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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 ***
+
+Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected
+without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have
+been retained as printed. Words printed in italics are noted with
+underscores: _italics_.
+
+
+
+
+TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+
+
+BY
+
+A Pennsylvania Girl.
+
+THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT TRUTH
+IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS,
+WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG
+JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO
+
+_The Author_,
+
+FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON.
+
+
+LINCOLN, NEB.
+JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS,
+1884.
+
+
+
+
+A WORD TO THE READER.
+
+
+If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual
+Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and
+triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and
+valleys, read Chapter I.
+
+Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, Chapter II.
+
+Of the great Platte valley, Chapter III.
+
+Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, Chapter IV.
+
+Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and
+liquor laws, and Capital, Chapter V.
+
+If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the
+world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, Chapter VI.
+
+
+And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand _just
+why_ this little book--if such it may be called, came to be written.
+We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a
+Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it
+more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown
+in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned
+lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give
+everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch
+upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a
+stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the
+state from Dakota to Kansas--306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the
+U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the
+state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip
+and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you
+read ONLY TRUTH.
+
+My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement;
+and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My
+parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing
+the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and
+rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882,
+and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was
+anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my
+youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself--claimants
+must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I
+promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and
+intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one
+years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the
+pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus
+far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch,
+sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not
+deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet
+I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many
+times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him
+in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry,
+would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered
+with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was
+ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his
+was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the
+power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well
+arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far
+north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go
+there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they
+wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they
+would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably
+detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple
+of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could
+depend for care it was decided that I should go.
+
+When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a
+"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as
+a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like
+fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I
+never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines
+were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and
+features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows:
+
+A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The
+squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good,
+sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true,
+who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from
+death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians.
+
+The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from
+his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the
+old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a
+better life in a new home."
+
+Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or
+locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack
+mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I
+had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to
+my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had
+written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story
+would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack
+in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book.
+
+Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross?
+and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done?
+
+"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book
+in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes
+lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned
+from books, and then the book will be--only a little pamphlet after all.
+
+
+
+
+THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford,
+Pa., in Northern Nebraska--A Description of the Country in which
+they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha
+Valleys--Their First Summer's Work and Harvest.
+
+
+True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to
+begin this with words of love of our own native land,--the state of all
+that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest
+to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one
+vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams
+abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a
+peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to
+become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union.
+
+Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain
+ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of
+golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil
+that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told--affording her children
+the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in
+until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go
+out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new
+homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers
+lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony
+for all mankind."
+
+Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a
+pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by
+Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and
+west branches of the Tunagwant--or Big Cove--Creek, and hid away from
+the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in
+1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the
+valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was
+transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and
+selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth,
+until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and,
+forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that
+has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in
+all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class
+money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told
+from a member of the Standard Oil Company.
+
+Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass
+quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes,
+with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free,
+social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be
+suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and
+operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live
+for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time
+and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of
+living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to
+carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune
+sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only
+for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the
+valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work
+of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are
+yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show
+innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks
+rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a
+feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged
+hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly
+burning, which livens the darkest night.
+
+Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and
+like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning.
+Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and
+spent their money even more lavishingly than it came--so often counting
+on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing
+and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil,
+when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from
+territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to
+reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then
+new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured
+many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the
+deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new
+fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000
+inhabitants.
+
+Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And
+to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great
+excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not
+only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with
+the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing
+their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil.
+
+Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their _all_;
+dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would
+sell and realize a fortune in a few hours.
+
+Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the
+wealth the day would bring.
+
+What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day
+advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the
+"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top.
+So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and
+happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny,
+and often more than their own were swept.
+
+Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they
+had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces
+there, but faces that were _green_ with despair. This was only one
+day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is
+"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But
+when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it.
+
+Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at
+last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the
+country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The
+Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of
+Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A
+colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received
+so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in
+attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week
+after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they
+numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the
+year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws.
+Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed
+must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee;
+but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of
+which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray
+expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and
+lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public
+buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots--a business and
+residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of
+remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within
+a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of
+spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage.
+Also the keeping of gambling houses."
+
+On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered
+seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location.
+
+The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear
+their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in
+northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general
+wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of
+Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed,
+and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian
+reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the
+choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where
+nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of
+many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after
+many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was
+arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and
+Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April
+appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists.
+
+We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains
+of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when
+anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high
+for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager
+pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and
+landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where?
+
+We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only
+those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold
+kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize
+what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty,
+and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would
+bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of
+the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can
+know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some
+of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county,
+chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to
+Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making
+and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than
+when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more
+substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or
+monopoly.
+
+The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done,
+homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many
+sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday
+morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but
+it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the
+going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those
+left behind.
+
+And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the
+exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and
+joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were
+companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye"
+hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving
+those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father
+and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left
+behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by
+long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long
+letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home.
+
+One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the
+hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they
+as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying
+all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all
+just to keep back the sobs and tears.
+
+Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated
+many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must
+go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load
+of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping
+of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we
+were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle
+westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we
+received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left
+behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure
+snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is
+heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears
+until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity,
+even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it
+seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking
+back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled
+with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the
+cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of
+hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among
+the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of.
+
+But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and
+busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging
+everything for comfort sake.
+
+This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends,
+which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one
+bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil
+and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home?
+
+Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a
+number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow
+them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all
+the good things a lunch basket can be stored with.
+
+When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua,
+now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom
+people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most
+popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles
+wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville,
+we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to
+speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would
+call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose
+their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we
+rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the
+childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball
+so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the
+last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would
+slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of
+Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points,
+we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all
+sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony
+babe.
+
+Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad
+farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and
+jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed
+to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the
+children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the
+racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing
+Cleveland--leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city
+and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight
+hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn
+with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears,
+such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind
+lines I then had written:
+
+ Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers,
+ Your loveliness we'll strew
+ From Washington to Cleveland's soil,
+ The funeral cortege through.
+ In that loved land that gave him birth
+ We lay him down to rest,
+ 'Tis but his mangled form alone,
+ His soul is with the blest.
+ Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist
+ With many a falling tear,
+ A mist is over all this land
+ For him we loved most dear.
+
+ "Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing;
+ In mournful strains and slow,
+ While in the tomb we gently lay,
+ Our martyred Garfield low.
+
+Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but
+rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take
+up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled
+down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may
+be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who
+never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we
+leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting
+hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr.
+Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee
+pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's
+generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup,
+until he is now rinsing the grounds.
+
+Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain
+would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word
+we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than
+all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest
+comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand
+almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains
+and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since
+childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first
+loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind.
+'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a
+better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the
+same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of
+the world.
+
+When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were
+surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white
+sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill
+to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant
+to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large
+and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were
+quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of
+the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area,
+24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88
+miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled
+in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we
+bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on,
+with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only
+to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago.
+
+The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a
+decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around
+by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing
+his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but
+little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house,
+which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The
+Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats,
+being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It
+made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were
+anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of
+humanity.
+
+I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not
+sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R.,
+and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty
+flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands
+and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of
+Illinois--rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or
+stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing
+everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board,
+barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing
+green.
+
+The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far
+apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors.
+
+Crossed the Mississippi river about four P.M., and when mid-way over
+was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and about a mile
+in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off the old grass,
+which was a novel sight to us.
+
+Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark
+just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see.
+
+Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more
+like a delegation from "Blackville"--from the soot and cinder-dirt--than
+a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a
+camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three
+o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by
+moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into
+the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East
+miss the rough, rugged hills of home!
+
+The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,--as one remarked, "not from
+behind a hill, but right out of the ground"--ushering in another
+beautiful day.
+
+At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to
+see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer
+boats--three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was
+leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull
+lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and
+have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we
+never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore
+in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but
+"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand.
+Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not
+use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of
+a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point,
+the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned.
+When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had
+a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east
+to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level
+lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for
+the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet
+we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within.
+Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no
+other home.
+
+To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who
+would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it
+certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us
+who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not
+expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more
+devoted to the old home than before.
+
+We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they
+had not helped to bear us on their bosom to--we did not know what. How
+little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no
+rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters."
+Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the
+waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the
+world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out
+on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on
+just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores
+that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the
+voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and
+thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be
+more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast
+adrift upon the sea of _our_ life; and though they may be tempest
+tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost.
+
+When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and
+switched on to Nebraska's _terra firma_.
+
+Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place,
+but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered
+westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger
+agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he
+fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he
+represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of
+Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had
+just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for
+"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many
+were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we
+flattered ourselves that we _did_ well sustain the old family
+honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded
+Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in
+which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us.
+Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you
+all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm
+and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a
+day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at
+a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather
+half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was
+sung out, and we were on with the rest--to go calling and visit with
+our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the
+monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of
+the cars.
+
+One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string;
+mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt
+I was going only to soon leave them--they to scatter over the plains,
+and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a
+mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received
+a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down
+the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we
+had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as
+they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play.
+
+Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we
+reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from
+the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He
+received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed
+in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days'
+journey.
+
+Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the
+claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly
+had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with
+him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again.
+
+I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already
+be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead
+grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire,
+and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground--it has the same
+rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west
+we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and
+sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us
+when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and
+what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of
+fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses
+far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses.
+
+We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw
+this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who
+had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the
+prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his
+luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped
+at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be
+cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of
+"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but
+were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the
+car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I
+hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west?
+I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our
+tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with
+the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were
+not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of
+such an act.
+
+About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station,
+Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors
+locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our
+first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our
+coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a
+good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and
+could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a
+comfortable resting place for the night.
+
+We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air
+of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like
+birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their
+nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists
+expected to find their nests of homes.
+
+But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark
+that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had
+to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the
+songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a
+mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader,
+the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took
+right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after
+the smoke had cleared away, looked--and--well--we missed paper and
+pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown
+that followed.
+
+A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of
+Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind
+of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost
+among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and
+stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to
+breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to
+note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote
+down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will
+sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until
+breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something--I didn't
+know what, but full of curiosity went to see.
+
+A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that
+arrived last night?"
+
+"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is."
+
+"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time."
+
+"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky."
+
+It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming
+implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went
+to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as
+ox-plows were concerned.
+
+What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey,
+and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast
+before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made
+an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if
+the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on
+to--reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole
+truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of
+the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey
+better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do
+you think of a climate like that?
+
+But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales,
+and in reality we had only eaten--I mean we had only gained one and a
+half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper
+were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity.
+
+When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there
+trying to sleep.
+
+"Home-sick?" we asked.
+
+"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night."
+
+No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home.
+
+First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the
+depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location.
+
+The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad
+through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to
+secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being
+claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the
+morrow.
+
+The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be
+seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the
+evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above
+his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with
+the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening.
+
+_Saturday morning._ Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the men
+started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and
+ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded
+with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who
+were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away.
+
+But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was
+the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that
+western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers
+of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town.
+But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and
+wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival.
+Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to
+anxious ones in the East.
+
+In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie,
+about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the
+river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely
+turned already and didn't know the town I had just left.
+
+The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and
+is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water
+is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook
+and line, spears and seine are used instead.
+
+Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked,
+yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there
+is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the
+streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops,
+and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,--cross
+I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know
+what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear
+what Prof. Aughey says:
+
+"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state.
+It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley
+widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and
+often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river
+approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into
+the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its
+course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall,
+and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable
+manufacturing region."
+
+We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we
+made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not
+have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the
+water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while
+the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some
+places its bed.
+
+Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it
+quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high;
+plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white;
+roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of
+the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had
+a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and
+walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out.
+
+The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a
+frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the
+shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the
+bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened
+with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it
+down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves
+the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at
+first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many
+inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water
+from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is
+easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water.
+
+The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight.
+But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you,
+forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills
+fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly
+sod, dot the surrounding country.
+
+_Monday, 30th._ Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little sunshine.
+For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought and found a
+very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John Skirving, of
+whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought his family
+from Jefferson City, Iowa.
+
+_Tuesday._ A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes through
+everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters in camp
+near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with nothing
+but their tent for shelter.
+
+_Wednesday._ About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have
+snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine
+rain.
+
+Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at
+home.
+
+_Thursday._ And still it rains and blows!
+
+_Friday._ A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I got out
+of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther west,
+and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to me I
+scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down and
+quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed in
+the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I
+hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing
+had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise
+than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to
+make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that
+I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I
+had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half
+expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared
+away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so
+dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that
+the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon
+dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty
+dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day.
+
+_Saturday._ Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The majority
+in good heart and looking well despite the weather and exposure they
+have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few are
+discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere.
+
+They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still
+farther northwest--some going as far west as Holt creek, and so
+scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a
+disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the
+same church and school would serve them all.
+
+Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily,
+through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the
+colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been
+claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located
+more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more
+deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was
+purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be
+a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top,
+which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the
+wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and
+hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again,
+and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers.
+
+Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles
+in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and
+then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office
+and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there
+was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend
+the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim,
+hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see
+a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his.
+
+Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it.
+
+_Sunday, 6 May._ Bright and warm. Would not have known there had
+been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely
+dried, and walking pleasant.
+
+A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon,
+and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the
+Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it
+quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even
+here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our
+attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going,
+and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on
+this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly.
+
+The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness:
+"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn
+valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their
+presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be
+sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with
+thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him
+we can look for care and protection at all times.
+
+In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on
+temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people,
+as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in
+"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from
+"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the
+same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we
+had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare
+to think how far we were from its shelter.
+
+But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his
+love is just the same the wide world over.
+
+_Monday._ Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the
+location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but
+themselves to care for, have started.
+
+_Tuesday._ Rains. Folks disappointed.
+
+_Wednesday._ Rains and blows. Discouraging.
+
+_Thursday._ Blows and rains. _Very_ discouraging.
+
+The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season.
+Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in
+some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard
+frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the
+colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in
+comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know
+where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build
+their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their
+families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I
+cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I
+am greatly in sympathy with them.
+
+With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I
+feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes."
+Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the
+land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I
+am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds
+with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson
+county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me
+some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I
+have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every
+kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home;
+in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give
+every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on
+my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own
+care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I
+trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and
+protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while
+I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew
+before--though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my
+appetite, as well as the climate--yet every one experiences an increase
+of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called
+"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft
+beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his
+complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the
+eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and
+wherever it found him.
+
+_Friday._ Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off.
+
+It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a
+prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at
+night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The
+prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields
+of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow
+the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen
+some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter
+upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so
+long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to
+drive their cattle out to the "divides,"--hills between rivers--to
+pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on
+them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch
+a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her
+pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to
+scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have
+also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with
+the good.
+
+During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants
+keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara
+country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great
+hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every
+worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top.
+Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon,
+which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole
+in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with
+them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are
+generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the
+wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking,
+overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often
+patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and
+children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the
+rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that
+look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show
+they have had a good living where they came from.
+
+Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good
+education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright
+little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from
+Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving
+Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the
+country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon,
+spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her
+husband attended to several valuable Texas horses.
+
+Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three
+weeks."
+
+"How can you travel through such weather?"
+
+"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the
+rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down."
+
+"Never get sick?"
+
+"No."
+
+"Not even a cold?"
+
+"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started."
+
+"How many miles can you go in a day?"
+
+"We average about twenty."
+
+The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look
+healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of
+people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go
+whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure
+we owe the opening up of the western country.
+
+_Saturday morning._ Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared off
+nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All
+getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr.
+Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of
+oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the
+majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so,
+much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and
+left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double
+bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last
+week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by
+Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years.
+
+Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S.
+gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to
+bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off
+the currants.
+
+Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska
+behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I
+think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along.
+Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the
+wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool.
+
+Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and
+as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under
+the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them
+with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well
+trained by the time we reach the end of our journey.
+
+"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far
+we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We
+are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows
+running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road
+running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart,
+but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I
+see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and
+make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to
+pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt.
+The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another.
+
+Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile
+stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation,
+not even Stuart to be seen from this point.
+
+Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look
+out and perhaps I will find one.
+
+Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be
+a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it.
+Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right
+are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles
+away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves.
+
+The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the--oxen of
+about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy
+walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles,
+wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had
+tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new
+homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying
+supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo
+stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which
+gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its
+protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery
+and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time!
+
+Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real
+little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called,
+but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear
+water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland
+in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks _are_ sweeter for singing
+to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their foam,"
+and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to the many
+that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on the
+hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had reigned
+within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the walls
+falling.
+
+Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as
+the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for
+your sake, reader.
+
+Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that
+stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite
+new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother
+their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at
+least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie
+is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children!
+
+Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of
+the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back
+memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly
+written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims."
+All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put
+forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an
+undertaking for me.
+
+"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!"
+
+"Is what?"
+
+"Why, that stick for a whip-handle."
+
+I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had
+seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it.
+
+The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night
+at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to
+the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of
+way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am
+not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with
+travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady,
+though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we
+are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the
+few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen
+all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no
+bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and
+will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just
+shut my eyes until we are on the other side.
+
+There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to
+secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not
+disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite
+crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the
+setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of
+the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast
+this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the
+Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing
+most interesting.
+
+Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my
+barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name
+it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48°,
+think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair
+ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out.
+
+One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the
+banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and
+bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen,
+almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses
+the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock
+that juts out of the hill--first stone or rock seen since we entered
+the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man
+coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the
+hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help
+you gentlemen, but that off-horse is _terribly weak_. The other horse
+is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak that
+off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. While
+we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough to
+learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he was
+lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly who
+have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men push,
+but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. The men
+debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and carry them
+up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my
+suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk
+with, "That's it--only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and
+a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men,
+while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to
+go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble.
+
+When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk,
+as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill,
+across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with
+a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a
+narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond
+willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie
+schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very
+good harbor for these ships of the west.
+
+"What kind of a shanty is this?"
+
+"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't
+think worth while to light up in the evening."
+
+On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I
+can scarcely take another step.
+
+"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open
+door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered
+about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus."
+
+"No, just across the river where you see that light."
+
+Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel
+about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and _so glad_ to get to _somewhere_.
+
+Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly
+after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his
+hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here
+before dark.
+
+Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr.
+Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa.
+
+"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband.
+
+"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs.
+M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon.
+Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But
+Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take
+them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to
+all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good
+supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get
+laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new
+apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod
+roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on
+the floor, while the family occupies the old part.
+
+About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of
+the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently
+pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general
+uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of
+the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping
+into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said,
+"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer
+shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log
+house, 14×16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen,
+dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture,
+without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the
+family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and
+son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this
+old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the
+comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and
+dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened.
+The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men
+have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the
+house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the
+ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing
+over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking
+badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in.
+Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection.
+
+Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone
+Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion,
+but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm,
+so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled.
+
+The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing
+machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with
+carpet and rubber coats.
+
+How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and
+meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river--hope it is meat cast
+adrift for some hungry traveler--and some one has used my loaf for a
+cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So
+I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free
+from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted
+experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way.
+Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while
+the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and
+prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and
+went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons.
+
+The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the
+_hotel_ where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the shelter
+we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their wagons,
+and wonder where the rest of our party are.
+
+The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters
+makes us even more homesick.
+
+"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every
+thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I
+_do wish_ it would stop!" "When _will_ it clear off?" "Does it _always_
+rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of times, only to
+cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving sixteen souls
+crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. Just how was
+a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. Reader, I wish
+you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me by the stove, I
+then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you ever read Mark
+Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, there are a few
+_innocents abroad_, just now, _roughing it_ to their hearts' content.
+
+The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down
+crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some
+blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick,
+sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores.
+Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker--there, I knew she would rock on Mr.
+Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double
+up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a
+better chance.
+
+If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might
+perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be
+dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and
+then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do
+pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself
+fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a
+chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on
+two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie,
+you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers.
+
+Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before
+the stove, and list--he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me.
+
+Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a
+pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots
+and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that
+than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden
+pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if
+he doesn't stop nodding so far back.
+
+Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more
+words of Kathrina.
+
+Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the
+bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and
+crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been
+driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog,
+give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then;
+casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep,
+because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather
+scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of
+these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these
+sleepers must be kept warm.
+
+Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet
+and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does
+weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small
+as the unoccupied space, that's all.
+
+Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my
+eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the
+oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do?
+To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the
+floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get
+up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I
+leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that
+"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just
+as they can, mostly. So
+
+ All cuddled up together,
+ In a little weenty heap,
+ I double up my pillow
+ And laugh myself to sleep.
+ I know you will not blame me
+ If I dream of home so bright--
+ I'll see you in the morning
+ So now a kind "good night".
+
+As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt
+further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little
+bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is
+seeking rest for to-night.
+
+"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for
+breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep
+longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't
+always slept on a table?
+
+I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning,
+could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were
+sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are
+surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in
+almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension
+table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the
+dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this
+chapter.
+
+Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever
+regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge,"
+and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights'
+lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought
+they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor,
+to sleep.
+
+_Monday morning._ Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start
+about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies
+ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push
+them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight.
+
+But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in
+the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in
+the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on
+over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to
+snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head
+well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to
+start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the
+trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all
+sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking
+and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and
+pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try
+hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this
+bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I
+pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only
+variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a
+tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for
+several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost
+trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both
+of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that
+neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two
+squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces
+looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their
+situation.
+
+The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground
+soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near
+where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared
+their lands, the country took on a better appearance.
+
+The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that
+look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and
+very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if
+possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept
+up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How
+much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were
+ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a
+plow, and asked no more questions.
+
+"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross
+with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a
+signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open
+arms."
+
+And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married
+brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner.
+After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to
+the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara
+and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four P.M.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home
+until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us
+feel quite at home.
+
+Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well
+supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent"
+to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely:
+
+ "The sweetest songs are never sung;
+ The fairest pictures never hung;
+ The fondest hopes are never told--
+ They are the heart's most cherished gold."
+
+They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer,
+when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois
+City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L.
+added her beautiful children's stories.
+
+He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them,
+and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization.
+How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to
+read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists?
+
+_Tuesday, 15th of May_, dawned without a cloud, and how bright
+everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor
+backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change
+from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my
+May day, but the story is a long one--too long for the pages of my
+little book.
+
+And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to
+gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the
+hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of
+the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans,
+and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs
+were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were
+of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited
+the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful
+place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite
+homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every
+color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the
+Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success,
+after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house
+where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which,
+Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte,
+twelve miles west.
+
+Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close
+to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past
+the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss
+Minn to join our maying party.
+
+The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's
+growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with
+blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as
+they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered
+trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the
+valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most
+of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands
+alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20
+acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is
+covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of
+a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they
+are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others
+that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the
+touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had
+been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a
+shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but
+those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists;
+tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country
+were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and
+wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden
+treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a
+moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of
+dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I
+felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day,
+and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars,"
+for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will
+allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different.
+
+We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know
+where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite
+distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war
+whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the
+north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained
+from this elevated point was grand.
+
+A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the
+north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the
+water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs
+extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong
+to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but
+without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or
+rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance
+is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim
+takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a
+plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me
+the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's
+and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the
+sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone,
+to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel
+lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our
+many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in
+places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of
+spring?
+
+But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton,
+your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western
+girls would think of such a thing!"
+
+"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It
+was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th
+of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens,
+gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or
+have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the
+difference in the years to me.
+
+No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and
+the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of
+an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring
+in bloom, and I could not but gather of all--even the tiniest.
+
+The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and
+remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the
+previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not
+so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over
+the serious illness of a loved sister.
+
+I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers
+with tear-dimmed eyes--sister May was dead, and everywhere it was
+desolate.
+
+'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we
+gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen.
+
+In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy
+mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and
+miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that
+almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright.
+
+Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and
+shared them with May, by laying them on her grave.
+
+To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I
+celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost
+untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the
+favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks
+where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will
+gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so
+lonely thinking of their daughter so far away.
+
+The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle--sister
+Maggie's oldest child--who came to me for a May-flower in '76.
+
+But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was
+growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to
+gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love.
+
+Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears
+that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown,
+for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to
+me.
