and narrow defile presents itself, which, the winding -rivulet having in vain sought to avoid, finally precipitates itself -into, and is lost sight of,<a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a> under an entangled canopy of arbutus, -lauristinus, clematis, and various creepers. So narrow and overshadowed -is the chasm, so high and precipitous are its bank—themselves overgrown -with coppice and forest-trees, wherever the crumbling rocks have allowed -their roots to spread—that even the sunbeams have difficulty in -reaching the foaming stream, as it hurries over its rough and tortuous -bed; and the pathway, following the various windings of the narrow -gorge,—now keeping along the shady bank of the rivulet, now climbing, -by rudely carved zig-zags, some little way up the precipitous sides of -the fissure,—is barely of a width to admit of the passage of a loaded -mule.</p> - -<p>So wildly beautiful is the scenery, so free from artificial -embellishments,—for the low moss-grown water-mills which are scattered -along the course of the stream, and here and there a rustic bridge, owe -their beauty rather to nature than art—so <i>romantic</i>, in fine, is the -spot, that, if in the vicinity of a fashionable <i>baden</i>, it could not -fail of being a little fortune to all the ragged donkey-drivers within a -circuit of many leagues, and of proving a mine of wealth to the -surveyors of <i>tables d’hôtes</i>, and <i>restaurans</i>, and keepers of billiard -and faro tables.</p> - -<p>The amusements of the frequenters of the humble <i>Hedionda</i> are, however, -very different,<a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a> and the sequestered dell is visited only by chanting -muleteers, driving their files of laded animals to or from the mills; -or, perchance, by some sulphurated old lady, who, ensconced in a -pillowed <i>jamuga</i>,<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> is bending her way, with renovated health, -towards Casares or Ximena: to which places the narrow fissure offers the -nearest road from the baths.</p> - -<p>After proceeding about a mile down the dark ravine, its banks, crumbling -down in rude blocks, recede from each other, and a huge barren sierra is -discovered rising steeply along the southern bank of the stream, to -which the road now crosses. It greatly excited our surprise how this -lofty and strongly marked ridge could have escaped our observation from -Casares, for it had seemed to us, that on descending from thence we -should leave the mountains altogether behind us.</p> - -<p>From the base of this barren ridge issues the <i>Hedionda</i>; still, -however, about a mile from us; and ere reaching it, the hills retiring -for a time yet more from the stream, leave a flat space of some extent, -and in form resembling an amphitheatre, which is planted with all kinds -of fruit-trees, and dotted with vine-clung cottages. This spot is called -<i>La Huerta</i>—the orchard; and these comfortless<a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a> looking little -hovels—pleasing nevertheless to the eye—we eventually learnt are the -lodging-houses of the most aristocratic visiters of the baths.</p> - -<p>Traversing the fruitful little dell, and mounting a low rocky ledge that -completes its enclosure to the east, leaving only a narrow passage for -the rivulet, we found ourselves close to the baths; our vicinity to -which, however, the offensive smell of the spring (prevailing even over -the strong perfume of the orange blossoms) had already duly apprized us -of.</p> - -<p>The baths are situated almost in the bed of the pure mountain stream, -whose course we had been following from Casares; and a short distance -beyond, and at a slight elevation above them, stands a neat and compact -little village.</p> - -<p>The season being at its height, we found the place so crowded with -visiters, that it would have been impossible to procure a night’s -lodging, had such been our wish. All we required, however, was -information concerning the place; for which purpose we repaired to the -<i>Fonda</i>,—a kind of booth, such as is knocked up at fairs in England for -the sale of gin, “and other cordials,"—and ordered such refreshment as -it afforded, asking the <i>Moza</i><a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> if she could tell us whether any of -the houses were vacant, &c.<a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a></p> - -<p>She replied, that the Fonda was provided with every thing necessary for -travellers of distinction, being established on the footing of the -hotels “<i>de mas fama</i>†of Malaga and San Roque; and that <i>El Señor -Juan</i>, the “<i>intendente</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> of the place,—who, doubtless, on hearing -of our arrival, would forthwith pay his respects to us,—could furnish -every sort of information respecting it.</p> - -<p>Oh! a master of the ceremonies, with his book, thought we—well, this -will be amusing: some urbane “captain,†no doubt, all smiles to all -persons!—and whilst we were yet picturing to ourselves what this -Spanish Beau Nash could possibly be like, a tall ungainly personage, -with a considerable halt in his gait, a fund of humour in his long -leathern countenance, and a paper cigar screwed up in the dexter corner -of his mouth, presented himself, and placed his services at our -disposition.</p> - -<p>He held a huge pitcher of the fragrant water in one hand, which, when he -was in motion, gave him a “lurch to starboard;†a stout staff in the -other, by means of which he established an equilibrium when at rest. His -body was coatless, his neck cravatless, his shirt sleeves were rolled up -to the elbow, leaving his brown sinewy arms bare; his trowsers hung in -braceless<a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a> negligence about his hips; his large bare feet were thrust -into a pair of capacious shoes; and his head was covered with a -high-crowned, narrow-brimmed, Frenchified hat, which had evidently -browned under the heat of many summers, and bent to the storms of -intervening winters. Round his neck hung a stout silver chain (which the -fumes of the sulphur-spring had turned as black as Berlin iron), whence -was suspended a ponderous master-key.</p> - -<p>“He must be the prison-keeper,†said we, “carrying the daily allowance -of water to the incarcerated malefactors!â€</p> - -<p>“This is <i>Señor Juan, el intendente</i>,†said our smirking attendant, -placing a bottle of wine upon the table before us.</p> - -<p>“Oh! this is <i>Señor Juan</i>, the master of the ceremonies!—Then pray be -seated, <i>Señor Juan</i>; and bring another wine-glass, <i>Mariquita</i>.â€</p> - -<p>Our requests were instantly complied with; and in half an hour we had -disengaged from the numberless “<i>por supuestos, conques</i>,†and “<i>pues</i>,†-with which Señor Juan interlarded his conversation, and from the smoky -exhalations in which he enveloped it, all the information we required -concerning the baths, though by no means so full an account of them as -the gossip-loving <i>Tio</i> seemed disposed to give us. So pleased were we, -however, with his description of the amusements of the place, and of the -valuable<a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a> properties of its waters, that, assuring him we should take an -early opportunity of renewing his acquaintance, and commending him to -the care of <i>San Juan Nepomaceno</i>, we arose, and took our departure.</p> - -<p>I was not long in performing my promise. Indeed, I became an annual -visiter to the baths for a few days during the shooting season; and will -devote the following chapter to a more particular description of the -<i>Hedionda</i>, and the manner of life at a Spanish watering-place.</p> - -<p>The mule-track from the baths to Gibraltar—for during the first few -miles it is little else—keeps down the valley for some little distance, -and then, ascending a steep hill, joins at its summit a road leading to -Casares from Manilba; which latter little town is seen about -three-quarters of a mile off, on the left. This road to Casares turns -the <i>sierra</i> overhanging the baths on its western side, where it meets -with some flat, nearly table-land; but our route to Gibraltar, after -keeping along it a few hundred yards, strikes off to the left, and, -traversing a wild and very broken country, in something more than three -miles forms its junction with the road from the town of Manilba to San -Roque and Gibraltar, which again, half a mile further on, falls into the -road from Malaga to those two places. This spot is distant five<a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a> miles -from the baths, and rather more than two from the river Guadiaro.</p> - -<p>Near some farm-houses on the left bank of this river, and about a mile -from its mouth, are ruins of the Roman town of <i>Barbesula</i>. Some -monuments and inscriptions found here, many years since, were carried to -Gibraltar.</p> - -<p>The bed of the Guadiaro is wide but shallow, and offers two fords, which -are practicable at most seasons. There is a ferry-boat kept, however, at -the upper point of passage, for cases of necessity. A venta is situated -on the right bank of the stream, whereat a bevy of custom-house people -generally assemble to levy contributions on the passers-by. It is a -wretched place of accommodation, though better than another, distant -about a mile further, on the road to Gibraltar, and well known to the -sportsmen of the garrison by the name of <i>pan y agua</i>—bread and -water—those being the only supplies that the establishment can be -depended upon to furnish. Its vicinity to some excellent snipe ground -occasions it to be much resorted to in the winter.</p> - -<p>At the first-named venta, two roads present themselves, that on the -right hand proceeding to San Roque, (eight miles,) the other seeking the -coast and keeping along it to Gibraltar—a distance of twelve miles.</p> - -<p>The country traversed by the former is very<a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a> rugged, but the path is, -nevertheless, unnecessarily circuitous. In various places—but a little -off the road—are vestiges of an old paved route, which, it is by no -means improbable, was the Roman way from <i>Barbesula</i> to <i>Carteia</i>, of -which further notice will be taken, when the coast road from Malaga to -Gibraltar is described.<a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">THE BATHS OF MANILBA—A SPECIMEN OF FABULOUS HISTORY—PROPERTIES OF -THE HEDIONDA—SOCIETY OF THE BATHING VILLAGE—REMARKABLE -MOUNTAIN—AN ENGLISH BOTANIST—TOWN OF MANILBA—AN INTRUSIVE -VISITER—RIDE TO ESTEPONA—RETURN BY WAY OF CASARES.</p></div> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> baths of Manilba lie about seventeen miles N.N.E. of Gibraltar, and -four, inland, from the sea-fort of Savanilla. The town, from which they -take their name, is about midway between them and the coast; and, -standing on a commanding knoll, is a conspicuous object when sailing -along the Mediterranean shore.</p> - -<p>The virtues of the sulphureous spring have long been known; but it is -only within the last few years that the increasing reputation of the -medicated source led a company of speculators to build the village which -now stands in its vicinity; the scattered cottages of the <i>Huerta</i> -having been found quite incapable of lodging the vast crowd of -valetudinarians, annually<a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a> drawn to the spot. The same parties have yet -more recently erected a chapel, and also the <i>Fonda</i>, mentioned in the -preceding chapter.</p> - -<p>The little village is built with the regularity of even Wiesbaden -itself, but nothing can well be more different in other respects than it -is from that, or any other watering-place, which I have ever visited. It -consists of five or six parallel stacks of houses, forming streets which -open at one end upon the bank overhanging the now sulphurated stream, -that flows down from Casares; and which abut, at the other, against the -side of the lofty mountain whence the medicated spring issues. These -streets are covered in with trellis-work, over which vines are trained, -rendering them cool, as well as agreeable to the sight. The houses are -all built on a uniform plan, namely, they have no upper story, and -contain but <i>one room each</i>; which room is furnished with the usual -Spanish kitchen-range—that is, with three or four little bricked stoves -built into a kind of dresser. By this arrangement, every room is, of -itself, capable of forming a <i>complete establishment</i>; and in most -cases, indeed, it does serve the triple purposes of a kitchen, a -refectory, and a dormitory, to its frugal inmates. When a family is -large, however, an entire lareet must be hired for its accommodation.</p> - -<p>The principal speculator in the joint-stock village is a gentleman of -Estepona; and <i>El<a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a> Señor Juan</i>—or <i>Tio Juan</i>, as he is familiarly -called by those admitted to his intimacy—is a poor relative, who, for -the slight perquisites of office, readily undertook the charge of the -infant establishment.</p> - -<p>The choice of the <i>Tio</i> was, in every respect, a judicious one; for, -having drunk himself off the crutches on which he hobbled down to the -baths, he has become a kind of walking advertisement of the efficacy of -the waters. He is not, however, like the unsightly fellows who -perambulate the streets of London with placards, a silent one; for I -know of no man more thoroughly versed in the art of <i>viva voce</i> puffing -than <i>Tio Juan</i>; and then he has stored his memory with such a fund of -useful watering-place information, that he is a perfect guide to the -<i>Hedionda</i> and its environs.</p> - -<p>The <i>Tio</i> and I soon became wonderful cronies; I derived great amusement -from his <i>cuentas</i>—he, much gratification from my nightly whisky-toddy. -In fact, the two dovetailed into each other in a most remarkable manner; -for, when once the <i>Tio</i> had attached one of his long stories to a -(<i>pint</i>) bottle of “poteen,†there was no possibility of separating -them—they drew cork and breath together, and together only they came to -a conclusion.</p> - -<p>He knew every body that visited the baths, and every thing about them; -could point out<a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a> those who came for health, and those who were allured -by dissipation; could tell which ladies and gentlemen were looking out -for matrimony, which for intrigue; whether the buxom widow had fruitful -vineyards and olive grounds with her weeds; whether the young ladies had -shining <i>onzas</i> to recommend them as well as sparkling eyes.</p> - -<p>Then the Tio knew where every medicinal herb grew that was suited to any -given case—could point out the haunt of every covey of red-legged -partridges in the vicinity—could tell to an hour when a flight of quail -would cross from the parched shores of Africa—when the matchless -<i>becafigos</i> would alight upon the neighbouring fig-trees—and, as the -season advanced, he would mark the time to a nicety when the first -annual visit of the woodcocks might be looked for to the wooded glens -beyond the baths.</p> - -<p>As the historian of the wonder-working spring, the <i>Tio</i> was not less -valuable; though, it must be confessed, the terms in which he conveyed -the idea of its vast antiquity were any thing but prepossessing; viz., -“<i>Pues! saben ustedes, que esa hedionda es mas vieja que la sarna.</i>†-“Know then, gentlemen, that this fetid spring is older than the itch.†-In other respects, however, the information he had collected, besides -being most rare, possessed a<a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a> freshness that was truly delightful; -“<i>Siglos hay</i>,<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a>†he would continue, “the spring was <i>endemoniado</i>, -for <i>Carlomagno</i>, or some other great hero of the most remote antiquity, -drove an evil spirit into the mountain, which said spirit, to be -revenged on mankind, poisoned the source whence the stream flows. Saint -James, however, arriving in the country soon after—having taken Spain -under his especial protection—determined to expel this imp of Satan. -This was done accordingly, and the devil went over into Barbary, (where -he eventually stirred up the Moors against the adopted children of -<i>Santiago</i>—the story of <i>Don Rodrigo</i> and <i>La Cava</i> being all a fable,) -leaving nothing but his sulphur behind.â€</p> - -<p>“The good saint, to perpetuate the fame of the miracle he had wrought, -next determined to endue the spring with extraordinary curative -properties; not depriving it, however, of the unusually bad smell left -by the devil, that the marvellous work he was about to perform might be -the more apparent to future generations.â€</p> - -<p>“Some years after this, the baths were visited by ‘<i>muchos emperadores -de Roma</i>;’<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> amongst others, Trajan and Hercules; as also by the -famous Roland; and, ‘<i>segun dicen</i>,’ by <i>un Ingles, llamado Malbrù, y -otra gente muy principal<a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a></i>.â€<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> “In those days,†continued the Tio, -“there were <i>palathios, posa’a, y to’o</i>,<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a> but then came the Moors -(with the devil in their train), and laid every thing waste. They had -not the power, however, to deprive the stream of its virtues; and great -they are, and most justly celebrated <i>por todo la España</i>.â€<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a></p> - -<p>In detailing the wonderful properties of the spring committed to his -charge, <i>Tio Juan</i> would enter with all the minuteness of an Herodotus. -By his account, there was no ailment to which suffering humanity is -exposed that it would not reach. It was a “universal medicine"—a -Hygeian fountain that bestowed perpetual youth—a Styx that rendered -mankind invulnerable. It gave strength to the weak, and ease to those -who were in pain—rendered the barren fruitful, and the splenetic, -good-humoured—made the fat, lean, and the lean, fat. By it the good -liver was freed from gout, and the bad liver from bile. The sores of the -leper were dried up, and the lungs of the asthmatic inflated—it made -the maimed whole, and patched up the broken-hearted. He had known many -instances of its curing consumption, and had seen it act like a charm in -cases of tympany.<a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a></p> - -<p>“In fact,†said old Juan—“<i>para todo tiene remedio</i>.—<i>Mir’ -usted</i><a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a>—I, who on my arrival here could not put a foot to the -ground, now, as you may perceive, walk about like a <i>Jovencito</i>;<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> -and, under proper directions, I have no doubt it would make a man live -for ever.â€<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a></p> - -<p>Nor did the long list of the water’s valuable qualities end here. It was -good for all the common purposes of life—for stewing and for -boiling—for washing and for shaving;—and, to wind up all, as we go on -sinning, until, by constant repetition, crime no longer pricks one’s -conscience, so, the <i>Tio</i> declared, one went on drinking this devilish -water until it positively became palatable. “<i>Jo no bebo otra</i>,†he -concluded, “<i>nunca bebo otra—guiso y to’o con ella</i>.â€<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a></p> - -<p>Now, though the Tio painted the yellow spring thus <i>couleur de rose</i>, -and his account of its wonderful properties, like his system of -chronology, must be received with caution, yet I must needs confess that -the <i>Hedionda</i> seemed to perform extraordinary cures; and, even in my -own case, I ever fancied that after a few days passed at the baths, I -returned to Gibraltar with invigorated<a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a> powers of digestion. I could by -no means, however, bring myself to submit to the <i>Tio’s</i> discipline, and -he was wont to shake his head very seriously, when, returning from a -hard day’s shooting, I used to request him to open a bath for me after -sunset—Hercules, himself, he thought could not have stood that.</p> - -<p>That this spring was known to the Romans there can be no manner of -doubt, since the public bath, which still exists, is a work of that -people. The source is very copious, and the water of an equal -temperature throughout the year, viz., 73 to 75 degrees of Fahrenheit’s -thermometer.</p> - -<p>On analysis it is found to contain large quantities of hydrogen and -carbonic acid gases, and the following proportions of fixed substances -in fifty pounds of water, viz., six grains of muriate of lime; fifty-six -of sulphate of magnesia; thirty-five of sulphate of lime; ten of -magnesia; and four of silica. The quantity of sulphur it holds in -solution is so great, that the vine-dressers in the neighbourhood make -themselves matches, by merely steeping linen rags in the waste water of -the baths.</p> - -<p>The use of the bath has been found very efficacious in the cure of all -kinds of cutaneous diseases, ulcers, wounds, and elephantiasis; and -taken inwardly, the water is considered by the faculty as extremely -beneficial in cases of gout,<a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a> asthma, scrofula, rheumatism, dyspepsia, -and, as the Tio said, in fact, in almost every disorder that human -nature is subject to.</p> - -<p>The season for taking the waters is from the beginning of June to the -end of September; and it is astonishing during those four months what -vast crowds of persons, of every grade and calling, are brought -together. Nobles, priests, peasants, and beggars—the gouty, -hypochondriac, lame, and blind—all flock from every part of the kingdom -to the famed Hedionda. It was ever a matter of surprise to me where such -a host can find accommodation.</p> - -<p>The same regimen is prescribed at this as at other watering places; -viz., plenty of the spring, moderate exercise, and abstemious diet; and -in this latter item, at least, the injunctions are as generally -disregarded at Manilba as at the Brunnens of Nassau: that is, -comparatively speaking, for it must be borne in mind that a German’s -daily food would support a Spaniard for a week.</p> - -<p>The principal bath is open to the public, and, being very large and -tolerably deep, is by far the pleasantest, when one can be sure of its -entire possession. Those which have been built by the company of -speculators are too small, though convenient in other respects. The -charge for the use of these is moderate enough, viz., one real and a -half each time of<a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a> bathing; which includes a trifling gratuity to <i>Tio -Juan</i>.</p> - -<p>The source from which the drinkers fill their goblets is open to all -comers, and any one may bottle and carry off the precious water <i>ad -libitum</i>. A considerable quantity is sent in stone jars to the -neighbouring towns; but Tio Juan maintained—and I believe not without -good reason—that it lost all its properties on the journey “<i>amen del -mal olor</i>.â€<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a></p> - -<p>The situation of the new village would have been more agreeable had it -been built somewhat higher up the side of the sierra, instead of on the -immediate bank of the rivulet, where it is excluded from the fine view -it might otherwise command, and is sheltered from every breath of air. -It is not, however, so sultry as might be expected, considering its -confined situation; for the mountain behind screens it from the sun’s -rays at an early hour after noon, and the opposite bank of the ravine, -by sloping down gradually to the stream, and being clothed to the -water’s edge with vines, fig, and other fruit-trees, throws back no -reflected heat upon the dwellings.</p> - -<p>The manner of life of the visiters of the <i>hedionda</i> is not less -different from that of the watering places of other countries, than the -place itself is from Cheltenham or Carlsbad. They<a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a> rise with the sun; -drink their first glass of water at the spring on their way to chapel; a -second glass, in returning from their devotions; and then take a -<i>paseito</i><a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> in the <i>huerta</i>: but not until after the third dose do -they venture on their usual breakfast of a cup of chocolate. The bath -and the toilette occupy the rest of the morning. Dinner is taken at one -or two o’clock; the <i>Siesta</i> follows, and before sunset another bath, -perhaps. The <i>Paseo</i> comes next—that is quite indispensable—and the -<i>Tertulia</i> concludes the arrangements for the day.</p> - -<p>This, at the baths, is a kind of public assembly held in the open air, -and generally in one of the vine-sheltered streets of the modern -village. A guitar, cards, dancing, and games of forfeit, are the various -resources of the <i>réunion</i>; which breaks up at an early hour.</p> - -<p><i>Tio Juan</i>, in his shirt-sleeves and slippers, is a constant attendant -at the <i>Tertulia</i>, usually looking on at the sports and pastimes with -becoming gravity, but occasionally taking a hand at <i>Malilla</i>,<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a> or -joining the noisy circle playing at <i>El Enfermo</i>;<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> in which, when the -usual question is asked, “What will <i>you</i> give the sick man?†he -invariably answers, “<i>El Agua—nada mas que el agua—que no hay cosa mas -sano en el<a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a> mundo</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> puffing away at his paper cigar all the while -with the most imperturbable gravity, and casting a side glance at me, as -much as to say—“not a word of our nightly <i>symposium</i>, if you please.â€</p> - -<p>The company on these occasions is, as may be supposed, of a very mixed -kind. Let it not be imagined, however, that because “<i>Señor Juan</i>†-presents himself with bare elbows, that it is altogether of a secondary -order—far from it—for such is the caprice of fashion, such the love of -change, that even the noblest of the land are ofttimes inmates of the -little inconvenient hovels that I have described; but <i>Tio Juan</i> is a -privileged person—every body consults him, every one makes him his or -her confidant. And so curiously is Spanish society constituted, that -though considered the proudest people in the world, yet, on occasions -like this, Spaniards lay aside the distinction of rank, and mix together -in the most unceremonious manner. Indeed, no people I have ever seen -treat their inferiors with greater respect than the Spanish Nobles. They -enter familiarly into conversation with the servants standing behind -their chair; and, strange as it may appear, this freedom is never taken -advantage of, nor are they less respected, nor worse served in -consequence.<a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a></p> - -<p>The custom of kneeling down in common at their places of public worship -may have a tendency to keep up this feeling, warning the rich and -powerful of the earth that, though placed temporarily above the peasant -in the world’s estimation, yet that he is their equal in the sight of -the Creator of all; an accountable being like themselves, and deserving -of the treatment of a human being.</p> - -<p>The Spanish nobles certainly find their reward in adopting such a line -of conduct, for they are served with extraordinary fidelity; and the -horrors which were perpetrated <i>through the instrumentality of -servants</i>, during the French revolution, is little to be apprehended in -this country; perhaps, indeed, this good understanding between master -and man has hitherto saved Spain from its reign of terror.</p> - -<p>The chapel of the bathing village is generally thronged with penitents; -for people become very devout when they have, or fancy they have, one -foot in the grave. The little edifice may be considered the repository -of the <i>archives</i> of <i>the Hedionda</i>, for countless are the legs, arms, -heads, and bodies, moulded in wax, or carved in wood, and telling of -wondrous cures, that have been offered at the shrine of Our Lady of <i>Los -Remedios</i>.</p> - -<p>Leaving the good Romanists at their devotions within the crowded chapel, -and <i>Tio Juan</i>,<a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a> with one knee and his pitcher of water on the ground, -and his staff in hand, offering a passing prayer behind the throng -collected outside the open door, we will devote the morning to a -scramble to the summit of the steep mountain that rises at the back of -the baths.</p> - -<p>The <i>Sierra de Utrera</i>, by which name this rugged ridge is -distinguished, is of very singular formation. Its eastern base (whence -the <i>hedionda</i> issues) is covered with a crumbling mass of schist, -disposed in laminæ, shelving downwards, at an angle of 25 or 30 degrees -with the horizon. This sloping bank reaches to about one third the -height of the mountain, when rude rocks of a most peculiar character -shoot up above its general surface, rising pyramidically, but assuming -most fantastic forms, and each pile consisting of a series of huge -blocks (sometimes fourteen or fifteen in number), resting loosely one -upon another, and seemingly so much off the centre of gravity as to lead -to the belief that a slight push would lay them prostrate.</p> - -<p>At first these detached pinnacles rise only to the height of fifteen or -twenty feet, but, on drawing near the crest of the ridge, they attain -nearly twice that elevation. The general surface of the mountain, above -which these piles of rocking stones rise, is rent by deep chasms, as if -the whole mass of rock had, at some distant<a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a> period, been shaken to its -very foundation by an earthquake. In these rents, soil has been -gradually collected, and vegetation been the consequence; but the -general character of the mountain is arid and sterile.</p> - -<p>The ascent becomes very difficult as one proceeds, and, in fact, it -requires some little agility to reach the crest of the singular ridge. -Its summit presents a very rough, though nearly horizontal surface, -varying in width from 300 to 400 yards; and, looking from its western -side, the spectator fancies himself elevated on the walls of some vast -castle, so precipitously does the rocky ledge fall in that direction, so -level and smiling is the cultivated country spread out but a couple of -hundred feet below him.</p> - -<p>This rocky plateau appears to have been covered, in former days, with -the same singularly formed pyramids that protrude from the eastern -acclivity of the mountain; but they have probably been hewn into mill -stones, as many of the rough blocks strewed about its surface are now in -process of becoming. The plateau extends nearly two miles in a parallel -direction to the rock of Gibraltar, that is, nearly due north and south -by compass; and, when on its summit, the ridge appears continuous; but, -on proceeding to examine the southern portion of the plateau, I found -myself suddenly on the<a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a> brink of a chasm, upwards of a hundred feet -deep, which, traversing the mountain from east to west, cuts it -completely in two. This cleft varies in width from 50 to 100 feet; and -in winter brings down a copious stream, being the drain of a -considerable extent of country on the western side of the ridge. It is -partially clothed with shrubs and wild olive-trees, and a rude pathway -leads down the dark dell to the <i>hedionda</i>, which issues from the base -of the mountain, about 200 yards to the north of the opening of the -chasm.</p> - -<p>This remarkable gap, though not distinguishable from the baths situated -immediately below it, is so well defined, and has so peculiar an -appearance at a distance, that it is an important landmark for the -coasting vessels.</p> - -<p>The southern portion of the Sierra is far less accessible than that -which has been described; in fact, access to its summit can be gained -only by means of a ramped road, which, piercing the rocky precipice on -its western side, has been made to facilitate the transport of the -millstones prepared there. In other respects, this part of the plateau -is of the same character as the other.</p> - -<p>Wonderful are the tales of fairies, devils, and evil spirits, told by -the goatherds and others who frequent this singular mountain; and <i>Tio -Juan</i>, who never would suffer himself to be<a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a> outdone in the marvellous, -told us that “<i>un Ingles</i>,†who, about two years before, had been on a -visit to the baths, had disappeared there in a most mysterious way. A -goatherd of his acquaintance had seen him descend into a cleft in search -of some herb, but out of it he had never returned. “<i>Se dicen</i>,†he -concluded, “<i>que era uno de esos Lores, de que hay tantos en -Inglaterra</i>;<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> but I can hardly believe, if he had possessed such -‘<i>montones de oro</i>’<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> as was represented, that he would have been -going about like a pedlar, with a basket slung to his back, picking up -all sorts of herbs, and drying them with great care every day when he -returned home, spreading them out between the leaves of a large book. -‘<i>A me mi parece</i>,’<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> that he was gathering them to make tea with; but -I know an herb which grows on that Sierra, which is worth all the -medicines<a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> in the world: ay! and in some cases it is yet quicker, -though not more effectual, in its cure, than even the waters of the -<i>hedionda</i>; and some day, <i>Don Carlos</i>, I will walk up and show you the -cleft wherein it grows.â€</p> - -<p>The <i>Tio’s</i> occupations were, however, too constant to allow of his -accompanying me in search<a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a> of this wonderful plant, and, consequently, -my curiosity concerning it was never gratified.</p> - -<p>The district of Manilba is celebrated for the productiveness of its -vineyards, and the undulated country between the baths and the southern -foot of the <i>Sierra Bermeja</i> is almost exclusively devoted to the -culture of the grape. That most esteemed is a large purple kind. It is -highly flavoured, and makes a strong-bodied and very palatable wine, -though, in nine cases out of ten, the wine is spoilt by some defect of -the skin in which it has been carried.</p> - -<p>The husks of the Manilba grape, after the juice has been expressed, -enjoy a reputation for the cure of rheumatism, scarcely less than that -of the sulphureous spring itself. The sufferer is immersed up to the -neck in a vat full of the fermenting skins, and, after remaining therein -a whole morning, comes forth as purple as a printer’s devil. I have met -with persons who declared they had received great benefit from this -vinous bath; but I question whether interment in hot sand (a mode of -treatment, by the way, which has been tried with great success) would -not have been found more efficacious, without subjecting the patient to -this unpleasant discoloration.</p> - -<p>Several interesting mornings’ excursions may be made from the baths. The -village of Manilba (about two miles distant) is situated on a<a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a> high, but -narrow ridge, that protrudes from the south-eastern extremity of the -Sierra de Utrera. It is a compactly built place, and commands fine -views: towards the mountains on one side, and over the Mediterranean on -the other. The population amounts to about 3000 souls, principally -vinedressers and husbandmen.</p> - -<p>On one occasion—having found all the lodging-houses at the <i>hedionda</i> -occupied, I established myself for a few days at the posada at Manilba, -where a singular adventure befel me. Mine host entered my room on the -evening of my arrival, and very mysteriously informed me, that a certain -person—a friend of his—a Spanish officer “<i>por fin</i>,†who had -distinguished himself greatly under the constitutional government, and -was a <i>caballero de toda confianza</i>,<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> wished very much to have the -honour of paying me a visit, if I were agreeable, which, hearing I was -alone, he thought it possible I might be; and, before I had time fully -to explain that I was quite tired from a long day’s shooting, and must -beg to be excused, the <i>Lismahago</i> himself walked in—as vulgar, -off-handed, free-and-easy a gentleman as I ever came across.</p> - -<p>Having expressed unbounded love for the English nation, and stated his -conviction—drawn from his intimate knowledge of the character<a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a> of -British officers—that they were, one and all, well disposed to assist -in the grand work of regenerating Spain, he proceeded to state, that the -“friends of liberty,†in various towns of that part of the Peninsula, -had entered into a plot to subvert the existing government of the -country, and having many friends in Gibraltar, wished, through the -medium of an officer of that garrison, to communicate with them; that, -understanding I was, &c. &c. &c.</p> - -<p>I had merely acknowledged that I comprehended what he was saying, by -bowing severally to the numerous panegyrics on liberty, and compliments -to myself and nation, with which he interlarded his discourse—for the -above is but the skimmed milk of his eloquent harangue; but, finding -that he had at length concluded, I expressed the deep regret I felt at -not being able to meet his friendly proposal in the way he wished, from -the circumstance of my time being fully occupied in preparing a -deep-laid plot against my own government—nothing less, in fact, than to -give up the important fortress of Gibraltar to the Emperor of Morocco, -until we had established a republic in England. When this grand project -was accomplished, I added, I should be quite at leisure, and would most -willingly enter into any treasonable designs against any other -government; but, at present, he must see it was quite out of the -question.<a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a></p> - -<p>My visiter gazed on me “with the eyes of astonishment,†but I kept my -countenance. He rose from his seat—I did the same.</p> - -<p>“Are you serious?†asked he.</p> - -<p>“Perfectly so,†I replied; “but, of course, I reckon on your maintaining -the strictest secrecy in the matter I have just communicated,†I added -earnestly.</p> - -<p>“You may rely in perfect confidence upon me.â€</p> - -<p>“Do you smoke? Pray accept of a Gibraltar cigar. I regret that I cannot -ask you to remain with me, but I have letters of the utmost importance -to write, which must be sent off by daybreak.†He accepted my proffered -cigar, begged I would command his services on all occasions, and walked -off.</p> - -<p>I made sure he was a government spy, and in a towering rage sent for the -innkeeper. He protested such was not the case, adding, “but, to confess -the truth,†he was a poor harmless fellow,—a reduced officer of the -constitutional army,—who was very fond of the English, not less so of -wine; talked a great deal of nonsense, which nobody minded; and hoped I -would take no notice of it.</p> - -<p>I reminded mine host, that he had said he was a “<i>distinguished -officer</i>,†and had called him “<i>his friend</i>."—“<i>Si, señor, es -verdad</i>;<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> but<a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a> the fact is, he followed me up stairs, and I knew he -was at the door, listening to what I might say.â€</p> - -<p>I very much doubted the truth of his asseverations, and my doubts were -confirmed by my never afterwards seeing the constitutional officer about -the premises; but, to prevent a repetition of such introductions, I -begged to be allowed the privilege of choosing my own associates, -telling him, indeed, that my further stay at his house would depend upon -it. I still, however, continued to look upon the fellow as a spy, until -the mad attempt made by Torrijos to bring about a revolution, not very -long afterwards, led me to think that my visiter’s overture might really -have been seriously intended.</p> - -<p>Manilba is distant about seven miles from Estepona. The first part of -the road thither lies through productive vineyards; the latter along the -sea-shore, on reaching which it falls into the road from Gibraltar to -Malaga.</p> - -<p>Not many years since Estepona was a mere fishing village, built under -the protection of one of the <i>casa fuertes</i> that guard the coast; but -the fort stands now in the midst of a thriving town, containing 6000 -inhabitants.</p> - -<p>The fish taken here finds a ready sale in the SerranÃa, whither it is -conveyed in a half-salted state, on the backs of mules or asses. The -<i>Sardina</i> frequents this coast in great numbers; it<a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a> is a delicious -fish, of the herring kind, but more delicately flavoured.</p> - -<p>The environs of Estepona are very fruitful; and oranges and lemons are -exported thence to a large amount—the greater portion to England. The -place is distant twenty-five miles from Gibraltar (by the road), and -sixteen from Marbella. To the latter the road is very good.</p> - -<p>A most delightful ride offers itself to return from hence to the baths -of Manilba, by way of Casares. The road, for the first few miles, keeps -under the deeply seamed and pine-clad side of the <i>Sierra Bermeja</i>, and -then, leaving the mountain-path to Gaucin (mentioned in a preceding -chapter) to the right, enters an intersected country, winding along the -edge of several deep ravines, shaded by groves of chesnut-trees, and -reaches Casares very unexpectedly; leaving a large convent, situated on -the side of a steep bank, on the left, just before entering the narrow, -rock-bound town.</p> - -<p>The road from Casares to the baths has already been described, but two -other routes offer themselves from that town to reach Manilba. The more -direct of these keeps the fissure in which the <i>hedionda</i> is situated on -the right; the other makes a wide circuit round the <i>Sierra de Utrera</i>, -and leaves the baths on the left. By the former the distance is five and -a half, by the latter seven miles.<a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A SHOOTING PARTY TO THE MOUNTAINS—OUR ITALIAN PIQUEUR, DAMIEN -BERRIO—SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS PREVIOUS LIFE—LOS BARRIOS—THE -BEAUTIFUL MAID, AND THE MAIDEN’S LEVELLING SIRE—ROAD TO -SANONA—PREPARATIONS AGAINST BANDITS—ARRIVAL AT THE -CASERIA—DESCRIPTION OF ITS OWNER AND ACCOMMODATIONS—FINE -SCENERY—A BATIDA.</p></div> - -<p>I<small>N</small> the wildest part of the mountainous belt that, stretching in a wide -semicircle round Gibraltar, cuts the rocky peninsula off, as it were, -from the rest of Spain, is situated the <i>CaserÃa de Sanona</i>; a lone -house, now dwindled down to a mere farm; but, as both its name implies, -and its appearance bespeaks, formerly a place of some consequence.</p> - -<p>It was brought to its present lowly state during the last war, when its -inhabitants were so reduced in number, as well as circumstances, that -hands and means are still equally wanting for the proper looking after, -and attending to,<a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a> the vast herds and extensive <i>dehesas</i><a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> and -forest-lands belonging to it. The consequence is, that the wolves and -wild boars, from having been so long permitted to roam about in -undisputed possession of the woods, have in their turn, from being the -persecuted, become the aggressors, and are now in the habit of making -nightly predatory visits to the cattle folds and plantations of the -<i>CaserÃa</i>, carrying off the farmer’s sheep and heifers, and destroying -his winter stock of vegetables, whenever, by any neglect or remissness -of the watch, an opportunity is afforded them.</p> - -<p>Besides the animals above mentioned, deer, and, in the winter, -woodcocks, find the unfrequented ravines in the vicinity of the -<i>CaserÃa</i> equally well suited to their secluded habits; and, tempted by -the promising account of the sport the place afforded, a party was -formed, consisting of three of my most intimate friends, myself, and a -piqueur, to proceed thither for a few days’ shooting.</p> - -<p>Sending forward a messenger to the CaserÃa, as well to go through the -form of asking its proprietor to “put us up,†during our proposed visit, -as to request him to have a sufficient number of beaters collected—on -which the quality of the sport mainly depends—we provided ourselves -with a week’s consumption of provisions<a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a> and ammunition, and, leaving -Gibraltar late in the afternoon, proceeded to Los Barrios; whence, we -could take an earlier departure on the following morning than from the -locked-up fortress.</p> - -<p>The <i>Piqueur</i> who usually accompanied us on these shooting excursions -was a personage of some celebrity in the Gibraltar <i>sporting world</i>, and -his name—Damien Berrio—will doubtless be familiar to such of my -readers as may have resided any time on “the rock.†By birth a -Piedmontese, a baker by profession, Damien’s bread—like that of many -persons in a more elevated walk of life—was not to his taste. At the -very mention of a <i>Batida</i>, he would leave oven, home, wife, and -children; shoulder his gun, fill his <i>alforjas</i>—for he was a provident -soul, and, though a baker, ever maintained that man could not live on -bread alone—borrow a horse, and, in half an hour, “be ready for a -start.â€</p> - -<p>Possessing a perfect knowledge of the country, a quick eye, an unerring -aim, and a nose that could wind an <i>olla</i> if within the circuit of a -Spanish league, Damien was, in many respects, a valuable acquisition on -a shooting party. And to the aforesaid qualifications, befitting him for -the <i>staff</i>, he added that of being an excellent <i>raconteur</i>. In this he -received much assistance from his personal appearance, which, like that<a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a> -of the inimitable Liston, passed off for humour that which, in reality, -was pure nature.</p> - -<p>His person was much above the common stature, erect, and well-built, but -his hands and feet were “prodigious.†His face—when the sun fell -directly upon it, so as to free it from the shadow of his enormous -nose—was intelligent, and bespoke infinite good nature, though marked, -nevertheless, with the lines of care and sorrow. His costume was that of -a French sportsman, except that he wore a high-crowned, weather-beaten -old hat, placed somewhat knowingly on one side of his head, and which, -of itself alone, marked him as “<i>a character</i>.â€</p> - -<p>To those who have not had the pleasure of his acquaintance, a <i>precis</i> -of his early history may not be unacceptable; those who already know it -will, I trust, pardon the short digression.</p> - -<p>Born on the sunny side of the Alps, some fifteen years before the -breaking out of the French revolution, Damien, at a very early age, was -called upon to defend his country against the aggression of its Gallic -neighbours. He was draughted accordingly to a regiment of grenadiers of -the Piedmontese army commanded by General Colli; and, in the short and -disgraceful campaign of 1796, was made prisoner with the brave but -unfortunate Provèra, at the Castle of Cosséria.<a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a></p> - -<p>On the formation of the Cisalpine republic soon afterwards, our -grenadier, released, as he fondly imagined, from the necessity of any -further military service, purposed returning to his family and regretted -agricultural pursuits; but, on applying for his discharge, he found that -he had quite misunderstood the meaning of the word <i>freedom</i>. “What!†-said the regenerator of his oppressed country; “what! return home like a -lazy drone, when so much still remains to be done! No, no, we cannot -part with you yet; we are about to give liberty to the rest of Italy; -you must march; can mankind be more beneficially or philanthropically -employed? <i>Allons! en avant! vive la liberté!</i>"—“And so,†said Damien, -“off we were marched, under the tail of the French eagle, to give -freedom to the <i>Facchini of Venice</i>, and <i>Lazzaroni</i> of Naples; and to -spoil and pillage all that lay in our way.â€</p> - -<p>This marauding life was ill-suited either to our hero’s taste or habits, -and accordingly he embraced the first favourable opportunity of quitting -the service of the “Regenerator of Italy.†How he managed to effect his -liberation I never could find out, it being one of the very few subjects -on which Damien was close; but I suspect—much as he liked -shooting—that the love of the smell of gunpowder was not a <i>natural</i> -taste of his. Be that as it may, he made his way to Spain—took to -himself a Spanish wife—and settled at Gibraltar.<a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a></p> - -<p>His language, like the dress of a harlequin, was made up of -scraps,—French, Spanish, English, and Italian, joined in angularly and -without method or regularity; and all so badly spoken, as to render it -impossible to say which amongst them was the mother-tongue. -Nevertheless, Damien got on well with every body, and his <i>bonhommie</i> -and good nature rendered him a universal favourite. In other respects, -however, he was not so favoured a child of fortune; for, though no idle -seeker of adventures, in fact, he was wont to go a great way to avoid -them, yet, as ill luck would have it, adventures very frequently came -across him. And it generally happened, as with the famed Manchegan -knight, that Damien, in his various encounters, came off “second best.†-That is to say, they usually ended in his finding himself <i>minus</i> his -gun, or his horse, or both, and, perhaps, his <i>alforjas</i> to boot.</p> - -<p>By his own account, these untoward events invariably happened through -some want of proper precaution—either whilst he was indulging in a -<i>Siesta</i>, or taking a snack by the side of some cool stream, his trusty -gun being out of his immediate reach, or when committing some other -imprudent act. So it was, however, and these “<i>petits malheurs</i>,†as he -was in the habit of calling them, had generated a more than ordinary -dread of robbers, which, in its turn, had<a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a> produced in him a disposition -to be gregarious whenever he passed the bounds of the English garrison.</p> - -<p>In travelling through the mountains, we always knew when we were -approaching what Damien considered a likely spot for an ambuscade, by -his striking up a martial air that he told us had been the favourite -march of the regiment of grenadiers in which he had served; giving us -from time to time a hint that it would be well to be upon the look-out -by observing to the person next him, “<i>Hay muchos ladrones par ici, mon -Capitaine—el año pasado (maledetti sian’ ces gueux d’Espagnols!) on m’a -volé une bonne escopète en este maldito callejon</i><a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a>—<i>Il faut être -preparé, Messieurs!</i>†and then the Piedmontese march was resumed with -increased energy, growing <i>piu marcato e risoluto</i>, as the banks of the -gorge became higher and the underwood thicker.</p> - -<p>On regaining the open country, the air was changed by a playful -<i>Cadenza</i> to one of a more lively character, and, after a <i>Da Capo</i>, -generally ended with “<i>n’ayez pas peur, Messieurs—questi birbánti -Spagniuoli</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> (he seldom abused them in their native language, lest -he should be over-heard)<a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a> “<i>n’osent pas nous attaquer à forces égales</i>.â€</p> - -<p>Poor <i>Damien!</i> many is the good laugh your fears have unconsciously -occasioned us—many the joking bet the tuning up of the Piedmontese -grenadiers’ march has given rise to—and every note of which is at this -moment as perfect in my recollection as when we traversed together the -wild <i>puertas de Sanona</i>.</p> - -<p>The town of Los Barrios, where we took up our quarters for the night, is -twelve miles from Gibraltar. It is a small, open town, containing some -2000 souls, and, though founded only since the capture of Gibraltar, -already shows sad symptoms of decay.</p> - -<p>Being within a ride of the British garrison, it is frequently visited by -its inmates, and two rival <i>posadas</i> dispute the honour of possessing -the <i>golden fleece</i>. One of them, for a time, carried all before it, in -consequence of the beauty of the <i>Donzella de la Casa</i>:<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> but beauty -<i>will</i> fade, however unwillingly—as in this case—its possessor admits -that it does; and the “fair maid of Los Barrios,†who, when I first saw -her, was really a very beautiful girl, had, at the period of my last -visit, become a coarse, fat, middle-aged, <i>young woman</i>; and, as the -charges for looking at her remained the same<a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a> as ever, I proved a -recreant knight, and went to the rival posada.</p> - -<p>Nothing could well be more ludicrous than the contrast, in dress and -appearance, between the beauty’s mother and the beauty herself—unless, -indeed, the visiter arrived very unexpectedly,—the one being dirty, -slatternly, and clothed in old rags; the other, <i>muy bien peynado</i>,<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> -and pomatumed, and decked in all the finery and ornaments presented by -her numerous admirers. The old lady was excessively proud of her -daughter’s beauty and wardrobe; and in showing her off always reminded -me of the <i>sin-par</i><a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> Panza’s mode of speaking of his <i>Sanchita, una -muchacha a quien crio para condesa</i>.<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a></p> - -<p>The father of “the beauty†was a notorious <i>liberal</i>; and, having -outraged the laws of his country on various occasions, was executed at -Seville some years since. He was, I think, the most thorough-going -leveller I ever met with—one who would not have sheathed the knife as -long as any individual better off than himself remained in the country. -Boasting to me on one occasion of the great deeds he had done during the -war, he said that in one night he had despatched eleven French soldiers, -who were quartered in his house. He effected his<a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a> purpose by making them -drunk, having previously drugged their wine to produce sleep. He put -them to death with his knife as they lay senseless on the floor, carried -them out into the yard, and threw them into a pit. The monster who could -boast of such a crime would commit it if he had the opportunity; and -though I suspect the number of his victims was exaggerated, yet I have -no doubt whatever that he did not make himself out to be a murderer -without some good grounds; and, I confess, it gave me very little regret -to hear, a year or two afterwards, that he had perished on the scaffold.</p> - -<p>The road to Sanona enters the mountains soon after leaving Los Barrios, -ascending, for the first few miles, along the bank of the river -Palmones. The scenery is very fine; huge masses of scarped and jagged -sierras are tossed about in the most fantastic irregularity, whilst the -valleys between are clad with a luxuriance of foliage that can be met -with only in this prolific climate.</p> - -<p>Looking back, the silvery Palmones may be traced winding between its -wooded banks towards the bay of Gibraltar, which, viewed in this -direction, has the appearance of a vast lake; the African shore, from -Ape’s Hill to the promontory of Ceuta, seeming to complete its enclosure -to the south.</p> - -<p>After proceeding some miles further, the road<a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a> becomes a mere -mule-track, and the country very wild and barren. The Piedmontese march -had been gradually <i>crescendo</i> ever since leaving the cultivated valley -of the Palmones, and Damien, as he rode on before us, had already given -sundry yet more palpable intimations of impending danger,—firstly, by -examining the priming of his old flint gun,—secondly, by trying whether -the balls were rammed home,—and, lastly, by producing a brandy bottle -from his capacious pocket; when, arrived at the foot of a peculiarly -dreary and rocky pass, pulling up and dismounting from his horse, under -pretence of tightening the girths of his saddle, he exclaimed, “<i>à -present, Messieurs, es preciso cargar—ces lâches d’Espagnols viennent -toujours a l’improviste, et se non siamo apparecchiati sarémo tutti -inretati come tanti uccellini.—Somos todos muy bien armados con -escopetas à dos cañones; y con juicio, no tendremos que temer—ma ... -bisogna giudizio!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> and in accordance with his wishes thus clearly -expressed, we all loaded with ball, and, pushing on an advanced guard, -boldly entered the rugged defile, joining our voices in grand chorus in -the inspiriting grenadier’s march.<a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a></p> - -<p>On emerging from this rocky gorge, we entered a peculiarly wild and -secluded valley, which, so completely is it shut out from all view, one -might imagine, but for the narrow path under our feet, had never been -trodden by man. The road winds round the heads of numerous dark ravines, -crosses numberless torrents, that rush foaming from the impending sierra -on the left, and is screened effectually from the sun by an impenetrable -covering of oak and other forest-trees, festooned with woodbine, -eglantine, and wild vines; whilst the valley below is clothed, from end -to end, with cistus, broom, wild lavender, thyme, and other indigenous -aromatic shrubs.</p> - -<p>At the end of about three leagues, we reached the head of the valley, -where one of the principal sources of the Palmones takes its rise. The -neck of land that divides this stream from the affluents to the Celemin, -is the pass of Sanona. From hence the <i>CaserÃa</i> is visible, and a rapid -descent of about a mile brought us to the door of the lone mansion.</p> - -<p>Our arrival was announced to the inmates by a general salute from the -countless dogs that invariably form part of a Spanish farmer’s -establishment. The horrid din soon brought forth the equally -shaggy-coated bipeds, headed by a venerable-looking old man, who, with a -slight recognition of Damien, stepped to the front, and,<a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a> in a very -dignified manner, announcing himself as the owner of the <i>CaserÃa</i>, -begged we would alight, and consider his house our own.</p> - -<p>“My habitation is but a poor one, <i>Caballeros</i>; the accommodation it -affords yet poorer. I wish for your sakes I had better to offer; but of -this you may rest assured, that every thing <i>Luis de Castro</i> possesses, -will ever be at the service of the brave nation who generously aided, -and by whose side I have fought, to maintain the independence of my -country."—“<i>Bravo, Don Luis!</i>†ejaculated Damien, which saved us the -trouble of making a suitable speech in return.</p> - -<p>We were much pleased with our host’s appearance: indeed the shape of his -cranium was itself sufficient to secure him the good opinion of all -disciples of Spurzheim; but this feeling of gratification was by no -means called forth by his <i>CaserÃa</i>, from the outward inspection of -which we judged the organ of accommodation to be wofully deficient.</p> - -<p>The house and out-buildings formerly occupied a considerable extent of -ground, but at the present day they are reduced to three sides of a -small square, of which the centre building contains the dwelling -apartments of the family, and the wings afford cover to the retainers, -cattle, and farming implements. A stout wall completes the enclosure on -the fourth side,<a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a> wherein a wide folding gate affords the only means of -external communication.</p> - -<p>The <i>CaserÃa</i> has long been possessed by the family of its present -occupant, but, losing something of its importance at each succeeding -generation, has dwindled down to its present insignificant condition. -Don Luis strives hard, nevertheless, to keep up the family dignity of -the De Castros, though joining with patriarchal simplicity in all the -services, occupations, and pastimes, of his dependents.</p> - -<p>The portion of the house reserved for himself and family consists but of -two rooms on the ground-floor. The outer and larger of these serves the -double purpose of a kitchen and refectory; the other is appropriated to -the multifarious offices of a chapel, dormitory, henroost, and granary. -In this inner room we were duly installed,—the lady de Castro, and -other members of the family, removing into a neighbouring <i>choza</i> during -our stay: and a sheet having been drawn over the Virgin and child, the -cocks and hens driven from the rafters, and the Indian corn swept up -into a corner, we found ourselves more <i>snugly</i> lodged than outward -appearances had led us to expect.</p> - -<p>Leaving our friend Damien to make what arrangements he pleased as to -dinner—a discretional power that always afforded him infinite -gratification—we proceeded to examine<a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a> the “location,†with a view of -obtaining some notion of the country which was to be the scene of our -next day’s sporting operations.</p> - -<p>The situation of the <i>CaserÃa</i> is singularly romantic; to the north it -is backed by a richly wooded slope, above which, at the distance of -about half a mile, a rocky ledge of sierra rises perpendicularly several -hundred feet, its dark outline serving as a fine relief to the rich and -varied green tints of the forest. In the opposite direction, the house -commands a view over a wide and partially wooded valley, along the bed -of which the eye occasionally catches a glimpse of a sparkling stream, -that is collected from the various dark ravines which break the lofty -mountain-ridges on either side. A wooded range, steep, but of somewhat -less elevation than the other mountains that the eye embraces, appears -to close the mouth of this valley; but, winding round its foot to the -right, the stream gains a narrow outlet to the extensive plain of Vejer, -and empties itself into the <i>Laguna de la Janda</i>—a portion of which may -be seen; and over this intermediate range rise, in the distance, the -peaked summits of the <i>Sierra de la Plata</i>, whose southern base is -washed by the Atlantic.</p> - -<p>The beauty of the scenery, heightened by the broad shadows cast upon the -mountains, and the varied tints that ever attend upon a setting<a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a> sun in -this Elysian atmosphere, had tempted us to continue roaming about, -selecting the most favourable points of view, without once thinking of -our evening meal; and when, at length, the sun disappeared behind the -mountains, we found we had, unconsciously, wandered some considerable -distance from the <i>CaserÃa</i>. We forthwith bent our steps homewards, and, -on drawing near the house, were not a little amused at hearing Damien’s -stentorian halloos to draw our attention, which were sent back to him in -echoes from all parts of the <i>SerranÃa</i>. He was right glad to see us, -though vexed at our extreme imprudence in wandering about the woods -without an <i>escopeta</i>, or defensive weapon of any sort amongst us.</p> - -<p>“<i>Messieurs, quand vous connoitrez ces gens çi aussi bien que moi——!</i>â€</p> - -<p>We referred to Don Luis (who had come out with the intention of -proceeding in search of us), whether there were any <i>mala gente</i> in the -neighbourhood. A faint smile played about the old man’s mouth as he -looked towards Damien, as if guessing the source from which our -interrogation had sprung, and, then waving his right hand to and fro, -with the forefinger extended upwards, he replied, “<i>Por aqui Caballeros -no hay mala gente alguna; esa Canalla conoce demasiado quien es Luis de -Castro!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a></p> - -<p><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a></p> - -<p>On entering the house, we found a large party assembled round the -charcoal fire, preparing to take their evening <i>gazpacho</i><a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> -<i>caliente</i>; and, hot as had been the day, we gladly joined the circle, -until our own more substantial supper should be announced. The group -consisted of the wife, son, and daughter-in-law of our host, and several -of his friends, who, living at a distance, had come overnight, to be -ready to take part in the <i>batida</i> on the following morning.</p> - -<p>A <i>batida</i> bears so strong a resemblance to the same sort of thing -common in Germany, and indeed in some parts of Scotland, that a very -detailed account of one would be uninteresting to most of my readers. We -turned out at daybreak, and, recruited by the neighbouring peasantry, -found that we mustered twenty-three guns, and dogs innumerable, mostly -of a kind called by the Spaniards <i>podencos</i>, for which the most -appropriate term in our language is lurcher; though that does not -altogether express the strong-made, wiry-haired dog used by the -Spaniards on these occasions.</p> - -<p>As the <i>camas</i><a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> about Sanona are very wide, and require a number of -guns to line them, only eleven of the men could be spared for beaters. -These were placed under the direction of Alonzo, our host’s son, whilst -Don Luis himself took command of the sportsmen in the quality<a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a> of -<i>capitan</i>; and his first order was to prohibit all squibbing off of -guns, by which the game might be disturbed.</p> - -<p>The two parties, on leaving the house, took different directions. Our’s, -after proceeding about a mile, was halted, and enjoined to form in rank -entire, and keep perfectly silent. We then ascended a steep, thickly -coppiced hill, and were placed in position along its crest, at intervals -of about a hundred yards, with directions to watch the openings through -the underwood in our front—to screen ourselves from observation as well -as we could—not to stir from the spot until the signal was made to -retire—and to observe carefully the position of our fellow sportsmen on -either side, to prevent accidents.</p> - -<p>We were much amused at the manner in which Don Luis—to whom we were all -perfect strangers—selected us to occupy the different approaches to the -position. Scanning us over from right to left, and from head to foot, he -seemed to pick and choose his men as if perfectly aware of the peculiar -qualities each possessed, befitting him for the situation in which he -purposed placing him; and, beckoning the one selected out of the rank, -without uttering a word he led him to the assigned post, pointed out the -various openings in the underwood, and gave his final instructions in a -low whisper.<a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a></p> - -<p>On leaving me he pointed to a narrow passage between two huge blocks of -rock, and in a low voice said “<i>Lobo</i>;â€<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> which, I must confess, made -me look about for a tree, as a secure position to fall back upon, in the -event of my fire failing to bring the expected visiter to the ground.</p> - -<p>The position we occupied had a deep ravine in front, a wide valley on -one flank, and a precipitous wall of rock on the other; but, as the -event proved, it was far too extended. Thus posted, we remained for a -considerable time, and I began to think very meanly of the sport, -especially as I did not much like to withdraw my eyes from the rocky -pass where the wolf was to be looked for; but at length the distant -shouts of the beaters resounded through the mountains, and a few minutes -after, the faint but true-toned yelp of one of the hounds put me quite -on the <i>qui vive</i>; and when, in a few seconds, other dogs gave tongue, -and several shots were fired by the beaters (who are furnished with -blank cartridge), giving the assurance that game had been sprung, a -feeling of excitement was produced, that can, I think, hardly be -equalled by any other description of sport.</p> - -<p>The first gun from our own party almost induced me to rush forward and -break the line;<a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a> but, just at the moment, a rustling in the underwood -drew my attention, and, looking up, I saw a fine buck “at gaze,†as the -heralds say, about thirty yards off, and exactly in the direction of the -spot where I had seen my friend G—— posted.</p> - -<p>The animal, with ears erect, was listening, in evident alarm, to the -barking of the dogs; yet, from the shot just fired in his front, -scarcely knowing on which side danger was most imminent. I was so -screened by the underwood that he did not perceive me, and I could have -shot him with the greatest ease—that is to say, had my nervous system -been in proper trim,—but that the fear of killing my neighbour withheld -me; so there I stood, with my gun at the first motion of the present, -and there stood the deer, in just as great a <i>quandary</i>.</p> - -<p>At length, losing all patience, I hallooed to my neighbour by name, -hoping by his reply to learn whereabouts he was (for that he had moved -from his post was evident), and, if possible, get a shot at the deer as -he turned back, which I doubted not he would do. But, alas! my call -produced no response, and the fine animal bounded forward, breaking -through our line, and rendering it too hazardous for me to salute him -with both barrels, as I had murderously projected.</p> - -<p>Soon after the horn sounded for our reassembly.<a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a> The <i>cama</i><a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a> had -been very unsuccessful. One deer only, besides that which visited me, -had been driven through our line; the rest of the herd, and several wild -boars, turned our position by its right, which was too extensive for the -small number of guns. One of the Spaniards had shot a fox, which was all -we had to show; and his companions shook their heads, considering it a -bad omen, and that it was, indeed, likely to turn out “<i>una dia de -zorras</i>.â€<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a></p> - -<p>On my relating the tantalizing dilemma in which I had been placed, old -<i>Luis</i>, who felt somewhat sore at the signal failure of his generalship, -declared we should have no sport if I stood upon such ceremony; adding, -with much energy of manner, and addressing himself to the assembled -party, “As soon as ever you see your game, <i>carajo! candela!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a>—a -speech that reminded us forcibly of Suwarrow’s reply to his Austrian -coadjutor, when urging the prudence of a <i>reconnoissance</i> before -undertaking some delicate operation, viz.—“<i>Poussez en avant—chargez à -la bayonette—voilà mes reconnoissances.</i>â€</p> - -<p>The beaters were now directed to make a<a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a> “wide cast,†and, if possible, -head the game that had escaped us, whilst we moved off to a fresh -position, about half a mile in rear, and perpendicular to the former. -This plan was pretty successful: we killed a wolf and two deer, but Don -Luis was by no means satisfied.</p> - -<p>It was now noon-day, and, ascending a rocky ledge that projects into the -wide valley, already described as lying in front of the house, we -obtained a splendid panoramic view of the whole wooded district of -Sanona. We found, on gaining the summit, that the provident Damien had -directed a <i>muchacho</i> to meet us there, with a mule-load of provender, -which he was pleased to call “<i>un petit peu de rafraichissement</i>.†We -were quite prepared to acknowledge our sense of his foresight and -discretion in the most unequivocal manner; for the exertion of climbing -the successive mountain-ridges, and forcing our way through the -underwood, as well as the excitement of the sport, had given a keen edge -to our appetites.</p> - -<p>Whilst seated in a convivial circle, smoking our cigars at the -conclusion of our repast, we observed that poor Alonzo—who, though a -stoutly built, was a very sickly-looking man—appeared to be quite -exhausted from the heat and fatigue of the day, and that poor old Luis -looked from time to time on his son, as he lay full-length upon the -ground, with a heart-rending expression of grief.<a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a></p> - -<p>One of our party remarked to him, that Alonzo did not appear to be well, -and suggested that he had better not exert himself further. Don Luis -shook his head. “Alas! señor!†he replied, “my poor Alonzo is as well as -ever he again will be. But do not suppose that he is a degenerate scion -of the De Castros; nor even that I regret seeing him in his present -state. No: much as I once wished to see the family name handed down to -another generation—of which there is now no chance—I would rather, -much rather, that he should have sacrificed his health—his life -indeed—for his country, than that any vain wish of mine should be -gratified.â€</p> - -<p>Our curiosity excited by the words, and yet more by the manner of the -old man, we ventured, after some little preamble, to ask what had -occasioned the change in his son that his speech implied.</p> - -<p>“It is a long story, <i>caballeros</i>,†he answered; “but, as the sun is now -too powerful to allow us to resume our sport, I will, if you feel -disposed to listen to a garrulous old man, relate the circumstances that -led to my son’s being reduced to the lamentable state in which you see -him.†We contracted the circle round Don Luis, the Spaniards, -apparently, quite as intent on hearing the thrice-told tale as -ourselves; and Damien, though still busily occupied at<a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a> his -“<i>rafraichissement</i>,†also lending an attentive ear.</p> - -<p>The fine old man was seated on a rock, elevated somewhat above the rest -of the party, holding in his right hand his uncouth-looking -fowling-piece, whilst the other rested on the head of a favourite dog, -that came, seemingly, to beg his master to remonstrate with Damien for -using his teeth to tear off the little flesh that remained on a -ham-bone.</p> - -<p>Don Luis, after patting the impatient favourite on the head and bidding -him lie down, thus began his story.<a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.<br /><br /> -<small>LUIS DE CASTRO.</small></h2> - -<p class="c">“<i>Tiene este caso un no sé que de sombra de adventura de -Caballeria.</i>"—<span class="smcap">Don Quijote.</span></p> - -<p>I need not tell enlightened Englishmen—commenced Don Luis—that the -name I bear is no common one. The CaserÃa which you there see, and all -the shady glens we here look down upon, were granted to the renowned De -Castro, whose valour so materially aided the Catholic kings, of blessed -memory, in the pious work of extirpating the vile followers of the -Arabian Impostor from the soil of Spain; and the patrimony thus acquired -by my ancestor’s sword has been handed down from generation to -generation to me,—too likely, alas! to be the last of the race to -inherit it.</p> - -<p>I married early in life, and was blessed with several children. Alonzo, -the first-born, was the only one permitted to reach maturity,—but<a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a> I -repine not. They were all healthy, and every thing a parent could wish. -Years rolled on unmarked by any events of importance. Our days were -passed in attending to our herds; our evenings, in singing and dancing -to the notes of the wild guitar. Our festivals were devoted to the -exhilarating sport we have this morning been following; nor did we, -amidst our happiness, neglect to offer up our thanks to the Omnipotent -Deity, who,—through the propitiating influence of our patron -saints—was pleased to pour his blessings upon us.</p> - -<p>But a storm arose, which, for a time, shook our happy country to its -foundation. Spain became the object of a vile tyrant’s insatiable -ambition. The perfidious Corsican, under the specious plea of -friendship, marched his licentious legions into our devoted country: and -having, by shameless deceit, first possessed himself of all our -strongholds, threw off the mask, and treated us as a conquered nation.</p> - -<p>This favoured province was, for some considerable time saved from the -desolation that wasted the rest of Spain, by the heroism of one of her -sons:—the brave Castaños hastened to place himself at the head of the -national troops, and in the defiles of the Sierra Morena, captured a -whole French army. But jealousy and intrigue—the greatest enemies our -country had to contend against—caused his services to be<a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a> requited with -ingratitude. Another French army advanced, but we had not another -Castaños to oppose it. The enemy forced the barriers with which nature -and art had defended the province, and, like a swarm of locusts, spread -over and consumed the rich produce of its fertile fields.</p> - -<p>The mountaineers of Ronda and Granada, engaged in the vile contraband -trade which the disorganized state of the country favoured, were slow to -take up arms against the invaders, but “<i>Io y mi gente</i>†(I and my -people) were early in the field, harassing their parties conveying -supplies to the siege of Cadiz, as well as protecting the surrounding -country from their predatory visits; and our secluded <i>CaserÃa</i> afforded -a secure retreat to the inhabitants of the plain, when forced to abandon -their hearths.</p> - -<p>I will not take up your time with the account of the various encounters -we had with the enemy—they are well known throughout the SerranÃa—but -will confine my narrative to what more particularly concerns my son.</p> - -<p>On one occasion, fortune presented him with an opportunity of saving a -party of the king’s troops, who had got entangled in the intricacies of -the SerranÃa; his knowledge of the country having enabled him to lead -them clear of their pursuers, and bring them safely to the <i>CaserÃa</i>.</p> - -<p>Disappointed of the prey they had so confidently<a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a> calculated upon, and -uneasy at a body of disciplined troops being added to our <i>guerilla</i>, -and established so close to them, the enemy determined on sending a -large force to root us out of our fastness. We, on our parts, hoping -that the French were unconscious of the place where the troops had found -a refuge, were meditating an attack upon their post of Alcalà , when the -storm burst suddenly upon our heads, and, but for the devotedness and -presence of mind of my gallant son, would have involved us all in one -common destruction.</p> - -<p>Alonzo had gone off to reconnoitre in the direction of Tarifa, a rumour -having reached us that the enemy had invested that place; and we were -anxiously awaiting his return to decide upon our plans, when, soon after -nightfall, a lad belonging to the <i>Venta de Tabilla</i> arrived at the -<i>CaserÃa</i> on my son’s horse, and in hurried words, informed me that a -large body of French troops was advancing upon the house.</p> - -<p>The enemy had forced this lad,—who alone had been left in charge of the -<i>Venta</i>,—to be their guide, and he had already conducted them across -the swamps at the head of the <i>Laguna de la Janda</i>, and was within a -hundred yards of the road leading from Tarifa to Casa Vieja—by keeping -along which to the left, he purposed gaining the shortest road into our -sequestered valley—when Alonzo crossed the path immediately in front of -them.<a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a></p> - -<p>From what we learnt afterwards it appeared, that he had been for some -time watching the enemy’s movements, and, guessing from the direction -they had finally taken, whither they were bound, had thus purposely -thrown himself in their way; resolved—cut off as he found himself from -the shortest road to the <i>CaserÃa</i>—to take this hazardous step to save -us from a surprise.</p> - -<p>On being questioned as to his knowledge of the country, he at once -offered to guide them to the <i>CaserÃa</i>. “This is your way,†he said, -pointing in the direction, whence he had just come, “but yonder is my -house,†motioning with his head towards the <i>Cortijo de le las Habas</i>; -which, though about half a mile off, was yet visible in the dusk; “I -will send my jaded horse home by the boy, and accompany you on foot.â€</p> - -<p>The commanding officer, to whom this was addressed, made no objection; -in fact, he probably thought that their guide would be more in their -power without his horse.</p> - -<p>Alonzo gave his beast to the lad, saying significantly, “<i>Juanillo</i>, -tell my father I have fallen in with some friends and shall not be at -home for some little time; be quick; make your way back to the venta -without delay, as soon as you have delivered my message; and, as you -value your life,—no babbling.â€</p> - -<p>My son then turned off to the right, taking<a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a> the best but far the most -circuitous route into the valley of Sanona, whilst <i>Juanillo</i>, putting -his horse into a canter, proceeded in the direction of the <i>Cortijo de -las Habas</i>, but, ere reaching it, struck into the difficult pass you see -below there, whence a rude foot-path leads direct to the <i>CaserÃa</i>, and -by which he had intended to conduct the enemy.</p> - -<p>It seemed to us—what indeed proved to be the case—that my son’s -message was intended to hint to us the necessity for flight, and -<i>Juanillo’s</i> account of the number of the enemy, would fully have -warranted our avoiding an encounter; but, thinking Alonzo’s life would -surely pay the forfeit of our escape, we determined to anticipate their -attack and give him a chance of saving himself.</p> - -<p>Prudence suggested the propriety of sending away our women and children. -Mounting them, therefore, on <i>borricos</i>, we hurried them off by the -mountain path to the <i>Casa de Castañas</i>, or <i>de las Navas</i>, as it is -otherwise called, from the name of its proprietor—a solitary house, -situated in a wooded valley, several miles to the north of Sanona.</p> - -<p>The women had scarcely left the <i>CaserÃa</i>, ere we heard the distant -tramp of horses in the valley below. Leaving a part of the soldiers to -defend the house, I led the rest, and my own people, out as silently as -possible, and posted<a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a> them on the upper side of the path by which the -French were advancing. The enemy halted directly under the muzzles of -our guns, and a corporal and two dragoons were sent on to the house to -ask for a night’s lodging.</p> - -<p>Nothing could be more favourable than the opportunity now presented for -attacking them, but I hesitated to give the word until I had discovered -my son, anxious as well to give him a chance of escape, as to save him -from our own fire. At last I recognised him: he was standing at the side -of the commander of the party, who, with a pistol in his hand, was -questioning him in a low tone of voice.</p> - -<p>The corporal now thundered at the gate of the <i>CaserÃa</i>. “<i>Quien es?</i>†-demanded the soldiers from within. I listened to no more; for, observing -that the commander’s attention was for the moment attracted to the -proceedings of his advanced guard, and that Alonzo, in consequence, was -comparatively out of his reach, “<i>Candela!</i>†I cried out to my people, -directing, at the same time, my own unerring rifle at the head of the -French captain.</p> - -<p>Twenty guns answered to the word. The commander of the enemy fell -headlong to the earth; his horse sprung violently off the ground, -reared, staggered, and fell back; a dozen Frenchmen bit the dust; the -rest turned and fled, ere we could reload our pieces.<a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a></p> - -<p>I pressed forward to embrace my brave son, but saw him not. I called him -by name, but a faint groan was the only reply I received. I turned in -the direction of the sound, and found the Frenchman’s horse, struggling -in the agonies of death, upon the bleeding body of my Alonzo. He had -been wounded in the breast by the Frenchman’s pistol, the trigger of -which had, apparently, been pressed in the convulsive movement -occasioned by his death-wound. The horse had been shot by one of our -men, had fallen upon Alonzo, and broken several of his ribs. We conveyed -him to the house, without a hope of his recovery.</p> - -<p>In the excess of my grief, I thought not of sending after the women. -Alonzo was the first to bring me to a sense of my remissness, by -enquiring for his wife and child. I expressed my joy at hearing him -speak, for he had lain many hours speechless. He pressed my hand, and -added, “Father, I wish to see them once again before I die—to have a -mother’s blessing also—for I feel my end approaching.â€</p> - -<p>I instantly despatched four of my people to the <i>Casa de Castañas</i> to -escort them back, for I recollected that the three Frenchmen who had -been sent forward to demand admission to the house, had effected their -escape, and must be, wandering about the mountains.</p> - -<p>The sun had risen some hours, and yet no<a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a> tidings reached us of them. I -began to feel very uneasy. A terrible presentiment disturbed me. I went -to the iron cross that stands on the mound in front of our house, whence -a view is obtained of the pass leading to <i>Las Navas</i>. I heard a wild -scream, that pierced my very soul, and the moment after, caught a -glimpse of a female figure, hastening with mad speed down the rocky path -leading to the <i>CaserÃa</i>. It was my daughter-in-law, Teresa!</p> - -<p>“See,†she exclaimed, with frantic exultation, showing me her hands -stained with blood, “see—I killed him! my knife pierced the heart of -the murderer of my child! I killed the vile Frenchman! The wife of a De -Castro ever carries a knife to avenge her wrongs—to defend her honour!â€</p> - -<p>That some terrible catastrophe had happened was too evident, but from -the unhappy maniac it was impossible to gather any thing definite.</p> - -<p>I mounted my horse, and rode with the speed of desperation towards the -<i>Casa de Castañas</i>, but had not proceeded far ere I met my people -returning, bearing my wife on a litter, and accompanied by two only of -the women who had accompanied her, mounted on <i>borricos</i>.</p> - -<p>“Dead?†I asked. It was the only word I could utter.</p> - -<p>“No, Luis,†replied one of my faithful followers,<a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a> “not dead, and, we -hope, not even seriously hurt; but evil has befallen your house—your -three young children and your grandson are lost to you for ever.â€</p> - -<p>“Lost! murdered? This is, indeed, a heavy blow, a severe trial. Perhaps -I am now childless;—God’s will be done.â€</p> - -<p>“Proceed gently to the <i>CaserÃa</i> with your burthen; I will hasten -forward, and send assistance, and such cordials as may be required to -restore my Ana.â€</p> - -<p>On my return I was surprised to see Alonzo sitting up, and his wife at -his bedside. I cannot describe the joy of that moment; but there was a -fearful expression of determination in my son’s contracted brows, that -almost led me to fear for his mind. He turned to me for explanation, but -as yet I could give him none. The party shortly arrived, however, and -the women gave us a full account of the overwhelming disaster that had -befallen us.</p> - -<p>On leaving the <i>CaserÃa</i> they had proceeded with such speed as the -darkness of the night permitted, towards the <i>Casa de Castañas</i>, and had -reached within a quarter of a league of the house, when the trampling of -horses behind them, spread the greatest alarm amongst these defenceless -females. It was clear that those who were in pursuit could not be their -friends, otherwise they would call to them to return;<a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a> and concluding -therefore, that the enemy had prevailed at the <i>CaserÃa</i>, naturally -considered their danger imminent.</p> - -<p>My wife and daughter-in-law, with their children, and three of the -women, being well mounted, pressed forward to the solitary house for -shelter; the others, finding the Frenchmen—whom they could now hear -conversing—gaining rapidly upon them, with more good fortune took to -the woods; and, as we eventually learnt, reached Los Barrios in safety.</p> - -<p>On arriving at the <i>Casa de Castañas</i>, it was found to be totally -abandoned. They had barely time to close the outer gate, and shut -themselves up in a loft,—that could be ascended only by a ladder, and -through a trap-door, which they let fall—before their pursuers rode up -to the house. At first the Frenchmen civilly demanded admission; but -this being refused, they—guessing, probably, how the case stood, from -none but female voices replying to their demands—proceeded to threaten -to force an entrance.</p> - -<p>My daughter-in-law, who speaks a few words of French, then appeared at -the window; told them it was an abandoned house, and contained -absolutely nothing, not even refreshment for their horses; that, by -keeping down the valley to the left, they would, in less than an hour, -reach the <i>Hermita of El Cuervo</i>, where they would find all they might -stand in need of.<a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a></p> - -<p>The beauty of her who addressed them—for in those days my -daughter-in-law was a lovely young woman of eighteen—awakened the most -lawless of passions in these ruthless profligates. Affecting, however, -to disbelieve her statement of the unprovided condition of the house, -they forced open the outer gate, and, after vainly endeavouring to -persuade the terrified females to descend from their place of refuge, -collected all the straw and other combustible articles that were -scattered about the premises, in the apartment beneath, and threatened -to set fire to the house.</p> - -<p>In vain was appeal made to their clemency, to the boasted gallantry of -their nation, to every honourable feeling that inhabits the breast of -man. And at length, exasperated at the determination of these devoted -women, and possibly—it is a compliment I am willing to pay human -nature—thinking that a little smoke would soon induce them to descend, -the reckless monsters fired the straw. The whole building was quickly -enveloped in flames.</p> - -<p>For some minutes the unhappy beings above thought that the straw, being -damp, would not ignite so as to communicate with the wooden rafters of -the floor which supported them, and hoped that they were free from -danger; but the smoke which ascended soon, of itself, became -intolerable. Two of my children dropped on the<a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a> floor from the effects -of suffocation; and one of women, taking her infant in her arms, jumped -from the window and was killed on the spot.</p> - -<p>My daughter-in-law, seeing that for herself there was but a choice of -death,—for the flames had now burst through the crackling -floor,—determined to make an effort to save her child. Pressing him to -her bosom, and covering him with her shawl to protect him from the -flames in her descent, she lifted the trap-door and placed her foot upon -the ladder. The fire had yet spared the upper steps, but ere she reached -the bottom the charred wood gave way, and she fell. The child escaped -from her arms and rolled amongst the blazing straw; she started upon her -feet to save him, but the rude hand of one of the ruffians seized and -dragged her from the flames into the court-yard. Vainly she implored to -be allowed to go to the rescue of her helpless infant; the monster—even -at such a moment looking upon his victim with the eyes of lust—would -not listen to her heart-rending appeals. The agonizing screams of her -writhing offspring gave her superhuman strength; she seized her knife; -plunged it deep in the Frenchman’s breast; and, released from his -paralyzed arms, rushed back into the flames.</p> - -<p>Alas! it was too late—nothing but the blackened skeleton now remained -of her darling child.<a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a></p> - -<p>She darted, with the fury of a tigress robbed of its young, upon one of -the other Frenchmen, but he disarmed her, and, with a returning feeling -of humanity, forbore inflicting any further injury upon the frantic -woman; and, after some apparent altercation with his companion, both -mounted their horses and rode away. They were just in time to make their -escape, as the four men I had despatched rode up to the front gate of -the house, as they went off by the other.</p> - -<p>One of my people was an inhabitant of the <i>Casa de Castañas</i>, and -knowing the premises, quickly brought a ladder from a place of -concealment, and applied it to the window of the burning portion of the -building. My wife and the other two women were brought down safely, -though all more or less scorched, but the floor gave way before the -children, who were lying in an insensible state from suffocation, could -be removed.</p> - -<p>I despatched an indignant remonstrance to the French general, on the -inhuman conduct of his troops towards helpless women and children; and -threatened, if the perpetrators were not signally punished, to hang -every one of his countrymen that might fall into my hands, but he never -deigned to answer my letter.</p> - -<p>Some weeks elapsed after these events, ere Alonzo could leave his couch; -and the enemy seemed now so fully occupied in pressing the<a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a> siege of -Cadiz, that we were led to believe they entertained no idea of paying -the <i>CaserÃa</i> a second visit.</p> - -<p>Want of provisions, and still more of ammunition, had hitherto prevented -our being of much service, in harassing the enemy during their -operations; but, having obtained supplies from Algeciras, I determined -to follow up my remonstrance with a blow, and mustering all our -strength, to make an attempt to carry the enemy’s post at <i>Casa Vieja</i>.</p> - -<p>For this purpose I fixed on the <i>Casa de Castañas</i> for the general -rendezvous; that spot being more conveniently situated than Sanona, for -those who were to join our ranks from Castellar, Ximena, and other -places, and equally as near the projected point of attack.</p> - -<p>At the appointed day, I proceeded with my people to the place of -concentration. Alonzo had insisted on accompanying us, though yet hardly -able to cross a horse; but he thirsted for the blood of the destroyers -of his child and brothers. On reaching the <i>Casa de Castañas</i>, however, -his strength failed him, and he was obliged to remain there.</p> - -<p>Leaving <i>Pepito</i>, who sits there, then a beardless boy, to tend upon -Alonzo, and accompany him back to Sanona on the morrow, we departed on -our expedition.</p> - -<p>The chapel and few houses which compose the<a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a> village of <i>Casa Vieja</i>, -are situated on the brow of a high hill overlooking a wide plain, -watered by the river Barbate. Not a bush interrupts the view for several -miles in any direction, so that to approach the place some -circumspection was requisite. I halted my men in the woods bordering the -Celemin—on the very spot, perhaps, where Muley Aben Hassan, King of -Granada, fixed his camp, when he sallied forth from Malaga to plunder -the estates of the Duke of Medina SidonÃa—and sent one of my most -trustworthy followers on to reconnoitre, purposing, if a favourable -report was received, to make an attack at the point of day, trusting to -the shadows of night to conceal our march across the open plain.</p> - -<p>Our scout returned only a couple of hours before dawn. He had -experienced much difficulty in fording the Barbate, which was swollen by -recent rains. He brought us the startling news, that a considerable -French force had left Alcalá de los Gazules, the preceding day, to -penetrate into the mountains, and was now probably in our rear, either -at the <i>Casa de Castañas</i> or at Sanona.</p> - -<p>It was necessary to fall back immediately. We were at the fork of the -roads leading from those two places to <i>Casa Vieja</i>, but on which should -we direct our march? My heart whispered, to the former, where my Alonzo, -the last of my<a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a> race, was left defenceless; but the wives and families -of my companions were all at Sanona, and duty bade me hasten thither for -their protection. The struggle of my feelings was severe, but short. I -sent a trusty friend on a swift horse to save Alonzo, if time yet -permitted, and hurried the march of my troop to the <i>CaserÃa</i>. We -reached it in three hours.</p> - -<p>We found every thing as we had left it. Those who had remained there had -neither seen nor heard anything of the enemy, but my son had not -returned home. I now regretted not having proceeded to the <i>Casa de -Castañas</i>, and proposed to my wearied men to march on and attack the -<i>Gavachos</i> in their passage through the passes, fully expecting they -would now direct their steps to the <i>CaserÃa</i>. They acceded to my -proposal with <i>vivas</i>. A cup of wine and a mouthful of bread were given -to each, and we were off.</p> - -<p>We had not yet gained the pass yonder, at the back of the house, when we -met the man I had sent to the <i>Casa de Castañas</i>, coming towards us at -full speed. He informed us that he had encountered the French when on -his way to <i>Las Navas</i>, directing their march towards <i>Casa Vieja</i>. -Fortunately escaping their observation, he had concealed himself in a -thicket whilst they passed. <i>Pepito</i>—whom, it will be recollected, I -had left with Alonzo—was walking by the<a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a> side of one of their officers, -undergoing a strict examination respecting our movements, &c. They had -several other prisoners in charge, who were tied together in couples, -but he could not distinguish Alonzo amongst them. My son’s favourite -dog, <i>Hubilon</i>, however, brought up the rear, led by one of the -marauders; and the faithful creature’s oft-averted head and restive -attempts to escape, sufficiently proved that his master had been left -behind.</p> - -<p>Under this conviction, he had pushed on to the <i>Casa de Castañas</i> as -soon as the enemy were out of sight, and had thoroughly searched every -part of the building; but not a living being did it contain. The pigeons -even had deserted it, or, more probably, had been sacrificed, for -feathers and bones were scattered about on all sides, the smoke of -numerous fires darkened the white-washed walls, and the stains of wine -were left on the stone pavement, proving that the house had lately been -the scene of a deep carouse.</p> - -<p>From this account, it was evident that the Frenchmen had marched upon -our track in the hope of taking us between two fires, and it was most -fortunate we had returned to Sanona, instead of falling back upon the -<i>Casa de Castañas</i>; for the superiority of their number, in a chance -encounter, would have given them every advantage.</p> - -<p>It was probable that the enemy would now<a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a> continue their pursuit in -hopes of taking us by surprise at Sanona; we countermarched immediately -therefore, and passing the <i>CaserÃa</i>, took up a strong position about -two miles beyond it, on the road to <i>Casa Vieja</i>, where we waited for -the enemy.</p> - -<p>We were not mistaken in our supposition, for scarcely were my men -posted, when the French advance appeared in sight. I allowed them to -approach to within pistol shot, and gave them a volley. My men were -scattered among the bushes, so that the extent of our fire made our -force appear much larger than it was in reality. We killed and wounded -several.</p> - -<p>The enemy paused, and seeing by their numbers that if they pushed boldly -on, resistance on our parts would be vain, I determined to try and -intimidate them; and taking for this purpose eight or ten active -fellows, we made our way through the brushwood which covered the hill -side on our left, and opened a flank fire upon the main body of the -enemy; who, imagining a fresh column had come to take part in the -action, fell back in some confusion to a place of greater security, and -one where they had more space to deploy their strength.</p> - -<p>We had effectually succeeded in frightening them, however, and no -further attempt was made to force our position; but it was not until the -next day that they finally left the mountains<a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a> and retired to their -fortified posts of Casa Vieja and Alcalà .</p> - -<p>No sooner had I seen them fairly out of the SerranÃa, than I retraced my -steps with all possible speed to Sanona; still indulging the fond hope -that Alonzo might have made his escape and reached home; but, -disappointed in this expectation, I proceeded on without loss of time to -the <i>Casa de Castañas</i>.</p> - -<p>I had scarcely entered the house ere I was greeted by “<i>Hubilon</i>,"—ay, -my good dog, said Don Luis, caressing his pet, your grandsire—who -evidently had come on the same errand as myself. But our search was -fruitless. The well, the vaults, the lofts and out-houses, every place, -was ransacked, but I discovered nothing to lead to the belief that -Alonzo had either been left there or been murdered. I mounted my horse -to return home, and had proceeded some little way, when I heard the howl -of <i>Hubilon</i>. Thinking I had inadvertently shut him in the house, I sent -back one of my companions to release him, but he returned, saying that -the dog would not leave the spot. I returned myself, but the sagacious -animal was not to be enticed away; he gave evident signs of pleasure at -seeing me, and began scratching furiously at the boarded floor of one of -the interior apartments. I approached to see what it was that excited -his attention, and discovered a trap door. With some little<a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a> difficulty -I raised it up, and <i>Hubilon</i> instantly leapt into the dark abyss. His -piteous whining soon informed me that he had found the body of his -master; a light was struck; I let myself down, and on the stone floor of -the cold, damp vault lay the body of my unfortunate son; his hands were -tied behind his back, and a handkerchief was drawn across his mouth to -stifle his cries!</p> - -<p>To me it appeared that the spirit of my Alonzo had long left its earthly -tenement, but the affectionate brute, by licking his master’s face, -proved that life was not yet entirely extinct. Assisted by my -companions, I lifted my son out of the noxious vault, and, by friction, -a dram of <i>aguadiente</i>, and exposure to the sun and a purer atmosphere, -animation was gradually restored; and in the course of a few days he was -able to bear the journey home; but from the effects of this confinement -he has never recovered.</p> - -<p>He had no recollection of any of the circumstances which preceded his -incarceration. A raging fever, brought on by fatigue and exposure to the -sun in his previously weak state, had affected his brain, as well as -deprived him of all strength. But <i>Pepito</i> (who rejoined us a few days -after,) stated, that Alonzo himself, in his delirium, had declared to -the French on their arrival, who he was, and had besought them to<a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a> put -an end to his sufferings. The superior officer of the party had -directed, however, that he should not be ill-treated; “what if he be the -son of the <i>old wild boar</i>?†(the name by which they honoured me,) said -he to his men; “we came not to murder our enemies in cold blood—carry -him into the house and let him die in peace.â€</p> - -<p><i>Pepito</i> guessed by the malignant glance of one Italian-looking -scoundrel—“I ask your pardon, Señor Damien,†said Don Luis, in a -parenthesis; “<i>servitore umilissimo</i>,†replied he of the <i>Val -d’Aosta</i>.—<i>Pépé</i> guessed, I say, by the look that he who stepped -forward to execute the orders of his officer gave one of his companions, -whom he invited to assist him, that their superior’s humane intentions -would not be fulfilled; he begged hard, therefore, to be allowed to -remain and wait upon his young master. “Impossible,†replied the -officer, “you must be our guide.â€</p> - -<p>The two men were absent but a few minutes, and then came out of the -house and informed the officer that they had placed the rebel chief in -the coolest place they could find; probably their fear of Alonzo’s cries -had deterred them from killing him outright.</p> - -<p>The abominable cruelties of these dastards exasperated every one. The -expedition which was at this time undertaken to raise the siege of Cadiz -promised to afford us a favourable opportunity<a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a> of taking vengeance; but -the cowardice of a Spaniard—the cowardice, if not treason, of a Spanish -general—marred our fair prospects. The glorious field of Barrosa decked -with fresh laurels the brows of our brave allies; but, to this day, the -very name fills the breast of every loyal Spaniard with shame. Oh! that -I and my people had been thereto share the danger and glory of that day; -but we fulfilled with credit the part allotted to us. In the plan -adopted by the allied generals it was settled that the <i>Serraños</i>, -should make a diversion in the direction of <i>Casa Vieja</i> and <i>Alcalà de -los Gazules</i>, to draw the enemy’s attention on that side, whilst their -combined forces should proceed along the coast to Chiclana; accordingly -<i>io y mi gente</i>....<a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">DON LUIS’S NARRATIVE IS INTERRUPTED BY A BOAR—THE BATIDA -RESUMED—DEPARTURE FROM SANONA—ROAD TO CASA VIEJA—THE PRIEST’S -HOUSE—ADVENTURE WITH ITINERANT WINE-MERCHANTS—DEPARTURE FROM CASA -VIEJA—ALCALA DE LOS GAZULES—ROAD TO XIMENA—RETURN TO GIBRALTAR.</p></div> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> old man, excited by the stirring recollections of the eventful times -to which his narrative referred, his eyes sparkling with animation, and -his words flowing somewhat more rapidly than in their wonted even -current, had risen from his rocky seat, and, having transferred his -fowling-piece to the left hand, was standing with his right arm extended -in the direction of the scene of his former exploits, when he suddenly -dropt his voice, and, after slowly, and, as it appeared to us, -abstractedly, repeating his favourite expression, “<i>Io y mi gente</i>,†he -ceased altogether to speak, and appeared transfixed to the spot. His -right arm remained stretched out towards Cadiz, and his<a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a> head was turned -slightly to one side, but the only motion perceptible was a tightening -of the fingers round the barrel of his long gun.</p> - -<p>As if from the effect of sympathy, Damien’s jaws—which for the last -hour had been keeping <i>Hubilon</i> in a state of tantalization, threatening -to produce St. Vitus’s dance—suddenly became equally motionless; his -huge proboscis was turned on one side for a moment to allow free access -to his left ear, and then starting up he exclaimed, “<i>Javali! -cospetto!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a></p> - -<p>“<i>Quiet ... o!</i>†said Don Luis, in an undertone, at the same time -motioning Damien to resume his seat, “<i>Si, es una puerca</i>.â€<a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> And -then making signs to his men, they rose without a word, and went -stealthily off down the hill.</p> - -<p>We now distinctly heard the grunting of a pig, and were hastily -distributed in a semicircle, along the crest of the steep ridge we had -selected for our resting-place. We had scarcely got into position before -the cries of the beaters, and several shots fired in rapid succession, -gave us notice that they had come in sight of the chase; but the sounds -died away, and we were beginning to speak to each other in terms of -disappointment, when a loud grunt announced the vicinity of a visiter. -Hearing our voices, however, he went off at a tangent, and attempted to -cross the ridge lower down; but<a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a> this was merely, as the Spaniards say, -“<i>Escapar del trueno y dar en el relampago</i>:â€<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> a sharp fire there -opened upon him, and after various trips he was fairly brought to the -ground. Our <i>couteaux de chasse</i> were instantly brandished, but the -grisly monster, recovering himself quickly, once more got into a long -trot, and, most probably, would have effected his escape, but that he -was encountered and turned back by some of the dogs. Finding himself -thus pressed on all sides by enemies, he again attempted to force the -line of sportsmen, and a second time was made to bite the dust. He -managed, nevertheless, to recover himself once more, and might, even yet -possibly, have got away from us but for the dogs, which hung upon and -detained him until some of the beaters came up and despatched him with -their knives; not, however, until he had killed one dog outright, and -desperately gored two others. The dogs showed extraordinary <i>pluck</i> in -attacking him.</p> - -<p>On examining the huge monster, we found he had received no less than -four bullets: two in the neck, and two in the body. A fire was -immediately kindled, and, having been singed, to destroy the vermin -about him, he was decorated with laurel and holly, placed on the back of -a mule, and, with the rest of our spoils, sent off to the <i>CaserÃa</i>.<a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a></p> - -<p>The beaters informed us, that they had seen the wild sow and four young -ones, which Don Luis had sent them after; but that they had made off -through the wooded valley to the right, ere they could succeed in -heading and turning them up the hill.</p> - -<p>It was decided that we should proceed immediately after them, and leave -the conclusion of Don Luis’s tale for the charcoal fire-circle in the -evening; but, as the rest of his story related principally to events -that are well known, and was all “<i>Santiago y cierra España</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> I -will spare my readers the recital.</p> - -<p>The rest of the day’s sport was poor, but the grand and ever-varying -mountain scenery was of itself an ample reward for the fatigue of -scrambling up the steep braes. Towards sunset we retraced our steps, -thoroughly tired, to the <i>CaserÃa</i>. Damien, mounting a stout mule, rode -on to prepare dinner, saying, “<i>Messieurs, sans doute, désireront goûter -du chevreuil de Sanone; vado avanti con questo motivo, e subito, subito, -all red-dy"</i>;<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a> and, digging his heels into the animal’s side, he -thereupon started off at a jog-trot, his huge feet sticking out at right -angles, like the paddle-boxes of a steamer, the smoke of a cigar rolling -away from his mouth, like the clouds from the steamer’s tall black -funnel.<a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a></p> - -<p>On the following morning we departed from Sanona, taking the road to -Casa Vieja, and sending our game into Gibraltar.</p> - -<p>Don Luis would on no account receive any remuneration for the use of his -house, &c.; and a very moderate sum satisfied the beaters he had engaged -for us.</p> - -<p>The distance to Casa Vieja is about twelve miles, the country wild and -beautiful; but the view, after gaining a high pass, about three miles -from Sanona, is confined to the valley along which the road thenceforth -winds, until it reaches the river Celemin. This stream is frequently -rendered impassable by heavy rains. Emerging now from the woods and -mountains, the road soon reaches the Barbate, which river, though -running in a broad and level valley, is of a like treacherous character -as the Celemin.</p> - -<p>The little chapel and hamlet, whither we were directing our steps, now -became visible, being situated under the brow of a high hill on the -opposite bank of the river, and distant about a mile and a half. The -road across the valley is very deep in wet weather, and the Barbate is -often so swollen, as to render it necessary, in proceeding from Casa -Vieja to the towns to the eastward, to make a wide circuit to gain the -bridges of Vejer or Alcalà de los Gazules.</p> - -<p>We “put up†at the house of the village priest, which adjoins the -chapel. Indeed the<a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a> portion of his habitation allotted to our use was -under the same roof as the church, and communicated with it by a private -door; and I have been credibly informed that, on some occasions, when -the party of sportsmen has been large, beds have been made up within the -consecrated walls of the chapel itself, whereon some of the visiters -have stretched their wearied heretical limbs and rested their <i>aching</i> -heads. In our case there was no occasion to lead the <i>Padre</i> into the -commission of such a sin, since the small apartment given up to us was -just able to contain four stretchers, in addition to a large table.</p> - -<p>The priest was another “<i>amigo mio de mucha aprec’ion</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> of Señor -Damien. Their friendship was based upon the most solid of all -foundations—mutual interest; for, it being an understood thing that the -accommodation, and whatever else we might require, was to be paid for at -a fixed rate, both parties were interested in prolonging our stay: the -<i>Padre</i>, to gain wherewith to shorten the pains of purgatory, either for -himself or others; Damien, simply because he liked shooting better than -even baking in this world.</p> - -<p>To us also this was an agreeable arrangement, since it granted us a -dispensation from<a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a> all ceremony in ordering whatever we wanted, and gave -us also the privilege of making the Padre’s house our home as long as we -pleased. Accordingly, finding the sport good, we passed several days -here very pleasantly. The snipe and duck shooting in the marshes -bordering the Barbate is excellent; francolins, bustards, plover, and -partridges, are to be met with on the table-lands to the westward of the -village; and the woods towards Alcalà and Vejer abound, at times, in -woodcocks.</p> - -<p>An adventure befel me during our short stay at Casa Vieja, which I -relate, as affording a ludicrous exemplification of the power of -flattery—an openness to which, that is to say, vanity, is certes the -great foible of the Spanish character.</p> - -<p>I had devoted one afternoon to a solitary ride to Vejer, (which town is -about eleven miles from Casa Vieja,) and had proceeded some little -distance on my way homewards, when, observing a very curious bird on a -marshy spot by the road-side, I dismounted—knowing my pony would not -stand fire—to take a shot at it. The gun missed fire, as I expected it -would; for, in consequence of its owner not having been able to -discharge it during the whole morning, I had lent him mine to visit the -snipe-marsh, and taken his to bear me company on my ride. The explosion -of the detonating cap was enough, however, to frighten my pony; he<a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a> -started—jerked the bridle off my arm—and, finding himself free, -trotted away towards Casa Vieja.</p> - -<p>I ran after him for some distance, fondly hoping that the tempting green -herbage on the road-side would induce him to stop and taste, but my -accelerated speed had only the effect of quickening his; from a trot he -got into a canter, from a canter into a gallop; and, panting and -perspiring, I was soon obliged to abandon the chase, and trust that the -animal’s natural sagacity would take him back to his stable.</p> - -<p>I had long lost sight of the runaway—for a thick wood soon screened him -from my view,—and had arrived within four miles of Casa Vieja, when I -met a party of very suspicious-looking characters, who, under the -pretence of being itinerant <i>wine-merchants</i>, were carrying contraband -goods about the country. They were all very noisy; all, seemingly, very -tipsy; and most of them armed with guns and knives.</p> - -<p>The van was led by a fat Silenus-looking personage, clothed in a shining -goatskin, and seated on a stout ass, between two well-filled skins of -wine; who saluted me with a very gracious wave of the hand, evidently to -save himself the trouble of speaking; but his followers greeted me with -the usual “<i>Vaya usted con Dios</i>;†to which one wag added, in an -undertone,<a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a> “<i>y sin caballo</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a>—a piece of wit that put them all on -the grin.</p> - -<p>Regardless of their joke, I was about to make enquiries concerning my -pony, which it was evident they knew something about, when I discovered -a stout fellow, bringing up the rear of the party, astride of the -delinquent. Considering the disparity of force, and aware of the -unserviceable condition of my weapon, I thought it best to be remarkably -civil, so informing the gentleman riding my beast that I was its owner, -and extremely obliged to him for arresting the fugitive’s course, I -requested he would only give himself the further trouble of dismounting, -and putting me in possession of my property.</p> - -<p>This, however, he positively refused to do. “How did he know I was the -owner? It might be so, and very possibly was, but I must go with him to -Vejer, and make oath to the fact before <i>la Justicia</i>.†This, I said, -was out of the question: it was evident that the horse was mine, since I -had claimed him the moment I had seen him; and as, by his own admission, -he had found the animal, he must have done so out of my sight, since we -were now in a thick wood. If, I added, he chose to return with me to -Casa Vieja, the <i>Padre</i>, at whose house I was staying, would convince -him of the truth of my<a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a> statement, and I would remunerate him for his -trouble. But I argued in vain! “If,†he replied, “I felt disposed to -give him an <i>onza</i>,<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> he would save <i>me</i> further trouble, but -otherwise justice must take its course.â€</p> - -<p>I remarked that the <i>haca</i> was not worth much more than a doubloon. -“No!†exclaimed one of the party, jumping off his mule, thrusting his -hand into his belt, and producing <i>two</i>, “I’ll give you these without -further bargaining.â€</p> - -<p>This occasioned a laugh at my expense. I turned it off, however, by -telling my friend, that if he would bring his money to Gibraltar we -might possibly deal; but, as I had occasion for my pony to carry me back -there, I could not at that moment conveniently part with him.</p> - -<p>There seemed but slight chance, however, of my recovering my pony -without trudging back to Vejer; and, probably, they would have ridden -off, and laughed at me, after proceeding half way; or by paying a -handsome ransom, which I was, in fact, unable to do, having only the -value of a few shillings about me.</p> - -<p>The dispute was getting warm, and my patience exhausted; for vain were -my representations that the <i>haca could</i> belong to no one else—that the -saddle, bridle, and even the very <i>tail</i> of the animal, were all -English. The Don kept his seat, and coolly asked, whether I<a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a> thought -they could not make as good saddles, and cut as short tails, in Spain?</p> - -<p>The party had halted during this altercation, and old Silenus, who, by -his dress and position, seemed to be the head of the <i>firm</i>, had taken -no part in the dispute. He appeared, indeed, to be so drowsy, as to be -quite unconscious of what was passing. I determined, however, to make an -appeal to him, and summoning the best Spanish I could muster to my aid, -called upon him as a Spanish <i>hidalgo</i>, a man of honour, and a person of -sense, as his appearance bespoke, to see justice done me.</p> - -<p>He had heard, I continued, in fact he had <i>seen</i>, how the case stood; -and was it to be believed that a foreigner travelling in Spain—perhaps -the most enlightened country in the world—and trusting to the -well-known national probity, should be thus shamefully plundered? An -Englishman, above all others, who, having fought in the same ranks -against a common enemy, looked upon every individual of the brave -Spanish nation as a brother! Could a people so noted for honour, -chivalry, gratitude, and every known virtue, be guilty of so bare-faced -an imposition?</p> - -<p>Oh, “flattery! delicious essence, how refreshing art thou to nature! how -strongly are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side!â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Baj’ usted!</i>†grunted forth Silenus to the<a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a> man mounted on my pony, -accompanying the words with a circular motion of his right arm towards -the earth. “<i>Baj’ usted luego!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a> repeated the irate leader in a -louder tone, seeing that there was a disposition to resist his commands. -“Mount your horse, caballero,†he continued, turning to me, “you have -not over-estimated the Spanish character.â€</p> - -<p>I did not require a second bidding, but, vaulting into the vacated -saddle, pushed my pony at once into a canter, replying to the man’s -application for something for his trouble, by observing, that I did not -reward people for merely obeying the orders of their superiors; and, -kissing my hand to the fat old Satyr, rode off, amidst the laughter -occasioned by the discomfiture of the dismounted knight.</p> - -<p>On the morning fixed for our departure from Casa Vieja, Damien came to -us at a very early hour—a smile breaking through an assumed cloudy -expression of countenance—to report that the Barbate was so swollen by -the rain which had fallen without cessation during the night, as to be -no longer fordable: “<i>Nous pouvons demeurer encore trois ou quatre -jours</i>,†he added, “<i>car il nous reste de quoi manger—du thé, du sucre, -du jambon, un bon morceau de bouilli de rosbif, et autres bagatelles; et -comme il fait beau temps à présent, puede ser que havra<a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a> una entrada de -gallinetas esta noche—no es verdad Señor Padre?</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> turning to the -priest, who had followed him into the room.</p> - -<p>We were prepared for this contingency, however, and, stating that we -<i>must</i> go, signified our intention of returning home by way of Alcalà de -los Gazules. Damien was horror-struck. “<i>Corpo di Bacco! Messieurs, -celle là est la plus mauvaise route du pays! è infestata di cattivissima -gente, ad ogni passo. No es verdad, Don Diego, que esa trocha de Alcalà -allà ‘se llama el camino del infierno!</i>†“<i>Si, si</i>,†replied the -priestly lodging-house keeper with a nod, “<i>tan verdad como la Santa -Escritura.</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a></p> - -<p>Finding, however, that we were bent on departing, Don Diego went to make -his bill out; and Damien, now truly alarmed, proposed that, at all -events, we should take the shorter and more practicable route homewards, -by way of Vejer. But the name of the other had taken our fancy, and -orders were given accordingly, our departure being merely postponed -until the afternoon; for, as it would be necessary to sleep at Alcalà , -which is but nine miles from Casa Vieja, we agreed to have another brush -at the snipes ere leaving the place.<a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a></p> - -<p>In the afternoon we set out. At two miles from Casa Vieja the road -crosses a tributary stream to the Barbate, which reached up to our -saddle-girths, and then traverses some wooded hills for about an equal -distance. The rest of the way is over an extensive flat.</p> - -<p>Little is seen of Alcalà but an old square tower, and the ruined walls -of its Moorish castle, in approaching it on this side. The town is built -on a rocky peninsulated eminence, which, protruding from a ridge of -sierra that overlooks the place to the east, stretches about a mile in a -southerly direction, and, excepting along the narrow neck that connects -it with this mountain-range, is every where extremely difficult of -access. A road, however, winds up to the town by a steep ravine on the -south-eastern side of the rugged eminence; and a good approach has also -been made, though with much labour, at its northern extremity. The river -Barbate washes the western side of the mound, and across it, and -somewhat above the town—which is huddled together along the northern -crest of the ridge—a solid stone bridge presents itself, where the -roads from Casa Vieja, Medina Sidonia, and Xeres, concentrate.</p> - -<p>The ascent from the bridge, as I have mentioned, is good, but very -steep. The position of the town is most formidable; its walls, however,<a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a> -are all levelled; and, of the castle, the square tower, or keep, alone -remains. The streets are narrow, but not so steep as we expected to find -them, and they are remarkably well paved. The houses are poor, though -some trifling manufactories of cloths and tanneries give the place a -thriving look. Its population amounts to about 9000 souls.</p> - -<p><i>This</i> Alcalà receives its distinctive name of “<i>los Gazules</i>†(i.e. the -Castle of the Gazules), from a tribe of Moors so called; but what Roman -city stood here is a mere matter of conjecture.</p> - -<p>The inn afforded but indifferent accommodation; but our host and hostess -were obliging people, and very good-naturedly made over to us the olla -prepared for their own supper. It was a fine specimen of the culinary -art; the savoury odour alone, that exuded from the bubbling stew, drew a -smile from Damien’s unusually lugubrious countenance; and, on afterwards -witnessing the justice we did to its merits, he kindly wished—with a -doubt-implying compression of the lips—that we might have as good an -appetite to enjoy as good a supper on the following night.</p> - -<p>We set out at daybreak, accompanied by a guide, though, I think, we -could have dispensed with his services. The road enters the SerranÃa, -immediately on leaving Alcalà , taking an<a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a> easterly direction, and -ascends for five miles by a rock-bound valley, partially under -cultivation, and watered by several streams, along which mills are -thickly scattered. On leaving them behind, the country becomes very wild -and desolate; the mountains ahead appear quite impracticable; and, long -ere we reached their base, the Piedmontese march had several times -resounded through the rocky gorges that encompassed us.</p> - -<p>At length we began to scramble up towards a conical pinnacle, called <i>El -Peñon de Sancho</i>,<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> which presents a perpendicular face, to the -south-west, of some hundreds of feet, and whose white cap, standing out -from the dark sierra behind, is a landmark all along the coast from -Cipiona to Cape Trafalgar.</p> - -<p>We soon attained a great elevation, crossing a pass between the <i>Peñon -de Sancho</i> and the main sierra on our left. The view, looking back -towards Cadiz, is magnificent, and the scenery for the next four miles -continues to be of the most splendid kind, the road being conducted -along the side of the great sierra <i>Monteron</i>, and by the pass of <i>La -Brocha</i> to the sierra <i>Cantarera</i>.