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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:55:17 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:55:17 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/44688-0.txt b/44688-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b5d7b07 --- /dev/null +++ b/44688-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6879 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 *** + +Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected +without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have +been retained as printed. Words printed in italics are noted with +underscores: _italics_. + + + + +TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA. + + +BY + +A Pennsylvania Girl. + +THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT TRUTH +IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS, +WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG +JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO + +_The Author_, + +FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON. + + +LINCOLN, NEB. +JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS, +1884. + + + + +A WORD TO THE READER. + + +If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual +Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and +triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and +valleys, read Chapter I. + +Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, Chapter II. + +Of the great Platte valley, Chapter III. + +Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, Chapter IV. + +Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and +liquor laws, and Capital, Chapter V. + +If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the +world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, Chapter VI. + + +And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand _just +why_ this little book--if such it may be called, came to be written. +We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a +Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it +more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown +in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned +lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give +everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch +upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a +stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the +state from Dakota to Kansas--306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the +U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the +state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip +and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you +read ONLY TRUTH. + +My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement; +and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My +parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing +the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and +rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882, +and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was +anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my +youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself--claimants +must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I +promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and +intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one +years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the +pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus +far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch, +sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not +deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet +I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many +times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him +in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry, +would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered +with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was +ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his +was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the +power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well +arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far +north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go +there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they +wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they +would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably +detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple +of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could +depend for care it was decided that I should go. + +When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a +"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as +a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like +fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I +never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines +were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and +features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows: + +A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The +squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good, +sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true, +who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from +death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians. + +The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from +his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the +old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a +better life in a new home." + +Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or +locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack +mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I +had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to +my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had +written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story +would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack +in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book. + +Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross? +and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done? + +"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book +in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes +lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned +from books, and then the book will be--only a little pamphlet after all. + + + + +THROUGH NEBRASKA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford, +Pa., in Northern Nebraska--A Description of the Country in which +they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha +Valleys--Their First Summer's Work and Harvest. + + +True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to +begin this with words of love of our own native land,--the state of all +that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest +to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one +vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams +abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a +peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to +become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union. + +Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain +ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of +golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil +that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told--affording her children +the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in +until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go +out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new +homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers +lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony +for all mankind." + +Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a +pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by +Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and +west branches of the Tunagwant--or Big Cove--Creek, and hid away from +the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in +1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the +valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was +transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and +selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth, +until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and, +forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that +has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in +all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class +money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told +from a member of the Standard Oil Company. + +Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass +quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes, +with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free, +social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be +suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and +operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live +for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time +and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of +living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to +carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune +sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only +for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the +valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work +of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are +yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show +innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks +rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a +feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged +hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly +burning, which livens the darkest night. + +Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and +like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning. +Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and +spent their money even more lavishingly than it came--so often counting +on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing +and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil, +when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from +territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to +reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then +new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured +many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the +deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new +fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000 +inhabitants. + +Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And +to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great +excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not +only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with +the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing +their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil. + +Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their _all_; +dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would +sell and realize a fortune in a few hours. + +Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the +wealth the day would bring. + +What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day +advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the +"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top. +So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and +happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny, +and often more than their own were swept. + +Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they +had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces +there, but faces that were _green_ with despair. This was only one +day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is +"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But +when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it. + +Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at +last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the +country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The +Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of +Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A +colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received +so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in +attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week +after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they +numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the +year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws. +Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed +must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee; +but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of +which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray +expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and +lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public +buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots--a business and +residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of +remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within +a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of +spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage. +Also the keeping of gambling houses." + +On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered +seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location. + +The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear +their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in +northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general +wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of +Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed, +and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian +reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the +choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where +nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of +many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after +many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was +arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and +Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April +appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists. + +We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains +of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when +anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high +for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager +pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and +landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where? + +We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only +those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold +kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize +what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty, +and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would +bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of +the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can +know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some +of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county, +chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to +Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making +and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than +when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more +substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or +monopoly. + +The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done, +homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many +sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday +morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but +it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the +going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those +left behind. + +And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the +exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and +joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were +companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye" +hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving +those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father +and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left +behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by +long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long +letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home. + +One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the +hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they +as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying +all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all +just to keep back the sobs and tears. + +Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated +many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must +go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load +of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping +of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we +were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle +westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we +received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left +behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure +snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is +heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears +until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity, +even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it +seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking +back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled +with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the +cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of +hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among +the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of. + +But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and +busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging +everything for comfort sake. + +This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends, +which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one +bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil +and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home? + +Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a +number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow +them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all +the good things a lunch basket can be stored with. + +When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua, +now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom +people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most +popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles +wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville, +we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to +speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would +call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose +their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we +rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the +childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball +so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the +last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would +slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of +Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points, +we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all +sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony +babe. + +Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad +farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and +jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed +to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the +children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the +racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing +Cleveland--leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city +and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight +hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn +with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears, +such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind +lines I then had written: + + Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers, + Your loveliness we'll strew + From Washington to Cleveland's soil, + The funeral cortege through. + In that loved land that gave him birth + We lay him down to rest, + 'Tis but his mangled form alone, + His soul is with the blest. + Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist + With many a falling tear, + A mist is over all this land + For him we loved most dear. + + "Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing; + In mournful strains and slow, + While in the tomb we gently lay, + Our martyred Garfield low. + +Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but +rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take +up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled +down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may +be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who +never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we +leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting +hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr. +Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee +pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's +generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup, +until he is now rinsing the grounds. + +Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain +would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word +we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than +all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest +comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand +almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains +and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since +childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first +loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind. +'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a +better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the +same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of +the world. + +When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were +surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white +sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill +to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant +to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large +and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were +quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of +the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area, +24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88 +miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled +in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we +bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on, +with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only +to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago. + +The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a +decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around +by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing +his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but +little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house, +which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The +Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats, +being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It +made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were +anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of +humanity. + +I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not +sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R., +and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty +flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands +and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of +Illinois--rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or +stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing +everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board, +barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing +green. + +The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far +apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors. + +Crossed the Mississippi river about four P.M., and when mid-way over +was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and about a mile +in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off the old grass, +which was a novel sight to us. + +Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark +just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see. + +Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more +like a delegation from "Blackville"--from the soot and cinder-dirt--than +a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a +camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three +o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by +moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into +the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East +miss the rough, rugged hills of home! + +The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,--as one remarked, "not from +behind a hill, but right out of the ground"--ushering in another +beautiful day. + +At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to +see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer +boats--three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was +leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull +lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and +have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we +never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore +in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but +"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand. +Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not +use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of +a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point, +the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned. +When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had +a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east +to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level +lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for +the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet +we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within. +Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no +other home. + +To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who +would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it +certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us +who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not +expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more +devoted to the old home than before. + +We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they +had not helped to bear us on their bosom to--we did not know what. How +little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no +rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters." +Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the +waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the +world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out +on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on +just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores +that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the +voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and +thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be +more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast +adrift upon the sea of _our_ life; and though they may be tempest +tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost. + +When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and +switched on to Nebraska's _terra firma_. + +Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place, +but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered +westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger +agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he +fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he +represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of +Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had +just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for +"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many +were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we +flattered ourselves that we _did_ well sustain the old family +honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded +Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in +which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us. +Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you +all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm +and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a +day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at +a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather +half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was +sung out, and we were on with the rest--to go calling and visit with +our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the +monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of +the cars. + +One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string; +mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt +I was going only to soon leave them--they to scatter over the plains, +and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a +mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received +a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down +the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we +had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as +they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play. + +Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we +reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from +the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He +received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed +in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days' +journey. + +Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the +claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly +had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with +him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again. + +I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already +be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead +grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire, +and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground--it has the same +rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west +we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and +sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us +when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and +what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of +fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses +far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses. + +We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw +this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who +had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the +prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his +luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped +at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be +cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of +"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but +were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the +car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I +hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west? +I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our +tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with +the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were +not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of +such an act. + +About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station, +Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors +locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our +first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our +coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a +good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and +could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a +comfortable resting place for the night. + +We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air +of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like +birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their +nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists +expected to find their nests of homes. + +But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark +that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had +to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the +songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a +mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader, +the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took +right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after +the smoke had cleared away, looked--and--well--we missed paper and +pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown +that followed. + +A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of +Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind +of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost +among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and +stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to +breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to +note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote +down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will +sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until +breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something--I didn't +know what, but full of curiosity went to see. + +A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that +arrived last night?" + +"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is." + +"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time." + +"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky." + +It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming +implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went +to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as +ox-plows were concerned. + +What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey, +and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast +before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made +an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if +the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on +to--reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole +truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of +the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey +better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do +you think of a climate like that? + +But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales, +and in reality we had only eaten--I mean we had only gained one and a +half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper +were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity. + +When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there +trying to sleep. + +"Home-sick?" we asked. + +"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night." + +No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home. + +First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the +depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location. + +The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad +through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to +secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being +claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the +morrow. + +The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be +seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the +evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above +his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with +the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening. + +_Saturday morning._ Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the men +started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and +ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded +with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who +were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away. + +But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was +the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that +western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers +of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town. +But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and +wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival. +Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to +anxious ones in the East. + +In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie, +about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the +river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely +turned already and didn't know the town I had just left. + +The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and +is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water +is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook +and line, spears and seine are used instead. + +Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked, +yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there +is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the +streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops, +and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,--cross +I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know +what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear +what Prof. Aughey says: + +"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state. +It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley +widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and +often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river +approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into +the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its +course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall, +and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable +manufacturing region." + +We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we +made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not +have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the +water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while +the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some +places its bed. + +Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it +quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high; +plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white; +roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of +the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had +a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and +walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out. + +The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a +frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the +shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the +bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened +with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it +down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves +the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at +first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many +inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water +from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is +easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water. + +The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight. +But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you, +forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills +fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly +sod, dot the surrounding country. + +_Monday, 30th._ Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little sunshine. +For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought and found a +very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John Skirving, of +whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought his family +from Jefferson City, Iowa. + +_Tuesday._ A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes through +everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters in camp +near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with nothing +but their tent for shelter. + +_Wednesday._ About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have +snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine +rain. + +Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at +home. + +_Thursday._ And still it rains and blows! + +_Friday._ A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I got out +of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther west, +and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to me I +scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down and +quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed in +the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I +hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing +had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise +than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to +make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that +I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I +had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half +expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared +away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so +dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that +the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon +dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty +dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day. + +_Saturday._ Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The majority +in good heart and looking well despite the weather and exposure they +have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few are +discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere. + +They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still +farther northwest--some going as far west as Holt creek, and so +scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a +disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the +same church and school would serve them all. + +Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily, +through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the +colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been +claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located +more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more +deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was +purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be +a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top, +which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the +wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and +hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again, +and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers. + +Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles +in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and +then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office +and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there +was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend +the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim, +hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see +a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his. + +Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it. + +_Sunday, 6 May._ Bright and warm. Would not have known there had +been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely +dried, and walking pleasant. + +A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon, +and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the +Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it +quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even +here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our +attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going, +and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on +this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly. + +The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness: +"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn +valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their +presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be +sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with +thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him +we can look for care and protection at all times. + +In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on +temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people, +as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in +"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from +"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the +same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we +had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare +to think how far we were from its shelter. + +But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his +love is just the same the wide world over. + +_Monday._ Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the +location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but +themselves to care for, have started. + +_Tuesday._ Rains. Folks disappointed. + +_Wednesday._ Rains and blows. Discouraging. + +_Thursday._ Blows and rains. _Very_ discouraging. + +The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season. +Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in +some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard +frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the +colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in +comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know +where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build +their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their +families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I +cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I +am greatly in sympathy with them. + +With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I +feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes." +Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the +land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I +am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds +with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson +county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me +some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I +have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every +kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home; +in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give +every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on +my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own +care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I +trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and +protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while +I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew +before--though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my +appetite, as well as the climate--yet every one experiences an increase +of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called +"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft +beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his +complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the +eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and +wherever it found him. + +_Friday._ Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off. + +It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a +prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at +night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The +prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields +of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow +the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen +some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter +upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so +long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to +drive their cattle out to the "divides,"--hills between rivers--to +pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on +them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch +a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her +pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to +scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have +also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with +the good. + +During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants +keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara +country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great +hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every +worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top. +Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon, +which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole +in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with +them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are +generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the +wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking, +overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often +patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and +children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the +rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that +look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show +they have had a good living where they came from. + +Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good +education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright +little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from +Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving +Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the +country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon, +spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her +husband attended to several valuable Texas horses. + +Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three +weeks." + +"How can you travel through such weather?" + +"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the +rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down." + +"Never get sick?" + +"No." + +"Not even a cold?" + +"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started." + +"How many miles can you go in a day?" + +"We average about twenty." + +The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look +healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of +people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go +whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure +we owe the opening up of the western country. + +_Saturday morning._ Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared off +nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All +getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr. +Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of +oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the +majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so, +much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and +left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double +bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last +week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by +Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years. + +Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S. +gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to +bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off +the currants. + +Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska +behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I +think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along. +Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the +wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool. + +Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and +as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under +the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them +with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well +trained by the time we reach the end of our journey. + +"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far +we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We +are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows +running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road +running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart, +but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I +see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and +make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to +pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt. +The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another. + +Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile +stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation, +not even Stuart to be seen from this point. + +Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look +out and perhaps I will find one. + +Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be +a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it. +Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right +are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles +away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves. + +The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the--oxen of +about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy +walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles, +wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had +tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new +homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying +supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo +stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which +gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its +protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery +and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time! + +Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real +little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called, +but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear +water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland +in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks _are_ sweeter for singing +to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their foam," +and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to the many +that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on the +hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had reigned +within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the walls +falling. + +Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as +the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for +your sake, reader. + +Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that +stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite +new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother +their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at +least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie +is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children! + +Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of +the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back +memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly +written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims." +All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put +forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an +undertaking for me. + +"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!" + +"Is what?" + +"Why, that stick for a whip-handle." + +I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had +seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it. + +The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night +at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to +the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of +way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am +not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with +travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady, +though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we +are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the +few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen +all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no +bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and +will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just +shut my eyes until we are on the other side. + +There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to +secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not +disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite +crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the +setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of +the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast +this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the +Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing +most interesting. + +Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my +barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name +it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48°, +think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair +ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out. + +One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the +banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and +bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen, +almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses +the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock +that juts out of the hill--first stone or rock seen since we entered +the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man +coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the +hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help +you gentlemen, but that off-horse is _terribly weak_. The other horse +is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak that +off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. While +we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough to +learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he was +lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly who +have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men push, +but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. The men +debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and carry them +up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my +suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk +with, "That's it--only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and +a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men, +while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to +go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble. + +When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk, +as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill, +across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with +a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a +narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond +willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie +schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very +good harbor for these ships of the west. + +"What kind of a shanty is this?" + +"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't +think worth while to light up in the evening." + +On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I +can scarcely take another step. + +"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open +door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered +about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus." + +"No, just across the river where you see that light." + +Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel +about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and _so glad_ to get to _somewhere_. + +Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly +after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his +hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here +before dark. + +Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr. +Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa. + +"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband. + +"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs. +M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon. +Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But +Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take +them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to +all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good +supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get +laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new +apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod +roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on +the floor, while the family occupies the old part. + +About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of +the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently +pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general +uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of +the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping +into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said, +"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer +shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log +house, 14×16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen, +dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture, +without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the +family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and +son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this +old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the +comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and +dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened. +The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men +have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the +house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the +ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing +over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking +badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in. +Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection. + +Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone +Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion, +but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm, +so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled. + +The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing +machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with +carpet and rubber coats. + +How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and +meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river--hope it is meat cast +adrift for some hungry traveler--and some one has used my loaf for a +cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So +I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free +from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted +experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way. +Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while +the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and +prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and +went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons. + +The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the +_hotel_ where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the shelter +we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their wagons, +and wonder where the rest of our party are. + +The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters +makes us even more homesick. + +"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every +thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I +_do wish_ it would stop!" "When _will_ it clear off?" "Does it _always_ +rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of times, only to +cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving sixteen souls +crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. Just how was +a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. Reader, I wish +you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me by the stove, I +then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you ever read Mark +Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, there are a few +_innocents abroad_, just now, _roughing it_ to their hearts' content. + +The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down +crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some +blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick, +sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores. +Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker--there, I knew she would rock on Mr. +Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double +up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a +better chance. + +If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might +perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be +dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and +then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do +pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself +fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a +chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on +two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie, +you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers. + +Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before +the stove, and list--he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me. + +Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a +pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots +and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that +than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden +pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if +he doesn't stop nodding so far back. + +Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more +words of Kathrina. + +Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the +bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and +crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been +driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog, +give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then; +casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep, +because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather +scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of +these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these +sleepers must be kept warm. + +Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet +and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does +weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small +as the unoccupied space, that's all. + +Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my +eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the +oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do? +To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the +floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get +up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I +leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that +"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just +as they can, mostly. So + + All cuddled up together, + In a little weenty heap, + I double up my pillow + And laugh myself to sleep. + I know you will not blame me + If I dream of home so bright-- + I'll see you in the morning + So now a kind "good night". + +As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt +further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little +bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is +seeking rest for to-night. + +"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for +breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep +longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't +always slept on a table? + +I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning, +could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were +sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are +surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in +almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension +table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the +dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this +chapter. + +Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever +regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge," +and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights' +lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought +they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor, +to sleep. + +_Monday morning._ Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start +about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies +ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push +them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight. + +But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in +the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in +the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on +over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to +snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head +well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to +start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the +trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all +sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking +and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and +pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try +hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this +bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I +pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only +variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a +tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for +several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost +trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both +of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that +neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two +squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces +looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their +situation. + +The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground +soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near +where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared +their lands, the country took on a better appearance. + +The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that +look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and +very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if +possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept +up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How +much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were +ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a +plow, and asked no more questions. + +"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross +with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a +signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open +arms." + +And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married +brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner. +After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to +the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara +and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four P.M. + +Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home +until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us +feel quite at home. + +Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well +supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent" +to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely: + + "The sweetest songs are never sung; + The fairest pictures never hung; + The fondest hopes are never told-- + They are the heart's most cherished gold." + +They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer, +when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois +City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L. +added her beautiful children's stories. + +He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them, +and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization. +How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to +read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists? + +_Tuesday, 15th of May_, dawned without a cloud, and how bright +everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor +backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change +from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my +May day, but the story is a long one--too long for the pages of my +little book. + +And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to +gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the +hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of +the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans, +and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs +were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were +of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited +the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful +place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite +homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every +color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the +Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success, +after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house +where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which, +Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte, +twelve miles west. + +Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close +to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past +the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss +Minn to join our maying party. + +The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's +growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with +blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as +they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered +trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the +valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most +of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands +alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20 +acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is +covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of +a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they +are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others +that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the +touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had +been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a +shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but +those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists; +tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country +were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and +wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden +treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a +moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of +dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I +felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day, +and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars," +for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will +allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different. + +We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know +where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite +distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war +whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the +north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained +from this elevated point was grand. + +A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the +north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the +water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs +extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong +to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but +without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or +rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance +is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim +takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a +plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me +the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's +and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the +sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone, +to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel +lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our +many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in +places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of +spring? + +But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton, +your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western +girls would think of such a thing!" + +"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It +was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th +of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens, +gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or +have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the +difference in the years to me. + +No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and +the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of +an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring +in bloom, and I could not but gather of all--even the tiniest. + +The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and +remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the +previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not +so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over +the serious illness of a loved sister. + +I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers +with tear-dimmed eyes--sister May was dead, and everywhere it was +desolate. + +'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we +gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen. + +In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy +mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and +miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that +almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright. + +Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and +shared them with May, by laying them on her grave. + +To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I +celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost +untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the +favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks +where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will +gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so +lonely thinking of their daughter so far away. + +The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle--sister +Maggie's oldest child--who came to me for a May-flower in '76. + +But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was +growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to +gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love. + +Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears +that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown, +for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to +me. + +"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live _good_ lives and yet not make the +_most_ of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good and +useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good and +useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of the +hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and +prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now +budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner." + +After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will +be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone +Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious +mementos of our May-day in Nebraska. + +Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"--the +term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance, +and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a +neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately +come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the +life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I +tell these little things that those who do not already know, may +understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere. + +Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie +ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or _minnie_ in +the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor +woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a +word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and +then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright, +pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a +new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright +and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a +drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a +half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least, +the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky +complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black +braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears. +Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could +not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her +face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus +she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their _tepee_. +The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two +apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove, +table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed +covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen +except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The +furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and +neatness I had not expected. + +The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to +smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then +drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf +tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought, +it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege +lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband +laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her. +She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the +lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left +feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who +would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor; +labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw +is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by +those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by +the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians +are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing +every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice, +coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week. + +Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have +no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as +Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why +not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the +white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or +die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to +adopt! + +We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no +one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better. + +When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in +the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You +don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led +the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built, +so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting +to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag +carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by +being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had +the partition been finished. + +The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were +cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and +looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected +without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with +my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare +your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I +long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for +society." + +Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right +out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience. + +I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and +experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by +friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs. +W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known +the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes +overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost. +Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock +raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of +their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and +during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod, +but of lumber. + +"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling +here will help it so much, and now we will stay." + +Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing +she had a taste for the beautiful. + +After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made +our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the +buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked +like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a +prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground +homes. + +Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his +house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to +frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn +toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more. + +Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six +of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had +joined them. + +The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we +finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun, +suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and +where? + +Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to +many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska. + +The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept +hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms, +and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want +the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross +over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs +of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the +colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well +filled with weather stayed emigrants. + +Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not +come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday +night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When +daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along +the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river +and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the +journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies +dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned +his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left +Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with +sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found +for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C. + +Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned +that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter +prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what +you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not +expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country +just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find +the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would +not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged +when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt +for your motto, "What _others_ have done _I_ can do." Allow me to give +you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any of the +colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the disadvantages +of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April of '79 I came +to this country to look up a home where I could have good cattle range. +When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs crosswise to +look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further west, but +returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help of a young +man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was under roof. +While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made garden. We +then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and came back +in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two months' supply +of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than Keya Paha, +thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, was about +the nearest house. + +"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon +had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his +reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail, +that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to +come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose +reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number +together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the +government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat, +and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is +worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is +strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them +right on the war-path. + +"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made +Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from +Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time +it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a +distance of about sixty miles. + +"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school +house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister +(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha." + +Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of +firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s +father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower +part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many +a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of +satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give +them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on +reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters +have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without +meeting a soul on the way. + +"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The +Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid +of them." + +It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to +"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door. + +Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about +seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr +oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have +over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell. + +Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and +brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us +took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent; +went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of +an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From +the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet +strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful +frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's +dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his +blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower +limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down. + +When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their +meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant +plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind +of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with +needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding +their finger ends than was Mr. Clark. + +"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked. + +"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from +drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about +all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away, +I can tell you." + +We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson +from their experience--never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't +hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it +takes good strong material to stand the wind. + +In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the +prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is +indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving +grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave +great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new +growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was +not burnt. + +Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same +time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive +nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say, +burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass +roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy +soil. + +These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees. +Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often +planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato +patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To +prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a +supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of +course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has +passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a +cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you. + +_Monday, 21st._ Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn +planting. + + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED. + +As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to +be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be +interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to, +so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned +and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that +closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their +broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on +which cattle are grazing--that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo" +(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as +the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only +to now and then take a stroll over it. + +The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half +a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and +then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called +table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing +line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth, +where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here, +thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet +deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says +"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the +water is clear and pleasant to the taste. + +The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on +the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and +from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich. +The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there +are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak, +elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in +the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums, +choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one +has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size +and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead +of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom +so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in +great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines +that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes" +of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry, +which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little +white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a +foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not +choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they +are pleasant to the taste and refreshing. + +Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black +currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the +snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are +starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said +to be equally as good as the poled hops of home. + +"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs. +K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the +buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum, +and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in +clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from +the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in +color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters, +and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It +belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as +ordinary beans and eaten--if at starvation point. Of the other flowers +gathered mention was made on my May-day. + +Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is +easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet +not very hard. + +About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other +half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen +inches to two feet deep. + +I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by +those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are. +"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing +country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted +with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far +from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad +nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be +long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free +from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in +Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow +tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want; +no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we +will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us +to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little +alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"--to +scatter over--and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere. + +Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden +and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all +they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the +building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber +culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in +cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly. + +There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in +stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see +it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a +general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers +will tell the story of its worth. + +I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I +hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of +an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so +interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read. + +But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding +away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down +to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was +anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy +poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof +for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have +during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer +nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while +of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a +dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and +surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real +to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man +who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their +herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as +he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a +half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma. +I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?" + +"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was +before I came west." + +The room was about 10×12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and +part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made +when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they +lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on. + +To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude--so far +removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the +stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only +retreats for the night. + +We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the +Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and +wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course, +or else I am turned all wrong. + +_Tuesday._ Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to +regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together, +going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with +a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh! +I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she +talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble +monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no +doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could +do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under. + +Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and +gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I +felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as +much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible. + +We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to +Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K. +and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been +forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And +Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted +on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and +improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a +kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them +all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and +soon the little group of friends were left behind. + +I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to +part from them?--Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people +all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with +them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the +spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that +the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our +good plans could not be carried out. + +It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with +eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even +had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a +nice settlement of people. + +The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance +to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all +together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just +where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are +only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many +acres. + +One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no +good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the +unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose +wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for +the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over +the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The +tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses +to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken. + +We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and +the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may +learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow +and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up +between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod +with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you +plant the next hill--I mean hole--of corn. + +One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and +not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania +roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of +them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at +last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry +home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the +prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles +away up here! + +Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized +sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as +though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out +or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and +now the sea has all gone to grass. + +Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that +I may have a better view. + +"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been +made?" + +"Why, by the action of the wind and water." + +"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense +scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape, +size, and depth." + +Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren +of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well +filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar. + +Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on +the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me +for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and +when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to +some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way, +I will take another ride behind oxen. + +Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for +stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the +maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those +who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did +not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle +were stolen without personal regard for the owner. + +But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some +time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still +committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who +feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose +their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter +from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses +stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their +favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's +bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid +me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more +of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about? + +But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of +other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and +quite inviting after our long ride. + +After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or +_Running Water_. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by, +as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it +empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it +enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide; +but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps +in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses +its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the +Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a +pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a +couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my +satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset +picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for +memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow +stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered +with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years +ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river +bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed +heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills, +and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their +toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by +this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack +"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying: + +"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get +near it." + +It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to +settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the +colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the +land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame +of the colony will people this country by many times the number of +actual settlers it itself will bring. + +Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I +attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet +hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara, +and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on +toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful +valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide, +but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an +interesting picture. + +There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side +of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land +on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are +persuaded to test it. + +The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north +side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more +than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have +sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call +the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also +the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink +flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny +flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only +the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening, +and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was +not; but the leaves convinced me. + +I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the +flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem +to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the +sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be +found about Stuart when I left. + +We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and--"Oh, horror! Mr. +Newell, look out for the red-skins!" + +"Where, Miss Fulton, where?" + +"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire +to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some +sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian +blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare +me scalp." + +Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for +the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in +suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first +chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake +you up. + +But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a +prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted +a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying +to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a +mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the +bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as +though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the +"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies +traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and +all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of +worldly goods along. + +They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation +is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up +government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good +homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the +land for the claiming of it. + +The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I +have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am +not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty +welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner." + + +THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST. + +It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier, +and not tell more of them. + +I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one +whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and +energy, I quote: + + "BREWER, P.O. BROWN CO., NEB., + + "December 23, '83. + + "Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better + satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done + better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled) + per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger + vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40, + wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first + year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it + costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and + windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at + the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use, + a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the + chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight + feet. + + "There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They + charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs, + sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two + and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make + the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own + hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam." + + "The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in + the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September, + and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the + colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for + my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will." + +From another: + + "We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have + some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are + going to have a reunion 16 February." + + "BREWER, Jan., 8. + + "You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been + getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th + December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since + Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken + around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of + years to have schools and plenty of neighbors." + +Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no +sickness reported from climating. + +I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is +a good country for the few of us that came." + +I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the +little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that +have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the +horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have +been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and +lodging a greater number in jail. + +It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to +rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace +and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all +things good! + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri +Valley.--A visit to Ft. Niobrara. + + +I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. & +P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from +Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about. +Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr. +Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by +sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the +Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not +give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of +the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that +neighborhood making it their head-quarters. + +I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for +ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday +evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me +for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we +availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by +daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who +busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck +and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain +with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and +that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no +nothing but prairie. + +There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be +going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we +all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent +braces himself against the stove, and I--well I just shake and laugh. +It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the +agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face +and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that +his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last +Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara +and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't +know when to be thankful, do they? + +Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and +not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that +of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is +prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems +quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade +again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her +head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't +shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the +country. + +Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer. + +The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills +or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine, +where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them +of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to +meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a +walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees +that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen +from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made +haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it +was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see +more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular +passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening +was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested +upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the +company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home +where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I +am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has +repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say: + +"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody." + +The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll" +folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is +silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful +hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from +home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think. + +To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to +Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and +the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my +coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the +depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately. + +But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and +protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I +trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said: + +"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has +always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know +He will not forsake me now." + +Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence, +says: + +"Well, I believe I will go, after all." + +"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the +depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just +rising. + +The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until +our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and +spend Sunday at Long Pine. + +I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat, +fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman +back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman +across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old +mother! + +"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there--well, I scarcely know what that +is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair +of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But +while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a +great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved, +it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you +see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of +gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat +in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our +background. + +Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes +up, and the fatherly old gent rouses. + +"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he +asked. + +"I am a member of the colony," I replied. + +"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they +getting along?" + +I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as +lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial introductions. +But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves us with a +pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be J. Wesley +Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at Valentine, but +says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, and tells +stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The thoughtful man is +Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, who will spend +his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, and this is his +first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister that has been bold +enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; "Is the colony +supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our mission talks of +sending one to them if they would wish it." + +"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching, +as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination +is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no +church and no school house nearer than three miles." + +"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the +people together." + +I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and +their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to +Valentine, and remarked: + +"I gathered some very interesting history from----" + +"Well if you believe all old ---- tells you, you may just believe +everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured +a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and +listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter +recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random, +not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in +testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about +their ears." + +"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to +Valentine," I asked. + +"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort +sake, "no danger of you getting shot, _unless_ by _mere accident_. They +are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never known to insult a +lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when they are on a +spree, they are as _wild_ as _wild_ can be;" with an ominous shake of +his head. + +"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?" + +"Can't say, indeed; _hope not_." + +"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he +could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his +hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and +baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one +lodged that came through the house. + +After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car +to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement +than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the +most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card +with: + +"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the +Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your +courage." + +I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake _Tribune_, +Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked: + +"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be +able to do them as much good as others of more experience could." + +I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would +be among them. Mrs. P. whispered: + +"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?" + +"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing +us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after +sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn +much of Valentine, I know all I care to now." + +The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy--I +could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he +wore--changed the subject with: + +"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no +alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this +railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many +a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a +good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these +sand hills then as there is now." + +Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked: + +"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through +all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look +old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks +all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home." + +Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression; +and I have been judging you so harshly. + +"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to +thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a +good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is +there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the +old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in +heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an +evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and +protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far +beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers +a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while +remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in +fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless +auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in +prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and +goodness, I go and feel I am not _alone_. Had it not been for my +faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey; +but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your +stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look +down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest +to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would +write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had +written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of +Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr. +Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So +gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not +care to sleep, for-- + + Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet, + To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep. + +Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the +Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company. + +It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were +so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills +glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of +silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me +from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating +along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as +though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was +eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to +waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and +put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a +greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but +more interesting from its plainer view. + +It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country +as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door +of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level +grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and +sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely +anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries, +white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath +the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly +bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when +"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to +"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went +to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50 +cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the +depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four +passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered +about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from +it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the +bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon +door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs. +P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself +close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a +protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at +first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a +resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all +quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder. +Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and +soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I +would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down +stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the +fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man, +with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to +him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and +some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed +with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of +revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine +looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than +of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an +improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy +in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long +at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a +better life. + +Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened +expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home. + +One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his +head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face +I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general +favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going +away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know +how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number. +I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone, +excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to +read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your +sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so +often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a +wild misspent life. + +As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not +think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store +and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot. +Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear +banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but +was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to +walk about and see the town. + +The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what +looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray +rocks and pine trees. + +It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost +perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or +Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the +Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that +it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained +of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of +it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the +Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited +sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about +100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is +broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their +steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing +in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small +amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile +wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a +time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which +are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an +interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a +pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which +they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags +are lost to view in their own wanderings." + +Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was +but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the +town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from +Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand +banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy +homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and +two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the +Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and +number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land +office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land +of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about +twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is +not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very +long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known. + +About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and +returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left +there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade +Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest +wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant, +which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in. + +From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be +but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that +direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he +would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better +view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and +then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte +that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around +it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed, +and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over +Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even +extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any +information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that +afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians. + +The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that +was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see +a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"--a block house with +loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort +Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses, +most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square. +The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large, +handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings, +chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc. +Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and +reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the +officers and privates. + +The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under +restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is +punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods, +a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the +buildings are the stables--one for the gray and another for the sorrel +horses--about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules. + +The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small +trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly +termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the +driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that +it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to +duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at +a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are +boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for +driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received +fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their +wives there--and but few are allowed that privilege--do so with the +understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for +the soldiers in return for their own keeping. + +After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the +chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were +kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon +called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D. +entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never +was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time +in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of +interest about me, and my time so limited. + +Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly +consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I +quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the +bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out +of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes. + +Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we +were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs +that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand +and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the +cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched +the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys +in one company, and sorrels in another. + +There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a +post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of +the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could +not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of +soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000 +Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so +disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be +retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole +keeper and support--"Uncle Sam." + +We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest +praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad, +as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my +own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he +spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of +brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn, +known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a +brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good +soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent +death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man +and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is +interesting, I will briefly repeat it: + +Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for +believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and +rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became +known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long +after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort, +and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took +with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they +had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock +fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot +by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to +let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the +confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians, +who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies +under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They +followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under +arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not +allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life--a poor +return for such a one as he had taken. + +He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this +the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker +of his life. + +When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail +was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians +were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let +Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when +Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the +agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted +Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the +wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely +followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave +himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but +has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort +Pierre. + +The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant. + +While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to +return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3 +o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he +immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a +half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And +bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our +way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange +beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short, +yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train +left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough +looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established +by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train. +The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of +ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on +us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we +wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine. +So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a +gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a +couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the +train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a +greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked: + +"Do mules ever run off?" + +"Sometimes they do." + +"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?" + +"No, I guess not." + +And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long +lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train +on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government +mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not +add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the +very worst of mules. + +Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off, +and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and +then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half +miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he +helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train. + +Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood--chips +from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of +our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet +as in the morning. + +I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr. +T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs, +which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large +cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground. +They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the +settling up of the country. + +Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th +meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river. + +When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the +man whom I thought must be a pony boy. + +"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to +travel in only a baggage car!" + +"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back, +and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go." + +Mr. T. remarked: + +"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own +company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the +train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I +will speak to the conductor in your behalf. + +The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor +and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that +I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least +discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt +very much alone. + +"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I +sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I +sang--just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and +songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man +think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then +to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way, +and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was +always answered in the most respectful manner. + +I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a +sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any +one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and +whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely." + +Well, all I got written was: + +Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy +roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high; +river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through +a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom. +Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the +cuts. + +THATCHER, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the train from +their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8×10 deserted store-house +almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, Vegetables, and Eggs," +out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' worth have been sold. +Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin fruit cans are strewn +all around. + +To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level +grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told, +are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now. + +ARABIA, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look. + +WOOD LAKE, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some one +has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is +scarcely a house to be seen. + +JOHNSTOWN, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking on a +better appearance--farm houses dotting the country in every direction. +Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty little town, +a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place again. + +Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach +Long Pine about six o'clock. + +Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I +have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises +and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence. +Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use +of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the +stranger for thinking so wrongly of him. + +Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth: + +Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J. +Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie, +fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south, +and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has +one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber +yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one +restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all +to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a +membership of thirteen. + +I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of +seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its +growth since then. + +Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been +decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated +portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the +people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question. +Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight +Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all +foreigners that go west. + +"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number +of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the +result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation +months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house. + +"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A +bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth. +There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river, +yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand +acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a +continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken. +The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and +the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance. +Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre. + +"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are +still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this +place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter +for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough +for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass. + +"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts. +The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will +give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its +merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per +acre; potatoes, weighing 3-1/2 pounds, and 400 bushels per acre; +cabbage, 22 pounds----" + +This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so +favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort +Niobrara, that he disposed of his _Tribune_ office, and returned, +and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken, +and located at Ainsworth. + +I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of +later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's +stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking. + +You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in +preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services +in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One +saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the +saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but +did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the +stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet +with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who +join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt +there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry +(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many +of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are +runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting +stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and +the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who +remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer +in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are +spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for +a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in +looking." + + +LONG PINE. + +After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek +of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery +and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there +could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of +nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired +early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this +hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests +the better for its absence. + +The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long +Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself +started early for the bridge. + +It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it +is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view +by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine +trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the +table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among +the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct +springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream +below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep +pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away, +and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs, +and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara. +We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can +south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the +trees loftier. + +It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to +grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge +and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross +the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and +branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the +springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on +a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water, +and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view +the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so +romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's +winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up +by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on +until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold +wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering +Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow +pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge +and beyond we went, following down the stream. + +Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so +grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania +hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from +twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand +and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials, +and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs. + +Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the +pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back +from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear +conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no +less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too, +preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever +since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post +until the end. + +But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where +a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H. +stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon +a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of +the distance that lay between me and home came before me. + +"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought, +but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that +is all powerful in every hour and need. + +Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come +from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native +state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large +double log house on the banks of the Pine--a very pretty spot they +claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and +said: + +"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go +to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see +some one from home, it would almost cure me!" + +It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh, +Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us +of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black +Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the +few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath +School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a +neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had +been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering. +And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call. + +We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their +home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not +allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and +promised to spend Monday with them. + +We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E. +services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas. + +_Monday_--Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the +Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of +all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are +leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek, +"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs +are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these +cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size. + +Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and +"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a +wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was +explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in +the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her +trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word, +"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only +did our duty." + +We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was +so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can +and will care for his children when they call upon him. + + +MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY. + +"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the +spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health, +but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the +Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched +our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where +Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days, +when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the +other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves +that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after +asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little +house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and +perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the +river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards. + +The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the +Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the +ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the +men, left as soon as his duty was performed. + +About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of +Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to +Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented +that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of +which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife +strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself--and at that time +sick--signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to +sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them. + +He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far +until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding +him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead. + +This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the +shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our +tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison +house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by +a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with +crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their +leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other, +with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render +him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a +worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and +would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our +tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put +his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the +hill and entreated those who came to turn back. + +When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon +came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we +were not again disturbed. + +Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha +for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest +but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the +tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the +long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant +action. + +Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for +fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply +of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the +man, and morning came and found him still living. + +Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that +our children were safe. + +Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he +very badly needed. + +After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men, +friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of +Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were +his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with +their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as +guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver. + +Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him +to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when +they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to +land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I +was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on +to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we +had pursued. + +The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles +away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to +depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated +through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if +Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and +warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save +ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take +whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that +our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we +had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with +us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come +again, and urged me to go with her to her home. + +"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you _must not_ leave me!" and then the +thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her own life +for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone. + +When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could +not refrain from singing, + + "Through this changing world below, + Lead me gently, gently, as I go; + Trusting Thee, I cannot stray, + I can never, never lose my way." + +And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over +the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came +upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst +you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper, +"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against +thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but +greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though +surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R. +came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home +she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own +safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all +dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain. + +Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the +appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting +and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday. + +On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a +prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do +hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for +he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old. + +(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of +his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all +his bad deeds behind.) + +Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death +blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we +did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton. + +We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles +further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five +hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only +remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we +could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the +frontier again. + +In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never +experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for +a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they +would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their +revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was +done to assure me that I was safe at their hands. + + +I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I +repeat only truth. + +And now to her collection of curiosities--but can only mention a few: +One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two +feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed +the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they +left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had +been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of +which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in +circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the +point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white, +and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered +from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors. +As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to +a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did +not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking. + +It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But +what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our +guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me +with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities. + +There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be +persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet +had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the +beaver with only their four front teeth. + +The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine, +cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of +a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal +of lumber. + +Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he +was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in +April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular +services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown, +Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all. + +Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing +between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the +spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora +Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak +and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr. +S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state, +and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my +newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but, +best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat." + +But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the +beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in +June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H. +Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and +pitched a boarding tent, 14×16, from which they fed the workmen on the +railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was +followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now +there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one +drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant. +Population 175. + +From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean +the following: + +"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you +visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put +up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22×86, ten +two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of +both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved +into their 20×40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second +story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's +hardware, where also religious services are regularly held. +Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree. +The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is +proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting +in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a +saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine, +three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing +pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty +bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato +raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured +twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half +short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of +north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast +disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of +what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back +from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles. + +"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for +nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber +culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded +lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been +taken up during the past year. + +"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our +county, and find as follows: + +"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters +to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters. +Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it +will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead, +pre-emption, and timber culture laws. + +"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen +miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across +the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter." + +From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country +well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county +is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average +favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further +developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be +a good producing soil." + +Water is good and easily obtained. + +The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the +creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around +on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a +distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long +Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery. + +The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are +of a clear, white sand. + +But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has +been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be +eastward bound. + +Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back +from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on +the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new +merchant just opening a store near the colony. + +Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so +pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the +cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were +drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he +and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very +unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a +ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better +life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole +use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to +lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift +given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone +would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat; +so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep. + +How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs. +Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back." + +Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219 +miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry +brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to +themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of +the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two +occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first +train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter +Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on +the south. + +Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up +of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new, +rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first, +until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere. + +But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of +Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is +permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then +the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty. + +So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.), +which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general +stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm +implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and +blacksmith shop, and a bank. + +Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was +visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on +the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has +here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of +April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out +from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and +shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the +story of the first chapter. + +Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I +have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that +the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very +appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C." + +From The Stuart _Ledger_ we quote: The Methodists have organized +with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the +building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev. +Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson +is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of +Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24×42, where over +60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss +Mamie Woods. An opera house 22×60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's +building, 18×24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist, +and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will +close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received +from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24: +"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two +months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come +in their 'schooners.' + +"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three +feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly +enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December." + +But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion"; +of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as +satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe +its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape, +and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets, +closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth, +and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your +satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full +length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want +to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and +was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can +be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel; +and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all +I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists, +and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing +"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart. + +The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr. +Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family. +Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard. + +Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the +following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place: +"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two +hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a +population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine +month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about +$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson _Graphic_, +several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention. +Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about +500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county +during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa, +though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles +east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last +March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday +school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can +be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by +next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily +obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton." + +I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded +coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114 +miles, to attend Robinson's circus--but shows are a rarity here. The +light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding +country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling +prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there +settlers' homes with their culture of timber. + +O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians, +and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt +county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches, +Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It has +three papers, The _Frontier_, Holt County _Banner_, both republican, +and O'Neill _Tribune_, Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a +mile from the river. Gen. O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha. + +Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the +Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this +point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was +completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college +located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81. +U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83. +County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a +private enterprise by the citizens. + +I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also +given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless +to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well +represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will +bring into a western town. + +To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much +that has already been said of others, and the story of their added +years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of +to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further? + +The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright, +new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost +weaving high. + +It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as +we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties. + +That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road +to Missouri Valley--its starting point--and for this we have Mr. J. R. +Buchanan for authority. + +There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of +the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in +1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New +Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road. +Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was +worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population; +is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the +vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no +superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of +wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn. +Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre, +now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00. + +The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached +Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about +100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad +was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the +direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black +Hills. + +As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it +will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri +river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the +channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until +the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000 +feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments +built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the +river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over +$1,000,000. + +But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must +leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.--A +description of the great Platte Valley. + + +I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a +depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to +putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master +until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge +storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to +remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act +of kindness shown me already. + +At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket +agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road, +which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am +glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed +at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer. +Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot." + +"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the +telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could +not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of +colonizing on the frontier." + +"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have +been inquiring for you--but you must stop on your return and see the +beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you." + +Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was +not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were +thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to +see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was +almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden. +I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded +westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn. + +The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren +of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is +lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied +and much under cultivation. + +I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the +railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its +amber light, making it a beautiful sight. + +Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from +an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles +wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and +hindered all further sight-seeing. + +The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out +of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares, +"It is just good for him--no business to let the man get his hand on +his money!" + +"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the +conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat, +assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the +old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to +protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the +conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss." + +I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour +would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot, +but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me +with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!" + +We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our +letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity +and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found +Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me. + +To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo +Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and +trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning +much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we +found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a +long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from +the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters: +Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black +hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color +and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet +teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is +taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but +delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features +and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet +of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young. + +It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate +as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and +the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void +the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed +enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with +his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has +always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him. + +To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the +"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the +following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill." + +His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport, +Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport. +Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature +from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at +Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was +occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on +reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to +California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers +and Mormons. + +Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their +language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance +and shoot with bow and arrow. + +In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that +had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery +man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a +burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he +died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for +burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of +armed men came to take the life that had just gone out. + +Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing +service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first +blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl +sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and +thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and +took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him +from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely +forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the +employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty +being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City +to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the +Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of +the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great +freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity +of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train +consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a +railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of +transportation beyond the states. + +It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his +first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a +party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the +cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing +several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from +the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the +creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first +shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young +as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has +since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage +driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government, +which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very +best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa +Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature +in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his +exhibitions on the stage. + +When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of, +they just call it buffalo ---- and as a consequence, there are buffalo +gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss, +grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when +he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the +Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day. + +I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the +country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn +of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost +every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta +and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln +county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the +sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte +rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December, +1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the +town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had +to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars. + +North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business +houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land +office of the western district embraces the government land of +Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and +Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the +surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as +stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is +quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are +fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but +those which have been cultivated. + +Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of +the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and +painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited +to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door +six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without +ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens +and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were +discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room, +thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how +they would enjoy it. + +"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests, +but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed +the joke." + +Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was +abandoned four years ago. + +Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to +be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot, +I left Monday evening for Plum Creek. + +How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and +whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of +adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about +their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the +lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away. + +I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the +east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do +better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken +mother. + +"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us +on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester, +N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave +lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last +summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I +die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for +the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more +than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely +child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'" + +Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been +interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady +from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how +they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not +be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never +been without a snow-cap since she first saw them. + +Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to +meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we +preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the +gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston +House. + +I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania +about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum +creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the +little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming +Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum +Creek. + +Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to +Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April, +1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still +holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station +house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he +built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present +town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one +mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile +further west. + +Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County _Pioneer_, +of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history: + +"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the +organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71, +at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the +entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told. +But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous +people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated +March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the +Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point. + +"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs +affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians. + +"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte +river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was +celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of +Columbus. + +"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the +churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their +religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the +Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of +'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the +county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev. +Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in +'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the +Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian +congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary. + +"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and +far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska +colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under +charge of F. J. Pearson. + +"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their +first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the +U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses." + +I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor _Pioneer_, whom I +questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained have +done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther west, +until there is not many of us left; only about eight families that are +now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by the +grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was very +discouraging." + +I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove +their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be +driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe. + +"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the +treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of +light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after +they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose +mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal, +seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west +of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which +two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still +living." + +Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel +in a 16×20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men, +who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they +could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is +now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek. + +While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact +some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked-- + +"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him +how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I +can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?' +No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married. +He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take +you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John +Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a +family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania. + +The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even +this opportunity to get to my friends. + +Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white +with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of +it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the +bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph +Butterbaugh--our old neighbor--coming to town, and who was greatly +surprised, as they had not received my letter. + +We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and +sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces, +just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along +the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to +our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely +improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others +where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod +houses). + +Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one +herd, making it dangerous for travelers. + +Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house +built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any +lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are +built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building +of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then +built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the +summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a +good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for +sheep. + +Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box +nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and +receives the mail. + +Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad +land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for +pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod. + +Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8×10 frame, where +the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for +holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in. + +It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the +stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon +us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in +my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I +know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily +sang: + + "I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild, + And feel that my mother now thinks of her child, + As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door, + Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more." + +I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined +by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and +together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I +sing with more emphasis than-- + + "Oh give me back my native hills, + Rough, rugged though they be, + No other land, no other clime + Is half so dear to me." + +But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in +the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying: + +"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and +sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I +don't think I have tried to sing it since." + +All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I +thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes +down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until +it echoed from bluff to bluff. + +But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr. +A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the +morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr. +A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her. + +Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with +me on that morning ride. + +Rough? + +There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some +things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt, +as that horse _tried_ to trot--perhaps it was my poke hat that was +coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted +Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot. + +When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go +three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast. + +"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow: +mind, we don't want to be going round many corners." + +"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you; +can you stand another trot?" + +And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and +laugh at my attempt at riding. + +It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's +sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered--"Breakfast +for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill +into a "grand gallop." + +Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my +laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the +door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the +laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after +all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one. +Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the +river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded +away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie, +bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old +friends. + +We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs +and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the _swing_ very +much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a +half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to +come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To +peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight +to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of +one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the +Platte river three miles away--the river a mile in width, and the wide +valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The +U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the +trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the +east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes +Cozad, Willow Island--almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first +house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add +the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83: + +Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five +families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to +be more than doubled by spring. + +But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after +wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight +until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills +and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or +pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a +river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and +are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call +calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They +seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed +with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how æsthetic we have +grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect--would much +rather look at the deer tracks. + +The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and +cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all +taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain +cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun +with grape-vines. + +Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring +it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor +fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower? +But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown +doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt +bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I +returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very +deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not +touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so +lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it--well, he didn't catch the +rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun. + +_Sunday._ We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and +Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with +Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner +time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen--only a few +willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected +from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a +garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest +flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms +same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is +not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk? + +The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the +widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the +north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of +the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water +is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the +table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we +heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?" +I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a +boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing +if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that +pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves +of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width, +and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of +everything but grass. + +The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting +of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that +rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the +North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the +north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It +has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and +rapid--running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and +changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its +brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under +ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican +river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than +the Platte. + +We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of +our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound +train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have +described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our +colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought +large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the +Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give +depth of soil and its production, but will add the following: + +Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels +wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30; +and barley about 40 bushels per acre. + +First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of +December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was +108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below, +which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as +high as 36 above since. + +The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. & +M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R. + +In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the +same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county. +First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in +'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list +shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north +side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160 +miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in +'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that +time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and +bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a +canal to utilize the waters of the Platte. + +Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that +hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar, +maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont, +named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842 +and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed +but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and +silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river +and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his +mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large +and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated +at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but +now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches. +It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must +add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any +sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for +some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near +the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are +entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun. + +I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along +the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance +as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha +about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had +breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt +Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R. +land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well. + +Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha +Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was +made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been +ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska +shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the +present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a +homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was +founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied +across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge +completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the +first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten +dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha, +and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill. + +The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected +for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton, +Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa +shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the +Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to +make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren +plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet +above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water +tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis. +It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha +now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's +principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient. + +I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and +as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln, +about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master, +and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed +to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington +House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my +friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman +to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and +that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homoeopathic +physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners +live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania. +But a better thought came--that of the Baptist minister, as they +attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and +through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a +long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your +friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us +to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his +kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin +Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather +long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met. +"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if +you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile +walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City +Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I +have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find +the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood +waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln +in my walking up and down--at least all I cared to. But the welcome +"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the +kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its +unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I +was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own +garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling +stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing +but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia +Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of +finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie, +you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in +Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor." + +And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing +this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska. +Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty +miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction, +in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which +connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was +the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is +4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J. +W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company +yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where +some government land is yet to be had. + +A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln, +Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April +24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have +gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in +unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty +acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan, +in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying +their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land +within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all +government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest +fit only for grazing. + +This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on +Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with +much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue." + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return via +Hastings.