+
+"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live _good_ lives and yet not make the
+_most_ of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good and
+useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good and
+useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of the
+hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and
+prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now
+budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner."
+
+After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will
+be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone
+Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious
+mementos of our May-day in Nebraska.
+
+Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"--the
+term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance,
+and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a
+neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately
+come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the
+life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I
+tell these little things that those who do not already know, may
+understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere.
+
+Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie
+ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or _minnie_ in
+the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor
+woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a
+word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and
+then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright,
+pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a
+new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright
+and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a
+drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a
+half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least,
+the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky
+complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black
+braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears.
+Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could
+not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her
+face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus
+she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their _tepee_.
+The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two
+apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove,
+table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed
+covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen
+except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The
+furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and
+neatness I had not expected.
+
+The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to
+smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then
+drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf
+tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought,
+it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege
+lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband
+laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her.
+She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the
+lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left
+feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who
+would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor;
+labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw
+is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by
+those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by
+the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians
+are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing
+every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice,
+coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week.
+
+Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have
+no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as
+Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why
+not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the
+white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or
+die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to
+adopt!
+
+We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no
+one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better.
+
+When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in
+the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You
+don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led
+the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built,
+so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting
+to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag
+carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by
+being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had
+the partition been finished.
+
+The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were
+cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and
+looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected
+without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with
+my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare
+your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I
+long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for
+society."
+
+Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right
+out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience.
+
+I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and
+experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by
+friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs.
+W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known
+the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes
+overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost.
+Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock
+raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of
+their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and
+during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod,
+but of lumber.
+
+"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling
+here will help it so much, and now we will stay."
+
+Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing
+she had a taste for the beautiful.
+
+After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made
+our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the
+buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked
+like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a
+prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground
+homes.
+
+Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his
+house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to
+frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn
+toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more.
+
+Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six
+of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had
+joined them.
+
+The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we
+finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun,
+suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and
+where?
+
+Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to
+many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska.
+
+The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept
+hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms,
+and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want
+the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross
+over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs
+of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the
+colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well
+filled with weather stayed emigrants.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not
+come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday
+night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When
+daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along
+the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river
+and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the
+journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies
+dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned
+his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left
+Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with
+sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found
+for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C.
+
+Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned
+that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter
+prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what
+you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not
+expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country
+just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find
+the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would
+not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged
+when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt
+for your motto, "What _others_ have done _I_ can do." Allow me to give
+you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any of the
+colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the disadvantages
+of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April of '79 I came
+to this country to look up a home where I could have good cattle range.
+When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs crosswise to
+look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further west, but
+returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help of a young
+man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was under roof.
+While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made garden. We
+then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and came back
+in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two months' supply
+of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than Keya Paha,
+thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, was about
+the nearest house.
+
+"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon
+had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his
+reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail,
+that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to
+come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose
+reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number
+together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the
+government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat,
+and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is
+worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is
+strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them
+right on the war-path.
+
+"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made
+Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from
+Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time
+it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a
+distance of about sixty miles.
+
+"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school
+house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister
+(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha."
+
+Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of
+firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s
+father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower
+part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many
+a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of
+satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give
+them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on
+reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters
+have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without
+meeting a soul on the way.
+
+"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The
+Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid
+of them."
+
+It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to
+"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door.
+
+Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about
+seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr
+oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have
+over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell.
+
+Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and
+brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us
+took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent;
+went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of
+an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From
+the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet
+strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful
+frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's
+dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his
+blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower
+limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down.
+
+When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their
+meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant
+plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind
+of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with
+needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding
+their finger ends than was Mr. Clark.
+
+"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked.
+
+"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from
+drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about
+all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away,
+I can tell you."
+
+We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson
+from their experience--never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't
+hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it
+takes good strong material to stand the wind.
+
+In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the
+prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is
+indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving
+grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave
+great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new
+growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was
+not burnt.
+
+Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same
+time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive
+nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say,
+burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass
+roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy
+soil.
+
+These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees.
+Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often
+planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato
+patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To
+prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a
+supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of
+course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has
+passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a
+cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you.
+
+_Monday, 21st._ Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn
+planting.
+
+
+A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED.
+
+As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to
+be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be
+interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to,
+so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned
+and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that
+closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their
+broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on
+which cattle are grazing--that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo"
+(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as
+the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only
+to now and then take a stroll over it.
+
+The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half
+a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and
+then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called
+table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing
+line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth,
+where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here,
+thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet
+deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says
+"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the
+water is clear and pleasant to the taste.
+
+The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on
+the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and
+from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich.
+The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there
+are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak,
+elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in
+the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums,
+choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one
+has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size
+and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead
+of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom
+so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in
+great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines
+that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes"
+of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry,
+which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little
+white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a
+foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not
+choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they
+are pleasant to the taste and refreshing.
+
+Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black
+currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the
+snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are
+starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said
+to be equally as good as the poled hops of home.
+
+"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs.
+K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the
+buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum,
+and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in
+clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from
+the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in
+color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters,
+and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It
+belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as
+ordinary beans and eaten--if at starvation point. Of the other flowers
+gathered mention was made on my May-day.
+
+Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is
+easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet
+not very hard.
+
+About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other
+half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen
+inches to two feet deep.
+
+I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by
+those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are.
+"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing
+country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted
+with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far
+from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad
+nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be
+long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free
+from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in
+Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow
+tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want;
+no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we
+will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us
+to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little
+alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"--to
+scatter over--and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere.
+
+Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden
+and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all
+they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the
+building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber
+culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in
+cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly.
+
+There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in
+stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see
+it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a
+general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers
+will tell the story of its worth.
+
+I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I
+hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of
+an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so
+interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read.
+
+But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding
+away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down
+to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was
+anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy
+poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof
+for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have
+during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer
+nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while
+of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a
+dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and
+surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real
+to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man
+who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their
+herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as
+he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a
+half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma.
+I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?"
+
+"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was
+before I came west."
+
+The room was about 10×12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and
+part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made
+when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they
+lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on.
+
+To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude--so far
+removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the
+stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only
+retreats for the night.
+
+We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the
+Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and
+wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course,
+or else I am turned all wrong.
+
+_Tuesday._ Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to
+regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together,
+going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with
+a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh!
+I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she
+talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble
+monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no
+doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could
+do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under.
+
+Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and
+gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I
+felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as
+much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible.
+
+We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to
+Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K.
+and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been
+forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And
+Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted
+on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and
+improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a
+kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them
+all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and
+soon the little group of friends were left behind.
+
+I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to
+part from them?--Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people
+all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with
+them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the
+spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that
+the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our
+good plans could not be carried out.
+
+It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with
+eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even
+had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a
+nice settlement of people.
+
+The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance
+to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all
+together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just
+where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are
+only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many
+acres.
+
+One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no
+good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the
+unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose
+wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for
+the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over
+the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The
+tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses
+to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken.
+
+We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and
+the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may
+learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow
+and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up
+between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod
+with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you
+plant the next hill--I mean hole--of corn.
+
+One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and
+not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania
+roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of
+them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at
+last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry
+home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the
+prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles
+away up here!
+
+Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized
+sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as
+though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out
+or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and
+now the sea has all gone to grass.
+
+Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that
+I may have a better view.
+
+"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been
+made?"
+
+"Why, by the action of the wind and water."
+
+"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense
+scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape,
+size, and depth."
+
+Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren
+of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well
+filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar.
+
+Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on
+the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me
+for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and
+when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to
+some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way,
+I will take another ride behind oxen.
+
+Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for
+stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the
+maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those
+who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did
+not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle
+were stolen without personal regard for the owner.
+
+But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some
+time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still
+committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who
+feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose
+their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter
+from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses
+stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their
+favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's
+bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid
+me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more
+of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about?
+
+But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of
+other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and
+quite inviting after our long ride.
+
+After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or
+_Running Water_. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by,
+as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it
+empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it
+enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide;
+but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps
+in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses
+its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the
+Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a
+pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a
+couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my
+satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset
+picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for
+memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow
+stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered
+with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years
+ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river
+bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed
+heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills,
+and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their
+toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by
+this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack
+"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying:
+
+"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get
+near it."
+
+It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to
+settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the
+colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the
+land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame
+of the colony will people this country by many times the number of
+actual settlers it itself will bring.
+
+Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I
+attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet
+hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara,
+and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on
+toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful
+valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide,
+but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an
+interesting picture.
+
+There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side
+of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land
+on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are
+persuaded to test it.
+
+The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north
+side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more
+than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have
+sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call
+the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also
+the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink
+flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny
+flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only
+the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening,
+and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was
+not; but the leaves convinced me.
+
+I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the
+flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem
+to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the
+sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be
+found about Stuart when I left.
+
+We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and--"Oh, horror! Mr.
+Newell, look out for the red-skins!"
+
+"Where, Miss Fulton, where?"
+
+"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire
+to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some
+sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian
+blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare
+me scalp."
+
+Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for
+the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in
+suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first
+chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake
+you up.
+
+But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a
+prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted
+a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying
+to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a
+mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the
+bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as
+though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the
+"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies
+traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and
+all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of
+worldly goods along.
+
+They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation
+is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up
+government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good
+homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the
+land for the claiming of it.
+
+The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I
+have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am
+not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty
+welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner."
+
+
+THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST.
+
+It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier,
+and not tell more of them.
+
+I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one
+whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and
+energy, I quote:
+
+ "BREWER, P.O. BROWN CO., NEB.,
+
+ "December 23, '83.
+
+ "Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better
+ satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done
+ better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled)
+ per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger
+ vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40,
+ wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first
+ year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it
+ costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and
+ windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at
+ the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use,
+ a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the
+ chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight
+ feet.
+
+ "There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They
+ charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs,
+ sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two
+ and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make
+ the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own
+ hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam."
+
+ "The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in
+ the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September,
+ and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the
+ colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for
+ my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will."
+
+From another:
+
+ "We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have
+ some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are
+ going to have a reunion 16 February."
+
+ "BREWER, Jan., 8.
+
+ "You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been
+ getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th
+ December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since
+ Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken
+ around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of
+ years to have schools and plenty of neighbors."
+
+Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no
+sickness reported from climating.
+
+I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is
+a good country for the few of us that came."
+
+I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the
+little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that
+have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the
+horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have
+been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and
+lodging a greater number in jail.
+
+It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to
+rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace
+and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all
+things good!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri
+Valley.--A visit to Ft. Niobrara.
+
+
+I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. &
+P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from
+Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about.
+Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr.
+Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by
+sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the
+Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not
+give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of
+the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that
+neighborhood making it their head-quarters.
+
+I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for
+ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday
+evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me
+for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we
+availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by
+daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who
+busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck
+and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain
+with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and
+that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no
+nothing but prairie.
+
+There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be
+going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we
+all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent
+braces himself against the stove, and I--well I just shake and laugh.
+It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the
+agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face
+and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that
+his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last
+Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara
+and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't
+know when to be thankful, do they?
+
+Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and
+not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that
+of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is
+prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems
+quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade
+again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her
+head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't
+shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the
+country.
+
+Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer.
+
+The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills
+or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine,
+where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them
+of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to
+meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a
+walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees
+that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen
+from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made
+haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it
+was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see
+more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular
+passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening
+was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested
+upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the
+company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home
+where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I
+am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has
+repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say:
+
+"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody."
+
+The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll"
+folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is
+silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful
+hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from
+home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think.
+
+To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to
+Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and
+the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my
+coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the
+depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately.
+
+But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and
+protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I
+trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said:
+
+"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has
+always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know
+He will not forsake me now."
+
+Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence,
+says:
+
+"Well, I believe I will go, after all."
+
+"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the
+depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just
+rising.
+
+The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until
+our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and
+spend Sunday at Long Pine.
+
+I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat,
+fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman
+back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman
+across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old
+mother!
+
+"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there--well, I scarcely know what that
+is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair
+of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But
+while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a
+great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved,
+it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you
+see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of
+gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat
+in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our
+background.
+
+Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes
+up, and the fatherly old gent rouses.
+
+"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he
+asked.
+
+"I am a member of the colony," I replied.
+
+"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they
+getting along?"
+
+I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as
+lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial introductions.
+But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves us with a
+pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be J. Wesley
+Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at Valentine, but
+says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, and tells
+stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The thoughtful man is
+Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, who will spend
+his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, and this is his
+first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister that has been bold
+enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; "Is the colony
+supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our mission talks of
+sending one to them if they would wish it."
+
+"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching,
+as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination
+is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no
+church and no school house nearer than three miles."
+
+"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the
+people together."
+
+I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and
+their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to
+Valentine, and remarked:
+
+"I gathered some very interesting history from----"
+
+"Well if you believe all old ---- tells you, you may just believe
+everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured
+a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and
+listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter
+recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random,
+not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in
+testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about
+their ears."
+
+"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to
+Valentine," I asked.
+
+"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort
+sake, "no danger of you getting shot, _unless_ by _mere accident_. They
+are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never known to insult a
+lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when they are on a
+spree, they are as _wild_ as _wild_ can be;" with an ominous shake of
+his head.
+
+"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?"
+
+"Can't say, indeed; _hope not_."
+
+"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he
+could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his
+hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and
+baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one
+lodged that came through the house.
+
+After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car
+to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement
+than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the
+most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card
+with:
+
+"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the
+Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your
+courage."
+
+I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake _Tribune_,
+Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked:
+
+"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be
+able to do them as much good as others of more experience could."
+
+I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would
+be among them. Mrs. P. whispered:
+
+"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?"
+
+"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing
+us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after
+sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn
+much of Valentine, I know all I care to now."
+
+The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy--I
+could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he
+wore--changed the subject with:
+
+"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no
+alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this
+railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many
+a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a
+good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these
+sand hills then as there is now."
+
+Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked:
+
+"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through
+all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look
+old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks
+all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home."
+
+Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression;
+and I have been judging you so harshly.
+
+"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to
+thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a
+good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is
+there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the
+old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in
+heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an
+evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and
+protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far
+beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers
+a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while
+remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in
+fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless
+auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in
+prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and
+goodness, I go and feel I am not _alone_. Had it not been for my
+faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey;
+but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your
+stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look
+down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest
+to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would
+write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had
+written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of
+Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr.
+Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So
+gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not
+care to sleep, for--
+
+ Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet,
+ To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep.
+
+Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the
+Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company.
+
+It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were
+so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills
+glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of
+silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me
+from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating
+along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as
+though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was
+eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to
+waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and
+put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a
+greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but
+more interesting from its plainer view.
+
+It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country
+as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door
+of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level
+grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and
+sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely
+anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries,
+white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath
+the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly
+bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when
+"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to
+"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went
+to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50
+cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the
+depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four
+passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered
+about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from
+it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the
+bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon
+door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs.
+P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself
+close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a
+protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at
+first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a
+resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all
+quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder.
+Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and
+soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I
+would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down
+stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the
+fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man,
+with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to
+him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and
+some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed
+with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of
+revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine
+looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than
+of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an
+improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy
+in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long
+at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a
+better life.
+
+Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened
+expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home.
+
+One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his
+head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face
+I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general
+favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going
+away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know
+how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number.
+I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone,
+excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to
+read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your
+sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so
+often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a
+wild misspent life.
+
+As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not
+think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store
+and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot.
+Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear
+banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but
+was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to
+walk about and see the town.
+
+The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what
+looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray
+rocks and pine trees.
+
+It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost
+perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or
+Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the
+Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that
+it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained
+of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of
+it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the
+Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited
+sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about
+100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is
+broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their
+steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing
+in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small
+amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile
+wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a
+time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which
+are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an
+interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a
+pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which
+they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags
+are lost to view in their own wanderings."
+
+Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was
+but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the
+town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from
+Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand
+banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy
+homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and
+two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the
+Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and
+number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land
+office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land
+of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about
+twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is
+not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very
+long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known.
+
+About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and
+returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left
+there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade
+Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest
+wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant,
+which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in.
+
+From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be
+but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that
+direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he
+would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better
+view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and
+then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte
+that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around
+it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed,
+and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over
+Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even
+extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any
+information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that
+afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians.
+
+The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that
+was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see
+a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"--a block house with
+loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort
+Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses,
+most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square.
+The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large,
+handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings,
+chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc.
+Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and
+reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the
+officers and privates.
+
+The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under
+restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is
+punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods,
+a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the
+buildings are the stables--one for the gray and another for the sorrel
+horses--about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules.
+
+The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small
+trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly
+termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the
+driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that
+it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to
+duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at
+a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are
+boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for
+driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received
+fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their
+wives there--and but few are allowed that privilege--do so with the
+understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for
+the soldiers in return for their own keeping.
+
+After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the
+chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were
+kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon
+called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D.
+entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never
+was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time
+in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of
+interest about me, and my time so limited.
+
+Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly
+consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I
+quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the
+bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out
+of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes.
+
+Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we
+were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs
+that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand
+and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the
+cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched
+the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys
+in one company, and sorrels in another.
+
+There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a
+post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of
+the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could
+not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of
+soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000
+Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so
+disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be
+retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole
+keeper and support--"Uncle Sam."
+
+We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest
+praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad,
+as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my
+own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he
+spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of
+brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn,
+known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a
+brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good
+soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent
+death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man
+and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is
+interesting, I will briefly repeat it:
+
+Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for
+believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and
+rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became
+known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long
+after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort,
+and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took
+with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they
+had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock
+fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot
+by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to
+let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the
+confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians,
+who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies
+under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They
+followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under
+arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not
+allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life--a poor
+return for such a one as he had taken.
+
+He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this
+the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker
+of his life.
+
+When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail
+was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians
+were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let
+Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when
+Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the
+agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted
+Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the
+wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely
+followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave
+himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but
+has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort
+Pierre.
+
+The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant.
+
+While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to
+return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3
+o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he
+immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a
+half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And
+bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our
+way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange
+beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short,
+yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train
+left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough
+looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established
+by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train.
+The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of
+ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on
+us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we
+wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine.
+So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a
+gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a
+couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the
+train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a
+greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked:
+
+"Do mules ever run off?"
+
+"Sometimes they do."
+
+"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?"
+
+"No, I guess not."
+
+And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long
+lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train
+on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government
+mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not
+add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the
+very worst of mules.
+
+Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off,
+and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and
+then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half
+miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he
+helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train.
+
+Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood--chips
+from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of
+our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet
+as in the morning.
+
+I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr.
+T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs,
+which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large
+cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground.
+They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the
+settling up of the country.
+
+Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th
+meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river.
+
+When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the
+man whom I thought must be a pony boy.
+
+"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to
+travel in only a baggage car!"
+
+"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back,
+and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go."
+
+Mr. T. remarked:
+
+"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own
+company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the
+train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I
+will speak to the conductor in your behalf.
+
+The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor
+and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that
+I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least
+discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt
+very much alone.
+
+"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I
+sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I
+sang--just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and
+songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man
+think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then
+to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way,
+and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was
+always answered in the most respectful manner.
+
+I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a
+sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any
+one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and
+whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely."
+
+Well, all I got written was:
+
+Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy
+roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high;
+river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through
+a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom.
+Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the
+cuts.
+
+THATCHER, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the train from
+their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8×10 deserted store-house
+almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, Vegetables, and Eggs,"
+out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' worth have been sold.
+Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin fruit cans are strewn
+all around.
+
+To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level
+grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told,
+are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now.
+
+ARABIA, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look.
+
+WOOD LAKE, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some one
+has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is
+scarcely a house to be seen.
+
+JOHNSTOWN, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking on a
+better appearance--farm houses dotting the country in every direction.
+Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty little town,
+a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place again.
+
+Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach
+Long Pine about six o'clock.
+
+Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I
+have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises
+and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence.
+Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use
+of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the
+stranger for thinking so wrongly of him.
+
+Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth:
+
+Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J.
+Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie,
+fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south,
+and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has
+one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber
+yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one
+restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all
+to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a
+membership of thirteen.
+
+I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of
+seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its
+growth since then.
+
+Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been
+decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated
+portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the
+people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question.
+Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight
+Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all
+foreigners that go west.
+
+"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number
+of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the
+result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation
+months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house.
+
+"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A
+bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth.
+There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river,
+yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand
+acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a
+continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken.
+The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and
+the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance.
+Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre.
+
+"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are
+still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this
+place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter
+for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough
+for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass.
+
+"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts.
+The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will
+give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its
+merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per
+acre; potatoes, weighing 3-1/2 pounds, and 400 bushels per acre;
+cabbage, 22 pounds----"
+
+This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so
+favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort
+Niobrara, that he disposed of his _Tribune_ office, and returned,
+and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken,
+and located at Ainsworth.
+
+I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of
+later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's
+stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking.
+
+You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in
+preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services
+in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One
+saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the
+saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but
+did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the
+stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet
+with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who
+join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt
+there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry
+(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many
+of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are
+runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting
+stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and
+the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who
+remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer
+in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are
+spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for
+a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in
+looking."
+
+
+LONG PINE.
+
+After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek
+of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery
+and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there
+could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of
+nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired
+early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this
+hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests
+the better for its absence.
+
+The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long
+Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself
+started early for the bridge.
+
+It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it
+is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view
+by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine
+trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the
+table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among
+the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct
+springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream
+below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep
+pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away,
+and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs,
+and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara.
+We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can
+south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the
+trees loftier.
+
+It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to
+grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge
+and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross
+the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and
+branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the
+springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on
+a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water,
+and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view
+the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so
+romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's
+winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up
+by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on
+until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold
+wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering
+Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow
+pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge
+and beyond we went, following down the stream.
+
+Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so
+grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania
+hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from
+twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand
+and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials,
+and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs.
+
+Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the
+pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back
+from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear
+conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no
+less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too,
+preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever
+since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post
+until the end.
+
+But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where
+a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H.
+stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon
+a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of
+the distance that lay between me and home came before me.
+
+"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought,
+but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that
+is all powerful in every hour and need.
+
+Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come
+from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native
+state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large
+double log house on the banks of the Pine--a very pretty spot they
+claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and
+said:
+
+"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go
+to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see
+some one from home, it would almost cure me!"
+
+It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh,
+Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us
+of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black
+Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the
+few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath
+School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a
+neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had
+been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering.
+And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call.
+
+We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their
+home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not
+allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and
+promised to spend Monday with them.
+
+We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E.
+services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas.
+
+_Monday_--Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the
+Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of
+all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are
+leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek,
+"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs
+are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these
+cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size.
+
+Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and
+"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a
+wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was
+explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in
+the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her
+trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word,
+"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only
+did our duty."
+
+We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was
+so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can
+and will care for his children when they call upon him.
+
+
+MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY.
+
+"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the
+spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health,
+but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the
+Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched
+our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where
+Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days,
+when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the
+other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves
+that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after
+asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little
+house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and
+perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the
+river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards.
+
+The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the
+Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the
+ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the
+men, left as soon as his duty was performed.
+
+About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of
+Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to
+Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented
+that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of
+which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife
+strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself--and at that time
+sick--signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to
+sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them.
+
+He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far
+until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding
+him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead.
+
+This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the
+shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our
+tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison
+house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by
+a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with
+crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their
+leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other,
+with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render
+him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a
+worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and
+would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our
+tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put
+his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the
+hill and entreated those who came to turn back.
+
+When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon
+came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we
+were not again disturbed.
+
+Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha
+for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest
+but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the
+tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the
+long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant
+action.
+
+Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for
+fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply
+of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the
+man, and morning came and found him still living.
+
+Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that
+our children were safe.
+
+Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he
+very badly needed.
+
+After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men,
+friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of
+Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were
+his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with
+their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as
+guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver.
+
+Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him
+to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when
+they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to
+land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I
+was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on
+to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we
+had pursued.