</p> - -<p>The road is by no means so bad as, from the name it bears, we were -prepared to expect; in fact, there are many others in the SerranÃa of a<a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a> -far more infernal character. After riding about four hours—a distance -of twelve miles—we reached a verdant little vale, enclosed on all sides -by rude mountains, wherein the Celemin takes its rise, and whence it -wends its way through a deep and thickly wooded ravine to the south. -This gullet is called the <i>Garganta de los Estudientes</i>, from the -circumstance, as our guide informed us, of some scholars having ventured -down it who never afterwards were heard of—to which story Damien -listened with great dismay.</p> - -<p>We halted at this delightful spot for half an hour, as well to breathe -our horses as to examine the contents of Damien’s <i>alforjas</i>, who took -his meal, pistol in hand, for fear of a surprise. Continuing our -journey, we had to traverse some more very difficult country, the views -from which were now towards Ximena, Casares, Gibraltar, and the -Mediterranean; including an occasional peep of Castellar, as we advanced -to the eastward.</p> - -<p>At four miles and a half from our resting-place, the road branches into -two, the left proceeding to Ximena (five miles and a half), the other -leading toward Estepona, and the towns bordering the Mediterranean. -Taking the latter path, in about two hours we reached the river -Sogarganta, along the right bank of which is<a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a> conducted the main road -from Ximena to Gibraltar.</p> - -<p>Damien’s countenance brightened on his once more finding himself in “<i>un -pays reconnu</i>,†and, turning joyfully into the well-known track, he -struck up one of his most <i>scherzosa</i> arias; the heretofore dreaded -<i>Boca de Leones</i> and Almoraima forest (which we had yet to pass), being -robbed of their terrors by the superior dangers we had safely -surmounted; and, in the words of the favourite poet of his country,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i2"><i>"Dopo sorte si funesta</i><br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>Sarà placida quest alma</i><br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>E godrà —tornata in calma—</i><br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>I perigli rammentar."</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">DEPARTURE FOR MADRID—CORDON DRAWN ROUND THE CHOLERA—RONDA—ROAD -TO CORDOBA—TEBA—ERRONEOUS POSITION OF THE PLACE ON THE SPANISH -MAPS—ITS LOCALITY AGREES WITH THAT OF ATEGUA, AS DESCRIBED BY -HIRTIUS, AND THE COURSE OF THE RIVER GUADALJORCE WITH THAT OF THE -SALSUS—ROAD TO CAMPILLOS—THE ENGLISH-LOVING INNKEEPER AND HIS -WIFE—AN ALCALDE’S DINNER SPOILT—FUENTE DE PIEDRA—ASTAPA—PUENTE -DON GONZALO—RAMBLA—CORDOBA—MEETING WITH AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE.</p></div> - -<p>T<small>HE</small> next and last excursion of which I purpose extracting some account -from my notebook, was commenced with the intention of proceeding from -Gibraltar to Madrid, late in the autumn of the year 1833; at which time, -the cholera having broken out in various parts of the kingdom of -Seville, it was necessary to “shape a course†that should not subject my -companion and self to the purifying process of a lazaret; a rigid -quarantine system having been adopted by the other kingdoms bordering -the infected territory.<a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a></p> - -<p>We hired three horses for the journey; that is to say, for any portion -of it we might choose to perform on horseback: two for ourselves, and -one to carry our portmanteaus, as well as the <i>mozo</i> charged with their -care and our guidance.</p> - -<p>We found, on enquiry, that by avoiding two or three towns lying upon the -road, we could reach Cordoba without deviating much from the direct -route to that city, whence we purposed continuing our journey to the -capital by the diligence. We proceeded accordingly to Ronda, which place -being in the kingdom of Granada, was open to us; and thither I will at -once transport my readers, the road to it having already been fully -described. After sojourning a couple of days at the little capital of -the SerranÃa, comforting my numerous old and kind friends with the -opinion (which the event, I was happy to find, confirmed), that the new -enemy against which their country had to contend—the dreaded -cholera—would not cross the mountain barrier that defended their city; -we proceeded on our journey, taking the road to Puente Don Gonzalo, on -the Genil, thereby avoiding Osuna, which lay upon the direct road to -Cordoba, but in the infected district.</p> - -<p>In an hour from the time of our leaving Ronda, we crossed the rocky -gulley which has been noticed as traversing the fertile basin in<a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a> which -the city stands, laterally, bearing the little river Arriate to irrigate -its western half, and in the course of another hour reached the northern -extremity of this fruitful district. The hills here offer an easy egress -from the rock-bound basin; but, though nature has left this one level -passage through the mountains, art has taken no advantage of it to -improve the state of the road, for a viler <i>trocha</i> is not to be met -with, even in the rudest part of the SerranÃa.</p> - -<p>The view of the rich plain and dark battlements of Ronda is remarkably -fine.</p> - -<p>After winding amongst some round-topped hills, the road at length -reaches a narrow rocky pass, which closes the view of the vale of Ronda, -and a long deep valley opens to the north, the mouth of which appears -closed by a barren mountain, crowned by the old castle of <i>Teba</i>.</p> - -<p>The path now undergoes a slight improvement, and, after passing some -singular table-rocks, and leaving the little village of <i>La Cueva del -Becerro</i> on the left, reaches the <i>venta de Virlan</i>. We, however, had -inadvertently taken a track that, inclining slightly to the right, led -us into the bottom of the valley, and in about four miles (from the -pass) brought us to the miserable little village of <i>Serrato</i>. The -proper road, from which we had strayed, keeps along the side of the -hills, about half a mile off, on<a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a> the left; and upon it, and three miles -from the first venta, is another, called <i>del Ciego</i>. Yet a little -further on, but situated on an elevated ridge overlooking the valley, is -the little town of <i>Cañete la Real</i>.</p> - -<p>From Serrato our road led us to the old castle of Ortoyecar, ere -rejoining the direct route; which it eventually does, about a mile -before reaching the foot of the mountain of Teba.</p> - -<p>This singular feature is connected by a very low pass with the chain of -sierra on the left, and, stretching from west to east about -three-quarters of a mile, terminates precipitously along the river -<i>Guadaljorce</i>. The road, crossing over the pass, and leaving on the -right a steep paved road, that zig-zags up the mountain, winds round to -the west, keeping under the precipitous sides of the ridge, and avoiding -the town of Teba, which, perched on the very summit, but having a -northern aspect, can only be seen when arrived at the north side of the -rude mound; and there another winding road offers the means of access to -the place.</p> - -<p>The base of the mountain is, on this side, bathed by a little rivulet -that flows eastward to the Guadaljorce, called the <i>Sua de Teba</i>. It is -erroneously marked on the Spanish maps as running on the south side of -the ridge, but the only stream which is there to be met with, is a<a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a> -little rivulet that takes its rise near Becerro and waters the valley by -which we had descended; and it does not approach within a mile of Teba, -but sweeps round to the eastward a little beyond the old castle of -Ortoyecar, and discharges itself into the river Ardales.</p> - -<p>The deep-sunk banks and muddy bottom of the <i>Suda de Teba</i>, render it -impassable excepting at the bridge. This rickety structure is apparently -the same which existed in the time of Rocca, who, in his “Memoirs of the -War in Spain,†gives a very spirited account of the military operations -of the French and <i>serranos</i> in this neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>The locality of Teba is most faithfully described by that author; indeed -I know no one who has given so graphic an account of this part of Spain -generally.</p> - -<p>The ascent to the town on this (the northern) side, is yet more -difficult than that in the opposite direction; but the place will amply -repay the labour of a visit, for the view from it is extremely fine, and -the extensive ruins of its ancient defences, evidently of Roman -workmanship, are well worthy of observation.</p> - -<p>The position of Teba, with reference to other places in the -neighbourhood, and to the circumjacent country, is so inaccurately given -in all maps which I have seen, that the antiquaries seem quite to have -overlooked it as the probable<a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a> site of <i>Ategua</i>, so celebrated for its -obstinate defence against Julius Cæsar.</p> - -<p>Morales—without the slightest grounds, as far as the description of the -country accords with the assumption—imagined <i>Ategua</i> to have stood -where he maintains some ruins, “called by the country-people <i>Teba la -Vieja</i>,†are to be seen between Castrò el Rio and Codoba; but, as I -pointed out in the case of Ronda, and Ronda <i>la Vieja</i>, it is absurd to -suppose that an <i>old Teba</i> could ever have existed, since Teba itself is -a Roman town, and its present name a mere corruption of that which it -bore in times past.</p> - -<p>Other Spanish authors place <i>Ategua</i> at Castro el Rio, some at Baena, -some elsewhere; but almost all appear anxious to fix its site near the -river Guadajoz, which they have determined, in their own minds, must be -the <i>Salsus</i> mentioned by Hirtius.</p> - -<p>La Martinière, with his usual <i>inaccuracy</i>, says, that the Guadajoz -falls into the <i>Salado</i>: he should rather have said, that it is <i>formed</i> -from the confluence of <i>various salados</i>; for, as I have elsewhere -observed, salado is a general term for all water-courses, and not the -name of a river.<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a></p> - -<p><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a></p> - -<p>It seems, however, probable, that the Romans gave the name <i>Salsus</i> to -some river impregnated with salt, which many streams in this part of -Spain are; and since there is an extensive salt-lake still existing near -Alcaudete, on the very margin of the Guadajoz, that river has hastily -been concluded to be that of the Roman historian. But, it appears -strange, if the Guadajoz be the Salsus of Hirtius, that Pliny, when -describing the course of the BÅ“tis, and the principal streams which -fell into it, should have omitted to mention that river, as being one of -its affluents; for the Salsus, from the recentness of the war between -Cæsar and the sons of Pompey, must have been much spoken of in Pliny’s -time.</p> - -<p>But what, to me, proves most satisfactorily that the <i>Guadajoz</i> is <i>not</i> -the Salsus, is, that it so ill agrees with the minute description given -of the river by Hirtius himself;—for, in speaking of the Salsus he -says,<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> “It runs through the plains, and <i>divides</i> them from the -mountains, which all lie upon the side of Ategua, at about two miles’ -distance from the river;†and again, “But what proved principally -favourable to Pompey’s design of drawing out the war, was the nature of -the country, (i. e. about Ategua) full of mountains, and extremely well -adapted to encampments;â€<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> and, from what again follows,<a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a> it is -evident that Ategua stood upon the summit of a mountain.</p> - -<p>Now the Guadajoz nowhere runs so as to <i>divide</i> the plains from the -mountains. It <i>issues from</i> the mountains of Alcalà Real, many miles -before reaching Castrò el Rio, and between that last-named town and -Cordoba, there is no ground that can be called mountainous.</p> - -<p>The country bordering the Guadajoz, in the lower part of its course, -differs as decidedly with the statement that the neighbourhood of Ategua -was “full of mountains,†if we suppose the town to have stood anywhere -<i>below</i> Castrò el Rio.</p> - -<p>It is again improbable that Ategua could have stood on the site of the -supposed <i>Teba la Vieja</i>, or any place in that neighbourhood, since it -is mentioned<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> as being a great provision dépôt of the Pompeians; -which would scarcely have been the case had it been within twenty miles -of the city of Cordoba. And again, it is not likely that Cæsar would -have commenced the campaign by laying siege to a place within such a -short distance of Cordoba, since the invested town might so readily have -received succour from that city, and his adversary would, by such a -step, have had the advantage of combining all his forces to attack him -during the progress of the siege.<a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a></p> - -<p>Again, another objection presents itself, namely, that Ategua is -represented as a particularly strong place,<a name="FNanchor_126_126" id="FNanchor_126_126"></a><a href="#Footnote_126_126" class="fnanchor">[126]</a> which, from the nature -of the ground in that part of the country—that is, between Castrò el -Rio and Cordoba—no town could well have been; situation, rather than -art, constituting the strength of towns in those days.</p> - -<p>We will now return to Teba, the locality of which agrees infinitely -better with the account of Ategua given by Hirtius, whilst the River -<i>Guadaljorce</i>, which flows in its vicinity, answers perfectly his -description of the Salsus; for, along its right bank a plain extends all -the way to the Genil; on its left, “at two miles’ distance,†rises a -wall of Sierra; and the whole country, beyond, is “full of mountains, -all lying on the side of†Teba. That is to say, the mountain range -continues in the same direction, and possesses the same marked -character, although the Guadaljorce breaks through it ere reaching so -far west as Teba; for, by a vagary of nature, this stream quits the wide -plain of the Genil to throw itself into a rocky gorge, and after -describing a very tortuous course, gains, at length, the vale of Malaga.</p> - -<p>Now this very circumstance strikes me, on attentive consideration, as -tending rather to strengthen than otherwise the supposition that<a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a> Teba -is Ategua; for Cæsar’s army is not stated to have <i>crossed</i> the Salsus -on its march from Cordoba to Ategua; from which we must conclude that -Ategua was on the <i>right</i> bank of the river; whilst other circumstances -prove that the town was some distance from the river, and encompassed by -mountains.</p> - -<p>Pompey, however, following Cæsar from Cordoba, and proceeding to the -relief of Ategua, <i>crosses the Salsus</i>, and fixes his camp “on these -mountains (i. e. the mountains ‘which all lie on the side of Ategua’) -between Ategua and Ucubis, but within sight of both places,†being, as -is distinctly said afterwards, separated from his adversary by the -Salsus.</p> - -<p>Thus, therefore, though his camp was on the same range of mountains as -Ategua, yet he was separated from that town by a river: a peculiarity, -in the formation of the ground, which suits the locality of Teba, but -would be difficult to make agree with any other place.</p> - -<p>The only very apparent objection to this hypothesis is, that Cæsar’s -cavalry is mentioned as having, on one occasion, pursued the foraging -parties of his adversary “almost to the very walls of Codoba.†But this -was when Pompey (after his first failure to relieve Ategua) had drawn -off his army towards Cordoba. It does not follow, therefore, that -Cæsar’s troops pursued his adversary’s parties from Ategua, though he -was still besieging that place, but<a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a> it may rather be supposed that his -cavalry was sent after the enemy to harass them on their march, and -watch their future movements.</p> - -<p>One might, indeed, on equally good grounds, maintain that Ategua was -<i>within a day’s march of Seville</i>; since, on Pompey’s finally abandoning -the field, Hirtius says,<a name="FNanchor_127_127" id="FNanchor_127_127"></a><a href="#Footnote_127_127" class="fnanchor">[127]</a> “the same day he decamped, (from Ucubis, -which was within sight of Ategua) and posted himself in an olive wood -over against Hispalis.â€</p> - -<p>With respect to this knotty point of distance it is further to be -observed, that on Cæsar’s breaking up his camp from before Cordoba, his -march is spoken of as being <i>towards</i> Ategua, implying that the two -places did not lie within a day’s march of each other; and the -supposition that they were more than a few leagues apart is strengthened -by the place, and order in which Ategua is mentioned by the methodical -Pliny; viz., amongst the cities lying between the BÅ“tis and the -Mediterranean Sea, and next in succession to <i>Singili</i>,<a name="FNanchor_128_128" id="FNanchor_128_128"></a><a href="#Footnote_128_128" class="fnanchor">[128]</a> which, -doubtless, was on the southern bank of the Genil, towards Antequera.</p> - -<p>The Guadaljorce has as good claims to the name of <i>Salsus</i>, as any other -river in the country, since the mountains about Antequera,<a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a> amongst -which it takes its rise, were in former days noted for the quantity of -salt they produced; and though the river Guadaljorce now carries its -name to the sea, yet, in the time of the Romans, such was not the case; -for, in those days, by whatever name that river may have been -distinguished, it was dropt on forming its junction with the Sigila, -(now the Rio Grande) in the <i>vega</i> of Malaga, although, of the two, the -latter is the inferior stream.</p> - -<p>The fort of Ucubis, stated by Hirtius to have been destroyed by Cæsar, -we may suppose stood on the side of the mountains overlooking the Salsus -or Guadaljorce, towards Antequera; and it does not seem improbable that -that city is the <i>Soricaria</i> mentioned by the same historian; for -<i>Anticaria</i>, though noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is not -amongst the cities of BÅ“tica enumerated by Pliny.</p> - -<p>Teba was taken from the Moors by Alphonso XI., A.D. 1340. The -inhabitants are a savage-looking tribe, and boast of having kept the -French at bay during the whole period of the “war of independence.â€<a name="FNanchor_129_129" id="FNanchor_129_129"></a><a href="#Footnote_129_129" class="fnanchor">[129]</a></p> - -<p>There is a tolerable venta at the foot of the hill, near the bridge, at -which we baited our horses. The distance from Ronda to Teba is 21 miles; -from hence to Campillos is about six;<a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a> the country is undulated, and -road good, crossing several brooks, some flowing eastward to the -Guadaljorce, others in the opposite direction to the Genil.</p> - -<p>Campillos is situated at the commencement of a vast track of perfectly -level country, that extends all the way to the river Genil. By some -strange mistake it is laid down in the Spanish maps due east of Teba, -whereas it is nearly north. It is four leagues (or about seventeen -miles) from Antequera, and five leagues from Osuna. It is a neat town, -clean, and well-paved, and contains 1000 <i>vecinos escasos</i>;<a name="FNanchor_130_130" id="FNanchor_130_130"></a><a href="#Footnote_130_130" class="fnanchor">[130]</a> which -may be reckoned at 5000 souls, six being the number usually calculated -per <i>vecino</i>.</p> - -<p>Campillos lies just within the border of the kingdom of Seville, and -was, therefore, on forbidden ground; since, had we entered it, our clean -bills of health would have been thereby tainted. We were consequently -obliged to skirt round the town at a tether of several hundred yards. I -regretted this much, for the place contains an excellent <i>posada</i>, -bearing the—to Protestant ears—somewhat profane sign of “<i>Jesus -Nazarino</i>,†and its keepers were old cronies of mine, our friendship -having commenced some years before under rather peculiar<a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a> circumstances, -viz., in travelling from Antequera to Ronda, my horse met with an -accident which obliged me to halt for the night at Campillos. Leaving to -my servant the task of ordering dinner at the inn, I proceeded on foot -to examine the town, and gain, if possible, some elevated spot in its -vicinity whence I could obtain a good view of the country, being -desirous to correct the mistake before alluded to, in the relative -positions of Teba and Campillos on the maps.</p> - -<p>Having found a point suited to this purpose, from whence I could see -both Teba and the <i>Peñon de los Enamorados</i>, (a remarkable conical -mountain near Antequera,) I drew forth a pocket surveying compass, and -took the bearings of those two points, as well as of several other -conspicuous objects in the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>These ill-understood proceedings caused the utmost astonishment to a -group of idlers, who, at a respectful distance, but with significant -nods and mysterious whisperings, were narrowly watching my operations. -These concluded, and the result of my observations committed to my -pocket-book, I took a slight outline sketch of the bold range of -mountains that stretches towards Granada, and returned to the inn.</p> - -<p>On my first arrival there, I had merely addressed the usual compliment -of the country to the innkeeper and his wife, and now, repeating my -salutation to the lady—who only was present<a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a>—I seated myself at the -fire-place of the common apartment, and began writing in my pocket-book, -replying very laconically to her various attempts at conversation; and -at length obtaining no immediate answer to another endeavour to <i>draw me -out</i>, she said, addressing herself, “<i>no entiende</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_131_131" id="FNanchor_131_131"></a><a href="#Footnote_131_131" class="fnanchor">[131]</a> and offered no -further interruptions to my scribbling.</p> - -<p>I confess to the practice of a little deceit in the matter, as my -answers certainly must have led her to believe that I was a very <i>tyro</i> -at the Spanish vocabulary—a fancy in which I used often to indulge the -natives when I wished to shirk conversation.</p> - -<p>Soon afterwards the <i>Posadero</i> came in, and a whispered communication -took place between him and his spouse, which gradually acquiring <i>tone</i>, -I at length was able to catch distinctly, and heard the following -conversation.</p> - -<p>“You are quite certain he does not understand Spanish?†said mine host.</p> - -<p>“Not a syllable,†replied his helpmate.</p> - -<p>“He is about no good here, wife, that I can tell you.â€</p> - -<p>“There does not appear to be much mischief in him.â€</p> - -<p>“We must not trust to looks; I was at the chapel of the Rosario just -now, and he walked up there, took an instrument from his pocket,<a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a> marked -down all the principal points of the country, and then drew them in that -little book he is now writing in ... are you quite sure he does not -understand Spanish?—I observed him smile just now.â€</p> - -<p>“<i>No tienes cuidado</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_132_132" id="FNanchor_132_132"></a><a href="#Footnote_132_132" class="fnanchor">[132]</a> replied the wife; “I have tried him on all -points.â€</p> - -<p>“Depend upon it he is <i>mapeando el pais</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_133_133" id="FNanchor_133_133"></a><a href="#Footnote_133_133" class="fnanchor">[133]</a> resumed the husband.</p> - -<p>“I think you ought forthwith to give notice of his doings to the -<i>Justicia</i>,†answered the lady.</p> - -<p>“Ay, and lose a good customer by having him taken to prison!†rejoined -the patriotic innkeeper; “time enough to do that in the morning after he -has paid his bill; but as to the propriety of giving information wife, I -agree with you perfectly.â€</p> - -<p>“He must be one of the rascally <i>gavachos</i> from Cadiz,†(a French -garrison at this time occupied that fortress,) “but what right has he to -take his notes of our <i>pueblo</i>?<a name="FNanchor_134_134" id="FNanchor_134_134"></a><a href="#Footnote_134_134" class="fnanchor">[134]</a> I thought of questioning the -servant, who does speak a few words of Spanish, before he took the -horses to the smithy, but Don Guillelmo came in and put it out of my -head. Suppose I make another attempt to find out from himself what -brings him here?"<a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a></p> - -<p>“Do so,†said her lord and master; and, with this permission, she -advanced towards me with a very gracious smile, and <i>articulating</i> every -syllable most distinctly, in the hope of making her interrogation -perfectly intelligible, “begged to know if my worship was a Frenchman.â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Yo</i>,†said I, pointing to myself, as if I did not clearly understand -her; “<i>nix</i>.â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Ingles?</i>†demanded she, returning to the charge.</p> - -<p>“<i>Si</i>,†replied I, with a nod affirmative.</p> - -<p>“<i>Valga mi Dios!</i>†exclaimed she, turning to her husband; “he is -English! how delighted I am! what a time it is since I saw an -Englishman! how can we make him comfortable?â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Poco a poco</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_135_135" id="FNanchor_135_135"></a><a href="#Footnote_135_135" class="fnanchor">[135]</a> observed the inn-keeper—“English or French he has -no business to be <i>mapeando</i> our country, and the Alcalde ought to know -of it.â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Disparate!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_136_136" id="FNanchor_136_136"></a><a href="#Footnote_136_136" class="fnanchor">[136]</a> exclaimed the wife; “what does his <i>mapeando</i> -signify if he is an Englishman? are they not our best friends?<a name="FNanchor_137_137" id="FNanchor_137_137"></a><a href="#Footnote_137_137" class="fnanchor">[137]</a> Is -it not the same as if a Spaniard were doing it, only that it will be -better done?â€</p> - -<p>“Very true,†admitted mine host; “they have, indeed, been our friends, -and will soon again, I trust, give us a proof of their friendship,<a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a> by -assisting to drive these French scoundrels across the Pyrenees, and -allowing us to settle our own differences.â€</p> - -<p>Pocketing my memorandum book, I now rose from my seat and addressing the -landlady, “<i>con gentil donayre y talante</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_138_138" id="FNanchor_138_138"></a><a href="#Footnote_138_138" class="fnanchor">[138]</a> as Don Quijote says, -asked, in the best Castillian I could put together, when it was probable -I should have dinner, as from having been the greater part of the -morning on horseback, I was not only very hungry, but should be glad to -retire early to my bed.</p> - -<p>Never were two people more astonished than mine host and his spouse at -this address. Had I detected them in the act of pilfering my saddlebags, -they could not have looked more guilty. They offered a thousand -apologies, but seemed to think the greatest affront they had put upon me -was that of mistaking me for a Frenchman.</p> - -<p>“I ought at once to have known you were no braggart <i>gavacho</i>,†said the -landlord, “by your not making a noise on entering the house—calling for -every thing and abusing every body—How do you think one of these -gentry, who came into Spain as <i>friends</i>, to tranquillize the country, -behaved to our <i>Alcalde</i>? The Frenchman wanted a billet, and finding the -office shut, went to the <i>Alcalde’s</i> house for it. The <i>Alcalde</i> was at -dinner with a couple of friends; he begged<a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a> the officer to be seated, -saying he would send for the <i>Escribano</i> and have a billet made out for -him—‘And am I to be kept waiting for your clerk?’ said the Frenchman; -‘a pretty joke, indeed.’ ‘He will be here in an instant,’ said the -<i>Alcalde</i>; ‘pray have a little patience, and be seated.’ ‘Patience, -indeed!’ exclaimed the other; ‘make the billet out directly yourself, or -I’ll pull the house about your ears.’ ‘<i>Juicio!</i> señor,’ replied the -Mayor; ‘do you not see that I am at dinner?’ ‘What are you at <i>now</i>?’ -said the Frenchman; and, laying hold of one corner of the tablecloth, he -drew it, plates, dishes, glasses, and every thing, off the table. This -is the way our French <i>friends</i> behave to us!â€</p> - -<p>I now satisfied the worthy couple that their fears of mischief arising -from my “<i>mapeando el pais</i>,†were quite groundless; and mine host -showed great intelligence in comprehending what I wished to correct in -the Spanish map; the error in which he saw at once, when I pointed to -the setting sun; his wife standing by and exclaiming “<i>que gente tan -fina los Ingleses</i>!â€<a name="FNanchor_139_139" id="FNanchor_139_139"></a><a href="#Footnote_139_139" class="fnanchor">[139]</a></p> - -<p>No advantage was taken of the knowledge of <i>my</i> country in making out -<i>the bill</i>, and I departed next morning with their prayers that I might -travel in company with all the saints in the calendar.<a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a></p> - -<p>The direct road from Campillos to Cordoba is by way of La Rodd; but, in -the present instance, it was necessary to avoid that town, and proceed -to <i>La Fuente de Piedra</i>, which is situated a few miles to the eastward, -and without the sanitory circle drawn round the cholera.</p> - -<p>The distance from Campillos to this place is two long leagues, which may -be reckoned nine miles.</p> - -<p><i>La Fuente de Piedra</i> is a small village, of about sixty houses, -surrounded with olive-grounds, and abounding in crystal springs. The -medicinal virtues of one of these sources (which rises in the middle of -the place) led to the building of the village; and the painful disease -for which in especial this fountain is considered a sovereign cure, has -given its name to the place. We arrived very late in the evening, and -found the <i>posada</i> most miserable.</p> - -<p>On leaving <i>La Fuente de Piedra</i> we took the road to <i>Puente Don -Gonzalo</i>, and at about three miles from the village crossed the great -road from Granada to Seville, which is practicable for carriages the -greater part, but <i>not all</i> the way; a little beyond this the <i>Sierra de -Estepa</i> rises on the left of the route, to the height of several hundred -feet above the plain. The town of Estepa is not seen, being on the -western side of the hill; it is supposed to be the Astapa of the<a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a> -Romans, the horrible destruction of which is related by Livy.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants, on the approach of Scipio, aware of the exasperated -feelings of the Romans towards them, piled all their valuables in the -centre of the forum, placed their wives and children upon the top, and -leaving a few of their young men to set fire to the pile in the event of -their defeat, rushed out upon the Roman army. They were all killed, the -pile was lighted, and a heap of ashes was the only trophy of their -conquerors.</p> - -<p>The Roman historian says, the people of Astapa “delighted in robberies.†-I wonder if he thought his countrymen exempt from similar propensities!</p> - -<p>In three hours we reached Cazariche. The road merely skirts the village, -being separated from it by an abundant stream, which, serving to -irrigate numerous gardens and orchards, renders the last league of the -ride very agreeable, which otherwise, from the flatness of the country -to the eastward, would be uninteresting. This rivulet is called <i>La -Salada</i>; but its volume is far too small to make one suppose for a -moment that it is the <i>Salsus</i>.</p> - -<p>At five miles from Cazariche, keeping along the left bank of the Salada -the whole distance, but not crossing it, as marked on the maps, the road -reaches Miragenil. This is a small village,<a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a> situated on the southern -bank of the Genil, and communicating, by means of a bridge, with <i>Puente -Don Gonzalo</i>.</p> - -<p>The river here forms the division between the kingdoms of Seville and -Cordoba; and the two governments not having agreed as to the superior -merits of wood or stone, one-half the bridge is built of the former, the -other half of the latter material.</p> - -<p>Puente Don Gonzalo stands on a steep acclivity, commanding the bridge -and river. It is a town of some consideration, containing several -manufactories of household furniture, numerous mills, and a population -of 6000 souls.</p> - -<p>Florez, on the authority of a <i>stone</i> found <i>near</i> Cazariche (which he -calls Casaliche), whereon the word <span class="smcap">VENTIPO</span> was inscribed, supposed -<i>Ventisponte</i>,<a name="FNanchor_140_140" id="FNanchor_140_140"></a><a href="#Footnote_140_140" class="fnanchor">[140]</a> to have been situated somewhere in the vicinity of -Puente Don Gonzalo. But if this stone had been <i>carried</i> to Cazariche, -it may have been taken there from any other point of the compass as well -as from that in which Puente Don Gonzalo is situated.</p> - -<p>Other authorities suppose this town to be on the site of Singilis; but -that place, as already stated, has been pretty clearly proved to have -been nearer Antequera.</p> - -<p>The “<i>provechasos aguas del divino Genil</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_141_141" id="FNanchor_141_141"></a><a href="#Footnote_141_141" class="fnanchor">[141]</a> after cleansing the -town of Puente Don Gonzalo,<a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a> are turned to the best possible account, in -irrigating gardens and turning mill-wheels; and the road to Cordoba, -after proceeding for about a mile along the verdant valley that -stretches to the westward, ascends the somewhat steep bank which pens in -the stream to the north, and for four hours wanders over a flat -uninteresting country to Rambla; passing, in the whole distance of -fifteen miles, but two running streams, three farm-houses, and the -miserable village of Montalban. This latter is distant about a mile and -a half from Rambla.</p> - -<p>We saw but little of this town, having arrived late at night, and -departed from it at an early hour on the following morning; but it is of -considerable size, and situated on the north side of a steep hill. We -found the inn excessively dirty and exorbitantly dear; indeed it may be -laid down as a general rule with Spanish as well as Swiss inns, that the -charges are high in proportion to the <i>badness</i> of the fare and -accommodation.</p> - -<p>The ground in the vicinity of Rambla is planted chiefly with vines, and -but two short leagues to the eastward is situated Montilla, where, in -the estimation of Spaniards, the best wine of the province is grown. It -is extremely dry; and, as I have mentioned before, gives its name to the -Sherry called <i>Amontillado</i>.</p> - -<p>Rambla is just midway between Puente Don<a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a> Gonzalo and Cordoba, viz. -sixteen miles from each. The country is hilly, and mostly under tillage, -but where its cultivators reside puzzles one to guess, as there is not a -house on the road in the whole distance, and but two towns visible from -it, viz. Montemayor and Fernan Nuñez, both within six miles of Rambla.</p> - -<p>The first-named of these places disputes with Montilla the honour of -being the Roman city of <i>UlÃa</i>, the only inland town of BÅ“tica that -held out for Cæsar against the sons of Pompey, previous to his arrival -in the country.<a name="FNanchor_142_142" id="FNanchor_142_142"></a><a href="#Footnote_142_142" class="fnanchor">[142]</a> It appears doubtful<a name="FNanchor_143_143" id="FNanchor_143_143"></a><a href="#Footnote_143_143" class="fnanchor">[143]</a> whether <i>UlÃa</i> is -mentioned by Pliny, but it is noticed in the Roman Itinerary (<i>Gadibus -Cordubam</i>) as eighteen miles from Cordoba, a distance that agrees better -with Montilla than Montemayor; indeed the former almost declares itself -in the very name it yet bears, <i>Montilla</i>; the double <i>l</i> in Spanish -having the liquid sound of <i>li</i>, making it a corruption of <i>Mont UlÃa</i>.</p> - -<p>At about four miles from Cordoba the Guadajoz, or river of Castro, is -crossed by fording, and between it and the GuadalquivÃr the ground is -broken by steep hills. The road falls into the <i>Arrecife</i> from Seville, -on reaching the suburb on the left bank of the river.<a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a></p> - -<p>We took up our abode at the <i>Posada de la MesangerÃa</i>; a particularly -comfortable house, as Spanish inns go, that had been opened for the -accommodation of the diligence travellers since my former visit to the -city. The <i>patio</i>, ornamented with a bubbling fountain of icy-cold -water, and shaded with a profusion of all sorts of rare creepers and -flowering shrubs, afforded a cool retreat at all hours of the day; -which, though we were in the month of October, was very acceptable.</p> - -<p>Whilst seated at breakfast, under the colonnade that encompasses the -court, the morning after our arrival, the master of the inn waited upon -us to know if we required a <i>valet de place</i> during our sojourn at -Cordoba, as a very intelligent old man, who spoke French like a native, -and was in the habit of attending upon <i>caballeros forasteros</i><a name="FNanchor_144_144" id="FNanchor_144_144"></a><a href="#Footnote_144_144" class="fnanchor">[144]</a> in -the above-named capacity, was then in the house, and begged to place his -services at our disposition.</p> - -<p>I replied, that having before visited his city, I considered myself -sufficiently acquainted with its <i>sights</i> to be able to dispense with -this, otherwise useful, personage’s attendance; but our host seemed so -desirous that we should employ the old man, “We might have little -errands to send him upon—some purchases to make; in fact, we should -find the Tio Blas<a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a> so useful in any capacity, and it would be such an -act of charity to employ him,"—that we finally acceded to his proposal, -and the <i>Tio</i> was accordingly ushered in.</p> - -<p>He was a tall, and, though emaciated, still erect old man, whose -tottering gait, and white and scanty hairs, would have led to the belief -that his years had already exceeded the number usually allotted to the -life of man, but that his deep-sunk eyes were shaded by dark and -beatling brows, and yet sparkled occasionally with the fire of youth; -proving that hardships and misfortunes had brought him somewhat -prematurely to the brink of the grave.</p> - -<p>It struck me at the first glance that I had seen him before, but when, -and under what circumstances, I could not recall to my recollection. -After some conversation, as to what had been his former occupation, &c., -he remarked, addressing himself to me, “I think, <i>Caballero</i>, that this -is not the first time we have met—many years have elapsed since—many -(to me) most eventful years, and they have wrought great changes in my -appearance. And, indeed, some little difference is perceptible also in -yours, for you were a mere boy then; but, still, time has not laid so -heavy a hand on you as on the worn-out person of him who stands before -you, and in whom you will, doubtless, have difficulty in recognizing the -reckless <i>Blas Maldonado</i>!"<a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a></p> - -<p>Time had, indeed, effected great changes in him, morally as well as -physically; for not only had the powerful, well-built man, dwindled into -a tottering, emaciated driveller, but the daring, impious bandit, had -become a weak and superstitious dotard.</p> - -<p>My curiosity strongly piqued to learn how changes so wonderful had been -brought about, we immediately engaged the <i>Tio</i> to attend upon us; and, -during the few days circumstances compelled us to remain at Cordoba, I -elicited from him the following account of the events which had -chequered his extraordinary career since we had before met.<a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.<br /><br /> -<small>HISTORY OF BLAS EL GUERRILLERO—<i>continued.</i></small></h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">“<i>La rueda de la fortuna anda mas lista que una rueda de molino, y -que los que ayer estaban en pinganitos, hoy estan por el -suelo.</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_145_145" id="FNanchor_145_145"></a><a href="#Footnote_145_145" class="fnanchor">[145]</a>—</p> - -<p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Don Quijote.</span><br /> -</p> - -</div> - -<p>I<small>T</small> was at Castrò el Rio that we last met Don Carlos; it is now eleven -years since,—rather more, but still I have a perfect recollection of -it. My memory, indeed, is the only thing that has served me well through -life. Friends have abandoned—riches corrupted—success has -hardened—ambition disappointed me; and now, as you see, my very limbs -are failing me, but memory—excepting for one short period, when my -brain was affected—has never abandoned me. I cannot flee from it—it -pursues me incessantly: it is as impossible to get rid of, as of one’s -shadow in the sun’s rays, and seems<a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a> indeed, like it, to become more -perfect, as I too proceed downward in my rapidly revolving course.</p> - -<p>Alas! it often brings to mind the words of my good father, addressed, -whilst I was yet a child, to my too-indulgent mother:—“If we consult -the happiness of our son, we must not bring him up above the condition -to which it has pleased Providence to call him.†It was my unhappy lot, -however, to become an <i>educated pauper</i>. I grew up discontented, and -became a profligate: I coveted riches, to feed my unnatural cravings, -and became criminal: I scoffed at religion, and came to ridicule the -idea of a future state of rewards and punishments. And as I thus brought -myself to believe that I was not an accountable creature, nothing -thenceforth restrained me from committing any act which gratified my -passions. What is man, I argued, that I should not despoil him, if he -possess that which I covet? What should deter me from taking his life, -if he stand between me and that which I desire? <i>Crime</i> is a mere -word,—a term for any act which certain <i>men</i>, for their mutual -advantage, have agreed shall meet with punishment. But what right have -those men to say, this is just, and that is unlawful?</p> - -<p>Such were my feelings at the time I met and related to you the -adventures of my early life; adventures of which I was then not a -little<a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a> proud, though, nevertheless, I slurred over some little matters -that I thought would not raise me in your opinion. Well was it for me -that I was not cut off in the midst of my iniquitous career, but have, -on the contrary, been allowed time, by penance and prayer, to make what -atonement is in my power for my former sinful life.</p> - -<p>My journey to Castrò had been undertaken at the desire of the political -chief of ——, for the purpose of watching the proceedings of the Royal -Regiment of Carbineers, which, as you may remember, was at that time -quartered there.</p> - -<p>I soon, under pretence of being a stanch royalist, wormed myself into -the confidence of the officers, and learnt that they were in -communication with the King’s Guards at Madrid, and were plotting a -counter-revolution, to reestablish Ferdinand on a despotic throne. The -advice I gave them, and the information I furnished the government, led -to the unconnected and premature developement of their treason, and to -the vigorous steps which were taken by the executive to meet and put it -down.</p> - -<p>These, however, are matters of history, on which it is unnecessary to -dwell; suffice it, therefore, to say, that my good services on the -occasion were rewarded by promotion to a more lucrative <i>corregimiento</i>. -I did not long<a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a> enjoy this new post, for, on the French columns crossing -the Pyrenees the following spring, I threw up my civil employment, and, -collecting a small band of <i>guerrillas</i>, flew to the defence of my -country; joining the traitor Ballasteros, then entrusted with the -command of the army of the south.</p> - -<p>The deplorable events which followed deprived me of a home; but, leaving -my wife and infant son (the only child, of three, whom it had pleased -Providence to spare us) at the secluded little town of Cañete la Real, -perched high up in the Sierra de Terril, I wandered about the country -with a few adherents, seeking opportunities of harassing the French -during their operations before Cadiz.</p> - -<p>They afforded us no opportunities, however, of attacking their convoys -with any chance of success, and my followers could not be brought to -engage in any daring enterprise without the prospect of booty. The -feeling of patriotism appeared, indeed, to be extinct in the breasts of -Spaniards, and after a few weeks my band, which was nowhere well -received, having been induced to commit excesses in some of the villages -situated in the open country about Arcos, several parties of royalist -volunteers were formed to proceed in quest of us; and so disheartened -were my followers, that I shortly found my band reduced to a dozen -desperadoes,<a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a> who, like myself, had no hopes of obtaining pardon.</p> - -<p>We betook ourselves, therefore, to the innermost recesses of the Ronda -mountains, moving constantly from place to place, as well to harass our -pursuers, as to avoid being surrounded by them; and such is the -intricacy of the country, and so numerous are the rocky fastnesses of -the smugglers (from whom we were always sure of a good reception), that -we readily baffled all pursuit, and exhausted the patience of our -enemies; and, at length, seizing a favourable opportunity of inflicting -a severe loss upon one of their parties, the patriotic zeal of these -gentry so completely evaporated, that we were left in the undisturbed -command of the SerranÃa.</p> - -<p>All hope of being serviceable to our country at an end, we were -compelled, as a last resource, to adopt the only calling to which we -were suited, viz., that of highway robbers; and for several months every -road between Gibraltar and Malaga, and the inland towns, was, in turn, -subject to our predaceous visits.</p> - -<p>On one occasion a dignitary of the church, whose name and particular -station it would not be prudent of me to mention, fell into our hands. -His attendants, who were of a militant order, defended their master with -great obstinacy. They were eventually overpowered, however, but several -of my men having been badly<a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a> wounded in the scuffle, were so -exasperated, that they determined to shoot all those who had fallen into -our hands, as well as the —— himself; who, though he had not taken an -active part in the combat, had made no attempt to restrain his -pugnacious adherents.</p> - -<p>As soon as our prisoners had been secured, therefore, the portly -ecclesiastic was directed to descend from his sleek mule, deliver up his -money, and prepare for death. He inveighed in eloquent terms at our -barbarity, pointed out to us the iniquity of our proceedings, the -probability of a speedy punishment overtaking us in this life, and the -certainty of having to endure everlasting torments in that which is to -come. But it was to no purpose; indeed, it only tempted my miscreants to -prolong his misery; and, having tied him to a tree, they insisted upon -his blessing them all round, ere they proceeded to shoot him.</p> - -<p>“My children,†said the worthy ——, “my blessing, from the tone in which -you ask it, would serve you little. My life is in the hands of my Maker, -not in your’s; and if it be His pleasure to make you the instruments of -his divine will, so be it. I am prepared; death has no terrors for me; -and may you obtain <i>His</i> forgiveness for the sin you are about to -commit, as readily as I grant you <i>mine</i>. Now, I am ready;†and, looking -upwards to the seat of all<a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a> power and grace, he paid no further -attention to their scoffing.</p> - -<p>“Now Señor Bias,†said one of my men, “since he will give us no more -sport, give the word, and let us finish his business.â€</p> - -<p>“Hold!†exclaimed one of the ——’s suite, addressing me, “Is your name -Blas Maldonado?â€</p> - -<p>“It is: wherefore?â€</p> - -<p>“Because, if such be the case, in his Excellency’s <i>portefuille</i> you -will find a letter addressed to you.â€</p> - -<p>I forthwith proceeded to examine its contents, and, true enough, found a -letter bearing my address. It was from my old friend <i>Jacobo</i>, -requesting, should the —— fall into my hands, that I would suffer him -to pass without molestation, in return for services conferred on him, -which would be explained at our next meeting.<a name="FNanchor_146_146" id="FNanchor_146_146"></a><a href="#Footnote_146_146" class="fnanchor">[146]</a></p> - -<p><i>Jacobo</i>, though we had not met for many months, I knew was in that part -of the country, following the honest calling of a <i>Contrabandista</i>, and -I felt, in honour, bound to grant this request of my old friend and ever -faithful lieutenant. My followers, however, objected <a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a>strongly to spare -either the ——, or his attendants, and a violent altercation ensued; -for, I declared that my life must be taken ere that of any one of our -prisoners.</p> - -<p>Four only of the band sided with me, and we had already assumed a -hostile attitude, when the —— called earnestly upon me to desist.</p> - -<p>“Peril not your sinful souls!†he exclaimed, “by hurrying each other, -unrepented of your manifold sins, into the presence of an offended -Maker.—Take our gold—take every thing we possess; and if those -misguided men cannot be satisfied without blood, let mine flow to save -the lives of these, my followers, who have stronger ties than I to bind -them to this world.â€</p> - -<p>My hot temper, little used to contradiction, would listen, however, to -no terms; my word was pledged that the —— and his attendants should go -free, and my word was never given in vain. I persisted, therefore, in -declaring that those must pass over my body who would touch a hair of -the ——’s head, or take a m<i>aravedi</i> from his purse.... If he chose to -make them a present after he had been released, he was his own master to -do so.</p> - -<p>This delicate hint was eagerly seized by the worthy dignitary’s -attendants, and a large sum of money was distributed amongst the gang, -in which I declined sharing. The ——, meanwhile, remounted his mule, -and, calling me to his side, placed a valuable ring upon my finger.<a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a> “I -am indebted to you for my life, Blas Maldonado,†he said, with the most -lively emotion; “but that is little; I owe to you—what I value -infinitely more—the safety of these faithful attendants, whose -attachment had led them, like Simon Peter, to defend their Pastor. Such -debts cannot be cancelled by any gift I can bestow, and it is not with -that view I offer you this bauble, but a day may come when you may need -an intercessor—if so, return this ring to me by some faithful member of -our holy church, and let me know how I can serve you: or—which is -probable, considering my age and infirmities—should I, ere that comes -to pass, have been called from this world to give an account of my -stewardship; then, fear not to lay it at the foot of Fernando’s throne, -and, in the name of its donor, beg for mercy. I trust you may not have -occasion to require its services, for my prayers shall not be wanting -for your conversion from your present evil ways—my blessing be upon -you—farewell.â€</p> - -<p>How powerful is the influence of religion! Whilst listening to the -worthy ——’s words, my head, which since the days of my childhood no -act of devotion had ever led me to uncover, was bared as if by instinct; -and, to receive the blessing he had called down upon me, I humbled -myself to the earth!</p> - -<p>Although those of the band who had so vehemently<a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a> opposed sparing -the ——’s life had finally been satisfied with the <i>donation</i> bestowed -upon them, yet their disobedience made me determine on ejecting them -from my band, and accordingly, accompanied only by my four supporters in -the late dispute, I proceeded to my old rendezvous, Montejaque, hoping -to pick up some recruits. I purposed, also, availing myself of the first -favourable opportunity to remove my wife and child to that place, it -being more conveniently situated, and offering greater security than -even Cañete la Real.</p> - -<p>We had been there but a few days, when I received a letter without a -signature, but in the well-known characters of my bosom friend, Miguel -Clavijo, under whose protection I had placed my wife and child, giving -warning of impending danger to them. There was yet time to avert it, my -correspondent concluded, but in twenty-four hours from the date of this -communication, their fate would probably be sealed.</p> - -<p>It was within two hours of sunset when I received this letter, and eight -hours had already elapsed since it had been written. Not a moment, -therefore, was to be lost. I procured a pillion, and, placing it on an -active horse, set off with all possible haste for Cañete, keeping along -the course of the river Ariate to avoid the town of Ronda, and -traversing at full speed the<a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a> village bearing the name of the stream, in -order to escape recognition.</p> - -<p>I reached the rounded summit of the chain of hills which forms the -northern boundary of the cultivated valley of Ronda, just as the sun was -sinking behind the western mountains; and, checking my horse to give him -a few moments’ breath ere commencing the rugged descent on the opposite -side, I turned round to see if all were quiet in the wide-spread plain I -had just traversed, and that no one was following my traces. At this -moment the last ray of the glorious luminary lit upon the distant town -of Grazalema. The remarkable coincidence of the warning of treason I had -received there on this very day, twelve years before, came vividly to -mind, and with it the recollection of my extraordinary escape from the -snare laid for me—the debt of gratitude due to her who had risked her -life, and sacrificed her honour to save me—the cruelty with which my -preserver had been treated. Poor abandoned Paca! From the moment of our -angry separation, never had I once taken the trouble of enquiring what -had been her fate. Scarcely, indeed, had I ever bestowed a thought upon -her.</p> - -<p>I resumed my way down the rough descent, pondering, for the first time -in my life, on the ingratitude I had been guilty of, and had reached -some high cliffs that border the road<a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a> beneath the village of La Cuera -del Becerro, when a pistol was discharged within a few yards of me, and, -looking up, I saw a witchlike figure standing on the edge of the -precipice overhanging the path—It was Paca!</p> - -<p>Had my eyes wished to deceive me, she would not have allowed them, for, -with a wild, demonaical laugh, she screamed out “<i>Adelante, Adelante, -embustero desalmado!</i><a name="FNanchor_147_147" id="FNanchor_147_147"></a><a href="#Footnote_147_147" class="fnanchor">[147]</a>—You will yet be in time to dig the grave for -your child, though too late to snatch your <i>wife</i> from the arms of her -paramour. Forward, forward; recollect the old saying, ‘<i>no hay boda, sin -tornabóda</i>;’<a name="FNanchor_148_148" id="FNanchor_148_148"></a><a href="#Footnote_148_148" class="fnanchor">[148]</a> you may have forgotten Paca of <i>Benaocaz</i>, but I shall -never forget Blas Maldonado. The creditor has ever a better memory than -the debtor. I have paid myself now, however—ride on, and see the -receipt I have left for you at Cañete—ha, ha, ha!â€</p> - -<p>There was something perfectly fiendish in her laughter. A horrible -presentiment possessed me.—With a hand tremulous with passion, I drew -forth a pistol and fired. Paca staggered, and fell backwards; but, not -waiting to see if she were killed, I put spurs to my horse, and hurried -forward to Cañete.</p> - -<p>I rode straight to the house where I had left my wife, but it was -uninhabited. I turned from<a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a> it with a shudder, and proceeded to the -abode of my faithful friend Clavijo, who was confined to his bed with -ague. He received me with a face foreboding evil.</p> - -<p>“Where is my wife?†I hastily demanded—“my child, where is he?â€</p> - -<p>“Alas!†he replied, “why came you not earlier?â€</p> - -<p>“Earlier! how could that be? It is but twelve hours since your summons -was penned! Tell me, I implore you—what horrible misfortune has -befallen?â€</p> - -<p>“But twelve hours, say you?†exclaimed Clavijo; “It is now <i>three days</i> -since I intrusted my letter to Paca to convey to you! she it was who -informed me of the plot to carry off your wife, (which has been but too -truly effected,) and offered to be herself the bearer of my letter to -you at Montejaque, where she assured me you were. I have not seen her -since, and fancied she had not succeeded in finding you.â€</p> - -<p>I stood stupified whilst listening to this explanation—for such it was -to me; the truth, the horrible truth, at once flashing upon me—and -then, without waiting to obtain further information from the bed-ridden -Miguel, hastened to the late residence of my wife, which one of his -domestics pointed out to me. In few words, I explained to its owner the -object of my visit, begging for information concerning my child.<a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a> “This -will explain all, Señor Blas,†she replied, taking a letter from a -cupboard, and placing it in my hands; “would to God it had been in my -power to prevent what has happened.â€</p> - -<p>The letter was in my wife’s hand-writing, I tore it open, and to my -astonishment read as follows.</p> - -<p>“Monster of iniquity! The veil that has but too long concealed thy -unequalled crimes from the eyes of a confiding woman, has been rudely -torn aside. Murderer of my brother! Apostate! Traitor! Adulterer! -receive at my hands the first stroke of the Almighty’s anger. The -illegitimate offspring of our intercourse lies a mangled corpse upon our -adulterous bed! Yes, unparalleled villain; my hand, like thine own, is -stained with the blood of my child—<i>our</i> child. But on thy head rests -the sin. In a moment of delirium, produced by the sight of my husband, -and the knowledge of thy atrocious crimes, the horrid deed was -committed. I leave thee to the pangs of remorse. I cannot curse thee. -Even with the bleached corpse of my poor boy before me, I cannot bring -myself to call down a heavy punishment upon thee. We shall never meet -again; but fly instantly and save thyself if possible; and may the -Almighty Being, whose every command thou hast violated, extend the term -of thy life for repentance; and may a blessed Saviour and the holy -saints, whose mediation<a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a> thou hast ever derided, intercede for the -salvation of thy sinful soul.â€</p> - -<p>My first feeling on reading this epistle was incredulity! <i>I</i>, who had -stopped at no crime to gratify any evil passion; even I could not -persuade myself that it was not a forgery, nor believe that one so -gentle, so affectionate, as Engracia, could be guilty of so diabolical -an act. I took up a lamp and walked composedly to the adjoining chamber, -to satisfy my doubts. With a steady hand I drew aside the curtain of the -bed—nothing was visible. A thrill of delight ran through my veins. I -tore off the counterpane, and—horrible revulsion of -feeling!—discovered my boy, my darling boy, with anguish depicted in -every feature, and every muscle contracted with excessive suffering; a -cold—black—fetid—putrid corpse!</p> - -<p>Until that moment I had not known the full extent to which the chords of -the human heart are capable of being stretched. All my love of life had -centred in that child. Each of his infantile endearments came fresh upon -my memory. The pangs of jealousy and hate, too, had never before been so -acutely felt; and, lastly, I thought of my Fernando’s dying malediction! -It seemed as if a poisoned dart had pierced to the very innermost recess -of the heart, and that my envenomed blood waited but its extraction, to -gush forth in one irrepressible flood.<a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a></p> - -<p>I stood speechless—awe-struck—motionless; but not yet humbled. I -thought of Paca, and a curse rose to my throat; but ere I had time to -give it utterance, a noise, as of many persons assembled at the door of -the house, attracted my attention, and I heard an unknown voice say, -“This, <i>Tio</i>, you are sure is the house? Then in with you, comrades, -without ceremony, and bring out every soul you may find there, dead or -alive.â€</p> - -<p>In another moment the door was broken open and a party of armed men -rushed in. My precaution of extinguishing the lamp was vain, as several -of them bore blazing torches. I rushed to a back window of the inner -apartment, and drew forth a pistol to keep them at bay whilst I effected -my escape by it. It had the desired effect. Not one of the dastard crew -would approach to lay his hand upon me. The shutter was already thrown -open; the strength of desperation had enabled me to tear down one of the -iron bars of the <i>reja</i>; and one foot rested on the window-sill; when, -rushing past the soldiers, a ghost-like female figure, whose face was -bound up in a cloth clotted with gore, seized me in her convulsive -grasp, and in a half-articulate scream cried, “Wretch! you shall not so -escape me!"—It was Paca! I tried in vain to shake her off; she clung to -me with the pertinacity of a vampire, I placed the muzzle of<a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a> my pistol -to her temple, and pulled the trigger; but, in my hurry, I had drawn -that which I had already fired at her. I attempted to snatch another -from my belt, but the soldiers taking courage rushed forward and -overpowered me, just as Paca, from whose mouth I now perceived blood was -rapidly issuing, fell exhausted upon the floor.</p> - -<p>The commander of the party was now called in, who gave directions for a -priest and a surgeon to be instantly sent for, and that I should be -bound hand and foot with cords. They took the bedding from under the -corpse of my son to form a rest for Paca, whose life seemed ebbing -rapidly.</p> - -<p>In a few minutes the surgeon arrived, and shortly after a tinkling bell -announced the approach of the Host. The doctor having examined Paca’s -wounds, pronounced them to have been inflicted by the discharge of some -weapon loaded with slugs, one of which had fractured her jaw-bone, -whilst another had inflicted a wound that occasioned an inward flow of -blood which threatened immediate dissolution, and consequently the -services of the church were more likely to be beneficial than his own. -The priest then approached, and offered the last and cheering -consolation that our holy religion offers to a dying penitent.</p> - -<p>Paca opened her now lustreless eyes, and<a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a> with a motion of impatience, -putting aside the proffered cup, pointed to me. “There is my murderer,†-she muttered in broken accents; “Villain! monster! my vengeance is at -length complete. I leave you in the hands of justice, and die ... -happy.†An agonized writhe belied her assertion. She never spoke after, -but continued groaning whilst the worthy priest attempted to call her -attention to her approaching end.</p> - -<p>I have not much more to add to my history. It appeared, by what I learnt -afterwards, that Beltran had most miraculously escaped death, when -thrown from the rock of Montejaque, and having been discovered by some -French soldiers who made an attack upon the place a few days afterwards, -was conveyed to Ronda, when the loss of his ears led to his being -recognised by the French governor, who had, in the meanwhile, received -my <i>present</i>, and discovered the trick I had played him.</p> - -<p>Beltran’s tale thus proved to have been the true one, he was -well-treated, and sent with a party of prisoners to France, where he -remained until the conclusion of the war. He was then on his way back to -his native country, in company with several other Spaniards, when he was -arrested as being an accomplice, “<i>sans préméditation</i>,†in a robbery, -attended with loss of life, and was sentenced to ten years’ -imprisonment;<a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a> but, before this term was fully completed, he obtained -his release, returned to Spain, and proceeding immediately to his native -province, there first learnt that Engracia had become my wife.</p> - -<p>I think, by the way, that in the former part of my narrative I omitted -to mention—for fully persuaded as I <i>then</i> was of Beltran’s death, it -was a matter of no moment—that previous to Engracia’s becoming my wife, -she informed me of her having, at the urgent instances of her brother -Melchor, consented to a private marriage with my rival; and from this -circumstance she had expressed the greatest anxiety to ascertain his -fate with certainty, and had delayed for so long a period bestowing her -hand upon me.</p> - -<p>This marriage with Beltran had taken place at Gaucin within an hour of -my departure from that town, after making the arrangements for our -combined attack on Ronda; and had been strongly advocated by Melchor, -from an apprehension that, should any thing happen to him in the -approaching conflict, his elder brother, Alonzo, who was kept in perfect -ignorance of this proceeding, would abandon his friend Beltran, and -insist on their sister’s marrying me, whom he (Melchor) detested.</p> - -<p>I, however, as you are aware, had every reason to believe that Beltran -had been killed by his fall from the rock of Montejaque; and therefore, -on<a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a> eventually eliciting from Engracia the reason of her reluctance to -marry me, I had no scruple in declaring that Beltran’s dead body had -been seen rolling down the shallow pebbly bed of the Guadiaro, after our -action with the French. The crime I had led her to commit was -consequently unintentional. Would I could as easily acquit myself of -another her letter accused me of, namely, that of being the murderer of -her brother: for, through my machinations was his death brought about.</p> - -<p>Whilst the crop-eared traitor, Beltran, (the <i>Tio’s</i> revengeful feelings -were not so entirely allayed as to prevent his bestowing an occasional -term of reproach on those who had thwarted his prosperous career of -iniquity) was skulking about the mountains, endeavouring to obtain -tidings of his re-married wife, chance threw him in the way of Paca, -engaged in a similar pursuit, but with a very different purpose.</p> - -<p>This wretched woman had, for many years after our separation, been the -inmate of a mad-house; but, at length, her keepers finding that, -excepting on the subject of her supposed wrongs, she was perfectly -tractable, became careless of watching her, and she effected her escape.</p> - -<p>The sole object of this vindictive creature’s life appears now to have -been to wreak vengeance upon me. But not satisfied with the mere death -of her victim, she sought first to<a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a> torture him with worldly pangs; and -informed that Engracia lived, and had given birth to a son, whom I loved -with a more fervent affection than even the mother, she determined -<i>they</i> should first be sacrificed to her revenge.</p> - -<p>On discovering Beltran alive, however, a scheme yet more hellishly -devised entered her imagination; in the execution of which he became a -willing agent, though in some degree her dupe.</p> - -<p>Well acquainted with all my haunts, she soon got upon my track; and that -discovered, had little difficulty in finding out the hiding-place of -Engracia. Making a shrewd guess at the person under whose protection I -had placed my wife and child, she forthwith presented herself to Don -Miguel, and informed him that a plot was laid, and on the eve of -execution, to carry them both off; adding, that it might yet be -frustrated if I could but arrive at Cañete within twenty-four -hours—that she knew where I then was, and would undertake to have any -warning conveyed to me which his prudence might suggest—that her -messenger was sure, but still the utmost caution, as well as despatch, -was necessary.</p> - -<p>Miguel, quite taken by surprise, and unable from illness to leave his -bed, wrote the short note which has already been given; and this point -gained, Paca proceeded to the nearest<a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a> town to give information to the -authorities that the bandit Blas, whom they were seeking in every -direction, was to be at Cañete la Real on a certain night; and proposed, -if a detachment of troops was sent quietly to the neighbouring village -of El Becerro, that she would repair thither at the proper time, and -conduct the soldiers to the traitor’s very lair.</p> - -<p>This proposal was readily acceded to, and Paca then repaired to Cañete, -to tell Miguel not to be uneasy as to the result of his message to me, -as, since sending it, she had ascertained on good authority that -something had occurred to postpone the elopement of Engracia for a day -or two.</p> - -<p>Bending her steps thence to where Beltran was anxiously awaiting her -return, she told him that after much difficulty she had discovered -Engracia was at Cañete; he had therefore but to proceed there after -dark, provided with the means of carrying her off. But this, she -informed him, must be done with the utmost celerity and circumspection, -as the inhabitants of the place were so desperate a set, and so attached -to me, that, if they got the slightest inkling of what was going -forward, they certainly would handle him very roughly; and the -authorities, unless backed by a body of troops, would be afraid to -interfere in his behalf.</p> - -<p>If, however, she pursued, he preferred waiting<a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a> until an escort could be -procured, that he might avoid all personal risk—but delays were -dangerous, for frequently</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0"><i>"De la mano a la boca</i><br /></span> -<span class="i2"><i>se cae la sopa.</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_149_149" id="FNanchor_149_149"></a><a href="#Footnote_149_149" class="fnanchor">[149]</a><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The law, too, was uncertain.—He thought so also, and they proceeded -together to Cañete.</p> - -<p>Beltran, imagining that Paca had informed Engracia of his being alive, -conceived that no intimation of his coming was requisite; but such was -not the case, and the shock given by his unexpected visit caused the -aberration of mind which led the hapless Engracia to commit the horrid -crime of infanticide; and, in the state of inanition that followed, she -was carried out of the town.</p> - -<p>The letter to me was written afterwards, and delivered to the old woman -of the house by Paca, the last act of whose fiendish plot now commenced.</p> - -<p>Altering the date of Miguel’s letter, so as to make it correspond with -the time arranged for the arrival of the troops at <i>La Cueva del -Becerro</i>, she forwarded it to me at Montejaque—what followed has -already been stated.</p> - -<p>These details became known on my trial, which took place shortly -afterwards. I was condemned to suffer death by the <i>garrote</i>. The<a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a> day -was fixed; I sent for a priest, and entrusting to him the ring given me -by the ——, begged he would forward it without delay to Madrid.</p> - -<p>This was done, but day after day passed without bringing any answer to -my appeal. At first I had been so sanguine as to the result, that I was -affected but little at my position, for I knew how easily a pardon is -obtained in Spain, when application is made in the proper quarter; but, -as the fatal time approached, the darkest despair took possession of my -soul.</p> - -<p>I cannot indeed convey to you, Don Carlos, an adequate idea of the -horrible torments I endured during the last few days preceding that -fixed for my execution. The pious father Ignacio—he has since (sainted -soul!) been taken from this earth, and is now, I trust, my intercessor -in heaven—was unremitting in his endeavours to bring me to repentance; -but Satan was yet strong within me, and my heart remained hardened. The -pardon came not, and I exclaimed against the justness of the Most High: -I, whom no considerations of justice had influenced in any one action of -my life—who had recklessly transgressed each of His commandments!</p> - -<p>“We must not ask for <i>justice</i> at the hands of the Almighty,†urged -Ignacio; “We are all born in sin, in sin we all live; <i>mercy</i> is what we -must pray for."<a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a></p> - -<p>“Mercy!†I exclaimed; “<i>Why</i> was I born in sin? Why led to commit crime? -Why....â€</p> - -<p>“Your unbridled passions led you to transgress the laws of your -Creator,†replied Ignacio; “be thankful that you were not cut short in -your mad career, and that time has been allowed you for repentance.â€</p> - -<p>“Repent!—I cannot—I have ever denied, I cannot now believe in the -existence of a Maker.â€</p> - -<p>“Unhappy man!†ejaculated the worthy priest; “unhappy, impious, -inconsistent man! You deny the existence of the Being against whose -justice your voice was raised e’en now in reproaches! Do you not look -forward to behold again to-morrow the bright luminary round which this -atom of a world revolves? Look on that pale moon, which perhaps you now -see rising for the last time—Observe that fiery meteor which has this -moment dashed through the wondrous, boundless firmament; and ask -yourself if this admirable system can be the effect of accident? Do the -trees yearly yield us their fruits by chance? Is the punctual return of -the seasons a mere casualty? If so, how is it that this accidental -atom—this globe we inhabit, has so long held together <i>without</i> -accident? Has any work of man, however cunningly devised, in like manner -withstood the effects of time? Is not the protecting hand of the Deity -clearly perceptible in the unvarying continuance of these phenomena?<a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a></p> - -<p>“My son, had you studied the Holy Scriptures more, and the philosophy of -Voltaire and other infidels less, you would not have been brought to -this strait; neither would you have shocked my ears with a confession, -which, a few years since, would have consigned you to the dungeons of -the Inquisition. Repent! unhappy man, repent! and save your soul—there -is still time. Nay, an omnipotent Maker may even yet think fit to -prolong your life here below, for the perfection of this good work, if -you will but pray to him in all sincerity.â€</p> - -<p>The pious father saw that I was touched, and, pouring in promises of -future happiness, brought me to reflect. I begged him to be with me -early on the following morning. He came; I had passed the night in -prayer; and now unburdened my mind, by making to him a full confession -of my sins.</p> - -<p>Ignacio remained comforting me, until the hour of the arrival of the -post, when he repaired, as usual, to the <i>Corregidor</i>, to ascertain -whether any pardon had reached him. He returned not, however. Eleven -o’clock was the hour fixed for my execution; it came, but still Ignacio -did not appear. Hours passed away, and not a soul visited me; the sun -again sank below the horizon, and I yet lived.</p> - -<p>It was evident—so, at least, I thought—that a pardon had arrived, and -my spirits rose accordingly.<a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a> At length, towards nightfall, Ignacio -entered my cell. “Blas,†he said, “though it would appear there is no -longer a chance of your receiving a pardon, yet your life has been -miraculously spared this day, to give you time for repentance. I trust -you have turned it to good account.â€</p> - -<p>“How!†I exclaimed, “have I not been pardoned? What, then, has -occasioned this delay?â€</p> - -<p>“You owe your life,†he replied, “to a rumour, that a band of robbers -had appeared in the vicinity—some of your old friends, it was -thought—which caused all the troops to be sent out in pursuit. They -have but now returned, and to-morrow you will be executed.â€</p> - -<p>A pang of withering disappointment ran through me, for I had confidently -imagined that the delay had been the consequence of the arrival of a -pardon, and Satan once more obtained dominion over me.</p> - -<p>Ignacio read in my overcast countenance the change his information had -wrought in my feelings. “Your repentance is not sincere, my son,†he -observed. “Alas! when death is in sight, how fondly do we cling to this -earth. And yet you have braved death in the field a thousand times!â€</p> - -<p>“Father,†I replied, “it is not death I fear—it is the disgrace of a -public execution."<a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a></p> - -<p>“What absurd sophistry is this?†said he. “Can one, who but yesterday -denied the existence of a future state, care for one moment <i>how</i> he -quits this world, or regard the opinion of those he leaves behind in -it?—as well might he be fearful of losing the good opinion of a herd of -swine. Away with such fine-spun subtilties—it is the prospect of -meeting your Maker face to face that makes you quail. You are yet but -ill prepared, I see. Oh! may He yet mercifully extend your life, if but -a short span.â€</p> - -<p>The morrow came, but the pious Ignacio’s prayer remained apparently -unheard. He repaired to my call soon after the arrival of the post, to -exhort and prepare me. Alas! I was as much in want of his assistance as -ever, for I had all along clung to the hope of obtaining a pardon -through the influence of the ——, and was more inclined to rail than to -pray.</p> - -<p>A party of soldiers at length arrived, and I was led off in chains to -the place of execution. A vast crowd was assembled from all the -neighbouring towns to witness my punishment. Ignacio addressed the -multitude on our way, saying, I was a repentant sinner, and implored the -prayers of all good Christians. For myself I said not a word, and the -crowd gave no signs of either gratification or commiseration. I mounted -the scaffold, the fatal instrument was<a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a> placed round my throat, a curse -was yet on my lips, when a distant shout attracted the Father’s -attention. Laying a hand upon the arm of the executioner to stay his -proceedings, he watched with eager eyes the signs of some one who was -approaching at a rapid pace, holding a paper high in the air. The paper -was handed to Ignacio by the breathless messenger. “It is a pardon,†he -exclaimed; “your life is miraculously spared—it has been sent express -from the Escurial! Return your thanks, to Him, who has been pleased thus -to extend his mercy towards you.â€</p> - -<p>I had already sunk on my knees—I prayed earnestly for the first time in -my life.</p> - -<p>Marvellously, indeed, had my life been preserved. But for the rumoured -appearance of the band of robbers, I should have suffered death the day -before; again, this day, but for Ignacio’s presence, the pardon would -have arrived too late.</p> - -<p>I was immediately released, but a fever, caused, probably, by my -previously excited feelings, confined me to my bed for many weeks. I -became delirious, and my life was despaired of. Ignacio tended me like a -brother. A second time he saved my life; but, alas! he himself -contracted the contagious disorder, and fell a victim to his warm and -disinterested friendship.<a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a></p> - -<p>I expended all I was worth in masses for his soul, and was once more -thrown upon the world to seek a livelihood.</p> - -<p>I thought of applying to the —— to procure me some employment, but -learnt that he too had closed his mortal career. The fever had given -such a shock to my constitution, that old age, I may say, came suddenly -upon me, and to gain a livelihood by hard labour was out of the -question. I had no relations; my friends were all new; so that I had no -claims on any one: my present occupation presented itself, as the only -one I was fit for; and, thank God, it enables me to earn my bread -without begging, and even to lay by a little store for pious -purposes:—for much of my time is devoted to the performance of penances -and austerities, to expiate the sins of my past life. Thrice, on my -knees, have I ascended to the <i>Ermita</i> you see there peeping through the -clouds gathered round the peaks of the Sierra Morena. Once, too, have I -walked barefoot to prostrate myself before the <i>Santa faz</i><a name="FNanchor_150_150" id="FNanchor_150_150"></a><a href="#Footnote_150_150" class="fnanchor">[150]</a> of Jaen; -and this winter (God willing!) I purpose visiting the most holy shrine -of <i>Sant’ Iago de Compostela</i>.</p> - -<p>It is a long journey, and will, probably, be my last pilgrimage, for I -feel myself sinking fast.<a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a></p> - -<p>You have now had the history of my whole life, Don Carlos—I wish it -could be published. It might, probably, warn my fellow-creatures to rest -contented with the lot to which it has pleased God to call them; and, if -so, I may have lived to some purpose.<a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">UNFORESEEN DIFFICULTIES IN PROCEEDING TO MADRID—DEATH OF KING -FERDINAND—CHANGE IN OUR PLANS—ROAD TO -ANDUJAR—ALCOLEA—MONTORO—PORCUNA—ANDUJAR—ARJONA—TORRE -XIMENO—DIFFICULTY OF GAINING ADMISSION—SUCCESS OF A -STRATAGEM—CONSTERNATION OF THE AUTHORITIES—SPANISH ADHERENCE TO -FORMS—CONTRASTS—JAEN—DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE, CITY, AND -CATHEDRAL—LA SANTA FAZ—ROAD TO GRANADA—OUR KNIGHTLY -ATTENDANT—PARADOR DE SAN RAFAEL—HOSPITABLE FARMER—ASTONISHMENT -OF THE NATIVES—GRANADA—EL SOTO DE ROMA—LOJA—VENTA DE -DORNEJO—COLMENAR—FINE SCENERY—ROAD FROM MALAGA TO ANTEQUERA, AND -DESCRIPTION OF THAT CITY.</p></div> - -<p>I <small>FOUND</small> Cordoba the same dull, sultry, loyal city as at the period of my -former visit; after devoting a day, therefore, to the incomparable -<i>Mezquita</i>, we repaired to the police office to redeem our passports, -and have them <i>visé</i> for Madrid, purposing to proceed to the capital by -<i>Diligence</i>. We there learnt, however, that our route from Gibraltar, -having passed <i>near</i> the district wherein the cholera had appeared, the -public safety demanded that our journey should be continued on -horseback, and, moreover, that each day’s ride should not exceed eight -leagues!<a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a></p> - -<p>The prospect of a fortnight’s baking on the parched plains of La Mancha -and Castile, which this preposterous precaution held out, was, of -itself, enough to make any one <i>crusty</i>; but the additional vexation of -finding that all our precautions had been unavailing, all our -information erroneous, made us return to the <i>posada</i>, thoroughly out of -humour with <i>Las Cosas de España</i>. Our landlord comforted us, however, -by engaging—if we would but wait patiently for a few days, and leave -the business entirely in his hands—to get matters arranged so that we -might yet proceed on to Madrid by the diligence; and, knowing the wheels -within wheels by which Spanish affairs of state are put in motion, we -willingly came to this compromise, and remained quietly paying him for -our breakfasts and dinners during the best part of a week, receiving -each day renewed assurances that every thing was proceeding -“<i>corriente</i>.â€</p> - -<p>The second day after our arrival at Cordoba, the inhabitants were moved -to an unusual degree of excitement, in consequence of an <i>estafette</i> -having passed through the city during the night, bearing despatches from -Madrid to the Captain General of the Province, and rumours were afloat -that the king was so seriously ill as to occasion great fears for his -life; and, on the following day, public anxiety was yet further excited -by a report that the Captain General<a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a> had passed through Cordoba on his -way to the capital; leading to the general belief that Ferdinand was -actually dead.</p> - -<p>In the evening our host came to us with a very long face, and informed -us, confidentially, that such was the case, though, for political -reasons, it had been deemed prudent not to make the melancholy news -public; adding, that, in consequence of this unforeseen and unfortunate -event, he regretted to say the authorities had been seized with such a -panic, that he had altogether failed in his endeavour to have the stain -effaced from our bill of health. Nevertheless, he said, he hoped yet to -be able to arrange matters so as to ensure our being received into the -diligence, <i>without any questions being asked</i> at Andujar, if we would -but remain quietly where we were for a few days longer, and then proceed -to that place on horseback.</p> - -<p>The news received from Madrid had, however, decided us to give up the -plan of continuing our journey thither. I knew enough of Spain to -foresee what would be the result of all the intrigues which had been -carried on behind the curtains of the imbecile Ferdinand’s death-bed.</p> - -<p>“You are quite right, Señor,†said Blas, to whom I made known our change -of plans, “we shall now have a disputed succession, for, be assured, Don -Carlos is not the man to forego<a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a> his just rights without a -struggle.—Alas! this only was wanting to fill my unhappy country’s cup -of misery to overflowing.â€</p> - -<p>Although thus unwillingly forced to abandon the project of crossing the -Sierra Morena, we determined, whilst the country yet remained quiet, to -extend our tour further to the eastward, and, by proceeding along the -<i>arrecife</i> to Madrid as far as Andujar, gain the road which leads from -thence to Jaen; a city, which the want of practicable roads leading from -it to the south has, until late years (during which that deficiency has -been remedied), been very rarely visited by travellers.</p> - -<p>Recommending Señor Blas to postpone his projected barefoot pilgrimage -into Gallicia, until the rainy season had set in, and made the roads -soft, we departed from Cordoba by the great post route to the capital, -which, as far as Alcolea, is conducted along the right bank of the -GuadalquivÃr, and is a fine, broad, and well-kept gravel road.</p> - -<p>Alcolea is seven miles from Cordoba. It is a small village of but twenty -or thirty houses, and, in the opinion of Florez, occupies the site of -the ancient town of Arva. The <i>arrecife</i> here crosses to the left bank -of the river by a handsome marble bridge, of eighteen arches, built in -1788-92. The passage of this bridge was obstinately contested by the -Spaniards, in the<a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a> campaign of 1808, but a party of the French, which -had crossed the river at Montoro, falling upon its defenders in flank, -forced them to retreat.</p> - -<p>From hence to Carpio is ten miles. The country is undulated, and the -road—along which there is not a single village, and scarcely half a -dozen houses—keeps within sight of the GuadalquivÃr the whole way, -affording many pleasing views of the winding stream and its overhanging -woods and olive groves.</p> - -<p>The town of Carpio is left about a quarter of a mile off, on the right. -It is situated on a hill, and by some is supposed to be the ancient city -of Corbulo. Pliny, however, distinctly says that place was <i>below</i> -Cordoba, and Florez fixes it in the vicinity of Palma.</p> - -<p>From Carpio to Aldea del Rio is twelve miles, the country continuing -much the same as heretofore. At three miles, the road reaches the small -town of Pedro Abad (or Perabad) in the vicinity of which is a -<i>despoblado</i>,<a name="FNanchor_151_151" id="FNanchor_151_151"></a><a href="#Footnote_151_151" class="fnanchor">[151]</a> where various medals and vestiges have been found -that determine it to be the site of Sacili, mentioned by Pliny.</p> - -<p>Proceeding onwards, the town of Bujalance may occasionally be seen on -the right, distant about a league and a half from the GuadalquivÃr; and -at seven miles from Carpio, we<a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a> passed Montoro, a large town situated on -the margin of the river, and about three quarters of a mile to the left -of the <i>arrecife</i>. This town has been determined by antiquaries to be -Ripepora.</p> - -<p>The country about Aldea del Rio is rather pretty, and the place has a -thriving look compared with the miserable towns we had lately seen; its -population is about 1,800 souls. We halted here for the night, and found -the <i>posada</i> most wretched.</p> - -<p>At a distance of nine (geographic) miles from Aldea del Rio, in a -south-east direction, is the town of Porcuna; its situation, Florez -justly observes, agreeing so well with that of Obulco, as given both by -Strabo<a name="FNanchor_152_152" id="FNanchor_152_152"></a><a href="#Footnote_152_152" class="fnanchor">[152]</a> and Pliny,<a name="FNanchor_153_153" id="FNanchor_153_153"></a><a href="#Footnote_153_153" class="fnanchor">[153]</a> as to leave no doubt of their identity. -Inscriptions, monuments, coins, &c., which have been found there, quite -confirm this opinion, and an important point is thus gained in tracing -the operations of Cæsar in his last campaign against the sons of Pompey; -since Obulco, which he is mentioned as having reached in twenty-seven -days from Rome, may be considered the advanced post of the country that -was favourable to his cause.</p> - -<p>The present ignoble name of the town—Porcuna,—appears to have been -bestowed upon it<a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a> from the extraordinary fecundity of a <i>sow</i>; an -inscription, commemorative of the birth of thirty young pigs at one -litter, being preserved to this day in the church of the Benedictine -friars, and is thus worded:—</p> - -<p class="c"><small> -C. CORNELIVS. C. F.<br /> -CN. GAL. CÆSO.<br /> -AED. FLAMEN. II. VIR<br /> -MVNICIPII. PONTIF<br /> -C. CORN. CÆSO. F.<br /> -SACERDOS. GENT. MVNICIPII<br /> -SCROFAM CVM PORCIS XXX<br /> -IMPENSA IPSORVM.<br /> -D. D.</small></p> - -<p>From Aldea del Rio to Andujar is fourteen miles, making the whole -distance from Cordoba to that place forty-three miles. The country is -very gently undulated, and principally under tillage; the ride, however, -is dreary, there being but one house on the road.</p> - -<p>Andujar stands altogether on the right bank of the GuadalquivÃr, which -is crossed by a bridge of nine arches. The town is reputed to contain a -population of 12,000 souls, but that number is a manifest exaggeration. -It is encompassed by old Roman walls, and defended by an ancient castle, -and is celebrated for its manufacture of pottery. It is, nevertheless, a -dilapidated, impoverished looking place.</p> - -<p>By some Andujar is supposed to be the Illiturgi,<a name="FNanchor_154_154" id="FNanchor_154_154"></a><a href="#Footnote_154_154" class="fnanchor">[154]</a> or, as it is -otherwise written, Illurtigis of<a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a> the ancient historians; but Florez -fixes the site of that city two leagues higher up, but on the same bank -of the GuadalquivÃr, and imagines Andujar to be Ipasturgi. The locality -of the existing town certainly but ill agrees with the description of -Illurtigis given by Livy, for no part of Andujar is “covered by a high -rock.â€<a name="FNanchor_155_155" id="FNanchor_155_155"></a><a href="#Footnote_155_155" class="fnanchor">[155]</a></p> - -<p>The <i>arrecife</i> to Madrid leaves the banks of the GuadalquivÃr at -Andujar, striking inland to Baylen, and thence across the Sierra Morena -by the pass of <i>Despeña Perros</i>. After devoting a few hours to exploring -the old walls of the town, we recrossed the river, and bent our steps -towards Granada, taking the road to Jaen.</p> - -<p>We proceeded that afternoon to Torre Ximena, twenty miles from Andujar. -The country is undulated, and mostly under cultivation. The road is—or, -more properly, I should say, perhaps, the places upon the road are—very -incorrectly laid down on the Spanish maps; for, instead of being -scattered east and west over the face of the country, they are so nearly -in line, as to make the general direction of the road nearly straight. -Though but a cross-country track, it is tolerably good throughout. The -first town it visits is Arjona, said to be the ancient Urgao, or -Virgao.<a name="FNanchor_156_156" id="FNanchor_156_156"></a><a href="#Footnote_156_156" class="fnanchor">[156]</a> It is a poor place, of some twelve or fifteen hundred -inhabitants, and distant seven miles from the GuadalquivÃr.<a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a></p> - -<p>Five miles beyond Arjona, but lying half pistol shot off the road to the -right, is the miserable little village of Escañuela; and three miles -further on, the equally wretched town of Villa Don Pardo. From hence to -Torre Ximeno (five miles) the road traverses a vast plain, but, ere we -had proceeded half way, night overtook us, and on reaching the town we -found all the entrances most carefully closed.</p> - -<p>After making various attempts to gain admission—groping our way from -one barricade to another, until we had nearly completed the circuit of -the town—we perceived a light glimmering at some little distance in the -country, and hoping it proceeded from some <i>rancha</i>, where we might -obtain shelter from an approaching storm, if not accommodation for the -night, we spurred our jaded animals towards it as fast as the ruggedness -of the ground would admit. It proved, however, to be only the remains of -a fire made for the purpose of destroying weeds; but a peasant lad, who -was warming his evening meal over the expiring embers, pointed out a -path leading to one of the town gates, at which, he said, we might, -perhaps, gain admission.</p> - -<p>Following his directions, we found the gate without much trouble; but a -difficulty now arose that promised to be of a more insuperable nature, -namely, that of <i>awaking the guard</i>, for<a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a> the combined efforts of our -voices proved quite inadequate to the purpose.</p> - -<p>It was very vexatious, but irresistibly ludicrous; and, prompted by this -mixed feeling of wrath and merriment, we determined to try what effect -would be produced by a general discharge of our pistols, and, -accordingly riding close up to the gate, fired a volley in the air.</p> - -<p>A tremendous discharge of <i>carajos!</i> responded to our <i>salvo</i>, and -soldiers, policemen, custom-house officers, and health-officers, sallied -forth, helter skelter, from the guard-house and adjacent dwellings, -making off “with the very extremest inch of possibility,†under the -impression that the place was attacked.</p> - -<p>One <i>aduanero</i>, however, more enterprising and valiant than the rest, -ventured to peep through the bars of the stockade and demand our -business; on learning which he encouragingly invited the <i>urbanos</i> to -return to their <i>military duty</i>, whilst he despatched a messenger to the -<i>Alcalde</i> to request instructions for their further proceedings.</p> - -<p>We were subjected meanwhile to a most vexatious detention, occasioned by -various causes. Firstly, because the village dictator was nowhere to be -found. He had—so it eventually turned out—started from his comfortable -seat at the fire of the <i>posada</i> (where, surrounded by a knot of -politicians, he was discussing the justice<a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a> of abrogating the Salique -law), at the first report of our fire-arms, and, wrapping his cloak -around him, had rushed into the street, declaring his intention of -meeting death like the last of the Palæologi, rather than be recognised -and spared, to grace the triumph of a victorious enemy. Then we had to -wait for the key of the gate, which had been carried off in the pocket -of one of the runaway soldiers; and, lastly, for a light, the guard-lamp -having been overturned in the general confusion, and all the oil spilt.</p> - -<p>During the half hour’s delay occasioned by these various untoward -circumstances, we were subjected to a long verbal examination, touching -the part of the country whence we had come; for having wandered round -the town in our attempts to gain admission, until we had reached a gate -at the very opposite point of the compass to that which points to -Andujar, the account we gave seemed to awaken great doubts of our -veracity in the minds of these vigilant functionaries; and, even after a -lantern had been brought, and our passports delivered up, we underwent a -minute personal examination, ere being permitted to repair to the -posada.</p> - -<p>The Spaniards say, that we English are “<i>victimas de la etiqueta</i>;†and, -certes, we may compliment them, in return, on being the most<a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a> complete -<i>slaves to form</i>. Instances in proof thereof,—which, though on a -smaller scale, were scarcely less laughable than the -foregoing,—occurred daily in the course of our journey. <i>Par example</i>, -on leaving the <i>venta</i> at Fuente de Piedra, where our sleeping apartment -was little better than the stable into which it opened, the hostess -insisted on serving our morning cup of chocolate on a table partially -covered with a dirty towel, saying, it would not be “<i>decente</i>†to allow -us to take it standing at the kitchen fire.</p> - -<p>Here again, at Torre Ximeno, the landlord was conducting us into what he -conceived to be a befitting apartment, when his better half cried out, -“<i>à la sala! à la sala!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_157_157" id="FNanchor_157_157"></a><a href="#Footnote_157_157" class="fnanchor">[157]</a> We pricked up our ears, fancying we were -to be in clover. The <i>sala</i>, however, proved to be a room about ten feet -longer than that into which we were first shown, but in every other -respect its <i>fac simile</i>; that is to say, it had bare white-washed walls -and a plastered floor, was furnished with half a dozen low rush-bottomed -chairs, and ventilated by two apertures, which at some distant period -had been closed by shutters.</p> - -<p>The floor presented so uneven a surface, and was marked with so many -rents, that, until encouraged by the landlord’s “<i>no tiene usted -cuidado</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_158_158" id="FNanchor_158_158"></a><a href="#Footnote_158_158" class="fnanchor">[158]</a> I was particularly careful where I<a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a> placed my feet, -taking it to be a highly finished model of the circumjacent sierras and -water-courses.</p> - -<p>After more than the usual difficulties about bills of health and -passports, we received a very civil message from the <i>Alcalde</i>, to say, -that his house, &c. &c., were at our disposal; but our host and his -helpmate seemed so well inclined to do what was in their power to make -us <i>comfortable</i>, that we declined his polite offer.</p> - -<p>Our landlady was still remarkably pretty, though the mother of four -children—a rare occurrence in Spain, where mothers, however young they -may be, usually look like old women. We had some little difficulty in -persuading her that we did not like garlic, and that we should be -satisfied with a very moderate quantity of oil in the <i>guisado</i><a name="FNanchor_159_159" id="FNanchor_159_159"></a><a href="#Footnote_159_159" class="fnanchor">[159]</a> she -undertook to prepare for our supper, and on which, with bread and fruit, -and some excellent wine, we made a hearty meal.</p> - -<p>Contrasts in Spain are most absurd. We slept on thin woollen mattresses, -spread upon the before-mentioned mountainous floor—the serrated ridges -of which we had some little difficulty in fitting to our ribs—and in -the morning were furnished with towels bordered with a kind of thread -lace and fringe to the depth of at least eighteen inches; very -ornamental,<a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a> but by no means useful, since the serviceable part of the -towel was hardly get-at-able.</p> - -<p>On asking our hostess for the bill, we were referred to her husband, -which, as the Easterns say, led us to regard her with the eyes of -astonishment; for this reference from the lady and mistress to her -helpmate, is the exception to the rule, and it was to save trouble we -had applied to her, experience having taught us that the landlady was -generally the oracle on these occasions; <i>invariably</i>, indeed, when -there is any intention to cheat.</p> - -<p>This, without explanation, may be deemed a most ungallant accusation; I -do not mean by it, however, to screen my own sex at the expense of the -fairer, for the truth is, the man adds duplicity to his other sins, by -retiring from the impending altercation. This he does either from -thinking that imposition will come with a better grace from his better -half, or, that she will be more ingenious in finding out reasons for the -exorbitance of the demand, or, at all events, words in defending it; for -any attempt at expostulation is drowned in such a torrent of whys and -wherefores, that one is glad, <i>coute qui coute</i>, to escape from the -encounter. And thus, whilst the lady’s volubility is extracting the -money from their lodger’s pocket, mine host stands aloof, looking as -like a hen-pecked<a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a> mortal as he possibly can, and shrugging his -shoulders from time to time, as much as to say, “It is none of my doing! -I would help you if I dare, but you see what a devil she is!â€</p> - -<p>On the present occasion, however, we had no reason to remonstrate, for, -to a very moderate charge, were added numerous excuses for any thing -that might have been amiss in our accommodation, in consequence of their -ignorance of our wants.</p> - -<p>Torre Ximeno is situated in a narrow valley, watered by a fine stream; -its walls, however, reach to the crest of the hills on both sides, and -apparently rest on a Roman foundation. It contains a population of 1,800 -souls. From hence a road proceeds, by way of Martos and Alcalà la Real, -to Granada, but it is more circuitous than that by Jaen.</p> - -<p>From Torre Ximeno to that city is two long leagues, or about nine miles. -The road now takes a more easterly direction than heretofore, and, at -the distance of three miles, reaches the village of Torre Campo. The -rest of the way lies over an undulated country, which slants gradually -towards the mountains, that rise to the eastward.</p> - -<p>Jaen is situated on the outskirts of the great Sierra de Susana, which, -dividing the waters of the GuadalquivÃr and Genil, spreads as far south -as the vale of Granada. The city is<a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a> built on the eastern slope of a -rough and very inaccessible ridge, whose summit is occupied by an old -castle, enclosed by extensive outworks.</p> - -<p>The ancient name of the place was Aurinx, and it appears to have stood -just without the limits of ancient BÅ“tica. It is now the capital of -one of the kingdoms composing the province of Andalusia, and the see of -a bishop in the archbishoprick of Toledo. Its population amounts to at -least 20,000 souls.</p> - -<p>Jaen is in every respect a most interesting city. It is frequently -mentioned by the Roman historians, was equally noted in the time of the -Moors, from whom it was wrested by San Fernando, A.D. 1246, and of late -years has held a distinguished place in the pages of military history. -Its situation is picturesque in the extreme, the bright city being on -the edge of a rich and fertile basin, encased by wild and lofty -mountains. The asperity of the country to the south is such indeed, -that, until within the last few years no road practicable for carriages -penetrated it, and Jaen has consequently been but very-little visited by -travellers; for Granada and Cordoba, being the great objects of -attraction, the most direct road between those two places was that which -was generally preferred.</p> - -<p>A direct and excellent road has now, however,<a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a> been completed, between -Granada and the capital, passing through Jaen. This route crosses the -GuadalquivÃr at Menjiber, and, directed thence on Baylen, falls into the -<i>arrecife</i> from Cordoba to Madrid, ere it enters the défilés of the -Sierra Morena.</p> - -<p>The castle of Jaen stands 800 feet above the city, and is still a fine -specimen of a Moslem fortress, though the picturesque has been -sacrificed to the defensive by various French additions and demolitions. -It crowns the crest of a narrow ridge much in the style of the castle of -Ximena, to which, in other respects, it also bears a strong resemblance. -Its tanks and subterraneous magazines are in tolerable preservation, but -the exterior walls of the fortress were partially destroyed by the -French, in their hurried evacuation of it in 1812.</p> - -<p>The view it commands is strikingly fine. An extensive plain spreads -northward, reaching seemingly to the very foot of the distant Sierra -Morena, and on every other side rugged mountains rise in the immediate -vicinity of the city, which, clad with vines wherever their roots can -find holding ground, present a strange union of fruitfulness and -aridity.</p> - -<p>The city contains fifteen convents, and numerous manufactories of silk, -linen and woollen cloths, and mats, and has a thriving appearance. The -streets are, for the most part, so<a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a> narrow, that, with outstretched -arms, I could touch the houses on both sides of them.</p> - -<p>The cathedral is a very handsome edifice of Corinthian architecture, 300 -feet long, and built in a very pure style; indeed every thing about it -is in good keeping for Spanish taste. The pavement is laid in chequered -slabs of black and white marble; the walls are hung with good paintings, -but not encumbered with them; the various altars, though enriched with -fine specimens of marbles and jaspers, are not gaudily ornamented; the -organ is splendid in appearance and rich in tone.</p> - -<p>Some paintings by Moya, particularly a Holy Family, and the visit of -Elizabeth to the Virgin Mary, are remarkably good; and the <i>Capilla -sagrada</i> contains several others by the same master, which are equally -worthy of notice: their frames of polished red marble have a good -effect.</p> - -<p>The only specimens of sculpture of which the cathedral can boast, are -some weeping cherubim, done to the very life. The greatest curiosity it -contains is the figure of Our Saviour on the cross, dressed in a kilt; -but the treasure of treasures of the holy edifice, the proud boast of -the favoured city itself, in fact, is the <i>Santa faz</i>—the Holy face.</p> - -<p>The <i>Santa faz</i>—so our conductor explained to us—is the impression of -Our Saviour’s face,<a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a> left in stains of blood on the white napkin which -bound up his head when deposited in the sepulchre. This cloth was thrice -folded over the face, so that three of these “<i>pinturas</i>,†as the priest -called them, were taken. That of Jaen, he said, was the second or middle -one, the others are in Italy—where, I know not, but I have some -recollection of having heard of them when in that country.</p> - -<p>This miraculous picture is only to be viewed on very particular -occasions, or by paying a very considerable fee; but we were perfectly -satisfied with our cicerone’s assurance of its “striking resemblance†to -Our Saviour, without requiring the ocular demonstration he was most -solicitous to afford.</p> - -<p>Attached to the cathedral is a kitchen for preparing the morning -chocolate of the priests, and which serves also as a snuggery, -where-unto they retire to smoke their <i>legitimos</i> during the breaks in -their tedious lental services.</p> - -<p>The <i>Parador de los Caballeros</i>, in the Plaza <i>del Mercado</i> is -remarkably good, and the view from the front windows, looking towards -the castle is very fine.</p> - -<p>The distance from Jaen to Granada, by the newly made <i>arrecife</i>, is -fifty-one miles. It descends gradually into the valley of the Campillos, -arriving at, and crossing the river about two miles from Jaen.<a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a></p> - -<p>The valley is wide, flat, and covered with a rich alluvial deposit; and -extends for several leagues in both directions along the course of the -stream, encircling the city with an ever-verdant belt of cultivation.</p> - -<p>For the succeeding three leagues, the road proceeds along this valley, -at first bordered with gardens, orchards, and vineyards, amongst which -numerous cottages and water-mills are scattered, but, after advancing -about five miles, overhung by rocky ridges, and occasionally shaded with -forest-trees.</p> - -<p>On a steep mound, on the right hand, forming the first mountain gorge -that the road enters, is situated the <i>Castillo de la Guarda</i>, and, at -the distance of three leagues from Jaen, is the <i>Torre de la Cabeza</i>, -similarly situated on the left of the road. Beyond this, another verdant -belt of cultivation gladdens the eye, extending about a mile and a half -along the course of the Campillos. In the midst of this, is the <i>Venta -del Puerto Suelo</i>, on arriving at which our <i>mozo</i>, who for several days -had been suffering from indisposition, came to inform us “<i>que no podÃa -mas</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_160_160" id="FNanchor_160_160"></a><a href="#Footnote_160_160" class="fnanchor">[160]</a> requested we would leave him there to rest for a couple of -days; when he hoped to be able to rejoin us at Granada by means of a -<i>Galera</i> that travelled the road periodically.</p> - -<p>We could not but accede to his request, and<a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a> as we purposed reaching -Granada on the following day, the loss of his attendance for so short a -period was of little importance; the only difficulty was, who should -lead the baggage animal.—Fortune befriended us.</p> - -<p>On our arrival at the inn we had been accosted by a smart-looking young -fellow, in the undress uniform of a Spanish infantry soldier, who, -seeing the disabled state of our Esquire, volunteered his services to -lead our horses to the stable, and minister to their wants; and now, -learning from our <i>mozo</i> how matters stood, he again came forward, and -offered to be our attendant during the remainder of the journey to -Granada, to which place he himself was proceeding.</p> - -<p>We gladly accepted his proffered services, and, after a short rest, -remounted our horses, and pursued our way; the young soldier—like an -old campaigner—seating himself between our portmanteaus on the back of -the baggage animal. Whilst jogging on before us, I observed, for the -first time, that he carried a bright tin case suspended from his -shoulder by a silken cord, and curious to know the purpose to which it -was applied, asked what it contained.</p> - -<p>Without uttering a word in reply, he took off the case, produced -therefrom a roll of parchment, and, spreading before us a long document -concluding with the words <i>Io el Rey</i>,<a name="FNanchor_161_161" id="FNanchor_161_161"></a><a href="#Footnote_161_161" class="fnanchor">[161]</a><a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a> offered it for my perusal. -If my surprise was great at the length of the scroll, it was not -diminished on finding, after wading through the usual verbose and -bombastic preamble, that it dubbed our new acquaintance a knight of the -first class of <i>San Fernando</i>, and decorated him with the ribbon and -silver clasp of the same distinguished order.</p> - -<p>On first addressing him at the Venta, I had noticed a bit of ribbon on -his breast, but, aware that the very smell of powder, even though it -should be but that of his own musket, often <i>entitles</i> a Spanish soldier -to a decoration; and, indeed, that it is more frequently an -acknowledgment of so many months’ pay due, than of so much good service -done,<a name="FNanchor_162_162" id="FNanchor_162_162"></a><a href="#Footnote_162_162" class="fnanchor">[162]</a> I had abstained from questioning him concerning it; but that -the first class decoration of a military order should have been bestowed -on one so low in rank as a corporal, I confess, surprised me; and I -concluded that its possessor was either the brother of the mistress of -some great man, or that he was passing off some other person’s <i>honors</i> -as his own.</p> - -<p>Being a very young man, it was evident he could not have seen much -service; my suspicions were, therefore, excusable, and I took the<a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a> -liberty of cross-questioning him concerning the fields wherein his -laurels had been gathered. The result gave me such satisfaction that I -feel in justice bound to make the <i>amende honorable</i> to the gallant -fellow for the foul suspicions I had entertained, by giving my readers -his history. As, however, it is somewhat long, I will postpone it for -the present—as, indeed, not having arrived at its conclusion for -several days, it is but methodically correct I should do—merely -premising in this place, that, besides the <i>Diploma</i>, the tin case -contained a statement of the particular services for which he obtained -his knighthood, drawn up and attested by the officers of his regiment.</p> - -<p>About a mile beyond the Venta where we had fallen in with our new -attendant, the country again becomes very wild and broken, and the hills -are covered with pine woods. The valley of the Campillos gets more and -more confined as the road proceeds, and is bounded by precipitous rocks; -and, at length, on reaching the <i>Puerta de Arenas</i>, the passage, for the -road and river together, does not exceed sixty feet, the cliffs rising -perpendicularly on both sides to a considerable height.</p> - -<p>This is a very defensible pass, looking towards Granada, but not so in -the opposite direction, as it is commanded by higher ground. It is about -eighteen miles from Jaen.<a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a></p> - -<p>On emerging from the pass, an open, cultivated valley presents itself; -towards the head of which, distant about four miles, is Campillos -Arenas, a wretched village, containing some fifty or sixty <i>vecinos</i>. We -were stopt at the entrance by an old beggarman, who was officiating as -<i>health</i> officer, and demanded our passports, which, on receiving, he -ceremoniously forwarded to Head Quarters by a ragged, barefoot urchin, -with the promise of an <i>ochavo</i><a name="FNanchor_163_163" id="FNanchor_163_163"></a><a href="#Footnote_163_163" class="fnanchor">[163]</a> if he used despatch in bringing -them back to us.</p> - -<p>Our passports had now become a serious nuisance, from being completely -covered with <i>visés</i> both inside and out; for, of course, the curiosity -of the natives was proportioned to the number of signatures they -contained, and their astonishment was boundless that we should be -travelling south at such a moment. At length, our papers were returned -to us, and the boy gained his promised reward by running with all his -might, to prove that the tedious delay we experienced was not -attributable to him.</p> - -<p>Proceeding onwards, in three quarters of an hour, we reached the -<i>Parador de San Rafael</i>, a newly built house of call for the diligence, -recently established on this road. It is about twenty-four miles from -Jaen, and twenty-seven from Granada, though, as the crow flies, the -distance is rather shorter, perhaps, to the latter<a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a> city than to the -first named. It is a place of much resort, and we were happy to find -that San Rafael presided over comfortable beds, and good dinners, though -rather careless of the state of the wine-cellar.</p> - -<p>We started at an early hour next morning, our knightly attendant, with -his red epaulettes, and janty foraging cap, together with a <i>de haut en -bas</i> manner assumed towards the passing peasantry and arrieros, causing -us to be regarded with no inconsiderable degree of respect.</p> - -<p>The road, for the first eight miles, is one continuation of zig zags -over a very mountainous country, and must be kept up at an immense -expense to the government, for there is but very little traffic upon it. -The hills are principally covered with forests of ilex, but patches of -land have recently been taken into cultivation in the valleys, and -houses are thinly scattered along the road. At ten miles and a half, we -passed the first village we had seen since leaving Campillos Arenas. It -is about a mile from the road on the left. The country now becomes less -rugged than heretofore, though it continues equally devoid of -cultivation and inhabitants.</p> - -<p>We were much disappointed at not finding a good <i>posada</i> on the road, as -we had been led to expect. We passed two in process of building on a -magnificent scale, but nothing could be had at either. At last, after -riding four long<a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a> leagues—at a foot’s pace, on account of our baggage -animal—a farmer took compassion upon us, and, leading the way to his -<i>Cortijo</i>, supplied our famished horses with a feed of barley, and set -before ourselves all the good things his house afforded—melons, grapes, -fresh eggs, and delicious bread.</p> - -<p>We arrived at the farmer’s dinner hour, and a wide circle, comprising -his wife, children, cowherds, ploughboys, and dairymaids, was already -formed round the huge family bowl of <i>gazpacho fresco</i>, of which we -received a general invitation to partake. It was far too light a meal, -however, to satisfy the cravings of our appetites, and politely -declining to dip our spoons in their common mess, we commenced making -the usual preparations for an English breakfast, by unpacking our -travelling canteen and placing a skillet of water upon the fire.</p> - -<p>The curiosity of the peasantry on these occasions amused us exceedingly. -In this instance the spectators, who probably had never before come in -such close contact with Englishmen, watched each of our movements with -the greatest interest. The beating up an egg as a substitute for milk, -excited universal astonishment; and the production of knives, forks, and -spoons, took their breath away; but when our travelling teapot was -placed on the table, their wonderment defies description; many started -from their seats<a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a> to obtain a near view of the extraordinary machine, -and our host, after a minute examination, venturing, at last, to expose -his ignorance by asking to what use it was applied, exclaimed in -raptures, as if it was a thing he had heard of, “<i>y esa es una -tepà !</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_164_164" id="FNanchor_164_164"></a><a href="#Footnote_164_164" class="fnanchor">[164]</a> “<i>Una tepà !</i>†was repeated in all the graduated intonations -of the three generations of spectators present; “<i>una tepà ! caramba! que -gente tan fina los Ingleses!</i>â€</p> - -<p>We now carried on the joke by inflating an air cushion, but the use to -which it was applied alone surprised them; for our host with a nod -signifying “I understand,†took down a huge pig-skin of wine, and made -preparations to transfer a portion of its contents to our portable -<i>caoutchouc</i> pillow. On explaining the purpose to which it was applied, -“<i>Jesus! una almohada!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_165_165" id="FNanchor_165_165"></a><a href="#Footnote_165_165" class="fnanchor">[165]</a> exclaimed all the women with one -accord—“<i>Que gente tan deleytosa!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_166_166" id="FNanchor_166_166"></a><a href="#Footnote_166_166" class="fnanchor">[166]</a></p> - -<p>Our percussion pistols next excited their astonishment, and by ocular -demonstration only could we convince them that they were fired without -“una piedra;â€<a name="FNanchor_167_167" id="FNanchor_167_167"></a><a href="#Footnote_167_167" class="fnanchor">[167]</a> but when I assured our host that, in England, -<i>diligences</i> were propelled by steam at the rate of ten leagues an hour, -his amazement was evidently stretched beyond the bounds of credulity. -“<i>Como! sin caballos, sin mulas, sin nada, sino el vapor!</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_168_168" id="FNanchor_168_168"></a><a href="#Footnote_168_168" class="fnanchor">[168]</a> he -ejaculated;<a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a> and his shoulders gradually rising above his ears, as I -repeated the astounding assertion, he turned with a look, half horror, -half amazement, to his assembled countrymen, saying as plainly as eyes -could speak—either these English deal largely with the devil, or are -most extraordinary romancers.</p> - -<p>If our equipment surprised them, we were not less astonished at the -number of cats, without tails, that were prowling about the house; and -asking the reason for mutilating the unfortunate creatures in this -unnatural way, our host replied, “These animals, to be useful, must have -free access to every part of the premises; but, when their tails are -long, they do incredible mischief amongst the plates, dishes, and other -friable articles, arranged upon the dresser, or left upon the table; -whereas, docked as you now see them, they move about without ceremony, -and, even in the midst of a labyrinth of crockery, do not the slightest -damage. All the mischief of this animal is in his tail.â€</p> - -<p>We had great difficulty in persuading our hospitable entertainer to -accept of any remuneration for what he had furnished us, and only -succeeded by requesting he would distribute our gift amongst his -children.</p> - -<p>From his farm, which is called the <i>Cortijo de los Arenales</i>, to -Granada, is nine miles. The country, during the whole distance, is -undulated,<a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a> and mostly covered with vines and olives. On the right, some -leagues distant, we saw the town and <i>tajo</i> of Moclin; and at three -miles from the <i>Cortijo</i> crossed the river Cubillas, which, flowing -westward to the plain of Granada, empties itself into the Genil. A -little way beyond this the Sierra de Elvira rises abruptly on the right, -and thenceforth the ground falls very gradually all the way to Granada.</p> - -<p>Our sojourn at Granada was prolonged much beyond the period we had -originally intended, by the difficulty of ascertaining the truth of a -report that the cholera had appeared at Malaga; but, at length, it was -officially notified by a proclamation of the captain-general, that in -answer to a despatch sent to the governor of Malaga, he had been assured -that city was perfectly free from the disease; and a caravan, composed -of numberless <i>galeras</i>, <i>coches</i>, and <i>arrieros</i>, that had been -detained at Granada for a fortnight in consequence of this rumour, -forthwith proceeded to the sea-port.</p> - -<p>Sending our baggage animal forward, directing the mozo—whose -indisposition had abated so as to allow of his rejoining us, and -resuming his duty—to proceed along the high road to Loja until we -overtook him, we set off ourselves at mid-day to visit the <i>Soto de -Roma</i>.<a name="FNanchor_169_169" id="FNanchor_169_169"></a><a href="#Footnote_169_169" class="fnanchor">[169]</a></p> - -<p><a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a></p> - -<p>The road thither strikes off from the <i>arrecife</i> to Loja, soon after -passing the city of Santa Fé,<a name="FNanchor_170_170" id="FNanchor_170_170"></a><a href="#Footnote_170_170" class="fnanchor">[170]</a> and traversing Chauchina, after much -twisting and turning, reaches Fuente Vaquero, a village belonging to the -Duke of Wellington, where his agent, General O’Lawler, has a house.</p> - -<p>From thence a long avenue leads to the <i>Casa Real</i>, which is situated on -the right bank of the Genil. The avenue, both trees and road, is in a -very bad state. On the left hand there is a wood of some extent; the -forest-trees it contains are chiefly elms and white poplars, but there -are also a few oaks. The ground is extremely rich, and was covered with -fine crops of maize and hemp; and, on the whole, it struck me the estate -was in better order than the properties adjoining it.</p> - -<p>The house, however, which at the period of my former visit to Granada -was in a tolerable state of repair, I now found in a wretched plight. -The court-yard was made the general receptacle for manure; the -coach-house and stables were turned into barns and cattle-sheds; the -garden was overgrown with weeds;<a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a> and, basking in the sun, lay young -pigs amongst the roses.</p> - -<p>From having been the favourite retreat of the Minister Wall, it has -degenerated, in fact, into a very second-rate description of farmhouse. -This change, however, was inevitable; for, besides that the taste for -country-houses is very rare amongst Spaniards, and that the difficulty -of procuring a tenant who would keep it in order would, consequently, be -very great, the situation of the house is not such as a lover of fine -scenery would choose in the vicinity of Granada.</p> - -<p>The estate of the Soto de Roma has suffered great damage within the last -few years, from the Genil having burst its banks, laid waste the -country, and formed itself a new bed; and the stream not being now -properly banked in, keeps continually “<i>comiendo</i>â€<a name="FNanchor_171_171" id="FNanchor_171_171"></a><a href="#Footnote_171_171" class="fnanchor">[171]</a> the ground on -both sides. This evil should be corrected immediately, or, in the event -of another extraordinary rise in the river, it may lead to incalculable -mischief. The best and cheapest plan of doing this, would be to force -the stream back into its old channel. The elm woods on the estate would -furnish excellent piles for this purpose, and, by being cut down, would -clear some<a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a> valuable ground which at present lies almost profitless.</p> - -<p>After recrossing the Genil we arrived at another village, inhabited by -the peasantry of the Soto de Roma, and soon after at a wretched place -called Cijuela. The country in its vicinity was flooded for a -considerable extent, and we had great difficulty in following the road, -and avoiding the ditches that bound it. At length we got once more upon -the <i>arrecife</i>, and reached Lachar; a vile place, reckoned four leagues -from Granada.</p> - -<p>From thence to the Venta de Cacin is called two leagues, but they are of -Brobdignag measurement. The road is heavy, and the country becomes hilly -soon after leaving Lachar. A league beyond the Venta de Cacin is the -Venta del Pulgar, situated in the midst of gardens and olive -plantations.</p> - -<p>It was 11 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> when we arrived, for, having missed our way in fording -the wide bed of the river Cacin (which crosses the road just beyond the -Venta of that name), we had wandered for two hours in the dark; and -might have done so until morning, but that our progress was cut short by -the river Genil. We thought the wisest plan would be to return to the -venta, and endeavour to procure a guide, which we fortunately succeeded -in doing. The <i>ventero</i> had previously informed us that he had seen our<a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a> -<i>mozo</i> pass on with the baggage animal towards Loja, which made us -rather anxious for its safety, otherwise we should have rested at his -house for the night.