--A description of the Republican and Blue Valleys.--The +Saratoga of Nebraska. + + +We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making +point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for +"Danger"--danger of it biting me or getting away--my prairie dog, which +had found a home in a barrel. + +One evening Cousin Andy said: + +"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?" + +"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they +make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that +reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering +the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in +the side told the story. + +I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price +for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a +Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him. + +The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor +table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found +him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know +just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with +heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but +by morning the ground would be in good working order. + +Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for +several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county +field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving +their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now +earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation. + +When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was +entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so +completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob +Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built +railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the +way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in +the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres, +and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers +until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads, +settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has +an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon. + +I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent +of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and +while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the +third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central +Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska. + +After a few moments conversation, he asked: + +"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?" + +"Indiana county." + +"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is +dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me +all kindness and interest. + +At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of +his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same +kindness and attention that every one does at his hands. + +"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern +Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that +truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then +seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends +and more of the state. + +A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face +was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me +she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not +expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last. + +Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience: +I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three +months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word +of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my +young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously +ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her +off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that +she might find her brother better. + +The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my +eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect +snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression +from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but +that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention +by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold +and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little +ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just +as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look +as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first +foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a +settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely +together as possible. + +I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I +had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked: + +"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?" + +"Yes, sir." + +"To Mr. Fulton's?" + +"Why, yes. You know my friends then?" + +"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew +where you were going." + +No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but +then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are +different people. + +"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed +at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was +the one she had expected." + +"You know where they live then?" + +"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you +to the house." + +With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to +his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when +I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous +week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my +Uncle's door. + +"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around +me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often. + +"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to +go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought +you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us +yesterday." + +"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the +depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just +when I am given up for good." + +Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his +motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over, +Aunt said: + +"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!" + +"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?" + +"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?" + +"No, not a word." + +"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about +now." + +"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then +I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps +already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of +what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God +in His great loving kindness is sparing us! + +I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle +John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same +village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the +year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the +saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and +baby Ruth, with malaria fever. + +To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs--a +town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the +banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great +volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber--honey locust, elm, +box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees +and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches +in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska, +and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long. + +I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to +us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just +as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among +the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers +of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says: + +"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in +this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J. +H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first +surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were +Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek +is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs. + +"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among +us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had +been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the +first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the +Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only +three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers. +Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of +flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them +quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a +sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed +to a post for everybody to use. + +"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two +months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell +everybody else to come. And come they did--walking, riding in ox +wagons, and any way at all--until in all there was 150 of us. The +ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress +in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the +dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn +dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn. +The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We +sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers +with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some +war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight. +Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind. +So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all +summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow +bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and--well, that corn +money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500 +bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as +this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160 +acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for +$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000. + +"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together +in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us +prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle +to the Otoe Indians on the reservation. + +"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor +pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the +field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with +their ponies. + +"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from +Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week +from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars +a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody +went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission +Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday +morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80. + +"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and +surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life +we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted +me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't +see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out +to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how +much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on +the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody +calls me 'Pap Tyler.'" + +I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the +Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom +of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were +about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old +ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not +that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a +country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the +people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated +man. I marked him--fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the +state. The programme of the day was as follows: + + SONG--_The Red, White, and Blue_. + + DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE--Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of + twelve years. + + SONG--_Night Before the Battle_. + + TOAST--_Our Schools_. Responded to by J. C. Burch. + + TOAST--_Our Railroads_. Rev. J. M. Pryse. + + MUSIC--By the band. + + TOAST--_Our Neighbors_. Rev. E. H. Burrington. + +Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and +with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their +dinners. + +Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat +my dinner under the flag with a stain--a rebel flag of eleven stars and +three stripes--a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast. + +In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom +tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the +celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works. + + +WYMORE + +Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost +an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the +spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the +ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640 +acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here +sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed. + +One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little +shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built +homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you +what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat +Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall, +Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of +their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising +western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on +Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The +heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a +feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool +and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon +almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush, +or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day." + +It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will +shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake. + +The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is +a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but +one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and +south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two +miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it +with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary. + +Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue +on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six +miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another +creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800, +on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and +west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the +agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at +the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied. + +A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency." +It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the +30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a +"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I +felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so +desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting +posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the +head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and +hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little +ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy +hunting-ground." + +This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other +tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new +home in the Indian Territory. + +The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in +places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see +Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun +was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska +breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until +the stars were shining. + +For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw +working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached +to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and +the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans; +minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking +these days when it says 100° in the shade, cool, and if you can't take +them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not +do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled +over and broke the bulb. + +There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came +in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a +cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or +two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and +shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner +of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie +and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 P.M. +train, July 5th. + +I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all +crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such +a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these +dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as +though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and +friends. + +Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and +nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and +now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy +meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of +the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along: + + +ODELL, + +A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet +well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent +the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the +Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins +hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's +planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with +bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark +muddy water that covers the bottom. + + +DILLER, + +A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing +platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and +grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is +running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes. + + +INDIAN CREEK. + +Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now +just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill +killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they +were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for +thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly +defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his +hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill +from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer +used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians, +and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The +stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place, +and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at + + +ENDICOTT, + +A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the +centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing +through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear +door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all. + + +REYNOLDS, + +A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good +homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so +good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the +hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in +bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is +running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why +Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the +left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I +do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence. +Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor +looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of +cattle grazing. + + +HUBBELL. + +Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power; +only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall +wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county, +which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of +Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have +since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five, +wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in +this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in +hand, and was referred to ---- ---- for information, who asked-- + +"Are you writing for the _Inter Ocean_?" + +"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied. + +"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a +lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their +publication." + +I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work. + +We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls +county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old +schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking +since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me +to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard +some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand, +gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just +beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that +points its spire heavenward through his labors. + +The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all +the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the +friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three +little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the +beauties of the "Garden of the West." + +The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we +cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling, +and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land, +with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The +prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our +portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower. +While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a +faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier. +They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves +sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing. + +Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to +think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these +great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a +weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is +almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make +one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of +black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with +Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some +years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk +house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a +wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs +when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in +any direction. + +I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky +waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and +go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay +with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one +who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have +you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I +was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I +_must_ go, and sunset saw me off. + +All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge +I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough--sandy bed and banks, +trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there +only in wet weather. + +I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles +north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for +several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean +passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks +of the Republican. + +So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will +know what they are. + + +SUPERIOR + +Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The +Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not +catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I +thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not +understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much +emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on +the beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains +he has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I _just love_ +to go fossiling! Don't you _love_ to go fossiling, Miss?" + +"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know +it is just too _lovely_ for _anything_." + +It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern +people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not +tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers, +and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I +went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next +morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine +and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on +all of the three railroads. + +I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have +always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive, +and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his +engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great +throbbing heart of the Centennial--the Corliss engine, excited my +admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the +Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore +with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and +all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned +to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at +Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a +ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long +wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the +fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the +window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that +amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a +minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my +impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was +there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I +appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola. + +"Fourteen miles," was the reply. + +Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the +engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a +bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and +let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the +wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place. +When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they +had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen +minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as +he did so, asked: + +"Well, did they go pretty fast?" + +"I don't know, did they?" I replied. + +I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at +McCook. + +After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the +seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the +railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the +little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a +population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks +of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of +the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up +with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place +I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford, +Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first +house was built in June, '82. + +I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of +the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is +seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the +appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame +house, build one that will look well at a distance. + +Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried +from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and +located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at +a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook +_Tribune_, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then +in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near +which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed +through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained +from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as +has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained, +and brick is cheaper than in the east. + +From a copy of the Daily _Tribune_, I read a long list of business +firms and professional cards, and finished with, "_no saloons_." + +The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics +worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given +the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called +upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from +home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the +east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the +east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook. +I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the +Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She +told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the +ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general. + +"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found +in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few +days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can +and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an +engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without +seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this +road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness +that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to +point out all that was of interest, along the way." + +The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops, +with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken +claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought +80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the +homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough +to go into stock-raising. + +This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western +part of Hitchcock county. + +Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight +counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The +40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the +Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is +easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well +sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south. +These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood, +and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly +populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone, +the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty +of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and +will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go. + +A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado, +are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand, +and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side +and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by +the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was. + +The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond +lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does +not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars +in all shapes and little islands of green--there it winds to the south +and is lost to sight--herds of cattle--corn field--river again with +willow fringed bank--cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand, +or they would not be there long--river gone again--tall willow +grove--wire fencing--creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width. +Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles +long, and cattle grazing in it--all fenced in until we reach + + +INDIANOLA, + +one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was +surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was +slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400 +inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses' +from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and +school house--great herd of cattle--wilderness of sunflowers turning +their bright faces to the sun--now nothing but grass--corral made of +logs--corn and potatoes--out of the old sod into the nice new +frame--river beautifully wooded--valley about four miles wide from +bluff to bluff--dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at +home--board fence. + + +CAMBRIDGE. + +Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring +mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose +shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple +shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers. + +Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo +wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good. + + +ARAPAHOE. + +Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and +bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on +their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern +point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty +miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that +neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are +two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was +platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in +sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them! +didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in +very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream +no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its +banks. River close; trees--there, it and the trees are both gone south. +Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain. + + +OXFORD. + +Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north; +town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a +Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for +mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and +cattle, cattle--What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out +west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan +county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small +towns, but will not be so long. + +Here we are at + + +ORLEANS. + +A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the +north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before +me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her +company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream +called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which +the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the +town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and +for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their +right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles +east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400 +of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county +seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its +interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land. +Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land; +large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old +sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt. + + +ALMA. + +Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the +table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the +county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town. + +That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near +Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the +interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her +fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only +passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove +the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other +talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk. + + +REPUBLICAN CITY. + +Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400. +Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would +be more plenty. + + +NAPONEE. + +Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in +sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery. + +BLOOMINGTON--the "Highland City"--the county seat of Franklin county, +and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful valley, +nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public buildings, +and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian churches, a large +Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, a large creamery, +and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians are excellent +judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch of country, +although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The Pawnees were +the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I do not wonder +that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown into a grand +possession for their white brothers. + +I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half +and use a dash for the rest of the words cor--, pota--, bush--, tre--, +riv--. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that +wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a +good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it +came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre-- or bus--; +well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive +roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the +river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have +ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for +awhile, and just then you haven't. + +But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at FRANKLIN, a real +good solid town. First house built July, 1879. I never can guess how +many people live in a town by looking at it from a car window. How do I +know how many there are at work in the creamery, flouring mill, and +woolen factory? And how many pupils are studying in the Franklin +Academy, a fine two-story building erected by the Republican Valley +Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? First term opened Dec. +6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is $12,000, and they +propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and seven students have +been enrolled during the present term. And how many little boys and +girls in the common school building? or how many are in their nicely +painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and dug-outs in +the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of the ground? It +takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds of houses to +make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, oats, millet, +broom corn, and all _sich_--good all the way along this valley. + + +RIVERTON. + +A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in +ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M. +Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to +$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great +fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now; +there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of +the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the +Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it +brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the +bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes" +and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One +minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as +though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a +direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile. +Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has +stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed! +Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles +away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call + + +RED CLOUD! + +Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud, +I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams +were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I +stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad; +first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that +hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my +foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new +moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the +Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking +up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a +rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last +came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes +into a silent prayer: + +"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!" + +I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage, +enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me +into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant +lady, and soon I was listening to the following story: + +"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers, +and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which +much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other +settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several +settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently +visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for +taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people +stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of +logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first +winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in +the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this +spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but +was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on +the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and +as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also +plenty of elk, antelope, and deer. + +"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in +my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes +polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the +summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer +county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72, +and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe." + +The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told +of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I +could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he +is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo +meat hung to the ceiling, and added: + +"I spent many a happy day there." + +Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving +well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a +dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden +even by the most humble abode. + +The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same +as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and +have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's +children. + +When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said: + +"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as +Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness, +for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in +the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days +and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery--her native +state. + +The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing +the surrounding beauties of their home. + +"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years +ago--fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some +think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while +Mrs. G. says: + +"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if +I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in +the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and +phaeton to take me to the depot. + +Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming +and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large +photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more +of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14×16 +hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out: + +"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good +home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud, +which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for +their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over +sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100 +miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their +groceries. + +As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from +centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which +Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had +made that he paid for in years of service to his country. + +When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450 +inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the +B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster +county, and surrounded by a rich country--need I add more? + + +AMBOY. + +A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with +bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short. + + +COWLES. + +Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to +be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I +feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling +to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another +how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic +thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will +cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he +wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more +than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes +and groves of trees. + + +BLUE HILL. + +A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that +blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy +life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers +with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by +only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and +smiles upon me even here. + + Bloom, little flower, all the way along, + Sing to us travelers your own quiet song, + Speak to us softly, gently, and low, + Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know? + +Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick. + +This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it +so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of +trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of +the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist. + + +AYR + +Was but a small town, so we go on to HASTINGS, a town of over 5,000 +inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six miles +west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The B. & +M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it was not +a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. Joe & +Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point in the +following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W. +Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors +of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same year, +the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, the +salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the state +for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is nicely +built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from fires. I +notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep here. The +surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking good. + +Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are +all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all. +I notice the churches are well attended. + +A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and, +as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better +my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken +stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that +condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I +cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good +young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was +intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any +one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such +a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as +this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he +passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all +for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most +insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is +Sunday. + + +CRETE. + +Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue +river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant, +shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy +retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre +of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds +of the N.S.S.A.A. + + +LINCOLN. + +Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to +watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when +I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking +through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind +upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I +didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he +had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am +only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him +I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for +me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my +friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I +thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had +a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on. +After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one +of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them +another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as +they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday. + +_Monday._ Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without +it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your +baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about +it." + +"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for +this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had." +"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would +replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and +button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will +never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never +replace. No, I _must_ not lose it!" And then I stole away and went +to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that +help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and +as I prayed this lesson came to me--How alarmed I am over the loss of a +little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when +so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and +each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read +and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things. +And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten. + +I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good, +nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would +just take a good cry over it, and--but won't I hug my dusty satchels if +I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I +supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for +me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own. + +So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie +took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the +nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so +slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But +I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a +minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the +depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble, +but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the +faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I +turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage, +little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my +fan. "Oh dear, I am _so_ glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my +satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to +give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting +attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch +my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to +do better.--I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a +thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the +Republican valley, and then about my baggage. + +"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?" + +"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old +lady, and must go and see to it." + +When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both +gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked: + +"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?" + +"Nothing; I did not know you had found it." + +Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said: + +"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to." + +"The conductor carried it away." + +"Where did he go to?" + +"I don't know, Miss." + +Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought. + +"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had +followed me. "What's gone?" + +"Why, my baggage; it's gone again." + +"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in +here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov. +Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all +carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad, +and a good lesson learned. + +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at +Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July +20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this +table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under +the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are +as follows: + + Pacific Junction to Kearney 196 + + Omaha line 17 + + Nebraska City to Central City 150 + + Nebraska City to Beatrice 92 + + Atchison to Columbus 221 + + Crete to Red Cloud 150 + + Table Rock to Wymore 38 + + Hastings to Culbertson 171 + + Denver Extension 244 + + Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford 77 + + Chester to Hebron 12 + + DeWitt to West Line 25 + + Odell to Washington, Kan. 26 + + Nemaha to Salem 18 + +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the +C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous +"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between +Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management, +tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are +entirely avoided. + +P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at +the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent, +while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R. +Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct +all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His +thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having +spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for +this office. + + +MILFORD. + +"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue" +river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of +thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and +sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr. +Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I +was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs. +Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who +located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in +'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by +the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town +that afterward grew up about him. + +Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made +very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land +of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through +the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers +and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the +common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due +west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr. +Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is +now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies. +Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes +and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a +log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A +saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at +hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his +flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none +other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of +the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs. +Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from +her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were +competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and +I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest." + +Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a +broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away +captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was +very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it. + +In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies +high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then +winding down canyon Seata, _little_ canyon, we crossed the River to the +Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, hickory, +and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines--one we +measured being sixteen inches in circumference--while a cottonwood +measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor +where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the +Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its +shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But +pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling +Springs." + +Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring +flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay +into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes, +but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened +rock. + +The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine +for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the +running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house +in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in +'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and +gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley _Record_." +Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the "_Congregational News_" +in '78. + +The "Milford _Ozone_" is the leading organ of the day, so named for the +health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy. + +A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as +postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via +Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J. +H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was +established. + +The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a +large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of +300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross +the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a +view of the new town of EAST MILFORD laid out on an eighty acre plot +that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It is a +private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly +favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of +the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside +home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot +and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet +found in Nebraska. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL. + + +Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived +from the Indian _ne_ (water) and _bras_ (shallow), and means shallow +water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to 208 from +north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that lie between +parallels 40° and 43° north latitude, and 18° and 27° west longitude. + +The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the +original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only +herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854, +"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made +it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for +its motto "_Equality before the Law_." + +The governors of Nebraska territory were: + + Francis Burt, 1854. + T. B. Cuming, 1854-5. + Mark W. Izard, 1855-8. + W. A. Richardson, 1858. + J. S. Morton, 1858-9. + Samuel W. Black, 1859-61. + Alvin Saunders, 1861-6. + David Butler, 1866-7. + +Of the state-- + + David Butler, 1867-71. + William H. James, 1871-3. + Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5. + Silas Garber, 1875-9. + Albinus Nance, 1879-83. + James W. Dawes, 1883. + +Allow me to quote from the _Centennial Gazetteer of United States_: + +"SURFACE.--Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends along +the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down toward +the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. There are +no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed mountains. +The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous loam, which +is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in deeply eroded +valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest fertility, +which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, ash, and +other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. Late surveys +establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom lands is from +13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres. + +"THE CLIMATE of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of other +states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The mean +annual temperature varies from 47° in the northern sections to 57° in +the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part of +the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the westerly +winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress the +thermometer to 20° and sometimes 30° below zero; while in the summer a +temperature of 100° and over is not unusual. In the southern tier of +counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76-1/4°, and of winter, +30-1/2°. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 inches) +falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall steadily +decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the western +counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the state. + +"POPULATION.--Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and in 1870, +122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, including +18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population numbered +30,748. + +"EDUCATION.--Nebraska has more organized schools, more school houses, +and those of a superior character; more money invested in buildings, +books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the same age. +The land endowed for the public schools embraces one-eighteenth of the +entire area of the state--2,623,080 acres." The school lands are sold +at not less than seven dollars per acre, which will yield a fund of not +less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from six to ten per cent +interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. The principal is +invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished while the +interest and income alone is used. + +The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly +supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable +and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in +Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the +Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength. +The Catholic church is fully represented. + +The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest +percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second. +Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania: + +Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write; +Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write. +Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891. + +Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United +States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of +the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at +the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its +salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the +air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low +temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong, +cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but +17°, and of the summer 70°. + +I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in +general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern +people. + +Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not +accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year--since +which time there has been rapid developments--will speak volumes for +the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union. + +The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an +increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828 +in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933 +to 452,542, nearly four-fold. + +The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its +capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a +population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square +mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a +population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would +have 17,480,000 people. + +The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874 +to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per +year. In 1883 there was raised in the state: + + Wheat 27,481,300. + Corn 101,276,000. + Oats 21,630,000. + +Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has +prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up +to Nov. 13, 1883: + + Corn, yield per acre 41 bushels. + Quality 85 per cent. + Potatoes, Irish 147 bushels. + Quality 109 per cent. + Potatoes, sweet 114 bushels. + Quality 111 per cent. + Hay, average tame and wild 2 tons per a. + Quality 107 per cent. + Sorghum, yield per acre 119 gallons. + Grapes, yield and quality 88 per cent. + Apples, yield and quality 97 per cent. + Pears, yield and quality 52 per cent. + Condition of orchards 100 per cent. + Spring wheat threshed at date 82 per cent. + +Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for +market, Dec. 1. + +In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a +total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised +annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and +250,000 sheep. + +The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring +the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000 +inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into +the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor +dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done +by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence. + +During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven +intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the +least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the +state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a +population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska. + +I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women. + +"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own +at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or +proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall +come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her +husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall +remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage, +and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for +his debts. + +"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt +contracted by the wife before marriage." + +The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail +transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two +years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was +about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations +were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft. +Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.; +Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers +left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month; +carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two +years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from +St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in +sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now +Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad. + +I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising +people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that +enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new +country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after +while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of +ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west +by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a +strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to +learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept +and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear +great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the +forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their +children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has +furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good +idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day, +and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general +hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska +could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children. + + +LINCOLN. + +In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at +Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of +State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and +locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present +_capital_ site was chosen--then a wild waste of grasses, where a few +scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that +once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster +post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the +Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide" +between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and +broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public +buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom +Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state, +a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and +founded a paper town and called it Lancaster. + +The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was +as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the +state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all +the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the +commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the +summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer, +which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few +and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale +of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he +received his wages--$300--he remarked that he would not give his pay +for the whole town site. + +The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100 +houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67, +but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in +January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was +realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State +University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all +other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold. + +The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The +post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national +government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were +reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot +is a large brick building 183×53 and three stories high, with lunch +room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room, +and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices +on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily +carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway +accommodations. + +All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were +given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature, +which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was +organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman +Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69; +Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A +number have since been added. + +THE STATE JOURNAL CO. On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day following the +announcement that Lancaster was _the place_ for the capital site there +appeared in the _Nebraska City Press_ a prospectus for the publication +of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be called the _Nebraska +Commonwealth_, C. H. Gere, Editor. But not until the latter part of +Nov. did it have an established office in the new city. In the spring +of '69 the _Commonwealth_ was changed to the Nebraska _State Journal_. +As a daily it was first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B. +& M.R.R. ran its first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage +coaches that had been the only means of transportation to the capital. +In '82 the State Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new +building on the corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and +brick, four stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The +officers are C. H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R. +Clark, Sec., and H. D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125 +hands. Beside the _Journal_ are the _Democrat_ and _News_, daily; the +_Nebraska Farmer_, semi-monthly; the _Capital_, weekly; the _Hesperian +Student_, monthly, published by the students of the University, and the +_Staats Anzeiger_, a German paper, issued weekly. + +On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G +street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and +spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But +Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in +that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and +about Lincoln. + +Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of +convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who +had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act. +Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready +to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good +behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step +beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all +the departments--the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where +brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot +mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and +stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at +the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of +stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a +prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4×7 feet, and furnished +with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to +write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what +they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read +before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom +are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their +cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals +together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives +and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly +to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the +wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation. +Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each +other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not +even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow +neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until +seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two +or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a +privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general +hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at +nine A.M., they are marched in close file to the chapel, where Rev. +Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and New York, +gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and Him +Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian +doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within +prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of +their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's +daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are +readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the +dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his +services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars, +the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron +door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs, +and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on +the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left. +They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to +see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and +there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked +into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I +have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to +me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will always +be watching to see what good men and women you make; great +philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good +ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice, +honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President +sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your +name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll +be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their +innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised +to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture +before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy--a God not only +to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are +here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin +with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched +drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be +men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God +will punish the _cause_, while man calls the effect to account. For my +part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest drunkard from +the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest liquor dealer in +the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he deals out, and +that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of ruined souls, +souls for which he will have to answer for before the Great Judge who +never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt by a jury. + +Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt +we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home. + +_Friday._ About two P.M. the sky was suddenly darkened with angry +looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they grew more +threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not anxious to +witness a cyclone, but if one _must_ come, I wanted to watch its +coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the clouds +rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and we drove +out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck of a brick +building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy fall of +hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some places. +This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. [ERRATA. +Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" read +"Nebraska is _not_ visited." Third line from bottom leave out the +word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as some +suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep over +some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind that I +was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather than +does Pennsylvania. + +The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very +oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature. + +_Saturday_ we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and +drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has +many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all." + +Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine +view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over +housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many +beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120 +feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks, +five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk +proper--built of stone, brick, or plank--and the remaining eleven feet +are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards. + +The streets running north and south are numbered from first to +twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W. + +Saturday evening--a beautiful moonlight night--just such a night as +makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has +been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the +mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know +if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be +aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because +I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a +neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over _after dark_. All saddled, +Fanny waits at the door, and I must go. + +Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back--I'll +telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am +told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have +only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for--but a +happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start. + + One by one her feet are lifted, + One by one she sets them down; + Step by step we leave the gatepost, + And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle, + +when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you +cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My +thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey. + +Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly. +But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night, +and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak--_if I ever reached +the foot of the mountain_,--that I did not notice that Fanny had +crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post. +Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but +she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg +him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were +created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow, +cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot. + +Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie +Keefer. + +"What does it eat?" I asked. + +"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all." + +I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but +Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night. + +In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was +asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln. +Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed +strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in +among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and +cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship. +They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief, +requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist +church, to come and baptise their infants. + +I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind, +but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so +earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I +wore an expression of pity instead. + +The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and +seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of +their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son +of Africa arose and said: + +"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for +about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And +Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat +rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called +sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit +by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake +bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of +time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my +time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in +prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands, +and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a +continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the +prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard. +One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by +bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too +large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while +she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing, +if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only +hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing +in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it +was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word +long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way. +It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description, +and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing +short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was +very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with +the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table +and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride +and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men +stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put +down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could +not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down, +and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a +piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister +closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander +would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if +de Lord am willin, I'll be here too." + +A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with +an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening +found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes. + +Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to +speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text +am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua +commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great +wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by +blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book +of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de +Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat +moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine +it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll +give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de +smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and +not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky +mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I +heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful, +and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is +expended." + +And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while +we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be +drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true +representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four +long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such +utter ignorance. + +Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been +"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The +Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.--The conclusion. + + +Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont. +Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last +Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of +what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the +storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At +Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a +couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed +to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and +Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first +person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before +she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come +to meet me, Mrs. Euber?" + +"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago." + +After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr. +Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the +previous week. + +"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received +your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a +great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you +didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up." + +Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him, +promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found +he had not eaten them all--which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called +on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I +learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook +my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey +home, and find your dear mother well!" + +"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing +better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch +acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we +meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are +stored away for future reference, in quiet hours. + +Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the +thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my +indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over +level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed +over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed +their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said +good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont. + +Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at +Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri +river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car +where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and +watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all +those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have +returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of +Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged +gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross +the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be +careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the +shore." + +"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the +boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall +into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed +with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom--but +we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy +shores of Iowa. + +Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going--of my visit at +Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family--dear old friends of my +grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield, +Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow +me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there. + +July 30, 5:30 P.M. "Will you tell me, please, when we cross the +Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we crossed +the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the window and +shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the hills and +valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I thought +there was an air of home in the breezes. + +The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at +Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the +depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months +ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I +gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright +expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves +as bright as these I gather? + +Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear +old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return +again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall +the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and +esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent +people it holds within its arms. + +As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in +a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I +have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months' +stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot +have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the +little groggeries and make those who _will_ have it, pay the highest +price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a homestead. + +"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too +dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and +wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do +they? + +"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B. +over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants +of the car. + +"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other. + +"At the ---- (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve +a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any +good." + +"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down +to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where +everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose +those young dandies are "Oil Princes"--"Coal Oil Johnnies," you +know--and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for +their fun. + +When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels +as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew +my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take +the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in +waiting and only one carriage. + +"Go to the ----, lady?" + +"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the +ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge, +past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open +saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an +eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm +and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I +guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an +elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my +imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that +He had brought me safely so near home. + +"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning. + +"Seventy-five cents." + +I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please +take fifty?" + +"Why?" + +"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel." + +"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents +on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not +help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several +little extras I had met with had taken about all. + +I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him +at the breakfast table. + +August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of +rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size, +but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to +you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of +snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that +glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig +and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I +wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and +how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere +else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the +great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the +many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark." +They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond +description. + +Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for +DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then +out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of +trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard +Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is +dumped down in wild confusion here--mountains and valleys, hills and +hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones, +trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed +with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters +and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations, +but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of +derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills--but now we are 17 +miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is +the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment +to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302 +feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of +silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever +again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I +feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the +honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle," +never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and +exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!" + +It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience +the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks +at either side, and the cars run very slow. + +One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen +excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great +valley--its noble trees untouched--and allow it to forever remain as +one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures. + +Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful +mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500 +feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond +description, so are the mountains. + +J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the +plains and stood upon the mountain peaks." + +To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but +enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the +plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His +children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged +mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the +most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union. + +Arrived at DuBois 5 P.M. This road has only been in use since in June, +and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to see the +trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand, +and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood Francis +watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but when he +recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on before to +tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I reached the +"wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, and were +not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! and the new moon +looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were glad, happy days, +but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a few days. Norval to +go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home. + +"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your +wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting: + +"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking +than when she went away," Maggie said. + +August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home, +through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land, +the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and +we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat +from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I +thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a +mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world. + +While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a +shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and +something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help +comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little +western town. + +Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we +go, until we cross Little Mahoning--bless its bright waters!--and once +more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town--the snuggest, dearest +little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I +wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles +farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays +aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau," +and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the +gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its +rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip +through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase +Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and +her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the +meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me. + +"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't +leave you soon again!" + +Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the +house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we +frightened Emma and Harry into a cry. + +I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she +strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the +friends. + +Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear +mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries, +and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how +good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at +my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep. + +Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see +and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel" +was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit +Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May, +shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed--but +where is Will? + +"Out at the oats field?" + +"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see +him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back +field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go +through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down +goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!" + +As we trudge down the hill, I said: + +"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your +farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a +scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state." + +"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will +endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they +could go along I would like to try life in the West." + +Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book +out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when +mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed +look: + +"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some +huckleberries for supper." + +Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put +aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the +huckleberries are gathered. + +Seated again-- + +"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while +Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while +I make a corn cutter." + +Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father? + +There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand +that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia. + +"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly +turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then, +"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn +cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it +be a time of peace." + +I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the +latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt +Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly +turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my +sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on +the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover +puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr +to kisses--I mean baby kisses? + +Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came +the apples--golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown. +And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I +finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The +cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and +although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the +thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have to do is to take up a +cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the +slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all +over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and +mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone +Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though +I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks. +Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the +"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day +lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of +faith and trust. + +So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for +the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left +Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along +this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary +winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet +piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan +Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave +Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I +will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We +approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge, +about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the +whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The +river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet +deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225 +feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch +only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing +quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the +bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south +we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the +train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again. +Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and +see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more +favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly +by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I +am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of +the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet +of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our +view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can +do justice to Niagara Falls. + +I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or +leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil +is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy. + +A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New +York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected +farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit +river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only +see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to +the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not +get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday +morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five +days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some +of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the +people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good +old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of +the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of +vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering +up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought, +Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and +earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln +Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright +day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the +panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything +about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to +corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look +for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that +I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among +the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked +upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the +artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday +morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the +Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over +the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go +over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I +left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road +that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land +in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the +Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is +night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view. +Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it +is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the +Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln, +arriving there at 12 M. March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's again +just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and my +welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home +with them during my stay in Lincoln. + +My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr. +Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms +satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year +from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book +began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of +it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of +hard labor. + +How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work, +kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of +discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying: + +"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the +labor it involves." + +"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work +cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden +in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all +through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put +it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at +the last." + +"Did He forsake me," do you ask? + +"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in +Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their +name down without hesitation. + +"What security do you want of me?" I asked. + +"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book." + +"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many +prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands +would be reached out to me." + +"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so +keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged." + +I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it +to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his +confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness +such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach. + +_Friday, May 9th._ I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my dear +aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father +spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome +me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was +afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the +water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said: +"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just +now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me +this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of +sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84 +with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue. + +"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up +to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror +of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth. + +The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the +sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the +leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other +May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my +May-day in the old familiar places. + +Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford, +and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction, +friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I +thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish." + +And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in _my_ "Diary +of a Minister's Wife," I bid you GOOD-BYE. + + [Illustration: + + FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R. + AND CONNECTIONS, TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.] + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 *** diff --git a/44688-h/44688-h.htm b/44688-h/44688-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..aebb64b --- /dev/null +++ b/44688-h/44688-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9137 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/loose.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<title>To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton—A +Project Gutenberg eBook</title> +<style type="text/css"> + + body {margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%;} + + p {text-indent: 0em; + text-align: justify; + margin-top: .80em; + margin-bottom: .80em; + line-height: 1.25em;} + + .ralign {text-align: right;} + + .hang {text-align: justify; + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em;} + + .smallhang {text-align: justify; + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em; + font-size: 98%; + font-weight: bold; + padding-bottom: 1em;} + + .ctrsmallchpt {text-align: center; + font-size: 98%; + font-weight: bold; + padding-bottom: 1em;} + + .blockquote {text-align: justify; + margin-left: 7%; + margin-right: 7%; + font-size: 98%; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 1.5em;} + + .smc {font-size: 85%;} + .sc {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .ctr {text-align: center;} + .ctrbold {text-align: center; + font-weight: bold;} + .ctrsmall {text-align: center; + font-size: 90%;} + .ctrsmaller {text-align: center; + font-size: 80%;} + .ctrsmallest {text-align: center; + font-size: 70%;} + .ctrlarge {text-align: center; + font-size: 120%;} + .ctrtoppad {text-align: center; + padding-top: 1.6em;} + + .small {font-size: 90%;} + .smaller {font-size: 80%;} + .smallest {font-size: 70%;} + + #coverpage {border: .1em solid black;} + + @media print, handheld + {.figcenter {text-align: center; + margin: 2em auto auto auto;} + body {margin-left: 2%; + margin-right: 2%;} + .poetry {display: block; + margin-left: 1.5em;} + table {font-size: x-small;}} + + img {max-width: 100%; + height:auto;} + + .figcenter {clear: both; + margin: 2em auto; + text-align: center; + max-width: 100%;} + + .caption {font-size: small; + text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; + margin: 0.25em 0;} + + .titlepage {font-weight: bold;} + .booktitle {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center; + font-size: 125%; + padding-top: 2em; + page-break-before: always;} + + h1 {text-align: center; + font-size: 140%; + font-weight: bold; + line-height: 2em; + padding-top: 1em; + page-break-before: always; + letter-spacing: .1em;} + + h2 {text-align: center; + font-size: 105%; + font-weight: bold; + padding-top: 3em; + padding-bottom: 1em; + page-break-before: always;} + + hr {width: 65%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 17.5%; + margin-right: 17.5%; + clear: both;} + + hr.med {width: 50%; + height: .1em; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: 25%; + margin-right: 25%; + clear: both;} + + hr.short {width: 35%; + height: .1em; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: 32.5%; + margin-right: 32.5%; + clear: both;} + + .poetry-container {text-align: center;} + + .poetry {display: inline-block; + text-align: left; + line-height: 1.25em;} + + .poetry .headstanza {margin: .5em 0em 1.25em 0em;} + .poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} + .poetry .stanzaitalic {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; font-style:italic;} + .poetry div {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + + .poetry .i1 {margin-left: 1em;} + + ul {list-style: none;} + li {text-align: left; + padding-bottom: .2em;} + + table {margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-top: 0em; + margin-bottom: 0em;} + + td.right {text-align: right; + padding-left: 1em;} + + .tn {font-size: small; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + padding: .2em 1em .2em 1em; + background-color: #E6E6E6; + border-style: solid; + border-width: .1em;} + + a:link {color: #00F; + text-decoration:none;} + a:visited {color:#F00; + text-decoration:none;} + +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 ***</div> + +<div class="figcenter"><img width="393" height="600" id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover"></div> + + +<h1> +TO AND THROUGH<br><big>NEBRASKA</big>. +</h1> +<br> +<div class="titlepage"> +<p class="ctrsmall"> +BY +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img width="240" height="28" src="images/001.jpg" alt="A Pennsylvania Girl."></div> +<br> +<p class="ctrsmall"> +<span class="smc">THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT</span> TRUTH<br> +<span class="smc">IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS,<br> +WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG<br> +JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO</span> +</p> + +<br> +<p class="ctrsmall"> +<i>The Author</i>, +</p> +<p class="ctr"> +FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON. +</p> + +<br> +<p class="ctrsmaller"> +LINCOLN, NEB.<br> +JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS,<br> +1884. +</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="med"> +<h2> +A WORD TO THE READER. +</h2> + + +<p> +If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual +Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and +triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and +valleys, read <a href="#I">Chapter I.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, <a href="#II">Chapter II.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of the great Platte valley, <a href="#III">Chapter III.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, <a href="#IV">Chapter IV.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and +liquor laws, and Capital, <a href="#V">Chapter V.</a> +</p> + +<p> +If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the +world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, <a href="#VI">Chapter VI.</a> +</p> + +<p> + +</p> + +<p> +And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand <i>just +why</i> this little book—if such it may be called, came to be written. +We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a +Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it +more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown +in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned +lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give +everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch +upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a +stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the +state from Dakota to Kansas—306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the +U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the +state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip +and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you +read <span class="smc">ONLY TRUTH</span>. +</p> + +<p> +My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement; +and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My +parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing +the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and +rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882, +and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was +anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my +youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself—claimants +must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I +promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and +intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one +years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the +pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus +far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch, +sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not +deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet +I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many +times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him +in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry, +would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered +with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was +ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his +was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the +power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well +arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far +north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go +there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they +wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they +would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably +detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple +of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could +depend for care it was decided that I should go. +</p> + +<p> +When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a +"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as +a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like +fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I +never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines +were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and +features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows: +</p> + +<p> +A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The +squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good, +sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true, +who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from +death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians. +</p> + +<p> +The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from +his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the +old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a +better life in a new home." +</p> + +<p> +Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or +locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack +mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I +had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to +my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had +written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story +would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack +in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book. +</p> + +<p> +Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross? +and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done? +</p> + +<p> +"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book +in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes +lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned +from books, and then the book will be—only a little pamphlet after all. +</p> + + + + +<hr class="short"> +<p class="booktitle"> +THROUGH NEBRASKA. +</p> + + + + +<h2> +<a name="I"> </a> +CHAPTER I. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang">Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford, Pa., +in Northern Nebraska — A Description of the Country in +which they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha +Valleys — Their First Summer's Work and Harvest. +</p> + + +<p> +True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to +begin this with words of love of our own native land,—the state of all +that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest +to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one +vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams +abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a +peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to +become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union. +</p> + +<p> +Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain +ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of +golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil +that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told—affording her children +the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in +until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go +out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new +homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers +lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony +for all mankind." +</p> + +<p> +Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a +pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by +Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and +west branches of the Tunagwant—or Big Cove—Creek, and hid away from +the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in +1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the +valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was +transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and +selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth, +until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and, +forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that +has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in +all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class +money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told +from a member of the Standard Oil Company. +</p> + +<p> +Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass +quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes, +with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free, +social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be +suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and +operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live +for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time +and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of +living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to +carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune +sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only +for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the +valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work +of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are +yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show +innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks +rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a +feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged +hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly +burning, which livens the darkest night. +</p> + +<p> +Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and +like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning. +Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and +spent their money even more lavishingly than it came—so often counting +on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing +and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil, +when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from +territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to +reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then +new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured +many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the +deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new +fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000 +inhabitants. +</p> + +<p> +Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And +to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great +excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not +only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with +the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing +their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil. +</p> + +<p> +Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their <i>all</i>; +dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would +sell and realize a fortune in a few hours. +</p> + +<p> +Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the +wealth the day would bring. +</p> + +<p> +What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day +advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the +"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top. +So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and +happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny, +and often more than their own were swept. +</p> + +<p> +Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they +had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces +there, but faces that were <i>green</i> with despair. This was only one +day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is +"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But +when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it. +</p> + +<p> +Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at +last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the +country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The +Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of +Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A +colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received +so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in +attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week +after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they +numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the +year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws. +Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed +must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee; +but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of +which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray +expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and +lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public +buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots—a business and +residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of +remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within +a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of +spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage. +Also the keeping of gambling houses." +</p> + +<p> +On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered +seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location. +</p> + +<p> +The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear +their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in +northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general +wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of +Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed, +and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian +reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the +choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where +nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of +many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after +many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was +arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and +Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April +appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists. +</p> + +<p> +We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains +of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when +anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high +for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager +pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and +landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where? +</p> + +<p> +We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only +those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold +kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize +what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty, +and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would +bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of +the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can +know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some +of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county, +chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to +Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making +and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than +when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more +substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or +monopoly. +</p> + +<p> +The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done, +homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many +sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday +morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but +it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the +going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those +left behind. +</p> + +<p> +And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the +exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and +joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were +companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye" +hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving +those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father +and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left +behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by +long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long +letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home. +</p> + +<p> +One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the +hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they +as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying +all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all +just to keep back the sobs and tears. +</p> + +<p> +Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated +many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must +go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load +of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping +of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we +were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle +westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we +received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left +behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure +snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is +heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears +until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity, +even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it +seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking +back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled +with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the +cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of +hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among +the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of. +</p> + +<p> +But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and +busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging +everything for comfort sake. +</p> + +<p> +This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends, +which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one +bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil +and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home? +</p> + +<p> +Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a +number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow +them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all +the good things a lunch basket can be stored with. +</p> + +<p> +When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua, +now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom +people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most +popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles +wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville, +we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to +speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would +call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose +their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we +rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the +childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball +so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the +last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would +slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of +Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points, +we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all +sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony +babe. +</p> + +<p> +Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad +farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and +jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed +to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the +children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the +racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing +Cleveland—leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city +and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight +hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn +with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears, +such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind +lines I then had written: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers,</div> +<div class="i1">Your loveliness we'll strew</div> +<div>From Washington to Cleveland's soil,</div> +<div class="i1">The funeral cortege through.</div> +<div>In that loved land that gave him birth</div> +<div class="i1">We lay him down to rest,</div> +<div>'Tis but his mangled form alone,</div> +<div class="i1">His soul is with the blest.</div> +<div>Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist</div> +<div class="i1">With many a falling tear,</div> +<div>A mist is over all this land</div> +<div class="i1">For him we loved most dear.</div></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing;</div> +<div class="i1">In mournful strains and slow,</div> +<div>While in the tomb we gently lay,</div> +<div class="i1">Our martyred Garfield low.</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but +rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take +up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled +down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may +be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who +never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we +leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting +hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr. +Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee +pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's +generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup, +until he is now rinsing the grounds. +</p> + +<p> +Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain +would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word +we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than +all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest +comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand +almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains +and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since +childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first +loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind. +'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a +better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the +same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of +the world. +</p> + +<p> +When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were +surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white +sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill +to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant +to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large +and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were +quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of +the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area, +24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88 +miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled +in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we +bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on, +with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only +to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago. +</p> + +<p> +The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a +decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around +by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing +his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but +little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house, +which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The +Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats, +being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It +made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were +anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of +humanity. +</p> + +<p> +I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not +sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R., +and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty +flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands +and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of +Illinois—rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or +stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing +everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board, +barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing +green. +</p> + +<p> +The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far +apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors. +</p> + +<p> +Crossed the Mississippi river about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span>, and when +mid-way over was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and +about a mile in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off +the old grass, which was a novel sight to us. +</p> + +<p> +Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark +just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see. +</p> + +<p> +Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more +like a delegation from "Blackville"—from the soot and cinder-dirt—than +a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a +camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three +o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by +moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into +the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East +miss the rough, rugged hills of home! +</p> + +<p> +The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,—as one remarked, "not from +behind a hill, but right out of the ground"—ushering in another +beautiful day. +</p> + +<p> +At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to +see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer +boats—three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was +leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull +lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and +have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we +never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore +in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but +"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand. +Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not +use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of +a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point, +the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned. +When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had +a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east +to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level +lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for +the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet +we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within. +Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no +other home. +</p> + +<p> +To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who +would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it +certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us +who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not +expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more +devoted to the old home than before. +</p> + +<p> +We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they +had not helped to bear us on their bosom to—we did not know what. How +little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no +rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters." +Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the +waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the +world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out +on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on +just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores +that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the +voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and +thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be +more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast +adrift upon the sea of <i>our</i> life; and though they may be tempest +tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and +switched on to Nebraska's <i>terra firma</i>. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place, +but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered +westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger +agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he +fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he +represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of +Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had +just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for +"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many +were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we +flattered ourselves that we <i>did</i> well sustain the old family +honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded +Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in +which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us. +Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you +all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm +and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a +day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at +a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather +half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was +sung out, and we were on with the rest—to go calling and visit with +our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the +monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of +the cars. +</p> + +<p> +One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string; +mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt +I was going only to soon leave them—they to scatter over the plains, +and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a +mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received +a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down +the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we +had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as +they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we +reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from +the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He +received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed +in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days' +journey. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the +claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly +had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with +him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again. +</p> + +<p> +I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already +be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead +grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire, +and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground—it has the same +rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west +we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and +sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us +when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and +what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of +fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses +far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses. +</p> + +<p> +We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw +this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who +had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the +prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his +luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped +at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be +cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of +"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but +were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the +car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I +hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west? +I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our +tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with +the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were +not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of +such an act. +</p> + +<p> +About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station, +Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors +locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our +first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our +coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a +good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and +could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a +comfortable resting place for the night. +</p> + +<p> +We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air +of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like +birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their +nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists +expected to find their nests of homes. +</p> + +<p> +But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark +that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had +to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the +songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a +mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader, +the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took +right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after +the smoke had cleared away, looked—and—well—we missed paper and +pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown +that followed. +</p> + +<p> +A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of +Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind +of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost +among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and +stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to +breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to +note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote +down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will +sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until +breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something—I didn't +know what, but full of curiosity went to see. +</p> + +<p> +A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that +arrived last night?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is." +</p> + +<p> +"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky." +</p> + +<p> +It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming +implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went +to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as +ox-plows were concerned. +</p> + +<p> +What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey, +and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast +before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made +an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if +the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on +to—reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole +truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of +the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey +better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do +you think of a climate like that? +</p> + +<p> +But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales, +and in reality we had only eaten—I mean we had only gained one and a +half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper +were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity. +</p> + +<p> +When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there +trying to sleep. +</p> + +<p> +"Home-sick?" we asked. +</p> + +<p> +"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night." +</p> + +<p> +No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home. +</p> + +<p> +First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the +depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location. +</p> + +<p> +The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad +through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to +secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being +claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the +morrow. +</p> + +<p> +The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be +seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the +evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above +his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with +the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday morning.</i> Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the +men started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and +ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded +with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who +were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away. +</p> + +<p> +But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was +the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that +western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers +of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town. +But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and +wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival. +Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to +anxious ones in the East. +</p> + +<p> +In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie, +about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the +river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely +turned already and didn't know the town I had just left. +</p> + +<p> +The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and +is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water +is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook +and line, spears and seine are used instead. +</p> + +<p> +Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked, +yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there +is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the +streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops, +and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,—cross +I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know +what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear +what Prof. Aughey says: +</p> + +<p> +"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state. +It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley +widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and +often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river +approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into +the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its +course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall, +and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable +manufacturing region." +</p> + +<p> +We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we +made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not +have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the +water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while +the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some +places its bed. +</p> + +<p> +Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it +quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high; +plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white; +roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of +the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had +a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and +walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out. +</p> + +<p> +The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a +frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the +shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the +bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened +with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it +down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves +the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at +first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many +inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water +from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is +easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water. +</p> + +<p> +The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight. +But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you, +forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills +fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly +sod, dot the surrounding country. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday, 30th.</i> Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little +sunshine. For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought +and found a very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John +Skirving, of whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought +his family from Jefferson City, Iowa. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday.</i> A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes +through everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters +in camp near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with +nothing but their tent for shelter. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Wednesday.</i> About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have +snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine +rain. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at +home. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Thursday.</i> And still it rains and blows! +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday.</i> A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I +got out of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther +west, and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to +me I scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down +and quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed +in the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I +hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing +had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise +than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to +make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that +I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I +had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half +expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared +away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so +dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that +the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon +dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty +dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday.</i> Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The +majority in good heart and looking well despite the weather and +exposure they have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few +are discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere. +</p> + +<p> +They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still +farther northwest—some going as far west as Holt creek, and so +scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a +disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the +same church and school would serve them all. +</p> + +<p> +Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily, +through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the +colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been +claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located +more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more +deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was +purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be +a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top, +which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the +wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and +hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again, +and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers. +</p> + +<p> +Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles +in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and +then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office +and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there +was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend +the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim, +hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see +a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his. +</p> + +<p> +Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Sunday, 6 May.</i> Bright and warm. Would not have known there had +been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely +dried, and walking pleasant. +</p> + +<p> +A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon, +and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the +Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it +quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even +here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our +attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going, +and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on +this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly. +</p> + +<p> +The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness: +"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn +valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their +presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be +sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with +thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him +we can look for care and protection at all times. +</p> + +<p> +In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on +temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people, +as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in +"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from +"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the +same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we +had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare +to think how far we were from its shelter. +</p> + +<p> +But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his +love is just the same the wide world over. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday.</i> Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the +location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but +themselves to care for, have started. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday.</i> Rains. Folks disappointed. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Wednesday.</i> Rains and blows. Discouraging. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Thursday.</i> Blows and rains. <i>Very</i> discouraging. +</p> + +<p> +The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season. +Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in +some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard +frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the +colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in +comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know +where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build +their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their +families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I +cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I +am greatly in sympathy with them. +</p> + +<p> +With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I +feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes." +Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the +land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I +am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds +with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson +county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me +some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I +have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every +kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home; +in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give +every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on +my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own +care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I +trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and +protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while +I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew +before—though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my +appetite, as well as the climate—yet every one experiences an increase +of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called +"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft +beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his +complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the +eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and +wherever it found him. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday.</i> Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off. +</p> + +<p> +It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a +prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at +night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The +prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields +of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow +the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen +some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter +upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so +long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to +drive their cattle out to the "divides,"—hills between rivers—to +pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on +them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch +a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her +pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to +scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have +also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with +the good. +</p> + +<p> +During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants +keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara +country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great +hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every +worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top. +Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon, +which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole +in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with +them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are +generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the +wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking, +overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often +patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and +children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the +rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that +look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show +they have had a good living where they came from. +</p> + +<p> +Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good +education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright +little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from +Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving +Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the +country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon, +spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her +husband attended to several valuable Texas horses. +</p> + +<p> +Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three +weeks." +</p> + +<p> +"How can you travel through such weather?" +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the +rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down." +</p> + +<p> +"Never get sick?" +</p> + +<p> +"No." +</p> + +<p> +"Not even a cold?" +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started." +</p> + +<p> +"How many miles can you go in a day?" +</p> + +<p> +"We average about twenty." +</p> + +<p> +The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look +healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of +people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go +whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure +we owe the opening up of the western country. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday morning.</i> Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared +off nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All +getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr. +Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of +oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the +majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so, +much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and +left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double +bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last +week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by +Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years. +</p> + +<p> +Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S. +gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to +bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off +the currants. +</p> + +<p> +Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska +behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I +think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along. +Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the +wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and +as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under +the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them +with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well +trained by the time we reach the end of our journey. +</p> + +<p> +"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far +we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We +are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows +running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road +running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart, +but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I +see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and +make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to +pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt. +The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another. +</p> + +<p> +Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile +stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation, +not even Stuart to be seen from this point. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look +out and perhaps I will find one. +</p> + +<p> +Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be +a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it. +Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right +are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles +away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves. +</p> + +<p> +The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the—oxen of +about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy +walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles, +wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had +tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new +homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying +supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo +stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which +gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its +protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery +and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time! +</p> + +<p> +Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real +little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called, +but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear +water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland +in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks <i>are</i> sweeter for +singing to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their +foam," and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to +the many that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on +the hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had +reigned within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the +walls falling. +</p> + +<p> +Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as +the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for +your sake, reader. +</p> + +<p> +Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that +stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite +new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother +their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at +least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie +is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children! +</p> + +<p> +Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of +the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back +memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly +written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims." +All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put +forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an +undertaking for me. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!" +</p> + +<p> +"Is what?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, that stick for a whip-handle." +</p> + +<p> +I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had +seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it. +</p> + +<p> +The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night +at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to +the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of +way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am +not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with +travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady, +though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we +are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the +few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen +all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no +bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and +will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just +shut my eyes until we are on the other side. +</p> + +<p> +There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to +secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not +disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite +crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the +setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of +the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast +this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the +Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing +most interesting. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my +barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name +it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48°, +think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair +ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out. +</p> + +<p> +One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the +banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and +bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen, +almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses +the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock +that juts out of the hill—first stone or rock seen since we entered +the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man +coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the +hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help +you gentlemen, but that off-horse is <i>terribly weak</i>. The other +horse is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak +that off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. +While we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough +to learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he +was lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly +who have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men +push, but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. +The men debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and +carry them up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my +suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk +with, "That's it—only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and +a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men, +while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to +go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble. +</p> + +<p> +When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk, +as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill, +across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with +a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a +narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond +willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie +schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very +good harbor for these ships of the west. +</p> + +<p> +"What kind of a shanty is this?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't +think worth while to light up in the evening." +</p> + +<p> +On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I +can scarcely take another step. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open +door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered +about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus." +</p> + +<p> +"No, just across the river where you see that light." +</p> + +<p> +Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel +about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and <i>so glad</i> to get to <i>somewhere</i>. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly +after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his +hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here +before dark. +</p> + +<p> +Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr. +Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa. +</p> + +<p> +"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs. +M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon. +Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But +Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take +them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to +all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good +supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get +laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new +apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod +roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on +the floor, while the family occupies the old part. +</p> + +<p> +About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of +the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently +pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general +uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of +the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping +into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said, +"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer +shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log +house, 14×16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen, +dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture, +without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the +family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and +son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this +old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the +comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and +dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened. +The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men +have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the +house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the +ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing +over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking +badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in. +Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection. +</p> + +<p> +Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone +Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion, +but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm, +so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled. +</p> + +<p> +The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing +machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with +carpet and rubber coats. +</p> + +<p> +How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and +meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river—hope it is meat cast +adrift for some hungry traveler—and some one has used my loaf for a +cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So +I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free +from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted +experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way. +Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while +the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and +prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and +went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons. +</p> + +<p> +The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the +<i>hotel</i> where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the +shelter we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their +wagons, and wonder where the rest of our party are. +</p> + +<p> +The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters +makes us even more homesick. +</p> + +<p> +"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every +thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I +<i>do wish</i> it would stop!" "When <i>will</i> it clear off?" "Does +it <i>always</i> rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of +times, only to cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving +sixteen souls crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. +Just how was a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. +Reader, I wish you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me +by the stove, I then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you +ever read Mark Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, +there are a few <i>innocents abroad</i>, just now, <i>roughing it</i> +to their hearts' content. +</p> + +<p> +The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down +crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some +blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick, +sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores. +Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker—there, I knew she would rock on Mr. +Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double +up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a +better chance. +</p> + +<p> +If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might +perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be +dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and +then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do +pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself +fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a +chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on +two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie, +you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before +the stove, and list—he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a +pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots +and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that +than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden +pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if +he doesn't stop nodding so far back. +</p> + +<p> +Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more +words of Kathrina. +</p> + +<p> +Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the +bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and +crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been +driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog, +give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then; +casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep, +because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather +scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of +these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these +sleepers must be kept warm. +</p> + +<p> +Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet +and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does +weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small +as the unoccupied space, that's all. +</p> + +<p> +Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my +eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the +oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do? +To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the +floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get +up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I +leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that +"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just +as they can, mostly. So +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>All cuddled up together,</div> +<div>In a little weenty heap,</div> +<div>I double up my pillow</div> +<div>And laugh myself to sleep.</div> +<div>I know you will not blame me</div> +<div>If I dream of home so bright—</div> +<div>I'll see you in the morning</div> +<div>So now a kind "good night".</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt +further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little +bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is +seeking rest for to-night. +</p> + +<p> +"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for +breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep +longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't +always slept on a table? +</p> + +<p> +I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning, +could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were +sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are +surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in +almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension +table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the +dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this +chapter. +</p> + +<p> +Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever +regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge," +and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights' +lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought +they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor, +to sleep. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday morning.</i> Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start +about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies +ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push +them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight. +</p> + +<p> +But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in +the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in +the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on +over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to +snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head +well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to +start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the +trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all +sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking +and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and +pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try +hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this +bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I +pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only +variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a +tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for +several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost +trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both +of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that +neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two +squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces +looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their +situation. +</p> + +<p> +The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground +soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near +where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared +their lands, the country took on a better appearance. +</p> + +<p> +The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that +look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and +very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if +possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept +up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How +much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were +ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a +plow, and asked no more questions. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross +with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a +signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open +arms." +</p> + +<p> +And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married +brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner. +After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to +the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara +and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span> +</p> + +<p> +Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home +until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us +feel quite at home. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well +supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent" +to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"The sweetest songs are never sung;</div> +<div>The fairest pictures never hung;</div> +<div>The fondest hopes are never told—</div> +<div>They are the heart's most cherished gold."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer, +when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois +City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L. +added her beautiful children's stories. +</p> + +<p> +He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them, +and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization. +How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to +read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists? +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday, 15th of May</i>, dawned without a cloud, and how bright +everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor +backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change +from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my +May day, but the story is a long one—too long for the pages of my +little book. +</p> + +<p> +And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to +gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the +hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of +the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans, +and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs +were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were +of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited +the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful +place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite +homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every +color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the +Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success, +after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house +where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which, +Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte, +twelve miles west. +</p> + +<p> +Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close +to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past +the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss +Minn to join our maying party. +</p> + +<p> +The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's +growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with +blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as +they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered +trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the +valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most +of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands +alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20 +acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is +covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of +a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they +are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others +that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the +touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had +been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a +shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but +those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists; +tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country +were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and +wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden +treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a +moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of +dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I +felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day, +and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars," +for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will +allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different. +</p> + +<p> +We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know +where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite +distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war +whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the +north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained +from this elevated point was grand. +</p> + +<p> +A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the +north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the +water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs +extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong +to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but +without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or +rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance +is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim +takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a +plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me +the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's +and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the +sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone, +to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel +lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our +many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in +places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of +spring? +</p> + +<p> +But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton, +your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western +girls would think of such a thing!" +</p> + +<p> +"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It +was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th +of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens, +gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or +have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the +difference in the years to me. +</p> + +<p> +No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and +the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of +an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring +in bloom, and I could not but gather of all—even the tiniest. +</p> + +<p> +The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and +remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the +previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not +so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over +the serious illness of a loved sister. +</p> + +<p> +I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers +with tear-dimmed eyes—sister May was dead, and everywhere it was +desolate. +</p> + +<p> +'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we +gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen. +</p> + +<p> +In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy +mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and +miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that +almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright. +</p> + +<p> +Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and +shared them with May, by laying them on her grave. +</p> + +<p> +To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I +celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost +untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the +favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks +where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will +gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so +lonely thinking of their daughter so far away. +</p> + +<p> +The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle—sister +Maggie's oldest child—who came to me for a May-flower in '76. +</p> + +<p> +But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was +growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to +gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love. +</p> + +<p> +Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears +that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown, +for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to +me. +</p> + +<p> +"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live <i>good</i> lives and yet not make +the <i>most</i> of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good +and useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good +and useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of +the hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and +prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now +budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner." +</p> + +<p> +After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will +be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone +Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious +mementos of our May-day in Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"—the +term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance, +and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a +neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately +come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the +life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I +tell these little things that those who do not already know, may +understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere. +</p> + +<p> +Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie +ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or <i>minnie</i> in +the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor +woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a +word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and +then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright, +pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a +new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright +and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a +drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a +half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least, +the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky +complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black +braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears. +Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could +not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her +face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus +she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their <i>tepee</i>. +The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two +apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove, +table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed +covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen +except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The +furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and +neatness I had not expected. +</p> + +<p> +The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to +smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then +drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf +tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought, +it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege +lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband +laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her. +She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the +lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left +feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who +would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor; +labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw +is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by +those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by +the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians +are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing +every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice, +coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week. +</p> + +<p> +Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have +no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as +Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why +not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the +white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or +die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to +adopt! +</p> + +<p> +We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no +one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better. +</p> + +<p> +When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in +the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You +don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led +the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built, +so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting +to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag +carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by +being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had +the partition been finished. +</p> + +<p> +The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were +cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and +looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected +without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with +my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare +your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I +long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for +society." +</p> + +<p> +Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right +out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience. +</p> + +<p> +I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and +experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by +friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs. +W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known +the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes +overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost. +Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock +raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of +their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and +during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod, +but of lumber. +</p> + +<p> +"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling +here will help it so much, and now we will stay." +</p> + +<p> +Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing +she had a taste for the beautiful. +</p> + +<p> +After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made +our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the +buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked +like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a +prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground +homes. +</p> + +<p> +Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his +house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to +frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn +toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more. +</p> + +<p> +Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six +of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had +joined them. +</p> + +<p> +The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we +finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun, +suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and +where? +</p> + +<p> +Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to +many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept +hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms, +and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want +the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross +over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs +of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the +colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well +filled with weather stayed emigrants. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not +come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday +night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When +daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along +the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river +and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the +journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies +dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned +his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left +Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with +sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found +for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C. +</p> + +<p> +Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned +that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter +prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what +you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not +expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country +just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find +the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would +not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged +when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt +for your motto, "What <i>others</i> have done <i>I</i> can do." Allow +me to give you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any +of the colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the +disadvantages of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April +of '79 I came to this country to look up a home where I could have good +cattle range. When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs +crosswise to look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further +west, but returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help +of a young man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was +under roof. While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made +garden. We then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and +came back in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two +months' supply of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than +Keya Paha, thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, +was about the nearest house. +</p> + +<p> +"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon +had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his +reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail, +that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to +come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose +reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number +together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the +government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat, +and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is +worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is +strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them +right on the war-path. +</p> + +<p> +"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made +Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from +Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time +it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a +distance of about sixty miles. +</p> + +<p> +"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school +house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister +(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of +firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s +father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower +part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many +a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of +satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give +them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on +reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters +have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without +meeting a soul on the way. +</p> + +<p> +"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The +Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid +of them." +</p> + +<p> +It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to +"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door. +</p> + +<p> +Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about +seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr +oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have +over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell. +</p> + +<p> +Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and +brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us +took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent; +went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of +an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From +the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet +strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful +frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's +dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his +blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower +limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their +meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant +plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind +of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with +needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding +their finger ends than was Mr. Clark. +</p> + +<p> +"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from +drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about +all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away, +I can tell you." +</p> + +<p> +We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson +from their experience—never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't +hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it +takes good strong material to stand the wind. +</p> + +<p> +In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the +prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is +indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving +grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave +great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new +growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was +not burnt. +</p> + +<p> +Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same +time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive +nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say, +burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass +roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy +soil. +</p> + +<p> +These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees. +Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often +planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato +patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To +prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a +supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of +course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has +passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a +cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday, 21st.</i> Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn +planting. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED. +</p> + +<p> +As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to +be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be +interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to, +so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned +and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that +closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their +broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on +which cattle are grazing—that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo" +(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as +the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only +to now and then take a stroll over it. +</p> + +<p> +The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half +a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and +then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called +table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing +line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth, +where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here, +thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet +deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says +"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the +water is clear and pleasant to the taste. +</p> + +<p> +The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on +the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and +from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich. +The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there +are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak, +elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in +the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums, +choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one +has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size +and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead +of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom +so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in +great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines +that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes" +of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry, +which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little +white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a +foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not +choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they +are pleasant to the taste and refreshing. +</p> + +<p> +Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black +currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the +snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are +starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said +to be equally as good as the poled hops of home. +</p> + +<p> +"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs. +K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the +buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum, +and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in +clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from +the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in +color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters, +and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It +belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as +ordinary beans and eaten—if at starvation point. Of the other flowers +gathered mention was made on my May-day. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is +easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet +not very hard. +</p> + +<p> +About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other +half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen +inches to two feet deep. +</p> + +<p> +I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by +those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are. +"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing +country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted +with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far +from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad +nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be +long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free +from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in +Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow +tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want; +no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we +will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us +to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little +alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"—to +scatter over—and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere. +</p> + +<p> +Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden +and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all +they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the +building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber +culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in +cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly. +</p> + +<p> +There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in +stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see +it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a +general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers +will tell the story of its worth. +</p> + +<p> +I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I +hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of +an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so +interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read. +</p> + +<p> +But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding +away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down +to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was +anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy +poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof +for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have +during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer +nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while +of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a +dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and +surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real +to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man +who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their +herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as +he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a +half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma. +I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was +before I came west." +</p> + +<p> +The room was about 10×12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and +part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made +when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they +lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on. +</p> + +<p> +To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude—so far +removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the +stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only +retreats for the night. +</p> + +<p> +We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the +Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and +wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course, +or else I am turned all wrong. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday.</i> Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to +regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together, +going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with +a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh! +I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she +talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble +monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no +doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could +do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under. +</p> + +<p> +Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and +gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I +felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as +much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible. +</p> + +<p> +We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to +Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K. +and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been +forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And +Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted +on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and +improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a +kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them +all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and +soon the little group of friends were left behind. +</p> + +<p> +I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to +part from them?—Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people +all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with +them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the +spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that +the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our +good plans could not be carried out. +</p> + +<p> +It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with +eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even +had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a +nice settlement of people. +</p> + +<p> +The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance +to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all +together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just +where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are +only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many +acres. +</p> + +<p> +One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no +good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the +unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose +wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for +the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over +the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The +tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses +to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken. +</p> + +<p> +We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and +the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may +learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow +and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up +between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod +with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you +plant the next hill—I mean hole—of corn. +</p> + +<p> +One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and +not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania +roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of +them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at +last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry +home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the +prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles +away up here! +</p> + +<p> +Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized +sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as +though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out +or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and +now the sea has all gone to grass. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that +I may have a better view. +</p> + +<p> +"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been +made?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, by the action of the wind and water." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense +scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape, +size, and depth." +</p> + +<p> +Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren +of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well +filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar. +</p> + +<p> +Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on +the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me +for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and +when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to +some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way, +I will take another ride behind oxen. +</p> + +<p> +Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for +stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the +maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those +who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did +not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle +were stolen without personal regard for the owner. +</p> + +<p> +But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some +time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still +committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who +feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose +their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter +from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses +stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their +favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's +bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid +me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more +of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about? +</p> + +<p> +But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of +other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and +quite inviting after our long ride. +</p> + +<p> +After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or +<i>Running Water</i>. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by, +as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it +empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it +enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide; +but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps +in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses +its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the +Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a +pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a +couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my +satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset +picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for +memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow +stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered +with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years +ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river +bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed +heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills, +and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their +toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by +this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack +"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying: +</p> + +<p> +"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get +near it." +</p> + +<p> +It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to +settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the +colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the +land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame +of the colony will people this country by many times the number of +actual settlers it itself will bring. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I +attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet +hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara, +and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on +toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful +valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide, +but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an +interesting picture. +</p> + +<p> +There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side +of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land +on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are +persuaded to test it. +</p> + +<p> +The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north +side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more +than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have +sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call +the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also +the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink +flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny +flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only +the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening, +and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was +not; but the leaves convinced me. +</p> + +<p> +I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the +flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem +to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the +sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be +found about Stuart when I left. +</p> + +<p> +We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and—"Oh, horror! Mr. +Newell, look out for the red-skins!" +</p> + +<p> +"Where, Miss Fulton, where?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire +to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some +sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian +blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare +me scalp." +</p> + +<p> +Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for +the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in +suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first +chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake +you up. +</p> + +<p> +But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a +prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted +a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying +to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a +mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the +bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as +though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the +"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies +traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and +all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of +worldly goods along. +</p> + +<p> +They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation +is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up +government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good +homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the +land for the claiming of it. +</p> + +<p> +The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I +have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am +not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty +welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner." +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST. +</p> + +<p> +It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier, +and not tell more of them. +</p> + +<p> +I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one +whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and +energy, I quote: +</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p class="ralign"> +"<span class="sc">Brewer, P.O. Brown Co., Neb.</span>, +</p> + +<p class="ralign"> +"December 23, '83. +</p> + +<p> +"Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better +satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done +better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled) +per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger +vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40, +wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first +year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it +costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and +windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at +the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use, +a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the +chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight +feet. +</p> + +<p> +"There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They +charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs, +sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two +and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make +the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own +hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam." +</p> + +<p> +"The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in +the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September, +and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the +colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for +my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will." +</p> +</div> + +<p> +From another: +</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p> +"We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have +some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are +going to have a reunion 16 February." +</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p class="ralign"> +"<span class="sc">Brewer</span>, Jan., 8. +</p> + +<p> +"You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been +getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th +December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since +Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken +around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of +years to have schools and plenty of neighbors." +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no +sickness reported from climating. +</p> + +<p> +I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is +a good country for the few of us that came." +</p> + +<p> +I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the +little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that +have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the +horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have +been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and +lodging a greater number in jail. +</p> + +<p> +It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to +rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace +and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all +things good! +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="II"> </a> +CHAPTER II. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri +Valley. — A visit to Ft. Niobrara. +</p> + + +<p> +I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. & +P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from +Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about. +Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr. +Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by +sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the +Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not +give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of +the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that +neighborhood making it their head-quarters. +</p> + +<p> +I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for +ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday +evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me +for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we +availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by +daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who +busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck +and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain +with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and +that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no +nothing but prairie. +</p> + +<p> +There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be +going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we +all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent +braces himself against the stove, and I—well I just shake and laugh. +It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the +agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face +and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that +his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last +Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara +and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't +know when to be thankful, do they? +</p> + +<p> +Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and +not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that +of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is +prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems +quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade +again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her +head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't +shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the +country. +</p> + +<p> +Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer. +</p> + +<p> +The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills +or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine, +where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them +of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to +meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a +walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees +that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen +from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made +haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it +was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see +more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular +passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening +was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested +upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the +company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home +where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I +am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has +repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say: +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody." +</p> + +<p> +The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll" +folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is +silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful +hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from +home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think. +</p> + +<p> +To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to +Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and +the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my +coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the +depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately. +</p> + +<p> +But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and +protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I +trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said: +</p> + +<p> +"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has +always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know +He will not forsake me now." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence, +says: +</p> + +<p> +"Well, I believe I will go, after all." +</p> + +<p> +"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the +depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just +rising. +</p> + +<p> +The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until +our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and +spend Sunday at Long Pine. +</p> + +<p> +I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat, +fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman +back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman +across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old +mother! +</p> + +<p> +"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there—well, I scarcely know what that +is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair +of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But +while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a +great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved, +it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you +see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of +gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat +in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our +background. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes +up, and the fatherly old gent rouses. +</p> + +<p> +"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he +asked. +</p> + +<p> +"I am a member of the colony," I replied. +</p> + +<p> +"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they +getting along?" +</p> + +<p> +I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as +lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial +introductions. But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves +us with a pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be +J. Wesley Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at +Valentine, but says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, +and tells stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The +thoughtful man is Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, +who will spend his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, +and this is his first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister +that has been bold enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; +"Is the colony supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our +mission talks of sending one to them if they would wish it." +</p> + +<p> +"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching, +as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination +is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no +church and no school house nearer than three miles." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the +people together." +</p> + +<p> +I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and +their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to +Valentine, and remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"I gathered some very interesting history from——" +</p> + +<p> +"Well if you believe all old —— tells you, you may just believe +everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured +a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and +listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter +recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random, +not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in +testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about +their ears." +</p> + +<p> +"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to +Valentine," I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort +sake, "no danger of you getting shot, <i>unless</i> by <i>mere +accident</i>. They are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never +known to insult a lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when +they are on a spree, they are as <i>wild</i> as <i>wild</i> can be;" +with an ominous shake of his head. +</p> + +<p> +"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?" +</p> + +<p> +"Can't say, indeed; <i>hope not</i>." +</p> + +<p> +"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he +could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his +hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and +baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one +lodged that came through the house. +</p> + +<p> +After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car +to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement +than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the +most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card +with: +</p> + +<p> +"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the +Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your +courage." +</p> + +<p> +I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake <cite>Tribune</cite>, +Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be +able to do them as much good as others of more experience could." +</p> + +<p> +I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would +be among them. Mrs. P. whispered: +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?" +</p> + +<p> +"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing +us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after +sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn +much of Valentine, I know all I care to now." +</p> + +<p> +The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy—I +could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he +wore—changed the subject with: +</p> + +<p> +"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no +alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this +railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many +a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a +good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these +sand hills then as there is now." +</p> + +<p> +Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through +all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look +old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks +all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home." +</p> + +<p> +Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression; +and I have been judging you so harshly. +</p> + +<p> +"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to +thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a +good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is +there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the +old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in +heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an +evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and +protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far +beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers +a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while +remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in +fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless +auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in +prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and +goodness, I go and feel I am not <i>alone</i>. Had it not been for my +faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey; +but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your +stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look +down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest +to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would +write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had +written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of +Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr. +Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So +gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not +care to sleep, for— +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet,</div> +<div>To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep.</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the +Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company. +</p> + +<p> +It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were +so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills +glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of +silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me +from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating +along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as +though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was +eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to +waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and +put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a +greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but +more interesting from its plainer view. +</p> + +<p> +It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country +as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door +of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level +grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and +sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely +anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries, +white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath +the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly +bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when +"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to +"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went +to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50 +cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the +depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four +passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered +about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from +it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the +bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon +door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs. +P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself +close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a +protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at +first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a +resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all +quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder. +Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and +soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I +would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down +stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the +fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man, +with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to +him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and +some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed +with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of +revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine +looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than +of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an +improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy +in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long +at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a +better life. +</p> + +<p> +Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened +expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home. +</p> + +<p> +One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his +head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face +I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general +favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going +away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know +how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number. +I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone, +excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to +read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your +sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so +often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a +wild misspent life. +</p> + +<p> +As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not +think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store +and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot. +Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear +banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but +was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to +walk about and see the town. +</p> + +<p> +The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what +looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray +rocks and pine trees. +</p> + +<p> +It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost +perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or +Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the +Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that +it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained +of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of +it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the +Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited +sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about +100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is +broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their +steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing +in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small +amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile +wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a +time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which +are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an +interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a +pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which +they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags +are lost to view in their own wanderings." +</p> + +<p> +Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was +but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the +town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from +Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand +banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy +homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and +two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the +Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and +number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land +office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land +of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about +twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is +not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very +long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known. +</p> + +<p> +About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and +returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left +there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade +Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest +wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant, +which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in. +</p> + +<p> +From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be +but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that +direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he +would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better +view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and +then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte +that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around +it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed, +and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over +Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even +extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any +information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that +afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians. +</p> + +<p> +The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that +was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see +a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"—a block house with +loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort +Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses, +most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square. +The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large, +handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings, +chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc. +Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and +reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the +officers and privates. +</p> + +<p> +The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under +restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is +punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods, +a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the +buildings are the stables—one for the gray and another for the sorrel +horses—about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules. +</p> + +<p> +The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small +trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly +termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the +driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that +it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to +duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at +a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are +boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for +driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received +fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their +wives there—and but few are allowed that privilege—do so with the +understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for +the soldiers in return for their own keeping. +</p> + +<p> +After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the +chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were +kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon +called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D. +entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never +was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time +in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of +interest about me, and my time so limited. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly +consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I +quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the +bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out +of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we +were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs +that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand +and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the +cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched +the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys +in one company, and sorrels in another. +</p> + +<p> +There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a +post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of +the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could +not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of +soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000 +Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so +disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be +retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole +keeper and support—"Uncle Sam." +</p> + +<p> +We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest +praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad, +as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my +own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he +spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of +brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn, +known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a +brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good +soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent +death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man +and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is +interesting, I will briefly repeat it: +</p> + +<p> +Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for +believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and +rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became +known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long +after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort, +and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took +with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they +had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock +fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot +by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to +let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the +confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians, +who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies +under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They +followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under +arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not +allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life—a poor +return for such a one as he had taken. +</p> + +<p> +He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this +the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker +of his life. +</p> + +<p> +When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail +was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians +were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let +Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when +Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the +agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted +Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the +wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely +followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave +himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but +has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort +Pierre. +</p> + +<p> +The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant. +</p> + +<p> +While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to +return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3 +o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he +immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a +half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And +bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our +way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange +beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short, +yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train +left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough +looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established +by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train. +The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of +ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on +us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we +wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine. +So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a +gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a +couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the +train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a +greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Do mules ever run off?" +</p> + +<p> +"Sometimes they do." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I guess not." +</p> + +<p> +And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long +lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train +on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government +mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not +add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the +very worst of mules. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off, +and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and +then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half +miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he +helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood—chips +from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of +our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet +as in the morning. +</p> + +<p> +I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr. +T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs, +which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large +cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground. +They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the +settling up of the country. +</p> + +<p> +Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th +meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river. +</p> + +<p> +When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the +man whom I thought must be a pony boy. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to +travel in only a baggage car!" +</p> + +<p> +"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back, +and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go." +</p> + +<p> +Mr. T. remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own +company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the +train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I +will speak to the conductor in your behalf. +</p> + +<p> +The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor +and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that +I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least +discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt +very much alone. +</p> + +<p> +"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I +sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I +sang—just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and +songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man +think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then +to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way, +and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was +always answered in the most respectful manner. +</p> + +<p> +I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a +sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any +one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and +whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely." +</p> + +<p> +Well, all I got written was: +</p> + +<p> +Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy +roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high; +river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through +a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom. +Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the +cuts. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Thatcher</span>, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the +train from their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8×10 deserted +store-house almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, +Vegetables, and Eggs," out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' +worth have been sold. Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin +fruit cans are strewn all around. +</p> + +<p> +To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level +grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told, +are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Arabia</span>, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Wood Lake</span>, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some +one has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is +scarcely a house to be seen. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Johnstown</span>, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking +on a better appearance—farm houses dotting the country in every +direction. Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty +little town, a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place +again. +</p> + +<p> +Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach +Long Pine about six o'clock. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I +have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises +and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence. +Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use +of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the +stranger for thinking so wrongly of him. +</p> + +<p> +Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth: +</p> + +<p> +Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J. +Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie, +fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south, +and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has +one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber +yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one +restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all +to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a +membership of thirteen. +</p> + +<p> +I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of +seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its +growth since then. +</p> + +<p> +Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been +decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated +portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the +people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question. +Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight +Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all +foreigners that go west. +</p> + +<p> +"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number +of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the +result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation +months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house. +</p> + +<p> +"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A +bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth. +There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river, +yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand +acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a +continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken. +The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and +the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance. +Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre. +</p> + +<p> +"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are +still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this +place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter +for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough +for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass. +</p> + +<p> +"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts. +The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will +give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its +merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per +acre; potatoes, weighing 3½ pounds, and 400 bushels per acre; +cabbage, 22 pounds——" +</p> + +<p> +This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so +favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort +Niobrara, that he disposed of his <cite>Tribune</cite> office, and returned, +and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken, +and located at Ainsworth. +</p> + +<p> +I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of +later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's +stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking. +</p> + +<p> +You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in +preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services +in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One +saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the +saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but +did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the +stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet +with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who +join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt +there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry +(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many +of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are +runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting +stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and +the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who +remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer +in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are +spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for +a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in +looking." +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +LONG PINE. +</p> + +<p> +After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek +of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery +and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there +could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of +nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired +early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this +hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests +the better for its absence. +</p> + +<p> +The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long +Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself +started early for the bridge. +</p> + +<p> +It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it +is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view +by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine +trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the +table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among +the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct +springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream +below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep +pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away, +and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs, +and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara. +We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can +south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the +trees loftier. +</p> + +<p> +It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to +grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge +and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross +the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and +branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the +springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on +a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water, +and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view +the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so +romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's +winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up +by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on +until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold +wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering +Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow +pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge +and beyond we went, following down the stream. +</p> + +<p> +Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so +grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania +hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from +twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand +and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials, +and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs. +</p> + +<p> +Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the +pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back +from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear +conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no +less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too, +preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever +since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post +until the end. +</p> + +<p> +But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where +a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H. +stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon +a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of +the distance that lay between me and home came before me. +</p> + +<p> +"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought, +but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that +is all powerful in every hour and need. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come +from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native +state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large +double log house on the banks of the Pine—a very pretty spot they +claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and +said: +</p> + +<p> +"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go +to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see +some one from home, it would almost cure me!" +</p> + +<p> +It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh, +Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us +of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black +Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the +few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath +School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a +neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had +been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering. +And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call. +</p> + +<p> +We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their +home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not +allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and +promised to spend Monday with them. +</p> + +<p> +We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E. +services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday</i>—Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the +Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of +all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are +leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek, +"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs +are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these +cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and +"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a +wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was +explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in +the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her +trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word, +"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only +did our duty." +</p> + +<p> +We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was +so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can +and will care for his children when they call upon him. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY. +</p> + +<p> +"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the +spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health, +but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the +Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched +our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where +Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days, +when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the +other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves +that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after +asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little +house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and +perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the +river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards. +</p> + +<p> +The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the +Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the +ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the +men, left as soon as his duty was performed. +</p> + +<p> +About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of +Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to +Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented +that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of +which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife +strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself—and at that time +sick—signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to +sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them. +</p> + +<p> +He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far +until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding +him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead. +</p> + +<p> +This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the +shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our +tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison +house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by +a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with +crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their +leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other, +with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render +him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a +worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and +would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our +tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put +his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the +hill and entreated those who came to turn back. +</p> + +<p> +When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon +came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we +were not again disturbed. +</p> + +<p> +Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha +for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest +but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the +tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the +long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant +action. +</p> + +<p> +Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for +fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply +of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the +man, and morning came and found him still living. +</p> + +<p> +Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that +our children were safe. +</p> + +<p> +Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he +very badly needed. +</p> + +<p> +After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men, +friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of +Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were +his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with +their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as +guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver. +</p> + +<p> +Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him +to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when +they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to +land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I +was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on +to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we +had pursued. +</p> + +<p> +The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles +away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to +depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated +through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if +Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and +warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save +ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take +whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that +our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we +had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with +us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come +again, and urged me to go with her to her home. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you <i>must not</i> leave me!" and +then the thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her +own life for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone. +</p> + +<p> +When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could +not refrain from singing, +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"Through this changing world below,</div> +<div>Lead me gently, gently, as I go;</div> +<div>Trusting Thee, I cannot stray,</div> +<div>I can never, never lose my way."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over +the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came +upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst +you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper, +"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against +thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but +greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though +surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R. +came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home +she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own +safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all +dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain. +</p> + +<p> +Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the +appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting +and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday. +</p> + +<p> +On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a +prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do +hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for +he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old. +</p> + +<p> +(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of +his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all +his bad deeds behind.) +</p> + +<p> +Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death +blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we +did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton. +</p> + +<p> +We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles +further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five +hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only +remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we +could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the +frontier again. +</p> + +<p> +In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never +experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for +a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they +would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their +revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was +done to assure me that I was safe at their hands. +</p> + +<p> + +</p> + +<p> +I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I +repeat only truth. +</p> + +<p> +And now to her collection of curiosities—but can only mention a few: +One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two +feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed +the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they +left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had +been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of +which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in +circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the +point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white, +and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered +from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors. +As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to +a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did +not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking. +</p> + +<p> +It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But +what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our +guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me +with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities. +</p> + +<p> +There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be +persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet +had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the +beaver with only their four front teeth. +</p> + +<p> +The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine, +cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of +a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal +of lumber. +</p> + +<p> +Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he +was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in +April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular +services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown, +Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all. +</p> + +<p> +Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing +between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the +spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora +Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak +and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr. +S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state, +and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my +newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but, +best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat." +</p> + +<p> +But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the +beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in +June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H. +Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and +pitched a boarding tent, 14×16, from which they fed the workmen on the +railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was +followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now +there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one +drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant. +Population 175. +</p> + +<p> +From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean +the following: +</p> + +<p> +"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you +visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put +up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22×86, ten +two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of +both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved +into their 20×40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second +story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's +hardware, where also religious services are regularly held. +Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree. +The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is +proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting +in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a +saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine, +three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing +pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty +bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato +raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured +twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half +short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of +north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast +disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of +what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back +from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles. +</p> + +<p> +"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for +nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber +culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded +lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been +taken up during the past year. +</p> + +<p> +"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our +county, and find as follows: +</p> + +<p> +"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters +to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters. +Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it +will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead, +pre-emption, and timber culture laws. +</p> + +<p> +"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen +miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across +the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter." +</p> + +<p> +From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country +well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county +is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average +favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further +developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be +a good producing soil." +</p> + +<p> +Water is good and easily obtained. +</p> + +<p> +The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the +creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around +on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a +distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long +Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery. +</p> + +<p> +The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are +of a clear, white sand. +</p> + +<p> +But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has +been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be +eastward bound. +</p> + +<p> +Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back +from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on +the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new +merchant just opening a store near the colony. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so +pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the +cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were +drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he +and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very +unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a +ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better +life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole +use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to +lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift +given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone +would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat; +so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep. +</p> + +<p> +How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs. +Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back." +</p> + +<p> +Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219 +miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry +brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to +themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of +the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two +occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first +train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter +Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on +the south. +</p> + +<p> +Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up +of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new, +rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first, +until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere. +</p> + +<p> +But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of +Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is +permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then +the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty. +</p> + +<p> +So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.), +which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general +stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm +implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and +blacksmith shop, and a bank. +</p> + +<p> +Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was +visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on +the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has +here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of +April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out +from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and +shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the +story of the first chapter. +</p> + +<p> +Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I +have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that +the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very +appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C." +</p> + +<p> +From The Stuart <cite>Ledger</cite> we quote: The Methodists have organized +with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the +building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev. +Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson +is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of +Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24×42, where over +60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss +Mamie Woods. An opera house 22×60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's +building, 18×24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist, +and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will +close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received +from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24: +"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two +months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come +in their 'schooners.' +</p> + +<p> +"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three +feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly +enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December." +</p> + +<p> +But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion"; +of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as +satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe +its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape, +and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets, +closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth, +and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your +satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full +length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want +to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and +was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can +be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel; +and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all +I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists, +and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing +"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart. +</p> + +<p> +The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr. +Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family. +Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard. +</p> + +<p> +Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the +following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place: +"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two +hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a +population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine +month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about +$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson <cite>Graphic</cite>, +several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention. +Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about +500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county +during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa, +though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles +east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last +March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday +school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can +be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by +next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily +obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton." +</p> + +<p> +I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded +coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114 +miles, to attend Robinson's circus—but shows are a rarity here. The +light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding +country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling +prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there +settlers' homes with their culture of timber. +</p> + +<p> +O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians, +and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt +county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches, +Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It +has three papers, The <cite>Frontier</cite>, Holt County +<cite>Banner</cite>, both republican, and O'Neill <cite>Tribune</cite>, +Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a mile from the river. Gen. +O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha. +</p> + +<p> +Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the +Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this +point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was +completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college +located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81. +U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83. +County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a +private enterprise by the citizens. +</p> + +<p> +I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also +given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless +to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well +represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will +bring into a western town. +</p> + +<p> +To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much +that has already been said of others, and the story of their added +years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of +to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further? +</p> + +<p> +The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright, +new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost +weaving high. +</p> + +<p> +It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as +we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties. +</p> + +<p> +That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road +to Missouri Valley—its starting point—and for this we have Mr. J. R. +Buchanan for authority. +</p> + +<p> +There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of +the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in +1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New +Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road. +Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was +worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population; +is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the +vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no +superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of +wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn. +Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre, +now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00. +</p> + +<p> +The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached +Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about +100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad +was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the +direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black +Hills. +</p> + +<p> +As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it +will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri +river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the +channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until +the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000 +feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments +built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the +river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over +$1,000,000. +</p> + +<p> +But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must +leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter. +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="III"> </a> +CHAPTER III. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln. — A +description of the great Platte Valley. +</p> + + +<p> +I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a +depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to +putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master +until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge +storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to +remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act +of kindness shown me already. +</p> + +<p> +At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket +agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road, +which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am +glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed +at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer. +Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot." +</p> + +<p> +"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the +telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could +not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of +colonizing on the frontier." +</p> + +<p> +"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have +been inquiring for you—but you must stop on your return and see the +beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you." +</p> + +<p> +Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was +not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were +thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to +see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was +almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden. +I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded +westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn. +</p> + +<p> +The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren +of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is +lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied +and much under cultivation. +</p> + +<p> +I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the +railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its +amber light, making it a beautiful sight. +</p> + +<p> +Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from +an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles +wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and +hindered all further sight-seeing. +</p> + +<p> +The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out +of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares, +"It is just good for him—no business to let the man get his hand on +his money!" +</p> + +<p> +"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the +conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat, +assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the +old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to +protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the +conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss." +</p> + +<p> +I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour +would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot, +but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me +with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!" +</p> + +<p> +We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our +letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity +and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found +Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me. +</p> + +<p> +To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo +Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and +trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning +much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we +found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a +long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from +the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters: +Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black +hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color +and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet +teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is +taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but +delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features +and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet +of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young. +</p> + +<p> +It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate +as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and +the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void +the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed +enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with +his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has +always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him. +</p> + +<p> +To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the +"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the +following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill." +</p> + +<p> +His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport, +Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport. +Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature +from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at +Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was +occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on +reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to +California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers +and Mormons. +</p> + +<p> +Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their +language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance +and shoot with bow and arrow. +</p> + +<p> +In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that +had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery +man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a +burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he +died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for +burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of +armed men came to take the life that had just gone out. +</p> + +<p> +Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing +service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first +blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl +sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and +thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and +took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him +from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely +forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the +employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty +being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City +to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the +Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of +the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great +freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity +of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train +consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a +railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of +transportation beyond the states. +</p> + +<p> +It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his +first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a +party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the +cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing +several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from +the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the +creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first +shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young +as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has +since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage +driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government, +which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very +best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa +Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature +in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his +exhibitions on the stage. +</p> + +<p> +When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of, +they just call it buffalo —— and as a consequence, there are buffalo +gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss, +grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when +he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the +Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day. +</p> + +<p> +I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the +country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn +of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost +every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta +and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln +county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the +sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte +rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December, +1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the +town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had +to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars. +</p> + +<p> +North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business +houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land +office of the western district embraces the government land of +Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and +Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the +surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as +stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is +quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are +fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but +those which have been cultivated. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of +the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and +painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited +to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door +six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without +ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens +and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were +discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room, +thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how +they would enjoy it. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests, +but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed +the joke." +</p> + +<p> +Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was +abandoned four years ago. +</p> + +<p> +Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to +be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot, +I left Monday evening for Plum Creek. +</p> + +<p> +How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and +whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of +adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about +their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the +lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away. +</p> + +<p> +I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the +east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do +better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken +mother. +</p> + +<p> +"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us +on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester, +N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave +lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last +summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I +die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for +the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more +than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely +child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'" +</p> + +<p> +Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been +interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady +from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how +they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not +be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never +been without a snow-cap since she first saw them. +</p> + +<p> +Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to +meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we +preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the +gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston +House. +</p> + +<p> +I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania +about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum +creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the +little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming +Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum +Creek. +</p> + +<p> +Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to +Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April, +1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still +holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station +house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he +built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present +town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one +mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile +further west. +</p> + +<p> +Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County <cite>Pioneer</cite>, +of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history: +</p> + +<p> +"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the +organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71, +at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the +entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told. +But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous +people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated +March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the +Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point. +</p> + +<p> +"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs +affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians. +</p> + +<p> +"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte +river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was +celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of +Columbus. +</p> + +<p> +"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the +churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their +religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the +Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of +'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the +county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev. +Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in +'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the +Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian +congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary. +</p> + +<p> +"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and +far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska +colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under +charge of F. J. Pearson. +</p> + +<p> +"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their +first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the +U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses." +</p> + +<p> +I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor <cite>Pioneer</cite>, +whom I questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained +have done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther +west, until there is not many of us left; only about eight families +that are now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by +the grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was +very discouraging." +</p> + +<p> +I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove +their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be +driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe. +</p> + +<p> +"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the +treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of +light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after +they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose +mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal, +seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west +of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which +two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still +living." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel +in a 16×20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men, +who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they +could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is +now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek. +</p> + +<p> +While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact +some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked— +</p> + +<p> +"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him +how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I +can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?' +No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married. +He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take +you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John +Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a +family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania. +</p> + +<p> +The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even +this opportunity to get to my friends. +</p> + +<p> +Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white +with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of +it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the +bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph +Butterbaugh—our old neighbor—coming to town, and who was greatly +surprised, as they had not received my letter. +</p> + +<p> +We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and +sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces, +just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along +the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to +our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely +improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others +where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod +houses). +</p> + +<p> +Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one +herd, making it dangerous for travelers. +</p> + +<p> +Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house +built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any +lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are +built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building +of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then +built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the +summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a +good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for +sheep. +</p> + +<p> +Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box +nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and +receives the mail. +</p> + +<p> +Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad +land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for +pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod. +</p> + +<p> +Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8×10 frame, where +the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for +holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in. +</p> + +<p> +It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the +stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon +us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in +my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I +know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily +sang: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild,</div> +<div>And feel that my mother now thinks of her child,</div> +<div>As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door,</div> +<div>Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined +by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and +together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I +sing with more emphasis than— +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"Oh give me back my native hills,</div> +<div>Rough, rugged though they be,</div> +<div>No other land, no other clime</div> +<div>Is half so dear to me."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in +the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying: +</p> + +<p> +"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and +sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I +don't think I have tried to sing it since." +</p> + +<p> +All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I +thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes +down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until +it echoed from bluff to bluff. +</p> + +<p> +But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr. +A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the +morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr. +A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her. +</p> + +<p> +Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with +me on that morning ride. +</p> + +<p> +Rough? +</p> + +<p> +There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some +things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt, +as that horse <i>tried</i> to trot—perhaps it was my poke hat that was +coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted +Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go +three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast. +</p> + +<p> +"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow: +mind, we don't want to be going round many corners." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you; +can you stand another trot?" +</p> + +<p> +And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and +laugh at my attempt at riding. +</p> + +<p> +It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's +sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered—"Breakfast +for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill +into a "grand gallop." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my +laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the +door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the +laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after +all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one. +Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the +river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded +away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie, +bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old +friends. +</p> + +<p> +We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs +and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the <i>swing</i> very +much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a +half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to +come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To +peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight +to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of +one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the +Platte river three miles away—the river a mile in width, and the wide +valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The +U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the +trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the +east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes +Cozad, Willow Island—almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first +house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add +the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83: +</p> + +<p> +Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five +families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to +be more than doubled by spring. +</p> + +<p> +But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after +wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight +until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills +and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or +pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a +river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and +are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call +calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They +seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed +with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how æsthetic we have +grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect—would much +rather look at the deer tracks. +</p> + +<p> +The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and +cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all +taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain +cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun +with grape-vines. +</p> + +<p> +Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring +it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor +fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower? +But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown +doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt +bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I +returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very +deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not +touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so +lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it—well, he didn't catch the +rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Sunday.</i> We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and +Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with +Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner +time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen—only a few +willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected +from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a +garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest +flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms +same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is +not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk? +</p> + +<p> +The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the +widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the +north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of +the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water +is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the +table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we +heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?" +I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a +boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing +if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that +pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves +of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width, +and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of +everything but grass. +</p> + +<p> +The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting +of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that +rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the +North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the +north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It +has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and +rapid—running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and +changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its +brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under +ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican +river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than +the Platte. +</p> + +<p> +We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of +our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound +train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have +described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our +colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought +large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the +Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give +depth of soil and its production, but will add the following: +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels +wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30; +and barley about 40 bushels per acre. +</p> + +<p> +First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of +December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was +108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below, +which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as +high as 36 above since. +</p> + +<p> +The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. & +M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R. +</p> + +<p> +In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the +same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county. +First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in +'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list +shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north +side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160 +miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in +'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that +time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and +bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a +canal to utilize the waters of the Platte. +</p> + +<p> +Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that +hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar, +maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont, +named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842 +and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed +but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and +silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river +and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his +mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large +and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated +at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but +now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches. +It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must +add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any +sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for +some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near +the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are +entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun. +</p> + +<p> +I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along +the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance +as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha +about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had +breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt +Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R. +land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well. +</p> + +<p> +Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha +Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was +made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been +ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska +shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the +present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a +homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was +founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied +across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge +completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the +first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten +dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha, +and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill. +</p> + +<p> +The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected +for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton, +Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa +shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the +Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to +make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren +plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet +above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water +tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis. +It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha +now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's +principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient. +</p> + +<p> +I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and +as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln, +about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master, +and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed +to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington +House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my +friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman +to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and +that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homœopathic +physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners +live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania. +But a better thought came—that of the Baptist minister, as they +attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and +through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a +long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your +friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us +to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his +kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin +Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather +long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met. +"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if +you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile +walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City +Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I +have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find +the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood +waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln +in my walking up and down—at least all I cared to. But the welcome +"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the +kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its +unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I +was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own +garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling +stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing +but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia +Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of +finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie, +you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in +Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor." +</p> + +<p> +And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing +this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska. +Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty +miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction, +in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which +connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was +the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is +4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J. +W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company +yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where +some government land is yet to be had. +</p> + +<p> +A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln, +Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April +24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have +gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in +unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty +acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan, +in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying +their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land +within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all +government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest +fit only for grazing. +</p> + +<p> +This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on +Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with +much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue." +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="IV"> </a> +CHAPTER IV. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return +via Hastings. — A description of the Republican and +Blue Valleys. — The Saratoga of Nebraska. +</p> + + +<p> +We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making +point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for +"Danger"—danger of it biting me or getting away—my prairie dog, which +had found a home in a barrel. +</p> + +<p> +One evening Cousin Andy said: +</p> + +<p> +"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?" +</p> + +<p> +"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they +make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that +reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering +the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in +the side told the story. +</p> + +<p> +I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price +for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a +Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him. +</p> + +<p> +The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor +table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found +him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know +just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with +heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but +by morning the ground would be in good working order. +</p> + +<p> +Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for +several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county +field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving +their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now +earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation. +</p> + +<p> +When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was +entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so +completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob +Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built +railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the +way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in +the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres, +and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers +until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads, +settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has +an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon. +</p> + +<p> +I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent +of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and +while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the +third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central +Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +After a few moments conversation, he asked: +</p> + +<p> +"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?" +</p> + +<p> +"Indiana county." +</p> + +<p> +"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is +dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me +all kindness and interest. +</p> + +<p> +At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of +his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same +kindness and attention that every one does at his hands. +</p> + +<p> +"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern +Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that +truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then +seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends +and more of the state. +</p> + +<p> +A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face +was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me +she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not +expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last. +</p> + +<p> +Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience: +I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three +months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word +of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my +young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously +ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her +off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that +she might find her brother better. +</p> + +<p> +The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my +eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect +snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression +from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but +that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention +by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold +and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little +ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just +as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look +as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first +foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a +settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely +together as possible. +</p> + +<p> +I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I +had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, sir." +</p> + +<p> +"To Mr. Fulton's?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, yes. You know my friends then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew +where you were going." +</p> + +<p> +No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but +then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are +different people. +</p> + +<p> +"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed +at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was +the one she had expected." +</p> + +<p> +"You know where they live then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you +to the house." +</p> + +<p> +With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to +his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when +I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous +week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my +Uncle's door. +</p> + +<p> +"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around +me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often. +</p> + +<p> +"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to +go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought +you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us +yesterday." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the +depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just +when I am given up for good." +</p> + +<p> +Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his +motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over, +Aunt said: +</p> + +<p> +"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!" +</p> + +<p> +"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?" +</p> + +<p> +"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, not a word." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about +now." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then +I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps +already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of +what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God +in His great loving kindness is sparing us! +</p> + +<p> +I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle +John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same +village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the +year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the +saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and +baby Ruth, with malaria fever. +</p> + +<p> +To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs—a +town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the +banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great +volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber—honey locust, elm, +box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees +and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches +in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska, +and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long. +</p> + +<p> +I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to +us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just +as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among +the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers +of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says: +</p> + +<p> +"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in +this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J. +H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first +surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were +Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek +is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs. +</p> + +<p> +"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among +us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had +been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the +first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the +Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only +three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers. +Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of +flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them +quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a +sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed +to a post for everybody to use. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two +months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell +everybody else to come. And come they did—walking, riding in ox +wagons, and any way at all—until in all there was 150 of us. The +ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress +in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the +dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn +dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn. +The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We +sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers +with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some +war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight. +Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind. +So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all +summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow +bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and—well, that corn +money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500 +bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as +this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160 +acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for +$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000. +</p> + +<p> +"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together +in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us +prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle +to the Otoe Indians on the reservation. +</p> + +<p> +"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor +pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the +field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with +their ponies. +</p> + +<p> +"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from +Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week +from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars +a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody +went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission +Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday +morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80. +</p> + +<p> +"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and +surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life +we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted +me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't +see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out +to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how +much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on +the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody +calls me 'Pap Tyler.'" +</p> + +<p> +I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the +Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom +of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were +about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old +ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not +that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a +country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the +people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated +man. I marked him—fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the +state. The programme of the day was as follows: +</p> + +<ul> +<li><span class="sc">Song</span>—<i>The Red, White, and Blue</i>. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Declaration of Independence</span>—Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of twelve years. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Song</span>—<i>Night Before the Battle</i>. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>—<i>Our Schools</i>. Responded to by J. C. Burch. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>—<i>Our Railroads</i>. Rev. J. M. Pryse. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Music</span>—By the band. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>—<i>Our Neighbors</i>. Rev. E. H. Burrington. +</li> +</ul> + +<p> +Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and +with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their +dinners. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat +my dinner under the flag with a stain—a rebel flag of eleven stars and +three stripes—a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast. +</p> + +<p> +In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom +tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the +celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +WYMORE +</p> + +<p> +Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost +an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the +spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the +ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640 +acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here +sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed. +</p> + +<p> +One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little +shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built +homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you +what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat +Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall, +Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of +their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising +western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on +Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The +heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a +feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool +and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon +almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush, +or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day." +</p> + +<p> +It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will +shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake. +</p> + +<p> +The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is +a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but +one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and +south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two +miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it +with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary. +</p> + +<p> +Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue +on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six +miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another +creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800, +on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and +west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the +agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at +the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied. +</p> + +<p> +A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency." +It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the +30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a +"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I +felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so +desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting +posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the +head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and +hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little +ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy +hunting-ground." +</p> + +<p> +This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other +tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new +home in the Indian Territory. +</p> + +<p> +The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in +places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see +Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun +was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska +breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until +the stars were shining. +</p> + +<p> +For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw +working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached +to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and +the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans; +minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking +these days when it says 100° in the shade, cool, and if you can't take +them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not +do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled +over and broke the bulb. +</p> + +<p> +There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came +in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a +cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or +two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and +shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner +of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie +and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> +train, July 5th. +</p> + +<p> +I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all +crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such +a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these +dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as +though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and +friends. +</p> + +<p> +Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and +nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and +now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy +meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of +the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along: +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ODELL, +</p> + +<p> +A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet +well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent +the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the +Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins +hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's +planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with +bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark +muddy water that covers the bottom. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +DILLER, +</p> + +<p> +A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing +platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and +grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is +running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +INDIAN CREEK. +</p> + +<p> +Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now +just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill +killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they +were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for +thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly +defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his +hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill +from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer +used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians, +and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The +stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place, +and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ENDICOTT, +</p> + +<p> +A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the +centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing +through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear +door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +REYNOLDS, +</p> + +<p> +A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good +homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so +good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the +hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in +bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is +running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why +Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the +left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I +do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence. +Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor +looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of +cattle grazing. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +HUBBELL. +</p> + +<p> +Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power; +only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall +wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county, +which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of +Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have +since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five, +wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in +this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in +hand, and was referred to —— —— for information, who asked— +</p> + +<p> +"Are you writing for the <cite>Inter Ocean</cite>?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied. +</p> + +<p> +"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a +lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their +publication." +</p> + +<p> +I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work. +</p> + +<p> +We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls +county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old +schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking +since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me +to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard +some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand, +gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just +beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that +points its spire heavenward through his labors. +</p> + +<p> +The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all +the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the +friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three +little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the +beauties of the "Garden of the West." +</p> + +<p> +The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we +cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling, +and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land, +with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The +prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our +portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower. +While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a +faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier. +They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves +sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing. +</p> + +<p> +Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to +think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these +great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a +weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is +almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make +one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of +black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with +Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some +years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk +house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a +wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs +when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in +any direction. +</p> + +<p> +I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky +waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and +go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay +with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one +who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have +you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I +was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I +<i>must</i> go, and sunset saw me off. +</p> + +<p> +All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge +I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough—sandy bed and banks, +trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there +only in wet weather. +</p> + +<p> +I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles +north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for +several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean +passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks +of the Republican. +</p> + +<p> +So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will +know what they are. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +SUPERIOR +</p> + +<p> +Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The +Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not +catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I +thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not +understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much +emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on the +beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains he +has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I <i>just love</i> +to go fossiling! Don't you <i>love</i> to go fossiling, Miss?" +</p> + +<p> +"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know +it is just too <i>lovely</i> for <i>anything</i>." +</p> + +<p> +It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern +people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not +tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers, +and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I +went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next +morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine +and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on +all of the three railroads. +</p> + +<p> +I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have +always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive, +and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his +engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great +throbbing heart of the Centennial—the Corliss engine, excited my +admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the +Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore +with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and +all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned +to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at +Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a +ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long +wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the +fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the +window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that +amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a +minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my +impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was +there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I +appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola. +</p> + +<p> +"Fourteen miles," was the reply. +</p> + +<p> +Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the +engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a +bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and +let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the +wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place. +When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they +had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen +minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as +he did so, asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Well, did they go pretty fast?" +</p> + +<p> +"I don't know, did they?" I replied. +</p> + +<p> +I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at +McCook. +</p> + +<p> +After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the +seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the +railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the +little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a +population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks +of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of +the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up +with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place +I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford, +Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first +house was built in June, '82. +</p> + +<p> +I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of +the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is +seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the +appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame +house, build one that will look well at a distance. +</p> + +<p> +Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried +from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and +located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at +a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook +<cite>Tribune</cite>, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then +in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near +which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed +through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained +from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as +has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained, +and brick is cheaper than in the east. +</p> + +<p> +From a copy of the Daily <cite>Tribune</cite>, I read a long list of +business firms and professional cards, and finished with, "<i>no +saloons</i>." +</p> + +<p> +The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics +worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given +the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called +upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from +home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the +east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the +east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook. +I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the +Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She +told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the +ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general. +</p> + +<p> +"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found +in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few +days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can +and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an +engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without +seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this +road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness +that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to +point out all that was of interest, along the way." +</p> + +<p> +The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops, +with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken +claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought +80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the +homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough +to go into stock-raising. +</p> + +<p> +This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western +part of Hitchcock county. +</p> + +<p> +Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight +counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The +40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the +Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is +easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well +sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south. +These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood, +and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly +populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone, +the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty +of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and +will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go. +</p> + +<p> +A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado, +are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand, +and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side +and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by +the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was. +</p> + +<p> +The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond +lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does +not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars +in all shapes and little islands of green—there it winds to the south +and is lost to sight—herds of cattle—corn field—river again with +willow fringed bank—cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand, +or they would not be there long—river gone again—tall willow +grove—wire fencing—creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width. +Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles +long, and cattle grazing in it—all fenced in until we reach +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +INDIANOLA, +</p> + +<p> +one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was +surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was +slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400 +inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses' +from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and +school house—great herd of cattle—wilderness of sunflowers turning +their bright faces to the sun—now nothing but grass—corral made of +logs—corn and potatoes—out of the old sod into the nice new +frame—river beautifully wooded—valley about four miles wide from +bluff to bluff—dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at +home—board fence. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +CAMBRIDGE. +</p> + +<p> +Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring +mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose +shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple +shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers. +</p> + +<p> +Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo +wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ARAPAHOE. +</p> + +<p> +Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and +bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on +their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern +point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty +miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that +neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are +two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was +platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in +sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them! +didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in +very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream +no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its +banks. River close; trees—there, it and the trees are both gone south. +Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +OXFORD. +</p> + +<p> +Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north; +town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a +Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for +mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and +cattle, cattle—What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out +west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan +county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small +towns, but will not be so long. +</p> + +<p> +Here we are at +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ORLEANS. +</p> + +<p> +A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the +north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before +me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her +company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream +called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which +the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the +town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and +for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their +right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles +east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400 +of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county +seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its +interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land. +Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land; +large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old +sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ALMA. +</p> + +<p> +Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the +table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the +county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town. +</p> + +<p> +That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near +Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the +interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her +fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only +passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove +the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other +talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +REPUBLICAN CITY. +</p> + +<p> +Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400. +Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would +be more plenty. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +NAPONEE. +</p> + +<p> +Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in +sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Bloomington</span>—the "Highland City"—the county seat of Franklin +county, and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful +valley, nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public +buildings, and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian +churches, a large Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, +a large creamery, and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians +are excellent judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch +of country, although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The +Pawnees were the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I +do not wonder that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown +into a grand possession for their white brothers. +</p> + +<p> +I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half +and use a dash for the rest of the words cor—, pota—, bush—, tre—, +riv—. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that +wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a +good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it +came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre— or bus—; +well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive +roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the +river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have +ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for +awhile, and just then you haven't. +</p> + +<p> +But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at +<span class="sc">Franklin</span>, a real good solid town. First house built July, +1879. I never can guess how many people live in a town by looking at it +from a car window. How do I know how many there are at work in the +creamery, flouring mill, and woolen factory? And how many pupils are +studying in the Franklin Academy, a fine two-story building erected by +the Republican Valley Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? +First term opened Dec. 6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is +$12,000, and they propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and +seven students have been enrolled during the present term. And how many +little boys and girls in the common school building? or how many are in +their nicely painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and +dug-outs in the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of +the ground? It takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds +of houses to make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, +oats, millet, broom corn, and all <i>sich</i>—good all the way along +this valley. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +RIVERTON. +</p> + +<p> +A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in +ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M. +Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to +$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great +fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now; +there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of +the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the +Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it +brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the +bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes" +and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One +minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as +though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a +direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile. +Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has +stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed! +Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles +away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +RED CLOUD! +</p> + +<p> +Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud, +I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams +were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I +stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad; +first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that +hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my +foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new +moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the +Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking +up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a +rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last +came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes +into a silent prayer: +</p> + +<p> +"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!" +</p> + +<p> +I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage, +enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me +into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant +lady, and soon I was listening to the following story: +</p> + +<p> +"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers, +and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which +much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other +settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several +settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently +visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for +taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people +stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of +logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first +winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in +the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this +spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but +was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on +the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and +as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also +plenty of elk, antelope, and deer. +</p> + +<p> +"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in +my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes +polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the +summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer +county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72, +and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe." +</p> + +<p> +The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told +of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I +could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he +is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo +meat hung to the ceiling, and added: +</p> + +<p> +"I spent many a happy day there." +</p> + +<p> +Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving +well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a +dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden +even by the most humble abode. +</p> + +<p> +The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same +as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and +have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's +children. +</p> + +<p> +When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said: +</p> + +<p> +"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as +Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness, +for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in +the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days +and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery—her native +state. +</p> + +<p> +The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing +the surrounding beauties of their home. +</p> + +<p> +"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years +ago—fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some +think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while +Mrs. G. says: +</p> + +<p> +"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if +I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in +the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and +phaeton to take me to the depot. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming +and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large +photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more +of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14×16 +hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out: +</p> + +<p> +"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good +home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud, +which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for +their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over +sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100 +miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their +groceries. +</p> + +<p> +As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from +centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which +Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had +made that he paid for in years of service to his country. +</p> + +<p> +When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450 +inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the +B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster +county, and surrounded by a rich country—need I add more? +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +AMBOY. +</p> + +<p> +A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with +bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +COWLES. +</p> + +<p> +Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to +be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I +feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling +to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another +how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic +thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will +cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he +wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more +than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes +and groves of trees. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +BLUE HILL. +</p> + +<p> +A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that +blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy +life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers +with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by +only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and +smiles upon me even here. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>Bloom, little flower, all the way along,</div> +<div>Sing to us travelers your own quiet song,</div> +<div>Speak to us softly, gently, and low,</div> +<div>Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know?</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick. +</p> + +<p> +This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it +so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of +trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of +the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +AYR +</p> + +<p> +Was but a small town, so we go on to <span class="sc">Hastings</span>, a town of over +5,000 inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six +miles west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The +B. & M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it +was not a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. +Joe & Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point +in the following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W. +Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors +of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same +year, the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, +the salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the +state for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is +nicely built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from +fires. I notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep +here. The surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking +good. +</p> + +<p> +Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are +all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all. +I notice the churches are well attended. +</p> + +<p> +A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and, +as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better +my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken +stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that +condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I +cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good +young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was +intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any +one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such +a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as +this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he +passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all +for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most +insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is +Sunday. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +CRETE. +</p> + +<p> +Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue +river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant, +shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy +retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre +of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds +of the N.S.S.A.A. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +LINCOLN. +</p> + +<p> +Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to +watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when +I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking +through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind +upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I +didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he +had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am +only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him +I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for +me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my +friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I +thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had +a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on. +After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one +of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them +another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as +they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday.</i> Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without +it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your +baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about +it." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for +this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had." +"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would +replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and +button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will +never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never +replace. No, I <i>must</i> not lose it!" And then I stole away and went +to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that +help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and +as I prayed this lesson came to me—How alarmed I am over the loss of a +little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when +so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and +each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read +and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things. +And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten. +</p> + +<p> +I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good, +nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would +just take a good cry over it, and—but won't I hug my dusty satchels if +I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I +supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for +me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own. +</p> + +<p> +So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie +took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the +nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so +slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But +I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a +minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the +depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble, +but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the +faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I +turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage, +little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my +fan. "Oh dear, I am <i>so</i> glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my +satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to +give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting +attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch +my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to +do better.—I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a +thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the +Republican valley, and then about my baggage. +</p> + +<p> +"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old +lady, and must go and see to it." +</p> + +<p> +When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both +gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?" +</p> + +<p> +"Nothing; I did not know you had found it." +</p> + +<p> +Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said: +</p> + +<p> +"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to." +</p> + +<p> +"The conductor carried it away." +</p> + +<p> +"Where did he go to?" +</p> + +<p> +"I don't know, Miss." +</p> + +<p> +Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought. +</p> + +<p> +"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had +followed me. "What's gone?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, my baggage; it's gone again." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in +here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov. +Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all +carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad, +and a good lesson learned. +</p> + +<p> +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at +Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July +20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this +table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under +the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are +as follows: +</p> + +<table summary="Divisions and mileage"> +<tr> +<td>Pacific Junction to Kearney</td> +<td class="right">196</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Omaha line</td> +<td class="right">17</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nebraska City to Central City</td> +<td class="right">150</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nebraska City to Beatrice</td> +<td class="right">92</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Atchison to Columbus</td> +<td class="right">221</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Crete to Red Cloud</td> +<td class="right">150</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Table Rock to Wymore</td> +<td class="right">38</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Hastings to Culbertson</td> +<td class="right">171</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Denver Extension</td> +<td class="right">244</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford</td> +<td class="right">77</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Chester to Hebron</td> +<td class="right">12</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>DeWitt to West Line</td> +<td class="right">25</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Odell to Washington, Kan.</td> +<td class="right">26</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nemaha to Salem</td> +<td class="right">18</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the +C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous +"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between +Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management, +tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are +entirely avoided. +</p> + +<p> +P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at +the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent, +while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R. +Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct +all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His +thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having +spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for +this office. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +MILFORD. +</p> + +<p> +"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue" +river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of +thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and +sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr. +Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I +was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs. +Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who +located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in +'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by +the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town +that afterward grew up about him. +</p> + +<p> +Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made +very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land +of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through +the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers +and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the +common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due +west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr. +Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is +now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies. +Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes +and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a +log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A +saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at +hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his +flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none +other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of +the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs. +Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from +her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were +competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and +I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a +broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away +captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was +very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it. +</p> + +<p> +In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies +high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then +winding down canyon Seata, <i>little</i> canyon, we crossed the River +to the Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, +hickory, and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines—one +we measured being sixteen inches in circumference—while a cottonwood +measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor +where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the +Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its +shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But +pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling +Springs." +</p> + +<p> +Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring +flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay +into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes, +but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened +rock. +</p> + +<p> +The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine +for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the +running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house +in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in +'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and +gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley +<cite>Record</cite>." Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the +"<cite>Congregational News</cite>" in '78. +</p> + +<p> +The "Milford <cite>Ozone</cite>" is the leading organ of the day, so named +for the health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy. +</p> + +<p> +A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as +postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via +Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J. +H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was +established. +</p> + +<p> +The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a +large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of +300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross +the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a +view of the new town of <span class="sc">East Milford</span> laid out on an eighty +acre plot that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It +is a private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly +favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of +the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside +home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot +and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet +found in Nebraska. +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="V"> </a> +CHAPTER V. +</h2> + +<p class="ctrsmallchpt"> +NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL. +</p> + + +<p> +Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived +from the Indian <i>ne</i> (water) and <i>bras</i> (shallow), and means +shallow water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to +208 from north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that +lie between parallels 40° and 43° north latitude, and 18° and 27° west +longitude. +</p> + +<p> +The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the +original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only +herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854, +"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made +it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for +its motto "<i>Equality before the Law</i>." +</p> + +<p> +The governors of Nebraska territory were: +</p> + +<ul> +<li>Francis Burt, 1854.</li> +<li>T. B. Cuming, 1854-5.</li> +<li>Mark W. Izard, 1855-8.</li> +<li>W. A. Richardson, 1858.</li> +<li>J. S. Morton, 1858-9.</li> +<li>Samuel W. Black, 1859-61.</li> +<li>Alvin Saunders, 1861-6.</li> +<li>David Butler, 1866-7.</li> +</ul> + +<p> +Of the state— +</p> + +<ul> +<li>David Butler, 1867-71.</li> +<li>William H. James, 1871-3.</li> +<li>Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5.</li> +<li>Silas Garber, 1875-9.</li> +<li>Albinus Nance, 1879-83.</li> +<li>James W. Dawes, 1883.</li> +</ul> + +<p> +Allow me to quote from the <cite>Centennial Gazetteer of United +States</cite>: +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">Surface.</span>—Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends +along the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down +toward the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. +There are no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed +mountains. The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous +loam, which is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in +deeply eroded valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest +fertility, which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, +ash, and other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. +Late surveys establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom +lands is from 13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres. +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">The climate</span> of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of +other states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The +mean annual temperature varies from 47° in the northern sections to 57° +in the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part +of the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the +westerly winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress +the thermometer to 20° and sometimes 30° below zero; while in the +summer a temperature of 100° and over is not unusual. In the southern +tier of counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76¼°, and of +winter, 30½°. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 +inches) falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall +steadily decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the +western counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the +state. +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">Population.</span>—Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and +in 1870, 122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, +including 18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population +numbered 30,748. +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">Education.</span>—Nebraska has more organized schools, more school +houses, and those of a superior character; more money invested in +buildings, books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the +same age. The land endowed for the public schools embraces +one-eighteenth of the entire area of the state—2,623,080 acres." The +school lands are sold at not less than seven dollars per acre, which +will yield a fund of not less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from +six to ten per cent interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. +The principal is invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished +while the interest and income alone is used. +</p> + +<p> +The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly +supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable +and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in +Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the +Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength. +The Catholic church is fully represented. +</p> + +<p> +The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest +percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second. +Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania: +</p> + +<p> +Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write; +Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write. +Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891. +</p> + +<p> +Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United +States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of +the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at +the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its +salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the +air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low +temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong, +cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but +17°, and of the summer 70°. +</p> + +<p> +I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in +general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern +people. +</p> + +<p> +Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not +accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year—since +which time there has been rapid developments—will speak volumes for +the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union. +</p> + +<p> +The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an +increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828 +in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933 +to 452,542, nearly four-fold. +</p> + +<p> +The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its +capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a +population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square +mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a +population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would +have 17,480,000 people. +</p> + +<p> +The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874 +to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per +year. In 1883 there was raised in the state: +</p> + +<table summary="Grain product"> +<tr> +<td>Wheat</td> +<td class="right">27,481,300.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Corn</td> +<td class="right">101,276,000.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Oats</td> +<td class="right">21,630,000.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has +prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up +to Nov. 13, 1883: +</p> + +<table summary="Crop reports"> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Corn, yield per acre</td> +<td class="right">41 bushels.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">85 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Potatoes, Irish</td> +<td class="right">147 bushels.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">109 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Potatoes, sweet</td> +<td class="right">114 bushels.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">111 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Hay, average tame and wild</td> +<td class="right">2 tons per a.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">107 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Sorghum, yield per acre</td> +<td class="right">119 gallons.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Grapes, yield and quality</td> +<td class="right">88 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Apples, yield and quality</td> +<td class="right">97 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Pears, yield and quality</td> +<td class="right">52 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Condition of orchards</td> +<td class="right">100 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Spring wheat threshed at date</td> +<td class="right">82 per cent.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for +market, Dec. 1. +</p> + +<p> +In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a +total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised +annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and +250,000 sheep. +</p> + +<p> +The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring +the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000 +inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into +the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor +dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done +by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence. +</p> + +<p> +During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven +intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the +least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the +state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a +population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women. +</p> + +<p> +"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own +at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or +proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall +come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her +husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall +remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage, +and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for +his debts. +</p> + +<p> +"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt +contracted by the wife before marriage." +</p> + +<p> +The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail +transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two +years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was +about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations +were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft. +Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.; +Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers +left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month; +carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two +years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from +St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in +sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now +Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad. +</p> + +<p> +I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising +people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that +enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new +country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after +while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of +ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west +by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a +strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to +learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept +and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear +great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the +forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their +children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has +furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good +idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day, +and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general +hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska +could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +LINCOLN. +</p> + +<p> +In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at +Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of +State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and +locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present +<i>capital</i> site was chosen—then a wild waste of grasses, where a +few scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that +once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster +post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the +Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide" +between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and +broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public +buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom +Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state, +a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and +founded a paper town and called it Lancaster. +</p> + +<p> +The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was +as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the +state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all +the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the +commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the +summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer, +which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few +and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale +of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he +received his wages—$300—he remarked that he would not give his pay +for the whole town site. +</p> + +<p> +The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100 +houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67, +but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in +January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was +realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State +University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all +other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold. +</p> + +<p> +The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The +post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national +government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were +reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot +is a large brick building 183×53 and three stories high, with lunch +room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room, +and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices +on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily +carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway +accommodations. +</p> + +<p> +All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were +given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature, +which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was +organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman +Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69; +Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A +number have since been added. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">The State Journal Co.</span> On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day +following the announcement that Lancaster was <i>the place</i> for the +capital site there appeared in the <cite>Nebraska City Press</cite> a +prospectus for the publication of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be +called the <cite>Nebraska Commonwealth</cite>, C. H. Gere, Editor. But +not until the latter part of Nov. did it have an established office in +the new city. In the spring of '69 the <cite>Commonwealth</cite> was +changed to the Nebraska <cite>State Journal</cite>. As a daily it was +first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B. & M.R.R. ran its +first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage coaches that had +been the only means of transportation to the capital. In '82 the State +Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new building on the +corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and brick, four +stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The officers are C. +H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R. Clark, Sec., and H. +D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125 hands. Beside the +<cite>Journal</cite> are the <cite>Democrat</cite> and +<cite>News</cite>, daily; the <cite>Nebraska Farmer</cite>, +semi-monthly; the <cite>Capital</cite>, weekly; the <cite>Hesperian +Student</cite>, monthly, published by the students of the University, +and the <cite>Staats Anzeiger</cite>, a German paper, issued weekly. +</p> + +<p> +On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G +street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and +spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But +Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in +that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and +about Lincoln. +</p> + +<p> +Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of +convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who +had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act. +Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready +to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good +behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step +beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all +the departments—the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where +brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot +mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and +stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at +the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of +stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a +prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4×7 feet, and furnished +with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to +write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what +they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read +before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom +are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their +cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals +together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives +and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly +to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the +wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation. +Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each +other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not +even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow +neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until +seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two +or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a +privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general +hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at +nine <span class="smc">A.M.</span>, they are marched in close file to the chapel, +where Rev. Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and +New York, gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and +Him Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian +doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within +prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of +their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's +daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are +readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the +dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his +services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars, +the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron +door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs, +and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on +the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left. +They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to +see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and +there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked +into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I +have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to +me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will +always be watching to see what good men and women you make; great +philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good +ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice, +honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President +sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your +name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll +be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their +innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised +to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture +before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy—a God not only +to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are +here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin +with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched +drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be +men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God +will punish the <i>cause</i>, while man calls the effect to account. +For my part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest +drunkard from the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest +liquor dealer in the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he +deals out, and that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of +ruined souls, souls for which he will have to answer for before the +Great Judge who never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt +by a jury. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt +we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday.</i> About two <span class="smc">P.M.</span> the sky was suddenly darkened +with angry looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they +grew more threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not +anxious to witness a cyclone, but if one <i>must</i> come, I wanted to +watch its coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the +clouds rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and +we drove out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck +of a brick building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy +fall of hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some +places. This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. +[ERRATA. Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" +read "Nebraska is <i>not</i> visited." Third line from bottom leave out +the word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as +some suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep +over some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind +that I was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather +than does Pennsylvania. +</p> + +<p> +The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very +oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday</i> we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and +drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has +many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all." +</p> + +<p> +Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine +view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over +housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many +beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120 +feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks, +five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk +proper—built of stone, brick, or plank—and the remaining eleven feet +are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards. +</p> + +<p> +The streets running north and south are numbered from first to +twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W. +</p> + +<p> +Saturday evening—a beautiful moonlight night—just such a night as +makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has +been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the +mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know +if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be +aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because +I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a +neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over <i>after dark</i>. All saddled, +Fanny waits at the door, and I must go. +</p> + +<p> +Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back—I'll +telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am +told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have +only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for—but a +happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>One by one her feet are lifted,</div> +<div class="i1">One by one she sets them down;</div> +<div>Step by step we leave the gatepost,</div> +<div class="i1">And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle,</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you +cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My +thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey. +</p> + +<p> +Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly. +But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night, +and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak—<i>if I ever reached +the foot of the mountain</i>,—that I did not notice that Fanny had +crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post. +Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but +she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg +him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were +created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow, +cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot. +</p> + +<p> +Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie +Keefer. +</p> + +<p> +"What does it eat?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all." +</p> + +<p> +I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but +Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night. +</p> + +<p> +In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was +asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln. +Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed +strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in +among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and +cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship. +They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief, +requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist +church, to come and baptise their infants. +</p> + +<p> +I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind, +but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so +earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I +wore an expression of pity instead. +</p> + +<p> +The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and +seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of +their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son +of Africa arose and said: +</p> + +<p> +"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for +about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And +Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat +rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called +sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit +by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake +bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of +time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my +time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in +prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands, +and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a +continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the +prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard. +One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by +bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too +large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while +she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing, +if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only +hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing +in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it +was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word +long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way. +It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description, +and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing +short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was +very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with +the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table +and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride +and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men +stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put +down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could +not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down, +and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a +piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister +closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander +would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if +de Lord am willin, I'll be here too." +</p> + +<p> +A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with +an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening +found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes. +</p> + +<p> +Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to +speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text +am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua +commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great +wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by +blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book +of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de +Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat +moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine +it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll +give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de +smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and +not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky +mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I +heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful, +and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is +expended." +</p> + +<p> +And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while +we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be +drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true +representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four +long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such +utter ignorance. +</p> + +<p> +Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been +"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye. +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="VI"> </a> +CHAPTER VI. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The +Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls. — The conclusion. +</p> + + +<p> +Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont. +Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last +Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of +what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the +storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At +Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a +couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed +to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and +Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first +person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before +she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come +to meet me, Mrs. Euber?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago." +</p> + +<p> +After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr. +Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the +previous week. +</p> + +<p> +"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received +your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a +great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you +didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up." +</p> + +<p> +Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him, +promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found +he had not eaten them all—which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called +on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I +learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook +my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey +home, and find your dear mother well!" +</p> + +<p> +"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing +better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch +acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we +meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are +stored away for future reference, in quiet hours. +</p> + +<p> +Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the +thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my +indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over +level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed +over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed +their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said +good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont. +</p> + +<p> +Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at +Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri +river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car +where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and +watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all +those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have +returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of +Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged +gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross +the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be +careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the +shore." +</p> + +<p> +"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the +boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall +into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed +with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom—but +we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy +shores of Iowa. +</p> + +<p> +Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going—of my visit at +Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family—dear old friends of my +grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield, +Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow +me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there. +</p> + +<p> +July 30, 5:30 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> "Will you tell me, please, when we cross +the Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we +crossed the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the +window and shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the +hills and valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I +thought there was an air of home in the breezes. +</p> + +<p> +The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at +Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the +depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months +ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I +gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright +expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves +as bright as these I gather? +</p> + +<p> +Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear +old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return +again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall +the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and +esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent +people it holds within its arms. +</p> + +<p> +As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in +a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I +have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months' +stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot +have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the +little groggeries and make those who <i>will</i> have it, pay the +highest price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a +homestead. +</p> + +<p> +"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too +dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and +wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do +they? +</p> + +<p> +"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B. +over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants +of the car. +</p> + +<p> +"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other. +</p> + +<p> +"At the —— (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve +a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any +good." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down +to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where +everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose +those young dandies are "Oil Princes"—"Coal Oil Johnnies," you +know—and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for +their fun. +</p> + +<p> +When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels +as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew +my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take +the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in +waiting and only one carriage. +</p> + +<p> +"Go to the ——, lady?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the +ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge, +past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open +saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an +eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm +and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I +guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an +elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my +imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that +He had brought me safely so near home. +</p> + +<p> +"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning. +</p> + +<p> +"Seventy-five cents." +</p> + +<p> +I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please +take fifty?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why?" +</p> + +<p> +"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel." +</p> + +<p> +"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents +on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not +help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several +little extras I had met with had taken about all. +</p> + +<p> +I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him +at the breakfast table. +</p> + +<p> +August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of +rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size, +but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to +you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of +snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that +glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig +and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I +wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and +how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere +else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the +great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the +many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark." +They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond +description. +</p> + +<p> +Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for +DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then +out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of +trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard +Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is +dumped down in wild confusion here—mountains and valleys, hills and +hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones, +trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed +with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters +and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations, +but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of +derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills—but now we are 17 +miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is +the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment +to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302 +feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of +silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever +again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I +feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the +honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle," +never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and +exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!" +</p> + +<p> +It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience +the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks +at either side, and the cars run very slow. +</p> + +<p> +One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen +excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great +valley—its noble trees untouched—and allow it to forever remain as +one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures. +</p> + +<p> +Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful +mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500 +feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond +description, so are the mountains. +</p> + +<p> +J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the +plains and stood upon the mountain peaks." +</p> + +<p> +To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but +enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the +plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His +children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged +mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the +most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union. +</p> + +<p> +Arrived at DuBois 5 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> This road has only been in use since +in June, and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to +see the trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in +hand, and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood +Francis watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but +when he recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on +before to tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I +reached the "wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister +Maggie, and were not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! +and the new moon looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were +glad, happy days, but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a +few days. Norval to go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his +daughter home. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your +wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting: +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking +than when she went away," Maggie said. +</p> + +<p> +August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home, +through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land, +the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and +we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat +from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I +thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a +mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world. +</p> + +<p> +While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a +shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and +something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help +comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little +western town. +</p> + +<p> +Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we +go, until we cross Little Mahoning—bless its bright waters!—and once +more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town—the snuggest, dearest +little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I +wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles +farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays +aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau," +and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the +gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its +rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip +through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase +Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and +her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the +meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me. +</p> + +<p> +"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't +leave you soon again!" +</p> + +<p> +Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the +house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we +frightened Emma and Harry into a cry. +</p> + +<p> +I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she +strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the +friends. +</p> + +<p> +Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear +mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries, +and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how +good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at +my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep. +</p> + +<p> +Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see +and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel" +was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit +Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May, +shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed—but +where is Will? +</p> + +<p> +"Out at the oats field?" +</p> + +<p> +"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see +him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back +field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go +through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down +goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!" +</p> + +<p> +As we trudge down the hill, I said: +</p> + +<p> +"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your +farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a +scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will +endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they +could go along I would like to try life in the West." +</p> + +<p> +Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book +out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when +mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed +look: +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some +huckleberries for supper." +</p> + +<p> +Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put +aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the +huckleberries are gathered. +</p> + +<p> +Seated again— +</p> + +<p> +"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while +Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while +I make a corn cutter." +</p> + +<p> +Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father? +</p> + +<p> +There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand +that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia. +</p> + +<p> +"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly +turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then, +"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn +cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it +be a time of peace." +</p> + +<p> +I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the +latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt +Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly +turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my +sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on +the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover +puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr +to kisses—I mean baby kisses? +</p> + +<p> +Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came +the apples—golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown. +And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I +finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The +cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and +although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the +thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have to do is to take up a +cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the +slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all +over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and +mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone +Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though +I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks. +Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the +"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day +lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of +faith and trust. +</p> + +<p> +So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for +the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left +Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along +this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary +winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet +piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan +Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave +Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I +will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We +approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge, +about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the +whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The +river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet +deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225 +feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch +only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing +quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the +bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south +we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the +train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again. +Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and +see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more +favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly +by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I +am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of +the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet +of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our +view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can +do justice to Niagara Falls. +</p> + +<p> +I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or +leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil +is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy. +</p> + +<p> +A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New +York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected +farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit +river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only +see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to +the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not +get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday +morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five +days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some +of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the +people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good +old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of +the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of +vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering +up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought, +Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and +earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln +Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright +day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the +panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything +about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to +corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look +for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that +I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among +the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked +upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the +artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday +morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the +Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over +the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go +over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I +left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road +that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land +in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the +Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is +night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view. +Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it +is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the +Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln, +arriving there at 12 <span class="smc">M.</span> March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's +again just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and +my welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home +with them during my stay in Lincoln. +</p> + +<p> +My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr. +Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms +satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year +from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book +began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of +it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of +hard labor. +</p> + +<p> +How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work, +kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of +discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying: +</p> + +<p> +"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the +labor it involves." +</p> + +<p> +"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work +cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden +in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all +through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put +it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at +the last." +</p> + +<p> +"Did He forsake me," do you ask? +</p> + +<p> +"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in +Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their +name down without hesitation. +</p> + +<p> +"What security do you want of me?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book." +</p> + +<p> +"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many +prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands +would be reached out to me." +</p> + +<p> +"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so +keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged." +</p> + +<p> +I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it +to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his +confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness +such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday, May 9th.</i> I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my +dear aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father +spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome +me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was +afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the +water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said: +"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just +now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me +this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of +sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84 +with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue. +</p> + +<p> +"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up +to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror +of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth. +</p> + +<p> +The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the +sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the +leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other +May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my +May-day in the old familiar places. +</p> + +<p> +Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford, +and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction, +friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I +thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish." +</p> + +<p> +And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in <i>my</i> "Diary +of a Minister's Wife," I bid you <span class="sc">Good-Bye</span>. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<div class="image"><img width="600" height="417" src="images/map.jpg" alt="map"> +<p class="caption"> +FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R. +AND CONNECTIONS,<br>TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<br> +<div class="tn"> +<p class="ctr"> +Transcriber's Note: +</p> + +<p> +Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. +</p> + +<p> +Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have been retained as +printed. +</p> +</div> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/44688-h/images/001.jpg b/44688-h/images/001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0bac4ab --- /dev/null +++ b/44688-h/images/001.jpg diff --git a/44688-h/images/cover.jpg b/44688-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f4de52 --- /dev/null +++ b/44688-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/44688-h/images/map.jpg b/44688-h/images/map.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ed423c --- /dev/null +++ b/44688-h/images/map.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad00dc7 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #44688 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44688) diff --git a/old/44688-8.txt b/old/44688-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c10609e --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44688-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7266 @@ +Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: To and Through Nebraska + +Author: Frances I. Sims Fulton + +Release Date: January 17, 2014 [EBook #44688] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected +without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have +been retained as printed. Words printed in italics are noted with +underscores: _italics_. + + + + +TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA. + + +BY + +A Pennsylvania Girl. + +THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT TRUTH +IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS, +WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG +JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO + +_The Author_, + +FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON. + + +LINCOLN, NEB. +JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS, +1884. + + + + +A WORD TO THE READER. + + +If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual +Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and +triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and +valleys, read Chapter I. + +Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, Chapter II. + +Of the great Platte valley, Chapter III. + +Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, Chapter IV. + +Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and +liquor laws, and Capital, Chapter V. + +If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the +world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, Chapter VI. + + +And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand _just +why_ this little book--if such it may be called, came to be written. +We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a +Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it +more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown +in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned +lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give +everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch +upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a +stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the +state from Dakota to Kansas--306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the +U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the +state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip +and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you +read ONLY TRUTH. + +My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement; +and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My +parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing +the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and +rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882, +and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was +anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my +youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself--claimants +must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I +promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and +intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one +years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the +pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus +far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch, +sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not +deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet +I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many +times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him +in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry, +would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered +with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was +ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his +was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the +power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well +arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far +north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go +there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they +wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they +would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably +detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple +of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could +depend for care it was decided that I should go. + +When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a +"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as +a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like +fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I +never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines +were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and +features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows: + +A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The +squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good, +sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true, +who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from +death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians. + +The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from +his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the +old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a +better life in a new home." + +Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or +locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack +mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I +had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to +my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had +written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story +would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack +in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book. + +Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross? +and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done? + +"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book +in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes +lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned +from books, and then the book will be--only a little pamphlet after all. + + + + +THROUGH NEBRASKA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford, +Pa., in Northern Nebraska--A Description of the Country in which +they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha +Valleys--Their First Summer's Work and Harvest. + + +True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to +begin this with words of love of our own native land,--the state of all +that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest +to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one +vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams +abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a +peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to +become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union. + +Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain +ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of +golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil +that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told--affording her children +the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in +until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go +out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new +homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers +lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony +for all mankind." + +Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a +pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by +Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and +west branches of the Tunagwant--or Big Cove--Creek, and hid away from +the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in +1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the +valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was +transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and +selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth, +until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and, +forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that +has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in +all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class +money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told +from a member of the Standard Oil Company. + +Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass +quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes, +with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free, +social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be +suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and +operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live +for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time +and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of +living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to +carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune +sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only +for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the +valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work +of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are +yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show +innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks +rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a +feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged +hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly +burning, which livens the darkest night. + +Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and +like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning. +Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and +spent their money even more lavishingly than it came--so often counting +on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing +and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil, +when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from +territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to +reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then +new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured +many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the +deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new +fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000 +inhabitants. + +Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And +to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great +excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not +only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with +the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing +their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil. + +Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their _all_; +dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would +sell and realize a fortune in a few hours. + +Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the +wealth the day would bring. + +What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day +advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the +"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top. +So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and +happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny, +and often more than their own were swept. + +Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they +had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces +there, but faces that were _green_ with despair. This was only one +day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is +"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But +when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it. + +Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at +last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the +country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The +Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of +Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A +colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received +so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in +attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week +after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they +numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the +year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws. +Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed +must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee; +but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of +which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray +expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and +lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public +buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots--a business and +residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of +remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within +a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of +spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage. +Also the keeping of gambling houses." + +On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered +seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location. + +The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear +their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in +northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general +wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of +Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed, +and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian +reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the +choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where +nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of +many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after +many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was +arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and +Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April +appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists. + +We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains +of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when +anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high +for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager +pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and +landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where? + +We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only +those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold +kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize +what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty, +and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would +bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of +the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can +know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some +of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county, +chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to +Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making +and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than +when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more +substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or +monopoly. + +The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done, +homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many +sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday +morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but +it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the +going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those +left behind. + +And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the +exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and +joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were +companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye" +hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving +those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father +and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left +behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by +long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long +letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home. + +One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the +hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they +as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying +all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all +just to keep back the sobs and tears. + +Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated +many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must +go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load +of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping +of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we +were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle +westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we +received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left +behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure +snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is +heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears +until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity, +even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it +seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking +back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled +with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the +cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of +hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among +the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of. + +But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and +busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging +everything for comfort sake. + +This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends, +which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one +bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil +and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home? + +Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a +number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow +them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all +the good things a lunch basket can be stored with. + +When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua, +now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom +people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most +popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles +wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville, +we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to +speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would +call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose +their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we +rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the +childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball +so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the +last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would +slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of +Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points, +we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all +sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony +babe. + +Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad +farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and +jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed +to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the +children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the +racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing +Cleveland--leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city +and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight +hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn +with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears, +such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind +lines I then had written: + + Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers, + Your loveliness we'll strew + From Washington to Cleveland's soil, + The funeral cortege through. + In that loved land that gave him birth + We lay him down to rest, + 'Tis but his mangled form alone, + His soul is with the blest. + Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist + With many a falling tear, + A mist is over all this land + For him we loved most dear. + + "Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing; + In mournful strains and slow, + While in the tomb we gently lay, + Our martyred Garfield low. + +Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but +rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take +up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled +down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may +be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who +never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we +leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting +hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr. +Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee +pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's +generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup, +until he is now rinsing the grounds. + +Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain +would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word +we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than +all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest +comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand +almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains +and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since +childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first +loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind. +'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a +better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the +same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of +the world. + +When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were +surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white +sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill +to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant +to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large +and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were +quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of +the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area, +24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88 +miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled +in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we +bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on, +with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only +to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago. + +The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a +decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around +by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing +his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but +little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house, +which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The +Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats, +being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It +made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were +anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of +humanity. + +I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not +sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R., +and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty +flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands +and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of +Illinois--rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or +stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing +everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board, +barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing +green. + +The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far +apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors. + +Crossed the Mississippi river about four P.M., and when mid-way over +was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and about a mile +in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off the old grass, +which was a novel sight to us. + +Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark +just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see. + +Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more +like a delegation from "Blackville"--from the soot and cinder-dirt--than +a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a +camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three +o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by +moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into +the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East +miss the rough, rugged hills of home! + +The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,--as one remarked, "not from +behind a hill, but right out of the ground"--ushering in another +beautiful day. + +At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to +see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer +boats--three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was +leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull +lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and +have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we +never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore +in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but +"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand. +Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not +use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of +a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point, +the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned. +When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had +a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east +to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level +lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for +the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet +we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within. +Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no +other home. + +To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who +would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it +certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us +who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not +expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more +devoted to the old home than before. + +We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they +had not helped to bear us on their bosom to--we did not know what. How +little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no +rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters." +Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the +waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the +world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out +on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on +just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores +that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the +voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and +thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be +more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast +adrift upon the sea of _our_ life; and though they may be tempest +tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost. + +When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and +switched on to Nebraska's _terra firma_. + +Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place, +but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered +westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger +agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he +fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he +represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of +Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had +just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for +"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many +were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we +flattered ourselves that we _did_ well sustain the old family +honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded +Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in +which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us. +Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you +all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm +and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a +day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at +a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather +half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was +sung out, and we were on with the rest--to go calling and visit with +our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the +monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of +the cars. + +One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string; +mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt +I was going only to soon leave them--they to scatter over the plains, +and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a +mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received +a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down +the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we +had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as +they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play. + +Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we +reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from +the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He +received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed +in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days' +journey. + +Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the +claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly +had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with +him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again. + +I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already +be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead +grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire, +and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground--it has the same +rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west +we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and +sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us +when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and +what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of +fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses +far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses. + +We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw +this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who +had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the +prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his +luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped +at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be +cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of +"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but +were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the +car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I +hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west? +I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our +tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with +the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were +not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of +such an act. + +About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station, +Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors +locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our +first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our +coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a +good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and +could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a +comfortable resting place for the night. + +We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air +of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like +birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their +nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists +expected to find their nests of homes. + +But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark +that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had +to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the +songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a +mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader, +the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took +right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after +the smoke had cleared away, looked--and--well--we missed paper and +pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown +that followed. + +A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of +Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind +of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost +among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and +stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to +breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to +note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote +down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will +sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until +breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something--I didn't +know what, but full of curiosity went to see. + +A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that +arrived last night?" + +"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is." + +"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time." + +"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky." + +It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming +implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went +to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as +ox-plows were concerned. + +What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey, +and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast +before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made +an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if +the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on +to--reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole +truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of +the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey +better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do +you think of a climate like that? + +But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales, +and in reality we had only eaten--I mean we had only gained one and a +half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper +were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity. + +When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there +trying to sleep. + +"Home-sick?" we asked. + +"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night." + +No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home. + +First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the +depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location. + +The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad +through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to +secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being +claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the +morrow. + +The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be +seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the +evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above +his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with +the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening. + +_Saturday morning._ Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the men +started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and +ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded +with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who +were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away. + +But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was +the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that +western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers +of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town. +But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and +wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival. +Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to +anxious ones in the East. + +In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie, +about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the +river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely +turned already and didn't know the town I had just left. + +The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and +is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water +is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook +and line, spears and seine are used instead. + +Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked, +yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there +is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the +streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops, +and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,--cross +I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know +what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear +what Prof. Aughey says: + +"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state. +It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley +widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and +often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river +approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into +the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its +course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall, +and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable +manufacturing region." + +We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we +made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not +have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the +water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while +the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some +places its bed. + +Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it +quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high; +plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white; +roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of +the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had +a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and +walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out. + +The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a +frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the +shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the +bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened +with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it +down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves +the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at +first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many +inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water +from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is +easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water. + +The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight. +But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you, +forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills +fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly +sod, dot the surrounding country. + +_Monday, 30th._ Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little sunshine. +For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought and found a +very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John Skirving, of +whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought his family +from Jefferson City, Iowa. + +_Tuesday._ A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes through +everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters in camp +near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with nothing +but their tent for shelter. + +_Wednesday._ About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have +snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine +rain. + +Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at +home. + +_Thursday._ And still it rains and blows! + +_Friday._ A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I got out +of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther west, +and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to me I +scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down and +quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed in +the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I +hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing +had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise +than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to +make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that +I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I +had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half +expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared +away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so +dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that +the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon +dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty +dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day. + +_Saturday._ Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The majority +in good heart and looking well despite the weather and exposure they +have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few are +discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere. + +They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still +farther northwest--some going as far west as Holt creek, and so +scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a +disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the +same church and school would serve them all. + +Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily, +through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the +colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been +claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located +more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more +deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was +purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be +a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top, +which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the +wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and +hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again, +and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers. + +Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles +in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and +then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office +and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there +was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend +the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim, +hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see +a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his. + +Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it. + +_Sunday, 6 May._ Bright and warm. Would not have known there had +been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely +dried, and walking pleasant. + +A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon, +and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the +Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it +quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even +here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our +attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going, +and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on +this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly. + +The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness: +"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn +valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their +presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be +sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with +thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him +we can look for care and protection at all times. + +In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on +temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people, +as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in +"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from +"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the +same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we +had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare +to think how far we were from its shelter. + +But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his +love is just the same the wide world over. + +_Monday._ Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the +location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but +themselves to care for, have started. + +_Tuesday._ Rains. Folks disappointed. + +_Wednesday._ Rains and blows. Discouraging. + +_Thursday._ Blows and rains. _Very_ discouraging. + +The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season. +Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in +some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard +frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the +colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in +comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know +where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build +their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their +families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I +cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I +am greatly in sympathy with them. + +With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I +feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes." +Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the +land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I +am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds +with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson +county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me +some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I +have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every +kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home; +in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give +every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on +my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own +care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I +trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and +protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while +I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew +before--though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my +appetite, as well as the climate--yet every one experiences an increase +of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called +"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft +beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his +complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the +eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and +wherever it found him. + +_Friday._ Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off. + +It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a +prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at +night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The +prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields +of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow +the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen +some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter +upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so +long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to +drive their cattle out to the "divides,"--hills between rivers--to +pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on +them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch +a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her +pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to +scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have +also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with +the good. + +During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants +keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara +country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great +hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every +worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top. +Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon, +which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole +in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with +them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are +generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the +wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking, +overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often +patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and +children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the +rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that +look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show +they have had a good living where they came from. + +Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good +education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright +little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from +Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving +Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the +country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon, +spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her +husband attended to several valuable Texas horses. + +Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three +weeks." + +"How can you travel through such weather?" + +"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the +rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down." + +"Never get sick?" + +"No." + +"Not even a cold?" + +"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started." + +"How many miles can you go in a day?" + +"We average about twenty." + +The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look +healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of +people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go +whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure +we owe the opening up of the western country. + +_Saturday morning._ Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared off +nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All +getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr. +Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of +oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the +majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so, +much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and +left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double +bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last +week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by +Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years. + +Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S. +gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to +bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off +the currants. + +Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska +behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I +think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along. +Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the +wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool. + +Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and +as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under +the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them +with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well +trained by the time we reach the end of our journey. + +"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far +we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We +are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows +running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road +running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart, +but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I +see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and +make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to +pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt. +The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another. + +Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile +stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation, +not even Stuart to be seen from this point. + +Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look +out and perhaps I will find one. + +Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be +a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it. +Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right +are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles +away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves. + +The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the--oxen of +about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy +walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles, +wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had +tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new +homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying +supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo +stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which +gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its +protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery +and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time! + +Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real +little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called, +but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear +water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland +in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks _are_ sweeter for singing +to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their foam," +and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to the many +that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on the +hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had reigned +within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the walls +falling. + +Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as +the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for +your sake, reader. + +Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that +stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite +new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother +their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at +least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie +is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children! + +Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of +the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back +memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly +written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims." +All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put +forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an +undertaking for me. + +"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!" + +"Is what?" + +"Why, that stick for a whip-handle." + +I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had +seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it. + +The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night +at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to +the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of +way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am +not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with +travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady, +though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we +are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the +few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen +all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no +bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and +will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just +shut my eyes until we are on the other side. + +There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to +secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not +disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite +crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the +setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of +the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast +this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the +Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing +most interesting. + +Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my +barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name +it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48°, +think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair +ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out. + +One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the +banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and +bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen, +almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses +the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock +that juts out of the hill--first stone or rock seen since we entered +the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man +coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the +hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help +you gentlemen, but that off-horse is _terribly weak_. The other horse +is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak that +off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. While +we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough to +learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he was +lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly who +have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men push, +but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. The men +debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and carry them +up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my +suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk +with, "That's it--only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and +a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men, +while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to +go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble. + +When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk, +as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill, +across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with +a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a +narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond +willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie +schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very +good harbor for these ships of the west. + +"What kind of a shanty is this?" + +"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't +think worth while to light up in the evening." + +On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I +can scarcely take another step. + +"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open +door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered +about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus." + +"No, just across the river where you see that light." + +Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel +about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and _so glad_ to get to _somewhere_. + +Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly +after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his +hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here +before dark. + +Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr. +Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa. + +"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband. + +"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs. +M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon. +Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But +Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take +them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to +all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good +supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get +laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new +apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod +roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on +the floor, while the family occupies the old part. + +About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of +the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently +pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general +uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of +the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping +into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said, +"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer +shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log +house, 14×16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen, +dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture, +without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the +family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and +son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this +old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the +comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and +dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened. +The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men +have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the +house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the +ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing +over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking +badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in. +Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection. + +Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone +Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion, +but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm, +so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled. + +The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing +machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with +carpet and rubber coats. + +How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and +meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river--hope it is meat cast +adrift for some hungry traveler--and some one has used my loaf for a +cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So +I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free +from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted +experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way. +Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while +the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and +prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and +went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons. + +The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the +_hotel_ where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the shelter +we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their wagons, +and wonder where the rest of our party are. + +The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters +makes us even more homesick. + +"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every +thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I +_do wish_ it would stop!" "When _will_ it clear off?" "Does it _always_ +rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of times, only to +cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving sixteen souls +crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. Just how was +a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. Reader, I wish +you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me by the stove, I +then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you ever read Mark +Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, there are a few +_innocents abroad_, just now, _roughing it_ to their hearts' content. + +The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down +crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some +blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick, +sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores. +Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker--there, I knew she would rock on Mr. +Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double +up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a +better chance. + +If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might +perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be +dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and +then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do +pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself +fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a +chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on +two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie, +you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers. + +Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before +the stove, and list--he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me. + +Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a +pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots +and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that +than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden +pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if +he doesn't stop nodding so far back. + +Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more +words of Kathrina. + +Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the +bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and +crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been +driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog, +give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then; +casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep, +because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather +scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of +these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these +sleepers must be kept warm. + +Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet +and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does +weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small +as the unoccupied space, that's all. + +Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my +eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the +oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do? +To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the +floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get +up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I +leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that +"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just +as they can, mostly. So + + All cuddled up together, + In a little weenty heap, + I double up my pillow + And laugh myself to sleep. + I know you will not blame me + If I dream of home so bright-- + I'll see you in the morning + So now a kind "good night". + +As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt +further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little +bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is +seeking rest for to-night. + +"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for +breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep +longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't +always slept on a table? + +I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning, +could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were +sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are +surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in +almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension +table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the +dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this +chapter. + +Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever +regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge," +and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights' +lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought +they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor, +to sleep. + +_Monday morning._ Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start +about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies +ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push +them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight. + +But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in +the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in +the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on +over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to +snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head +well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to +start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the +trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all +sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking +and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and +pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try +hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this +bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I +pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only +variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a +tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for +several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost +trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both +of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that +neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two +squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces +looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their +situation. + +The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground +soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near +where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared +their lands, the country took on a better appearance. + +The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that +look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and +very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if +possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept +up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How +much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were +ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a +plow, and asked no more questions. + +"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross +with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a +signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open +arms." + +And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married +brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner. +After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to +the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara +and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four P.M. + +Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home +until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us +feel quite at home. + +Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well +supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent" +to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely: + + "The sweetest songs are never sung; + The fairest pictures never hung; + The fondest hopes are never told-- + They are the heart's most cherished gold." + +They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer, +when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois +City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L. +added her beautiful children's stories. + +He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them, +and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization. +How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to +read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists? + +_Tuesday, 15th of May_, dawned without a cloud, and how bright +everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor +backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change +from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my +May day, but the story is a long one--too long for the pages of my +little book. + +And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to +gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the +hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of +the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans, +and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs +were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were +of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited +the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful +place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite +homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every +color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the +Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success, +after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house +where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which, +Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte, +twelve miles west. + +Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close +to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past +the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss +Minn to join our maying party. + +The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's +growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with +blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as +they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered +trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the +valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most +of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands +alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20 +acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is +covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of +a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they +are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others +that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the +touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had +been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a +shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but +those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists; +tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country +were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and +wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden +treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a +moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of +dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I +felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day, +and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars," +for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will +allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different. + +We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know +where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite +distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war +whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the +north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained +from this elevated point was grand. + +A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the +north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the +water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs +extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong +to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but +without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or +rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance +is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim +takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a +plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me +the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's +and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the +sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone, +to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel +lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our +many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in +places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of +spring? + +But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton, +your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western +girls would think of such a thing!" + +"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It +was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th +of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens, +gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or +have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the +difference in the years to me. + +No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and +the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of +an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring +in bloom, and I could not but gather of all--even the tiniest. + +The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and +remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the +previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not +so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over +the serious illness of a loved sister. + +I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers +with tear-dimmed eyes--sister May was dead, and everywhere it was +desolate. + +'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we +gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen. + +In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy +mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and +miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that +almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright. + +Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and +shared them with May, by laying them on her grave. + +To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I +celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost +untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the +favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks +where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will +gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so +lonely thinking of their daughter so far away. + +The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle--sister +Maggie's oldest child--who came to me for a May-flower in '76. + +But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was +growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to +gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love. + +Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears +that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown, +for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to +me. + +"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live _good_ lives and yet not make the +_most_ of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good and +useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good and +useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of the +hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and +prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now +budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner." + +After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will +be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone +Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious +mementos of our May-day in Nebraska. + +Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"--the +term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance, +and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a +neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately +come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the +life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I +tell these little things that those who do not already know, may +understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere. + +Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie +ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or _minnie_ in +the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor +woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a +word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and +then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright, +pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a +new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright +and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a +drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a +half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least, +the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky +complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black +braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears. +Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could +not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her +face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus +she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their _tepee_. +The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two +apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove, +table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed +covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen +except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The +furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and +neatness I had not expected. + +The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to +smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then +drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf +tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought, +it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege +lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband +laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her. +She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the +lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left +feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who +would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor; +labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw +is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by +those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by +the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians +are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing +every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice, +coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week. + +Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have +no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as +Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why +not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the +white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or +die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to +adopt! + +We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no +one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better. + +When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in +the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You +don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led +the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built, +so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting +to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag +carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by +being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had +the partition been finished. + +The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were +cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and +looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected +without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with +my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare +your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I +long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for +society." + +Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right +out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience. + +I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and +experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by +friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs. +W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known +the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes +overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost. +Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock +raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of +their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and +during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod, +but of lumber. + +"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling +here will help it so much, and now we will stay." + +Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing +she had a taste for the beautiful. + +After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made +our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the +buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked +like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a +prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground +homes. + +Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his +house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to +frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn +toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more. + +Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six +of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had +joined them. + +The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we +finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun, +suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and +where? + +Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to +many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska. + +The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept +hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms, +and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want +the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross +over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs +of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the +colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well +filled with weather stayed emigrants. + +Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not +come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday +night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When +daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along +the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river +and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the +journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies +dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned +his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left +Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with +sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found +for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C. + +Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned +that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter +prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what +you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not +expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country +just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find +the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would +not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged +when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt +for your motto, "What _others_ have done _I_ can do." Allow me to give +you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any of the +colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the disadvantages +of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April of '79 I came +to this country to look up a home where I could have good cattle range. +When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs crosswise to +look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further west, but +returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help of a young +man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was under roof. +While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made garden. We +then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and came back +in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two months' supply +of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than Keya Paha, +thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, was about +the nearest house. + +"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon +had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his +reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail, +that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to +come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose +reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number +together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the +government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat, +and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is +worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is +strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them +right on the war-path. + +"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made +Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from +Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time +it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a +distance of about sixty miles. + +"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school +house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister +(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha." + +Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of +firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s +father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower +part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many +a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of +satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give +them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on +reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters +have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without +meeting a soul on the way. + +"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The +Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid +of them." + +It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to +"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door. + +Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about +seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr +oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have +over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell. + +Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and +brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us +took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent; +went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of +an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From +the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet +strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful +frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's +dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his +blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower +limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down. + +When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their +meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant +plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind +of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with +needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding +their finger ends than was Mr. Clark. + +"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked. + +"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from +drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about +all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away, +I can tell you." + +We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson +from their experience--never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't +hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it +takes good strong material to stand the wind. + +In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the +prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is +indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving +grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave +great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new +growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was +not burnt. + +Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same +time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive +nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say, +burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass +roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy +soil. + +These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees. +Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often +planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato +patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To +prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a +supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of +course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has +passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a +cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you. + +_Monday, 21st._ Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn +planting. + + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED. + +As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to +be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be +interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to, +so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned +and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that +closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their +broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on +which cattle are grazing--that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo" +(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as +the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only +to now and then take a stroll over it. + +The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half +a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and +then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called +table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing +line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth, +where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here, +thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet +deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says +"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the +water is clear and pleasant to the taste. + +The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on +the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and +from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich. +The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there +are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak, +elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in +the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums, +choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one +has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size +and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead +of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom +so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in +great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines +that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes" +of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry, +which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little +white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a +foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not +choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they +are pleasant to the taste and refreshing. + +Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black +currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the +snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are +starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said +to be equally as good as the poled hops of home. + +"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs. +K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the +buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum, +and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in +clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from +the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in +color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters, +and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It +belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as +ordinary beans and eaten--if at starvation point. Of the other flowers +gathered mention was made on my May-day. + +Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is +easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet +not very hard. + +About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other +half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen +inches to two feet deep. + +I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by +those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are. +"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing +country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted +with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far +from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad +nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be +long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free +from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in +Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow +tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want; +no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we +will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us +to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little +alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"--to +scatter over--and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere. + +Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden +and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all +they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the +building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber +culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in +cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly. + +There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in +stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see +it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a +general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers +will tell the story of its worth. + +I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I +hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of +an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so +interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read. + +But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding +away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down +to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was +anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy +poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof +for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have +during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer +nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while +of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a +dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and +surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real +to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man +who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their +herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as +he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a +half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma. +I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?" + +"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was +before I came west." + +The room was about 10×12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and +part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made +when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they +lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on. + +To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude--so far +removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the +stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only +retreats for the night. + +We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the +Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and +wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course, +or else I am turned all wrong. + +_Tuesday._ Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to +regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together, +going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with +a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh! +I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she +talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble +monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no +doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could +do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under. + +Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and +gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I +felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as +much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible. + +We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to +Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K. +and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been +forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And +Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted +on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and +improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a +kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them +all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and +soon the little group of friends were left behind. + +I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to +part from them?--Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people +all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with +them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the +spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that +the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our +good plans could not be carried out. + +It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with +eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even +had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a +nice settlement of people. + +The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance +to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all +together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just +where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are +only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many +acres. + +One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no +good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the +unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose +wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for +the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over +the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The +tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses +to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken. + +We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and +the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may +learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow +and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up +between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod +with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you +plant the next hill--I mean hole--of corn. + +One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and +not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania +roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of +them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at +last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry +home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the +prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles +away up here! + +Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized +sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as +though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out +or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and +now the sea has all gone to grass. + +Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that +I may have a better view. + +"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been +made?" + +"Why, by the action of the wind and water." + +"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense +scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape, +size, and depth." + +Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren +of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well +filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar. + +Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on +the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me +for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and +when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to +some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way, +I will take another ride behind oxen. + +Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for +stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the +maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those +who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did +not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle +were stolen without personal regard for the owner. + +But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some +time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still +committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who +feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose +their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter +from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses +stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their +favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's +bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid +me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more +of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about? + +But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of +other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and +quite inviting after our long ride. + +After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or +_Running Water_. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by, +as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it +empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it +enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide; +but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps +in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses +its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the +Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a +pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a +couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my +satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset +picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for +memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow +stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered +with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years +ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river +bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed +heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills, +and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their +toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by +this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack +"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying: + +"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get +near it." + +It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to +settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the +colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the +land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame +of the colony will people this country by many times the number of +actual settlers it itself will bring. + +Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I +attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet +hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara, +and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on +toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful +valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide, +but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an +interesting picture. + +There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side +of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land +on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are +persuaded to test it. + +The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north +side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more +than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have +sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call +the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also +the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink +flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny +flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only +the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening, +and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was +not; but the leaves convinced me. + +I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the +flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem +to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the +sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be +found about Stuart when I left. + +We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and--"Oh, horror! Mr. +Newell, look out for the red-skins!" + +"Where, Miss Fulton, where?" + +"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire +to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some +sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian +blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare +me scalp." + +Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for +the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in +suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first +chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake +you up. + +But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a +prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted +a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying +to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a +mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the +bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as +though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the +"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies +traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and +all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of +worldly goods along. + +They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation +is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up +government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good +homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the +land for the claiming of it. + +The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I +have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am +not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty +welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner." + + +THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST. + +It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier, +and not tell more of them. + +I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one +whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and +energy, I quote: + + "BREWER, P.O. BROWN CO., NEB., + + "December 23, '83. + + "Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better + satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done + better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled) + per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger + vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40, + wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first + year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it + costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and + windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at + the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use, + a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the + chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight + feet. + + "There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They + charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs, + sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two + and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make + the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own + hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam." + + "The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in + the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September, + and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the + colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for + my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will." + +From another: + + "We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have + some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are + going to have a reunion 16 February." + + "BREWER, Jan., 8. + + "You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been + getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th + December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since + Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken + around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of + years to have schools and plenty of neighbors." + +Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no +sickness reported from climating. + +I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is +a good country for the few of us that came." + +I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the +little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that +have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the +horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have +been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and +lodging a greater number in jail. + +It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to +rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace +and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all +things good! + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri +Valley.--A visit to Ft. Niobrara. + + +I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. & +P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from +Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about. +Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr. +Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by +sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the +Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not +give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of +the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that +neighborhood making it their head-quarters. + +I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for +ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday +evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me +for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we +availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by +daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who +busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck +and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain +with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and +that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no +nothing but prairie. + +There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be +going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we +all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent +braces himself against the stove, and I--well I just shake and laugh. +It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the +agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face +and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that +his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last +Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara +and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't +know when to be thankful, do they? + +Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and +not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that +of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is +prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems +quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade +again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her +head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't +shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the +country. + +Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer. + +The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills +or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine, +where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them +of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to +meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a +walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees +that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen +from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made +haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it +was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see +more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular +passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening +was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested +upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the +company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home +where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I +am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has +repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say: + +"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody." + +The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll" +folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is +silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful +hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from +home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think. + +To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to +Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and +the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my +coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the +depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately. + +But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and +protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I +trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said: + +"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has +always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know +He will not forsake me now." + +Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence, +says: + +"Well, I believe I will go, after all." + +"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the +depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just +rising. + +The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until +our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and +spend Sunday at Long Pine. + +I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat, +fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman +back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman +across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old +mother! + +"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there--well, I scarcely know what that +is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair +of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But +while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a +great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved, +it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you +see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of +gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat +in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our +background. + +Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes +up, and the fatherly old gent rouses. + +"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he +asked. + +"I am a member of the colony," I replied. + +"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they +getting along?" + +I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as +lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial introductions. +But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves us with a +pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be J. Wesley +Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at Valentine, but +says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, and tells +stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The thoughtful man is +Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, who will spend +his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, and this is his +first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister that has been bold +enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; "Is the colony +supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our mission talks of +sending one to them if they would wish it." + +"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching, +as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination +is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no +church and no school house nearer than three miles." + +"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the +people together." + +I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and +their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to +Valentine, and remarked: + +"I gathered some very interesting history from----" + +"Well if you believe all old ---- tells you, you may just believe +everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured +a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and +listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter +recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random, +not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in +testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about +their ears." + +"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to +Valentine," I asked. + +"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort +sake, "no danger of you getting shot, _unless_ by _mere accident_. They +are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never known to insult a +lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when they are on a +spree, they are as _wild_ as _wild_ can be;" with an ominous shake of +his head. + +"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?" + +"Can't say, indeed; _hope not_." + +"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he +could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his +hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and +baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one +lodged that came through the house. + +After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car +to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement +than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the +most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card +with: + +"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the +Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your +courage." + +I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake _Tribune_, +Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked: + +"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be +able to do them as much good as others of more experience could." + +I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would +be among them. Mrs. P. whispered: + +"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?" + +"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing +us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after +sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn +much of Valentine, I know all I care to now." + +The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy--I +could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he +wore--changed the subject with: + +"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no +alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this +railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many +a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a +good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these +sand hills then as there is now." + +Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked: + +"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through +all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look +old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks +all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home." + +Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression; +and I have been judging you so harshly. + +"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to +thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a +good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is +there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the +old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in +heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an +evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and +protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far +beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers +a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while +remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in +fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless +auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in +prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and +goodness, I go and feel I am not _alone_. Had it not been for my +faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey; +but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your +stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look +down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest +to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would +write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had +written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of +Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr. +Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So +gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not +care to sleep, for-- + + Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet, + To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep. + +Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the +Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company. + +It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were +so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills +glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of +silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me +from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating +along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as +though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was +eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to +waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and +put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a +greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but +more interesting from its plainer view. + +It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country +as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door +of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level +grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and +sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely +anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries, +white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath +the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly +bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when +"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to +"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went +to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50 +cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the +depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four +passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered +about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from +it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the +bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon +door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs. +P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself +close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a +protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at +first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a +resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all +quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder. +Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and +soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I +would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down +stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the +fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man, +with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to +him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and +some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed +with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of +revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine +looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than +of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an +improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy +in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long +at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a +better life. + +Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened +expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home. + +One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his +head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face +I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general +favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going +away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know +how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number. +I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone, +excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to +read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your +sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so +often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a +wild misspent life. + +As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not +think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store +and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot. +Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear +banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but +was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to +walk about and see the town. + +The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what +looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray +rocks and pine trees. + +It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost +perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or +Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the +Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that +it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained +of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of +it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the +Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited +sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about +100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is +broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their +steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing +in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small +amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile +wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a +time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which +are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an +interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a +pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which +they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags +are lost to view in their own wanderings." + +Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was +but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the +town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from +Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand +banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy +homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and +two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the +Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and +number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land +office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land +of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about +twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is +not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very +long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known. + +About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and +returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left +there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade +Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest +wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant, +which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in. + +From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be +but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that +direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he +would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better +view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and +then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte +that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around +it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed, +and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over +Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even +extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any +information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that +afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians. + +The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that +was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see +a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"--a block house with +loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort +Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses, +most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square. +The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large, +handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings, +chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc. +Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and +reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the +officers and privates. + +The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under +restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is +punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods, +a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the +buildings are the stables--one for the gray and another for the sorrel +horses--about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules. + +The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small +trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly +termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the +driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that +it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to +duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at +a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are +boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for +driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received +fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their +wives there--and but few are allowed that privilege--do so with the +understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for +the soldiers in return for their own keeping. + +After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the +chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were +kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon +called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D. +entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never +was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time +in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of +interest about me, and my time so limited. + +Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly +consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I +quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the +bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out +of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes. + +Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we +were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs +that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand +and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the +cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched +the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys +in one company, and sorrels in another. + +There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a +post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of +the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could +not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of +soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000 +Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so +disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be +retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole +keeper and support--"Uncle Sam." + +We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest +praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad, +as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my +own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he +spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of +brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn, +known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a +brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good +soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent +death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man +and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is +interesting, I will briefly repeat it: + +Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for +believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and +rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became +known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long +after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort, +and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took +with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they +had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock +fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot +by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to +let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the +confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians, +who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies +under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They +followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under +arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not +allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life--a poor +return for such a one as he had taken. + +He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this +the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker +of his life. + +When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail +was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians +were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let +Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when +Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the +agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted +Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the +wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely +followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave +himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but +has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort +Pierre. + +The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant. + +While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to +return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3 +o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he +immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a +half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And +bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our +way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange +beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short, +yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train +left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough +looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established +by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train. +The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of +ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on +us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we +wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine. +So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a +gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a +couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the +train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a +greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked: + +"Do mules ever run off?" + +"Sometimes they do." + +"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?" + +"No, I guess not." + +And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long +lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train +on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government +mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not +add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the +very worst of mules. + +Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off, +and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and +then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half +miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he +helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train. + +Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood--chips +from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of +our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet +as in the morning. + +I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr. +T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs, +which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large +cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground. +They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the +settling up of the country. + +Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th +meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river. + +When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the +man whom I thought must be a pony boy. + +"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to +travel in only a baggage car!" + +"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back, +and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go." + +Mr. T. remarked: + +"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own +company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the +train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I +will speak to the conductor in your behalf. + +The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor +and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that +I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least +discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt +very much alone. + +"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I +sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I +sang--just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and +songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man +think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then +to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way, +and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was +always answered in the most respectful manner. + +I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a +sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any +one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and +whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely." + +Well, all I got written was: + +Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy +roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high; +river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through +a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom. +Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the +cuts. + +THATCHER, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the train from +their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8×10 deserted store-house +almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, Vegetables, and Eggs," +out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' worth have been sold. +Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin fruit cans are strewn +all around. + +To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level +grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told, +are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now. + +ARABIA, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look. + +WOOD LAKE, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some one +has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is +scarcely a house to be seen. + +JOHNSTOWN, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking on a +better appearance--farm houses dotting the country in every direction. +Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty little town, +a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place again. + +Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach +Long Pine about six o'clock. + +Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I +have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises +and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence. +Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use +of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the +stranger for thinking so wrongly of him. + +Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth: + +Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J. +Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie, +fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south, +and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has +one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber +yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one +restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all +to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a +membership of thirteen. + +I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of +seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its +growth since then. + +Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been +decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated +portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the +people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question. +Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight +Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all +foreigners that go west. + +"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number +of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the +result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation +months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house. + +"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A +bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth. +There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river, +yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand +acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a +continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken. +The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and +the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance. +Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre. + +"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are +still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this +place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter +for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough +for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass. + +"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts. +The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will +give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its +merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per +acre; potatoes, weighing 3-1/2 pounds, and 400 bushels per acre; +cabbage, 22 pounds----" + +This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so +favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort +Niobrara, that he disposed of his _Tribune_ office, and returned, +and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken, +and located at Ainsworth. + +I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of +later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's +stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking. + +You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in +preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services +in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One +saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the +saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but +did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the +stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet +with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who +join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt +there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry +(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many +of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are +runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting +stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and +the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who +remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer +in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are +spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for +a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in +looking." + + +LONG PINE. + +After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek +of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery +and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there +could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of +nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired +early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this +hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests +the better for its absence. + +The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long +Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself +started early for the bridge. + +It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it +is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view +by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine +trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the +table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among +the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct +springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream +below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep +pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away, +and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs, +and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara. +We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can +south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the +trees loftier. + +It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to +grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge +and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross +the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and +branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the +springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on +a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water, +and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view +the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so +romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's +winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up +by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on +until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold +wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering +Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow +pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge +and beyond we went, following down the stream. + +Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so +grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania +hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from +twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand +and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials, +and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs. + +Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the +pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back +from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear +conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no +less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too, +preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever +since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post +until the end. + +But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where +a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H. +stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon +a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of +the distance that lay between me and home came before me. + +"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought, +but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that +is all powerful in every hour and need. + +Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come +from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native +state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large +double log house on the banks of the Pine--a very pretty spot they +claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and +said: + +"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go +to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see +some one from home, it would almost cure me!" + +It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh, +Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us +of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black +Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the +few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath +School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a +neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had +been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering. +And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call. + +We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their +home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not +allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and +promised to spend Monday with them. + +We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E. +services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas. + +_Monday_--Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the +Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of +all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are +leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek, +"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs +are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these +cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size. + +Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and +"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a +wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was +explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in +the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her +trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word, +"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only +did our duty." + +We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was +so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can +and will care for his children when they call upon him. + + +MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY. + +"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the +spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health, +but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the +Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched +our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where +Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days, +when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the +other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves +that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after +asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little +house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and +perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the +river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards. + +The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the +Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the +ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the +men, left as soon as his duty was performed. + +About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of +Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to +Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented +that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of +which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife +strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself--and at that time +sick--signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to +sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them. + +He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far +until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding +him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead. + +This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the +shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our +tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison +house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by +a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with +crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their +leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other, +with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render +him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a +worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and +would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our +tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put +his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the +hill and entreated those who came to turn back. + +When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon +came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we +were not again disturbed. + +Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha +for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest +but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the +tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the +long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant +action. + +Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for +fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply +of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the +man, and morning came and found him still living. + +Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that +our children were safe. + +Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he +very badly needed. + +After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men, +friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of +Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were +his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with +their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as +guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver. + +Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him +to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when +they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to +land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I +was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on +to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we +had pursued. + +The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles +away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to +depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated +through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if +Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and +warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save +ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take +whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that +our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we +had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with +us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come +again, and urged me to go with her to her home. + +"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you _must not_ leave me!" and then the +thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her own life +for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone. + +When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could +not refrain from singing, + + "Through this changing world below, + Lead me gently, gently, as I go; + Trusting Thee, I cannot stray, + I can never, never lose my way." + +And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over +the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came +upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst +you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper, +"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against +thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but +greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though +surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R. +came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home +she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own +safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all +dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain. + +Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the +appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting +and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday. + +On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a +prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do +hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for +he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old. + +(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of +his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all +his bad deeds behind.) + +Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death +blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we +did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton. + +We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles +further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five +hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only +remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we +could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the +frontier again. + +In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never +experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for +a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they +would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their +revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was +done to assure me that I was safe at their hands. + + +I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I +repeat only truth. + +And now to her collection of curiosities--but can only mention a few: +One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two +feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed +the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they +left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had +been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of +which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in +circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the +point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white, +and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered +from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors. +As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to +a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did +not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking. + +It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But +what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our +guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me +with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities. + +There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be +persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet +had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the +beaver with only their four front teeth. + +The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine, +cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of +a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal +of lumber. + +Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he +was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in +April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular +services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown, +Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all. + +Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing +between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the +spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora +Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak +and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr. +S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state, +and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my +newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but, +best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat." + +But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the +beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in +June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H. +Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and +pitched a boarding tent, 14×16, from which they fed the workmen on the +railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was +followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now +there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one +drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant. +Population 175. + +From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean +the following: + +"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you +visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put +up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22×86, ten +two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of +both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved +into their 20×40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second +story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's +hardware, where also religious services are regularly held. +Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree. +The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is +proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting +in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a +saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine, +three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing +pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty +bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato +raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured +twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half +short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of +north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast +disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of +what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back +from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles. + +"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for +nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber +culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded +lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been +taken up during the past year. + +"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our +county, and find as follows: + +"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters +to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters. +Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it +will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead, +pre-emption, and timber culture laws. + +"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen +miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across +the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter." + +From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country +well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county +is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average +favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further +developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be +a good producing soil." + +Water is good and easily obtained. + +The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the +creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around +on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a +distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long +Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery. + +The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are +of a clear, white sand. + +But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has +been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be +eastward bound. + +Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back +from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on +the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new +merchant just opening a store near the colony. + +Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so +pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the +cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were +drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he +and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very +unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a +ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better +life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole +use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to +lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift +given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone +would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat; +so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep. + +How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs. +Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back." + +Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219 +miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry +brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to +themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of +the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two +occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first +train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter +Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on +the south. + +Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up +of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new, +rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first, +until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere. + +But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of +Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is +permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then +the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty. + +So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.), +which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general +stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm +implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and +blacksmith shop, and a bank. + +Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was +visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on +the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has +here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of +April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out +from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and +shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the +story of the first chapter. + +Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I +have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that +the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very +appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C." + +From The Stuart _Ledger_ we quote: The Methodists have organized +with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the +building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev. +Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson +is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of +Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24×42, where over +60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss +Mamie Woods. An opera house 22×60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's +building, 18×24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist, +and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will +close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received +from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24: +"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two +months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come +in their 'schooners.' + +"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three +feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly +enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December." + +But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion"; +of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as +satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe +its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape, +and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets, +closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth, +and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your +satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full +length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want +to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and +was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can +be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel; +and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all +I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists, +and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing +"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart. + +The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr. +Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family. +Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard. + +Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the +following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place: +"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two +hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a +population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine +month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about +$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson _Graphic_, +several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention. +Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about +500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county +during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa, +though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles +east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last +March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday +school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can +be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by +next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily +obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton." + +I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded +coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114 +miles, to attend Robinson's circus--but shows are a rarity here. The +light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding +country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling +prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there +settlers' homes with their culture of timber. + +O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians, +and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt +county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches, +Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It has +three papers, The _Frontier_, Holt County _Banner_, both republican, +and O'Neill _Tribune_, Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a +mile from the river. Gen. O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha. + +Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the +Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this +point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was +completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college +located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81. +U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83. +County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a +private enterprise by the citizens. + +I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also +given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless +to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well +represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will +bring into a western town. + +To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much +that has already been said of others, and the story of their added +years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of +to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further? + +The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright, +new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost +weaving high. + +It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as +we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties. + +That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road +to Missouri Valley--its starting point--and for this we have Mr. J. R. +Buchanan for authority. + +There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of +the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in +1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New +Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road. +Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was +worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population; +is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the +vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no +superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of +wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn. +Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre, +now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00. + +The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached +Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about +100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad +was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the +direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black +Hills. + +As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it +will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri +river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the +channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until +the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000 +feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments +built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the +river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over +$1,000,000. + +But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must +leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.