+
+The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles
+away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to
+depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated
+through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if
+Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and
+warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save
+ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take
+whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that
+our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we
+had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with
+us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come
+again, and urged me to go with her to her home.
+
+"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you _must not_ leave me!" and then the
+thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her own life
+for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone.
+
+When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could
+not refrain from singing,
+
+ "Through this changing world below,
+ Lead me gently, gently, as I go;
+ Trusting Thee, I cannot stray,
+ I can never, never lose my way."
+
+And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over
+the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came
+upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst
+you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper,
+"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against
+thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but
+greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though
+surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R.
+came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home
+she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own
+safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all
+dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain.
+
+Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the
+appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting
+and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday.
+
+On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a
+prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do
+hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for
+he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old.
+
+(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of
+his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all
+his bad deeds behind.)
+
+Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death
+blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we
+did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton.
+
+We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles
+further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five
+hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only
+remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we
+could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the
+frontier again.
+
+In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never
+experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for
+a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they
+would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their
+revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was
+done to assure me that I was safe at their hands.
+
+
+I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I
+repeat only truth.
+
+And now to her collection of curiosities--but can only mention a few:
+One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two
+feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed
+the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they
+left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had
+been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of
+which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in
+circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the
+point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white,
+and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered
+from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors.
+As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to
+a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did
+not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking.
+
+It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But
+what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our
+guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me
+with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities.
+
+There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be
+persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet
+had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the
+beaver with only their four front teeth.
+
+The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine,
+cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of
+a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal
+of lumber.
+
+Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he
+was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in
+April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular
+services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown,
+Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all.
+
+Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing
+between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the
+spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora
+Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak
+and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr.
+S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state,
+and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my
+newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but,
+best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat."
+
+But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the
+beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in
+June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H.
+Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and
+pitched a boarding tent, 14×16, from which they fed the workmen on the
+railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was
+followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now
+there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one
+drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant.
+Population 175.
+
+From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean
+the following:
+
+"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you
+visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put
+up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22×86, ten
+two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of
+both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved
+into their 20×40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second
+story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's
+hardware, where also religious services are regularly held.
+Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree.
+The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is
+proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting
+in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a
+saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine,
+three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing
+pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty
+bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato
+raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured
+twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half
+short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of
+north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast
+disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of
+what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back
+from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles.
+
+"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for
+nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber
+culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded
+lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been
+taken up during the past year.
+
+"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our
+county, and find as follows:
+
+"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters
+to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters.
+Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it
+will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead,
+pre-emption, and timber culture laws.
+
+"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen
+miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across
+the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter."
+
+From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country
+well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county
+is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average
+favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further
+developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be
+a good producing soil."
+
+Water is good and easily obtained.
+
+The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the
+creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around
+on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a
+distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long
+Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery.
+
+The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are
+of a clear, white sand.
+
+But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has
+been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be
+eastward bound.
+
+Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back
+from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on
+the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new
+merchant just opening a store near the colony.
+
+Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so
+pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the
+cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were
+drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he
+and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very
+unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a
+ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better
+life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole
+use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to
+lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift
+given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone
+would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat;
+so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep.
+
+How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs.
+Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back."
+
+Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219
+miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry
+brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to
+themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of
+the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two
+occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first
+train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter
+Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on
+the south.
+
+Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up
+of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new,
+rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first,
+until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere.
+
+But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of
+Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is
+permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then
+the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty.
+
+So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.),
+which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general
+stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm
+implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and
+blacksmith shop, and a bank.
+
+Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was
+visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on
+the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has
+here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of
+April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out
+from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and
+shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the
+story of the first chapter.
+
+Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I
+have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that
+the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very
+appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C."
+
+From The Stuart _Ledger_ we quote: The Methodists have organized
+with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the
+building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev.
+Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson
+is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of
+Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24×42, where over
+60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss
+Mamie Woods. An opera house 22×60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's
+building, 18×24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist,
+and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will
+close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received
+from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24:
+"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two
+months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come
+in their 'schooners.'
+
+"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three
+feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly
+enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December."
+
+But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion";
+of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as
+satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe
+its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape,
+and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets,
+closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth,
+and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your
+satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full
+length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want
+to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and
+was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can
+be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel;
+and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all
+I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists,
+and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing
+"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart.
+
+The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr.
+Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family.
+Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard.
+
+Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the
+following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place:
+"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two
+hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a
+population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine
+month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about
+$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson _Graphic_,
+several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention.
+Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about
+500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county
+during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa,
+though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles
+east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last
+March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday
+school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can
+be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by
+next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily
+obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton."
+
+I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded
+coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114
+miles, to attend Robinson's circus--but shows are a rarity here. The
+light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding
+country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling
+prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there
+settlers' homes with their culture of timber.
+
+O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians,
+and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt
+county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches,
+Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It has
+three papers, The _Frontier_, Holt County _Banner_, both republican,
+and O'Neill _Tribune_, Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a
+mile from the river. Gen. O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha.
+
+Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the
+Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this
+point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was
+completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college
+located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81.
+U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83.
+County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a
+private enterprise by the citizens.
+
+I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also
+given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless
+to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well
+represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will
+bring into a western town.
+
+To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much
+that has already been said of others, and the story of their added
+years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of
+to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further?
+
+The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright,
+new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost
+weaving high.
+
+It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as
+we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties.
+
+That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road
+to Missouri Valley--its starting point--and for this we have Mr. J. R.
+Buchanan for authority.
+
+There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of
+the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in
+1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New
+Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road.
+Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was
+worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population;
+is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the
+vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no
+superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of
+wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn.
+Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre,
+now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00.
+
+The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached
+Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about
+100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad
+was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the
+direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black
+Hills.
+
+As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it
+will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri
+river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the
+channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until
+the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000
+feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments
+built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the
+river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over
+$1,000,000.
+
+But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must
+leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.--A
+description of the great Platte Valley.
+
+
+I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a
+depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to
+putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master
+until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge
+storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to
+remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act
+of kindness shown me already.
+
+At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket
+agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road,
+which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am
+glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed
+at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer.
+Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot."
+
+"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the
+telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could
+not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of
+colonizing on the frontier."
+
+"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have
+been inquiring for you--but you must stop on your return and see the
+beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you."
+
+Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was
+not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were
+thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to
+see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was
+almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden.
+I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded
+westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn.
+
+The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren
+of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is
+lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied
+and much under cultivation.
+
+I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the
+railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its
+amber light, making it a beautiful sight.
+
+Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from
+an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles
+wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and
+hindered all further sight-seeing.
+
+The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out
+of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares,
+"It is just good for him--no business to let the man get his hand on
+his money!"
+
+"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the
+conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat,
+assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the
+old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to
+protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the
+conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss."
+
+I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour
+would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot,
+but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me
+with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!"
+
+We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our
+letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity
+and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found
+Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me.
+
+To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo
+Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and
+trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning
+much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we
+found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a
+long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from
+the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters:
+Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black
+hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color
+and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet
+teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is
+taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but
+delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features
+and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet
+of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young.
+
+It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate
+as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and
+the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void
+the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed
+enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with
+his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has
+always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him.
+
+To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the
+"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the
+following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill."
+
+His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport,
+Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport.
+Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature
+from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at
+Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was
+occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on
+reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to
+California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers
+and Mormons.
+
+Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their
+language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance
+and shoot with bow and arrow.
+
+In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that
+had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery
+man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a
+burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he
+died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for
+burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of
+armed men came to take the life that had just gone out.
+
+Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing
+service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first
+blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl
+sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and
+thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and
+took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him
+from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely
+forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the
+employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty
+being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City
+to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the
+Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of
+the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great
+freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity
+of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train
+consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a
+railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of
+transportation beyond the states.
+
+It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his
+first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a
+party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the
+cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing
+several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from
+the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the
+creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first
+shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young
+as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has
+since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage
+driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government,
+which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very
+best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa
+Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature
+in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his
+exhibitions on the stage.
+
+When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of,
+they just call it buffalo ---- and as a consequence, there are buffalo
+gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss,
+grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when
+he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the
+Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day.
+
+I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the
+country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn
+of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost
+every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta
+and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln
+county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the
+sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte
+rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December,
+1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the
+town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had
+to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars.
+
+North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business
+houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land
+office of the western district embraces the government land of
+Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and
+Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the
+surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as
+stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is
+quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are
+fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but
+those which have been cultivated.
+
+Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of
+the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and
+painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited
+to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door
+six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without
+ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens
+and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were
+discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room,
+thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how
+they would enjoy it.
+
+"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests,
+but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed
+the joke."
+
+Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was
+abandoned four years ago.
+
+Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to
+be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot,
+I left Monday evening for Plum Creek.
+
+How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and
+whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of
+adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about
+their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the
+lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away.
+
+I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the
+east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do
+better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken
+mother.
+
+"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us
+on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester,
+N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave
+lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last
+summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I
+die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for
+the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more
+than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely
+child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'"
+
+Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been
+interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady
+from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how
+they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not
+be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never
+been without a snow-cap since she first saw them.
+
+Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to
+meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we
+preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the
+gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston
+House.
+
+I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania
+about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum
+creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the
+little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming
+Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum
+Creek.
+
+Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to
+Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April,
+1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still
+holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station
+house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he
+built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present
+town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one
+mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile
+further west.
+
+Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County _Pioneer_,
+of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history:
+
+"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the
+organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71,
+at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the
+entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told.
+But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous
+people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated
+March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the
+Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point.
+
+"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs
+affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians.
+
+"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte
+river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was
+celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of
+Columbus.
+
+"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the
+churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their
+religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the
+Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of
+'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the
+county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev.
+Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in
+'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the
+Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian
+congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary.
+
+"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and
+far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska
+colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under
+charge of F. J. Pearson.
+
+"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their
+first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the
+U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses."
+
+I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor _Pioneer_, whom I
+questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained have
+done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther west,
+until there is not many of us left; only about eight families that are
+now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by the
+grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was very
+discouraging."
+
+I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove
+their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be
+driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe.
+
+"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the
+treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of
+light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after
+they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose
+mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal,
+seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west
+of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which
+two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still
+living."
+
+Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel
+in a 16×20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men,
+who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they
+could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is
+now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek.
+
+While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact
+some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked--
+
+"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him
+how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I
+can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?'
+No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married.
+He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take
+you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John
+Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a
+family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania.
+
+The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even
+this opportunity to get to my friends.
+
+Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white
+with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of
+it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the
+bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph
+Butterbaugh--our old neighbor--coming to town, and who was greatly
+surprised, as they had not received my letter.
+
+We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and
+sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces,
+just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along
+the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to
+our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely
+improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others
+where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod
+houses).
+
+Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one
+herd, making it dangerous for travelers.
+
+Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house
+built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any
+lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are
+built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building
+of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then
+built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the
+summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a
+good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for
+sheep.
+
+Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box
+nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and
+receives the mail.
+
+Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad
+land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for
+pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod.
+
+Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8×10 frame, where
+the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for
+holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in.
+
+It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the
+stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon
+us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in
+my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I
+know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily
+sang:
+
+ "I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild,
+ And feel that my mother now thinks of her child,
+ As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door,
+ Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more."
+
+I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined
+by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and
+together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I
+sing with more emphasis than--
+
+ "Oh give me back my native hills,
+ Rough, rugged though they be,
+ No other land, no other clime
+ Is half so dear to me."
+
+But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in
+the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying:
+
+"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and
+sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I
+don't think I have tried to sing it since."
+
+All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I
+thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes
+down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until
+it echoed from bluff to bluff.
+
+But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr.
+A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the
+morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr.
+A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her.
+
+Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with
+me on that morning ride.
+
+Rough?
+
+There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some
+things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt,
+as that horse _tried_ to trot--perhaps it was my poke hat that was
+coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted
+Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot.
+
+When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go
+three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast.
+
+"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow:
+mind, we don't want to be going round many corners."
+
+"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you;
+can you stand another trot?"
+
+And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and
+laugh at my attempt at riding.
+
+It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's
+sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered--"Breakfast
+for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill
+into a "grand gallop."
+
+Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my
+laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the
+door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the
+laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after
+all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one.
+Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the
+river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded
+away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie,
+bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old
+friends.
+
+We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs
+and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the _swing_ very
+much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a
+half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to
+come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To
+peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight
+to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of
+one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the
+Platte river three miles away--the river a mile in width, and the wide
+valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The
+U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the
+trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the
+east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes
+Cozad, Willow Island--almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first
+house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add
+the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83:
+
+Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five
+families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to
+be more than doubled by spring.
+
+But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after
+wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight
+until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills
+and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or
+pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a
+river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and
+are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call
+calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They
+seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed
+with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how æsthetic we have
+grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect--would much
+rather look at the deer tracks.
+
+The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and
+cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all
+taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain
+cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun
+with grape-vines.
+
+Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring
+it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor
+fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower?
+But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown
+doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt
+bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I
+returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very
+deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not
+touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so
+lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it--well, he didn't catch the
+rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun.
+
+_Sunday._ We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and
+Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with
+Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner
+time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen--only a few
+willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected
+from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a
+garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest
+flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms
+same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is
+not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk?
+
+The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the
+widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the
+north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of
+the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water
+is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the
+table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we
+heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?"
+I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a
+boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing
+if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that
+pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves
+of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width,
+and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of
+everything but grass.
+
+The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting
+of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that
+rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the
+North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the
+north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It
+has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and
+rapid--running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and
+changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its
+brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under
+ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican
+river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than
+the Platte.
+
+We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of
+our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound
+train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have
+described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our
+colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought
+large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the
+Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give
+depth of soil and its production, but will add the following:
+
+Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels
+wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30;
+and barley about 40 bushels per acre.
+
+First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of
+December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was
+108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below,
+which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as
+high as 36 above since.
+
+The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. &
+M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R.
+
+In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the
+same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county.
+First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in
+'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list
+shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north
+side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160
+miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in
+'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that
+time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and
+bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a
+canal to utilize the waters of the Platte.
+
+Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that
+hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar,
+maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont,
+named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842
+and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed
+but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and
+silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river
+and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his
+mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large
+and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated
+at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but
+now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches.
+It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must
+add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any
+sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for
+some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near
+the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are
+entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun.
+
+I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along
+the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance
+as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha
+about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had
+breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt
+Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R.
+land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well.
+
+Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha
+Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was
+made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been
+ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska
+shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the
+present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a
+homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was
+founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied
+across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge
+completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the
+first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten
+dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha,
+and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill.
+
+The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected
+for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton,
+Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa
+shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the
+Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to
+make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren
+plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet
+above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water
+tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis.
+It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha
+now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's
+principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient.
+
+I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and
+as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln,
+about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master,
+and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed
+to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington
+House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my
+friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman
+to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and
+that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homoeopathic
+physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners
+live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania.
+But a better thought came--that of the Baptist minister, as they
+attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and
+through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a
+long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your
+friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us
+to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his
+kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin
+Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather
+long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met.
+"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if
+you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile
+walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City
+Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I
+have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find
+the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood
+waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln
+in my walking up and down--at least all I cared to. But the welcome
+"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the
+kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its
+unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I
+was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own
+garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling
+stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing
+but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia
+Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of
+finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie,
+you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in
+Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor."
+
+And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing
+this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska.
+Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty
+miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction,
+in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which
+connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was
+the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is
+4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J.
+W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company
+yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where
+some government land is yet to be had.
+
+A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln,
+Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April
+24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have
+gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in
+unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty
+acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan,
+in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying
+their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land
+within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all
+government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest
+fit only for grazing.
+
+This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on
+Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with
+much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return via
+Hastings.--A description of the Republican and Blue Valleys.--The
+Saratoga of Nebraska.
+
+
+We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making
+point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for
+"Danger"--danger of it biting me or getting away--my prairie dog, which
+had found a home in a barrel.
+
+One evening Cousin Andy said:
+
+"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?"
+
+"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they
+make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that
+reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering
+the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in
+the side told the story.
+
+I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price
+for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a
+Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him.
+
+The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor
+table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found
+him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know
+just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with
+heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but
+by morning the ground would be in good working order.
+
+Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for
+several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county
+field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving
+their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now
+earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation.
+
+When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was
+entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so
+completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob
+Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built
+railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the
+way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in
+the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres,
+and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers
+until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads,
+settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has
+an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon.
+
+I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent
+of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and
+while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the
+third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central
+Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska.
+
+After a few moments conversation, he asked:
+
+"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?"
+
+"Indiana county."
+
+"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is
+dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me
+all kindness and interest.
+
+At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of
+his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same
+kindness and attention that every one does at his hands.
+
+"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern
+Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that
+truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then
+seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends
+and more of the state.
+
+A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face
+was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me
+she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not
+expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last.
+
+Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience:
+I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three
+months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word
+of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my
+young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously
+ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her
+off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that
+she might find her brother better.
+
+The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my
+eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect
+snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression
+from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but
+that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention
+by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold
+and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little
+ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just
+as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look
+as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first
+foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a
+settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely
+together as possible.
+
+I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I
+had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked:
+
+"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?"
+
+"Yes, sir."
+
+"To Mr. Fulton's?"
+
+"Why, yes. You know my friends then?"
+
+"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew
+where you were going."
+
+No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but
+then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are
+different people.
+
+"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed
+at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was
+the one she had expected."
+
+"You know where they live then?"
+
+"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you
+to the house."
+
+With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to
+his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when
+I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous
+week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my
+Uncle's door.
+
+"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around
+me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often.
+
+"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to
+go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought
+you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us
+yesterday."
+
+"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the
+depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just
+when I am given up for good."
+
+Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his
+motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over,
+Aunt said:
+
+"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!"
+
+"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?"
+
+"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?"
+
+"No, not a word."
+
+"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about
+now."
+
+"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then
+I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps
+already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of
+what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God
+in His great loving kindness is sparing us!
+
+I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle
+John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same
+village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the
+year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the
+saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and
+baby Ruth, with malaria fever.
+
+To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs--a
+town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the
+banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great
+volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber--honey locust, elm,
+box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees
+and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches
+in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska,
+and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long.
+
+I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to
+us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just
+as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among
+the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers
+of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says:
+
+"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in
+this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J.
+H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first
+surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were
+Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek
+is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs.
+
+"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among
+us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had
+been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the
+first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the
+Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only
+three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers.
+Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of
+flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them
+quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a
+sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed
+to a post for everybody to use.
+
+"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two
+months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell
+everybody else to come. And come they did--walking, riding in ox
+wagons, and any way at all--until in all there was 150 of us. The
+ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress
+in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the
+dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn
+dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn.
+The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We
+sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers
+with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some
+war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight.
+Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind.
+So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all
+summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow
+bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and--well, that corn
+money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500
+bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as
+this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160
+acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for
+$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000.
+
+"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together
+in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us
+prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle
+to the Otoe Indians on the reservation.
+
+"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor
+pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the
+field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with
+their ponies.
+
+"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from
+Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week
+from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars
+a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody
+went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission
+Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday
+morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80.
+
+"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and
+surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life
+we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted
+me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't
+see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out
+to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how
+much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on
+the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody
+calls me 'Pap Tyler.'"
+
+I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the
+Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom
+of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were
+about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old
+ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not
+that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a
+country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the
+people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated
+man. I marked him--fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the
+state. The programme of the day was as follows:
+
+ SONG--_The Red, White, and Blue_.
+
+ DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE--Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of
+ twelve years.
+
+ SONG--_Night Before the Battle_.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Schools_. Responded to by J. C. Burch.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Railroads_. Rev. J. M. Pryse.
+
+ MUSIC--By the band.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Neighbors_. Rev. E. H. Burrington.
+
+Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and
+with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their
+dinners.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat
+my dinner under the flag with a stain--a rebel flag of eleven stars and
+three stripes--a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast.
+
+In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom
+tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the
+celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works.
+
+
+WYMORE
+
+Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost
+an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the
+spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the
+ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640
+acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here
+sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed.
+
+One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little
+shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built
+homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you
+what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat
+Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall,
+Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of
+their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising
+western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on
+Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The
+heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a
+feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool
+and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon
+almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush,
+or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day."
+
+It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will
+shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake.
+
+The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is
+a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but
+one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and
+south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two
+miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it
+with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary.
+
+Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue
+on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six
+miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another
+creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800,
+on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and
+west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the
+agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at
+the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied.
+
+A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency."
+It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the
+30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a
+"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I
+felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so
+desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting
+posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the
+head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and
+hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little
+ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy
+hunting-ground."
+
+This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other
+tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new
+home in the Indian Territory.
+
+The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in
+places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see
+Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun
+was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska
+breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until
+the stars were shining.
+
+For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw
+working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached
+to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and
+the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans;
+minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking
+these days when it says 100° in the shade, cool, and if you can't take
+them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not
+do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled
+over and broke the bulb.
+
+There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came
+in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a
+cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or
+two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and
+shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner
+of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie
+and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 P.M.
+train, July 5th.
+
+I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all
+crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such
+a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these
+dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as
+though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and
+friends.
+
+Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and
+nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and
+now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy
+meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of
+the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along:
+
+
+ODELL,
+
+A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet
+well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent
+the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the
+Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins
+hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's
+planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with
+bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark
+muddy water that covers the bottom.
+
+
+DILLER,
+
+A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing
+platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and
+grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is
+running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes.
+
+
+INDIAN CREEK.
+
+Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now
+just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill
+killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they
+were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for
+thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly
+defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his
+hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill
+from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer
+used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians,
+and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The
+stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place,
+and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at
+
+
+ENDICOTT,
+
+A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the
+centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing
+through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear
+door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all.
+
+
+REYNOLDS,
+
+A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good
+homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so
+good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the
+hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in
+bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is
+running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why
+Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the
+left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I
+do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence.
+Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor
+looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of
+cattle grazing.
+
+
+HUBBELL.
+
+Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power;
+only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall
+wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county,
+which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of
+Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have
+since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five,
+wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in
+this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in
+hand, and was referred to ---- ---- for information, who asked--
+
+"Are you writing for the _Inter Ocean_?"
+
+"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied.
+
+"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a
+lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their
+publication."
+
+I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work.
+
+We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls
+county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old
+schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking
+since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me
+to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard
+some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand,
+gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just
+beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that
+points its spire heavenward through his labors.
+
+The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all
+the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the
+friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three
+little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the
+beauties of the "Garden of the West."
+
+The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we
+cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling,
+and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land,
+with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The
+prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our
+portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower.
+While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a
+faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier.
+They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves
+sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing.
+
+Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to
+think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these
+great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a
+weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is
+almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make
+one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of
+black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with
+Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some
+years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk
+house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a
+wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs
+when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in
+any direction.
+
+I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky
+waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and
+go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay
+with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one
+who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have
+you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I
+was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I
+_must_ go, and sunset saw me off.
+
+All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge
+I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough--sandy bed and banks,
+trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there
+only in wet weather.
+
+I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles
+north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for
+several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean
+passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks
+of the Republican.
+
+So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will
+know what they are.
+
+
+SUPERIOR
+
+Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The
+Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not
+catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I
+thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not
+understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much
+emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on
+the beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains
+he has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I _just love_
+to go fossiling! Don't you _love_ to go fossiling, Miss?"
+
+"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know
+it is just too _lovely_ for _anything_."
+
+It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern
+people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not
+tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers,
+and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I
+went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next
+morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine
+and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on
+all of the three railroads.
+
+I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have
+always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive,
+and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his
+engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great
+throbbing heart of the Centennial--the Corliss engine, excited my
+admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the
+Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore
+with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and
+all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned
+to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at
+Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a
+ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long
+wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the
+fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the
+window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that
+amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a
+minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my
+impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was
+there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I
+appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola.
+
+"Fourteen miles," was the reply.