</p> - -<p>On arriving at the Venta del Pulgar, we found our attendant established -there, and in some little alarm at our prolonged absence. Indeed the -faithful fellow was so uneasy, that he was about proceeding on a fresh -horse in search of us. The night was excessively cold, and we duly -appreciated the fire and hot supper his providence had caused to be -prepared.</p> - -<p>This venta is but a short league from Loja, the ride to which place is -very delightful, the rich valley of the Genil (here contracted to the -width of a mile) being on the right, a fine range of mountains on the -left, whilst the river frequently approaches close to the road, adding -by its snakelike windings to the beauty of the scenery.</p> - -<p>The town of Loja stands on the south side of a rocky gorge, by which the -Genil escapes from the fertile <i>Vega</i> of Granada. The mountains on both -sides the river are lofty, and of an inaccessible nature, so that the -old Moorish fortress, though occupying the widest part of the défilé, -completely commands this important outlet from the territory of Granada, -as well as the bridge over the Genil.</p> - -<p>It was a place of great strength in times<a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a> past, and Ferdinand and -Isabella were repulsed with great loss on their first attempt to gain -possession of it. The second attack of the “Catholic kings,†made some -years afterwards (i. e. in 1487), was more successful, and the English -auxiliaries, under the Earl of Rivers, particularly distinguished -themselves on the occasion.</p> - -<p>Loja is proverbially noted for the fertility of its gardens and -orchards, the abundance and purity of its springs, and the loose morals -and hard features of its inhabitants. Its situation is peculiarly -picturesque, the town being built upon a steep acclivity, unbosomed in -groves of fruit trees and overlooked by a toppling mountain. The view of -the distant <i>Sierra Nevada</i> gives additional interest to the scenery. It -contains a population of 9000 souls.</p> - -<p>From Loja to Malaga is forty-three miles. The country throughout is -extremely mountainous, but the road, nevertheless, is so good as to be -traversed by a diligence. Soon after leaving Loja, a road strikes off to -the right to Antequera, four leagues; and this, in fact, is the great -road from Granada to Seville, and the only portion of it that is -interrupted by mountains.</p> - -<p>The <i>arrecife</i> to Malaga, leaving the village of Alfarnate to the left, -at sixteen miles, reaches the solitary venta of the same name; and two<a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a> -miles beyond, the equally lonely venta of Dornejo, considered the -half-way house from Loja. The view from hence is remarkably fine, and we -enjoyed the scenery to perfection, having remained the night at the -venta, and witnessed the splendid effects of both the setting and rising -sun.</p> - -<p>This is the highest point the road reaches, and is, I should think, -about 4000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean.</p> - -<p>From the Venta de Dornejo the road proceeds to El Colmenar, eight miles. -The mountains that encompass this little town are clad to their very -summits with vines, and from the luscious grapes grown in its -neighbourhood is made the sweet wine, well known in England under the -name of Mountain.</p> - -<p>From El Colmenar the road is conducted nine miles along the spine of a -narrow tortuous ridge, that divides the Gualmedina, or river of Malaga, -from various streams flowing to the eastward, reaching, at last, a point -where a splendid view is obtained of the rich vale of Malaga, encircled -by the boldly outlined mountains of Mijas, Monda, and Casarabonela. The -<i>coup d’œil</i> is truly magnificent; the bright city lies basking in -the sun, on the margin of the Mediterranean, seemingly at the -spectator’s feet; but eight miles of a continual descent have yet to be -accomplished ere reaching it.<a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a></p> - -<p>The engineer’s pertinacious adherence to his plan of keeping the road on -one unvarying inclined plane, tries the patience to an extraordinary -degree, but the work is admirably executed. In the whole of these last -eight miles there is not one house on the road side, though several neat -villas are scattered amongst the ravines below it, on drawing near -Malaga.</p> - -<p>This difficult passage through the SerranÃa has been effected only at an -enormous cost of money and labour; but, as a work of art, it ranks with -any of the splendid roads lately made across the Alps. The scenery along -it, especially after gaining the southern side of the principal -mountain-chain, when the Mediterranean is brought to view, surpasses any -thing that is to be met with in those more celebrated, because more -frequented, cloud-capped regions.</p> - -<p>Another very fine road has been opened through the mountains between -Malaga and Antequera. The scenery along this is very grand, though -inferior to that just described. The distance between the two places is -about twenty-eight miles, reckoned eight leagues. The road is conducted -along the valley of Rio Gordo, or Campanillos; and, it is alleged, -through some private influence was made unnecessarily circuitous, to -visit the Venta de Galvez. This, and two other ventas, are almost the -only habitations on the road. About four<a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a> miles from Antequera, the road -reaches the summit of the great mountain-ridge that pens in the -Guadaljorce, which falls very rapidly on its northern side.</p> - -<p>Antequera is situated near the foot of the mountain, but in a hollow -formed by a swelling hill, which, detached from the chain of sierra, -shelters it to the north. It is a large, well-built, and populous city, -contains twenty religious houses, numerous manufactories of linen and -woollen cloths, silks, serges, &c., and 40,000 souls.</p> - -<p>An old castle, situated on a conical knoll, overlooks the city to the -east. It formerly contained a valuable collection of ancient armour, but -the greater part has been removed.</p> - -<p>The city of <i>Anticaria</i> is mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus; but, -as no notice is taken of it by Pliny, it probably was known in his day -by some other name. Some antiquaries have imagined Antequera to be -Singilia; but this is very improbable, as it is nearly four leagues -distant from the Singilis (Genil).</p> - -<p>Even the Guadaljorce does not approach within a mile of the city, which -depends upon its fountains for water; for though a fine rivulet flows -down from the mountains at the back of the city, washing the eastern -base of the castle hill, and sweeping round to the westward, where it -unites with the Guadaljorce, yet<a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a> it merely serves to render the valley -fruitful, and to turn the wheels of the mills which supply the city with -flour and oil.</p> - -<p>At a league north-east from Antequera a lofty conical mountain, -distinguished by the romantic name of <i>El Peñon de los Enamorados</i> (Rock -of the Lovers), rises from the plain; and a league beyond it is the town -of Archidona, on the great road from Granada to Seville.<a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">MALAGA—EXCURSION TO MARBELLA AND -MONDA—CHURRIANA—BENALMAINA—FUENGIROLA—DISCREPANCY OF OPINION -RESPECTING THE SITE OF SUEL—SCALE TO BE ADOPTED, IN ORDER TO MAKE -THE MEASUREMENTS GIVEN IN THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS AGREE WITH THE -ACTUAL DISTANCE FROM MALAGA TO CARTEIA—ERRORS OF CARTER—CASTLE OF -FUENGIROLA—ROAD TO MARBELLA—TOWERS AND CASA FUERTES—DISPUTED -SITE OF SALDUBA—DESCRIPTION OF MARBELLA—ABANDONED MINES—DISTANCE -TO GIBRALTAR.</p></div> - -<p>W<small>E</small> found Malaga a deserted city, for the dread of cholera had carried -off half its inhabitants; not, however, to their last home, but to -Alhaurin, Coin, Churriara, and other towns in the vicinity, in the hope -of postponing their visit to a final resting-place by a temporary change -to a more salubrious atmosphere than that of the fetid seaport.</p> - -<p>Our zealous and indefatigable consul, Mr. Mark, still, however, remained -at his post, and his hospitality and kindness rendered our short stay as -agreeable as, under existing circumstances, it well could be.<a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a></p> - -<p>Understanding that a vessel was about to proceed to Ceuta in the course -of a few days, we resolved to take advantage of this favourable -opportunity of visiting that fortress—the Port Jackson of Spain; and -having already seen every thing worthy of observation in Malaga (of -which due notice has been taken in a former chapter), we agreed to -devote the intervening days to a short excursion to Marbella, Monda, and -other interesting towns in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>Leaving, therefore, the still hot, but no longer bustling city, late in -the afternoon, we took the road to the ferry near the mouth of the -Guadaljorce, and leaving the road to <i>El Retiro</i> to the right on gaining -the southern bank of the river, proceeded to Churriana.</p> - -<p>We were disappointed both in the town and in the accommodation afforded -at the inn, for the place being much resorted to by the merchants of -Malaga, we naturally looked forward to something above the common run of -Spanish towns and Spanish posadas, whereas we found both the one and the -other rather below par. The town is quite as dirty as Malaga, but, -perhaps, somewhat more wholesome; for the filth with which the streets -are strewed <i>not</i> being watered by a trickling stream, to keep it in a -state of fermentation throughout the summer, is soon burnt up, and -becomes innoxious.<a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a></p> - -<p>The town stands at a slight elevation above the vale of Malaga, and -commands a fine view to the eastward.</p> - -<p>We left the wretched venta betimes on the following morning, and -proceeded towards Marbella, leaving on our left the little village of -Torre Molinos, situated on the Mediterranean shore (distant one league -from Churriana), and reaching Benalmaina in two hours and a half. The -road keeps the whole way within half a mile of the sea, and about the -same distance from a range of barren sierras on the right. No part of it -is good but the ascent to Benalmaina (or, as it is sometimes, and -perhaps more correctly written, Benalmedina), is execrable.</p> - -<p>This village is surrounded with vineyards, and groves of orange and fig -trees; is watered by a fine clear stream, which serves to irrigate some -patches of garden-ground, as well as to turn numerous mill-wheels; and, -from the general sterility of the country around, has obtained a -reputation for amenity of situation that it scarcely deserves.</p> - -<p>In something less than an hour, descending the whole time, we reached -the Mediterranean shore, and continuing along it for a mile, arrived at -the Torre Blanca—a high white tower, situated on a rugged cliff that -borders the coast, and in the vicinity of which are numerous ruins. Some -little distance beyond this the cliffs terminate,<a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a> and a fine plain, -covered with gardens and orchards, stretches inland for several miles.</p> - -<p>Nature has been peculiarly bountiful to this sunny valley, for the river -of Mijas winds through, and fertilizes the whole of its eastern side; -whilst the western portion is watered by the river Gomenarro, or—word -offensive to British ears—Fuengirola.</p> - -<p>The plain is about two miles across, and near its western extremity; and -a little removed from the seashore is the fishing village of Fuengirola. -It is a small and particularly dirty place, but contains a population of -1000 souls. The distance from Malaga is reckoned by the natives five -leagues, “three long and two short,†according to their curious mode of -computation; but, I think, in reducing them to English miles, the usual -average of four per league may be taken. The last league of the road is -very good. The town of Mijas, rich in wine and oil, is perched high up -on the side of a rugged mountain, about four miles north of Fuengirola. -A <i>trocha</i> leads from thence, over the mountains, into the valley of the -Guadaljorce, debouching upon Alhaurinejo; and to those in whose -travelling scales the picturesque outweighs the breakneck, I would -strongly recommend this route from Malaga in preference to the tamer, -somewhat better, and, perhaps, rather shorter road, that borders the -coast.<a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a></p> - -<p>The old and, alas! too celebrated castle of Fuengirola, or Frangirola, -occupies the point of a rocky tongue that juts some way into the sea, -about half a mile beyond the fishing village of the same name. It is a -work of the Moors, built, as some say, on an ancient foundation, -imagined to be that of Suel; whilst others maintain, that the vestigia -of antiquity built into its walls, were brought there from some place in -the neighbourhood.</p> - -<p>That <i>Suel</i> did not stand here appears to me very evident; for though -the actual distance from Malaga to Fuengirola exceeds but little that -given in the Itinerary of Antoninus from Malaca to Suel, viz., -twenty-one miles—calculating seventy-five Roman miles to a degree of -the meridian;—yet, as the Itinerary makes the whole distance from -Malaca to Calpe Carteia eighty-nine miles,<a name="FNanchor_172_172" id="FNanchor_172_172"></a><a href="#Footnote_172_172" class="fnanchor">[172]</a> whereas, even following -all<a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a> the sinuosities of the coast, it can be eked out only to eighty (of -the above standard), it seems clear that the length of the mile has been -somewhat overrated.</p> - -<p>That I may not incur the reproach of “extreme confidence,†in venturing -to publish an opinion differing from that of various learned antiquaries -who have written on the subject, I will endeavour to show that my doubt -has, at all events, some reasonable foundation to rest upon.</p> - -<p>Supposing that the distances given in the Itinerary between Malaca and -Calpe Carteia were respectively correct, but that the error—which, in -consequence, was evident—had been made by over-estimating the length of -the Roman mile in use at the period the Itinerary was compiled, I found, -by dividing the <i>actual</i> distance into eighty-nine parts (following such -an irregular line as a road, considering the ruggedness of the country, -might be supposed to take), that it gave a scale of eighty-three and a -third of such divisions to a degree of the meridian; a scale which, as I -have observed in a former chapter, is mentioned by Strabo, on the -authority of Eratosthenes, as one in use amongst the Romans.</p> - -<p>Now, by measuring off twenty-one such parts along the indented line of -coast from Malaga westward, to fix the situation of Suel, I find<a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a> that, -according to this scale, it would be placed about a mile beyond the -Torre Blanca; that is, at the commencement of the fertile valley, which -has been mentioned as stretching some way inland, and at the bottom of -the bay, of which the rocky ledge occupied by the castle of Fuengirola -forms the western boundary; certainly a much more suitable site, either -for a commercial city, or for a fortress, than the low, rocky headland -of Fuengirola, which neither affords enough space for a town to stand -upon, nor is sufficiently elevated above the adjacent country, to have -the command that was usually sought for in building fortresses previous -to the invention of artillery.</p> - -<p>Proceeding onwards, and measuring twenty-four divisions (of this same -scale) from the point where I suppose Suel to have stood, along the yet -rugged coast to the westward of Fuengirola, the site of Cilniana, the -next station of the Itinerary, is fixed a little beyond where the town -of Marbella now stands; another most probable spot for the PhÅ“nicians -or Romans to have selected for a station; as, in the first place, the -proximity of the high, impracticable, Sierra de Juanel, would have -enabled a fortress there situated to intercept most completely the -communication along the coast; and, in the second, the vicinity of a -fertile plain, and the valuable mines of Istan (from whence a fine<a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a> -stream flows), would have rendered it a desirable site for a port.</p> - -<p>The next distance, thirty-four miles to Barbariana, brings me to the -<i>mouth</i> of the Guadiaro, (which <i>can be</i> no other than the Barbesula of -the Romans, if we suppose that the road continued, as heretofore, along -the seashore); or, carries me across that river, and also the -Sogarganta, which falls into it, if, striking inland, <i>as soon as the -nature of the country permitted</i>, we imagine the road to have been -directed by the straightest line to its point of destination.</p> - -<p>Now, in the first case, the discovery of numerous vestigia, and -inscriptions at a spot two miles up from the mouth, on the eastern bank -of the Barbesula, (i. e. Guadiaro) have clearly proved that to be the -position of the city<a name="FNanchor_173_173" id="FNanchor_173_173"></a><a href="#Footnote_173_173" class="fnanchor">[173]</a> bearing the same name as the river. We must -not, therefore, look in its neighbourhood for Barbariana; especially as -the vestiges of this ancient town are twelve <i>English</i> miles from -Carteia, whereas the distance from Barbariana to Carteia is stated in -the Itinerary to be but ten <i>Roman</i> miles.</p> - -<p>In the second case, having crossed the Sogarganta about a mile above its -confluence with the Guadiaro, we arrive, at the end of the prescribed -thirty-four miles from Cilniana, at the mouth of a steep ravine by which -the existing<a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a> road from Gaucin and Casares to San Roque ascends the -chain of hills forming the southern boundary of the valley, and this -spot is not only well calculated for a military station, but exceeds by -very little the distance of ten miles to Carteia, specified in the -Itinerary.</p> - -<p>I suppose, therefore, that Barbariana stood here, where it would have -been on the most direct line that a road <i>could take</i> between Estepona -and Carteia, as well as on that which presented the fewest difficulties -to be surmounted in the nature of the country.</p> - -<p>I will now follow the Roman Itinerary as laid down by Mr. Carter, in his -“Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga.â€<a name="FNanchor_174_174" id="FNanchor_174_174"></a><a href="#Footnote_174_174" class="fnanchor">[174]</a></p> - -<p>The first station, Suel, he fixes at the Castle of Fuengirola; the -second, Cilniana, at the ruins of what he calls Old Estepona. These he -describes as lying <i>three leagues</i> to the eastward of the modern town of -that name, and upwards of a league to the westward of the Torre de las -Bovedas, in the vicinity of which he assumes Salduba stood; but this -very site of Salduba (i. e. the Torre de las Bovedas) is little more -than <i>two leagues</i> from modern Estepona, being just half way between -that place and Marbella—the distance from the one town to the other -scarcely exceeding four leagues, or sixteen English miles—so that, in -point of fact, he fixes<a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a> Cilniana at <i>four miles</i> to the eastward of -Estepona, instead of three leagues.</p> - -<p>Passing over this error, however, and allowing that his site of Cilniana -was where <i>he wished it to be</i>, Mr. Carter, nevertheless, still found -himself in a difficulty; for he had already far exceeded the greater -portion of the <i>actual</i> distance between Malaga and Carteia, although -but half the number of miles specified in the Itinerary were disposed -of; so that twenty-five miles measured along the coast now brought him -within the prescribed distance of Barbariana from Carteia (ten miles), -instead of thirty-four, as stated in the Itinerary!</p> - -<p>To extricate himself, therefore, from this dilemma, he carries the road, -first to the town of Barbesula, situated near the mouth of the river of -the same name, and then <i>eight miles up the stream</i> to Barbariana.</p> - -<p>The objections to this most eccentric route are, however, manifold and -obvious. In the first place, had the road visited Barbesula, that town -would assuredly have been noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, because -it would have made so much more convenient a break in the distance -between Cilniana and Carteia, than Barbariana.</p> - -<p>In the next,—had the road been taken to the mouth of the Guadiaro, it -would <i>there</i> have been as near Carteia as from any other point along<a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a> -the course of that river, with nothing in the nature of the intervening -country to prevent its being carried straight across it: every step, -therefore, that the road was taken up the stream would have -unnecessarily increased the distance to be travelled.</p> - -<p>Thirdly,—had Barbariana been situated <i>eight miles</i><a name="FNanchor_175_175" id="FNanchor_175_175"></a><a href="#Footnote_175_175" class="fnanchor">[175]</a> up the river, -the road from Barbesula must not only have been carried that distance -out of the way to visit it, but, for the greater part of the way, must -actually have been led back again towards the point of the compass -whence it had been brought; and the town of Barbariana would thereby -have been situated nearly eighteen miles from Calpe Carteia, instead of -ten.</p> - -<p>Mr. Carter probably fell into this error, through ignorance of the -direction whence the Guadiaro flows, for though the last four miles of -its course is easterly, yet its previous direction is due south, or -straight upon Gibraltar; and, consequently, taking the road up the -stream beyond the distance of <i>four miles</i>, would have been leading it -away from its destination. And if, on the other hand, we suppose that -Mr. Carter’s mistake be simply in the name of the river, and that, by -two leagues up the Guadiaro, he meant up its tributary, the -Sogarganta;<a name="FNanchor_176_176" id="FNanchor_176_176"></a><a href="#Footnote_176_176" class="fnanchor">[176]</a><a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a> still, so long as the road continued following the -course of that stream, it would get no nearer to Carteia, and was, -therefore, but uselessly increasing the distance.</p> - -<p>It is quite unreasonable, however, to suppose that the Romans, who were -in the habit of making their roads as straight as possible, should have -so unnecessarily departed from their rule in this instance, and not only -have increased the distance by so doing, but also the difficulties to be -encountered; for, in point of fact, a road would be more readily carried -to the Guadiaro by leaving the seashore on approaching Manilba, and -directing it straight upon Carteia, than by continuing it along the -rugged and indented coast that presents itself from thence to the mouth -of the river.</p> - -<p>Objections may be taken to the sites I have fixed upon for the different -towns mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, from the absence of all vestiges -at those particular spots; but when the ease with which all traces of -ancient places are lost is considered, particularly those situated on -the seashore, I think such objections must fall to the ground: and, -indeed, Carter himself, who found fault with Florez for supposing the -town of Salduba<a name="FNanchor_177_177" id="FNanchor_177_177"></a><a href="#Footnote_177_177" class="fnanchor">[177]</a> <i>could</i> have entirely disappeared,<a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a> furnishes a -glaring instance of the futility of such objections, when he states that -not the least remains of Barbesula were to be traced, whereas, <i>now</i>, -they are quite visible.</p> - -<p>The castle of Fuengirola—to which it is time to return from this long -digression—has lately undergone a thorough repair; the whole of the -western front, indeed, has been rebuilt, and the rest of the walls have -been modernised, though they still continue to be badly flanked by small -projecting square towers, and are exposed to their very foundations, so -that the fortress <i>ought not</i> to withstand even a couple of hours’ -battering.</p> - -<p>From hence to Marbella is four leagues. During the first, the road is -bad enough, and, for the remaining three, but indifferently good. The -last eight miles of the stony track may, however, be avoided by riding -along the sandy beach, which, when the sun is on the decline, the breeze -light and westerly, and, above all, when the <i>tide is out</i>, is pleasant -enough. I may as well observe here, that the Mediterranean Sea really -does ebb and flow, notwithstanding anything others may have stated to -the contrary.</p> - -<p>The whole line of coast bristles with towers, built originally to give -intelligence by signal of the appearance of an enemy. They are of all -shapes and ages; some circular, having a Roman look; others angular, and -either Moorish,<a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a> or built after Saracenic models; many are of -comparatively recent construction, though all seem equally to be going -to decay.</p> - -<p>These towers can be entered only by means of ladders, and such as are in -a habitable state are occupied by Custom-house guards, or, more -correctly, Custom-house defrauders. Here and there a <i>Casa fuerta</i> has -been erected along the line, which, furnished with artillery and a small -garrison of regular troops, serves as a <i>point d’appui</i> to a certain -portion of the <i>peculative</i> cordon, enabling the soldiers to render -assistance to the revenue officers in bringing the smugglers to <i>terms</i>.</p> - -<p>Marbella has ever been a bone of contention amongst the antiquaries; -some asserting that it does not occupy the site of any ancient city; -others, that it is on the ruins of <i>Salduba</i>. Of this latter opinion is -La Martinière, who certainly has better reason for maintaining than -Carter for disputing it. For if that city “stood on a steep headland, -between which and the hill†(behind) “not a beast could pass,†it could -not possibly have been on the site where our countryman places it, viz., -at the ruins near the <i>Torre de las Bovedas</i> (seven miles to the -westward), where a wide plain stretches inland upwards of two miles.</p> - -<p>In fact, there are but two headlands between the river Guadiaro and -Marbella, where a town<a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a> could be built at all answering the foregoing -description; namely, at the <i>Torre de la Chullera</i> and the <i>Torre del -Arroyo Vaquero</i>, the former only three, the latter ten miles from the -Guadiaro: and a far more likely spot than either of these is the knoll -occupied by the <i>Torre del Rio Real</i>, about two miles to the <i>eastward</i> -of Marbella.<a name="FNanchor_178_178" id="FNanchor_178_178"></a><a href="#Footnote_178_178" class="fnanchor">[178]</a></p> - -<p>Marbella stands slightly elevated above the sea, and its turreted walls -and narrow streets declare it to be thoroughly Moorish. Its sea-wall is -not actually washed by the waves of the Mediterranean, so that the town -may be avoided by such as do not wish to be delayed by or subjected to -the nuisance of a passport scrutiny; and the Spanish saying, “<i>Marbella -es bella, pero no entras en ella</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_179_179" id="FNanchor_179_179"></a><a href="#Footnote_179_179" class="fnanchor">[179]</a> significantly, though -mysteriously, suggests the prudence of staying outside its walls; but -this poetical scrap of advice was perhaps the only thing some luckless -<i>contrabandista</i> had left to bestow upon his countrymen, and we, being -in search of a dinner and night’s lodging, submitted patiently to the -forms and ceremonies prescribed on such occasions at the gates of a -fortress.</p> - -<p>To do the Spaniards justice, they are not usually very long in their -operations, the first offer being in most instances accepted without<a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a> -haggling; and accordingly, the <i>peseta</i> pocketed, and every thing -pronounced <i>corriente</i>, we proceeded without further obstruction to the -<i>Posada de la Corona</i>, which, situated in a fine airy square, we were -agreeably surprised to find a remarkably good inn.</p> - -<p>Marbella, though invested with the pomp and circumstance of war, is but -a contemptible fortress. An old Moorish castle, standing in the very -heart of the town, constitutes its chief strength; for, though its -circumvallation is complete and tolerably erect, considering its great -age, yet, from the inconsiderable height of the walls, and the -inefficient flanking fire that protects them, they could offer but -slight resistance to an enemy.</p> - -<p>A detached fort, that formerly covered the place from attack on the sea -side, and flanked the eastern front of the enceinte of the town, has -been razed to the ground, so that ships may now attack it almost with -impunity.</p> - -<p>The town is particularly clean and well inhabited, the fishing portion -of the population being located more conveniently for their occupation -in a large suburb on its eastern side. The fortress encloses several -large churches and religious houses, besides the citadel or Moorish -castle, so that within the walls the space left for streets is but -small; the inhabitants of the town itself cannot therefore be estimated -at more<a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a> than five thousand, whilst those of the suburb may probably -amount to fifteen hundred.</p> - -<p>The trade of Marbella is but trifling; the fruit and vegetables grown in -its neighbourhood are, it is true, particularly fine, but the proximity -of the precipitous Sierra de Juanal limits cultivation to a very narrow -circuit round the walls of the town; and, on the other hand, the -valuable mines in the vicinity, which formerly secured Marbella a -prosperous trade, have for many years been totally abandoned: so that, -in fact, there is little else than fish to export.</p> - -<p>There is no harbour, but vessels find excellent holding ground and in -deep water, close to the shore; the landing also is good, being on a -fine hard sand, and I found a small pier in progress of construction.</p> - -<p>It seems probable that in remote times numerous commercial towns were -situated along the coast, between Malaca and Calpe, whence a thriving -trade was carried on with the East, for the whole chain of mountains -bordering the Mediterranean abounds in metallic ores, especially along -that part of the coast between Marbella and Estepona; and it is evident -that mining operations on an extensive scale were formerly carried on -here, since the tumuli formed by the earth excavated in searching for -the precious metals are yet to be seen, as well as the<a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a> bleached -channels by which the water that penetrated into the mines was led down -the sides of the mountains.</p> - -<p>The metals contained in this range of mountains are, principally, -silver, copper, lead, and iron; of the two former I have seen some very -fine specimens.</p> - -<p>The richness and comparative proximity of these mines led the -PhÅ“nicians and Romans, by whom there is no doubt they were worked, to -neglect the copper mines of Cornwall; for, whilst necessity obliged them -to come to England for tin, it is observable that in many places, where, -in working for that metal, they came also upon lodes of copper, they -carried away the tin only; a circumstance that has rendered some of the -recently worked Cornish copper mines singularly profitable, and leads -naturally to the supposition that the ancients procured copper at a less -expense from some other country.</p> - -<p>In the same way that the old Roman mines in England, from our knowledge -of the vast power of steam, and of the means of applying that power to -hydraulical purposes, have been reopened with great advantage, so also -might those of Spain be again worked with a certainty of success. -Capital and security—the two great wants of Spain—are required however -to enable adventurers to embark in the undertaking.<a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a></p> - -<p>Marbella is four leagues from Estepona, and ten from Gibraltar; but -though the first four may be reckoned at the usual rate of four miles -each, yet the remaining six cannot be calculated under four and a half -each, making the whole distance to Gibraltar forty-three miles, and from -Malaga to Gibraltar seventy-nine miles.<a name="FNanchor_180_180" id="FNanchor_180_180"></a><a href="#Footnote_180_180" class="fnanchor">[180]</a></p> - -<p><a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang">A PROVERB NOT TO BE LOST SIGHT OF WHILST TRAVELLING IN SPAIN—ROAD -TO MONDA—SECLUDED VALLEY OF OJEN—- MONDA—DISCREPANCY OF OPINION -RESPECTING THE SITE OF THE ROMAN CITY OF MUNDA—IDEAS OF MR. CARTER -ON THE SUBJECT—REASONS ADDUCED FOR CONCLUDING THAT MODERN MONDA -OCCUPIES THE SITE OF THE ANCIENT CITY—ASSUMED POSITIONS OF THE -CONTENDING ARMIES OF CNEIUS POMPEY AND CÆSAR, IN THE VICINITY OF -THE TOWN—ROAD TO MALAGA—TOWNS OF COIN AND ALHAURIN—BRIDGE OVER -THE GUADALJORCE—RETURN TO GIBRALTAR—NOTABLE INSTANCE OF THE -ABSURDITY OF QUARANTINE REGULATIONS.</p></div> - -<p>“<i>M<small>AS</small> vale paxaro en mano, que buytre volando</i>"—<i>Anglicè</i>, a bird in -the hand is worth more than a vulture flying—is a proverb that cannot -be too strongly impressed upon the minds of travellers in Spain; and, -acting up to the spirit of this wise saw, we did not leave our -comfortable quarters at the <i>Posada de la Corona</i> until after having -made sure of a breakfast. For, deeming even a cup of milk at Marbella -worth more than a herd of goats up the sierra, there appeared yet more -reason to think that no venta on the unfrequented mountain track by -which we purposed returning to Malaga could furnish anything<a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a> half so -estimable as the <i>café au lait</i> promised overnight, and placed before us -soon after daybreak.</p> - -<p>We commenced ascending the steep side of the <i>Sierra de Juanal</i> -immediately on leaving Marbella, and, in something under an hour, -reached a pass, on the summit of a ridge, whence a lovely view opens to -the north. The little town of Ojen lies far down below, embosomed in a -thicket of walnut, chesnut, and orange trees; whilst all around rise -lofty sierras, clothed, like the valley, with impervious woods, though -with foliage of a darker hue, their forest covering consisting -principally of cork and ilex. Numerous torrents, (whose foaming streams -can only occasionally be seen dashing from rock to rock amidst the dense -foliage) furrow the sides of the impending ridges, directing their -course towards the little village, threatening, seemingly, to overwhelm -it by their united strength; but, wasting their force against the -cragged knoll on which it stands, they collect in one body at its foot, -and, as if exhausted by the struggle, flow thenceforth tranquilly -towards the Mediterranean, meandering through rich vineyards, and under -verdant groves of arbutus, orange, and oleander.</p> - -<p>Excepting by this outlet, along the precipitous edge of which our road -was practised, there seemed to be no possibility of leaving the<a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a> sylvan -valley, so completely is it hemmed in by wood and mountain. The descent -from the pass occupied nearly as much time as had been employed in -clambering up to it from the sea-coast, but the road is better.</p> - -<p>The situation of the little town, on the summit of a scarped rock, -clustered over with ivy and wild vines, and moistened by the spray of -the torrents that rush down on either side, is most romantic; the place, -however, is miserable in the extreme, containing some two hundred -wretched hovels, mostly mud-built, and huddled together as if for mutual -support.</p> - -<p>An ill-conditioned <i>pavé</i> zigzags up to it, and proceeds onwards along -the edge of a deep ravine towards Monda. The woods, rocks, and water -afford ever-varying and enchanting vistas, but, from the vile state of -the road, it is somewhat dangerous to pay much attention to the beauties -of nature.</p> - -<p>In something more than an hour from Ojen, we reached a pass in the -northern part of the mountain-belt that girts it in, whence we took a -last lingering look at the lovely valley, compared to which the country -now lying before us appeared tame and arid.</p> - -<p>The fall of the mountain on the western side is much more gradual than -towards the Mediterranean, and the road—which does not however improve -in due proportion—descends by an<a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a> easy slope towards the little river -Seco. The valley, at first, is wide, open, and uncultivated; but, at the -end of about a mile, it contracts to an inconsiderable breadth, and the -steep hills that border it give signs of the husbandman’s toils, being -every where planted with vines and olive trees.</p> - -<p>Arriving now at the margin of the <i>Seco</i>, the road crosses and recrosses -the rivulet repeatedly, in consequence of the rugged nature of its -banks, and, at length, quitting the pebbly bed of the stream, and -crossing over a lofty mountain ridge that overlooks it to the east, the -stony track brings us to Monda, which is nestled in a deep ravine on the -opposite side of the mountain, and commanded by an old castle situated -on a rocky knoll to the north-west.</p> - -<p>The view from the summit of this mountain is very extensive, embracing -the greater portion of the <i>Hoya</i> de Malaga, the distant sea-bound city, -and yet more remote sierras of Antequera, Alhama, and Granada. The -descent to Monda is extremely bad, though by no means rapid. The -distance of this place from Marbella is stated in the Spanish -Itineraries to be three leagues, but the incessant windings of the road -make it fourteen miles, at least. The houses of Monda are mostly poor, -though some of the streets are wide and good. The population is -estimated at 2,000 souls.<a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a></p> - -<p>It is to this day a mooted question amongst Spanish antiquaries whether -Monda, or Ronda <i>la Vieja</i>, (as some of them call the ruins of -Acinippo), or any other of several supposed places, be the Roman -<i>Munda</i>, where Cneius Scipio gave battle to the Carthaginian generals, -Mago and Asdrubal, <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> 211, and near whose walls Julius Cæsar concluded -his wonderful career of victory by the defeat of Cneius Pompey the -younger, <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> 42.</p> - -<p>From this discrepancy of opinion, and the inaccuracy of the Spanish -maps, I am induced to offer the following observations (the result of a -careful examination of the country), touching the site of this once -celebrated spot. And, first, with respect to Ronda and Ronda <i>la Vieja</i>, -I may repeat what I have already stated in a former chapter, that -neither the situation of those places, nor the nature of the ground in -their vicinity, agrees in any one respect with the description of Munda -and its battle-field, as given by Hirtius;<a name="FNanchor_181_181" id="FNanchor_181_181"></a><a href="#Footnote_181_181" class="fnanchor">[181]</a> nor, from discoveries -that have recently been made, does there appear to be any ground left -for doubting that those places occupy the sites of Arunda and Acinippo.</p> - -<p>Of the other positions which have been assigned to <i>Munda</i>, that most -insisted upon is a spot “three leagues to the <i>west</i> of the present town -of Monda,â€<a name="FNanchor_182_182" id="FNanchor_182_182"></a><a href="#Footnote_182_182" class="fnanchor">[182]</a> and here Carter, adopting the opinion of Don Diego -Mendoza, confidently<a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a> places it, stating that bones of men and horses -had, in former days, been dug up there; that the peasants called the -spot <i>Monda la Vieja</i>, and averred they sometimes saw squadrons of -apparitions fighting in the air with cries and shouts!</p> - -<p>Such a host of circumstantial and phantasmagorical evidence our -countryman considered irresistible, and concluded, accordingly, that -this spot could be no other than that whereon the two mighty Roman -armies contended for empire. He admits, however, that, even in the days -of his precursor, Don Diego, “scarcely any ruins were to be found, the -<i>whole</i> having by degrees been transplanted to modern Monda and other -places.†Why they should have been carried three leagues across some of -the loftiest mountains in the country, to be used merely as building -stones, he does not attempt to explain, but, believing such to be the -case, one wonders it never struck him as being somewhat extraordinary -that these pugnacious ghosts should continue fighting for a town of -which not a stone remains.</p> - -<p>But, leaving Mr. Carter for the present, I will retrace my steps to -modern Monda, where it must be acknowledged some little difficulty is -experienced in fitting the Roman city to the spot allotted to it on the -maps, as well as in placing the contending armies upon the ground in its -neighbourhood, so as to agree with the<a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a> order in which they were arrayed -on the authority of Hirtius. Still, with certain admissions, which -admissions I do not consider it by any means unreasonable to beg, all -apparent discrepancies may be reconciled and difficulties overcome; and, -on the other hand, unless these points be granted, Ronda, Gaucin, or -Gibraltar agree just as well with the Munda of the Roman historian as -the little town of Monda I am about to describe.</p> - -<p>It will be necessary, however, for the perfect understanding of the -subject,—and, I trust, my endeavour to establish the site of Cæsar’s -last battle-field will be considered one of sufficient interest to -warrant a little prolixity,—to take a glance at the country in the -vicinity of Monda, ere proceeding to describe the actual ground whereon, -according to my idea, the contending armies were drawn up; as it is only -from a knowledge of the country, and of the communications that -intersected it, that the reasons can be gathered for such a spot having -been selected for a field of battle.</p> - -<p>The old castle of Monda, under the walls of which we must suppose—for -this is one of the premised admissions—the town to have been clustered, -instead of being, as at present, sunk in a ravine, stands on the eastern -side of a rocky ridge, projected in a northerly direction from the lofty -and wide-spreading mountain-range,<a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a> that borders the Mediterranean -between Malaga and Estepona. This range is itself a ramification of the -great mountain-chain that encircles the basin of Ronda, from which it -branches off in a southerly direction, and under the names of Sierras of -Tolox, Blanca, Arboto, and Juanal, presents an almost impassable barrier -between the valley of the Rio Verde (which falls into the Mediterranean, -three miles west of Marbella), and the fertile plains bordering the -Guadaljorce.</p> - -<p>This steep and difficult ridge terminates precipitously about Marbella; -but another branch of the range, sweeping round the little town of Ojen, -turns back for some miles to the north, rises in two lofty peaks above -Monda, and then, taking an easterly direction, juts into the -Mediterranean at Torre Molinos. The towns of Coin and Alhaurin are -situated, like Monda, on rocky projections from the north side of this -range, overhanging the vale of Malaga; and the solitary town of Mijas -stands upon its southern acclivity, looking towards the sea.</p> - -<p>The rugged ramification on which Monda is situated stretches north about -two miles from the double-peaked sierra above mentioned; and though -completely overlooked by that mountain, yet, in every other direction, -it commands all the ground in its immediate neighbourhood, and, without -being very elevated, is every where<a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a> steep, and difficult of access. The -summit of the ridge is indented by various rounded eminences, and, -consequently, is of very unequal breadth, as well as height. The castle -of Monda stands on one of these knolls, but quite on the eastern side of -the hill, the breadth of which, in this place, scarcely exceeds 400 -yards. At its furthest extremity, however, the ridge, which extends -northward, <i>nearly a mile</i>, beyond the town, sends out a spur to the -east, following the course of, and falling abruptly to the Rio Seco; and -the breadth of the hill may here be said to be increased to nearly two -miles.</p> - -<p>Between the river Seco and the Rio Grande (a more considerable stream, -which runs nearly parallel to, and about seven miles from the Seco), the -country, though rudely moulded, is by no means lofty; but round the -sources of the latter river, and along its left bank, rise the huge -sierras of Junquera, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, closing the view from -Monda to the north.</p> - -<p>From the description here given it will be apparent, that the -communications across so mountainous a country must not only be few, but -very bad. Such, indeed, is the asperity of the sierras west of Monda, -that no road whatever leads through them; and, to the south, but one -tolerable road presents itself to cross the lateral ridge, bordering the -Mediterranean,<a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a> between Marbella and Torre Molinos, viz., that by which -we had traversed it.</p> - -<p>Even on the other half circle round Monda, where the country is of a -more practicable nature, only two roads afford the means of access to -that town, viz., one from Guaro, where the different routes from Ronda -(by Junquera), El Burgo, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, unite; the other -from Coin, upon which place, from an equal necessity, those from Alora, -Antequera, and Malaga, are first directed.</p> - -<p>Monda thus becomes the point of concentration of all the roads -proceeding from the inland towns to Marbella; the pass of Ojen, in its -rear, offering the only passage through the mountains to reach that -city.</p> - -<p>The road from this pass, as has already been described, approaches Monda -by the valley watered by the river Seco; which stream, directed in the -early part of its course by the Sierra de Monda on its right, flows -nearly due north for about a mile and a half beyond where the road to -Monda leaves its bank, receiving in its progress several tributary -streams that rise in the mountains on its left. On gaining the northern -extremity of the ridge of Monda, the rivulet winds round to the -eastward, still washing the base of that mountain, but leaving the hilly -country on its left bank, along which a plain thenceforth stretches for -several miles.<a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a> The stream again, however, becomes entangled in some -broken and intricate country, ere reaching the wide plain of the -Guadaljorce, into which river it finally empties itself.</p> - -<p>The situation of Monda, with reference to the surrounding country, -having now been fully described, it is necessary, ere proceeding to shew -that the ground in its neighbourhood answers perfectly the account given -of it by Hirtius, to offer some remarks on the causes that may be -supposed to have led to a collision between the hostile Roman armies on -such a spot, since the present unimportant position of Monda seems to -render such an event very improbable.</p> - -<p>Cæsar, it would appear, after the fall of Ategua, proceeded to lay siege -to Ventisponte and Carruca—two places, whose positions have baffled the -researches of the most learned antiquaries to determine—his object, -evidently, having been to induce Pompey to come to their relief. His -adversary, however, was neither to be forced nor tempted to depart from -his politic plan of “drawing the war out into length;†but, retiring -into the mountains, compelled Cæsar, whose interest it was, on the other -hand, to bring the contest to as speedy an issue as possible, to follow -him into a more defensible country.</p> - -<p>With this view, leaving the wide plain watered<a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a> by the Genil and -Guadaljorce on the northern side of the mountains, Pompey, we may -imagine, retired towards the Mediterranean, and stationed himself at -Monda; a post that not only afforded him a formidable defensive -position, but that gave him the means of resuming hostilities at -pleasure, since it commanded the roads from Cartama to Hispalis -(Seville), by way of Ronda, and from Malaca, along the Mediterranean -shore, to CarteÃa,<a name="FNanchor_183_183" id="FNanchor_183_183"></a><a href="#Footnote_183_183" class="fnanchor">[183]</a> where his fleet lay; and, should his adversary -not follow him, the situation thus fixed upon was admirably adapted for -carrying the war into the country in arms against him, the two opulent -cities of Cartama and Malaca (which there is every reason to conclude -were attached to the cause of Cæsar), being within a day’s march of -Monda.</p> - -<p>Here, therefore, Pompey occupied a strategical point of great -importance; and Cæsar, fully aware of the advantage its possession gave -his opponent, determined to attack him at all risks.</p> - -<p>The hostile armies were separated from each other by a plain five miles -in extent.<a name="FNanchor_184_184" id="FNanchor_184_184"></a><a href="#Footnote_184_184" class="fnanchor">[184]</a> That of Cæsar was drawn up in this plain, his cavalry<a name="page_394" id="page_394"></a> -posted on the left; whilst the army of Pompey, whose cavalry was -stationed on <i>both</i> wings, occupied a strong position on a range of -mountains, protected on one side by the town of Munda, “<i>situated on an -eminence</i>;†on the other, by the nature of the ground, “<i>for across this -valley</i>†(i.e. that divided the two armies), “<i>ran a rivulet, which -rendered the approach to the mountain extremely difficult, because it -formed a morass on the right</i>.â€</p> - -<p>Now although the town of Munda is here described as protecting Pompey’s -army on one side, yet from what follows it must be inferred that it was -some distance in the rear of his position, since, not only is it stated -that “<i>Pompey’s army was at length obliged to give ground and retire -towards the town</i>,†but it may be taken for granted that, had either -flank rested upon the town, the cavalry would <i>not</i> have been posted on -“<i>both wings</i>.â€</p> - -<p>Moreover, it is stated that “<i>Cæsar made no doubt but that the enemy -would descend to the plain and come to battle</i>,†the superiority of -cavalry being greatly on Pompey’s side—“<i>but</i>,†Hirtius proceeds to -say, “<i>they durst not advance a mile from the town</i>,†and, in spite of -the advantageous opportunity offered them, “<i>still kept their post on -the mountain in the neighbourhood of the town</i>.â€</p> - -<p>It may therefore be fairly concluded, that<a name="page_395" id="page_395"></a> Pompey’s position was on the -edge of a range of hills, some little distance in advance of the town of -Munda, having a stream running in a deep valley along its front, and a -morass on one flank. Now the question is, Can the ground about Monda be -made to agree with these various premises? Certainly not, if, as is -generally assumed, the battle was fought on the eastern side of the -town; for Pompey’s position must, in that case, have extended along the -ridge, so as to have the peaked Sierra, above Monda, on its right, and -the river Seco on its left, whilst Monda itself would have been an -advanced post of the line; and so far from there being a plain “<i>five -miles</i>†in extent in front, the country to the east of Monda—though for -some way but slightly marked—is, at the distance of <i>two</i> miles, so -abruptly broken as to render the drawing up of a Roman army impossible.</p> - -<p>In addition to these objections it will be obvious that the half of -Pompey’s cavalry on the right, would have been posted on a high -mountain, where it could not possibly act, whilst the whole of Cæsar’s -(on his left), would have been paralyzed by having to manÅ“uvre on the -acclivity of a steep mountain and against a fortified town, instead of -being kept in the valley of the river Seco, ready to fall upon the weak -part of the enemy’s line as soon as it should be broken.</p> - -<p>What, however, seems to me to be fatal to the<a name="page_396" id="page_396"></a> supposition that this was -the side of the town on which the battle was fought is, that Cæsar’s -army would have occupied the road by which alone the small portion of -Pompey’s army, that escaped, could have retired upon Cordoba.</p> - -<p>Against the supposition that the battle took place on the <i>western</i> side -of the ridge on which Monda is situated, the objections, though not so -numerous, are equally insurmountable; since there is nothing like a -plain whereon Cæsar’s army could have been drawn up; the valley of the -river Seco being so circumscribed that, for Pompey’s army to have -“<i>advanced a mile from Monda</i>,†it must not only have crossed the -stream, but mounted the rough hills that there border its left bank; -whereas Cæsar’s army is stated to have been posted in a plain that -extended five miles from Monda. The half of Pompey’s cavalry on the -<i>left</i> would, in this case also, have been uselessly posted on an -eminence. In other respects the supposition is admissible enough, since -Monda would have been in the rear of the left of Pompey’s position, but -still a support to the line, and the whole front would have been -“<i>difficult of approach</i>,†and along the course of a rivulet.</p> - -<p>We will now examine the ground to the north of the town, to which it -strikes me no insuperable objections can be raised.<a name="page_397" id="page_397"></a></p> - -<p>We may suppose that Pompey took post with his army fronting Toloz and -Guaro, the only direction in which his enemy could be looked for, and -where the ground is so little broken, as certainly to allow of its being -called <i>a plain</i>, as compared with the rugged country that encompasses -it on all sides; and his position would naturally have been taken up -along the edge of the last ramification of the ridge of Monda, which -extends about two miles from west to east along the right bank of the -river Seco.</p> - -<p>The town would then have been half a mile or so <i>in rear</i> of the left -centre of Pompey’s position; <i>a rivulet</i>, “<i>rendering the approach of -the mountain difficult</i>,†would have run along its front. His cavalry -would naturally have been disposed on <i>both flanks</i>, where, the hills -terminating, it would be most at hand either to act offensively, or for -the security of the position; and the cavalry of Cæsar, on the contrary, -would <i>all</i> have been posted on <i>his</i> left, where the access to Pompey’s -position was easiest, and where, in case of his enemy’s defeat, its -presence would have produced the most important results.</p> - -<p>We may readily conceive, also, that in times past <i>a morass</i> bordered -the Seco where it first enters the plain, since several mountain streams -there join it, whose previously rapid currents must have experienced a -check on reaching this<a name="page_398" id="page_398"></a> more level country. The industrious Moslems, -probably, by bringing this fertile plain into cultivation, drained the -morass so that no traces of it are now perceptible, but twenty years -hence there may possibly be another.</p> - -<p>Every condition required, therefore, to make the ground agree with the -description given of it by Hirtius, is here fulfilled; and, occupying -such a position, the army of Pompey seemed likely to obtain the ends -which we cannot but suppose its general had in view.</p> - -<p>The objections of Mr. Carter to modern Monda being the site of the Roman -city are, first, the want of space in its vicinity for two such vast -hosts to be drawn up in battle array; and, secondly, the little distance -of the existing town from the river Sigila and city of Cártama, which, -according to an ancient inscription, referring to the repairs of a road -from Munda to Cártama, he states was twenty miles.</p> - -<p>In consequence of these imaginary discrepancies, he suffered himself to -be persuaded that the spot where the apparitions are fighting “three -leagues to the westward of the modern town,†is the site of the Roman -<i>Munda</i>. In which case it must have been situated in a <i>narrow valley</i>, -bounded on all sides by lofty mountains, and <i>twenty-eight</i> Roman miles, -at least, from the city of Cártama!</p> - -<p>With respect to his first objections, however,<a name="page_399" id="page_399"></a> it may be observed, that -the <i>want of space</i> can only apply to the army posted on the mountain, -for, on the level country between its base and the village of Guaro, an -army of any amount might be drawn up. And as regards the mountain, as I -have already stated, its north front offers a strong position, nearly -two miles in extent, and one in depth. Now, considering the compact -order in which Roman armies were formed; the number of lines in which -they were in the habit of being drawn up; and making due allowance for -exaggeration<a name="FNanchor_185_185" id="FNanchor_185_185"></a><a href="#Footnote_185_185" class="fnanchor">[185]</a> in the number of the contending hosts; such a space, I -should say, was more than sufficient for Pompey’s army.</p> - -<p>In reply to the second objection urged by Mr. Carter, I may, in the -first place, observe, that the inscription whereon it is grounded—</p> - -<p class="c"><big>* -* -* -* -* </big> -</p> - -<p class="c"><small> -A MVNDA ET FLVVIO SIGILA<br /> -AD CERTIMAM VSQVE XX M.P.P.S. RESTITVIT.</small><a name="FNanchor_186_186" id="FNanchor_186_186"></a><a href="#Footnote_186_186" class="fnanchor">[186]</a>—</p> - -<p class="nind">seems to have no reference to the actual distance between Munda and -Cártama, since, by attaching any such meaning to it—coupled as<a name="page_400" id="page_400"></a> Munda -is with the river Sigila—the inscription, to one acquainted with the -country, becomes quite unintelligible.</p> - -<p>Thus, if translated: “From Munda and the river Sigila, he (i. e. the -Emperor Hadrian) restored the twenty miles of road to Cártama,†any one -would naturally conclude that Munda was upon the Sigila, and Cártama at -a distance of twenty miles from it; whereas, whatever may have been the -situation of Munda, Cártama certainly stood upon the very bank of the -river.</p> - -<p>It must, therefore, either have been intended to imply that the Emperor -restored twenty miles of a road which from Munda and the sources,<a name="FNanchor_187_187" id="FNanchor_187_187"></a><a href="#Footnote_187_187" class="fnanchor">[187]</a> -or upper part of the course of the Sigila, led to Cártama, and various -traces of such a Roman road exist to this day on the road to Ronda by -Junquera; or, that the road from Munda was conducted along part of the -course of the Sigila ere it reached Cártama: and such, from the nature -of the ground, undoubtedly was the case, since Cártama stood at the -eastern foot of a steep mountain, the northern extremity of which must -(in military parlance) have been turned, to reach it from Monda, and the -road, in making this détour, would first reach the river Guadaljorce, or -Sigila.<a name="page_401" id="page_401"></a></p> - -<p>In this case it must be admitted that the <i>twenty miles</i> refer to the -actual distance between the two towns, and this tends only more firmly -to establish modern Monda on the site of the Roman town, since the -distance from thence to Cártama, measured with <i>a pair of compasses</i> on -a <i>correct</i> map,<a name="FNanchor_188_188" id="FNanchor_188_188"></a><a href="#Footnote_188_188" class="fnanchor">[188]</a> is fourteen English miles, which are equal to -fifteen Roman of seventy-five to a degree, or seventeen of eighty-three -and one third to a degree; and considering the hilly nature of the -country which the road must unavoidably have traversed, the distance -would have been fully increased to twenty miles, either by the ascents -and descents if carried in a straight line from place to place, or by -describing a very circuitous course if taken along the valley of the Rio -Seco.</p> - -<p>Carter further remarked upon the foregoing inscription that “it seems to -place†Munda to the <i>west</i> of the river Sigila, which ran <i>between</i> that -town and Cártama; but this, he said, does not agree with the situation -of modern Monda, which is on the same side the river as Cártama.</p> - -<p>I suppose for <i>west</i> he meant to say <i>east</i>, but, in either case, his -assumed site for Munda, “three leagues to the west of the present town,†-is open to this very same objection, and to the yet graver one, of -being—even allowing that he<a name="page_402" id="page_402"></a> meant English leagues—<i>twenty-three -English miles</i> in a <i>direct</i> line from the town of Cártama, and in a -contracted and secluded valley, to the possession of which, no military -importance could possibly have been attached.</p> - -<p>On the whole, therefore, I see no reason to doubt what, for so many -years was looked upon as certain, viz., that the modern town of Monda is -on the site of the ancient city. I must nevertheless own that in -following strictly the text of Hirtius, an objection presents itself to -this spot with reference to the relative position of Ursao; that is, if -Osuna be Ursao; since, in allusion to Pompey’s resolve to receive battle -at Munda, he says that Ursao “served as a sure resource <i>behind</i> -him.â€<a name="FNanchor_189_189" id="FNanchor_189_189"></a><a href="#Footnote_189_189" class="fnanchor">[189]</a></p> - -<p>This objection holds equally good with the position Carter assigns to -Munda; but that there is some error respecting Ursao is evident, for, if -Osuna be Ursao, then Hirtius described it most incorrectly by saying it -was exceedingly strong by nature, and eight miles distant from any -rivulet.<a name="FNanchor_190_190" id="FNanchor_190_190"></a><a href="#Footnote_190_190" class="fnanchor">[190]</a> And, on the other hand, it is clear that Ursao did <i>not</i> -serve as a <i>sure</i> resource to Pompey, since no part of his defeated army -found refuge there.</p> - -<p>We must read this passage, therefore, as implying rather that Pompey -<i>calculated</i> on Orsao as a place of refuge, but that, by the able -man<a name="page_403" id="page_403"></a>Å“uvres of his adversary, he was cut off from it. Now a town -placed high up in the mountains like Alozaina, or Junquera, and like -them distant from any stream but that which rises within their walls, -answers the description of Orsao, much better than Osuna;<a name="FNanchor_191_191" id="FNanchor_191_191"></a><a href="#Footnote_191_191" class="fnanchor">[191]</a> and, -supposing one of these, or any other town in the vicinity, similarly -situated, to have been Orsao, Pompey might have flattered himself that -he could fall back upon it in the event of being defeated at Monda. -Cæsar, however, by moving along the valley of the Seco, and, taking post -in the plain to the north of Pompey’s position, effectually deprived him -of this resource.</p> - -<p>The modern town of Monda contains numerous fragments of monuments, -inscriptions, &c., which, though none of them actually prove it to be on -the site of the ancient place of the same name, satisfactorily shew that -it stands near some old Roman town, and that, therefore, to call it -<i>new</i> Monda, in contradistinction to <i>Monda la vieja</i>, is absurd.</p> - -<p>The road to Coin traverses a succession of tongues, which, protruding -from the side of the steep Sierra de Monda on the right, fall gradually -towards the Rio Seco, which flows about a mile off on the left. For the -first three miles the undulations are very gentle, and the face of<a name="page_404" id="page_404"></a> the -country is covered with corn, but, on arriving at the Peyrela, a rapid -stream that rushes down from the mountains in a deep rocky gully, the -ground becomes much more broken, and the hills on both sides are thickly -wooded. The road, nevertheless, continues very good, and in about two -miles more reaches Coin.</p> - -<p>The approach to this town is very beautiful. It is situated some way up -the northern acclivity of a high wooded hill, and commands a splendid -view of the valley of the Guadaljorce.</p> - -<p>Coin is supposed to be of Moorish origin, and, from the amenity of its -situation, abundance of crystal springs and fruitfulness of its -orchards, was, no doubt, a favourite place of retreat with the turbaned -conquerors of Spain. Nor are its merits altogether lost upon the present -less contemplative race of inhabitants, for they flee to its pure -atmosphere whenever any endemic disease frightens them from the close -and crowded streets of filthy Malaga.</p> - -<p>During the last few years that the divided Moslems yet endeavoured to -struggle against the fate that too clearly awaited them, the fields of -Coin were doomed to repeated devastations, though the city itself still -set the Christian hosts at defiance; but at length the artillery of -Ferdinand and Isabella reduced it to submission, A.D. 1485.<a name="page_405" id="page_405"></a></p> - -<p>The population of Coin is estimated by the Spanish authorities at 9000 -souls, but I should say it is considerably less. The houses are good, -streets well paved, and the place altogether is clean and wholesome.</p> - -<p>The posada, except in outward appearance, is not in keeping with the -town. It is a large white-washed building, with great pretensions and -small comfort. We left it at daybreak without the least regret, carrying -our breakfast with us to enjoy <i>al fresco</i>.</p> - -<p>At the foot of the hill two roads to Malaga offer themselves, one by way -of Cártama (distant ten miles), which turns the Sierra GibalgalÃa to the -north, the other by Alhaurin, which crosses the neck of land connecting -that mountain with the more lofty sierras to the south. The distance is -pretty nearly the same by both, and is reckoned five leagues, but the -<i>leguas</i> are any thing but <i>regulares</i>, and may be taken at an average -of four miles and a half each. The first named is a carriage road, and -the country flat nearly all the way; we therefore chose the latter, as -likely to be more picturesque.</p> - -<p>In about an hour from Coin, we reached a clear stream, which, confined -in a deep gulley, singularly scooped out of the solid rock, winds round -at the back of Alhaurin, and tumbles over a precipice on the side of the -impending<a name="page_406" id="page_406"></a> mountain. The crystal clearness of the water and beauty of -the spot, tempted us to halt and spread the contents of our alforjas on -the green bank of the rivulet, though the white houses of Alhaurin, -situated immediately above, peeped out from amidst trelissed vines and -perfumed orange groves, seeming to beckon us on. But appearances are -proverbially deceitful all over the world, and more especially in -Spanish towns, as we had recently experienced at Coin.</p> - -<p>Our repast finished, we remounted our horses, and ascended the steep -acclivity, on the lap of which the town stands. The environs are -beautifully wooded, and the place contains many tasteful houses and -gardens, wide, clean, and well-paved streets, abundance of refreshing -fountains, and groves of orange and other fruit trees, and, in fact, is -a most delightful place of abode. The view from it is yet finer than -from Coin, embracing, besides the fine chain of wooded sierras above -Alozaina and Casarabonela, the lower portion of the vale of Malaga, and -the splendid mountains that stretch into the Mediterranean beyond that -city. Nevertheless, in spite of these advantages, the scared -<i>Malagueños</i> consider Coin a more secure retreat from the dreaded yellow -fever than Alhaurin, perhaps because from the former even the view of -their abandoned city is intercepted.<a name="page_407" id="page_407"></a></p> - -<p>Alhaurin contains, probably, 5000 inhabitants. The road from thence to -Malaga is <i>carriageable</i> throughout. It winds along the side of the -mountain, continuing nearly on a dead level from the town to the summit -of the pass that connects the Sierra GibalgalÃa with the mountains of -Mijas; thence it descends gradually, by a long and rather confined -ravine, into the vale of Malaga.</p> - -<p>Arrived in the plain, it leaves the little village of Alhaurinejo about -half a mile off on the right, and at thirteen miles from Alhaurin -reaches a bridge over the Guadaljorce. This bridge, commenced on a -magnificent scale by one of the bishops of Malaga, was to have been -built entirely of stone; but, before the work was half completed, either -the worthy dignitary of the church came to the last of his days, or to -the bottom of his purse, and it is left to be completed, “<i>con el -tiempo</i>"—a very celebrated Spanish bridge-maker.</p> - -<p>Forty-four solid stone piers remain, however, to bear witness to the -good and liberal intentions of the bishop; and the weight of a rotten -wooden platform, which has since been laid down, to afford a passage -across the stream when swollen by the winter torrents, for at most other -times it is fordable.</p> - -<p>A road to the Retiro and Churriana continues<a name="page_408" id="page_408"></a> down the right bank of the -river; but that to Malaga crosses the bridge, and on gaining the left -bank of the river is joined by the roads from Casarabonda and Cártama. -From hence to Malaga is about five miles.</p> - -<p>On arriving at Malaga we found the dread of cholera had attained such a -height during our short absence, that the <i>Xebeque</i>, for Ceuta, had -sailed, whilst clean bills of health were yet issued. We also thought it -advisable to save our passports from being tainted, and, without further -loss of time, departed for Gibraltar by land. Our haste, however, booted -us but little; for, amongst the absurdities of quarantine be it -recorded, on reaching the British fortress, on the morning of the third -day from Malaga, admittance was refused, until we had undergone a three -days’ purification at San Roque. Thither we repaired, therefore; and -there we remained during the prescribed period, shaking hands daily with -our friends from the garrison, until the dreaded <i>virus</i> was supposed to -have parted with all its infectious properties. Our <i>decorated</i> -attendant had left us on reaching Malaga, promising to take the earliest -opportunity of acquainting us with the result of an ordeal, to which the -little blind God, in one of his most capricious moods, had been pleased -to subject two of his votaries.<a name="page_409" id="page_409"></a></p> - -<p>The circumstances attending this trial of <i>true love</i>, will be found -related in the following chapter, which contains also a sketch of the -previous history of the hero of the tale, the knight of San Fernando.<a name="page_410" id="page_410"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.<br /><br /> -<small>THE KNIGHT OF SAN FERNANDO.</small></h2> - -<p><i>D<small>ON</small> Fernando Septimo, por la gracia de Dios, rey de Castilla, de Leon, -de Aragon, de las dos Sicilias, de Jerusalem, de Navarra, de Granada, de -Toledo, de Valencia, de Galicia, de Mallorca, de Sevilla, de Cerdeña, de -Cordoba, de Corcega, de Murcia, de Jaen, de los Algarbes, de Algeciras, -de Gibraltar, de las islas de Canaria, de las Indias Orientales y -Occidentales, islas y tierra ferme del Mar Oceano; archiduque de -Austria; duque de Borgoña, de Brabante y de Milan; conde de Absparg, -Flandes, Tirol y Barcelona; señor de Viscaya y de Molina,<a name="FNanchor_192_192" id="FNanchor_192_192"></a><a href="#Footnote_192_192" class="fnanchor">[192]</a> &c.</i><a name="page_411" id="page_411"></a></p> - -<p>Such was the heading of the document which conferred the honour of -knighthood (silver cross of the first class of the royal and military -order of St. Ferdinand), upon <i>Don</i> Antonio Condé, a soldier of the -light company (cazadores) of the Queen’s, or second regiment of the -line, in acknowledgment of his distinguished services against the -<i>revolutionarios</i> of the <i>isla de Leon</i>, who surrendered at Bejer on the -8th March, 1831.</p> - -<p>The bearer of this <i>certificate</i> of gallant conduct—for the -gratification that its possession afforded his vanity was the only sense -in which it could be considered a <i>reward</i>—was in person rather below -the usual stature of the Andalusian peasantry; but his square shoulders, -open chest, and muscular limbs, bespoke him to be possessed of more than -their wonted strength and activity.</p> - -<p>In other respects too he differed somewhat from his countrymen, his hair -being light, even lighter than what they call <i>castaños</i>, or chestnut, -his chin beardless, and his eyes hazel. His manners were those of a -frank young soldier, rather, perhaps, of the French school, with a dash -of the <i>beau garçon</i> about him, but, on the whole, very prepossessing. -In his carriage to us, though rather inquisitive, he was at all times -respectful; but towards his fellow countrymen, not of <i>the cloth</i>, a -certain hauteur was<a name="page_412" id="page_412"></a> observable in his deportment, which clearly showed -that he prided himself on the “<i>Don</i>.â€</p> - -<p>The document, encased with the brevet of knighthood, of which mention -has before been made, briefly, but in very honourable terms, described -the gallant conduct of the young soldier, and forms the groundwork of -the following <i>memoir</i>; a circumstance I feel called upon to mention, -lest my hero should be wrongfully accused of vain-gloriously boasting of -his achievements; and this also will explain why his story is not, -throughout, told in the first person.</p> - -<p>The secluded little village of Guarda, which has been noticed in the -course of my peregrinations, as lying to the right of the high road from -Jaen to Granada (about five miles from the former city), was the -birth-place of Antonio Condé. His parents, though in a humble station of -life, were of <i>sangre limpio</i>;<a name="FNanchor_193_193" id="FNanchor_193_193"></a><a href="#Footnote_193_193" class="fnanchor">[193]</a> and never having heard of Malthus, -had married early, and most unphilosophically added a family of seven -human beings to the already overstocked population of this -wisdom-getting world.</p> - -<p>Five of these unfortunate mortals were daughters, and our hero was the -younger of the two masculine lumps of animated clay. His brother, who -was many years his senior, had joined the army at an early age, and at -the conclusion of the war had proceeded with his<a name="page_413" id="page_413"></a> regiment to the -Habana, where he still remained; their parents, therefore, now declining -in years, were anxious to keep their remaining son at home, to assist in -supporting the family. Such, however, was not to be the case, for, on -the <i>quintos</i> being called out in 1830, it fell to Antonio’s lot to be -one of the quota furnished by the district that included his native -village.</p> - -<p>To purchase a substitute was out of the question—the price was quite -beyond his parents’ means; and though his brother had, at various times, -transmitted money home, which, with praiseworthy foresight, had been -hoarded up to make some little provision for his sisters, but was now -urgently offered to buy him off, yet Antonio would not listen to its -being so applied. To confess the truth, indeed, he secretly rejoiced at -his lot, having always wished to be a soldier, though he could never -bring himself voluntarily to quit his aged parents. Now, he maintained, -there was no alternative; and accordingly, with the brilliant prospect -of making a fortune, which the military life opened to him, he marched -from his native village, and joined the Queen’s regiment, then quartered -at Seville, to the cazador company of which he was shortly afterwards -posted.</p> - -<p>Antonio’s zeal, and assiduous attention to his duties, as well as his -general good conduct and<a name="page_414" id="page_414"></a> intelligence, made him a great favourite with -his officers; whilst his youth, good humour, and gay disposition, -endeared him equally to his comrades, in whose amusements he generally -took the lead. In fact, he soon became the pattern man of the pattern -company, and attained the rank of corporal.</p> - -<p>Early in the month of March, 1831, the Queen’s regiment received orders -to proceed by forced marches to Cadiz, where the <i>soi-disant</i> -“liberals,†having again raised the standard of revolt, commenced the -work of regeneration by murdering the governor of the city in the -streets at noon day. The cold-blooded, calculating miscreants, who -committed this act, excused themselves for the premeditated murder of a -man <i>universally</i> beloved and respected, by saying it was necessary for -the success of their plans to commence with a blow that should strike -terror into the hearts of their opponents. They killed, therefore, the -most virtuous man they could select, to show that no one would be spared -who thenceforth ventured to entertain a doubt, that the constitution -they upheld was the <i>beau idéal</i> of liberal government; and, I regret to -say, Englishmen were found who applauded this atrocious doctrine, and -considered the subsequent punishment inflicted on Torrijos, and the -other abettors and instigators of this barbarity, as an act of -unprecedented cruelty<a name="page_415" id="page_415"></a> on the part of the “tyrant Ferdinand†and his -“<i>servile</i>†ministers.</p> - -<p>Antonio’s regiment proceeded to the scene of revolt by way of Utrera and -Xeres, and on reaching Puerto Santa Maria received orders to continue -its march round the head of the bay of Cadiz, and occupy, without delay, -the Puente Zuazo, with the view of confining the rebels to the isla de -Leon, their attempt to gain possession of Cadiz having failed, through -the loyalty and firmness of the troops composing its garrison.</p> - -<p>The rebels, however, effected their escape, ere the Queen’s regiment -reached its destined position, and had marched to Chiclana, in the hope -of being there joined by another band of “<i>facciosos</i>,†under an -ex-officer, named Torrijos; which, long collected in the bay, and -protected by the guns of Gibraltar, was to have effected a landing on -the coast to the westward of Tarifa, and marched thence to support the -ruffians of the isla.</p> - -<p>The royal troops were instantly sent in pursuit of the rebels, who, -abandoning Chiclana, fell back successively upon Conil and Vejer. The -strength of the position of this latter town induced them to make a -stand, and await the momentarily expected reinforcement under Torrijos; -and the King’s troops having assembled in considerable force at the foot -of the mountain, determined on attempting to dislodge<a name="page_416" id="page_416"></a> them from the -formidable post, ere they received this accession of strength; a sharp -conflict was the consequence, which terminated in the royalists being -repulsed with severe loss.</p> - -<p>Antonio, who was well acquainted with the ground, now respectfully -hinted to the captain of his company, that the retreat of the rebels -might be effectually cut off by taking possession of the bridge over the -Barbate, which—all the boats on the river having been destroyed—alone -offered the rebels the means of reaching Tarifa, or Torrijos that of -coming to the assistance of the blockaded town.</p> - -<p>The captain communicated our hero’s plans to the commander of the -expedition, who immediately adopted it, wisely abstaining from wasting -further blood to obtain a result by force, which starvation, sooner or -later, would be sure to bring about.</p> - -<p>In pursuance, therefore, of Antonio’s project, the Queen’s regiment -received orders to take possession of the bridge, and the <i>cazador</i> -company was pushed on with all speed, to facilitate the execution of -this rather difficult operation.</p> - -<p>The bridge, as I have described in a former chapter, is situated -immediately under the lofty precipitous cliff whereon the town of Vejer -is perched, and the road to it is conducted, for nearly half a mile, -along a narrow strip of level<a name="page_417" id="page_417"></a> ground, between the bank of the Barbate -and the foot of the precipice.</p> - -<p>In their advance, therefore, the <i>cazadores</i> were exposed to a most -destructive shower of bullets, stones, &c. from above, and, of the whole -company, only Corporal Condé, and seven of his comrades, made good their -way, and threw themselves into the venta; which stands on the right bank -of the stream, close to the bridge. They instantly opened a fire from -the windows of the inn upon the rebels in the town overhead, who, at -first, returned it with interest; but after some time Antonio was -beginning to flatter himself, from the slackening of their fusillade, -that he was making their post too hot for them, when, looking round, he -perceived the whole force of the <i>facciosos</i> descending from the town in -one long column, by the road which winds down to the bridge, round the -eastern face of the mountain, their intention evidently being to force a -passage <i>à todo precio</i>.<a name="FNanchor_194_194" id="FNanchor_194_194"></a><a href="#Footnote_194_194" class="fnanchor">[194]</a></p> - -<p>Antonio’s comrades were daunted; they had no officer with them; there -was no appearance of support being at hand; and the odds against them -were fearful. Prudence suggested, therefore, that they should shut -themselves up in the venta, and let the enemy pass.</p> - -<p>Our hero, however, saw how much depended on the decision of that moment. -If the rebels<a name="page_418" id="page_418"></a> succeeded in crossing the bridge, nothing could prevent -their forming a junction with the band of Torrijos, and in that case the -country might, for many months, be subjected to their outrages and -rapine, and Gibraltar would afford them a sure retreat; he determined, -therefore, to make an effort to intimidate them, and knowing the weight -his example would have upon his comrades, rushed out of the venta, -calling upon them to follow; and taking post behind some old walls, that -formed, as it were, a kind of <i>tête de pont</i>, opened a brisk fire upon -the advancing column of the enemy.</p> - -<p>The boldness of the manÅ“uvre intimidated the rebels, who, thinking -that this handful of men must be supported by a considerable force, -hesitated, halted for further orders, and, finally, threw out a line of -skirmishers to cover their movements, between whom and Antonio’s party a -sharp fire was kept up for several minutes.</p> - -<p>In this skirmish one of Antonio’s companions was killed, another fell -badly wounded by his side, and he himself received a wound in his head, -which, but that the ball had previously passed through the top of his -chako, would, probably, have been fatal.</p> - -<p>The rebels, discovering at length that the small force opposed to them -was altogether without support, again formed in column of attack to -force the bridge. The word “forward"<a name="page_419" id="page_419"></a> was given, and Antonio feared that -his devotion would prove of no avail, when, at the critical moment, the -remainder of his company advanced from behind the venta at the <i>pas de -charge</i>, rending the air with loud cries of “<i>Viva el Rey</i>,†and opening -a fire which took the enemy in flank.</p> - -<p>The rebels saw that the golden opportunity had been missed, and, seized -with a panic, retired hastily to their stronghold, closely pressed by -the <i>cazadores</i>, who hoped to enter the town pêle mêle with them.</p> - -<p>The commander of the king’s troops, who had galloped to the spot where -he heard firing, determined, however, to adhere to the plan of reducing -the rebels to starvation; which now, by Antonio’s gallantry, he was -certain of eventually effecting; and ordered, therefore, the recall to -be sounded as soon as he saw the enemy had regained the town. -Unfortunately for our hero, who, attended by a single comrade, was at -the extreme left of the extended line of skirmishers, and had taken -advantage of one of the deep gullies that furrow the side of the -mountain to advance unobserved on the enemy; he neither heard the signal -to retire, nor saw his companions fall back; continuing, therefore, to -advance, it was only on gaining the head of the ravine that he suddenly -became aware of the extreme peril of their situation, and that a quick<a name="page_420" id="page_420"></a> -retreat alone could save them. It was, however, too late; his -comrade—his bosom friend, Gaspar Herrera—fell, apparently dead, a -dozen paces from him, and he, himself, in the act of raising up his -brave companion, was brought to the ground by a ball, which splintered -his ankle-bone. He managed, with great difficulty, to crawl to some -palmeta bushes, having first sheltered the body of his friend behind the -stem of a stunted olive tree, which would not afford cover for both; -and, lying flat on the ground, waited for some time in the hope that his -company had merely moved round to the left to gain a more accessible -part of the mountain, and would speedily renew the attack.</p> - -<p>At length, his patience becoming exhausted, he thought it would be well -to let his comrades know where he was, and once more levelling his -musket, resumed the offensive by attacking a pig, which, unconscious of -danger, came grunting with carniverous purpose towards that part of the -gory field where the body of his friend Gaspar lay extended. This drew a -heavy fire upon Antonio, but, as he was much below the rebels, who had -all retired into the town, and was tolerably well sheltered by the -friendly palmetas, he escaped further damage.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile, Antonio and Gaspar had had been reported as killed to -the captain of the <i>cazadores</i>, who, whilst deploring with the<a name="page_421" id="page_421"></a> other -officers the loss of the two most promising young men of his company, -heard the renewed firing in the direction of the late skirmish. -“<i>Corajo!</i>†he exclaimed, “that must be Condé and Herrera still at it.†-“No, Señor,†replied the serjeant, “they were both seen to fall as we -retreated from the hill; that firing must be an attack upon our friends -posted on the other side of the town; the rebels are probably attempting -to force a passage in that direction.†“Well then, I cannot do wrong in -advancing,†said the captain, “so let us on. Nevertheless, I still think -it is the fire of Condé and his comrade, and I know, my brave fellows,†-he continued, addressing his men, “I know that if it be possible to -bring them off, you will do it.â€</p> - -<p>They advanced, accordingly, in the direction of the firing, and, as the -captain had conjectured, there they found Condé continuing the combat <i>à -l’outrance</i>, extended full length upon the ground under cover of the -palmeta bushes, with his head and ankle bandaged, and his ammunition -nearly exhausted. They fortunately succeeded in bearing him off without -sustaining any loss, though Condé insisted on their first removing the -seemingly lifeless body of his friend Gaspar, which he pointed out to -them.</p> - -<p>The detachment at the venta had now been reinforced by some cavalry and -artillery, and the remainder of the Queen’s regiment,<a name="page_422" id="page_422"></a> whilst the rest -of the Royalist force took post on the opposite side of the town, in a -position that covered the roads to Chiclana, Medina, Sidonia, and Alcalà -de los Gazules, thereby depriving the beleaguered rebels of all chance -of escape.</p> - -<p>Towards dusk that same evening, one of Torrijos’s troopers was brought -in a prisoner. Unconscious of the state of affairs, he had mistaken a -cavalry piquet of the king’s troops for the advanced guard of the -<i>facciosos</i>, and had not even discovered his error in time to destroy -the despatches of which he was the bearer. By these it was learnt that -Torrijos, apprized of the failure on Cadiz and subsequent escape of the -rebel-band from the Isla de Leon, had not budged from the spot where he -had effected his landing; but he now sent to acquaint his coadjutors -that he had collected a sufficiency of boats to take them all off, and -that the bearer would be their guide to the place of embarkation.</p> - -<p>This information was forwarded to the rebels at Vejer, who, not giving -credit to it, continued to hold out until the third day, when their -provisions being exhausted and no Torrijos appearing, they agreed to -capitulate, and were marched prisoners to the Isla, where, but a few -days before, “<i>Quantam est in rebus inane!</i>†they had styled themselves -the liberators of Spain.<a name="page_423" id="page_423"></a></p> - -<p>The queen’s regiment was now marched in all haste towards Tarifa, in the -hope of surprising and capturing Torrijos and his band, ere the news of -what had passed at Vejer could reach him, but he had taken the alarm at -the prolonged absence of his messenger, and, re-embarking his doughty -heroes, regained the anchorage of Gibraltar without having fired a shot -to assist their friends. The regiment, therefore, proceeded to -Algeciras, and from thence marched to San Roque, where it remained -stationary for several months.</p> - -<p>Here Antonio rejoined it, accompanied by his friend Herrera, who, thanks -to the timely surgical aid his comrade had been the means of procuring -him, yet lived to evince his gratitude to his preserver. Here, also, our -hero received the distinction which his gallant conduct had so well -earned, as well as the grant of a—to-this-day-unpaid—pension of a real -per diem. Promotion, too, was offered, but he chose rather to wait for a -vacancy in his own regiment than to receive immediate rank in any other.</p> - -<p>Our hero’s military career was shortly, however, doomed to be brought to -a close. He had resumed his duty but a few days, when an order arrived -for the queen’s regiment to proceed to Seville. The wound in Antonio’s -ankle, though apparently quite healed, had been suffered to close over -the bullet that had inflicted<a name="page_424" id="page_424"></a> it, and the first day’s march produced -inflammation of so dangerous a character as to threaten, not only the -loss of his shattered limb, but even of life itself.</p> - -<p>In this deplorable state Antonio was left behind at Ximena, where, -fortunately, an aunt of Gaspar resided. The good Dame Felipa required -only to hear the young soldier’s name—his noble act of friendship -having long made it familiar to her ear—to receive him as her son. -“Never can I forget her kindness,†said Antonio; “my own mother could -not have tended me with more unremitted attention, and—under the -Almighty—I feel that my recovery is entirely their work.†Here an -“<i>Ay!</i>†drawn seemingly from the innermost recess of his heart, escaped -from the young soldier’s lips, which, appearing quite out of keeping -with the terms in which he spoke of Dame Felipa’s <i>maternal</i> solicitude, -induced me, after a moment’s pause, to ask, “But who are <i>they</i>, -Antonio?â€</p> - -<p>“The aunt and sister of Gaspar,†he replied, with some little confusion.</p> - -<p>“And you find the wounds of Cupid more incurable than those of Bellona?†-said I, jestingly—“<i>Vamos</i>, Don Antonio! As Sancho says, ‘<i>Gusto mucho -destas cosas de amores</i>,’<a name="FNanchor_195_195" id="FNanchor_195_195"></a><a href="#Footnote_195_195" class="fnanchor">[195]</a> so let us have the sequel of your story -by all means."<a name="page_425" id="page_425"></a></p> - -<p>“I shall not be very long in relating it,†continued our hero. “For -three months I remained the guest of Doña Felipa. A fever, produced by -my intense sufferings, rendered me for many days quite insensible to the -extraordinary kindness of which I was the object; at length it was -subdued, leaving me, however, so reduced, that for weeks I could not -quit my couch. Indeed, the most perfect repose was ordered on account of -my wound, the cure of which was rendered far more tedious and -troublesome from former mismanagement. During this long period, the -sister of my friend Gaspar was my constant attendant. She read to me, -sang to me, or touched the guitar to break—what she imagined must -be—the wearisome monotony of my confinement. I have even, when -consciousness first returned, on the abatement of the fever, heard her, -thinking I was sleeping, <i>pray</i> for the recovery of her brother’s -preserver.</p> - -<p>“It was impossible to be thus the object of Manuela’s tender solicitude, -without being impressed with the most ardent love and admiration for one -so pure, so engaging, and so beauteous! Had she indeed been less lovely -and captivating, had she even been absolutely plain, still her assiduous -and disinterested attention could not but have called forth my warmest -gratitude and regard; but I trust you<a name="page_426" id="page_426"></a> will one day see Manuela, and -then be able to judge if I could resist becoming the captive of such -<i>enganchamientos</i><a name="FNanchor_196_196" id="FNanchor_196_196"></a><a href="#Footnote_196_196" class="fnanchor">[196]</a> as she possesses.</p> - -<p>“Vainly I endeavoured to stifle the rising passion at its birth. Alas! -the greater my efforts were to eradicate it, the deeper it took root in -my heart. I hoped, nevertheless, to have sufficient self-control to -conceal my passion from the eyes of all, even of her who had called it -into existence, for gratitude and honour equally forbade my endeavouring -to engage the affections of one whose family, placed in a walk of life -far above mine—that is in point of <i>wealth</i>, added the K. S. F. -somewhat proudly—I had little right to hope, would consider a poor -soldier of fortune a suitable match for the daughter of the rich Don -Fadrique Herrara. Nor did I know, indeed, how Manuela herself would -receive my addresses, for I scarcely ventured to attribute the soft -glances of her love-inspiring eyes to any other feeling than that of -compassion for the sufferings of her brother’s friend.</p> - -<p>“The day of separation came, however, and the veil which had so long -concealed our mutual feelings was gently and unpremeditatedly drawn -aside. Manuela’s father and her brother Gaspar came to Ximena to pass a -few days with Doña Felipa, and finding that, though still a<a name="page_427" id="page_427"></a> prisoner to -my room, I was now declared to be out of all danger, Don Fadrique -announced his intention of taking his daughter home with him—her visit -having already been prolonged far beyond the time originally fixed, in -consequence of my illness, and the fatigue which, unassisted, the -attendance upon me would have imposed on her aunt.</p> - -<p>“When the dreaded hour of departure arrived, my lovely nurse came to the -side of my couch, to bid her last farewell. A tear stood in her bright -eye; the silvery tones of her voice faltered; her hand trembled as she -placed it in mine, and a blush suffused her cheeks as I pressed it to my -lips. But that soft hand was not withdrawn until her own lips had -confessed her love, and had sealed the unsolicited promise, never to -bestow that hand upon another!</p> - -<p>“The difficulty now was to make known our mutual attachment to her -father, who I dreaded would think but ill of me, for the return thus -made for all the kindness of his family. My pride pinched me, also, lest -allusion should be made to my poverty, for, though poor, the blood of -the Condé’s is pure as any in the SerranÃa.</p> - -<p>“I had but little time for consideration, for Don Fadrique was about to -mount his horse, and I thought the best channel of communication would -be my friend Gaspar. He listened attentively to my tale, which was not -told without<a name="page_428" id="page_428"></a> much embarrassment, and then, to my confusion, burst into -a loud laugh.</p> - -<p>“‘Pretty <i>news</i>, truly, <i>amigo</i> Antonio,’ he at length exclaimed. ‘<i>My</i> -eyes, however, have not been so exclusively occupied with one object for -this week past—like your’s and my sister’s—as to render the -communication of this wonderful secret at all necessary. But be of good -cheer; I have seen how the matter stood, and, on the part of my sister, -encouraged it; and I hope to be able to overcome all difficulties, so -leave the affair in my hands:—on our way homewards I will talk the -matter over with my father, and you shall hear the result shortly.’</p> - -<p>“Nor did he disappoint me. In a few days a letter came from Gaspar: the -result of his interference exceeded my expectations: Don Fadrique had -received his communication very calmly, and told him that before -returning any definite answer, he should take time to fathom Manuela’s -feelings.</p> - -<p>“Not long after this, I received a letter, of a less satisfactory kind, -however, from Don Fadrique himself. It simply stated that he could not -at present give his consent to his daughter’s accepting me; that he had -no objections to urge on the score of my rank in life, or the way in -which I had acted in the matter, but that his daughter’s expectations -entitled him to look for a wealthier son-in-law, and that, in fact, it -had<a name="page_429" id="page_429"></a> long been a favorite plan of his, to unite her to the son of an old -and intimate friend, when they should be of a proper age.</p> - -<p>“Nevertheless—his letter concluded—provided I would abstain from -seeing, writing to, or holding <i>in any way</i> communication with his -daughter for the space of two years, he would, at the expiration of that -period, consent to our union, should we both continue to wish it.</p> - -<p>“This chilling letter was accompanied by a hastily written billet from -Manuela. It was as follows:—‘I know my father’s conditions—accept -them, and have full confidence in the constancy of your Manuela.’</p> - -<p>“I accordingly wrote to Don Fadrique, subscribing to the terms he -proposed, and, from that day to this, have neither seen nor communicated -with either Manuela or any member of her family.â€</p> - -<p>“But have you not heard from time to time of the welfare of your -Manuela?†I asked; “are you sure she is yet unmarried?†For it struck me -that the young son of “an old and intimate friend†was a dangerous -person to have paying court to one’s mistress during a two years’ -absence; especially in Spain, where <i>love matches</i> are rather scouted. A -story that one of Manuela’s countrywomen related to me of herself, -recurring to me at the same time.</p> - -<p>This lady had, early in life, formed an attachment<a name="page_430" id="page_430"></a> to a young officer, -whom poverty alone prevented her marrying. His regiment was ordered to -Ceuta, and she remained at Malaga, consoling herself with the hope that -brighter days would dawn upon them. Her friends laughed at the idea of -such interminable constancy, especially as a most advantageous <i>parti</i> -presented itself for her acceptance. The proposer—it is true—was -neither so handsome nor so youthful as the exile, but then he was also -an officer, and “<i>in very good circumstances</i>.†She could not forget her -first love, however—indeed, she <i>never</i> could—and long turned a deaf -ear to the tender whisperings of her new admirer; but, at length, her -relations became urgent, as well as her lover; the mail boat from Ceuta -gradually came to be looked for with less impatience; and, “<i>por fin</i>,†-she observed, “<i>como era Capitan por Capitan (!!)</i>,<a name="FNanchor_197_197" id="FNanchor_197_197"></a><a href="#Footnote_197_197" class="fnanchor">[197]</a> I had no great -objections to urge, and we were married!â€</p> - -<p>She confessed to me, however, that this exchange was not effected -“<i>without paying the difference</i>,†as the treatment she experienced from -her rich husband, caused her ever after to regret having given up her -poor lover.</p> - -<p>But to return to Antonio—“I have had but few opportunities of hearing -from Manuela,†he replied, “for my native village is removed from any -high road, and the close attendance required<a name="page_431" id="page_431"></a> by my aged parents—my -wound having incapacitated me from further military service—has been -such, that I seldom could get as far as Jaen to make enquiries amongst -the <i>contrabandistas</i> and others who visit the neighbourhood, of her -place of residence; but about a month since I met an <i>arriero</i> of Arcos, -who knew Don Fadrique well, and from him I learnt that Manuela is still -unmarried, has lost all her beauty, is wasted to a shadow; and said to -be suffering from some disease that baffles the skill of the most -eminent physicians of the place.</p> - -<p>“This intelligence has made me the more anxious to see her, and claim -her promised hand, for no change in her personal appearance—even if the -account be true—can alter the sentiments I entertain for her; but, at -the same time, it has placed a weight upon my spirits which in vain I -endeavour to throw off.</p> - -<p>“The morning it was my good fortune to fall in with you, Caballeros, I -had set out from my home to proceed to Ximena, whither I understand -Manuela has been removed for change of air. For the term of my -probation, though not yet expired, is fast drawing to a close, and -having some business to transact with the military authorities at -Granada and Malaga respecting my pension (of which not a <i>maravedi</i> has -ever been paid), I have timed my movements so as to reach Ximena by the -day on which I<a name="page_432" id="page_432"></a> may again present myself to Manuela, and receive, I -trust, the reward of my constancy.â€</p> - -<p>Antonio’s narrative was here brought to a conclusion, but ere he left -us, I exacted the promise mentioned in the preceding chapter, that he -would acquaint us with the result of Don Fadrique’s essay in -experimental philosophy. Circumstances, however, occurred to prevent our -meeting him at the place of appointment, and I had almost given up the -hope of hearing more of Antonio and his love story, when, to my -surprise, he one morning presented himself at my breakfast table at San -Roque.</p> - -<p>I saw, at the first glance, that the course of true love had not run -smooth—he was pale and hagged—flurried, yet dispirited. “My good -Antonio,†said I, unwilling to give utterance to a doubt of his fair -one’s constancy, “I fear Don Fadrique has not proved to be a man of his -word.â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Perdon usted</i>,†he replied—“he has been faithful to his word"—worse -and worse, thought I—“And Manuela not less constant in her affection,†-he continued; guessing at once the suspicion that flitted across my -mind—“Alas! I could even wish it were not so, if all otherwise were -well; but fate has ordered differently. A calamity has befallen Manuela; -compared to which, death would be a mercy. She is in a state that is -heart-rending to behold. Her sufferings<a name="page_433" id="page_433"></a> are almost beyond the power of -bearing. Oh, Caballero! it is fearful—it is awful to see her. She has -the best advice that money can procure, but nothing can be done to give -us a hope of her recovery.â€</p> - -<p>“Mad?†I exclaimed, with a shudder—“Oh, cursed love of riches....â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Nada, nada</i>,â€<a name="FNanchor_198_198" id="FNanchor_198_198"></a><a href="#Footnote_198_198" class="fnanchor">[198]</a> interrupted Antonio, “she is as sensible as ever. -Alas! I could even bear to see her insane, for then I might hope that -time would effect a change.â€</p> - -<p>“Is it <i>Etica</i>?†I asked, knowing that the Spaniards consider -consumption both incurable and highly infectious.</p> - -<p>A mournful shake of the head was his reply.</p> - -<p>“What then, my good Antonio, <i>is</i> the nature of her malady?â€</p> - -<p>“<i>Ojala</i><a name="FNanchor_199_199" id="FNanchor_199_199"></a><a href="#Footnote_199_199" class="fnanchor">[199]</a> that it could be called a malady, Don Carlos,†ejaculated -the silver cross of San Fernando; “it might not then be beyond the reach -of the physician’s art. But <i>Dios de mi vida!</i> there is no hope for her, -unless a miracle can be wrought. It is to have a consultation on that -point, I am come to San Roque.â€</p> - -<p>“What,†said I, my patience thoroughly exhausted, “has she embraced -Mohammedanism?â€</p> - -<p>“Not far from it, Don Carlos—she is possessed of a devil!"<a name="page_434" id="page_434"></a></p> - -<p>“Friend Antonio,†said I, “congratulate yourself;—such discoveries are -seldom made <i>before</i> marriage. Let me, however, persuade you, instead of -consulting with priests, to allow an heretical English doctor to meet -this devil face to face; his simple nostrums may perchance be found more -efficacious than the exorcisms of the most pious divines. But explain to -me the signs and symptoms of the presence of this imp of darkness; and -pardon my making light of so serious an affair, for, rest assured, the -evil one is not now permitted to torment the human frame with bodily -anguish; his toils are spread for catching <i>souls</i>; and worldly -pleasures, not personal sufferings, are the means he employs to effect -his purpose.â€</p> - -<p>Antonio then entered into a detailed account of his betrothed’s ailment, -as well as of the mode of treatment that had been adopted; but, -ignorant, superstitious, and bigoted, as I knew the campestral Spanish -<i>faculty</i> to be, I had yet to learn how far they could practise on the -credulity of their infatuated <i>patients</i>.</p> - -<p>Manuela, it appeared, had, one day during the preceding Lent, been so -imprudent as to taste some chicken broth that had been prepared for her -sick father; and it was supposed, that the devil, assuming the -appearance of the egg of some insect, had gained admission to her throat -and settled in her breast, where he had<a name="page_435" id="page_435"></a> ever since been nurtured and -was gradually “<i>comiendo su vida</i>!â€<a name="FNanchor_200_200" id="FNanchor_200_200"></a><a href="#Footnote_200_200" class="fnanchor">[200]</a></p> - -<p>The Doctors assured her friends that the only way of appeasing the -monster’s appetite, was by the constant application of thick slices of -raw beef to the exterior of the part affected—but this remedy was daily -losing its effect.</p> - -<p>My astonishment knew no bounds.—Was it possible such gross ignorance -could exist, or such horrible imposition be practised in the nineteenth -century!</p> - -<p>After much persuasion, Antonio promised to bring his betrothed to San -Roque, to have the advice of an English doctor; my proposal of taking -one to see her, at Ximena, having at once been negatived on the grounds -that it would cause great irritation amongst the people of that town; -and, accordingly, on the day appointed for the meeting, Manuela, borne -on a kind of litter, and accompanied by her aunt, came to San Roque on -the pretence of its being her wish to offer a wax bust at the shrine of -one of the Emigré Saints of Gibraltar “now established in the city of -<i>San Roque de su Campo;</i>†which said saint, having taken a very active -part in expelling the Moors from Spain, it was naturally concluded might -feel an interest in driving the devil out of Manuela’s breast.</p> - -<p>Antonio’s mistress had evidently been a lovely<a name="page_436" id="page_436"></a> creature. Her features -were beautifully outlined, but her white lips and bloodless cheeks, her -sunken eyes and wasted figure, declared the ravages making by some -terrible inward disease. She was suffering excessive pain from the -effects of the journey, but received us with a faint smile.</p> - -<p>“I fear, sir,†she said, with some emotion, addressing herself to my -friend, Dr. ——, “I fear, sir, that I have given you unnecessary trouble -in coming to see me, for I am told that my disorder is beyond the reach -of medical skill; but my friend here,†pointing to her lover, who, with -brimful eyes, stood watching alternately the pain-distorted countenance -of his mistress and that of the Doctor, hoping, if possible, to discover -his thoughts, “my friend here requested me so earnestly to come and meet -you, that, as we shall be so short a time together on this earth, I -could not, as far as concerned myself, refuse him so slight a favour, -and I hope you will pardon the inconvenience to which we have put you.â€</p> - -<p>Antonio and myself now withdrew, leaving Manuela and Doña Felipa with -Dr. ——, who, in a short time rejoined us, and, to Antonio’s -inexpressible delight, informed him that the case of his betrothed was -not by any means hopeless, though she would have to submit to a painful -surgical operation, and then turning round to<a name="page_437" id="page_437"></a> me, he added, “the poor -creature is suffering from a cancerous affection, which, fortunately, is -just in the state that I could most wish it to be. But no time must be -lost.â€</p> - -<p>The nature of the case having been fully explained to Antonio, it was -left to him to persuade Manuela to submit to the necessary operation, -and to inform her, that though it might be performed with safety <i>then</i>, -yet death must inevitably be the consequence of delay.</p> - -<p>The prejudices we were prepared to encounter were numerous, but they -were propounded chiefly by Manuela’s aunt, she herself agreeing without -hesitation to every thing Antonio suggested. At length, however, the old -lady said a positive answer should be given after consulting with a -priest, and I forthwith accompanied Antonio to Don —— ——, and -requested his attendance.</p> - -<p>Antonio was present at the consultation, and gave us an amusing account -of it. The main objection of the Doña Felipa was to the heretical hand -that was to direct the knife; but the worthy <i>Padre</i>—who had good -reason to know the superior skill of the English faculty over those of -his own country, and was himself <i>spelling</i> for a little advice on the -score of an over-strained digestion—took the case up most zealously, -and eventually overcame all their scruples.<a name="page_438" id="page_438"></a></p> - -<p>“Fear not,†said he, winding up his arguments, “Fear not, good dame, to -trust the maiden in his hands. Like as the Lord opened the mouth of -Balaam’s ass to admonish her master, so has he put wisdom into the heads -of these heretical doctors for the good of us, his faithful servants. -Quiet your conscience, Señora Felipa, I myself have been physicked by -these semi-christian <i>Medicos</i>.â€</p> - -<p>The case was not much in point, but it served the purpose. Doña Felipa -was convinced; her niece submitted; the operation was successfully -performed; the colour in a short time returned to the cheeks of the -truly lovely and loveable Manuela; the smile of health once again -lighted up her intelligent countenance. And, ere I left the country, the -small share it had fallen to my lot to take in producing this happy -change, was gratefully acknowledged by the expressive, though downcast -glance that gleamed from Manuela’s bright and joyous eyes, on my -addressing her as the bride of the knight of San Fernando.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p class="c">THE END.</p> - -<p><a name="page_439" id="page_439"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang"><i>Itinerary of the principal Roads of Andalusia, and of the three -great Routes leading from that Province to the Cities of Madrid, -Lisbon, and Valencia.</i></p></div> - -<p>N.B. The measurements on the Post Roads are given in Spanish leagues, -conformably with the Government Regulations by which Postmasters are -authorized to charge for their horses. On these, therefore, the -distances from stage to stage cannot be calculated with much precision; -but a Spanish <i>Post</i> league may generally be reckoned 3½<a name="FNanchor_201_201" id="FNanchor_201_201"></a><a href="#Footnote_201_201" class="fnanchor">[201]</a> English -miles. On the other roads the distances are more accurately specified in -English miles.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 1.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">BAYLEN TO MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(A Post Road, travelled by Diligences.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Baylen to Guarroman</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to La Carolina</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Santa Elena</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Venta de Cardenas</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Visillo</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Sta. Cruz de Mudela</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Val de Peñas</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> N. S. de la Consalacion</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Manzanares</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Casa nueva del Rey</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Villaharta</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Vta. del Puerto Lapice</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Madridejos</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Caña de la higuera</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Tembleque</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Guardia</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Ocaña</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Aranjuez</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Espartinas</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Los Angeles</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Madrid</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total leagues</td><td class="btb"> 47½</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">47½ leagues = 164 English miles.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 2.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">SEVILLE TO LISBON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Post road, travelled by Carriages.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Seville to Santi Ponce</td><td align="right">1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to La Venta de Guillena</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Ronquillo</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Santa Olalla</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Monasterio</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Fuente de Cantos</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Los Santos de Maimona</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Santa Marta</td><td align="right">5</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Albuera</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Badajos</td><td align="right">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Elvas (Portugal)</td><td align="right">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Lisbon</td><td align="right">30</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total leagues</td><td align="right" - class="btb">67</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">67 leagues = 232 miles.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 3.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GRANADA TO VALENCIA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Post road, no Diligence.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Granada to Diezma</td><td align="left">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Guadiz</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Guadiz to Baza</td><td align="left">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Lorca</td><td align="left">18</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Murcia</td><td align="left">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alicante</td><td align="left">13</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> San Felipe</td><td align="left">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Valencia</td><td align="left">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total leagues</td><td align="left" class="btb"> 82</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">82 leagues=284 miles.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 4.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CADIZ to MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Post road travelled by carriages.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Cadiz to San Fernando</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Puerto Sta. Maria</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Xeres de la Frontera</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> de Casa Real del Cuervo</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Ventllo de la Torre de Orcas</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Utrera</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alcalà de Guadaira</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Mairena del Alcor</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Carmona</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> da Venta de la Portugueza</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Luisiana</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Ecija</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Carlota</td><td align="left">4</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Cortijo de Mangonegro</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Cordoba</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alcolea</td><td align="left">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Carpio</td><td align="left">3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Aldea del Rio</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Andujar</td><td align="left">3½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Casa del Rey</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Baylen</td><td align="left">2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">By No. 1, from Baylen to Madrid </td><td align="left">47½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total leagues</td><td align="left" class="btb">109½</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">109½ leagues=378 miles</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 5.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CADIZ to SEVILLE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Post and carriage road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Cadiz to Alcalà de Guadaira,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">by Route No. 4</td><td align="right">22</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Seville</td><td align="right">2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total leagues</td><td align="right" - class="btb">24</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">24 leagues=83 miles.<a name="page_441" id="page_441"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 6.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CADIZ to SEVILLE, by the Marisma.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Direct road, passable for carriages in summer only.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Cadiz, by boat, to El Puerto de Santa Maria</td><td align="right">5</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Xeres</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Lebrija</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Seville</td><td align="right">28</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" - class="btb">57</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 7.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CADIZ to LISBON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Post road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Cadiz to Seville, by No. 5. </td><td align="left">24</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Seville to Lisbon, by No. 2. </td><td align="left">67</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total leagues</td><td align="left" - class="btb">91</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">91 leagues = 315 miles.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 8.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to CADIZ.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Los Barrios</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to La Venta de Ojen</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Venta de Tabilla</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Venta de Vejer</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">(Town of Vejer ½ a mile on left.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Chiclana</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> El Puente Zuazo</td><td align="right">4½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Cadiz</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">75½</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 9.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to CADIZ.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">(Another bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> - -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Algeciras<a name="FNanchor_202_202" id="FNanchor_202_202"></a><a href="#Footnote_202_202" class="fnanchor">[202]</a></td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to La Venta de Ojen</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> by No. 8</td><td align="right">54½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">73½</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c"><a name="page_442" id="page_442"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 10.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to XERES.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to San Roque</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to La Venta la Gamez</td><td align="right">4½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Casa de Castañas</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alcalà de los Gazules</td><td align="right">13</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">(The town left ½ a mile to the right.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Paterna</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Xeres</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" - class="btb">63½</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 11.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to SEVILLE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Ximena</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Ubrique</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> El Broque</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Villa Martin</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Utrera</td><td align="right">21</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Dos Hermanos</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Seville</td><td align="right">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">98</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No 12.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to LISBON.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road to Seville, from thence a carriage road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Seville, by Route No. 11 </td><td align="right">98</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Seville to Lisbon, by Route No. 2 </td><td align="right">232</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">330</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 13.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(A post, but only bridle road to Osuna, from thence a carriage route.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to San Roque</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Gaucin</td><td align="right">25</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Atajate</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Ronda</td><td align="right">10<a name="page_443" id="page_443"></a></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Ronda to Saucejo</td><td align="right">21</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Osuna</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Ecija</td><td align="right">20</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">By Route No. 4, from thence to Baylen, 27 leagues =</td><td align="right">93</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">By Route No. 1, from Baylen to Madrid, 47½ leagues =</td><td align="right">164</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">364</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 14.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">BY BENEMEJI.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(A bridle road only as far as Andujar.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Ronda, by Route No. 13</td><td align="right">55</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Ronda to La Venta de Teba</td><td align="right">21</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">(Town of Teba ½ mile on the right)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Campillos</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Fuente de Piedra</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Benemeji</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Lucena</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Baena</td><td align="right">18</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Porcuna</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Andujar</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Baylen</td><td align="right">17</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> By Route No. 1, to Madrid, 47½ leagues =</td><td align="right">164</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">356</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 15.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to MALAGA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Venta Guadiaro</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Estepona</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Marbella</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Fuengirola</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Benalmedina</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Malaga</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">79</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_444" id="page_444"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 16.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to GRANADA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Malaga, by Route No. 15</td><td align="right">79</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Malaga to Valez</td><td align="right">18</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">thence to La Venta de Alcaucin</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Alhama</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">La Venta de Huelma</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">La Mala</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Granada</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">151</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 17.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GIBRALTAR to VALENCIA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Gibraltar to Granada, by Route No. 16 </td><td align="right">151</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Valencia, by Route No. 3</td><td align="right">284</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">435</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 18.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">MALAGA to SEVILLE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Malaga to Venta de Cartama</td><td align="right">13½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">(leaves town of Cartama 1 mile on left.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Venta de Cartama to Casarabonela</td><td align="right">11½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">(the ascent to this town may be avoided, keeping it to the left)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Casarabonela to El Burgo</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">thence to Ronda</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Zahara</td><td align="right">15</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">(Town half a mile off, on the left.