--A +description of the great Platte Valley. + + +I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a +depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to +putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master +until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge +storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to +remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act +of kindness shown me already. + +At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket +agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road, +which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am +glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed +at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer. +Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot." + +"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the +telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could +not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of +colonizing on the frontier." + +"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have +been inquiring for you--but you must stop on your return and see the +beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you." + +Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was +not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were +thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to +see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was +almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden. +I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded +westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn. + +The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren +of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is +lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied +and much under cultivation. + +I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the +railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its +amber light, making it a beautiful sight. + +Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from +an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles +wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and +hindered all further sight-seeing. + +The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out +of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares, +"It is just good for him--no business to let the man get his hand on +his money!" + +"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the +conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat, +assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the +old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to +protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the +conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss." + +I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour +would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot, +but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me +with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!" + +We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our +letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity +and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found +Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me. + +To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo +Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and +trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning +much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we +found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a +long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from +the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters: +Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black +hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color +and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet +teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is +taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but +delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features +and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet +of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young. + +It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate +as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and +the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void +the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed +enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with +his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has +always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him. + +To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the +"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the +following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill." + +His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport, +Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport. +Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature +from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at +Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was +occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on +reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to +California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers +and Mormons. + +Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their +language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance +and shoot with bow and arrow. + +In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that +had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery +man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a +burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he +died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for +burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of +armed men came to take the life that had just gone out. + +Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing +service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first +blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl +sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and +thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and +took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him +from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely +forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the +employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty +being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City +to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the +Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of +the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great +freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity +of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train +consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a +railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of +transportation beyond the states. + +It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his +first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a +party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the +cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing +several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from +the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the +creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first +shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young +as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has +since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage +driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government, +which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very +best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa +Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature +in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his +exhibitions on the stage. + +When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of, +they just call it buffalo ---- and as a consequence, there are buffalo +gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss, +grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when +he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the +Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day. + +I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the +country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn +of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost +every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta +and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln +county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the +sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte +rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December, +1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the +town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had +to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars. + +North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business +houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land +office of the western district embraces the government land of +Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and +Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the +surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as +stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is +quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are +fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but +those which have been cultivated. + +Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of +the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and +painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited +to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door +six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without +ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens +and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were +discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room, +thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how +they would enjoy it. + +"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests, +but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed +the joke." + +Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was +abandoned four years ago. + +Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to +be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot, +I left Monday evening for Plum Creek. + +How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and +whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of +adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about +their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the +lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away. + +I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the +east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do +better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken +mother. + +"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us +on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester, +N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave +lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last +summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I +die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for +the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more +than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely +child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'" + +Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been +interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady +from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how +they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not +be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never +been without a snow-cap since she first saw them. + +Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to +meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we +preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the +gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston +House. + +I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania +about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum +creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the +little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming +Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum +Creek. + +Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to +Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April, +1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still +holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station +house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he +built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present +town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one +mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile +further west. + +Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County _Pioneer_, +of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history: + +"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the +organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71, +at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the +entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told. +But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous +people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated +March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the +Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point. + +"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs +affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians. + +"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte +river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was +celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of +Columbus. + +"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the +churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their +religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the +Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of +'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the +county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev. +Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in +'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the +Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian +congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary. + +"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and +far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska +colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under +charge of F. J. Pearson. + +"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their +first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the +U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses." + +I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor _Pioneer_, whom I +questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained have +done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther west, +until there is not many of us left; only about eight families that are +now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by the +grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was very +discouraging." + +I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove +their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be +driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe. + +"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the +treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of +light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after +they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose +mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal, +seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west +of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which +two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still +living." + +Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel +in a 16×20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men, +who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they +could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is +now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek. + +While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact +some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked-- + +"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him +how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I +can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?' +No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married. +He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take +you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John +Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a +family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania. + +The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even +this opportunity to get to my friends. + +Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white +with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of +it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the +bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph +Butterbaugh--our old neighbor--coming to town, and who was greatly +surprised, as they had not received my letter. + +We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and +sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces, +just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along +the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to +our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely +improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others +where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod +houses). + +Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one +herd, making it dangerous for travelers. + +Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house +built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any +lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are +built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building +of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then +built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the +summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a +good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for +sheep. + +Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box +nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and +receives the mail. + +Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad +land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for +pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod. + +Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8×10 frame, where +the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for +holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in. + +It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the +stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon +us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in +my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I +know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily +sang: + + "I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild, + And feel that my mother now thinks of her child, + As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door, + Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more." + +I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined +by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and +together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I +sing with more emphasis than-- + + "Oh give me back my native hills, + Rough, rugged though they be, + No other land, no other clime + Is half so dear to me." + +But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in +the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying: + +"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and +sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I +don't think I have tried to sing it since." + +All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I +thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes +down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until +it echoed from bluff to bluff. + +But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr. +A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the +morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr. +A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her. + +Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with +me on that morning ride. + +Rough? + +There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some +things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt, +as that horse _tried_ to trot--perhaps it was my poke hat that was +coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted +Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot. + +When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go +three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast. + +"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow: +mind, we don't want to be going round many corners." + +"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you; +can you stand another trot?" + +And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and +laugh at my attempt at riding. + +It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's +sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered--"Breakfast +for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill +into a "grand gallop." + +Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my +laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the +door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the +laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after +all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one. +Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the +river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded +away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie, +bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old +friends. + +We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs +and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the _swing_ very +much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a +half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to +come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To +peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight +to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of +one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the +Platte river three miles away--the river a mile in width, and the wide +valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The +U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the +trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the +east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes +Cozad, Willow Island--almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first +house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add +the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83: + +Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five +families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to +be more than doubled by spring. + +But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after +wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight +until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills +and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or +pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a +river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and +are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call +calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They +seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed +with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how æsthetic we have +grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect--would much +rather look at the deer tracks. + +The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and +cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all +taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain +cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun +with grape-vines. + +Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring +it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor +fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower? +But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown +doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt +bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I +returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very +deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not +touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so +lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it--well, he didn't catch the +rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun. + +_Sunday._ We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and +Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with +Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner +time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen--only a few +willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected +from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a +garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest +flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms +same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is +not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk? + +The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the +widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the +north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of +the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water +is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the +table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we +heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?" +I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a +boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing +if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that +pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves +of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width, +and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of +everything but grass. + +The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting +of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that +rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the +North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the +north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It +has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and +rapid--running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and +changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its +brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under +ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican +river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than +the Platte. + +We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of +our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound +train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have +described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our +colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought +large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the +Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give +depth of soil and its production, but will add the following: + +Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels +wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30; +and barley about 40 bushels per acre. + +First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of +December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was +108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below, +which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as +high as 36 above since. + +The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. & +M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R. + +In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the +same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county. +First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in +'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list +shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north +side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160 +miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in +'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that +time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and +bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a +canal to utilize the waters of the Platte. + +Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that +hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar, +maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont, +named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842 +and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed +but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and +silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river +and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his +mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large +and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated +at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but +now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches. +It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must +add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any +sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for +some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near +the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are +entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun. + +I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along +the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance +as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha +about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had +breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt +Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R. +land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well. + +Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha +Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was +made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been +ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska +shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the +present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a +homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was +founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied +across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge +completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the +first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten +dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha, +and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill. + +The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected +for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton, +Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa +shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the +Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to +make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren +plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet +above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water +tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis. +It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha +now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's +principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient. + +I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and +as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln, +about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master, +and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed +to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington +House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my +friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman +to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and +that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homoeopathic +physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners +live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania. +But a better thought came--that of the Baptist minister, as they +attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and +through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a +long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your +friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us +to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his +kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin +Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather +long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met. +"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if +you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile +walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City +Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I +have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find +the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood +waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln +in my walking up and down--at least all I cared to. But the welcome +"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the +kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its +unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I +was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own +garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling +stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing +but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia +Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of +finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie, +you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in +Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor." + +And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing +this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska. +Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty +miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction, +in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which +connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was +the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is +4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J. +W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company +yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where +some government land is yet to be had. + +A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln, +Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April +24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have +gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in +unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty +acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan, +in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying +their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land +within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all +government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest +fit only for grazing. + +This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on +Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with +much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue." + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return via +Hastings.--A description of the Republican and Blue Valleys.--The +Saratoga of Nebraska. + + +We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making +point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for +"Danger"--danger of it biting me or getting away--my prairie dog, which +had found a home in a barrel. + +One evening Cousin Andy said: + +"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?" + +"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they +make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that +reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering +the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in +the side told the story. + +I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price +for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a +Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him. + +The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor +table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found +him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know +just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with +heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but +by morning the ground would be in good working order. + +Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for +several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county +field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving +their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now +earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation. + +When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was +entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so +completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob +Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built +railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the +way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in +the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres, +and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers +until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads, +settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has +an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon. + +I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent +of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and +while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the +third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central +Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska. + +After a few moments conversation, he asked: + +"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?" + +"Indiana county." + +"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is +dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me +all kindness and interest. + +At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of +his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same +kindness and attention that every one does at his hands. + +"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern +Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that +truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then +seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends +and more of the state. + +A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face +was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me +she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not +expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last. + +Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience: +I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three +months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word +of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my +young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously +ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her +off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that +she might find her brother better. + +The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my +eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect +snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression +from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but +that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention +by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold +and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little +ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just +as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look +as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first +foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a +settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely +together as possible. + +I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I +had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked: + +"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?" + +"Yes, sir." + +"To Mr. Fulton's?" + +"Why, yes. You know my friends then?" + +"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew +where you were going." + +No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but +then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are +different people. + +"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed +at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was +the one she had expected." + +"You know where they live then?" + +"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you +to the house." + +With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to +his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when +I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous +week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my +Uncle's door. + +"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around +me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often. + +"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to +go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought +you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us +yesterday." + +"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the +depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just +when I am given up for good." + +Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his +motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over, +Aunt said: + +"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!" + +"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?" + +"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?" + +"No, not a word." + +"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about +now." + +"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then +I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps +already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of +what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God +in His great loving kindness is sparing us! + +I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle +John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same +village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the +year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the +saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and +baby Ruth, with malaria fever. + +To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs--a +town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the +banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great +volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber--honey locust, elm, +box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees +and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches +in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska, +and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long. + +I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to +us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just +as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among +the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers +of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says: + +"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in +this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J. +H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first +surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were +Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek +is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs. + +"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among +us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had +been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the +first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the +Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only +three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers. +Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of +flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them +quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a +sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed +to a post for everybody to use. + +"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two +months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell +everybody else to come. And come they did--walking, riding in ox +wagons, and any way at all--until in all there was 150 of us. The +ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress +in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the +dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn +dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn. +The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We +sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers +with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some +war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight. +Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind. +So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all +summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow +bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and--well, that corn +money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500 +bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as +this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160 +acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for +$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000. + +"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together +in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us +prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle +to the Otoe Indians on the reservation. + +"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor +pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the +field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with +their ponies. + +"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from +Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week +from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars +a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody +went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission +Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday +morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80. + +"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and +surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life +we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted +me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't +see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out +to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how +much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on +the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody +calls me 'Pap Tyler.'" + +I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the +Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom +of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were +about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old +ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not +that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a +country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the +people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated +man. I marked him--fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the +state. The programme of the day was as follows: + + SONG--_The Red, White, and Blue_. + + DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE--Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of + twelve years. + + SONG--_Night Before the Battle_. + + TOAST--_Our Schools_. Responded to by J. C. Burch. + + TOAST--_Our Railroads_. Rev. J. M. Pryse. + + MUSIC--By the band. + + TOAST--_Our Neighbors_. Rev. E. H. Burrington. + +Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and +with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their +dinners. + +Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat +my dinner under the flag with a stain--a rebel flag of eleven stars and +three stripes--a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast. + +In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom +tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the +celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works. + + +WYMORE + +Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost +an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the +spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the +ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640 +acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here +sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed. + +One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little +shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built +homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you +what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat +Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall, +Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of +their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising +western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on +Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The +heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a +feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool +and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon +almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush, +or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day." + +It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will +shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake. + +The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is +a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but +one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and +south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two +miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it +with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary. + +Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue +on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six +miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another +creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800, +on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and +west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the +agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at +the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied. + +A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency." +It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the +30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a +"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I +felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so +desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting +posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the +head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and +hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little +ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy +hunting-ground." + +This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other +tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new +home in the Indian Territory. + +The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in +places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see +Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun +was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska +breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until +the stars were shining. + +For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw +working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached +to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and +the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans; +minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking +these days when it says 100° in the shade, cool, and if you can't take +them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not +do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled +over and broke the bulb. + +There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came +in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a +cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or +two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and +shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner +of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie +and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 P.M. +train, July 5th. + +I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all +crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such +a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these +dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as +though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and +friends. + +Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and +nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and +now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy +meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of +the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along: + + +ODELL, + +A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet +well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent +the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the +Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins +hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's +planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with +bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark +muddy water that covers the bottom. + + +DILLER, + +A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing +platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and +grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is +running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes. + + +INDIAN CREEK. + +Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now +just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill +killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they +were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for +thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly +defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his +hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill +from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer +used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians, +and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The +stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place, +and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at + + +ENDICOTT, + +A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the +centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing +through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear +door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all. + + +REYNOLDS, + +A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good +homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so +good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the +hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in +bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is +running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why +Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the +left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I +do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence. +Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor +looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of +cattle grazing. + + +HUBBELL. + +Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power; +only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall +wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county, +which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of +Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have +since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five, +wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in +this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in +hand, and was referred to ---- ---- for information, who asked-- + +"Are you writing for the _Inter Ocean_?" + +"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied. + +"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a +lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their +publication." + +I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work. + +We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls +county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old +schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking +since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me +to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard +some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand, +gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just +beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that +points its spire heavenward through his labors. + +The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all +the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the +friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three +little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the +beauties of the "Garden of the West." + +The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we +cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling, +and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land, +with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The +prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our +portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower. +While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a +faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier. +They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves +sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing. + +Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to +think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these +great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a +weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is +almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make +one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of +black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with +Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some +years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk +house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a +wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs +when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in +any direction. + +I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky +waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and +go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay +with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one +who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have +you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I +was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I +_must_ go, and sunset saw me off. + +All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge +I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough--sandy bed and banks, +trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there +only in wet weather. + +I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles +north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for +several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean +passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks +of the Republican. + +So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will +know what they are. + + +SUPERIOR + +Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The +Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not +catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I +thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not +understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much +emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on +the beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains +he has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I _just love_ +to go fossiling! Don't you _love_ to go fossiling, Miss?" + +"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know +it is just too _lovely_ for _anything_." + +It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern +people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not +tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers, +and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I +went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next +morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine +and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on +all of the three railroads. + +I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have +always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive, +and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his +engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great +throbbing heart of the Centennial--the Corliss engine, excited my +admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the +Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore +with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and +all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned +to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at +Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a +ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long +wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the +fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the +window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that +amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a +minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my +impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was +there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I +appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola. + +"Fourteen miles," was the reply. + +Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the +engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a +bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and +let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the +wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place. +When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they +had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen +minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as +he did so, asked: + +"Well, did they go pretty fast?" + +"I don't know, did they?" I replied. + +I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at +McCook. + +After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the +seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the +railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the +little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a +population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks +of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of +the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up +with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place +I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford, +Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first +house was built in June, '82. + +I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of +the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is +seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the +appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame +house, build one that will look well at a distance. + +Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried +from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and +located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at +a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook +_Tribune_, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then +in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near +which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed +through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained +from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as +has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained, +and brick is cheaper than in the east. + +From a copy of the Daily _Tribune_, I read a long list of business +firms and professional cards, and finished with, "_no saloons_." + +The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics +worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given +the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called +upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from +home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the +east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the +east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook. +I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the +Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She +told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the +ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general. + +"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found +in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few +days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can +and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an +engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without +seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this +road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness +that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to +point out all that was of interest, along the way." + +The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops, +with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken +claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought +80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the +homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough +to go into stock-raising. + +This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western +part of Hitchcock county. + +Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight +counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The +40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the +Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is +easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well +sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south. +These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood, +and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly +populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone, +the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty +of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and +will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go. + +A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado, +are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand, +and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side +and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by +the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was. + +The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond +lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does +not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars +in all shapes and little islands of green--there it winds to the south +and is lost to sight--herds of cattle--corn field--river again with +willow fringed bank--cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand, +or they would not be there long--river gone again--tall willow +grove--wire fencing--creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width. +Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles +long, and cattle grazing in it--all fenced in until we reach + + +INDIANOLA, + +one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was +surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was +slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400 +inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses' +from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and +school house--great herd of cattle--wilderness of sunflowers turning +their bright faces to the sun--now nothing but grass--corral made of +logs--corn and potatoes--out of the old sod into the nice new +frame--river beautifully wooded--valley about four miles wide from +bluff to bluff--dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at +home--board fence. + + +CAMBRIDGE. + +Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring +mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose +shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple +shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers. + +Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo +wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good. + + +ARAPAHOE. + +Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and +bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on +their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern +point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty +miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that +neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are +two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was +platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in +sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them! +didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in +very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream +no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its +banks. River close; trees--there, it and the trees are both gone south. +Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain. + + +OXFORD. + +Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north; +town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a +Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for +mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and +cattle, cattle--What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out +west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan +county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small +towns, but will not be so long. + +Here we are at + + +ORLEANS. + +A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the +north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before +me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her +company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream +called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which +the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the +town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and +for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their +right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles +east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400 +of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county +seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its +interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land. +Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land; +large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old +sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt. + + +ALMA. + +Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the +table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the +county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town. + +That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near +Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the +interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her +fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only +passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove +the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other +talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk. + + +REPUBLICAN CITY. + +Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400. +Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would +be more plenty. + + +NAPONEE. + +Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in +sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery. + +BLOOMINGTON--the "Highland City"--the county seat of Franklin county, +and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful valley, +nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public buildings, +and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian churches, a large +Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, a large creamery, +and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians are excellent +judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch of country, +although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The Pawnees were +the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I do not wonder +that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown into a grand +possession for their white brothers. + +I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half +and use a dash for the rest of the words cor--, pota--, bush--, tre--, +riv--. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that +wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a +good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it +came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre-- or bus--; +well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive +roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the +river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have +ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for +awhile, and just then you haven't. + +But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at FRANKLIN, a real +good solid town. First house built July, 1879. I never can guess how +many people live in a town by looking at it from a car window. How do I +know how many there are at work in the creamery, flouring mill, and +woolen factory? And how many pupils are studying in the Franklin +Academy, a fine two-story building erected by the Republican Valley +Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? First term opened Dec. +6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is $12,000, and they +propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and seven students have +been enrolled during the present term. And how many little boys and +girls in the common school building? or how many are in their nicely +painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and dug-outs in +the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of the ground? It +takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds of houses to +make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, oats, millet, +broom corn, and all _sich_--good all the way along this valley. + + +RIVERTON. + +A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in +ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M. +Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to +$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great +fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now; +there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of +the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the +Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it +brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the +bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes" +and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One +minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as +though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a +direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile. +Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has +stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed! +Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles +away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call + + +RED CLOUD! + +Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud, +I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams +were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I +stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad; +first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that +hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my +foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new +moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the +Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking +up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a +rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last +came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes +into a silent prayer: + +"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!" + +I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage, +enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me +into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant +lady, and soon I was listening to the following story: + +"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers, +and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which +much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other +settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several +settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently +visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for +taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people +stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of +logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first +winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in +the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this +spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but +was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on +the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and +as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also +plenty of elk, antelope, and deer. + +"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in +my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes +polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the +summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer +county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72, +and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe." + +The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told +of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I +could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he +is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo +meat hung to the ceiling, and added: + +"I spent many a happy day there." + +Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving +well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a +dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden +even by the most humble abode. + +The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same +as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and +have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's +children. + +When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said: + +"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as +Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness, +for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in +the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days +and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery--her native +state. + +The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing +the surrounding beauties of their home. + +"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years +ago--fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some +think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while +Mrs. G. says: + +"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if +I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in +the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and +phaeton to take me to the depot. + +Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming +and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large +photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more +of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14×16 +hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out: + +"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good +home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud, +which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for +their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over +sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100 +miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their +groceries. + +As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from +centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which +Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had +made that he paid for in years of service to his country. + +When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450 +inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the +B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster +county, and surrounded by a rich country--need I add more? + + +AMBOY. + +A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with +bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short. + + +COWLES. + +Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to +be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I +feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling +to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another +how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic +thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will +cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he +wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more +than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes +and groves of trees. + + +BLUE HILL. + +A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that +blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy +life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers +with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by +only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and +smiles upon me even here. + + Bloom, little flower, all the way along, + Sing to us travelers your own quiet song, + Speak to us softly, gently, and low, + Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know? + +Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick. + +This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it +so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of +trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of +the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist. + + +AYR + +Was but a small town, so we go on to HASTINGS, a town of over 5,000 +inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six miles +west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The B. & +M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it was not +a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. Joe & +Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point in the +following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W. +Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors +of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same year, +the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, the +salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the state +for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is nicely +built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from fires. I +notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep here. The +surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking good. + +Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are +all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all. +I notice the churches are well attended. + +A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and, +as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better +my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken +stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that +condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I +cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good +young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was +intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any +one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such +a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as +this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he +passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all +for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most +insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is +Sunday. + + +CRETE. + +Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue +river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant, +shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy +retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre +of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds +of the N.S.S.A.A. + + +LINCOLN. + +Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to +watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when +I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking +through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind +upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I +didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he +had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am +only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him +I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for +me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my +friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I +thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had +a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on. +After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one +of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them +another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as +they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday. + +_Monday._ Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without +it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your +baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about +it." + +"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for +this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had." +"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would +replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and +button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will +never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never +replace. No, I _must_ not lose it!" And then I stole away and went +to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that +help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and +as I prayed this lesson came to me--How alarmed I am over the loss of a +little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when +so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and +each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read +and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things. +And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten. + +I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good, +nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would +just take a good cry over it, and--but won't I hug my dusty satchels if +I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I +supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for +me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own. + +So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie +took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the +nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so +slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But +I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a +minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the +depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble, +but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the +faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I +turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage, +little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my +fan. "Oh dear, I am _so_ glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my +satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to +give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting +attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch +my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to +do better.--I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a +thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the +Republican valley, and then about my baggage. + +"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?" + +"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old +lady, and must go and see to it." + +When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both +gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked: + +"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?" + +"Nothing; I did not know you had found it." + +Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said: + +"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to." + +"The conductor carried it away." + +"Where did he go to?" + +"I don't know, Miss." + +Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought. + +"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had +followed me. "What's gone?" + +"Why, my baggage; it's gone again." + +"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in +here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov. +Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all +carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad, +and a good lesson learned. + +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at +Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July +20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this +table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under +the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are +as follows: + + Pacific Junction to Kearney 196 + + Omaha line 17 + + Nebraska City to Central City 150 + + Nebraska City to Beatrice 92 + + Atchison to Columbus 221 + + Crete to Red Cloud 150 + + Table Rock to Wymore 38 + + Hastings to Culbertson 171 + + Denver Extension 244 + + Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford 77 + + Chester to Hebron 12 + + DeWitt to West Line 25 + + Odell to Washington, Kan. 26 + + Nemaha to Salem 18 + +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the +C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous +"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between +Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management, +tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are +entirely avoided. + +P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at +the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent, +while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R. +Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct +all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His +thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having +spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for +this office. + + +MILFORD. + +"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue" +river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of +thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and +sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr. +Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I +was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs. +Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who +located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in +'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by +the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town +that afterward grew up about him. + +Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made +very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land +of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through +the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers +and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the +common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due +west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr. +Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is +now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies. +Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes +and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a +log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A +saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at +hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his +flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none +other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of +the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs. +Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from +her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were +competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and +I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest." + +Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a +broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away +captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was +very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it. + +In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies +high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then +winding down canyon Seata, _little_ canyon, we crossed the River to the +Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, hickory, +and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines--one we +measured being sixteen inches in circumference--while a cottonwood +measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor +where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the +Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its +shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But +pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling +Springs." + +Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring +flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay +into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes, +but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened +rock. + +The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine +for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the +running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house +in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in +'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and +gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley _Record_." +Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the "_Congregational News_" +in '78. + +The "Milford _Ozone_" is the leading organ of the day, so named for the +health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy. + +A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as +postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via +Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J. +H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was +established. + +The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a +large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of +300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross +the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a +view of the new town of EAST MILFORD laid out on an eighty acre plot +that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It is a +private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly +favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of +the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside +home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot +and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet +found in Nebraska. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL. + + +Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived +from the Indian _ne_ (water) and _bras_ (shallow), and means shallow +water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to 208 from +north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that lie between +parallels 40° and 43° north latitude, and 18° and 27° west longitude. + +The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the +original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only +herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854, +"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made +it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for +its motto "_Equality before the Law_." + +The governors of Nebraska territory were: + + Francis Burt, 1854. + T. B. Cuming, 1854-5. + Mark W. Izard, 1855-8. + W. A. Richardson, 1858. + J. S. Morton, 1858-9. + Samuel W. Black, 1859-61. + Alvin Saunders, 1861-6. + David Butler, 1866-7. + +Of the state-- + + David Butler, 1867-71. + William H. James, 1871-3. + Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5. + Silas Garber, 1875-9. + Albinus Nance, 1879-83. + James W. Dawes, 1883. + +Allow me to quote from the _Centennial Gazetteer of United States_: + +"SURFACE.--Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends along +the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down toward +the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. There are +no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed mountains. +The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous loam, which +is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in deeply eroded +valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest fertility, +which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, ash, and +other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. Late surveys +establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom lands is from +13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres. + +"THE CLIMATE of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of other +states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The mean +annual temperature varies from 47° in the northern sections to 57° in +the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part of +the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the westerly +winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress the +thermometer to 20° and sometimes 30° below zero; while in the summer a +temperature of 100° and over is not unusual. In the southern tier of +counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76-1/4°, and of winter, +30-1/2°. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 inches) +falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall steadily +decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the western +counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the state. + +"POPULATION.--Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and in 1870, +122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, including +18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population numbered +30,748. + +"EDUCATION.--Nebraska has more organized schools, more school houses, +and those of a superior character; more money invested in buildings, +books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the same age. +The land endowed for the public schools embraces one-eighteenth of the +entire area of the state--2,623,080 acres." The school lands are sold +at not less than seven dollars per acre, which will yield a fund of not +less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from six to ten per cent +interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. The principal is +invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished while the +interest and income alone is used. + +The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly +supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable +and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in +Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the +Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength. +The Catholic church is fully represented. + +The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest +percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second. +Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania: + +Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write; +Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write. +Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891. + +Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United +States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of +the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at +the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its +salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the +air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low +temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong, +cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but +17°, and of the summer 70°. + +I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in +general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern +people. + +Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not +accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year--since +which time there has been rapid developments--will speak volumes for +the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union. + +The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an +increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828 +in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933 +to 452,542, nearly four-fold. + +The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its +capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a +population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square +mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a +population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would +have 17,480,000 people. + +The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874 +to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per +year. In 1883 there was raised in the state: + + Wheat 27,481,300. + Corn 101,276,000. + Oats 21,630,000. + +Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has +prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up +to Nov. 13, 1883: + + Corn, yield per acre 41 bushels. + Quality 85 per cent. + Potatoes, Irish 147 bushels. + Quality 109 per cent. + Potatoes, sweet 114 bushels. + Quality 111 per cent. + Hay, average tame and wild 2 tons per a. + Quality 107 per cent. + Sorghum, yield per acre 119 gallons. + Grapes, yield and quality 88 per cent. + Apples, yield and quality 97 per cent. + Pears, yield and quality 52 per cent. + Condition of orchards 100 per cent. + Spring wheat threshed at date 82 per cent. + +Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for +market, Dec. 1. + +In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a +total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised +annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and +250,000 sheep. + +The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring +the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000 +inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into +the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor +dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done +by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence. + +During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven +intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the +least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the +state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a +population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska. + +I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women. + +"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own +at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or +proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall +come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her +husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall +remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage, +and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for +his debts. + +"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt +contracted by the wife before marriage." + +The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail +transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two +years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was +about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations +were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft. +Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.; +Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers +left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month; +carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two +years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from +St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in +sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now +Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad. + +I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising +people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that +enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new +country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after +while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of +ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west +by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a +strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to +learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept +and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear +great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the +forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their +children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has +furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good +idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day, +and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general +hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska +could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children. + + +LINCOLN. + +In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at +Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of +State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and +locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present +_capital_ site was chosen--then a wild waste of grasses, where a few +scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that +once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster +post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the +Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide" +between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and +broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public +buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom +Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state, +a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and +founded a paper town and called it Lancaster. + +The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was +as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the +state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all +the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the +commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the +summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer, +which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few +and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale +of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he +received his wages--$300--he remarked that he would not give his pay +for the whole town site. + +The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100 +houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67, +but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in +January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was +realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State +University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all +other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold. + +The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The +post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national +government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were +reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot +is a large brick building 183×53 and three stories high, with lunch +room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room, +and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices +on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily +carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway +accommodations. + +All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were +given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature, +which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was +organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman +Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69; +Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A +number have since been added. + +THE STATE JOURNAL CO. On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day following the +announcement that Lancaster was _the place_ for the capital site there +appeared in the _Nebraska City Press_ a prospectus for the publication +of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be called the _Nebraska +Commonwealth_, C. H. Gere, Editor. But not until the latter part of +Nov. did it have an established office in the new city. In the spring +of '69 the _Commonwealth_ was changed to the Nebraska _State Journal_. +As a daily it was first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B. +& M.R.R. ran its first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage +coaches that had been the only means of transportation to the capital. +In '82 the State Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new +building on the corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and +brick, four stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The +officers are C. H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R. +Clark, Sec., and H. D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125 +hands. Beside the _Journal_ are the _Democrat_ and _News_, daily; the +_Nebraska Farmer_, semi-monthly; the _Capital_, weekly; the _Hesperian +Student_, monthly, published by the students of the University, and the +_Staats Anzeiger_, a German paper, issued weekly. + +On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G +street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and +spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But +Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in +that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and +about Lincoln. + +Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of +convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who +had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act. +Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready +to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good +behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step +beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all +the departments--the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where +brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot +mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and +stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at +the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of +stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a +prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4×7 feet, and furnished +with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to +write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what +they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read +before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom +are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their +cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals +together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives +and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly +to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the +wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation. +Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each +other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not +even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow +neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until +seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two +or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a +privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general +hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at +nine A.M., they are marched in close file to the chapel, where Rev. +Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and New York, +gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and Him +Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian +doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within +prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of +their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's +daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are +readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the +dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his +services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars, +the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron +door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs, +and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on +the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left. +They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to +see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and +there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked +into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I +have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to +me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will always +be watching to see what good men and women you make; great +philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good +ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice, +honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President +sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your +name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll +be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their +innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised +to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture +before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy--a God not only +to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are +here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin +with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched +drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be +men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God +will punish the _cause_, while man calls the effect to account. For my +part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest drunkard from +the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest liquor dealer in +the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he deals out, and +that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of ruined souls, +souls for which he will have to answer for before the Great Judge who +never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt by a jury. + +Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt +we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home. + +_Friday._ About two P.M. the sky was suddenly darkened with angry +looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they grew more +threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not anxious to +witness a cyclone, but if one _must_ come, I wanted to watch its +coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the clouds +rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and we drove +out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck of a brick +building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy fall of +hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some places. +This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. [ERRATA. +Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" read +"Nebraska is _not_ visited." Third line from bottom leave out the +word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as some +suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep over +some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind that I +was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather than +does Pennsylvania. + +The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very +oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature. + +_Saturday_ we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and +drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has +many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all." + +Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine +view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over +housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many +beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120 +feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks, +five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk +proper--built of stone, brick, or plank--and the remaining eleven feet +are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards. + +The streets running north and south are numbered from first to +twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W. + +Saturday evening--a beautiful moonlight night--just such a night as +makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has +been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the +mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know +if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be +aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because +I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a +neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over _after dark_. All saddled, +Fanny waits at the door, and I must go. + +Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back--I'll +telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am +told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have +only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for--but a +happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start. + + One by one her feet are lifted, + One by one she sets them down; + Step by step we leave the gatepost, + And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle, + +when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you +cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My +thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey. + +Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly. +But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night, +and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak--_if I ever reached +the foot of the mountain_,--that I did not notice that Fanny had +crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post. +Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but +she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg +him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were +created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow, +cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot. + +Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie +Keefer. + +"What does it eat?" I asked. + +"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all." + +I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but +Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night. + +In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was +asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln. +Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed +strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in +among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and +cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship. +They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief, +requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist +church, to come and baptise their infants. + +I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind, +but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so +earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I +wore an expression of pity instead. + +The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and +seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of +their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son +of Africa arose and said: + +"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for +about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And +Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat +rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called +sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit +by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake +bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of +time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my +time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in +prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands, +and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a +continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the +prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard. +One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by +bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too +large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while +she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing, +if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only +hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing +in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it +was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word +long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way. +It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description, +and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing +short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was +very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with +the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table +and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride +and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men +stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put +down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could +not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down, +and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a +piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister +closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander +would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if +de Lord am willin, I'll be here too." + +A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with +an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening +found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes. + +Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to +speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text +am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua +commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great +wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by +blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book +of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de +Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat +moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine +it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll +give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de +smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and +not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky +mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I +heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful, +and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is +expended." + +And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while +we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be +drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true +representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four +long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such +utter ignorance. + +Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been +"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The +Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.--The conclusion. + + +Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont. +Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last +Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of +what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the +storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At +Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a +couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed +to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and +Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first +person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before +she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come +to meet me, Mrs. Euber?" + +"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago." + +After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr. +Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the +previous week. + +"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received +your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a +great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you +didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up." + +Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him, +promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found +he had not eaten them all--which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called +on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I +learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook +my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey +home, and find your dear mother well!" + +"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing +better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch +acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we +meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are +stored away for future reference, in quiet hours. + +Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the +thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my +indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over +level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed +over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed +their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said +good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont. + +Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at +Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri +river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car +where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and +watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all +those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have +returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of +Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged +gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross +the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be +careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the +shore." + +"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the +boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall +into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed +with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom--but +we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy +shores of Iowa. + +Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going--of my visit at +Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family--dear old friends of my +grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield, +Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow +me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there. + +July 30, 5:30 P.M. "Will you tell me, please, when we cross the +Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we crossed +the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the window and +shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the hills and +valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I thought +there was an air of home in the breezes. + +The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at +Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the +depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months +ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I +gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright +expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves +as bright as these I gather? + +Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear +old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return +again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall +the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and +esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent +people it holds within its arms. + +As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in +a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I +have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months' +stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot +have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the +little groggeries and make those who _will_ have it, pay the highest +price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a homestead. + +"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too +dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and +wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do +they? + +"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B. +over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants +of the car. + +"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other. + +"At the ---- (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve +a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any +good." + +"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down +to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where +everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose +those young dandies are "Oil Princes"--"Coal Oil Johnnies," you +know--and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for +their fun. + +When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels +as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew +my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take +the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in +waiting and only one carriage. + +"Go to the ----, lady?" + +"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the +ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge, +past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open +saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an +eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm +and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I +guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an +elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my +imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that +He had brought me safely so near home. + +"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning. + +"Seventy-five cents." + +I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please +take fifty?" + +"Why?" + +"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel." + +"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents +on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not +help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several +little extras I had met with had taken about all. + +I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him +at the breakfast table. + +August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of +rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size, +but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to +you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of +snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that +glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig +and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I +wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and +how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere +else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the +great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the +many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark." +They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond +description. + +Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for +DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then +out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of +trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard +Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is +dumped down in wild confusion here--mountains and valleys, hills and +hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones, +trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed +with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters +and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations, +but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of +derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills--but now we are 17 +miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is +the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment +to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302 +feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of +silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever +again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I +feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the +honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle," +never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and +exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!" + +It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience +the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks +at either side, and the cars run very slow. + +One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen +excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great +valley--its noble trees untouched--and allow it to forever remain as +one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures. + +Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful +mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500 +feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond +description, so are the mountains. + +J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the +plains and stood upon the mountain peaks." + +To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but +enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the +plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His +children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged +mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the +most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union. + +Arrived at DuBois 5 P.M. This road has only been in use since in June, +and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to see the +trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand, +and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood Francis +watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but when he +recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on before to +tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I reached the +"wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, and were +not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! and the new moon +looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were glad, happy days, +but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a few days. Norval to +go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home. + +"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your +wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting: + +"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking +than when she went away," Maggie said. + +August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home, +through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land, +the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and +we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat +from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I +thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a +mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world. + +While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a +shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and +something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help +comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little +western town. + +Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we +go, until we cross Little Mahoning--bless its bright waters!--and once +more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town--the snuggest, dearest +little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I +wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles +farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays +aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau," +and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the +gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its +rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip +through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase +Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and +her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the +meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me. + +"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't +leave you soon again!" + +Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the +house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we +frightened Emma and Harry into a cry. + +I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she +strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the +friends. + +Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear +mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries, +and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how +good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at +my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep. + +Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see +and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel" +was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit +Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May, +shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed--but +where is Will? + +"Out at the oats field?" + +"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see +him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back +field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go +through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down +goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!" + +As we trudge down the hill, I said: + +"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your +farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a +scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state." + +"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will +endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they +could go along I would like to try life in the West." + +Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book +out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when +mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed +look: + +"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some +huckleberries for supper." + +Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put +aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the +huckleberries are gathered. + +Seated again-- + +"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while +Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while +I make a corn cutter." + +Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father? + +There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand +that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia. + +"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly +turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then, +"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn +cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it +be a time of peace." + +I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the +latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt +Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly +turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my +sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on +the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover +puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr +to kisses--I mean baby kisses? + +Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came +the apples--golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown. +And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I +finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The +cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and +although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the +thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have to do is to take up a +cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the +slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all +over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and +mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone +Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though +I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks. +Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the +"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day +lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of +faith and trust. + +So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for +the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left +Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along +this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary +winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet +piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan +Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave +Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I +will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We +approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge, +about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the +whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The +river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet +deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225 +feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch +only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing +quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the +bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south +we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the +train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again. +Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and +see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more +favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly +by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I +am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of +the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet +of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our +view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can +do justice to Niagara Falls. + +I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or +leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil +is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy. + +A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New +York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected +farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit +river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only +see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to +the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not +get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday +morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five +days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some +of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the +people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good +old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of +the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of +vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering +up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought, +Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and +earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln +Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright +day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the +panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything +about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to +corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look +for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that +I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among +the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked +upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the +artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday +morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the +Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over +the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go +over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I +left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road +that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land +in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the +Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is +night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view. +Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it +is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the +Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln, +arriving there at 12 M. March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's again +just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and my +welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home +with them during my stay in Lincoln. + +My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr. +Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms +satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year +from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book +began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of +it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of +hard labor. + +How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work, +kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of +discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying: + +"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the +labor it involves." + +"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work +cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden +in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all +through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put +it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at +the last." + +"Did He forsake me," do you ask? + +"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in +Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their +name down without hesitation. + +"What security do you want of me?" I asked. + +"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book." + +"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many +prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands +would be reached out to me." + +"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so +keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged." + +I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it +to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his +confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness +such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach. + +_Friday, May 9th._ I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my dear +aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father +spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome +me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was +afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the +water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said: +"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just +now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me +this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of +sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84 +with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue. + +"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up +to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror +of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth. + +The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the +sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the +leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other +May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my +May-day in the old familiar places. + +Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford, +and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction, +friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I +thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish." + +And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in _my_ "Diary +of a Minister's Wife," I bid you GOOD-BYE. + + [Illustration: + + FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R. + AND CONNECTIONS, TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.] + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. 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Sims Fulton—A +Project Gutenberg eBook</title> +<style type="text/css"> + + body {margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%;} + + p {text-indent: 0em; + text-align: justify; + margin-top: .80em; + margin-bottom: .80em; + line-height: 1.25em;} + + .ralign {text-align: right;} + + .hang {text-align: justify; + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em;} + + .smallhang {text-align: justify; + padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em; + font-size: 98%; + font-weight: bold; + padding-bottom: 1em;} + + .ctrsmallchpt {text-align: center; + font-size: 98%; + font-weight: bold; + padding-bottom: 1em;} + + .blockquote {text-align: justify; + margin-left: 7%; + margin-right: 7%; + font-size: 98%; + margin-top: 1.5em; + margin-bottom: 1.5em;} + + .smc {font-size: 85%;} + .sc {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .ctr {text-align: center;} + .ctrbold {text-align: center; + font-weight: bold;} + .ctrsmall {text-align: center; + font-size: 90%;} + .ctrsmaller {text-align: center; + font-size: 80%;} + .ctrsmallest {text-align: center; + font-size: 70%;} + .ctrlarge {text-align: center; + font-size: 120%;} + .ctrtoppad {text-align: center; + padding-top: 1.6em;} + + .small {font-size: 90%;} + .smaller {font-size: 80%;} + .smallest {font-size: 70%;} + + #coverpage {border: .1em solid black;} + + @media print, handheld + {.figcenter {text-align: center; + margin: 2em auto auto auto;} + body {margin-left: 2%; + margin-right: 2%;} + .poetry {display: block; + margin-left: 1.5em;} + table {font-size: x-small;}} + + img {max-width: 100%; + height:auto;} + + .figcenter {clear: both; + margin: 2em auto; + text-align: center; + max-width: 100%;} + + .caption {font-size: small; + text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; + margin: 0.25em 0;} + + .titlepage {font-weight: bold;} + .booktitle {font-weight: bold; + text-align: center; + font-size: 125%; + padding-top: 2em; + page-break-before: always;} + + h1 {text-align: center; + font-size: 140%; + font-weight: bold; + line-height: 2em; + padding-top: 1em; + page-break-before: always; + letter-spacing: .1em;} + + h2 {text-align: center; + font-size: 105%; + font-weight: bold; + padding-top: 3em; + padding-bottom: 1em; + page-break-before: always;} + + hr {width: 65%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 17.5%; + margin-right: 17.5%; + clear: both;} + + hr.med {width: 50%; + height: .1em; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: 25%; + margin-right: 25%; + clear: both;} + + hr.short {width: 35%; + height: .1em; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: 32.5%; + margin-right: 32.5%; + clear: both;} + + .poetry-container {text-align: center;} + + .poetry {display: inline-block; + text-align: left; + line-height: 1.25em;} + + .poetry .headstanza {margin: .5em 0em 1.25em 0em;} + .poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} + .poetry .stanzaitalic {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; font-style:italic;} + .poetry div {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + + .poetry .i1 {margin-left: 1em;} + + ul {list-style: none;} + li {text-align: left; + padding-bottom: .2em;} + + table {margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + margin-top: 0em; + margin-bottom: 0em;} + + td.right {text-align: right; + padding-left: 1em;} + + .tn {font-size: small; + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + padding: .2em 1em .2em 1em; + background-color: #E6E6E6; + border-style: solid; + border-width: .1em;} + + a:link {color: #00F; + text-decoration:none;} + a:visited {color:#F00; + text-decoration:none;} + +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: To and Through Nebraska + +Author: Frances I. Sims Fulton + +Release Date: January 17, 2014 [EBook #44688] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter"><img width="393" height="600" id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover"></div> + + +<h1> +TO AND THROUGH<br><big>NEBRASKA</big>. +</h1> +<br> +<div class="titlepage"> +<p class="ctrsmall"> +BY +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img width="240" height="28" src="images/001.jpg" alt="A Pennsylvania Girl."></div> +<br> +<p class="ctrsmall"> +<span class="smc">THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT</span> TRUTH<br> +<span class="smc">IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS,<br> +WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG<br> +JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO</span> +</p> + +<br> +<p class="ctrsmall"> +<i>The Author</i>, +</p> +<p class="ctr"> +FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON. +</p> + +<br> +<p class="ctrsmaller"> +LINCOLN, NEB.<br> +JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS,<br> +1884. +</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="med"> +<h2> +A WORD TO THE READER. +</h2> + + +<p> +If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual +Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and +triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and +valleys, read <a href="#I">Chapter I.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, <a href="#II">Chapter II.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of the great Platte valley, <a href="#III">Chapter III.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, <a href="#IV">Chapter IV.</a> +</p> + +<p> +Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and +liquor laws, and Capital, <a href="#V">Chapter V.</a> +</p> + +<p> +If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the +world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, <a href="#VI">Chapter VI.</a> +</p> + +<p> + +</p> + +<p> +And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand <i>just +why</i> this little book—if such it may be called, came to be written. +We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a +Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it +more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown +in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned +lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give +everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch +upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a +stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the +state from Dakota to Kansas—306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the +U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the +state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip +and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you +read <span class="smc">ONLY TRUTH</span>. +</p> + +<p> +My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement; +and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My +parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing +the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and +rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882, +and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was +anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my +youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself—claimants +must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I +promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and +intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one +years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the +pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus +far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch, +sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not +deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet +I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many +times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him +in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry, +would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered +with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was +ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his +was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the +power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well +arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far +north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go +there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they +wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they +would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably +detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple +of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could +depend for care it was decided that I should go. +</p> + +<p> +When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a +"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as +a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like +fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I +never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines +were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and +features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows: +</p> + +<p> +A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The +squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good, +sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true, +who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from +death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians. +</p> + +<p> +The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from +his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the +old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a +better life in a new home." +</p> + +<p> +Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or +locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack +mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I +had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to +my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had +written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story +would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack +in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book. +</p> + +<p> +Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross? +and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done? +</p> + +<p> +"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book +in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes +lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned +from books, and then the book will be—only a little pamphlet after all. +</p> + + + + +<hr class="short"> +<p class="booktitle"> +THROUGH NEBRASKA. +</p> + + + + +<h2> +<a name="I"> </a> +CHAPTER I. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang">Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford, Pa., +in Northern Nebraska — A Description of the Country in +which they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha +Valleys — Their First Summer's Work and Harvest. +</p> + + +<p> +True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to +begin this with words of love of our own native land,—the state of all +that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest +to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one +vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams +abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a +peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to +become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union. +</p> + +<p> +Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain +ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of +golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil +that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told—affording her children +the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in +until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go +out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new +homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers +lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony +for all mankind." +</p> + +<p> +Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a +pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by +Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and +west branches of the Tunagwant—or Big Cove—Creek, and hid away from +the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in +1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the +valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was +transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and +selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth, +until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and, +forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that +has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in +all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class +money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told +from a member of the Standard Oil Company. +</p> + +<p> +Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass +quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes, +with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free, +social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be +suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and +operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live +for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time +and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of +living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to +carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune +sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only +for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the +valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work +of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are +yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show +innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks +rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a +feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged +hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly +burning, which livens the darkest night. +</p> + +<p> +Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and +like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning. +Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and +spent their money even more lavishingly than it came—so often counting +on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing +and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil, +when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from +territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to +reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then +new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured +many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the +deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new +fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000 +inhabitants. +</p> + +<p> +Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And +to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great +excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not +only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with +the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing +their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil. +</p> + +<p> +Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their <i>all</i>; +dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would +sell and realize a fortune in a few hours. +</p> + +<p> +Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the +wealth the day would bring. +</p> + +<p> +What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day +advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the +"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top. +So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and +happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny, +and often more than their own were swept. +</p> + +<p> +Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they +had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces +there, but faces that were <i>green</i> with despair. This was only one +day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is +"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But +when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it. +</p> + +<p> +Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at +last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the +country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The +Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of +Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A +colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received +so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in +attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week +after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they +numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the +year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws. +Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed +must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee; +but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of +which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray +expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and +lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public +buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots—a business and +residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of +remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within +a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of +spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage. +Also the keeping of gambling houses." +</p> + +<p> +On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered +seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location. +</p> + +<p> +The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear +their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in +northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general +wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of +Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed, +and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian +reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the +choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where +nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of +many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after +many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was +arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and +Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April +appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists. +</p> + +<p> +We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains +of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when +anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high +for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager +pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and +landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where? +</p> + +<p> +We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only +those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold +kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize +what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty, +and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would +bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of +the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can +know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some +of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county, +chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to +Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making +and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than +when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more +substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or +monopoly. +</p> + +<p> +The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done, +homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many +sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday +morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but +it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the +going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those +left behind. +</p> + +<p> +And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the +exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and +joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were +companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye" +hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving +those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father +and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left +behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by +long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long +letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home. +</p> + +<p> +One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the +hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they +as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying +all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all +just to keep back the sobs and tears. +</p> + +<p> +Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated +many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must +go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load +of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping +of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we +were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle +westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we +received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left +behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure +snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is +heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears +until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity, +even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it +seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking +back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled +with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the +cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of +hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among +the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of. +</p> + +<p> +But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and +busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging +everything for comfort sake. +</p> + +<p> +This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends, +which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one +bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil +and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home? +</p> + +<p> +Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a +number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow +them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all +the good things a lunch basket can be stored with. +</p> + +<p> +When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua, +now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom +people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most +popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles +wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville, +we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to +speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would +call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose +their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we +rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the +childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball +so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the +last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would +slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of +Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points, +we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all +sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony +babe. +</p> + +<p> +Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad +farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and +jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed +to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the +children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the +racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing +Cleveland—leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city +and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight +hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn +with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears, +such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind +lines I then had written: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers,</div> +<div class="i1">Your loveliness we'll strew</div> +<div>From Washington to Cleveland's soil,</div> +<div class="i1">The funeral cortege through.</div> +<div>In that loved land that gave him birth</div> +<div class="i1">We lay him down to rest,</div> +<div>'Tis but his mangled form alone,</div> +<div class="i1">His soul is with the blest.</div> +<div>Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist</div> +<div class="i1">With many a falling tear,</div> +<div>A mist is over all this land</div> +<div class="i1">For him we loved most dear.</div></div> + +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing;</div> +<div class="i1">In mournful strains and slow,</div> +<div>While in the tomb we gently lay,</div> +<div class="i1">Our martyred Garfield low.</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but +rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take +up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled +down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may +be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who +never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we +leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting +hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr. +Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee +pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's +generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup, +until he is now rinsing the grounds. +</p> + +<p> +Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain +would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word +we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than +all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest +comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand +almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains +and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since +childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first +loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind. +'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a +better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the +same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of +the world. +</p> + +<p> +When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were +surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white +sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill +to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant +to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large +and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were +quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of +the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area, +24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88 +miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled +in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we +bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on, +with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only +to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago. +</p> + +<p> +The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a +decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around +by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing +his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but +little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house, +which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The +Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats, +being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It +made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were +anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of +humanity. +</p> + +<p> +I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not +sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R., +and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty +flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands +and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of +Illinois—rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or +stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing +everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board, +barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing +green. +</p> + +<p> +The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far +apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors. +</p> + +<p> +Crossed the Mississippi river about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span>, and when +mid-way over was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and +about a mile in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off +the old grass, which was a novel sight to us. +</p> + +<p> +Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark +just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see. +</p> + +<p> +Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more +like a delegation from "Blackville"—from the soot and cinder-dirt—than +a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a +camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three +o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by +moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into +the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East +miss the rough, rugged hills of home! +</p> + +<p> +The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,—as one remarked, "not from +behind a hill, but right out of the ground"—ushering in another +beautiful day. +</p> + +<p> +At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to +see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer +boats—three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was +leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull +lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and +have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we +never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore +in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but +"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand. +Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not +use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of +a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point, +the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned. +When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had +a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east +to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level +lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for +the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet +we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within. +Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no +other home. +</p> + +<p> +To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who +would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it +certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us +who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not +expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more +devoted to the old home than before. +</p> + +<p> +We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they +had not helped to bear us on their bosom to—we did not know what. How +little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no +rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters." +Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the +waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the +world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out +on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on +just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores +that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the +voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and +thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be +more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast +adrift upon the sea of <i>our</i> life; and though they may be tempest +tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and +switched on to Nebraska's <i>terra firma</i>. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place, +but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered +westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger +agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he +fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he +represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of +Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had +just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for +"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many +were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we +flattered ourselves that we <i>did</i> well sustain the old family +honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded +Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in +which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us. +Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you +all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm +and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a +day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at +a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather +half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was +sung out, and we were on with the rest—to go calling and visit with +our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the +monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of +the cars. +</p> + +<p> +One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string; +mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt +I was going only to soon leave them—they to scatter over the plains, +and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a +mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received +a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down +the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we +had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as +they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we +reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from +the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He +received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed +in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days' +journey. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the +claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly +had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with +him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again. +</p> + +<p> +I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already +be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead +grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire, +and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground—it has the same +rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west +we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and +sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us +when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and +what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of +fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses +far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses. +</p> + +<p> +We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw +this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who +had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the +prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his +luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped +at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be +cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of +"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but +were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the +car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I +hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west? +I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our +tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with +the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were +not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of +such an act. +</p> + +<p> +About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station, +Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors +locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our +first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our +coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a +good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and +could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a +comfortable resting place for the night. +</p> + +<p> +We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air +of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like +birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their +nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists +expected to find their nests of homes. +</p> + +<p> +But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark +that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had +to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the +songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a +mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader, +the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took +right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after +the smoke had cleared away, looked—and—well—we missed paper and +pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown +that followed. +</p> + +<p> +A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of +Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind +of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost +among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and +stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to +breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to +note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote +down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will +sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until +breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something—I didn't +know what, but full of curiosity went to see. +</p> + +<p> +A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that +arrived last night?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is." +</p> + +<p> +"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky." +</p> + +<p> +It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming +implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went +to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as +ox-plows were concerned. +</p> + +<p> +What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey, +and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast +before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made +an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if +the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on +to—reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole +truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of +the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey +better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do +you think of a climate like that? +</p> + +<p> +But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales, +and in reality we had only eaten—I mean we had only gained one and a +half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper +were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity. +</p> + +<p> +When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there +trying to sleep. +</p> + +<p> +"Home-sick?" we asked. +</p> + +<p> +"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night." +</p> + +<p> +No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home. +</p> + +<p> +First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the +depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location. +</p> + +<p> +The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad +through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to +secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being +claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the +morrow. +</p> + +<p> +The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be +seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the +evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above +his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with +the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday morning.</i> Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the +men started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and +ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded +with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who +were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away. +</p> + +<p> +But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was +the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that +western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers +of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town. +But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and +wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival. +Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to +anxious ones in the East. +</p> + +<p> +In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie, +about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the +river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely +turned already and didn't know the town I had just left. +</p> + +<p> +The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and +is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water +is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook +and line, spears and seine are used instead. +</p> + +<p> +Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked, +yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there +is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the +streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops, +and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,—cross +I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know +what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear +what Prof. Aughey says: +</p> + +<p> +"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state. +It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley +widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and +often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river +approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into +the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its +course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall, +and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable +manufacturing region." +</p> + +<p> +We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we +made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not +have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the +water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while +the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some +places its bed. +</p> + +<p> +Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it +quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high; +plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white; +roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of +the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had +a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and +walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out. +</p> + +<p> +The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a +frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the +shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the +bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened +with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it +down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves +the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at +first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many +inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water +from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is +easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water. +</p> + +<p> +The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight. +But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you, +forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills +fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly +sod, dot the surrounding country. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday, 30th.</i> Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little +sunshine. For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought +and found a very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John +Skirving, of whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought +his family from Jefferson City, Iowa. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday.</i> A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes +through everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters +in camp near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with +nothing but their tent for shelter. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Wednesday.</i> About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have +snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine +rain. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at +home. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Thursday.</i> And still it rains and blows! +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday.</i> A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I +got out of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther +west, and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to +me I scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down +and quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed +in the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I +hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing +had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise +than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to +make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that +I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I +had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half +expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared +away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so +dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that +the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon +dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty +dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday.</i> Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The +majority in good heart and looking well despite the weather and +exposure they have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few +are discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere. +</p> + +<p> +They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still +farther northwest—some going as far west as Holt creek, and so +scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a +disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the +same church and school would serve them all. +</p> + +<p> +Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily, +through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the +colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been +claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located +more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more +deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was +purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be +a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top, +which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the +wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and +hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again, +and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers. +</p> + +<p> +Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles +in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and +then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office +and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there +was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend +the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim, +hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see +a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his. +</p> + +<p> +Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Sunday, 6 May.</i> Bright and warm. Would not have known there had +been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely +dried, and walking pleasant. +</p> + +<p> +A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon, +and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the +Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it +quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even +here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our +attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going, +and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on +this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly. +</p> + +<p> +The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness: +"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn +valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their +presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be +sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with +thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him +we can look for care and protection at all times. +</p> + +<p> +In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on +temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people, +as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in +"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from +"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the +same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we +had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare +to think how far we were from its shelter. +</p> + +<p> +But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his +love is just the same the wide world over. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday.</i> Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the +location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but +themselves to care for, have started. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday.</i> Rains. Folks disappointed. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Wednesday.</i> Rains and blows. Discouraging. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Thursday.</i> Blows and rains. <i>Very</i> discouraging. +</p> + +<p> +The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season. +Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in +some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard +frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the +colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in +comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know +where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build +their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their +families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I +cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I +am greatly in sympathy with them. +</p> + +<p> +With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I +feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes." +Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the +land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I +am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds +with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson +county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me +some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I +have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every +kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home; +in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give +every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on +my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own +care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I +trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and +protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while +I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew +before—though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my +appetite, as well as the climate—yet every one experiences an increase +of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called +"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft +beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his +complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the +eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and +wherever it found him. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday.</i> Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off. +</p> + +<p> +It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a +prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at +night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The +prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields +of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow +the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen +some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter +upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so +long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to +drive their cattle out to the "divides,"—hills between rivers—to +pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on +them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch +a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her +pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to +scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have +also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with +the good. +</p> + +<p> +During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants +keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara +country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great +hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every +worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top. +Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon, +which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole +in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with +them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are +generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the +wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking, +overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often +patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and +children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the +rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that +look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show +they have had a good living where they came from. +</p> + +<p> +Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good +education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright +little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from +Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving +Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the +country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon, +spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her +husband attended to several valuable Texas horses. +</p> + +<p> +Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three +weeks." +</p> + +<p> +"How can you travel through such weather?" +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the +rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down." +</p> + +<p> +"Never get sick?" +</p> + +<p> +"No." +</p> + +<p> +"Not even a cold?" +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started." +</p> + +<p> +"How many miles can you go in a day?" +</p> + +<p> +"We average about twenty." +</p> + +<p> +The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look +healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of +people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go +whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure +we owe the opening up of the western country. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday morning.</i> Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared +off nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All +getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr. +Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of +oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the +majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so, +much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and +left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double +bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last +week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by +Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years. +</p> + +<p> +Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S. +gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to +bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off +the currants. +</p> + +<p> +Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska +behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I +think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along. +Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the +wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and +as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under +the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them +with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well +trained by the time we reach the end of our journey. +</p> + +<p> +"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far +we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We +are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows +running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road +running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart, +but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I +see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and +make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to +pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt. +The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another. +</p> + +<p> +Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile +stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation, +not even Stuart to be seen from this point. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look +out and perhaps I will find one. +</p> + +<p> +Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be +a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it. +Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right +are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles +away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves. +</p> + +<p> +The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the—oxen of +about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy +walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles, +wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had +tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new +homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying +supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo +stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which +gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its +protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery +and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time! +</p> + +<p> +Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real +little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called, +but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear +water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland +in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks <i>are</i> sweeter for +singing to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their +foam," and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to +the many that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on +the hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had +reigned within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the +walls falling. +</p> + +<p> +Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as +the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for +your sake, reader. +</p> + +<p> +Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that +stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite +new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother +their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at +least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie +is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children! +</p> + +<p> +Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of +the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back +memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly +written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims." +All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put +forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an +undertaking for me. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!" +</p> + +<p> +"Is what?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, that stick for a whip-handle." +</p> + +<p> +I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had +seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it. +</p> + +<p> +The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night +at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to +the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of +way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am +not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with +travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady, +though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we +are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the +few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen +all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no +bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and +will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just +shut my eyes until we are on the other side. +</p> + +<p> +There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to +secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not +disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite +crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the +setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of +the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast +this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the +Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing +most interesting. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my +barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name +it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48°, +think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair +ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out. +</p> + +<p> +One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the +banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and +bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen, +almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses +the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock +that juts out of the hill—first stone or rock seen since we entered +the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man +coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the +hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help +you gentlemen, but that off-horse is <i>terribly weak</i>. The other +horse is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak +that off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. +While we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough +to learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he +was lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly +who have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men +push, but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. +The men debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and +carry them up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my +suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk +with, "That's it—only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and +a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men, +while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to +go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble. +</p> + +<p> +When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk, +as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill, +across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with +a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a +narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond +willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie +schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very +good harbor for these ships of the west. +</p> + +<p> +"What kind of a shanty is this?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't +think worth while to light up in the evening." +</p> + +<p> +On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I +can scarcely take another step. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open +door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered +about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus." +</p> + +<p> +"No, just across the river where you see that light." +</p> + +<p> +Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel +about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and <i>so glad</i> to get to <i>somewhere</i>. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly +after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his +hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here +before dark. +</p> + +<p> +Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr. +Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa. +</p> + +<p> +"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs. +M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon. +Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But +Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take +them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to +all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good +supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get +laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new +apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod +roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on +the floor, while the family occupies the old part. +</p> + +<p> +About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of +the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently +pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general +uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of +the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping +into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said, +"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer +shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log +house, 14×16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen, +dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture, +without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the +family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and +son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this +old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the +comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and +dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened. +The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men +have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the +house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the +ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing +over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking +badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in. +Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection. +</p> + +<p> +Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone +Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion, +but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm, +so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled. +</p> + +<p> +The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing +machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with +carpet and rubber coats. +</p> + +<p> +How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and +meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river—hope it is meat cast +adrift for some hungry traveler—and some one has used my loaf for a +cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So +I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free +from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted +experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way. +Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while +the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and +prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and +went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons. +</p> + +<p> +The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the +<i>hotel</i> where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the +shelter we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their +wagons, and wonder where the rest of our party are. +</p> + +<p> +The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters +makes us even more homesick. +</p> + +<p> +"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every +thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I +<i>do wish</i> it would stop!" "When <i>will</i> it clear off?" "Does +it <i>always</i> rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of +times, only to cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving +sixteen souls crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. +Just how was a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. +Reader, I wish you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me +by the stove, I then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you +ever read Mark Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, +there are a few <i>innocents abroad</i>, just now, <i>roughing it</i> +to their hearts' content. +</p> + +<p> +The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down +crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some +blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick, +sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores. +Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker—there, I knew she would rock on Mr. +Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double +up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a +better chance. +</p> + +<p> +If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might +perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be +dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and +then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do +pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself +fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a +chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on +two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie, +you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before +the stove, and list—he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a +pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots +and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that +than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden +pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if +he doesn't stop nodding so far back. +</p> + +<p> +Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more +words of Kathrina. +</p> + +<p> +Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the +bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and +crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been +driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog, +give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then; +casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep, +because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather +scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of +these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these +sleepers must be kept warm. +</p> + +<p> +Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet +and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does +weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small +as the unoccupied space, that's all. +</p> + +<p> +Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my +eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the +oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do? +To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the +floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get +up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I +leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that +"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just +as they can, mostly. So +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>All cuddled up together,</div> +<div>In a little weenty heap,</div> +<div>I double up my pillow</div> +<div>And laugh myself to sleep.</div> +<div>I know you will not blame me</div> +<div>If I dream of home so bright—</div> +<div>I'll see you in the morning</div> +<div>So now a kind "good night".</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt +further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little +bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is +seeking rest for to-night. +</p> + +<p> +"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for +breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep +longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't +always slept on a table? +</p> + +<p> +I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning, +could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were +sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are +surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in +almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension +table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the +dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this +chapter. +</p> + +<p> +Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever +regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge," +and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights' +lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought +they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor, +to sleep. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday morning.</i> Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start +about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies +ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push +them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight. +</p> + +<p> +But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in +the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in +the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on +over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to +snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head +well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to +start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the +trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all +sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking +and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and +pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try +hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this +bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I +pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only +variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a +tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for +several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost +trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both +of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that +neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two +squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces +looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their +situation. +</p> + +<p> +The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground +soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near +where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared +their lands, the country took on a better appearance. +</p> + +<p> +The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that +look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and +very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if +possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept +up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How +much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were +ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a +plow, and asked no more questions. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross +with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a +signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open +arms." +</p> + +<p> +And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married +brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner. +After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to +the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara +and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span> +</p> + +<p> +Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home +until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us +feel quite at home. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well +supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent" +to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"The sweetest songs are never sung;</div> +<div>The fairest pictures never hung;</div> +<div>The fondest hopes are never told—</div> +<div>They are the heart's most cherished gold."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer, +when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois +City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L. +added her beautiful children's stories. +</p> + +<p> +He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them, +and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization. +How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to +read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists? +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday, 15th of May</i>, dawned without a cloud, and how bright +everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor +backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change +from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my +May day, but the story is a long one—too long for the pages of my +little book. +</p> + +<p> +And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to +gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the +hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of +the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans, +and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs +were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were +of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited +the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful +place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite +homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every +color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the +Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success, +after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house +where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which, +Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte, +twelve miles west. +</p> + +<p> +Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close +to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past +the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss +Minn to join our maying party. +</p> + +<p> +The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's +growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with +blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as +they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered +trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the +valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most +of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands +alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20 +acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is +covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of +a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they +are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others +that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the +touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had +been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a +shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but +those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists; +tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country +were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and +wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden +treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a +moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of +dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I +felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day, +and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars," +for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will +allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different. +</p> + +<p> +We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know +where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite +distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war +whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the +north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained +from this elevated point was grand. +</p> + +<p> +A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the +north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the +water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs +extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong +to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but +without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or +rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance +is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim +takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a +plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me +the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's +and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the +sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone, +to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel +lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our +many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in +places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of +spring? +</p> + +<p> +But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton, +your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western +girls would think of such a thing!" +</p> + +<p> +"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It +was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th +of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens, +gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or +have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the +difference in the years to me. +</p> + +<p> +No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and +the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of +an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring +in bloom, and I could not but gather of all—even the tiniest. +</p> + +<p> +The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and +remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the +previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not +so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over +the serious illness of a loved sister. +</p> + +<p> +I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers +with tear-dimmed eyes—sister May was dead, and everywhere it was +desolate. +</p> + +<p> +'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we +gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen. +</p> + +<p> +In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy +mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and +miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that +almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright. +</p> + +<p> +Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and +shared them with May, by laying them on her grave. +</p> + +<p> +To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I +celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost +untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the +favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks +where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will +gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so +lonely thinking of their daughter so far away. +</p> + +<p> +The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle—sister +Maggie's oldest child—who came to me for a May-flower in '76. +</p> + +<p> +But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was +growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to +gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love. +</p> + +<p> +Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears +that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown, +for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to +me. +</p> + +<p> +"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live <i>good</i> lives and yet not make +the <i>most</i> of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good +and useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good +and useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of +the hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and +prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now +budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner." +</p> + +<p> +After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will +be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone +Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious +mementos of our May-day in Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"—the +term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance, +and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a +neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately +come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the +life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I +tell these little things that those who do not already know, may +understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere. +</p> + +<p> +Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie +ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or <i>minnie</i> in +the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor +woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a +word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and +then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright, +pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a +new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright +and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a +drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a +half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least, +the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky +complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black +braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears. +Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could +not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her +face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus +she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their <i>tepee</i>. +The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two +apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove, +table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed +covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen +except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The +furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and +neatness I had not expected. +</p> + +<p> +The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to +smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then +drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf +tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought, +it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege +lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband +laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her. +She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the +lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left +feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who +would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor; +labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw +is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by +those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by +the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians +are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing +every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice, +coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week. +</p> + +<p> +Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have +no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as +Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why +not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the +white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or +die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to +adopt! +</p> + +<p> +We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no +one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better. +</p> + +<p> +When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in +the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You +don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led +the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built, +so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting +to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag +carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by +being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had +the partition been finished. +</p> + +<p> +The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were +cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and +looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected +without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with +my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare +your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I +long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for +society." +</p> + +<p> +Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right +out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience. +</p> + +<p> +I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and +experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by +friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs. +W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known +the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes +overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost. +Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock +raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of +their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and +during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod, +but of lumber. +</p> + +<p> +"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling +here will help it so much, and now we will stay." +</p> + +<p> +Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing +she had a taste for the beautiful. +</p> + +<p> +After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made +our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the +buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked +like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a +prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground +homes. +</p> + +<p> +Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his +house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to +frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn +toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more. +</p> + +<p> +Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six +of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had +joined them. +</p> + +<p> +The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we +finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun, +suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and +where? +</p> + +<p> +Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to +many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept +hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms, +and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want +the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross +over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs +of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the +colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well +filled with weather stayed emigrants. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not +come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday +night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When +daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along +the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river +and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the +journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies +dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned +his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left +Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with +sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found +for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C. +</p> + +<p> +Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned +that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter +prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what +you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not +expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country +just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find +the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would +not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged +when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt +for your motto, "What <i>others</i> have done <i>I</i> can do." Allow +me to give you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any +of the colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the +disadvantages of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April +of '79 I came to this country to look up a home where I could have good +cattle range. When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs +crosswise to look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further +west, but returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help +of a young man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was +under roof. While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made +garden. We then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and +came back in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two +months' supply of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than +Keya Paha, thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, +was about the nearest house. +</p> + +<p> +"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon +had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his +reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail, +that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to +come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose +reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number +together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the +government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat, +and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is +worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is +strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them +right on the war-path. +</p> + +<p> +"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made +Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from +Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time +it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a +distance of about sixty miles. +</p> + +<p> +"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school +house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister +(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of +firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s +father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower +part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many +a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of +satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give +them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on +reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters +have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without +meeting a soul on the way. +</p> + +<p> +"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The +Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid +of them." +</p> + +<p> +It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to +"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door. +</p> + +<p> +Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about +seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr +oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have +over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell. +</p> + +<p> +Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and +brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us +took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent; +went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of +an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From +the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet +strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful +frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's +dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his +blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower +limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their +meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant +plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind +of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with +needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding +their finger ends than was Mr. Clark. +</p> + +<p> +"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from +drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about +all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away, +I can tell you." +</p> + +<p> +We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson +from their experience—never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't +hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it +takes good strong material to stand the wind. +</p> + +<p> +In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the +prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is +indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving +grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave +great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new +growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was +not burnt. +</p> + +<p> +Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same +time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive +nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say, +burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass +roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy +soil. +</p> + +<p> +These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees. +Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often +planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato +patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To +prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a +supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of +course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has +passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a +cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday, 21st.</i> Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn +planting. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED. +</p> + +<p> +As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to +be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be +interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to, +so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned +and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that +closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their +broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on +which cattle are grazing—that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo" +(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as +the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only +to now and then take a stroll over it. +</p> + +<p> +The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half +a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and +then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called +table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing +line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth, +where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here, +thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet +deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says +"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the +water is clear and pleasant to the taste. +</p> + +<p> +The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on +the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and +from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich. +The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there +are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak, +elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in +the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums, +choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one +has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size +and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead +of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom +so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in +great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines +that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes" +of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry, +which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little +white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a +foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not +choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they +are pleasant to the taste and refreshing. +</p> + +<p> +Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black +currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the +snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are +starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said +to be equally as good as the poled hops of home. +</p> + +<p> +"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs. +K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the +buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum, +and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in +clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from +the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in +color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters, +and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It +belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as +ordinary beans and eaten—if at starvation point. Of the other flowers +gathered mention was made on my May-day. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is +easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet +not very hard. +</p> + +<p> +About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other +half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen +inches to two feet deep. +</p> + +<p> +I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by +those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are. +"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing +country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted +with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far +from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad +nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be +long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free +from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in +Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow +tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want; +no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we +will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us +to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little +alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"—to +scatter over—and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere. +</p> + +<p> +Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden +and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all +they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the +building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber +culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in +cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly. +</p> + +<p> +There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in +stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see +it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a +general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers +will tell the story of its worth. +</p> + +<p> +I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I +hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of +an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so +interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read. +</p> + +<p> +But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding +away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down +to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was +anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy +poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof +for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have +during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer +nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while +of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a +dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and +surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real +to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man +who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their +herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as +he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a +half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma. +I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was +before I came west." +</p> + +<p> +The room was about 10×12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and +part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made +when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they +lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on. +</p> + +<p> +To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude—so far +removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the +stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only +retreats for the night. +</p> + +<p> +We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the +Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and +wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course, +or else I am turned all wrong. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Tuesday.</i> Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to +regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together, +going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with +a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh! +I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she +talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble +monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no +doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could +do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under. +</p> + +<p> +Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and +gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I +felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as +much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible. +</p> + +<p> +We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to +Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K. +and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been +forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And +Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted +on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and +improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a +kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them +all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and +soon the little group of friends were left behind. +</p> + +<p> +I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to +part from them?—Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people +all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with +them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the +spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that +the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our +good plans could not be carried out. +</p> + +<p> +It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with +eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even +had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a +nice settlement of people. +</p> + +<p> +The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance +to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all +together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just +where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are +only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many +acres. +</p> + +<p> +One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no +good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the +unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose +wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for +the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over +the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The +tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses +to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken. +</p> + +<p> +We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and +the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may +learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow +and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up +between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod +with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you +plant the next hill—I mean hole—of corn. +</p> + +<p> +One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and +not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania +roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of +them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at +last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry +home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the +prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles +away up here! +</p> + +<p> +Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized +sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as +though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out +or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and +now the sea has all gone to grass. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that +I may have a better view. +</p> + +<p> +"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been +made?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, by the action of the wind and water." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense +scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape, +size, and depth." +</p> + +<p> +Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren +of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well +filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar. +</p> + +<p> +Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on +the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me +for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and +when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to +some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way, +I will take another ride behind oxen. +</p> + +<p> +Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for +stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the +maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those +who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did +not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle +were stolen without personal regard for the owner. +</p> + +<p> +But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some +time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still +committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who +feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose +their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter +from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses +stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their +favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's +bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid +me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more +of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about? +</p> + +<p> +But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of +other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and +quite inviting after our long ride. +</p> + +<p> +After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or +<i>Running Water</i>. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by, +as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it +empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it +enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide; +but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps +in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses +its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the +Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a +pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a +couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my +satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset +picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for +memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow +stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered +with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years +ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river +bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed +heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills, +and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their +toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by +this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack +"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying: +</p> + +<p> +"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get +near it." +</p> + +<p> +It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to +settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the +colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the +land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame +of the colony will people this country by many times the number of +actual settlers it itself will bring. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I +attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet +hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara, +and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on +toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful +valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide, +but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an +interesting picture. +</p> + +<p> +There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side +of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land +on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are +persuaded to test it. +</p> + +<p> +The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north +side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more +than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have +sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call +the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also +the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink +flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny +flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only +the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening, +and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was +not; but the leaves convinced me. +</p> + +<p> +I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the +flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem +to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the +sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be +found about Stuart when I left. +</p> + +<p> +We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and—"Oh, horror! Mr. +Newell, look out for the red-skins!" +</p> + +<p> +"Where, Miss Fulton, where?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire +to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some +sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian +blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare +me scalp." +</p> + +<p> +Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for +the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in +suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first +chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake +you up. +</p> + +<p> +But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a +prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted +a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying +to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a +mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the +bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as +though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the +"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies +traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and +all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of +worldly goods along. +</p> + +<p> +They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation +is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up +government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good +homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the +land for the claiming of it. +</p> + +<p> +The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I +have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am +not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty +welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner." +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST. +</p> + +<p> +It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier, +and not tell more of them. +</p> + +<p> +I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one +whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and +energy, I quote: +</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p class="ralign"> +"<span class="sc">Brewer, P.O. Brown Co., Neb.</span>, +</p> + +<p class="ralign"> +"December 23, '83. +</p> + +<p> +"Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better +satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done +better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled) +per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger +vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40, +wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first +year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it +costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and +windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at +the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use, +a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the +chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight +feet. +</p> + +<p> +"There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They +charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs, +sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two +and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make +the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own +hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam." +</p> + +<p> +"The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in +the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September, +and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the +colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for +my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will." +</p> +</div> + +<p> +From another: +</p> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p> +"We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have +some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are +going to have a reunion 16 February." +</p> +</div> + +<div class="blockquote"> +<p class="ralign"> +"<span class="sc">Brewer</span>, Jan., 8. +</p> + +<p> +"You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been +getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th +December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since +Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken +around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of +years to have schools and plenty of neighbors." +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no +sickness reported from climating. +</p> + +<p> +I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is +a good country for the few of us that came." +</p> + +<p> +I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the +little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that +have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the +horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have +been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and +lodging a greater number in jail. +</p> + +<p> +It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to +rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace +and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all +things good! +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="II"> </a> +CHAPTER II. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri +Valley. — A visit to Ft. Niobrara. +</p> + + +<p> +I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. & +P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from +Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about. +Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr. +Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by +sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the +Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not +give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of +the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that +neighborhood making it their head-quarters. +</p> + +<p> +I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for +ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday +evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me +for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we +availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by +daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who +busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck +and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain +with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and +that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no +nothing but prairie. +</p> + +<p> +There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be +going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we +all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent +braces himself against the stove, and I—well I just shake and laugh. +It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the +agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face +and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that +his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last +Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara +and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't +know when to be thankful, do they? +</p> + +<p> +Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and +not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that +of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is +prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems +quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade +again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her +head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't +shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the +country. +</p> + +<p> +Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer. +</p> + +<p> +The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills +or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine, +where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them +of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to +meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a +walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees +that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen +from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made +haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it +was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see +more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular +passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening +was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested +upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the +company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home +where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I +am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has +repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say: +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody." +</p> + +<p> +The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll" +folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is +silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful +hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from +home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think. +</p> + +<p> +To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to +Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and +the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my +coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the +depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately. +</p> + +<p> +But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and +protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I +trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said: +</p> + +<p> +"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has +always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know +He will not forsake me now." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence, +says: +</p> + +<p> +"Well, I believe I will go, after all." +</p> + +<p> +"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the +depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just +rising. +</p> + +<p> +The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until +our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and +spend Sunday at Long Pine. +</p> + +<p> +I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat, +fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman +back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman +across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old +mother! +</p> + +<p> +"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there—well, I scarcely know what that +is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair +of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But +while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a +great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved, +it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you +see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of +gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat +in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our +background. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes +up, and the fatherly old gent rouses. +</p> + +<p> +"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he +asked. +</p> + +<p> +"I am a member of the colony," I replied. +</p> + +<p> +"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they +getting along?" +</p> + +<p> +I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as +lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial +introductions. But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves +us with a pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be +J. Wesley Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at +Valentine, but says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, +and tells stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The +thoughtful man is Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, +who will spend his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, +and this is his first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister +that has been bold enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; +"Is the colony supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our +mission talks of sending one to them if they would wish it." +</p> + +<p> +"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching, +as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination +is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no +church and no school house nearer than three miles." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the +people together." +</p> + +<p> +I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and +their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to +Valentine, and remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"I gathered some very interesting history from——" +</p> + +<p> +"Well if you believe all old —— tells you, you may just believe +everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured +a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and +listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter +recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random, +not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in +testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about +their ears." +</p> + +<p> +"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to +Valentine," I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort +sake, "no danger of you getting shot, <i>unless</i> by <i>mere +accident</i>. They are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never +known to insult a lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when +they are on a spree, they are as <i>wild</i> as <i>wild</i> can be;" +with an ominous shake of his head. +</p> + +<p> +"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?" +</p> + +<p> +"Can't say, indeed; <i>hope not</i>." +</p> + +<p> +"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he +could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his +hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and +baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one +lodged that came through the house. +</p> + +<p> +After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car +to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement +than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the +most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card +with: +</p> + +<p> +"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the +Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your +courage." +</p> + +<p> +I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake <cite>Tribune</cite>, +Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be +able to do them as much good as others of more experience could." +</p> + +<p> +I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would +be among them. Mrs. P. whispered: +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?" +</p> + +<p> +"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing +us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after +sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn +much of Valentine, I know all I care to now." +</p> + +<p> +The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy—I +could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he +wore—changed the subject with: +</p> + +<p> +"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no +alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this +railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many +a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a +good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these +sand hills then as there is now." +</p> + +<p> +Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through +all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look +old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks +all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home." +</p> + +<p> +Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression; +and I have been judging you so harshly. +</p> + +<p> +"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to +thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a +good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is +there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the +old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in +heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an +evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and +protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far +beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers +a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while +remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in +fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless +auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in +prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and +goodness, I go and feel I am not <i>alone</i>. Had it not been for my +faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey; +but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your +stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look +down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest +to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would +write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had +written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of +Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr. +Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So +gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not +care to sleep, for— +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet,</div> +<div>To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep.</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the +Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company. +</p> + +<p> +It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were +so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills +glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of +silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me +from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating +along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as +though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was +eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to +waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and +put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a +greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but +more interesting from its plainer view. +</p> + +<p> +It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country +as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door +of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level +grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and +sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely +anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries, +white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath +the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly +bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when +"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to +"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went +to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50 +cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the +depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four +passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered +about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from +it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the +bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon +door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs. +P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself +close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a +protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at +first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a +resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all +quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder. +Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and +soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I +would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down +stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the +fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man, +with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to +him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and +some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed +with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of +revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine +looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than +of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an +improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy +in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long +at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a +better life. +</p> + +<p> +Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened +expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home. +</p> + +<p> +One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his +head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face +I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general +favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going +away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know +how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number. +I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone, +excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to +read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your +sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so +often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a +wild misspent life. +</p> + +<p> +As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not +think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store +and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot. +Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear +banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but +was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to +walk about and see the town. +</p> + +<p> +The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what +looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray +rocks and pine trees. +</p> + +<p> +It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost +perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or +Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the +Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that +it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained +of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of +it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the +Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited +sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about +100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is +broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their +steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing +in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small +amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile +wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a +time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which +are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an +interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a +pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which +they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags +are lost to view in their own wanderings." +</p> + +<p> +Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was +but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the +town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from +Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand +banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy +homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and +two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the +Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and +number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land +office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land +of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about +twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is +not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very +long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known. +</p> + +<p> +About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and +returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left +there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade +Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest +wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant, +which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in. +</p> + +<p> +From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be +but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that +direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he +would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better +view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and +then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte +that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around +it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed, +and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over +Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even +extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any +information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that +afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians. +</p> + +<p> +The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that +was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see +a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"—a block house with +loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort +Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses, +most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square. +The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large, +handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings, +chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc. +Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and +reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the +officers and privates. +</p> + +<p> +The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under +restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is +punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods, +a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the +buildings are the stables—one for the gray and another for the sorrel +horses—about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules. +</p> + +<p> +The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small +trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly +termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the +driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that +it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to +duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at +a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are +boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for +driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received +fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their +wives there—and but few are allowed that privilege—do so with the +understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for +the soldiers in return for their own keeping. +</p> + +<p> +After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the +chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were +kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon +called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D. +entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never +was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time +in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of +interest about me, and my time so limited. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly +consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I +quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the +bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out +of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we +were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs +that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand +and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the +cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched +the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys +in one company, and sorrels in another. +</p> + +<p> +There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a +post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of +the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could +not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of +soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000 +Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so +disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be +retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole +keeper and support—"Uncle Sam." +</p> + +<p> +We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest +praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad, +as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my +own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he +spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of +brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn, +known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a +brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good +soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent +death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man +and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is +interesting, I will briefly repeat it: +</p> + +<p> +Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for +believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and +rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became +known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long +after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort, +and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took +with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they +had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock +fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot +by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to +let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the +confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians, +who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies +under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They +followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under +arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not +allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life—a poor +return for such a one as he had taken. +</p> + +<p> +He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this +the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker +of his life. +</p> + +<p> +When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail +was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians +were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let +Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when +Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the +agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted +Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the +wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely +followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave +himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but +has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort +Pierre. +</p> + +<p> +The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant. +</p> + +<p> +While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to +return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3 +o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he +immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a +half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And +bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our +way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange +beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short, +yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train +left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough +looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established +by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train. +The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of +ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on +us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we +wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine. +So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a +gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a +couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the +train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a +greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Do mules ever run off?" +</p> + +<p> +"Sometimes they do." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I guess not." +</p> + +<p> +And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long +lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train +on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government +mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not +add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the +very worst of mules. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off, +and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and +then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half +miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he +helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood—chips +from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of +our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet +as in the morning. +</p> + +<p> +I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr. +T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs, +which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large +cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground. +They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the +settling up of the country. +</p> + +<p> +Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th +meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river. +</p> + +<p> +When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the +man whom I thought must be a pony boy. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to +travel in only a baggage car!" +</p> + +<p> +"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back, +and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go." +</p> + +<p> +Mr. T. remarked: +</p> + +<p> +"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own +company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the +train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I +will speak to the conductor in your behalf. +</p> + +<p> +The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor +and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that +I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least +discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt +very much alone. +</p> + +<p> +"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I +sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I +sang—just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and +songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man +think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then +to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way, +and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was +always answered in the most respectful manner. +</p> + +<p> +I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a +sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any +one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and +whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely." +</p> + +<p> +Well, all I got written was: +</p> + +<p> +Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy +roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high; +river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through +a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom. +Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the +cuts. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Thatcher</span>, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the +train from their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8×10 deserted +store-house almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, +Vegetables, and Eggs," out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' +worth have been sold. Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin +fruit cans are strewn all around. +</p> + +<p> +To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level +grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told, +are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Arabia</span>, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Wood Lake</span>, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some +one has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is +scarcely a house to be seen. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Johnstown</span>, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking +on a better appearance—farm houses dotting the country in every +direction. Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty +little town, a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place +again. +</p> + +<p> +Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach +Long Pine about six o'clock. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I +have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises +and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence. +Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use +of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the +stranger for thinking so wrongly of him. +</p> + +<p> +Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth: +</p> + +<p> +Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J. +Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie, +fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south, +and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has +one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber +yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one +restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all +to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a +membership of thirteen. +</p> + +<p> +I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of +seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its +growth since then. +</p> + +<p> +Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been +decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated +portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the +people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question. +Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight +Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all +foreigners that go west. +</p> + +<p> +"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number +of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the +result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation +months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house. +</p> + +<p> +"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A +bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth. +There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river, +yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand +acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a +continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken. +The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and +the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance. +Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre. +</p> + +<p> +"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are +still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this +place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter +for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough +for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass. +</p> + +<p> +"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts. +The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will +give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its +merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per +acre; potatoes, weighing 3½ pounds, and 400 bushels per acre; +cabbage, 22 pounds——" +</p> + +<p> +This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so +favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort +Niobrara, that he disposed of his <cite>Tribune</cite> office, and returned, +and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken, +and located at Ainsworth. +</p> + +<p> +I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of +later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's +stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking. +</p> + +<p> +You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in +preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services +in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One +saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the +saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but +did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the +stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet +with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who +join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt +there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry +(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many +of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are +runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting +stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and +the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who +remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer +in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are +spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for +a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in +looking." +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +LONG PINE. +</p> + +<p> +After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek +of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery +and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there +could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of +nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired +early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this +hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests +the better for its absence. +</p> + +<p> +The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long +Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself +started early for the bridge. +</p> + +<p> +It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it +is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view +by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine +trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the +table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among +the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct +springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream +below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep +pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away, +and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs, +and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara. +We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can +south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the +trees loftier. +</p> + +<p> +It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to +grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge +and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross +the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and +branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the +springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on +a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water, +and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view +the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so +romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's +winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up +by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on +until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold +wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering +Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow +pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge +and beyond we went, following down the stream. +</p> + +<p> +Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so +grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania +hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from +twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand +and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials, +and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs. +</p> + +<p> +Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the +pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back +from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear +conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no +less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too, +preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever +since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post +until the end. +</p> + +<p> +But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where +a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H. +stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon +a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of +the distance that lay between me and home came before me. +</p> + +<p> +"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought, +but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that +is all powerful in every hour and need. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come +from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native +state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large +double log house on the banks of the Pine—a very pretty spot they +claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and +said: +</p> + +<p> +"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go +to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see +some one from home, it would almost cure me!" +</p> + +<p> +It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh, +Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us +of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black +Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the +few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath +School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a +neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had +been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering. +And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call. +</p> + +<p> +We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their +home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not +allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and +promised to spend Monday with them. +</p> + +<p> +We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E. +services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday</i>—Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the +Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of +all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are +leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek, +"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs +are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these +cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and +"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a +wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was +explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in +the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her +trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word, +"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only +did our duty." +</p> + +<p> +We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was +so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can +and will care for his children when they call upon him. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY. +</p> + +<p> +"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the +spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health, +but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the +Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched +our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where +Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days, +when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the +other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves +that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after +asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little +house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and +perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the +river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards. +</p> + +<p> +The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the +Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the +ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the +men, left as soon as his duty was performed. +</p> + +<p> +About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of +Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to +Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented +that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of +which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife +strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself—and at that time +sick—signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to +sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them. +</p> + +<p> +He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far +until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding +him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead. +</p> + +<p> +This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the +shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our +tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison +house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by +a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with +crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their +leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other, +with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render +him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a +worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and +would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our +tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put +his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the +hill and entreated those who came to turn back. +</p> + +<p> +When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon +came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we +were not again disturbed. +</p> + +<p> +Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha +for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest +but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the +tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the +long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant +action. +</p> + +<p> +Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for +fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply +of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the +man, and morning came and found him still living. +</p> + +<p> +Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that +our children were safe. +</p> + +<p> +Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he +very badly needed. +</p> + +<p> +After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men, +friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of +Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were +his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with +their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as +guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver. +</p> + +<p> +Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him +to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when +they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to +land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I +was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on +to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we +had pursued. +</p> + +<p> +The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles +away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to +depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated +through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if +Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and +warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save +ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take +whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that +our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we +had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with +us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come +again, and urged me to go with her to her home. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you <i>must not</i> leave me!" and +then the thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her +own life for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone. +</p> + +<p> +When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could +not refrain from singing, +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"Through this changing world below,</div> +<div>Lead me gently, gently, as I go;</div> +<div>Trusting Thee, I cannot stray,</div> +<div>I can never, never lose my way."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over +the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came +upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst +you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper, +"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against +thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but +greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though +surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R. +came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home +she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own +safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all +dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain. +</p> + +<p> +Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the +appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting +and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday. +</p> + +<p> +On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a +prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do +hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for +he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old. +</p> + +<p> +(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of +his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all +his bad deeds behind.) +</p> + +<p> +Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death +blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we +did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton. +</p> + +<p> +We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles +further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five +hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only +remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we +could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the +frontier again. +</p> + +<p> +In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never +experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for +a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they +would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their +revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was +done to assure me that I was safe at their hands. +</p> + +<p> + +</p> + +<p> +I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I +repeat only truth. +</p> + +<p> +And now to her collection of curiosities—but can only mention a few: +One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two +feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed +the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they +left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had +been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of +which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in +circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the +point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white, +and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered +from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors. +As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to +a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did +not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking. +</p> + +<p> +It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But +what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our +guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me +with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities. +</p> + +<p> +There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be +persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet +had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the +beaver with only their four front teeth. +</p> + +<p> +The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine, +cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of +a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal +of lumber. +</p> + +<p> +Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he +was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in +April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular +services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown, +Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all. +</p> + +<p> +Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing +between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the +spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora +Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak +and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr. +S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state, +and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my +newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but, +best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat." +</p> + +<p> +But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the +beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in +June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H. +Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and +pitched a boarding tent, 14×16, from which they fed the workmen on the +railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was +followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now +there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one +drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant. +Population 175. +</p> + +<p> +From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean +the following: +</p> + +<p> +"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you +visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put +up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22×86, ten +two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of +both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved +into their 20×40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second +story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's +hardware, where also religious services are regularly held. +Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree. +The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is +proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting +in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a +saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine, +three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing +pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty +bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato +raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured +twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half +short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of +north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast +disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of +what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back +from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles. +</p> + +<p> +"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for +nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber +culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded +lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been +taken up during the past year. +</p> + +<p> +"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our +county, and find as follows: +</p> + +<p> +"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters +to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters. +Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it +will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead, +pre-emption, and timber culture laws. +</p> + +<p> +"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen +miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across +the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter." +</p> + +<p> +From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country +well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county +is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average +favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further +developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be +a good producing soil." +</p> + +<p> +Water is good and easily obtained. +</p> + +<p> +The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the +creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around +on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a +distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long +Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery. +</p> + +<p> +The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are +of a clear, white sand. +</p> + +<p> +But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has +been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be +eastward bound. +</p> + +<p> +Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back +from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on +the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new +merchant just opening a store near the colony. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so +pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the +cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were +drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he +and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very +unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a +ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better +life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole +use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to +lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift +given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone +would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat; +so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep. +</p> + +<p> +How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs. +Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back." +</p> + +<p> +Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219 +miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry +brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to +themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of +the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two +occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first +train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter +Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on +the south. +</p> + +<p> +Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up +of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new, +rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first, +until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere. +</p> + +<p> +But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of +Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is +permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then +the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty. +</p> + +<p> +So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.), +which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general +stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm +implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and +blacksmith shop, and a bank. +</p> + +<p> +Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was +visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on +the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has +here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of +April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out +from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and +shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the +story of the first chapter. +</p> + +<p> +Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I +have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that +the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very +appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C." +</p> + +<p> +From The Stuart <cite>Ledger</cite> we quote: The Methodists have organized +with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the +building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev. +Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson +is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of +Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24×42, where over +60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss +Mamie Woods. An opera house 22×60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's +building, 18×24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist, +and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will +close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received +from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24: +"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two +months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come +in their 'schooners.' +</p> + +<p> +"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three +feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly +enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December." +</p> + +<p> +But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion"; +of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as +satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe +its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape, +and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets, +closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth, +and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your +satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full +length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want +to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and +was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can +be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel; +and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all +I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists, +and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing +"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart. +</p> + +<p> +The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr. +Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family. +Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard. +</p> + +<p> +Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the +following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place: +"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two +hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a +population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine +month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about +$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson <cite>Graphic</cite>, +several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention. +Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about +500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county +during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa, +though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles +east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last +March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday +school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can +be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by +next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily +obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton." +</p> + +<p> +I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded +coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114 +miles, to attend Robinson's circus—but shows are a rarity here. The +light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding +country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling +prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there +settlers' homes with their culture of timber. +</p> + +<p> +O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians, +and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt +county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches, +Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It +has three papers, The <cite>Frontier</cite>, Holt County +<cite>Banner</cite>, both republican, and O'Neill <cite>Tribune</cite>, +Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a mile from the river. Gen. +O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha. +</p> + +<p> +Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the +Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this +point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was +completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college +located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81. +U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83. +County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a +private enterprise by the citizens. +</p> + +<p> +I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also +given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless +to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well +represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will +bring into a western town. +</p> + +<p> +To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much +that has already been said of others, and the story of their added +years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of +to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further? +</p> + +<p> +The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright, +new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost +weaving high. +</p> + +<p> +It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as +we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties. +</p> + +<p> +That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road +to Missouri Valley—its starting point—and for this we have Mr. J. R. +Buchanan for authority. +</p> + +<p> +There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of +the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in +1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New +Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road. +Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was +worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population; +is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the +vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no +superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of +wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn. +Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre, +now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00. +</p> + +<p> +The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached +Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about +100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad +was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the +direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black +Hills. +</p> + +<p> +As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it +will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri +river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the +channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until +the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000 +feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments +built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the +river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over +$1,000,000. +</p> + +<p> +But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must +leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter. +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="III"> </a> +CHAPTER III. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln. — A +description of the great Platte Valley. +</p> + + +<p> +I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a +depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to +putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master +until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge +storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to +remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act +of kindness shown me already. +</p> + +<p> +At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket +agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road, +which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am +glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed +at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer. +Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot." +</p> + +<p> +"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the +telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could +not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of +colonizing on the frontier." +</p> + +<p> +"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have +been inquiring for you—but you must stop on your return and see the +beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you." +</p> + +<p> +Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was +not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were +thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to +see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was +almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden. +I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded +westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn. +</p> + +<p> +The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren +of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is +lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied +and much under cultivation. +</p> + +<p> +I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the +railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its +amber light, making it a beautiful sight. +</p> + +<p> +Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from +an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles +wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and +hindered all further sight-seeing. +</p> + +<p> +The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out +of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares, +"It is just good for him—no business to let the man get his hand on +his money!" +</p> + +<p> +"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the +conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat, +assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the +old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to +protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the +conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss." +</p> + +<p> +I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour +would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot, +but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me +with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!" +</p> + +<p> +We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our +letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity +and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found +Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me. +</p> + +<p> +To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo +Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and +trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning +much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we +found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a +long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from +the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters: +Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black +hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color +and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet +teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is +taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but +delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features +and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet +of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young. +</p> + +<p> +It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate +as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and +the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void +the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed +enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with +his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has +always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him. +</p> + +<p> +To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the +"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the +following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill." +</p> + +<p> +His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport, +Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport. +Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature +from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at +Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was +occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on +reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to +California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers +and Mormons. +</p> + +<p> +Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their +language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance +and shoot with bow and arrow. +</p> + +<p> +In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that +had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery +man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a +burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he +died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for +burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of +armed men came to take the life that had just gone out. +</p> + +<p> +Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing +service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first +blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl +sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and +thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and +took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him +from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely +forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the +employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty +being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City +to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the +Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of +the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great +freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity +of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train +consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a +railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of +transportation beyond the states. +</p> + +<p> +It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his +first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a +party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the +cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing +several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from +the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the +creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first +shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young +as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has +since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage +driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government, +which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very +best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa +Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature +in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his +exhibitions on the stage. +</p> + +<p> +When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of, +they just call it buffalo —— and as a consequence, there are buffalo +gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss, +grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when +he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the +Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day. +</p> + +<p> +I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the +country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn +of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost +every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta +and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln +county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the +sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte +rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December, +1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the +town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had +to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars. +</p> + +<p> +North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business +houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land +office of the western district embraces the government land of +Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and +Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the +surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as +stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is +quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are +fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but +those which have been cultivated. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of +the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and +painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited +to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door +six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without +ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens +and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were +discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room, +thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how +they would enjoy it. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests, +but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed +the joke." +</p> + +<p> +Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was +abandoned four years ago. +</p> + +<p> +Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to +be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot, +I left Monday evening for Plum Creek. +</p> + +<p> +How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and +whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of +adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about +their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the +lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away. +</p> + +<p> +I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the +east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do +better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken +mother. +</p> + +<p> +"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us +on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester, +N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave +lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last +summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I +die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for +the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more +than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely +child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'" +</p> + +<p> +Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been +interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady +from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how +they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not +be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never +been without a snow-cap since she first saw them. +</p> + +<p> +Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to +meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we +preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the +gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston +House. +</p> + +<p> +I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania +about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum +creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the +little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming +Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum +Creek. +</p> + +<p> +Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to +Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April, +1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still +holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station +house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he +built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present +town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one +mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile +further west. +</p> + +<p> +Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County <cite>Pioneer</cite>, +of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history: +</p> + +<p> +"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the +organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71, +at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the +entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told. +But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous +people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated +March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the +Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point. +</p> + +<p> +"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs +affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians. +</p> + +<p> +"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte +river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was +celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of +Columbus. +</p> + +<p> +"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the +churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their +religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the +Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of +'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the +county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev. +Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in +'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the +Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian +congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary. +</p> + +<p> +"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and +far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska +colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under +charge of F. J. Pearson. +</p> + +<p> +"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their +first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the +U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses." +</p> + +<p> +I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor <cite>Pioneer</cite>, +whom I questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained +have done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther +west, until there is not many of us left; only about eight families +that are now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by +the grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was +very discouraging." +</p> + +<p> +I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove +their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be +driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe. +</p> + +<p> +"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the +treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of +light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after +they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose +mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal, +seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west +of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which +two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still +living." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel +in a 16×20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men, +who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they +could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is +now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek. +</p> + +<p> +While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact +some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked— +</p> + +<p> +"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him +how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I +can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?' +No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married. +He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take +you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John +Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a +family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania. +</p> + +<p> +The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even +this opportunity to get to my friends. +</p> + +<p> +Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white +with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of +it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the +bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph +Butterbaugh—our old neighbor—coming to town, and who was greatly +surprised, as they had not received my letter. +</p> + +<p> +We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and +sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces, +just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along +the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to +our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely +improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others +where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod +houses). +</p> + +<p> +Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one +herd, making it dangerous for travelers. +</p> + +<p> +Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house +built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any +lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are +built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building +of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then +built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the +summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a +good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for +sheep. +</p> + +<p> +Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box +nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and +receives the mail. +</p> + +<p> +Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad +land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for +pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod. +</p> + +<p> +Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8×10 frame, where +the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for +holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in. +</p> + +<p> +It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the +stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon +us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in +my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I +know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily +sang: +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild,</div> +<div>And feel that my mother now thinks of her child,</div> +<div>As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door,</div> +<div>Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined +by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and +together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I +sing with more emphasis than— +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>"Oh give me back my native hills,</div> +<div>Rough, rugged though they be,</div> +<div>No other land, no other clime</div> +<div>Is half so dear to me."</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in +the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying: +</p> + +<p> +"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and +sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I +don't think I have tried to sing it since." +</p> + +<p> +All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I +thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes +down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until +it echoed from bluff to bluff. +</p> + +<p> +But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr. +A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the +morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr. +A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her. +</p> + +<p> +Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with +me on that morning ride. +</p> + +<p> +Rough? +</p> + +<p> +There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some +things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt, +as that horse <i>tried</i> to trot—perhaps it was my poke hat that was +coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted +Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot. +</p> + +<p> +When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go +three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast. +</p> + +<p> +"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow: +mind, we don't want to be going round many corners." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you; +can you stand another trot?" +</p> + +<p> +And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and +laugh at my attempt at riding. +</p> + +<p> +It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's +sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered—"Breakfast +for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill +into a "grand gallop." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my +laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the +door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the +laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after +all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one. +Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the +river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded +away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie, +bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old +friends. +</p> + +<p> +We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs +and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the <i>swing</i> very +much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a +half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to +come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To +peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight +to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of +one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the +Platte river three miles away—the river a mile in width, and the wide +valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The +U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the +trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the +east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes +Cozad, Willow Island—almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first +house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add +the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83: +</p> + +<p> +Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five +families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to +be more than doubled by spring. +</p> + +<p> +But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after +wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight +until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills +and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or +pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a +river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and +are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call +calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They +seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed +with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how æsthetic we have +grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect—would much +rather look at the deer tracks. +</p> + +<p> +The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and +cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all +taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain +cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun +with grape-vines. +</p> + +<p> +Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring +it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor +fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower? +But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown +doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt +bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I +returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very +deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not +touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so +lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it—well, he didn't catch the +rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Sunday.</i> We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and +Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with +Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner +time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen—only a few +willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected +from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a +garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest +flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms +same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is +not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk? +</p> + +<p> +The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the +widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the +north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of +the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water +is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the +table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we +heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?" +I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a +boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing +if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that +pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves +of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width, +and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of +everything but grass. +</p> + +<p> +The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting +of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that +rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the +North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the +north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It +has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and +rapid—running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and +changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its +brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under +ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican +river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than +the Platte. +</p> + +<p> +We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of +our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound +train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have +described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our +colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought +large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the +Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give +depth of soil and its production, but will add the following: +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels +wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30; +and barley about 40 bushels per acre. +</p> + +<p> +First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of +December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was +108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below, +which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as +high as 36 above since. +</p> + +<p> +The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. & +M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R. +</p> + +<p> +In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the +same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county. +First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in +'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list +shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north +side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160 +miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in +'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that +time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and +bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a +canal to utilize the waters of the Platte. +</p> + +<p> +Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that +hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar, +maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont, +named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842 +and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed +but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and +silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river +and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his +mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large +and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated +at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but +now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches. +It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must +add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any +sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for +some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near +the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are +entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun. +</p> + +<p> +I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along +the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance +as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha +about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had +breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt +Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R. +land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well. +</p> + +<p> +Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha +Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was +made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been +ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska +shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the +present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a +homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was +founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied +across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge +completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the +first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten +dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha, +and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill. +</p> + +<p> +The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected +for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton, +Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa +shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the +Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to +make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren +plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet +above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water +tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis. +It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha +now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's +principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient. +</p> + +<p> +I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and +as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln, +about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master, +and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed +to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington +House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my +friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman +to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and +that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homœopathic +physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners +live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania. +But a better thought came—that of the Baptist minister, as they +attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and +through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a +long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your +friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us +to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his +kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin +Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather +long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met. +"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if +you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile +walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City +Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I +have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find +the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood +waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln +in my walking up and down—at least all I cared to. But the welcome +"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the +kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its +unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I +was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own +garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling +stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing +but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia +Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of +finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie, +you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in +Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor." +</p> + +<p> +And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing +this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska. +Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty +miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction, +in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which +connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was +the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is +4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J. +W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company +yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where +some government land is yet to be had. +</p> + +<p> +A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln, +Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April +24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have +gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in +unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty +acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan, +in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying +their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land +within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all +government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest +fit only for grazing. +</p> + +<p> +This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on +Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with +much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue." +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="IV"> </a> +CHAPTER IV. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return +via Hastings. — A description of the Republican and +Blue Valleys. — The Saratoga of Nebraska. +</p> + + +<p> +We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making +point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for +"Danger"—danger of it biting me or getting away—my prairie dog, which +had found a home in a barrel. +</p> + +<p> +One evening Cousin Andy said: +</p> + +<p> +"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?" +</p> + +<p> +"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they +make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that +reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering +the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in +the side told the story. +</p> + +<p> +I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price +for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a +Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him. +</p> + +<p> +The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor +table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found +him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know +just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with +heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but +by morning the ground would be in good working order. +</p> + +<p> +Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for +several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county +field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving +their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now +earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation. +</p> + +<p> +When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was +entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so +completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob +Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built +railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the +way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in +the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres, +and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers +until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads, +settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has +an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon. +</p> + +<p> +I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent +of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and +while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the +third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central +Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +After a few moments conversation, he asked: +</p> + +<p> +"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?" +</p> + +<p> +"Indiana county." +</p> + +<p> +"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is +dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me +all kindness and interest. +</p> + +<p> +At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of +his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same +kindness and attention that every one does at his hands. +</p> + +<p> +"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern +Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that +truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then +seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends +and more of the state. +</p> + +<p> +A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face +was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me +she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not +expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last. +</p> + +<p> +Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience: +I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three +months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word +of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my +young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously +ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her +off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that +she might find her brother better. +</p> + +<p> +The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my +eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect +snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression +from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but +that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention +by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold +and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little +ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just +as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look +as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first +foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a +settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely +together as possible. +</p> + +<p> +I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I +had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, sir." +</p> + +<p> +"To Mr. Fulton's?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, yes. You know my friends then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew +where you were going." +</p> + +<p> +No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but +then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are +different people. +</p> + +<p> +"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed +at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was +the one she had expected." +</p> + +<p> +"You know where they live then?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you +to the house." +</p> + +<p> +With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to +his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when +I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous +week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my +Uncle's door. +</p> + +<p> +"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around +me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often. +</p> + +<p> +"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to +go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought +you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us +yesterday." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the +depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just +when I am given up for good." +</p> + +<p> +Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his +motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over, +Aunt said: +</p> + +<p> +"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!" +</p> + +<p> +"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?" +</p> + +<p> +"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, not a word." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about +now." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then +I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps +already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of +what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God +in His great loving kindness is sparing us! +</p> + +<p> +I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle +John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same +village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the +year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the +saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and +baby Ruth, with malaria fever. +</p> + +<p> +To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs—a +town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the +banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great +volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber—honey locust, elm, +box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees +and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches +in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska, +and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long. +</p> + +<p> +I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to +us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just +as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among +the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers +of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says: +</p> + +<p> +"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in +this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J. +H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first +surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were +Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek +is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs. +</p> + +<p> +"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among +us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had +been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the +first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the +Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only +three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers. +Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of +flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them +quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a +sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed +to a post for everybody to use. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two +months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell +everybody else to come. And come they did—walking, riding in ox +wagons, and any way at all—until in all there was 150 of us. The +ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress +in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the +dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn +dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn. +The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We +sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers +with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some +war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight. +Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind. +So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all +summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow +bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and—well, that corn +money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500 +bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as +this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160 +acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for +$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000. +</p> + +<p> +"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together +in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us +prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle +to the Otoe Indians on the reservation. +</p> + +<p> +"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor +pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the +field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with +their ponies. +</p> + +<p> +"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from +Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week +from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars +a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody +went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission +Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday +morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80. +</p> + +<p> +"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and +surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life +we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted +me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't +see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out +to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how +much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on +the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody +calls me 'Pap Tyler.'" +</p> + +<p> +I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the +Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom +of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were +about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old +ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not +that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a +country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the +people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated +man. I marked him—fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the +state. The programme of the day was as follows: +</p> + +<ul> +<li><span class="sc">Song</span>—<i>The Red, White, and Blue</i>. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Declaration of Independence</span>—Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of twelve years. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Song</span>—<i>Night Before the Battle</i>. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>—<i>Our Schools</i>. Responded to by J. C. Burch. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>—<i>Our Railroads</i>. Rev. J. M. Pryse. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Music</span>—By the band. +</li> +<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>—<i>Our Neighbors</i>. Rev. E. H. Burrington. +</li> +</ul> + +<p> +Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and +with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their +dinners. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat +my dinner under the flag with a stain—a rebel flag of eleven stars and +three stripes—a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast. +</p> + +<p> +In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom +tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the +celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +WYMORE +</p> + +<p> +Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost +an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the +spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the +ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640 +acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here +sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed. +</p> + +<p> +One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little +shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built +homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you +what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat +Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall, +Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of +their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising +western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on +Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The +heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a +feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool +and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon +almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush, +or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day." +</p> + +<p> +It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will +shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake. +</p> + +<p> +The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is +a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but +one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and +south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two +miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it +with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary. +</p> + +<p> +Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue +on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six +miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another +creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800, +on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and +west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the +agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at +the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied. +</p> + +<p> +A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency." +It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the +30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a +"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I +felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so +desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting +posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the +head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and +hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little +ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy +hunting-ground." +</p> + +<p> +This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other +tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new +home in the Indian Territory. +</p> + +<p> +The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in +places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see +Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun +was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska +breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until +the stars were shining. +</p> + +<p> +For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw +working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached +to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and +the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans; +minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking +these days when it says 100° in the shade, cool, and if you can't take +them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not +do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled +over and broke the bulb. +</p> + +<p> +There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came +in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a +cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or +two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and +shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner +of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie +and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> +train, July 5th. +</p> + +<p> +I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all +crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such +a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these +dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as +though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and +friends. +</p> + +<p> +Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and +nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and +now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy +meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of +the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along: +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ODELL, +</p> + +<p> +A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet +well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent +the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the +Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins +hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's +planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with +bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark +muddy water that covers the bottom. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +DILLER, +</p> + +<p> +A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing +platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and +grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is +running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +INDIAN CREEK. +</p> + +<p> +Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now +just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill +killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they +were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for +thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly +defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his +hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill +from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer +used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians, +and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The +stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place, +and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ENDICOTT, +</p> + +<p> +A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the +centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing +through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear +door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +REYNOLDS, +</p> + +<p> +A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good +homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so +good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the +hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in +bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is +running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why +Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the +left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I +do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence. +Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor +looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of +cattle grazing. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +HUBBELL. +</p> + +<p> +Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power; +only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall +wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county, +which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of +Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have +since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five, +wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in +this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in +hand, and was referred to —— —— for information, who asked— +</p> + +<p> +"Are you writing for the <cite>Inter Ocean</cite>?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied. +</p> + +<p> +"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a +lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their +publication." +</p> + +<p> +I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work. +</p> + +<p> +We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls +county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old +schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking +since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me +to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard +some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand, +gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just +beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that +points its spire heavenward through his labors. +</p> + +<p> +The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all +the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the +friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three +little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the +beauties of the "Garden of the West." +</p> + +<p> +The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we +cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling, +and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land, +with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The +prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our +portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower. +While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a +faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier. +They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves +sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing. +</p> + +<p> +Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to +think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these +great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a +weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is +almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make +one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of +black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with +Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some +years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk +house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a +wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs +when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in +any direction. +</p> + +<p> +I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky +waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and +go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay +with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one +who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have +you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I +was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I +<i>must</i> go, and sunset saw me off. +</p> + +<p> +All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge +I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough—sandy bed and banks, +trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there +only in wet weather. +</p> + +<p> +I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles +north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for +several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean +passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks +of the Republican. +</p> + +<p> +So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will +know what they are. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +SUPERIOR +</p> + +<p> +Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The +Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not +catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I +thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not +understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much +emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on the +beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains he +has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I <i>just love</i> +to go fossiling! Don't you <i>love</i> to go fossiling, Miss?" +</p> + +<p> +"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know +it is just too <i>lovely</i> for <i>anything</i>." +</p> + +<p> +It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern +people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not +tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers, +and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I +went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next +morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine +and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on +all of the three railroads. +</p> + +<p> +I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have +always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive, +and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his +engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great +throbbing heart of the Centennial—the Corliss engine, excited my +admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the +Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore +with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and +all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned +to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at +Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a +ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long +wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the +fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the +window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that +amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a +minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my +impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was +there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I +appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola. +</p> + +<p> +"Fourteen miles," was the reply. +</p> + +<p> +Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the +engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a +bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and +let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the +wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place. +When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they +had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen +minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as +he did so, asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Well, did they go pretty fast?" +</p> + +<p> +"I don't know, did they?" I replied. +</p> + +<p> +I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at +McCook. +</p> + +<p> +After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the +seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the +railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the +little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a +population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks +of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of +the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up +with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place +I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford, +Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first +house was built in June, '82. +</p> + +<p> +I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of +the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is +seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the +appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame +house, build one that will look well at a distance. +</p> + +<p> +Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried +from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and +located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at +a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook +<cite>Tribune</cite>, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then +in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near +which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed +through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained +from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as +has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained, +and brick is cheaper than in the east. +</p> + +<p> +From a copy of the Daily <cite>Tribune</cite>, I read a long list of +business firms and professional cards, and finished with, "<i>no +saloons</i>." +</p> + +<p> +The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics +worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given +the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called +upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from +home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the +east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the +east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook. +I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the +Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She +told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the +ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general. +</p> + +<p> +"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found +in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few +days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can +and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an +engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without +seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this +road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness +that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to +point out all that was of interest, along the way." +</p> + +<p> +The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops, +with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken +claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought +80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the +homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough +to go into stock-raising. +</p> + +<p> +This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western +part of Hitchcock county. +</p> + +<p> +Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight +counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The +40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the +Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is +easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well +sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south. +These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood, +and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly +populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone, +the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty +of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and +will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go. +</p> + +<p> +A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado, +are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand, +and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side +and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by +the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was. +</p> + +<p> +The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond +lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does +not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars +in all shapes and little islands of green—there it winds to the south +and is lost to sight—herds of cattle—corn field—river again with +willow fringed bank—cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand, +or they would not be there long—river gone again—tall willow +grove—wire fencing—creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width. +Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles +long, and cattle grazing in it—all fenced in until we reach +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +INDIANOLA, +</p> + +<p> +one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was +surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was +slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400 +inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses' +from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and +school house—great herd of cattle—wilderness of sunflowers turning +their bright faces to the sun—now nothing but grass—corral made of +logs—corn and potatoes—out of the old sod into the nice new +frame—river beautifully wooded—valley about four miles wide from +bluff to bluff—dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at +home—board fence. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +CAMBRIDGE. +</p> + +<p> +Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring +mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose +shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple +shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers. +</p> + +<p> +Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo +wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ARAPAHOE. +</p> + +<p> +Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and +bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on +their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern +point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty +miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that +neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are +two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was +platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in +sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them! +didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in +very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream +no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its +banks. River close; trees—there, it and the trees are both gone south. +Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +OXFORD. +</p> + +<p> +Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north; +town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a +Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for +mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and +cattle, cattle—What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out +west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan +county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small +towns, but will not be so long. +</p> + +<p> +Here we are at +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ORLEANS. +</p> + +<p> +A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the +north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before +me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her +company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream +called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which +the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the +town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and +for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their +right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles +east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400 +of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county +seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its +interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land. +Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land; +large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old +sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +ALMA. +</p> + +<p> +Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the +table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the +county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town. +</p> + +<p> +That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near +Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the +interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her +fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only +passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove +the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other +talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +REPUBLICAN CITY. +</p> + +<p> +Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400. +Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would +be more plenty. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +NAPONEE. +</p> + +<p> +Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in +sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Bloomington</span>—the "Highland City"—the county seat of Franklin +county, and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful +valley, nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public +buildings, and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian +churches, a large Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, +a large creamery, and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians +are excellent judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch +of country, although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The +Pawnees were the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I +do not wonder that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown +into a grand possession for their white brothers. +</p> + +<p> +I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half +and use a dash for the rest of the words cor—, pota—, bush—, tre—, +riv—. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that +wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a +good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it +came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre— or bus—; +well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive +roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the +river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have +ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for +awhile, and just then you haven't. +</p> + +<p> +But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at +<span class="sc">Franklin</span>, a real good solid town. First house built July, +1879. I never can guess how many people live in a town by looking at it +from a car window. How do I know how many there are at work in the +creamery, flouring mill, and woolen factory? And how many pupils are +studying in the Franklin Academy, a fine two-story building erected by +the Republican Valley Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? +First term opened Dec. 6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is +$12,000, and they propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and +seven students have been enrolled during the present term. And how many +little boys and girls in the common school building? or how many are in +their nicely painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and +dug-outs in the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of +the ground? It takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds +of houses to make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, +oats, millet, broom corn, and all <i>sich</i>—good all the way along +this valley. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +RIVERTON. +</p> + +<p> +A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in +ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M. +Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to +$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great +fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now; +there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of +the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the +Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it +brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the +bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes" +and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One +minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as +though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a +direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile. +Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has +stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed! +Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles +away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +RED CLOUD! +</p> + +<p> +Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud, +I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams +were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I +stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad; +first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that +hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my +foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new +moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the +Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking +up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a +rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last +came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes +into a silent prayer: +</p> + +<p> +"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!" +</p> + +<p> +I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage, +enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me +into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant +lady, and soon I was listening to the following story: +</p> + +<p> +"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers, +and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which +much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other +settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several +settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently +visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for +taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people +stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of +logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first +winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in +the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this +spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but +was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on +the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and +as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also +plenty of elk, antelope, and deer. +</p> + +<p> +"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in +my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes +polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the +summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer +county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72, +and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe." +</p> + +<p> +The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told +of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I +could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he +is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo +meat hung to the ceiling, and added: +</p> + +<p> +"I spent many a happy day there." +</p> + +<p> +Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving +well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a +dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden +even by the most humble abode. +</p> + +<p> +The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same +as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and +have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's +children. +</p> + +<p> +When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said: +</p> + +<p> +"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as +Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness, +for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in +the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days +and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery—her native +state. +</p> + +<p> +The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing +the surrounding beauties of their home. +</p> + +<p> +"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years +ago—fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some +think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while +Mrs. G. says: +</p> + +<p> +"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if +I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in +the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and +phaeton to take me to the depot. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming +and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large +photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more +of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14×16 +hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out: +</p> + +<p> +"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good +home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud, +which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for +their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over +sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100 +miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their +groceries. +</p> + +<p> +As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from +centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which +Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had +made that he paid for in years of service to his country. +</p> + +<p> +When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450 +inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the +B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster +county, and surrounded by a rich country—need I add more? +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +AMBOY. +</p> + +<p> +A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with +bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +COWLES. +</p> + +<p> +Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to +be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I +feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling +to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another +how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic +thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will +cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he +wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more +than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes +and groves of trees. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +BLUE HILL. +</p> + +<p> +A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that +blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy +life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers +with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by +only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and +smiles upon me even here. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>Bloom, little flower, all the way along,</div> +<div>Sing to us travelers your own quiet song,</div> +<div>Speak to us softly, gently, and low,</div> +<div>Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know?</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick. +</p> + +<p> +This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it +so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of +trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of +the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +AYR +</p> + +<p> +Was but a small town, so we go on to <span class="sc">Hastings</span>, a town of over +5,000 inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six +miles west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The +B. & M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it +was not a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. +Joe & Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point +in the following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W. +Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors +of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same +year, the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, +the salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the +state for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is +nicely built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from +fires. I notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep +here. The surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking +good. +</p> + +<p> +Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are +all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all. +I notice the churches are well attended. +</p> + +<p> +A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and, +as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better +my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken +stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that +condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I +cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good +young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was +intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any +one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such +a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as +this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he +passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all +for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most +insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is +Sunday. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +CRETE. +</p> + +<p> +Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue +river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant, +shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy +retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre +of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds +of the N.S.S.A.A. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +LINCOLN. +</p> + +<p> +Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to +watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when +I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking +through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind +upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I +didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he +had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am +only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him +I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for +me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my +friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I +thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had +a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on. +After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one +of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them +another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as +they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Monday.</i> Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without +it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your +baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about +it." +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for +this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had." +"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would +replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and +button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will +never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never +replace. No, I <i>must</i> not lose it!" And then I stole away and went +to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that +help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and +as I prayed this lesson came to me—How alarmed I am over the loss of a +little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when +so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and +each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read +and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things. +And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten. +</p> + +<p> +I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good, +nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would +just take a good cry over it, and—but won't I hug my dusty satchels if +I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I +supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for +me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own. +</p> + +<p> +So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie +took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the +nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so +slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But +I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a +minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the +depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble, +but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the +faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I +turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage, +little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my +fan. "Oh dear, I am <i>so</i> glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my +satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to +give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting +attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch +my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to +do better.—I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a +thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the +Republican valley, and then about my baggage. +</p> + +<p> +"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?" +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old +lady, and must go and see to it." +</p> + +<p> +When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both +gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked: +</p> + +<p> +"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?" +</p> + +<p> +"Nothing; I did not know you had found it." +</p> + +<p> +Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said: +</p> + +<p> +"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to." +</p> + +<p> +"The conductor carried it away." +</p> + +<p> +"Where did he go to?" +</p> + +<p> +"I don't know, Miss." +</p> + +<p> +Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought. +</p> + +<p> +"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had +followed me. "What's gone?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, my baggage; it's gone again." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in +here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov. +Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all +carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad, +and a good lesson learned. +</p> + +<p> +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at +Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July +20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this +table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under +the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are +as follows: +</p> + +<table summary="Divisions and mileage"> +<tr> +<td>Pacific Junction to Kearney</td> +<td class="right">196</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Omaha line</td> +<td class="right">17</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nebraska City to Central City</td> +<td class="right">150</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nebraska City to Beatrice</td> +<td class="right">92</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Atchison to Columbus</td> +<td class="right">221</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Crete to Red Cloud</td> +<td class="right">150</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Table Rock to Wymore</td> +<td class="right">38</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Hastings to Culbertson</td> +<td class="right">171</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Denver Extension</td> +<td class="right">244</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford</td> +<td class="right">77</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Chester to Hebron</td> +<td class="right">12</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>DeWitt to West Line</td> +<td class="right">25</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Odell to Washington, Kan.</td> +<td class="right">26</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Nemaha to Salem</td> +<td class="right">18</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the +C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous +"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between +Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management, +tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are +entirely avoided. +</p> + +<p> +P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at +the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent, +while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R. +Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct +all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His +thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having +spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for +this office. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +MILFORD. +</p> + +<p> +"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue" +river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of +thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and +sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr. +Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I +was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs. +Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who +located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in +'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by +the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town +that afterward grew up about him. +</p> + +<p> +Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made +very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land +of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through +the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers +and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the +common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due +west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr. +Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is +now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies. +Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes +and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a +log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A +saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at +hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his +flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none +other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of +the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs. +Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from +her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were +competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and +I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest." +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a +broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away +captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was +very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it. +</p> + +<p> +In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies +high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then +winding down canyon Seata, <i>little</i> canyon, we crossed the River +to the Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, +hickory, and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines—one +we measured being sixteen inches in circumference—while a cottonwood +measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor +where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the +Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its +shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But +pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling +Springs." +</p> + +<p> +Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring +flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay +into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes, +but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened +rock. +</p> + +<p> +The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine +for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the +running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house +in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in +'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and +gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley +<cite>Record</cite>." Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the +"<cite>Congregational News</cite>" in '78. +</p> + +<p> +The "Milford <cite>Ozone</cite>" is the leading organ of the day, so named +for the health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy. +</p> + +<p> +A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as +postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via +Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J. +H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was +established. +</p> + +<p> +The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a +large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of +300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross +the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a +view of the new town of <span class="sc">East Milford</span> laid out on an eighty +acre plot that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It +is a private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly +favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of +the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside +home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot +and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet +found in Nebraska. +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="V"> </a> +CHAPTER V. +</h2> + +<p class="ctrsmallchpt"> +NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL. +</p> + + +<p> +Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived +from the Indian <i>ne</i> (water) and <i>bras</i> (shallow), and means +shallow water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to +208 from north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that +lie between parallels 40° and 43° north latitude, and 18° and 27° west +longitude. +</p> + +<p> +The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the +original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only +herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854, +"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made +it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for +its motto "<i>Equality before the Law</i>." +</p> + +<p> +The governors of Nebraska territory were: +</p> + +<ul> +<li>Francis Burt, 1854.</li> +<li>T. B. Cuming, 1854-5.</li> +<li>Mark W. Izard, 1855-8.</li> +<li>W. A. Richardson, 1858.</li> +<li>J. S. Morton, 1858-9.</li> +<li>Samuel W. Black, 1859-61.</li> +<li>Alvin Saunders, 1861-6.</li> +<li>David Butler, 1866-7.</li> +</ul> + +<p> +Of the state— +</p> + +<ul> +<li>David Butler, 1867-71.</li> +<li>William H. James, 1871-3.</li> +<li>Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5.</li> +<li>Silas Garber, 1875-9.</li> +<li>Albinus Nance, 1879-83.</li> +<li>James W. Dawes, 1883.</li> +</ul> + +<p> +Allow me to quote from the <cite>Centennial Gazetteer of United +States</cite>: +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">Surface.</span>—Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends +along the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down +toward the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. +There are no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed +mountains. The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous +loam, which is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in +deeply eroded valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest +fertility, which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, +ash, and other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. +Late surveys establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom +lands is from 13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres. +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">The climate</span> of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of +other states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The +mean annual temperature varies from 47° in the northern sections to 57° +in the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part +of the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the +westerly winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress +the thermometer to 20° and sometimes 30° below zero; while in the +summer a temperature of 100° and over is not unusual. In the southern +tier of counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76¼°, and of +winter, 30½°. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 +inches) falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall +steadily decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the +western counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the +state. +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">Population.</span>—Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and +in 1870, 122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, +including 18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population +numbered 30,748. +</p> + +<p> +"<span class="sc">Education.</span>—Nebraska has more organized schools, more school +houses, and those of a superior character; more money invested in +buildings, books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the +same age. The land endowed for the public schools embraces +one-eighteenth of the entire area of the state—2,623,080 acres." The +school lands are sold at not less than seven dollars per acre, which +will yield a fund of not less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from +six to ten per cent interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. +The principal is invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished +while the interest and income alone is used. +</p> + +<p> +The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly +supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable +and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in +Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the +Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength. +The Catholic church is fully represented. +</p> + +<p> +The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest +percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second. +Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania: +</p> + +<p> +Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write; +Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write. +Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891. +</p> + +<p> +Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United +States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of +the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at +the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its +salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the +air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low +temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong, +cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but +17°, and of the summer 70°. +</p> + +<p> +I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in +general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern +people. +</p> + +<p> +Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not +accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year—since +which time there has been rapid developments—will speak volumes for +the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union. +</p> + +<p> +The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an +increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828 +in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933 +to 452,542, nearly four-fold. +</p> + +<p> +The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its +capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a +population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square +mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a +population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would +have 17,480,000 people. +</p> + +<p> +The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874 +to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per +year. In 1883 there was raised in the state: +</p> + +<table summary="Grain product"> +<tr> +<td>Wheat</td> +<td class="right">27,481,300.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Corn</td> +<td class="right">101,276,000.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td>Oats</td> +<td class="right">21,630,000.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has +prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up +to Nov. 13, 1883: +</p> + +<table summary="Crop reports"> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Corn, yield per acre</td> +<td class="right">41 bushels.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">85 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Potatoes, Irish</td> +<td class="right">147 bushels.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">109 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Potatoes, sweet</td> +<td class="right">114 bushels.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">111 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Hay, average tame and wild</td> +<td class="right">2 tons per a.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td>Quality</td> +<td class="right">107 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Sorghum, yield per acre</td> +<td class="right">119 gallons.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Grapes, yield and quality</td> +<td class="right">88 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Apples, yield and quality</td> +<td class="right">97 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Pears, yield and quality</td> +<td class="right">52 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Condition of orchards</td> +<td class="right">100 per cent.</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td colspan="2">Spring wheat threshed at date</td> +<td class="right">82 per cent.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for +market, Dec. 1. +</p> + +<p> +In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a +total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised +annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and +250,000 sheep. +</p> + +<p> +The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring +the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000 +inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into +the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor +dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done +by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence. +</p> + +<p> +During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven +intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the +least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the +state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a +population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska. +</p> + +<p> +I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women. +</p> + +<p> +"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own +at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or +proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall +come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her +husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall +remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage, +and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for +his debts. +</p> + +<p> +"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt +contracted by the wife before marriage." +</p> + +<p> +The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail +transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two +years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was +about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations +were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft. +Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.; +Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers +left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month; +carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two +years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from +St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in +sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now +Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad. +</p> + +<p> +I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising +people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that +enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new +country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after +while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of +ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west +by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a +strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to +learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept +and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear +great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the +forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their +children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has +furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good +idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day, +and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general +hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska +could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children. +</p> + + +<p class="ctrtoppad"> +LINCOLN. +</p> + +<p> +In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at +Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of +State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and +locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present +<i>capital</i> site was chosen—then a wild waste of grasses, where a +few scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that +once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster +post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the +Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide" +between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and +broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public +buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom +Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state, +a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and +founded a paper town and called it Lancaster. +</p> + +<p> +The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was +as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the +state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all +the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the +commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the +summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer, +which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few +and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale +of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he +received his wages—$300—he remarked that he would not give his pay +for the whole town site. +</p> + +<p> +The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100 +houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67, +but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in +January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was +realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State +University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all +other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold. +</p> + +<p> +The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The +post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national +government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were +reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot +is a large brick building 183×53 and three stories high, with lunch +room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room, +and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices +on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily +carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway +accommodations. +</p> + +<p> +All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were +given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature, +which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was +organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman +Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69; +Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A +number have since been added. +</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">The State Journal Co.</span> On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day +following the announcement that Lancaster was <i>the place</i> for the +capital site there appeared in the <cite>Nebraska City Press</cite> a +prospectus for the publication of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be +called the <cite>Nebraska Commonwealth</cite>, C. H. Gere, Editor. But +not until the latter part of Nov. did it have an established office in +the new city. In the spring of '69 the <cite>Commonwealth</cite> was +changed to the Nebraska <cite>State Journal</cite>. As a daily it was +first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B. & M.R.R. ran its +first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage coaches that had +been the only means of transportation to the capital. In '82 the State +Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new building on the +corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and brick, four +stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The officers are C. +H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R. Clark, Sec., and H. +D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125 hands. Beside the +<cite>Journal</cite> are the <cite>Democrat</cite> and +<cite>News</cite>, daily; the <cite>Nebraska Farmer</cite>, +semi-monthly; the <cite>Capital</cite>, weekly; the <cite>Hesperian +Student</cite>, monthly, published by the students of the University, +and the <cite>Staats Anzeiger</cite>, a German paper, issued weekly. +</p> + +<p> +On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G +street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and +spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But +Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in +that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and +about Lincoln. +</p> + +<p> +Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of +convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who +had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act. +Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready +to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good +behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step +beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all +the departments—the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where +brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot +mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and +stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at +the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of +stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a +prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4×7 feet, and furnished +with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to +write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what +they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read +before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom +are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their +cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals +together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives +and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly +to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the +wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation. +Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each +other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not +even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow +neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until +seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two +or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a +privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general +hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at +nine <span class="smc">A.M.</span>, they are marched in close file to the chapel, +where Rev. Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and +New York, gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and +Him Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian +doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within +prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of +their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's +daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are +readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the +dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his +services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars, +the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron +door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs, +and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on +the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left. +They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to +see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and +there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked +into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I +have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to +me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will +always be watching to see what good men and women you make; great +philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good +ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice, +honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President +sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your +name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll +be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their +innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised +to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture +before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy—a God not only +to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are +here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin +with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched +drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be +men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God +will punish the <i>cause</i>, while man calls the effect to account. +For my part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest +drunkard from the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest +liquor dealer in the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he +deals out, and that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of +ruined souls, souls for which he will have to answer for before the +Great Judge who never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt +by a jury. +</p> + +<p> +Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt +we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday.</i> About two <span class="smc">P.M.</span> the sky was suddenly darkened +with angry looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they +grew more threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not +anxious to witness a cyclone, but if one <i>must</i> come, I wanted to +watch its coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the +clouds rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and +we drove out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck +of a brick building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy +fall of hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some +places. This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. +[ERRATA. Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" +read "Nebraska is <i>not</i> visited." Third line from bottom leave out +the word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as +some suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep +over some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind +that I was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather +than does Pennsylvania. +</p> + +<p> +The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very +oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Saturday</i> we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and +drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has +many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all." +</p> + +<p> +Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine +view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over +housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many +beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120 +feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks, +five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk +proper—built of stone, brick, or plank—and the remaining eleven feet +are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards. +</p> + +<p> +The streets running north and south are numbered from first to +twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W. +</p> + +<p> +Saturday evening—a beautiful moonlight night—just such a night as +makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has +been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the +mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know +if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be +aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because +I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a +neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over <i>after dark</i>. All saddled, +Fanny waits at the door, and I must go. +</p> + +<p> +Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back—I'll +telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am +told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have +only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for—but a +happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start. +</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> +<div class="poetry"> +<div class="stanza"> +<div>One by one her feet are lifted,</div> +<div class="i1">One by one she sets them down;</div> +<div>Step by step we leave the gatepost,</div> +<div class="i1">And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle,</div></div></div></div> + +<p> +when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you +cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My +thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey. +</p> + +<p> +Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly. +But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night, +and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak—<i>if I ever reached +the foot of the mountain</i>,—that I did not notice that Fanny had +crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post. +Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but +she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg +him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were +created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow, +cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot. +</p> + +<p> +Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie +Keefer. +</p> + +<p> +"What does it eat?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all." +</p> + +<p> +I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but +Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night. +</p> + +<p> +In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was +asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln. +Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed +strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in +among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and +cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship. +They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief, +requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist +church, to come and baptise their infants. +</p> + +<p> +I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind, +but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so +earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I +wore an expression of pity instead. +</p> + +<p> +The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and +seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of +their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son +of Africa arose and said: +</p> + +<p> +"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for +about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And +Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat +rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called +sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit +by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake +bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of +time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my +time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in +prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands, +and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a +continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the +prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard. +One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by +bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too +large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while +she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing, +if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only +hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing +in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it +was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word +long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way. +It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description, +and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing +short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was +very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with +the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table +and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride +and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men +stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put +down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could +not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down, +and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a +piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister +closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander +would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if +de Lord am willin, I'll be here too." +</p> + +<p> +A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with +an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening +found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes. +</p> + +<p> +Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to +speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text +am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua +commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great +wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by +blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book +of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de +Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat +moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine +it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll +give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de +smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and +not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky +mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I +heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful, +and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is +expended." +</p> + +<p> +And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while +we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be +drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true +representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four +long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such +utter ignorance. +</p> + +<p> +Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been +"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye. +</p> + + + +<h2> +<a name="VI"> </a> +CHAPTER VI. +</h2> + +<p class="smallhang"> +Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The +Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls. — The conclusion. +</p> + + +<p> +Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont. +Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last +Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of +what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the +storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At +Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a +couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed +to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and +Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first +person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before +she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come +to meet me, Mrs. Euber?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago." +</p> + +<p> +After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr. +Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the +previous week. +</p> + +<p> +"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received +your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a +great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you +didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up." +</p> + +<p> +Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him, +promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found +he had not eaten them all—which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called +on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I +learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook +my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey +home, and find your dear mother well!" +</p> + +<p> +"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing +better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch +acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we +meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are +stored away for future reference, in quiet hours. +</p> + +<p> +Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the +thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my +indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over +level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed +over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed +their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said +good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont. +</p> + +<p> +Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at +Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri +river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car +where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and +watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all +those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have +returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of +Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged +gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross +the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be +careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the +shore." +</p> + +<p> +"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the +boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall +into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed +with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom—but +we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy +shores of Iowa. +</p> + +<p> +Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going—of my visit at +Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family—dear old friends of my +grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield, +Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow +me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there. +</p> + +<p> +July 30, 5:30 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> "Will you tell me, please, when we cross +the Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we +crossed the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the +window and shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the +hills and valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I +thought there was an air of home in the breezes. +</p> + +<p> +The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at +Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the +depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months +ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I +gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright +expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves +as bright as these I gather? +</p> + +<p> +Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear +old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return +again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall +the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and +esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent +people it holds within its arms. +</p> + +<p> +As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in +a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I +have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months' +stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot +have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the +little groggeries and make those who <i>will</i> have it, pay the +highest price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a +homestead. +</p> + +<p> +"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too +dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and +wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do +they? +</p> + +<p> +"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B. +over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants +of the car. +</p> + +<p> +"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other. +</p> + +<p> +"At the —— (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve +a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any +good." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down +to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where +everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose +those young dandies are "Oil Princes"—"Coal Oil Johnnies," you +know—and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for +their fun. +</p> + +<p> +When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels +as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew +my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take +the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in +waiting and only one carriage. +</p> + +<p> +"Go to the ——, lady?" +</p> + +<p> +"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the +ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge, +past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open +saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an +eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm +and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I +guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an +elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my +imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that +He had brought me safely so near home. +</p> + +<p> +"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning. +</p> + +<p> +"Seventy-five cents." +</p> + +<p> +I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please +take fifty?" +</p> + +<p> +"Why?" +</p> + +<p> +"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel." +</p> + +<p> +"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents +on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not +help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several +little extras I had met with had taken about all. +</p> + +<p> +I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him +at the breakfast table. +</p> + +<p> +August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of +rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size, +but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to +you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of +snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that +glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig +and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I +wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and +how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere +else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the +great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the +many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark." +They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond +description. +</p> + +<p> +Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for +DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then +out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of +trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard +Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is +dumped down in wild confusion here—mountains and valleys, hills and +hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones, +trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed +with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters +and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations, +but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of +derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills—but now we are 17 +miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is +the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment +to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302 +feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of +silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever +again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I +feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the +honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle," +never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and +exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!" +</p> + +<p> +It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience +the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks +at either side, and the cars run very slow. +</p> + +<p> +One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen +excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great +valley—its noble trees untouched—and allow it to forever remain as +one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures. +</p> + +<p> +Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful +mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500 +feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond +description, so are the mountains. +</p> + +<p> +J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the +plains and stood upon the mountain peaks." +</p> + +<p> +To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but +enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the +plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His +children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged +mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the +most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union. +</p> + +<p> +Arrived at DuBois 5 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> This road has only been in use since +in June, and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to +see the trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in +hand, and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood +Francis watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but +when he recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on +before to tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I +reached the "wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister +Maggie, and were not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! +and the new moon looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were +glad, happy days, but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a +few days. Norval to go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his +daughter home. +</p> + +<p> +"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your +wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting: +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking +than when she went away," Maggie said. +</p> + +<p> +August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home, +through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land, +the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and +we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat +from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I +thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a +mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world. +</p> + +<p> +While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a +shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and +something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help +comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little +western town. +</p> + +<p> +Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we +go, until we cross Little Mahoning—bless its bright waters!—and once +more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town—the snuggest, dearest +little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I +wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles +farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays +aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau," +and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the +gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its +rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip +through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase +Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and +her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the +meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me. +</p> + +<p> +"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't +leave you soon again!" +</p> + +<p> +Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the +house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we +frightened Emma and Harry into a cry. +</p> + +<p> +I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she +strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the +friends. +</p> + +<p> +Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear +mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries, +and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how +good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at +my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep. +</p> + +<p> +Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see +and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel" +was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit +Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May, +shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed—but +where is Will? +</p> + +<p> +"Out at the oats field?" +</p> + +<p> +"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see +him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back +field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go +through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down +goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!" +</p> + +<p> +As we trudge down the hill, I said: +</p> + +<p> +"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your +farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a +scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state." +</p> + +<p> +"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will +endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they +could go along I would like to try life in the West." +</p> + +<p> +Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book +out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when +mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed +look: +</p> + +<p> +"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some +huckleberries for supper." +</p> + +<p> +Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put +aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the +huckleberries are gathered. +</p> + +<p> +Seated again— +</p> + +<p> +"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while +Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while +I make a corn cutter." +</p> + +<p> +Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father? +</p> + +<p> +There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand +that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia. +</p> + +<p> +"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly +turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then, +"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn +cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it +be a time of peace." +</p> + +<p> +I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the +latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt +Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly +turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my +sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on +the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover +puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr +to kisses—I mean baby kisses? +</p> + +<p> +Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came +the apples—golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown. +And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I +finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The +cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and +although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the +thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have to do is to take up a +cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the +slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all +over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and +mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone +Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though +I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks. +Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the +"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day +lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of +faith and trust. +</p> + +<p> +So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for +the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left +Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along +this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary +winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet +piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan +Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave +Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I +will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We +approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge, +about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the +whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The +river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet +deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225 +feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch +only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing +quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the +bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south +we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the +train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again. +Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and +see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more +favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly +by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I +am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of +the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet +of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our +view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can +do justice to Niagara Falls. +</p> + +<p> +I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or +leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil +is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy. +</p> + +<p> +A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New +York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected +farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit +river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only +see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to +the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not +get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday +morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five +days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some +of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the +people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good +old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of +the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of +vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering +up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought, +Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and +earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln +Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright +day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the +panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything +about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to +corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look +for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that +I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among +the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked +upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the +artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday +morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the +Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over +the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go +over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I +left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road +that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land +in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the +Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is +night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view. +Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it +is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the +Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln, +arriving there at 12 <span class="smc">M.</span> March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's +again just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and +my welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home +with them during my stay in Lincoln. +</p> + +<p> +My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr. +Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms +satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year +from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book +began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of +it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of +hard labor. +</p> + +<p> +How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work, +kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of +discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying: +</p> + +<p> +"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the +labor it involves." +</p> + +<p> +"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work +cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden +in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all +through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put +it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at +the last." +</p> + +<p> +"Did He forsake me," do you ask? +</p> + +<p> +"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in +Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their +name down without hesitation. +</p> + +<p> +"What security do you want of me?" I asked. +</p> + +<p> +"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book." +</p> + +<p> +"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many +prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands +would be reached out to me." +</p> + +<p> +"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so +keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged." +</p> + +<p> +I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it +to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his +confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness +such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Friday, May 9th.</i> I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my +dear aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father +spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome +me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was +afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the +water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said: +"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just +now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me +this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of +sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84 +with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue. +</p> + +<p> +"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up +to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror +of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth. +</p> + +<p> +The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the +sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the +leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other +May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my +May-day in the old familiar places. +</p> + +<p> +Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford, +and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction, +friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I +thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish." +</p> + +<p> +And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in <i>my</i> "Diary +of a Minister's Wife," I bid you <span class="sc">Good-Bye</span>. +</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<div class="image"><img width="600" height="417" src="images/map.jpg" alt="map"> +<p class="caption"> +FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R. +AND CONNECTIONS,<br>TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<br> +<div class="tn"> +<p class="ctr"> +Transcriber's Note: +</p> + +<p> +Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note. +</p> + +<p> +Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have been retained as +printed. +</p> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. 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Sims Fulton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: To and Through Nebraska + +Author: Frances I. Sims Fulton + +Release Date: January 17, 2014 [EBook #44688] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected +without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have +been retained as printed. Words printed in italics are noted with +underscores: _italics_. + + + + +TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA. + + +BY + +A Pennsylvania Girl. + +THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT TRUTH +IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS, +WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG +JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO + +_The Author_, + +FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON. + + +LINCOLN, NEB. +JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS, +1884. + + + + +A WORD TO THE READER. + + +If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual +Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and +triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and +valleys, read Chapter I. + +Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, Chapter II. + +Of the great Platte valley, Chapter III. + +Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, Chapter IV. + +Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and +liquor laws, and Capital, Chapter V. + +If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the +world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, Chapter VI. + + +And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand _just +why_ this little book--if such it may be called, came to be written. +We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a +Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it +more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown +in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned +lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give +everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch +upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a +stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the +state from Dakota to Kansas--306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the +U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the +state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip +and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you +read ONLY TRUTH. + +My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement; +and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My +parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing +the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and +rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882, +and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was +anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my +youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself--claimants +must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I +promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and +intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one +years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the +pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus +far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch, +sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not +deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet +I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many +times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him +in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry, +would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered +with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was +ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his +was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the +power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well +arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far +north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go +there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they +wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they +would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably +detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple +of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could +depend for care it was decided that I should go. + +When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a +"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as +a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like +fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I +never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines +were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and +features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows: + +A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The +squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good, +sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true, +who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from +death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians. + +The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from +his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the +old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a +better life in a new home." + +Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or +locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack +mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I +had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to +my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had +written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story +would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack +in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book. + +Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross? +and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done? + +"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book +in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes +lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned +from books, and then the book will be--only a little pamphlet after all. + + + + +THROUGH NEBRASKA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford, +Pa., in Northern Nebraska--A Description of the Country in which +they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha +Valleys--Their First Summer's Work and Harvest. + + +True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to +begin this with words of love of our own native land,--the state of all +that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest +to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one +vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams +abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a +peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to +become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union. + +Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain +ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of +golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil +that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told--affording her children +the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in +until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go +out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new +homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers +lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony +for all mankind." + +Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a +pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by +Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and +west branches of the Tunagwant--or Big Cove--Creek, and hid away from +the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in +1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the +valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was +transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and +selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth, +until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and, +forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that +has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in +all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class +money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told +from a member of the Standard Oil Company. + +Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass +quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes, +with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free, +social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be +suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and +operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live +for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time +and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of +living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to +carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune +sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only +for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the +valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work +of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are +yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show +innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks +rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a +feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged +hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly +burning, which livens the darkest night. + +Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and +like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning. +Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and +spent their money even more lavishingly than it came--so often counting +on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing +and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil, +when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from +territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to +reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then +new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured +many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the +deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new +fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000 +inhabitants. + +Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And +to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great +excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not +only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with +the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing +their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil. + +Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their _all_; +dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would +sell and realize a fortune in a few hours. + +Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the +wealth the day would bring. + +What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day +advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the +"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top. +So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and +happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny, +and often more than their own were swept. + +Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they +had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces +there, but faces that were _green_ with despair. This was only one +day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is +"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But +when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it. + +Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at +last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the +country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The +Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of +Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A +colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received +so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in +attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week +after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they +numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the +year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws. +Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed +must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee; +but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of +which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray +expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and +lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public +buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots--a business and +residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of +remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within +a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of +spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage. +Also the keeping of gambling houses." + +On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered +seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location. + +The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear +their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in +northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general +wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of +Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed, +and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian +reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the +choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where +nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of +many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after +many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was +arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and +Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April +appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists. + +We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains +of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when +anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high +for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager +pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and +landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where? + +We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only +those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold +kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize +what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty, +and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would +bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of +the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can +know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some +of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county, +chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to +Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making +and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than +when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more +substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or +monopoly. + +The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done, +homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many +sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday +morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but +it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the +going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those +left behind. + +And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the +exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and +joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were +companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye" +hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving +those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father +and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left +behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by +long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long +letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home. + +One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the +hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they +as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying +all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all +just to keep back the sobs and tears. + +Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated +many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must +go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load +of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping +of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we +were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle +westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we +received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left +behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure +snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is +heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears +until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity, +even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it +seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking +back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled +with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the +cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of +hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among +the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of. + +But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and +busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging +everything for comfort sake. + +This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends, +which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one +bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil +and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home? + +Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a +number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow +them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all +the good things a lunch basket can be stored with. + +When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua, +now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom +people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most +popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles +wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville, +we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to +speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would +call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose +their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we +rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the +childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball +so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the +last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would +slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of +Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points, +we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all +sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony +babe. + +Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad +farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and +jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed +to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the +children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the +racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing +Cleveland--leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city +and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight +hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn +with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears, +such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind +lines I then had written: + + Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers, + Your loveliness we'll strew + From Washington to Cleveland's soil, + The funeral cortege through. + In that loved land that gave him birth + We lay him down to rest, + 'Tis but his mangled form alone, + His soul is with the blest. + Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist + With many a falling tear, + A mist is over all this land + For him we loved most dear. + + "Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing; + In mournful strains and slow, + While in the tomb we gently lay, + Our martyred Garfield low. + +Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but +rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take +up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled +down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may +be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who +never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we +leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting +hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr. +Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee +pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's +generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup, +until he is now rinsing the grounds. + +Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain +would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word +we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than +all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest +comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand +almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains +and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since +childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first +loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind. +'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a +better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the +same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of +the world. + +When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were +surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white +sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill +to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant +to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large +and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were +quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of +the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area, +24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88 +miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled +in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we +bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on, +with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only +to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago. + +The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a +decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around +by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing +his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but +little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house, +which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The +Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats, +being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It +made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were +anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of +humanity. + +I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not +sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R., +and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty +flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands +and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of +Illinois--rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or +stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing +everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board, +barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing +green. + +The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far +apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors. + +Crossed the Mississippi river about four P.M., and when mid-way over +was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and about a mile +in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off the old grass, +which was a novel sight to us. + +Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark +just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see. + +Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more +like a delegation from "Blackville"--from the soot and cinder-dirt--than +a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a +camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three +o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by +moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into +the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East +miss the rough, rugged hills of home! + +The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,--as one remarked, "not from +behind a hill, but right out of the ground"--ushering in another +beautiful day. + +At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to +see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer +boats--three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was +leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull +lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and +have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we +never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore +in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but +"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand. +Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not +use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of +a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point, +the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned. +When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had +a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east +to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level +lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for +the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet +we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within. +Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no +other home. + +To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who +would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it +certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us +who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not +expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more +devoted to the old home than before. + +We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they +had not helped to bear us on their bosom to--we did not know what. How +little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no +rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters." +Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the +waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the +world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out +on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on +just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores +that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the +voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and +thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be +more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast +adrift upon the sea of _our_ life; and though they may be tempest +tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost. + +When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and +switched on to Nebraska's _terra firma_. + +Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place, +but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered +westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger +agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he +fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he +represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of +Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had +just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for +"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many +were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we +flattered ourselves that we _did_ well sustain the old family +honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded +Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in +which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us. +Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you +all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm +and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a +day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at +a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather +half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was +sung out, and we were on with the rest--to go calling and visit with +our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the +monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of +the cars. + +One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string; +mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt +I was going only to soon leave them--they to scatter over the plains, +and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a +mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received +a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down +the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we +had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as +they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play. + +Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we +reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from +the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He +received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed +in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days' +journey. + +Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the +claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly +had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with +him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again. + +I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already +be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead +grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire, +and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground--it has the same +rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west +we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and +sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us +when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and +what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of +fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses +far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses. + +We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw +this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who +had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the +prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his +luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped +at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be +cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of +"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but +were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the +car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I +hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west? +I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our +tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with +the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were +not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of +such an act. + +About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station, +Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors +locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our +first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our +coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a +good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and +could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a +comfortable resting place for the night. + +We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air +of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like +birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their +nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists +expected to find their nests of homes. + +But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark +that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had +to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the +songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a +mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader, +the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took +right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after +the smoke had cleared away, looked--and--well--we missed paper and +pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown +that followed. + +A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of +Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind +of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost +among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and +stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to +breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to +note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote +down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will +sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until +breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something--I didn't +know what, but full of curiosity went to see. + +A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that +arrived last night?" + +"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is." + +"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time." + +"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky." + +It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming +implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went +to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as +ox-plows were concerned. + +What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey, +and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast +before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made +an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if +the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on +to--reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole +truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of +the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey +better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do +you think of a climate like that? + +But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales, +and in reality we had only eaten--I mean we had only gained one and a +half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper +were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity. + +When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there +trying to sleep. + +"Home-sick?" we asked. + +"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night." + +No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home. + +First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the +depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location. + +The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad +through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to +secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being +claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the +morrow. + +The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be +seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the +evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above +his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with +the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening. + +_Saturday morning._ Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the men +started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and +ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded +with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who +were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away. + +But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was +the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that +western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers +of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town. +But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and +wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival. +Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to +anxious ones in the East. + +In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie, +about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the +river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely +turned already and didn't know the town I had just left. + +The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and +is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water +is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook +and line, spears and seine are used instead. + +Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked, +yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there +is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the +streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops, +and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,--cross +I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know +what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear +what Prof. Aughey says: + +"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state. +It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley +widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and +often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river +approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into +the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its +course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall, +and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable +manufacturing region." + +We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we +made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not +have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the +water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while +the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some +places its bed. + +Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it +quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high; +plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white; +roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of +the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had +a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and +walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out. + +The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a +frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the +shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the +bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened +with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it +down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves +the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at +first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many +inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water +from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is +easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water. + +The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight. +But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you, +forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills +fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly +sod, dot the surrounding country. + +_Monday, 30th._ Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little sunshine. +For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought and found a +very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John Skirving, of +whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought his family +from Jefferson City, Iowa. + +_Tuesday._ A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes through +everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters in camp +near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with nothing +but their tent for shelter. + +_Wednesday._ About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have +snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine +rain. + +Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at +home. + +_Thursday._ And still it rains and blows! + +_Friday._ A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I got out +of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther west, +and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to me I +scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down and +quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed in +the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I +hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing +had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise +than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to +make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that +I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I +had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half +expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared +away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so +dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that +the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon +dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty +dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day. + +_Saturday._ Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The majority +in good heart and looking well despite the weather and exposure they +have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few are +discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere. + +They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still +farther northwest--some going as far west as Holt creek, and so +scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a +disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the +same church and school would serve them all. + +Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily, +through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the +colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been +claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located +more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more +deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was +purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be +a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top, +which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the +wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and +hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again, +and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers. + +Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles +in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and +then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office +and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there +was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend +the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim, +hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see +a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his. + +Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it. + +_Sunday, 6 May._ Bright and warm. Would not have known there had +been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely +dried, and walking pleasant. + +A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon, +and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the +Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it +quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even +here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our +attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going, +and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on +this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly. + +The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness: +"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn +valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their +presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be +sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with +thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him +we can look for care and protection at all times. + +In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on +temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people, +as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in +"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from +"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the +same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we +had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare +to think how far we were from its shelter. + +But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his +love is just the same the wide world over. + +_Monday._ Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the +location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but +themselves to care for, have started. + +_Tuesday._ Rains. Folks disappointed. + +_Wednesday._ Rains and blows. Discouraging. + +_Thursday._ Blows and rains. _Very_ discouraging. + +The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season. +Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in +some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard +frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the +colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in +comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know +where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build +their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their +families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I +cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I +am greatly in sympathy with them. + +With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I +feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes." +Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the +land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I +am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds +with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson +county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me +some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I +have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every +kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home; +in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give +every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on +my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own +care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I +trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and +protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while +I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew +before--though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my +appetite, as well as the climate--yet every one experiences an increase +of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called +"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft +beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his +complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the +eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and +wherever it found him. + +_Friday._ Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off. + +It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a +prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at +night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The +prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields +of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow +the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen +some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter +upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so +long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to +drive their cattle out to the "divides,"--hills between rivers--to +pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on +them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch +a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her +pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to +scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have +also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with +the good. + +During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants +keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara +country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great +hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every +worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top. +Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon, +which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole +in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with +them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are +generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the +wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking, +overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often +patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and +children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the +rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that +look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show +they have had a good living where they came from. + +Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good +education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright +little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from +Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving +Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the +country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon, +spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her +husband attended to several valuable Texas horses. + +Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three +weeks." + +"How can you travel through such weather?" + +"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the +rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down." + +"Never get sick?" + +"No." + +"Not even a cold?" + +"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started." + +"How many miles can you go in a day?" + +"We average about twenty." + +The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look +healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of +people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go +whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure +we owe the opening up of the western country. + +_Saturday morning._ Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared off +nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All +getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr. +Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of +oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the +majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so, +much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and +left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double +bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last +week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by +Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years. + +Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S. +gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to +bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off +the currants. + +Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska +behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I +think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along. +Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the +wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool. + +Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and +as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under +the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them +with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well +trained by the time we reach the end of our journey. + +"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far +we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We +are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows +running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road +running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart, +but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I +see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and +make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to +pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt. +The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another. + +Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile +stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation, +not even Stuart to be seen from this point. + +Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look +out and perhaps I will find one. + +Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be +a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it. +Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right +are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles +away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves. + +The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the--oxen of +about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy +walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles, +wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had +tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new +homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying +supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo +stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which +gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its +protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery +and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time! + +Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real +little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called, +but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear +water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland +in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks _are_ sweeter for singing +to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their foam," +and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to the many +that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on the +hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had reigned +within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the walls +falling. + +Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as +the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for +your sake, reader. + +Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that +stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite +new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother +their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at +least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie +is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children! + +Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of +the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back +memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly +written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims." +All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put +forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an +undertaking for me. + +"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!" + +"Is what?" + +"Why, that stick for a whip-handle." + +I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had +seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it. + +The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night +at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to +the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of +way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am +not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with +travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady, +though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we +are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the +few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen +all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no +bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and +will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just +shut my eyes until we are on the other side. + +There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to +secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not +disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite +crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the +setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of +the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast +this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the +Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing +most interesting. + +Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my +barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name +it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48 deg., +think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair +ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out. + +One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the +banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and +bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen, +almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses +the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock +that juts out of the hill--first stone or rock seen since we entered +the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man +coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the +hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help +you gentlemen, but that off-horse is _terribly weak_. The other horse +is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak that +off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. While +we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough to +learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he was +lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly who +have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men push, +but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. The men +debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and carry them +up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my +suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk +with, "That's it--only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and +a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men, +while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to +go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble. + +When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk, +as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill, +across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with +a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a +narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond +willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie +schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very +good harbor for these ships of the west. + +"What kind of a shanty is this?" + +"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't +think worth while to light up in the evening." + +On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I +can scarcely take another step. + +"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open +door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered +about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus." + +"No, just across the river where you see that light." + +Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel +about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and _so glad_ to get to _somewhere_. + +Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly +after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his +hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here +before dark. + +Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr. +Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa. + +"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband. + +"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs. +M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon. +Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But +Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take +them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to +all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good +supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get +laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new +apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod +roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on +the floor, while the family occupies the old part. + +About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of +the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently +pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general +uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of +the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping +into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said, +"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer +shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log +house, 14x16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen, +dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture, +without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the +family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and +son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this +old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the +comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and +dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened. +The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men +have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the +house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the +ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing +over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking +badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in. +Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection. + +Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone +Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion, +but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm, +so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled. + +The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing +machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with +carpet and rubber coats. + +How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and +meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river--hope it is meat cast +adrift for some hungry traveler--and some one has used my loaf for a +cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So +I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free +from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted +experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way. +Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while +the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and +prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and +went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons. + +The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the +_hotel_ where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the shelter +we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their wagons, +and wonder where the rest of our party are. + +The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters +makes us even more homesick. + +"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every +thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I +_do wish_ it would stop!" "When _will_ it clear off?" "Does it _always_ +rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of times, only to +cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving sixteen souls +crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. Just how was +a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. Reader, I wish +you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me by the stove, I +then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you ever read Mark +Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, there are a few +_innocents abroad_, just now, _roughing it_ to their hearts' content. + +The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down +crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some +blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick, +sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores. +Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker--there, I knew she would rock on Mr. +Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double +up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a +better chance. + +If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might +perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be +dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and +then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do +pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself +fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a +chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on +two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie, +you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers. + +Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before +the stove, and list--he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me. + +Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a +pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots +and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that +than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden +pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if +he doesn't stop nodding so far back. + +Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more +words of Kathrina. + +Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the +bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and +crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been +driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog, +give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then; +casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep, +because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather +scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of +these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these +sleepers must be kept warm. + +Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet +and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does +weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small +as the unoccupied space, that's all. + +Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my +eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the +oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do? +To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the +floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get +up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I +leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that +"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just +as they can, mostly. So + + All cuddled up together, + In a little weenty heap, + I double up my pillow + And laugh myself to sleep. + I know you will not blame me + If I dream of home so bright-- + I'll see you in the morning + So now a kind "good night". + +As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt +further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little +bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is +seeking rest for to-night. + +"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for +breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep +longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't +always slept on a table? + +I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning, +could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were +sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are +surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in +almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension +table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the +dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this +chapter. + +Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever +regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge," +and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights' +lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought +they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor, +to sleep. + +_Monday morning._ Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start +about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies +ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push +them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight. + +But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in +the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in +the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on +over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to +snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head +well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to +start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the +trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all +sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking +and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and +pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try +hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this +bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I +pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only +variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a +tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for +several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost +trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both +of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that +neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two +squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces +looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their +situation. + +The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground +soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near +where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared +their lands, the country took on a better appearance. + +The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that +look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and +very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if +possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept +up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How +much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were +ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a +plow, and asked no more questions. + +"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross +with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a +signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open +arms." + +And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married +brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner. +After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to +the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara +and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four P.M. + +Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home +until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us +feel quite at home. + +Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well +supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent" +to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely: + + "The sweetest songs are never sung; + The fairest pictures never hung; + The fondest hopes are never told-- + They are the heart's most cherished gold." + +They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer, +when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois +City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L. +added her beautiful children's stories. + +He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them, +and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization. +How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to +read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists? + +_Tuesday, 15th of May_, dawned without a cloud, and how bright +everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor +backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change +from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my +May day, but the story is a long one--too long for the pages of my +little book. + +And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to +gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the +hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of +the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans, +and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs +were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were +of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited +the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful +place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite +homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every +color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the +Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success, +after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house +where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which, +Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte, +twelve miles west. + +Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close +to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past +the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss +Minn to join our maying party. + +The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's +growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with +blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as +they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered +trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the +valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most +of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands +alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20 +acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is +covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of +a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they +are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others +that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the +touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had +been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a +shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but +those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists; +tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country +were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and +wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden +treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a +moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of +dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I +felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day, +and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars," +for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will +allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different. + +We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know +where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite +distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war +whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the +north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained +from this elevated point was grand. + +A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the +north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the +water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs +extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong +to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but +without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or +rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance +is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim +takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a +plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me +the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's +and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the +sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone, +to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel +lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our +many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in +places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of +spring? + +But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton, +your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western +girls would think of such a thing!" + +"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It +was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th +of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens, +gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or +have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the +difference in the years to me. + +No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and +the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of +an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring +in bloom, and I could not but gather of all--even the tiniest. + +The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and +remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the +previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not +so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over +the serious illness of a loved sister. + +I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers +with tear-dimmed eyes--sister May was dead, and everywhere it was +desolate. + +'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we +gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen. + +In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy +mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and +miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that +almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright. + +Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and +shared them with May, by laying them on her grave. + +To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I +celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost +untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the +favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks +where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will +gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so +lonely thinking of their daughter so far away. + +The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle--sister +Maggie's oldest child--who came to me for a May-flower in '76. + +But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was +growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to +gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love. + +Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears +that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown, +for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to +me. + +"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live _good_ lives and yet not make the +_most_ of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good and +useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good and +useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of the +hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and +prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now +budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner." + +After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will +be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone +Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious +mementos of our May-day in Nebraska. + +Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"--the +term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance, +and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a +neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately +come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the +life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I +tell these little things that those who do not already know, may +understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere. + +Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie +ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or _minnie_ in +the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor +woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a +word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and +then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright, +pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a +new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright +and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a +drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a +half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least, +the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky +complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black +braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears. +Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could +not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her +face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus +she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their _tepee_. +The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two +apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove, +table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed +covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen +except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The +furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and +neatness I had not expected. + +The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to +smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then +drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf +tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought, +it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege +lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband +laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her. +She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the +lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left +feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who +would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor; +labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw +is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by +those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by +the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians +are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing +every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice, +coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week. + +Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have +no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as +Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why +not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the +white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or +die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to +adopt! + +We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no +one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better. + +When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in +the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You +don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led +the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built, +so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting +to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag +carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by +being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had +the partition been finished. + +The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were +cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and +looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected +without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with +my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare +your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I +long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for +society." + +Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right +out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience. + +I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and +experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by +friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs. +W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known +the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes +overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost. +Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock +raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of +their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and +during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod, +but of lumber. + +"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling +here will help it so much, and now we will stay." + +Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing +she had a taste for the beautiful. + +After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made +our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the +buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked +like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a +prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground +homes. + +Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his +house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to +frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn +toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more. + +Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six +of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had +joined them. + +The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we +finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun, +suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and +where? + +Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to +many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska. + +The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept +hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms, +and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want +the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross +over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs +of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the +colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well +filled with weather stayed emigrants. + +Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not +come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday +night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When +daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along +the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river +and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the +journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies +dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned +his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left +Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with +sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found +for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C. + +Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned +that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter +prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what +you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not +expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country +just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find +the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would +not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged +when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt +for your motto, "What _others_ have done _I_ can do." Allow me to give +you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any of the +colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the disadvantages +of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April of '79 I came +to this country to look up a home where I could have good cattle range. +When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs crosswise to +look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further west, but +returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help of a young +man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was under roof. +While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made garden. We +then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and came back +in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two months' supply +of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than Keya Paha, +thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, was about +the nearest house. + +"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon +had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his +reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail, +that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to +come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose +reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number +together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the +government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat, +and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is +worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is +strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them +right on the war-path. + +"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made +Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from +Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time +it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a +distance of about sixty miles. + +"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school +house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister +(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha." + +Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of +firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s +father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower +part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many +a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of +satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give +them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on +reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters +have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without +meeting a soul on the way. + +"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The +Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid +of them." + +It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to +"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door. + +Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about +seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr +oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have +over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell. + +Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and +brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us +took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent; +went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of +an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From +the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet +strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful +frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's +dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his +blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower +limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down. + +When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their +meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant +plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind +of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with +needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding +their finger ends than was Mr. Clark. + +"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked. + +"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from +drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about +all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away, +I can tell you." + +We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson +from their experience--never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't +hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it +takes good strong material to stand the wind. + +In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the +prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is +indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving +grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave +great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new +growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was +not burnt. + +Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same +time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive +nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say, +burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass +roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy +soil. + +These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees. +Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often +planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato +patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To +prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a +supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of +course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has +passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a +cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you. + +_Monday, 21st._ Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn +planting. + + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED. + +As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to +be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be +interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to, +so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned +and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that +closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their +broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on +which cattle are grazing--that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo" +(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as +the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only +to now and then take a stroll over it. + +The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half +a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and +then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called +table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing +line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth, +where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here, +thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet +deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says +"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the +water is clear and pleasant to the taste. + +The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on +the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and +from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich. +The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there +are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak, +elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in +the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums, +choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one +has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size +and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead +of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom +so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in +great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines +that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes" +of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry, +which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little +white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a +foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not +choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they +are pleasant to the taste and refreshing. + +Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black +currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the +snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are +starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said +to be equally as good as the poled hops of home. + +"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs. +K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the +buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum, +and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in +clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from +the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in +color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters, +and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It +belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as +ordinary beans and eaten--if at starvation point. Of the other flowers +gathered mention was made on my May-day. + +Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is +easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet +not very hard. + +About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other +half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen +inches to two feet deep. + +I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by +those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are. +"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing +country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted +with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far +from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad +nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be +long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free +from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in +Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow +tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want; +no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we +will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us +to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little +alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"--to +scatter over--and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere. + +Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden +and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all +they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the +building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber +culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in +cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly. + +There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in +stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see +it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a +general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers +will tell the story of its worth. + +I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I +hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of +an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so +interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read. + +But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding +away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down +to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was +anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy +poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof +for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have +during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer +nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while +of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a +dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and +surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real +to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man +who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their +herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as +he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a +half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma. +I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?" + +"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was +before I came west." + +The room was about 10x12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and +part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made +when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they +lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on. + +To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude--so far +removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the +stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only +retreats for the night. + +We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the +Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and +wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course, +or else I am turned all wrong. + +_Tuesday._ Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to +regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together, +going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with +a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh! +I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she +talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble +monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no +doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could +do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under. + +Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and +gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I +felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as +much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible. + +We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to +Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K. +and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been +forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And +Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted +on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and +improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a +kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them +all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and +soon the little group of friends were left behind. + +I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to +part from them?--Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people +all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with +them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the +spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that +the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our +good plans could not be carried out. + +It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with +eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even +had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a +nice settlement of people. + +The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance +to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all +together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just +where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are +only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many +acres. + +One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no +good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the +unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose +wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for +the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over +the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The +tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses +to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken. + +We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and +the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may +learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow +and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up +between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod +with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you +plant the next hill--I mean hole--of corn. + +One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and +not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania +roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of +them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at +last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry +home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the +prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles +away up here! + +Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized +sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as +though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out +or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and +now the sea has all gone to grass. + +Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that +I may have a better view. + +"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been +made?" + +"Why, by the action of the wind and water." + +"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense +scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape, +size, and depth." + +Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren +of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well +filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar. + +Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on +the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me +for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and +when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to +some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way, +I will take another ride behind oxen. + +Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for +stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the +maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those +who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did +not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle +were stolen without personal regard for the owner. + +But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some +time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still +committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who +feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose +their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter +from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses +stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their +favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's +bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid +me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more +of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about? + +But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of +other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and +quite inviting after our long ride. + +After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or +_Running Water_. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by, +as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it +empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it +enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide; +but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps +in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses +its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the +Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a +pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a +couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my +satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset +picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for +memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow +stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered +with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years +ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river +bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed +heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills, +and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their +toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by +this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack +"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying: + +"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get +near it." + +It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to +settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the +colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the +land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame +of the colony will people this country by many times the number of +actual settlers it itself will bring. + +Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I +attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet +hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara, +and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on +toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful +valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide, +but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an +interesting picture. + +There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side +of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land +on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are +persuaded to test it. + +The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north +side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more +than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have +sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call +the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also +the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink +flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny +flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only +the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening, +and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was +not; but the leaves convinced me. + +I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the +flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem +to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the +sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be +found about Stuart when I left. + +We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and--"Oh, horror! Mr. +Newell, look out for the red-skins!" + +"Where, Miss Fulton, where?" + +"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire +to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some +sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian +blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare +me scalp." + +Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for +the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in +suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first +chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake +you up. + +But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a +prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted +a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying +to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a +mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the +bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as +though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the +"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies +traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and +all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of +worldly goods along. + +They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation +is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up +government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good +homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the +land for the claiming of it. + +The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I +have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am +not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty +welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner." + + +THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST. + +It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier, +and not tell more of them. + +I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one +whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and +energy, I quote: + + "BREWER, P.O. BROWN CO., NEB., + + "December 23, '83. + + "Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better + satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done + better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled) + per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger + vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40, + wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first + year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it + costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and + windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at + the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use, + a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the + chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight + feet. + + "There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They + charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs, + sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two + and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make + the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own + hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam." + + "The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in + the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September, + and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the + colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for + my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will." + +From another: + + "We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have + some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are + going to have a reunion 16 February." + + "BREWER, Jan., 8. + + "You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been + getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th + December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since + Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken + around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of + years to have schools and plenty of neighbors." + +Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no +sickness reported from climating. + +I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is +a good country for the few of us that came." + +I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the +little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that +have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the +horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have +been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and +lodging a greater number in jail. + +It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to +rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace +and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all +things good! + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri +Valley.