+
+Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the
+engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a
+bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and
+let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the
+wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place.
+When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they
+had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen
+minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as
+he did so, asked:
+
+"Well, did they go pretty fast?"
+
+"I don't know, did they?" I replied.
+
+I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at
+McCook.
+
+After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the
+seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the
+railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the
+little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a
+population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks
+of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of
+the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up
+with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place
+I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford,
+Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first
+house was built in June, '82.
+
+I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of
+the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is
+seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the
+appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame
+house, build one that will look well at a distance.
+
+Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried
+from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and
+located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at
+a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook
+_Tribune_, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then
+in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near
+which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed
+through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained
+from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as
+has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained,
+and brick is cheaper than in the east.
+
+From a copy of the Daily _Tribune_, I read a long list of business
+firms and professional cards, and finished with, "_no saloons_."
+
+The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics
+worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given
+the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called
+upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from
+home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the
+east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the
+east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook.
+I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the
+Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She
+told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the
+ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general.
+
+"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found
+in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few
+days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can
+and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an
+engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without
+seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this
+road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness
+that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to
+point out all that was of interest, along the way."
+
+The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops,
+with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken
+claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought
+80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the
+homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough
+to go into stock-raising.
+
+This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western
+part of Hitchcock county.
+
+Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight
+counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The
+40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the
+Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is
+easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well
+sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south.
+These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood,
+and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly
+populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone,
+the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty
+of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and
+will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go.
+
+A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado,
+are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand,
+and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side
+and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by
+the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was.
+
+The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond
+lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does
+not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars
+in all shapes and little islands of green--there it winds to the south
+and is lost to sight--herds of cattle--corn field--river again with
+willow fringed bank--cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand,
+or they would not be there long--river gone again--tall willow
+grove--wire fencing--creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width.
+Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles
+long, and cattle grazing in it--all fenced in until we reach
+
+
+INDIANOLA,
+
+one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was
+surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was
+slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400
+inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses'
+from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and
+school house--great herd of cattle--wilderness of sunflowers turning
+their bright faces to the sun--now nothing but grass--corral made of
+logs--corn and potatoes--out of the old sod into the nice new
+frame--river beautifully wooded--valley about four miles wide from
+bluff to bluff--dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at
+home--board fence.
+
+
+CAMBRIDGE.
+
+Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring
+mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose
+shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple
+shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers.
+
+Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo
+wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good.
+
+
+ARAPAHOE.
+
+Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and
+bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on
+their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern
+point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty
+miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that
+neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are
+two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was
+platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in
+sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them!
+didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in
+very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream
+no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its
+banks. River close; trees--there, it and the trees are both gone south.
+Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain.
+
+
+OXFORD.
+
+Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north;
+town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a
+Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for
+mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and
+cattle, cattle--What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out
+west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan
+county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small
+towns, but will not be so long.
+
+Here we are at
+
+
+ORLEANS.
+
+A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the
+north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before
+me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her
+company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream
+called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which
+the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the
+town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and
+for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their
+right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles
+east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400
+of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county
+seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its
+interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land.
+Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land;
+large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old
+sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt.
+
+
+ALMA.
+
+Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the
+table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the
+county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town.
+
+That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near
+Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the
+interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her
+fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only
+passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove
+the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other
+talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk.
+
+
+REPUBLICAN CITY.
+
+Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400.
+Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would
+be more plenty.
+
+
+NAPONEE.
+
+Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in
+sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery.
+
+BLOOMINGTON--the "Highland City"--the county seat of Franklin county,
+and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful valley,
+nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public buildings,
+and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian churches, a large
+Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, a large creamery,
+and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians are excellent
+judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch of country,
+although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The Pawnees were
+the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I do not wonder
+that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown into a grand
+possession for their white brothers.
+
+I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half
+and use a dash for the rest of the words cor--, pota--, bush--, tre--,
+riv--. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that
+wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a
+good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it
+came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre-- or bus--;
+well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive
+roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the
+river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have
+ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for
+awhile, and just then you haven't.
+
+But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at FRANKLIN, a real
+good solid town. First house built July, 1879. I never can guess how
+many people live in a town by looking at it from a car window. How do I
+know how many there are at work in the creamery, flouring mill, and
+woolen factory? And how many pupils are studying in the Franklin
+Academy, a fine two-story building erected by the Republican Valley
+Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? First term opened Dec.
+6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is $12,000, and they
+propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and seven students have
+been enrolled during the present term. And how many little boys and
+girls in the common school building? or how many are in their nicely
+painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and dug-outs in
+the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of the ground? It
+takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds of houses to
+make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, oats, millet,
+broom corn, and all _sich_--good all the way along this valley.
+
+
+RIVERTON.
+
+A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in
+ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M.
+Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to
+$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great
+fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now;
+there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of
+the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the
+Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it
+brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the
+bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes"
+and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One
+minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as
+though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a
+direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile.
+Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has
+stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed!
+Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles
+away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call
+
+
+RED CLOUD!
+
+Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud,
+I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams
+were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I
+stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad;
+first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that
+hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my
+foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new
+moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the
+Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking
+up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a
+rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last
+came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes
+into a silent prayer:
+
+"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!"
+
+I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage,
+enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me
+into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant
+lady, and soon I was listening to the following story:
+
+"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers,
+and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which
+much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other
+settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several
+settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently
+visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for
+taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people
+stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of
+logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first
+winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in
+the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this
+spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but
+was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on
+the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and
+as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also
+plenty of elk, antelope, and deer.
+
+"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in
+my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes
+polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the
+summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer
+county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72,
+and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe."
+
+The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told
+of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I
+could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he
+is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo
+meat hung to the ceiling, and added:
+
+"I spent many a happy day there."
+
+Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving
+well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a
+dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden
+even by the most humble abode.
+
+The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same
+as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and
+have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's
+children.
+
+When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said:
+
+"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as
+Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness,
+for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in
+the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days
+and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery--her native
+state.
+
+The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing
+the surrounding beauties of their home.
+
+"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years
+ago--fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some
+think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while
+Mrs. G. says:
+
+"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if
+I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in
+the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and
+phaeton to take me to the depot.
+
+Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming
+and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large
+photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more
+of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14×16
+hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out:
+
+"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good
+home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud,
+which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for
+their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over
+sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100
+miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their
+groceries.
+
+As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from
+centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which
+Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had
+made that he paid for in years of service to his country.
+
+When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450
+inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the
+B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster
+county, and surrounded by a rich country--need I add more?
+
+
+AMBOY.
+
+A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with
+bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short.
+
+
+COWLES.
+
+Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to
+be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I
+feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling
+to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another
+how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic
+thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will
+cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he
+wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more
+than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes
+and groves of trees.
+
+
+BLUE HILL.
+
+A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that
+blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy
+life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers
+with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by
+only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and
+smiles upon me even here.
+
+ Bloom, little flower, all the way along,
+ Sing to us travelers your own quiet song,
+ Speak to us softly, gently, and low,
+ Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know?
+
+Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick.
+
+This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it
+so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of
+trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of
+the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist.
+
+
+AYR
+
+Was but a small town, so we go on to HASTINGS, a town of over 5,000
+inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six miles
+west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The B. &
+M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it was not
+a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. Joe &
+Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point in the
+following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W.
+Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors
+of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same year,
+the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, the
+salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the state
+for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is nicely
+built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from fires. I
+notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep here. The
+surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking good.
+
+Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are
+all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all.
+I notice the churches are well attended.
+
+A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and,
+as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better
+my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken
+stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that
+condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I
+cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good
+young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was
+intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any
+one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such
+a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as
+this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he
+passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all
+for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most
+insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is
+Sunday.
+
+
+CRETE.
+
+Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue
+river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant,
+shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy
+retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre
+of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds
+of the N.S.S.A.A.
+
+
+LINCOLN.
+
+Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to
+watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when
+I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking
+through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind
+upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I
+didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he
+had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am
+only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him
+I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for
+me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my
+friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I
+thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had
+a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on.
+After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one
+of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them
+another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as
+they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday.
+
+_Monday._ Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without
+it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your
+baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about
+it."
+
+"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for
+this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had."
+"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would
+replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and
+button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will
+never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never
+replace. No, I _must_ not lose it!" And then I stole away and went
+to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that
+help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and
+as I prayed this lesson came to me--How alarmed I am over the loss of a
+little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when
+so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and
+each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read
+and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things.
+And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten.
+
+I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good,
+nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would
+just take a good cry over it, and--but won't I hug my dusty satchels if
+I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I
+supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for
+me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own.
+
+So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie
+took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the
+nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so
+slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But
+I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a
+minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the
+depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble,
+but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the
+faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I
+turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage,
+little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my
+fan. "Oh dear, I am _so_ glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my
+satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to
+give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting
+attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch
+my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to
+do better.--I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a
+thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the
+Republican valley, and then about my baggage.
+
+"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?"
+
+"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old
+lady, and must go and see to it."
+
+When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both
+gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked:
+
+"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?"
+
+"Nothing; I did not know you had found it."
+
+Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said:
+
+"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to."
+
+"The conductor carried it away."
+
+"Where did he go to?"
+
+"I don't know, Miss."
+
+Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought.
+
+"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had
+followed me. "What's gone?"
+
+"Why, my baggage; it's gone again."
+
+"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in
+here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov.
+Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all
+carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad,
+and a good lesson learned.
+
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at
+Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July
+20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this
+table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under
+the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are
+as follows:
+
+ Pacific Junction to Kearney 196
+
+ Omaha line 17
+
+ Nebraska City to Central City 150
+
+ Nebraska City to Beatrice 92
+
+ Atchison to Columbus 221
+
+ Crete to Red Cloud 150
+
+ Table Rock to Wymore 38
+
+ Hastings to Culbertson 171
+
+ Denver Extension 244
+
+ Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford 77
+
+ Chester to Hebron 12
+
+ DeWitt to West Line 25
+
+ Odell to Washington, Kan. 26
+
+ Nemaha to Salem 18
+
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the
+C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous
+"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between
+Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management,
+tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are
+entirely avoided.
+
+P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at
+the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent,
+while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R.
+Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct
+all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His
+thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having
+spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for
+this office.
+
+
+MILFORD.
+
+"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue"
+river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of
+thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and
+sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr.
+Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I
+was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs.
+Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who
+located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in
+'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by
+the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town
+that afterward grew up about him.
+
+Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made
+very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land
+of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through
+the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers
+and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the
+common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due
+west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr.
+Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is
+now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies.
+Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes
+and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a
+log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A
+saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at
+hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his
+flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none
+other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of
+the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs.
+Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from
+her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were
+competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and
+I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest."
+
+Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a
+broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away
+captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was
+very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it.
+
+In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies
+high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then
+winding down canyon Seata, _little_ canyon, we crossed the River to the
+Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, hickory,
+and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines--one we
+measured being sixteen inches in circumference--while a cottonwood
+measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor
+where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the
+Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its
+shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But
+pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling
+Springs."
+
+Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring
+flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay
+into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes,
+but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened
+rock.
+
+The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine
+for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the
+running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house
+in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in
+'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and
+gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley _Record_."
+Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the "_Congregational News_"
+in '78.
+
+The "Milford _Ozone_" is the leading organ of the day, so named for the
+health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy.
+
+A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as
+postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via
+Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J.
+H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was
+established.
+
+The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a
+large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of
+300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross
+the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a
+view of the new town of EAST MILFORD laid out on an eighty acre plot
+that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It is a
+private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly
+favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of
+the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside
+home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot
+and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet
+found in Nebraska.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL.
+
+
+Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived
+from the Indian _ne_ (water) and _bras_ (shallow), and means shallow
+water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to 208 from
+north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that lie between
+parallels 40° and 43° north latitude, and 18° and 27° west longitude.
+
+The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the
+original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only
+herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854,
+"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made
+it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for
+its motto "_Equality before the Law_."
+
+The governors of Nebraska territory were:
+
+ Francis Burt, 1854.
+ T. B. Cuming, 1854-5.
+ Mark W. Izard, 1855-8.
+ W. A. Richardson, 1858.
+ J. S. Morton, 1858-9.
+ Samuel W. Black, 1859-61.
+ Alvin Saunders, 1861-6.
+ David Butler, 1866-7.
+
+Of the state--
+
+ David Butler, 1867-71.
+ William H. James, 1871-3.
+ Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5.
+ Silas Garber, 1875-9.
+ Albinus Nance, 1879-83.
+ James W. Dawes, 1883.
+
+Allow me to quote from the _Centennial Gazetteer of United States_:
+
+"SURFACE.--Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends along
+the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down toward
+the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. There are
+no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed mountains.
+The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous loam, which
+is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in deeply eroded
+valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest fertility,
+which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, ash, and
+other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. Late surveys
+establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom lands is from
+13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres.
+
+"THE CLIMATE of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of other
+states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The mean
+annual temperature varies from 47° in the northern sections to 57° in
+the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part of
+the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the westerly
+winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress the
+thermometer to 20° and sometimes 30° below zero; while in the summer a
+temperature of 100° and over is not unusual. In the southern tier of
+counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76-1/4°, and of winter,
+30-1/2°. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 inches)
+falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall steadily
+decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the western
+counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the state.
+
+"POPULATION.--Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and in 1870,
+122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, including
+18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population numbered
+30,748.
+
+"EDUCATION.--Nebraska has more organized schools, more school houses,
+and those of a superior character; more money invested in buildings,
+books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the same age.
+The land endowed for the public schools embraces one-eighteenth of the
+entire area of the state--2,623,080 acres." The school lands are sold
+at not less than seven dollars per acre, which will yield a fund of not
+less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from six to ten per cent
+interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. The principal is
+invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished while the
+interest and income alone is used.
+
+The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly
+supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable
+and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in
+Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the
+Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength.
+The Catholic church is fully represented.
+
+The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest
+percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second.
+Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania:
+
+Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write;
+Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write.
+Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891.
+
+Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United
+States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of
+the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at
+the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its
+salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the
+air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low
+temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong,
+cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but
+17°, and of the summer 70°.
+
+I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in
+general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern
+people.
+
+Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not
+accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year--since
+which time there has been rapid developments--will speak volumes for
+the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union.
+
+The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an
+increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828
+in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933
+to 452,542, nearly four-fold.
+
+The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its
+capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a
+population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square
+mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a
+population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would
+have 17,480,000 people.
+
+The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874
+to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per
+year. In 1883 there was raised in the state:
+
+ Wheat 27,481,300.
+ Corn 101,276,000.
+ Oats 21,630,000.
+
+Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has
+prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up
+to Nov. 13, 1883:
+
+ Corn, yield per acre 41 bushels.
+ Quality 85 per cent.
+ Potatoes, Irish 147 bushels.
+ Quality 109 per cent.
+ Potatoes, sweet 114 bushels.
+ Quality 111 per cent.
+ Hay, average tame and wild 2 tons per a.
+ Quality 107 per cent.
+ Sorghum, yield per acre 119 gallons.
+ Grapes, yield and quality 88 per cent.
+ Apples, yield and quality 97 per cent.
+ Pears, yield and quality 52 per cent.
+ Condition of orchards 100 per cent.
+ Spring wheat threshed at date 82 per cent.
+
+Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for
+market, Dec. 1.
+
+In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a
+total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised
+annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and
+250,000 sheep.
+
+The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring
+the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000
+inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into
+the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor
+dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done
+by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence.
+
+During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven
+intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the
+least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the
+state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a
+population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska.
+
+I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women.
+
+"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own
+at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or
+proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall
+come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her
+husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall
+remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage,
+and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for
+his debts.
+
+"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt
+contracted by the wife before marriage."
+
+The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail
+transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two
+years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was
+about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations
+were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft.
+Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.;
+Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers
+left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month;
+carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two
+years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from
+St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in
+sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now
+Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad.
+
+I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising
+people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that
+enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new
+country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after
+while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of
+ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west
+by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a
+strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to
+learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept
+and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear
+great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the
+forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their
+children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has
+furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good
+idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day,
+and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general
+hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska
+could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children.
+
+
+LINCOLN.
+
+In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at
+Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of
+State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and
+locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present
+_capital_ site was chosen--then a wild waste of grasses, where a few
+scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that
+once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster
+post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the
+Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide"
+between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and
+broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public
+buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom
+Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state,
+a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and
+founded a paper town and called it Lancaster.
+
+The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was
+as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the
+state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all
+the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the
+commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the
+summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer,
+which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few
+and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale
+of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he
+received his wages--$300--he remarked that he would not give his pay
+for the whole town site.
+
+The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100
+houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67,
+but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in
+January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was
+realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State
+University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all
+other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold.
+
+The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The
+post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national
+government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were
+reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot
+is a large brick building 183×53 and three stories high, with lunch
+room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room,
+and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices
+on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily
+carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway
+accommodations.
+
+All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were
+given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature,
+which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was
+organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman
+Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69;
+Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A
+number have since been added.
+
+THE STATE JOURNAL CO. On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day following the
+announcement that Lancaster was _the place_ for the capital site there
+appeared in the _Nebraska City Press_ a prospectus for the publication
+of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be called the _Nebraska
+Commonwealth_, C. H. Gere, Editor. But not until the latter part of
+Nov. did it have an established office in the new city. In the spring
+of '69 the _Commonwealth_ was changed to the Nebraska _State Journal_.
+As a daily it was first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B.
+& M.R.R. ran its first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage
+coaches that had been the only means of transportation to the capital.
+In '82 the State Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new
+building on the corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and
+brick, four stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The
+officers are C. H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R.
+Clark, Sec., and H. D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125
+hands. Beside the _Journal_ are the _Democrat_ and _News_, daily; the
+_Nebraska Farmer_, semi-monthly; the _Capital_, weekly; the _Hesperian
+Student_, monthly, published by the students of the University, and the
+_Staats Anzeiger_, a German paper, issued weekly.
+
+On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G
+street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and
+spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But
+Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in
+that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and
+about Lincoln.
+
+Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of
+convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who
+had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act.
+Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready
+to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good
+behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step
+beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all
+the departments--the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where
+brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot
+mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and
+stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at
+the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of
+stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a
+prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4×7 feet, and furnished
+with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to
+write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what
+they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read
+before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom
+are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their
+cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals
+together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives
+and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly
+to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the
+wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation.
+Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each
+other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not
+even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow
+neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until
+seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two
+or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a
+privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general
+hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at
+nine A.M., they are marched in close file to the chapel, where Rev.
+Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and New York,
+gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and Him
+Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian
+doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within
+prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of
+their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's
+daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are
+readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the
+dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his
+services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars,
+the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron
+door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs,
+and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on
+the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left.
+They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to
+see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and
+there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked
+into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I
+have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to
+me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will always
+be watching to see what good men and women you make; great
+philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good
+ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice,
+honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President
+sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your
+name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll
+be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their
+innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised
+to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture
+before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy--a God not only
+to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are
+here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin
+with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched
+drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be
+men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God
+will punish the _cause_, while man calls the effect to account. For my
+part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest drunkard from
+the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest liquor dealer in
+the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he deals out, and
+that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of ruined souls,
+souls for which he will have to answer for before the Great Judge who
+never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt by a jury.
+
+Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt
+we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home.
+
+_Friday._ About two P.M. the sky was suddenly darkened with angry
+looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they grew more
+threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not anxious to
+witness a cyclone, but if one _must_ come, I wanted to watch its
+coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the clouds
+rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and we drove
+out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck of a brick
+building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy fall of
+hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some places.
+This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. [ERRATA.
+Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" read
+"Nebraska is _not_ visited." Third line from bottom leave out the
+word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as some
+suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep over
+some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind that I
+was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather than
+does Pennsylvania.
+
+The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very
+oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature.
+
+_Saturday_ we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and
+drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has
+many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all."
+
+Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine
+view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over
+housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many
+beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120
+feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks,
+five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk
+proper--built of stone, brick, or plank--and the remaining eleven feet
+are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards.
+
+The streets running north and south are numbered from first to
+twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W.
+
+Saturday evening--a beautiful moonlight night--just such a night as
+makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has
+been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the
+mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know
+if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be
+aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because
+I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a
+neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over _after dark_. All saddled,
+Fanny waits at the door, and I must go.
+
+Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back--I'll
+telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am
+told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have
+only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for--but a
+happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start.
+
+ One by one her feet are lifted,
+ One by one she sets them down;
+ Step by step we leave the gatepost,
+ And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle,
+
+when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you
+cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My
+thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey.
+
+Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly.
+But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night,
+and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak--_if I ever reached
+the foot of the mountain_,--that I did not notice that Fanny had
+crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post.
+Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but
+she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg
+him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were
+created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow,
+cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot.
+
+Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie
+Keefer.
+
+"What does it eat?" I asked.
+
+"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all."
+
+I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but
+Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night.
+
+In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was
+asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln.
+Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed
+strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in
+among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and
+cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship.
+They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief,
+requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist
+church, to come and baptise their infants.
+
+I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind,
+but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so
+earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I
+wore an expression of pity instead.
+
+The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and
+seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of
+their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son
+of Africa arose and said:
+
+"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for
+about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And
+Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat
+rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called
+sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit
+by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake
+bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of
+time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my
+time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in
+prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands,
+and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a
+continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the
+prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard.
+One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by
+bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too
+large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while
+she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing,
+if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only
+hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing
+in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it
+was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word
+long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way.
+It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description,
+and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing
+short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was
+very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with
+the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table
+and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride
+and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men
+stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put
+down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could
+not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down,
+and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a
+piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister
+closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander
+would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if
+de Lord am willin, I'll be here too."
+
+A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with
+an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening
+found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes.
+
+Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to
+speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text
+am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua
+commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great
+wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by
+blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book
+of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de
+Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat
+moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine
+it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll
+give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de
+smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and
+not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky
+mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I
+heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful,
+and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is
+expended."
+
+And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while
+we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be
+drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true
+representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four
+long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such
+utter ignorance.
+
+Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been
+"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The
+Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.--The conclusion.
+
+
+Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont.
+Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last
+Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of
+what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the
+storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At
+Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a
+couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed
+to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and
+Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first
+person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before
+she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come
+to meet me, Mrs. Euber?"
+
+"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago."
+
+After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr.
+Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the
+previous week.
+
+"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received
+your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a
+great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you
+didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up."
+
+Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him,
+promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found
+he had not eaten them all--which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called
+on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I
+learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook
+my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey
+home, and find your dear mother well!"
+
+"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing
+better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch
+acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we
+meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are
+stored away for future reference, in quiet hours.
+
+Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the
+thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my
+indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over
+level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed
+over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed
+their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said
+good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont.
+
+Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at
+Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri
+river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car
+where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and
+watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all
+those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have
+returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of
+Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged
+gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross
+the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be
+careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the
+shore."
+
+"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the
+boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall
+into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed
+with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom--but
+we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy
+shores of Iowa.
+
+Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going--of my visit at
+Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family--dear old friends of my
+grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield,
+Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow
+me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there.
+
+July 30, 5:30 P.M. "Will you tell me, please, when we cross the
+Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we crossed
+the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the window and
+shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the hills and
+valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I thought
+there was an air of home in the breezes.
+
+The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at
+Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the
+depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months
+ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I
+gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright
+expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves
+as bright as these I gather?
+
+Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear
+old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return
+again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall
+the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and
+esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent
+people it holds within its arms.
+
+As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in
+a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I
+have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months'
+stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot
+have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the
+little groggeries and make those who _will_ have it, pay the highest
+price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a homestead.
+
+"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too
+dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and
+wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do
+they?
+
+"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B.
+over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants
+of the car.
+
+"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other.
+
+"At the ---- (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve
+a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any
+good."
+
+"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down
+to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where
+everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose
+those young dandies are "Oil Princes"--"Coal Oil Johnnies," you
+know--and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for
+their fun.
+
+When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels
+as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew
+my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take
+the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in
+waiting and only one carriage.
+
+"Go to the ----, lady?"
+
+"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the
+ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge,
+past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open
+saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an
+eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm
+and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I
+guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an
+elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my
+imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that
+He had brought me safely so near home.