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">thence to Puerto Serrano</td><td align="right">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Coronil</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Utrera</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Dos Hermanos</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Seville</td><td align="right">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">100</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_445" id="page_445"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 19.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">MALAGA to CORDOBA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Practicable for Carriages.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Malaga to Venta de Galvez </td><td align="right">15¾</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">thence to Antequera</td><td align="right">12¼</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Puente Don Gonzalo</td><td align="right">27</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rambla</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cordoba</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">87</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 20.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">MALAGA to MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Post road, travelled by a Diligence.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Malaga to El Colmenar</td><td align="right">17</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Venta de Alfarnate</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Loja</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Venta de Cacin</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Lachar</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Santa Fé</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Granada</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Venta de San Rafael</td><td align="right">27</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Jaen</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Menjiber</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Baylen</td><td align="right">10</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> To Madrid by Route No. 1</td><td align="right">164</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">315</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 21.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">MALAGA to MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(a more direct road, but in part only practicable for carriages.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Malaga to Loja, by Route</td><td align="right">43</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Montefrio</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alcalà la real</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alcaudete</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Martos</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Arjona</td><td align="right">17</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Andujar</td><td align="right">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Baylen</td><td align="right">17</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Madrid by Route No. 1 </td><td align="right">164</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_446" id="page_446"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 22.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">MALAGA to VALENCIA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Bridle road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Malaga to Granada, by Route No. 16 </td><td align="right">72</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Valencia, by Route No. 3</td><td align="right">284</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">356</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 23.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GRANADA to CORDOBA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(A wheel road as far as Alcalà .)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Granada to Pinos de la Puerte</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">thence to Alcalà la Real</td><td align="right">18</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Baena</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Castro el Rio</td><td align="right">6</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cordoba</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">84</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 24.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GRANADA to MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Diligence road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Granada to Baylen, by Route No. 20 </td><td align="right">75½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Madrid by Route No. 1</td><td align="right">164</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">239½</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_447" id="page_447"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 25.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">GRANADA to SEVILLE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Not a wheel road throughout.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Granada to Santa Fé</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> thence to Lachar</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> La Venta de Cacin</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Loja</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Archidona<a name="FNanchor_203_203" id="FNanchor_203_203"></a><a href="#Footnote_203_203" class="fnanchor">[203]</a></td><td align="right">18</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alameda</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Pedrera</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Osuna</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Marchena</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Maraina del Alcor</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Alcalà del Guadiaro</td><td align="right">7</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Seville</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">128</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 26.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">SEVILLE to MADRID.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(Post and Diligence road.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Seville to Alcalà de Guadaira</td><td align="right">8</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Thence to Beylen, by Route No. 4 </td><td align="right">138</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Baylen to Madrid, by Route No. 1 </td><td align="right">164</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">310</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">No. 27.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">SEVILLE to VALENCIA.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right" colspan="2">Miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Seville to Granada, by Route No. 25 </td><td align="right">128</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">From Granada to Valencia, by Route No. 3 </td><td align="right">284</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total miles</td><td align="right" class="btb">412</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><a name="page_448" id="page_448"></a></p> - -<p class="c"> -<i>Just Published</i>,<br /> -<br /> -In 2 vols., 8vo. with Illustrations,<br /> -<br /> -CAPTAIN SCOTT’S TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND<br /> -CANDIA;<br /> -<br /> -With Details of the<br /> -<br /> -MILITARY POWER<br /> -<br /> -And Resources of those Countries, and Observations on the Government,<br /> -Policy, and Commercial System of <span class="smcap">Mohammed Ali</span>.<br /> -</p> - -<p>“One of the most sterling publications of the season. We have recently -had no small supply of information on Egypt, but there is a freshness in -Captain Scott’s narrative that affords a new desire respecting the -events of this most interesting country. The narrative is throughout -light, and amusing; the habits and customs of the people are sketched -with considerable spirit and talent, and there is much novelty in the -gallant Author’s details."—<i>Naval and Military Gazette.</i></p> - -<p>“We do not recollect to have read a better book of travels than this, -since Slade’s able publication on Turkey. The field of African and -Egyptian investigation has been variously trodden, but Captain Scott, -trusting to a shrewd observation and a sound understanding, has struck -out new lights and improved upon the information of others."—<i>United -Service Journal.</i></p> - -<p class="c"> -<span class="smcap">Henry Colburn</span>, Publisher, 13, Great Marlborough Street.<br /> -<br /> -To be had of all Booksellers.<br /> -</p> - -<p class="cb">———</p> - -<p class="c"><i>In a Few Days will be Published</i>,</p> - -<p class="c">A TRAVELLING MAP OF PART OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN,</p> - -<p class="c">INCLUDING THE GREATER PORTION OF THE KINGDOMS OF SEVILLE, CORDOBA, JAEN, -AND GRANADA.</p> - -<p class="c">Compiled from the best Authorities, and Corrected from his own Notes and -Sketches,</p> - -<p class="c">By CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT,</p> - -<p class="c">AUTHOR OF “EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA AND GRANADA, &c. &c. -&c.â€</p> - -<p class="c">To be had of Mr. <span class="smcap">New</span>, Mapseller and Publisher, No. 11, Strand, price -2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> - -<div class="footnotes"><h3><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> See the Posting Itinerary in the Appendix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The post league has already been stated to contain 3 -English miles, and 807 yards.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Town-hall.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Lobster-hunting—such is the name for Locust in Spanish.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Or Genua urbanorum.—Pliny.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Hirt. Bel. Hist. Cap. <span class="smcap">LXI.</span></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> In an abundant house supper is soon cooked.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Red pepper.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Cabbage.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> A kind of sausage, resembling those made at Bologna.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Bacon.—Spanish bacon is certainly the best in the world, -which may be accounted for by the swine being fed principally on acorns, -chesnuts, and Indian corn.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> No vain boast—the fact being established on the testimony -of Rocca.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Florez Medallas de las Colonias, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus—not the Ilipa of -Strabo and Pliny, situated on the river BÅ“tis, and in the county of -Seville.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> The orchard.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Evil doer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Alleys.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> The dead body.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Roguish.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> La Martinière fell into a strange error in describing this -river and the battle field on its bank; making the stream fall into the -bay of Cadiz, and the scene of Alfonso’s victory some fifty miles from -Tarifa. This mistake has been followed by several modern authors.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Not the Mellaria of Pliny, which was a city of the -Turduli, within the county of Cordoba.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> A ruined town, no longer inhabited.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> By Strabo ninety-four miles, following the coast: i.e. 750 -Stadia.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Lib. III. Some editions enumerate two cities called -<i>Besippo</i>, thus, “Bæsaro Tauilla dicte Bæsippo, Barbesula, Lacippo, -Bæsippo, &c.;†but Holland and Harduin give only one, calling the first -“<i>Belippo</i>.â€</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> There is no Epidemic here.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> There are more direct cross-roads to these places, but -they are not always passable in winter.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> <i>Toll-house.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> Strabo.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> This one amongst the various restraints laid on the trade -of Gibraltar has very lately been removed on the remonstrance of our -government.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Shops where ice is sold.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> I understand this Cathedral is now being patched up in an -economical way to render it serviceable.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> Road of Hercules. The causeway connecting Cadiz with the -Isla de Leon is so called, and supposed to be a work of the Demi-god.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> 400 or 500 butts of Wine are shipped yearly from this -place.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> The old mouth of the Guadalete is obstructed by a yet more -impracticable bar.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> 10,000 butts of Wine are collected annually from the -vineyards of Puerto Santa Maria. The exports amount to 12,000.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> Camomile.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Mother.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> So called from the town of <i>Montilla</i>, whence the grape, -that originally produced this description of dry, light-coloured wine, -was brought to Xeres.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> Carthusian convent.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> Strabo and Pliny.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> A Fen, subject to the inundations of the sea. Such, -however, is not the case here.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> Water-courses, which are dry in summer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> Written <i>Vrgia</i> by Pliny—<i>Vcia</i> by Ptolemy.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Itin. Anton.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> España Sagrada.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> This supposes the earth’s circumference to have been -reckoned 240,000 stadia, giving 83â…“ miles to a degree of the -meridian. By the calculation of Eratosthenes, the circumference of the -earth was 252,000 stadia, which gives exactly 700 stadia, or 87½ miles -to a degree.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> Mariana (lib. 3. cap. 22) has quite mistaken the situation -of this place, which he describes as two leagues from Xeres, <i>on the -banks of the Guadalete</i>. It is two leagues from Xeres, certainly, but -nearly three from the Guadalete, and but one and a half from the -Guadalquivir.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> The area of the Mezquita at Cordoba, taken altogether, is -larger, but not the enclosed portion of Gothic architecture, which is, -properly speaking, the Episcopal church.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> A long time since.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> In England, however, it must be the taste of the nation -that is suffering from disease, rather than its drama, if, with such -writers as Sheridan Knowles, Talfourd, and Bulwer, the theatre does not -once more become a popular place of resort.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Farce; but, literally, goût, highly seasoned dish.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> Low and disorderly people.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> Florez Medallas descubiertas, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> Old Seville.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> De Bell. Civ.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> Hollond—intending, of course, the Itipa of the Itinerary, -since the city of that name, mentioned by Pliny, was on the right bank -of the GuadalquivÃr; and from medals discovered of it, whereon a fish is -borne, may be concluded to have stood on the very margin of the river.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> The gallant and talented author of the “History of the -Peninsular War†has fallen into some slight topographical errors -(caused, probably, by the extraordinary inaccuracy of the Spanish maps) -in describing the movements of the contending armies. He describes, for -instance, the French as obliging the Duke of Albuquerque to abandon his -position at Carmona (where he had hoped to cover both Seville and -Cadiz), by moving from Ecija upon Utrera (i.e. in rear of the Spanish -army), along “a road by Moron, shorter†than that leading to the same -place through Carmona. But so far from this road by Moron being -“<i>shorter</i>,†it is yet more circuitous than the chaussée; and, moreover, -by skirting the foot of the Ronda mountains, it is both bad and hilly. -</p><p> -He furthermore represents the Duke of Albuquerque as falling back from -Utrera upon Xeres, with all possible speed, and, nevertheless, taking -Lebrija in his way, which town is, at least, eight miles out of the -direct road. A French account (<i>La Pène, Campagne de 1810</i>) says, the -Spanish army fell back from Carmona “par le chemin <i>le plus direct, -Utrera et Arcos sur Xeres</i>,"—an error equally glaring, for the chaussée -is the shortest road from Utrera to Xeres;—in fact, it is as direct as -a road can well be, and leaves Arcos some twelve miles on the left! We -may suppose, in attempting to reconcile these discrepant accounts, that -the main body of the duke’s army retreated from Utrera to Xeres by the -chaussée; the cavalry by Arcos, to cover its right flank during the -march; and that the road by Lebrija was taken by the troops withdrawn -from Seville, as being the most direct route from that city to Xeres.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> Don Maldonado Saavedra viewed it in this light, imagining -that, in the Itinerary of Antoninus from Cadiz to Cordoba, two distinct -roads were referred to; one proceeding direct, by way of Seville, whence -it was taken up by another road, afterwards described, to Cordoba; the -other (starting again from Cadiz) traversing the SerranÃa de Ronda to -Antequera, and proceeding thence to Cordoba by UlÃa. Florez, however, -disputes this hypothesis, conceiving that but one route is intended, and -that from Seville onwards it was given, not as a direct road, but merely -as one by which troops might be marched if occasion required. But why, -if such were the case, a road should have been made that increased the -distance from Seville to Antequera from 85 to 121 miles, he does not -explain; and I confess, therefore, it seems to me, that Don Maldonado -Saavedra’s supposition is the more probable. The distances, however, -between the modern places which he has named as corresponding with those -mentioned in the Itinerary do not at all agree; and he also, in laying -down the road from Cadiz to Antequera, has made it unnecessarily -circuitous. The following towns will be found to answer much better with -those mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, and the line connecting them is -one of the most practicable through the SerranÃa. -</p><p> -<i>Iter a Gadis Corduba, milia plus minus 295 sic.</i> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right">Roman miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ad pontem (Puente Zuazo) m. p. m.</td><td align="right">12</td></tr> -<tr><td>Portu Gaditano (Puerto Santa Maria)</td><td align="right">14</td></tr> -<tr><td>Hasta (near La Mesa de Asta)</td><td align="right">16</td></tr> -<tr><td>Ugia (Las Cabezas de San Juan)</td><td align="right">27</td></tr> -<tr><td>Orippo (Dos Hermanos)</td><td align="right">24</td></tr> -<tr><td>Hispali (Seville)</td><td align="right">9</td></tr> -<tr><td>(returning now to the Puente Zuazo, we have to)</td></tr> -<tr><td>Basilippo (a rocky mound and ruins between Paterna<br /> -and Alcalà de los Gazules)</td><td align="right">21</td></tr> -</table> -</div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> Olbera, according to Saavedra.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> This disagreement with the heading is in the original.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> Cura de los Palacios.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> The diminutive of Venta.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> Are they English?</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> Literally—on which foot the business was lame.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> -</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">He who shelters himself under a good tree,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">gets a good shade.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Name and surname.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> Beneficed clergyman.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> Glance—from ojo, eye.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> Good for study.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> The lower orders of Spaniards, generally speaking, imagine -that Protestantism implies a denial of the Godhead in the person of Our -Saviour, and consider that but for our eating pork, like <i>Christianos -Viejos</i>, we should be little better than Jews. For the whole seed of -Israel, they entertain a most preposterous dislike; so deep rooted is -it, indeed, that I once knew an instance of a young Spanish woman—far -removed from a <i>low</i> station in life, however—who was perfectly -horrified on being told by an English lady that Our Saviour was a Jew. -Her exclamation of “Jesus!†was in a key which seemed to express wonder -that such a blasphemous assertion had not met with the summary -punishment of Annanias and Sapphira. I have no doubt but that the bad -success which has attended the <i>Cristina</i> arms is attributed by the -lower orders less to the incapacity of Espartero and Co. than to the -Jewish blood flowing in the veins of Señor Mendizabel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> Mapping the town.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> A Spanish side-saddle; or, more properly, an <i>arm-chair</i>, -placed sideways on a horse’s back, with a board to rest the feet upon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> Female attendant.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> Managing person.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> Ages ago.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> Many Roman Emperors.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> As it is said, by an Englishman named Marlborough, and -other very distinguished persons.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> Palacios, posadas, y todo—i.e., palaces, inns, and <i>every -thing</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> Throughout Spain.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> For every thing it has a cure—look you, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> Youngster.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> The poor old Tio could not have acted under “proper -directions,†as I am informed that he died the year following my last -visit to the <i>Hedionda</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> I drink no other—never any other—I cook and every thing -with it.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> Even to its bad smell.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> Little walk.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> A game that bears some resemblance to Boston.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> The Invalid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> The water—nothing but the water—there is nothing in the -world more salutary.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> They say that he was one of those lords, of whom there are -so many in England.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> Heaps of gold.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> To me it appears.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> The Spaniards considered tea a medicine.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> A gentleman in whom perfect confidence might be placed.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> Yes, sir; that is true.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> Pastures.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> There are many robbers hereabouts—last year (accursed be -these rascally Spaniards!) a good fowling-piece was stolen from me in -this confounded narrow pass, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> These beggarly Spaniards, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> Young lady of the house.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> Very well <i>combed</i>, literally—her hair well dressed.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> Unequalled.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> A young girl I am bringing up for (<i>i. e.</i> to be) a -countess.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> Now, gentlemen, it is necessary to load—these cowardly -Spaniards always fall suddenly upon one; and, if we are not prepared, we -shall be all netted, like so many little birds.—We are all well armed -with double-barrelled guns, and, with prudence, we shall have nothing to -fear—but ...! prudence is necessary.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> In these parts, no evil-disposed persons whatever are to -be met with; that sort of <i>canaille</i> know too well who Louis de Castro -is.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> A gazpacho, eaten hot.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> Literally, <i>beds</i>—spots frequented by the deer.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> Wolf.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> The position taken up by the sportsmen is called the -<i>cama</i>, as well as the haunt of the game.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> A day of foxes—an expression amongst Spanish sportsmen, -signifying an unlucky day.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> Literally, light—here used as “<i>fire!</i>â€</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> A wild boar! zounds!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> Yes, it is a sow.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> To escape from the thunder, and encounter the lightning.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> The war-cry of the Spaniards.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> I precede you with this motive, and in the shortest -possible time <i>all will be ready</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> Very dear friend of mine; aprec’ion, abbreviation of -apreciacion; esteem.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> Go you with God ... and without a horse.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> An ounce; i. e. a doubloon.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> Get down directly.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> Perhaps a flight of woodcocks will arrive to-night. Is it -not true, good father?</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> “It is infested with banditti at each step. Is it not -true, Don Diego, that that rocky path beyond Alcalà is called the road -to the infernal regions?†“Yes, yes—as true as holy writ.â€</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> Rock of Sancho.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> The little stream that empties itself into the sea, near -Tarifa, is called <i>El</i> Salado, <i>par excellence</i>, in consequence of the -great victory gained on its banks by Alfonso XI.; but, properly -speaking, it is El Salado <i>de Tarifa</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> Hirtius, Bel. Hisp. cap 7.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> Ibid. cap. 8.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> Dion—Lib. 48.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_126_126" id="Footnote_126_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126_126"><span class="label">[126]</span></a> Dion and Hirtius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_127_127" id="Footnote_127_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127_127"><span class="label">[127]</span></a> Cap. 27.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_128_128" id="Footnote_128_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128_128"><span class="label">[128]</span></a> <i>Singilia Hegua</i>, corrected by Hardouin to Singili -Ategua.—The ruins of Singili are on the banks of the Genil (Singilis) -to the north of Antequera.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_129_129" id="Footnote_129_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129_129"><span class="label">[129]</span></a> It is a mere boast, however, for, according to Rocca, the -French entered the town and levied a contribution.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_130_130" id="Footnote_130_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130_130"><span class="label">[130]</span></a> Scanty <i>vecinos</i>—a <i>vecino</i>, used as a <i>statistical</i> -term, implies a hearth or family, though literally a neighbour. The -Spanish computation of population is always made by <i>vecinos</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_131_131" id="Footnote_131_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131_131"><span class="label">[131]</span></a> He does not understand.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_132_132" id="Footnote_132_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132_132"><span class="label">[132]</span></a> Have no anxiety.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_133_133" id="Footnote_133_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133_133"><span class="label">[133]</span></a> Mapping the country.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_134_134" id="Footnote_134_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134_134"><span class="label">[134]</span></a> Town.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_135_135" id="Footnote_135_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135_135"><span class="label">[135]</span></a> Fair and softly.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_136_136" id="Footnote_136_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136_136"><span class="label">[136]</span></a> Nonsense.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_137_137" id="Footnote_137_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137_137"><span class="label">[137]</span></a> Should this good woman be yet living, I suspect her -opinion on this point will have undergone a material change—like that -of most Spaniards.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_138_138" id="Footnote_138_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138_138"><span class="label">[138]</span></a> With polite mien and deportment.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_139_139" id="Footnote_139_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139_139"><span class="label">[139]</span></a> What a rare people are these English!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_140_140" id="Footnote_140_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140_140"><span class="label">[140]</span></a> Mentioned by Hirtius—Bell. Hisp. Cap. <span class="smcap">XXVII</span>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_141_141" id="Footnote_141_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141_141"><span class="label">[141]</span></a> The salutary waters of the divine Genil.—<span class="smcap">Don Quijote.</span></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_142_142" id="Footnote_142_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142_142"><span class="label">[142]</span></a> Dion and Hirtius.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_143_143" id="Footnote_143_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143_143"><span class="label">[143]</span></a> Zurita and Hardouin maintain, that it is not in the old -editions of Pliny.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_144_144" id="Footnote_144_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144_144"><span class="label">[144]</span></a> Foreign gentlemen.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_145_145" id="Footnote_145_145"></a><a href="#FNanchor_145_145"><span class="label">[145]</span></a> The wheel of fortune revolves more rapidly than that of a -mill, and those who were elevated yesterday, to-day are on the ground.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_146_146" id="Footnote_146_146"></a><a href="#FNanchor_146_146"><span class="label">[146]</span></a> These <i>Salvo conductos</i> were by no means uncommon in -those days. A friend of mine offered to procure me one to ensure me the -protection of the celebrated <i>José Maria</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_147_147" id="Footnote_147_147"></a><a href="#FNanchor_147_147"><span class="label">[147]</span></a> Forward, forward, heartless deceiver!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_148_148" id="Footnote_148_148"></a><a href="#FNanchor_148_148"><span class="label">[148]</span></a> There is no wedding without its morrow’s festival.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_149_149" id="Footnote_149_149"></a><a href="#FNanchor_149_149"><span class="label">[149]</span></a> -</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Between the hand and the mouth<br /></span> -<span class="i2">the soup falls<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -</div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_150_150" id="Footnote_150_150"></a><a href="#FNanchor_150_150"><span class="label">[150]</span></a> Holy face.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_151_151" id="Footnote_151_151"></a><a href="#FNanchor_151_151"><span class="label">[151]</span></a> Uninhabited place.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_152_152" id="Footnote_152_152"></a><a href="#FNanchor_152_152"><span class="label">[152]</span></a> Distant from Cordoba 300 stadia.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_153_153" id="Footnote_153_153"></a><a href="#FNanchor_153_153"><span class="label">[153]</span></a> Distant fourteen miles from the GuadalquivÃr.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_154_154" id="Footnote_154_154"></a><a href="#FNanchor_154_154"><span class="label">[154]</span></a> <i>Illiturgi quod Forum Julium.</i>—<span class="smcap">Pliny.</span></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_155_155" id="Footnote_155_155"></a><a href="#FNanchor_155_155"><span class="label">[155]</span></a> Titus Livius, lib. 28.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_156_156" id="Footnote_156_156"></a><a href="#FNanchor_156_156"><span class="label">[156]</span></a> Pliny.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_157_157" id="Footnote_157_157"></a><a href="#FNanchor_157_157"><span class="label">[157]</span></a> To the parlour! to the parlour!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_158_158" id="Footnote_158_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_158_158"><span class="label">[158]</span></a> Be not afraid.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_159_159" id="Footnote_159_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_159_159"><span class="label">[159]</span></a> Stew.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_160_160" id="Footnote_160_160"></a><a href="#FNanchor_160_160"><span class="label">[160]</span></a> Literally, that he could no more.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_161_161" id="Footnote_161_161"></a><a href="#FNanchor_161_161"><span class="label">[161]</span></a> I, the king.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_162_162" id="Footnote_162_162"></a><a href="#FNanchor_162_162"><span class="label">[162]</span></a> With us, I am sorry to say, “the honour of knighthood†-has, in too many instances, become rather an acknowledgment of so many -years’ <i>good salary received</i>, than of any meritorious service -performed.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_163_163" id="Footnote_163_163"></a><a href="#FNanchor_163_163"><span class="label">[163]</span></a> A very small copper coin.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_164_164" id="Footnote_164_164"></a><a href="#FNanchor_164_164"><span class="label">[164]</span></a> And this is a teapot!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_165_165" id="Footnote_165_165"></a><a href="#FNanchor_165_165"><span class="label">[165]</span></a> A pillow!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_166_166" id="Footnote_166_166"></a><a href="#FNanchor_166_166"><span class="label">[166]</span></a> What voluptuous people!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_167_167" id="Footnote_167_167"></a><a href="#FNanchor_167_167"><span class="label">[167]</span></a> A stone—a flint.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_168_168" id="Footnote_168_168"></a><a href="#FNanchor_168_168"><span class="label">[168]</span></a> How! without horses, without mules, without any thing, -save steam!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_169_169" id="Footnote_169_169"></a><a href="#FNanchor_169_169"><span class="label">[169]</span></a> The estate, so called, was bestowed on the Duke of -Wellington, as a slight acknowledgment of the distinguished services -rendered by him to the Spanish nation.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_170_170" id="Footnote_170_170"></a><a href="#FNanchor_170_170"><span class="label">[170]</span></a> Santa Fé, built by Ferdinand and Isabella during the -siege of Granada, and dignified by them with the title of <i>city</i>, is a -wretched little walled town, of some twelve or fifteen hundred -inhabitants; and, excepting two full-length portraits of the Catholic -kings contained in the church, possesses nothing worthy of notice.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_171_171" id="Footnote_171_171"></a><a href="#FNanchor_171_171"><span class="label">[171]</span></a> Eating; to use the expression of one of the peasants we -conversed with.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_172_172" id="Footnote_172_172"></a><a href="#FNanchor_172_172"><span class="label">[172]</span></a> <i>Itinerary of Antoninus.</i> -</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" class="tbl"> -<tr><td align="left">Malaca to Suel</td><td align="left">21</td><td align="center">m. p. m.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">To Cilniana</td><td align="left">24</td><td align="center">â€</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">To Barbariana</td><td align="left">34</td><td align="center">â€</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">To Calpe Carteia</td><td align="left">10</td><td align="center">â€</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Total</td><td align="left" - class="bt">89</td><td align="center">miles.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p> -Pomponius Mela has made sad confusion of the itinerary from Malaca to -Gades (of which the above is a part), by introducing Barbesula and -Calpe, and mentioning Carteia twice; but, on attentive observation, it -is evident he intended to imply that the road bifurked at Cilniana, one -branch going straight to Carteia by Barbariana, the other making a -detour by Barbesula and Calpe, and rejoining the former at Carteia; the -distance from Malaga to Cadiz, by the first route, being 155 miles, by -the latter 186.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_173_173" id="Footnote_173_173"></a><a href="#FNanchor_173_173"><span class="label">[173]</span></a> Pliny.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_174_174" id="Footnote_174_174"></a><a href="#FNanchor_174_174"><span class="label">[174]</span></a> Published in 1765.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_175_175" id="Footnote_175_175"></a><a href="#FNanchor_175_175"><span class="label">[175]</span></a> “Two leagues†are his words—meaning Spanish measure, or -eight miles English; since he estimates the league at four miles.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_176_176" id="Footnote_176_176"></a><a href="#FNanchor_176_176"><span class="label">[176]</span></a> Otherwise called Horgarganta.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_177_177" id="Footnote_177_177"></a><a href="#FNanchor_177_177"><span class="label">[177]</span></a> Florez fixes Salduba where I suppose Cilniana to have -stood, i. e. on the eastern bank of the Rio Verde, about two miles to -the westward of Marbella. Cilniana he places at the Torre de Bovedas, a -site to which the objections above stated apply equally as to the -position assigned to that place by Mr. Carter.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_178_178" id="Footnote_178_178"></a><a href="#FNanchor_178_178"><span class="label">[178]</span></a> Pliny places Salduba between Barbesula and Suel.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_179_179" id="Footnote_179_179"></a><a href="#FNanchor_179_179"><span class="label">[179]</span></a> Marbella is a fine place, but do not enter it.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_180_180" id="Footnote_180_180"></a><a href="#FNanchor_180_180"><span class="label">[180]</span></a> This may appear at variance with what I have said in -computing the distance from Malaca to Calpe CarteÃa in Roman -miles—viz., only eighty of eighty-three and one third to a degree of -the meridian: but, besides that the distance from Malaga to Gibraltar is -at least three English miles greater than to CarteÃa, the measurement I -here give is along a winding pathway, that makes the distance -considerably more than it would have been by a properly made road, even -though it had followed all the irregularities of the coast.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_181_181" id="Footnote_181_181"></a><a href="#FNanchor_181_181"><span class="label">[181]</span></a> Bell. Hisp. cap. xxix.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_182_182" id="Footnote_182_182"></a><a href="#FNanchor_182_182"><span class="label">[182]</span></a> Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_183_183" id="Footnote_183_183"></a><a href="#FNanchor_183_183"><span class="label">[183]</span></a> Traces of the first-named of these Roman roads may yet be -seen about Tolox. The latter was one of the great military roads -mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus, and, doubtless, existed long -before that work was compiled.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_184_184" id="Footnote_184_184"></a><a href="#FNanchor_184_184"><span class="label">[184]</span></a> Hirtius, de Bell. Hisp. xxix. et seq.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_185_185" id="Footnote_185_185"></a><a href="#FNanchor_185_185"><span class="label">[185]</span></a> Great allowance must be made for exaggeration in -enumerating the strength of contending armies in those early times, -since even in these days of despatches, bulletins, and Moniteurs, it is -so extremely difficult to get at the truth. The battle of Waterloo -offers a remarkable instance of this, for no two published accounts -agree as to the respective numbers of the belligerents, and one which I -have read—a French one, of course—swells the force under the Duke of -Wellington, on the 18th June, to 170,000 men!!!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_186_186" id="Footnote_186_186"></a><a href="#FNanchor_186_186"><span class="label">[186]</span></a> The inscription is given at length in Florez España -Sagrada.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_187_187" id="Footnote_187_187"></a><a href="#FNanchor_187_187"><span class="label">[187]</span></a> The source of the Sigila, now called El Rio Grande, is -twenty-five English miles from Cartama, following the course of the -river.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_188_188" id="Footnote_188_188"></a><a href="#FNanchor_188_188"><span class="label">[188]</span></a> Certainly <i>not</i> Mr. Carter’s, than which I never saw a -more complete caricature. Not one of the rivers is marked correctly upon -it, and the towns are scattered about where chance directed.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_189_189" id="Footnote_189_189"></a><a href="#FNanchor_189_189"><span class="label">[189]</span></a> Hirtius Bell. Hisp. xxviii.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_190_190" id="Footnote_190_190"></a><a href="#FNanchor_190_190"><span class="label">[190]</span></a> Ibid. xli.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_191_191" id="Footnote_191_191"></a><a href="#FNanchor_191_191"><span class="label">[191]</span></a> An account of which place has already been given in -Chapter I. of this volume.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_192_192" id="Footnote_192_192"></a><a href="#FNanchor_192_192"><span class="label">[192]</span></a> “Don Ferdinand the Seventh, by the grace of God, king of -Castile, Leon, Aragon, the Two Sicilies, Jerusalem, Navarre, Granada, -Toledo, Valencia, Gallicia, Majorca, Seville, Sardinia, Cordoba, -Corsica, Murcia, Jaen, the Algarves, Algeciras, Gibraltar, the Canary -Islands, the East and West Indies, islands and terra firma of the Great -Ocean; archduke of Austria; duke of Burgundy, Brabant, and Milan; Count -of Hapsburg, Flanders, the Tyrol, and Barcelona; Lord of Biscay and -Molina, &c."—The seeming wish to avoid prolixity, implied by this “&c.†-is admirable.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_193_193" id="Footnote_193_193"></a><a href="#FNanchor_193_193"><span class="label">[193]</span></a> <i>Clean</i> blood.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_194_194" id="Footnote_194_194"></a><a href="#FNanchor_194_194"><span class="label">[194]</span></a> At any price.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_195_195" id="Footnote_195_195"></a><a href="#FNanchor_195_195"><span class="label">[195]</span></a> These love affairs are much to my taste.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_196_196" id="Footnote_196_196"></a><a href="#FNanchor_196_196"><span class="label">[196]</span></a> Attractions—literally, <i>hooking</i> qualities.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_197_197" id="Footnote_197_197"></a><a href="#FNanchor_197_197"><span class="label">[197]</span></a> In fine—as it was captain for captain.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_198_198" id="Footnote_198_198"></a><a href="#FNanchor_198_198"><span class="label">[198]</span></a> Not a bit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_199_199" id="Footnote_199_199"></a><a href="#FNanchor_199_199"><span class="label">[199]</span></a> Would to God!</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_200_200" id="Footnote_200_200"></a><a href="#FNanchor_200_200"><span class="label">[200]</span></a> Eating her life.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_201_201" id="Footnote_201_201"></a><a href="#FNanchor_201_201"><span class="label">[201]</span></a> A Post league is equal to 3 British statute miles and 807 -yards.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_202_202" id="Footnote_202_202"></a><a href="#FNanchor_202_202"><span class="label">[202]</span></a> To Algeciras, by boat, saves 4 miles.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_203_203" id="Footnote_203_203"></a><a href="#FNanchor_203_203"><span class="label">[203]</span></a> This is the only stage that is not perfectly practicable -for a carriage.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><a name="Typographical" id="Typographical"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Adventnre with Itinerant=> Adventure with Itinerant {pg v}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">gradully hauled=> gradually hauled {pg 54}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">rocky islot rises=> rocky islet rises {pg 62}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">in the joint-stock vilstge=> in the joint-stock village {pg 180}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">he exclaimed=> he ex-exclaimed {pg 212}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">It was necessry=> It was necessary {pg 241}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">the chace, and trust=> the chase, and trust {pg 256}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">addressiug me=> addressing me {pg 300}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">extarordinary=> extraordinary {pg 331}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">woollen mattrasses=> woollen mattresses {pg 337}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">too many intances=> too many instances {pg 346}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">decsends=> descends {pg 384}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">considered irresisitble=> considered irresistible {pg 387}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">acccordingly=> accordingly {pg 421}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">to unite her to to the son=> to unite her to the son {pg 429}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">long turned a a deaf ear=> long turned a deaf ear {pg 430}</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda -and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern -Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43705-h.htm or 43705-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/0/43705/ - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2 - -Author: Charles Rochfort Scott - -Release Date: September 12, 2013 [EBook #43705] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Etext transcriber's note: The footnotes have been located after the -etext. Corrections of some obvious typographical errors have been made -(a list follows the etext); the spellings of several words currently -spelled in a different manner have been left un-touched. (i.e. -chesnut/chestnut; every thing/everything; Our's/Ours; Codoba/Cordoba; -sanitory/sanitary; your's/yours; janty/jaunty; visiters/visitors; -negociation/negotiation.) The accentuation of words in Spanish has not -been corrected or normalized. - -[Illustration: CASTLE OF XIMENA, AND DISTANT VIEW OF GIBRALTAR - -_On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott_ - -_R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre_ - -_Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St._] - - - - - EXCURSIONS - - IN THE - - MOUNTAINS - - OF - - RONDA AND GRANADA, - - WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES - OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN. - - BY - - CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - - AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA." - - "_Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos - hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras._" - DON QUIJOTE. - - IN TWO VOLUMES. - - VOL. II. - - LONDON: - HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, - GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. - - 1838. - - LONDON: - - F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. - - - - -CONTENTS - -OF - -THE SECOND VOLUME. - - PAGE - -CHAPTER I. - -Departure from Cordoba--Post Road to -Cadiz--Carlota--Ecija--Carmona--Road from Ecija to -Gibraltar--Locusts--Osuna--Saucejo--An Olla in -perfection--Ronda--Splendid Scenery on the road to Grazalema--Distant -View of Zahara--Grazalema--Extensive Prospect from the Pass of -Bozal--Secluded Orchards of Benamajama--Pajarete--El -Broque--Ubrique--Difficult Road across the Mountains to Ximena--Our -Guide in a rage--Fine Scenery--Ximena--Strength of its Castle--Road to -Gibraltar 1 - -CHAPTER II. - -Departure for Cadiz--Road round the Bay of Gibraltar--Algeciras--Sandy -Bay--Gualmesi--Tarifa--Its Foundation--Error of Mariana in supposing it -to be Carteia--Battle of El Salado--Mistake of La Martiniere concerning -it--Itinerary of Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified--Continuation -of Journey--Ventas of Tavilla and Retin--Vejer--Conil--Spanish Method of -Extracting Good from Evil--Tunny Fishery--Barrosa--Field of -Battle--Chiclana--Road to Cadiz--Puente Zuazo--San Fernando--Temple of -Hercules--Castle of Santi Petri--Its Importance to Cadiz 33 - -CHAPTER III. - -Cadiz--Its Foundation--Various Names--Past Prosperity--Made a Free Port -in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar--Unjust Restrictions on -the Commerce of the British Fortress--Description of Cadiz--Its vaunted -Agremens--Society--Monotonous Life--Cathedral--Admirably built Sea -Wall--Naval Arsenal of La Carraca--Road to Xeres--Puerto Real--Puerto de -Santa Maria--Xeres--Its Filth--Wine Stores--Method of Preparing -Wine--Doubts of the Ancient and Derivation of the Present Name of -Xeres--Carthusian Convent--Guadalete--Battle of Xeres 64 - -CHAPTER IV. - -Choice of Roads to Seville--By Lebrija--Mirage--The Marisma--Post -Road--Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios--Difficulty of -Reconciling any of these Routes with that of the Roman -Itinerary--Seville--General Description of the City--The -Alameda--Display of Carriages--Elevation of the Host--Public -Buildings--The Cathedral--Lonja--American Archives--Alcazar--Casa -Pilata--Royal Snuff Manufactory--Cannon Foundry--Capuchin -Convent--Murillo--Theatre of Seville--Observations on the State of the -National Drama--Moratin--The Bolero--Spanish Dancing--The Spaniards not -a Musical People 90 - -CHAPTER V. - -Society of Seville--Spanish Women--Faults of Education--Evils of Early -Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance--Environs of Seville--Triana--San -Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce--Ruins of Italica--Italica not so ancient -a City as Hispalis--Young Pigs and the Muses--Departure from -Seville--The Marques De Las Amarillas--Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice -of the Late King of Spain--Alcala De Guadiara--Utrera--Observations on -the Strategical Importance of this Town--Moron--Military operations of -Riego--Apathy of the Serranos during the Civil War--Olbera--Remarks on -the Itinerary of Antoninus 123 - -CHAPTER VI. - -Ronda to Gaucin--Road to Casares--Difficulty in Procuring -Lodgings--Finally Overcome--The Cura's House--View of the Town from the -Ruins of the Castle--Its Great Strength--Ancient Name--Ideas of the -Spaniards regarding Protestants--Scramble to the Summit of the Sierra -Cristellina--Splendid View--Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of -Sketching--The Cura and his Barometer--Departure for the Baths of -Manilba--Romantic Scenery--Accommodation for Visiters--The Master of the -Ceremonies--Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar--River Guadiaro and -Venta 154 - -CHAPTER VII. - -The Baths of Manilba--A Specimen of Fabulous History--Properties of the -Hedionda--Society of the Bathing Village--Remarkable Mountain--An -English Botanist--Town of Manilba--An Intrusive Visiter--Ride to -Estepona--Return by way of Casares 179 - -CHAPTER VIII. - -A Shooting Party to the Mountains--Our Italian Piqueur, Damien -Berrio--Some Account of his Previous Life--Los Barrios--The Beautiful -Maid, and the Maiden's Levelling Sire--Road to Sanona--Reparation -against Bandits--Arrival at the Caseria--Description of its Owner and -Accommodations--Fine Scenery--A Batida 202 - -CHAPTER IX. - -Luis de Castro 226 - -CHAPTER X. - -Don Luis's Narrative is interrupted by a Boar--The Batida -resumed--Departure from Sanona--Road to Casa Vieja--The Priest's -House--Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants--Departure from Casa -Vieja--Alcala De Los Gazules--Road to Ximena--Return to -Gibraltar 249 - -CHAPTER XI. - -Departure for Madrid--Cordon drawn round the Cholera--Ronda--Road to -Cordoba--Teba--Erroneous Position of the Place on the Spanish Maps--Its -Locality agrees with that of Ategua, as described by Hirtius, and the -Course of the River Guadaljorce with that of the Salsus--Road to -Campillos--The English-loving Innkeeper and his Wife--An Alcalde's -Dinner spoilt--Fuente De Piedra--Astapa--Puente Don -Gonzalo--Rambla--Cordoba--Meeting with an old Acquaintance 267 - -CHAPTER XII. - -History of Blas El Guerrillero--_continued_ 294 - -CHAPTER XIII. - -Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid--Death of King -Ferdinand--Change in our Plans--Road to -Andujar--Alcolea--Montoro--Porcuna--Andujar--Arjono--Torre -Ximeno--Difficulty of Gaining Admission--Success of a -Stratagem--Consternation of the Authorities--Spanish Adherence to -Forms--Contrasts--Jaen--Description of the Castle, City, and -Cathedral--La Santa Faz--Road to Granada--Our Knightly -Attendant--Parador de San Rafael--Hospitable Farmer--Astonishment of the -Natives--Granada--El Soto de Roma--Loja--Venta de -Dornejo--Colmenar--Fine Scenery--Road from Malaga to Antequera, and -Description of that City 325 - -CHAPTER XIV. - -Malaga--Excursion of Marbella and -Monda--Churriana--Benalmania--Fuengirola--Discrepancy of Opinion -respecting the Site of Suel--Scale to be adopted, in order to make the -measurements given in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with the Actual -Distance from Malaga to Carteia--Errors of Carter--Castle of -Fuengirola--Road to Marbella--Tower and Casa Fuertes--Disputed Site of -Salduba--Description of Marbella--Abandoned Mines--Distance to -Gibraltar 363 - -CHAPTER XV. - -A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain--Road to -Monda--Secluded Valley of Ojen--Monda--Discrepancy of Opinion respecting -the Site of the Roman City of Munda--Ideas of Mr. Carter on the -Subject--Reasons adduced for concluding that Modern Monda occupies the -Site of the Ancient City--Assumed Positions of the Contending Armies of -Cneius Pompey and Caesar, in the Vicinity of the Town--Road to -Malaga--Towns of Coin and Alhaurin--Bridge over the Guadaljorce--Return -to Gibraltar--Notable Instance of the Absurdity of Quarantine -Regulations 382 - -CHAPTER XVI. - -The Knight of San Fernando 410 - - -APPENDIX 439 - - - - -EXCURSIONS - -IN THE - -MOUNTAINS - -OF - -RONDA AND GRANADA. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - DEPARTURE FROM CORDOBA--POST-ROAD TO - CADIZ--CARLOTA--ECIJA--CARMONA--ROAD FROM ECIJA TO - GIBRALTAR--LOCUSTS--OSUNA--SAUCEJO--AN OLLA IN - PERFECTION--RONDA--SPLENDID SCENERY ON THE ROAD TO - GRAZALEMA--DISTANT VIEW OF ZAHARA--GRAZALEMA--EXTENSIVE PROSPECT - FROM THE PASS OF BOZAL--SECLUDED ORCHARDS OF - BENAMAJAMA--PAJARETE--EL BROQUE--UBRIQUE--DIFFICULT ROAD ACROSS THE - MOUNTAINS TO XIMENA--OUR GUIDE IN A RAGE--FINE - SCENERY--XIMENA--STRENGTH OF ITS CASTLE--ROAD TO GIBRALTAR. - - -On leaving Cordoba, we turned our horses' heads homewards, taking the -_arrecife_, or high road, to Seville and Cadiz. This appears to follow -the _direct_ Roman military way given in detail in the Itinerary of -Antoninus; the distances from station to station, on the modern road, -agreeing perfectly with those specified in the Itinerary, which, as it -runs very straight as far as Ecija, would not be the case if the Roman -road had diverged either to the right or left, as some are disposed to -make it, placing _Adaras_ (one of the intermediate stations) on the -margin of the Guadalquivir. - -Several monuments, bearing inscriptions alluding to this military way, -are preserved at Cordoba. They all describe it as being from the temple -of Janus _to_ the Boetis, (meaning, it must be presumed, the _mouth_ -of the river) and to the ocean. - -The road is no longer paved, as it is described to have been in those -days; but, nevertheless, it is good enough to enable a lumbering -diligence to pulverize the gravel daily on its tedious way between -Madrid and Seville. It is also furnished with relays of post horses,[1] -but the posting establishments being, as in most other countries of -Europe, under the direction of the government, is a satire upon the term -_post haste_. - -From Cordoba to Ecija is ten leagues.[2] The road, on reaching the river -_Badajocillo_, or Guadajoz, which is crossed by a lofty stone bridge, -commanding a fine view of Cordoba, leaves the rich alluvial valley of -the Guadalquivir, and enters upon an undulated tract of country, that -extends nearly all the way to Ecija. At three leagues is the scattered -village and post-house of Mango-negro, and three leagues beyond that -again, the settlement of Carlota. The ride is most uninteresting; as, -besides being tamely outlined and thinly peopled, the country is nearly -destitute of wood, and, in the summer season, of water; though, judging -from the extraordinary number of bridges, especially on drawing near -Carlota, there must be a superabundance in winter. Carlota is one of the -numerous villages which Charles the Third colonized from the Tyrol. It -consists principally of isolated cottages, standing some hundred yards -apart, and the same distance from the road; but there is a small -congregation of houses round the chapel, post-house, and _Casa del -Ayuntamiento_,[3] and a _Gasthof_, which I can say, from personal -experience, would do no discredit to Innsbruck itself. - -The parish contains 250 houses, and a population of 1500 souls. The -fields round Carlota certainly appear to be better tilled than those in -other parts of the country, and there is a German tidiness about its -white cottages, as well as a platterfacedness about the little -white-headed urchins assembled round the doors, that are quite -anti-Spanish. - -We obtained an excellent dinner at the _Tyroler Adler_, and, in the -afternoon, taking a by-road that struck off from the post route to the -right, cantered through plantations of olives nearly all the way to -Ecija,--four leagues. In the whole of the distance we did not see a drop -of running water, until we arrived on the brow of the hill overlooking -the river Genil. From this spot there is a fine view of the city of -Ecija, situated on the opposite bank. - -The volume of the Genil increases but little between Granada and Ecija; -for its principal feeders, though falling into it below Granada, are -expended in irrigating the _vega_; and the _salados_, on the western -side of the _Serrania de Ronda_, are mostly dry during the summer. In -winter, however, the Genil is so increased, that the bridge at Ecija (a -solid stone structure of eleven arches,) is carried quite across the -valley, although the bed of the river is not above 100 yards wide. - -Ecija is the Astigi of the Romans. It stands on a gentle acclivity, some -little distance from the Genil, and bears evident marks of antiquity. -Almost all traces of its walls have disappeared, however; and what -little remains of its tapia-built castle shows it to have been a work of -the Moors. The principal streets are wide, and contain many good houses; -and the _plaza_ is particularly well worth a visit from the lovers of -the picturesque. - -The city contains sixteen convents, and two hospitals, with churches in -proportion. None of them offers much to interest the protestant -traveller; but, I believe, several boast of possessing valuable relics. -The Royal stud-house is fast going to decay. - -The population of Ecija is estimated at 30,000 souls; a number that -appears totally disproportioned to the size of the city; particularly, -as it contains but a few tanneries, and trifling manufactories of shoes, -saddlery, &c. But, from the extreme fertility of the soil in its -neighbourhood--considered the most productive and best cultivated in -Andalusia--it is very possible this amount may not be exaggerated; for -in Spain the agriculturalists do not scatter themselves about in small -villages and hamlets over its surface, as in other countries, but -assemble together in large towns; so that those places which are -situated in fertile districts are as densely populated as our -manufacturing towns. - -The distance that a Spanish peasant sometimes travels daily, to and from -his work, is truly surprising, in a people that, generally speaking, -like to save themselves trouble. Whilst getting in the harvest, however, -they erect _ranchas_, or rush huts, to shelter them from the midday sun -and night dews, and dwell in these temporary habitations until their -work is completed. - -The crops of corn in the neighbourhood of Ecija are remarkably fine, -yielding forty to one, and though not so tall, perhaps, as those of the -_vega_ of Granada, the grains are larger and better ripened. - -I must not omit to say a good word for the _Posada_,--the -Post-house,--which I do the more willingly from being so seldom called -upon to speak in terms of commendation of Spanish "houses of -entertainment." Suffice it to observe, that, provided the traveller be -very hungry, and moderately fatigued, he may reckon on getting a supper -that he will be able to eat, and a bed whereon--albeit hard--he may -obtain some hours' unmolested repose. - -The remainder of the post road to Seville is so perfectly uninteresting, -that, reserving the Andalusian capital for a future tour, I shall take a -more direct route back to Gibraltar, through the _Serrania_ de Ronda; -merely offering a few remarks on the town of Carmona, which is situated -about two thirds of the way between Ecija and Seville, and referring my -readers to the Itinerary in the Appendix for any further details as to -the distances from place to place along the road. - -Carmona is one of the few Roman towns of Boetica of whose identity -there is scarcely a doubt; its name having undergone little or no -change. It is mentioned by most of the ancient writers, and called by -them, indifferently, Carmo and Carmona, and by Julius Caesar was esteemed -one of the strongest posts in the whole country. Its position, -considered relatively with the adjacent ground, is, indeed, most -commanding; being on the edge of a vast plateau of very elevated land, -which, stretching many miles to the south, falls abruptly along the -course of the river Corbones. - -The Roman name for this river is, I think, doubtful. Florez, and most -antiquaries, suppose it to be the _Silicensis_. Some, and, as it appears -to me, with better reason, give that name to the Badajocillo. Be that as -it may, the Corbones is but an inconsiderable stream, and is now crossed -by a stone bridge of three arches. - -The ascent to Carmona is very steep and tedious. The city is entered -through a triumphal Roman arch, which was repaired and spoilt by order -of Charles III. Another Roman gateway stands at the southern extremity -of the town, by which the road to Seville leaves it; and various parts -of the walls which yet encompass the place are the work of the same -people. The castle, however, is a relique of the Moors, and in a very -ruinous condition. - -This stronghold was wrested from the Moors by San Fernando, after a six -months' investment. It was a favourite place of residence of Peter, -surnamed the Cruel, who, looking upon it as impregnable, left his -children there in fancied security when he took the field for the last -time against his brother. Soon after Peter's death, however, it fell -into the hands of his rival, who, according to some accounts, caused the -children (his nephews) to be put to death in cold blood. - -The streets of Carmona are wide, clean, and well-paved; and the alameda -is enchanting, commanding a superb view of the ruined fortress, and over -the rich vales of the Corbones, and more distant Guadalquivir, and -embracing, at the same time, the whole chain of the Ronda mountains to -the eastward. - -The population of the place is about 10,000 souls. The inn is execrable. - -The post road to Cadiz is directed from Carmona on Alcala de Guadiara, -where a branch to Seville strikes off, nearly at a right angle, to the -east, thereby making a considerable detour. But in summer, carriages -even may proceed to Seville by a cross road, which not only lessens the -dust, but reduces the distance from six _long_ to the same number of -_short_ leagues; or, in other words, effects a saving of about three -miles. - -I now return to Ecija, and take the road from that city to Osuna; which -is tolerably good, and practicable for carriages during the greater part -of the year. The distance is five (very long) leagues. The country -presents a slightly undulated surface, and, excepting round the edges of -some basins wherein extensive lakes have been formed, is altogether -under the plough. At a little distance from the road, on the left hand, -a stream, called _El Salado_, flows towards the Genil. It does not -communicate with these lakes, nor has the name it bears been given from -its being impregnated with salt. - -During our ride, we observed a number of men advancing in skirmishing -order across the country, and thrashing the ground most savagely with -long flails. Curious to know what could be the motive for this -Xerxes-like treatment of the earth, we turned out of the road to inspect -their operations, and found they were driving a swarm of locusts into a -wide piece of linen spread on the ground at some distance before them, -wherein they were made prisoners. These animals are about three times -the size of an English grasshopper. They migrate from Africa, and their -spring visits are very destructive; for in a single night they will -entirely eat up a field of young corn. - -The _Caza de Langostas_[4] is a very profitable business to the -peasantry; as, besides a reward obtained from the proprietor of the soil -in consideration for service done, they sell the produce of their -_chasse_ for manure at so much a sack. - -Osuna is generally admitted to be the Urso,[5] Ursao, and Ursaon, of the -Roman historians; though it agrees in no one particular with the -description given of that place by Hirtius; for it is not by any means -"strong by nature;" it is in the vicinity of extensive -forests--rendering it perfectly absurd to suppose that Caesar's troops -"had to bring wood thither all the way from Munda;"--and, so far from -"there being no rivulet within eight miles of the place,"[6] a fine -stream meanders under its very walls. - -The town is situated at the foot of a hill that screens it effectually -to the eastward, and the summit of which is occupied by an old castle of -considerable strength and size, but now fast crumbling to decay. The -streets are wide and well paved, the houses particularly good;--indeed, -some of the palaces of the provincial nobility (with whom it was -formerly a favourite place of residence) are strikingly handsome; in -particular, that of the Duke who takes his title from the city; and -notwithstanding that the streets are overgrown with grass, and the -houses covered with mildew, I am, nevertheless, disposed to call Osuna -the best built and handsomest city in Andalusia, it contains a -university, fourteen convents, for both sexes, and a population of -16,000 souls; but has little or no trade--in fact, though on the -crossing of two high roads, (viz., from Gibraltar to Madrid, and from -Granada to Seville) it has all the dullness of a secluded country -village. - -The vicinity is very fruitful in olives and corn; the soil is a whitish -clay. To the S.E. the country is tolerably level all the way to -Antequera, and to the west is nearly flat to Seville; but at about a -mile southward from the city, shoot up the entangled roots of the -mountains of Ronda, presenting on that side a belt of very intricate -country. There are two roads to that place, the distance by the better, -which, I think, is also rather the shorter, of the two, is nine leagues. -It leaves Osuna by the gate of Granada, and, crossing the -before-mentioned stream (which is one of the sources of the Corbones), -advances some distance along a wide olive-planted valley. It then quits -the great road to Granada (which continues along the valley), and -ascends a steep and very long hill, from the crest of which, distant -about three miles from Osuna, there is a splendid view of the city, and -of the spacious plains extending to and bordering the distant -Guadalquivir, studded with the towns of Marchena, Fuentes, Palmar, and -Carmona. - -The road continues along the summit of the elevated range of hills which -it has now attained, for about five miles, winding amongst some -singularly mammillated hummocks, that have very much the appearance of -the tumuli left in an exhausted mining country. A succession of strongly -marked and peculiarly rugged ravines present themselves along the -eastern side of the ridge, and the ground falls also very abruptly in -the opposite direction; but to the south, whither the road is directed, -the descent is much more gradual; and from the foot of the hill, which -is bathed by a rivulet wending its way to the Genil, the country is -tolerably level, and the road extremely good the remaining distance to -Saucejo. - -In former days, this route was practicable for carriages throughout, and -with very little labour it might again be made so; but, though the high -road from the capital to Algeciras and Gibraltar, it is but little -travelled. The other road from Osuna to Ronda joins in here on the -right. - -The village of Saucejo is a post station three leagues from Osuna, and -six from Ronda. It contains some eight hundred inhabitants, great -abundance of stabling, but not one decent house. The posada is a -peculiarly unpromising establishment, and the landlady's face such as to -shut out all hope of any sound wine being found within its influence. We -had left Osuna so late in the day, however, that it would have been vain -to attempt reaching Ronda ere nightfall. - -We, therefore, reluctantly took possession of the _sala_, and, -presenting our sour-faced hostess with a rabbit and some partridges that -we had purchased on the road, asked if she could furnish the other -requisites for the concorporation of an _olla_, and whether it would be -possible to let us have our meal ere midnight; to both of which -questions, with sundry consequential nods of the head, she replied -severally, _en casa llena, presto se guisa la cena_.[7] Notwithstanding -this assurance, our supper was long in making its appearance, for the -operations of an _olla_ cannot be hurried. But, when it did come, it -bespoke our landlady to be a _cordon bleu_ of the first class; the -_pimento_[8] had been administered with judgment; the _berza_[9] had -duly extracted the flavour from the rabbit and partridges; the -_chorizo_[10] had imparted but the desirable smack of garlic to the -other ingredients; and the nutty savour of the _tocino_[11] was beyond -all praise. Nor was her wine such as we had expected; though somewhat -too light to have much influence on the digestion of the unctuous mess -placed before us. - -From Saucejo the road again branches into two, one route proceeding by -way of Almargen, the other by the Venta del Granadal. Both are -_reckoned_ six leagues; but the last mentioned is better than the other, -as well as shorter by several miles. It crosses a considerable stream -(here called the Algamitas, but which is, in fact, the main source of -the Corbones) by a ford, about three miles from Saucejo. The descent to -the stream is very bad, and, after keeping along its bank for another -mile, the road mounts to some elevated table land, from which the view -to the westward is obstructed by the rocky peaks of two detached -mountains about a mile off. These may be considered the outposts of the -Serrania in that direction; and, on the rough side of the more -considerable of the two, is the _Hermita de Canos Santos_. - -The country becomes very wild as the road advances, and rugged tors, -partially covered with wood, rise on all sides. At nine miles from -Saucejo is the lone venta of Granadal, and beyond it the mountains rise -to a yet greater height, but their slopes are less abrupt, and are -covered with forests of oak and cork. At twelve miles a track branches -off to the right, proceeding to the little town of Alcala del Valle, -which, though distant only about half a mile, is not visible from the -road. Soon after, a wide valley opens to the view, at the bottom of -which, encased by steep rocky banks, flows the river _Guadalete_. This -river is by some considered the _Lethe_ of the ancients; but, if it be -so, our long-cherished notions of the beauty of the Elysian fields have -been wofully faulty, for the country is rather tame, and the soil stony -and ungrateful. Thus far, however, it answers the description of Virgil, -that you - - "Breathe in ample fields the soft Elysian air." - -The town of Setenil is perched on a crag overhanging the left bank of -the Guadalete, and distant about three miles from the road, which keeps -under the broad summit of the hills forming the northern boundary of -Elysium. The sides of these are partially cultivated, and, from time to -time, a low cottage is met with as the road proceeds; but it soon enters -a cork-forest, and, threading its dark mazes for about four miles, -gradually gains the crest of the chain of hills overlooking the vale of -Ronda to the north, whence a splendid view is obtained of the fertile -basin, its rock-built fortress, and jagged sierras. - -The descent on the southern side of the hills is rather rapid, and, -after proceeding downwards about a mile, the road is joined on the left -by the other route from Saucejo. From hence to Ronda is two short -leagues. The road still continues descending for another mile; and, in -the course of the two following, it crosses three deep ravines, watered -by copious streams, and planted with all sorts of fruit-trees. - -In the bottom of one of these dells is ensconced the village of Arriate. -The last is a deep and very singular rent that extends, east and west, -quite across the basin of Ronda. Immediately after crossing this -fissure, the road begins to ascend the range of hills whereon Ronda is -situated, and, after winding for three miles amongst vineyards, olive -grounds, and corn-fields, enters the city on its north side. - -We were seven hours performing the journey, although the distance is but -six _leguas regulares_. - -I have already given so full a description of Ronda, that I will pass on -without further remark. - -To vary the scenery, and moved by curiosity to visit some of the scenes -of our acquaintance Blas's exploits, we determined to take a somewhat -circuitous route homewards, by way of Grazalema and Ubrique. - -The distance to the first named town is three long leagues. The road -descends gradually to the south-western extremity of the basin of Ronda, -where the Guadiaro, forming its junction with the Rio Verde, enters a -rocky defile, and is lost sight of amidst the roots of the rugged -sierras that spread themselves in all directions towards the -Mediterranean. - -Crossing the last named stream just before its confluence with the -Guadiaro, the road at once begins ascending towards a deeply marked gap, -that breaks the ridge of the mountains which rise along the right bank -of the stream. - -The pass is about four miles from Ronda, and commands a splendid view of -the fruitful valley, which lies, like an outspread _cornucopia_, at its -foot. On the other side, too, the scenery is not less fine, though of a -totally different nature. There a singular double-peaked crag rises up -boldly and darkly on the left hand, casting its shadow on the bright -foliage of an oak forest, which, deep sunk below the rest of the -country, spreads its verdant covering as far to the eastward as where -the huge Sierra Endrinal raises its cloud-enveloped head above all the -other mountains of the range. High seated on the side of this, a white -speck is seen which, in the course of time, proves to be the town of -Grazalema, whither we are bending our steps. - -Proceeding onwards, from the pass about a mile, the little village of -Montejaque shows itself, peeping from between the two peaks of the -mountain on the left, and, seemingly, quite inaccessible, even to a -goat. - -It is inhabited by a horde of half-tamed Saracens, who pride themselves -greatly on having foiled all the attempts of the French to make -themselves masters of the place;[12] and, as this elevated little -village is but three quarters of a mile from the high road, (which is -the principal communication between Malaga and Cadiz) it must have -possessed the means of annoying the enemy considerably. - -For the next two miles our way lay along the spine of a somewhat -elevated ridge; whence we looked down upon the before-mentioned wooded -country on one side, and on the other into a well cultivated valley. -From the bed of this, but at several leagues' distance, the rock-built -town of Zahara rears its embattled head. - -This little fortress is very noted in Moorish history; its capture by -Muley Aben Hassan, during a period of truce, having provoked the renewal -of the war which led to the loss of the crown, not only to himself -first, but to his race afterwards. - -One of the sources of the Guadalete flows in this valley, bathing the -walls of Zahara, which stands on the site of the Roman town of -Lastigi.[13] The present name, I should imagine, (considering the -locality) is derived rather from the Arabic word _Zaharat_ (mountain -top) than _Z[=a]hara_, (flowery) as supposed by Mr. Carter; for the -streets are cut out of the live rock on which the place is built. - -The road to Grazalema, now mounting another step, enters a dark forest, -and, continuing for five miles along the top of a narrow ridge, descends -into a vine-clad valley, that spreads out at the foot of the rough -sierra on the side of which Grazalema is seated. - -The ascent to the town is very bad, and is rendered worse than it -otherwise would be by being paved--for a paved road in Spain is sure to -be neglected. We scrambled up with much difficulty, and alighting at the -posada, remained for an hour or two, to procure some breakfast, and -examine the place. - -It is a singularly built town, the streets being heaped one above -another, like steps; and in several instances they are even worked out -of the native rock. There is, nevertheless, a fine open market-place, -which we found well supplied with fruit, vegetables, and game, including -venison and wild boar; and the town possesses several manufactories of -coarse cloths and serges. - -From its situation, immediately over the mouth of a deep ravine, by -which alone access can be obtained to one of the principal passes in the -Serrania, Grazalema occupies a very important military position, and may -be considered almost inassailable; for, whilst at its back a perfectly -impracticable mountain covers it from attack, it is protected to the -north and east by the precipitous ravine it overlooks; up the side of -which, even the narrow road from Ronda has not been practised without -much labour. The only side, therefore, on which it has to apprehend -danger, is that fronting the pass above it--i.e. to the westward. But it -has the means of offering an obstinate resistance, even in that -direction. - -Commanding, as it thus does, so important a passage over the mountains, -there can be but little doubt that Grazalema stands upon, or near, the -site of some Roman fortress; and, for reasons which I shall hereafter -mention, I feel inclined to place here the town of Ilipa.[14] - -The inhabitants amount to about 6,000, and are a savage, -ruffianly-looking race. During the "War of Independence," assisted by -their brethren of the neighbouring mountain fastnesses, they frequently -rose against their invaders, driving them out of the place; and on one -occasion they repulsed a French column of several thousand men, which -was sent to dispossess them of their stronghold. - -On leaving Grazalema, the road enters the narrow, rock-bound ravine -leading up to the pass, down which a noisy torrent rushes, leaping from -precipice to precipice, and lashing the base of the crag-built town, -whence we had just issued. A newly-built bridge, whose high-crowned arch -places it beyond the anger of the foaming stream, gives a passage to the -road to Zahara, which winds along the eastern face of the Sierra del -Pinar. Our route, however, continues ascending yet a mile and a half -along the right bank of the torrent, ere it reaches the long descried -gap in the mountain chain, the name of which is _El Puerto Bozal_. - -This is considered one of the most elevated passes in the whole Serrania -de Ronda, and must be at least 4,000 feet above the level of the sea. -The mountains on either side rise to a far greater elevation; that on -the right, distinguished by the name of _El Pico de San Cristoval_, is -said (as has already been stated) to have been the first land made by -Columbus on his return from the discovery of the "New World." - -The views from this pass are truly grand. At our backs lay the -beautifully wooded country we had travelled over in the morning--Ronda -and its vale, and the distant sierras of El Burgo and Casarabonela. -Before us, a wild mountain country extended for several miles; and -beyond, spreading as far as the eye could reach, were the vast plains of -Arcos, through which the gladdening Guadalete, winding its way past -Xeres, turns to seek the bay of Cadiz, whose glassy surface the white -walls of its proud mistress, and the deep blue ocean, could be seen -distinctly on the left, though at a distance of more than fifty miles. - -From the Puerto Bozal, a _trocha_, directed straight upon Ubrique, -strikes off to the left; but the saving in point of distance which this -road offers, is counterbalanced by its extreme ruggedness. We, -therefore, took the more circuitous route to that place by El Broque, -which, for the first five miles, is itself sufficiently bad to satisfy -most people. The views along it, looking to the south, are very fine; -but the lofty barren range of San Cristoval, on the side of which it is -conducted, shuts out the prospect in the opposite direction. - -At length, crossing over a narrow tongue that protrudes from the side of -the rugged mountain, we entered a dark, wooded ravine, and began to -descend very rapidly, and, to our astonishment, by a very good road. -After proceeding in this way about a mile, the valley gradually -expanding, we emerged from the wood, and found ourselves in a -sequestered glen of surpassing loveliness. A neat white chapel, with a -picturesque belfry, stood on a sloping green bank on our right hand, -and, scattered in all directions about it, were the trim, vine-clad -cottages of its frequenters, each screened partially from the sun in a -grove of almond, cherry, and orange trees. A crystal stream gurgled -through the fruitful dell, which was bounded at some little distance by -high wooded hills and rocky cliffs. - -This secluded retreat is called _La Huerta[15] de Benamajama_,--the -peculiarly guttural name proving it to have been a little earthly -paradise of the Moors. - -The road, which had thus far been nearly west, here, continuing along -the course of the little river Posadas, turns to the south; and, keeping -under a range of wooded hills on the left hand, in about an hour reaches -El Broque. This portion of the road is very good, and from it, looking -over the great plain bordering the Guadalete, may be seen the lofty -tower of _Pajarete_, perched on a conical mound, at about a league's -distance. The justly celebrated sweet wine called by this name was -originally produced from the vineyards in its vicinity, but it is now -made principally at Xeres. - -El Broque is a small clean town, abounding in wood and water, and -containing from 1500 to 2000 inhabitants. To the east it is overshadowed -by a range of lofty, wooded hills, which may be considered the last -buttresses of the Serrania; for the road to Cadiz, which here branches -off to the right, crossing the Posadas, traverses an uninterrupted plain -all the way to Arcos. - -The route to Ubrique, on the other hand, again strikes into the -mountains; though, for yet two miles further, it follows the course of -the little river and its impending sierra. Arrived, however, at the -mouth of a ravine, which brings down another mountain-torrent to the -plain, it turns to the north, keeping along the margin of the stream, -until the bridge of Tavira offers the means of passage; when, crossing -to the opposite bank, it once more enters the intricate belt of -mountains. - -The name of the stream which is here crossed is the Majaceite; and on -its right bank, close to the bridge, is a solitary venta. The scenery is -extremely beautiful. The mountains of Grazalema, which we had traversed -in the morning, form the background; the ruined tower of Alamada, -perched on an isolated knoll, stands boldly forward in middle distance; -and close at hand are the rough, coppiced banks and crystal current of -the winding Majaceite. - -From hence to Ubrique the country is very wild and rugged. The town is -first seen (when about a league off) from the summit of a round-topped -hill, six miles from El Broque. It is nestled in the bottom of a deep -valley, hemmed in by singularly rugged mountains. The first part of the -descent is gradual, but a steep neck of land must be crossed ere -reaching the town; and, as if to render the approach as difficult as -possible, the road over this mound has been paved. - -Amongst the rude masses of sierra that encompass Ubrique, numerous -rivulets pierce their way to the lowly valley, where, collected in two -streams, they are conducted to the town, and, fertilizing the ground in -its neighbourhood, cause it to be encircled by a belt of most luxuriant -vegetation. The mountains in the vicinity abound also in lead-mines, but -they are no longer worked. "Where are we to find money? Where are we to -look for security?" were the answers given to _my_ question, "Why not?" - -The streets of Ubrique are wide, clean, and well paved; the houses lofty -and good; but the inn, alas! affords the wearied traveller little more -than bare walls and a wooden floor. The population of the place may be -estimated at 8000 souls. It contains some tanneries, water-mills, and -manufactories of hats and coarse cloths. It does not strike me as being -a likely site for a Roman city. - -We were on horseback by daybreak, having before us a long ride, and, for -the first five leagues (to Ximena), a very difficult country to -traverse. For about a mile the road is paved, and confined to the vale -in which Ubrique stands by a precipitous mountain. But, the westernmost -point of this ridge turned, the route to Ximena (leaving a road to -Alcala de los Gazules on the right) takes a more southerly direction -than heretofore, and, entering a hilly country, soon dwindles into a -mere mule-track. Ere proceeding far in this direction, another road -branches off to Cortes, winding up towards some cragged eminences that -serrate the mountain-chain on the left. The path to Ximena, however, -continues yet two miles further across the comparatively undulated -country below, which thus far is under cultivation; but, on gaining the -summit of a hill, distant about four miles from Ubrique, a complete -change takes place in the face of the country; the view opening upon a -wide expanse of forest, furrowed by numerous deep ravines, and studded -with rugged tors. - -The road through this overshadowed labyrinth is continually mounting and -descending the slippery banks of the countless torrents that intersect -it, twisting and winding in every direction; and, on gaining the heart -of the forest, the path is crossed and cut up by such numbers of -timber-tracks, and is screened from the sun's cheering rays by so -impervious a covering, that the difficulty of choosing a path amongst -the many which presented themselves was yet further increased by that of -determining the point of the compass towards which they were -respectively directed. - -The guide we had brought with us, though pretending to be thoroughly -acquainted with every pathway in the forest, was evidently as much at a -_nonplus_ as we ourselves were; and his muttered _malditos_ and -_carajos_, like the rolling of distant thunder, announced the coming of -a storm. At length it burst forth: the track he had selected, after -various windings, led only to the stump of a venerable oak. Never was -mortal in a more towering passion; he snatched his hat from his head, -threw it on the ground, and stamped upon it, swearing by, or at--for we -could hardly distinguish which--all the saints in the calendar. After -enjoying this scene for some time, we spread ourselves in different -directions in search of the beaten track; and, at last, a swineherd, -attracted by our calls to each other, came to our deliverance; and our -guide, after bestowing sundry _malditos_ upon the wood, the torrents, -the timber-tracks, and those who made them, resumed his wonted state of -composure, assuring us, that there was some accursed hobgoblin in this -_hi-de-puta_ forest, who took delight in leading good Catholics astray; -that during the war an entire regiment, misled by some such -_malhechor_,[16] had been obliged to bivouac there for the night, to the -great detriment of his very Catholic Majesty's service. - -Soon after this little adventure we reached a solitary house, called the -_Venta de Montera_, which is something more than half way between -Ubrique and Ximena; _i.e._ eleven miles from the former, and nine from -the latter. A little way beyond this the road reaches an elevated chain -of hills, that separates the rivers Sogarganta and Guadiaro; the summit -of which being rather a succession of peaks than a continuous ridge, -occasions the track to be conducted sometimes along the edge of one -valley, sometimes of the other. The mountain falls very ruggedly to the -first-named river, but in one magnificent sweep to the Guadiaro. - -The views on both sides are extremely fine; that on the left hand -embraces Gibraltar's cloud-wrapped peaks, the mirror-like Mediterranean, -Spain's prison-fortress of Ceuta, and the blue mountains of Mauritania; -the other looks over the silvery current of the Sogarganta, winding -amidst the roots of a peculiarly wild and wooded country, and towards -the rock-built little fortress of Castellar. - -The road continues winding along this elevated heather-clad ridge for -four miles, and then descends by rapid zig-zags towards Ximena. - -The town lies crouching under the shelter of a rocky ledge, that, -detached from the rest of the sierra, and crowned with the ruined towers -of an ancient castle, forms a bold and very picturesque feature in the -view, looking southward. The town is nearly a mile in length, and -consists principally of two long narrow streets, one extending from -north to south quite through it, the other leading up to the castle. The -rest of the _callejones_[17] are disposed in steps up the steep side of -the impending hill, and can be reached only on foot. - -The old castle--in great part Roman, but the superstructure Moorish--is -accessible only on the side of the town (east), and in former days must -have been almost impregnable. The narrow-ridged ledge whereon it stands -has been levelled, as far as was practicable, to give capacity to this -citadel, which is 400 yards in length, and varies in breadth from 50 to -80. It rises gently, so as to form two hummocks at its extremities; and -the narrowest part of the inclosure being towards the centre, it has -very much the form of a calabash. - -A strongly built circular tower, mounting artillery, and enclosed by an -irregular loop-holed work of some strength, occupies the southern peak -of the ridge; and a fort of more modern structure, but feeble profile, -covers that in which it terminates to the north. An irregularly indented -wall, or in some places scarped rock, connects these two retrenched -works along the eastern side of the ridge; but, in the opposite -direction, the cliff falls precipitously to the river Sogarganta; -rendering any artificial defences, beyond a slight parapet wall, quite -superfluous. - -Numerous vaulted tanks and magazines afforded security to the ammunition -and provisions of the isolated little citadel; but they are now in a -wretched state, as well as the outworks generally; for the fortress was -partially blown up by Ballasteros, (A.D. 1811) upon his abandoning it, -on the approach of the French, to seek a surer protection under the guns -of Gibraltar. - -In exploring the ruined tanks of this old Moorish fortress, chance -directed our footsteps to an unfrequented spot where some smugglers were -in treaty with a revenue _guarda_, touching the amount of bribe to be -given for his connivance at the entry of sundry mule loads of contraband -goods into the town on the following night. - -We did not pry so curiously into the proceedings of the contracting -parties, as to ascertain the precise sum demanded by this faithful -servant of the crown for the purchase of his acquiescence to the -proposed arrangement, but, from the elevated shoulders, outstretched -arms, and down-stretched mouth, of one of the negociators, it was -evident that the demand was considered unconscionable; and the roguish -countenance of the custom-house shark as clearly expressed in reply, -"But do you count for nothing the sacrifice of principle I make?" - -From the ruined ramparts of Fort Ballasteros (the name by which the -northern retrenched work of the fortress is distinguished) the view -looking south is remarkably fine. The keep of the ancient castle, -enclosed by its comparatively modern outworks, and occupying the extreme -point of the narrow rocky ledge whereon we were perched, stands boldly -out from the adjacent mountains; whilst, deep sunk below, the tortuous -Sogarganta may be traced for miles, wending its way towards the -Almoraima forest. Above this rise the two remarkable headlands of -Gibraltar and Ceuta; the glassy waterline between them marking the -separation of Europe and Africa. - -That Ximena was once a place of importance there can be no doubt, since -it gave the title of King to Abou Melic, son of the Emperor of Fez; and -that it was a Roman station (though the name is lost,) is likewise -sufficiently proved, as well by the walls of the castle, as by various -inscriptions which have been discovered in the vicinity. At the present -day, it is a poor and inconsiderable town, whose inhabitants, amounting -to about 8000, are chiefly employed in smuggling and agriculture. - -On issuing from the town, the road to Gibraltar crosses the Sogarganta, -having on its left bank, and directly under the precipitous southern -cliff of the castle rock, the ruins of an immense building, erected some -sixty years back, for the purpose of casting shot for the siege of -Gibraltar! - -The distance from Ximena to the English fortress is 25 miles. The road -was, in times past, practicable for carriages throughout; and even now -is tolerably good, though the bridges are not in a state to drive over. -It is conducted along the right bank of the Sogarganta; at six miles, is -joined by a road that winds down from the little town of Castellar on -the right; and, at eight, enters the Almoraima forest by the "Lion's -Mouth," of which mention has already been made. The river, repelled by -the steep brakes of the forest, winds away to the eastward to seek the -Guadiaro and Genil. - -Here I will take a temporary leave of my readers, to seek a night's -lodging at a cottage in the neighbourhood, which, being frequented by -some friends and myself in the shooting season, we knew could furnish us -with clean beds and a _gazpacho_. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - DEPARTURE FOR CADIZ--ROAD ROUND THE BAY OF - GIBRALTAR--ALGECIRAS--SANDY BAY--GUALMESI--TARIFA--ITS - FOUNDATION--ERROR OF MARIANA IN SUPPOSING IT TO BE CARTEIA--BATTLE - OF EL SALADO--MISTAKE OF LA MARTINIERE CONCERNING IT--ITINERARY OF - ANTONINUS FROM CARTEIA TO GADES VERIFIED--CONTINUATION OF - JOURNEY--VENTAS OF TAVILLA AND RETIN--VEJER--CONIL--SPANISH METHOD - OF EXTRACTING GOOD FROM EVIL--TUNNY FISHERY--BARROSA--FIELD OF - BATTLE--CHICLANA--ROAD TO CADIZ--PUENTE ZUAZO--SAN FERNANDO--TEMPLE - OF HERCULES--CASTLE OF SANTI PETRI--ITS IMPORTANCE TO CADIZ. - - -Hoping that the taste of my readers, like my own, leads them to prefer -the motion of a horse to that of a ship, the chance of being robbed to -that of being sea-sick, and the savoury smell of an _olla_ to the greasy -odour of a steam engine, I purpose in my next excursion to conduct them -to Cadiz by the rude pathway practised along the rocky shore of the -Straits of Gibraltar, and thence, "_inter aestuaria Baetis_," to Seville, -instead of proceeding to those places by the more rapid and now -generally adopted means of fire and water. From the last named "fair -city" we will return homewards by another passage through the mountains -of Ronda. - -To authorise _me_--a mere scribbler of notes and journals--to assume the -plural _we_, that gives a Delphic importance to one's opinions (but -under whose shelter I gladly seek to avoid the charge of egotism), I -must state that a friend bore me company on this occasion; our two -servants, with well stuffed saddle-bags and _alforjas_, "bringing up the -rear." - -Proceeding along the margin of the bay of Gibraltar, leaving -successively behind us the ruins of Fort St. Philip, which a few years -since gave security to the right flank of the lines drawn across the -Isthmus in front of the British fortress; the crumbling tower of -_Cartagena_, or _Recadillo_, which, during the seven centuries of Moslem -sway, served as an _atalaya_, or beacon, to convey intelligence along -the coast between Algeciras and Malaga; and, lastly, the scattered -fragments of the yet more ancient city of Carteia, we arrive at the -river Guadaranque. - -The stream is so deep as to render a ferry-boat necessary. That in use -is of a most uncouth kind, and so low waisted that "Almanzor," who was -ever prone to gad amongst the Spanish lady Rosinantes, could not be -deterred from showing his gallantry to some that were collected on the -opposite side of the river, by leaping "clean out" of the boat before it -was half way over. Fortunately, we had passed the deepest part of the -stream, so that I escaped with a foot-bath only. - -The road keeps close to the shore for about a mile and a half, when it -reaches the river Palmones, which is crossed by a similarly -ill-contrived ferry. From hence to Algeciras is three miles, the first -along the sea-beach, the remainder by a carriage-road, conducted some -little distance inland to avoid the various rugged promontories which -now begin to indent the coast, and to dash back in angry foam the -hitherto gently received caresses of the flowing tide. - -The total distance from Gibraltar to Algeciras, following the sea-shore, -is nine English miles; but straight across the bay it is barely five. - -Algeciras, supposed to be the Tingentera of the ancients, and by some -the Julia Traducta of the Romans, received its present name from the -Moors--_Al chazira_, the island. In the days of the Moslem domination, -it became a place of great strength and importance; and when the power -of the Moors of Spain began to wane, was one of the towns ceded to the -Emperor of Fez, to form a kingdom for his son, Abou Melic, in the hope -of presenting a barrier that would check the alarming progress of the -Christian arms. From that time it became a constant object of -contention, and endured many sieges. The most memorable was in 1342-4, -during which cannon were first brought into use by its defenders. It, -nevertheless, fell to the irresistible Alfonso XI., after a siege of -twenty months. - -At that period, the town stood on the right bank of the little river -Miel (instead of on the left, as at present), where traces of its walls -are yet to be seen; but its fortifications having shortly afterwards -been razed to the ground by the Moors, the place fell to decay, and the -present town was built so late as in 1760. It is unprotected by walls, -but is sheltered from attack on the sea-side by a rocky little island, -distant 800 yards from the shore. This island is crowned with batteries -of heavy ordnance, and has, on more occasions than one, been found an -"ugly customer" to deal with. The anchorage is to the north of the -island, and directly in front of the town. - -The streets of Algeciras are wide and regularly built, remarkably well -paved, and lined with good houses; but it is a sun-burnt place, without -a tree to shelter, or a drain to purify it. Being the port of -communication between Spain and her _presidario_, Ceuta, as well as the -military seat of government of the _Campo de Gibraltar_, it is a place -of some bustle, and carries on a thriving trade, by means of _felucas_ -and other small craft, with the British fortress. The population may be -reckoned at 8,000 souls, exclusive of a garrison of from twelve to -fifteen hundred men. - -The Spaniards call the rock of Gibraltar _el cuerpo muerto_,[18] from -its resemblance to a corpse; and, viewed from Algeciras, it certainly -does look something like a human figure laid upon its back, the -northernmost pinnacle forming the head, the swelling ridge between that -and the signal tower, the chest and belly, and the point occupied by -O'Hara's tower the bend of the knees. - -The direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz crosses the most elevated pass -in the wooded mountains that rise at the back of the town, and, from its -excessive asperity, is called "_The Trocha_," the word itself signifying -a _bad_ mountain road. The distance by this route is sixty-two miles; by -Tarifa it is about a league more, and this latter road is not much -better than the other, though over a far lower tract of country. - -On quitting the town, the road, having crossed the river Miel, and -passed over the site of "Old Algeciras," situated on its right bank, -edges away from the coast, and, in about a mile, reaches a hill, whence -an old tower is seen standing on a rocky promontory; which, jutting some -considerable distance into the sea, forms the northern boundary of a -deep and well sheltered bay. The Spanish name for this bight is _La -Ensenada de Getares_; but by us, on account of the high beach of white -sand that edges it, it is called "Sandy bay." It strikes me this must be -the _Portus albus_ of Antoninus's Itinerary, since its distance from -Carteia corresponds exactly with that therein specified, and renders the -rest of the route to Gades _intelligible_, which, otherwise, it -certainly is not. But more of this hereafter. - -Within two miles of Algeciras the road crosses two mountain torrents, -the latter of which, called _El Rio Picaro_[19] (I presume from its -occasional _treacherous_ rise), discharges itself into the bay of -Getares. Thenceforth, the track becomes more rugged, and ascends towards -a pass, (_El puerto del Cabrito_) which connects the _Sierra Santa Ana_ -on the right with a range of hills that, rising to the south, and -closing the view in that direction, shoots its gnarled roots into the -Straits of Gibraltar. - -The views from the pass are very fine--that to the eastward, looking -over the lake-like Mediterranean and towards the snowy sierras of -Granada; the other, down upon the rough features of the Spanish shore, -and towards the yet more rugged mountains of Africa; the still distant -Atlantic stretching away to the left. The former view is shut out -immediately on crossing the ridge: but the other, undergoing pleasing -varieties as one proceeds, continues very fine all the way to Tarifa. - -The road is now very bad, being conducted across the numerous rough -ramifications of the mountains on the right hand, midway between their -summits and the sea. At about seven miles from Algeciras it reaches the -secluded valley of Gualmesi, or Guadalmesi, celebrated for the -crystaline clearness of its springs, and the high flavour of its -oranges; and, crossing the stream, whence the romantic dell takes its -name, directs itself towards the sea-shore, continuing along it the rest -of the way to Tarifa; which place is distant twelve miles from -Algeciras. - -The stratification of the rocks along this coast is very remarkable: the -flat shelving ledges that border it running so regularly in parallel -lines, nearly east and west, as to have all the appearance of artificial -moles for sheltering vessels. It is on the contrary, however, an -extremely dangerous shore to approach. - -The old Moorish battlements of Tarifa abut against the rocky cliff that -bounds the coast; stretching thence to the westward, along, but about 50 -yards from, the sea. It is not necessary, therefore, to enter the -fortress; indeed, one makes a considerable detour in doing so; but -curiosity will naturally lead all Englishmen--who have the -opportunity--to visit the walls so gallantly defended by a handful of -their countrymen during the late war; and those who cannot do so may not -object to read a somewhat minute description of them. - -The town closes the mouth of a valley, bound by two long but slightly -marked moles, protruded from a mountain range some miles distant to the -north; the easternmost of which terminates abruptly along the sea-shore. -The walls extend partly up both these hills; but not far enough to save -the town from being looked into, and completely commanded, within a very -short distance. Their general lines form a quadrangular figure, about -600 yards square; but a kind of horn work projects from the N.E. angle, -furnishing the only good flanking fire that the fortress can boast of -along its north front. Every where else the walls, which are only four -feet and a half thick, are flanked by square towers, themselves hardly -solid enough to bear the _weight_ of artillery, much less its blows. - -At the S.W. angle, but within the enceinte of the fortress, and looking -seawards, there is a small castle, or citadel, the _alcazar_ of its -Moorish governors; and immediately under its machicoulated battlements -is one of the three gateways of the town. The two others are towards the -centre of its western and northern fronts. - -In the attack of 1811, the French made their approaches against the -north front of the town, and effected a breach towards its centre, in -the very lowest part of the bed of the valley; thus most completely -"taking the bull by the horns;" (and Tarifa bulls are not to be trifled -with--as every Spanish _picador_ knows,) since the approach to it was -swept by the fire of the projecting _horn_-work I have before mentioned. - -When the breach was repaired, a marble tablet was inserted in the wall, -bearing a modest inscription in Latin, which states that "this part of -the wall, destroyed by the besieging French, was re-built by the British -defenders in November, 1813." - -When the French again attacked the fortress, in 1823, profiting by past -experience, they established their breaching batteries in a large -convent, distant about 200 yards from the walls on the west front of the -town; and, favouring their assault by a feigned attack on the gate in -its south wall, they carried the place with scarcely any loss. - -The streets of Tarifa are narrow, dark, and crooked; and, excepting that -they are clean, are in every respect Moorish. The inhabitants are rude -in speech and manners, and amount to about 8000. - -From the S.E. salient angle of the town, a sandy isthmus juts about a -thousand yards into the sea, and is connected by a narrow artificial -causeway with a rocky peninsula, or island, as it is more generally -termed, that stretches yet 700 or 800 yards further into the Straits of -Gibraltar. This is the most southerly point of Europe, being in latitude -30 deg. 0' 56", which is nearly six miles to the south of Europa Point. - -The island is of a circular form, and towards the sea is merely defended -by three open batteries, armed _en barbette_; but to the land side, it -presents a bastioned front, that sweeps the causeway with a most -formidable fire. A lighthouse stands at the extreme point of the island, -which also contains a casemated barrack for troops, and some remarkable -old tanks, perhaps of a date much prior to the arrival of the Saracens. - -The foundation of the town of Tarifa is usually ascribed to Tarik Aben -Zaide, the first Mohammedan invader of Spain; who probably, previous to -crossing the Straits, had marked the island as offering a favourable -landing-place, as well as a secure depot for his stores, and a safe -refuge in the event of a repulse. Mariana, however, imagined, that -Tartessus, or Carteia--which he considered the same place--stood upon -this spot; and, under this persuasion, he speaks of the admiral of the -Pompeian faction retiring there, after his action with Caesar's fleet, -and drawing a chain across the mouth of the port to protect his -vessels; a circumstance which alone proves that Carteia was not Tarifa; -since it must be evident to any one who has examined the coast -attentively, that no port could possibly have existed there, which could -have afforded shelter to a large fleet, and been closed by drawing a -chain across its mouth. - -Others, again, suppose Tarifa to occupy the site of Mellaria. But I -rather incline to the opinion of those who consider it doubtful whether -_any_ Roman town stood upon the spot; an opinion for which I think I -shall hereafter be able to assign sufficient reason. - -As Tarifa was the field wherein the Mohammedan invaders of Spain -obtained their first success, so, six centuries after, did it become the -scene of one of their most humiliating defeats; the battle of the -_Salado_, gained A.D. 1340, by Alphonso XI., of Castile, having -inflicted a blow upon them, from the effects of which they never -recovered. Four crowned heads were engaged in that sanguinary -conflict--the King of Portugal, as the ally of the Castillian hero; -Jusuf, King of Granada; and Abu Jacoob, Emperor of Morocco. The -last-named, according to the Spanish historians, had crossed over from -Africa, with an army of nearly half a million of men, to avenge the -death of his son, Abou Melic; killed the preceding year at the battle of -Arcos. - -The little river, which gave its name to that important battle gained by -the Christian army on its banks, winds through a plain to the westward -of Tarifa, crossing the road to Cadiz, at about two miles from the -town.[20] The valley is about three miles across, and extends a -considerable distance inland. It is watered by several mountain streams -that fall into the Salado. That rivulet is the last which is met with, -and is crossed by a long wooden bridge on five stone piers. - -The term _Salado_ is of very common occurrence amongst the names of the -rivers of the south of Spain; though in most cases it is used rather as -a term signifying a _water-course_, than as the name of the rivulet: -thus _El Salado de Moron_ is a stream issuing from the mountains in the -vicinity of the town of Moron; _El Salado de Porcuna_ is a torrent that -washes the walls of Porcuna; and so with the rest. As, however, the word -in Spanish signifies salt, (used adjectively) it has led to many -mistakes, and occasioned much perplexity in determining the course of -the river _Salsus_, mentioned so frequently by Hirtius; but to which, in -point of fact, the word _Salado_ has no reference whatever, being -applied to numerous streams that are perfectly free from salt. - -On the other hand, it might naturally be supposed that the word _Salido_ -(the past participle of the verb _Salir_, to issue) would have been used -if intended to signify a source or stream issuing from the mountains. - -It seems to me, therefore, that the word _Salado_ must be a derivation -from the Arabic _S[=a]l_, a water-course in a valley; which, differing -so little in sound from _Salido_, continued to be used after the -expulsion of the Moors; until at length, its derivation being lost, it -came to be considered as signifying what the word actually means in -Spanish, viz. impregnated with salt. - -At the western extremity of the plain, watered by the _Salado de -Tarifa_, a barren Sierra terminates precipitously along the coast, -leaving but a narrow space between its foot and the sea, for the passage -of the road to Cadiz. Under shelter of the eastern side of this Sierra, -standing in the plain, but closing the little Thermopylae, I think we may -place the Roman town of Mellaria,[21] eighteen miles from Carteia, and -six from Belone Claudia, according to the Itinerary of Antoninus; and -mentioned by Strabo as a place famous for curing fish. - -Tarifa, which, as I have said before, is supposed by some authors to be -on the site of Mellaria, is in the first place rather too near Calpe -Carteia to accord with that supposition; and in the next, it is far too -distant from Belon; the site of which is well established by numerous -ruins visible to this day, at a _despoblado_,[22] called Bolonia. - -It may be objected, on the other hand, that the position which I suppose -Mellaria to have occupied, is as much too far removed from Carteia, as -Tarifa is too near it: and following the present road, it certainly is -so. But there is no reason to take for granted that the ancient military -way followed this line; on the contrary, as the Romans rather preferred -straight to circuitous roads, we may suppose that, as soon as the nature -of the country admitted of it, they carried their road away from the -coast, to avoid the promontory running into the sea at Tarifa. Now, an -opportunity for them to do this presented itself on arriving at the -valley of Gualmesi, from whence a road might very well have been carried -direct to the spot that I assign for the position of Mellaria; which -road, by saving two miles of the circuitous route by Tarifa, would fix -Mellaria at the prescribed distance from Carteia, and also bring it -(very nearly) within the number of miles from Belon, specified in the -Roman Itinerary, viz. six; whereas, if Mellaria stood where Tarifa now -does, the distance would be nearly _ten_. - -The city of Belon appears to have slipped bodily from the side of the -mountain on which it was built (probably the result of an earthquake), -as its ruins may be distinctly seen when the tide is out and the water -calm, stretching some distance into the Atlantic. Vestiges of an -aqueduct may also be traced for nearly a league along the coast, by -means of which the town was supplied with water from a spring that rises -near Cape Palomo, the southernmost point of the same Sierra under which -Belon was situated. - -In following out the Itinerary of Antoninus--according to which the -total distance from Calpe to Gades is made seventy-six miles[23]--the -next place mentioned after Belon Claudia is Besippone, distant twelve -miles. This place, it appears to me, must have stood on the coast a -little way beyond the river Barbate; and not at Vejer, (which is several -miles inland) as some have supposed; for the distance from the ruins of -Bolonia to that town far exceeds that specified in the Itinerary. - -Vejer (or Beger, as it is indifferently written) may probably be where a -Roman town called Besaro stood, of which Besippo was the port; the -latter only having been noticed in the Itinerary from it being situated -on the direct military route from Carteia to Gades; the former by -Pliny,[24] as being a place of importance within the _Conventus -Gaditani_. - -From Besippone to Mergablo--the next station of the Itinerary--is six -miles; and at that distance from the spot where I suppose the first of -those places to have stood, there is a very ancient tower on the sea -side, (to the westward of Cape Trafalgar) from which an old, apparently -Roman, paved road, now serving no purpose whatever, leads for several -miles into the country. From this tower to Cadiz--crossing the Santi -Petri river _at its mouth_--the distance exceeds but little twenty-four -miles; the number given in the Itinerary. - -The distances I have thus laid down agree pretty well throughout with -those marked on the Roman military way; which, it may be supposed, were -not _very exactly_ measured, since the fractions of miles have in every -case been omitted. The only objection which can be urged to my -measurements is, that they make the Roman miles too long. Having, -however, taken the Olympic stadium (in this instance) as my standard, of -which there are but 600 to a degree of the Meridian, or seventy-five -Roman miles; and as my measurements, even with it, are still rather -_short_, the reply is very simple, viz. that the adoption of any -_smaller_ scale would but _increase the error_. - -From the spot where I suppose Mellaria to have stood--which is marked by -a little chapel standing on a detached pinnacle of the _Sierra de -Enmedio_, overhanging the sea--the distance to the Rio Baqueros is two -miles; the road keeping along a flat and narrow strip of land, between -the foot of the mountain and the sea. - -The coast now trends to the south west, a high wooded mountain, -distinguished by the name of the Sierra de _San Mateo_, stretching some -way into the sea, and forming the steep sandy cape of _Paloma_, a league -on the western side of which are the ruins of Belon. - -The road to Cadiz, however, leaves the sea-shore to seek a more level -country, and, inclining slightly to the north, keeping up the _Val de -Baqueros_ for five miles, reaches a pass between the mountains of San -Mateo and Enmedio. - -The valley is very wild and beautiful. Laurustinus, arbutus, oleander, -and rhododendron are scattered profusely over the bed of the torrent -that rushes down it; and the bounding mountains are richly clothed with -forest trees. - -From the pass an extensive view is obtained of the wide plain of Vejer, -and _laguna de la Janda_ in its centre. Descending for two miles and a -half,--the double-peaked Sierra _de la Plata_ being now on the left -hand, and that of _Fachenas_, studded with water-mills, on the -right--the road reaches the eastern extremity of the above-named plain, -where the direct road from Algeciras to Cadiz falls in, and that of -Medina Sidonia branches off to the right. The Cadiz route here inclines -again to the westward, and, in three miles, reaches the _Venta de -Tavilla_. - -From hence two roads present themselves for continuing the journey; one -proceeding along the edge of the plain; the other keeping to the left, -and making a slight detour by the _Sierra de Retin_; and when the plain -is flooded, it is necessary to take this latter route. Let those who -find themselves in this predicament avoid making the solitary hovel, -called the _Venta de Retin_, their resting-place for the night, as I was -once obliged to do; for, unless they are partial to a guard bed, and to -go to it supperless, they will not meet with accommodation and -entertainment to their liking. - -We will return, however, to the _Venta de Tabilla_, which is a fraction -of a degree better than that of Retin. From thence the distance to Vejer -is fourteen miles. The first two pass over a gently swelling country, -planted with corn; the next six along the low wooded hills bordering the -_laguna de la Janda_; the remainder over a hilly, and partially wooded -tract, whence the sea is again visible at some miles distance on the -left. - -In winter the greater part of the plain of Vejer is covered with water, -there being no outlet for the _Laguna_; which, besides being the -reservoir for all the rain that falls on the surrounding hills, is fed -by several considerable streams. - -A project to drain the lake was entertained some years ago; but, like -all other Spanish projects, it failed, after an abortive trial. In its -present state, therefore, the whole surface of the plain is available -only for pasture; and numerous herds are subsisted on it. The gentle -slopes bounding it, being secure from inundation, are planted with corn. - -Vejer is situated on the northern extremity of a bare mountain ridge, -that stretches inland from the coast about five miles, and terminates in -a stupendous precipice along the right bank of the river Barbate. -Towards the sea, however, it slopes more gradually, forming the forked -headland, for ever celebrated in history, called Cape Trafalgar. - -When arrived within half a mile of the lofty cliff whereon the town -stands, the road enters a narrow gorge, by which the Barbate escapes to -the ocean; this part of its course offering a remarkable contrast to the -rest, which is through an extensive flat. - -A stone bridge of three curiously constructed arches, said to be Roman, -gives a passage over the stream; and a venta is situated on the right -bank, immediately under the town; the houses of which may be seen edging -the precipice, at a height of five or six hundred feet above the river. - -The road to Cadiz, and consequently all others,--it being the most -southerly,--avoids the ascent to Vejer, which is very steep, and so -circuitous as to occupy fully half an hour. But the place is well worth -a visit, if only for the sake of the view from the church steeple, which -is very extensive and beautiful; and taken altogether, it is a much -better town than could be expected, considering its truly out-of-the-way -situation. That it was a Roman station, its position alone sufficiently -proves; but whether it be the Besaro, or Belippo, or even Besippo of -Pliny, seems doubtful. - -It occupies a tolerably level space; though bounded on three sides by -precipices, and is consequently still a very defensible post, -notwithstanding its walls are all destroyed. The streets are narrow, but -clean and well paved; and the place contains many good houses, and -several large convents. The inns, however, are such wretched places, -that on one occasion, when I passed a night there, I had to seek a -resting-place in a private house. - -The Barbate is navigable for large barges up to the bridge; but the -difficulty of access to the town prevents its carrying on much trade. -The population amounts to about 6,000 souls. - -There is a delightful walk down a wooded ravine on the western side of -the town, by which the road to Cadiz and the valley of the Barbate may -be regained quicker than by retracing our footsteps to the Venta. Of -this latter I feel bound to say--after much experience--that there is -not a better halting-place between Cadiz and Gibraltar; albeit, many -stories are told of robberies committed even within its very walls. Let -the traveller take care, therefore, to show his pistols to mine host, -and to lock his bedroom door. - -We resumed our journey with the dawn. The road keeps for nearly a mile -along the narrow, flat strip between the bank of the river, and the high -cliff whereon the town is perched. The gorge then terminates, and an -open country permits the roads to the different neighbouring places to -branch off in their respective directions. From hence to Medina Sidonia -is thirteen miles; to Alcala de los Gazules, twenty; and to -Chiclana--whither we were bound--fifteen;--but, leaving these three -roads on the right, we proceeded by a rather more circuitous route to -the last mentioned place, by Conil and Barrosa. - -The distance from Vejer to Conil is nine miles; the country undulated -and uninteresting. Conil is a large fishing town, containing a swarming -population of 8,000 souls. The smell of the houses where the tunny fish -(here taken in great abundance) are cut up and cured, extends inland for -several miles; but the inhabitants consider it very wholesome; and to my -animadversive remarks on the filth and effluvium of the place itself, -answer was made, "_no hay epidemia aqui_;"[25]--quite a sufficient -excuse, according to their ideas, for submitting to live the life of -hogs. - -We arrived just as the fishermen had enclosed a shoal of Tunny with -their nets; so, putting up our horses, we waited to see the result of -their labours. The whole process is very interesting. The Tunny can be -discovered when at a very considerable distance from the land; as they -arrive in immense shoals, and cause a ripple on the surface of the -water, like that occasioned by a light puff of wind on a calm day. Men -are, therefore, stationed in the different watch towers along the coast, -to look out for them, and, immediately on perceiving a shoal, they make -signals to the fishermen, indicating the direction, distance, &c. Boats -are forthwith put to sea, and the fish are surrounded with a net of -immense size, but very fine texture, which is gradually hauled towards -the shore. - -The tunny, coming in contact with this net, become alarmed, and make off -from it in the only direction left open to them. The boats follow, and -draw the net in, until the space in which the fish are confined is -sufficiently small to allow a second net, of great strength, to -circumscribe the first; which is then withdrawn. The tunny, although -very powerful, (being nearly the size and very much the shape of a -porpoise) have thus far been very quiet, seeking only to escape under -the net; and have hardly been perceptible to the spectators on the -beach. But, on drawing in the new net, and getting into shallow water, -their danger gives them the courage of despair, and furious are their -struggles to escape from their hempen prison. - -The scene now becomes very animated. When the draught is heavy--as it -was in this instance--and there is a possibility of the net being -injured, and of the fish escaping if it be drawn at once to land, the -fishermen arm themselves with harpoons, or stakes, having iron hooks at -the end, and rush into the sea whilst the net is yet a considerable -distance from the shore, surrounding it, and shouting with all their -might to frighten the fish into shallow water, when they become -comparatively powerless. - -In completing the investment of their prey, some of the fishermen are -obliged even to swim to the outer extremity of the net, where, holding -on by the floats with one hand, they strike, with singular dexterity, -such fish as approach the edge, in the hope of effecting their escape, -with a short harpoon held in the other. The men in the boats, at the -same time, keep up a continual splashing with their oars, to deter the -tunny from attempting to leap over the hempen enclosure; which, -nevertheless, many succeed in doing, amidst volleys of "_Carajos!