--A visit to Ft. Niobrara. + + +I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. & +P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from +Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about. +Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr. +Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by +sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the +Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not +give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of +the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that +neighborhood making it their head-quarters. + +I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for +ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday +evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me +for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we +availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by +daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who +busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck +and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain +with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and +that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no +nothing but prairie. + +There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be +going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we +all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent +braces himself against the stove, and I--well I just shake and laugh. +It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the +agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face +and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that +his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last +Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara +and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't +know when to be thankful, do they? + +Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and +not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that +of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is +prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems +quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade +again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her +head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't +shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the +country. + +Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer. + +The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills +or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine, +where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them +of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to +meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a +walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees +that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen +from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made +haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it +was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see +more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular +passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening +was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested +upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the +company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home +where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I +am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has +repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say: + +"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody." + +The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll" +folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is +silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful +hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from +home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think. + +To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to +Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and +the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my +coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the +depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately. + +But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and +protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I +trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said: + +"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has +always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know +He will not forsake me now." + +Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence, +says: + +"Well, I believe I will go, after all." + +"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the +depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just +rising. + +The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until +our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and +spend Sunday at Long Pine. + +I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat, +fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman +back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman +across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old +mother! + +"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there--well, I scarcely know what that +is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair +of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But +while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a +great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved, +it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you +see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of +gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat +in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our +background. + +Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes +up, and the fatherly old gent rouses. + +"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he +asked. + +"I am a member of the colony," I replied. + +"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they +getting along?" + +I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as +lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial introductions. +But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves us with a +pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be J. Wesley +Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at Valentine, but +says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, and tells +stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The thoughtful man is +Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, who will spend +his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, and this is his +first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister that has been bold +enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; "Is the colony +supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our mission talks of +sending one to them if they would wish it." + +"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching, +as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination +is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no +church and no school house nearer than three miles." + +"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the +people together." + +I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and +their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to +Valentine, and remarked: + +"I gathered some very interesting history from----" + +"Well if you believe all old ---- tells you, you may just believe +everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured +a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and +listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter +recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random, +not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in +testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about +their ears." + +"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to +Valentine," I asked. + +"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort +sake, "no danger of you getting shot, _unless_ by _mere accident_. They +are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never known to insult a +lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when they are on a +spree, they are as _wild_ as _wild_ can be;" with an ominous shake of +his head. + +"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?" + +"Can't say, indeed; _hope not_." + +"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he +could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his +hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and +baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one +lodged that came through the house. + +After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car +to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement +than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the +most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card +with: + +"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the +Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your +courage." + +I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake _Tribune_, +Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked: + +"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be +able to do them as much good as others of more experience could." + +I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would +be among them. Mrs. P. whispered: + +"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?" + +"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing +us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after +sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn +much of Valentine, I know all I care to now." + +The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy--I +could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he +wore--changed the subject with: + +"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no +alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this +railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many +a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a +good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these +sand hills then as there is now." + +Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked: + +"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through +all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look +old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks +all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home." + +Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression; +and I have been judging you so harshly. + +"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to +thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a +good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is +there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the +old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in +heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an +evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and +protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far +beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers +a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while +remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in +fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless +auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in +prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and +goodness, I go and feel I am not _alone_. Had it not been for my +faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey; +but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your +stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look +down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest +to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would +write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had +written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of +Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr. +Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So +gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not +care to sleep, for-- + + Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet, + To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep. + +Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the +Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company. + +It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were +so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills +glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of +silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me +from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating +along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as +though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was +eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to +waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and +put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a +greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but +more interesting from its plainer view. + +It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country +as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door +of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level +grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and +sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely +anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries, +white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath +the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly +bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when +"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to +"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went +to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50 +cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the +depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four +passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered +about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from +it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the +bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon +door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs. +P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself +close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a +protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at +first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a +resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all +quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder. +Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and +soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I +would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down +stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the +fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man, +with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to +him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and +some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed +with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of +revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine +looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than +of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an +improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy +in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long +at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a +better life. + +Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened +expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home. + +One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his +head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face +I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general +favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going +away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know +how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number. +I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone, +excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to +read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your +sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so +often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a +wild misspent life. + +As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not +think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store +and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot. +Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear +banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but +was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to +walk about and see the town. + +The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what +looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray +rocks and pine trees. + +It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost +perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or +Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the +Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that +it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained +of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of +it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the +Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited +sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about +100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is +broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their +steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing +in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small +amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile +wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a +time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which +are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an +interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a +pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which +they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags +are lost to view in their own wanderings." + +Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was +but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the +town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from +Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand +banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy +homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and +two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the +Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and +number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land +office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land +of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about +twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is +not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very +long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known. + +About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and +returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left +there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade +Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest +wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant, +which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in. + +From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be +but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that +direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he +would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better +view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and +then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte +that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around +it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed, +and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over +Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even +extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any +information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that +afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians. + +The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that +was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see +a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"--a block house with +loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort +Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses, +most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square. +The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large, +handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings, +chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc. +Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and +reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the +officers and privates. + +The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under +restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is +punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods, +a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the +buildings are the stables--one for the gray and another for the sorrel +horses--about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules. + +The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small +trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly +termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the +driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that +it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to +duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at +a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are +boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for +driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received +fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their +wives there--and but few are allowed that privilege--do so with the +understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for +the soldiers in return for their own keeping. + +After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the +chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were +kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon +called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D. +entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never +was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time +in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of +interest about me, and my time so limited. + +Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly +consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I +quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the +bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out +of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes. + +Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we +were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs +that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand +and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the +cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched +the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys +in one company, and sorrels in another. + +There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a +post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of +the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could +not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of +soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000 +Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so +disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be +retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole +keeper and support--"Uncle Sam." + +We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest +praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad, +as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my +own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he +spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of +brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn, +known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a +brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good +soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent +death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man +and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is +interesting, I will briefly repeat it: + +Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for +believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and +rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became +known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long +after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort, +and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took +with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they +had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock +fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot +by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to +let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the +confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians, +who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies +under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They +followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under +arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not +allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life--a poor +return for such a one as he had taken. + +He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this +the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker +of his life. + +When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail +was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians +were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let +Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when +Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the +agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted +Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the +wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely +followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave +himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but +has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort +Pierre. + +The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant. + +While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to +return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3 +o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he +immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a +half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And +bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our +way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange +beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short, +yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train +left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough +looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established +by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train. +The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of +ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on +us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we +wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine. +So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a +gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a +couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the +train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a +greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked: + +"Do mules ever run off?" + +"Sometimes they do." + +"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?" + +"No, I guess not." + +And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long +lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train +on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government +mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not +add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the +very worst of mules. + +Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off, +and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and +then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half +miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he +helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train. + +Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood--chips +from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of +our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet +as in the morning. + +I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr. +T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs, +which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large +cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground. +They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the +settling up of the country. + +Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th +meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river. + +When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the +man whom I thought must be a pony boy. + +"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to +travel in only a baggage car!" + +"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back, +and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go." + +Mr. T. remarked: + +"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own +company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the +train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I +will speak to the conductor in your behalf. + +The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor +and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that +I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least +discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt +very much alone. + +"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I +sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I +sang--just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and +songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man +think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then +to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way, +and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was +always answered in the most respectful manner. + +I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a +sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any +one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and +whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely." + +Well, all I got written was: + +Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy +roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high; +river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through +a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom. +Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the +cuts. + +THATCHER, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the train from +their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8x10 deserted store-house +almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, Vegetables, and Eggs," +out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' worth have been sold. +Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin fruit cans are strewn +all around. + +To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level +grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told, +are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now. + +ARABIA, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look. + +WOOD LAKE, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some one +has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is +scarcely a house to be seen. + +JOHNSTOWN, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking on a +better appearance--farm houses dotting the country in every direction. +Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty little town, +a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place again. + +Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach +Long Pine about six o'clock. + +Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I +have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises +and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence. +Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use +of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the +stranger for thinking so wrongly of him. + +Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth: + +Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J. +Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie, +fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south, +and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has +one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber +yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one +restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all +to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a +membership of thirteen. + +I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of +seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its +growth since then. + +Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been +decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated +portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the +people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question. +Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight +Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all +foreigners that go west. + +"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number +of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the +result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation +months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house. + +"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A +bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth. +There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river, +yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand +acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a +continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken. +The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and +the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance. +Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre. + +"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are +still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this +place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter +for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough +for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass. + +"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts. +The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will +give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its +merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per +acre; potatoes, weighing 3-1/2 pounds, and 400 bushels per acre; +cabbage, 22 pounds----" + +This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so +favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort +Niobrara, that he disposed of his _Tribune_ office, and returned, +and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken, +and located at Ainsworth. + +I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of +later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's +stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking. + +You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in +preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services +in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One +saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the +saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but +did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the +stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet +with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who +join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt +there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry +(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many +of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are +runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting +stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and +the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who +remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer +in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are +spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for +a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in +looking." + + +LONG PINE. + +After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek +of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery +and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there +could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of +nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired +early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this +hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests +the better for its absence. + +The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long +Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself +started early for the bridge. + +It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it +is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view +by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine +trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the +table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among +the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct +springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream +below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep +pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away, +and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs, +and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara. +We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can +south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the +trees loftier. + +It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to +grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge +and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross +the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and +branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the +springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on +a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water, +and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view +the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so +romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's +winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up +by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on +until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold +wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering +Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow +pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge +and beyond we went, following down the stream. + +Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so +grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania +hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from +twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand +and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials, +and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs. + +Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the +pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back +from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear +conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no +less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too, +preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever +since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post +until the end. + +But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where +a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H. +stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon +a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of +the distance that lay between me and home came before me. + +"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought, +but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that +is all powerful in every hour and need. + +Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come +from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native +state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large +double log house on the banks of the Pine--a very pretty spot they +claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and +said: + +"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go +to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see +some one from home, it would almost cure me!" + +It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh, +Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us +of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black +Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the +few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath +School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a +neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had +been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering. +And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call. + +We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their +home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not +allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and +promised to spend Monday with them. + +We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E. +services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas. + +_Monday_--Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the +Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of +all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are +leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek, +"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs +are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these +cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size. + +Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and +"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a +wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was +explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in +the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her +trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word, +"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only +did our duty." + +We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was +so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can +and will care for his children when they call upon him. + + +MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY. + +"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the +spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health, +but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the +Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched +our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where +Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days, +when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the +other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves +that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after +asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little +house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and +perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the +river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards. + +The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the +Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the +ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the +men, left as soon as his duty was performed. + +About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of +Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to +Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented +that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of +which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife +strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself--and at that time +sick--signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to +sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them. + +He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far +until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding +him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead. + +This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the +shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our +tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison +house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by +a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with +crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their +leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other, +with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render +him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a +worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and +would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our +tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put +his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the +hill and entreated those who came to turn back. + +When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon +came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we +were not again disturbed. + +Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha +for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest +but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the +tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the +long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant +action. + +Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for +fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply +of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the +man, and morning came and found him still living. + +Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that +our children were safe. + +Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he +very badly needed. + +After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men, +friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of +Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were +his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with +their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as +guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver. + +Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him +to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when +they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to +land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I +was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on +to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we +had pursued. + +The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles +away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to +depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated +through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if +Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and +warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save +ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take +whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that +our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we +had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with +us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come +again, and urged me to go with her to her home. + +"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you _must not_ leave me!" and then the +thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her own life +for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone. + +When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could +not refrain from singing, + + "Through this changing world below, + Lead me gently, gently, as I go; + Trusting Thee, I cannot stray, + I can never, never lose my way." + +And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over +the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came +upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst +you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper, +"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against +thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but +greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though +surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R. +came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home +she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own +safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all +dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain. + +Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the +appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting +and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday. + +On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a +prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do +hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for +he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old. + +(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of +his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all +his bad deeds behind.) + +Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death +blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we +did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton. + +We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles +further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five +hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only +remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we +could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the +frontier again. + +In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never +experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for +a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they +would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their +revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was +done to assure me that I was safe at their hands. + + +I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I +repeat only truth. + +And now to her collection of curiosities--but can only mention a few: +One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two +feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed +the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they +left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had +been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of +which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in +circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the +point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white, +and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered +from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors. +As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to +a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did +not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking. + +It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But +what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our +guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me +with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities. + +There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be +persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet +had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the +beaver with only their four front teeth. + +The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine, +cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of +a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal +of lumber. + +Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he +was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in +April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular +services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown, +Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all. + +Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing +between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the +spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora +Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak +and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr. +S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state, +and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my +newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but, +best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat." + +But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the +beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in +June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H. +Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and +pitched a boarding tent, 14x16, from which they fed the workmen on the +railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was +followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now +there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one +drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant. +Population 175. + +From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean +the following: + +"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you +visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put +up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22x86, ten +two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of +both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved +into their 20x40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second +story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's +hardware, where also religious services are regularly held. +Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree. +The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is +proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting +in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a +saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine, +three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing +pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty +bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato +raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured +twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half +short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of +north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast +disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of +what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back +from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles. + +"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for +nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber +culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded +lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been +taken up during the past year. + +"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our +county, and find as follows: + +"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters +to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters. +Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it +will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead, +pre-emption, and timber culture laws. + +"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen +miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across +the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter." + +From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country +well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county +is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average +favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further +developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be +a good producing soil." + +Water is good and easily obtained. + +The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the +creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around +on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a +distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long +Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery. + +The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are +of a clear, white sand. + +But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has +been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be +eastward bound. + +Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back +from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on +the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new +merchant just opening a store near the colony. + +Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so +pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the +cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were +drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he +and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very +unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a +ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better +life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole +use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to +lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift +given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone +would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat; +so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep. + +How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs. +Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back." + +Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219 +miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry +brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to +themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of +the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two +occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first +train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter +Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on +the south. + +Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up +of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new, +rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first, +until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere. + +But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of +Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is +permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then +the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty. + +So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.), +which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general +stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm +implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and +blacksmith shop, and a bank. + +Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was +visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on +the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has +here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of +April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out +from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and +shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the +story of the first chapter. + +Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I +have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that +the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very +appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C." + +From The Stuart _Ledger_ we quote: The Methodists have organized +with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the +building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev. +Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson +is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of +Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24x42, where over +60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss +Mamie Woods. An opera house 22x60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's +building, 18x24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist, +and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will +close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received +from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24: +"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two +months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come +in their 'schooners.' + +"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three +feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly +enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December." + +But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion"; +of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as +satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe +its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape, +and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets, +closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth, +and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your +satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full +length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want +to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and +was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can +be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel; +and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all +I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists, +and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing +"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart. + +The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr. +Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family. +Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard. + +Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the +following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place: +"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two +hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a +population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine +month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about +$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson _Graphic_, +several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention. +Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about +500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county +during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa, +though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles +east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last +March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday +school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can +be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by +next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily +obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton." + +I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded +coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114 +miles, to attend Robinson's circus--but shows are a rarity here. The +light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding +country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling +prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there +settlers' homes with their culture of timber. + +O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians, +and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt +county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches, +Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It has +three papers, The _Frontier_, Holt County _Banner_, both republican, +and O'Neill _Tribune_, Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a +mile from the river. Gen. O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha. + +Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the +Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this +point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was +completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college +located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81. +U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83. +County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a +private enterprise by the citizens. + +I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also +given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless +to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well +represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will +bring into a western town. + +To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much +that has already been said of others, and the story of their added +years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of +to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further? + +The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright, +new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost +weaving high. + +It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as +we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties. + +That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road +to Missouri Valley--its starting point--and for this we have Mr. J. R. +Buchanan for authority. + +There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of +the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in +1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New +Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road. +Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was +worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population; +is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the +vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no +superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of +wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn. +Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre, +now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00. + +The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached +Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about +100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad +was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the +direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black +Hills. + +As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it +will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri +river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the +channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until +the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000 +feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments +built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the +river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over +$1,000,000. + +But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must +leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.--A +description of the great Platte Valley. + + +I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a +depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to +putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master +until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge +storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to +remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act +of kindness shown me already. + +At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket +agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road, +which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am +glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed +at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer. +Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot." + +"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the +telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could +not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of +colonizing on the frontier." + +"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have +been inquiring for you--but you must stop on your return and see the +beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you." + +Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was +not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were +thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to +see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was +almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden. +I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded +westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn. + +The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren +of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is +lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied +and much under cultivation. + +I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the +railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its +amber light, making it a beautiful sight. + +Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from +an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles +wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and +hindered all further sight-seeing. + +The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out +of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares, +"It is just good for him--no business to let the man get his hand on +his money!" + +"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the +conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat, +assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the +old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to +protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the +conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss." + +I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour +would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot, +but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me +with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!" + +We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our +letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity +and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found +Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me. + +To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo +Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and +trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning +much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we +found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a +long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from +the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters: +Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black +hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color +and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet +teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is +taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but +delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features +and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet +of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young. + +It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate +as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and +the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void +the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed +enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with +his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has +always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him. + +To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the +"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the +following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill." + +His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport, +Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport. +Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature +from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at +Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was +occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on +reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to +California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers +and Mormons. + +Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their +language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance +and shoot with bow and arrow. + +In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that +had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery +man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a +burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he +died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for +burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of +armed men came to take the life that had just gone out. + +Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing +service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first +blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl +sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and +thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and +took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him +from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely +forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the +employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty +being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City +to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the +Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of +the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great +freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity +of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train +consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a +railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of +transportation beyond the states. + +It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his +first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a +party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the +cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing +several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from +the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the +creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first +shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young +as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has +since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage +driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government, +which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very +best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa +Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature +in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his +exhibitions on the stage. + +When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of, +they just call it buffalo ---- and as a consequence, there are buffalo +gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss, +grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when +he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the +Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day. + +I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the +country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn +of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost +every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta +and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln +county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the +sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte +rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December, +1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the +town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had +to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars. + +North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business +houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land +office of the western district embraces the government land of +Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and +Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the +surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as +stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is +quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are +fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but +those which have been cultivated. + +Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of +the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and +painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited +to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door +six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without +ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens +and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were +discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room, +thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how +they would enjoy it. + +"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests, +but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed +the joke." + +Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was +abandoned four years ago. + +Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to +be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot, +I left Monday evening for Plum Creek. + +How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and +whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of +adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about +their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the +lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away. + +I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the +east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do +better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken +mother. + +"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us +on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester, +N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave +lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last +summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I +die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for +the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more +than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely +child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'" + +Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been +interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady +from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how +they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not +be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never +been without a snow-cap since she first saw them. + +Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to +meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we +preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the +gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston +House. + +I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania +about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum +creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the +little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming +Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum +Creek. + +Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to +Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April, +1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still +holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station +house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he +built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present +town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one +mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile +further west. + +Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County _Pioneer_, +of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history: + +"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the +organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71, +at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the +entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told. +But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous +people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated +March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the +Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point. + +"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs +affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians. + +"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte +river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was +celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of +Columbus. + +"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the +churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their +religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the +Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of +'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the +county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev. +Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in +'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the +Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian +congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary. + +"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and +far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska +colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under +charge of F. J. Pearson. + +"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their +first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the +U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses." + +I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor _Pioneer_, whom I +questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained have +done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther west, +until there is not many of us left; only about eight families that are +now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by the +grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was very +discouraging." + +I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove +their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be +driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe. + +"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the +treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of +light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after +they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose +mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal, +seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west +of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which +two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still +living." + +Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel +in a 16x20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men, +who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they +could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is +now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek. + +While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact +some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked-- + +"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him +how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I +can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?' +No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married. +He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take +you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John +Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a +family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania. + +The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even +this opportunity to get to my friends. + +Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white +with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of +it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the +bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph +Butterbaugh--our old neighbor--coming to town, and who was greatly +surprised, as they had not received my letter. + +We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and +sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces, +just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along +the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to +our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely +improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others +where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod +houses). + +Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one +herd, making it dangerous for travelers. + +Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house +built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any +lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are +built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building +of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then +built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the +summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a +good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for +sheep. + +Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box +nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and +receives the mail. + +Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad +land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for +pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod. + +Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8x10 frame, where +the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for +holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in. + +It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the +stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon +us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in +my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I +know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily +sang: + + "I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild, + And feel that my mother now thinks of her child, + As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door, + Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more." + +I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined +by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and +together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I +sing with more emphasis than-- + + "Oh give me back my native hills, + Rough, rugged though they be, + No other land, no other clime + Is half so dear to me." + +But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in +the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying: + +"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and +sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I +don't think I have tried to sing it since." + +All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I +thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes +down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until +it echoed from bluff to bluff. + +But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr. +A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the +morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr. +A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her. + +Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with +me on that morning ride. + +Rough? + +There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some +things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt, +as that horse _tried_ to trot--perhaps it was my poke hat that was +coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted +Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot. + +When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go +three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast. + +"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow: +mind, we don't want to be going round many corners." + +"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you; +can you stand another trot?" + +And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and +laugh at my attempt at riding. + +It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's +sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered--"Breakfast +for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill +into a "grand gallop." + +Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my +laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the +door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the +laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after +all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one. +Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the +river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded +away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie, +bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old +friends. + +We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs +and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the _swing_ very +much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a +half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to +come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To +peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight +to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of +one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the +Platte river three miles away--the river a mile in width, and the wide +valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The +U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the +trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the +east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes +Cozad, Willow Island--almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first +house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add +the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83: + +Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five +families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to +be more than doubled by spring. + +But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after +wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight +until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills +and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or +pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a +river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and +are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call +calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They +seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed +with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how aesthetic we have +grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect--would much +rather look at the deer tracks. + +The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and +cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all +taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain +cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun +with grape-vines. + +Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring +it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor +fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower? +But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown +doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt +bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I +returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very +deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not +touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so +lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it--well, he didn't catch the +rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun. + +_Sunday._ We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and +Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with +Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner +time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen--only a few +willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected +from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a +garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest +flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms +same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is +not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk? + +The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the +widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the +north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of +the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water +is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the +table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we +heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?" +I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a +boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing +if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that +pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves +of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width, +and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of +everything but grass. + +The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting +of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that +rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the +North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the +north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It +has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and +rapid--running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and +changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its +brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under +ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican +river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than +the Platte. + +We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of +our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound +train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have +described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our +colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought +large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the +Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give +depth of soil and its production, but will add the following: + +Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels +wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30; +and barley about 40 bushels per acre. + +First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of +December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was +108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below, +which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as +high as 36 above since. + +The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. & +M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R. + +In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the +same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county. +First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in +'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list +shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north +side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160 +miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in +'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that +time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and +bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a +canal to utilize the waters of the Platte. + +Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that +hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar, +maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont, +named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842 +and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed +but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and +silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river +and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his +mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large +and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated +at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but +now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches. +It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must +add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any +sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for +some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near +the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are +entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun. + +I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along +the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance +as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha +about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had +breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt +Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R. +land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well. + +Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha +Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was +made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been +ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska +shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the +present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a +homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was +founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied +across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge +completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the +first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten +dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha, +and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill. + +The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected +for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton, +Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa +shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the +Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to +make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren +plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet +above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water +tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis. +It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha +now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's +principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient. + +I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and +as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln, +about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master, +and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed +to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington +House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my +friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman +to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and +that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homoeopathic +physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners +live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania. +But a better thought came--that of the Baptist minister, as they +attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and +through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a +long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your +friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us +to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his +kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin +Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather +long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met. +"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if +you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile +walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City +Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I +have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find +the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood +waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln +in my walking up and down--at least all I cared to. But the welcome +"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the +kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its +unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I +was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own +garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling +stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing +but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia +Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of +finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie, +you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in +Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor." + +And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing +this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska. +Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty +miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction, +in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which +connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was +the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is +4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J. +W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company +yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where +some government land is yet to be had. + +A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln, +Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April +24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have +gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in +unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty +acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan, +in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying +their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land +within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all +government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest +fit only for grazing. + +This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on +Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with +much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue." + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return via +Hastings.--A description of the Republican and Blue Valleys.--The +Saratoga of Nebraska. + + +We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making +point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for +"Danger"--danger of it biting me or getting away--my prairie dog, which +had found a home in a barrel. + +One evening Cousin Andy said: + +"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?" + +"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they +make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that +reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering +the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in +the side told the story. + +I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price +for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a +Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him. + +The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor +table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found +him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know +just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with +heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but +by morning the ground would be in good working order. + +Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for +several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county +field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving +their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now +earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation. + +When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was +entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so +completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob +Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built +railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the +way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in +the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres, +and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers +until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads, +settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has +an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon. + +I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent +of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and +while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the +third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central +Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska. + +After a few moments conversation, he asked: + +"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?" + +"Indiana county." + +"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is +dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me +all kindness and interest. + +At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of +his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same +kindness and attention that every one does at his hands. + +"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern +Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that +truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then +seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends +and more of the state. + +A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face +was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me +she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not +expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last. + +Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience: +I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three +months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word +of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my +young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously +ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her +off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that +she might find her brother better. + +The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my +eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect +snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression +from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but +that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention +by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold +and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little +ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just +as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look +as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first +foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a +settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely +together as possible. + +I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I +had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked: + +"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?" + +"Yes, sir." + +"To Mr. Fulton's?" + +"Why, yes. You know my friends then?" + +"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew +where you were going." + +No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but +then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are +different people. + +"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed +at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was +the one she had expected." + +"You know where they live then?" + +"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you +to the house." + +With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to +his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when +I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous +week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my +Uncle's door. + +"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around +me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often. + +"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to +go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought +you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us +yesterday." + +"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the +depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just +when I am given up for good." + +Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his +motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over, +Aunt said: + +"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!" + +"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?" + +"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?" + +"No, not a word." + +"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about +now." + +"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then +I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps +already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of +what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God +in His great loving kindness is sparing us! + +I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle +John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same +village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the +year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the +saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and +baby Ruth, with malaria fever. + +To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs--a +town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the +banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great +volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber--honey locust, elm, +box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees +and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches +in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska, +and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long. + +I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to +us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just +as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among +the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers +of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says: + +"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in +this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J. +H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first +surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were +Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek +is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs. + +"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among +us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had +been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the +first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the +Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only +three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers. +Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of +flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them +quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a +sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed +to a post for everybody to use. + +"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two +months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell +everybody else to come. And come they did--walking, riding in ox +wagons, and any way at all--until in all there was 150 of us. The +ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress +in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the +dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn +dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn. +The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We +sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers +with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some +war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight. +Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind. +So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all +summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow +bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and--well, that corn +money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500 +bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as +this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160 +acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for +$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000. + +"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together +in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us +prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle +to the Otoe Indians on the reservation. + +"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor +pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the +field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with +their ponies. + +"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from +Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week +from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars +a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody +went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission +Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday +morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80. + +"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and +surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life +we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted +me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't +see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out +to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how +much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on +the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody +calls me 'Pap Tyler.'" + +I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the +Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom +of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were +about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old +ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not +that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a +country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the +people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated +man. I marked him--fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the +state. The programme of the day was as follows: + + SONG--_The Red, White, and Blue_. + + DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE--Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of + twelve years. + + SONG--_Night Before the Battle_. + + TOAST--_Our Schools_. Responded to by J. C. Burch. + + TOAST--_Our Railroads_. Rev. J. M. Pryse. + + MUSIC--By the band. + + TOAST--_Our Neighbors_. Rev. E. H. Burrington. + +Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and +with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their +dinners. + +Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat +my dinner under the flag with a stain--a rebel flag of eleven stars and +three stripes--a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast. + +In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom +tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the +celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works. + + +WYMORE + +Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost +an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the +spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the +ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640 +acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here +sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed. + +One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little +shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built +homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you +what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat +Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall, +Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of +their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising +western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on +Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The +heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a +feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool +and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon +almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush, +or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day." + +It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will +shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake. + +The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is +a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but +one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and +south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two +miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it +with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary. + +Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue +on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six +miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another +creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800, +on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and +west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the +agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at +the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied. + +A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency." +It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the +30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a +"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I +felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so +desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting +posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the +head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and +hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little +ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy +hunting-ground." + +This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other +tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new +home in the Indian Territory. + +The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in +places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see +Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun +was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska +breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until +the stars were shining. + +For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw +working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached +to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and +the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans; +minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking +these days when it says 100 deg. in the shade, cool, and if you can't take +them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not +do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled +over and broke the bulb. + +There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came +in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a +cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or +two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and +shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner +of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie +and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 P.M. +train, July 5th. + +I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all +crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such +a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these +dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as +though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and +friends. + +Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and +nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and +now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy +meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of +the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along: + + +ODELL, + +A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet +well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent +the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the +Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins +hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's +planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with +bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark +muddy water that covers the bottom. + + +DILLER, + +A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing +platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and +grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is +running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes. + + +INDIAN CREEK. + +Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now +just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill +killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they +were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for +thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly +defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his +hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill +from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer +used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians, +and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The +stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place, +and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at + + +ENDICOTT, + +A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the +centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing +through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear +door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all. + + +REYNOLDS, + +A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good +homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so +good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the +hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in +bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is +running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why +Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the +left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I +do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence. +Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor +looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of +cattle grazing. + + +HUBBELL. + +Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power; +only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall +wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county, +which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of +Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have +since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five, +wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in +this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in +hand, and was referred to ---- ---- for information, who asked-- + +"Are you writing for the _Inter Ocean_?" + +"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied. + +"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a +lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their +publication." + +I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work. + +We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls +county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old +schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking +since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me +to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard +some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand, +gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just +beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that +points its spire heavenward through his labors. + +The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all +the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the +friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three +little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the +beauties of the "Garden of the West." + +The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we +cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling, +and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land, +with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The +prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our +portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower. +While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a +faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier. +They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves +sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing. + +Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to +think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these +great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a +weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is +almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make +one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of +black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with +Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some +years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk +house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a +wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs +when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in +any direction. + +I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky +waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and +go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay +with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one +who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have +you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I +was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I +_must_ go, and sunset saw me off. + +All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge +I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough--sandy bed and banks, +trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there +only in wet weather. + +I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles +north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for +several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean +passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks +of the Republican. + +So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will +know what they are. + + +SUPERIOR + +Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The +Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not +catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I +thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not +understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much +emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on +the beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains +he has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I _just love_ +to go fossiling! Don't you _love_ to go fossiling, Miss?" + +"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know +it is just too _lovely_ for _anything_." + +It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern +people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not +tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers, +and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I +went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next +morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine +and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on +all of the three railroads. + +I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have +always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive, +and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his +engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great +throbbing heart of the Centennial--the Corliss engine, excited my +admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the +Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore +with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and +all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned +to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at +Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a +ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long +wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the +fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the +window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that +amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a +minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my +impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was +there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I +appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola. + +"Fourteen miles," was the reply. + +Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the +engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a +bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and +let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the +wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place. +When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they +had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen +minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as +he did so, asked: + +"Well, did they go pretty fast?" + +"I don't know, did they?" I replied. + +I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at +McCook. + +After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the +seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the +railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the +little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a +population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks +of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of +the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up +with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place +I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford, +Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first +house was built in June, '82. + +I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of +the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is +seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the +appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame +house, build one that will look well at a distance. + +Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried +from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and +located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at +a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook +_Tribune_, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then +in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near +which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed +through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained +from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as +has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained, +and brick is cheaper than in the east. + +From a copy of the Daily _Tribune_, I read a long list of business +firms and professional cards, and finished with, "_no saloons_." + +The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics +worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given +the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called +upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from +home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the +east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the +east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook. +I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the +Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She +told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the +ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general. + +"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found +in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few +days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can +and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an +engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without +seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this +road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness +that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to +point out all that was of interest, along the way." + +The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops, +with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken +claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought +80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the +homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough +to go into stock-raising. + +This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western +part of Hitchcock county. + +Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight +counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The +40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the +Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is +easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well +sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south. +These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood, +and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly +populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone, +the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty +of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and +will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go. + +A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado, +are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand, +and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side +and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by +the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was. + +The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond +lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does +not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars +in all shapes and little islands of green--there it winds to the south +and is lost to sight--herds of cattle--corn field--river again with +willow fringed bank--cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand, +or they would not be there long--river gone again--tall willow +grove--wire fencing--creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width. +Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles +long, and cattle grazing in it--all fenced in until we reach + + +INDIANOLA, + +one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was +surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was +slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400 +inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses' +from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and +school house--great herd of cattle--wilderness of sunflowers turning +their bright faces to the sun--now nothing but grass--corral made of +logs--corn and potatoes--out of the old sod into the nice new +frame--river beautifully wooded--valley about four miles wide from +bluff to bluff--dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at +home--board fence. + + +CAMBRIDGE. + +Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring +mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose +shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple +shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers. + +Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo +wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good. + + +ARAPAHOE. + +Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and +bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on +their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern +point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty +miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that +neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are +two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was +platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in +sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them! +didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in +very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream +no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its +banks. River close; trees--there, it and the trees are both gone south. +Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain. + + +OXFORD. + +Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north; +town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a +Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for +mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and +cattle, cattle--What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out +west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan +county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small +towns, but will not be so long. + +Here we are at + + +ORLEANS. + +A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the +north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before +me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her +company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream +called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which +the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the +town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and +for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their +right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles +east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400 +of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county +seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its +interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land. +Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land; +large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old +sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt. + + +ALMA. + +Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the +table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the +county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town. + +That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near +Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the +interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her +fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only +passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove +the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other +talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk. + + +REPUBLICAN CITY. + +Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400. +Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would +be more plenty. + + +NAPONEE. + +Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in +sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery. + +BLOOMINGTON--the "Highland City"--the county seat of Franklin county, +and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful valley, +nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public buildings, +and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian churches, a large +Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, a large creamery, +and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians are excellent +judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch of country, +although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The Pawnees were +the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I do not wonder +that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown into a grand +possession for their white brothers. + +I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half +and use a dash for the rest of the words cor--, pota--, bush--, tre--, +riv--. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that +wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a +good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it +came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre-- or bus--; +well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive +roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the +river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have +ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for +awhile, and just then you haven't. + +But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at FRANKLIN, a real +good solid town. First house built July, 1879. I never can guess how +many people live in a town by looking at it from a car window. How do I +know how many there are at work in the creamery, flouring mill, and +woolen factory? And how many pupils are studying in the Franklin +Academy, a fine two-story building erected by the Republican Valley +Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? First term opened Dec. +6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is $12,000, and they +propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and seven students have +been enrolled during the present term. And how many little boys and +girls in the common school building? or how many are in their nicely +painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and dug-outs in +the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of the ground? It +takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds of houses to +make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, oats, millet, +broom corn, and all _sich_--good all the way along this valley. + + +RIVERTON. + +A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in +ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M. +Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to +$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great +fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now; +there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of +the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the +Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it +brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the +bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes" +and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One +minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as +though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a +direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile. +Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has +stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed! +Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles +away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call + + +RED CLOUD! + +Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud, +I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams +were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I +stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad; +first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that +hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my +foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new +moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the +Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking +up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a +rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last +came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes +into a silent prayer: + +"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!" + +I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage, +enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me +into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant +lady, and soon I was listening to the following story: + +"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers, +and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which +much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other +settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several +settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently +visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for +taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people +stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of +logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first +winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in +the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this +spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but +was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on +the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and +as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also +plenty of elk, antelope, and deer. + +"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in +my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes +polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the +summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer +county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72, +and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe." + +The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told +of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I +could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he +is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo +meat hung to the ceiling, and added: + +"I spent many a happy day there." + +Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving +well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a +dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden +even by the most humble abode. + +The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same +as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and +have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's +children. + +When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said: + +"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as +Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness, +for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in +the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days +and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery--her native +state. + +The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing +the surrounding beauties of their home. + +"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years +ago--fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some +think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while +Mrs. G. says: + +"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if +I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in +the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and +phaeton to take me to the depot. + +Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming +and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large +photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more +of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14x16 +hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out: + +"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good +home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud, +which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for +their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over +sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100 +miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their +groceries. + +As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from +centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which +Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had +made that he paid for in years of service to his country. + +When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450 +inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the +B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster +county, and surrounded by a rich country--need I add more? + + +AMBOY. + +A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with +bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short. + + +COWLES. + +Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to +be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I +feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling +to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another +how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic +thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will +cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he +wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more +than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes +and groves of trees. + + +BLUE HILL. + +A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that +blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy +life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers +with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by +only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and +smiles upon me even here. + + Bloom, little flower, all the way along, + Sing to us travelers your own quiet song, + Speak to us softly, gently, and low, + Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know? + +Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick. + +This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it +so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of +trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of +the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist. + + +AYR + +Was but a small town, so we go on to HASTINGS, a town of over 5,000 +inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six miles +west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The B. & +M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it was not +a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. Joe & +Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point in the +following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W. +Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors +of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same year, +the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, the +salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the state +for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is nicely +built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from fires. I +notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep here. The +surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking good. + +Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are +all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all. +I notice the churches are well attended. + +A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and, +as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better +my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken +stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that +condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I +cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good +young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was +intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any +one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such +a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as +this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he +passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all +for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most +insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is +Sunday. + + +CRETE. + +Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue +river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant, +shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy +retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre +of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds +of the N.S.S.A.A. + + +LINCOLN. + +Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to +watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when +I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking +through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind +upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I +didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he +had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am +only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him +I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for +me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my +friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I +thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had +a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on. +After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one +of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them +another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as +they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday. + +_Monday._ Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without +it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your +baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about +it." + +"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for +this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had." +"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would +replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and +button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will +never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never +replace. No, I _must_ not lose it!" And then I stole away and went +to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that +help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and +as I prayed this lesson came to me--How alarmed I am over the loss of a +little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when +so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and +each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read +and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things. +And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten. + +I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good, +nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would +just take a good cry over it, and--but won't I hug my dusty satchels if +I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I +supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for +me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own. + +So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie +took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the +nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so +slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But +I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a +minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the +depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble, +but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the +faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I +turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage, +little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my +fan. "Oh dear, I am _so_ glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my +satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to +give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting +attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch +my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to +do better.--I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a +thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the +Republican valley, and then about my baggage. + +"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?" + +"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old +lady, and must go and see to it." + +When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both +gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked: + +"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?" + +"Nothing; I did not know you had found it." + +Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said: + +"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to." + +"The conductor carried it away." + +"Where did he go to?" + +"I don't know, Miss." + +Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought. + +"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had +followed me. "What's gone?" + +"Why, my baggage; it's gone again." + +"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in +here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov. +Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all +carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad, +and a good lesson learned. + +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at +Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July +20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this +table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under +the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are +as follows: + + Pacific Junction to Kearney 196 + + Omaha line 17 + + Nebraska City to Central City 150 + + Nebraska City to Beatrice 92 + + Atchison to Columbus 221 + + Crete to Red Cloud 150 + + Table Rock to Wymore 38 + + Hastings to Culbertson 171 + + Denver Extension 244 + + Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford 77 + + Chester to Hebron 12 + + DeWitt to West Line 25 + + Odell to Washington, Kan. 26 + + Nemaha to Salem 18 + +The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the +C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous +"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between +Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management, +tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are +entirely avoided. + +P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at +the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent, +while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R. +Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct +all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His +thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having +spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for +this office. + + +MILFORD. + +"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue" +river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of +thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and +sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr. +Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I +was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs. +Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who +located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in +'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by +the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town +that afterward grew up about him. + +Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made +very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land +of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through +the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers +and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the +common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due +west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr. +Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is +now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies. +Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes +and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a +log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A +saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at +hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his +flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none +other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of +the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs. +Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from +her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were +competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and +I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest." + +Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a +broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away +captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was +very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it. + +In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies +high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then +winding down canyon Seata, _little_ canyon, we crossed the River to the +Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, hickory, +and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines--one we +measured being sixteen inches in circumference--while a cottonwood +measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor +where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the +Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its +shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But +pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling +Springs." + +Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring +flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay +into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes, +but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened +rock. + +The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine +for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the +running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house +in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in +'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and +gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley _Record_." +Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the "_Congregational News_" +in '78. + +The "Milford _Ozone_" is the leading organ of the day, so named for the +health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy. + +A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as +postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via +Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J. +H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was +established. + +The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a +large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of +300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross +the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a +view of the new town of EAST MILFORD laid out on an eighty acre plot +that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It is a +private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly +favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of +the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside +home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot +and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet +found in Nebraska. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL. + + +Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived +from the Indian _ne_ (water) and _bras_ (shallow), and means shallow +water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to 208 from +north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that lie between +parallels 40 deg. and 43 deg. north latitude, and 18 deg. and 27 deg. west longitude. + +The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the +original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only +herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854, +"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made +it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for +its motto "_Equality before the Law_." + +The governors of Nebraska territory were: + + Francis Burt, 1854. + T. B. Cuming, 1854-5. + Mark W. Izard, 1855-8. + W. A. Richardson, 1858. + J. S. Morton, 1858-9. + Samuel W. Black, 1859-61. + Alvin Saunders, 1861-6. + David Butler, 1866-7. + +Of the state-- + + David Butler, 1867-71. + William H. James, 1871-3. + Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5. + Silas Garber, 1875-9. + Albinus Nance, 1879-83. + James W. Dawes, 1883. + +Allow me to quote from the _Centennial Gazetteer of United States_: + +"SURFACE.--Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends along +the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down toward +the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. There are +no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed mountains. +The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous loam, which +is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in deeply eroded +valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest fertility, +which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, ash, and +other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. Late surveys +establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom lands is from +13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres. + +"THE CLIMATE of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of other +states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The mean +annual temperature varies from 47 deg. in the northern sections to 57 deg. in +the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part of +the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the westerly +winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress the +thermometer to 20 deg. and sometimes 30 deg. below zero; while in the summer a +temperature of 100 deg. and over is not unusual. In the southern tier of +counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76-1/4 deg., and of winter, +30-1/2 deg.. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 inches) +falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall steadily +decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the western +counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the state. + +"POPULATION.--Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and in 1870, +122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, including +18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population numbered +30,748. + +"EDUCATION.--Nebraska has more organized schools, more school houses, +and those of a superior character; more money invested in buildings, +books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the same age. +The land endowed for the public schools embraces one-eighteenth of the +entire area of the state--2,623,080 acres." The school lands are sold +at not less than seven dollars per acre, which will yield a fund of not +less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from six to ten per cent +interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. The principal is +invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished while the +interest and income alone is used. + +The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly +supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable +and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in +Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the +Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength. +The Catholic church is fully represented. + +The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest +percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second. +Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania: + +Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write; +Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write. +Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891. + +Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United +States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of +the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at +the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its +salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the +air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low +temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong, +cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but +17 deg., and of the summer 70 deg.. + +I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in +general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern +people. + +Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not +accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year--since +which time there has been rapid developments--will speak volumes for +the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union. + +The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an +increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828 +in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933 +to 452,542, nearly four-fold. + +The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its +capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a +population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square +mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a +population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would +have 17,480,000 people. + +The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874 +to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per +year. In 1883 there was raised in the state: + + Wheat 27,481,300. + Corn 101,276,000. + Oats 21,630,000. + +Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has +prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up +to Nov. 13, 1883: + + Corn, yield per acre 41 bushels. + Quality 85 per cent. + Potatoes, Irish 147 bushels. + Quality 109 per cent. + Potatoes, sweet 114 bushels. + Quality 111 per cent. + Hay, average tame and wild 2 tons per a. + Quality 107 per cent. + Sorghum, yield per acre 119 gallons. + Grapes, yield and quality 88 per cent. + Apples, yield and quality 97 per cent. + Pears, yield and quality 52 per cent. + Condition of orchards 100 per cent. + Spring wheat threshed at date 82 per cent. + +Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for +market, Dec. 1. + +In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a +total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised +annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and +250,000 sheep. + +The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring +the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000 +inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into +the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor +dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done +by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence. + +During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven +intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the +least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the +state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a +population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska. + +I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women. + +"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own +at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or +proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall +come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her +husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall +remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage, +and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for +his debts. + +"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt +contracted by the wife before marriage." + +The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail +transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two +years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was +about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations +were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft. +Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.; +Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers +left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month; +carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two +years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from +St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in +sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now +Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad. + +I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising +people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that +enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new +country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after +while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of +ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west +by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a +strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to +learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept +and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear +great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the +forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their +children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has +furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good +idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day, +and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general +hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska +could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children. + + +LINCOLN. + +In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at +Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of +State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and +locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present +_capital_ site was chosen--then a wild waste of grasses, where a few +scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that +once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster +post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the +Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide" +between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and +broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public +buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom +Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state, +a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and +founded a paper town and called it Lancaster. + +The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was +as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the +state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all +the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the +commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the +summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer, +which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few +and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale +of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he +received his wages--$300--he remarked that he would not give his pay +for the whole town site. + +The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100 +houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67, +but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in +January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was +realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State +University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all +other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold. + +The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The +post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national +government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were +reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot +is a large brick building 183x53 and three stories high, with lunch +room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room, +and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices +on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily +carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway +accommodations. + +All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were +given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature, +which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was +organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman +Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69; +Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A +number have since been added. + +THE STATE JOURNAL CO. On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day following the +announcement that Lancaster was _the place_ for the capital site there +appeared in the _Nebraska City Press_ a prospectus for the publication +of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be called the _Nebraska +Commonwealth_, C. H. Gere, Editor. But not until the latter part of +Nov. did it have an established office in the new city. In the spring +of '69 the _Commonwealth_ was changed to the Nebraska _State Journal_. +As a daily it was first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B. +& M.R.R. ran its first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage +coaches that had been the only means of transportation to the capital. +In '82 the State Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new +building on the corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and +brick, four stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The +officers are C. H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R. +Clark, Sec., and H. D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125 +hands. Beside the _Journal_ are the _Democrat_ and _News_, daily; the +_Nebraska Farmer_, semi-monthly; the _Capital_, weekly; the _Hesperian +Student_, monthly, published by the students of the University, and the +_Staats Anzeiger_, a German paper, issued weekly. + +On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G +street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and +spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But +Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in +that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and +about Lincoln. + +Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of +convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who +had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act. +Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready +to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good +behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step +beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all +the departments--the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where +brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot +mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and +stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at +the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of +stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a +prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4x7 feet, and furnished +with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to +write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what +they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read +before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom +are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their +cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals +together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives +and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly +to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the +wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation. +Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each +other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not +even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow +neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until +seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two +or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a +privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general +hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at +nine A.M., they are marched in close file to the chapel, where Rev. +Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and New York, +gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and Him +Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian +doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within +prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of +their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's +daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are +readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the +dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his +services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars, +the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron +door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs, +and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on +the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left. +They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to +see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and +there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked +into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I +have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to +me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will always +be watching to see what good men and women you make; great +philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good +ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice, +honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President +sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your +name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll +be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their +innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised +to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture +before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy--a God not only +to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are +here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin +with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched +drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be +men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God +will punish the _cause_, while man calls the effect to account. For my +part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest drunkard from +the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest liquor dealer in +the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he deals out, and +that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of ruined souls, +souls for which he will have to answer for before the Great Judge who +never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt by a jury. + +Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt +we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home. + +_Friday._ About two P.M. the sky was suddenly darkened with angry +looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they grew more +threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not anxious to +witness a cyclone, but if one _must_ come, I wanted to watch its +coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the clouds +rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and we drove +out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck of a brick +building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy fall of +hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some places. +This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. [ERRATA. +Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" read +"Nebraska is _not_ visited." Third line from bottom leave out the +word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as some +suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep over +some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind that I +was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather than +does Pennsylvania. + +The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very +oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature. + +_Saturday_ we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and +drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has +many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all." + +Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine +view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over +housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many +beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120 +feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks, +five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk +proper--built of stone, brick, or plank--and the remaining eleven feet +are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards. + +The streets running north and south are numbered from first to +twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W. + +Saturday evening--a beautiful moonlight night--just such a night as +makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has +been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the +mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know +if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be +aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because +I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a +neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over _after dark_. All saddled, +Fanny waits at the door, and I must go. + +Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back--I'll +telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am +told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have +only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for--but a +happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start. + + One by one her feet are lifted, + One by one she sets them down; + Step by step we leave the gatepost, + And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle, + +when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you +cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My +thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey. + +Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly. +But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night, +and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak--_if I ever reached +the foot of the mountain_,--that I did not notice that Fanny had +crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post. +Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but +she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg +him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were +created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow, +cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot. + +Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie +Keefer. + +"What does it eat?" I asked. + +"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all." + +I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but +Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night. + +In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was +asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln. +Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed +strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in +among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and +cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship. +They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief, +requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist +church, to come and baptise their infants. + +I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind, +but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so +earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I +wore an expression of pity instead. + +The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and +seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of +their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son +of Africa arose and said: + +"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for +about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And +Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat +rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called +sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit +by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake +bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of +time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my +time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in +prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands, +and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a +continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the +prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard. +One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by +bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too +large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while +she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing, +if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only +hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing +in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it +was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word +long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way. +It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description, +and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing +short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was +very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with +the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table +and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride +and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men +stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put +down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could +not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down, +and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a +piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister +closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander +would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if +de Lord am willin, I'll be here too." + +A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with +an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening +found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes. + +Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to +speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text +am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua +commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great +wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by +blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book +of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de +Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat +moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine +it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll +give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de +smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and +not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky +mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I +heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful, +and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is +expended." + +And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while +we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be +drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true +representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four +long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such +utter ignorance. + +Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been +"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The +Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.--The conclusion. + + +Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont. +Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last +Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of +what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the +storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At +Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a +couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed +to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and +Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first +person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before +she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come +to meet me, Mrs. Euber?" + +"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago." + +After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr. +Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the +previous week. + +"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received +your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a +great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you +didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up." + +Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him, +promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found +he had not eaten them all--which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called +on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I +learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook +my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey +home, and find your dear mother well!" + +"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing +better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch +acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we +meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are +stored away for future reference, in quiet hours. + +Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the +thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my +indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over +level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed +over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed +their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said +good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont. + +Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at +Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri +river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car +where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and +watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all +those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have +returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of +Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged +gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross +the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be +careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the +shore." + +"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the +boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall +into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed +with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom--but +we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy +shores of Iowa. + +Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going--of my visit at +Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family--dear old friends of my +grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield, +Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow +me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there. + +July 30, 5:30 P.M. "Will you tell me, please, when we cross the +Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we crossed +the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the window and +shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the hills and +valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I thought +there was an air of home in the breezes. + +The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at +Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the +depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months +ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I +gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright +expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves +as bright as these I gather? + +Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear +old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return +again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall +the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and +esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent +people it holds within its arms. + +As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in +a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I +have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months' +stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot +have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the +little groggeries and make those who _will_ have it, pay the highest +price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a homestead. + +"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too +dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and +wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do +they? + +"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B. +over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants +of the car. + +"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other. + +"At the ---- (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve +a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any +good." + +"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down +to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where +everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose +those young dandies are "Oil Princes"--"Coal Oil Johnnies," you +know--and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for +their fun. + +When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels +as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew +my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take +the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in +waiting and only one carriage. + +"Go to the ----, lady?" + +"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the +ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge, +past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open +saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an +eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm +and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I +guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an +elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my +imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that +He had brought me safely so near home. + +"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning. + +"Seventy-five cents." + +I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please +take fifty?" + +"Why?" + +"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel." + +"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents +on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not +help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several +little extras I had met with had taken about all. + +I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him +at the breakfast table. + +August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of +rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size, +but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to +you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of +snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that +glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig +and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I +wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and +how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere +else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the +great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the +many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark." +They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond +description. + +Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for +DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then +out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of +trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard +Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is +dumped down in wild confusion here--mountains and valleys, hills and +hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones, +trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed +with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters +and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations, +but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of +derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills--but now we are 17 +miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is +the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment +to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302 +feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of +silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever +again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I +feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the +honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle," +never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and +exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!" + +It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience +the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks +at either side, and the cars run very slow. + +One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen +excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great +valley--its noble trees untouched--and allow it to forever remain as +one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures. + +Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful +mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500 +feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond +description, so are the mountains. + +J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the +plains and stood upon the mountain peaks." + +To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but +enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the +plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His +children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged +mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the +most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union. + +Arrived at DuBois 5 P.M. This road has only been in use since in June, +and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to see the +trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand, +and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood Francis +watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but when he +recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on before to +tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I reached the +"wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, and were +not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! and the new moon +looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were glad, happy days, +but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a few days. Norval to +go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home. + +"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your +wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting: + +"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking +than when she went away," Maggie said. + +August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home, +through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land, +the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and +we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat +from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I +thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a +mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world. + +While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a +shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and +something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help +comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little +western town. + +Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we +go, until we cross Little Mahoning--bless its bright waters!--and once +more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town--the snuggest, dearest +little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I +wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles +farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays +aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau," +and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the +gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its +rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip +through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase +Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and +her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the +meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me. + +"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't +leave you soon again!" + +Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the +house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we +frightened Emma and Harry into a cry. + +I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she +strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the +friends. + +Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear +mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries, +and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how +good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at +my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep. + +Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see +and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel" +was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit +Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May, +shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed--but +where is Will? + +"Out at the oats field?" + +"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see +him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back +field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go +through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down +goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!" + +As we trudge down the hill, I said: + +"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your +farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a +scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state." + +"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will +endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they +could go along I would like to try life in the West." + +Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book +out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when +mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed +look: + +"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some +huckleberries for supper." + +Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put +aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the +huckleberries are gathered. + +Seated again-- + +"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while +Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while +I make a corn cutter." + +Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father? + +There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand +that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia. + +"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly +turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then, +"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn +cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it +be a time of peace." + +I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the +latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt +Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly +turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my +sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on +the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover +puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr +to kisses--I mean baby kisses? + +Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came +the apples--golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown. +And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I +finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The +cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and +although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the +thermometer says 20 deg. below, yet all I have to do is to take up a +cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the +slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all +over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and +mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone +Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though +I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks. +Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the +"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day +lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of +faith and trust. + +So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for +the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left +Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along +this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary +winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet +piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan +Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave +Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I +will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We +approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge, +about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the +whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The +river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet +deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225 +feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch +only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing +quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the +bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south +we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the +train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again. +Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and +see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more +favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly +by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I +am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of +the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet +of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our +view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can +do justice to Niagara Falls. + +I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or +leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil +is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy. + +A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New +York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected +farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit +river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only +see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to +the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not +get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday +morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five +days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some +of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the +people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good +old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of +the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of +vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering +up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought, +Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and +earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln +Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright +day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the +panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything +about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to +corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look +for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that +I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among +the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked +upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the +artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday +morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the +Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over +the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go +over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I +left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road +that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land +in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the +Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is +night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view. +Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it +is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the +Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln, +arriving there at 12 M. March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's again +just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and my +welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home +with them during my stay in Lincoln. + +My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr. +Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms +satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year +from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book +began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of +it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of +hard labor. + +How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work, +kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of +discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying: + +"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the +labor it involves." + +"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work +cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden +in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all +through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put +it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at +the last." + +"Did He forsake me," do you ask? + +"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in +Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their +name down without hesitation. + +"What security do you want of me?" I asked. + +"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book." + +"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many +prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands +would be reached out to me." + +"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so +keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged." + +I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it +to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his +confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness +such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach. + +_Friday, May 9th._ I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my dear +aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father +spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome +me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was +afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the +water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said: +"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just +now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me +this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of +sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84 +with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue. + +"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up +to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror +of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth. + +The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the +sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the +leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other +May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my +May-day in the old familiar places. + +Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford, +and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction, +friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I +thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish." + +And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in _my_ "Diary +of a Minister's Wife," I bid you GOOD-BYE. + + [Illustration: + + FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R. + AND CONNECTIONS, TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.] + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. 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