+
+"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning.
+
+"Seventy-five cents."
+
+I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please
+take fifty?"
+
+"Why?"
+
+"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel."
+
+"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents
+on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not
+help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several
+little extras I had met with had taken about all.
+
+I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him
+at the breakfast table.
+
+August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of
+rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size,
+but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to
+you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of
+snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that
+glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig
+and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I
+wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and
+how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere
+else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the
+great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the
+many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark."
+They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond
+description.
+
+Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for
+DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then
+out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of
+trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard
+Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is
+dumped down in wild confusion here--mountains and valleys, hills and
+hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones,
+trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed
+with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters
+and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations,
+but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of
+derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills--but now we are 17
+miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is
+the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment
+to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302
+feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of
+silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever
+again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I
+feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the
+honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle,"
+never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and
+exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!"
+
+It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience
+the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks
+at either side, and the cars run very slow.
+
+One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen
+excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great
+valley--its noble trees untouched--and allow it to forever remain as
+one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures.
+
+Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful
+mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500
+feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond
+description, so are the mountains.
+
+J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the
+plains and stood upon the mountain peaks."
+
+To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but
+enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the
+plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His
+children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged
+mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the
+most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union.
+
+Arrived at DuBois 5 P.M. This road has only been in use since in June,
+and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to see the
+trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand,
+and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood Francis
+watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but when he
+recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on before to
+tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I reached the
+"wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, and were
+not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! and the new moon
+looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were glad, happy days,
+but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a few days. Norval to
+go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home.
+
+"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your
+wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting:
+
+"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking
+than when she went away," Maggie said.
+
+August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home,
+through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land,
+the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and
+we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat
+from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I
+thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a
+mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world.
+
+While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a
+shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and
+something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help
+comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little
+western town.
+
+Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we
+go, until we cross Little Mahoning--bless its bright waters!--and once
+more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town--the snuggest, dearest
+little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I
+wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles
+farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays
+aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau,"
+and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the
+gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its
+rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip
+through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase
+Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and
+her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the
+meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me.
+
+"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't
+leave you soon again!"
+
+Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the
+house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we
+frightened Emma and Harry into a cry.
+
+I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she
+strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the
+friends.
+
+Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear
+mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries,
+and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how
+good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at
+my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep.
+
+Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see
+and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel"
+was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit
+Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May,
+shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed--but
+where is Will?
+
+"Out at the oats field?"
+
+"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see
+him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back
+field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go
+through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down
+goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!"
+
+As we trudge down the hill, I said:
+
+"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your
+farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a
+scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state."
+
+"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will
+endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they
+could go along I would like to try life in the West."
+
+Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book
+out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when
+mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed
+look:
+
+"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some
+huckleberries for supper."
+
+Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put
+aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the
+huckleberries are gathered.
+
+Seated again--
+
+"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while
+Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while
+I make a corn cutter."
+
+Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father?
+
+There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand
+that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia.
+
+"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly
+turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then,
+"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn
+cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it
+be a time of peace."
+
+I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the
+latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt
+Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly
+turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my
+sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on
+the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover
+puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr
+to kisses--I mean baby kisses?
+
+Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came
+the apples--golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown.
+And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I
+finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The
+cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and
+although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the
+thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have to do is to take up a
+cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the
+slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all
+over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and
+mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone
+Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though
+I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks.
+Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the
+"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day
+lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of
+faith and trust.
+
+So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for
+the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left
+Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along
+this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary
+winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet
+piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan
+Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave
+Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I
+will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We
+approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge,
+about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the
+whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The
+river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet
+deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225
+feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch
+only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing
+quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the
+bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south
+we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the
+train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again.
+Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and
+see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more
+favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly
+by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I
+am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of
+the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet
+of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our
+view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can
+do justice to Niagara Falls.
+
+I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or
+leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil
+is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy.
+
+A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New
+York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected
+farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit
+river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only
+see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to
+the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not
+get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday
+morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five
+days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some
+of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the
+people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good
+old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of
+the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of
+vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering
+up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought,
+Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and
+earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln
+Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright
+day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the
+panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything
+about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to
+corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look
+for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that
+I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among
+the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked
+upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the
+artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday
+morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the
+Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over
+the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go
+over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I
+left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road
+that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land
+in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the
+Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is
+night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view.
+Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it
+is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the
+Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln,
+arriving there at 12 M. March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's again
+just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and my
+welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home
+with them during my stay in Lincoln.
+
+My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr.
+Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms
+satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year
+from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book
+began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of
+it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of
+hard labor.
+
+How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work,
+kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of
+discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying:
+
+"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the
+labor it involves."
+
+"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work
+cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden
+in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all
+through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put
+it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at
+the last."
+
+"Did He forsake me," do you ask?
+
+"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in
+Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their
+name down without hesitation.
+
+"What security do you want of me?" I asked.
+
+"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book."
+
+"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many
+prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands
+would be reached out to me."
+
+"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so
+keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged."
+
+I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it
+to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his
+confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness
+such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach.
+
+_Friday, May 9th._ I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my dear
+aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father
+spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome
+me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was
+afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the
+water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said:
+"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just
+now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me
+this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of
+sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84
+with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue.
+
+"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up
+to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror
+of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth.
+
+The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the
+sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the
+leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other
+May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my
+May-day in the old familiar places.
+
+Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford,
+and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction,
+friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I
+thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish."
+
+And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in _my_ "Diary
+of a Minister's Wife," I bid you GOOD-BYE.
+
+ [Illustration:
+
+ FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R.
+ AND CONNECTIONS, TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 ***
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+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 ***</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img width="393" height="600" id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover"></div>
+
+
+<h1>
+TO AND THROUGH<br><big>NEBRASKA</big>.
+</h1>
+<br>
+<div class="titlepage">
+<p class="ctrsmall">
+BY
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img width="240" height="28" src="images/001.jpg" alt="A Pennsylvania Girl."></div>
+<br>
+<p class="ctrsmall">
+<span class="smc">THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT</span> TRUTH<br>
+<span class="smc">IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS,<br>
+WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG<br>
+JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO</span>
+</p>
+
+<br>
+<p class="ctrsmall">
+<i>The Author</i>,
+</p>
+<p class="ctr">
+FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON.
+</p>
+
+<br>
+<p class="ctrsmaller">
+LINCOLN, NEB.<br>
+JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS,<br>
+1884.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="med">
+<h2>
+A WORD TO THE READER.
+</h2>
+
+
+<p>
+If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual
+Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and
+triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and
+valleys, read <a href="#I">Chapter I.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, <a href="#II">Chapter II.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of the great Platte valley, <a href="#III">Chapter III.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, <a href="#IV">Chapter IV.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and
+liquor laws, and Capital, <a href="#V">Chapter V.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the
+world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, <a href="#VI">Chapter VI.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand <i>just
+why</i> this little book&#8212;if such it may be called, came to be written.
+We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a
+Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it
+more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown
+in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned
+lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give
+everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch
+upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a
+stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the
+state from Dakota to Kansas&#8212;306 miles on the S.C. &#38; P.R.R., 291 on the
+U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. &#38; M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the
+state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip
+and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you
+read <span class="smc">ONLY TRUTH</span>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement;
+and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My
+parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing
+the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and
+rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882,
+and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was
+anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my
+youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself&#8212;claimants
+must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I
+promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and
+intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one
+years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the
+pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus
+far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch,
+sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not
+deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet
+I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many
+times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him
+in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry,
+would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered
+with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was
+ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his
+was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the
+power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well
+arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far
+north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go
+there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they
+wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they
+would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably
+detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple
+of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could
+depend for care it was decided that I should go.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a
+"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as
+a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like
+fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I
+never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines
+were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and
+features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The
+squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good,
+sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true,
+who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from
+death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from
+his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the
+old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a
+better life in a new home."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or
+locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack
+mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I
+had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to
+my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had
+written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story
+would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack
+in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross?
+and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book
+in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes
+lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned
+from books, and then the book will be&#8212;only a little pamphlet after all.
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="short">
+<p class="booktitle">
+THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="I">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER I.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford, Pa.,
+in Northern Nebraska&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A Description of the Country in
+which they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha
+Valleys&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;Their First Summer's Work and Harvest.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to
+begin this with words of love of our own native land,&#8212;the state of all
+that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest
+to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one
+vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams
+abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a
+peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to
+become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain
+ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of
+golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil
+that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told&#8212;affording her children
+the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in
+until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go
+out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new
+homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers
+lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony
+for all mankind."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a
+pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by
+Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and
+west branches of the Tunagwant&#8212;or Big Cove&#8212;Creek, and hid away from
+the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in
+1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the
+valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was
+transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and
+selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth,
+until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and,
+forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that
+has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in
+all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class
+money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told
+from a member of the Standard Oil Company.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass
+quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes,
+with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free,
+social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be
+suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and
+operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live
+for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time
+and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of
+living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to
+carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune
+sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only
+for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the
+valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work
+of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are
+yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show
+innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks
+rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a
+feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged
+hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly
+burning, which livens the darkest night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and
+like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning.
+Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and
+spent their money even more lavishingly than it came&#8212;so often counting
+on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing
+and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil,
+when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from
+territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to
+reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then
+new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured
+many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the
+deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new
+fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000
+inhabitants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And
+to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great
+excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not
+only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with
+the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing
+their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their <i>all</i>;
+dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would
+sell and realize a fortune in a few hours.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the
+wealth the day would bring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day
+advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the
+"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top.
+So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and
+happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny,
+and often more than their own were swept.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they
+had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces
+there, but faces that were <i>green</i> with despair. This was only one
+day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is
+"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But
+when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at
+last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the
+country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The
+Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of
+Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A
+colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received
+so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in
+attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week
+after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they
+numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the
+year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws.
+Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed
+must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee;
+but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of
+which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray
+expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and
+lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public
+buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots&#8212;a business and
+residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of
+remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within
+a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of
+spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage.
+Also the keeping of gambling houses."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered
+seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear
+their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in
+northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general
+wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of
+Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed,
+and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian
+reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the
+choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where
+nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of
+many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after
+many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was
+arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and
+Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April
+appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains
+of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when
+anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high
+for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager
+pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and
+landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only
+those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold
+kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize
+what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty,
+and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would
+bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of
+the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can
+know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some
+of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county,
+chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to
+Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making
+and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than
+when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more
+substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or
+monopoly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done,
+homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many
+sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday
+morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but
+it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the
+going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those
+left behind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the
+exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and
+joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were
+companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye"
+hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving
+those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father
+and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left
+behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by
+long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long
+letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the
+hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they
+as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying
+all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all
+just to keep back the sobs and tears.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated
+many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must
+go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load
+of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping
+of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we
+were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle
+westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we
+received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left
+behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure
+snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is
+heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears
+until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity,
+even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it
+seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking
+back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled
+with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the
+cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of
+hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among
+the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and
+busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging
+everything for comfort sake.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends,
+which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one
+bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil
+and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a
+number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow
+them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all
+the good things a lunch basket can be stored with.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua,
+now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom
+people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most
+popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles
+wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville,
+we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to
+speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would
+call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose
+their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we
+rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the
+childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball
+so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the
+last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would
+slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of
+Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points,
+we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all
+sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony
+babe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad
+farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and
+jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed
+to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the
+children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the
+racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing
+Cleveland&#8212;leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city
+and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight
+hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn
+with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears,
+such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind
+lines I then had written:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers,</div>
+<div class="i1">Your loveliness we'll strew</div>
+<div>From Washington to Cleveland's soil,</div>
+<div class="i1">The funeral cortege through.</div>
+<div>In that loved land that gave him birth</div>
+<div class="i1">We lay him down to rest,</div>
+<div>'Tis but his mangled form alone,</div>
+<div class="i1">His soul is with the blest.</div>
+<div>Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist</div>
+<div class="i1">With many a falling tear,</div>
+<div>A mist is over all this land</div>
+<div class="i1">For him we loved most dear.</div></div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing;</div>
+<div class="i1">In mournful strains and slow,</div>
+<div>While in the tomb we gently lay,</div>
+<div class="i1">Our martyred Garfield low.</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but
+rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take
+up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled
+down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may
+be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who
+never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we
+leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting
+hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr.
+Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee
+pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's
+generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup,
+until he is now rinsing the grounds.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain
+would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word
+we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than
+all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest
+comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand
+almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains
+and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since
+childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first
+loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind.
+'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a
+better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the
+same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of
+the world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were
+surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white
+sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill
+to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant
+to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large
+and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were
+quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of
+the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area,
+24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88
+miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled
+in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we
+bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on,
+with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only
+to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a
+decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around
+by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing
+his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but
+little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house,
+which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The
+Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats,
+being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It
+made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were
+anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of
+humanity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not
+sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. &#38; P.R.R.,
+and rolled out on the C. &#38; N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty
+flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands
+and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of
+Illinois&#8212;rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or
+stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing
+everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board,
+barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing
+green.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far
+apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Crossed the Mississippi river about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span>, and when
+mid-way over was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and
+about a mile in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off
+the old grass, which was a novel sight to us.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark
+just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more
+like a delegation from "Blackville"&#8212;from the soot and cinder-dirt&#8212;than
+a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a
+camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three
+o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by
+moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into
+the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East
+miss the rough, rugged hills of home!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,&#8212;as one remarked, "not from
+behind a hill, but right out of the ground"&#8212;ushering in another
+beautiful day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to
+see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer
+boats&#8212;three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was
+leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull
+lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and
+have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we
+never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore
+in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but
+"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand.
+Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not
+use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of
+a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point,
+the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned.
+When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had
+a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east
+to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level
+lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for
+the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet
+we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within.
+Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no
+other home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who
+would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it
+certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us
+who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not
+expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more
+devoted to the old home than before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they
+had not helped to bear us on their bosom to&#8212;we did not know what. How
+little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no
+rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters."
+Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the
+waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the
+world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out
+on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on
+just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores
+that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the
+voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and
+thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be
+more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast
+adrift upon the sea of <i>our</i> life; and though they may be tempest
+tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and
+switched on to Nebraska's <i>terra firma</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place,
+but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered
+westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger
+agent of the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he
+fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he
+represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of
+Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had
+just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for
+"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many
+were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we
+flattered ourselves that we <i>did</i> well sustain the old family
+honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded
+Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in
+which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us.
+Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you
+all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm
+and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a
+day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at
+a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather
+half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was
+sung out, and we were on with the rest&#8212;to go calling and visit with
+our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the
+monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of
+the cars.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string;
+mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt
+I was going only to soon leave them&#8212;they to scatter over the plains,
+and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a
+mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received
+a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down
+the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we
+had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as
+they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we
+reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from
+the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. He
+received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed
+in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days'
+journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the
+claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly
+had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with
+him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already
+be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead
+grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire,
+and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground&#8212;it has the same
+rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west
+we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and
+sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us
+when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and
+what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of
+fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses
+far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw
+this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who
+had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the
+prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his
+luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped
+at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be
+cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of
+"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but
+were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the
+car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I
+hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west?
+I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our
+tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with
+the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were
+not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of
+such an act.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station,
+Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors
+locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our
+first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our
+coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a
+good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and
+could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a
+comfortable resting place for the night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air
+of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like
+birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their
+nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists
+expected to find their nests of homes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark
+that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had
+to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the
+songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a
+mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader,
+the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took
+right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after
+the smoke had cleared away, looked&#8212;and&#8212;well&#8212;we missed paper and
+pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown
+that followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of
+Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind
+of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost
+among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and
+stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to
+breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to
+note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote
+down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will
+sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until
+breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something&#8212;I didn't
+know what, but full of curiosity went to see.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that
+arrived last night?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming
+implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went
+to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as
+ox-plows were concerned.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey,
+and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast
+before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made
+an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if
+the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on
+to&#8212;reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole
+truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of
+the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey
+better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do
+you think of a climate like that?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales,
+and in reality we had only eaten&#8212;I mean we had only gained one and a
+half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper
+were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there
+trying to sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Home-sick?" we asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the
+depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad
+through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to
+secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being
+claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the
+morrow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be
+seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the
+evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above
+his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with
+the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday morning.</i> Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the
+men started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and
+ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded
+with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who
+were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was
+the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that
+western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers
+of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town.
+But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and
+wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival.
+Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to
+anxious ones in the East.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie,
+about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the
+river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely
+turned already and didn't know the town I had just left.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and
+is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water
+is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook
+and line, spears and seine are used instead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked,
+yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there
+is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the
+streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops,
+and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,&#8212;cross
+I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know
+what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear
+what Prof. Aughey says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state.
+It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley
+widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and
+often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river
+approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into
+the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its
+course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall,
+and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable
+manufacturing region."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we
+made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not
+have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the
+water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while
+the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some
+places its bed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it
+quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high;
+plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white;
+roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of
+the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had
+a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and
+walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a
+frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the
+shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the
+bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened
+with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it
+down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves
+the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at
+first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many
+inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water
+from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is
+easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight.
+But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you,
+forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills
+fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly
+sod, dot the surrounding country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday, 30th.</i> Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little
+sunshine. For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought
+and found a very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John
+Skirving, of whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought
+his family from Jefferson City, Iowa.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday.</i> A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes
+through everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters
+in camp near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with
+nothing but their tent for shelter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Wednesday.</i> About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have
+snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine
+rain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at
+home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Thursday.</i> And still it rains and blows!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday.</i> A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I
+got out of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther
+west, and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to
+me I scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down
+and quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed
+in the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I
+hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing
+had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise
+than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to
+make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that
+I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I
+had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half
+expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared
+away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so
+dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that
+the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon
+dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty
+dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday.</i> Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The
+majority in good heart and looking well despite the weather and
+exposure they have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few
+are discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still
+farther northwest&#8212;some going as far west as Holt creek, and so
+scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a
+disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the
+same church and school would serve them all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily,
+through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the
+colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been
+claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located
+more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more
+deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was
+purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be
+a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top,
+which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the
+wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and
+hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again,
+and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles
+in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and
+then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office
+and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there
+was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend
+the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim,
+hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see
+a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Sunday, 6 May.</i> Bright and warm. Would not have known there had
+been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely
+dried, and walking pleasant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon,
+and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the
+Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it
+quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even
+here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our
+attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going,
+and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on
+this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness:
+"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn
+valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their
+presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be
+sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with
+thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him
+we can look for care and protection at all times.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on
+temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people,
+as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in
+"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from
+"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the
+same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we
+had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare
+to think how far we were from its shelter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his
+love is just the same the wide world over.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday.</i> Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the
+location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but
+themselves to care for, have started.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday.</i> Rains. Folks disappointed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Wednesday.</i> Rains and blows. Discouraging.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Thursday.</i> Blows and rains. <i>Very</i> discouraging.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season.
+Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in
+some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard
+frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the
+colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in
+comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know
+where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build
+their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their
+families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I
+cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I
+am greatly in sympathy with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I
+feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes."
+Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the
+land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I
+am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds
+with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson
+county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me
+some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I
+have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every
+kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home;
+in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give
+every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on
+my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own
+care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I
+trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and
+protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while
+I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew
+before&#8212;though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my
+appetite, as well as the climate&#8212;yet every one experiences an increase
+of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called
+"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft
+beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his
+complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the
+eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and
+wherever it found him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday.</i> Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a
+prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at
+night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The
+prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields
+of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow
+the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen
+some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter
+upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so
+long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to
+drive their cattle out to the "divides,"&#8212;hills between rivers&#8212;to
+pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on
+them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch
+a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her
+pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to
+scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have
+also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with
+the good.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants
+keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara
+country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great
+hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every
+worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top.
+Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon,
+which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole
+in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with
+them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are
+generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the
+wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking,
+overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often
+patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and
+children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the
+rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that
+look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show
+they have had a good living where they came from.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good
+education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright
+little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from
+Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving
+Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the
+country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon,
+spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her
+husband attended to several valuable Texas horses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three
+weeks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How can you travel through such weather?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the
+rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Never get sick?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not even a cold?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How many miles can you go in a day?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We average about twenty."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look
+healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of
+people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go
+whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure
+we owe the opening up of the western country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday morning.</i> Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared
+off nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All
+getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr.
+Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of
+oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the
+majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so,
+much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and
+left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double
+bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last
+week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by
+Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S.
+gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to
+bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off
+the currants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska
+behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I
+think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along.
+Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the
+wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and
+as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under
+the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them
+with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well
+trained by the time we reach the end of our journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far
+we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We
+are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows
+running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road
+running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart,
+but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I
+see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and
+make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to
+pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt.
+The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile
+stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation,
+not even Stuart to be seen from this point.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look
+out and perhaps I will find one.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be
+a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it.
+Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right
+are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles
+away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the&#8212;oxen of
+about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy
+walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles,
+wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had
+tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new
+homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying
+supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo
+stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which
+gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its
+protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery
+and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real
+little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called,
+but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear
+water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland
+in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks <i>are</i> sweeter for
+singing to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their
+foam," and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to
+the many that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on
+the hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had
+reigned within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the
+walls falling.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as
+the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for
+your sake, reader.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that
+stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite
+new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother
+their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at
+least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie
+is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of
+the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back
+memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly
+written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims."
+All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put
+forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an
+undertaking for me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is what?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, that stick for a whip-handle."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had
+seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night
+at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to
+the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of
+way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am
+not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with
+travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady,
+though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we
+are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the
+few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen
+all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no
+bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and
+will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just
+shut my eyes until we are on the other side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to
+secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not
+disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite
+crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the
+setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of
+the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast
+this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the
+Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing
+most interesting.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my
+barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name
+it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48&#176;,
+think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair
+ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the
+banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and
+bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen,
+almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses
+the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock
+that juts out of the hill&#8212;first stone or rock seen since we entered
+the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man
+coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the
+hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help
+you gentlemen, but that off-horse is <i>terribly weak</i>. The other
+horse is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak
+that off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse.
+While we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough
+to learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he
+was lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly
+who have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men
+push, but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud.
+The men debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and
+carry them up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my
+suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk
+with, "That's it&#8212;only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and
+a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men,
+while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to
+go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk,
+as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill,
+across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with
+a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a
+narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond
+willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie
+schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very
+good harbor for these ships of the west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What kind of a shanty is this?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't
+think worth while to light up in the evening."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I
+can scarcely take another step.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open
+door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered
+about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, just across the river where you see that light."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel
+about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and <i>so glad</i> to get to <i>somewhere</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly
+after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his
+hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here
+before dark.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr.
+Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs.
+M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon.
+Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But
+Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take
+them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to
+all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good
+supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get
+laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new
+apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod
+roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on
+the floor, while the family occupies the old part.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of
+the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently
+pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general
+uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of
+the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping
+into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said,
+"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer
+shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log
+house, 14&#215;16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen,
+dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture,
+without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the
+family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and
+son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this
+old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the
+comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and
+dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened.
+The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men
+have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the
+house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the
+ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing
+over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking
+badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in.
+Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone
+Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion,
+but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm,
+so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing
+machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with
+carpet and rubber coats.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and
+meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river&#8212;hope it is meat cast
+adrift for some hungry traveler&#8212;and some one has used my loaf for a
+cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So
+I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free
+from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted
+experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way.
+Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while
+the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and
+prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and
+went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the
+<i>hotel</i> where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the
+shelter we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their
+wagons, and wonder where the rest of our party are.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters
+makes us even more homesick.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every
+thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I
+<i>do wish</i> it would stop!" "When <i>will</i> it clear off?" "Does
+it <i>always</i> rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of
+times, only to cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving
+sixteen souls crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could.
+Just how was a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question.