_" - -The fish are thus killed in the water, and then drawn in triumph on -shore. They are allowed to bleed very freely; and the entrails, roes, -livers, and eyes, are immediately cut out, being perquisites of -different authorities. - -The flesh is salted, and exported in great quantities to Catalonia, -Valencia, and the northern provinces of the kingdom. A small quantity of -oil is extracted from the bones. - -Some years since, the Duke of Medina Sidonia enjoyed the monopoly of the -tunny fishery on this part of the coast, which was calculated to have -given him a yearly profit of L4000 sterling. But, at the time of my -visit, he had been deprived of this privilege, much to the regret of the -inhabitants of Conil; for the nets and salting-houses, being the -property of the duke, had to be hired, and as there were no capitalists -in the place able to embark in so expensive a speculation as the -purchase of others, the "company" that engaged in the fishery was, -necessarily, composed of strangers to Conil, whose only object was to -obtain the greatest possible profit during the short period for which -they held the duke's property on lease. They, consequently, drove the -hardest bargain they could with the poor inhabitants, who, accustomed -all their lives to this employment, could not turn their hands to any -other, and were forced to submit. - -I do not mean to defend monopolies in general, but what I have stated -shows, that in the present state of Spain they are almost unavoidable -evils. The inhabitants of Conil, at all events, complained most bitterly -of the change. - -The fishery lasts from March to July, and the season of which I write -(then drawing to a close,) was considered a very successful one, 1300 -tunny having been taken at Conil, and 1600 at Barrosa. Each fish is -worth ten dollars, or two pounds sterling. The falling off has, however, -been most extraordinary, as in former days we read of 70,000 fish having -been taken annually. - -From Conil the road keeps along the coast for twelve miles, to Barrosa, -a spot occupying a distinguished place in the pages of history, but -marked only by an old tower on the coast, and a small building, called a -_vigia_, or watch-house, situated on a knoll that rises slightly above -the general level of the country. This was the great object of -contention on the celebrated 5th March, 1811. - -Never, perhaps, were British soldiers placed under greater disadvantages -than on this glorious day, through the incapacity or pusillanimity, or -both, of the Spanish general who commanded in chief. And though far more -important victories have been gained by them, yet the cool bearing and -determined courage that shone forth so conspicuously on this occasion, -by completely removing the erroneous impression under which their -opponents laboured, as to the fitness of Englishmen for soldiers, -produced, perhaps, better effects than might have attended a victory -gained on a larger scale, under _more favourable_ circumstances. - -I have met with Spaniards who absolutely shed tears when speaking of -this battle, in which they considered our troops had been so shamefully -abandoned by their countrymen, or rather by the general who led them. -Nor is it surprising that the English character should stand so high as -it does in this part of the Peninsula, when, within the short space of a -day's ride, three such names as Tarifa, Trafalgar, and Barrosa, are -successively brought to recollection. - -The walls of the watch-house of Barrosa still bear the marks of mortal -strife, and the hill on which it stands is even yet strewed with the -bleached bones of the horses which fell there; but so slight is the -command the knoll possesses--indeed in so unimportant, pinched-up a -corner of the coast is it situated--that those who are not aware of the -unaccountable events which led to the battle, may well be surprised at -its having been chosen as a military position. - -Striking into the pine-forest, which bounds the field of battle to the -west, we arrived in about half an hour at the bridge and mill of -Almanza, and proceeding onwards, in four miles reached Chiclana; first -winding round the base of a conical knoll, surmounted by a chapel -dedicated to _Santa Ana_. - -Chiclana is the Highgate of the good citizens of Cadiz, and contains -many "genteel family residences," adapted for summer visiters; but the -place is disgracefully dirty, so that little benefit can be expected -from _change of air_. The gardens in its vicinage offer agreeable -promenades, however; and there is a fine view from the chapel of _Santa -Ana_, whence may be seen - - "Fair Cadiz, rising o'er the dark blue sea." - -Chiclana contains a population of about 6000 souls, and boasts of -possessing a tolerably good _posada_, whereat _calesas_, and other -vehicles, may be hired to proceed to the neighbouring towns; the roads -to all, even the direct one to Vejer, being open to wheel carriages. - -A rivulet bathes the north side of the town, dividing it from a large -suburb, and flowing on to the Santi Petri river. The Cadiz road, -crossing this stream by a long wooden bridge, proceeds for three miles -and a half (in company with the routes to _Puerto Santa Maria_, _Puerto -Real_, and _Xeres_,)[26] along a raised causeway, which keeps it above -the saltpans and marshes that render the _Isla de Leon_ so difficult of -approach. Arrived at a wide stream, a ferry-boat affords the means of -passage; and, on gaining the southern bank, the great road from Cadiz to -Madrid (passing through the towns above mentioned) presents itself. - -Taking the direction of Cadiz, our passports were immediately demanded -at the entrance of a fortified post, called the _Portazgo_,[27] the -first advanced redoubt of the multiplied defences of the _Isla de Leon_. -From thence the road is conducted, for nearly a mile, through bogs and -saltpans, as before, to the _Puente Zuazo_, a bridge over the river -_Santi Petri_, or _San Pedro_. This, by the way, is rather an arm of the -sea than a river, since it communicates between the bay of Cadiz and the -ocean, and forms the _Isla_ (island) _de Leon_, which otherwise would be -an isthmus. The channel is very wide, deep, and muddy; the bridge has -five arches, and was built by a Doctor _Juan Sanchez de Zuazo_ (whence -its name), on the foundation of one that existed in the days of the -Romans, and is supposed to have served as an aqueduct to supply Cadiz -with water from the _Sierra de Xeres_. It is protected by a double tete -de pont; and has one arch cut, and its parapets pierced with embrasures, -to enable artillery to fire down the stream. - -Soon after reaching the right bank of the San Pedro, the long straggling -town of the Isla, or, more properly, _San Fernando_, commences. The main -street is upwards of a mile in length, wide, and rather handsome. The -population of this place is estimated at 30,000 souls; but it varies -considerably, according to the date of the last visitation of yellow -fever. - -At the southern extremity of the city a low range of hills begins, which -stretches for a mile and a half towards the sea. The causeway to Cadiz, -however, is directed straight upon the _Torre Gorda_, standing upon the -shore more to the westward, and three miles distant from the town of -_San Fernando_. - -Here commences the narrow sandy isthmus that connects the point of land -on which Cadiz is built with the _Isla_. It is five miles long, and in -some places so narrow, that the waves of the Atlantic on one side, and -those of the bay of Cadiz on the other, reach the walls of the causeway. -About half way between the _Torre Gorda_ and Cadiz, the isthmus is cut -across by a fort called the _Cortadura_, beyond which it becomes much -wider. - -At five miles to the eastward of the _Torre Gorda_, or Tower of -Hercules, as it is also called, is the mouth of the Santi Petri river, -and four miles only beyond it is the _Vigia de Barrosa_; so that the -distance from thence to Cadiz is almost doubled by making the detour by -Chiclana. It is more than probable, therefore, that the Romans had a -military post, commanding a _flying bridge_, at the mouth of the river; -for, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, the coast-road from _Calpe_ to -_Gades_ was not directed from _Mergablo_ "_ad pontem_," as in the route -laid down from _Gades_ to _Hispalis_ (Seville), but "_ad -Herculem_;"--that is, it may be presumed, to the temple of Hercules,[28] -situated, according to common tradition, on a part of the coast near the -mouth of the Santi Petri river, over which the waves of the Atlantic now -roll unobstructed; and the supposed site of which temple is the same -distance from Cadiz as the bridge of Zuazo, thereby agreeing with the -Roman Itineraries. - -At the distance of 1200 yards from the river's mouth a rocky islet rises -from the sea, bearing on its scarped sides the inapproachable little -castle of _Santi Petri_, the bleached walls of which are said to have -been built from the ruins of the famed temple of Hercules. - -Contemptible as this isolated fortress appears to be, as well from its -size as from any thing that art has done for it, the fate of Cadiz, -nevertheless, depends in a great measure upon its preservation; since, -from the command the castle possesses of the entrance of the river, an -enemy, who may gain possession of it, is enabled to force the passage of -the stream under its protecting fire, and take in reverse all the -defenses of the _Isla de Leon_. Cadiz would thereby be reduced to its -own resources; and strong as Cadiz is, yet, like all fortresses defended -only by art, it must eventually fall. - -The surrender of the castle of _Santi Petri_ to the French, in the siege -of 1823, occasioned the immediate fall of Cadiz, its defenders seeing -that further resistance would be unavailing; whereas, the capture of the -_Trocadero_, about which so much was thought, did little towards the -reduction of the place. Indeed, the _Trocadero_ was in possession of the -enemy during the whole period of the former siege, 1810-12. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - CADIZ--ITS FOUNDATION--VARIOUS NAMES--PAST PROSPERITY--MADE A FREE - PORT IN THE HOPE OF RUINING THE TRADE OF GIBRALTAR--UNJUST - RESTRICTIONS ON THE COMMERCE OF THE BRITISH FORTRESS--DESCRIPTION - OF CADIZ--ITS VAUNTED AGREMENS--SOCIETY--MONOTONOUS - LIFE--CATHEDRAL--ADMIRABLY BUILT SEA WALL--NAVAL ARSENAL OF LA - CARRACA--ROAD TO XERES--PUERTO REAL--PUERTO DE SANTA - MARIA--XERES--ITS FILTH--WINE STORES--METHOD OF PREPARING - WINE--DOUBTS OF THE ANCIENT AND DERIVATION OF THE PRESENT NAME OF - XERES--CARTHUSIAN CONVENT--GUADALETE--BATTLE OF XERES. - - -The date of the foundation of Cadiz is lost in the impenetrable chaos of -heathen mythology. One of the numerous conquerors, distinguished by the -general name of Hercules, who, in early ages, carried their victorious -arms to the remotest extremities of Europe, appears to have erected a -temple at the westernmost point of the rocky ledge on which Cadiz now -stands; and round this temple, doubtless, a town gradually sprung up. -But the place came only to be known and distinguished by the name -_Gadira_, when the commercial enterprise of the Phoenicians led them -to make a settlement on this defensible island; and the foundation of -the temple dedicated to Hercules, which Strabo describes as situated at -the eastern extremity of the same island, "where it is separated from -the continent by a strait only about a stadium in width," is ascribed to -Pygmalion, nearly nine centuries before the Christian era. - -Gadira, or Gades, to which the name now became corrupted, was the first -town of Spain forcibly occupied by the Carthagenians, who, throwing off -the mask of friendship, took possession of it about the year B.C. 240. -It was the last place that afforded them a refuge in the war which -shortly followed with the Romans, into whose hands it fell, B.C. 203. -From the Romans it afterwards received the name of Augusta Julia, -probably from its adherence to the cause of Caesar, who restored to the -temple of Hercules the treasures of which it had been plundered during -the civil wars that had previously distracted the country. But its old -name, altered apparently to its present orthography by the Moors, seems -always to have prevailed. - -Under the Moslems, Cadiz does not appear to have enjoyed any very great -consideration; and it was wrested from them without difficulty by San -Fernando, soon after the capture of Seville. - -On the discovery of America, Cadiz became, next to Seville (which was -endowed with peculiar privileges), the richest city of Spain. Its -imports at that time amounted annually to eleven millions sterling. But -since the loss of the American colonies, its prosperity has been rapidly -declining; and some years back, when the intestine troubles of Spain -rendered it impossible for her to afford protection to her commerce, the -trade of Cadiz may be said to have ceased. - -A _fillip_ was, however, given to its commerce, for it would be absurd -to call it an attempt to restore it--about nine years since, by making -it a free port. But this apparently liberal act, not having been -accompanied by any reduction of the duties imposed on foreign produce -introduced for consumption into the country, was merely a disgraceful -contrivance on the part of the king and his ministers to obtain money. - -On the promulgation of the edict constituting Cadiz a free port, it -became at once an entrepot for the produce of all nations; the goods -brought to it being subjected only to a trifling charge for landing, &c. -The proceeds of this pitiful tax went to the coffers of the -municipality, which had paid the king handsomely for the "act of grace" -bestowed upon the city; and no source of revenue was opened to the -public treasury by the grant of this special privilege, since the goods -landed at Cadiz could only be carried into the interior of the country -on payment of duties that amounted to an absolute prohibition of them, -and they were, consequently, introduced surreptitiously by bribing the -city authorities and custom-house officers; who, in their turn, paid -large sums for their respective situations to the ministers of the -crown! - -Such is the way in which the commercial concerns of Spain are conducted. -The whole affair was, in fact, a temporary expedient to raise money by -selling Cadiz permission to smuggle. At the same time, the Spanish -government--by offering foreign merchants a mart which, at first sight, -seemed more conveniently situated for disposing of their goods than -Gibraltar--hoped to give a death-blow to the commerce of the British -fortress, which it had found to thrive, in spite of all the iniquitous -restrictions imposed upon it; such, for instance, as the exaction of -duties on goods shipped from thence, double in amount to those levied on -the _same articles_, if brought from the ports of France and Italy; the -depriving even Spanish vessels, if coming from, or touching at, -Gibraltar, of all advantages in regard to the rate of duty otherwise -granted to the national flag;[29] and various other abuses, to which it -is astonishing the British government has so long quietly submitted. - -The scheme, however, though successful for a time against Gibraltar, did -no permanent good to Cadiz; and the trade of the place has relapsed into -its former sickly state. - -"Cadiz! sweet Cadiz," has been so extolled by modern authors, that I am -almost afraid to say what I think of it. It strikes me, that the very -favourable impression it usually makes on my countrymen is owing to its -being, in most cases, the first place they see after leaving England; -or, perchance, the first place they have seen out of England; to whose -gloomy brick-built towns its bright houses and battlements offer as -agreeable a contrast, as the picturesque costume of its inhabitants does -to the ill-cut garments of the natives of our island. - -Under any circumstances, however, the first impression made by Cadiz is -favourable, unless you enter by the fish-market. The streets are -straight, tolerably well lighted, and remarkably well paved, many of -them having even the convenience of a _trottoir_. There is one handsome -square, and the houses, generally, are lofty, and those which are -inhabited are clean. But many are falling rapidly to decay, from the -diminished population and prosperity of the place. - -On the other hand, the city does not contain one handsome public -building; and, if one leaves the principal thoroughfares, its boasted -cleanliness and "sweetness" turn out to be mere poetical delusions. In -fact, the vaunted _agremens_ of the city to me were undiscoverable. -There is but one road to ride upon, one promenade to walk upon, one -sheet of water to boat upon. The Alameda, on which much hyperbolical -praise has been bestowed, is a dusty gravel walk, extending about half a -mile along the ramparts. It is lined--not shaded--with stunted trees, -and commands a fine view of the marsh-environed bay when the tide is in, -and a disagreeable effluvium from it when the tide is out; and, I must -say, that I never could perceive any more "harmony and fascination" in -the movements of the pavonizing _gaditanas_ who frequent it, than in -those of the fair promenaders of other Spanish towns. The _Plaza de San -Antonio_ is a square, situated in the heart of the city, which, paved -with large flag-stones, and lighted with lamps, may be considered a kind -of treadmill, that fashion has condemned her votaries to take an hour's -exercise in after the fatigues of the day. - -The society of Cadiz is now but second rate; for it is no longer -inhabited as in bygone days, when the nobility from all parts of the -kingdom sought shelter behind its walls. At the Tertulias of the first -circle, gaming is the principal pastime, and I have been given to -understand that the play is very high. The public amusements are few. -There is a tolerable theatre, where Italian Operas are sometimes -performed; but, for the great national diversion, the bull-fight, the -inhabitants have to cross the bay to Puerto Santa Maria. - -In fine, for one whose time is not fully occupied by business, I know of -few _less_ agreeable places of residence than Cadiz. The transient -visiter, who prolongs his stay beyond two days, will find time hang very -heavy on his hands; for having, in that short space, seen all the place -contains, he will be driven to wile away the tedious hours after the -usual manner of its inhabitants, viz., by devoting the morning to the -_cafes_ and billiard-rooms, the afternoon to the _siesta_, evening to -the Alameda, dusk to the Plaza San Antonio and its _Neverias_,[30] and -night to the Tertulias--for such is the life of a Spanish _man of -pleasure_! - -The hospitable mansion of the British Consul General affords those who -have the good fortune to possess his acquaintance a happy relief from -this monotonous and wearisome life; and, besides meeting there the best -society the place affords, the lovers of the fine arts will derive much -gratification from the inspection of Mr. Brackenbury's picture gallery, -which contains many choice paintings of Murillo, and the best Spanish -Masters. - -What few other good paintings Cadiz possesses are scattered amongst -private houses. The churches contain none of any merit. In one of the -Franciscan convents, however, is to be seen a painting that excites much -interest, as being the last which occupied the pencil of Murillo, though -it was not finished by him. Our conductor told me that a most -distinguished English nobleman had offered 500 guineas for it, but the -pious monks refused to sell it to a heretic!--Perhaps, His Grace did not -know before on what _conscientious_ grounds his liberal offer had been -declined. - -The old Cathedral is not worth visiting. The new one, as it is called, -was commenced in the days of the city's prosperity; but the source from -whence the funds for building it were raised, failed ere it was half -finished; and there it stands, a perfect emblem of Spain herself!--a -pile of the most valuable materials, planned on a scale of excessive -magnificence, but put together without the slightest taste, and falling -to decay for want of revenue![31] - -The walls of the city--excepting those of its land front, which are -remarkably well constructed, and kept in tolerable order--are in a -deplorable state of dilapidation, and in some places the sea has -undermined, and made such breaches in them, as even to threaten the -very existence of the city, should it be exposed to a tempest similar to -that which did so much mischief to it some seventy years since. This -decay is particularly observable, too, on the south side of the -fortress, where the sea-wall is exposed to the full sweep of the -Atlantic; and here the mischief has resulted chiefly from the want of -timely attention to its repairs, for the wall itself is a perfect -masterpiece of the building art. Regarding it as such, I venture to -devote a small space to its description, conceiving that a hint may be -advantageously taken therefrom in the future construction of piers, -wharfs, &c. in our own country; and I am the more induced to do so, -since so small a portion of the work remains in its pristine state, that -it already must be spoken of rather as a thing that _has been_, than one -which _is_. - -The great object of the builder was to secure the foundation of his wall -from the assaults of the ocean, which, at times, breaks with excessive -violence upon this coast. For this purpose, he formed an artificial -beach, by clearing away the loose rocks which lay strewed about, and -inserting in the space thus prepared and levelled, a strong wooden -frame-work formed of cases dovetailed into and well fastened to each -other. These cases were filled with stones, and secured by numerous -piles. The surface was composed of beams of wood, placed close -together, carefully caulked, and laid so as to form an inclined plane, -at an angle of eight degrees and a half with the horizon. - -This beach extended twenty-seven yards from the sea-wall; and its foot, -by resting against a kind of breakwater formed of large stones, was -saved from being exposed, vertically, to the action of the sea. The -waves, thus broke upon the artificial beach, and running up its smooth -surface without meeting the slightest resistance, expended, in a great -measure, their strength ere reaching the foot of the wall. - -To avoid, however, the shock which would still have been felt by the -waves breaking against the ramparts, (especially when the sea was -unusually agitated) had the planes of the beach and wall met at an -angle, the upper portion of the surface of the artificial beach--for -about fifteen feet--was laid with large blocks of stone, and united in a -curve, or inverted arch, with the casing of the walls of the rampart; -and the waves being, by this means, conducted upwards, without -experiencing a check, spent their remaining strength in the air, and -fell back upon the wooden beach in a harmless shower of spray. - -So well was the work executed, that many portions of the arch which -connected the beach with the scarped masonry of the rampart are yet -perfect, and may be seen projecting from the face of the wall, about -twenty feet above its foundation; although the beach upon which it -rested has been entirely swept away. - -Another cause, besides neglect, has contributed greatly to the -destruction of this work; namely, the injudicious removal of the stones -and ledges of rock which formed the breakwater of the beach, for -erecting houses and repairing the walls of the city. - -The ride round the ramparts would be an agreeable variety to the -_eternal paseo_ on the _Camino de Ercoles_,[32] but for the insufferable -odours that arise from the vast heaps of filth deposited on one part of -it. To such an extent has this nuisance reached, that, without another -river Alpheus, even the hard-working son of Jupiter (the city's reputed -founder) would find its removal no easy task. - -The arsenal of the _Carracas_ is situated on the northern bank of the -Santi Petri river, about half a mile within the mouth by which that -channel communicates with the bay of Cadiz, and at a distance of two -leagues from the city, to which it has no access by land. Its plan is -laid on a magnificent scale, and it may boast of having equipped some of -the most formidable armaments that ever put to sea; but it is now one -vast ruin, hardly possessing the means of fitting out a cockboat. A -fire, that reduced the greater part of it to ashes some five and thirty -years since, furnishes the national vanity with an agreeable excuse for -its present condition. - -The road from Cadiz to Port St. Mary's is very circuitous, and offers -little to interest any persons but military men and salt-refiners. I -will, therefore, pass rapidly over it--which its condition enables me to -do--merely observing that, from the branching off of the Chaussee to -Chiclana at the _Portazgo_, it makes a wide sweep round the salt marshes -at the head of the bay of Cadiz, to gain _Puerto Real_ (eighteen miles -from Cadiz); and then leaving the peninsula of the _Trocadero_ on the -left, in four miles reaches a long wooden bridge over the -Guadalete--here called the river San Pedro. Two miles further on it -crosses another stream by a similar means; and this second river, which -is connected with the Guadalete by a canal, has become the principal -channel of communication between Xeres and the bay of Cadiz. - -A road now turns off to the right to Xeres; another, on the left, to -Puerto Santa Maria; and that which continues straight on proceeds to San -Lucar, on the Guadalquivir. - -Puerto Real is a large but decayed town, possessing but little -trade,[33] and no manufactories. Its environs, however, are -fertile--enabling it to contend with Port St. Mary's in supplying the -Cadiz market with fruit and vegetables;--and a good crop of hay might -even be taken from its streets after the autumnal rains!--The population -is estimated at 12,000 souls. - -Puerto Santa Maria is a yet larger town than Puerto Real, and is -computed to contain 18,000 inhabitants. It is situated within the mouth -and extending along the right bank of the river, into which the -Guadalete has been partly turned. The entrance to the harbour is -obstructed by a sand bank, which is impassable at low tide; and at -times, when the wind is strong from the S. W., this bar interrupts -altogether the water communication with Cadiz.[34] - -The distance between the two places, across the bay, is but five miles; -by the causeway, twenty-four. - -The main street of Puerto Santa Maria is of great length, wide, and -rather handsome; and the place has, altogether, a very thriving look; -for which it is indebted, as well to the great share it enjoys of the -Xeres wine trade,[35] as to the fruitfulness of its fields and orchards. -The country, to some considerable extent round the town, is perfectly -flat; and the soil (a dark alluvial deposit,) is rich, and highly -cultivated; it is, in fact, the market-garden of Cadiz, the inhabitants -of which place would die of scurvy, if cut off for six months from the -lemon-groves of Port St. Mary. - -The position of Puerto Santa Maria seems to correspond pretty well with -that of the Portus Gaditanus of Antoninus, viz., 14 miles from the -Puente Zuazo, (_Pons_;) the difference being only that between English -and Roman miles. But, besides that there is every appearance of the -Guadalete having altered its course, and consequently swept away all -traces of the Roman port, (or yet more ancient one of _Menesthes_, -according to Strabo,) a fertile soil is, of all things, the most -inimical to the _preservation_ of _ruins_; for gardeners will have no -respect for old stones when they stand in the way of cabbage-plants. It -would, therefore, be vain to look for any vestiges of the ancient town, -in the vicinity of the modern one. - -To proceed to Xeres, we must retrace our steps, along the chaussee to -Cadiz, for about a mile; when, leaving the two roads branching off to -Puerto Real and San Lucar on the right and left, our way continues -straight on, traverses a cultivated plain for another mile, and then -ascends a rather steep ridge, distinguished in this flat country by the -name of _Sierra de Xeres_, though scarcely 500 feet high. - -The view from the summit of this ridge is, nevertheless, remarkably -fine. It embraces the whole extent of the bay of Cadiz; the bright towns -which stand upon its margin; the curiously intersected country that cuts -them off from each other; and the winding courses of the Guadalete and -Santi Petri. - -The slope of the hill is very gradual on the side facing Xeres, and the -view is tame in comparison with that in the opposite direction. The -road, which traverses a country covered with corn and olives, is -_carriageable_ throughout; but there is a better route, which turns the -Sierra to the eastward, keeping nearer the marshes of the Guadalete. The -distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Xeres, by the direct road, is nine -miles; by the post route, ten. - -Xeres is situated in the lap of two rounded hillocks, which shelter it -to the east and west; and it covers a considerable extent of ground. The -city, properly so called, is embraced by an old crenated Moorish wall, -which, though enclosing a labyrinth of narrow, ill-built, and worse -drained streets, is of no great circuit, and is so intermixed with the -houses of the suburbs, as to be visible only here and there. The limits -of the ancient town are well defined, however, by the numerous gateways -still standing, and which, from the augmented size of the place, appear -to be scattered about it without any object. Some of the old buildings -and narrow streets are very sketchy, and the number of gables and -chimneys cannot fail to strike one who has been long accustomed to the -flat-roofed cities of Andalusia. - -The principal merchants of the place reside mostly in the suburbs; -where, besides having greater space for their necessarily extensive -premises, their wine stores are better situated for ventilation; a very -important auxiliary in bringing the juice of the grape to a due state of -perfection. The numerous clean and lofty stores, interspersed with -commodious and well-built houses, gardens, greenhouses, &c., give the -suburbs an agreeable, refreshing appearance. But it is needful to walk -the streets with nose in air, and eyes fixed on things above; for, -though much wider, and consequently more freely exposed to the action of -the sun and air, than those of the circumvallated city, they are yet -more filthy, and quite as nauseating. Now and then, indeed, a generous -brown sherry odour salutes the third sense, counteracting, in some -degree, the unwholesome effects of the noxious cloacal miasms. But the -bad scents prevail in the proportion of ten to one; and, like the -far-famed distilling city of Cologne, Xeres seems to have bottled up, -and hermetically sealed, all its sweets for exportation. - -The population of the place is enormous--being estimated at no less -than 50,000 souls. But the amount is subject to great variations, -dependant on the recentness of the last endemic fever, generated in its -pestiferous gutters. The inhabitants are all, more or less, connected -with the wine trade--which is the only thing thought of or talked of in -the place. - -The store-houses are all above ground. They are immense buildings, -having lofty roofs supported on arches, springing from rows of slender -columns; and their walls are pierced with numerous windows, to admit of -a thorough circulation of air. Some are so large as to be capable of -containing 4000 butts, and are cool, even in the most sultry weather. -The exhalations are, nevertheless, rather _overcoming_, even unaided by -the numerous _samples_, of which one is tempted to make trial. The -number of butts annually made, or, more correctly speaking, _collected_, -at Xeres, amounts to 30,000. Of this number, one half is exported to -England, and includes the produce of nearly all the choicest vineyards -of Xeres; for, in selecting their wines for shipment, the Xeres houses -carefully avoid mixing their first-growth wines with those of lighter -quality, collected from the vineyards of Moguer, San Lucar, and Puerto -Real; or even with such as are produced on their own inferior grounds. - -The remaining 15,000 butts are in part consumed in the country; where a -light wine, having what is called a _Manzanilla_[36] flavour, is -preferred--or sold to the shippers from other places, where they are -generally mixed with inferior wines. - -The total number of butts shipped, annually, from the different ports -round the bay of Cadiz, may be taken at the following average-- - - From Xeres 15,000 almost all to England. - " Puerto Santa Maria 12,000 chiefly to England and the - United States. - { principally to the Habana, - " Chiclana 3,000{ the Ports of Mexico, and - " Puerto Real 500{ Buenos Ayres. - ------- - Total 30,500 - ------- - -But, besides the above, a prodigious quantity of wine finds its way to -England from Moguer and San Lucar, which one never hears of but under -the common denomination of Sherry. - -Most of the principal merchants are growers, as well as venders of wine; -which, with foreign houses, renders it necessary that one partner of the -firm, at least, should be a Roman Catholic; for "_heretics_" cannot hold -lands in Spain. Those who are growers have a decided advantage over such -as merely make up wines; for the latter are liable to have the produce -of the inferior vineyards of San Lucar, Moguer, and other places, mixed -up by the grower of whom they purchase. All Sherries, however, are -_manufactured_; for, it would be almost as difficult to get an unmixed -butt of wine from a Xeres merchant, as a direct answer from a quaker. -But there is no concealment in this mixing process; and it is even quite -necessary, in order to keep up the stock of old wines, which, otherwise, -would soon be consumed. - -These are kept in huge casks--not much inferior in size to the great ton -of Heidelberg--called "_Madre_"[37] butts; and some of these old ladies -contain wine that is 120 years of age. It must, however, be confessed, -that the plan adopted in keeping them up, partakes somewhat of the -nature of "_une imposture delicate_;" since, whenever a gallon of wine -is taken from the 120 year old butt, it is replaced by a like quantity -from the next in seniority, and so on with the rest; so that even the -very oldest wines in the store are daily undergoing a mixing process. - -It is thus perfectly idle, when a customer writes for a "ten-year old" -butt of sherry, to expect to receive a wine which was grown that number -of years previously. He will get a most excellent wine, however, which -will, probably, be prepared for him in the following -manner:--Three-fourths of the butt will consist of a three or four year -old wine, to which a few gallons of _Pajarete_, or _Amontillado_,[38] -will be added, to give the particular flavour or colour required; and -the remainder will be made up of various proportions of old wines, of -different vintages: a dash of brandy being added, to preserve it from -sea-sickness during the voyage. - -To calculate the age of this mixture appears, at first sight, to involve -a laborious arithmetical operation. But it is very simply done, by -striking an average in the following manner:--The _fond_, we will -suppose, is a four-years' old wine, with which figure we must, -therefore, commence our calculations. To flavour and give age to this -foundation, the hundred and twenty years' old "_madre_" is made to -contribute a gallon, which, being about the hundreth part of the -proposed butt, diffuses a year's maturity into the composition. The -centiginarian stock-butt next furnishes a quantity, which in the same -way adds another year to its age. The next in seniority supplies a -proportion equivalent to a space of two years; and a fourth adds a -similar period to its existence. So that, without going further, we have -4+1+1+2+2=10, as clear as the sun at noon-day, or a demonstration in -Euclid. - -This may appear very like "_bishoping_," or putting marks in a horse's -mouth to conceal his real age. But the intention, _in the case of the -wine_, is by no means fraudulent, but simply to distribute more equally -the good things of this life, by furnishing the public with an excellent -composition, which is within the reach of many; for, if this were not -done, the consequence would be, that the Xeres merchant would have a -small quantity of wine in his stores, which, from its extreme age, would -be so valuable, that few persons would be found to purchase it, and a -large stock of inferior wines, which would be driven out of the market -by the produce of other countries. - -The quality of the wine depends, therefore, upon the quantity and age of -the various _madre_ butts from which it has been flavoured; and the -taste is varied from dry to sweet, and the colour from pale to brown, by -the greater or less admixture of _Pajarete_, _Amontillado_, and _boiled_ -sherry. I do not think that the custom of adding boiled wine obtains -generally, for it is a very expensive method of giving age. It is, -however, a very effectual mode, and one that is considered equivalent to -a voyage across the Atlantic, at the very least. - -I have heard of an extensive manufacturer (not of wine) in our own -country, who had rather improved on this plan of giving premature old -age to his wines. He called one of the steam-engines of his factory -_Bencoolen_, and another _Mobile_; and, slinging his butts of Sherry and -Madeira to the great levers of the machinery, gave them the benefit of a -ship's motion, as well as a tropical temperature, without their quitting -his premises; and, after a certain number of weeks' oscillation, he -passed them off as "East and West India _particular_." - -The sweet wines of Xeres are, perhaps, the finest in the world. That -known as _Pajarete_ is the most abundantly made, but the _Pedro Ximenes_ -is of superior flavour. There is also a sweet wine flavoured with -cherries, which is very delicious. - -The light dry Sherries are also very pleasant in their pure state, but -they require to be mixed with brandy and other wines, to keep long, or -to ship for the foreign market. Those, therefore, who purchase _cheap -Sherry_ in England may be assured that it has become a _light_ wine -since its departure from Spain. - -The number of _winehouses_ at Xeres is quite extraordinary. Of these, as -many, I think, as five-and-twenty export almost exclusively to England. -The merchants are extremely hospitable; they live in very good style, -and are particularly choice of the wines that appear at their tables. - -The Spanish antiquaries have by no means settled to their satisfaction -what Roman city stood on the site of modern Xeres. The common opinion -seems to be, that it occupies the place of _Asta Regia_, mentioned by -Pliny as one of the towns within the marshes of the Guadalquivir. -Florez, however, labours to prove that it agrees better with _Asido_. -But I do not think his arguments get over the difficulty arising from -the expression "_in mediterraneo_," applied to that city; which agrees -better with _Medina Sidonia_ than Xeres, the latter being close upon the -flats of the Guadalquivir, whereas the other is decidedly _inland_ with -reference to them. - -The medals of Asido, Florez describes as having sometimes a bull, and at -others a "fish of the _tunny_ kind," upon them. Now this latter emblem -is, most certainly, more applicable to Medina Sidonia than Xeres, since -no fish of the "tunny kind" ever could have frequented the shallow muddy -stream of the Guadalete. And though the city of Medina Sidonia is -situated on the summit of a high hill, sixteen miles from the sea, yet -we may take it for granted that its jurisdiction extended as far as the -coast, to the eastward of the Isla de Leon; since it does not appear -that any town of note intervened between Cadiz and Besaro, or Besippone. - -The same author derives the name Xeres from the Persian _Zeiraz_ -(Schiras); supposing it may have been so called from that having been -the country of the Moslem chief who captured Regia. - -The word assimilates with our mode of pronouncing the name of the -existing town; and the wine of Schiraz was not less esteemed of old -amongst the easterns, than Sherry is now by us, and appears ever to have -been by the ancients; for tradition ascribes to Bacchus the foundation -of Nebrissa, in the vicinity of Xeres. May not, therefore, the celebrity -of its vineyards have led the Arabs to call the town Schiraz, or Xeres, -rather than the country of the chief who conquered it? - -Xeres was captured from the Moors by San Fernando, and, becoming -thenceforth one of the bulwarks of the Christian frontier, changed its -name from _Xeres Sidonia_ to _Xeres de la Frontera_, by which it -continues to be distinguished from others. - -The Guadalete does not approach within a mile and a half of Xeres. This -river is the Chryssus of the Romans; and the Spaniards, ever prone to -boast of the ancient celebrity of their country, maintain it to be the -mythological Lethe of yet more remote times. On its right bank (about -three miles on the road to Medina Sidonia) stands a Carthusian convent -of some note. The pious founders of this edifice--as indeed was their -wont--located themselves in a most enviable situation. The "_elisios -xerexanos prados_" were spread out before them, covered with fat beeves, -and herds of high caste horses, belonging to the order. The perfume of -the surrounding orange-groves penetrated to the innermost recesses of -this house of prayer and penance. The juice of the luscious grape, and -the oil of the purple olives that grew upon the sunny bank whereon it -stands, found their way, with as little obstruction, into its cells and -cellars. But still, with this Canaan in their possession, these austere -disciples of St. Bruno affected to despise the things of this world, and -held not communion with their fellow-creatures! - -The edifice is fast falling to decay; the brotherhood is reduced to a -score of decrepit old men; and--what alone is to be regretted--the -celebrated breed of horses has become extinct. - -The Guadalete winds through the valley overlooked by the _Cartuja_,[39] -and is crossed by a stone bridge of five arches. On gaining the southern -bank of the river, roads branch off in all directions. That to the -left--keeping up the valley--proceeds to Paterna (sixteen miles from -Xeres), and _Alcala de los Gazules_ (twenty-five miles). Another, -continuing straight on, goes to Medina Sidonia (eighteen miles); and a -third, that presents itself to the right, is directed across the country -to Chiclana, reducing the distance to that place from twenty-six miles -(by the post-road) to sixteen. - -About four miles below the bridge are some store-houses, a wharf, and -ferry, called _El Portal_, from whence the river is navigable to Port -St. Mary's. _El Portal_ may be considered the port of Xeres, to which -place (distant about three miles) there is a good wheel-road. - -The fatal battle which gave Spain up to the dominion of the Saracens -(A.D. 714) was fought on the southern bank of the Guadalete, about five -miles from Xeres, on the road to Paterna. The robes and "horned helmet" -of Roderick, which he is supposed to have thrown off to facilitate his -escape, were found on the bank of the river, where a small chapel, -dedicated to Our Lady of _Leyna_, now stands. The sanguinary fight is -stated--with the customary Spanish exaggeration--to have lasted eight -days! and then only to have been decided in favour of the Mohammedans by -treason. - -But however much we may admire the valour displayed by the Gothic -monarch, in thus obstinately defending his crown, yet the rashness he -was guilty of, in drawing up his forces on such a field (in a country -abounding in strong positions, where the enemy's superiority of numbers -would not have availed them), proves him to have been as little fitted -to command an army as to govern a kingdom. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - CHOICE OF ROADS TO SEVILLE--BY LEBRIJA--MIRAGE--THE MARISMA--POST - ROAD--CROSS ROAD BY LAS CABEZAS AND LOS PALACIOS--DIFFICULTY OF - RECONCILING ANY OF THESE ROUTES WITH THAT OF THE ROMAN - ITINERARY--SEVILLE--GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY--THE - ALAMEDA--DISPLAY OF CARRIAGES--ELEVATION OF THE HOST--PUBLIC - BUILDINGS--THE CATHEDRAL--LONJA--AMERICAN ARCHIVES--ALCAZAR--CASA - PILATA--ROYAL SNUFF MANUFACTORY--CANNON FOUNDRY--CAPUCHIN - CONVENT--MURILLO--THEATRE OF SEVILLE--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STATE OF - THE NATIONAL DRAMA--MORATIN--THE BOLERO--SPANISH DANCING--THE - SPANIARDS NOT A MUSICAL PEOPLE. - - -The traveller who journeys on horseback has the choice of several roads -between Xeres and Seville. The shortest is by the marshes of the -Guadalquivir, visiting only one town, Lebrija, in the whole distance of -eleven leagues. The longest is the post route, or _arrecife_, which -makes a very wide circuit by Utrera and Alcala de Guadaira, to avoid the -swampy country bordering the river. From this latter road several others -diverge to the left, cutting off various segments of the arc it -describes; and in summer these routes are even better than the highway -itself, though heavy and much intersected by torrents in winter. - -On the first-named or shortest road, the town of Lebrija alone calls for -observation. It is about fifteen miles from Xeres, and stands on the -side of a slightly-marked mound, that stretches some little way into the -wide-spreading plain of the Guadalquivir. The knoll is covered with the -extensive ruins of a castle--a joint work of Romans and Moors--which -during the late war was put into a defensible state by the French. Most -writers agree in placing here the Roman city of Nebrissa;[40] in which -name that of the modern town may readily be distinguished. It is distant -about five miles from the Guadalquivir, and contains three convents, and -a population of 4,000 souls. The Posada is excellent. - -The country from Xeres to Lebrija presents an undulated surface, which -is clothed with vines and olives; but thenceforth the banks of the -"_olivifero Boetis_" are devoted entirely to pasture, and the road is -most uninterestingly flat: so flat, indeed, that there is scarcely a -rise in the whole twenty-eight miles from Lebrija to Seville. It is not -passable in winter, and but one wretched hovel, called the _Venta del -Peleon_, offers itself as a resting-place. The river winds occasionally -close up to the side of the road, and from time to time a barge or -passage boat, gliding along its smooth surface, breaks the wearisome -monotony of the scene; but in general the tortuous stream wanders to a -distance of several miles from the road, and is altogether lost to the -sight in an apparently interminable plain, that stretches to the -westward. - -The misty vapour, or _mirage_, which rises from and hangs over the low -land bordering the river, produces singular deceptions; at times giving -the whole face of the country in advance the semblance of a vast lake; -at others, magnifying distant objects in a most extraordinary manner. On -one occasion, we were surprised to see what had every appearance of -being a large town rise up suddenly before us; and it was only when -arrived within a few hundred yards of the objects we had taken for -churches and houses, that we became convinced they were but a drove of -oxen. These imaginary oxen proved in the end, however, to be only a -flock of sheep. The _Marisma_,[41] for such is the name given to this -low ground, affords pasturage for immense herds of cattle of all sorts, -and the herbage is so fine as to lead one to wonder what becomes of all -the _fat_ beef and mutton in Spain. - -The post road from Xeres to Seville, as I have already mentioned, is -very circuitous, increasing the distance from forty-three to fifty-six -miles--reckoned fifteen and a half post leagues. - -For the first thirteen miles, that is, to the post house of _La Casa -real del Cuervo_, the road traverses a country rich in corn and olives, -but skirting for some considerable distance the western limits of a vast -heath, called the _llanura de Caulina_, whereon even goats have -difficulty in finding sustenance. The first league of the road is -perfectly level, the rest hilly. A little beyond the post house of El -Cuervo, a road strikes off to the left to Lebrija. The _arrecife_, -proceeding on towards Utrera, crosses numerous gulleys by which the -winter torrents are led down from the side of the huge _Sierra -Gibalbin_, which, here raising its head on the right, stretches to the -north for a mile or two, keeping parallel to the road, and then again -sinks to the plain. This passed, the remainder of the road to Utrera is -conducted along what may be termed the brow of a wide tract of low table -land, which, extending to the foot of the distant _Serrania de Ronda_ on -the right, breaks in the opposite direction into innumerable -ramifications, towards the plain of the Guadalquivir. - -In the entire distance to Utrera, (twenty-four miles from _El Cuervo_) -there is not a single village on the road, and but very few farms or -even cottages scattered along it. It is plentifully furnished with -bridges for crossing the various _barrancas_[42] that drain the mountain -ravines in the winter, and by means of these bridges the chaussee is -kept nearly on a dead level throughout. About midway there is another -post house. This road is so perfectly uninteresting, that, availing -myself of the earliest opportunity of quitting it and proceeding to -Seville by a more direct, if not a more diversified route, I will strike -into a well-beaten track that presents itself, edging away to the left, -about three miles beyond _El Cuervo_, and is directed on Las Cabezas de -San Juan, distant about six miles from the post road. - -Las Cabezas de San Juan is a wretched little village, which inscriptions -found in its vicinity have decided to be the _Ugia_[43] of the Romans. -It is situated on a knoll, commanding an extensive view over the -circumjacent flat country, and some years since contained a population -of a thousand or twelve hundred souls. But, having been the hotbed -wherein Riego's conspiracy was brought to unnatural maturity, it was -razed to the ground during the short contest that restored Ferdinand to -a despotic throne, and "all its pleasant things laid waste." - -From hence to _Los Palacios_ is ten miles. The country is flat, and but -partially cultivated. A short league before reaching _Los Palacios_, a -long ruined bridge, called _El Alcantarilla_, is seen at a little -distance off the road on the right. In the time of Swinburne, this -bridge appears to have been passable, and an inscription was then -sufficiently perfect to announce its Roman origin. It was probably -raised to carry a road from Lebrija to Utrera across a marshy tract, -which in winter is apt to be flooded by the _Salado de Moron_; or -perhaps the road over it may have been directed on _Dos Hermanos_, which -is known to be the Roman town of Orippo. - -Los Palacios is a clean compact village, of about 1,000 inhabitants. A -plain extends for many miles on all sides of it, but a slight, perhaps -artificial, mound rises slightly above the general level of the place on -its eastern side, and bears the weight of its ruined castle: the walls -of the village itself are also fast crumbling to the dust. The inns are -miserable; but a Spanish nobleman, with whom we had become acquainted at -Xeres, had obligingly furnished us with a letter of introduction to a -gentleman of the place, who entertained us most hospitably, and very -reluctantly--for he wished much to detain us--gave orders to the _duena_ -of his household to have the usual breakfast of chocolate and bread -fried in lard prepared for us by daybreak on the following morning. - -From Los Palacios to Seville the distance is reckoned five "_leguas -regulares_," but it is barely fifteen miles. The country to the north of -the village is very fruitful, and becomes hilly as one proceeds. At -about nine miles there is a solitary venta, on the margin of a stream -that comes down from _Dos Hermanos_; which village is situated about a -league off on the right. - -It is a matter of some little difficulty to make any of the roads -between Cadiz and Seville (that is, from Port St. Mary's onwards) agree -with the route laid down in the Itinerary of Antoninus. The distance of -the _Portus Gaditanus_ from _Hispalis_ is therein stated to be -seventy-six Roman miles,[44] or, according to Florez, sixty-eight;[45] -which miles, if computed to contain eight _Olympic_ stadia each, are -equal to seventy, and sixty-three British statute miles respectively; -the actual distance from Puerto Santa Maria to Seville being, by the -chaussee, sixty-six miles; by Lebrija and the marshes, fifty-two. - -On comparing these distances, therefore, one would naturally be led to -suppose that the Roman military way followed the circuitous line of the -existent chaussee, but that monuments and inscriptions, which have been -found at Las Cabezas de St. Juan and Dos Hermanos, prove those places -to be the towns of _Ugia_ and _Orippo_, mentioned in the Itinerary as -lying upon the road. We are under the necessity, therefore, of adopting -a line which reduces the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ to -_Hispalis_ far below even that given by Florez. - -The only way of meeting all these difficulties and premises seems to be -by taking a smaller stadium than the _Olympic_. That of 666-2/3 to a -degree of the meridian[46] I have generally found to agree well with the -actual distances of places in Spain, and it is a scale which we are -warranted in adopting, since it is sometimes used by Strabo on the -authority of Eratosthenes, and Pliny admits that no two persons ever -agreed in the Roman measures. - -Taking this scale, therefore (though a yet smaller would agree better), -I fix the first station, _Hasta_, at a small table hill, even now called -by the Spaniards _La Mesa de Asta_, lying N.N.W. of Xeres;[47] making -the distance from the _Portus Gaditanus_ sixteen miles, as in the -Itinerary, instead of eight, as altered by Florez: a number, by the -way, which scarcely agrees better with the actual distance from Port St. -Mary's to Xeres--at which latter place he fixes Hasta--than the sixteen -miles of the original. - -The next place mentioned in the Itinerary is _Ugia_; determined, as has -been already stated, to have stood where Las Cabezas de San Juan is now -situated; and the distance from the _Mesa de Asta_ to this place, -passing through _Nebrissa_ (Lebrija--omitted in the Itinerary, as not -being a convenient halting-place for the troops), agrees tolerably well -with that specified, viz., twenty-seven Roman miles. The remaining -distances, viz., twenty-four miles to _Orippo_ (Dos Hermanos), and nine -to _Hispalis_ (Seville), agree yet better, though still somewhat below -the scale I have adopted. - -The appearance of Seville, approaching it on the side of the _Marisma_, -is by no means imposing. Stretching as the city does along the bank of -the Guadalquivir, its least diameter meets the view; and, from its -standing on a perfect flat, the walls by which it is encircled conceal -the most part of the houses, and take off from the height of the hundred -spires of its churches--the lofty _Giralda_ being the only conspicuous -object that presents itself above them. - -The wide avenue which, after crossing the river _Guadaira_, leads up to -the city gate, is, however, prepossessing; a spacious botanical garden -is on the left hand, and, in advance of the city walls, are the -Amphitheatre, the Royal Snuff Manufactory, and several other handsome -public buildings. - -Seville is generally considered,--at all events by its inhabitants,--the -largest city of Spain. It is of an oval shape, two miles long, and one -and a quarter broad; and, washed by the Guadalquivir on the eastern -side, is enclosed on the others by a patched-up embattled wall, the work -of all ages and nations. - -The city is tolerably free from suburbs, excepting at the Carmona and -_Rosario_ gates on its western side; but numerous extramural convents, -hospitals, barracks, and other public edifices, are scattered about in -different directions, which, with the town of Triana, on the opposite -bank of the river, materially increase the size of the place, and swell -the amount of its population to at least 100,000 souls. - -Seville cannot be called a handsome city, for it contains but one -tolerable street; the houses, however, are lofty, and generally well -built, the shops good, and the lamps within sight of each other, which -is not usually the case in Spanish towns. Most of the houses in the -principal thoroughfares are built with an edging of flat roof -overlooking the street. This part of the house is called the _Azotea_, -and, with the lower orders, serves the manifold purposes of a dormitory -in summer, a place for washing and drying clothes in winter, and a -place of assignation at all seasons. - -In hot weather awnings are spread from these _azoteas_ across the -streets, rendering them delightfully cool and shady; the canvass -covering, fanned by the breeze, sending down a refreshing air, whilst it -serves at the same time as a shelter from the sun. Even in the most -sultry days of summer, I have never found the streets of Seville -_impracticable_. - -There are several spacious squares in various parts of the city; in the -largest, distinguished by the extraordinary, though, perhaps, not -_unsuitable_ name of _La Plaza de la Incarnacion_, the market is held. -This is abundantly supplied with bread, meat, fish, poultry, and all -sorts of vegetables and fruits, and is, perhaps, the cheapest in -Andalusia; it certainly is the cleanest. - -The _Alamedas_, of which there are two, are equally as well taken care -of as the market, though in point of beauty they are not quite deserving -of the praise which has been bestowed upon them. One is in the interior -of the city, and becomes only a place of general resort when the weather -is unsettled. The other more commonly frequented walk is between the -walls of the town and the Guadalquivir, extending nearly a mile along -the bank of the river, from the _Torre del Oro_ to the bridge of boats -communicating with Triana. It is well sheltered with trees, and -furnished with seats, and is indeed a most delightful and amusing -promenade, being nightly crowded with all descriptions of people, from -the grandee of the first class to the goatskin clad swineherd, who -visits the city for a _sombrero_ of the _ultima moda_, or a fresh supply -of _bacallao_. - -The carriage drive round the walk is generally thronged with equipages -of all sorts and ages, any one of which, shown as a _spectacle_ in -England, would most assuredly make the exhibitor's fortune. The _blazon_ -on the pannels, and venerable cocked hats and laced coats of the drivers -and attendants, bespeak them, nevertheless, to belong to _sons of -somebody_; and the wives and daughters of somebody seated therein, seem -not a little proud of possessing these indubitable proofs of the -antiquity of their houses. Few of these distinguished personages, -however, excepting such as labour under the infliction of gout, -rheumatism, or the indelible marks of old age, are satisfied to remain -quiet spectators of the gay scene; but, after driving once or twice -round the _paseo_ to see _who_ has arrived, alight, and join the flutter -of their fans, and, with grief I say it, their loud laugh and -conversation to the already over-powering din of the "promiscuous -multitude." - -This scene of gaiety is prolonged until long after the sun has ceased -to gild the mirror-like surface of the Guadalquivir. The walk, indeed, -is still in its most fashionable state of throng, when a tinkling bell, -announcing the elevation of the Host, marks the concluding ceremony of -the vesper service in a neighbouring church. At this signal the motley -crowd appears as if touched by the wand of an enchanter. Each devout -Romanist either reverentially bends the knee, or stands statue-like on -the spot where the homage-commanding sound first reached the ear. The -men take off their hats--the ladies drop their fans. The coachmen check -their hacks--the hacks hang down their heads--not a whisper is heard, -not an eye is raised. The bell sounds a second time, and animation -returns, the breast is marked with repeated crosses, the dust brushed -off the knees, "_conques_" innumerable take up the interrupted -conversation, and once more - - "Soft eyes look love to eyes which speak again." - -So ludicrously observant are the Spaniards of this ceremony, that, on -the ringing of the bell, I once remarked a water-carrier stop in the -midst of his sonorous cry, "_A...._" and devoutly uncovering his head, -and crossing himself, wait until the second tinkle permitted him again -to open his mouth; when, with most comical gravity, he finished the -wanting syllable "_gua!_ _Agua fres--ca!_" - -The Guadalquivir is about 200 yards wide at Seville, where it forms a -kind of basin, and is navigable for vessels of 150 tons burthen. It is -so liable to be swollen by the freshes poured down from the mountains in -the upper part of its course, that a permanent bridge has never been -attempted; and the banks are so low, that the floods have frequently -reached to the very gates of the city. The influence of the tide is felt -some little distance above Seville, rendering the water of the river -unfit for general purposes. The water of the wells, on the other hand, -is considered unwholesome, so that the city is, in a great measure, -dependent for its supply of this most necessary article on an aqueduct, -that brings a stream from _Alcala de Guadaira_, a distance of about nine -miles. - -The populous town of Triana is still worse off than Seville, for, as the -expedient of a leather pipe has not yet been thought of, the "essential -fluid" has to be carried across the river on men's or asses' backs, -rendering it a most expensive article of consumption; a circumstance -that accounts, in a great measure, for the very Egyptian complexion of -the inhabitants. - -The public buildings of Seville fully entitle the city to its boasted -title of the Western Capital of Spain. It contains no less than sixty -convents and nunneries, besides numerous other religious establishments -and hospitals. The Archiepiscopal Church is the largest in Spain,[48] -its dimensions being 450 feet by 260; and it is one of the most splendid -piles in the universe. The architecture of the exterior is heavy and -tasteless, so that one is but little prepared for the striking change -which meets the eye on drawing aside the ponderous leathern curtain that -closes the portal, and entering the vast vaulted interior. - -It is built in the gothic style, not of a florid kind, however, but -simple, aerial, and imposing. The colour of the free stone used in its -construction is a subdued white; the pavement is laid in squares of -black and white marble, and the stained glass windows, which are of -extreme beauty, shed a warm, variegated glow throughout the building, -that produces an effect well suited to its character. Indeed, no -cathedral that I have any where seen either presents a more striking -coup d'oeil, or draws forth, in a greater degree, that instinctive -feeling of devotion implanted in the human breast. The walls, too, are -not so disfigured with tawdry chapels, as those of most Roman Catholic -churches, and the few paintings with which they are decorated are _chef -d'oeuvres_ of the best Spanish masters. - -One modern painting has, however, been admitted to the collection, -rather, I should think, out of compliment to the ladies of Seville, than -on account of its own merit. It represents two maidens of this saintly -city, who, "_mucho tiempo hay_,"[49] to use our conductor's expression, -having been accused of some heretical practices, were exposed to be -devoured by a ferocious lion. The gallant sovereign of the woods and -forests, instead, however, of making a meal of these tempting morsels of -human flesh and imagined frailty, "_se echo a sus pies_," and began -caressing them after his feline fashion, to the great astonishment of -all beholders! This miraculous want of appetite on the part of the lion, -making the innocence of the damsels evident, led, of course, to their -liberation, and their names are now enrolled upon the long list of -saints of Seville. - -The tower of the cathedral, commonly called _La Giralda_, from a -colossal statue of _Faith_, at its summit, which, with strange -inconsistency of character, wheels about at every change of wind, is by -no means a handsome structure. It was built by the Moors, about 250 -years before the city was captured by San Fernando, and originally was -only 280 feet in height; but a belfry has since been added, which makes -it altogether 364 feet high. The tower is fifty feet square, and the -ascent is effected by an inclined plane, by means of which, some queen -of Spain is rumoured to have ridden on horseback to the gallery under -the belfry. - -The view from the summit of the tower fully repays one, even for the -labour of ascending it on foot, and I am not quite sure but that the -inclined plane rather increases than lessens the fatigue of mounting. -From hence alone can a correct idea be formed of the size and splendour -of Seville. The eye, from this elevation, embraces the whole extent of -the city, its long narrow streets, wide circuit of walls, its gateways, -magnificent public buildings, and spacious plazas, its verdant -orangeries, and its house-top flower-gardens. Beyond the busy city, a -fruitful plain extends for several miles in every direction; on one side -bearing luxuriant crops of corn and olives, on the other, giving pasture -to countless herds of cattle; the lovely Guadalquivir winding through -and fertilizing the whole. - -The Archiepiscopal palace occupies one side of a small square, that is -immediately under the _Giralda_; the facade of this building is -handsome, but we had not an opportunity of seeing the interior, as its -worthy occupier was unwell. Near the cathedral, but on the opposite side -to the Archbishop's residence, is the _Lonja_; a splendid edifice, which -(as the name implies) was originally built for an exchange. But, though -the lower suites of apartments are still set apart for the use of the -merchants, the building is so inconveniently situated, that no -commercial business is transacted there, and the whole of the upper -story has been fitted up as a repository for the "American archives." -These records are most voluminous, and are preserved with as much care, -and ticketed with as great regularity, as if Spain shortly intended to -resume the sovereignty over her former vast transatlantic possessions. - -As a mark of especial favour, the tip of my little finger was permitted -to rest upon the edge of the first letter written from the _other -world_; the keeper of the archives requesting me, at the same time, not -to press too hard upon the valuable MS., and assuring us, that most -persons were obliged to be satisfied with looking at the precious -document bearing the signature of the adventurous Columbus, in its glass -case. - -The whole of the shelves, drawers, &c., are of cedar; a wood which has -the property of preserving the papers committed to their charge from all -descriptions of insects. The floors are laid in chequers of red and blue -marble, and the grand staircase is composed of the same, which is highly -polished and remarkably handsome. One of the apartments of the vast -quadrangle contains two original paintings of Columbus and Hernan -Cortes. - -A little removed from the _Lonja_, is the _Alcazar_, or Royal Palace. -This is kept up in a kind of half-dress state, and has a governor -appointed to its peculiar charge, who usually resides within its -precincts. It is built in the Moorish style, and is generally supposed -to have been the work of Moorish hands, though raised only--so at least -a Gothic inscription on its walls is said to state--by "the puissant -King of Castile and Leon, Don Pedro." - -There is probably some little exaggeration in this, and, in point of -fact, perhaps, the mighty monarch only repaired and added to the palace -of the Moorish kings, which the neglect of a hundred years had, in his -time, rendered uninhabitable. It is a very inferior piece of workmanship -to the Alhambra, but, nevertheless, contains much to admire, -particularly the ceilings of the apartments (of which there are upwards -of seventy), and the walls of one of the courts. - -The different towers command very fine views over the city and adjacent -country, and the gardens are delightful, though of but small extent. The -walks are laid with tiles, between which little tubes are introduced -vertically, that communicate with waterpipes underneath, and, by merely -turning a screw, the whole of the valves of these tubes are -simultaneously opened, and each shoots forth a diminutive stream of -water. This plan was adopted, as being an improvement on the tedious -method usually practised in watering gardens. It affords the facetiously -disposed a glorious opportunity of inflicting a practical joke upon -unwary visiters to the Alcazar; who, conducted to the garden, and then -and there seduced, out of mere politeness, to join in the complaint -expressed of a want of rain, suddenly find themselves _over_ a heavy -shower, and under the necessity of laughing at a piece of wit from which -there is no possibility of escape. - -The _Casa Pilata_ is another of the sights of Seville. It is a private -house, said to be built on the exact model of that of the Roman governor -of Jerusalem. It is fitted up with much taste, but its chief beauty -consists in a profusion of glazed tiles, which give it actual coolness, -as well as a refreshing look. - -Most of the other subjects worthy of the traveller's notice are situated -without the walls of the city. The first in order, issuing from the -Xeres gate, is the _Plaza de los Toros_, or amphitheatre, an immense -circus, one half built of stone, and the other half of wood, and capable -of accommodating 14,000 persons. The next remarkable object is the -_Royal Tobacco Manufactory_, (the term seems rather absurd to English -ears,) a huge edifice, so strongly built, and jealously defended by -walls and ditches, as to appear rather a detached fort, or citadel, -raised to overawe the turbulent city, than an establishment for -peacefully grinding tobacco leaves into snuff, and rolling them into -cigars. The manufactory employs 5000 persons, and of this number 2600 -are occupied solely in making cigars. But, as I have elsewhere shown, -even with the assistance of the Royal Manufactory lately established at -Malaga, the supply of _lawful_ cigars is not equal to one-tenth part of -the consumption of the country. - -The demand for snuff may probably be fully met by the Royal Manufactory; -for the Spaniards are not great consumers of tobacco through the medium -of the nose; and most of the snuffs prepared at Seville are extremely -pungent, so that "a little goes a great way." There is a coarse kind, -however, called, I think, "Spanish bran," which is much esteemed by -_connoisseurs_. - -The Royal Cannon Foundry is in the vicinity of the Tobacco Manufactory, -and though this establishment for furnishing the means of consuming -powder is not in such activity as its neighbour employed in supplying -food for smoke, yet it is in equally good order, and, on the whole, is a -very creditable national establishment. The brass pieces made here are -remarkably handsome, and very correctly bored, but they want the -lightness and finish of our guns--qualities in which English artillery -excels all others. Two of the "monster mortars," cast by the French for -the siege of Cadiz, are still preserved here. - -The Cavalry Barracks, Royal Saltpetre Manufactory, Military Hospital, -and various other edifices, planned on a scale proportioned to Spain's -_former_ greatness, together with numerous convents, equally -disproportioned to her present wants, follow in rapid succession in -completing the circuit of the walls. The most interesting amongst the -religious houses is a convent of Capuchins, situated near the Cordoba -gate. It contains twenty-five splendid paintings by Murillo, "any one of -which," as a modern writer has justly remarked, "would suffice to render -a man immortal." - -Murillo was certainly a perfect master of his art. His style is -peculiar, and in his early productions there is a coldness and formality -that partake of the school of Velasquez; but the works of his maturer -age are distinguished by a boldness of outline, a gracefulness of -grouping, and a depth and softness of colouring, which entitle him to -rank with Rubens and Correggio. - -The paintings of Murillo, though met with in all the best collections of -Europe, where they take their place amongst the works of the first -masters, are, nevertheless, valued by foreigners rather on account of -their rarity than of their execution. The fact is, those of his -paintings which have left Spain are nearly all devoted to the same -subject--the Madonna and Child; and, even in that, offer but little -variety either in the disposition, or in the colouring of the figures. -The Spanish artist is, consequently, accused of want of genius and -self-plagiarism. Nor does Murillo receive due credit for the pains he -took in finishing his paintings; for, amongst those of his works which -have found their way into foreign collections, there are few which have -not received more or less damage, either in the transport from Spain, or -by subsequent neglect; and, in many instances, the attempts made to -restore them by cleaning or retouching have inflicted a yet more severe -injury upon them. - -Those persons only, therefore, who have visited Spain, and, above all, -Murillo's native city--Seville--can fully appreciate the merits of that -wonderful artist. The vast number of master-pieces which he has there -left behind him, and the variety of subjects they embrace, sufficiently -prove, however, that, whilst in versatility of talent he has been -equalled by few, in point of _industry_ he almost stands without a -rival. - -Besides the twenty-five paintings in the Capuchin convent, already -noticed, the _Hospital de la Caridad_ contains several of Murillo's -master-pieces; two, in particular, are deserving of notice--the subjects -are, the miracle of the loaves and fishes, and Moses striking the rock. -The great size of these two paintings saved them from a journey to -Paris, but the French, in their zeal for the encouragement of the fine -arts, stripped the chapel of all the other works of Murillo that -enriched it--only a few of which were restored at the peace of 1815. - -Other paintings of the Spanish Rafael are to be found in the various -churches of Seville, and every private collector (of whom the city -contains many,) prides himself on being the possessor of at least one -_original_ of his illustrious fellow-citizen. - -The theatre of Seville has ever held a comparatively distinguished place -in the dramatic annals of Spain; and, lamentable as is the condition to -which the national stage has been reduced, the capital of Andalusia may -still be considered as one of the most _playgoing_ places in the -kingdom. This may, perhaps, partly be accounted for by the number of -dramatic authors to whom the city has given birth, partly by the -peculiar disposition of the inhabitants of the province, who are deeper -tinged with romance, and have more imagination than the rest of the -natives of the Peninsula. - -The deplorable atrophy under which the drama has of late years been -languishing in every part of Europe[50] had, aided by various -predisposing circumstances, long been undermining the at no-time very -robust constitution of the Spanish theatre; which, like a condemned -criminal, existed only from day to day, at the will and pleasure of a -despotic sovereign; and had, moreover, constantly to combat the -hostility of the priesthood: a bigoted race, prone at all times to -discourage an art, which, by enlarging the understandings of the -community, tended to diminish the respect with which their own profane -melo-dramatic mysteries were regarded. The priests, in fact, have always -been, and ever will be, averse to their flock being fleeced by any other -shears than their own. - -Considering, therefore, the obstacles which the Spanish theatre has had -to contend against, obstacles which were yet more formidable in that -country in times past than they are at the present day, it cannot but be -admitted that the drama was cultivated in Spain with a degree of success -which could little have been expected. - -Our own early dramatists, indeed, drew largely from the prolific sources -opened by Lope de Vega, Calderon, and other Spanish writers of the -sixteenth century; and, perhaps, to the example set by those authors is -our stage indebted for its release from the thraldom in which others -are yet held, by a preposterous, though _classic_, adherence to the -preservation of the unities. - -The drama (in the strict sense of the term) never, however, became a -popular amusement with the Spaniards generally. The legal disabilities -imposed upon the performers by the intrigues of the Romish church -brought the profession of an actor into disrepute, and, as a natural -consequence, checked the progress of the histrionic art. The stage had -no door opening to preferment, and the knight of the buskin (to whom, by -the way, the _Don_ was interdicted), though endowed with the talents of -a Talma or a Kemble, of a Liston or a Potier, ranked below the lowest of -the train of bullfighters, and could never expect to amass a fortune, or -hope to be considered otherwise than as a "diverting vagabond." A -Spanish actress was yet more discouragingly circumstanced, as, however -irreproachable her character, she held only the same grade in society as -the frail Ciprian whose beauty gained her livelihood. - -Labouring under such disadvantages, it is not surprising, therefore, -that Thalia and Euterpe should eventually have been driven from the -Spanish stage, and a licentious monster--the illegitimate offspring of -Comus and Impudicitia--have been crowned with the palm-wreath snatched -from the brows of the immortal Parnassides. - -The modern Spanish dramatic authors--if it be not profanation so to call -them--pandering to the vitiated taste of the day, indulge in all the -licence of Aristophanes, without varnishing their obscenities with the -brilliancy of his wit. They write, in fact, for auditors, who, whilst -endowed with a quick perception of the ridiculous, are too ignorant to -discriminate between right and wrong, and cannot perceive where -legitimate satire ends, and libertinism commences; who, possessing a -vast stock of native wit, inherit with it a coarse, degenerate taste. -The human frailties of the monastic orders are, consequently, the -favourite subjects now held up to ridicule on the stage, as if to prove -the truth of Voltaire's lines, - - _"Les pretres ne sont point ce qu'un vain peuple pense, - _Notre credulite fait toute leur science_;"_ - -and no modern _saynete_[51] is considered perfect, unless some member of -their church is brought forward to serve as a recipient for the ribald -jokes of an Andalusian _majo_, or to become the amatory dupe of an -intriguing _graciosa_. - -These pieces are not suffered to appear in print; or rather, I should -say, perhaps, would not _sell_ if they were printed, for the press of -the day has far exceeded the bounds of decorum in giving light to many -of the somewhat less objectionable productions of _Sotomayor_, -_Comella_, and other prolific scribblers of Vaudevilles. The only modern -dramatic writers who have been at all successful in obtaining public -favour on worthier grounds, are _Iriate_, _Martinez de la Rosa_, and -_Moratin_, but their writings are by no means numerous. - -The plays of the last-named (who is considered the Terence of Spain) are -always well received at Seville, where the dramatic taste is somewhat -more refined than in the minor provincial towns. They are full of -incident, without being encumbered with plot, like those of the old -Spanish school; and the dialogue is natural and sprightly, without -falling into licentiousness or vulgarity. This author's translation of -Shakspeare's Hamlet is lamentably weak, however, for his language is not -sufficiently elevated for tragedy. To Moliere he has done more justice. - -The Spanish language is remarkably well adapted to the stage, being not -less melodious than emphatic and dignified; and there is a raciness -about it well suited to comedy, though, on the whole, I should say, it -is better adapted for tragedy. The national taste is, however, in favour -of comedy, which, besides being more congenial to the character of the -people, speaks more intelligibly to their uncultivated understandings. -And, indeed, it must be confessed, that but for the infinite superiority -of the language, the long speeches of the heroes of Spanish tragedy -would be yet more wearying to listen to, than even the jingling, rhymed -declamations of the French drama. - -It is not surprising, therefore, that the impatient _Andaluzes_,--whose -whole thoughts are bent upon the coming Bolero and laughter-causing -farce,--should complain of the interminable "_platicas importunas_" of -their tragedies, and even of their _serious_ comedies; especially since -they are delivered in a diction which to the lower orders is almost -unintelligible, the dialogue being generally carried on in the second -person plural, _vos_: a style which is never now heard in common -parlance, and is, therefore, quite unnatural to them. - -I will, however, draw the curtain upon Spanish tragedy, and bring the -graceful _Baylarinas_ upon the stage; at the first click of whose -castanets, whilst even yet behind the scenes, every bright eye sparkles -with animation, and every tongue is silenced. - -The Bolero, which is the favourite national dance, admits of great -variety as well of figures as of movements, for it may be executed by -any number of persons, though two or four are generally preferred. It is -a purified kind of _Fandango_, and, when danced by Spaniards, is as -graceful and pleasing an exhibition as can be imagined. It is altogether -divested of those dervish-like gyrations, and other wonderful displays -of limbs and under-petticoats, that are so much the vogue on the boards -of London and Paris, and on which, in fact, the reputation of a -_Ballerina_ seems to depend. In Spain the taste in dancing has not yet -reached this pitch of refinement; for, even in the _Cachucha_, when the -dancer turns her back upon the spectators, a Spanish lady deems it -necessary to turn her face from the stage. - -The castanets, though furnishing but little to the entertainment in the -way of music, afford the performers the means of displaying their -figures to advantage; and are yet further useful, by giving employment -to the hands and arms; which, with most dancers, public as well as -private, are generally found to be very much in the way. - -There are other dances of a less _modest_ character than the _Bolero_, -which are performed at the minor theatres; but it may be said of Spanish -public dancing generally, that it is light, spirited, and _poetic_, and -admits of the display of considerable grace without being _indecent_. - -Although of all modern languages--that of dulcet Italy alone -excepted--the Spanish is the best adapted to song, yet the Spaniards -have little or no relish for musical entertainments. The truth is, they -are not a musical nation. In expressing this opinion, I am aware that I -declare war against a host of preconceived notions; but in proof of my -assertion I will ask, what country possesses so little national music as -Spain? Has a single _known_ opera ever been produced there? Is not her -church music all borrowed? Is not the trifling guitar the only -instrument the Spaniard is really master of? Is not the _Sostenuto_ -bellow of the _arriero_ almost the only approach to melody that the -peasant ever attempts? - -Spanish music consists of a few simple airs, which are probably -heir-looms of the Saracens; and a medley of _Boleros_, that may be -considered mere variations of one tune. Neither their vocal nor -instrumental performances ever reach beyond mediocrity, and in concert -they invariably sing and play _a faire casser la tete_. - -A fine climate and a gregarious disposition lead the peasantry to -assemble nightly, and amuse themselves by dancing and singing to the -monotonous thrumming of a cracked guitar; and this habit has earned for -the nation the character of being musical--a character to which the -Spaniards are little better entitled than the _Tom Tom_-loving black -_apprentices_ of our West India islands. - -There are exceptions to every rule, and I willingly admit that I have -heard an opera of Rossini very well performed by Spanish "_artists_." -But that they do not _pride themselves_ on being a musical nation is -evident from their always preferring Italian music to their own, though -they like to sing Spanish words to an Italian opera. - -The Theatre is a place of fashionable resort at Seville. It fills up a -vacuum between the Paseo and the Tertulia. And when the times are -sufficiently quiet to warrant the outlay, a sufficient sum is subscribed -to bribe a second-rate Italian company to expose their melodious throats -to the baneful influence of the sea breezes. The house is large and -rather tastily decorated, but so ill-shaped that, unless one is close to -the stage, not a word can be heard; and if there, the prompter's voice -completely drowns those of the performers. The fall of the curtain at -the conclusion of the _Bolero_ is generally the signal for the _beau -monde_ to retire, leaving the highly seasoned _Saynete_ to the enjoyment -of the "_gente baja y desreglada_."[52] - -This breaking up is not the least amusing part of the play. The -antediluvian carriages are again put in requisition; and now, besides -the cocked-hatted attendants, each vehicle is accompanied by two or more -torch-bearers on foot; so that the blaze of light on first issuing from -the Theatre is most dazzling and astounding,--astounding, because it is -only on walking into the gutter, or over a heap of filth in the first -cross street one has occasion to enter, that the want of lamps in these -minor avenues renders the utility of this extraordinary illumination -apparent. - -Each carriage, after "taking up," moves majestically off, its -torch-bearers running ahead to show the way, scattering long strings of -sparks, like comets' tails, amongst the humble pedestrians. - -The Tertulias commence after the families have supped at their -respective houses, that is to say, at about eleven o'clock; and are -generally kept up until a late hour. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - SOCIETY OF SEVILLE--SPANISH WOMEN--FAULTS OF EDUCATION--EVILS OF - EARLY MARRIAGES, AND MARRIAGES DE CONVENANCE--ENVIRONS OF - SEVILLE--TRIANA--SAN JUAN DE ALFARACHE--SANTI PONCE--RUINS OF - ITALICA--ITALICA NOT SO ANCIENT A CITY AS HISPALIS--YOUNG PIGS AND - THE MUSES--DEPARTURE FROM SEVILLE--THE MARQUES DE LAS - AMARILLAS--WEAKNESS, DECEIT, AND INJUSTICE OF THE LATE KING OF - SPAIN--ALCALA DE GUADAIRA--UTRERA--OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRATEGICAL - IMPORTANCE OF THIS TOWN--MORON--MILITARY OPERATIONS OF - RIEGO--APATHY OF THE SERRANOS DURING THE CIVIL WAR--OLBERA--REMARKS - ON THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS. - - -The society of Seville is divided into nearly as many circles as there -are degrees in the Mohammedans paradise. In former days, the bounds of -each were marked with _heraldic_ precision, and those of the innermost -were guarded as jealously from trespass as the precincts of a royal -forest, but of late years politics have materially injured the fences. -The fine edged bridge of _Sirat_ is no longer difficult of passage, and -a foreigner, in especial, provided some mufti of the Aristocracy but -holds out his hand to him, may reach the seventh heaven without the -slightest chance of stumbling over his pedigree. - -The English, above all other foreigners, are favourably received at -Seville, for the nobles of the South of Spain, not being so much under -court influence as those of the provinces lying nearer the capital, are -by no means distinguished for their love of _absolutism_. With some few, -indeed, the want of courtly sunshine has engendered excessive -liberalism; but the nobles of Andalusia generally may be considered as -favourably disposed towards a limited monarchy--that is, are of -moderate, or what they term _English_, politics. - -Of persons of such a political bias is the first circle of the society -of Seville composed, and it is, perhaps, in every respect, the best in -the kingdom. It is adorned by many men of highly cultivated talents, and -much theoretical information, who, with a sincere love of country at -their hearts, are yet not arrogantly blind to the faults of its former -and present institutions; and who, removed to a certain extent from the -baneful influence of a corrupt court, are proportionably free from the -demoralising vices which distinguish the society of the upper classes in -the capital. - -The ladies of the _exclusive_ circle are, it must needs be confessed, -deficient in education: but they possess great natural abilities, a -wonderful flow of language, and--excepting that they will pitch their -voices so high--peculiarly fascinating manners. - -The morals of Spanish women have usually been commented upon with -unsparing severity; it strikes me, however, that the moral _principle_ -is as strong in them as in the natives of any other country or climate. -The constancy of Spanish women, when once their affections have been -placed on any object, is, indeed, proverbial, and if they are but too -frequently faithless to the marriage vow, the source of corruption may -be traced, _first_, to the lamentable religious education they -receive--since the demoralizing doctrines of the efficacy of penance and -absolution in the remission of sins furnish them at all times with a -ready palliative; and, _secondly_, to the habit of contracting early -marriages, and, especially, _marriages de convenance_, by which, in -their anxiety to see their daughters well established, parents--and -above all Spanish parents--are apt to sacrifice, not only their -children's happiness, but their honour. - -Of all the evils under which Spanish society labours, this last is the -most serious as well as most apparent. A marriage of this kind, in nine -cases out of ten, tends to demorality. It is followed by immediate -neglect on the part of the husband, whose affections were already placed -elsewhere when he gave his hand at the altar; and is soon regarded by -the wife merely as a civil compact, to which the usages of society -oblige her to subscribe. With _her_, however, this state of things had -not been anticipated. The innate, all-powerful feeling, _love_, had, up -to this period, lain dormant within her breast--for in Spain, if the -extremely early age at which females marry did not of itself warrant -this supposition, the little intercourse which, under any circumstances, -an unmarried woman (of the upper classes of society) has with the world, -naturally leads to the conclusion that her affections had not previously -been engaged; she expects, therefore, to receive from her husband the -same boundless affection that her inexperienced heart is disposed to -bestow on him;--and what is the inevitable consequence? Disappointed in -her cherished hope of occupying the first place in her husband's -affections, her innocence is tarnished at the very outset, by thus -acquiring the knowledge of his turpitude; she turns from him with -disgust; and her better feelings, seared by jealousy and wounded pride, -seeks out some other object on whom to bestow the love slighted by him, -who pledged himself to cherish it. - -Thrown thus at an early age upon the world, without the least experience -in its ways, with strong passions to lead, and evil examples to seduce -her, is it surprising that a Spanish wife should wander from the path of -virtue, and that she should hold constancy to her lover more sacred than -fidelity to a husband who quietly submits to see another possess her -affections? - -The understanding once established, however, that jealousy is not to -disturb the menage, the parties live together with all the outward -appearances of mutual esteem, and inflict the history of their private -bickerings only upon their favoured friends. - -The Spaniards of all classes have great conversational powers, but even -those of the upper are sadly deficient in general information. Their -knowledge of other nations is picked up entirely from books, and those -books mostly old ones; for few works are now written in their own -language, and still fewer are translated from those of other countries; -so that what little knowledge of mankind they possess is of the last -century. - -Cards help out the conversation at the Tertulias of the first circle. -Dancing, forfeits, and other puerile games, are the resources of the -rest. Balls and suppers are _funciones_ reserved for great occasions, -and dinner parties are of equally rare occurrence. - -In the entertainments of the nobility, the French style prevails even to -the wines, but the national dish, the _olla_, generally serves as a -prelude, and may be considered the "_piece de resistance_" of the -interminable dinner. Toothpicks (!!) and coffee are handed round, and -the party breaks up, to seek in the _siesta_ renewed powers of -digestion. - -To those, however, who think exercise more conducive to health, the -environs of Seville hold out plenty of attractions; and, if the weather -be too hot for either walking or riding, the city contains hackney -coaches and _calesas_ without number, by means of which (most of the -roads in the vicinity being level) the various interesting points may be -reached without difficulty or inconvenience. - -The places most deserving of a visit in the immediate environs of -Seville, are the villages of _San Juan de Alfarache_ and _Santi Ponce_; -near the latter of which are the ruins of Italica. - -Both these places are situated on the right bank of the Guadalquivir; -the former, about three miles below Seville, the latter a little more -distant, up the stream. The road to both traverses the long town of -Triana, which contains nothing worthy of observation but a sombre gothic -edifice, where the high altar of Popish bigotry, the Inquisition, was -first raised in the Spanish dominions. It has long, however, been -converted to another purpose, never, let us hope, to be again applied to -that which for so many ages disgraced Christianity. - -By many Triana is supposed to be the Osset of Pliny, but I think without -sufficient reason, as it does not seem probable that a place merely -divided from Seville by a narrow river should have been distinguished by -him as a distinct city. The words of Pliny, "_ex adverso oppidum -Osset_," imply certainly that Osset stood on the opposite bank of the -river to Hispalis, but not that it was situated _immediately opposite_, -as some authors have translated it. It is yet more evident that Alcala -de Guadaira cannot be Osset, as supposed by Harduin, since that town is -on the _same_ side of the Guadalquivir as Seville. - -Florez imagines Osset to have been where San Juan de Alfarache now -stands,[53] near which village traces of an ancient city have been -discovered; and the position occupied by an old Moorish castle, on the -edge of a high cliff, impending over the river, and commanding its -navigation, seems clearly to indicate the site of a Roman station, since -the Saracens usually erected their castles upon the foundations of the -dilapidated fortresses of their predecessors. The village of San Juan de -Alfarache stands at the foot of the before-mentioned cliff, compressed -between it and the Guadalquivir; which river, making a wide sweep to the -north on leaving Seville, here first reaches the roots of the chain of -hills bounding the extensive plain through which it winds its way to the -sea, and is by them turned back into its original direction. - -Of the Moorish fortress little now remains but the foundation walls; the -stones of the superstructure having probably been used to build the -church and convent that now occupy the plateau of the hill. The view -from thence is quite enchanting, embracing a long perspective of the -meandering Guadalquivir and its verdant plain, the whole extent of the -shining city, and the distant blue outline of the Ronda mountains. - -The hills rising at the back of the convent are thickly covered with -olive trees, the fruit of which is the most esteemed of all Spain: and, -indeed, those who have eaten them on the spot, if they like the flavour -of olive rather than of salt and water, would say they are the best in -the world. The fruit is suffered to hang upon the tree until it has -attained its full size, and consequently will not bear a long journey. -For the same reason, it will not keep any length of time, as the salt in -which it is preserved cannot penetrate to a sufficient depth in its oily -flesh to secure it from decay. Let no one say, however, that he dislikes -_olives_, until he has been to San Juan de Alfarache. - -Retracing our steps some way towards Seville, we reach the great road -leading from that city into Portugal by way of Badajoz; and, continuing -along the plain for about five miles, we arrive at the priory of Santi -Ponce, situated on the margin of the Guadalquivir, and close to the -ruins of Italica. So complete has been the destruction of this once -celebrated city, the birth-place of three Roman Emperors, that, but for -the vestiges of its spacious amphitheatre, one would be inclined to -doubt whether any town could possibly have stood upon the spot; the more -so as the vicinity of Seville seems, at first sight, to render it -improbable that two such large cities would have been built within so -short a distance of each other. - -Opinions on the subject of the relative antiquity of these two cities -are, however, very various; for, whilst some Spaniards are to be found, -who maintain that Hispalis was founded long before Italica, and some -who, declaring, on the other hand, that the two cities never existed -together, insist on calling Italica, _Sevilla la Vieja_;[54] others -there are who suppose that the two cities flourished contemporaneously -for a considerable period, and that Hispalis (the more modern of the -two) eventually caused the other's destruction. - -This last hypothesis might readily be received, since, from the -influence of the tide being felt at Seville and not at Santi Ponce, the -situation of the former is so much more favourable for trade than that -of the latter; but that, setting aside the traditionary authority of -Seville having been founded by _Hispalis_, one of the companions of -Hercules, we have the testimony of several writers to prove that -Hispalis was a place of consequence when Italica must have been yet in -its infancy. For the antiquity of this latter is never carried further -back than the 144th Olympiad, i.e. 200 B.C. Now, Hispalis is mentioned -by Hirtius, at no very great period after that date, as a city of great -importance; whereas, Italica is noticed by him (proving it to have been -a _distinct_ place) merely as a walled town in the vicinity.[55] - -The two places are again mentioned separately by Pliny; the one, -however, as a large city, giving its name to a vast extent of -country--the _Conventus Hispalensis_--the other as one of the towns -within the limits of that city's jurisdiction. - -The foundation of Italica being fixed, therefore, about two hundred -years before the Christian era, and attributed to the veteran soldiers -of P. C. Scipio; that is to say, immediately after the expulsion of the -Carthagenians from the country; it may naturally be concluded that the -Romans, who had not come to Spain merely to drive out their rivals, -would, with their usual foresight, have planted a colony of their own -people to overawe the _principal city_ of a country they intended to -bring under subjection; and hence, that Seville existed long before -Italica was founded. - -The amphitheatre, which alone remains to prove the former grandeur of -Italica, is of a wide oval shape. The dimensions of its arena are 270 -feet in its greatest diameter, 190 in its least. It rests partly against -a hill, a circumstance that has tended materially to save what little -remains of it from destruction; but, nevertheless, only nine tiers of -seats have offered a successful resistance to the encroachments of the -plough. Few of the vomitorios can be traced, but it would appear that -there were sixteen. Some of the caverns in which the wild beasts were -confined are in tolerable preservation. - -From the ruined amphitheatre we were conducted to a kind of pound, -enclosed by a high mud wall, and secured by a stout gate, wherein we -were informed other reliques of Italica were preserved. There was some -little delay in obtaining the key of this _museo_, the _custodio_ being -at his _siesta_; and, hearing the grunting of pigs within, we began to -doubt whether it could contain any thing worth detaining us under a -broiling sun to see. Unwilling, however, to be disappointed, we -clambered with some little difficulty to the top of the wall, and, -_horresco referens!_ beheld an old sow rubbing her back against that of -the Emperor Hadrian, whilst the profane snouts of her young progeny were -grubbing at the tesselated cheeks of Clio and Urania, the only two of -the immortal Nine whose features could be distinctly traced in an -elaborate mosaic pavement that covered the greater part of the court. - -Several fragments of statues were strewed about; but all were in too -mutilated a state to excite the least interest. The feeling with which -we contemplated the beautiful, outraged pavement, was one of unmitigated -disgust; for the workmanship of such parts of it as remained intact was -of the most delicate description, the stones not being more than one -fifth of an inch square, and, as far as we could judge, put together so -as to form a picture of great merit. I fear that this valuable specimen -of the art has long since been altogether lost, for, at the time of -which I write, the stones were lying in heaps about the yard, and the -pavement seemed likely to be subjected to a continuance of the mining -operations of the "swinish multitude," as well as to exposure to the -destructive ravages of the elements. - -I could not refrain from expostulating with the owner of the piggery -(when he at length made his appearance) at this, in the words of Don -Quijote, _puerco y extraordinario abuso_. He was a wag, however, and -answered my "Why do you keep your pigs here?" precisely in the words -that an Irish peasant replied to a very similar question, viz., "But am -I to have the company of the pig?" put to him by a friend of mine, who -had a billet for a night's lodging on his cabin: to wit, "_No hay toda -comodidad_?" "Isn't there every convey'nance?" - -We then attempted to persuade him that the pigs being young and -inexperienced would probably kill themselves by swallowing the little -square stones piled up against the walls, when the supply of Indian corn -failed them. "No, Senor," he replied; "_el Puerco es un animal que tiene -mas sesos que una casa_." "The hog is an animal that has more (sesos) -brains (or bricks) than a house." And, indeed, the discrimination of the -animal is wonderful, for, whilst we were yet arguing the case, one of -the little brutes grubbed up the entire left cheek of Calliope, to get -at a grain of corn that had fallen into one of the numerous crow's feet -with which unsparing Time had furrowed the Muse's animated countenance. -Without further observation, therefore, we abandoned the chaste -daughters of Mnemosyne to their ignominious fate, remounted our horses, -and bent our steps homewards. - -The foreigner who visits Seville, under any circumstances, cannot but -find it a most delightful place, and our short sojourn at it was -rendered particularly agreeable by the kindness and hospitality of the -_Marques de las Amarillas_, who, independent of the pleasure it at all -times affords him to show his regard for the English, whom he considers -as his old brothers in arms, was pleased to express peculiar -gratification at having an opportunity of evincing his sense of some -trifling attentions that it had been in my power to pay his only son, -when, as well as himself, driven by political persecution to seek a -refuge within the walls of Gibraltar. - -The life of this distinguished nobleman, now Duke of Ahumado, has been -singularly varied by the smiles and frowns of fortune, and furnishes a -melancholy proof of the little that can be effected by talents, however -exalted, and patriotism, however pure, in a country writhing, like -Spain, under the combined torments of religious and political -revolution. For, the more sincere a lover of his country he who puts -himself forward, _having aught to lose_, may be, the more he becomes an -object of distrust and envy to _the many_, who seek in change but their -own aggrandizement. To him who would take the helm of affairs in times -of revolution, an unscrupulous conscience is yet more necessary than the -possession of extraordinary talents. - -The Marques de las Amarillas, well known in the "Peninsular War" as -General Giron, was appointed minister at war in the first cabinet formed -by Ferdinand VII. after he had sworn to the Constitution. A sincere -lover of rational liberty, and a strong advocate for a mixed form of -government, the Marques, himself a soldier, saw the danger of permitting -the very existence of the government to be at the mercy of the -undisciplined rabble army, that, seduced by its democratic leaders for -their own private ends, had effected the revolution; and had projected a -plan for its partial reduction and entire reorganization. - -The _Exaltados_, however, fearful lest the establishment of a _rational_ -form of government should result from a project which certainly would -have had the effect of allaying the existing agitation, accused the -Marques of a plot to subvert the constitution, and restore Ferdinand to -a despotic throne; and he was obliged to save himself from the impending -danger by a rapid flight, and to take refuge within the walls of -Gibraltar. There he remained during the period of misrule that preceded -the invasion of the country by the Duc d'Angouleme in 1823; suffering, -during the feeble struggle that ensued, from the most painfully -conflicting feelings that could possibly enter a patriot's breast. For, -aware that his unhappy country had but the sad alternative of a -continuance in anarchy and misery, or of bending the neck to foreign -dictation, and receiving back the cast-off yoke of a despot, he could -take no active part in a struggle which, end as it would, was fraught -with mischief to his native land. - -It ended, as he had always foreseen, in the restoration of the -despicable monarch, who possessed neither the courage to draw the sword -in defence of what he conceived to be his _rights_, nor the virtue to -adhere to the word pledged to his people; who by his contemptible -intrigues exposed, and by his vacillating plans sacrificed, his most -devoted adherents; who with his dying breath bequeathed the scourge of -civil war to his wretched country; whose very existence, in fine, was as -hurtful to Spain, as is the odour of the upas-tree to the incautious -traveller who rests beneath its shade. - -The contemptible Ferdinand, restored to his throne, forbade the _Marques -de las Amarillas_ to present himself in the capital--the crime of having -held office in a constitutional cabinet being considered quite -sufficient to warrant the infliction of such a punishment. Some ten -years afterwards, however, he was, through the influence of his -relatives, the Dukes of Baylen and Infantado, appointed captain-general -of Andalusia, and on the death of Ferdinand was called to Madrid, to -form one of the Council of Regency. - -He again held a distinguished post in the Torreno administration, and -again fell under the displeasure of the anarchists--his talents had less -influence than the halbert of Serjeant Gomez. - -These are not merely "_cosas de Espana_," however, but have been, and -will be, those of every country where the hydra, democracy, is -cherished. God grant that our own may be preserved from the many-headed -monster! - -We quitted Seville only "upon compulsion" (our leave of absence being -limited), making choice of a road which, though, by visiting Moron and -Ronda, it proceeds rather circuitously to Gibraltar, traverses a more -romantic and picturesque portion of the Serrania than any other. The -most direct of the numerous roads that offer themselves between Seville -and the British fortress, is by way of Dos Hermanos, Coronil, Ubrique, -and Ximena. - -The first place lying upon the road we selected is Alcala de Guadaira. -This town is distant about eight miles from Seville (though generally -marked much less on the maps), and is the first post station on the -great road from Seville to Madrid. - -For the first five miles from Seville the road traverses a gently -undulated country, that is chiefly planted with corn; but, on drawing -near Alcala, the features of the ground become more strongly marked, and -are clothed with olive and other trees; and amongst the hills that -encompass the town rise the copious springs which, led into a conduit, -supply Seville with water. Alcala administers to yet another of the -great city's most material wants, for it almost exclusively furnishes -Seville with bread, whence it has received the agnomen of "_de los -panaderos_" (of the bread-makers), as well as that of "_de Guadaira_," -which it takes from the river that runs in its vicinity. The numerous -mills situated along the course of this stream, by furnishing easy means -of grinding corn, probably led the inhabitants of Alcala to engage in -the extensive kneading and baking operations which are carried on there. - -The immediate approach to the town is by a narrow gorge between two -steep hills; that on the right, which is the more elevated of the two, -and very rugged and difficult of access, is washed on three sides by the -Guadaira, and crowned with extensive ruins of a Moorish fortress. The -town itself is pent in between these two hills and the river, and, there -can be but little doubt, occupies the site of some Roman city, its -situation being quite such as would have been chosen by that people. - -That it is not on the site of Osset is, as I have before observed, quite -evident, and its present name, being completely Moorish, furnishes no -clue whatever to discover that which it formerly bore. Some have -supposed it is Orippo; but inscriptions found at Dos Hermanos determine -that place to be on the ruins of the said Roman town. Possibly--for such -a supposition accords with the order in which the towns of the county -of Hispalis are mentioned by Pliny--Alcala may be Vergentum. - -It is a long dirty town, full of ovens and charcoal, and contains a -population of 3000 souls. The chaussee to Madrid, by Cordoba, here -branches off to the left; whilst that to Xeres and Cadiz, crossing the -Guadaira, is directed far inland upon Utrera, rendering it extremely -circuitous. A more direct road strikes off from it immediately after -crossing the river, proceeding by way of Dos Hermanos. - -We still continued to pursue the great road, which, after ascending a -range of hills that rises along the left bank of the Guadaira, traverses -a perfectly flat country, abounding in olives, that extends all the way -to Utrera, a distance of eleven miles. - -Utrera thus stands in the midst of a vast plain, that may be considered -the first step from the marshes of the Guadalquivir, towards the Ronda -mountains, which are yet twelve miles distant to the eastward. A slight -mound, that rises in the centre of the town, and is embraced by an -extensive circuit of dilapidated walls, doubtless offered the inducement -to build a town here; and these walls, some parts of which are very -lofty, and in a tolerably perfect state, appear to be Roman, though the -castle and its immediate outworks are Moorish. - -What the ancient name of the town was would, without the help of -monuments or inscriptions, be now impossible to determine, but it -certainly did not lie upon either of the routes laid down in the -Itinerary of Antoninus, between Cadiz and Cordoba, though some have -imagined it to be Ilipa.[56] Others have supposed it to be Siarum; but -adopting Harduin's reading of Pliny--"Caura, Siarum," instead of -Caurasiarum--it seems more likely that Utrera was Caura, and that Moron, -or some other town yet more distant from Seville, was Siarum. - -By its present name it is well known in Moorish history, its rich -_campina_ having frequently been ravaged by the Moslems, after they had -been driven from the open country to seek shelter in the neighbouring -mountains. - -At the present day, it is celebrated only for its breeds of saints and -bulls, the former ranked amongst the most devout, the latter the most -ferocious, of Andalusia. The town is large, and not walled in; the -streets are wide and clean, and a plentiful stream rises near and -traverses the place--remarkable as being the only running water within a -circuit of several miles. It contains 15,000 inhabitants, mostly -agriculturists, and a very tolerable inn. - -Utrera, as has already been observed, is situated on the _arrecife_, or -great road, from Cadiz to Madrid, which _arrecife_ makes two -considerable elbows to visit this place and Alcala. Now from Utrera -there is a cross-road to Carmona (which town is also situated on the -great route to the capital), that, by avoiding Alcala, reduces the -distance between the two places from seven to six leagues; and from -Utrera there is also another cross-road (by way of Arajal) to Ecija, -which, by cutting off another angle made by the _arrecife_, effects a -yet greater saving in the distance to that city, and consequently to -Cordoba and Madrid. From these circumstances, Utrera becomes, in -military phrase, an important _strategical_ point; and as such, the -French, when advancing upon Cadiz in 1810, attempted to gain it by the -cross-road from Ecija, ere the Duke of Albuquerque, who had taken post -at Carmona, with the view of covering Seville, could reach it by the -_arrecife_. The duke, however, with great judgment, abandoned Seville to -what he well knew must eventually be its fate, and by a rapid march -saved Cadiz, though not without having to engage in a cavalry skirmish -to cover his retreat. - -What important consequences hung upon the decision of that moment; for -how different might have been the result of the war, had the important -fortress of Cadiz fallen into the enemy's hands, and given them 30,000 -disposable troops at that critical juncture![57] - -On issuing from Utrera, we once more quit the chaussee (which is -henceforth directed very straight upon Xeres), and, taking an easterly -course, proceed towards a lofty mountain, that, seemingly detached from -the serrated mass, juts slightly forward into the plain. - -At the distance of six miles from Utrera, the ground, which thus far is -quite flat and very barren, begins to be slightly undulated, and is here -and there dotted with _cortijos_ and corn fields; and, at eight miles -from Utrera, a road crosses from Arajah to Coronil; the first-named town -being distant about two miles on the left, the latter half a league on -the right. For the next league the country is one waving corn-field. At -the end of that distance we reached the steep banks of a rivulet, which -here first issues from the mountains, and is called _El Salado de -Moron_. The road crosses to the right bank of this stream, on gaining -which it immediately turns to the north (keeping parallel to the ridge -of the detached mountain, upon which, as I have already noticed, it had -previously been directed), and ascends very gradually towards Moron. The -country, during this latter portion of the road, is partially wooded. -The total distance from Utrera to Moron is about sixteen miles. - -Moron is singularly situated, being nestled in the lap of five distinct -hills, the easternmost and loftiest of which is occupied by an old -castle, a mixed work of the Romans and Moors. - -According to La Martiniere, Moron is on the site of Arunci; and this -opinion seems to rest on a better foundation than that of other authors, -who maintain that Arcos occupies the position of the above-named ancient -city; for it is natural to suppose that the territory of the _Celtici_ -(amongst whose towns _Arunci_ is enumerated by Pliny) did not extend -beyond the intricate belt of mountains known at the present day as the -_Serrania de Ronda_. Now, Moron commands one of the principal entrances -to the Serrania, whereas Arcos is situated far in the plains of the -Guadalete towards Xeres, and would seem rather to have been one of the -cities of the "county of Cadiz." - -Moron is a strong post, for though raised but slightly above the great -plain of Utrera, it commands all the ground in its immediate -neighbourhood; and, standing as it does in a mountain gorge, by which -several roads debouch upon Seville from various parts of the _Serrania_, -it occupies a military position of some consequence. The French guarded -it jealously during the war, and placed the castle in a defensible -state. Since those days its walls have again been dismantled; but the -strength of its position tempted Riego (1820) to try the chances of a -battle with the royal army, commanded by General Josef O'Donnel, ere he -finally abandoned the mountains. - -In vain, however, Riego pointed out to his men the far distant hill of -_Las Cabezas_, where they had first raised the cry of "Constitution, or -death;" their _exaltacion_ had abandoned them, and they in turn -abandoned their exaltation, leaving their strong position after a very -slight resistance. A few days afterwards, at _Fuente Ovejuna_, they were -entirely dispersed. - -The successful general, ready to march either against the insurgents of -the Isla de Leon, or upon the capital, wrote to the king, announcing -that the army of Riego was no more, and requesting to know his commands: -but "_eheu! quam brevibus pereunt ingentia causis!_" a few weeks after -this letter was penned, the victor was a prisoner at Ceuta, and the -vanquished general (without doing any thing in the meanwhile to retrieve -his character) had become the hero of hymns and ballads! The imbecile -Ferdinand, fearful lest, by further delay in accepting the Constitution -he should lose his crown, had despatched orders to those generals who -remained faithful to him, to give up their respective commands, just as -the tide of affairs seemed to be turning in favour of a continuance of -his despotic reign. - -The dispersion of the constitutional army proved two things, however; -the first, that Riego was no general; the second, that he and his party -had deceived themselves as to the political feeling of the inhabitants -of the province. In the course of his rambling operations, Algeciras and -Malaga were the only places where Riego was at all well received. In -vain he tried to maintain himself in the latter city; driven out of it -at the point of the bayonet, he attempted to regain Cadiz, the -head-quarters of the revolt; but, closely pressed by the royal army on -his retreat through the Serrania, was obliged, as I have stated, to -receive battle at Moron, where the disorganization of his force was -completed. - -Moron contains a population of 8,000 souls, and is a well built town, -with wide streets, and good shops. There is a mountain road from hence -to Grazalema (seven leagues) by way of Zahara. The road from Moron to -Ronda passes by Olbera. The distance between the two places is -thirty-one miles. The country, immediately on leaving Moron, becomes -rough and desolate, and the road, (a mere mule-track,) traverses a -succession of strongly marked ridges, which, though not themselves very -elevated, are bounded on all sides by bare and rocky mountains. The -numerous streams which cross the stony pathway all flow to the south, -uniting their waters with the _Salado de Moron_. On penetrating further -into the recesses of the _Serrania_, the valleys become wider, and are -thickly wooded, and the luxuriant growth of the unpruned trees, the -absence of houses, bridges, and all the other signs of the hand of man, -offer a picture of uncultivated nature that could hardly be surpassed -even in the interior of New Zealand. - -At nine miles from Moron is situated the solitary venta of _Zaframagon_, -and, a mile further on, descending by a beautifully wooded ravine, we -reached an isolated rocky mound, under the scarped side of which, -embosomed in groves of orange and pomegranate trees, stands a -picturesque water-mill. From hence to Olbera is seven miles. The country -is of the same wild description as in the preceding portion of the -route, but gradually rises and becomes more bare of trees on drawing -near the little crag-built town. An execrable pave, which appears to -have remained intact since the days of the Romans, winds for the last -two miles under the chain of hills over whose narrow summit the houses -of Olbera are spread, rising one above another towards an old castle -perched on the pinnacle of a rocky cone. - -By some Spanish antiquaries, Olbera has been supposed to be the _Ilipa_ -mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, as being on the _second_ route laid -down between Cadiz and Cordoba, passing by Antequera. This route, by the -way, is not a less strange one to lay down between the two cities, than -a post road from London to Dover _by way of Brighton_ would be -considered by us; but the fancy of winding it through the least -practicable part of the mountains of Ronda, from Seville (if, as some -imagine, it first went to that city) to Antequera, is even yet more -strange, since a nearly level tract of country extends between those two -cities in a more direct line. - -Considering it, however, merely as a military way, made by the Romans to -connect the principal cities of the province, and serving in case of -need as a communication between Cadiz and Cordoba, _avoiding Seville_; a -much more probable line may be laid down, on which the distances will be -found to agree infinitely better.[58] - -Olbera is a wretched place, containing some 3,000 or 4,000 of the rudest -looking, and, if report speak true, of the least scrupulous, inhabitants -of the Serrania. Their lawless character has already been alluded to, -and, in Rocca's Memoirs, a most interesting account is given of their -reception of him, when, with a party of dragoons, he was on the march -from Moron to Ronda. - -His description of the rickety old town-house, wherein he saved his life -from an infuriated mob by making a fat priest serve as a shield, is most -correctly given, and, in the present dark, suspicious-looking, -cloak-enveloped inhabitants, one may readily picture to one's-self the -descendants of the men who skinned a dead ass, and gave it to the French -troopers for beef; ever after jeering them by asking "_Quien come carne -de burra en Olbera?_ Who eats asses'-flesh at Olbera?" - - Carula (Puebla de Santa Maria) 24 - Ilipa (Grazalema) 18 - Ostippo[59] (La Torre de Alfaquime) 14 - Barba (Almargen) 20 - Anticaria (Antequera) 24 - Angellas 23 - Ipagro 20 - Ulia 10 - Cordoba 18 - ---- - Total 294[60] - ---- - -The view from the old castle is very commanding; the outline of the -amphitheatre of mountains is bold and varied, and the valleys between -the different masses are richly wooded. To the south may be seen the -rocky little fortress of Zahara, sheltered by the huge _Sierra del -Pinar_; and only about two miles distant from Olbera to the north, is -the old castle of Pruna, similarly situated on a conical hill that -stands detached from a lofty impending mountain. - -Olbera is fourteen miles from Ronda. At the distance of rather more than -a mile, a large convent, _N. S. de los Remedios_, stands on the right of -the road, and a little way beyond this, the road descends by a narrow -ravine towards _La Torre de Alfaquime_, and, after winding round the -foot of the cone whereon that little town is perched, reaches and -crosses the Guadalete. This point is about four miles from Olbera. The -stream issues from a dark ravine in the mountains that rise up on the -left of the road, and serves to irrigate a fertile valley, and turn -several mills that here present themselves. - -A road to Setenil is conducted through the narrow gorge whence the -little river issues, but that to Ronda, ascending for three quarters of -an hour, reaches the summit of a lofty mountain on whose eastern -acclivity are strewed the extensive ruins of Acinippo. - -The view is remarkably fine; to the westward, extending as far as -Cadiz, and in the opposite direction looking down upon a wide, smiling -valley, watered by the numerous sources of the Guadalete, and upon the -little castellated town of Setenil, perched on the rocky bank of the -principal branch of that river. This place was very celebrated in the -days of the Moslems, having resisted every attack of the Christians,[61] -until the persevering "_Reyes Catolicos_" brought artillery to bear upon -its defences. - -The road to Ronda descends for two miles, and then keeps for about the -same distance along the banks of the Guadalete, crossing and recrossing -it several times. The surrounding country is one vast corn-field. -Leaving, at length, this rich vale, the road ascends a short but steep -ridge, whence the first view is obtained of the yet more lovely basin of -Ronda, which, clothed with orchards and olive grounds, and surrounded on -all sides by splendid mountains, is justly called the pride of the -Serrania. - -A good stone bridge affords a passage across the _Rio Verde_, or of -Arriate, about a mile above its junction with the Guadiaro; and the road -falls in with that from Grazalema on reaching the top of the hill -whereon the town stands. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - RONDA TO GAUCIN--ROAD TO CASARES--FINE SCENERY--CASARES--DIFFICULTY - IN PROCURING LODGINGS--FINALLY OVERCOME--THE CURA'S HOUSE--VIEW OF - THE TOWN FROM THE RUINS OF THE CASTLE--ITS GREAT STRENGTH--ANCIENT - NAME--IDEAS OF THE SPANIARDS REGARDING PROTESTANTS--SCRAMBLE TO THE - SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA CRISTELLINA--SPLENDID VIEW--JEALOUSY OF THE - NATIVES IN THE MATTER OF SKETCHING--THE CURA AND HIS - BAROMETER--DEPARTURE FOR THE BATHS OF MANILBA--ROMANTIC - SCENERY--ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITERS--THE MASTER OF THE - CEREMONIES--ROADS TO SAN ROQUE AND GIBRALTAR--RIVER GUADIARO AND - VENTA. - - -Ronda and the road from thence to Gaucin have been already fully -described; I will, therefore, pass on, without saying more of either -than that, if the road be one of the _worst_, the scenery along it -equals any to be met with in the south of Spain. The road was formerly -practicable for carriages throughout, but it is now purposely suffered -to go to decay, lest it should furnish Gibraltar with greater facilities -than that great commercial mart already possesses, for destroying the -manufactures of Spain--such, at least, is the excuse offered for the -present wretched state of the road. - -From the rock-built castle of Gaucin we will descend--by what, though -called a road, is little more than a rude flight of steps practised in -the side of the mountain--to the deep valley of the Genal, and, crossing -the pebbly bed of the stream, take a path which, winding through a dense -forest of cork and ilex, is directed round the northern side of the -peaked mountain of _Cristellina_, to a pass between it and the more -distant and wide-spreading _Sierra Bermeja_. - -The scenery, as one advances up the steep acclivity, is remarkably fine. -I do not recollect having any where seen finer woods; and the occasional -glimpses of the glassy Genal, winding in the dark valley below; the -numerous shining little villages that deck its green banks; the -outstretched town of Gaucin and ruined battlements of its impending -castle covering the ridge on the opposite side, and backed by the -distant mountains of Ubrique, Grazalema, &c., furnish all the requisites -for a perfect picture. - -Soon after gaining the summit of the wooded chain, the road branches in -two, that on the left hand proceeding to Estepona, the other to Casares. -Taking the latter, we emerged from the forest in about a quarter of an -hour, and found ourselves at the head of a deep and confined valley, -which, overhung by the scarped peaks of Cristellina on one side, is -bounded on the other by a narrow ridge that, stretching several miles -to the south, terminates in a high conical knoll crowned by the castle -of Casares. - -The road, which is very good, keeps under the crest of the left-hand -ridge, descending for two miles, and very gradually, towards the town. -The view on approaching Casares is remarkably fine, embracing, besides -the picturesque old fortress, an extensive prospect over the apparently -champaign country beyond, which (marked, nevertheless, with many a -wooded dell and rugged promontory,) spreads in all directions towards -the Mediterranean; the dark, cloud-capped rock of Gibraltar rising -proudly from the shining surface of the narrow sea, and overtopping all -the intervening ridges. - -Before reaching Casares, the mountain, along the side of which the road -is conducted, falls suddenly several hundred feet, and a narrow ledge -connects it with the conical mound more to the south, whereon the castle -is perched. The town occupies the summit of this connecting link--which -in one part is so narrow as to afford little more than the space -sufficient for one street--but extends, also, some way round the bases -and up the rude sides of the two impending heights, thus assuming the -shape of an hour-glass. - -Having reached the _Plaza_,--and a tolerably spacious one it is -considering the little ground the town has to spare for -embellishments,--we looked about for the usual signs of a _venta_, but, -failing in discovering any, applied to the bystanders for information, -who, pointing to a wretched hovel, on the wall of which was painted a -shield, bearing, in heraldic language, gules, a bottle sable, told us it -was the only _Ventorillo_[62] in the town. - -Now, though it is a common saying that "good wine needs no bush," we had -yet to learn that dirty floors need no broom; and, unwilling to be the -first to gain experience in the matter, we determined, after a minute -examination of the house, to present ourselves to the _Alcalde_, and, in -virtue of our passports, ask his "aid and assistance" in procuring -better quarters. - -The unusual sight of a party of strange travellers had brought that -important personage himself into the market-place, who, collecting round -him the principal householders of the town, forthwith laid our -distressing case before them, and, in his turn, asked for aid and -assistance in the shape of advice. - -Our papers were accordingly handed round the standing council, and, -having been minutely inspected, turned upside down, the lion and unicorn -duly admired, the great seal of the Governor of Gibraltar examined with -eyes of astonishment, and the question asked "_Son Ingleses?_"[63] -(which was excusable, considering the absurdity of giving passports in -_French_ to English travellers in _Spain_) a shrug of the shoulders -seemed all that the _Alcalde_ was likely to get in the way of advice, or -we in the lieu of board and lodging. - -Guessing at last, by the oft-repeated question concerning our -nationality, "_De que pie cojeaba el negocio_";[64] we took occasion to -signify to the conclave, that a few dollars would most willingly be paid -for any inconvenience the putting us up for the night might occasion. -Our prospects immediately brightened; each had now "_una salita_," that -he could very well spare for a night or so ... "we had our own _mantas_, -so that we should require but mattresses to lie down upon--and as for -stabling, that there was no loss for"--in fact, the only difficulty -appeared to be, how the Alcalde should avoid giving offence to a dozen, -by selecting _one_ to confer the favour of our company upon. - -He saw the delicacy of his position, and hesitated--"he himself, indeed, -had a spare room, but ..." here a portly personage, clothed in a black -silk cassock, and sheltered by an ample shovel hat, stepped forward to -relieve the embarrassed functionary from his dilemma; and giving him a -nod, and us a beckon, drew his _toga_ up behind, and walked off at a -brisk pace towards the castle hill. - -The claims of _El Senor Cura_--for such our conductor proved to be--no -one presumed to dispute; so making our bow to the _Alcalde_, who assured -us that - - _Quien a buen arbol se arrima_ - _buena sombra le cobija_,[65] - -we followed the footsteps of the worthy member of the Church -Hospitaliar, without further colloquy. - -Our conductor stopped not, and spoke not, until we had reached the very -top of the town, and then, leading our horses into a commodious stable, -he ushered us into his own abode; wherein he assured us, if the -accommodation he could offer was suitable, "we had but to _mandar_." It -consisted of a large _sala_ and an _alcoba_, or recess, for a bed; the -latter scrupulously clean, the former lofty and airy. We, therefore, -expressed our entire satisfaction, requesting only that a couple of -mattresses might be spread upon the floor; a friend, who had joined us -at Gaucin, rendering this increase of accommodation necessary. - -Having given instructions to that effect, Don Francisco Labato--for such -our host informed us were his _nombre y appellido_,[66] not omitting to -add, that he was a _clerigo beneficiado_[67]--proposed to accompany us, -to cast an ojeada[68] upon the curious old town, from the ruined -battlements of its ancient fortress; observing that there was yet -abundance of time to do so, "ere Phoebus took his evening plunge into -the western ocean." - -We gladly accepted the proffered ciceroneship of our classical host, -and, mounting the rugged pathway up the isolated crag, in a few minutes -reached the plateau at its summit. It would be hardly possible to select -a less convenient site for a town than that occupied by Casares. Pent in -to the north and south between impracticable crags, and bounded on the -other two sides by deep ravines; it can, in fact, be reached only, -either by describing a wide circuit to gain the mountains, rising at its -back; or, by ascending a rough winding path, practised in the side of -the castle hill. - -The principal part of the town is clustered round the base of the old -fortress, the houses rising one above another in steps, as it were, and -occupying no more of the valuable space than is necessary to give them a -secure foundation. The streets, which are barely wide enough to allow a -paniered donkey to pass freely, are formed out of the live rock, and, -here and there, are cut in wide steps, to render the ascent less -difficult and dangerous. These flat slabs of native limestone, when -heated by a summer sun, though passable enough by unshod animals, afford -but a precarious footing to a horse's iron-bound hoofs. - -The castle can only be approached through the town, and although its -walls have long been in ruins, yet, so strong are its natural defences, -that the muzzles of a few rusty old guns, propped up by stones, and -protruded from the prostrate parapets, were sufficient to deter the -French from making any attempt upon the place during the war of -independence:--such, at least, is the version of the inhabitants. - -That Casares was a Roman town is almost proved by the name it yet bears; -but the matter is placed beyond a doubt on examining the old foundations -of the castle, which are clearly of a date anterior to the occupation of -Spain by the Saracens. - -The name it anciently bore strikes me as being equally obvious, viz., -_Caesaris Salutariensis_; so designated from the mineral waters in its -neighbourhood, which, though _now_ known by the name of the modern town -of Manilba, are within the _termino_ of Casares. For, not only were the -valuable properties of these springs well known to the Romans, but, -according to the common belief in the country, they performed a -wonderful cure on one of the emperors--Trajan, I think. - -_Caesaris Salutariensis_ is mentioned by Pliny, amongst the Latin towns -of the _conventus gaditanus_; the limits of which country may, at first -sight, appear to be somewhat stretched to include Casares; but -Barbesula, which stood at the mouth of the river Guadiaro, at an equal -distance from Cadiz, (as is clearly proved by inscriptions found there,) -is also mentioned by that excellent authority as one of the stipendiary -towns of the same county; and the order in which they are enumerated, -viz., those first which were nearest to the capital, tends to confirm my -supposition. - -On our return from the old castle, which commands a splendid view, we -were not displeased to find that our host was no despiser of the good -things of this world, much as he gave us to understand that all his -thoughts were directed towards the never-ending joys of that which is to -come. Every thing bespoke a well-conducted _menage_; the house, besides -being clean and tastily decorated with flowers, was provided with some -solid comforts. The _Cura's niece_--his housekeeper, butler, and -factotum--was pretty, as well as intelligent and obliging. His _cuisine_ -was tolerably free from garlic and grease, his wine from aniseed. Our -horses were up to their knees in fresh straw; and three clean beds were -prepared for ourselves. - -Our host excused himself from partaking of our meal, he having already -dined, and, whilst we were doing justice to his good catering, paced up -and down the room pretending to read, but in reality watching our -movements, and, as it at first struck us, looking after his silver -spoons: but divers testy hints given to his bright-eyed niece that her -constant attendance upon us was unnecessary, soon made it evident that -_she_ was the object of his solicitude; as, judging from the occasional -direction of our eyes, he rightly conjectured what was the subject of -our conversation. Anon, however, he would approach the table, thrust the -volume of Homilies under his left arm, and, taking a pinch of snuff, -(which he said was "_bueno para el estudio_"[69]) ask our way of -thinking on various subjects, political and theological, always -prefacing his interrogatories by some observation, either on his passion -for study, the cosmopolitan bent of his mind, or the superiority his -learning gave him over the vulgar prejudices of the age. And, at length, -when the table was cleared, the niece gone, and he had elicited from us -that we were all three _English_, he observed, without further -circumlocution, "_Pues Senores_, you are not members of the _Santa -Iglesia, Catolica Romana_?" - -"No," we replied, "_Catolica_ but not _Romana_." - -"That is to say, you are heretical Christians." - -"That is to say, we differ with you as regards the corporeal nature of -the elements partaken of in the Eucharist; we deny the efficacy of -masses; the power of granting indulgences; and the necessity for -auricular confession:--and so far certainly we are heretics in the eyes -of the church of Rome." - -The worthy _Cura_--much as he had studied--was by no means aware that -our pretensions to Catholicism were so great as, on continuing the -controversy, he discovered them to be.[70] He made a stout stand, -however, for the absolute necessity of auricular confession; maintaining -that we, by dispensing with it, deprived the poor and ignorant of a -friend, a counsellor, and an intercessor;--stript our church of the -power of reclaiming sinners, and checking growing heresies;--and our -government of the means of anticipating the mischievous projects of -designing men. - -It was in vain we urged to our host that, in our favoured country, -education had done away with the necessity for strengthening the hands -of government by such means; that the poor were provided for by law; and -that the clergy were ever ready to counsel and assist those who stood in -need of spiritual consolation. But, before leaving us for the night, the -_Padre_ admitted that _we_ were certainly Christians, and that many of -the mysteries and practices of the Church of Rome were merely preserved -to enable the clergy to maintain their influence over the people;--an -influence which we deemed quite necessary for the well-being of the -state. - -Rising betimes on the following morning, we set off on foot to clamber -to the lofty peak of the _Sierra Cristellina_; and regular climbing it -was, for all traces of a footpath were soon lost, and we then had to -mount the precipitous face of the cone in the best way we could. The -magnificence of the view from the summit amply repaid us for the fatigue -and loss of shoe-leather we had to bear with; for, though scarcely 2000 -feet above the level of the sea, the peak stands so completely detached -from all other mountains, that it affords a bird's eye view which could -be surpassed only by that from a balloon. The entire face of the -country was spread out like a map before us. To the north, penned in on -all sides by savage mountains, lay the wide, forest-covered valley of -the Genal, its deeply furrowed sides affording secure though but scanty -lodgment to the numerous little fastnesses scattered over them by the -persecuted _Mudejares_, when expelled from the more fertile plains of -the Guadalquivir and Guadalete; and on which castellated crags the -swarthy descendants of these "mediatised" Moors still continue to reside -and bid defiance to civilization. - -These little strongholds stand for the most part on the summit of rocky -knolls that jut into the dark valley; and round the base of each a small -extent of the forest has in most cases been cleared, serving, in times -past, to improve its means of defence, and, at the present day, to admit -the sun to shine upon the vineyards, in the cultivation of which the -rude inhabitants find employment, when, obliged for a time to lay aside -the smuggler's blunderbuss, they take to the axe and pruning-knife. -Behind, serving as a kind of citadel to these numerous outworks, rises -the huge _Sierra Bermeja_, which afforded a last refuge to the -persecuted Moslems; and at its very foot, about five miles up the valley -of the Genal, are the ruins of _Benastepar_; the birth-place of the -Moorish hero, _El Feri_, whose courage and address so long baffled the -exterminating projects of the Spaniards. - -Turning now round to the south, a totally different, and yet more -magnificent, view meets the eye. Gibraltar,--its lovely bay,--the -African mountains, rising range above range,--and the distant Atlantic, -successively present themselves: whilst, from the height at which we are -raised above the intermediate country, the courses of the different -rivers, that issue from the gorges of the sierras at our back, may be -distinctly followed through all their windings to the Mediterranean, the -features of the intervening ground appearing to be so slightly marked as -to lead to the supposition that the country below must be perfectly -accessible;--but, as one of our party drily observed, those who, like -himself, had followed red-legged partridges across it could tell a -different story. - -We returned to Casares by descending the eastern side of the mountain, -which is planted with vines to within a short distance of the summit. In -fact, wherever a little earth can be scraped together, a root is -inserted. The wine made from the grapes grown on this bank is considered -the best of Casares; it is not unlike Cassis--small, but highly -flavoured. The town, looked down upon in this direction, has a singular -appearance, seeming to stand on a high cliff overhanging the -Mediterranean shore, though, in reality, it is six or seven miles from -it. - -We amused ourselves during the rest of the afternoon in taking sketches -of the town from various points in the neighbourhood, and excited the -wrath of some passers-by to a furious degree. They swore we were -_mapeando el pueblo_,[71] and that they would have us arrested; but we -were strong in our innocence, and turned a deaf ear to their menaces. It -is, however, a practice that is often attended with annoying -consequences; for I have known several instances of English officers -having been taken before the military authorities for merely sketching a -picturesque barn or cork tree--so great is the national jealousy. - -At our evening meal, our host, as on the former occasion walked -book-in-hand up and down the room, but was evidently less watchful of -his pretty niece and silver spoons. His attention, indeed, appeared to -be entirely given to the state of the mercury in an old barometer, -which, appended to the wall at the further end of the room, he consulted -at every turn, putting divers weatherwise questions to us as he did so. -And at last, he asked in plain language, whether our church ever put up -prayers for rain, and if they ever brought it. - -The occasion of all this _pumping_ we found to be, that the country in -the neighbourhood having long been suffering from drought, the -husbandmen, apprehensive of the consequences, had for some days past -been urging him to pray for rain, but the state of the barometer had not -hitherto, he said, warranted his doing so, and he had, therefore, put -them off, on various pretences. "Yesterday, however," he observed, -"seeing that the mercury was falling, I gave notice that I should make -intercession for them; and, I think, judging from present appearances, -that my prayers are likely to be as effectual as those of any bishop -could possibly be." And off he started to church, giving us, at parting, -a very significant, though somewhat heterodoxical grin. - -Nevertheless, not a drop of rain fell that night; the barometer was at -fault; and the only clouds visible in the morning were those gathered on -the brow of the _Cura_. They dispersed, however, like mist under the -sun's rays; when, bidding him farewell, and thanking him for his -hospitable entertainment, we slipped a _doublon de a ocho_ into his -hand; which, pocketing without the slightest hesitation, he assured us, -with imperturbable gravity, should be applied to the services of the -_church_--"as, doubtless, we intended." - -Threading once more the rudely _graduated_ streets of the town, we took -the stony pathway, before noticed, which winds down under the eastern -side of the castle hill, and in rather more than half an hour were again -beyond the limits of the Serrania, and in a country of corn and pasture. - -At the foot of the mountain two roads present themselves, one proceeding -straight across the country to San Roque and Gibraltar (nineteen and -twenty-five miles), the other seeking more directly the Mediterranean -shore, and visiting on its way the sulphur-baths and little town of -Manilba. - -The _Cura_ had spoken in such terms of commendation of the _Hedionda_ -(fetid spring)--claiming it jealously as the property of Casares--that -we were tempted to lengthen our journey by a few miles to pay it a -visit. - -The road to it follows the course of the little stream that flows in the -valley between the Cristellina mountain and Casares, which, escaping by -a narrow rocky gorge immediately below the town, winds round the foot of -the castle crag, and takes an easterly direction to the Mediterranean. -The country at first is open, and the stream flows through a smiling -valley, without encountering any obstacle; but, at about two miles from -Casares, a dark and narrow defile presents itself, which, the winding -rivulet having in vain sought to avoid, finally precipitates itself -into, and is lost sight of, under an entangled canopy of arbutus, -lauristinus, clematis, and various creepers. So narrow and overshadowed -is the chasm, so high and precipitous are its bank--themselves overgrown -with coppice and forest-trees, wherever the crumbling rocks have allowed -their roots to spread--that even the sunbeams have difficulty in -reaching the foaming stream, as it hurries over its rough and tortuous -bed; and the pathway, following the various windings of the narrow -gorge,--now keeping along the shady bank of the rivulet, now climbing, -by rudely carved zig-zags, some little way up the precipitous sides of -the fissure,--is barely of a width to admit of the passage of a loaded -mule. - -So wildly beautiful is the scenery, so free from artificial -embellishments,--for the low moss-grown water-mills which are scattered -along the course of the stream, and here and there a rustic bridge, owe -their beauty rather to nature than art--so _romantic_, in fine, is the -spot, that, if in the vicinity of a fashionable _baden_, it could not -fail of being a little fortune to all the ragged donkey-drivers within a -circuit of many leagues, and of proving a mine of wealth to the -surveyors of _tables d'hotes_, and _restaurans_, and keepers of billiard -and faro tables. - -The amusements of the frequenters of the humble _Hedionda_ are, however, -very different, and the sequestered dell is visited only by chanting -muleteers, driving their files of laded animals to or from the mills; -or, perchance, by some sulphurated old lady, who, ensconced in a -pillowed _jamuga_,[72] is bending her way, with renovated health, -towards Casares or Ximena: to which places the narrow fissure offers the -nearest road from the baths. - -After proceeding about a mile down the dark ravine, its banks, crumbling -down in rude blocks, recede from each other, and a huge barren sierra is -discovered rising steeply along the southern bank of the stream, to -which the road now crosses. It greatly excited our surprise how this -lofty and strongly marked ridge could have escaped our observation from -Casares, for it had seemed to us, that on descending from thence we -should leave the mountains altogether behind us. - -From the base of this barren ridge issues the _Hedionda_; still, -however, about a mile from us; and ere reaching it, the hills retiring -for a time yet more from the stream, leave a flat space of some extent, -and in form resembling an amphitheatre, which is planted with all kinds -of fruit-trees, and dotted with vine-clung cottages. This spot is called -_La Huerta_--the orchard; and these comfortless looking little -hovels--pleasing nevertheless to the eye--we eventually learnt are the -lodging-houses of the most aristocratic visiters of the baths. - -Traversing the fruitful little dell, and mounting a low rocky ledge that -completes its enclosure to the east, leaving only a narrow passage for -the rivulet, we found ourselves close to the baths; our vicinity to -which, however, the offensive smell of the spring (prevailing even over -the strong perfume of the orange blossoms) had already duly apprized us -of. - -The baths are situated almost in the bed of the pure mountain stream, -whose course we had been following from Casares; and a short distance -beyond, and at a slight elevation above them, stands a neat and compact -little village. - -The season being at its height, we found the place so crowded with -visiters, that it would have been impossible to procure a night's -lodging, had such been our wish. All we required, however, was -information concerning the place; for which purpose we repaired to the -_Fonda_,--a kind of booth, such as is knocked up at fairs in England for -the sale of gin, "and other cordials,"--and ordered such refreshment as -it afforded, asking the _Moza_[73] if she could tell us whether any of -the houses were vacant, &c. - -She replied, that the Fonda was provided with every thing necessary for -travellers of distinction, being established on the footing of the -hotels "_de mas fama_" of Malaga and San Roque; and that _El Senor -Juan_, the "_intendente_"[74] of the place,--who, doubtless, on hearing -of our arrival, would forthwith pay his respects to us,--could furnish -every sort of information respecting it. - -Oh! a master of the ceremonies, with his book, thought we--well, this -will be amusing: some urbane "captain," no doubt, all smiles to all -persons!--and whilst we were yet picturing to ourselves what this -Spanish Beau Nash could possibly be like, a tall ungainly personage, -with a considerable halt in his gait, a fund of humour in his long -leathern countenance, and a paper cigar screwed up in the dexter corner -of his mouth, presented himself, and placed his services at our -disposition. - -He held a huge pitcher of the fragrant water in one hand, which, when he -was in motion, gave him a "lurch to starboard;" a stout staff in the -other, by means of which he established an equilibrium when at rest. His -body was coatless, his neck cravatless, his shirt sleeves were rolled up -to the elbow, leaving his brown sinewy arms bare; his trowsers hung in -braceless negligence about his hips; his large bare feet were thrust -into a pair of capacious shoes; and his head was covered with a -high-crowned, narrow-brimmed, Frenchified hat, which had evidently -browned under the heat of many summers, and bent to the storms of -intervening winters. Round his neck hung a stout silver chain (which the -fumes of the sulphur-spring had turned as black as Berlin iron), whence -was suspended a ponderous master-key. - -"He must be the prison-keeper," said we, "carrying the daily allowance -of water to the incarcerated malefactors!" - -"This is _Senor Juan, el intendente_," said our smirking attendant, -placing a bottle of wine upon the table before us. - -"Oh! this is _Senor Juan_, the master of the ceremonies!--Then pray be -seated, _Senor Juan_; and bring another wine-glass, _Mariquita_." - -Our requests were instantly complied with; and in half an hour we had -disengaged from the numberless "_por supuestos, conques_," and "_pues_," -with which Senor Juan interlarded his conversation, and from the smoky -exhalations in which he enveloped it, all the information we required -concerning the baths, though by no means so full an account of them as -the gossip-loving _Tio_ seemed disposed to give us. So pleased were we, -however, with his description of the amusements of the place, and of the -valuable properties of its waters, that, assuring him we should take an -early opportunity of renewing his acquaintance, and commending him to -the care of _San Juan Nepomaceno_, we arose, and took our departure. - -I was not long in performing my promise. Indeed, I became an annual -visiter to the baths for a few days during the shooting season; and will -devote the following chapter to a more particular description of the -_Hedionda_, and the manner of life at a Spanish watering-place. - -The mule-track from the baths to Gibraltar--for during the first few -miles it is little else--keeps down the valley for some little distance, -and then, ascending a steep hill, joins at its summit a road leading to -Casares from Manilba; which latter little town is seen about -three-quarters of a mile off, on the left. This road to Casares turns -the _sierra_ overhanging the baths on its western side, where it meets -with some flat, nearly table-land; but our route to Gibraltar, after -keeping along it a few hundred yards, strikes off to the left, and, -traversing a wild and very broken country, in something more than three -miles forms its junction with the road from the town of Manilba to San -Roque and Gibraltar, which again, half a mile further on, falls into the -road from Malaga to those two places. This spot is distant five miles -from the baths, and rather more than two from the river Guadiaro. - -Near some farm-houses on the left bank of this river, and about a mile -from its mouth, are ruins of the Roman town of _Barbesula_. Some -monuments and inscriptions found here, many years since, were carried to -Gibraltar. - -The bed of the Guadiaro is wide but shallow, and offers two fords, which -are practicable at most seasons. There is a ferry-boat kept, however, at -the upper point of passage, for cases of necessity. A venta is situated -on the right bank of the stream, whereat a bevy of custom-house people -generally assemble to levy contributions on the passers-by. It is a -wretched place of accommodation, though better than another, distant -about a mile further, on the road to Gibraltar, and well known to the -sportsmen of the garrison by the name of _pan y agua_--bread and -water--those being the only supplies that the establishment can be -depended upon to furnish. Its vicinity to some excellent snipe ground -occasions it to be much resorted to in the winter. - -At the first-named venta, two roads present themselves, that on the -right hand proceeding to San Roque, (eight miles,) the other seeking the -coast and keeping along it to Gibraltar--a distance of twelve miles. - -The country traversed by the former is very rugged, but the path is, -nevertheless, unnecessarily circuitous. In various places--but a little -off the road--are vestiges of an old paved route, which, it is by no -means improbable, was the Roman way from _Barbesula_ to _Carteia_, of -which further notice will be taken, when the coast road from Malaga to -Gibraltar is described. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - THE BATHS OF MANILBA--A SPECIMEN OF FABULOUS HISTORY--PROPERTIES OF - THE HEDIONDA--SOCIETY OF THE BATHING VILLAGE--REMARKABLE - MOUNTAIN--AN ENGLISH BOTANIST--TOWN OF MANILBA--AN INTRUSIVE - VISITER--RIDE TO ESTEPONA--RETURN BY WAY OF CASARES. - - -The baths of Manilba lie about seventeen miles N.N.E. of Gibraltar, and -four, inland, from the sea-fort of Savanilla. The town, from which they -take their name, is about midway between them and the coast; and, -standing on a commanding knoll, is a conspicuous object when sailing -along the Mediterranean shore. - -The virtues of the sulphureous spring have long been known; but it is -only within the last few years that the increasing reputation of the -medicated source led a company of speculators to build the village which -now stands in its vicinity; the scattered cottages of the _Huerta_ -having been found quite incapable of lodging the vast crowd of -valetudinarians, annually drawn to the spot. The same parties have yet -more recently erected a chapel, and also the _Fonda_, mentioned in the -preceding chapter. - -The little village is built with the regularity of even Wiesbaden -itself, but nothing can well be more different in other respects than it -is from that, or any other watering-place, which I have ever visited. It -consists of five or six parallel stacks of houses, forming streets which -open at one end upon the bank overhanging the now sulphurated stream, -that flows down from Casares; and which abut, at the other, against the -side of the lofty mountain whence the medicated spring issues. These -streets are covered in with trellis-work, over which vines are trained, -rendering them cool, as well as agreeable to the sight. The houses are -all built on a uniform plan, namely, they have no upper story, and -contain but _one room each_; which room is furnished with the usual -Spanish kitchen-range--that is, with three or four little bricked stoves -built into a kind of dresser. By this arrangement, every room is, of -itself, capable of forming a _complete establishment_; and in most -cases, indeed, it does serve the triple purposes of a kitchen, a -refectory, and a dormitory, to its frugal inmates. When a family is -large, however, an entire lareet must be hired for its accommodation. - -The principal speculator in the joint-stock village is a gentleman of -Estepona; and _El Senor Juan_--or _Tio Juan_, as he is familiarly -called by those admitted to his intimacy--is a poor relative, who, for -the slight perquisites of office, readily undertook the charge of the -infant establishment. - -The choice of the _Tio_ was, in every respect, a judicious one; for, -having drunk himself off the crutches on which he hobbled down to the -baths, he has become a kind of walking advertisement of the efficacy of -the waters. He is not, however, like the unsightly fellows who -perambulate the streets of London with placards, a silent one; for I -know of no man more thoroughly versed in the art of _viva voce_ puffing -than _Tio Juan_; and then he has stored his memory with such a fund of -useful watering-place information, that he is a perfect guide to the -_Hedionda_ and its environs. - -The _Tio_ and I soon became wonderful cronies; I derived great amusement -from his _cuentas_--he, much gratification from my nightly whisky-toddy. -In fact, the two dovetailed into each other in a most remarkable manner; -for, when once the _Tio_ had attached one of his long stories to a -(_pint_) bottle of "poteen," there was no possibility of separating -them--they drew cork and breath together, and together only they came to -a conclusion. - -He knew every body that visited the baths, and every thing about them; -could point out those who came for health, and those who were allured -by dissipation; could tell which ladies and gentlemen were looking out -for matrimony, which for intrigue; whether the buxom widow had fruitful -vineyards and olive grounds with her weeds; whether the young ladies had -shining _onzas_ to recommend them as well as sparkling eyes. - -Then the Tio knew where every medicinal herb grew that was suited to any -given case--could point out the haunt of every covey of red-legged -partridges in the vicinity--could tell to an hour when a flight of quail -would cross from the parched shores of Africa--when the matchless -_becafigos_ would alight upon the neighbouring fig-trees--and, as the -season advanced, he would mark the time to a nicety when the first -annual visit of the woodcocks might be looked for to the wooded glens -beyond the baths. - -As the historian of the wonder-working spring, the _Tio_ was not less -valuable; though, it must be confessed, the terms in which he conveyed -the idea of its vast antiquity were any thing but prepossessing; viz., -"_Pues! saben ustedes, que esa hedionda es mas vieja que la sarna._" -"Know then, gentlemen, that this fetid spring is older than the itch." -In other respects, however, the information he had collected, besides -being most rare, possessed a freshness that was truly delightful; -"_Siglos hay_,[75]" he would continue, "the spring was _endemoniado_, -for _Carlomagno_, or some other great hero of the most remote antiquity, -drove an evil spirit into the mountain, which said spirit, to be -revenged on mankind, poisoned the source whence the stream flows. Saint -James, however, arriving in the country soon after--having taken Spain -under his especial protection--determined to expel this imp of Satan. -This was done accordingly, and the devil went over into Barbary, (where -he eventually stirred up the Moors against the adopted children of -_Santiago_--the story of _Don Rodrigo_ and _La Cava_ being all a fable,) -leaving nothing but his sulphur behind." - -"The good saint, to perpetuate the fame of the miracle he had wrought, -next determined to endue the spring with extraordinary curative -properties; not depriving it, however, of the unusually bad smell left -by the devil, that the marvellous work he was about to perform might be -the more apparent to future generations." - -"Some years after this, the baths were visited by '_muchos emperadores -de Roma_;'[76] amongst others, Trajan and Hercules; as also by the -famous Roland; and, '_segun dicen_,' by _un Ingles, llamado Malbru, y -otra gente muy principal_."[77] "In those days," continued the Tio, -"there were _palathios, posa'a, y to'o_,[78] but then came the Moors -(with the devil in their train), and laid every thing waste. They had -not the power, however, to deprive the stream of its virtues; and great -they are, and most justly celebrated _por todo la Espana_."[79] - -In detailing the wonderful properties of the spring committed to his -charge, _Tio Juan_ would enter with all the minuteness of an Herodotus. -By his account, there was no ailment to which suffering humanity is -exposed that it would not reach. It was a "universal medicine"--a -Hygeian fountain that bestowed perpetual youth--a Styx that rendered -mankind invulnerable. It gave strength to the weak, and ease to those -who were in pain--rendered the barren fruitful, and the splenetic, -good-humoured--made the fat, lean, and the lean, fat. By it the good -liver was freed from gout, and the bad liver from bile. The sores of the -leper were dried up, and the lungs of the asthmatic inflated--it made -the maimed whole, and patched up the broken-hearted. He had known many -instances of its curing consumption, and had seen it act like a charm in -cases of tympany. - -"In fact," said old Juan--"_para todo tiene remedio_.--_Mir' -usted_[80]--I, who on my arrival here could not put a foot to the -ground, now, as you may perceive, walk about like a _Jovencito_;[81] -and, under proper directions, I have no doubt it would make a man live -for ever."[82] - -Nor did the long list of the water's valuable qualities end here. It was -good for all the common purposes of life--for stewing and for -boiling--for washing and for shaving;--and, to wind up all, as we go on -sinning, until, by constant repetition, crime no longer pricks one's -conscience, so, the _Tio_ declared, one went on drinking this devilish -water until it positively became palatable. "_Jo no bebo otra_," he -concluded, "_nunca bebo otra--guiso y to'o con ella_."[83] - -Now, though the Tio painted the yellow spring thus _couleur de rose_, -and his account of its wonderful properties, like his system of -chronology, must be received with caution, yet I must needs confess that -the _Hedionda_ seemed to perform extraordinary cures; and, even in my -own case, I ever fancied that after a few days passed at the baths, I -returned to Gibraltar with invigorated powers of digestion. I could by -no means, however, bring myself to submit to the _Tio's_ discipline, and -he was wont to shake his head very seriously, when, returning from a -hard day's shooting, I used to request him to open a bath for me after -sunset--Hercules, himself, he thought could not have stood that. - -That this spring was known to the Romans there can be no manner of -doubt, since the public bath, which still exists, is a work of that -people. The source is very copious, and the water of an equal -temperature throughout the year, viz., 73 to 75 degrees of Fahrenheit's -thermometer. - -On analysis it is found to contain large quantities of hydrogen and -carbonic acid gases, and the following proportions of fixed substances -in fifty pounds of water, viz., six grains of muriate of lime; fifty-six -of sulphate of magnesia; thirty-five of sulphate of lime; ten of -magnesia; and four of silica. The quantity of sulphur it holds in -solution is so great, that the vine-dressers in the neighbourhood make -themselves matches, by merely steeping linen rags in the waste water of -the baths. - -The use of the bath has been found very efficacious in the cure of all -kinds of cutaneous diseases, ulcers, wounds, and elephantiasis; and -taken inwardly, the water is considered by the faculty as extremely -beneficial in cases of gout, asthma, scrofula, rheumatism, dyspepsia, -and, as the Tio said, in fact, in almost every disorder that human -nature is subject to. - -The season for taking the waters is from the beginning of June to the -end of September; and it is astonishing during those four months what -vast crowds of persons, of every grade and calling, are brought -together. Nobles, priests, peasants, and beggars--the gouty, -hypochondriac, lame, and blind--all flock from every part of the kingdom -to the famed Hedionda. It was ever a matter of surprise to me where such -a host can find accommodation. - -The same regimen is prescribed at this as at other watering places; -viz., plenty of the spring, moderate exercise, and abstemious diet; and -in this latter item, at least, the injunctions are as generally -disregarded at Manilba as at the Brunnens of Nassau: that is, -comparatively speaking, for it must be borne in mind that a German's -daily food would support a Spaniard for a week. - -The principal bath is open to the public, and, being very large and -tolerably deep, is by far the pleasantest, when one can be sure of its -entire possession. Those which have been built by the company of -speculators are too small, though convenient in other respects. The -charge for the use of these is moderate enough, viz., one real and a -half each time of bathing; which includes a trifling gratuity to _Tio -Juan_. - -The source from which the drinkers fill their goblets is open to all -comers, and any one may bottle and carry off the precious water _ad -libitum_. A considerable quantity is sent in stone jars to the -neighbouring towns; but Tio Juan maintained--and I believe not without -good reason--that it lost all its properties on the journey "_amen del -mal olor_."[84] - -The situation of the new village would have been more agreeable had it -been built somewhat higher up the side of the sierra, instead of on the -immediate bank of the rivulet, where it is excluded from the fine view -it might otherwise command, and is sheltered from every breath of air. -It is not, however, so sultry as might be expected, considering its -confined situation; for the mountain behind screens it from the sun's -rays at an early hour after noon, and the opposite bank of the ravine, -by sloping down gradually to the stream, and being clothed to the -water's edge with vines, fig, and other fruit-trees, throws back no -reflected heat upon the dwellings. - -The manner of life of the visiters of the _hedionda_ is not less -different from that of the watering places of other countries, than the -place itself is from Cheltenham or Carlsbad. They rise with the sun; -drink their first glass of water at the spring on their way to chapel; a -second glass, in returning from their devotions; and then take a -_paseito_[85] in the _huerta_: but not until after the third dose do -they venture on their usual breakfast of a cup of chocolate. The bath -and the toilette occupy the rest of the morning. Dinner is taken at one -or two o'clock; the _Siesta_ follows, and before sunset another bath, -perhaps. The _Paseo_ comes next--that is quite indispensable--and the -_Tertulia_ concludes the arrangements for the day. - -This, at the baths, is a kind of public assembly held in the open air, -and generally in one of the vine-sheltered streets of the modern -village. A guitar, cards, dancing, and games of forfeit, are the various -resources of the _reunion_; which breaks up at an early hour. - -_Tio Juan_, in his shirt-sleeves and slippers, is a constant attendant -at the _Tertulia_, usually looking on at the sports and pastimes with -becoming gravity, but occasionally taking a hand at _Malilla_,[86] or -joining the noisy circle playing at _El Enfermo_;[87] in which, when the -usual question is asked, "What will _you_ give the sick man?" he -invariably answers, "_El Agua--nada mas que el agua--que no hay cosa mas -sano en el mundo_,"[88] puffing away at his paper cigar all the while -with the most imperturbable gravity, and casting a side glance at me, as -much as to say--"not a word of our nightly _symposium_, if you please." - -The company on these occasions is, as may be supposed, of a very mixed -kind. Let it not be imagined, however, that because "_Senor Juan_" -presents himself with bare elbows, that it is altogether of a secondary -order--far from it--for such is the caprice of fashion, such the love of -change, that even the noblest of the land are ofttimes inmates of the -little inconvenient hovels that I have described; but _Tio Juan_ is a -privileged person--every body consults him, every one makes him his or -her confidant. And so curiously is Spanish society constituted, that -though considered the proudest people in the world, yet, on occasions -like this, Spaniards lay aside the distinction of rank, and mix together -in the most unceremonious manner. Indeed, no people I have ever seen -treat their inferiors with greater respect than the Spanish Nobles. They -enter familiarly into conversation with the servants standing behind -their chair; and, strange as it may appear, this freedom is never taken -advantage of, nor are they less respected, nor worse served in -consequence. - -The custom of kneeling down in common at their places of public worship -may have a tendency to keep up this feeling, warning the rich and -powerful of the earth that, though placed temporarily above the peasant -in the world's estimation, yet that he is their equal in the sight of -the Creator of all; an accountable being like themselves, and deserving -of the treatment of a human being. - -The Spanish nobles certainly find their reward in adopting such a line -of conduct, for they are served with extraordinary fidelity; and the -horrors which were perpetrated _through the instrumentality of -servants_, during the French revolution, is little to be apprehended in -this country; perhaps, indeed, this good understanding between master -and man has hitherto saved Spain from its reign of terror. - -The chapel of the bathing village is generally thronged with penitents; -for people become very devout when they have, or fancy they have, one -foot in the grave. The little edifice may be considered the repository -of the _archives_ of _the Hedionda_, for countless are the legs, arms, -heads, and bodies, moulded in wax, or carved in wood, and telling of -wondrous cures, that have been offered at the shrine of Our Lady of _Los -Remedios_. - -Leaving the good Romanists at their devotions within the crowded chapel, -and _Tio Juan_, with one knee and his pitcher of water on the ground, -and his staff in hand, offering a passing prayer behind the throng -collected outside the open door, we will devote the morning to a -scramble to the summit of the steep mountain that rises at the back of -the baths. - -The _Sierra de Utrera_, by which name this rugged ridge is -distinguished, is of very singular formation. Its eastern base (whence -the _hedionda_ issues) is covered with a crumbling mass of schist, -disposed in laminae, shelving downwards, at an angle of 25 or 30 degrees -with the horizon. This sloping bank reaches to about one third the -height of the mountain, when rude rocks of a most peculiar character -shoot up above its general surface, rising pyramidically, but assuming -most fantastic forms, and each pile consisting of a series of huge -blocks (sometimes fourteen or fifteen in number), resting loosely one -upon another, and seemingly so much off the centre of gravity as to lead -to the belief that a slight push would lay them prostrate. - -At first these detached pinnacles rise only to the height of fifteen or -twenty feet, but, on drawing near the crest of the ridge, they attain -nearly twice that elevation. The general surface of the mountain, above -which these piles of rocking stones rise, is rent by deep chasms, as if -the whole mass of rock had, at some distant period, been shaken to its -very foundation by an earthquake. In these rents, soil has been -gradually collected, and vegetation been the consequence; but the -general character of the mountain is arid and sterile. - -The ascent becomes very difficult as one proceeds, and, in fact, it -requires some little agility to reach the crest of the singular ridge. -Its summit presents a very rough, though nearly horizontal surface, -varying in width from 300 to 400 yards; and, looking from its western -side, the spectator fancies himself elevated on the walls of some vast -castle, so precipitously does the rocky ledge fall in that direction, so -level and smiling is the cultivated country spread out but a couple of -hundred feet below him. - -This rocky plateau appears to have been covered, in former days, with -the same singularly formed pyramids that protrude from the eastern -acclivity of the mountain; but they have probably been hewn into mill -stones, as many of the rough blocks strewed about its surface are now in -process of becoming. The plateau extends nearly two miles in a parallel -direction to the rock of Gibraltar, that is, nearly due north and south -by compass; and, when on its summit, the ridge appears continuous; but, -on proceeding to examine the southern portion of the plateau, I found -myself suddenly on the brink of a chasm, upwards of a hundred feet -deep, which, traversing the mountain from east to west, cuts it -completely in two. This cleft varies in width from 50 to 100 feet; and -in winter brings down a copious stream, being the drain of a -considerable extent of country on the western side of the ridge. It is -partially clothed with shrubs and wild olive-trees, and a rude pathway -leads down the dark dell to the _hedionda_, which issues from the base -of the mountain, about 200 yards to the north of the opening of the -chasm. - -This remarkable gap, though not distinguishable from the baths situated -immediately below it, is so well defined, and has so peculiar an -appearance at a distance, that it is an important landmark for the -coasting vessels. - -The southern portion of the Sierra is far less accessible than that -which has been described; in fact, access to its summit can be gained -only by means of a ramped road, which, piercing the rocky precipice on -its western side, has been made to facilitate the transport of the -millstones prepared there. In other respects, this part of the plateau -is of the same character as the other. - -Wonderful are the tales of fairies, devils, and evil spirits, told by -the goatherds and others who frequent this singular mountain; and _Tio -Juan_, who never would suffer himself to be outdone in the marvellous, -told us that "_un Ingles_," who, about two years before, had been on a -visit to the baths, had disappeared there in a most mysterious way. A -goatherd of his acquaintance had seen him descend into a cleft in search -of some herb, but out of it he had never returned. "_Se dicen_," he -concluded, "_que era uno de esos Lores, de que hay tantos en -Inglaterra_;[89] but I can hardly believe, if he had possessed such -'_montones de oro_'[90] as was represented, that he would have been -going about like a pedlar, with a basket slung to his back, picking up -all sorts of herbs, and drying them with great care every day when he -returned home, spreading them out between the leaves of a large book. -'_A me mi parece_,'[91] that he was gathering them to make tea with; but -I know an herb which grows on that Sierra, which is worth all the -medicines[92] in the world: ay! and in some cases it is yet quicker, -though not more effectual, in its cure, than even the waters of the -_hedionda_; and some day, _Don Carlos_, I will walk up and show you the -cleft wherein it grows." - -The _Tio's_ occupations were, however, too constant to allow of his -accompanying me in search of this wonderful plant, and, consequently, -my curiosity concerning it was never gratified. - -The district of Manilba is celebrated for the productiveness of its -vineyards, and the undulated country between the baths and the southern -foot of the _Sierra Bermeja_ is almost exclusively devoted to the -culture of the grape. That most esteemed is a large purple kind. It is -highly flavoured, and makes a strong-bodied and very palatable wine, -though, in nine cases out of ten, the wine is spoilt by some defect of -the skin in which it has been carried. - -The husks of the Manilba grape, after the juice has been expressed, -enjoy a reputation for the cure of rheumatism, scarcely less than that -of the sulphureous spring itself. The sufferer is immersed up to the -neck in a vat full of the fermenting skins, and, after remaining therein -a whole morning, comes forth as purple as a printer's devil. I have met -with persons who declared they had received great benefit from this -vinous bath; but I question whether interment in hot sand (a mode of -treatment, by the way, which has been tried with great success) would -not have been found more efficacious, without subjecting the patient to -this unpleasant discoloration. - -Several interesting mornings' excursions may be made from the baths. The -village of Manilba (about two miles distant) is situated on a high, but -narrow ridge, that protrudes from the south-eastern extremity of the -Sierra de Utrera. It is a compactly built place, and commands fine -views: towards the mountains on one side, and over the Mediterranean on -the other. The population amounts to about 3000 souls, principally -vinedressers and husbandmen. - -On one occasion--having found all the lodging-houses at the _hedionda_ -occupied, I established myself for a few days at the posada at Manilba, -where a singular adventure befel me. Mine host entered my room on the -evening of my arrival, and very mysteriously informed me, that a certain -person--a friend of his--a Spanish officer "_por fin_," who had -distinguished himself greatly under the constitutional government, and -was a _caballero de toda confianza_,[93] wished very much to have the -honour of paying me a visit, if I were agreeable, which, hearing I was -alone, he thought it possible I might be; and, before I had time fully -to explain that I was quite tired from a long day's shooting, and must -beg to be excused, the _Lismahago_ himself walked in--as vulgar, -off-handed, free-and-easy a gentleman as I ever came across. - -Having expressed unbounded love for the English nation, and stated his -conviction--drawn from his intimate knowledge of the character of -British officers--that they were, one and all, well disposed to assist -in the grand work of regenerating Spain, he proceeded to state, that the -"friends of liberty," in various towns of that part of the Peninsula, -had entered into a plot to subvert the existing government of the -country, and having many friends in Gibraltar, wished, through the -medium of an officer of that garrison, to communicate with them; that, -understanding I was, &c. &c. &c. - -I had merely acknowledged that I comprehended what he was saying, by -bowing severally to the numerous panegyrics on liberty, and compliments -to myself and nation, with which he interlarded his discourse--for the -above is but the skimmed milk of his eloquent harangue; but, finding -that he had at length concluded, I expressed the deep regret I felt at -not being able to meet his friendly proposal in the way he wished, from -the circumstance of my time being fully occupied in preparing a -deep-laid plot against my own government--nothing less, in fact, than to -give up the important fortress of Gibraltar to the Emperor of Morocco, -until we had established a republic in England. When this grand project -was accomplished, I added, I should be quite at leisure, and would most -willingly enter into any treasonable designs against any other -government; but, at present, he must see it was quite out of the -question. - -My visiter gazed on me "with the eyes of astonishment," but I kept my -countenance. He rose from his seat--I did the same. - -"Are you serious?" asked he. - -"Perfectly so," I replied; "but, of course, I reckon on your maintaining -the strictest secrecy in the matter I have just communicated," I added -earnestly. - -"You may rely in perfect confidence upon me." - -"Do you smoke? Pray accept of a Gibraltar cigar. I regret that I cannot -ask you to remain with me, but I have letters of the utmost importance -to write, which must be sent off by daybreak." He accepted my proffered -cigar, begged I would command his services on all occasions, and walked -off. - -I made sure he was a government spy, and in a towering rage sent for the -innkeeper. He protested such was not the case, adding, "but, to confess -the truth," he was a poor harmless fellow,--a reduced officer of the -constitutional army,--who was very fond of the English, not less so of -wine; talked a great deal of nonsense, which nobody minded; and hoped I -would take no notice of it. - -I reminded mine host, that he had said he was a "_distinguished -officer_," and had called him "_his friend_."--"_Si, senor, es -verdad_;[94] but the fact is, he followed me up stairs, and I knew he -was at the door, listening to what I might say." - -I very much doubted the truth of his asseverations, and my doubts were -confirmed by my never afterwards seeing the constitutional officer about -the premises; but, to prevent a repetition of such introductions, I -begged to be allowed the privilege of choosing my own associates, -telling him, indeed, that my further stay at his house would depend upon -it. I still, however, continued to look upon the fellow as a spy, until -the mad attempt made by Torrijos to bring about a revolution, not very -long afterwards, led me to think that my visiter's overture might really -have been seriously intended. - -Manilba is distant about seven miles from Estepona. The first part of -the road thither lies through productive vineyards; the latter along the -sea-shore, on reaching which it falls into the road from Gibraltar to -Malaga. - -Not many years since Estepona was a mere fishing village, built under -the protection of one of the _casa fuertes_ that guard the coast; but -the fort stands now in the midst of a thriving town, containing 6000 -inhabitants. - -The fish taken here finds a ready sale in the Serrania, whither it is -conveyed in a half-salted state, on the backs of mules or asses. The -_Sardina_ frequents this coast in great numbers; it is a delicious -fish, of the herring kind, but more delicately flavoured. - -The environs of Estepona are very fruitful; and oranges and lemons are -exported thence to a large amount--the greater portion to England. The -place is distant twenty-five miles from Gibraltar (by the road), and -sixteen from Marbella. To the latter the road is very good. - -A most delightful ride offers itself to return from hence to the baths -of Manilba, by way of Casares. The road, for the first few miles, keeps -under the deeply seamed and pine-clad side of the _Sierra Bermeja_, and -then, leaving the mountain-path to Gaucin (mentioned in a preceding -chapter) to the right, enters an intersected country, winding along the -edge of several deep ravines, shaded by groves of chesnut-trees, and -reaches Casares very unexpectedly; leaving a large convent, situated on -the side of a steep bank, on the left, just before entering the narrow, -rock-bound town. - -The road from Casares to the baths has already been described, but two -other routes offer themselves from that town to reach Manilba. The more -direct of these keeps the fissure in which the _hedionda_ is situated on -the right; the other makes a wide circuit round the _Sierra de Utrera_, -and leaves the baths on the left. By the former the distance is five and -a half, by the latter seven miles. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - A SHOOTING PARTY TO THE MOUNTAINS--OUR ITALIAN PIQUEUR, DAMIEN - BERRIO--SOME ACCOUNT OF HIS PREVIOUS LIFE--LOS BARRIOS--THE - BEAUTIFUL MAID, AND THE MAIDEN'S LEVELLING SIRE--ROAD TO - SANONA--PREPARATIONS AGAINST BANDITS--ARRIVAL AT THE - CASERIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS OWNER AND ACCOMMODATIONS--FINE - SCENERY--A BATIDA. - - -In the wildest part of the mountainous belt that, stretching in a wide -semicircle round Gibraltar, cuts the rocky peninsula off, as it were, -from the rest of Spain, is situated the _Caseria de Sanona_; a lone -house, now dwindled down to a mere farm; but, as both its name implies, -and its appearance bespeaks, formerly a place of some consequence. - -It was brought to its present lowly state during the last war, when its -inhabitants were so reduced in number, as well as circumstances, that -hands and means are still equally wanting for the proper looking after, -and attending to, the vast herds and extensive _dehesas_[95] and -forest-lands belonging to it. The consequence is, that the wolves and -wild boars, from having been so long permitted to roam about in -undisputed possession of the woods, have in their turn, from being the -persecuted, become the aggressors, and are now in the habit of making -nightly predatory visits to the cattle folds and plantations of the -_Caseria_, carrying off the farmer's sheep and heifers, and destroying -his winter stock of vegetables, whenever, by any neglect or remissness -of the watch, an opportunity is afforded them. - -Besides the animals above mentioned, deer, and, in the winter, -woodcocks, find the unfrequented ravines in the vicinity of the -_Caseria_ equally well suited to their secluded habits; and, tempted by -the promising account of the sport the place afforded, a party was -formed, consisting of three of my most intimate friends, myself, and a -piqueur, to proceed thither for a few days' shooting. - -Sending forward a messenger to the Caseria, as well to go through the -form of asking its proprietor to "put us up," during our proposed visit, -as to request him to have a sufficient number of beaters collected--on -which the quality of the sport mainly depends--we provided ourselves -with a week's consumption of provisions and ammunition, and, leaving -Gibraltar late in the afternoon, proceeded to Los Barrios; whence, we -could take an earlier departure on the following morning than from the -locked-up fortress. - -The _Piqueur_ who usually accompanied us on these shooting excursions -was a personage of some celebrity in the Gibraltar _sporting world_, and -his name--Damien Berrio--will doubtless be familiar to such of my -readers as may have resided any time on "the rock." By birth a -Piedmontese, a baker by profession, Damien's bread--like that of many -persons in a more elevated walk of life--was not to his taste. At the -very mention of a _Batida_, he would leave oven, home, wife, and -children; shoulder his gun, fill his _alforjas_--for he was a provident -soul, and, though a baker, ever maintained that man could not live on -bread alone--borrow a horse, and, in half an hour, "be ready for a -start." - -Possessing a perfect knowledge of the country, a quick eye, an unerring -aim, and a nose that could wind an _olla_ if within the circuit of a -Spanish league, Damien was, in many respects, a valuable acquisition on -a shooting party. And to the aforesaid qualifications, befitting him for -the _staff_, he added that of being an excellent _raconteur_. In this he -received much assistance from his personal appearance, which, like that -of the inimitable Liston, passed off for humour that which, in reality, -was pure nature. - -His person was much above the common stature, erect, and well-built, but -his hands and feet were "prodigious." His face--when the sun fell -directly upon it, so as to free it from the shadow of his enormous -nose--was intelligent, and bespoke infinite good nature, though marked, -nevertheless, with the lines of care and sorrow. His costume was that of -a French sportsman, except that he wore a high-crowned, weather-beaten -old hat, placed somewhat knowingly on one side of his head, and which, -of itself alone, marked him as "_a character_." - -To those who have not had the pleasure of his acquaintance, a _precis_ -of his early history may not be unacceptable; those who already know it -will, I trust, pardon the short digression. - -Born on the sunny side of the Alps, some fifteen years before the -breaking out of the French revolution, Damien, at a very early age, was -called upon to defend his country against the aggression of its Gallic -neighbours. He was draughted accordingly to a regiment of grenadiers of -the Piedmontese army commanded by General Colli; and, in the short and -disgraceful campaign of 1796, was made prisoner with the brave but -unfortunate Provera, at the Castle of Cosseria. - -On the formation of the Cisalpine republic soon afterwards, our -grenadier, released, as he fondly imagined, from the necessity of any -further military service, purposed returning to his family and regretted -agricultural pursuits; but, on applying for his discharge, he found that -he had quite misunderstood the meaning of the word _freedom_. "What!" -said the regenerator of his oppressed country; "what! return home like a -lazy drone, when so much still remains to be done! No, no, we cannot -part with you yet; we are about to give liberty to the rest of Italy; -you must march; can mankind be more beneficially or philanthropically -employed? _Allons! en avant! vive la liberte!_"--"And so," said Damien, -"off we were marched, under the tail of the French eagle, to give -freedom to the _Facchini of Venice_, and _Lazzaroni_ of Naples; and to -spoil and pillage all that lay in our way." - -This marauding life was ill-suited either to our hero's taste or habits, -and accordingly he embraced the first favourable opportunity of quitting -the service of the "Regenerator of Italy." How he managed to effect his -liberation I never could find out, it being one of the very few subjects -on which Damien was close; but I suspect--much as he liked -shooting--that the love of the smell of gunpowder was not a _natural_ -taste of his. Be that as it may, he made his way to Spain--took to -himself a Spanish wife--and settled at Gibraltar. - -His language, like the dress of a harlequin, was made up of -scraps,--French, Spanish, English, and Italian, joined in angularly and -without method or regularity; and all so badly spoken, as to render it -impossible to say which amongst them was the mother-tongue. -Nevertheless, Damien got on well with every body, and his _bonhommie_ -and good nature rendered him a universal favourite. In other respects, -however, he was not so favoured a child of fortune; for, though no idle -seeker of adventures, in fact, he was wont to go a great way to avoid -them, yet, as ill luck would have it, adventures very frequently came -across him. And it generally happened, as with the famed Manchegan -knight, that Damien, in his various encounters, came off "second best." -That is to say, they usually ended in his finding himself _minus_ his -gun, or his horse, or both, and, perhaps, his _alforjas_ to boot. - -By his own account, these untoward events invariably happened through -some want of proper precaution--either whilst he was indulging in a -_Siesta_, or taking a snack by the side of some cool stream, his trusty -gun being out of his immediate reach, or when committing some other -imprudent act. So it was, however, and these "_petits malheurs_," as he -was in the habit of calling them, had generated a more than ordinary -dread of robbers, which, in its turn, had produced in him a disposition -to be gregarious whenever he passed the bounds of the English garrison. - -In travelling through the mountains, we always knew when we were -approaching what Damien considered a likely spot for an ambuscade, by -his striking up a martial air that he told us had been the favourite -march of the regiment of grenadiers in which he had served; giving us -from time to time a hint that it would be well to be upon the look-out -by observing to the person next him, "_Hay muchos ladrones par ici, mon -Capitaine--el ano pasado (maledetti sian' ces gueux d'Espagnols!) on m'a -vole une bonne escopete en este maldito callejon_[96]--_Il faut etre -prepare, Messieurs!_" and then the Piedmontese march was resumed with -increased energy, growing _piu marcato e risoluto_, as the banks of the -gorge became higher and the underwood thicker. - -On regaining the open country, the air was changed by a playful -_Cadenza_ to one of a more lively character, and, after a _Da Capo_, -generally ended with "_n'ayez pas peur, Messieurs--questi birbanti -Spagniuoli_"[97] (he seldom abused them in their native language, lest -he should be over-heard) "_n'osent pas nous attaquer a forces egales_." - -Poor _Damien!_ many is the good laugh your fears have unconsciously -occasioned us--many the joking bet the tuning up of the Piedmontese -grenadiers' march has given rise to--and every note of which is at this -moment as perfect in my recollection as when we traversed together the -wild _puertas de Sanona_. - -The town of Los Barrios, where we took up our quarters for the night, is -twelve miles from Gibraltar. It is a small, open town, containing some -2000 souls, and, though founded only since the capture of Gibraltar, -already shows sad symptoms of decay. - -Being within a ride of the British garrison, it is frequently visited by -its inmates, and two rival _posadas_ dispute the honour of possessing -the _golden fleece_. One of them, for a time, carried all before it, in -consequence of the beauty of the _Donzella de la Casa_:[98] but beauty -_will_ fade, however unwillingly--as in this case--its possessor admits -that it does; and the "fair maid of Los Barrios," who, when I first saw -her, was really a very beautiful girl, had, at the period of my last -visit, become a coarse, fat, middle-aged, _young woman_; and, as the -charges for looking at her remained the same as ever, I proved a -recreant knight, and went to the rival posada. - -Nothing could well be more ludicrous than the contrast, in dress and -appearance, between the beauty's mother and the beauty herself--unless, -indeed, the visiter arrived very unexpectedly,--the one being dirty, -slatternly, and clothed in old rags; the other, _muy bien peynado_,[99] -and pomatumed, and decked in all the finery and ornaments presented by -her numerous admirers. The old lady was excessively proud of her -daughter's beauty and wardrobe; and in showing her off always reminded -me of the _sin-par_[100] Panza's mode of speaking of his _Sanchita, una -muchacha a quien crio para condesa_.[101] - -The father of "the beauty" was a notorious _liberal_; and, having -outraged the laws of his country on various occasions, was executed at -Seville some years since. He was, I think, the most thorough-going -leveller I ever met with--one who would not have sheathed the knife as -long as any individual better off than himself remained in the country. -Boasting to me on one occasion of the great deeds he had done during the -war, he said that in one night he had despatched eleven French soldiers, -who were quartered in his house. He effected his purpose by making them -drunk, having previously drugged their wine to produce sleep. He put -them to death with his knife as they lay senseless on the floor, carried -them out into the yard, and threw them into a pit. The monster who could -boast of such a crime would commit it if he had the opportunity; and -though I suspect the number of his victims was exaggerated, yet I have -no doubt whatever that he did not make himself out to be a murderer -without some good grounds; and, I confess, it gave me very little regret -to hear, a year or two afterwards, that he had perished on the scaffold. - -The road to Sanona enters the mountains soon after leaving Los Barrios, -ascending, for the first few miles, along the bank of the river -Palmones. The scenery is very fine; huge masses of scarped and jagged -sierras are tossed about in the most fantastic irregularity, whilst the -valleys between are clad with a luxuriance of foliage that can be met -with only in this prolific climate. - -Looking back, the silvery Palmones may be traced winding between its -wooded banks towards the bay of Gibraltar, which, viewed in this -direction, has the appearance of a vast lake; the African shore, from -Ape's Hill to the promontory of Ceuta, seeming to complete its enclosure -to the south. - -After proceeding some miles further, the road becomes a mere -mule-track, and the country very wild and barren. The Piedmontese march -had been gradually _crescendo_ ever since leaving the cultivated valley -of the Palmones, and Damien, as he rode on before us, had already given -sundry yet more palpable intimations of impending danger,--firstly, by -examining the priming of his old flint gun,--secondly, by trying whether -the balls were rammed home,--and, lastly, by producing a brandy bottle -from his capacious pocket; when, arrived at the foot of a peculiarly -dreary and rocky pass, pulling up and dismounting from his horse, under -pretence of tightening the girths of his saddle, he exclaimed, "_a -present, Messieurs, es preciso cargar--ces laches d'Espagnols viennent -toujours a l'improviste, et se non siamo apparecchiati saremo tutti -inretati come tanti uccellini.--Somos todos muy bien armados con -escopetas a dos canones; y con juicio, no tendremos que temer--ma ... -bisogna giudizio!_"[102] and in accordance with his wishes thus clearly -expressed, we all loaded with ball, and, pushing on an advanced guard, -boldly entered the rugged defile, joining our voices in grand chorus in -the inspiriting grenadier's march. - -On emerging from this rocky gorge, we entered a peculiarly wild and -secluded valley, which, so completely is it shut out from all view, one -might imagine, but for the narrow path under our feet, had never been -trodden by man. The road winds round the heads of numerous dark ravines, -crosses numberless torrents, that rush foaming from the impending sierra -on the left, and is screened effectually from the sun by an impenetrable -covering of oak and other forest-trees, festooned with woodbine, -eglantine, and wild vines; whilst the valley below is clothed, from end -to end, with cistus, broom, wild lavender, thyme, and other indigenous -aromatic shrubs. - -At the end of about three leagues, we reached the head of the valley, -where one of the principal sources of the Palmones takes its rise. The -neck of land that divides this stream from the affluents to the Celemin, -is the pass of Sanona. From hence the _Caseria_ is visible, and a rapid -descent of about a mile brought us to the door of the lone mansion. - -Our arrival was announced to the inmates by a general salute from the -countless dogs that invariably form part of a Spanish farmer's -establishment. The horrid din soon brought forth the equally -shaggy-coated bipeds, headed by a venerable-looking old man, who, with a -slight recognition of Damien, stepped to the front, and, in a very -dignified manner, announcing himself as the owner of the _Caseria_, -begged we would alight, and consider his house our own. - -"My habitation is but a poor one, _Caballeros_; the accommodation it -affords yet poorer. I wish for your sakes I had better to offer; but of -this you may rest assured, that every thing _Luis de Castro_ possesses, -will ever be at the service of the brave nation who generously aided, -and by whose side I have fought, to maintain the independence of my -country."--"_Bravo, Don Luis!_" ejaculated Damien, which saved us the -trouble of making a suitable speech in return. - -We were much pleased with our host's appearance: indeed the shape of his -cranium was itself sufficient to secure him the good opinion of all -disciples of Spurzheim; but this feeling of gratification was by no -means called forth by his _Caseria_, from the outward inspection of -which we judged the organ of accommodation to be wofully deficient. - -The house and out-buildings formerly occupied a considerable extent of -ground, but at the present day they are reduced to three sides of a -small square, of which the centre building contains the dwelling -apartments of the family, and the wings afford cover to the retainers, -cattle, and farming implements. A stout wall completes the enclosure on -the fourth side, wherein a wide folding gate affords the only means of -external communication. - -The _Caseria_ has long been possessed by the family of its present -occupant, but, losing something of its importance at each succeeding -generation, has dwindled down to its present insignificant condition. -Don Luis strives hard, nevertheless, to keep up the family dignity of -the De Castros, though joining with patriarchal simplicity in all the -services, occupations, and pastimes, of his dependents. - -The portion of the house reserved for himself and family consists but of -two rooms on the ground-floor. The outer and larger of these serves the -double purpose of a kitchen and refectory; the other is appropriated to -the multifarious offices of a chapel, dormitory, henroost, and granary. -In this inner room we were duly installed,--the lady de Castro, and -other members of the family, removing into a neighbouring _choza_ during -our stay: and a sheet having been drawn over the Virgin and child, the -cocks and hens driven from the rafters, and the Indian corn swept up -into a corner, we found ourselves more _snugly_ lodged than outward -appearances had led us to expect. - -Leaving our friend Damien to make what arrangements he pleased as to -dinner--a discretional power that always afforded him infinite -gratification--we proceeded to examine the "location," with a view of -obtaining some notion of the country which was to be the scene of our -next day's sporting operations. - -The situation of the _Caseria_ is singularly romantic; to the north it -is backed by a richly wooded slope, above which, at the distance of -about half a mile, a rocky ledge of sierra rises perpendicularly several -hundred feet, its dark outline serving as a fine relief to the rich and -varied green tints of the forest. In the opposite direction, the house -commands a view over a wide and partially wooded valley, along the bed -of which the eye occasionally catches a glimpse of a sparkling stream, -that is collected from the various dark ravines which break the lofty -mountain-ridges on either side. A wooded range, steep, but of somewhat -less elevation than the other mountains that the eye embraces, appears -to close the mouth of this valley; but, winding round its foot to the -right, the stream gains a narrow outlet to the extensive plain of Vejer, -and empties itself into the _Laguna de la Janda_--a portion of which may -be seen; and over this intermediate range rise, in the distance, the -peaked summits of the _Sierra de la Plata_, whose southern base is -washed by the Atlantic. - -The beauty of the scenery, heightened by the broad shadows cast upon the -mountains, and the varied tints that ever attend upon a setting sun in -this Elysian atmosphere, had tempted us to continue roaming about, -selecting the most favourable points of view, without once thinking of -our evening meal; and when, at length, the sun disappeared behind the -mountains, we found we had, unconsciously, wandered some considerable -distance from the _Caseria_. We forthwith bent our steps homewards, and, -on drawing near the house, were not a little amused at hearing Damien's -stentorian halloos to draw our attention, which were sent back to him in -echoes from all parts of the _Serrania_. He was right glad to see us, -though vexed at our extreme imprudence in wandering about the woods -without an _escopeta_, or defensive weapon of any sort amongst us. - -"_Messieurs, quand vous connoitrez ces gens ci aussi bien que moi----!_" - -We referred to Don Luis (who had come out with the intention of -proceeding in search of us), whether there were any _mala gente_ in the -neighbourhood. A faint smile played about the old man's mouth as he -looked towards Damien, as if guessing the source from which our -interrogation had sprung, and, then waving his right hand to and fro, -with the forefinger extended upwards, he replied, "_Por aqui Caballeros -no hay mala gente alguna; esa Canalla conoce demasiado quien es Luis de -Castro!_"[103] - -On entering the house, we found a large party assembled round the -charcoal fire, preparing to take their evening _gazpacho_[104] -_caliente_; and, hot as had been the day, we gladly joined the circle, -until our own more substantial supper should be announced. The group -consisted of the wife, son, and daughter-in-law of our host, and several -of his friends, who, living at a distance, had come overnight, to be -ready to take part in the _batida_ on the following morning. - -A _batida_ bears so strong a resemblance to the same sort of thing -common in Germany, and indeed in some parts of Scotland, that a very -detailed account of one would be uninteresting to most of my readers. We -turned out at daybreak, and, recruited by the neighbouring peasantry, -found that we mustered twenty-three guns, and dogs innumerable, mostly -of a kind called by the Spaniards _podencos_, for which the most -appropriate term in our language is lurcher; though that does not -altogether express the strong-made, wiry-haired dog used by the -Spaniards on these occasions. - -As the _camas_[105] about Sanona are very wide, and require a number of -guns to line them, only eleven of the men could be spared for beaters. -These were placed under the direction of Alonzo, our host's son, whilst -Don Luis himself took command of the sportsmen in the quality of -_capitan_; and his first order was to prohibit all squibbing off of -guns, by which the game might be disturbed. - -The two parties, on leaving the house, took different directions. Our's, -after proceeding about a mile, was halted, and enjoined to form in rank -entire, and keep perfectly silent. We then ascended a steep, thickly -coppiced hill, and were placed in position along its crest, at intervals -of about a hundred yards, with directions to watch the openings through -the underwood in our front--to screen ourselves from observation as well -as we could--not to stir from the spot until the signal was made to -retire--and to observe carefully the position of our fellow sportsmen on -either side, to prevent accidents. - -We were much amused at the manner in which Don Luis--to whom we were all -perfect strangers--selected us to occupy the different approaches to the -position. Scanning us over from right to left, and from head to foot, he -seemed to pick and choose his men as if perfectly aware of the peculiar -qualities each possessed, befitting him for the situation in which he -purposed placing him; and, beckoning the one selected out of the rank, -without uttering a word he led him to the assigned post, pointed out the -various openings in the underwood, and gave his final instructions in a -low whisper. - -On leaving me he pointed to a narrow passage between two huge blocks of -rock, and in a low voice said "_Lobo_;"[106] which, I must confess, made -me look about for a tree, as a secure position to fall back upon, in the -event of my fire failing to bring the expected visiter to the ground. - -The position we occupied had a deep ravine in front, a wide valley on -one flank, and a precipitous wall of rock on the other; but, as the -event proved, it was far too extended. Thus posted, we remained for a -considerable time, and I began to think very meanly of the sport, -especially as I did not much like to withdraw my eyes from the rocky -pass where the wolf was to be looked for; but at length the distant -shouts of the beaters resounded through the mountains, and a few minutes -after, the faint but true-toned yelp of one of the hounds put me quite -on the _qui vive_; and when, in a few seconds, other dogs gave tongue, -and several shots were fired by the beaters (who are furnished with -blank cartridge), giving the assurance that game had been sprung, a -feeling of excitement was produced, that can, I think, hardly be -equalled by any other description of sport. - -The first gun from our own party almost induced me to rush forward and -break the line; but, just at the moment, a rustling in the underwood -drew my attention, and, looking up, I saw a fine buck "at gaze," as the -heralds say, about thirty yards off, and exactly in the direction of the -spot where I had seen my friend G---- posted. - -The animal, with ears erect, was listening, in evident alarm, to the -barking of the dogs; yet, from the shot just fired in his front, -scarcely knowing on which side danger was most imminent. I was so -screened by the underwood that he did not perceive me, and I could have -shot him with the greatest ease--that is to say, had my nervous system -been in proper trim,--but that the fear of killing my neighbour withheld -me; so there I stood, with my gun at the first motion of the present, -and there stood the deer, in just as great a _quandary_. - -At length, losing all patience, I hallooed to my neighbour by name, -hoping by his reply to learn whereabouts he was (for that he had moved -from his post was evident), and, if possible, get a shot at the deer as -he turned back, which I doubted not he would do. But, alas! my call -produced no response, and the fine animal bounded forward, breaking -through our line, and rendering it too hazardous for me to salute him -with both barrels, as I had murderously projected. - -Soon after the horn sounded for our reassembly. The _cama_[107] had -been very unsuccessful. One deer only, besides that which visited me, -had been driven through our line; the rest of the herd, and several wild -boars, turned our position by its right, which was too extensive for the -small number of guns. One of the Spaniards had shot a fox, which was all -we had to show; and his companions shook their heads, considering it a -bad omen, and that it was, indeed, likely to turn out "_una dia de -zorras_."[108] - -On my relating the tantalizing dilemma in which I had been placed, old -_Luis_, who felt somewhat sore at the signal failure of his generalship, -declared we should have no sport if I stood upon such ceremony; adding, -with much energy of manner, and addressing himself to the assembled -party, "As soon as ever you see your game, _carajo! candela!_"[109]--a -speech that reminded us forcibly of Suwarrow's reply to his Austrian -coadjutor, when urging the prudence of a _reconnoissance_ before -undertaking some delicate operation, viz.--"_Poussez en avant--chargez a -la bayonette--voila mes reconnoissances._" - -The beaters were now directed to make a "wide cast," and, if possible, -head the game that had escaped us, whilst we moved off to a fresh -position, about half a mile in rear, and perpendicular to the former. -This plan was pretty successful: we killed a wolf and two deer, but Don -Luis was by no means satisfied. - -It was now noon-day, and, ascending a rocky ledge that projects into the -wide valley, already described as lying in front of the house, we -obtained a splendid panoramic view of the whole wooded district of -Sanona. We found, on gaining the summit, that the provident Damien had -directed a _muchacho_ to meet us there, with a mule-load of provender, -which he was pleased to call "_un petit peu de rafraichissement_." We -were quite prepared to acknowledge our sense of his foresight and -discretion in the most unequivocal manner; for the exertion of climbing -the successive mountain-ridges, and forcing our way through the -underwood, as well as the excitement of the sport, had given a keen edge -to our appetites. - -Whilst seated in a convivial circle, smoking our cigars at the -conclusion of our repast, we observed that poor Alonzo--who, though a -stoutly built, was a very sickly-looking man--appeared to be quite -exhausted from the heat and fatigue of the day, and that poor old Luis -looked from time to time on his son, as he lay full-length upon the -ground, with a heart-rending expression of grief. - -One of our party remarked to him, that Alonzo did not appear to be well, -and suggested that he had better not exert himself further. Don Luis -shook his head. "Alas! senor!" he replied, "my poor Alonzo is as well as -ever he again will be. But do not suppose that he is a degenerate scion -of the De Castros; nor even that I regret seeing him in his present -state. No: much as I once wished to see the family name handed down to -another generation--of which there is now no chance--I would rather, -much rather, that he should have sacrificed his health--his life -indeed--for his country, than that any vain wish of mine should be -gratified." - -Our curiosity excited by the words, and yet more by the manner of the -old man, we ventured, after some little preamble, to ask what had -occasioned the change in his son that his speech implied. - -"It is a long story, _caballeros_," he answered; "but, as the sun is now -too powerful to allow us to resume our sport, I will, if you feel -disposed to listen to a garrulous old man, relate the circumstances that -led to my son's being reduced to the lamentable state in which you see -him." We contracted the circle round Don Luis, the Spaniards, -apparently, quite as intent on hearing the thrice-told tale as -ourselves; and Damien, though still busily occupied at his -"_rafraichissement_," also lending an attentive ear. - -The fine old man was seated on a rock, elevated somewhat above the rest -of the party, holding in his right hand his uncouth-looking -fowling-piece, whilst the other rested on the head of a favourite dog, -that came, seemingly, to beg his master to remonstrate with Damien for -using his teeth to tear off the little flesh that remained on a -ham-bone. - -Don Luis, after patting the impatient favourite on the head and bidding -him lie down, thus began his story. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -LUIS DE CASTRO. - -"_Tiene este caso un no se que de sombra de adventura de -Caballeria._"--DON QUIJOTE. - - -I need not tell enlightened Englishmen--commenced Don Luis--that the -name I bear is no common one. The Caseria which you there see, and all -the shady glens we here look down upon, were granted to the renowned De -Castro, whose valour so materially aided the Catholic kings, of blessed -memory, in the pious work of extirpating the vile followers of the -Arabian Impostor from the soil of Spain; and the patrimony thus acquired -by my ancestor's sword has been handed down from generation to -generation to me,--too likely, alas! to be the last of the race to -inherit it. - -I married early in life, and was blessed with several children. Alonzo, -the first-born, was the only one permitted to reach maturity,--but I -repine not. They were all healthy, and every thing a parent could wish. -Years rolled on unmarked by any events of importance. Our days were -passed in attending to our herds; our evenings, in singing and dancing -to the notes of the wild guitar. Our festivals were devoted to the -exhilarating sport we have this morning been following; nor did we, -amidst our happiness, neglect to offer up our thanks to the Omnipotent -Deity, who,--through the propitiating influence of our patron -saints--was pleased to pour his blessings upon us. - -But a storm arose, which, for a time, shook our happy country to its -foundation. Spain became the object of a vile tyrant's insatiable -ambition. The perfidious Corsican, under the specious plea of -friendship, marched his licentious legions into our devoted country: and -having, by shameless deceit, first possessed himself of all our -strongholds, threw off the mask, and treated us as a conquered nation. - -This favoured province was, for some considerable time saved from the -desolation that wasted the rest of Spain, by the heroism of one of her -sons:--the brave Castanos hastened to place himself at the head of the -national troops, and in the defiles of the Sierra Morena, captured a -whole French army. But jealousy and intrigue--the greatest enemies our -country had to contend against--caused his services to be requited with -ingratitude. Another French army advanced, but we had not another -Castanos to oppose it. The enemy forced the barriers with which nature -and art had defended the province, and, like a swarm of locusts, spread -over and consumed the rich produce of its fertile fields. - -The mountaineers of Ronda and Granada, engaged in the vile contraband -trade which the disorganized state of the country favoured, were slow to -take up arms against the invaders, but "_Io y mi gente_" (I and my -people) were early in the field, harassing their parties conveying -supplies to the siege of Cadiz, as well as protecting the surrounding -country from their predatory visits; and our secluded _Caseria_ afforded -a secure retreat to the inhabitants of the plain, when forced to abandon -their hearths. - -I will not take up your time with the account of the various encounters -we had with the enemy--they are well known throughout the Serrania--but -will confine my narrative to what more particularly concerns my son. - -On one occasion, fortune presented him with an opportunity of saving a -party of the king's troops, who had got entangled in the intricacies of -the Serrania; his knowledge of the country having enabled him to lead -them clear of their pursuers, and bring them safely to the _Caseria_. - -Disappointed of the prey they had so confidently calculated upon, and -uneasy at a body of disciplined troops being added to our _guerilla_, -and established so close to them, the enemy determined on sending a -large force to root us out of our fastness. We, on our parts, hoping -that the French were unconscious of the place where the troops had found -a refuge, were meditating an attack upon their post of Alcala, when the -storm burst suddenly upon our heads, and, but for the devotedness and -presence of mind of my gallant son, would have involved us all in one -common destruction. - -Alonzo had gone off to reconnoitre in the direction of Tarifa, a rumour -having reached us that the enemy had invested that place; and we were -anxiously awaiting his return to decide upon our plans, when, soon after -nightfall, a lad belonging to the _Venta de Tabilla_ arrived at the -_Caseria_ on my son's horse, and in hurried words, informed me that a -large body of French troops was advancing upon the house. - -The enemy had forced this lad,--who alone had been left in charge of the -_Venta_,--to be their guide, and he had already conducted them across -the swamps at the head of the _Laguna de la Janda_, and was within a -hundred yards of the road leading from Tarifa to Casa Vieja--by keeping -along which to the left, he purposed gaining the shortest road into our -sequestered valley--when Alonzo crossed the path immediately in front of -them. - -From what we learnt afterwards it appeared, that he had been for some -time watching the enemy's movements, and, guessing from the direction -they had finally taken, whither they were bound, had thus purposely -thrown himself in their way; resolved--cut off as he found himself from -the shortest road to the _Caseria_--to take this hazardous step to save -us from a surprise. - -On being questioned as to his knowledge of the country, he at once -offered to guide them to the _Caseria_. "This is your way," he said, -pointing in the direction, whence he had just come, "but yonder is my -house," motioning with his head towards the _Cortijo de le las Habas_; -which, though about half a mile off, was yet visible in the dusk; "I -will send my jaded horse home by the boy, and accompany you on foot." - -The commanding officer, to whom this was addressed, made no objection; -in fact, he probably thought that their guide would be more in their -power without his horse. - -Alonzo gave his beast to the lad, saying significantly, "_Juanillo_, -tell my father I have fallen in with some friends and shall not be at -home for some little time; be quick; make your way back to the venta -without delay, as soon as you have delivered my message; and, as you -value your life,--no babbling." - -My son then turned off to the right, taking the best but far the most -circuitous route into the valley of Sanona, whilst _Juanillo_, putting -his horse into a canter, proceeded in the direction of the _Cortijo de -las Habas_, but, ere reaching it, struck into the difficult pass you see -below there, whence a rude foot-path leads direct to the _Caseria_, and -by which he had intended to conduct the enemy. - -It seemed to us--what indeed proved to be the case--that my son's -message was intended to hint to us the necessity for flight, and -_Juanillo's_ account of the number of the enemy, would fully have -warranted our avoiding an encounter; but, thinking Alonzo's life would -surely pay the forfeit of our escape, we determined to anticipate their -attack and give him a chance of saving himself. - -Prudence suggested the propriety of sending away our women and children. -Mounting them, therefore, on _borricos_, we hurried them off by the -mountain path to the _Casa de Castanas_, or _de las Navas_, as it is -otherwise called, from the name of its proprietor--a solitary house, -situated in a wooded valley, several miles to the north of Sanona. - -The women had scarcely left the _Caseria_, ere we heard the distant -tramp of horses in the valley below. Leaving a part of the soldiers to -defend the house, I led the rest, and my own people, out as silently as -possible, and posted them on the upper side of the path by which the -French were advancing. The enemy halted directly under the muzzles of -our guns, and a corporal and two dragoons were sent on to the house to -ask for a night's lodging. - -Nothing could be more favourable than the opportunity now presented for -attacking them, but I hesitated to give the word until I had discovered -my son, anxious as well to give him a chance of escape, as to save him -from our own fire. At last I recognised him: he was standing at the side -of the commander of the party, who, with a pistol in his hand, was -questioning him in a low tone of voice. - -The corporal now thundered at the gate of the _Caseria_. "_Quien es?_" -demanded the soldiers from within. I listened to no more; for, observing -that the commander's attention was for the moment attracted to the -proceedings of his advanced guard, and that Alonzo, in consequence, was -comparatively out of his reach, "_Candela!_" I cried out to my people, -directing, at the same time, my own unerring rifle at the head of the -French captain. - -Twenty guns answered to the word. The commander of the enemy fell -headlong to the earth; his horse sprung violently off the ground, -reared, staggered, and fell back; a dozen Frenchmen bit the dust; the -rest turned and fled, ere we could reload our pieces. - -I pressed forward to embrace my brave son, but saw him not. I called him -by name, but a faint groan was the only reply I received. I turned in -the direction of the sound, and found the Frenchman's horse, struggling -in the agonies of death, upon the bleeding body of my Alonzo. He had -been wounded in the breast by the Frenchman's pistol, the trigger of -which had, apparently, been pressed in the convulsive movement -occasioned by his death-wound. The horse had been shot by one of our -men, had fallen upon Alonzo, and broken several of his ribs. We conveyed -him to the house, without a hope of his recovery. - -In the excess of my grief, I thought not of sending after the women. -Alonzo was the first to bring me to a sense of my remissness, by -enquiring for his wife and child. I expressed my joy at hearing him -speak, for he had lain many hours speechless. He pressed my hand, and -added, "Father, I wish to see them once again before I die--to have a -mother's blessing also--for I feel my end approaching." - -I instantly despatched four of my people to the _Casa de Castanas_ to -escort them back, for I recollected that the three Frenchmen who had -been sent forward to demand admission to the house, had effected their -escape, and must be, wandering about the mountains. - -The sun had risen some hours, and yet no tidings reached us of them. I -began to feel very uneasy. A terrible presentiment disturbed me. I went -to the iron cross that stands on the mound in front of our house, whence -a view is obtained of the pass leading to _Las Navas_. I heard a wild -scream, that pierced my very soul, and the moment after, caught a -glimpse of a female figure, hastening with mad speed down the rocky path -leading to the _Caseria_. It was my daughter-in-law, Teresa! - -"See," she exclaimed, with frantic exultation, showing me her hands -stained with blood, "see--I killed him! my knife pierced the heart of -the murderer of my child! I killed the vile Frenchman! The wife of a De -Castro ever carries a knife to avenge her wrongs--to defend her honour!" - -That some terrible catastrophe had happened was too evident, but from -the unhappy maniac it was impossible to gather any thing definite. - -I mounted my horse, and rode with the speed of desperation towards the -_Casa de Castanas_, but had not proceeded far ere I met my people -returning, bearing my wife on a litter, and accompanied by two only of -the women who had accompanied her, mounted on _borricos_. - -"Dead?" I asked. It was the only word I could utter. - -"No, Luis," replied one of my faithful followers, "not dead, and, we -hope, not even seriously hurt; but evil has befallen your house--your -three young children and your grandson are lost to you for ever." - -"Lost! murdered? This is, indeed, a heavy blow, a severe trial. Perhaps -I am now childless;--God's will be done." - -"Proceed gently to the _Caseria_ with your burthen; I will hasten -forward, and send assistance, and such cordials as may be required to -restore my Ana." - -On my return I was surprised to see Alonzo sitting up, and his wife at -his bedside. I cannot describe the joy of that moment; but there was a -fearful expression of determination in my son's contracted brows, that -almost led me to fear for his mind. He turned to me for explanation, but -as yet I could give him none. The party shortly arrived, however, and -the women gave us a full account of the overwhelming disaster that had -befallen us. - -On leaving the _Caseria_ they had proceeded with such speed as the -darkness of the night permitted, towards the _Casa de Castanas_, and had -reached within a quarter of a league of the house, when the trampling of -horses behind them, spread the greatest alarm amongst these defenceless -females. It was clear that those who were in pursuit could not be their -friends, otherwise they would call to them to return; and concluding -therefore, that the enemy had prevailed at the _Caseria_, naturally -considered their danger imminent. - -My wife and daughter-in-law, with their children, and three of the -women, being well mounted, pressed forward to the solitary house for -shelter; the others, finding the Frenchmen--whom they could now hear -conversing--gaining rapidly upon them, with more good fortune took to -the woods; and, as we eventually learnt, reached Los Barrios in safety. - -On arriving at the _Casa de Castanas_, it was found to be totally -abandoned. They had barely time to close the outer gate, and shut -themselves up in a loft,--that could be ascended only by a ladder, and -through a trap-door, which they let fall--before their pursuers rode up -to the house. At first the Frenchmen civilly demanded admission; but -this being refused, they--guessing, probably, how the case stood, from -none but female voices replying to their demands--proceeded to threaten -to force an entrance. - -My daughter-in-law, who speaks a few words of French, then appeared at -the window; told them it was an abandoned house, and contained -absolutely nothing, not even refreshment for their horses; that, by -keeping down the valley to the left, they would, in less than an hour, -reach the _Hermita of El Cuervo_, where they would find all they might -stand in need of. - -The beauty of her who addressed them--for in those days my -daughter-in-law was a lovely young woman of eighteen--awakened the most -lawless of passions in these ruthless profligates. Affecting, however, -to disbelieve her statement of the unprovided condition of the house, -they forced open the outer gate, and, after vainly endeavouring to -persuade the terrified females to descend from their place of refuge, -collected all the straw and other combustible articles that were -scattered about the premises, in the apartment beneath, and threatened -to set fire to the house. - -In vain was appeal made to their clemency, to the boasted gallantry of -their nation, to every honourable feeling that inhabits the breast of -man. And at length, exasperated at the determination of these devoted -women, and possibly--it is a compliment I am willing to pay human -nature--thinking that a little smoke would soon induce them to descend, -the reckless monsters fired the straw. The whole building was quickly -enveloped in flames. - -For some minutes the unhappy beings above thought that the straw, being -damp, would not ignite so as to communicate with the wooden rafters of -the floor which supported them, and hoped that they were free from -danger; but the smoke which ascended soon, of itself, became -intolerable. Two of my children dropped on the floor from the effects -of suffocation; and one of women, taking her infant in her arms, jumped -from the window and was killed on the spot. - -My daughter-in-law, seeing that for herself there was but a choice of -death,--for the flames had now burst through the crackling -floor,--determined to make an effort to save her child. Pressing him to -her bosom, and covering him with her shawl to protect him from the -flames in her descent, she lifted the trap-door and placed her foot upon -the ladder. The fire had yet spared the upper steps, but ere she reached -the bottom the charred wood gave way, and she fell. The child escaped -from her arms and rolled amongst the blazing straw; she started upon her -feet to save him, but the rude hand of one of the ruffians seized and -dragged her from the flames into the court-yard. Vainly she implored to -be allowed to go to the rescue of her helpless infant; the monster--even -at such a moment looking upon his victim with the eyes of lust--would -not listen to her heart-rending appeals. The agonizing screams of her -writhing offspring gave her superhuman strength; she seized her knife; -plunged it deep in the Frenchman's breast; and, released from his -paralyzed arms, rushed back into the flames. - -Alas! it was too late--nothing but the blackened skeleton now remained -of her darling child. - -She darted, with the fury of a tigress robbed of its young, upon one of -the other Frenchmen, but he disarmed her, and, with a returning feeling -of humanity, forbore inflicting any further injury upon the frantic -woman; and, after some apparent altercation with his companion, both -mounted their horses and rode away. They were just in time to make their -escape, as the four men I had despatched rode up to the front gate of -the house, as they went off by the other. - -One of my people was an inhabitant of the _Casa de Castanas_, and -knowing the premises, quickly brought a ladder from a place of -concealment, and applied it to the window of the burning portion of the -building. My wife and the other two women were brought down safely, -though all more or less scorched, but the floor gave way before the -children, who were lying in an insensible state from suffocation, could -be removed. - -I despatched an indignant remonstrance to the French general, on the -inhuman conduct of his troops towards helpless women and children; and -threatened, if the perpetrators were not signally punished, to hang -every one of his countrymen that might fall into my hands, but he never -deigned to answer my letter. - -Some weeks elapsed after these events, ere Alonzo could leave his couch; -and the enemy seemed now so fully occupied in pressing the siege of -Cadiz, that we were led to believe they entertained no idea of paying -the _Caseria_ a second visit. - -Want of provisions, and still more of ammunition, had hitherto prevented -our being of much service, in harassing the enemy during their -operations; but, having obtained supplies from Algeciras, I determined -to follow up my remonstrance with a blow, and mustering all our -strength, to make an attempt to carry the enemy's post at _Casa Vieja_. - -For this purpose I fixed on the _Casa de Castanas_ for the general -rendezvous; that spot being more conveniently situated than Sanona, for -those who were to join our ranks from Castellar, Ximena, and other -places, and equally as near the projected point of attack. - -At the appointed day, I proceeded with my people to the place of -concentration. Alonzo had insisted on accompanying us, though yet hardly -able to cross a horse; but he thirsted for the blood of the destroyers -of his child and brothers. On reaching the _Casa de Castanas_, however, -his strength failed him, and he was obliged to remain there. - -Leaving _Pepito_, who sits there, then a beardless boy, to tend upon -Alonzo, and accompany him back to Sanona on the morrow, we departed on -our expedition. - -The chapel and few houses which compose the village of _Casa Vieja_, -are situated on the brow of a high hill overlooking a wide plain, -watered by the river Barbate. Not a bush interrupts the view for several -miles in any direction, so that to approach the place some -circumspection was requisite. I halted my men in the woods bordering the -Celemin--on the very spot, perhaps, where Muley Aben Hassan, King of -Granada, fixed his camp, when he sallied forth from Malaga to plunder -the estates of the Duke of Medina Sidonia--and sent one of my most -trustworthy followers on to reconnoitre, purposing, if a favourable -report was received, to make an attack at the point of day, trusting to -the shadows of night to conceal our march across the open plain. - -Our scout returned only a couple of hours before dawn. He had -experienced much difficulty in fording the Barbate, which was swollen by -recent rains. He brought us the startling news, that a considerable -French force had left Alcala de los Gazules, the preceding day, to -penetrate into the mountains, and was now probably in our rear, either -at the _Casa de Castanas_ or at Sanona. - -It was necessary to fall back immediately. We were at the fork of the -roads leading from those two places to _Casa Vieja_, but on which should -we direct our march? My heart whispered, to the former, where my Alonzo, -the last of my race, was left defenceless; but the wives and families -of my companions were all at Sanona, and duty bade me hasten thither for -their protection. The struggle of my feelings was severe, but short. I -sent a trusty friend on a swift horse to save Alonzo, if time yet -permitted, and hurried the march of my troop to the _Caseria_. We -reached it in three hours. - -We found every thing as we had left it. Those who had remained there had -neither seen nor heard anything of the enemy, but my son had not -returned home. I now regretted not having proceeded to the _Casa de -Castanas_, and proposed to my wearied men to march on and attack the -_Gavachos_ in their passage through the passes, fully expecting they -would now direct their steps to the _Caseria_. They acceded to my -proposal with _vivas_. A cup of wine and a mouthful of bread were given -to each, and we were off. - -We had not yet gained the pass yonder, at the back of the house, when we -met the man I had sent to the _Casa de Castanas_, coming towards us at -full speed. He informed us that he had encountered the French when on -his way to _Las Navas_, directing their march towards _Casa Vieja_. -Fortunately escaping their observation, he had concealed himself in a -thicket whilst they passed. _Pepito_--whom, it will be recollected, I -had left with Alonzo--was walking by the side of one of their officers, -undergoing a strict examination respecting our movements, &c. They had -several other prisoners in charge, who were tied together in couples, -but he could not distinguish Alonzo amongst them. My son's favourite -dog, _Hubilon_, however, brought up the rear, led by one of the -marauders; and the faithful creature's oft-averted head and restive -attempts to escape, sufficiently proved that his master had been left -behind. - -Under this conviction, he had pushed on to the _Casa de Castanas_ as -soon as the enemy were out of sight, and had thoroughly searched every -part of the building; but not a living being did it contain. The pigeons -even had deserted it, or, more probably, had been sacrificed, for -feathers and bones were scattered about on all sides, the smoke of -numerous fires darkened the white-washed walls, and the stains of wine -were left on the stone pavement, proving that the house had lately been -the scene of a deep carouse. - -From this account, it was evident that the Frenchmen had marched upon -our track in the hope of taking us between two fires, and it was most -fortunate we had returned to Sanona, instead of falling back upon the -_Casa de Castanas_; for the superiority of their number, in a chance -encounter, would have given them every advantage. - -It was probable that the enemy would now continue their pursuit in -hopes of taking us by surprise at Sanona; we countermarched immediately -therefore, and passing the _Caseria_, took up a strong position about -two miles beyond it, on the road to _Casa Vieja_, where we waited for -the enemy. - -We were not mistaken in our supposition, for scarcely were my men -posted, when the French advance appeared in sight. I allowed them to -approach to within pistol shot, and gave them a volley. My men were -scattered among the bushes, so that the extent of our fire made our -force appear much larger than it was in reality. We killed and wounded -several. - -The enemy paused, and seeing by their numbers that if they pushed boldly -on, resistance on our parts would be vain, I determined to try and -intimidate them; and taking for this purpose eight or ten active -fellows, we made our way through the brushwood which covered the hill -side on our left, and opened a flank fire upon the main body of the -enemy; who, imagining a fresh column had come to take part in the -action, fell back in some confusion to a place of greater security, and -one where they had more space to deploy their strength. - -We had effectually succeeded in frightening them, however, and no -further attempt was made to force our position; but it was not until the -next day that they finally left the mountains and retired to their -fortified posts of Casa Vieja and Alcala. - -No sooner had I seen them fairly out of the Serrania, than I retraced my -steps with all possible speed to Sanona; still indulging the fond hope -that Alonzo might have made his escape and reached home; but, -disappointed in this expectation, I proceeded on without loss of time to -the _Casa de Castanas_. - -I had scarcely entered the house ere I was greeted by "_Hubilon_,"--ay, -my good dog, said Don Luis, caressing his pet, your grandsire--who -evidently had come on the same errand as myself. But our search was -fruitless. The well, the vaults, the lofts and out-houses, every place, -was ransacked, but I discovered nothing to lead to the belief that -Alonzo had either been left there or been murdered. I mounted my horse -to return home, and had proceeded some little way, when I heard the howl -of _Hubilon_. Thinking I had inadvertently shut him in the house, I sent -back one of my companions to release him, but he returned, saying that -the dog would not leave the spot. I returned myself, but the sagacious -animal was not to be enticed away; he gave evident signs of pleasure at -seeing me, and began scratching furiously at the boarded floor of one of -the interior apartments. I approached to see what it was that excited -his attention, and discovered a trap door. With some little difficulty -I raised it up, and _Hubilon_ instantly leapt into the dark abyss. His -piteous whining soon informed me that he had found the body of his -master; a light was struck; I let myself down, and on the stone floor of -the cold, damp vault lay the body of my unfortunate son; his hands were -tied behind his back, and a handkerchief was drawn across his mouth to -stifle his cries! - -To me it appeared that the spirit of my Alonzo had long left its earthly -tenement, but the affectionate brute, by licking his master's face, -proved that life was not yet entirely extinct. Assisted by my -companions, I lifted my son out of the noxious vault, and, by friction, -a dram of _aguadiente_, and exposure to the sun and a purer atmosphere, -animation was gradually restored; and in the course of a few days he was -able to bear the journey home; but from the effects of this confinement -he has never recovered. - -He had no recollection of any of the circumstances which preceded his -incarceration. A raging fever, brought on by fatigue and exposure to the -sun in his previously weak state, had affected his brain, as well as -deprived him of all strength. But _Pepito_ (who rejoined us a few days -after,) stated, that Alonzo himself, in his delirium, had declared to -the French on their arrival, who he was, and had besought them to put -an end to his sufferings. The superior officer of the party had -directed, however, that he should not be ill-treated; "what if he be the -son of the _old wild boar_?" (the name by which they honoured me,) said -he to his men; "we came not to murder our enemies in cold blood--carry -him into the house and let him die in peace." - -_Pepito_ guessed by the malignant glance of one Italian-looking -scoundrel--"I ask your pardon, Senor Damien," said Don Luis, in a -parenthesis; "_servitore umilissimo_," replied he of the _Val -d'Aosta_.--_Pepe_ guessed, I say, by the look that he who stepped -forward to execute the orders of his officer gave one of his companions, -whom he invited to assist him, that their superior's humane intentions -would not be fulfilled; he begged hard, therefore, to be allowed to -remain and wait upon his young master. "Impossible," replied the -officer, "you must be our guide." - -The two men were absent but a few minutes, and then came out of the -house and informed the officer that they had placed the rebel chief in -the coolest place they could find; probably their fear of Alonzo's cries -had deterred them from killing him outright. - -The abominable cruelties of these dastards exasperated every one. The -expedition which was at this time undertaken to raise the siege of Cadiz -promised to afford us a favourable opportunity of taking vengeance; but -the cowardice of a Spaniard--the cowardice, if not treason, of a Spanish -general--marred our fair prospects. The glorious field of Barrosa decked -with fresh laurels the brows of our brave allies; but, to this day, the -very name fills the breast of every loyal Spaniard with shame. Oh! that -I and my people had been thereto share the danger and glory of that day; -but we fulfilled with credit the part allotted to us. In the plan -adopted by the allied generals it was settled that the _Serranos_, -should make a diversion in the direction of _Casa Vieja_ and _Alcala de -los Gazules_, to draw the enemy's attention on that side, whilst their -combined forces should proceed along the coast to Chiclana; accordingly -_io y mi gente_.... - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - DON LUIS'S NARRATIVE IS INTERRUPTED BY A BOAR--THE BATIDA - RESUMED--DEPARTURE FROM SANONA--ROAD TO CASA VIEJA--THE PRIEST'S - HOUSE--ADVENTURE WITH ITINERANT WINE-MERCHANTS--DEPARTURE FROM CASA - VIEJA--ALCALA DE LOS GAZULES--ROAD TO XIMENA--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR. - - -The old man, excited by the stirring recollections of the eventful times -to which his narrative referred, his eyes sparkling with animation, and -his words flowing somewhat more rapidly than in their wonted even -current, had risen from his rocky seat, and, having transferred his -fowling-piece to the left hand, was standing with his right arm extended -in the direction of the scene of his former exploits, when he suddenly -dropt his voice, and, after slowly, and, as it appeared to us, -abstractedly, repeating his favourite expression, "_Io y mi gente_," he -ceased altogether to speak, and appeared transfixed to the spot. His -right arm remained stretched out towards Cadiz, and his head was turned -slightly to one side, but the only motion perceptible was a tightening -of the fingers round the barrel of his long gun. - -As if from the effect of sympathy, Damien's jaws--which for the last -hour had been keeping _Hubilon_ in a state of tantalization, threatening -to produce St. Vitus's dance--suddenly became equally motionless; his -huge proboscis was turned on one side for a moment to allow free access -to his left ear, and then starting up he exclaimed, "_Javali! -cospetto!_"[110] - -"_Quiet ... o!_" said Don Luis, in an undertone, at the same time -motioning Damien to resume his seat, "_Si, es una puerca_."[111] And -then making signs to his men, they rose without a word, and went -stealthily off down the hill. - -We now distinctly heard the grunting of a pig, and were hastily -distributed in a semicircle, along the crest of the steep ridge we had -selected for our resting-place. We had scarcely got into position before -the cries of the beaters, and several shots fired in rapid succession, -gave us notice that they had come in sight of the chase; but the sounds -died away, and we were beginning to speak to each other in terms of -disappointment, when a loud grunt announced the vicinity of a visiter. -Hearing our voices, however, he went off at a tangent, and attempted to -cross the ridge lower down; but this was merely, as the Spaniards say, -"_Escapar del trueno y dar en el relampago_:"[112] a sharp fire there -opened upon him, and after various trips he was fairly brought to the -ground. Our _couteaux de chasse_ were instantly brandished, but the -grisly monster, recovering himself quickly, once more got into a long -trot, and, most probably, would have effected his escape, but that he -was encountered and turned back by some of the dogs. Finding himself -thus pressed on all sides by enemies, he again attempted to force the -line of sportsmen, and a second time was made to bite the dust. He -managed, nevertheless, to recover himself once more, and might, even yet -possibly, have got away from us but for the dogs, which hung upon and -detained him until some of the beaters came up and despatched him with -their knives; not, however, until he had killed one dog outright, and -desperately gored two others. The dogs showed extraordinary _pluck_ in -attacking him. - -On examining the huge monster, we found he had received no less than -four bullets: two in the neck, and two in the body. A fire was -immediately kindled, and, having been singed, to destroy the vermin -about him, he was decorated with laurel and holly, placed on the back of -a mule, and, with the rest of our spoils, sent off to the _Caseria_. - -The beaters informed us, that they had seen the wild sow and four young -ones, which Don Luis had sent them after; but that they had made off -through the wooded valley to the right, ere they could succeed in -heading and turning them up the hill. - -It was decided that we should proceed immediately after them, and leave -the conclusion of Don Luis's tale for the charcoal fire-circle in the -evening; but, as the rest of his story related principally to events -that are well known, and was all "_Santiago y cierra Espana_,"[113] I -will spare my readers the recital. - -The rest of the day's sport was poor, but the grand and ever-varying -mountain scenery was of itself an ample reward for the fatigue of -scrambling up the steep braes. Towards sunset we retraced our steps, -thoroughly tired, to the _Caseria_. Damien, mounting a stout mule, rode -on to prepare dinner, saying, "_Messieurs, sans doute, desireront gouter -du chevreuil de Sanone; vado avanti con questo motivo, e subito, subito, -all red-dy"_;[114] and, digging his heels into the animal's side, he -thereupon started off at a jog-trot, his huge feet sticking out at right -angles, like the paddle-boxes of a steamer, the smoke of a cigar rolling -away from his mouth, like the clouds from the steamer's tall black -funnel. - -On the following morning we departed from Sanona, taking the road to -Casa Vieja, and sending our game into Gibraltar. - -Don Luis would on no account receive any remuneration for the use of his -house, &c.; and a very moderate sum satisfied the beaters he had engaged -for us. - -The distance to Casa Vieja is about twelve miles, the country wild and -beautiful; but the view, after gaining a high pass, about three miles -from Sanona, is confined to the valley along which the road thenceforth -winds, until it reaches the river Celemin. This stream is frequently -rendered impassable by heavy rains. Emerging now from the woods and -mountains, the road soon reaches the Barbate, which river, though -running in a broad and level valley, is of a like treacherous character -as the Celemin. - -The little chapel and hamlet, whither we were directing our steps, now -became visible, being situated under the brow of a high hill on the -opposite bank of the river, and distant about a mile and a half. The -road across the valley is very deep in wet weather, and the Barbate is -often so swollen, as to render it necessary, in proceeding from Casa -Vieja to the towns to the eastward, to make a wide circuit to gain the -bridges of Vejer or Alcala de los Gazules. - -We "put up" at the house of the village priest, which adjoins the -chapel. Indeed the portion of his habitation allotted to our use was -under the same roof as the church, and communicated with it by a private -door; and I have been credibly informed that, on some occasions, when -the party of sportsmen has been large, beds have been made up within the -consecrated walls of the chapel itself, whereon some of the visiters -have stretched their wearied heretical limbs and rested their _aching_ -heads. In our case there was no occasion to lead the _Padre_ into the -commission of such a sin, since the small apartment given up to us was -just able to contain four stretchers, in addition to a large table. - -The priest was another "_amigo mio de mucha aprec'ion_"[115] of Senor -Damien. Their friendship was based upon the most solid of all -foundations--mutual interest; for, it being an understood thing that the -accommodation, and whatever else we might require, was to be paid for at -a fixed rate, both parties were interested in prolonging our stay: the -_Padre_, to gain wherewith to shorten the pains of purgatory, either for -himself or others; Damien, simply because he liked shooting better than -even baking in this world. - -To us also this was an agreeable arrangement, since it granted us a -dispensation from all ceremony in ordering whatever we wanted, and gave -us also the privilege of making the Padre's house our home as long as we -pleased. Accordingly, finding the sport good, we passed several days -here very pleasantly. The snipe and duck shooting in the marshes -bordering the Barbate is excellent; francolins, bustards, plover, and -partridges, are to be met with on the table-lands to the westward of the -village; and the woods towards Alcala and Vejer abound, at times, in -woodcocks. - -An adventure befel me during our short stay at Casa Vieja, which I -relate, as affording a ludicrous exemplification of the power of -flattery--an openness to which, that is to say, vanity, is certes the -great foible of the Spanish character. - -I had devoted one afternoon to a solitary ride to Vejer, (which town is -about eleven miles from Casa Vieja,) and had proceeded some little -distance on my way homewards, when, observing a very curious bird on a -marshy spot by the road-side, I dismounted--knowing my pony would not -stand fire--to take a shot at it. The gun missed fire, as I expected it -would; for, in consequence of its owner not having been able to -discharge it during the whole morning, I had lent him mine to visit the -snipe-marsh, and taken his to bear me company on my ride. The explosion -of the detonating cap was enough, however, to frighten my pony; he -started--jerked the bridle off my arm--and, finding himself free, -trotted away towards Casa Vieja. - -I ran after him for some distance, fondly hoping that the tempting green -herbage on the road-side would induce him to stop and taste, but my -accelerated speed had only the effect of quickening his; from a trot he -got into a canter, from a canter into a gallop; and, panting and -perspiring, I was soon obliged to abandon the chase, and trust that the -animal's natural sagacity would take him back to his stable. - -I had long lost sight of the runaway--for a thick wood soon screened him -from my view,--and had arrived within four miles of Casa Vieja, when I -met a party of very suspicious-looking characters, who, under the -pretence of being itinerant _wine-merchants_, were carrying contraband -goods about the country. They were all very noisy; all, seemingly, very -tipsy; and most of them armed with guns and knives. - -The van was led by a fat Silenus-looking personage, clothed in a shining -goatskin, and seated on a stout ass, between two well-filled skins of -wine; who saluted me with a very gracious wave of the hand, evidently to -save himself the trouble of speaking; but his followers greeted me with -the usual "_Vaya usted con Dios_;" to which one wag added, in an -undertone, "_y sin caballo_,"[116]--a piece of wit that put them all on -the grin. - -Regardless of their joke, I was about to make enquiries concerning my -pony, which it was evident they knew something about, when I discovered -a stout fellow, bringing up the rear of the party, astride of the -delinquent. Considering the disparity of force, and aware of the -unserviceable condition of my weapon, I thought it best to be remarkably -civil, so informing the gentleman riding my beast that I was its owner, -and extremely obliged to him for arresting the fugitive's course, I -requested he would only give himself the further trouble of dismounting, -and putting me in possession of my property. - -This, however, he positively refused to do. "How did he know I was the -owner? It might be so, and very possibly was, but I must go with him to -Vejer, and make oath to the fact before _la Justicia_." This, I said, -was out of the question: it was evident that the horse was mine, since I -had claimed him the moment I had seen him; and as, by his own admission, -he had found the animal, he must have done so out of my sight, since we -were now in a thick wood. If, I added, he chose to return with me to -Casa Vieja, the _Padre_, at whose house I was staying, would convince -him of the truth of my statement, and I would remunerate him for his -trouble. But I argued in vain! "If," he replied, "I felt disposed to -give him an _onza_,[117] he would save _me_ further trouble, but -otherwise justice must take its course." - -I remarked that the _haca_ was not worth much more than a doubloon. -"No!" exclaimed one of the party, jumping off his mule, thrusting his -hand into his belt, and producing _two_, "I'll give you these without -further bargaining." - -This occasioned a laugh at my expense. I turned it off, however, by -telling my friend, that if he would bring his money to Gibraltar we -might possibly deal; but, as I had occasion for my pony to carry me back -there, I could not at that moment conveniently part with him. - -There seemed but slight chance, however, of my recovering my pony -without trudging back to Vejer; and, probably, they would have ridden -off, and laughed at me, after proceeding half way; or by paying a -handsome ransom, which I was, in fact, unable to do, having only the -value of a few shillings about me. - -The dispute was getting warm, and my patience exhausted; for vain were -my representations that the _haca could_ belong to no one else--that the -saddle, bridle, and even the very _tail_ of the animal, were all -English. The Don kept his seat, and coolly asked, whether I thought -they could not make as good saddles, and cut as short tails, in Spain? - -The party had halted during this altercation, and old Silenus, who, by -his dress and position, seemed to be the head of the _firm_, had taken -no part in the dispute. He appeared, indeed, to be so drowsy, as to be -quite unconscious of what was passing. I determined, however, to make an -appeal to him, and summoning the best Spanish I could muster to my aid, -called upon him as a Spanish _hidalgo_, a man of honour, and a person of -sense, as his appearance bespoke, to see justice done me. - -He had heard, I continued, in fact he had _seen_, how the case stood; -and was it to be believed that a foreigner travelling in Spain--perhaps -the most enlightened country in the world--and trusting to the -well-known national probity, should be thus shamefully plundered? An -Englishman, above all others, who, having fought in the same ranks -against a common enemy, looked upon every individual of the brave -Spanish nation as a brother! Could a people so noted for honour, -chivalry, gratitude, and every known virtue, be guilty of so bare-faced -an imposition? - -Oh, "flattery! delicious essence, how refreshing art thou to nature! how -strongly are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side!" - -"_Baj' usted!