+Reader, I wish you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me
+by the stove, I then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you
+ever read Mark Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well,
+there are a few <i>innocents abroad</i>, just now, <i>roughing it</i>
+to their hearts' content.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down
+crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some
+blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick,
+sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores.
+Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker&#8212;there, I knew she would rock on Mr.
+Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double
+up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a
+better chance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might
+perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be
+dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and
+then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do
+pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself
+fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a
+chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on
+two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie,
+you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before
+the stove, and list&#8212;he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a
+pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots
+and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that
+than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden
+pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if
+he doesn't stop nodding so far back.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more
+words of Kathrina.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the
+bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and
+crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been
+driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog,
+give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then;
+casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep,
+because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather
+scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of
+these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these
+sleepers must be kept warm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet
+and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does
+weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small
+as the unoccupied space, that's all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my
+eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the
+oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do?
+To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the
+floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get
+up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I
+leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that
+"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just
+as they can, mostly. So
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>All cuddled up together,</div>
+<div>In a little weenty heap,</div>
+<div>I double up my pillow</div>
+<div>And laugh myself to sleep.</div>
+<div>I know you will not blame me</div>
+<div>If I dream of home so bright&#8212;</div>
+<div>I'll see you in the morning</div>
+<div>So now a kind "good night".</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt
+further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little
+bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is
+seeking rest for to-night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for
+breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep
+longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't
+always slept on a table?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning,
+could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were
+sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are
+surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in
+almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension
+table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the
+dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this
+chapter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever
+regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge,"
+and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights'
+lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought
+they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor,
+to sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday morning.</i> Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start
+about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies
+ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push
+them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in
+the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in
+the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on
+over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to
+snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head
+well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to
+start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the
+trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all
+sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking
+and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and
+pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try
+hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this
+bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I
+pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only
+variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a
+tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for
+several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost
+trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both
+of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that
+neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two
+squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces
+looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their
+situation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground
+soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near
+where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared
+their lands, the country took on a better appearance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that
+look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and
+very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if
+possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept
+up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How
+much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were
+ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a
+plow, and asked no more questions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross
+with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a
+signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open
+arms."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married
+brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner.
+After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to
+the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara
+and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home
+until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us
+feel quite at home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well
+supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent"
+to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"The sweetest songs are never sung;</div>
+<div>The fairest pictures never hung;</div>
+<div>The fondest hopes are never told&#8212;</div>
+<div>They are the heart's most cherished gold."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer,
+when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois
+City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L.
+added her beautiful children's stories.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them,
+and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization.
+How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to
+read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday, 15th of May</i>, dawned without a cloud, and how bright
+everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor
+backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change
+from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my
+May day, but the story is a long one&#8212;too long for the pages of my
+little book.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to
+gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the
+hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of
+the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans,
+and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs
+were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were
+of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited
+the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful
+place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite
+homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every
+color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the
+Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success,
+after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house
+where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which,
+Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte,
+twelve miles west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close
+to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past
+the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss
+Minn to join our maying party.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's
+growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with
+blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as
+they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered
+trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the
+valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most
+of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands
+alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20
+acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is
+covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of
+a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they
+are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others
+that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the
+touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had
+been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a
+shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but
+those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists;
+tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country
+were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and
+wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden
+treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a
+moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of
+dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I
+felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day,
+and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars,"
+for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will
+allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know
+where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite
+distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war
+whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the
+north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained
+from this elevated point was grand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the
+north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the
+water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs
+extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong
+to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but
+without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or
+rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance
+is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim
+takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a
+plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me
+the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's
+and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the
+sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone,
+to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel
+lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our
+many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in
+places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of
+spring?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton,
+your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western
+girls would think of such a thing!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It
+was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th
+of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens,
+gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or
+have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the
+difference in the years to me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and
+the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of
+an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring
+in bloom, and I could not but gather of all&#8212;even the tiniest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and
+remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the
+previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not
+so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over
+the serious illness of a loved sister.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers
+with tear-dimmed eyes&#8212;sister May was dead, and everywhere it was
+desolate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we
+gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy
+mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and
+miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that
+almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and
+shared them with May, by laying them on her grave.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I
+celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost
+untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the
+favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks
+where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will
+gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so
+lonely thinking of their daughter so far away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle&#8212;sister
+Maggie's oldest child&#8212;who came to me for a May-flower in '76.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was
+growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to
+gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears
+that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown,
+for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to
+me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live <i>good</i> lives and yet not make
+the <i>most</i> of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good
+and useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good
+and useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of
+the hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and
+prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now
+budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will
+be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone
+Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious
+mementos of our May-day in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"&#8212;the
+term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance,
+and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a
+neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately
+come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the
+life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I
+tell these little things that those who do not already know, may
+understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie
+ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or <i>minnie</i> in
+the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor
+woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a
+word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and
+then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright,
+pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a
+new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright
+and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a
+drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a
+half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least,
+the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky
+complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black
+braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears.
+Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could
+not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her
+face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus
+she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their <i>tepee</i>.
+The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two
+apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove,
+table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed
+covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen
+except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The
+furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and
+neatness I had not expected.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to
+smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then
+drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf
+tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought,
+it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege
+lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband
+laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her.
+She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the
+lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left
+feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who
+would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor;
+labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw
+is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by
+those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by
+the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians
+are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing
+every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice,
+coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have
+no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as
+Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why
+not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the
+white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or
+die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to
+adopt!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no
+one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in
+the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You
+don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led
+the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built,
+so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting
+to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag
+carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by
+being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had
+the partition been finished.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were
+cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and
+looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected
+without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with
+my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare
+your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I
+long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for
+society."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right
+out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and
+experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by
+friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs.
+W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known
+the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes
+overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost.
+Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock
+raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of
+their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and
+during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod,
+but of lumber.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling
+here will help it so much, and now we will stay."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing
+she had a taste for the beautiful.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made
+our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the
+buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked
+like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a
+prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground
+homes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his
+house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to
+frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn
+toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six
+of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had
+joined them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we
+finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun,
+suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and
+where?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to
+many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept
+hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms,
+and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want
+the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross
+over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs
+of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the
+colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well
+filled with weather stayed emigrants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not
+come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday
+night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When
+daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along
+the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river
+and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the
+journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies
+dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned
+his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left
+Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with
+sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found
+for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned
+that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter
+prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what
+you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not
+expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country
+just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find
+the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would
+not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged
+when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt
+for your motto, "What <i>others</i> have done <i>I</i> can do." Allow
+me to give you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any
+of the colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the
+disadvantages of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April
+of '79 I came to this country to look up a home where I could have good
+cattle range. When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs
+crosswise to look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further
+west, but returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help
+of a young man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was
+under roof. While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made
+garden. We then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and
+came back in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two
+months' supply of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than
+Keya Paha, thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact,
+was about the nearest house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon
+had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his
+reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail,
+that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to
+come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose
+reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number
+together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the
+government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat,
+and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is
+worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is
+strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them
+right on the war-path.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made
+Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from
+Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time
+it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a
+distance of about sixty miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school
+house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister
+(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of
+firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s
+father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower
+part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many
+a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of
+satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give
+them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on
+reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters
+have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without
+meeting a soul on the way.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The
+Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid
+of them."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to
+"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about
+seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr
+oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have
+over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and
+brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us
+took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent;
+went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of
+an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From
+the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet
+strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful
+frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's
+dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his
+blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower
+limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their
+meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant
+plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind
+of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with
+needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding
+their finger ends than was Mr. Clark.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from
+drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about
+all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away,
+I can tell you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson
+from their experience&#8212;never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't
+hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it
+takes good strong material to stand the wind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the
+prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is
+indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving
+grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave
+great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new
+growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was
+not burnt.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same
+time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive
+nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say,
+burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass
+roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy
+soil.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees.
+Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often
+planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato
+patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To
+prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a
+supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of
+course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has
+passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a
+cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday, 21st.</i> Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn
+planting.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to
+be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be
+interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to,
+so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned
+and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that
+closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their
+broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on
+which cattle are grazing&#8212;that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo"
+(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as
+the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only
+to now and then take a stroll over it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half
+a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and
+then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called
+table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing
+line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth,
+where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here,
+thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet
+deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says
+"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the
+water is clear and pleasant to the taste.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on
+the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and
+from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich.
+The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there
+are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak,
+elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in
+the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums,
+choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one
+has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size
+and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead
+of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom
+so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in
+great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines
+that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes"
+of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry,
+which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little
+white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a
+foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not
+choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they
+are pleasant to the taste and refreshing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black
+currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the
+snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are
+starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said
+to be equally as good as the poled hops of home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs.
+K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the
+buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum,
+and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in
+clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from
+the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in
+color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters,
+and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It
+belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as
+ordinary beans and eaten&#8212;if at starvation point. Of the other flowers
+gathered mention was made on my May-day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is
+easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet
+not very hard.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other
+half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen
+inches to two feet deep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by
+those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are.
+"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing
+country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted
+with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far
+from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad
+nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be
+long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free
+from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in
+Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow
+tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want;
+no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we
+will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us
+to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little
+alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"&#8212;to
+scatter over&#8212;and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden
+and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all
+they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the
+building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber
+culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in
+cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in
+stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see
+it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a
+general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers
+will tell the story of its worth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I
+hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of
+an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so
+interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding
+away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down
+to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was
+anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy
+poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof
+for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have
+during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer
+nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while
+of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a
+dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and
+surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real
+to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man
+who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their
+herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as
+he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a
+half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma.
+I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was
+before I came west."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The room was about 10&#215;12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and
+part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made
+when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they
+lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude&#8212;so far
+removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the
+stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only
+retreats for the night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the
+Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and
+wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course,
+or else I am turned all wrong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday.</i> Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to
+regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together,
+going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with
+a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh!
+I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she
+talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble
+monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no
+doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could
+do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and
+gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I
+felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as
+much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to
+Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K.
+and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been
+forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And
+Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted
+on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and
+improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a
+kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them
+all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and
+soon the little group of friends were left behind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to
+part from them?&#8212;Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people
+all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with
+them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the
+spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that
+the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our
+good plans could not be carried out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with
+eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even
+had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a
+nice settlement of people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance
+to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all
+together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just
+where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are
+only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many
+acres.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no
+good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the
+unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose
+wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for
+the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over
+the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The
+tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses
+to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and
+the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may
+learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow
+and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up
+between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod
+with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you
+plant the next hill&#8212;I mean hole&#8212;of corn.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and
+not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania
+roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of
+them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at
+last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry
+home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the
+prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles
+away up here!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized
+sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as
+though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out
+or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and
+now the sea has all gone to grass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that
+I may have a better view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been
+made?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, by the action of the wind and water."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense
+scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape,
+size, and depth."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren
+of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well
+filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on
+the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me
+for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and
+when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to
+some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way,
+I will take another ride behind oxen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for
+stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the
+maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those
+who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did
+not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle
+were stolen without personal regard for the owner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some
+time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still
+committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who
+feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose
+their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter
+from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses
+stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their
+favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's
+bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid
+me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more
+of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of
+other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and
+quite inviting after our long ride.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or
+<i>Running Water</i>. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by,
+as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it
+empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it
+enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide;
+but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps
+in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses
+its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the
+Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a
+pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a
+couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my
+satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset
+picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for
+memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow
+stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered
+with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years
+ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river
+bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed
+heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills,
+and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their
+toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by
+this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack
+"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get
+near it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to
+settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the
+colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the
+land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame
+of the colony will people this country by many times the number of
+actual settlers it itself will bring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I
+attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet
+hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara,
+and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on
+toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful
+valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide,
+but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an
+interesting picture.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side
+of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land
+on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are
+persuaded to test it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north
+side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more
+than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have
+sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call
+the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also
+the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink
+flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny
+flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only
+the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening,
+and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was
+not; but the leaves convinced me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the
+flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem
+to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the
+sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be
+found about Stuart when I left.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and&#8212;"Oh, horror! Mr.
+Newell, look out for the red-skins!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where, Miss Fulton, where?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire
+to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some
+sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian
+blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare
+me scalp."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for
+the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in
+suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first
+chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake
+you up.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a
+prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted
+a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying
+to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a
+mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the
+bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as
+though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the
+"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies
+traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and
+all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of
+worldly goods along.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation
+is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up
+government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good
+homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the
+land for the claiming of it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I
+have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am
+not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty
+welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner."
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier,
+and not tell more of them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one
+whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and
+energy, I quote:
+</p>
+
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p class="ralign">
+"<span class="sc">Brewer, P.O. Brown Co., Neb.</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p class="ralign">
+"December 23, '83.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better
+satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done
+better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled)
+per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger
+vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40,
+wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first
+year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it
+costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and
+windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at
+the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use,
+a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the
+chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight
+feet.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They
+charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs,
+sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two
+and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make
+the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own
+hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in
+the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September,
+and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the
+colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for
+my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will."
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+From another:
+</p>
+
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p>
+"We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have
+some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are
+going to have a reunion 16 February."
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p class="ralign">
+"<span class="sc">Brewer</span>, Jan., 8.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been
+getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th
+December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since
+Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken
+around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of
+years to have schools and plenty of neighbors."
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no
+sickness reported from climating.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is
+a good country for the few of us that came."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the
+little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that
+have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the
+horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have
+been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and
+lodging a greater number in jail.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to
+rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace
+and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all
+things good!
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="II">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER II.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Over the Sioux City &#38; Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri
+Valley.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A visit to Ft. Niobrara.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. &#38;
+P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from
+Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about.
+Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr.
+Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by
+sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the
+Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not
+give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of
+the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that
+neighborhood making it their head-quarters.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for
+ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday
+evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me
+for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we
+availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by
+daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who
+busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck
+and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain
+with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and
+that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no
+nothing but prairie.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be
+going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we
+all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent
+braces himself against the stove, and I&#8212;well I just shake and laugh.
+It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the
+agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face
+and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that
+his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last
+Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara
+and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't
+know when to be thankful, do they?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and
+not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that
+of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is
+prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems
+quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade
+again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her
+head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't
+shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the
+country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills
+or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine,
+where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them
+of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to
+meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a
+walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees
+that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen
+from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made
+haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it
+was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see
+more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular
+passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening
+was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested
+upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the
+company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home
+where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I
+am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has
+repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll"
+folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is
+silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful
+hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from
+home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to
+Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and
+the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my
+coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the
+depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and
+protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I
+trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has
+always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know
+He will not forsake me now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence,
+says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I believe I will go, after all."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the
+depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just
+rising.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until
+our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and
+spend Sunday at Long Pine.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat,
+fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman
+back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman
+across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old
+mother!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there&#8212;well, I scarcely know what that
+is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair
+of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But
+while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a
+great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved,
+it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you
+see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of
+gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat
+in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our
+background.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes
+up, and the fatherly old gent rouses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he
+asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am a member of the colony," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they
+getting along?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as
+lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial
+introductions. But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves
+us with a pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be
+J. Wesley Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at
+Valentine, but says it is too rough and bad to take his family there,
+and tells stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The
+thoughtful man is Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago,
+who will spend his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine,
+and this is his first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister
+that has been bold enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks;
+"Is the colony supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our
+mission talks of sending one to them if they would wish it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching,
+as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination
+is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no
+church and no school house nearer than three miles."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the
+people together."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and
+their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to
+Valentine, and remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I gathered some very interesting history from&#8212;&#8212;"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well if you believe all old &#8212;&#8212; tells you, you may just believe
+everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured
+a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and
+listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter
+recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random,
+not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in
+testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about
+their ears."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to
+Valentine," I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort
+sake, "no danger of you getting shot, <i>unless</i> by <i>mere
+accident</i>. They are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never
+known to insult a lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when
+they are on a spree, they are as <i>wild</i> as <i>wild</i> can be;"
+with an ominous shake of his head.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Can't say, indeed; <i>hope not</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he
+could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his
+hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and
+baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one
+lodged that came through the house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car
+to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement
+than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the
+most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card
+with:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the
+Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your
+courage."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake <cite>Tribune</cite>,
+Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be
+able to do them as much good as others of more experience could."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would
+be among them. Mrs. P. whispered:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing
+us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after
+sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn
+much of Valentine, I know all I care to now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy&#8212;I
+could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he
+wore&#8212;changed the subject with:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no
+alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this
+railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many
+a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a
+good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these
+sand hills then as there is now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through
+all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look
+old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks
+all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression;
+and I have been judging you so harshly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to
+thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a
+good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is
+there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the
+old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in
+heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an
+evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and
+protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far
+beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers
+a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while
+remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in
+fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless
+auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in
+prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and
+goodness, I go and feel I am not <i>alone</i>. Had it not been for my
+faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey;
+but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your
+stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look
+down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest
+to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would
+write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had
+written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of
+Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr.
+Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So
+gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not
+care to sleep, for&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet,</div>
+<div>To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep.</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the
+Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were
+so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills
+glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of
+silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me
+from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating
+along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as
+though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was
+eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to
+waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and
+put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a
+greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but
+more interesting from its plainer view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country
+as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door
+of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level
+grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and
+sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely
+anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries,
+white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath
+the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly
+bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when
+"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to
+"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went
+to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50
+cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the
+depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four
+passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered
+about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from
+it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the
+bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon
+door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs.
+P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself
+close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a
+protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at
+first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a
+resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all
+quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder.
+Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and
+soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I
+would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down
+stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the
+fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man,
+with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to
+him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and
+some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed
+with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of
+revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine
+looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than
+of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an
+improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy
+in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long
+at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a
+better life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened
+expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his
+head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face
+I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general
+favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going
+away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know
+how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number.
+I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone,
+excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to
+read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your
+sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so
+often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a
+wild misspent life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not
+think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store
+and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot.
+Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear
+banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but
+was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to
+walk about and see the town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what
+looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray
+rocks and pine trees.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost
+perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or
+Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the
+Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that
+it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained
+of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of
+it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the
+Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited
+sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about
+100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is
+broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their
+steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing
+in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small
+amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile
+wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a
+time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which
+are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an
+interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a
+pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which
+they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags
+are lost to view in their own wanderings."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was
+but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the
+town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from
+Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand
+banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy
+homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and
+two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the
+Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and
+number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land
+office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land
+of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about
+twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is
+not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very
+long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and
+returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left
+there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade
+Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest
+wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant,
+which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be
+but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that
+direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he
+would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better
+view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and
+then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte
+that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around
+it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed,
+and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over
+Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even
+extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any
+information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that
+afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that
+was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see
+a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"&#8212;a block house with
+loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort
+Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses,
+most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square.
+The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large,
+handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings,
+chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc.
+Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and
+reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the
+officers and privates.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under
+restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is
+punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods,
+a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the
+buildings are the stables&#8212;one for the gray and another for the sorrel
+horses&#8212;about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small
+trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly
+termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the
+driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that
+it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to
+duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at
+a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are
+boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for
+driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received
+fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their
+wives there&#8212;and but few are allowed that privilege&#8212;do so with the
+understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for
+the soldiers in return for their own keeping.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the
+chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were
+kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon
+called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D.
+entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never
+was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time
+in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of
+interest about me, and my time so limited.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly
+consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I
+quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the
+bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out
+of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we
+were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs
+that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand
+and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the
+cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched
+the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys
+in one company, and sorrels in another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a
+post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of
+the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could
+not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of
+soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000
+Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so
+disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be
+retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole
+keeper and support&#8212;"Uncle Sam."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest
+praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad,
+as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my
+own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he
+spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of
+brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn,
+known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a
+brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good
+soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent
+death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man
+and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is
+interesting, I will briefly repeat it:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for
+believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and
+rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became
+known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long
+after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort,
+and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took
+with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they
+had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock
+fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot
+by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to
+let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the
+confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians,
+who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies
+under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They
+followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under
+arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not
+allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life&#8212;a poor
+return for such a one as he had taken.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this
+the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker
+of his life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail
+was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians
+were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let
+Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when
+Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the
+agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted
+Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the
+wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely
+followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave
+himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but
+has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort
+Pierre.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to
+return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3
+o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he
+immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a
+half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And
+bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our
+way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange
+beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short,
+yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train
+left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough
+looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established
+by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train.
+The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of
+ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on
+us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we
+wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine.
+So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a
+gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a
+couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the
+train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a
+greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do mules ever run off?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sometimes they do."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I guess not."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long
+lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train
+on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government
+mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not
+add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the
+very worst of mules.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off,
+and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and
+then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half
+miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he
+helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood&#8212;chips
+from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of
+our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet
+as in the morning.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr.
+T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs,
+which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large
+cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground.
+They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the
+settling up of the country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th
+meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the
+man whom I thought must be a pony boy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to
+travel in only a baggage car!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back,
+and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. T. remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own
+company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the
+train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I
+will speak to the conductor in your behalf.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor
+and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that
+I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least
+discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt
+very much alone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I
+sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I
+sang&#8212;just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and
+songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man
+think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then
+to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way,
+and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was
+always answered in the most respectful manner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a
+sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any
+one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and
+whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, all I got written was:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy
+roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high;
+river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through
+a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom.
+Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the
+cuts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Thatcher</span>, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the
+train from their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8&#215;10 deserted
+store-house almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter,
+Vegetables, and Eggs," out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars'
+worth have been sold. Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin
+fruit cans are strewn all around.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level
+grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told,
+are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Arabia</span>, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Wood Lake</span>, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some
+one has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is
+scarcely a house to be seen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Johnstown</span>, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking
+on a better appearance&#8212;farm houses dotting the country in every
+direction. Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty
+little town, a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place
+again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach
+Long Pine about six o'clock.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I
+have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises
+and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence.
+Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use
+of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the
+stranger for thinking so wrongly of him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J.
+Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie,
+fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south,
+and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has
+one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber
+yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one
+restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all
+to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a
+membership of thirteen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of
+seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its
+growth since then.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been
+decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated
+portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the
+people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question.
+Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight
+Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all
+foreigners that go west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number
+of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the
+result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation
+months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A
+bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth.
+There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river,
+yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand
+acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a
+continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken.
+The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and
+the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance.
+Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are
+still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this
+place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter
+for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough
+for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts.
+The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will
+give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its
+merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per
+acre; potatoes, weighing 3&#189; pounds, and 400 bushels per acre;
+cabbage, 22 pounds&#8212;&#8212;"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so
+favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort
+Niobrara, that he disposed of his <cite>Tribune</cite> office, and returned,
+and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken,
+and located at Ainsworth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of
+later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's
+stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in
+preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services
+in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One
+saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the
+saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but
+did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the
+stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet
+with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who
+join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt
+there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry
+(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many
+of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are
+runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting
+stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and
+the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who
+remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer
+in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are
+spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for
+a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in
+looking."
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+LONG PINE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek
+of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery
+and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there
+could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of
+nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired
+early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this
+hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests
+the better for its absence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long
+Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself
+started early for the bridge.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it
+is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view
+by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine
+trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the
+table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among
+the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct
+springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream
+below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep
+pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away,
+and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs,
+and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara.
+We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can
+south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the
+trees loftier.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to
+grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge
+and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross
+the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and
+branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the
+springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on
+a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water,
+and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view
+the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so
+romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's
+winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up
+by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on
+until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold
+wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering
+Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow
+pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge
+and beyond we went, following down the stream.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so
+grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania
+hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from
+twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand
+and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials,
+and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the
+pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back
+from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear
+conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no
+less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too,
+preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever
+since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post
+until the end.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where
+a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H.
+stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon
+a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of
+the distance that lay between me and home came before me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought,
+but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that
+is all powerful in every hour and need.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come
+from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native
+state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large
+double log house on the banks of the Pine&#8212;a very pretty spot they
+claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and
+said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go
+to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see
+some one from home, it would almost cure me!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh,
+Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us
+of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black
+Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the
+few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath
+School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a
+neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had
+been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering.
+And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their
+home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not
+allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and
+promised to spend Monday with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E.
+services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday</i>&#8212;Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the
+Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of
+all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are
+leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek,
+"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs
+are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these
+cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and
+"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a
+wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was
+explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in
+the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her
+trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word,
+"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only
+did our duty."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was
+so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can
+and will care for his children when they call upon him.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the
+spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health,
+but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the
+Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched
+our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where
+Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days,
+when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the
+other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves
+that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after
+asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little
+house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and
+perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the
+river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the
+Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the
+ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the
+men, left as soon as his duty was performed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of
+Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to
+Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented
+that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of
+which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife
+strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself&#8212;and at that time
+sick&#8212;signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to
+sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far
+until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding
+him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the
+shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our
+tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison
+house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by
+a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with
+crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their
+leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other,
+with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render
+him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a
+worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and
+would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our
+tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put
+his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the
+hill and entreated those who came to turn back.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon
+came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we
+were not again disturbed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha
+for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest
+but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the
+tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the
+long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant
+action.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for
+fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply
+of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the
+man, and morning came and found him still living.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that
+our children were safe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he
+very badly needed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men,
+friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of
+Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were
+his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with
+their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as
+guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him
+to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when
+they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to
+land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I
+was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on
+to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we
+had pursued.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles
+away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to
+depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated
+through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if
+Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and
+warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save
+ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take
+whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that
+our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we
+had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with
+us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come
+again, and urged me to go with her to her home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you <i>must not</i> leave me!" and
+then the thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her
+own life for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could
+not refrain from singing,
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"Through this changing world below,</div>
+<div>Lead me gently, gently, as I go;</div>
+<div>Trusting Thee, I cannot stray,</div>
+<div>I can never, never lose my way."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over
+the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came
+upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst
+you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper,
+"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against
+thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but
+greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though
+surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R.
+came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home
+she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own
+safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all
+dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the
+appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting
+and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a
+prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do
+hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for
+he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of
+his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all
+his bad deeds behind.)
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death
+blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we
+did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles
+further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five
+hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only
+remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we
+could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the
+frontier again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never
+experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for
+a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they
+would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their
+revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was
+done to assure me that I was safe at their hands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I
+repeat only truth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now to her collection of curiosities&#8212;but can only mention a few:
+One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two
+feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed
+the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they
+left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had
+been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of
+which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in
+circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the
+point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white,
+and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered
+from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors.
+As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to
+a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did
+not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But
+what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our
+guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me
+with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be
+persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet
+had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the
+beaver with only their four front teeth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine,
+cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of
+a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal
+of lumber.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he
+was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in
+April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular
+services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown,
+Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing
+between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the
+spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora
+Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak
+and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr.
+S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state,
+and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my
+newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but,
+best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the
+beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in
+June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H.
+Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and
+pitched a boarding tent, 14&#215;16, from which they fed the workmen on the
+railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was
+followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now
+there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one
+drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant.
+Population 175.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean
+the following:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you
+visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put
+up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22&#215;86, ten
+two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of
+both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved
+into their 20&#215;40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second
+story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's
+hardware, where also religious services are regularly held.
+Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree.
+The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is
+proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting
+in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a
+saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine,
+three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing
+pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty
+bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato
+raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured
+twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half
+short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of
+north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast
+disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of
+what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back
+from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for
+nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber
+culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded
+lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been
+taken up during the past year.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our
+county, and find as follows:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters
+to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters.
+Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it
+will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead,
+pre-emption, and timber culture laws.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen
+miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across
+the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country
+well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county
+is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average
+favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further
+developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be
+a good producing soil."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Water is good and easily obtained.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the
+creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around
+on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a
+distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long
+Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are
+of a clear, white sand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has
+been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be
+eastward bound.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back
+from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on
+the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new
+merchant just opening a store near the colony.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so
+pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the
+cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were
+drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he
+and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very
+unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a
+ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better
+life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole
+use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to
+lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift
+given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone
+would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat;
+so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs.
+Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219
+miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry
+brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to
+themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of
+the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two
+occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first
+train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter
+Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on
+the south.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up
+of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new,
+rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first,
+until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of
+Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is
+permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then
+the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.),
+which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general
+stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm
+implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and
+blacksmith shop, and a bank.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was
+visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on
+the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has
+here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of
+April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out
+from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and
+shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the
+story of the first chapter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I
+have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that
+the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very
+appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From The Stuart <cite>Ledger</cite> we quote: The Methodists have organized
+with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the
+building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev.
+Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson
+is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of
+Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24&#215;42, where over
+60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss
+Mamie Woods. An opera house 22&#215;60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's
+building, 18&#215;24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist,
+and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will
+close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received
+from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24:
+"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two
+months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come
+in their 'schooners.'
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three
+feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly
+enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion";
+of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as
+satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe
+its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape,
+and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets,
+closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth,
+and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your
+satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full
+length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want
+to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and
+was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can
+be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel;
+and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all
+I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists,
+and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing
+"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr.
+Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family.
+Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the
+following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place:
+"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two
+hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a
+population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine
+month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about
+$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson <cite>Graphic</cite>,
+several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention.
+Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about
+500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county
+during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa,
+though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles
+east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last
+March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday
+school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can
+be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by
+next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily
+obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded
+coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114
+miles, to attend Robinson's circus&#8212;but shows are a rarity here. The
+light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding
+country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling
+prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there
+settlers' homes with their culture of timber.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians,
+and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt
+county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches,
+Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It
+has three papers, The <cite>Frontier</cite>, Holt County
+<cite>Banner</cite>, both republican, and O'Neill <cite>Tribune</cite>,
+Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a mile from the river. Gen.
+O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the
+Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this
+point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was
+completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college
+located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81.
+U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83.
+County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a
+private enterprise by the citizens.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also
+given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless
+to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well
+represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will
+bring into a western town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much
+that has already been said of others, and the story of their added
+years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of
+to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright,
+new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost
+weaving high.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as
+we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road
+to Missouri Valley&#8212;its starting point&#8212;and for this we have Mr. J. R.
+Buchanan for authority.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of
+the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. company in
+1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New
+Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road.
+Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was
+worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population;
+is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the
+vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no
+superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of
+wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn.
+Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre,
+now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The S.C. &#38; P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached
+Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about
+100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad
+was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the
+direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black
+Hills.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it
+will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri
+river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the
+channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until
+the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000
+feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments
+built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the
+river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over
+$1,000,000.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must
+leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="III">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER III.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A
+description of the great Platte Valley.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a
+depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to
+putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master
+until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge
+storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to
+remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act
+of kindness shown me already.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket
+agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road,
+which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am
+glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed
+at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer.
+Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the
+telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could
+not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of
+colonizing on the frontier."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have
+been inquiring for you&#8212;but you must stop on your return and see the
+beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was
+not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were
+thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to
+see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was
+almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden.
+I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded
+westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren
+of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is
+lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied
+and much under cultivation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the
+railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its
+amber light, making it a beautiful sight.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from
+an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles
+wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and
+hindered all further sight-seeing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out
+of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares,
+"It is just good for him&#8212;no business to let the man get his hand on
+his money!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the
+conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat,
+assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the
+old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to
+protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the
+conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour
+would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot,
+but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me
+with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our
+letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity
+and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found
+Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo
+Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and
+trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning
+much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we
+found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a
+long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from
+the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters:
+Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black
+hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color
+and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet
+teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is
+taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but
+delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features
+and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet
+of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate
+as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and
+the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void
+the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed
+enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with
+his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has
+always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the
+"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the
+following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport,
+Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport.
+Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature
+from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at
+Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was
+occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on
+reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to
+California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers
+and Mormons.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their
+language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance
+and shoot with bow and arrow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that
+had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery
+man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a
+burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he
+died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for
+burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of
+armed men came to take the life that had just gone out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing
+service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first
+blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl
+sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and
+thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and
+took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him
+from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely
+forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the
+employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors &#38; Waddell, his duty
+being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City
+to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the
+Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of
+the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great
+freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity
+of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train
+consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a
+railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of
+transportation beyond the states.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his
+first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a
+party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the
+cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing
+several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from
+the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the
+creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first
+shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young
+as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has
+since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage
+driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government,
+which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very
+best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa
+Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature
+in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his
+exhibitions on the stage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of,
+they just call it buffalo &#8212;&#8212; and as a consequence, there are buffalo
+gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss,
+grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when
+he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the
+Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the
+country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn
+of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost
+every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta
+and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln
+county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the
+sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte
+rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December,
+1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the
+town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had
+to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business
+houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land
+office of the western district embraces the government land of
+Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and
+Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the
+surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as
+stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is
+quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are
+fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but
+those which have been cultivated.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of
+the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and
+painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited
+to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door
+six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without
+ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens
+and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were
+discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room,
+thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how
+they would enjoy it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests,
+but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed
+the joke."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was
+abandoned four years ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to
+be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot,
+I left Monday evening for Plum Creek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and
+whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of
+adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about
+their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the
+lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the
+east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do
+better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken
+mother.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us
+on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester,
+N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave
+lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last
+summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I
+die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for
+the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more
+than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely
+child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been
+interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady
+from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how
+they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not
+be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never
+been without a snow-cap since she first saw them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to
+meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we
+preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the
+gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston
+House.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania
+about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum
+creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the
+little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming
+Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum
+Creek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to
+Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April,
+1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still
+holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station
+house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he
+built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present
+town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one
+mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile
+further west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County <cite>Pioneer</cite>,
+of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the
+organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71,
+at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the
+entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told.
+But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous
+people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated
+March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the
+Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs
+affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte
+river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was
+celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of
+Columbus.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the
+churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their
+religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the
+Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of
+'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the
+county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev.
+Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in
+'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the
+Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian
+congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and
+far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska
+colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under
+charge of F. J. Pearson.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their
+first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the
+U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor <cite>Pioneer</cite>,
+whom I questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained
+have done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther
+west, until there is not many of us left; only about eight families
+that are now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by
+the grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was
+very discouraging."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove
+their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be
+driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the
+treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of
+light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after
+they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose
+mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal,
+seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west
+of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which
+two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still
+living."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel
+in a 16&#215;20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men,
+who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they
+could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is
+now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact
+some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him
+how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I
+can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?'
+No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married.
+He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take
+you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John
+Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a
+family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even
+this opportunity to get to my friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white
+with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of
+it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the
+bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph
+Butterbaugh&#8212;our old neighbor&#8212;coming to town, and who was greatly
+surprised, as they had not received my letter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and
+sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces,
+just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along
+the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to
+our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely
+improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others
+where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod
+houses).
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one
+herd, making it dangerous for travelers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house
+built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any
+lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are
+built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building
+of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then
+built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the
+summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a
+good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for
+sheep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box
+nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and
+receives the mail.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad
+land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for
+pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8&#215;10 frame, where
+the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for
+holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the
+stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon
+us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in
+my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I
+know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily
+sang:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild,</div>
+<div>And feel that my mother now thinks of her child,</div>
+<div>As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door,</div>
+<div>Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined
+by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and
+together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I
+sing with more emphasis than&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"Oh give me back my native hills,</div>
+<div>Rough, rugged though they be,</div>
+<div>No other land, no other clime</div>
+<div>Is half so dear to me."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in
+the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and
+sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I
+don't think I have tried to sing it since."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I
+thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes
+down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until
+it echoed from bluff to bluff.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr.
+A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the
+morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr.
+A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with
+me on that morning ride.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Rough?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some
+things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt,
+as that horse <i>tried</i> to trot&#8212;perhaps it was my poke hat that was
+coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted
+Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go
+three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow:
+mind, we don't want to be going round many corners."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you;
+can you stand another trot?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and
+laugh at my attempt at riding.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's
+sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered&#8212;"Breakfast
+for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill
+into a "grand gallop."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my
+laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the
+door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the
+laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after
+all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one.
+Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the
+river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded
+away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie,
+bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old
+friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs
+and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the <i>swing</i> very
+much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a
+half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to
+come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To
+peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight
+to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of
+one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the
+Platte river three miles away&#8212;the river a mile in width, and the wide
+valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The
+U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the
+trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the
+east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes
+Cozad, Willow Island&#8212;almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first
+house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add
+the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five
+families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to
+be more than doubled by spring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after
+wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight
+until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills
+and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or
+pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a
+river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and
+are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call
+calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They
+seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed
+with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how &#230;sthetic we have
+grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect&#8212;would much
+rather look at the deer tracks.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and
+cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all
+taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain
+cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun
+with grape-vines.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring
+it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor
+fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower?
+But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown
+doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt
+bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I
+returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very
+deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not
+touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so
+lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it&#8212;well, he didn't catch the
+rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Sunday.</i> We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and
+Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with
+Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner
+time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen&#8212;only a few
+willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected
+from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a
+garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest
+flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms
+same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is
+not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the
+widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the
+north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of
+the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water
+is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the
+table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we
+heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?"
+I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a
+boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing
+if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that
+pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves
+of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width,
+and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of
+everything but grass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting
+of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that
+rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the
+North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the
+north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It
+has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and
+rapid&#8212;running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and
+changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its
+brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under
+ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican
+river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than
+the Platte.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of
+our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound
+train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have
+described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our
+colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought
+large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the
+Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give
+depth of soil and its production, but will add the following:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels
+wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30;
+and barley about 40 bushels per acre.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of
+December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was
+108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below,
+which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as
+high as 36 above since.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. &#38;
+M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the
+same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county.
+First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in
+'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list
+shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north
+side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160
+miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in
+'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that
+time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and
+bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a
+canal to utilize the waters of the Platte.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that
+hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar,
+maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont,
+named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842
+and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed
+but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and
+silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river
+and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his
+mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large
+and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated
+at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but
+now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches.
+It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. I must
+add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any
+sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for
+some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near
+the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are
+entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along
+the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance
+as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha
+about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had
+breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt
+Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R.
+land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha
+Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was
+made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been
+ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska
+shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the
+present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a
+homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was
+founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied
+across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge
+completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the
+first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten
+dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha,
+and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected
+for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton,
+Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa
+shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the
+Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to
+make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren
+plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet
+above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water
+tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis.
+It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha
+now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's
+principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and
+as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln,
+about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master,
+and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed
+to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington
+House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my
+friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman
+to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and
+that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many hom&#339;opathic
+physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners
+live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania.
+But a better thought came&#8212;that of the Baptist minister, as they
+attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and
+through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a
+long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your
+friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us
+to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his
+kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin
+Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather
+long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met.
+"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if
+you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile
+walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City
+Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I
+have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find
+the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood
+waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln
+in my walking up and down&#8212;at least all I cared to. But the welcome
+"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the
+kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its
+unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I
+was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own
+garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling
+stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing
+but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia
+Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of
+finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie,
+you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in
+Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing
+this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska.
+Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty
+miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction,
+in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which
+connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was
+the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is
+4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J.
+W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company
+yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where
+some government land is yet to be had.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln,
+Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April
+24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have
+gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in
+unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty
+acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan,
+in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying
+their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land
+within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all
+government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest
+fit only for grazing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on
+Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with
+much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue."
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="IV">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER IV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Over the B. &#38; M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return
+via Hastings.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A description of the Republican and
+Blue Valleys.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;The Saratoga of Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making
+point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for
+"Danger"&#8212;danger of it biting me or getting away&#8212;my prairie dog, which
+had found a home in a barrel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One evening Cousin Andy said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they
+make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that
+reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering
+the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in
+the side told the story.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price
+for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a
+Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor
+table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found
+him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know
+just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with
+heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but
+by morning the ground would be in good working order.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for
+several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county
+field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving
+their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now
+earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was
+entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so
+completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob
+Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built
+railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the
+way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in
+the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres,
+and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers
+until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads,
+settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has
+an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent
+of the B. &#38; M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and
+while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the
+third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central
+Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a few moments conversation, he asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Indiana county."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is
+dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me
+all kindness and interest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of
+his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same
+kindness and attention that every one does at his hands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern
+Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that
+truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then
+seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends
+and more of the state.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face
+was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me
+she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not
+expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience:
+I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three
+months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word
+of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my
+young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously
+ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her
+off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that
+she might find her brother better.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my
+eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect
+snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression
+from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but
+that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention
+by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold
+and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little
+ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just
+as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look
+as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first
+foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a
+settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely
+together as possible.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I
+had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, sir."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"To Mr. Fulton's?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, yes. You know my friends then?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew
+where you were going."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but
+then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are
+different people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed
+at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was
+the one she had expected."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You know where they live then?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you
+to the house."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to
+his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when
+I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous
+week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my
+Uncle's door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around
+me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to
+go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought
+you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us
+yesterday."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the
+depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just
+when I am given up for good."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his
+motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over,
+Aunt said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, not a word."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about
+now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then
+I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps
+already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of
+what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God
+in His great loving kindness is sparing us!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle
+John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same
+village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the
+year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the
+saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and
+baby Ruth, with malaria fever.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs&#8212;a
+town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the
+banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great
+volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber&#8212;honey locust, elm,
+box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees
+and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches
+in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska,
+and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to
+us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just
+as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among
+the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers
+of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in
+this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J.
+H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first
+surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were
+Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek
+is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among
+us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had
+been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the
+first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the
+Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only
+three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers.
+Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of
+flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them
+quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a
+sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed
+to a post for everybody to use.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two
+months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell
+everybody else to come. And come they did&#8212;walking, riding in ox
+wagons, and any way at all&#8212;until in all there was 150 of us. The
+ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress
+in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the
+dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn
+dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn.
+The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We
+sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers
+with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some
+war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight.
+Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind.
+So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all
+summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow
+bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and&#8212;well, that corn
+money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500
+bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as
+this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160
+acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for
+$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together
+in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us
+prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle
+to the Otoe Indians on the reservation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor
+pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the
+field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with
+their ponies.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from
+Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week
+from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars
+a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody
+went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission
+Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday
+morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and
+surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life
+we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted
+me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't
+see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out
+to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how
+much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on
+the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody
+calls me 'Pap Tyler.'"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the
+Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom
+of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were
+about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old
+ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not
+that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a
+country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the
+people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated
+man. I marked him&#8212;fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the
+state. The programme of the day was as follows:
+</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li><span class="sc">Song</span>&#8212;<i>The Red, White, and Blue</i>.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Declaration of Independence</span>&#8212;Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of twelve years.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Song</span>&#8212;<i>Night Before the Battle</i>.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>&#8212;<i>Our Schools</i>. Responded to by J. C. Burch.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>&#8212;<i>Our Railroads</i>. Rev. J. M. Pryse.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Music</span>&#8212;By the band.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>&#8212;<i>Our Neighbors</i>. Rev. E. H. Burrington.
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and
+with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their
+dinners.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat
+my dinner under the flag with a stain&#8212;a rebel flag of eleven stars and
+three stripes&#8212;a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom
+tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the
+celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+WYMORE
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost
+an undisturbed prairie until the B. &#38; M.R.R. came this way in the
+spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the
+ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640
+acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here
+sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little
+shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built
+homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you
+what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat
+Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall,
+Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of
+their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising
+western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on
+Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The
+heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a
+feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool
+and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon
+almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush,
+or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will
+shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is
+a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but
+one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and
+south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two
+miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it
+with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue
+on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six
+miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another
+creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800,
+on the B. &#38; M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and
+west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the
+agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at
+the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency."
+It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the
+30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a
+"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I
+felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so
+desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting
+posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the
+head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and
+hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little
+ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy
+hunting-ground."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other
+tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new
+home in the Indian Territory.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in
+places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see
+Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun
+was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska
+breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until
+the stars were shining.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw
+working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached
+to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and
+the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans;
+minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking
+these days when it says 100&#176; in the shade, cool, and if you can't take
+them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not
+do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled
+over and broke the bulb.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came
+in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a
+cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or
+two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and
+shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner
+of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie
+and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 <span class="smc">P.M.</span>
+train, July 5th.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all
+crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such
+a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these
+dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as
+though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and
+friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and
+nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and
+now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy
+meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of
+the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along:
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ODELL,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet
+well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent
+the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the
+Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins
+hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's
+planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with
+bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark
+muddy water that covers the bottom.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+DILLER,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing
+platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and
+grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is
+running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+INDIAN CREEK.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now
+just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill
+killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they
+were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for
+thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly
+defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his
+hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill
+from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer
+used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians,
+and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The
+stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place,
+and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ENDICOTT,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the
+centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing
+through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear
+door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+REYNOLDS,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good
+homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so
+good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the
+hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in
+bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is
+running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why
+Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the
+left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I
+do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence.
+Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor
+looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of
+cattle grazing.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+HUBBELL.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power;
+only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall
+wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county,
+which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of
+Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have
+since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five,
+wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in
+this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in
+hand, and was referred to &#8212;&#8212; &#8212;&#8212; for information, who asked&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are you writing for the <cite>Inter Ocean</cite>?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a
+lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their
+publication."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls
+county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old
+schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking
+since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me
+to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard
+some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand,
+gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just
+beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that
+points its spire heavenward through his labors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all
+the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the
+friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three
+little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the
+beauties of the "Garden of the West."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we
+cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling,
+and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land,
+with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The
+prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our
+portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower.
+While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a
+faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier.
+They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves
+sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to
+think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these
+great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a
+weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is
+almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make
+one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of
+black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with
+Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some
+years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk
+house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a
+wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs
+when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in
+any direction.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky
+waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and
+go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay
+with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one
+who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have
+you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I
+was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I
+<i>must</i> go, and sunset saw me off.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge
+I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough&#8212;sandy bed and banks,
+trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there
+only in wet weather.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles
+north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for
+several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean
+passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks
+of the Republican.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will
+know what they are.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+SUPERIOR
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The
+Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not
+catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I
+thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not
+understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much
+emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on the
+beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains he
+has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I <i>just love</i>
+to go fossiling! Don't you <i>love</i> to go fossiling, Miss?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know
+it is just too <i>lovely</i> for <i>anything</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern
+people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not
+tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers,
+and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I
+went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next
+morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine
+and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on
+all of the three railroads.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have
+always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive,
+and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his
+engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great
+throbbing heart of the Centennial&#8212;the Corliss engine, excited my
+admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the
+Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore
+with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and
+all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned
+to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at
+Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a
+ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long
+wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the
+fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the
+window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that
+amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a
+minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my
+impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was
+there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I
+appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Fourteen miles," was the reply.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the
+engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a
+bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and
+let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the
+wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place.
+When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they
+had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen
+minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as
+he did so, asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, did they go pretty fast?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't know, did they?" I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at
+McCook.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the
+seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the
+railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the
+little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a
+population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks
+of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of
+the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up
+with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place
+I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford,
+Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first
+house was built in June, '82.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of
+the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is
+seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the
+appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame
+house, build one that will look well at a distance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried
+from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and
+located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at
+a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook
+<cite>Tribune</cite>, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then
+in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near
+which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. &#38; M.R.R. was completed
+through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained
+from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as
+has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained,
+and brick is cheaper than in the east.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From a copy of the Daily <cite>Tribune</cite>, I read a long list of
+business firms and professional cards, and finished with, "<i>no
+saloons</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics
+worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given
+the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called
+upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from
+home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the
+east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the
+east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook.