_" grunted forth Silenus to the man mounted on my pony, -accompanying the words with a circular motion of his right arm towards -the earth. "_Baj' usted luego!_"[118] repeated the irate leader in a -louder tone, seeing that there was a disposition to resist his commands. -"Mount your horse, caballero," he continued, turning to me, "you have -not over-estimated the Spanish character." - -I did not require a second bidding, but, vaulting into the vacated -saddle, pushed my pony at once into a canter, replying to the man's -application for something for his trouble, by observing, that I did not -reward people for merely obeying the orders of their superiors; and, -kissing my hand to the fat old Satyr, rode off, amidst the laughter -occasioned by the discomfiture of the dismounted knight. - -On the morning fixed for our departure from Casa Vieja, Damien came to -us at a very early hour--a smile breaking through an assumed cloudy -expression of countenance--to report that the Barbate was so swollen by -the rain which had fallen without cessation during the night, as to be -no longer fordable: "_Nous pouvons demeurer encore trois ou quatre -jours_," he added, "_car il nous reste de quoi manger--du the, du sucre, -du jambon, un bon morceau de bouilli de rosbif, et autres bagatelles; et -comme il fait beau temps a present, puede ser que havra una entrada de -gallinetas esta noche--no es verdad Senor Padre?_"[119] turning to the -priest, who had followed him into the room. - -We were prepared for this contingency, however, and, stating that we -_must_ go, signified our intention of returning home by way of Alcala de -los Gazules. Damien was horror-struck. "_Corpo di Bacco! Messieurs, -celle la est la plus mauvaise route du pays! e infestata di cattivissima -gente, ad ogni passo. No es verdad, Don Diego, que esa trocha de Alcala -alla 'se llama el camino del infierno!_" "_Si, si_," replied the -priestly lodging-house keeper with a nod, "_tan verdad como la Santa -Escritura._"[120] - -Finding, however, that we were bent on departing, Don Diego went to make -his bill out; and Damien, now truly alarmed, proposed that, at all -events, we should take the shorter and more practicable route homewards, -by way of Vejer. But the name of the other had taken our fancy, and -orders were given accordingly, our departure being merely postponed -until the afternoon; for, as it would be necessary to sleep at Alcala, -which is but nine miles from Casa Vieja, we agreed to have another brush -at the snipes ere leaving the place. - -In the afternoon we set out. At two miles from Casa Vieja the road -crosses a tributary stream to the Barbate, which reached up to our -saddle-girths, and then traverses some wooded hills for about an equal -distance. The rest of the way is over an extensive flat. - -Little is seen of Alcala but an old square tower, and the ruined walls -of its Moorish castle, in approaching it on this side. The town is built -on a rocky peninsulated eminence, which, protruding from a ridge of -sierra that overlooks the place to the east, stretches about a mile in a -southerly direction, and, excepting along the narrow neck that connects -it with this mountain-range, is every where extremely difficult of -access. A road, however, winds up to the town by a steep ravine on the -south-eastern side of the rugged eminence; and a good approach has also -been made, though with much labour, at its northern extremity. The river -Barbate washes the western side of the mound, and across it, and -somewhat above the town--which is huddled together along the northern -crest of the ridge--a solid stone bridge presents itself, where the -roads from Casa Vieja, Medina Sidonia, and Xeres, concentrate. - -The ascent from the bridge, as I have mentioned, is good, but very -steep. The position of the town is most formidable; its walls, however, -are all levelled; and, of the castle, the square tower, or keep, alone -remains. The streets are narrow, but not so steep as we expected to find -them, and they are remarkably well paved. The houses are poor, though -some trifling manufactories of cloths and tanneries give the place a -thriving look. Its population amounts to about 9000 souls. - -_This_ Alcala receives its distinctive name of "_los Gazules_" (i.e. the -Castle of the Gazules), from a tribe of Moors so called; but what Roman -city stood here is a mere matter of conjecture. - -The inn afforded but indifferent accommodation; but our host and hostess -were obliging people, and very good-naturedly made over to us the olla -prepared for their own supper. It was a fine specimen of the culinary -art; the savoury odour alone, that exuded from the bubbling stew, drew a -smile from Damien's unusually lugubrious countenance; and, on afterwards -witnessing the justice we did to its merits, he kindly wished--with a -doubt-implying compression of the lips--that we might have as good an -appetite to enjoy as good a supper on the following night. - -We set out at daybreak, accompanied by a guide, though, I think, we -could have dispensed with his services. The road enters the Serrania, -immediately on leaving Alcala, taking an easterly direction, and -ascends for five miles by a rock-bound valley, partially under -cultivation, and watered by several streams, along which mills are -thickly scattered. On leaving them behind, the country becomes very wild -and desolate; the mountains ahead appear quite impracticable; and, long -ere we reached their base, the Piedmontese march had several times -resounded through the rocky gorges that encompassed us. - -At length we began to scramble up towards a conical pinnacle, called _El -Penon de Sancho_,[121] which presents a perpendicular face, to the -south-west, of some hundreds of feet, and whose white cap, standing out -from the dark sierra behind, is a landmark all along the coast from -Cipiona to Cape Trafalgar. - -We soon attained a great elevation, crossing a pass between the _Penon -de Sancho_ and the main sierra on our left. The view, looking back -towards Cadiz, is magnificent, and the scenery for the next four miles -continues to be of the most splendid kind, the road being conducted -along the side of the great sierra _Monteron_, and by the pass of _La -Brocha_ to the sierra _Cantarera_. - -The road is by no means so bad as, from the name it bears, we were -prepared to expect; in fact, there are many others in the Serrania of a -far more infernal character. After riding about four hours--a distance -of twelve miles--we reached a verdant little vale, enclosed on all sides -by rude mountains, wherein the Celemin takes its rise, and whence it -wends its way through a deep and thickly wooded ravine to the south. -This gullet is called the _Garganta de los Estudientes_, from the -circumstance, as our guide informed us, of some scholars having ventured -down it who never afterwards were heard of--to which story Damien -listened with great dismay. - -We halted at this delightful spot for half an hour, as well to breathe -our horses as to examine the contents of Damien's _alforjas_, who took -his meal, pistol in hand, for fear of a surprise. Continuing our -journey, we had to traverse some more very difficult country, the views -from which were now towards Ximena, Casares, Gibraltar, and the -Mediterranean; including an occasional peep of Castellar, as we advanced -to the eastward. - -At four miles and a half from our resting-place, the road branches into -two, the left proceeding to Ximena (five miles and a half), the other -leading toward Estepona, and the towns bordering the Mediterranean. -Taking the latter path, in about two hours we reached the river -Sogarganta, along the right bank of which is conducted the main road -from Ximena to Gibraltar. - -Damien's countenance brightened on his once more finding himself in "_un -pays reconnu_," and, turning joyfully into the well-known track, he -struck up one of his most _scherzosa_ arias; the heretofore dreaded -_Boca de Leones_ and Almoraima forest (which we had yet to pass), being -robbed of their terrors by the superior dangers we had safely -surmounted; and, in the words of the favourite poet of his country, - - _"Dopo sorte si funesta_ - _Sara placida quest alma_ - _E godra--tornata in calma--_ - _I perigli rammentar."_ - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - DEPARTURE FOR MADRID--CORDON DRAWN ROUND THE CHOLERA--RONDA--ROAD - TO CORDOBA--TEBA--ERRONEOUS POSITION OF THE PLACE ON THE SPANISH - MAPS--ITS LOCALITY AGREES WITH THAT OF ATEGUA, AS DESCRIBED BY - HIRTIUS, AND THE COURSE OF THE RIVER GUADALJORCE WITH THAT OF THE - SALSUS--ROAD TO CAMPILLOS--THE ENGLISH-LOVING INNKEEPER AND HIS - WIFE--AN ALCALDE'S DINNER SPOILT--FUENTE DE PIEDRA--ASTAPA--PUENTE - DON GONZALO--RAMBLA--CORDOBA--MEETING WITH AN OLD ACQUAINTANCE. - - -The next and last excursion of which I purpose extracting some account -from my notebook, was commenced with the intention of proceeding from -Gibraltar to Madrid, late in the autumn of the year 1833; at which time, -the cholera having broken out in various parts of the kingdom of -Seville, it was necessary to "shape a course" that should not subject my -companion and self to the purifying process of a lazaret; a rigid -quarantine system having been adopted by the other kingdoms bordering -the infected territory. - -We hired three horses for the journey; that is to say, for any portion -of it we might choose to perform on horseback: two for ourselves, and -one to carry our portmanteaus, as well as the _mozo_ charged with their -care and our guidance. - -We found, on enquiry, that by avoiding two or three towns lying upon the -road, we could reach Cordoba without deviating much from the direct -route to that city, whence we purposed continuing our journey to the -capital by the diligence. We proceeded accordingly to Ronda, which place -being in the kingdom of Granada, was open to us; and thither I will at -once transport my readers, the road to it having already been fully -described. After sojourning a couple of days at the little capital of -the Serrania, comforting my numerous old and kind friends with the -opinion (which the event, I was happy to find, confirmed), that the new -enemy against which their country had to contend--the dreaded -cholera--would not cross the mountain barrier that defended their city; -we proceeded on our journey, taking the road to Puente Don Gonzalo, on -the Genil, thereby avoiding Osuna, which lay upon the direct road to -Cordoba, but in the infected district. - -In an hour from the time of our leaving Ronda, we crossed the rocky -gulley which has been noticed as traversing the fertile basin in which -the city stands, laterally, bearing the little river Arriate to irrigate -its western half, and in the course of another hour reached the northern -extremity of this fruitful district. The hills here offer an easy egress -from the rock-bound basin; but, though nature has left this one level -passage through the mountains, art has taken no advantage of it to -improve the state of the road, for a viler _trocha_ is not to be met -with, even in the rudest part of the Serrania. - -The view of the rich plain and dark battlements of Ronda is remarkably -fine. - -After winding amongst some round-topped hills, the road at length -reaches a narrow rocky pass, which closes the view of the vale of Ronda, -and a long deep valley opens to the north, the mouth of which appears -closed by a barren mountain, crowned by the old castle of _Teba_. - -The path now undergoes a slight improvement, and, after passing some -singular table-rocks, and leaving the little village of _La Cueva del -Becerro_ on the left, reaches the _venta de Virlan_. We, however, had -inadvertently taken a track that, inclining slightly to the right, led -us into the bottom of the valley, and in about four miles (from the -pass) brought us to the miserable little village of _Serrato_. The -proper road, from which we had strayed, keeps along the side of the -hills, about half a mile off, on the left; and upon it, and three miles -from the first venta, is another, called _del Ciego_. Yet a little -further on, but situated on an elevated ridge overlooking the valley, is -the little town of _Canete la Real_. - -From Serrato our road led us to the old castle of Ortoyecar, ere -rejoining the direct route; which it eventually does, about a mile -before reaching the foot of the mountain of Teba. - -This singular feature is connected by a very low pass with the chain of -sierra on the left, and, stretching from west to east about -three-quarters of a mile, terminates precipitously along the river -_Guadaljorce_. The road, crossing over the pass, and leaving on the -right a steep paved road, that zig-zags up the mountain, winds round to -the west, keeping under the precipitous sides of the ridge, and avoiding -the town of Teba, which, perched on the very summit, but having a -northern aspect, can only be seen when arrived at the north side of the -rude mound; and there another winding road offers the means of access to -the place. - -The base of the mountain is, on this side, bathed by a little rivulet -that flows eastward to the Guadaljorce, called the _Sua de Teba_. It is -erroneously marked on the Spanish maps as running on the south side of -the ridge, but the only stream which is there to be met with, is a -little rivulet that takes its rise near Becerro and waters the valley by -which we had descended; and it does not approach within a mile of Teba, -but sweeps round to the eastward a little beyond the old castle of -Ortoyecar, and discharges itself into the river Ardales. - -The deep-sunk banks and muddy bottom of the _Suda de Teba_, render it -impassable excepting at the bridge. This rickety structure is apparently -the same which existed in the time of Rocca, who, in his "Memoirs of the -War in Spain," gives a very spirited account of the military operations -of the French and _serranos_ in this neighbourhood. - -The locality of Teba is most faithfully described by that author; indeed -I know no one who has given so graphic an account of this part of Spain -generally. - -The ascent to the town on this (the northern) side, is yet more -difficult than that in the opposite direction; but the place will amply -repay the labour of a visit, for the view from it is extremely fine, and -the extensive ruins of its ancient defences, evidently of Roman -workmanship, are well worthy of observation. - -The position of Teba, with reference to other places in the -neighbourhood, and to the circumjacent country, is so inaccurately given -in all maps which I have seen, that the antiquaries seem quite to have -overlooked it as the probable site of _Ategua_, so celebrated for its -obstinate defence against Julius Caesar. - -Morales--without the slightest grounds, as far as the description of the -country accords with the assumption--imagined _Ategua_ to have stood -where he maintains some ruins, "called by the country-people _Teba la -Vieja_," are to be seen between Castro el Rio and Codoba; but, as I -pointed out in the case of Ronda, and Ronda _la Vieja_, it is absurd to -suppose that an _old Teba_ could ever have existed, since Teba itself is -a Roman town, and its present name a mere corruption of that which it -bore in times past. - -Other Spanish authors place _Ategua_ at Castro el Rio, some at Baena, -some elsewhere; but almost all appear anxious to fix its site near the -river Guadajoz, which they have determined, in their own minds, must be -the _Salsus_ mentioned by Hirtius. - -La Martiniere, with his usual _inaccuracy_, says, that the Guadajoz -falls into the _Salado_: he should rather have said, that it is _formed_ -from the confluence of _various salados_; for, as I have elsewhere -observed, salado is a general term for all water-courses, and not the -name of a river.[122] - -It seems, however, probable, that the Romans gave the name _Salsus_ to -some river impregnated with salt, which many streams in this part of -Spain are; and since there is an extensive salt-lake still existing near -Alcaudete, on the very margin of the Guadajoz, that river has hastily -been concluded to be that of the Roman historian. But, it appears -strange, if the Guadajoz be the Salsus of Hirtius, that Pliny, when -describing the course of the Boetis, and the principal streams which -fell into it, should have omitted to mention that river, as being one of -its affluents; for the Salsus, from the recentness of the war between -Caesar and the sons of Pompey, must have been much spoken of in Pliny's -time. - -But what, to me, proves most satisfactorily that the _Guadajoz_ is _not_ -the Salsus, is, that it so ill agrees with the minute description given -of the river by Hirtius himself;--for, in speaking of the Salsus he -says,[123] "It runs through the plains, and _divides_ them from the -mountains, which all lie upon the side of Ategua, at about two miles' -distance from the river;" and again, "But what proved principally -favourable to Pompey's design of drawing out the war, was the nature of -the country, (i. e. about Ategua) full of mountains, and extremely well -adapted to encampments;"[124] and, from what again follows, it is -evident that Ategua stood upon the summit of a mountain. - -Now the Guadajoz nowhere runs so as to _divide_ the plains from the -mountains. It _issues from_ the mountains of Alcala Real, many miles -before reaching Castro el Rio, and between that last-named town and -Cordoba, there is no ground that can be called mountainous. - -The country bordering the Guadajoz, in the lower part of its course, -differs as decidedly with the statement that the neighbourhood of Ategua -was "full of mountains," if we suppose the town to have stood anywhere -_below_ Castro el Rio. - -It is again improbable that Ategua could have stood on the site of the -supposed _Teba la Vieja_, or any place in that neighbourhood, since it -is mentioned[125] as being a great provision depot of the Pompeians; -which would scarcely have been the case had it been within twenty miles -of the city of Cordoba. And again, it is not likely that Caesar would -have commenced the campaign by laying siege to a place within such a -short distance of Cordoba, since the invested town might so readily have -received succour from that city, and his adversary would, by such a -step, have had the advantage of combining all his forces to attack him -during the progress of the siege. - -Again, another objection presents itself, namely, that Ategua is -represented as a particularly strong place,[126] which, from the nature -of the ground in that part of the country--that is, between Castro el -Rio and Cordoba--no town could well have been; situation, rather than -art, constituting the strength of towns in those days. - -We will now return to Teba, the locality of which agrees infinitely -better with the account of Ategua given by Hirtius, whilst the River -_Guadaljorce_, which flows in its vicinity, answers perfectly his -description of the Salsus; for, along its right bank a plain extends all -the way to the Genil; on its left, "at two miles' distance," rises a -wall of Sierra; and the whole country, beyond, is "full of mountains, -all lying on the side of" Teba. That is to say, the mountain range -continues in the same direction, and possesses the same marked -character, although the Guadaljorce breaks through it ere reaching so -far west as Teba; for, by a vagary of nature, this stream quits the wide -plain of the Genil to throw itself into a rocky gorge, and after -describing a very tortuous course, gains, at length, the vale of Malaga. - -Now this very circumstance strikes me, on attentive consideration, as -tending rather to strengthen than otherwise the supposition that Teba -is Ategua; for Caesar's army is not stated to have _crossed_ the Salsus -on its march from Cordoba to Ategua; from which we must conclude that -Ategua was on the _right_ bank of the river; whilst other circumstances -prove that the town was some distance from the river, and encompassed by -mountains. - -Pompey, however, following Caesar from Cordoba, and proceeding to the -relief of Ategua, _crosses the Salsus_, and fixes his camp "on these -mountains (i. e. the mountains 'which all lie on the side of Ategua') -between Ategua and Ucubis, but within sight of both places," being, as -is distinctly said afterwards, separated from his adversary by the -Salsus. - -Thus, therefore, though his camp was on the same range of mountains as -Ategua, yet he was separated from that town by a river: a peculiarity, -in the formation of the ground, which suits the locality of Teba, but -would be difficult to make agree with any other place. - -The only very apparent objection to this hypothesis is, that Caesar's -cavalry is mentioned as having, on one occasion, pursued the foraging -parties of his adversary "almost to the very walls of Codoba." But this -was when Pompey (after his first failure to relieve Ategua) had drawn -off his army towards Cordoba. It does not follow, therefore, that -Caesar's troops pursued his adversary's parties from Ategua, though he -was still besieging that place, but it may rather be supposed that his -cavalry was sent after the enemy to harass them on their march, and -watch their future movements. - -One might, indeed, on equally good grounds, maintain that Ategua was -_within a day's march of Seville_; since, on Pompey's finally abandoning -the field, Hirtius says,[127] "the same day he decamped, (from Ucubis, -which was within sight of Ategua) and posted himself in an olive wood -over against Hispalis." - -With respect to this knotty point of distance it is further to be -observed, that on Caesar's breaking up his camp from before Cordoba, his -march is spoken of as being _towards_ Ategua, implying that the two -places did not lie within a day's march of each other; and the -supposition that they were more than a few leagues apart is strengthened -by the place, and order in which Ategua is mentioned by the methodical -Pliny; viz., amongst the cities lying between the Boetis and the -Mediterranean Sea, and next in succession to _Singili_,[128] which, -doubtless, was on the southern bank of the Genil, towards Antequera. - -The Guadaljorce has as good claims to the name of _Salsus_, as any other -river in the country, since the mountains about Antequera, amongst -which it takes its rise, were in former days noted for the quantity of -salt they produced; and though the river Guadaljorce now carries its -name to the sea, yet, in the time of the Romans, such was not the case; -for, in those days, by whatever name that river may have been -distinguished, it was dropt on forming its junction with the Sigila, -(now the Rio Grande) in the _vega_ of Malaga, although, of the two, the -latter is the inferior stream. - -The fort of Ucubis, stated by Hirtius to have been destroyed by Caesar, -we may suppose stood on the side of the mountains overlooking the Salsus -or Guadaljorce, towards Antequera; and it does not seem improbable that -that city is the _Soricaria_ mentioned by the same historian; for -_Anticaria_, though noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is not -amongst the cities of Boetica enumerated by Pliny. - -Teba was taken from the Moors by Alphonso XI., A.D. 1340. The -inhabitants are a savage-looking tribe, and boast of having kept the -French at bay during the whole period of the "war of independence."[129] - -There is a tolerable venta at the foot of the hill, near the bridge, at -which we baited our horses. The distance from Ronda to Teba is 21 miles; -from hence to Campillos is about six; the country is undulated, and -road good, crossing several brooks, some flowing eastward to the -Guadaljorce, others in the opposite direction to the Genil. - -Campillos is situated at the commencement of a vast track of perfectly -level country, that extends all the way to the river Genil. By some -strange mistake it is laid down in the Spanish maps due east of Teba, -whereas it is nearly north. It is four leagues (or about seventeen -miles) from Antequera, and five leagues from Osuna. It is a neat town, -clean, and well-paved, and contains 1000 _vecinos escasos_;[130] which -may be reckoned at 5000 souls, six being the number usually calculated -per _vecino_. - -Campillos lies just within the border of the kingdom of Seville, and -was, therefore, on forbidden ground; since, had we entered it, our clean -bills of health would have been thereby tainted. We were consequently -obliged to skirt round the town at a tether of several hundred yards. I -regretted this much, for the place contains an excellent _posada_, -bearing the--to Protestant ears--somewhat profane sign of "_Jesus -Nazarino_," and its keepers were old cronies of mine, our friendship -having commenced some years before under rather peculiar circumstances, -viz., in travelling from Antequera to Ronda, my horse met with an -accident which obliged me to halt for the night at Campillos. Leaving to -my servant the task of ordering dinner at the inn, I proceeded on foot -to examine the town, and gain, if possible, some elevated spot in its -vicinity whence I could obtain a good view of the country, being -desirous to correct the mistake before alluded to, in the relative -positions of Teba and Campillos on the maps. - -Having found a point suited to this purpose, from whence I could see -both Teba and the _Penon de los Enamorados_, (a remarkable conical -mountain near Antequera,) I drew forth a pocket surveying compass, and -took the bearings of those two points, as well as of several other -conspicuous objects in the neighbourhood. - -These ill-understood proceedings caused the utmost astonishment to a -group of idlers, who, at a respectful distance, but with significant -nods and mysterious whisperings, were narrowly watching my operations. -These concluded, and the result of my observations committed to my -pocket-book, I took a slight outline sketch of the bold range of -mountains that stretches towards Granada, and returned to the inn. - -On my first arrival there, I had merely addressed the usual compliment -of the country to the innkeeper and his wife, and now, repeating my -salutation to the lady--who only was present--I seated myself at the -fire-place of the common apartment, and began writing in my pocket-book, -replying very laconically to her various attempts at conversation; and -at length obtaining no immediate answer to another endeavour to _draw me -out_, she said, addressing herself, "_no entiende_,"[131] and offered no -further interruptions to my scribbling. - -I confess to the practice of a little deceit in the matter, as my -answers certainly must have led her to believe that I was a very _tyro_ -at the Spanish vocabulary--a fancy in which I used often to indulge the -natives when I wished to shirk conversation. - -Soon afterwards the _Posadero_ came in, and a whispered communication -took place between him and his spouse, which gradually acquiring _tone_, -I at length was able to catch distinctly, and heard the following -conversation. - -"You are quite certain he does not understand Spanish?" said mine host. - -"Not a syllable," replied his helpmate. - -"He is about no good here, wife, that I can tell you." - -"There does not appear to be much mischief in him." - -"We must not trust to looks; I was at the chapel of the Rosario just -now, and he walked up there, took an instrument from his pocket, marked -down all the principal points of the country, and then drew them in that -little book he is now writing in ... are you quite sure he does not -understand Spanish?--I observed him smile just now." - -"_No tienes cuidado_,"[132] replied the wife; "I have tried him on all -points." - -"Depend upon it he is _mapeando el pais_,"[133] resumed the husband. - -"I think you ought forthwith to give notice of his doings to the -_Justicia_," answered the lady. - -"Ay, and lose a good customer by having him taken to prison!" rejoined -the patriotic innkeeper; "time enough to do that in the morning after he -has paid his bill; but as to the propriety of giving information wife, I -agree with you perfectly." - -"He must be one of the rascally _gavachos_ from Cadiz," (a French -garrison at this time occupied that fortress,) "but what right has he to -take his notes of our _pueblo_?[134] I thought of questioning the -servant, who does speak a few words of Spanish, before he took the -horses to the smithy, but Don Guillelmo came in and put it out of my -head. Suppose I make another attempt to find out from himself what -brings him here?" - -"Do so," said her lord and master; and, with this permission, she -advanced towards me with a very gracious smile, and _articulating_ every -syllable most distinctly, in the hope of making her interrogation -perfectly intelligible, "begged to know if my worship was a Frenchman." - -"_Yo_," said I, pointing to myself, as if I did not clearly understand -her; "_nix_." - -"_Ingles?_" demanded she, returning to the charge. - -"_Si_," replied I, with a nod affirmative. - -"_Valga mi Dios!_" exclaimed she, turning to her husband; "he is -English! how delighted I am! what a time it is since I saw an -Englishman! how can we make him comfortable?" - -"_Poco a poco_,"[135] observed the inn-keeper--"English or French he has -no business to be _mapeando_ our country, and the Alcalde ought to know -of it." - -"_Disparate!_"[136] exclaimed the wife; "what does his _mapeando_ -signify if he is an Englishman? are they not our best friends?[137] Is -it not the same as if a Spaniard were doing it, only that it will be -better done?" - -"Very true," admitted mine host; "they have, indeed, been our friends, -and will soon again, I trust, give us a proof of their friendship, by -assisting to drive these French scoundrels across the Pyrenees, and -allowing us to settle our own differences." - -Pocketing my memorandum book, I now rose from my seat and addressing the -landlady, "_con gentil donayre y talante_,"[138] as Don Quijote says, -asked, in the best Castillian I could put together, when it was probable -I should have dinner, as from having been the greater part of the -morning on horseback, I was not only very hungry, but should be glad to -retire early to my bed. - -Never were two people more astonished than mine host and his spouse at -this address. Had I detected them in the act of pilfering my saddlebags, -they could not have looked more guilty. They offered a thousand -apologies, but seemed to think the greatest affront they had put upon me -was that of mistaking me for a Frenchman. - -"I ought at once to have known you were no braggart _gavacho_," said the -landlord, "by your not making a noise on entering the house--calling for -every thing and abusing every body--How do you think one of these -gentry, who came into Spain as _friends_, to tranquillize the country, -behaved to our _Alcalde_? The Frenchman wanted a billet, and finding the -office shut, went to the _Alcalde's_ house for it. The _Alcalde_ was at -dinner with a couple of friends; he begged the officer to be seated, -saying he would send for the _Escribano_ and have a billet made out for -him--'And am I to be kept waiting for your clerk?' said the Frenchman; -'a pretty joke, indeed.' 'He will be here in an instant,' said the -_Alcalde_; 'pray have a little patience, and be seated.' 'Patience, -indeed!' exclaimed the other; 'make the billet out directly yourself, or -I'll pull the house about your ears.' '_Juicio!_ senor,' replied the -Mayor; 'do you not see that I am at dinner?' 'What are you at _now_?' -said the Frenchman; and, laying hold of one corner of the tablecloth, he -drew it, plates, dishes, glasses, and every thing, off the table. This -is the way our French _friends_ behave to us!" - -I now satisfied the worthy couple that their fears of mischief arising -from my "_mapeando el pais_," were quite groundless; and mine host -showed great intelligence in comprehending what I wished to correct in -the Spanish map; the error in which he saw at once, when I pointed to -the setting sun; his wife standing by and exclaiming "_que gente tan -fina los Ingleses_!"[139] - -No advantage was taken of the knowledge of _my_ country in making out -_the bill_, and I departed next morning with their prayers that I might -travel in company with all the saints in the calendar. - -The direct road from Campillos to Cordoba is by way of La Rodd; but, in -the present instance, it was necessary to avoid that town, and proceed -to _La Fuente de Piedra_, which is situated a few miles to the eastward, -and without the sanitory circle drawn round the cholera. - -The distance from Campillos to this place is two long leagues, which may -be reckoned nine miles. - -_La Fuente de Piedra_ is a small village, of about sixty houses, -surrounded with olive-grounds, and abounding in crystal springs. The -medicinal virtues of one of these sources (which rises in the middle of -the place) led to the building of the village; and the painful disease -for which in especial this fountain is considered a sovereign cure, has -given its name to the place. We arrived very late in the evening, and -found the _posada_ most miserable. - -On leaving _La Fuente de Piedra_ we took the road to _Puente Don -Gonzalo_, and at about three miles from the village crossed the great -road from Granada to Seville, which is practicable for carriages the -greater part, but _not all_ the way; a little beyond this the _Sierra de -Estepa_ rises on the left of the route, to the height of several hundred -feet above the plain. The town of Estepa is not seen, being on the -western side of the hill; it is supposed to be the Astapa of the -Romans, the horrible destruction of which is related by Livy. - -The inhabitants, on the approach of Scipio, aware of the exasperated -feelings of the Romans towards them, piled all their valuables in the -centre of the forum, placed their wives and children upon the top, and -leaving a few of their young men to set fire to the pile in the event of -their defeat, rushed out upon the Roman army. They were all killed, the -pile was lighted, and a heap of ashes was the only trophy of their -conquerors. - -The Roman historian says, the people of Astapa "delighted in robberies." -I wonder if he thought his countrymen exempt from similar propensities! - -In three hours we reached Cazariche. The road merely skirts the village, -being separated from it by an abundant stream, which, serving to -irrigate numerous gardens and orchards, renders the last league of the -ride very agreeable, which otherwise, from the flatness of the country -to the eastward, would be uninteresting. This rivulet is called _La -Salada_; but its volume is far too small to make one suppose for a -moment that it is the _Salsus_. - -At five miles from Cazariche, keeping along the left bank of the Salada -the whole distance, but not crossing it, as marked on the maps, the road -reaches Miragenil. This is a small village, situated on the southern -bank of the Genil, and communicating, by means of a bridge, with _Puente -Don Gonzalo_. - -The river here forms the division between the kingdoms of Seville and -Cordoba; and the two governments not having agreed as to the superior -merits of wood or stone, one-half the bridge is built of the former, the -other half of the latter material. - -Puente Don Gonzalo stands on a steep acclivity, commanding the bridge -and river. It is a town of some consideration, containing several -manufactories of household furniture, numerous mills, and a population -of 6000 souls. - -Florez, on the authority of a _stone_ found _near_ Cazariche (which he -calls Casaliche), whereon the word VENTIPO was inscribed, supposed -_Ventisponte_,[140] to have been situated somewhere in the vicinity of -Puente Don Gonzalo. But if this stone had been _carried_ to Cazariche, -it may have been taken there from any other point of the compass as well -as from that in which Puente Don Gonzalo is situated. - -Other authorities suppose this town to be on the site of Singilis; but -that place, as already stated, has been pretty clearly proved to have -been nearer Antequera. - -The "_provechasos aguas del divino Genil_,"[141] after cleansing the -town of Puente Don Gonzalo, are turned to the best possible account, in -irrigating gardens and turning mill-wheels; and the road to Cordoba, -after proceeding for about a mile along the verdant valley that -stretches to the westward, ascends the somewhat steep bank which pens in -the stream to the north, and for four hours wanders over a flat -uninteresting country to Rambla; passing, in the whole distance of -fifteen miles, but two running streams, three farm-houses, and the -miserable village of Montalban. This latter is distant about a mile and -a half from Rambla. - -We saw but little of this town, having arrived late at night, and -departed from it at an early hour on the following morning; but it is of -considerable size, and situated on the north side of a steep hill. We -found the inn excessively dirty and exorbitantly dear; indeed it may be -laid down as a general rule with Spanish as well as Swiss inns, that the -charges are high in proportion to the _badness_ of the fare and -accommodation. - -The ground in the vicinity of Rambla is planted chiefly with vines, and -but two short leagues to the eastward is situated Montilla, where, in -the estimation of Spaniards, the best wine of the province is grown. It -is extremely dry; and, as I have mentioned before, gives its name to the -Sherry called _Amontillado_. - -Rambla is just midway between Puente Don Gonzalo and Cordoba, viz. -sixteen miles from each. The country is hilly, and mostly under tillage, -but where its cultivators reside puzzles one to guess, as there is not a -house on the road in the whole distance, and but two towns visible from -it, viz. Montemayor and Fernan Nunez, both within six miles of Rambla. - -The first-named of these places disputes with Montilla the honour of -being the Roman city of _Ulia_, the only inland town of Boetica that -held out for Caesar against the sons of Pompey, previous to his arrival -in the country.[142] It appears doubtful[143] whether _Ulia_ is -mentioned by Pliny, but it is noticed in the Roman Itinerary (_Gadibus -Cordubam_) as eighteen miles from Cordoba, a distance that agrees better -with Montilla than Montemayor; indeed the former almost declares itself -in the very name it yet bears, _Montilla_; the double _l_ in Spanish -having the liquid sound of _li_, making it a corruption of _Mont Ulia_. - -At about four miles from Cordoba the Guadajoz, or river of Castro, is -crossed by fording, and between it and the Guadalquivir the ground is -broken by steep hills. The road falls into the _Arrecife_ from Seville, -on reaching the suburb on the left bank of the river. - -We took up our abode at the _Posada de la Mesangeria_; a particularly -comfortable house, as Spanish inns go, that had been opened for the -accommodation of the diligence travellers since my former visit to the -city. The _patio_, ornamented with a bubbling fountain of icy-cold -water, and shaded with a profusion of all sorts of rare creepers and -flowering shrubs, afforded a cool retreat at all hours of the day; -which, though we were in the month of October, was very acceptable. - -Whilst seated at breakfast, under the colonnade that encompasses the -court, the morning after our arrival, the master of the inn waited upon -us to know if we required a _valet de place_ during our sojourn at -Cordoba, as a very intelligent old man, who spoke French like a native, -and was in the habit of attending upon _caballeros forasteros_[144] in -the above-named capacity, was then in the house, and begged to place his -services at our disposition. - -I replied, that having before visited his city, I considered myself -sufficiently acquainted with its _sights_ to be able to dispense with -this, otherwise useful, personage's attendance; but our host seemed so -desirous that we should employ the old man, "We might have little -errands to send him upon--some purchases to make; in fact, we should -find the Tio Blas so useful in any capacity, and it would be such an -act of charity to employ him,"--that we finally acceded to his proposal, -and the _Tio_ was accordingly ushered in. - -He was a tall, and, though emaciated, still erect old man, whose -tottering gait, and white and scanty hairs, would have led to the belief -that his years had already exceeded the number usually allotted to the -life of man, but that his deep-sunk eyes were shaded by dark and -beatling brows, and yet sparkled occasionally with the fire of youth; -proving that hardships and misfortunes had brought him somewhat -prematurely to the brink of the grave. - -It struck me at the first glance that I had seen him before, but when, -and under what circumstances, I could not recall to my recollection. -After some conversation, as to what had been his former occupation, &c., -he remarked, addressing himself to me, "I think, _Caballero_, that this -is not the first time we have met--many years have elapsed since--many -(to me) most eventful years, and they have wrought great changes in my -appearance. And, indeed, some little difference is perceptible also in -yours, for you were a mere boy then; but, still, time has not laid so -heavy a hand on you as on the worn-out person of him who stands before -you, and in whom you will, doubtless, have difficulty in recognizing the -reckless _Blas Maldonado_!" - -Time had, indeed, effected great changes in him, morally as well as -physically; for not only had the powerful, well-built man, dwindled into -a tottering, emaciated driveller, but the daring, impious bandit, had -become a weak and superstitious dotard. - -My curiosity strongly piqued to learn how changes so wonderful had been -brought about, we immediately engaged the _Tio_ to attend upon us; and, -during the few days circumstances compelled us to remain at Cordoba, I -elicited from him the following account of the events which had -chequered his extraordinary career since we had before met. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -HISTORY OF BLAS EL GUERRILLERO--_continued._ - - "_La rueda de la fortuna anda mas lista que una rueda de molino, y - que los que ayer estaban en pinganitos, hoy estan por el - suelo._"[145]-- - DON QUIJOTE. - - -It was at Castro el Rio that we last met Don Carlos; it is now eleven -years since,--rather more, but still I have a perfect recollection of -it. My memory, indeed, is the only thing that has served me well through -life. Friends have abandoned--riches corrupted--success has -hardened--ambition disappointed me; and now, as you see, my very limbs -are failing me, but memory--excepting for one short period, when my -brain was affected--has never abandoned me. I cannot flee from it--it -pursues me incessantly: it is as impossible to get rid of, as of one's -shadow in the sun's rays, and seems indeed, like it, to become more -perfect, as I too proceed downward in my rapidly revolving course. - -Alas! it often brings to mind the words of my good father, addressed, -whilst I was yet a child, to my too-indulgent mother:--"If we consult -the happiness of our son, we must not bring him up above the condition -to which it has pleased Providence to call him." It was my unhappy lot, -however, to become an _educated pauper_. I grew up discontented, and -became a profligate: I coveted riches, to feed my unnatural cravings, -and became criminal: I scoffed at religion, and came to ridicule the -idea of a future state of rewards and punishments. And as I thus brought -myself to believe that I was not an accountable creature, nothing -thenceforth restrained me from committing any act which gratified my -passions. What is man, I argued, that I should not despoil him, if he -possess that which I covet? What should deter me from taking his life, -if he stand between me and that which I desire? _Crime_ is a mere -word,--a term for any act which certain _men_, for their mutual -advantage, have agreed shall meet with punishment. But what right have -those men to say, this is just, and that is unlawful? - -Such were my feelings at the time I met and related to you the -adventures of my early life; adventures of which I was then not a -little proud, though, nevertheless, I slurred over some little matters -that I thought would not raise me in your opinion. Well was it for me -that I was not cut off in the midst of my iniquitous career, but have, -on the contrary, been allowed time, by penance and prayer, to make what -atonement is in my power for my former sinful life. - -My journey to Castro had been undertaken at the desire of the political -chief of ----, for the purpose of watching the proceedings of the Royal -Regiment of Carbineers, which, as you may remember, was at that time -quartered there. - -I soon, under pretence of being a stanch royalist, wormed myself into -the confidence of the officers, and learnt that they were in -communication with the King's Guards at Madrid, and were plotting a -counter-revolution, to reestablish Ferdinand on a despotic throne. The -advice I gave them, and the information I furnished the government, led -to the unconnected and premature developement of their treason, and to -the vigorous steps which were taken by the executive to meet and put it -down. - -These, however, are matters of history, on which it is unnecessary to -dwell; suffice it, therefore, to say, that my good services on the -occasion were rewarded by promotion to a more lucrative _corregimiento_. -I did not long enjoy this new post, for, on the French columns crossing -the Pyrenees the following spring, I threw up my civil employment, and, -collecting a small band of _guerrillas_, flew to the defence of my -country; joining the traitor Ballasteros, then entrusted with the -command of the army of the south. - -The deplorable events which followed deprived me of a home; but, leaving -my wife and infant son (the only child, of three, whom it had pleased -Providence to spare us) at the secluded little town of Canete la Real, -perched high up in the Sierra de Terril, I wandered about the country -with a few adherents, seeking opportunities of harassing the French -during their operations before Cadiz. - -They afforded us no opportunities, however, of attacking their convoys -with any chance of success, and my followers could not be brought to -engage in any daring enterprise without the prospect of booty. The -feeling of patriotism appeared, indeed, to be extinct in the breasts of -Spaniards, and after a few weeks my band, which was nowhere well -received, having been induced to commit excesses in some of the villages -situated in the open country about Arcos, several parties of royalist -volunteers were formed to proceed in quest of us; and so disheartened -were my followers, that I shortly found my band reduced to a dozen -desperadoes, who, like myself, had no hopes of obtaining pardon. - -We betook ourselves, therefore, to the innermost recesses of the Ronda -mountains, moving constantly from place to place, as well to harass our -pursuers, as to avoid being surrounded by them; and such is the -intricacy of the country, and so numerous are the rocky fastnesses of -the smugglers (from whom we were always sure of a good reception), that -we readily baffled all pursuit, and exhausted the patience of our -enemies; and, at length, seizing a favourable opportunity of inflicting -a severe loss upon one of their parties, the patriotic zeal of these -gentry so completely evaporated, that we were left in the undisturbed -command of the Serrania. - -All hope of being serviceable to our country at an end, we were -compelled, as a last resource, to adopt the only calling to which we -were suited, viz., that of highway robbers; and for several months every -road between Gibraltar and Malaga, and the inland towns, was, in turn, -subject to our predaceous visits. - -On one occasion a dignitary of the church, whose name and particular -station it would not be prudent of me to mention, fell into our hands. -His attendants, who were of a militant order, defended their master with -great obstinacy. They were eventually overpowered, however, but several -of my men having been badly wounded in the scuffle, were so -exasperated, that they determined to shoot all those who had fallen into -our hands, as well as the ---- himself; who, though he had not taken an -active part in the combat, had made no attempt to restrain his -pugnacious adherents. - -As soon as our prisoners had been secured, therefore, the portly -ecclesiastic was directed to descend from his sleek mule, deliver up his -money, and prepare for death. He inveighed in eloquent terms at our -barbarity, pointed out to us the iniquity of our proceedings, the -probability of a speedy punishment overtaking us in this life, and the -certainty of having to endure everlasting torments in that which is to -come. But it was to no purpose; indeed, it only tempted my miscreants to -prolong his misery; and, having tied him to a tree, they insisted upon -his blessing them all round, ere they proceeded to shoot him. - -"My children," said the worthy ----, "my blessing, from the tone in which -you ask it, would serve you little. My life is in the hands of my Maker, -not in your's; and if it be His pleasure to make you the instruments of -his divine will, so be it. I am prepared; death has no terrors for me; -and may you obtain _His_ forgiveness for the sin you are about to -commit, as readily as I grant you _mine_. Now, I am ready;" and, looking -upwards to the seat of all power and grace, he paid no further -attention to their scoffing. - -"Now Senor Bias," said one of my men, "since he will give us no more -sport, give the word, and let us finish his business." - -"Hold!" exclaimed one of the ----'s suite, addressing me, "Is your name -Blas Maldonado?" - -"It is: wherefore?" - -"Because, if such be the case, in his Excellency's _portefuille_ you -will find a letter addressed to you." - -I forthwith proceeded to examine its contents, and, true enough, found a -letter bearing my address. It was from my old friend _Jacobo_, -requesting, should the ---- fall into my hands, that I would suffer him -to pass without molestation, in return for services conferred on him, -which would be explained at our next meeting.[146] - -_Jacobo_, though we had not met for many months, I knew was in that part -of the country, following the honest calling of a _Contrabandista_, and -I felt, in honour, bound to grant this request of my old friend and ever -faithful lieutenant. My followers, however, objected strongly to spare -either the ----, or his attendants, and a violent altercation ensued; -for, I declared that my life must be taken ere that of any one of our -prisoners. - -Four only of the band sided with me, and we had already assumed a -hostile attitude, when the ---- called earnestly upon me to desist. - -"Peril not your sinful souls!" he exclaimed, "by hurrying each other, -unrepented of your manifold sins, into the presence of an offended -Maker.--Take our gold--take every thing we possess; and if those -misguided men cannot be satisfied without blood, let mine flow to save -the lives of these, my followers, who have stronger ties than I to bind -them to this world." - -My hot temper, little used to contradiction, would listen, however, to -no terms; my word was pledged that the ---- and his attendants should go -free, and my word was never given in vain. I persisted, therefore, in -declaring that those must pass over my body who would touch a hair of -the ----'s head, or take a m_aravedi_ from his purse.... If he chose to -make them a present after he had been released, he was his own master to -do so. - -This delicate hint was eagerly seized by the worthy dignitary's -attendants, and a large sum of money was distributed amongst the gang, -in which I declined sharing. The ----, meanwhile, remounted his mule, -and, calling me to his side, placed a valuable ring upon my finger. "I -am indebted to you for my life, Blas Maldonado," he said, with the most -lively emotion; "but that is little; I owe to you--what I value -infinitely more--the safety of these faithful attendants, whose -attachment had led them, like Simon Peter, to defend their Pastor. Such -debts cannot be cancelled by any gift I can bestow, and it is not with -that view I offer you this bauble, but a day may come when you may need -an intercessor--if so, return this ring to me by some faithful member of -our holy church, and let me know how I can serve you: or--which is -probable, considering my age and infirmities--should I, ere that comes -to pass, have been called from this world to give an account of my -stewardship; then, fear not to lay it at the foot of Fernando's throne, -and, in the name of its donor, beg for mercy. I trust you may not have -occasion to require its services, for my prayers shall not be wanting -for your conversion from your present evil ways--my blessing be upon -you--farewell." - -How powerful is the influence of religion! Whilst listening to the -worthy ----'s words, my head, which since the days of my childhood no -act of devotion had ever led me to uncover, was bared as if by instinct; -and, to receive the blessing he had called down upon me, I humbled -myself to the earth! - -Although those of the band who had so vehemently opposed sparing -the ----'s life had finally been satisfied with the _donation_ bestowed -upon them, yet their disobedience made me determine on ejecting them -from my band, and accordingly, accompanied only by my four supporters in -the late dispute, I proceeded to my old rendezvous, Montejaque, hoping -to pick up some recruits. I purposed, also, availing myself of the first -favourable opportunity to remove my wife and child to that place, it -being more conveniently situated, and offering greater security than -even Canete la Real. - -We had been there but a few days, when I received a letter without a -signature, but in the well-known characters of my bosom friend, Miguel -Clavijo, under whose protection I had placed my wife and child, giving -warning of impending danger to them. There was yet time to avert it, my -correspondent concluded, but in twenty-four hours from the date of this -communication, their fate would probably be sealed. - -It was within two hours of sunset when I received this letter, and eight -hours had already elapsed since it had been written. Not a moment, -therefore, was to be lost. I procured a pillion, and, placing it on an -active horse, set off with all possible haste for Canete, keeping along -the course of the river Ariate to avoid the town of Ronda, and -traversing at full speed the village bearing the name of the stream, in -order to escape recognition. - -I reached the rounded summit of the chain of hills which forms the -northern boundary of the cultivated valley of Ronda, just as the sun was -sinking behind the western mountains; and, checking my horse to give him -a few moments' breath ere commencing the rugged descent on the opposite -side, I turned round to see if all were quiet in the wide-spread plain I -had just traversed, and that no one was following my traces. At this -moment the last ray of the glorious luminary lit upon the distant town -of Grazalema. The remarkable coincidence of the warning of treason I had -received there on this very day, twelve years before, came vividly to -mind, and with it the recollection of my extraordinary escape from the -snare laid for me--the debt of gratitude due to her who had risked her -life, and sacrificed her honour to save me--the cruelty with which my -preserver had been treated. Poor abandoned Paca! From the moment of our -angry separation, never had I once taken the trouble of enquiring what -had been her fate. Scarcely, indeed, had I ever bestowed a thought upon -her. - -I resumed my way down the rough descent, pondering, for the first time -in my life, on the ingratitude I had been guilty of, and had reached -some high cliffs that border the road beneath the village of La Cuera -del Becerro, when a pistol was discharged within a few yards of me, and, -looking up, I saw a witchlike figure standing on the edge of the -precipice overhanging the path--It was Paca! - -Had my eyes wished to deceive me, she would not have allowed them, for, -with a wild, demonaical laugh, she screamed out "_Adelante, Adelante, -embustero desalmado!_[147]--You will yet be in time to dig the grave for -your child, though too late to snatch your _wife_ from the arms of her -paramour. Forward, forward; recollect the old saying, '_no hay boda, sin -tornaboda_;'[148] you may have forgotten Paca of _Benaocaz_, but I shall -never forget Blas Maldonado. The creditor has ever a better memory than -the debtor. I have paid myself now, however--ride on, and see the -receipt I have left for you at Canete--ha, ha, ha!" - -There was something perfectly fiendish in her laughter. A horrible -presentiment possessed me.--With a hand tremulous with passion, I drew -forth a pistol and fired. Paca staggered, and fell backwards; but, not -waiting to see if she were killed, I put spurs to my horse, and hurried -forward to Canete. - -I rode straight to the house where I had left my wife, but it was -uninhabited. I turned from it with a shudder, and proceeded to the -abode of my faithful friend Clavijo, who was confined to his bed with -ague. He received me with a face foreboding evil. - -"Where is my wife?" I hastily demanded--"my child, where is he?" - -"Alas!" he replied, "why came you not earlier?" - -"Earlier! how could that be? It is but twelve hours since your summons -was penned! Tell me, I implore you--what horrible misfortune has -befallen?" - -"But twelve hours, say you?" exclaimed Clavijo; "It is now _three days_ -since I intrusted my letter to Paca to convey to you! she it was who -informed me of the plot to carry off your wife, (which has been but too -truly effected,) and offered to be herself the bearer of my letter to -you at Montejaque, where she assured me you were. I have not seen her -since, and fancied she had not succeeded in finding you." - -I stood stupified whilst listening to this explanation--for such it was -to me; the truth, the horrible truth, at once flashing upon me--and -then, without waiting to obtain further information from the bed-ridden -Miguel, hastened to the late residence of my wife, which one of his -domestics pointed out to me. In few words, I explained to its owner the -object of my visit, begging for information concerning my child. "This -will explain all, Senor Blas," she replied, taking a letter from a -cupboard, and placing it in my hands; "would to God it had been in my -power to prevent what has happened." - -The letter was in my wife's hand-writing, I tore it open, and to my -astonishment read as follows. - -"Monster of iniquity! The veil that has but too long concealed thy -unequalled crimes from the eyes of a confiding woman, has been rudely -torn aside. Murderer of my brother! Apostate! Traitor! Adulterer! -receive at my hands the first stroke of the Almighty's anger. The -illegitimate offspring of our intercourse lies a mangled corpse upon our -adulterous bed! Yes, unparalleled villain; my hand, like thine own, is -stained with the blood of my child--_our_ child. But on thy head rests -the sin. In a moment of delirium, produced by the sight of my husband, -and the knowledge of thy atrocious crimes, the horrid deed was -committed. I leave thee to the pangs of remorse. I cannot curse thee. -Even with the bleached corpse of my poor boy before me, I cannot bring -myself to call down a heavy punishment upon thee. We shall never meet -again; but fly instantly and save thyself if possible; and may the -Almighty Being, whose every command thou hast violated, extend the term -of thy life for repentance; and may a blessed Saviour and the holy -saints, whose mediation thou hast ever derided, intercede for the -salvation of thy sinful soul." - -My first feeling on reading this epistle was incredulity! _I_, who had -stopped at no crime to gratify any evil passion; even I could not -persuade myself that it was not a forgery, nor believe that one so -gentle, so affectionate, as Engracia, could be guilty of so diabolical -an act. I took up a lamp and walked composedly to the adjoining chamber, -to satisfy my doubts. With a steady hand I drew aside the curtain of the -bed--nothing was visible. A thrill of delight ran through my veins. I -tore off the counterpane, and--horrible revulsion of -feeling!--discovered my boy, my darling boy, with anguish depicted in -every feature, and every muscle contracted with excessive suffering; a -cold--black--fetid--putrid corpse! - -Until that moment I had not known the full extent to which the chords of -the human heart are capable of being stretched. All my love of life had -centred in that child. Each of his infantile endearments came fresh upon -my memory. The pangs of jealousy and hate, too, had never before been so -acutely felt; and, lastly, I thought of my Fernando's dying malediction! -It seemed as if a poisoned dart had pierced to the very innermost recess -of the heart, and that my envenomed blood waited but its extraction, to -gush forth in one irrepressible flood. - -I stood speechless--awe-struck--motionless; but not yet humbled. I -thought of Paca, and a curse rose to my throat; but ere I had time to -give it utterance, a noise, as of many persons assembled at the door of -the house, attracted my attention, and I heard an unknown voice say, -"This, _Tio_, you are sure is the house? Then in with you, comrades, -without ceremony, and bring out every soul you may find there, dead or -alive." - -In another moment the door was broken open and a party of armed men -rushed in. My precaution of extinguishing the lamp was vain, as several -of them bore blazing torches. I rushed to a back window of the inner -apartment, and drew forth a pistol to keep them at bay whilst I effected -my escape by it. It had the desired effect. Not one of the dastard crew -would approach to lay his hand upon me. The shutter was already thrown -open; the strength of desperation had enabled me to tear down one of the -iron bars of the _reja_; and one foot rested on the window-sill; when, -rushing past the soldiers, a ghost-like female figure, whose face was -bound up in a cloth clotted with gore, seized me in her convulsive -grasp, and in a half-articulate scream cried, "Wretch! you shall not so -escape me!"--It was Paca! I tried in vain to shake her off; she clung to -me with the pertinacity of a vampire, I placed the muzzle of my pistol -to her temple, and pulled the trigger; but, in my hurry, I had drawn -that which I had already fired at her. I attempted to snatch another -from my belt, but the soldiers taking courage rushed forward and -overpowered me, just as Paca, from whose mouth I now perceived blood was -rapidly issuing, fell exhausted upon the floor. - -The commander of the party was now called in, who gave directions for a -priest and a surgeon to be instantly sent for, and that I should be -bound hand and foot with cords. They took the bedding from under the -corpse of my son to form a rest for Paca, whose life seemed ebbing -rapidly. - -In a few minutes the surgeon arrived, and shortly after a tinkling bell -announced the approach of the Host. The doctor having examined Paca's -wounds, pronounced them to have been inflicted by the discharge of some -weapon loaded with slugs, one of which had fractured her jaw-bone, -whilst another had inflicted a wound that occasioned an inward flow of -blood which threatened immediate dissolution, and consequently the -services of the church were more likely to be beneficial than his own. -The priest then approached, and offered the last and cheering -consolation that our holy religion offers to a dying penitent. - -Paca opened her now lustreless eyes, and with a motion of impatience, -putting aside the proffered cup, pointed to me. "There is my murderer," -she muttered in broken accents; "Villain! monster! my vengeance is at -length complete. I leave you in the hands of justice, and die ... -happy." An agonized writhe belied her assertion. She never spoke after, -but continued groaning whilst the worthy priest attempted to call her -attention to her approaching end. - -I have not much more to add to my history. It appeared, by what I learnt -afterwards, that Beltran had most miraculously escaped death, when -thrown from the rock of Montejaque, and having been discovered by some -French soldiers who made an attack upon the place a few days afterwards, -was conveyed to Ronda, when the loss of his ears led to his being -recognised by the French governor, who had, in the meanwhile, received -my _present_, and discovered the trick I had played him. - -Beltran's tale thus proved to have been the true one, he was -well-treated, and sent with a party of prisoners to France, where he -remained until the conclusion of the war. He was then on his way back to -his native country, in company with several other Spaniards, when he was -arrested as being an accomplice, "_sans premeditation_," in a robbery, -attended with loss of life, and was sentenced to ten years' -imprisonment; but, before this term was fully completed, he obtained -his release, returned to Spain, and proceeding immediately to his native -province, there first learnt that Engracia had become my wife. - -I think, by the way, that in the former part of my narrative I omitted -to mention--for fully persuaded as I _then_ was of Beltran's death, it -was a matter of no moment--that previous to Engracia's becoming my wife, -she informed me of her having, at the urgent instances of her brother -Melchor, consented to a private marriage with my rival; and from this -circumstance she had expressed the greatest anxiety to ascertain his -fate with certainty, and had delayed for so long a period bestowing her -hand upon me. - -This marriage with Beltran had taken place at Gaucin within an hour of -my departure from that town, after making the arrangements for our -combined attack on Ronda; and had been strongly advocated by Melchor, -from an apprehension that, should any thing happen to him in the -approaching conflict, his elder brother, Alonzo, who was kept in perfect -ignorance of this proceeding, would abandon his friend Beltran, and -insist on their sister's marrying me, whom he (Melchor) detested. - -I, however, as you are aware, had every reason to believe that Beltran -had been killed by his fall from the rock of Montejaque; and therefore, -on eventually eliciting from Engracia the reason of her reluctance to -marry me, I had no scruple in declaring that Beltran's dead body had -been seen rolling down the shallow pebbly bed of the Guadiaro, after our -action with the French. The crime I had led her to commit was -consequently unintentional. Would I could as easily acquit myself of -another her letter accused me of, namely, that of being the murderer of -her brother: for, through my machinations was his death brought about. - -Whilst the crop-eared traitor, Beltran, (the _Tio's_ revengeful feelings -were not so entirely allayed as to prevent his bestowing an occasional -term of reproach on those who had thwarted his prosperous career of -iniquity) was skulking about the mountains, endeavouring to obtain -tidings of his re-married wife, chance threw him in the way of Paca, -engaged in a similar pursuit, but with a very different purpose. - -This wretched woman had, for many years after our separation, been the -inmate of a mad-house; but, at length, her keepers finding that, -excepting on the subject of her supposed wrongs, she was perfectly -tractable, became careless of watching her, and she effected her escape. - -The sole object of this vindictive creature's life appears now to have -been to wreak vengeance upon me. But not satisfied with the mere death -of her victim, she sought first to torture him with worldly pangs; and -informed that Engracia lived, and had given birth to a son, whom I loved -with a more fervent affection than even the mother, she determined -_they_ should first be sacrificed to her revenge. - -On discovering Beltran alive, however, a scheme yet more hellishly -devised entered her imagination; in the execution of which he became a -willing agent, though in some degree her dupe. - -Well acquainted with all my haunts, she soon got upon my track; and that -discovered, had little difficulty in finding out the hiding-place of -Engracia. Making a shrewd guess at the person under whose protection I -had placed my wife and child, she forthwith presented herself to Don -Miguel, and informed him that a plot was laid, and on the eve of -execution, to carry them both off; adding, that it might yet be -frustrated if I could but arrive at Canete within twenty-four -hours--that she knew where I then was, and would undertake to have any -warning conveyed to me which his prudence might suggest--that her -messenger was sure, but still the utmost caution, as well as despatch, -was necessary. - -Miguel, quite taken by surprise, and unable from illness to leave his -bed, wrote the short note which has already been given; and this point -gained, Paca proceeded to the nearest town to give information to the -authorities that the bandit Blas, whom they were seeking in every -direction, was to be at Canete la Real on a certain night; and proposed, -if a detachment of troops was sent quietly to the neighbouring village -of El Becerro, that she would repair thither at the proper time, and -conduct the soldiers to the traitor's very lair. - -This proposal was readily acceded to, and Paca then repaired to Canete, -to tell Miguel not to be uneasy as to the result of his message to me, -as, since sending it, she had ascertained on good authority that -something had occurred to postpone the elopement of Engracia for a day -or two. - -Bending her steps thence to where Beltran was anxiously awaiting her -return, she told him that after much difficulty she had discovered -Engracia was at Canete; he had therefore but to proceed there after -dark, provided with the means of carrying her off. But this, she -informed him, must be done with the utmost celerity and circumspection, -as the inhabitants of the place were so desperate a set, and so attached -to me, that, if they got the slightest inkling of what was going -forward, they certainly would handle him very roughly; and the -authorities, unless backed by a body of troops, would be afraid to -interfere in his behalf. - -If, however, she pursued, he preferred waiting until an escort could be -procured, that he might avoid all personal risk--but delays were -dangerous, for frequently - - _"De la mano a la boca_ - _se cae la sopa._"[149] - -The law, too, was uncertain.--He thought so also, and they proceeded -together to Canete. - -Beltran, imagining that Paca had informed Engracia of his being alive, -conceived that no intimation of his coming was requisite; but such was -not the case, and the shock given by his unexpected visit caused the -aberration of mind which led the hapless Engracia to commit the horrid -crime of infanticide; and, in the state of inanition that followed, she -was carried out of the town. - -The letter to me was written afterwards, and delivered to the old woman -of the house by Paca, the last act of whose fiendish plot now commenced. - -Altering the date of Miguel's letter, so as to make it correspond with -the time arranged for the arrival of the troops at _La Cueva del -Becerro_, she forwarded it to me at Montejaque--what followed has -already been stated. - -These details became known on my trial, which took place shortly -afterwards. I was condemned to suffer death by the _garrote_. The day -was fixed; I sent for a priest, and entrusting to him the ring given me -by the ----, begged he would forward it without delay to Madrid. - -This was done, but day after day passed without bringing any answer to -my appeal. At first I had been so sanguine as to the result, that I was -affected but little at my position, for I knew how easily a pardon is -obtained in Spain, when application is made in the proper quarter; but, -as the fatal time approached, the darkest despair took possession of my -soul. - -I cannot indeed convey to you, Don Carlos, an adequate idea of the -horrible torments I endured during the last few days preceding that -fixed for my execution. The pious father Ignacio--he has since (sainted -soul!) been taken from this earth, and is now, I trust, my intercessor -in heaven--was unremitting in his endeavours to bring me to repentance; -but Satan was yet strong within me, and my heart remained hardened. The -pardon came not, and I exclaimed against the justness of the Most High: -I, whom no considerations of justice had influenced in any one action of -my life--who had recklessly transgressed each of His commandments! - -"We must not ask for _justice_ at the hands of the Almighty," urged -Ignacio; "We are all born in sin, in sin we all live; _mercy_ is what we -must pray for." - -"Mercy!" I exclaimed; "_Why_ was I born in sin? Why led to commit crime? -Why...." - -"Your unbridled passions led you to transgress the laws of your -Creator," replied Ignacio; "be thankful that you were not cut short in -your mad career, and that time has been allowed you for repentance." - -"Repent!--I cannot--I have ever denied, I cannot now believe in the -existence of a Maker." - -"Unhappy man!" ejaculated the worthy priest; "unhappy, impious, -inconsistent man! You deny the existence of the Being against whose -justice your voice was raised e'en now in reproaches! Do you not look -forward to behold again to-morrow the bright luminary round which this -atom of a world revolves? Look on that pale moon, which perhaps you now -see rising for the last time--Observe that fiery meteor which has this -moment dashed through the wondrous, boundless firmament; and ask -yourself if this admirable system can be the effect of accident? Do the -trees yearly yield us their fruits by chance? Is the punctual return of -the seasons a mere casualty? If so, how is it that this accidental -atom--this globe we inhabit, has so long held together _without_ -accident? Has any work of man, however cunningly devised, in like manner -withstood the effects of time? Is not the protecting hand of the Deity -clearly perceptible in the unvarying continuance of these phenomena? - -"My son, had you studied the Holy Scriptures more, and the philosophy of -Voltaire and other infidels less, you would not have been brought to -this strait; neither would you have shocked my ears with a confession, -which, a few years since, would have consigned you to the dungeons of -the Inquisition. Repent! unhappy man, repent! and save your soul--there -is still time. Nay, an omnipotent Maker may even yet think fit to -prolong your life here below, for the perfection of this good work, if -you will but pray to him in all sincerity." - -The pious father saw that I was touched, and, pouring in promises of -future happiness, brought me to reflect. I begged him to be with me -early on the following morning. He came; I had passed the night in -prayer; and now unburdened my mind, by making to him a full confession -of my sins. - -Ignacio remained comforting me, until the hour of the arrival of the -post, when he repaired, as usual, to the _Corregidor_, to ascertain -whether any pardon had reached him. He returned not, however. Eleven -o'clock was the hour fixed for my execution; it came, but still Ignacio -did not appear. Hours passed away, and not a soul visited me; the sun -again sank below the horizon, and I yet lived. - -It was evident--so, at least, I thought--that a pardon had arrived, and -my spirits rose accordingly. At length, towards nightfall, Ignacio -entered my cell. "Blas," he said, "though it would appear there is no -longer a chance of your receiving a pardon, yet your life has been -miraculously spared this day, to give you time for repentance. I trust -you have turned it to good account." - -"How!" I exclaimed, "have I not been pardoned? What, then, has -occasioned this delay?" - -"You owe your life," he replied, "to a rumour, that a band of robbers -had appeared in the vicinity--some of your old friends, it was -thought--which caused all the troops to be sent out in pursuit. They -have but now returned, and to-morrow you will be executed." - -A pang of withering disappointment ran through me, for I had confidently -imagined that the delay had been the consequence of the arrival of a -pardon, and Satan once more obtained dominion over me. - -Ignacio read in my overcast countenance the change his information had -wrought in my feelings. "Your repentance is not sincere, my son," he -observed. "Alas! when death is in sight, how fondly do we cling to this -earth. And yet you have braved death in the field a thousand times!" - -"Father," I replied, "it is not death I fear--it is the disgrace of a -public execution." - -"What absurd sophistry is this?" said he. "Can one, who but yesterday -denied the existence of a future state, care for one moment _how_ he -quits this world, or regard the opinion of those he leaves behind in -it?--as well might he be fearful of losing the good opinion of a herd of -swine. Away with such fine-spun subtilties--it is the prospect of -meeting your Maker face to face that makes you quail. You are yet but -ill prepared, I see. Oh! may He yet mercifully extend your life, if but -a short span." - -The morrow came, but the pious Ignacio's prayer remained apparently -unheard. He repaired to my call soon after the arrival of the post, to -exhort and prepare me. Alas! I was as much in want of his assistance as -ever, for I had all along clung to the hope of obtaining a pardon -through the influence of the ----, and was more inclined to rail than to -pray. - -A party of soldiers at length arrived, and I was led off in chains to -the place of execution. A vast crowd was assembled from all the -neighbouring towns to witness my punishment. Ignacio addressed the -multitude on our way, saying, I was a repentant sinner, and implored the -prayers of all good Christians. For myself I said not a word, and the -crowd gave no signs of either gratification or commiseration. I mounted -the scaffold, the fatal instrument was placed round my throat, a curse -was yet on my lips, when a distant shout attracted the Father's -attention. Laying a hand upon the arm of the executioner to stay his -proceedings, he watched with eager eyes the signs of some one who was -approaching at a rapid pace, holding a paper high in the air. The paper -was handed to Ignacio by the breathless messenger. "It is a pardon," he -exclaimed; "your life is miraculously spared--it has been sent express -from the Escurial! Return your thanks, to Him, who has been pleased thus -to extend his mercy towards you." - -I had already sunk on my knees--I prayed earnestly for the first time in -my life. - -Marvellously, indeed, had my life been preserved. But for the rumoured -appearance of the band of robbers, I should have suffered death the day -before; again, this day, but for Ignacio's presence, the pardon would -have arrived too late. - -I was immediately released, but a fever, caused, probably, by my -previously excited feelings, confined me to my bed for many weeks. I -became delirious, and my life was despaired of. Ignacio tended me like a -brother. A second time he saved my life; but, alas! he himself -contracted the contagious disorder, and fell a victim to his warm and -disinterested friendship. - -I expended all I was worth in masses for his soul, and was once more -thrown upon the world to seek a livelihood. - -I thought of applying to the ---- to procure me some employment, but -learnt that he too had closed his mortal career. The fever had given -such a shock to my constitution, that old age, I may say, came suddenly -upon me, and to gain a livelihood by hard labour was out of the -question. I had no relations; my friends were all new; so that I had no -claims on any one: my present occupation presented itself, as the only -one I was fit for; and, thank God, it enables me to earn my bread -without begging, and even to lay by a little store for pious -purposes:--for much of my time is devoted to the performance of penances -and austerities, to expiate the sins of my past life. Thrice, on my -knees, have I ascended to the _Ermita_ you see there peeping through the -clouds gathered round the peaks of the Sierra Morena. Once, too, have I -walked barefoot to prostrate myself before the _Santa faz_[150] of Jaen; -and this winter (God willing!) I purpose visiting the most holy shrine -of _Sant' Iago de Compostela_. - -It is a long journey, and will, probably, be my last pilgrimage, for I -feel myself sinking fast. - -You have now had the history of my whole life, Don Carlos--I wish it -could be published. It might, probably, warn my fellow-creatures to rest -contented with the lot to which it has pleased God to call them; and, if -so, I may have lived to some purpose. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - UNFORESEEN DIFFICULTIES IN PROCEEDING TO MADRID--DEATH OF KING - FERDINAND--CHANGE IN OUR PLANS--ROAD TO - ANDUJAR--ALCOLEA--MONTORO--PORCUNA--ANDUJAR--ARJONA--TORRE - XIMENO--DIFFICULTY OF GAINING ADMISSION--SUCCESS OF A - STRATAGEM--CONSTERNATION OF THE AUTHORITIES--SPANISH ADHERENCE TO - FORMS--CONTRASTS--JAEN--DESCRIPTION OF THE CASTLE, CITY, AND - CATHEDRAL--LA SANTA FAZ--ROAD TO GRANADA--OUR KNIGHTLY - ATTENDANT--PARADOR DE SAN RAFAEL--HOSPITABLE FARMER--ASTONISHMENT - OF THE NATIVES--GRANADA--EL SOTO DE ROMA--LOJA--VENTA DE - DORNEJO--COLMENAR--FINE SCENERY--ROAD FROM MALAGA TO ANTEQUERA, AND - DESCRIPTION OF THAT CITY. - - -I found Cordoba the same dull, sultry, loyal city as at the period of my -former visit; after devoting a day, therefore, to the incomparable -_Mezquita_, we repaired to the police office to redeem our passports, -and have them _vise_ for Madrid, purposing to proceed to the capital by -_Diligence_. We there learnt, however, that our route from Gibraltar, -having passed _near_ the district wherein the cholera had appeared, the -public safety demanded that our journey should be continued on -horseback, and, moreover, that each day's ride should not exceed eight -leagues! - -The prospect of a fortnight's baking on the parched plains of La Mancha -and Castile, which this preposterous precaution held out, was, of -itself, enough to make any one _crusty_; but the additional vexation of -finding that all our precautions had been unavailing, all our -information erroneous, made us return to the _posada_, thoroughly out of -humour with _Las Cosas de Espana_. Our landlord comforted us, however, -by engaging--if we would but wait patiently for a few days, and leave -the business entirely in his hands--to get matters arranged so that we -might yet proceed on to Madrid by the diligence; and, knowing the wheels -within wheels by which Spanish affairs of state are put in motion, we -willingly came to this compromise, and remained quietly paying him for -our breakfasts and dinners during the best part of a week, receiving -each day renewed assurances that every thing was proceeding -"_corriente_." - -The second day after our arrival at Cordoba, the inhabitants were moved -to an unusual degree of excitement, in consequence of an _estafette_ -having passed through the city during the night, bearing despatches from -Madrid to the Captain General of the Province, and rumours were afloat -that the king was so seriously ill as to occasion great fears for his -life; and, on the following day, public anxiety was yet further excited -by a report that the Captain General had passed through Cordoba on his -way to the capital; leading to the general belief that Ferdinand was -actually dead. - -In the evening our host came to us with a very long face, and informed -us, confidentially, that such was the case, though, for political -reasons, it had been deemed prudent not to make the melancholy news -public; adding, that, in consequence of this unforeseen and unfortunate -event, he regretted to say the authorities had been seized with such a -panic, that he had altogether failed in his endeavour to have the stain -effaced from our bill of health. Nevertheless, he said, he hoped yet to -be able to arrange matters so as to ensure our being received into the -diligence, _without any questions being asked_ at Andujar, if we would -but remain quietly where we were for a few days longer, and then proceed -to that place on horseback. - -The news received from Madrid had, however, decided us to give up the -plan of continuing our journey thither. I knew enough of Spain to -foresee what would be the result of all the intrigues which had been -carried on behind the curtains of the imbecile Ferdinand's death-bed. - -"You are quite right, Senor," said Blas, to whom I made known our change -of plans, "we shall now have a disputed succession, for, be assured, Don -Carlos is not the man to forego his just rights without a -struggle.--Alas! this only was wanting to fill my unhappy country's cup -of misery to overflowing." - -Although thus unwillingly forced to abandon the project of crossing the -Sierra Morena, we determined, whilst the country yet remained quiet, to -extend our tour further to the eastward, and, by proceeding along the -_arrecife_ to Madrid as far as Andujar, gain the road which leads from -thence to Jaen; a city, which the want of practicable roads leading from -it to the south has, until late years (during which that deficiency has -been remedied), been very rarely visited by travellers. - -Recommending Senor Blas to postpone his projected barefoot pilgrimage -into Gallicia, until the rainy season had set in, and made the roads -soft, we departed from Cordoba by the great post route to the capital, -which, as far as Alcolea, is conducted along the right bank of the -Guadalquivir, and is a fine, broad, and well-kept gravel road. - -Alcolea is seven miles from Cordoba. It is a small village of but twenty -or thirty houses, and, in the opinion of Florez, occupies the site of -the ancient town of Arva. The _arrecife_ here crosses to the left bank -of the river by a handsome marble bridge, of eighteen arches, built in -1788-92. The passage of this bridge was obstinately contested by the -Spaniards, in the campaign of 1808, but a party of the French, which -had crossed the river at Montoro, falling upon its defenders in flank, -forced them to retreat. - -From hence to Carpio is ten miles. The country is undulated, and the -road--along which there is not a single village, and scarcely half a -dozen houses--keeps within sight of the Guadalquivir the whole way, -affording many pleasing views of the winding stream and its overhanging -woods and olive groves. - -The town of Carpio is left about a quarter of a mile off, on the right. -It is situated on a hill, and by some is supposed to be the ancient city -of Corbulo. Pliny, however, distinctly says that place was _below_ -Cordoba, and Florez fixes it in the vicinity of Palma. - -From Carpio to Aldea del Rio is twelve miles, the country continuing -much the same as heretofore. At three miles, the road reaches the small -town of Pedro Abad (or Perabad) in the vicinity of which is a -_despoblado_,[151] where various medals and vestiges have been found -that determine it to be the site of Sacili, mentioned by Pliny. - -Proceeding onwards, the town of Bujalance may occasionally be seen on -the right, distant about a league and a half from the Guadalquivir; and -at seven miles from Carpio, we passed Montoro, a large town situated on -the margin of the river, and about three quarters of a mile to the left -of the _arrecife_. This town has been determined by antiquaries to be -Ripepora. - -The country about Aldea del Rio is rather pretty, and the place has a -thriving look compared with the miserable towns we had lately seen; its -population is about 1,800 souls. We halted here for the night, and found -the _posada_ most wretched. - -At a distance of nine (geographic) miles from Aldea del Rio, in a -south-east direction, is the town of Porcuna; its situation, Florez -justly observes, agreeing so well with that of Obulco, as given both by -Strabo[152] and Pliny,[153] as to leave no doubt of their identity. -Inscriptions, monuments, coins, &c., which have been found there, quite -confirm this opinion, and an important point is thus gained in tracing -the operations of Caesar in his last campaign against the sons of Pompey; -since Obulco, which he is mentioned as having reached in twenty-seven -days from Rome, may be considered the advanced post of the country that -was favourable to his cause. - -The present ignoble name of the town--Porcuna,--appears to have been -bestowed upon it from the extraordinary fecundity of a _sow_; an -inscription, commemorative of the birth of thirty young pigs at one -litter, being preserved to this day in the church of the Benedictine -friars, and is thus worded:-- - - C. CORNELIVS. C. F. - CN. GAL. CAESO. - AED. FLAMEN. II. VIR - MVNICIPII. PONTIF - C. CORN. CAESO. F. - SACERDOS. GENT. MVNICIPII - SCROFAM CVM PORCIS XXX - IMPENSA IPSORVM. - D. D. - -From Aldea del Rio to Andujar is fourteen miles, making the whole -distance from Cordoba to that place forty-three miles. The country is -very gently undulated, and principally under tillage; the ride, however, -is dreary, there being but one house on the road. - -Andujar stands altogether on the right bank of the Guadalquivir, which -is crossed by a bridge of nine arches. The town is reputed to contain a -population of 12,000 souls, but that number is a manifest exaggeration. -It is encompassed by old Roman walls, and defended by an ancient castle, -and is celebrated for its manufacture of pottery. It is, nevertheless, a -dilapidated, impoverished looking place. - -By some Andujar is supposed to be the Illiturgi,[154] or, as it is -otherwise written, Illurtigis of the ancient historians; but Florez -fixes the site of that city two leagues higher up, but on the same bank -of the Guadalquivir, and imagines Andujar to be Ipasturgi. The locality -of the existing town certainly but ill agrees with the description of -Illurtigis given by Livy, for no part of Andujar is "covered by a high -rock."[155] - -The _arrecife_ to Madrid leaves the banks of the Guadalquivir at -Andujar, striking inland to Baylen, and thence across the Sierra Morena -by the pass of _Despena Perros_. After devoting a few hours to exploring -the old walls of the town, we recrossed the river, and bent our steps -towards Granada, taking the road to Jaen. - -We proceeded that afternoon to Torre Ximena, twenty miles from Andujar. -The country is undulated, and mostly under cultivation. The road is--or, -more properly, I should say, perhaps, the places upon the road are--very -incorrectly laid down on the Spanish maps; for, instead of being -scattered east and west over the face of the country, they are so nearly -in line, as to make the general direction of the road nearly straight. -Though but a cross-country track, it is tolerably good throughout. The -first town it visits is Arjona, said to be the ancient Urgao, or -Virgao.[156] It is a poor place, of some twelve or fifteen hundred -inhabitants, and distant seven miles from the Guadalquivir. - -Five miles beyond Arjona, but lying half pistol shot off the road to the -right, is the miserable little village of Escanuela; and three miles -further on, the equally wretched town of Villa Don Pardo. From hence to -Torre Ximeno (five miles) the road traverses a vast plain, but, ere we -had proceeded half way, night overtook us, and on reaching the town we -found all the entrances most carefully closed. - -After making various attempts to gain admission--groping our way from -one barricade to another, until we had nearly completed the circuit of -the town--we perceived a light glimmering at some little distance in the -country, and hoping it proceeded from some _rancha_, where we might -obtain shelter from an approaching storm, if not accommodation for the -night, we spurred our jaded animals towards it as fast as the ruggedness -of the ground would admit. It proved, however, to be only the remains of -a fire made for the purpose of destroying weeds; but a peasant lad, who -was warming his evening meal over the expiring embers, pointed out a -path leading to one of the town gates, at which, he said, we might, -perhaps, gain admission. - -Following his directions, we found the gate without much trouble; but a -difficulty now arose that promised to be of a more insuperable nature, -namely, that of _awaking the guard_, for the combined efforts of our -voices proved quite inadequate to the purpose. - -It was very vexatious, but irresistibly ludicrous; and, prompted by this -mixed feeling of wrath and merriment, we determined to try what effect -would be produced by a general discharge of our pistols, and, -accordingly riding close up to the gate, fired a volley in the air. - -A tremendous discharge of _carajos!_ responded to our _salvo_, and -soldiers, policemen, custom-house officers, and health-officers, sallied -forth, helter skelter, from the guard-house and adjacent dwellings, -making off "with the very extremest inch of possibility," under the -impression that the place was attacked. - -One _aduanero_, however, more enterprising and valiant than the rest, -ventured to peep through the bars of the stockade and demand our -business; on learning which he encouragingly invited the _urbanos_ to -return to their _military duty_, whilst he despatched a messenger to the -_Alcalde_ to request instructions for their further proceedings. - -We were subjected meanwhile to a most vexatious detention, occasioned by -various causes. Firstly, because the village dictator was nowhere to be -found. He had--so it eventually turned out--started from his comfortable -seat at the fire of the _posada_ (where, surrounded by a knot of -politicians, he was discussing the justice of abrogating the Salique -law), at the first report of our fire-arms, and, wrapping his cloak -around him, had rushed into the street, declaring his intention of -meeting death like the last of the Palaeologi, rather than be recognised -and spared, to grace the triumph of a victorious enemy. Then we had to -wait for the key of the gate, which had been carried off in the pocket -of one of the runaway soldiers; and, lastly, for a light, the guard-lamp -having been overturned in the general confusion, and all the oil spilt. - -During the half hour's delay occasioned by these various untoward -circumstances, we were subjected to a long verbal examination, touching -the part of the country whence we had come; for having wandered round -the town in our attempts to gain admission, until we had reached a gate -at the very opposite point of the compass to that which points to -Andujar, the account we gave seemed to awaken great doubts of our -veracity in the minds of these vigilant functionaries; and, even after a -lantern had been brought, and our passports delivered up, we underwent a -minute personal examination, ere being permitted to repair to the -posada. - -The Spaniards say, that we English are "_victimas de la etiqueta_;" and, -certes, we may compliment them, in return, on being the most complete -_slaves to form_. Instances in proof thereof,--which, though on a -smaller scale, were scarcely less laughable than the -foregoing,--occurred daily in the course of our journey. _Par example_, -on leaving the _venta_ at Fuente de Piedra, where our sleeping apartment -was little better than the stable into which it opened, the hostess -insisted on serving our morning cup of chocolate on a table partially -covered with a dirty towel, saying, it would not be "_decente_" to allow -us to take it standing at the kitchen fire. - -Here again, at Torre Ximeno, the landlord was conducting us into what he -conceived to be a befitting apartment, when his better half cried out, -"_a la sala! a la sala!_"[157] We pricked up our ears, fancying we were -to be in clover. The _sala_, however, proved to be a room about ten feet -longer than that into which we were first shown, but in every other -respect its _fac simile_; that is to say, it had bare white-washed walls -and a plastered floor, was furnished with half a dozen low rush-bottomed -chairs, and ventilated by two apertures, which at some distant period -had been closed by shutters. - -The floor presented so uneven a surface, and was marked with so many -rents, that, until encouraged by the landlord's "_no tiene usted -cuidado_,"[158] I was particularly careful where I placed my feet, -taking it to be a highly finished model of the circumjacent sierras and -water-courses. - -After more than the usual difficulties about bills of health and -passports, we received a very civil message from the _Alcalde_, to say, -that his house, &c. &c., were at our disposal; but our host and his -helpmate seemed so well inclined to do what was in their power to make -us _comfortable_, that we declined his polite offer. - -Our landlady was still remarkably pretty, though the mother of four -children--a rare occurrence in Spain, where mothers, however young they -may be, usually look like old women. We had some little difficulty in -persuading her that we did not like garlic, and that we should be -satisfied with a very moderate quantity of oil in the _guisado_[159] she -undertook to prepare for our supper, and on which, with bread and fruit, -and some excellent wine, we made a hearty meal. - -Contrasts in Spain are most absurd. We slept on thin woollen mattresses, -spread upon the before-mentioned mountainous floor--the serrated ridges -of which we had some little difficulty in fitting to our ribs--and in -the morning were furnished with towels bordered with a kind of thread -lace and fringe to the depth of at least eighteen inches; very -ornamental, but by no means useful, since the serviceable part of the -towel was hardly get-at-able. - -On asking our hostess for the bill, we were referred to her husband, -which, as the Easterns say, led us to regard her with the eyes of -astonishment; for this reference from the lady and mistress to her -helpmate, is the exception to the rule, and it was to save trouble we -had applied to her, experience having taught us that the landlady was -generally the oracle on these occasions; _invariably_, indeed, when -there is any intention to cheat. - -This, without explanation, may be deemed a most ungallant accusation; I -do not mean by it, however, to screen my own sex at the expense of the -fairer, for the truth is, the man adds duplicity to his other sins, by -retiring from the impending altercation. This he does either from -thinking that imposition will come with a better grace from his better -half, or, that she will be more ingenious in finding out reasons for the -exorbitance of the demand, or, at all events, words in defending it; for -any attempt at expostulation is drowned in such a torrent of whys and -wherefores, that one is glad, _coute qui coute_, to escape from the -encounter. And thus, whilst the lady's volubility is extracting the -money from their lodger's pocket, mine host stands aloof, looking as -like a hen-pecked mortal as he possibly can, and shrugging his -shoulders from time to time, as much as to say, "It is none of my doing! -I would help you if I dare, but you see what a devil she is!" - -On the present occasion, however, we had no reason to remonstrate, for, -to a very moderate charge, were added numerous excuses for any thing -that might have been amiss in our accommodation, in consequence of their -ignorance of our wants. - -Torre Ximeno is situated in a narrow valley, watered by a fine stream; -its walls, however, reach to the crest of the hills on both sides, and -apparently rest on a Roman foundation. It contains a population of 1,800 -souls. From hence a road proceeds, by way of Martos and Alcala la Real, -to Granada, but it is more circuitous than that by Jaen. - -From Torre Ximeno to that city is two long leagues, or about nine miles. -The road now takes a more easterly direction than heretofore, and, at -the distance of three miles, reaches the village of Torre Campo. The -rest of the way lies over an undulated country, which slants gradually -towards the mountains, that rise to the eastward. - -Jaen is situated on the outskirts of the great Sierra de Susana, which, -dividing the waters of the Guadalquivir and Genil, spreads as far south -as the vale of Granada. The city is built on the eastern slope of a -rough and very inaccessible ridge, whose summit is occupied by an old -castle, enclosed by extensive outworks. - -The ancient name of the place was Aurinx, and it appears to have stood -just without the limits of ancient Boetica. It is now the capital of -one of the kingdoms composing the province of Andalusia, and the see of -a bishop in the archbishoprick of Toledo. Its population amounts to at -least 20,000 souls. - -Jaen is in every respect a most interesting city. It is frequently -mentioned by the Roman historians, was equally noted in the time of the -Moors, from whom it was wrested by San Fernando, A.D. 1246, and of late -years has held a distinguished place in the pages of military history. -Its situation is picturesque in the extreme, the bright city being on -the edge of a rich and fertile basin, encased by wild and lofty -mountains. The asperity of the country to the south is such indeed, -that, until within the last few years no road practicable for carriages -penetrated it, and Jaen has consequently been but very-little visited by -travellers; for Granada and Cordoba, being the great objects of -attraction, the most direct road between those two places was that which -was generally preferred. - -A direct and excellent road has now, however, been completed, between -Granada and the capital, passing through Jaen. This route crosses the -Guadalquivir at Menjiber, and, directed thence on Baylen, falls into the -_arrecife_ from Cordoba to Madrid, ere it enters the defiles of the -Sierra Morena. - -The castle of Jaen stands 800 feet above the city, and is still a fine -specimen of a Moslem fortress, though the picturesque has been -sacrificed to the defensive by various French additions and demolitions. -It crowns the crest of a narrow ridge much in the style of the castle of -Ximena, to which, in other respects, it also bears a strong resemblance. -Its tanks and subterraneous magazines are in tolerable preservation, but -the exterior walls of the fortress were partially destroyed by the -French, in their hurried evacuation of it in 1812. - -The view it commands is strikingly fine. An extensive plain spreads -northward, reaching seemingly to the very foot of the distant Sierra -Morena, and on every other side rugged mountains rise in the immediate -vicinity of the city, which, clad with vines wherever their roots can -find holding ground, present a strange union of fruitfulness and -aridity. - -The city contains fifteen convents, and numerous manufactories of silk, -linen and woollen cloths, and mats, and has a thriving appearance. The -streets are, for the most part, so narrow, that, with outstretched -arms, I could touch the houses on both sides of them. - -The cathedral is a very handsome edifice of Corinthian architecture, 300 -feet long, and built in a very pure style; indeed every thing about it -is in good keeping for Spanish taste. The pavement is laid in chequered -slabs of black and white marble; the walls are hung with good paintings, -but not encumbered with them; the various altars, though enriched with -fine specimens of marbles and jaspers, are not gaudily ornamented; the -organ is splendid in appearance and rich in tone. - -Some paintings by Moya, particularly a Holy Family, and the visit of -Elizabeth to the Virgin Mary, are remarkably good; and the _Capilla -sagrada_ contains several others by the same master, which are equally -worthy of notice: their frames of polished red marble have a good -effect. - -The only specimens of sculpture of which the cathedral can boast, are -some weeping cherubim, done to the very life. The greatest curiosity it -contains is the figure of Our Saviour on the cross, dressed in a kilt; -but the treasure of treasures of the holy edifice, the proud boast of -the favoured city itself, in fact, is the _Santa faz_--the Holy face. - -The _Santa faz_--so our conductor explained to us--is the impression of -Our Saviour's face, left in stains of blood on the white napkin which -bound up his head when deposited in the sepulchre. This cloth was thrice -folded over the face, so that three of these "_pinturas_," as the priest -called them, were taken. That of Jaen, he said, was the second or middle -one, the others are in Italy--where, I know not, but I have some -recollection of having heard of them when in that country. - -This miraculous picture is only to be viewed on very particular -occasions, or by paying a very considerable fee; but we were perfectly -satisfied with our cicerone's assurance of its "striking resemblance" to -Our Saviour, without requiring the ocular demonstration he was most -solicitous to afford. - -Attached to the cathedral is a kitchen for preparing the morning -chocolate of the priests, and which serves also as a snuggery, -where-unto they retire to smoke their _legitimos_ during the breaks in -their tedious lental services. - -The _Parador de los Caballeros_, in the Plaza _del Mercado_ is -remarkably good, and the view from the front windows, looking towards -the castle is very fine. - -The distance from Jaen to Granada, by the newly made _arrecife_, is -fifty-one miles. It descends gradually into the valley of the Campillos, -arriving at, and crossing the river about two miles from Jaen. - -The valley is wide, flat, and covered with a rich alluvial deposit; and -extends for several leagues in both directions along the course of the -stream, encircling the city with an ever-verdant belt of cultivation. - -For the succeeding three leagues, the road proceeds along this valley, -at first bordered with gardens, orchards, and vineyards, amongst which -numerous cottages and water-mills are scattered, but, after advancing -about five miles, overhung by rocky ridges, and occasionally shaded with -forest-trees. - -On a steep mound, on the right hand, forming the first mountain gorge -that the road enters, is situated the _Castillo de la Guarda_, and, at -the distance of three leagues from Jaen, is the _Torre de la Cabeza_, -similarly situated on the left of the road. Beyond this, another verdant -belt of cultivation gladdens the eye, extending about a mile and a half -along the course of the Campillos. In the midst of this, is the _Venta -del Puerto Suelo_, on arriving at which our _mozo_, who for several days -had been suffering from indisposition, came to inform us "_que no podia -mas_,"[160] requested we would leave him there to rest for a couple of -days; when he hoped to be able to rejoin us at Granada by means of a -_Galera_ that travelled the road periodically. - -We could not but accede to his request, and as we purposed reaching -Granada on the following day, the loss of his attendance for so short a -period was of little importance; the only difficulty was, who should -lead the baggage animal.--Fortune befriended us. - -On our arrival at the inn we had been accosted by a smart-looking young -fellow, in the undress uniform of a Spanish infantry soldier, who, -seeing the disabled state of our Esquire, volunteered his services to -lead our horses to the stable, and minister to their wants; and now, -learning from our _mozo_ how matters stood, he again came forward, and -offered to be our attendant during the remainder of the journey to -Granada, to which place he himself was proceeding. - -We gladly accepted his proffered services, and, after a short rest, -remounted our horses, and pursued our way; the young soldier--like an -old campaigner--seating himself between our portmanteaus on the back of -the baggage animal. Whilst jogging on before us, I observed, for the -first time, that he carried a bright tin case suspended from his -shoulder by a silken cord, and curious to know the purpose to which it -was applied, asked what it contained. - -Without uttering a word in reply, he took off the case, produced -therefrom a roll of parchment, and, spreading before us a long document -concluding with the words _Io el Rey_,[161] offered it for my perusal. -If my surprise was great at the length of the scroll, it was not -diminished on finding, after wading through the usual verbose and -bombastic preamble, that it dubbed our new acquaintance a knight of the -first class of _San Fernando_, and decorated him with the ribbon and -silver clasp of the same distinguished order. - -On first addressing him at the Venta, I had noticed a bit of ribbon on -his breast, but, aware that the very smell of powder, even though it -should be but that of his own musket, often _entitles_ a Spanish soldier -to a decoration; and, indeed, that it is more frequently an -acknowledgment of so many months' pay due, than of so much good service -done,[162] I had abstained from questioning him concerning it; but that -the first class decoration of a military order should have been bestowed -on one so low in rank as a corporal, I confess, surprised me; and I -concluded that its possessor was either the brother of the mistress of -some great man, or that he was passing off some other person's _honors_ -as his own. - -Being a very young man, it was evident he could not have seen much -service; my suspicions were, therefore, excusable, and I took the -liberty of cross-questioning him concerning the fields wherein his -laurels had been gathered. The result gave me such satisfaction that I -feel in justice bound to make the _amende honorable_ to the gallant -fellow for the foul suspicions I had entertained, by giving my readers -his history. As, however, it is somewhat long, I will postpone it for -the present--as, indeed, not having arrived at its conclusion for -several days, it is but methodically correct I should do--merely -premising in this place, that, besides the _Diploma_, the tin case -contained a statement of the particular services for which he obtained -his knighthood, drawn up and attested by the officers of his regiment. - -About a mile beyond the Venta where we had fallen in with our new -attendant, the country again becomes very wild and broken, and the hills -are covered with pine woods. The valley of the Campillos gets more and -more confined as the road proceeds, and is bounded by precipitous rocks; -and, at length, on reaching the _Puerta de Arenas_, the passage, for the -road and river together, does not exceed sixty feet, the cliffs rising -perpendicularly on both sides to a considerable height. - -This is a very defensible pass, looking towards Granada, but not so in -the opposite direction, as it is commanded by higher ground. It is about -eighteen miles from Jaen. - -On emerging from the pass, an open, cultivated valley presents itself; -towards the head of which, distant about four miles, is Campillos -Arenas, a wretched village, containing some fifty or sixty _vecinos_. We -were stopt at the entrance by an old beggarman, who was officiating as -_health_ officer, and demanded our passports, which, on receiving, he -ceremoniously forwarded to Head Quarters by a ragged, barefoot urchin, -with the promise of an _ochavo_[163] if he used despatch in bringing -them back to us. - -Our passports had now become a serious nuisance, from being completely -covered with _vises_ both inside and out; for, of course, the curiosity -of the natives was proportioned to the number of signatures they -contained, and their astonishment was boundless that we should be -travelling south at such a moment. At length, our papers were returned -to us, and the boy gained his promised reward by running with all his -might, to prove that the tedious delay we experienced was not -attributable to him. - -Proceeding onwards, in three quarters of an hour, we reached the -_Parador de San Rafael_, a newly built house of call for the diligence, -recently established on this road. It is about twenty-four miles from -Jaen, and twenty-seven from Granada, though, as the crow flies, the -distance is rather shorter, perhaps, to the latter city than to the -first named. It is a place of much resort, and we were happy to find -that San Rafael presided over comfortable beds, and good dinners, though -rather careless of the state of the wine-cellar. - -We started at an early hour next morning, our knightly attendant, with -his red epaulettes, and janty foraging cap, together with a _de haut en -bas_ manner assumed towards the passing peasantry and arrieros, causing -us to be regarded with no inconsiderable degree of respect. - -The road, for the first eight miles, is one continuation of zig zags -over a very mountainous country, and must be kept up at an immense -expense to the government, for there is but very little traffic upon it. -The hills are principally covered with forests of ilex, but patches of -land have recently been taken into cultivation in the valleys, and -houses are thinly scattered along the road. At ten miles and a half, we -passed the first village we had seen since leaving Campillos Arenas. It -is about a mile from the road on the left. The country now becomes less -rugged than heretofore, though it continues equally devoid of -cultivation and inhabitants. - -We were much disappointed at not finding a good _posada_ on the road, as -we had been led to expect. We passed two in process of building on a -magnificent scale, but nothing could be had at either. At last, after -riding four long leagues--at a foot's pace, on account of our baggage -animal--a farmer took compassion upon us, and, leading the way to his -_Cortijo_, supplied our famished horses with a feed of barley, and set -before ourselves all the good things his house afforded--melons, grapes, -fresh eggs, and delicious bread. - -We arrived at the farmer's dinner hour, and a wide circle, comprising -his wife, children, cowherds, ploughboys, and dairymaids, was already -formed round the huge family bowl of _gazpacho fresco_, of which we -received a general invitation to partake. It was far too light a meal, -however, to satisfy the cravings of our appetites, and politely -declining to dip our spoons in their common mess, we commenced making -the usual preparations for an English breakfast, by unpacking our -travelling canteen and placing a skillet of water upon the fire. - -The curiosity of the peasantry on these occasions amused us exceedingly. -In this instance the spectators, who probably had never before come in -such close contact with Englishmen, watched each of our movements with -the greatest interest. The beating up an egg as a substitute for milk, -excited universal astonishment; and the production of knives, forks, and -spoons, took their breath away; but when our travelling teapot was -placed on the table, their wonderment defies description; many started -from their seats to obtain a near view of the extraordinary machine, -and our host, after a minute examination, venturing, at last, to expose -his ignorance by asking to what use it was applied, exclaimed in -raptures, as if it was a thing he had heard of, "_y esa es una -tepa!_"[164] "_Una tepa!_" was repeated in all the graduated intonations -of the three generations of spectators present; "_una tepa! caramba! que -gente tan fina los Ingleses!_" - -We now carried on the joke by inflating an air cushion, but the use to -which it was applied alone surprised them; for our host with a nod -signifying "I understand," took down a huge pig-skin of wine, and made -preparations to transfer a portion of its contents to our portable -_caoutchouc_ pillow. On explaining the purpose to which it was applied, -"_Jesus! una almohada!_"[165] exclaimed all the women with one -accord--"_Que gente tan deleytosa!_"[166] - -Our percussion pistols next excited their astonishment, and by ocular -demonstration only could we convince them that they were fired without -"una piedra;"[167] but when I assured our host that, in England, -_diligences_ were propelled by steam at the rate of ten leagues an hour, -his amazement was evidently stretched beyond the bounds of credulity. -"_Como! sin caballos, sin mulas, sin nada, sino el vapor!_"[168] he -ejaculated; and his shoulders gradually rising above his ears, as I -repeated the astounding assertion, he turned with a look, half horror, -half amazement, to his assembled countrymen, saying as plainly as eyes -could speak--either these English deal largely with the devil, or are -most extraordinary romancers. - -If our equipment surprised them, we were not less astonished at the -number of cats, without tails, that were prowling about the house; and -asking the reason for mutilating the unfortunate creatures in this -unnatural way, our host replied, "These animals, to be useful, must have -free access to every part of the premises; but, when their tails are -long, they do incredible mischief amongst the plates, dishes, and other -friable articles, arranged upon the dresser, or left upon the table; -whereas, docked as you now see them, they move about without ceremony, -and, even in the midst of a labyrinth of crockery, do not the slightest -damage. All the mischief of this animal is in his tail." - -We had great difficulty in persuading our hospitable entertainer to -accept of any remuneration for what he had furnished us, and only -succeeded by requesting he would distribute our gift amongst his -children. - -From his farm, which is called the _Cortijo de los Arenales_, to -Granada, is nine miles. The country, during the whole distance, is -undulated, and mostly covered with vines and olives. On the right, some -leagues distant, we saw the town and _tajo_ of Moclin; and at three -miles from the _Cortijo_ crossed the river Cubillas, which, flowing -westward to the plain of Granada, empties itself into the Genil. A -little way beyond this the Sierra de Elvira rises abruptly on the right, -and thenceforth the ground falls very gradually all the way to Granada. - -Our sojourn at Granada was prolonged much beyond the period we had -originally intended, by the difficulty of ascertaining the truth of a -report that the cholera had appeared at Malaga; but, at length, it was -officially notified by a proclamation of the captain-general, that in -answer to a despatch sent to the governor of Malaga, he had been assured -that city was perfectly free from the disease; and a caravan, composed -of numberless _galeras_, _coches_, and _arrieros_, that had been -detained at Granada for a fortnight in consequence of this rumour, -forthwith proceeded to the sea-port. - -Sending our baggage animal forward, directing the mozo--whose -indisposition had abated so as to allow of his rejoining us, and -resuming his duty--to proceed along the high road to Loja until we -overtook him, we set off ourselves at mid-day to visit the _Soto de -Roma_.[169] - -The road thither strikes off from the _arrecife_ to Loja, soon after -passing the city of Santa Fe,[170] and traversing Chauchina, after much -twisting and turning, reaches Fuente Vaquero, a village belonging to the -Duke of Wellington, where his agent, General O'Lawler, has a house. - -From thence a long avenue leads to the _Casa Real_, which is situated on -the right bank of the Genil. The avenue, both trees and road, is in a -very bad state. On the left hand there is a wood of some extent; the -forest-trees it contains are chiefly elms and white poplars, but there -are also a few oaks. The ground is extremely rich, and was covered with -fine crops of maize and hemp; and, on the whole, it struck me the estate -was in better order than the properties adjoining it. - -The house, however, which at the period of my former visit to Granada -was in a tolerable state of repair, I now found in a wretched plight. -The court-yard was made the general receptacle for manure; the -coach-house and stables were turned into barns and cattle-sheds; the -garden was overgrown with weeds; and, basking in the sun, lay young -pigs amongst the roses. - -From having been the favourite retreat of the Minister Wall, it has -degenerated, in fact, into a very second-rate description of farmhouse. -This change, however, was inevitable; for, besides that the taste for -country-houses is very rare amongst Spaniards, and that the difficulty -of procuring a tenant who would keep it in order would, consequently, be -very great, the situation of the house is not such as a lover of fine -scenery would choose in the vicinity of Granada. - -The estate of the Soto de Roma has suffered great damage within the last -few years, from the Genil having burst its banks, laid waste the -country, and formed itself a new bed; and the stream not being now -properly banked in, keeps continually "_comiendo_"[171] the ground on -both sides. This evil should be corrected immediately, or, in the event -of another extraordinary rise in the river, it may lead to incalculable -mischief. The best and cheapest plan of doing this, would be to force -the stream back into its old channel. The elm woods on the estate would -furnish excellent piles for this purpose, and, by being cut down, would -clear some valuable ground which at present lies almost profitless. - -After recrossing the Genil we arrived at another village, inhabited by -the peasantry of the Soto de Roma, and soon after at a wretched place -called Cijuela. The country in its vicinity was flooded for a -considerable extent, and we had great difficulty in following the road, -and avoiding the ditches that bound it. At length we got once more upon -the _arrecife_, and reached Lachar; a vile place, reckoned four leagues -from Granada. - -From thence to the Venta de Cacin is called two leagues, but they are of -Brobdignag measurement. The road is heavy, and the country becomes hilly -soon after leaving Lachar. A league beyond the Venta de Cacin is the -Venta del Pulgar, situated in the midst of gardens and olive -plantations. - -It was 11 P.M. when we arrived, for, having missed our way in fording -the wide bed of the river Cacin (which crosses the road just beyond the -Venta of that name), we had wandered for two hours in the dark; and -might have done so until morning, but that our progress was cut short by -the river Genil. We thought the wisest plan would be to return to the -venta, and endeavour to procure a guide, which we fortunately succeeded -in doing. The _ventero_ had previously informed us that he had seen our -_mozo_ pass on with the baggage animal towards Loja, which made us -rather anxious for its safety, otherwise we should have rested at his -house for the night. - -On arriving at the Venta del Pulgar, we found our attendant established -there, and in some little alarm at our prolonged absence. Indeed the -faithful fellow was so uneasy, that he was about proceeding on a fresh -horse in search of us. The night was excessively cold, and we duly -appreciated the fire and hot supper his providence had caused to be -prepared. - -This venta is but a short league from Loja, the ride to which place is -very delightful, the rich valley of the Genil (here contracted to the -width of a mile) being on the right, a fine range of mountains on the -left, whilst the river frequently approaches close to the road, adding -by its snakelike windings to the beauty of the scenery. - -The town of Loja stands on the south side of a rocky gorge, by which the -Genil escapes from the fertile _Vega_ of Granada. The mountains on both -sides the river are lofty, and of an inaccessible nature, so that the -old Moorish fortress, though occupying the widest part of the defile, -completely commands this important outlet from the territory of Granada, -as well as the bridge over the Genil. - -It was a place of great strength in times past, and Ferdinand and -Isabella were repulsed with great loss on their first attempt to gain -possession of it. The second attack of the "Catholic kings," made some -years afterwards (i. e. in 1487), was more successful, and the English -auxiliaries, under the Earl of Rivers, particularly distinguished -themselves on the occasion. - -Loja is proverbially noted for the fertility of its gardens and -orchards, the abundance and purity of its springs, and the loose morals -and hard features of its inhabitants. Its situation is peculiarly -picturesque, the town being built upon a steep acclivity, unbosomed in -groves of fruit trees and overlooked by a toppling mountain. The view of -the distant _Sierra Nevada_ gives additional interest to the scenery. It -contains a population of 9000 souls. - -From Loja to Malaga is forty-three miles. The country throughout is -extremely mountainous, but the road, nevertheless, is so good as to be -traversed by a diligence. Soon after leaving Loja, a road strikes off to -the right to Antequera, four leagues; and this, in fact, is the great -road from Granada to Seville, and the only portion of it that is -interrupted by mountains. - -The _arrecife_ to Malaga, leaving the village of Alfarnate to the left, -at sixteen miles, reaches the solitary venta of the same name; and two -miles beyond, the equally lonely venta of Dornejo, considered the -half-way house from Loja. The view from hence is remarkably fine, and we -enjoyed the scenery to perfection, having remained the night at the -venta, and witnessed the splendid effects of both the setting and rising -sun. - -This is the highest point the road reaches, and is, I should think, -about 4000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean. - -From the Venta de Dornejo the road proceeds to El Colmenar, eight miles. -The mountains that encompass this little town are clad to their very -summits with vines, and from the luscious grapes grown in its -neighbourhood is made the sweet wine, well known in England under the -name of Mountain. - -From El Colmenar the road is conducted nine miles along the spine of a -narrow tortuous ridge, that divides the Gualmedina, or river of Malaga, -from various streams flowing to the eastward, reaching, at last, a point -where a splendid view is obtained of the rich vale of Malaga, encircled -by the boldly outlined mountains of Mijas, Monda, and Casarabonela. The -_coup d'oeil_ is truly magnificent; the bright city lies basking in -the sun, on the margin of the Mediterranean, seemingly at the -spectator's feet; but eight miles of a continual descent have yet to be -accomplished ere reaching it. - -The engineer's pertinacious adherence to his plan of keeping the road on -one unvarying inclined plane, tries the patience to an extraordinary -degree, but the work is admirably executed. In the whole of these last -eight miles there is not one house on the road side, though several neat -villas are scattered amongst the ravines below it, on drawing near -Malaga. - -This difficult passage through the Serrania has been effected only at an -enormous cost of money and labour; but, as a work of art, it ranks with -any of the splendid roads lately made across the Alps. The scenery along -it, especially after gaining the southern side of the principal -mountain-chain, when the Mediterranean is brought to view, surpasses any -thing that is to be met with in those more celebrated, because more -frequented, cloud-capped regions. - -Another very fine road has been opened through the mountains between -Malaga and Antequera. The scenery along this is very grand, though -inferior to that just described. The distance between the two places is -about twenty-eight miles, reckoned eight leagues. The road is conducted -along the valley of Rio Gordo, or Campanillos; and, it is alleged, -through some private influence was made unnecessarily circuitous, to -visit the Venta de Galvez. This, and two other ventas, are almost the -only habitations on the road. About four miles from Antequera, the road -reaches the summit of the great mountain-ridge that pens in the -Guadaljorce, which falls very rapidly on its northern side. - -Antequera is situated near the foot of the mountain, but in a hollow -formed by a swelling hill, which, detached from the chain of sierra, -shelters it to the north. It is a large, well-built, and populous city, -contains twenty religious houses, numerous manufactories of linen and -woollen cloths, silks, serges, &c., and 40,000 souls. - -An old castle, situated on a conical knoll, overlooks the city to the -east. It formerly contained a valuable collection of ancient armour, but -the greater part has been removed. - -The city of _Anticaria_ is mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus; but, -as no notice is taken of it by Pliny, it probably was known in his day -by some other name. Some antiquaries have imagined Antequera to be -Singilia; but this is very improbable, as it is nearly four leagues -distant from the Singilis (Genil). - -Even the Guadaljorce does not approach within a mile of the city, which -depends upon its fountains for water; for though a fine rivulet flows -down from the mountains at the back of the city, washing the eastern -base of the castle hill, and sweeping round to the westward, where it -unites with the Guadaljorce, yet it merely serves to render the valley -fruitful, and to turn the wheels of the mills which supply the city with -flour and oil. - -At a league north-east from Antequera a lofty conical mountain, -distinguished by the romantic name of _El Penon de los Enamorados_ (Rock -of the Lovers), rises from the plain; and a league beyond it is the town -of Archidona, on the great road from Granada to Seville. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - MALAGA--EXCURSION TO MARBELLA AND - MONDA--CHURRIANA--BENALMAINA--FUENGIROLA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF SUEL--SCALE TO BE ADOPTED, IN ORDER TO MAKE - THE MEASUREMENTS GIVEN IN THE ITINERARY OF ANTONINUS AGREE WITH THE - ACTUAL DISTANCE FROM MALAGA TO CARTEIA--ERRORS OF CARTER--CASTLE OF - FUENGIROLA--ROAD TO MARBELLA--TOWERS AND CASA FUERTES--DISPUTED - SITE OF SALDUBA--DESCRIPTION OF MARBELLA--ABANDONED MINES--DISTANCE - TO GIBRALTAR. - - -We found Malaga a deserted city, for the dread of cholera had carried -off half its inhabitants; not, however, to their last home, but to -Alhaurin, Coin, Churriara, and other towns in the vicinity, in the hope -of postponing their visit to a final resting-place by a temporary change -to a more salubrious atmosphere than that of the fetid seaport. - -Our zealous and indefatigable consul, Mr. Mark, still, however, remained -at his post, and his hospitality and kindness rendered our short stay as -agreeable as, under existing circumstances, it well could be. - -Understanding that a vessel was about to proceed to Ceuta in the course -of a few days, we resolved to take advantage of this favourable -opportunity of visiting that fortress--the Port Jackson of Spain; and -having already seen every thing worthy of observation in Malaga (of -which due notice has been taken in a former chapter), we agreed to -devote the intervening days to a short excursion to Marbella, Monda, and -other interesting towns in the vicinity. - -Leaving, therefore, the still hot, but no longer bustling city, late in -the afternoon, we took the road to the ferry near the mouth of the -Guadaljorce, and leaving the road to _El Retiro_ to the right on gaining -the southern bank of the river, proceeded to Churriana. - -We were disappointed both in the town and in the accommodation afforded -at the inn, for the place being much resorted to by the merchants of -Malaga, we naturally looked forward to something above the common run of -Spanish towns and Spanish posadas, whereas we found both the one and the -other rather below par. The town is quite as dirty as Malaga, but, -perhaps, somewhat more wholesome; for the filth with which the streets -are strewed _not_ being watered by a trickling stream, to keep it in a -state of fermentation throughout the summer, is soon burnt up, and -becomes innoxious. - -The town stands at a slight elevation above the vale of Malaga, and -commands a fine view to the eastward. - -We left the wretched venta betimes on the following morning, and -proceeded towards Marbella, leaving on our left the little village of -Torre Molinos, situated on the Mediterranean shore (distant one league -from Churriana), and reaching Benalmaina in two hours and a half. The -road keeps the whole way within half a mile of the sea, and about the -same distance from a range of barren sierras on the right. No part of it -is good but the ascent to Benalmaina (or, as it is sometimes, and -perhaps more correctly written, Benalmedina), is execrable. - -This village is surrounded with vineyards, and groves of orange and fig -trees; is watered by a fine clear stream, which serves to irrigate some -patches of garden-ground, as well as to turn numerous mill-wheels; and, -from the general sterility of the country around, has obtained a -reputation for amenity of situation that it scarcely deserves. - -In something less than an hour, descending the whole time, we reached -the Mediterranean shore, and continuing along it for a mile, arrived at -the Torre Blanca--a high white tower, situated on a rugged cliff that -borders the coast, and in the vicinity of which are numerous ruins. Some -little distance beyond this the cliffs terminate, and a fine plain, -covered with gardens and orchards, stretches inland for several miles. - -Nature has been peculiarly bountiful to this sunny valley, for the river -of Mijas winds through, and fertilizes the whole of its eastern side; -whilst the western portion is watered by the river Gomenarro, or--word -offensive to British ears--Fuengirola. - -The plain is about two miles across, and near its western extremity; and -a little removed from the seashore is the fishing village of Fuengirola. -It is a small and particularly dirty place, but contains a population of -1000 souls. The distance from Malaga is reckoned by the natives five -leagues, "three long and two short," according to their curious mode of -computation; but, I think, in reducing them to English miles, the usual -average of four per league may be taken. The last league of the road is -very good. The town of Mijas, rich in wine and oil, is perched high up -on the side of a rugged mountain, about four miles north of Fuengirola. -A _trocha_ leads from thence, over the mountains, into the valley of the -Guadaljorce, debouching upon Alhaurinejo; and to those in whose -travelling scales the picturesque outweighs the breakneck, I would -strongly recommend this route from Malaga in preference to the tamer, -somewhat better, and, perhaps, rather shorter road, that borders the -coast. - -The old and, alas! too celebrated castle of Fuengirola, or Frangirola, -occupies the point of a rocky tongue that juts some way into the sea, -about half a mile beyond the fishing village of the same name. It is a -work of the Moors, built, as some say, on an ancient foundation, -imagined to be that of Suel; whilst others maintain, that the vestigia -of antiquity built into its walls, were brought there from some place in -the neighbourhood. - -That _Suel_ did not stand here appears to me very evident; for though -the actual distance from Malaga to Fuengirola exceeds but little that -given in the Itinerary of Antoninus from Malaca to Suel, viz., -twenty-one miles--calculating seventy-five Roman miles to a degree of -the meridian;--yet, as the Itinerary makes the whole distance from -Malaca to Calpe Carteia eighty-nine miles,[172] whereas, even following -all the sinuosities of the coast, it can be eked out only to eighty (of -the above standard), it seems clear that the length of the mile has been -somewhat overrated. - -That I may not incur the reproach of "extreme confidence," in venturing -to publish an opinion differing from that of various learned antiquaries -who have written on the subject, I will endeavour to show that my doubt -has, at all events, some reasonable foundation to rest upon. - -Supposing that the distances given in the Itinerary between Malaca and -Calpe Carteia were respectively correct, but that the error--which, in -consequence, was evident--had been made by over-estimating the length of -the Roman mile in use at the period the Itinerary was compiled, I found, -by dividing the _actual_ distance into eighty-nine parts (following such -an irregular line as a road, considering the ruggedness of the country, -might be supposed to take), that it gave a scale of eighty-three and a -third of such divisions to a degree of the meridian; a scale which, as I -have observed in a former chapter, is mentioned by Strabo, on the -authority of Eratosthenes, as one in use amongst the Romans. - -Now, by measuring off twenty-one such parts along the indented line of -coast from Malaga westward, to fix the situation of Suel, I find that, -according to this scale, it would be placed about a mile beyond the -Torre Blanca; that is, at the commencement of the fertile valley, which -has been mentioned as stretching some way inland, and at the bottom of -the bay, of which the rocky ledge occupied by the castle of Fuengirola -forms the western boundary; certainly a much more suitable site, either -for a commercial city, or for a fortress, than the low, rocky headland -of Fuengirola, which neither affords enough space for a town to stand -upon, nor is sufficiently elevated above the adjacent country, to have -the command that was usually sought for in building fortresses previous -to the invention of artillery. - -Proceeding onwards, and measuring twenty-four divisions (of this same -scale) from the point where I suppose Suel to have stood, along the yet -rugged coast to the westward of Fuengirola, the site of Cilniana, the -next station of the Itinerary, is fixed a little beyond where the town -of Marbella now stands; another most probable spot for the Phoenicians -or Romans to have selected for a station; as, in the first place, the -proximity of the high, impracticable, Sierra de Juanel, would have -enabled a fortress there situated to intercept most completely the -communication along the coast; and, in the second, the vicinity of a -fertile plain, and the valuable mines of Istan (from whence a fine -stream flows), would have rendered it a desirable site for a port. - -The next distance, thirty-four miles to Barbariana, brings me to the -_mouth_ of the Guadiaro, (which _can be_ no other than the Barbesula of -the Romans, if we suppose that the road continued, as heretofore, along -the seashore); or, carries me across that river, and also the -Sogarganta, which falls into it, if, striking inland, _as soon as the -nature of the country permitted_, we imagine the road to have been -directed by the straightest line to its point of destination. - -Now, in the first case, the discovery of numerous vestigia, and -inscriptions at a spot two miles up from the mouth, on the eastern bank -of the Barbesula, (i. e. Guadiaro) have clearly proved that to be the -position of the city[173] bearing the same name as the river. We must -not, therefore, look in its neighbourhood for Barbariana; especially as -the vestiges of this ancient town are twelve _English_ miles from -Carteia, whereas the distance from Barbariana to Carteia is stated in -the Itinerary to be but ten _Roman_ miles. - -In the second case, having crossed the Sogarganta about a mile above its -confluence with the Guadiaro, we arrive, at the end of the prescribed -thirty-four miles from Cilniana, at the mouth of a steep ravine by which -the existing road from Gaucin and Casares to San Roque ascends the -chain of hills forming the southern boundary of the valley, and this -spot is not only well calculated for a military station, but exceeds by -very little the distance of ten miles to Carteia, specified in the -Itinerary. - -I suppose, therefore, that Barbariana stood here, where it would have -been on the most direct line that a road _could take_ between Estepona -and Carteia, as well as on that which presented the fewest difficulties -to be surmounted in the nature of the country. - -I will now follow the Roman Itinerary as laid down by Mr. Carter, in his -"Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga."[174] - -The first station, Suel, he fixes at the Castle of Fuengirola; the -second, Cilniana, at the ruins of what he calls Old Estepona. These he -describes as lying _three leagues_ to the eastward of the modern town of -that name, and upwards of a league to the westward of the Torre de las -Bovedas, in the vicinity of which he assumes Salduba stood; but this -very site of Salduba (i. e. the Torre de las Bovedas) is little more -than _two leagues_ from modern Estepona, being just half way between -that place and Marbella--the distance from the one town to the other -scarcely exceeding four leagues, or sixteen English miles--so that, in -point of fact, he fixes Cilniana at _four miles_ to the eastward of -Estepona, instead of three leagues. - -Passing over this error, however, and allowing that his site of Cilniana -was where _he wished it to be_, Mr. Carter, nevertheless, still found -himself in a difficulty; for he had already far exceeded the greater -portion of the _actual_ distance between Malaga and Carteia, although -but half the number of miles specified in the Itinerary were disposed -of; so that twenty-five miles measured along the coast now brought him -within the prescribed distance of Barbariana from Carteia (ten miles), -instead of thirty-four, as stated in the Itinerary! - -To extricate himself, therefore, from this dilemma, he carries the road, -first to the town of Barbesula, situated near the mouth of the river of -the same name, and then _eight miles up the stream_ to Barbariana. - -The objections to this most eccentric route are, however, manifold and -obvious. In the first place, had the road visited Barbesula, that town -would assuredly have been noticed in the Itinerary of Antoninus, because -it would have made so much more convenient a break in the distance -between Cilniana and Carteia, than Barbariana. - -In the next,--had the road been taken to the mouth of the Guadiaro, it -would _there_ have been as near Carteia as from any other point along -the course of that river, with nothing in the nature of the intervening -country to prevent its being carried straight across it: every step, -therefore, that the road was taken up the stream would have -unnecessarily increased the distance to be travelled. - -Thirdly,--had Barbariana been situated _eight miles_[175] up the river, -the road from Barbesula must not only have been carried that distance -out of the way to visit it, but, for the greater part of the way, must -actually have been led back again towards the point of the compass -whence it had been brought; and the town of Barbariana would thereby -have been situated nearly eighteen miles from Calpe Carteia, instead of -ten. - -Mr. Carter probably fell into this error, through ignorance of the -direction whence the Guadiaro flows, for though the last four miles of -its course is easterly, yet its previous direction is due south, or -straight upon Gibraltar; and, consequently, taking the road up the -stream beyond the distance of _four miles_, would have been leading it -away from its destination. And if, on the other hand, we suppose that -Mr. Carter's mistake be simply in the name of the river, and that, by -two leagues up the Guadiaro, he meant up its tributary, the -Sogarganta;[176] still, so long as the road continued following the -course of that stream, it would get no nearer to Carteia, and was, -therefore, but uselessly increasing the distance. - -It is quite unreasonable, however, to suppose that the Romans, who were -in the habit of making their roads as straight as possible, should have -so unnecessarily departed from their rule in this instance, and not only -have increased the distance by so doing, but also the difficulties to be -encountered; for, in point of fact, a road would be more readily carried -to the Guadiaro by leaving the seashore on approaching Manilba, and -directing it straight upon Carteia, than by continuing it along the -rugged and indented coast that presents itself from thence to the mouth -of the river. - -Objections may be taken to the sites I have fixed upon for the different -towns mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, from the absence of all vestiges -at those particular spots; but when the ease with which all traces of -ancient places are lost is considered, particularly those situated on -the seashore, I think such objections must fall to the ground: and, -indeed, Carter himself, who found fault with Florez for supposing the -town of Salduba[177] _could_ have entirely disappeared, furnishes a -glaring instance of the futility of such objections, when he states that -not the least remains of Barbesula were to be traced, whereas, _now_, -they are quite visible. - -The castle of Fuengirola--to which it is time to return from this long -digression--has lately undergone a thorough repair; the whole of the -western front, indeed, has been rebuilt, and the rest of the walls have -been modernised, though they still continue to be badly flanked by small -projecting square towers, and are exposed to their very foundations, so -that the fortress _ought not_ to withstand even a couple of hours' -battering. - -From hence to Marbella is four leagues. During the first, the road is -bad enough, and, for the remaining three, but indifferently good. The -last eight miles of the stony track may, however, be avoided by riding -along the sandy beach, which, when the sun is on the decline, the breeze -light and westerly, and, above all, when the _tide is out_, is pleasant -enough. I may as well observe here, that the Mediterranean Sea really -does ebb and flow, notwithstanding anything others may have stated to -the contrary. - -The whole line of coast bristles with towers, built originally to give -intelligence by signal of the appearance of an enemy. They are of all -shapes and ages; some circular, having a Roman look; others angular, and -either Moorish, or built after Saracenic models; many are of -comparatively recent construction, though all seem equally to be going -to decay. - -These towers can be entered only by means of ladders, and such as are in -a habitable state are occupied by Custom-house guards, or, more -correctly, Custom-house defrauders. Here and there a _Casa fuerta_ has -been erected along the line, which, furnished with artillery and a small -garrison of regular troops, serves as a _point d'appui_ to a certain -portion of the _peculative_ cordon, enabling the soldiers to render -assistance to the revenue officers in bringing the smugglers to _terms_. - -Marbella has ever been a bone of contention amongst the antiquaries; -some asserting that it does not occupy the site of any ancient city; -others, that it is on the ruins of _Salduba_. Of this latter opinion is -La Martiniere, who certainly has better reason for maintaining than -Carter for disputing it. For if that city "stood on a steep headland, -between which and the hill" (behind) "not a beast could pass," it could -not possibly have been on the site where our countryman places it, viz., -at the ruins near the _Torre de las Bovedas_ (seven miles to the -westward), where a wide plain stretches inland upwards of two miles. - -In fact, there are but two headlands between the river Guadiaro and -Marbella, where a town could be built at all answering the foregoing -description; namely, at the _Torre de la Chullera_ and the _Torre del -Arroyo Vaquero_, the former only three, the latter ten miles from the -Guadiaro: and a far more likely spot than either of these is the knoll -occupied by the _Torre del Rio Real_, about two miles to the _eastward_ -of Marbella.[178] - -Marbella stands slightly elevated above the sea, and its turreted walls -and narrow streets declare it to be thoroughly Moorish. Its sea-wall is -not actually washed by the waves of the Mediterranean, so that the town -may be avoided by such as do not wish to be delayed by or subjected to -the nuisance of a passport scrutiny; and the Spanish saying, "_Marbella -es bella, pero no entras en ella_,"[179] significantly, though -mysteriously, suggests the prudence of staying outside its walls; but -this poetical scrap of advice was perhaps the only thing some luckless -_contrabandista_ had left to bestow upon his countrymen, and we, being -in search of a dinner and night's lodging, submitted patiently to the -forms and ceremonies prescribed on such occasions at the gates of a -fortress. - -To do the Spaniards justice, they are not usually very long in their -operations, the first offer being in most instances accepted without -haggling; and accordingly, the _peseta_ pocketed, and every thing -pronounced _corriente_, we proceeded without further obstruction to the -_Posada de la Corona_, which, situated in a fine airy square, we were -agreeably surprised to find a remarkably good inn. - -Marbella, though invested with the pomp and circumstance of war, is but -a contemptible fortress. An old Moorish castle, standing in the very -heart of the town, constitutes its chief strength; for, though its -circumvallation is complete and tolerably erect, considering its great -age, yet, from the inconsiderable height of the walls, and the -inefficient flanking fire that protects them, they could offer but -slight resistance to an enemy. - -A detached fort, that formerly covered the place from attack on the sea -side, and flanked the eastern front of the enceinte of the town, has -been razed to the ground, so that ships may now attack it almost with -impunity. - -The town is particularly clean and well inhabited, the fishing portion -of the population being located more conveniently for their occupation -in a large suburb on its eastern side. The fortress encloses several -large churches and religious houses, besides the citadel or Moorish -castle, so that within the walls the space left for streets is but -small; the inhabitants of the town itself cannot therefore be estimated -at more than five thousand, whilst those of the suburb may probably -amount to fifteen hundred. - -The trade of Marbella is but trifling; the fruit and vegetables grown in -its neighbourhood are, it is true, particularly fine, but the proximity -of the precipitous Sierra de Juanal limits cultivation to a very narrow -circuit round the walls of the town; and, on the other hand, the -valuable mines in the vicinity, which formerly secured Marbella a -prosperous trade, have for many years been totally abandoned: so that, -in fact, there is little else than fish to export. - -There is no harbour, but vessels find excellent holding ground and in -deep water, close to the shore; the landing also is good, being on a -fine hard sand, and I found a small pier in progress of construction. - -It seems probable that in remote times numerous commercial towns were -situated along the coast, between Malaca and Calpe, whence a thriving -trade was carried on with the East, for the whole chain of mountains -bordering the Mediterranean abounds in metallic ores, especially along -that part of the coast between Marbella and Estepona; and it is evident -that mining operations on an extensive scale were formerly carried on -here, since the tumuli formed by the earth excavated in searching for -the precious metals are yet to be seen, as well as the bleached -channels by which the water that penetrated into the mines was led down -the sides of the mountains. - -The metals contained in this range of mountains are, principally, -silver, copper, lead, and iron; of the two former I have seen some very -fine specimens. - -The richness and comparative proximity of these mines led the -Phoenicians and Romans, by whom there is no doubt they were worked, to -neglect the copper mines of Cornwall; for, whilst necessity obliged them -to come to England for tin, it is observable that in many places, where, -in working for that metal, they came also upon lodes of copper, they -carried away the tin only; a circumstance that has rendered some of the -recently worked Cornish copper mines singularly profitable, and leads -naturally to the supposition that the ancients procured copper at a less -expense from some other country. - -In the same way that the old Roman mines in England, from our knowledge -of the vast power of steam, and of the means of applying that power to -hydraulical purposes, have been reopened with great advantage, so also -might those of Spain be again worked with a certainty of success. -Capital and security--the two great wants of Spain--are required however -to enable adventurers to embark in the undertaking. - -Marbella is four leagues from Estepona, and ten from Gibraltar; but -though the first four may be reckoned at the usual rate of four miles -each, yet the remaining six cannot be calculated under four and a half -each, making the whole distance to Gibraltar forty-three miles, and from -Malaga to Gibraltar seventy-nine miles.[180] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - A PROVERB NOT TO BE LOST SIGHT OF WHILST TRAVELLING IN SPAIN--ROAD - TO MONDA--SECLUDED VALLEY OF OJEN--- MONDA--DISCREPANCY OF OPINION - RESPECTING THE SITE OF THE ROMAN CITY OF MUNDA--IDEAS OF MR. CARTER - ON THE SUBJECT--REASONS ADDUCED FOR CONCLUDING THAT MODERN MONDA - OCCUPIES THE SITE OF THE ANCIENT CITY--ASSUMED POSITIONS OF THE - CONTENDING ARMIES OF CNEIUS POMPEY AND CAESAR, IN THE VICINITY OF - THE TOWN--ROAD TO MALAGA--TOWNS OF COIN AND ALHAURIN--BRIDGE OVER - THE GUADALJORCE--RETURN TO GIBRALTAR--NOTABLE INSTANCE OF THE - ABSURDITY OF QUARANTINE REGULATIONS. - - -"_Mas vale paxaro en mano, que buytre volando_"--_Anglice_, a bird in -the hand is worth more than a vulture flying--is a proverb that cannot -be too strongly impressed upon the minds of travellers in Spain; and, -acting up to the spirit of this wise saw, we did not leave our -comfortable quarters at the _Posada de la Corona_ until after having -made sure of a breakfast. For, deeming even a cup of milk at Marbella -worth more than a herd of goats up the sierra, there appeared yet more -reason to think that no venta on the unfrequented mountain track by -which we purposed returning to Malaga could furnish anything half so -estimable as the _cafe au lait_ promised overnight, and placed before us -soon after daybreak. - -We commenced ascending the steep side of the _Sierra de Juanal_ -immediately on leaving Marbella, and, in something under an hour, -reached a pass, on the summit of a ridge, whence a lovely view opens to -the north. The little town of Ojen lies far down below, embosomed in a -thicket of walnut, chesnut, and orange trees; whilst all around rise -lofty sierras, clothed, like the valley, with impervious woods, though -with foliage of a darker hue, their forest covering consisting -principally of cork and ilex. Numerous torrents, (whose foaming streams -can only occasionally be seen dashing from rock to rock amidst the dense -foliage) furrow the sides of the impending ridges, directing their -course towards the little village, threatening, seemingly, to overwhelm -it by their united strength; but, wasting their force against the -cragged knoll on which it stands, they collect in one body at its foot, -and, as if exhausted by the struggle, flow thenceforth tranquilly -towards the Mediterranean, meandering through rich vineyards, and under -verdant groves of arbutus, orange, and oleander. - -Excepting by this outlet, along the precipitous edge of which our road -was practised, there seemed to be no possibility of leaving the sylvan -valley, so completely is it hemmed in by wood and mountain. The descent -from the pass occupied nearly as much time as had been employed in -clambering up to it from the sea-coast, but the road is better. - -The situation of the little town, on the summit of a scarped rock, -clustered over with ivy and wild vines, and moistened by the spray of -the torrents that rush down on either side, is most romantic; the place, -however, is miserable in the extreme, containing some two hundred -wretched hovels, mostly mud-built, and huddled together as if for mutual -support. - -An ill-conditioned _pave_ zigzags up to it, and proceeds onwards along -the edge of a deep ravine towards Monda. The woods, rocks, and water -afford ever-varying and enchanting vistas, but, from the vile state of -the road, it is somewhat dangerous to pay much attention to the beauties -of nature. - -In something more than an hour from Ojen, we reached a pass in the -northern part of the mountain-belt that girts it in, whence we took a -last lingering look at the lovely valley, compared to which the country -now lying before us appeared tame and arid. - -The fall of the mountain on the western side is much more gradual than -towards the Mediterranean, and the road--which does not however improve -in due proportion--descends by an easy slope towards the little river -Seco. The valley, at first, is wide, open, and uncultivated; but, at the -end of about a mile, it contracts to an inconsiderable breadth, and the -steep hills that border it give signs of the husbandman's toils, being -every where planted with vines and olive trees. - -Arriving now at the margin of the _Seco_, the road crosses and recrosses -the rivulet repeatedly, in consequence of the rugged nature of its -banks, and, at length, quitting the pebbly bed of the stream, and -crossing over a lofty mountain ridge that overlooks it to the east, the -stony track brings us to Monda, which is nestled in a deep ravine on the -opposite side of the mountain, and commanded by an old castle situated -on a rocky knoll to the north-west. - -The view from the summit of this mountain is very extensive, embracing -the greater portion of the _Hoya_ de Malaga, the distant sea-bound city, -and yet more remote sierras of Antequera, Alhama, and Granada. The -descent to Monda is extremely bad, though by no means rapid. The -distance of this place from Marbella is stated in the Spanish -Itineraries to be three leagues, but the incessant windings of the road -make it fourteen miles, at least. The houses of Monda are mostly poor, -though some of the streets are wide and good. The population is -estimated at 2,000 souls. - -It is to this day a mooted question amongst Spanish antiquaries whether -Monda, or Ronda _la Vieja_, (as some of them call the ruins of -Acinippo), or any other of several supposed places, be the Roman -_Munda_, where Cneius Scipio gave battle to the Carthaginian generals, -Mago and Asdrubal, B.C. 211, and near whose walls Julius Caesar concluded -his wonderful career of victory by the defeat of Cneius Pompey the -younger, B.C. 42. - -From this discrepancy of opinion, and the inaccuracy of the Spanish -maps, I am induced to offer the following observations (the result of a -careful examination of the country), touching the site of this once -celebrated spot. And, first, with respect to Ronda and Ronda _la Vieja_, -I may repeat what I have already stated in a former chapter, that -neither the situation of those places, nor the nature of the ground in -their vicinity, agrees in any one respect with the description of Munda -and its battle-field, as given by Hirtius;[181] nor, from discoveries -that have recently been made, does there appear to be any ground left -for doubting that those places occupy the sites of Arunda and Acinippo. - -Of the other positions which have been assigned to _Munda_, that most -insisted upon is a spot "three leagues to the _west_ of the present town -of Monda,"[182] and here Carter, adopting the opinion of Don Diego -Mendoza, confidently places it, stating that bones of men and horses -had, in former days, been dug up there; that the peasants called the -spot _Monda la Vieja_, and averred they sometimes saw squadrons of -apparitions fighting in the air with cries and shouts! - -Such a host of circumstantial and phantasmagorical evidence our -countryman considered irresistible, and concluded, accordingly, that -this spot could be no other than that whereon the two mighty Roman -armies contended for empire. He admits, however, that, even in the days -of his precursor, Don Diego, "scarcely any ruins were to be found, the -_whole_ having by degrees been transplanted to modern Monda and other -places." Why they should have been carried three leagues across some of -the loftiest mountains in the country, to be used merely as building -stones, he does not attempt to explain, but, believing such to be the -case, one wonders it never struck him as being somewhat extraordinary -that these pugnacious ghosts should continue fighting for a town of -which not a stone remains. - -But, leaving Mr. Carter for the present, I will retrace my steps to -modern Monda, where it must be acknowledged some little difficulty is -experienced in fitting the Roman city to the spot allotted to it on the -maps, as well as in placing the contending armies upon the ground in its -neighbourhood, so as to agree with the order in which they were arrayed -on the authority of Hirtius. Still, with certain admissions, which -admissions I do not consider it by any means unreasonable to beg, all -apparent discrepancies may be reconciled and difficulties overcome; and, -on the other hand, unless these points be granted, Ronda, Gaucin, or -Gibraltar agree just as well with the Munda of the Roman historian as -the little town of Monda I am about to describe. - -It will be necessary, however, for the perfect understanding of the -subject,--and, I trust, my endeavour to establish the site of Caesar's -last battle-field will be considered one of sufficient interest to -warrant a little prolixity,--to take a glance at the country in the -vicinity of Monda, ere proceeding to describe the actual ground whereon, -according to my idea, the contending armies were drawn up; as it is only -from a knowledge of the country, and of the communications that -intersected it, that the reasons can be gathered for such a spot having -been selected for a field of battle. - -The old castle of Monda, under the walls of which we must suppose--for -this is one of the premised admissions--the town to have been clustered, -instead of being, as at present, sunk in a ravine, stands on the eastern -side of a rocky ridge, projected in a northerly direction from the lofty -and wide-spreading mountain-range, that borders the Mediterranean -between Malaga and Estepona. This range is itself a ramification of the -great mountain-chain that encircles the basin of Ronda, from which it -branches off in a southerly direction, and under the names of Sierras of -Tolox, Blanca, Arboto, and Juanal, presents an almost impassable barrier -between the valley of the Rio Verde (which falls into the Mediterranean, -three miles west of Marbella), and the fertile plains bordering the -Guadaljorce. - -This steep and difficult ridge terminates precipitously about Marbella; -but another branch of the range, sweeping round the little town of Ojen, -turns back for some miles to the north, rises in two lofty peaks above -Monda, and then, taking an easterly direction, juts into the -Mediterranean at Torre Molinos. The towns of Coin and Alhaurin are -situated, like Monda, on rocky projections from the north side of this -range, overhanging the vale of Malaga; and the solitary town of Mijas -stands upon its southern acclivity, looking towards the sea. - -The rugged ramification on which Monda is situated stretches north about -two miles from the double-peaked sierra above mentioned; and though -completely overlooked by that mountain, yet, in every other direction, -it commands all the ground in its immediate neighbourhood, and, without -being very elevated, is every where steep, and difficult of access. The -summit of the ridge is indented by various rounded eminences, and, -consequently, is of very unequal breadth, as well as height. The castle -of Monda stands on one of these knolls, but quite on the eastern side of -the hill, the breadth of which, in this place, scarcely exceeds 400 -yards. At its furthest extremity, however, the ridge, which extends -northward, _nearly a mile_, beyond the town, sends out a spur to the -east, following the course of, and falling abruptly to the Rio Seco; and -the breadth of the hill may here be said to be increased to nearly two -miles. - -Between the river Seco and the Rio Grande (a more considerable stream, -which runs nearly parallel to, and about seven miles from the Seco), the -country, though rudely moulded, is by no means lofty; but round the -sources of the latter river, and along its left bank, rise the huge -sierras of Junquera, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, closing the view from -Monda to the north. - -From the description here given it will be apparent, that the -communications across so mountainous a country must not only be few, but -very bad. Such, indeed, is the asperity of the sierras west of Monda, -that no road whatever leads through them; and, to the south, but one -tolerable road presents itself to cross the lateral ridge, bordering the -Mediterranean, between Marbella and Torre Molinos, viz., that by which -we had traversed it. - -Even on the other half circle round Monda, where the country is of a -more practicable nature, only two roads afford the means of access to -that town, viz., one from Guaro, where the different routes from Ronda -(by Junquera), El Burgo, Alozaina, and Casarabonela, unite; the other -from Coin, upon which place, from an equal necessity, those from Alora, -Antequera, and Malaga, are first directed. - -Monda thus becomes the point of concentration of all the roads -proceeding from the inland towns to Marbella; the pass of Ojen, in its -rear, offering the only passage through the mountains to reach that -city. - -The road from this pass, as has already been described, approaches Monda -by the valley watered by the river Seco; which stream, directed in the -early part of its course by the Sierra de Monda on its right, flows -nearly due north for about a mile and a half beyond where the road to -Monda leaves its bank, receiving in its progress several tributary -streams that rise in the mountains on its left. On gaining the northern -extremity of the ridge of Monda, the rivulet winds round to the -eastward, still washing the base of that mountain, but leaving the hilly -country on its left bank, along which a plain thenceforth stretches for -several miles. The stream again, however, becomes entangled in some -broken and intricate country, ere reaching the wide plain of the -Guadaljorce, into which river it finally empties itself. - -The situation of Monda, with reference to the surrounding country, -having now been fully described, it is necessary, ere proceeding to shew -that the ground in its neighbourhood answers perfectly the account given -of it by Hirtius, to offer some remarks on the causes that may be -supposed to have led to a collision between the hostile Roman armies on -such a spot, since the present unimportant position of Monda seems to -render such an event very improbable. - -Caesar, it would appear, after the fall of Ategua, proceeded to lay siege -to Ventisponte and Carruca--two places, whose positions have baffled the -researches of the most learned antiquaries to determine--his object, -evidently, having been to induce Pompey to come to their relief. His -adversary, however, was neither to be forced nor tempted to depart from -his politic plan of "drawing the war out into length;" but, retiring -into the mountains, compelled Caesar, whose interest it was, on the other -hand, to bring the contest to as speedy an issue as possible, to follow -him into a more defensible country. - -With this view, leaving the wide plain watered by the Genil and -Guadaljorce on the northern side of the mountains, Pompey, we may -imagine, retired towards the Mediterranean, and stationed himself at -Monda; a post that not only afforded him a formidable defensive -position, but that gave him the means of resuming hostilities at -pleasure, since it commanded the roads from Cartama to Hispalis -(Seville), by way of Ronda, and from Malaca, along the Mediterranean -shore, to Carteia,[183] where his fleet lay; and, should his adversary -not follow him, the situation thus fixed upon was admirably adapted for -carrying the war into the country in arms against him, the two opulent -cities of Cartama and Malaca (which there is every reason to conclude -were attached to the cause of Caesar), being within a day's march of -Monda. - -Here, therefore, Pompey occupied a strategical point of great -importance; and Caesar, fully aware of the advantage its possession gave -his opponent, determined to attack him at all risks. - -The hostile armies were separated from each other by a plain five miles -in extent.[184] That of Caesar was drawn up in this plain, his cavalry -posted on the left; whilst the army of Pompey, whose cavalry was -stationed on _both_ wings, occupied a strong position on a range of -mountains, protected on one side by the town of Munda, "_situated on an -eminence_;" on the other, by the nature of the ground, "_for across this -valley_" (i.e. that divided the two armies), "_ran a rivulet, which -rendered the approach to the mountain extremely difficult, because it -formed a morass on the right_." - -Now although the town of Munda is here described as protecting Pompey's -army on one side, yet from what follows it must be inferred that it was -some distance in the rear of his position, since, not only is it stated -that "_Pompey's army was at length obliged to give ground and retire -towards the town_," but it may be taken for granted that, had either -flank rested upon the town, the cavalry would _not_ have been posted on -"_both wings_." - -Moreover, it is stated that "_Caesar made no doubt but that the enemy -would descend to the plain and come to battle_," the superiority of -cavalry being greatly on Pompey's side--"_but_," Hirtius proceeds to -say, "_they durst not advance a mile from the town_," and, in spite of -the advantageous opportunity offered them, "_still kept their post on -the mountain in the neighbourhood of the town_." - -It may therefore be fairly concluded, that Pompey's position was on the -edge of a range of hills, some little distance in advance of the town of -Munda, having a stream running in a deep valley along its front, and a -morass on one flank. Now the question is, Can the ground about Monda be -made to agree with these various premises? Certainly not, if, as is -generally assumed, the battle was fought on the eastern side of the -town; for Pompey's position must, in that case, have extended along the -ridge, so as to have the peaked Sierra, above Monda, on its right, and -the river Seco on its left, whilst Monda itself would have been an -advanced post of the line; and so far from there being a plain "_five -miles_" in extent in front, the country to the east of Monda--though for -some way but slightly marked--is, at the distance of _two_ miles, so -abruptly broken as to render the drawing up of a Roman army impossible. - -In addition to these objections it will be obvious that the half of -Pompey's cavalry on the right, would have been posted on a high -mountain, where it could not possibly act, whilst the whole of Caesar's -(on his left), would have been paralyzed by having to manoeuvre on the -acclivity of a steep mountain and against a fortified town, instead of -being kept in the valley of the river Seco, ready to fall upon the weak -part of the enemy's line as soon as it should be broken. - -What, however, seems to me to be fatal to the supposition that this was -the side of the town on which the battle was fought is, that Caesar's -army would have occupied the road by which alone the small portion of -Pompey's army, that escaped, could have retired upon Cordoba. - -Against the supposition that the battle took place on the _western_ side -of the ridge on which Monda is situated, the objections, though not so -numerous, are equally insurmountable; since there is nothing like a -plain whereon Caesar's army could have been drawn up; the valley of the -river Seco being so circumscribed that, for Pompey's army to have -"_advanced a mile from Monda_," it must not only have crossed the -stream, but mounted the rough hills that there border its left bank; -whereas Caesar's army is stated to have been posted in a plain that -extended five miles from Monda. The half of Pompey's cavalry on the -_left_ would, in this case also, have been uselessly posted on an -eminence. In other respects the supposition is admissible enough, since -Monda would have been in the rear of the left of Pompey's position, but -still a support to the line, and the whole front would have been -"_difficult of approach_," and along the course of a rivulet. - -We will now examine the ground to the north of the town, to which it -strikes me no insuperable objections can be raised. - -We may suppose that Pompey took post with his army fronting Toloz and -Guaro, the only direction in which his enemy could be looked for, and -where the ground is so little broken, as certainly to allow of its being -called _a plain_, as compared with the rugged country that encompasses -it on all sides; and his position would naturally have been taken up -along the edge of the last ramification of the ridge of Monda, which -extends about two miles from west to east along the right bank of the -river Seco. - -The town would then have been half a mile or so _in rear_ of the left -centre of Pompey's position; _a rivulet_, "_rendering the approach of -the mountain difficult_," would have run along its front. His cavalry -would naturally have been disposed on _both flanks_, where, the hills -terminating, it would be most at hand either to act offensively, or for -the security of the position; and the cavalry of Caesar, on the contrary, -would _all_ have been posted on _his_ left, where the access to Pompey's -position was easiest, and where, in case of his enemy's defeat, its -presence would have produced the most important results. - -We may readily conceive, also, that in times past _a morass_ bordered -the Seco where it first enters the plain, since several mountain streams -there join it, whose previously rapid currents must have experienced a -check on reaching this more level country. The industrious Moslems, -probably, by bringing this fertile plain into cultivation, drained the -morass so that no traces of it are now perceptible, but twenty years -hence there may possibly be another. - -Every condition required, therefore, to make the ground agree with the -description given of it by Hirtius, is here fulfilled; and, occupying -such a position, the army of Pompey seemed likely to obtain the ends -which we cannot but suppose its general had in view. - -The objections of Mr. Carter to modern Monda being the site of the Roman -city are, first, the want of space in its vicinity for two such vast -hosts to be drawn up in battle array; and, secondly, the little distance -of the existing town from the river Sigila and city of Cartama, which, -according to an ancient inscription, referring to the repairs of a road -from Munda to Cartama, he states was twenty miles. - -In consequence of these imaginary discrepancies, he suffered himself to -be persuaded that the spot where the apparitions are fighting "three -leagues to the westward of the modern town," is the site of the Roman -_Munda_. In which case it must have been situated in a _narrow valley_, -bounded on all sides by lofty mountains, and _twenty-eight_ Roman miles, -at least, from the city of Cartama! - -With respect to his first objections, however, it may be observed, that -the _want of space_ can only apply to the army posted on the mountain, -for, on the level country between its base and the village of Guaro, an -army of any amount might be drawn up. And as regards the mountain, as I -have already stated, its north front offers a strong position, nearly -two miles in extent, and one in depth. Now, considering the compact -order in which Roman armies were formed; the number of lines in which -they were in the habit of being drawn up; and making due allowance for -exaggeration[185] in the number of the contending hosts; such a space, I -should say, was more than sufficient for Pompey's army. - -In reply to the second objection urged by Mr. Carter, I may, in the -first place, observe, that the inscription whereon it is grounded-- - - * * * * * - - A MVNDA ET FLVVIO SIGILA - AD CERTIMAM VSQVE XX M.P.P.S. RESTITVIT.[186]-- - -seems to have no reference to the actual distance between Munda and -Cartama, since, by attaching any such meaning to it--coupled as Munda -is with the river Sigila--the inscription, to one acquainted with the -country, becomes quite unintelligible. - -Thus, if translated: "From Munda and the river Sigila, he (i. e. the -Emperor Hadrian) restored the twenty miles of road to Cartama," any one -would naturally conclude that Munda was upon the Sigila, and Cartama at -a distance of twenty miles from it; whereas, whatever may have been the -situation of Munda, Cartama certainly stood upon the very bank of the -river. - -It must, therefore, either have been intended to imply that the Emperor -restored twenty miles of a road which from Munda and the sources,[187] -or upper part of the course of the Sigila, led to Cartama, and various -traces of such a Roman road exist to this day on the road to Ronda by -Junquera; or, that the road from Munda was conducted along part of the -course of the Sigila ere it reached Cartama: and such, from the nature -of the ground, undoubtedly was the case, since Cartama stood at the -eastern foot of a steep mountain, the northern extremity of which must -(in military parlance) have been turned, to reach it from Monda, and the -road, in making this detour, would first reach the river Guadaljorce, or -Sigila. - -In this case it must be admitted that the _twenty miles_ refer to the -actual distance between the two towns, and this tends only more firmly -to establish modern Monda on the site of the Roman town, since the -distance from thence to Cartama, measured with _a pair of compasses_ on -a _correct_ map,[188] is fourteen English miles, which are equal to -fifteen Roman of seventy-five to a degree, or seventeen of eighty-three -and one third to a degree; and considering the hilly nature of the -country which the road must unavoidably have traversed, the distance -would have been fully increased to twenty miles, either by the ascents -and descents if carried in a straight line from place to place, or by -describing a very circuitous course if taken along the valley of the Rio -Seco. - -Carter further remarked upon the foregoing inscription that "it seems to -place" Munda to the _west_ of the river Sigila, which ran _between_ that -town and Cartama; but this, he said, does not agree with the situation -of modern Monda, which is on the same side the river as Cartama. - -I suppose for _west_ he meant to say _east_, but, in either case, his -assumed site for Munda, "three leagues to the west of the present town," -is open to this very same objection, and to the yet graver one, of -being--even allowing that he meant English leagues--_twenty-three -English miles_ in a _direct_ line from the town of Cartama, and in a -contracted and secluded valley, to the possession of which, no military -importance could possibly have been attached. - -On the whole, therefore, I see no reason to doubt what, for so many -years was looked upon as certain, viz., that the modern town of Monda is -on the site of the ancient city. I must nevertheless own that in -following strictly the text of Hirtius, an objection presents itself to -this spot with reference to the relative position of Ursao; that is, if -Osuna be Ursao; since, in allusion to Pompey's resolve to receive battle -at Munda, he says that Ursao "served as a sure resource _behind_ -him."[189] - -This objection holds equally good with the position Carter assigns to -Munda; but that there is some error respecting Ursao is evident, for, if -Osuna be Ursao, then Hirtius described it most incorrectly by saying it -was exceedingly strong by nature, and eight miles distant from any -rivulet.[190] And, on the other hand, it is clear that Ursao did _not_ -serve as a _sure_ resource to Pompey, since no part of his defeated army -found refuge there. - -We must read this passage, therefore, as implying rather that Pompey -_calculated_ on Orsao as a place of refuge, but that, by the able -manoeuvres of his adversary, he was cut off from it. Now a town -placed high up in the mountains like Alozaina, or Junquera, and like -them distant from any stream but that which rises within their walls, -answers the description of Orsao, much better than Osuna;[191] and, -supposing one of these, or any other town in the vicinity, similarly -situated, to have been Orsao, Pompey might have flattered himself that -he could fall back upon it in the event of being defeated at Monda. -Caesar, however, by moving along the valley of the Seco, and, taking post -in the plain to the north of Pompey's position, effectually deprived him -of this resource. - -The modern town of Monda contains numerous fragments of monuments, -inscriptions, &c., which, though none of them actually prove it to be on -the site of the ancient place of the same name, satisfactorily shew that -it stands near some old Roman town, and that, therefore, to call it -_new_ Monda, in contradistinction to _Monda la vieja_, is absurd. - -The road to Coin traverses a succession of tongues, which, protruding -from the side of the steep Sierra de Monda on the right, fall gradually -towards the Rio Seco, which flows about a mile off on the left. For the -first three miles the undulations are very gentle, and the face of the -country is covered with corn, but, on arriving at the Peyrela, a rapid -stream that rushes down from the mountains in a deep rocky gully, the -ground becomes much more broken, and the hills on both sides are thickly -wooded. The road, nevertheless, continues very good, and in about two -miles more reaches Coin. - -The approach to this town is very beautiful. It is situated some way up -the northern acclivity of a high wooded hill, and commands a splendid -view of the valley of the Guadaljorce. - -Coin is supposed to be of Moorish origin, and, from the amenity of its -situation, abundance of crystal springs and fruitfulness of its -orchards, was, no doubt, a favourite place of retreat with the turbaned -conquerors of Spain. Nor are its merits altogether lost upon the present -less contemplative race of inhabitants, for they flee to its pure -atmosphere whenever any endemic disease frightens them from the close -and crowded streets of filthy Malaga. - -During the last few years that the divided Moslems yet endeavoured to -struggle against the fate that too clearly awaited them, the fields of -Coin were doomed to repeated devastations, though the city itself still -set the Christian hosts at defiance; but at length the artillery of -Ferdinand and Isabella reduced it to submission, A.D. 1485. - -The population of Coin is estimated by the Spanish authorities at 9000 -souls, but I should say it is considerably less. The houses are good, -streets well paved, and the place altogether is clean and wholesome. - -The posada, except in outward appearance, is not in keeping with the -town. It is a large white-washed building, with great pretensions and -small comfort. We left it at daybreak without the least regret, carrying -our breakfast with us to enjoy _al fresco_. - -At the foot of the hill two roads to Malaga offer themselves, one by way -of Cartama (distant ten miles), which turns the Sierra Gibalgalia to the -north, the other by Alhaurin, which crosses the neck of land connecting -that mountain with the more lofty sierras to the south. The distance is -pretty nearly the same by both, and is reckoned five leagues, but the -_leguas_ are any thing but _regulares_, and may be taken at an average -of four miles and a half each. The first named is a carriage road, and -the country flat nearly all the way; we therefore chose the latter, as -likely to be more picturesque. - -In about an hour from Coin, we reached a clear stream, which, confined -in a deep gulley, singularly scooped out of the solid rock, winds round -at the back of Alhaurin, and tumbles over a precipice on the side of the -impending mountain. The crystal clearness of the water and beauty of -the spot, tempted us to halt and spread the contents of our alforjas on -the green bank of the rivulet, though the white houses of Alhaurin, -situated immediately above, peeped out from amidst trelissed vines and -perfumed orange groves, seeming to beckon us on. But appearances are -proverbially deceitful all over the world, and more especially in -Spanish towns, as we had recently experienced at Coin. - -Our repast finished, we remounted our horses, and ascended the steep -acclivity, on the lap of which the town stands. The environs are -beautifully wooded, and the place contains many tasteful houses and -gardens, wide, clean, and well-paved streets, abundance of refreshing -fountains, and groves of orange and other fruit trees, and, in fact, is -a most delightful place of abode. The view from it is yet finer than -from Coin, embracing, besides the fine chain of wooded sierras above -Alozaina and Casarabonela, the lower portion of the vale of Malaga, and -the splendid mountains that stretch into the Mediterranean beyond that -city. Nevertheless, in spite of these advantages, the scared -_Malaguenos_ consider Coin a more secure retreat from the dreaded yellow -fever than Alhaurin, perhaps because from the former even the view of -their abandoned city is intercepted. - -Alhaurin contains, probably, 5000 inhabitants. The road from thence to -Malaga is _carriageable_ throughout. It winds along the side of the -mountain, continuing nearly on a dead level from the town to the summit -of the pass that connects the Sierra Gibalgalia with the mountains of -Mijas; thence it descends gradually, by a long and rather confined -ravine, into the vale of Malaga. - -Arrived in the plain, it leaves the little village of Alhaurinejo about -half a mile off on the right, and at thirteen miles from Alhaurin -reaches a bridge over the Guadaljorce. This bridge, commenced on a -magnificent scale by one of the bishops of Malaga, was to have been -built entirely of stone; but, before the work was half completed, either -the worthy dignitary of the church came to the last of his days, or to -the bottom of his purse, and it is left to be completed, "_con el -tiempo_"--a very celebrated Spanish bridge-maker. - -Forty-four solid stone piers remain, however, to bear witness to the -good and liberal intentions of the bishop; and the weight of a rotten -wooden platform, which has since been laid down, to afford a passage -across the stream when swollen by the winter torrents, for at most other -times it is fordable. - -A road to the Retiro and Churriana continues down the right bank of the -river; but that to Malaga crosses the bridge, and on gaining the left -bank of the river is joined by the roads from Casarabonda and Cartama. -From hence to Malaga is about five miles. - -On arriving at Malaga we found the dread of cholera had attained such a -height during our short absence, that the _Xebeque_, for Ceuta, had -sailed, whilst clean bills of health were yet issued. We also thought it -advisable to save our passports from being tainted, and, without further -loss of time, departed for Gibraltar by land. Our haste, however, booted -us but little; for, amongst the absurdities of quarantine be it -recorded, on reaching the British fortress, on the morning of the third -day from Malaga, admittance was refused, until we had undergone a three -days' purification at San Roque. Thither we repaired, therefore; and -there we remained during the prescribed period, shaking hands daily with -our friends from the garrison, until the dreaded _virus_ was supposed to -have parted with all its infectious properties. Our _decorated_ -attendant had left us on reaching Malaga, promising to take the earliest -opportunity of acquainting us with the result of an ordeal, to which the -little blind God, in one of his most capricious moods, had been pleased -to subject two of his votaries. - -The circumstances attending this trial of _true love_, will be found -related in the following chapter, which contains also a sketch of the -previous history of the hero of the tale, the knight of San Fernando. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -THE KNIGHT OF SAN FERNANDO. - - -_Don Fernando Septimo, por la gracia de Dios, rey de Castilla, de Leon, -de Aragon, de las dos Sicilias, de Jerusalem, de Navarra, de Granada, de -Toledo, de Valencia, de Galicia, de Mallorca, de Sevilla, de Cerdena, de -Cordoba, de Corcega, de Murcia, de Jaen, de los Algarbes, de Algeciras, -de Gibraltar, de las islas de Canaria, de las Indias Orientales y -Occidentales, islas y tierra ferme del Mar Oceano; archiduque de -Austria; duque de Borgona, de Brabante y de Milan; conde de Absparg, -Flandes, Tirol y Barcelona; senor de Viscaya y de Molina,[192] &c._ - -Such was the heading of the document which conferred the honour of -knighthood (silver cross of the first class of the royal and military -order of St. Ferdinand), upon _Don_ Antonio Conde, a soldier of the -light company (cazadores) of the Queen's, or second regiment of the -line, in acknowledgment of his distinguished services against the -_revolutionarios_ of the _isla de Leon_, who surrendered at Bejer on the -8th March, 1831. - -The bearer of this _certificate_ of gallant conduct--for the -gratification that its possession afforded his vanity was the only sense -in which it could be considered a _reward_--was in person rather below -the usual stature of the Andalusian peasantry; but his square shoulders, -open chest, and muscular limbs, bespoke him to be possessed of more than -their wonted strength and activity. - -In other respects too he differed somewhat from his countrymen, his hair -being light, even lighter than what they call _castanos_, or chestnut, -his chin beardless, and his eyes hazel. His manners were those of a -frank young soldier, rather, perhaps, of the French school, with a dash -of the _beau garcon_ about him, but, on the whole, very prepossessing. -In his carriage to us, though rather inquisitive, he was at all times -respectful; but towards his fellow countrymen, not of _the cloth_, a -certain hauteur was observable in his deportment, which clearly showed -that he prided himself on the "_Don_." - -The document, encased with the brevet of knighthood, of which mention -has before been made, briefly, but in very honourable terms, described -the gallant conduct of the young soldier, and forms the groundwork of -the following _memoir_; a circumstance I feel called upon to mention, -lest my hero should be wrongfully accused of vain-gloriously boasting of -his achievements; and this also will explain why his story is not, -throughout, told in the first person. - -The secluded little village of Guarda, which has been noticed in the -course of my peregrinations, as lying to the right of the high road from -Jaen to Granada (about five miles from the former city), was the -birth-place of Antonio Conde. His parents, though in a humble station of -life, were of _sangre limpio_;[193] and never having heard of Malthus, -had married early, and most unphilosophically added a family of seven -human beings to the already overstocked population of this -wisdom-getting world. - -Five of these unfortunate mortals were daughters, and our hero was the -younger of the two masculine lumps of animated clay. His brother, who -was many years his senior, had joined the army at an early age, and at -the conclusion of the war had proceeded with his regiment to the -Habana, where he still remained; their parents, therefore, now declining -in years, were anxious to keep their remaining son at home, to assist in -supporting the family. Such, however, was not to be the case, for, on -the _quintos_ being called out in 1830, it fell to Antonio's lot to be -one of the quota furnished by the district that included his native -village. - -To purchase a substitute was out of the question--the price was quite -beyond his parents' means; and though his brother had, at various times, -transmitted money home, which, with praiseworthy foresight, had been -hoarded up to make some little provision for his sisters, but was now -urgently offered to buy him off, yet Antonio would not listen to its -being so applied. To confess the truth, indeed, he secretly rejoiced at -his lot, having always wished to be a soldier, though he could never -bring himself voluntarily to quit his aged parents. Now, he maintained, -there was no alternative; and accordingly, with the brilliant prospect -of making a fortune, which the military life opened to him, he marched -from his native village, and joined the Queen's regiment, then quartered -at Seville, to the cazador company of which he was shortly afterwards -posted. - -Antonio's zeal, and assiduous attention to his duties, as well as his -general good conduct and intelligence, made him a great favourite with -his officers; whilst his youth, good humour, and gay disposition, -endeared him equally to his comrades, in whose amusements he generally -took the lead. In fact, he soon became the pattern man of the pattern -company, and attained the rank of corporal. - -Early in the month of March, 1831, the Queen's regiment received orders -to proceed by forced marches to Cadiz, where the _soi-disant_ -"liberals," having again raised the standard of revolt, commenced the -work of regeneration by murdering the governor of the city in the -streets at noon day. The cold-blooded, calculating miscreants, who -committed this act, excused themselves for the premeditated murder of a -man _universally_ beloved and respected, by saying it was necessary for -the success of their plans to commence with a blow that should strike -terror into the hearts of their opponents. They killed, therefore, the -most virtuous man they could select, to show that no one would be spared -who thenceforth ventured to entertain a doubt, that the constitution -they upheld was the _beau ideal_ of liberal government; and, I regret to -say, Englishmen were found who applauded this atrocious doctrine, and -considered the subsequent punishment inflicted on Torrijos, and the -other abettors and instigators of this barbarity, as an act of -unprecedented cruelty on the part of the "tyrant Ferdinand" and his -"_servile_" ministers. - -Antonio's regiment proceeded to the scene of revolt by way of Utrera and -Xeres, and on reaching Puerto Santa Maria received orders to continue -its march round the head of the bay of Cadiz, and occupy, without delay, -the Puente Zuazo, with the view of confining the rebels to the isla de -Leon, their attempt to gain possession of Cadiz having failed, through -the loyalty and firmness of the troops composing its garrison. - -The rebels, however, effected their escape, ere the Queen's regiment -reached its destined position, and had marched to Chiclana, in the hope -of being there joined by another band of "_facciosos_," under an -ex-officer, named Torrijos; which, long collected in the bay, and -protected by the guns of Gibraltar, was to have effected a landing on -the coast to the westward of Tarifa, and marched thence to support the -ruffians of the isla. - -The royal troops were instantly sent in pursuit of the rebels, who, -abandoning Chiclana, fell back successively upon Conil and Vejer. The -strength of the position of this latter town induced them to make a -stand, and await the momentarily expected reinforcement under Torrijos; -and the King's troops having assembled in considerable force at the foot -of the mountain, determined on attempting to dislodge them from the -formidable post, ere they received this accession of strength; a sharp -conflict was the consequence, which terminated in the royalists being -repulsed with severe loss. - -Antonio, who was well acquainted with the ground, now respectfully -hinted to the captain of his company, that the retreat of the rebels -might be effectually cut off by taking possession of the bridge over the -Barbate, which--all the boats on the river having been destroyed--alone -offered the rebels the means of reaching Tarifa, or Torrijos that of -coming to the assistance of the blockaded town. - -The captain communicated our hero's plans to the commander of the -expedition, who immediately adopted it, wisely abstaining from wasting -further blood to obtain a result by force, which starvation, sooner or -later, would be sure to bring about. - -In pursuance, therefore, of Antonio's project, the Queen's regiment -received orders to take possession of the bridge, and the _cazador_ -company was pushed on with all speed, to facilitate the execution of -this rather difficult operation. - -The bridge, as I have described in a former chapter, is situated -immediately under the lofty precipitous cliff whereon the town of Vejer -is perched, and the road to it is conducted, for nearly half a mile, -along a narrow strip of level ground, between the bank of the Barbate -and the foot of the precipice. - -In their advance, therefore, the _cazadores_ were exposed to a most -destructive shower of bullets, stones, &c. from above, and, of the whole -company, only Corporal Conde, and seven of his comrades, made good their -way, and threw themselves into the venta; which stands on the right bank -of the stream, close to the bridge. They instantly opened a fire from -the windows of the inn upon the rebels in the town overhead, who, at -first, returned it with interest; but after some time Antonio was -beginning to flatter himself, from the slackening of their fusillade, -that he was making their post too hot for them, when, looking round, he -perceived the whole force of the _facciosos_ descending from the town in -one long column, by the road which winds down to the bridge, round the -eastern face of the mountain, their intention evidently being to force a -passage _a todo precio_.[194] - -Antonio's comrades were daunted; they had no officer with them; there -was no appearance of support being at hand; and the odds against them -were fearful. Prudence suggested, therefore, that they should shut -themselves up in the venta, and let the enemy pass. - -Our hero, however, saw how much depended on the decision of that moment. -If the rebels succeeded in crossing the bridge, nothing could prevent -their forming a junction with the band of Torrijos, and in that case the -country might, for many months, be subjected to their outrages and -rapine, and Gibraltar would afford them a sure retreat; he determined, -therefore, to make an effort to intimidate them, and knowing the weight -his example would have upon his comrades, rushed out of the venta, -calling upon them to follow; and taking post behind some old walls, that -formed, as it were, a kind of _tete de pont_, opened a brisk fire upon -the advancing column of the enemy. - -The boldness of the manoeuvre intimidated the rebels, who, thinking -that this handful of men must be supported by a considerable force, -hesitated, halted for further orders, and, finally, threw out a line of -skirmishers to cover their movements, between whom and Antonio's party a -sharp fire was kept up for several minutes. - -In this skirmish one of Antonio's companions was killed, another fell -badly wounded by his side, and he himself received a wound in his head, -which, but that the ball had previously passed through the top of his -chako, would, probably, have been fatal. - -The rebels, discovering at length that the small force opposed to them -was altogether without support, again formed in column of attack to -force the bridge. The word "forward" was given, and Antonio feared that -his devotion would prove of no avail, when, at the critical moment, the -remainder of his company advanced from behind the venta at the _pas de -charge_, rending the air with loud cries of "_Viva el Rey_," and opening -a fire which took the enemy in flank. - -The rebels saw that the golden opportunity had been missed, and, seized -with a panic, retired hastily to their stronghold, closely pressed by -the _cazadores_, who hoped to enter the town pele mele with them. - -The commander of the king's troops, who had galloped to the spot where -he heard firing, determined, however, to adhere to the plan of reducing -the rebels to starvation; which now, by Antonio's gallantry, he was -certain of eventually effecting; and ordered, therefore, the recall to -be sounded as soon as he saw the enemy had regained the town. -Unfortunately for our hero, who, attended by a single comrade, was at -the extreme left of the extended line of skirmishers, and had taken -advantage of one of the deep gullies that furrow the side of the -mountain to advance unobserved on the enemy; he neither heard the signal -to retire, nor saw his companions fall back; continuing, therefore, to -advance, it was only on gaining the head of the ravine that he suddenly -became aware of the extreme peril of their situation, and that a quick -retreat alone could save them. It was, however, too late; his -comrade--his bosom friend, Gaspar Herrera--fell, apparently dead, a -dozen paces from him, and he, himself, in the act of raising up his -brave companion, was brought to the ground by a ball, which splintered -his ankle-bone. He managed, with great difficulty, to crawl to some -palmeta bushes, having first sheltered the body of his friend behind the -stem of a stunted olive tree, which would not afford cover for both; -and, lying flat on the ground, waited for some time in the hope that his -company had merely moved round to the left to gain a more accessible -part of the mountain, and would speedily renew the attack. - -At length, his patience becoming exhausted, he thought it would be well -to let his comrades know where he was, and once more levelling his -musket, resumed the offensive by attacking a pig, which, unconscious of -danger, came grunting with carniverous purpose towards that part of the -gory field where the body of his friend Gaspar lay extended. This drew a -heavy fire upon Antonio, but, as he was much below the rebels, who had -all retired into the town, and was tolerably well sheltered by the -friendly palmetas, he escaped further damage. - -In the meanwhile, Antonio and Gaspar had had been reported as killed to -the captain of the _cazadores_, who, whilst deploring with the other -officers the loss of the two most promising young men of his company, -heard the renewed firing in the direction of the late skirmish. -"_Corajo!_" he exclaimed, "that must be Conde and Herrera still at it." -"No, Senor," replied the serjeant, "they were both seen to fall as we -retreated from the hill; that firing must be an attack upon our friends -posted on the other side of the town; the rebels are probably attempting -to force a passage in that direction." "Well then, I cannot do wrong in -advancing," said the captain, "so let us on. Nevertheless, I still think -it is the fire of Conde and his comrade, and I know, my brave fellows," -he continued, addressing his men, "I know that if it be possible to -bring them off, you will do it." - -They advanced, accordingly, in the direction of the firing, and, as the -captain had conjectured, there they found Conde continuing the combat _a -l'outrance_, extended full length upon the ground under cover of the -palmeta bushes, with his head and ankle bandaged, and his ammunition -nearly exhausted. They fortunately succeeded in bearing him off without -sustaining any loss, though Conde insisted on their first removing the -seemingly lifeless body of his friend Gaspar, which he pointed out to -them. - -The detachment at the venta had now been reinforced by some cavalry and -artillery, and the remainder of the Queen's regiment, whilst the rest -of the Royalist force took post on the opposite side of the town, in a -position that covered the roads to Chiclana, Medina, Sidonia, and Alcala -de los Gazules, thereby depriving the beleaguered rebels of all chance -of escape. - -Towards dusk that same evening, one of Torrijos's troopers was brought -in a prisoner. Unconscious of the state of affairs, he had mistaken a -cavalry piquet of the king's troops for the advanced guard of the -_facciosos_, and had not even discovered his error in time to destroy -the despatches of which he was the bearer. By these it was learnt that -Torrijos, apprized of the failure on Cadiz and subsequent escape of the -rebel-band from the Isla de Leon, had not budged from the spot where he -had effected his landing; but he now sent to acquaint his coadjutors -that he had collected a sufficiency of boats to take them all off, and -that the bearer would be their guide to the place of embarkation. - -This information was forwarded to the rebels at Vejer, who, not giving -credit to it, continued to hold out until the third day, when their -provisions being exhausted and no Torrijos appearing, they agreed to -capitulate, and were marched prisoners to the Isla, where, but a few -days before, "_Quantam est in rebus inane!_" they had styled themselves -the liberators of Spain. - -The queen's regiment was now marched in all haste towards Tarifa, in the -hope of surprising and capturing Torrijos and his band, ere the news of -what had passed at Vejer could reach him, but he had taken the alarm at -the prolonged absence of his messenger, and, re-embarking his doughty -heroes, regained the anchorage of Gibraltar without having fired a shot -to assist their friends. The regiment, therefore, proceeded to -Algeciras, and from thence marched to San Roque, where it remained -stationary for several months. - -Here Antonio rejoined it, accompanied by his friend Herrera, who, thanks -to the timely surgical aid his comrade had been the means of procuring -him, yet lived to evince his gratitude to his preserver. Here, also, our -hero received the distinction which his gallant conduct had so well -earned, as well as the grant of a--to-this-day-unpaid--pension of a real -per diem. Promotion, too, was offered, but he chose rather to wait for a -vacancy in his own regiment than to receive immediate rank in any other. - -Our hero's military career was shortly, however, doomed to be brought to -a close. He had resumed his duty but a few days, when an order arrived -for the queen's regiment to proceed to Seville. The wound in Antonio's -ankle, though apparently quite healed, had been suffered to close over -the bullet that had inflicted it, and the first day's march produced -inflammation of so dangerous a character as to threaten, not only the -loss of his shattered limb, but even of life itself. - -In this deplorable state Antonio was left behind at Ximena, where, -fortunately, an aunt of Gaspar resided. The good Dame Felipa required -only to hear the young soldier's name--his noble act of friendship -having long made it familiar to her ear--to receive him as her son. -"Never can I forget her kindness," said Antonio; "my own mother could -not have tended me with more unremitted attention, and--under the -Almighty--I feel that my recovery is entirely their work." Here an -"_Ay!_" drawn seemingly from the innermost recess of his heart, escaped -from the young soldier's lips, which, appearing quite out of keeping -with the terms in which he spoke of Dame Felipa's _maternal_ solicitude, -induced me, after a moment's pause, to ask, "But who are _they_, -Antonio?" - -"The aunt and sister of Gaspar," he replied, with some little confusion. - -"And you find the wounds of Cupid more incurable than those of Bellona?" -said I, jestingly--"_Vamos_, Don Antonio! As Sancho says, '_Gusto mucho -destas cosas de amores_,'[195] so let us have the sequel of your story -by all means." - -"I shall not be very long in relating it," continued our hero. "For -three months I remained the guest of Dona Felipa. A fever, produced by -my intense sufferings, rendered me for many days quite insensible to the -extraordinary kindness of which I was the object; at length it was -subdued, leaving me, however, so reduced, that for weeks I could not -quit my couch. Indeed, the most perfect repose was ordered on account of -my wound, the cure of which was rendered far more tedious and -troublesome from former mismanagement. During this long period, the -sister of my friend Gaspar was my constant attendant. She read to me, -sang to me, or touched the guitar to break--what she imagined must -be--the wearisome monotony of my confinement. I have even, when -consciousness first returned, on the abatement of the fever, heard her, -thinking I was sleeping, _pray_ for the recovery of her brother's -preserver. - -"It was impossible to be thus the object of Manuela's tender solicitude, -without being impressed with the most ardent love and admiration for one -so pure, so engaging, and so beauteous! Had she indeed been less lovely -and captivating, had she even been absolutely plain, still her assiduous -and disinterested attention could not but have called forth my warmest -gratitude and regard; but I trust you will one day see Manuela, and -then be able to judge if I could resist becoming the captive of such -_enganchamientos_[196] as she possesses. - -"Vainly I endeavoured to stifle the rising passion at its birth. Alas! -the greater my efforts were to eradicate it, the deeper it took root in -my heart. I hoped, nevertheless, to have sufficient self-control to -conceal my passion from the eyes of all, even of her who had called it -into existence, for gratitude and honour equally forbade my endeavouring -to engage the affections of one whose family, placed in a walk of life -far above mine--that is in point of _wealth_, added the K. S. F. -somewhat proudly--I had little right to hope, would consider a poor -soldier of fortune a suitable match for the daughter of the rich Don -Fadrique Herrara. Nor did I know, indeed, how Manuela herself would -receive my addresses, for I scarcely ventured to attribute the soft -glances of her love-inspiring eyes to any other feeling than that of -compassion for the sufferings of her brother's friend. - -"The day of separation came, however, and the veil which had so long -concealed our mutual feelings was gently and unpremeditatedly drawn -aside. Manuela's father and her brother Gaspar came to Ximena to pass a -few days with Dona Felipa, and finding that, though still a prisoner to -my room, I was now declared to be out of all danger, Don Fadrique -announced his intention of taking his daughter home with him--her visit -having already been prolonged far beyond the time originally fixed, in -consequence of my illness, and the fatigue which, unassisted, the -attendance upon me would have imposed on her aunt. - -"When the dreaded hour of departure arrived, my lovely nurse came to the -side of my couch, to bid her last farewell. A tear stood in her bright -eye; the silvery tones of her voice faltered; her hand trembled as she -placed it in mine, and a blush suffused her cheeks as I pressed it to my -lips. But that soft hand was not withdrawn until her own lips had -confessed her love, and had sealed the unsolicited promise, never to -bestow that hand upon another! - -"The difficulty now was to make known our mutual attachment to her -father, who I dreaded would think but ill of me, for the return thus -made for all the kindness of his family. My pride pinched me, also, lest -allusion should be made to my poverty, for, though poor, the blood of -the Conde's is pure as any in the Serrania. - -"I had but little time for consideration, for Don Fadrique was about to -mount his horse, and I thought the best channel of communication would -be my friend Gaspar. He listened attentively to my tale, which was not -told without much embarrassment, and then, to my confusion, burst into -a loud laugh. - -"'Pretty _news_, truly, _amigo_ Antonio,' he at length exclaimed. '_My_ -eyes, however, have not been so exclusively occupied with one object for -this week past--like your's and my sister's--as to render the -communication of this wonderful secret at all necessary. But be of good -cheer; I have seen how the matter stood, and, on the part of my sister, -encouraged it; and I hope to be able to overcome all difficulties, so -leave the affair in my hands:--on our way homewards I will talk the -matter over with my father, and you shall hear the result shortly.' - -"Nor did he disappoint me. In a few days a letter came from Gaspar: the -result of his interference exceeded my expectations: Don Fadrique had -received his communication very calmly, and told him that before -returning any definite answer, he should take time to fathom Manuela's -feelings. - -"Not long after this, I received a letter, of a less satisfactory kind, -however, from Don Fadrique himself. It simply stated that he could not -at present give his consent to his daughter's accepting me; that he had -no objections to urge on the score of my rank in life, or the way in -which I had acted in the matter, but that his daughter's expectations -entitled him to look for a wealthier son-in-law, and that, in fact, it -had long been a favorite plan of his, to unite her to the son of an old -and intimate friend, when they should be of a proper age. - -"Nevertheless--his letter concluded--provided I would abstain from -seeing, writing to, or holding _in any way_ communication with his -daughter for the space of two years, he would, at the expiration of that -period, consent to our union, should we both continue to wish it. - -"This chilling letter was accompanied by a hastily written billet from -Manuela. It was as follows:--'I know my father's conditions--accept -them, and have full confidence in the constancy of your Manuela.' - -"I accordingly wrote to Don Fadrique, subscribing to the terms he -proposed, and, from that day to this, have neither seen nor communicated -with either Manuela or any member of her family." - -"But have you not heard from time to time of the welfare of your -Manuela?" I asked; "are you sure she is yet unmarried?" For it struck me -that the young son of "an old and intimate friend" was a dangerous -person to have paying court to one's mistress during a two years' -absence; especially in Spain, where _love matches_ are rather scouted. A -story that one of Manuela's countrywomen related to me of herself, -recurring to me at the same time. - -This lady had, early in life, formed an attachment to a young officer, -whom poverty alone prevented her marrying. His regiment was ordered to -Ceuta, and she remained at Malaga, consoling herself with the hope that -brighter days would dawn upon them. Her friends laughed at the idea of -such interminable constancy, especially as a most advantageous _parti_ -presented itself for her acceptance. The proposer--it is true--was -neither so handsome nor so youthful as the exile, but then he was also -an officer, and "_in very good circumstances_." She could not forget her -first love, however--indeed, she _never_ could--and long turned a deaf -ear to the tender whisperings of her new admirer; but, at length, her -relations became urgent, as well as her lover; the mail boat from Ceuta -gradually came to be looked for with less impatience; and, "_por fin_," -she observed, "_como era Capitan por Capitan (!!)_,[197] I had no great -objections to urge, and we were married!" - -She confessed to me, however, that this exchange was not effected -"_without paying the difference_," as the treatment she experienced from -her rich husband, caused her ever after to regret having given up her -poor lover. - -But to return to Antonio--"I have had but few opportunities of hearing -from Manuela," he replied, "for my native village is removed from any -high road, and the close attendance required by my aged parents--my -wound having incapacitated me from further military service--has been -such, that I seldom could get as far as Jaen to make enquiries amongst -the _contrabandistas_ and others who visit the neighbourhood, of her -place of residence; but about a month since I met an _arriero_ of Arcos, -who knew Don Fadrique well, and from him I learnt that Manuela is still -unmarried, has lost all her beauty, is wasted to a shadow; and said to -be suffering from some disease that baffles the skill of the most -eminent physicians of the place. - -"This intelligence has made me the more anxious to see her, and claim -her promised hand, for no change in her personal appearance--even if the -account be true--can alter the sentiments I entertain for her; but, at -the same time, it has placed a weight upon my spirits which in vain I -endeavour to throw off. - -"The morning it was my good fortune to fall in with you, Caballeros, I -had set out from my home to proceed to Ximena, whither I understand -Manuela has been removed for change of air. For the term of my -probation, though not yet expired, is fast drawing to a close, and -having some business to transact with the military authorities at -Granada and Malaga respecting my pension (of which not a _maravedi_ has -ever been paid), I have timed my movements so as to reach Ximena by the -day on which I may again present myself to Manuela, and receive, I -trust, the reward of my constancy." - -Antonio's narrative was here brought to a conclusion, but ere he left -us, I exacted the promise mentioned in the preceding chapter, that he -would acquaint us with the result of Don Fadrique's essay in -experimental philosophy. Circumstances, however, occurred to prevent our -meeting him at the place of appointment, and I had almost given up the -hope of hearing more of Antonio and his love story, when, to my -surprise, he one morning presented himself at my breakfast table at San -Roque. - -I saw, at the first glance, that the course of true love had not run -smooth--he was pale and hagged--flurried, yet dispirited. "My good -Antonio," said I, unwilling to give utterance to a doubt of his fair -one's constancy, "I fear Don Fadrique has not proved to be a man of his -word." - -"_Perdon usted_," he replied--"he has been faithful to his word"--worse -and worse, thought I--"And Manuela not less constant in her affection," -he continued; guessing at once the suspicion that flitted across my -mind--"Alas! I could even wish it were not so, if all otherwise were -well; but fate has ordered differently. A calamity has befallen Manuela; -compared to which, death would be a mercy. She is in a state that is -heart-rending to behold. Her sufferings are almost beyond the power of -bearing. Oh, Caballero! it is fearful--it is awful to see her. She has -the best advice that money can procure, but nothing can be done to give -us a hope of her recovery." - -"Mad?" I exclaimed, with a shudder--"Oh, cursed love of riches...." - -"_Nada, nada_,"[198] interrupted Antonio, "she is as sensible as ever. -Alas! I could even bear to see her insane, for then I might hope that -time would effect a change." - -"Is it _Etica_?" I asked, knowing that the Spaniards consider -consumption both incurable and highly infectious. - -A mournful shake of the head was his reply. - -"What then, my good Antonio, _is_ the nature of her malady?" - -"_Ojala_[199] that it could be called a malady, Don Carlos," ejaculated -the silver cross of San Fernando; "it might not then be beyond the reach -of the physician's art. But _Dios de mi vida!_ there is no hope for her, -unless a miracle can be wrought. It is to have a consultation on that -point, I am come to San Roque." - -"What," said I, my patience thoroughly exhausted, "has she embraced -Mohammedanism?" - -"Not far from it, Don Carlos--she is possessed of a devil!" - -"Friend Antonio," said I, "congratulate yourself;--such discoveries are -seldom made _before_ marriage. Let me, however, persuade you, instead of -consulting with priests, to allow an heretical English doctor to meet -this devil face to face; his simple nostrums may perchance be found more -efficacious than the exorcisms of the most pious divines. But explain to -me the signs and symptoms of the presence of this imp of darkness; and -pardon my making light of so serious an affair, for, rest assured, the -evil one is not now permitted to torment the human frame with bodily -anguish; his toils are spread for catching _souls_; and worldly -pleasures, not personal sufferings, are the means he employs to effect -his purpose." - -Antonio then entered into a detailed account of his betrothed's ailment, -as well as of the mode of treatment that had been adopted; but, -ignorant, superstitious, and bigoted, as I knew the campestral Spanish -_faculty_ to be, I had yet to learn how far they could practise on the -credulity of their infatuated _patients_. - -Manuela, it appeared, had, one day during the preceding Lent, been so -imprudent as to taste some chicken broth that had been prepared for her -sick father; and it was supposed, that the devil, assuming the -appearance of the egg of some insect, had gained admission to her throat -and settled in her breast, where he had ever since been nurtured and -was gradually "_comiendo su vida_!"[200] - -The Doctors assured her friends that the only way of appeasing the -monster's appetite, was by the constant application of thick slices of -raw beef to the exterior of the part affected--but this remedy was daily -losing its effect. - -My astonishment knew no bounds.--Was it possible such gross ignorance -could exist, or such horrible imposition be practised in the nineteenth -century! - -After much persuasion, Antonio promised to bring his betrothed to San -Roque, to have the advice of an English doctor; my proposal of taking -one to see her, at Ximena, having at once been negatived on the grounds -that it would cause great irritation amongst the people of that town; -and, accordingly, on the day appointed for the meeting, Manuela, borne -on a kind of litter, and accompanied by her aunt, came to San Roque on -the pretence of its being her wish to offer a wax bust at the shrine of -one of the Emigre Saints of Gibraltar "now established in the city of -_San Roque de su Campo;_" which said saint, having taken a very active -part in expelling the Moors from Spain, it was naturally concluded might -feel an interest in driving the devil out of Manuela's breast. - -Antonio's mistress had evidently been a lovely creature. Her features -were beautifully outlined, but her white lips and bloodless cheeks, her -sunken eyes and wasted figure, declared the ravages making by some -terrible inward disease. She was suffering excessive pain from the -effects of the journey, but received us with a faint smile. - -"I fear, sir," she said, with some emotion, addressing herself to my -friend, Dr. ----, "I fear, sir, that I have given you unnecessary trouble -in coming to see me, for I am told that my disorder is beyond the reach -of medical skill; but my friend here," pointing to her lover, who, with -brimful eyes, stood watching alternately the pain-distorted countenance -of his mistress and that of the Doctor, hoping, if possible, to discover -his thoughts, "my friend here requested me so earnestly to come and meet -you, that, as we shall be so short a time together on this earth, I -could not, as far as concerned myself, refuse him so slight a favour, -and I hope you will pardon the inconvenience to which we have put you." - -Antonio and myself now withdrew, leaving Manuela and Dona Felipa with -Dr. ----, who, in a short time rejoined us, and, to Antonio's -inexpressible delight, informed him that the case of his betrothed was -not by any means hopeless, though she would have to submit to a painful -surgical operation, and then turning round to me, he added, "the poor -creature is suffering from a cancerous affection, which, fortunately, is -just in the state that I could most wish it to be. But no time must be -lost." - -The nature of the case having been fully explained to Antonio, it was -left to him to persuade Manuela to submit to the necessary operation, -and to inform her, that though it might be performed with safety _then_, -yet death must inevitably be the consequence of delay. - -The prejudices we were prepared to encounter were numerous, but they -were propounded chiefly by Manuela's aunt, she herself agreeing without -hesitation to every thing Antonio suggested. At length, however, the old -lady said a positive answer should be given after consulting with a -priest, and I forthwith accompanied Antonio to Don ---- ----, and -requested his attendance. - -Antonio was present at the consultation, and gave us an amusing account -of it. The main objection of the Dona Felipa was to the heretical hand -that was to direct the knife; but the worthy _Padre_--who had good -reason to know the superior skill of the English faculty over those of -his own country, and was himself _spelling_ for a little advice on the -score of an over-strained digestion--took the case up most zealously, -and eventually overcame all their scruples. - -"Fear not," said he, winding up his arguments, "Fear not, good dame, to -trust the maiden in his hands. Like as the Lord opened the mouth of -Balaam's ass to admonish her master, so has he put wisdom into the heads -of these heretical doctors for the good of us, his faithful servants. -Quiet your conscience, Senora Felipa, I myself have been physicked by -these semi-christian _Medicos_." - -The case was not much in point, but it served the purpose. Dona Felipa -was convinced; her niece submitted; the operation was successfully -performed; the colour in a short time returned to the cheeks of the -truly lovely and loveable Manuela; the smile of health once again -lighted up her intelligent countenance. And, ere I left the country, the -small share it had fallen to my lot to take in producing this happy -change, was gratefully acknowledged by the expressive, though downcast -glance that gleamed from Manuela's bright and joyous eyes, on my -addressing her as the bride of the knight of San Fernando. - -THE END. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - - _Itinerary of the principal Roads of Andalusia, and of the three - great Routes leading from that Province to the Cities of Madrid, - Lisbon, and Valencia._ - -N.B. The measurements on the Post Roads are given in Spanish leagues, -conformably with the Government Regulations by which Postmasters are -authorized to charge for their horses. On these, therefore, the -distances from stage to stage cannot be calculated with much precision; -but a Spanish _Post_ league may generally be reckoned 3-1/2[201] English -miles. On the other roads the distances are more accurately specified in -English miles. - - - No. 1. - BAYLEN TO MADRID. - (A Post Road, travelled by Diligences.) - - Leagues. - From Baylen to Guarroman 2 - thence to La Carolina 2 - Santa Elena 2 - La Venta de Cardenas 2 - Visillo 2 - Sta. Cruz de Mudela 2 - Val de Penas 2 - N. S. de la Consalacion 2 - Manzanares 2 - La Casa nueva del Rey 2-1/2 - Villaharta 2-1/2 - Vta. del Puerto Lapice 2 - Madridejos 3 - Cana de la higuera 2 - Tembleque 2 - Guardia 2 - Ocana 3-1/2 - Aranjuez 2 - Espartinas 2-1/2 - Los Angeles 3 - Madrid 2-1/2 - --- - Total leagues 47-1/2 - --- - 47-1/2 leagues = 164 English miles. - - - No. 2. - SEVILLE TO LISBON. - (Post road, travelled by Carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Seville to Santi Ponce 1 - thence to La Venta de Guillena 3 - Ronquillo 3 - Santa Olalla 4 - Monasterio 4 - Fuente de Cantos 3 - Los Santos de Maimona 4 - Santa Marta 5 - Albuera 3 - Badajos 4 - Elvas (Portugal) 3 - Lisbon 30 - -- - Total leagues 67 - -- - 67 leagues = 232 miles. - - - No. 3. - GRANADA TO VALENCIA. - (Post road, no Diligence.) - - Leagues. - From Granada to Diezma 6 - thence to Guadiz 3 - From Guadiz to Baza 7 - thence to Lorca 18 - Murcia 12 - Alicante 13 - San Felipe 9 - Valencia 14 - -- - Total leagues 82 - -- - -82 leagues=284 miles. - - -No. 4. - -CADIZ to MADRID. - -(Post road travelled by carriages.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to San Fernando 3 - thence to Puerto Sta. Maria 3 - Xeres de la Frontera 2-1/2 - de Casa Real del Cuervo 3-1/2 - Ventllo de la Torre de Orcas 3-1/2 - Utrera 3-1/2 - Alcala de Guadaira 3 - Mairena del Alcor 2 - Carmona 2 - da Venta de la Portugueza 2-1/2 - Luisiana 3-1/2 - Ecija 3 - La Carlota 4 - Cortijo de Mangonegro 3 - Cordoba 3 - Alcolea 2 - Carpio 3 - Aldea del Rio 3-1/2 - Andujar 3-1/2 - La Casa del Rey 2-1/2 - Baylen 2-1/2 - By No. 1, from Baylen to Madrid 47-1/2 - ---- - Total leagues 109-1/2 - ---- - -109-1/2 leagues=378 miles - - -No. 5. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE. - -(Post and carriage road.) - - Leagues. - From Cadiz to Alcala de Guadaira, - by Route No. 4 22 - Thence to Seville 2 - -- - Total leagues 24 - -24 leagues=83 miles. - - -No. 6. - -CADIZ to SEVILLE, by the MARISMA. - -(Direct road, passable for carriages in summer only.) - - Miles. - - From Cadiz, by boat, to El - Puerto de Santa Maria 5 - Thence to Xeres 9 - Lebrija 15 - Seville 28 - -- - Total miles 57 - -- - - -No. 7. - -CADIZ to LISBON. - -(Post road.) - - Leagues. - - From Cadiz to Seville, by No. 5. 24 - Seville to Lisbon, by No. 2. 67 - -- - Total leagues 91 - -- - -91 leagues = 315 miles. - - -No. 8. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Los Barrios 12 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 9 - La Venta de Tabilla 11 - La Venta de Vejer 14 - (Town of Vejer -1/2 a mile on left.) - Chiclana 16 - El Puente Zuazo 4-1/2 - Cadiz 9 - --- - Total miles 75-1/2 - --- - - -No. 9. - -GIBRALTAR to CADIZ. - -(Another bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Algeciras[202] 9 - Thence to La Venta de Ojen 10 - by No. 8 54-1/2 - ---- - Total miles 73-1/2 - ---- - - -No. 10. - -GIBRALTAR to XERES. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - Thence to La Venta la Gamez 4-1/2 - La Casa de Castanas 15 - Alcala de los Gazules 13 - (The town left -1/2 a mile to the right.) - Paterna 9 - Xeres 16 - --- - Total miles 63-1/2 - --- - - -No. 11. - -GIBRALTAR to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ximena 24 - thence to Ubrique 20 - El Broque 10 - Villa Martin 8 - Utrera 21 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - -- - Total miles 98 - -- - - -No 12. - -GIBRALTAR to LISBON. - -(Bridle road to Seville, from thence a carriage road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Seville, by - Route No. 11 98 - From Seville to Lisbon, by - Route No. 2 232 - --- - Total miles 330 - --- - - -No. 13. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -(A post, but only bridle road to Osuna, from thence a carriage route.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to San Roque 6 - thence to Gaucin 25 - Atajate 14 - Ronda 10 - From Ronda to Saucejo 21 - thence to Osuna 11 - Ecija 20 - By Route No. 4, from thence - to Baylen, 27 leagues = 93 - By Route No. 1, from Baylen - to Madrid, 47-1/2 leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 364 - --- - - -No. 14. - -GIBRALTAR to MADRID. - -BY BENEMEJI. - -(A bridle road only as far as Andujar.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Ronda, by - Route No. 13 55 - From Ronda to La Venta de - Teba 21 - (Town of Teba -1/2 mile on the right) - thence to Campillos 6 - Fuente de Piedra 9 - Benemeji 16 - Lucena 12 - Baena 18 - Porcuna 24 - Andujar 14 - Baylen 17 - By Route No. 1, to Madrid, - 47-1/2 leagues = 164 - --- - Total miles 356 - --- - - -No. 15. - -GIBRALTAR to MALAGA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Venta Guadiaro 12 - thence to Estepona 15 - Marbella 16 - Fuengirola 16 - Benalmedina 6 - Malaga 14 - -- - Total miles 79 - -- - - -No. 16. - -GIBRALTAR to GRANADA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Gibraltar to Malaga, by - Route No. 15 79 - From Malaga to Valez 18 - thence to La Venta de Alcaucin 12 - Alhama 12 - La Venta de Huelma 15 - La Mala 6 - Granada 9 - ---- - Total miles 151 - ---- - - -No. 17. - -GIBRALTAR to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Gibraltar to Granada, by - Route No. 16 151 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 435 - ---- - - -No. 18. - -MALAGA to SEVILLE. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - - From Malaga to Venta de Cartama 13-1/2 - (leaves town of Cartama 1 mile - on left.) - Venta de Cartama to Casarabonela 11-1/2 - (the ascent to this town may be - avoided, keeping it to the left) - Casarabonela to El Burgo 9 - thence to Ronda 11 - Zahara 15 - (Town half a mile off, on the left.) - thence to Puerto Serrano 7 - Coronil 10 - Utrera 8 - Dos Hermanos 8 - Seville 7 - ---- - Total miles 100 - ---- - - -No. 19. - -MALAGA to CORDOBA. - -(Practicable for Carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Venta de Galvez 153/4 - thence to Antequera 121/4 - Puente Don Gonzalo 27 - Rambla 16 - Cordoba 16 - --- - Total miles 87 - --- - - -No. 20. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(Post road, travelled by a Diligence.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to El Colmenar 17 - Thence to Venta de Alfarnate 10 - Loja 16 - Venta de Cacin 8 - Lachar 9 - Santa Fe 8 - Granada 8 - Venta de San Rafael 27 - Jaen 24 - Menjiber 14 - Baylen 10 - To Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 315 - ---- - - -No. 21. - -MALAGA to MADRID. - -(a more direct road, but in part only practicable for carriages.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Loja, by Route 43 - Thence to Montefrio 12 - Alcala la real 14 - Alcaudete 11 - Martos 12 - Arjona 17 - Andujar 7 - Baylen 17 - ---- - Madrid by Route No. 1 164 - - -No. 22. - -MALAGA to VALENCIA. - -(Bridle road.) - - Miles. - From Malaga to Granada, by - Route No. 16 72 - Thence to Valencia, by Route - No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 356 - ---- - - -No. 23. - -GRANADA to CORDOBA. - -(A wheel road as far as Alcala.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Pinos de la - Puerte 12 - thence to Alcala la Real 18 - Baena 24 - Castro el Rio 6 - Cordoba 24 - --- - Total miles 84 - --- - - -No. 24. - -GRANADA to MADRID. - -(Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Baylen, by - Route No. 20 75-1/2 - Thence to Madrid by Route - No. 1 164 - ----- - Total miles 239-1/2 - ----- - - -No. 25. - -GRANADA to SEVILLE. - -(Not a wheel road throughout.) - - Miles. - From Granada to Santa Fe 8 - thence to Lachar 8 - La Venta de Cacin 9 - Loja 8 - Archidona[203] 18 - Alameda 11 - Pedrera 12 - Osuna 11 - Marchena 14 - Maraina del Alcor 14 - Alcala del Guadiaro 7 - Seville 8 - ---- - Total miles 128 - ---- - - -No. 26. - -SEVILLE to MADRID. - -(Post and Diligence road.) - - Miles. - From Seville to Alcala de Guadaira 8 - Thence to Beylen, by Route - No. 4 138 - Baylen to Madrid, by Route - No. 1 164 - ---- - Total miles 310 - ---- - - -No. 27. - -SEVILLE to VALENCIA. - - Miles. - From Seville to Granada, by - Route No. 25 128 - From Granada to Valencia, by - Route No. 3 284 - ---- - Total miles 412 - ---- - - * * * * * - - _Just Published_, - - In 2 vols., 8vo. with Illustrations, - - CAPTAIN SCOTT'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND - CANDIA; - - With Details of the - - MILITARY POWER - - And Resources of those Countries, and Observations on the Government, - Policy, and Commercial System of MOHAMMED ALI. - -"One of the most sterling publications of the season. We have recently -had no small supply of information on Egypt, but there is a freshness in -Captain Scott's narrative that affords a new desire respecting the -events of this most interesting country. The narrative is throughout -light, and amusing; the habits and customs of the people are sketched -with considerable spirit and talent, and there is much novelty in the -gallant Author's details."--_Naval and Military Gazette._ - -"We do not recollect to have read a better book of travels than this, -since Slade's able publication on Turkey. The field of African and -Egyptian investigation has been variously trodden, but Captain Scott, -trusting to a shrewd observation and a sound understanding, has struck -out new lights and improved upon the information of others."--_United -Service Journal._ - - HENRY COLBURN, Publisher, 13, Great Marlborough Street. - - To be had of all Booksellers. - -_In a Few Days will be Published_, - -A TRAVELLING MAP OF PART OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN, - -INCLUDING THE GREATER PORTION OF THE KINGDOMS OF SEVILLE, CORDOBA, JAEN, -AND GRANADA. - -Compiled from the best Authorities, and Corrected from his own Notes and -Sketches, - -By CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, - -AUTHOR OF "EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA AND GRANADA, &c. &c. -&c." - -To be had of Mr. NEW, Mapseller and Publisher, No. 11, Strand, price -2_s._ 6_d._ - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] See the Posting Itinerary in the Appendix. - -[2] The post league has already been stated to contain 3 English miles, -and 807 yards. - -[3] Town-hall. - -[4] Lobster-hunting--such is the name for Locust in Spanish. - -[5] Or Genua urbanorum.--Pliny. - -[6] Hirt. Bel. Hist. Cap. LXI. - -[7] In an abundant house supper is soon cooked. - -[8] Red pepper. - -[9] Cabbage. - -[10] A kind of sausage, resembling those made at Bologna. - -[11] Bacon.--Spanish bacon is certainly the best in the world, which -may be accounted for by the swine being fed principally on acorns, -chesnuts, and Indian corn. - -[12] No vain boast--the fact being established on the testimony of -Rocca. - -[13] Florez Medallas de las Colonias, &c. - -[14] Mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus--not the Ilipa of Strabo -and Pliny, situated on the river Boetis, and in the county of Seville. - -[15] The orchard. - -[16] Evil doer. - -[17] Alleys. - -[18] The dead body. - -[19] Roguish. - -[20] La Martiniere fell into a strange error in describing this river -and the battle field on its bank; making the stream fall into the bay -of Cadiz, and the scene of Alfonso's victory some fifty miles from -Tarifa. This mistake has been followed by several modern authors. - -[21] Not the Mellaria of Pliny, which was a city of the Turduli, within -the county of Cordoba. - -[22] A ruined town, no longer inhabited. - -[23] By Strabo ninety-four miles, following the coast: i.e. 750 Stadia. - -[24] Lib. III. Some editions enumerate two cities called _Besippo_, -thus, "Baesaro Tauilla dicte Baesippo, Barbesula, Lacippo, Baesippo, &c.;" -but Holland and Harduin give only one, calling the first "_Belippo_." - -[25] There is no Epidemic here. - -[26] There are more direct cross-roads to these places, but they are -not always passable in winter. - -[27] _Toll-house._ - -[28] Strabo. - -[29] This one amongst the various restraints laid on the trade of -Gibraltar has very lately been removed on the remonstrance of our -government. - -[30] Shops where ice is sold. - -[31] I understand this Cathedral is now being patched up in an -economical way to render it serviceable. - -[32] Road of Hercules. The causeway connecting Cadiz with the Isla de -Leon is so called, and supposed to be a work of the Demi-god. - -[33] 400 or 500 butts of Wine are shipped yearly from this place. - -[34] The old mouth of the Guadalete is obstructed by a yet more -impracticable bar. - -[35] 10,000 butts of Wine are collected annually from the vineyards of -Puerto Santa Maria. The exports amount to 12,000. - -[36] Camomile. - -[37] Mother. - -[38] So called from the town of _Montilla_, whence the grape, that -originally produced this description of dry, light-coloured wine, was -brought to Xeres. - -[39] Carthusian convent. - -[40] Strabo and Pliny. - -[41] A Fen, subject to the inundations of the sea. Such, however, is -not the case here. - -[42] Water-courses, which are dry in summer. - -[43] Written _Vrgia_ by Pliny--_Vcia_ by Ptolemy. - -[44] Itin. Anton. - -[45] Espana Sagrada. - -[46] This supposes the earth's circumference to have been reckoned -240,000 stadia, giving 83-1/3 miles to a degree of the meridian. By the -calculation of Eratosthenes, the circumference of the earth was 252,000 -stadia, which gives exactly 700 stadia, or 87-1/2 miles to a degree. - -[47] Mariana (lib. 3. cap. 22) has quite mistaken the situation of this -place, which he describes as two leagues from Xeres, _on the banks of -the Guadalete_. It is two leagues from Xeres, certainly, but nearly -three from the Guadalete, and but one and a half from the Guadalquivir. - -[48] The area of the Mezquita at Cordoba, taken altogether, is larger, -but not the enclosed portion of Gothic architecture, which is, properly -speaking, the Episcopal church. - -[49] A long time since. - -[50] In England, however, it must be the taste of the nation that is -suffering from disease, rather than its drama, if, with such writers as -Sheridan Knowles, Talfourd, and Bulwer, the theatre does not once more -become a popular place of resort. - -[51] Farce; but, literally, gout, highly seasoned dish. - -[52] Low and disorderly people. - -[53] Florez Medallas descubiertas, &c. - -[54] Old Seville. - -[55] De Bell. Civ. - -[56] Hollond--intending, of course, the Itipa of the Itinerary, since -the city of that name, mentioned by Pliny, was on the right bank of -the Guadalquivir; and from medals discovered of it, whereon a fish is -borne, may be concluded to have stood on the very margin of the river. - -[57] The gallant and talented author of the "History of the Peninsular -War" has fallen into some slight topographical errors (caused, -probably, by the extraordinary inaccuracy of the Spanish maps) in -describing the movements of the contending armies. He describes, for -instance, the French as obliging the Duke of Albuquerque to abandon -his position at Carmona (where he had hoped to cover both Seville -and Cadiz), by moving from Ecija upon Utrera (i.e. in rear of the -Spanish army), along "a road by Moron, shorter" than that leading to -the same place through Carmona. But so far from this road by Moron -being "_shorter_," it is yet more circuitous than the chaussee; and, -moreover, by skirting the foot of the Ronda mountains, it is both bad -and hilly. - -He furthermore represents the Duke of Albuquerque as falling back -from Utrera upon Xeres, with all possible speed, and, nevertheless, -taking Lebrija in his way, which town is, at least, eight miles out -of the direct road. A French account (_La Pene, Campagne de 1810_) -says, the Spanish army fell back from Carmona "par le chemin _le plus -direct, Utrera et Arcos sur Xeres_,"--an error equally glaring, for the -chaussee is the shortest road from Utrera to Xeres;--in fact, it is as -direct as a road can well be, and leaves Arcos some twelve miles on -the left! We may suppose, in attempting to reconcile these discrepant -accounts, that the main body of the duke's army retreated from Utrera -to Xeres by the chaussee; the cavalry by Arcos, to cover its right -flank during the march; and that the road by Lebrija was taken by the -troops withdrawn from Seville, as being the most direct route from that -city to Xeres. - -[58] Don Maldonado Saavedra viewed it in this light, imagining that, in -the Itinerary of Antoninus from Cadiz to Cordoba, two distinct roads -were referred to; one proceeding direct, by way of Seville, whence it -was taken up by another road, afterwards described, to Cordoba; the -other (starting again from Cadiz) traversing the Serrania de Ronda to -Antequera, and proceeding thence to Cordoba by Ulia. Florez, however, -disputes this hypothesis, conceiving that but one route is intended, -and that from Seville onwards it was given, not as a direct road, but -merely as one by which troops might be marched if occasion required. -But why, if such were the case, a road should have been made that -increased the distance from Seville to Antequera from 85 to 121 miles, -he does not explain; and I confess, therefore, it seems to me, that Don -Maldonado Saavedra's supposition is the more probable. The distances, -however, between the modern places which he has named as corresponding -with those mentioned in the Itinerary do not at all agree; and he -also, in laying down the road from Cadiz to Antequera, has made it -unnecessarily circuitous. The following towns will be found to answer -much better with those mentioned in the Roman Itinerary, and the line -connecting them is one of the most practicable through the Serrania. - -_Iter a Gadis Corduba, milia plus minus 295 sic._ - - Roman miles. - - Ad pontem (Puente Zuazo) m. p. m. 12 - Portu Gaditano (Puerto Santa Maria) 14 - Hasta (near La Mesa de Asta) 16 - Ugia (Las Cabezas de San Juan) 27 - Orippo (Dos Hermanos) 24 - Hispali (Seville) 9 - - (returning now to the Puente Zuazo, we have to) - - Basilippo (a rocky mound and ruins between Paterna - and Alcala de los Gazules) 21 - - -[59] Olbera, according to Saavedra. - -[60] This disagreement with the heading is in the original. - -[61] Cura de los Palacios. - -[62] The diminutive of Venta. - -[63] Are they English? - -[64] Literally--on which foot the business was lame. - -[65] - - He who shelters himself under a good tree, - gets a good shade. - - -[66] Name and surname. - -[67] Beneficed clergyman. - -[68] Glance--from ojo, eye. - -[69] Good for study. - -[70] The lower orders of Spaniards, generally speaking, imagine that -Protestantism implies a denial of the Godhead in the person of Our -Saviour, and consider that but for our eating pork, like _Christianos -Viejos_, we should be little better than Jews. For the whole seed of -Israel, they entertain a most preposterous dislike; so deep rooted is -it, indeed, that I once knew an instance of a young Spanish woman--far -removed from a _low_ station in life, however--who was perfectly -horrified on being told by an English lady that Our Saviour was a -Jew. Her exclamation of "Jesus!" was in a key which seemed to express -wonder that such a blasphemous assertion had not met with the summary -punishment of Annanias and Sapphira. I have no doubt but that the bad -success which has attended the _Cristina_ arms is attributed by the -lower orders less to the incapacity of Espartero and Co. than to the -Jewish blood flowing in the veins of Senor Mendizabel. - -[71] Mapping the town. - -[72] A Spanish side-saddle; or, more properly, an _arm-chair_, placed -sideways on a horse's back, with a board to rest the feet upon. - -[73] Female attendant. - -[74] Managing person. - -[75] Ages ago. - -[76] Many Roman Emperors. - -[77] As it is said, by an Englishman named Marlborough, and other very -distinguished persons. - -[78] Palacios, posadas, y todo--i.e., palaces, inns, and _every thing_. - -[79] Throughout Spain. - -[80] For every thing it has a cure--look you, &c. - -[81] Youngster. - -[82] The poor old Tio could not have acted under "proper directions," -as I am informed that he died the year following my last visit to the -_Hedionda_. - -[83] I drink no other--never any other--I cook and every thing with it. - -[84] Even to its bad smell. - -[85] Little walk. - -[86] A game that bears some resemblance to Boston. - -[87] The Invalid. - -[88] The water--nothing but the water--there is nothing in the world -more salutary. - -[89] They say that he was one of those lords, of whom there are so many -in England. - -[90] Heaps of gold. - -[91] To me it appears. - -[92] The Spaniards considered tea a medicine. - -[93] A gentleman in whom perfect confidence might be placed. - -[94] Yes, sir; that is true. - -[95] Pastures. - -[96] There are many robbers hereabouts--last year (accursed be these -rascally Spaniards!) a good fowling-piece was stolen from me in this -confounded narrow pass, &c. - -[97] These beggarly Spaniards, &c. - -[98] Young lady of the house. - -[99] Very well _combed_, literally--her hair well dressed. - -[100] Unequalled. - -[101] A young girl I am bringing up for (_i. e._ to be) a countess. - -[102] Now, gentlemen, it is necessary to load--these cowardly Spaniards -always fall suddenly upon one; and, if we are not prepared, we shall -be all netted, like so many little birds.--We are all well armed with -double-barrelled guns, and, with prudence, we shall have nothing to -fear--but ...! prudence is necessary. - -[103] In these parts, no evil-disposed persons whatever are to be met -with; that sort of _canaille_ know too well who Louis de Castro is. - -[104] A gazpacho, eaten hot. - -[105] Literally, _beds_--spots frequented by the deer. - -[106] Wolf. - -[107] The position taken up by the sportsmen is called the _cama_, as -well as the haunt of the game. - -[108] A day of foxes--an expression amongst Spanish sportsmen, -signifying an unlucky day. - -[109] Literally, light--here used as "_fire!_" - -[110] A wild boar! zounds! - -[111] Yes, it is a sow. - -[112] To escape from the thunder, and encounter the lightning. - -[113] The war-cry of the Spaniards. - -[114] I precede you with this motive, and in the shortest possible time -_all will be ready_. - -[115] Very dear friend of mine; aprec'ion, abbreviation of apreciacion; -esteem. - -[116] Go you with God ... and without a horse. - -[117] An ounce; i. e. a doubloon. - -[118] Get down directly. - -[119] Perhaps a flight of woodcocks will arrive to-night. Is it not -true, good father? - -[120] "It is infested with banditti at each step. Is it not true, Don -Diego, that that rocky path beyond Alcala is called the road to the -infernal regions?" "Yes, yes--as true as holy writ." - -[121] Rock of Sancho. - -[122] The little stream that empties itself into the sea, near Tarifa, -is called _El_ Salado, _par excellence_, in consequence of the great -victory gained on its banks by Alfonso XI.; but, properly speaking, it -is El Salado _de Tarifa_. - -[123] Hirtius, Bel. Hisp. cap 7. - -[124] Ibid. cap. 8. - -[125] Dion--Lib. 48. - -[126] Dion and Hirtius. - -[127] Cap. 27. - -[128] _Singilia Hegua_, corrected by Hardouin to Singili Ategua.--The -ruins of Singili are on the banks of the Genil (Singilis) to the north -of Antequera. - -[129] It is a mere boast, however, for, according to Rocca, the French -entered the town and levied a contribution. - -[130] Scanty _vecinos_--a _vecino_, used as a _statistical_ term, -implies a hearth or family, though literally a neighbour. The Spanish -computation of population is always made by _vecinos_. - -[131] He does not understand. - -[132] Have no anxiety. - -[133] Mapping the country. - -[134] Town. - -[135] Fair and softly. - -[136] Nonsense. - -[137] Should this good woman be yet living, I suspect her opinion on -this point will have undergone a material change--like that of most -Spaniards. - -[138] With polite mien and deportment. - -[139] What a rare people are these English! - -[140] Mentioned by Hirtius--Bell. Hisp. Cap. XXVII. - -[141] The salutary waters of the divine Genil.--DON QUIJOTE. - -[142] Dion and Hirtius. - -[143] Zurita and Hardouin maintain, that it is not in the old editions -of Pliny. - -[144] Foreign gentlemen. - -[145] The wheel of fortune revolves more rapidly than that of a mill, -and those who were elevated yesterday, to-day are on the ground. - -[146] These _Salvo conductos_ were by no means uncommon in those days. -A friend of mine offered to procure me one to ensure me the protection -of the celebrated _Jose Maria_. - -[147] Forward, forward, heartless deceiver! - -[148] There is no wedding without its morrow's festival. - -[149] - - Between the hand and the mouth - the soup falls - - -[150] Holy face. - -[151] Uninhabited place. - -[152] Distant from Cordoba 300 stadia. - -[153] Distant fourteen miles from the Guadalquivir. - -[154] _Illiturgi quod Forum Julium._--PLINY. - -[155] Titus Livius, lib. 28. - -[156] Pliny. - -[157] To the parlour! to the parlour! - -[158] Be not afraid. - -[159] Stew. - -[160] Literally, that he could no more. - -[161] I, the king. - -[162] With us, I am sorry to say, "the honour of knighthood" has, in -too many instances, become rather an acknowledgment of so many years' -_good salary received_, than of any meritorious service performed. - -[163] A very small copper coin. - -[164] And this is a teapot! - -[165] A pillow! - -[166] What voluptuous people! - -[167] A stone--a flint. - -[168] How! without horses, without mules, without any thing, save steam! - -[169] The estate, so called, was bestowed on the Duke of Wellington, as -a slight acknowledgment of the distinguished services rendered by him -to the Spanish nation. - -[170] Santa Fe, built by Ferdinand and Isabella during the siege of -Granada, and dignified by them with the title of _city_, is a wretched -little walled town, of some twelve or fifteen hundred inhabitants; and, -excepting two full-length portraits of the Catholic kings contained in -the church, possesses nothing worthy of notice. - -[171] Eating; to use the expression of one of the peasants we conversed -with. - -[172] _Itinerary of Antoninus._ - - Malaca to Suel 21 m. p. m. - To Cilniana 24 " - To Barbariana 34 " - To Calpe Carteia 10 " - -- - Total 89 miles. - -Pomponius Mela has made sad confusion of the itinerary from Malaca to -Gades (of which the above is a part), by introducing Barbesula and -Calpe, and mentioning Carteia twice; but, on attentive observation, it -is evident he intended to imply that the road bifurked at Cilniana, -one branch going straight to Carteia by Barbariana, the other making a -detour by Barbesula and Calpe, and rejoining the former at Carteia; the -distance from Malaga to Cadiz, by the first route, being 155 miles, by -the latter 186. - -[173] Pliny. - -[174] Published in 1765. - -[175] "Two leagues" are his words--meaning Spanish measure, or eight -miles English; since he estimates the league at four miles. - -[176] Otherwise called Horgarganta. - -[177] Florez fixes Salduba where I suppose Cilniana to have stood, -i. e. on the eastern bank of the Rio Verde, about two miles to the -westward of Marbella. Cilniana he places at the Torre de Bovedas, a -site to which the objections above stated apply equally as to the -position assigned to that place by Mr. Carter. - -[178] Pliny places Salduba between Barbesula and Suel. - -[179] Marbella is a fine place, but do not enter it. - -[180] This may appear at variance with what I have said in computing -the distance from Malaca to Calpe Carteia in Roman miles--viz., only -eighty of eighty-three and one third to a degree of the meridian: but, -besides that the distance from Malaga to Gibraltar is at least three -English miles greater than to Carteia, the measurement I here give is -along a winding pathway, that makes the distance considerably more than -it would have been by a properly made road, even though it had followed -all the irregularities of the coast. - -[181] Bell. Hisp. cap. xxix. - -[182] Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga. - -[183] Traces of the first-named of these Roman roads may yet be seen -about Tolox. The latter was one of the great military roads mentioned -in the Itinerary of Antoninus, and, doubtless, existed long before that -work was compiled. - -[184] Hirtius, de Bell. Hisp. xxix. et seq. - -[185] Great allowance must be made for exaggeration in enumerating -the strength of contending armies in those early times, since even -in these days of despatches, bulletins, and Moniteurs, it is so -extremely difficult to get at the truth. The battle of Waterloo offers -a remarkable instance of this, for no two published accounts agree as -to the respective numbers of the belligerents, and one which I have -read--a French one, of course--swells the force under the Duke of -Wellington, on the 18th June, to 170,000 men!!! - -[186] The inscription is given at length in Florez Espana Sagrada. - -[187] The source of the Sigila, now called El Rio Grande, is -twenty-five English miles from Cartama, following the course of the -river. - -[188] Certainly _not_ Mr. Carter's, than which I never saw a more -complete caricature. Not one of the rivers is marked correctly upon it, -and the towns are scattered about where chance directed. - -[189] Hirtius Bell. Hisp. xxviii. - -[190] Ibid. xli. - -[191] An account of which place has already been given in Chapter I. of -this volume. - -[192] "Don Ferdinand the Seventh, by the grace of God, king of Castile, -Leon, Aragon, the Two Sicilies, Jerusalem, Navarre, Granada, Toledo, -Valencia, Gallicia, Majorca, Seville, Sardinia, Cordoba, Corsica, -Murcia, Jaen, the Algarves, Algeciras, Gibraltar, the Canary Islands, -the East and West Indies, islands and terra firma of the Great Ocean; -archduke of Austria; duke of Burgundy, Brabant, and Milan; Count of -Hapsburg, Flanders, the Tyrol, and Barcelona; Lord of Biscay and -Molina, &c."--The seeming wish to avoid prolixity, implied by this -"&c." is admirable. - -[193] _Clean_ blood. - -[194] At any price. - -[195] These love affairs are much to my taste. - -[196] Attractions--literally, _hooking_ qualities. - -[197] In fine--as it was captain for captain. - -[198] Not a bit. - -[199] Would to God! - -[200] Eating her life. - -[201] A Post league is equal to 3 British statute miles and 807 yards. - -[202] To Algeciras, by boat, saves 4 miles. - -[203] This is the only stage that is not perfectly practicable for a -carriage. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -Adventnre with Itinerant=> Adventure with Itinerant {pg v} - -gradully hauled=> gradually hauled {pg 54} - -rocky islot rises=> rocky islet rises {pg 62} - -in the joint-stock vilstge=> in the joint-stock village {pg 180} - -he exclaimed=> he ex-exclaimed {pg 212} - -It was necessry=> It was necessary {pg 241} - -the chace, and trust=> the chase, and trust {pg 256} - -addressiug me=> addressing me {pg 300} - -extarordinary=> extraordinary {pg 331} - -woollen mattrasses=> woollen mattresses {pg 337} - -too many intances=> too many instances {pg 346} - -decsends=> descends {pg 384} - -considered irresisitble=> considered irresistible {pg 387} - -acccordingly=> accordingly {pg 421} - -to unite her to to the son=> to unite her to the son {pg 429} - -long turned a a deaf ear=> long turned a deaf ear {pg 430} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Excursions in the mountains of Ronda -and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, v. 2/2, by Charles Rochfort Scott - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA, V.2 *** - -***** This file should be named 43705.txt or 43705.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/7/0/43705/ - -Produced by Ann Jury and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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