+I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the
+Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She
+told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the
+ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found
+in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few
+days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can
+and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an
+engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without
+seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this
+road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness
+that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to
+point out all that was of interest, along the way."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops,
+with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken
+claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought
+80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the
+homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough
+to go into stock-raising.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western
+part of Hitchcock county.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight
+counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The
+40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the
+Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is
+easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well
+sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south.
+These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood,
+and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly
+populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone,
+the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty
+of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and
+will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado,
+are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand,
+and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side
+and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by
+the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond
+lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does
+not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars
+in all shapes and little islands of green&#8212;there it winds to the south
+and is lost to sight&#8212;herds of cattle&#8212;corn field&#8212;river again with
+willow fringed bank&#8212;cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand,
+or they would not be there long&#8212;river gone again&#8212;tall willow
+grove&#8212;wire fencing&#8212;creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width.
+Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles
+long, and cattle grazing in it&#8212;all fenced in until we reach
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+INDIANOLA,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was
+surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was
+slow until the advent of the B. &#38; M., and now it numbers over 400
+inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses'
+from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and
+school house&#8212;great herd of cattle&#8212;wilderness of sunflowers turning
+their bright faces to the sun&#8212;now nothing but grass&#8212;corral made of
+logs&#8212;corn and potatoes&#8212;out of the old sod into the nice new
+frame&#8212;river beautifully wooded&#8212;valley about four miles wide from
+bluff to bluff&#8212;dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at
+home&#8212;board fence.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+CAMBRIDGE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring
+mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose
+shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple
+shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo
+wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ARAPAHOE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and
+bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on
+their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern
+point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty
+miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that
+neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are
+two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was
+platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in
+sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them!
+didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in
+very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream
+no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its
+banks. River close; trees&#8212;there, it and the trees are both gone south.
+Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+OXFORD.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north;
+town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a
+Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for
+mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and
+cattle, cattle&#8212;What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out
+west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan
+county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small
+towns, but will not be so long.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here we are at
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ORLEANS.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the
+north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before
+me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her
+company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream
+called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which
+the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the
+town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and
+for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their
+right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles
+east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400
+of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county
+seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its
+interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land.
+Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land;
+large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old
+sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ALMA.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the
+table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the
+county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near
+Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the
+interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her
+fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only
+passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove
+the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other
+talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+REPUBLICAN CITY.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400.
+Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would
+be more plenty.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+NAPONEE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in
+sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Bloomington</span>&#8212;the "Highland City"&#8212;the county seat of Franklin
+county, and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful
+valley, nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public
+buildings, and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian
+churches, a large Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills,
+a large creamery, and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians
+are excellent judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch
+of country, although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The
+Pawnees were the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I
+do not wonder that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown
+into a grand possession for their white brothers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half
+and use a dash for the rest of the words cor&#8212;, pota&#8212;, bush&#8212;, tre&#8212;,
+riv&#8212;. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that
+wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a
+good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it
+came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre&#8212; or bus&#8212;;
+well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive
+roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the
+river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have
+ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for
+awhile, and just then you haven't.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at
+<span class="sc">Franklin</span>, a real good solid town. First house built July,
+1879. I never can guess how many people live in a town by looking at it
+from a car window. How do I know how many there are at work in the
+creamery, flouring mill, and woolen factory? And how many pupils are
+studying in the Franklin Academy, a fine two-story building erected by
+the Republican Valley Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500?
+First term opened Dec. 6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is
+$12,000, and they propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and
+seven students have been enrolled during the present term. And how many
+little boys and girls in the common school building? or how many are in
+their nicely painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and
+dug-outs in the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of
+the ground? It takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds
+of houses to make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye,
+oats, millet, broom corn, and all <i>sich</i>&#8212;good all the way along
+this valley.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+RIVERTON.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in
+ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. &#38; M.
+Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to
+$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great
+fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now;
+there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of
+the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the
+Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it
+brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the
+bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes"
+and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One
+minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as
+though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a
+direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile.
+Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has
+stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed!
+Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles
+away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+RED CLOUD!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud,
+I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams
+were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I
+stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad;
+first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that
+hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my
+foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new
+moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the
+Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking
+up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a
+rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last
+came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes
+into a silent prayer:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage,
+enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me
+into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant
+lady, and soon I was listening to the following story:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers,
+and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which
+much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other
+settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several
+settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently
+visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for
+taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people
+stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of
+logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first
+winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in
+the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this
+spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but
+was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on
+the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and
+as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also
+plenty of elk, antelope, and deer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in
+my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes
+polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the
+summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer
+county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72,
+and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told
+of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I
+could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he
+is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo
+meat hung to the ceiling, and added:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I spent many a happy day there."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving
+well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a
+dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden
+even by the most humble abode.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same
+as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and
+have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's
+children.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as
+Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness,
+for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in
+the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days
+and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery&#8212;her native
+state.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing
+the surrounding beauties of their home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years
+ago&#8212;fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some
+think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while
+Mrs. G. says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if
+I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in
+the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and
+phaeton to take me to the depot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming
+and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large
+photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more
+of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14&#215;16
+hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good
+home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud,
+which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for
+their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over
+sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100
+miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their
+groceries.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from
+centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which
+Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had
+made that he paid for in years of service to his country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the B. &#38; M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450
+inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the
+B. &#38; M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster
+county, and surrounded by a rich country&#8212;need I add more?
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+AMBOY.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with
+bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+COWLES.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to
+be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I
+feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling
+to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another
+how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic
+thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will
+cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he
+wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more
+than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes
+and groves of trees.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+BLUE HILL.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that
+blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy
+life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers
+with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by
+only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and
+smiles upon me even here.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>Bloom, little flower, all the way along,</div>
+<div>Sing to us travelers your own quiet song,</div>
+<div>Speak to us softly, gently, and low,</div>
+<div>Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know?</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it
+so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of
+trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of
+the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+AYR
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Was but a small town, so we go on to <span class="sc">Hastings</span>, a town of over
+5,000 inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six
+miles west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The
+B. &#38; M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it
+was not a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St.
+Joe &#38; Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point
+in the following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W.
+Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors
+of the St. Jo. &#38; D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same
+year, the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now,
+the salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the
+state for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is
+nicely built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from
+fires. I notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep
+here. The surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking
+good.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are
+all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all.
+I notice the churches are well attended.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and,
+as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better
+my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken
+stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that
+condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I
+cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good
+young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was
+intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any
+one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such
+a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as
+this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he
+passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all
+for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most
+insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is
+Sunday.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+CRETE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue
+river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant,
+shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy
+retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre
+of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds
+of the N.S.S.A.A.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+LINCOLN.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to
+watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when
+I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking
+through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind
+upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I
+didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he
+had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am
+only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him
+I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for
+me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my
+friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I
+thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had
+a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on.
+After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one
+of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them
+another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as
+they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday.</i> Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without
+it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your
+baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about
+it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for
+this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had."
+"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would
+replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and
+button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will
+never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never
+replace. No, I <i>must</i> not lose it!" And then I stole away and went
+to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that
+help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and
+as I prayed this lesson came to me&#8212;How alarmed I am over the loss of a
+little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when
+so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and
+each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read
+and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things.
+And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good,
+nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would
+just take a good cry over it, and&#8212;but won't I hug my dusty satchels if
+I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I
+supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for
+me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie
+took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the
+nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so
+slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But
+I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a
+minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the
+depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble,
+but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the
+faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I
+turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage,
+little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my
+fan. "Oh dear, I am <i>so</i> glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my
+satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to
+give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting
+attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch
+my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to
+do better.&#8212;I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a
+thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the
+Republican valley, and then about my baggage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old
+lady, and must go and see to it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both
+gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Nothing; I did not know you had found it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The conductor carried it away."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where did he go to?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't know, Miss."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had
+followed me. "What's gone?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, my baggage; it's gone again."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in
+here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov.
+Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all
+carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad,
+and a good lesson learned.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at
+Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July
+20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this
+table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under
+the B. &#38; M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are
+as follows:
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Divisions and mileage">
+<tr>
+<td>Pacific Junction to Kearney</td>
+<td class="right">196</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Omaha line</td>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nebraska City to Central City</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nebraska City to Beatrice</td>
+<td class="right">92</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Atchison to Columbus</td>
+<td class="right">221</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Crete to Red Cloud</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Table Rock to Wymore</td>
+<td class="right">38</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hastings to Culbertson</td>
+<td class="right">171</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Denver Extension</td>
+<td class="right">244</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford</td>
+<td class="right">77</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Chester to Hebron</td>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>DeWitt to West Line</td>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Odell to Washington, Kan.</td>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nemaha to Salem</td>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the
+C.B. &#38; Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous
+"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between
+Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management,
+tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are
+entirely avoided.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at
+the head of the B. &#38; M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent,
+while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. &#38; M.R.R.
+Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct
+all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His
+thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having
+spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for
+this office.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+MILFORD.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue"
+river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of
+thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and
+sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr.
+Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I
+was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs.
+Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who
+located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in
+'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by
+the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town
+that afterward grew up about him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made
+very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land
+of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through
+the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers
+and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the
+common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due
+west of the capital, on the B. &#38; M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr.
+Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is
+now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies.
+Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes
+and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a
+log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A
+saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at
+hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his
+flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none
+other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of
+the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs.
+Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from
+her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were
+competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and
+I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a
+broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away
+captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was
+very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies
+high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then
+winding down canyon Seata, <i>little</i> canyon, we crossed the River
+to the Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm,
+hickory, and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines&#8212;one
+we measured being sixteen inches in circumference&#8212;while a cottonwood
+measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor
+where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the
+Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its
+shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But
+pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling
+Springs."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring
+flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay
+into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes,
+but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened
+rock.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine
+for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the
+running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house
+in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in
+'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and
+gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley
+<cite>Record</cite>." Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the
+"<cite>Congregational News</cite>" in '78.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The "Milford <cite>Ozone</cite>" is the leading organ of the day, so named
+for the health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as
+postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via
+Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J.
+H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was
+established.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a
+large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of
+300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross
+the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a
+view of the new town of <span class="sc">East Milford</span> laid out on an eighty
+acre plot that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It
+is a private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly
+favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of
+the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside
+home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot
+and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet
+found in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="V">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER V.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ctrsmallchpt">
+NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived
+from the Indian <i>ne</i> (water) and <i>bras</i> (shallow), and means
+shallow water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to
+208 from north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that
+lie between parallels 40&#176; and 43&#176; north latitude, and 18&#176; and 27&#176; west
+longitude.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the
+original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only
+herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854,
+"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made
+it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for
+its motto "<i>Equality before the Law</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The governors of Nebraska territory were:
+</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Francis Burt, 1854.</li>
+<li>T. B. Cuming, 1854-5.</li>
+<li>Mark W. Izard, 1855-8.</li>
+<li>W. A. Richardson, 1858.</li>
+<li>J. S. Morton, 1858-9.</li>
+<li>Samuel W. Black, 1859-61.</li>
+<li>Alvin Saunders, 1861-6.</li>
+<li>David Butler, 1866-7.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Of the state&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>David Butler, 1867-71.</li>
+<li>William H. James, 1871-3.</li>
+<li>Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5.</li>
+<li>Silas Garber, 1875-9.</li>
+<li>Albinus Nance, 1879-83.</li>
+<li>James W. Dawes, 1883.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Allow me to quote from the <cite>Centennial Gazetteer of United
+States</cite>:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">Surface.</span>&#8212;Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends
+along the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down
+toward the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating.
+There are no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed
+mountains. The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous
+loam, which is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in
+deeply eroded valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest
+fertility, which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar,
+ash, and other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie.
+Late surveys establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom
+lands is from 13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">The climate</span> of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of
+other states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The
+mean annual temperature varies from 47&#176; in the northern sections to 57&#176;
+in the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part
+of the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the
+westerly winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress
+the thermometer to 20&#176; and sometimes 30&#176; below zero; while in the
+summer a temperature of 100&#176; and over is not unusual. In the southern
+tier of counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76&#188;&#176;, and of
+winter, 30&#189;&#176;. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30
+inches) falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall
+steadily decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the
+western counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the
+state.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">Population.</span>&#8212;Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and
+in 1870, 122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States,
+including 18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population
+numbered 30,748.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">Education.</span>&#8212;Nebraska has more organized schools, more school
+houses, and those of a superior character; more money invested in
+buildings, books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the
+same age. The land endowed for the public schools embraces
+one-eighteenth of the entire area of the state&#8212;2,623,080 acres." The
+school lands are sold at not less than seven dollars per acre, which
+will yield a fund of not less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from
+six to ten per cent interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre.
+The principal is invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished
+while the interest and income alone is used.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly
+supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable
+and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in
+Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the
+Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength.
+The Catholic church is fully represented.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest
+percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second.
+Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write;
+Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write.
+Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United
+States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of
+the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at
+the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its
+salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the
+air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low
+temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong,
+cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but
+17&#176;, and of the summer 70&#176;.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in
+general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern
+people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not
+accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year&#8212;since
+which time there has been rapid developments&#8212;will speak volumes for
+the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an
+increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828
+in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933
+to 452,542, nearly four-fold.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its
+capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a
+population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square
+mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a
+population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would
+have 17,480,000 people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874
+to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per
+year. In 1883 there was raised in the state:
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Grain product">
+<tr>
+<td>Wheat</td>
+<td class="right">27,481,300.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Corn</td>
+<td class="right">101,276,000.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Oats</td>
+<td class="right">21,630,000.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>
+Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has
+prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up
+to Nov. 13, 1883:
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Crop reports">
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Corn, yield per acre</td>
+<td class="right">41 bushels.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">85 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Potatoes, Irish</td>
+<td class="right">147 bushels.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">109 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Potatoes, sweet</td>
+<td class="right">114 bushels.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">111 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Hay, average tame and wild</td>
+<td class="right">2 tons per a.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">107 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Sorghum, yield per acre</td>
+<td class="right">119 gallons.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Grapes, yield and quality</td>
+<td class="right">88 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Apples, yield and quality</td>
+<td class="right">97 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Pears, yield and quality</td>
+<td class="right">52 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Condition of orchards</td>
+<td class="right">100 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Spring wheat threshed at date</td>
+<td class="right">82 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>
+Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for
+market, Dec. 1.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a
+total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised
+annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and
+250,000 sheep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring
+the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000
+inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into
+the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor
+dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done
+by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven
+intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the
+least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the
+state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a
+population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own
+at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or
+proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall
+come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her
+husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall
+remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage,
+and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for
+his debts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt
+contracted by the wife before marriage."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail
+transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two
+years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was
+about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations
+were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft.
+Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.;
+Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers
+left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month;
+carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two
+years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from
+St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in
+sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now
+Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising
+people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that
+enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new
+country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after
+while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of
+ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west
+by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a
+strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to
+learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept
+and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear
+great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the
+forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their
+children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has
+furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good
+idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day,
+and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general
+hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska
+could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+LINCOLN.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at
+Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of
+State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and
+locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present
+<i>capital</i> site was chosen&#8212;then a wild waste of grasses, where a
+few scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that
+once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster
+post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the
+Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide"
+between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and
+broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public
+buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom
+Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state,
+a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and
+founded a paper town and called it Lancaster.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was
+as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the
+state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all
+the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the
+commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the
+summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer,
+which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few
+and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale
+of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he
+received his wages&#8212;$300&#8212;he remarked that he would not give his pay
+for the whole town site.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100
+houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67,
+but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in
+January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was
+realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State
+University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all
+other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The
+post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national
+government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were
+reserved for the B. &#38; M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot
+is a large brick building 183&#215;53 and three stories high, with lunch
+room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room,
+and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices
+on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily
+carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway
+accommodations.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were
+given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature,
+which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was
+organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman
+Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69;
+Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A
+number have since been added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">The State Journal Co.</span> On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day
+following the announcement that Lancaster was <i>the place</i> for the
+capital site there appeared in the <cite>Nebraska City Press</cite> a
+prospectus for the publication of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be
+called the <cite>Nebraska Commonwealth</cite>, C. H. Gere, Editor. But
+not until the latter part of Nov. did it have an established office in
+the new city. In the spring of '69 the <cite>Commonwealth</cite> was
+changed to the Nebraska <cite>State Journal</cite>. As a daily it was
+first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B. &#38; M.R.R. ran its
+first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage coaches that had
+been the only means of transportation to the capital. In '82 the State
+Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new building on the
+corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and brick, four
+stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The officers are C.
+H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R. Clark, Sec., and H.
+D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125 hands. Beside the
+<cite>Journal</cite> are the <cite>Democrat</cite> and
+<cite>News</cite>, daily; the <cite>Nebraska Farmer</cite>,
+semi-monthly; the <cite>Capital</cite>, weekly; the <cite>Hesperian
+Student</cite>, monthly, published by the students of the University,
+and the <cite>Staats Anzeiger</cite>, a German paper, issued weekly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G
+street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and
+spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But
+Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in
+that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and
+about Lincoln.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of
+convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who
+had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act.
+Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready
+to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good
+behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step
+beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all
+the departments&#8212;the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where
+brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot
+mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and
+stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at
+the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of
+stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a
+prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4&#215;7 feet, and furnished
+with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to
+write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what
+they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read
+before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom
+are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their
+cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals
+together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives
+and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly
+to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the
+wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation.
+Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each
+other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not
+even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow
+neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until
+seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two
+or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a
+privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general
+hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at
+nine <span class="smc">A.M.</span>, they are marched in close file to the chapel,
+where Rev. Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and
+New York, gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and
+Him Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian
+doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within
+prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of
+their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's
+daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are
+readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the
+dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his
+services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars,
+the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron
+door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs,
+and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on
+the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left.
+They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to
+see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and
+there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked
+into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I
+have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to
+me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will
+always be watching to see what good men and women you make; great
+philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good
+ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice,
+honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President
+sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your
+name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll
+be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their
+innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised
+to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture
+before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy&#8212;a God not only
+to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are
+here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin
+with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched
+drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be
+men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God
+will punish the <i>cause</i>, while man calls the effect to account.
+For my part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest
+drunkard from the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest
+liquor dealer in the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he
+deals out, and that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of
+ruined souls, souls for which he will have to answer for before the
+Great Judge who never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt
+by a jury.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt
+we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday.</i> About two <span class="smc">P.M.</span> the sky was suddenly darkened
+with angry looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they
+grew more threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not
+anxious to witness a cyclone, but if one <i>must</i> come, I wanted to
+watch its coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the
+clouds rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and
+we drove out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck
+of a brick building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy
+fall of hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some
+places. This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state.
+[ERRATA. Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited"
+read "Nebraska is <i>not</i> visited." Third line from bottom leave out
+the word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as
+some suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep
+over some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind
+that I was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather
+than does Pennsylvania.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very
+oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday</i> we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and
+drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has
+many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine
+view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over
+housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many
+beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120
+feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks,
+five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk
+proper&#8212;built of stone, brick, or plank&#8212;and the remaining eleven feet
+are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The streets running north and south are numbered from first to
+twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Saturday evening&#8212;a beautiful moonlight night&#8212;just such a night as
+makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has
+been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the
+mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know
+if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be
+aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because
+I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a
+neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over <i>after dark</i>. All saddled,
+Fanny waits at the door, and I must go.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back&#8212;I'll
+telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am
+told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have
+only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for&#8212;but a
+happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>One by one her feet are lifted,</div>
+<div class="i1">One by one she sets them down;</div>
+<div>Step by step we leave the gatepost,</div>
+<div class="i1">And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle,</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you
+cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My
+thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly.
+But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night,
+and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak&#8212;<i>if I ever reached
+the foot of the mountain</i>,&#8212;that I did not notice that Fanny had
+crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post.
+Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but
+she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg
+him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were
+created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow,
+cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie
+Keefer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does it eat?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but
+Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was
+asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln.
+Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed
+strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in
+among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and
+cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship.
+They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief,
+requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist
+church, to come and baptise their infants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind,
+but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so
+earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I
+wore an expression of pity instead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and
+seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of
+their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son
+of Africa arose and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for
+about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And
+Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat
+rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called
+sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit
+by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake
+bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of
+time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my
+time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in
+prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands,
+and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a
+continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the
+prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard.
+One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by
+bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too
+large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while
+she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing,
+if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only
+hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing
+in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it
+was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word
+long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way.
+It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description,
+and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing
+short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was
+very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with
+the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table
+and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride
+and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men
+stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put
+down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could
+not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down,
+and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a
+piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister
+closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander
+would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if
+de Lord am willin, I'll be here too."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with
+an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening
+found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to
+speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text
+am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua
+commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great
+wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by
+blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book
+of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de
+Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat
+moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine
+it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll
+give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de
+smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and
+not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky
+mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I
+heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful,
+and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is
+expended."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while
+we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be
+drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true
+representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four
+long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such
+utter ignorance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been
+"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="VI">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER VI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The
+Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;The conclusion.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont.
+Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last
+Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of
+what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the
+storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At
+Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a
+couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed
+to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and
+Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first
+person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before
+she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come
+to meet me, Mrs. Euber?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr.
+Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the
+previous week.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received
+your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a
+great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you
+didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him,
+promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found
+he had not eaten them all&#8212;which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called
+on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I
+learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook
+my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey
+home, and find your dear mother well!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing
+better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch
+acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we
+meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are
+stored away for future reference, in quiet hours.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the
+thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my
+indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over
+level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed
+over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed
+their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said
+good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at
+Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri
+river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car
+where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and
+watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all
+those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have
+returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of
+Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged
+gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross
+the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be
+careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the
+shore."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the
+boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall
+into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed
+with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom&#8212;but
+we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy
+shores of Iowa.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going&#8212;of my visit at
+Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family&#8212;dear old friends of my
+grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield,
+Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow
+me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+July 30, 5:30 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> "Will you tell me, please, when we cross
+the Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we
+crossed the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the
+window and shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the
+hills and valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I
+thought there was an air of home in the breezes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at
+Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the
+depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months
+ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I
+gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright
+expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves
+as bright as these I gather?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear
+old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return
+again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall
+the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and
+esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent
+people it holds within its arms.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in
+a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I
+have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months'
+stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot
+have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the
+little groggeries and make those who <i>will</i> have it, pay the
+highest price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a
+homestead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too
+dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and
+wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do
+they?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B.
+over the R. &#38; P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants
+of the car.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"At the &#8212;&#8212; (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve
+a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any
+good."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down
+to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where
+everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose
+those young dandies are "Oil Princes"&#8212;"Coal Oil Johnnies," you
+know&#8212;and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for
+their fun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels
+as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew
+my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take
+the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in
+waiting and only one carriage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Go to the &#8212;&#8212;, lady?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the
+ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge,
+past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open
+saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an
+eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm
+and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I
+guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an
+elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my
+imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that
+He had brought me safely so near home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Seventy-five cents."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please
+take fifty?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents
+on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not
+help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several
+little extras I had met with had taken about all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him
+at the breakfast table.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of
+rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size,
+but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to
+you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of
+snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that
+glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig
+and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I
+wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and
+how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere
+else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the
+great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the
+many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark."
+They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond
+description.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester &#38; Pittsburgh R.R. for
+DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then
+out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of
+trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard
+Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is
+dumped down in wild confusion here&#8212;mountains and valleys, hills and
+hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones,
+trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed
+with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters
+and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations,
+but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of
+derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills&#8212;but now we are 17
+miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is
+the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment
+to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302
+feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of
+silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever
+again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I
+feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the
+honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle,"
+never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and
+exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience
+the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks
+at either side, and the cars run very slow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen
+excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great
+valley&#8212;its noble trees untouched&#8212;and allow it to forever remain as
+one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful
+mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500
+feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond
+description, so are the mountains.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the
+plains and stood upon the mountain peaks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but
+enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the
+plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His
+children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged
+mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the
+most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Arrived at DuBois 5 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> This road has only been in use since
+in June, and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to
+see the trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in
+hand, and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood
+Francis watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but
+when he recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on
+before to tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I
+reached the "wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister
+Maggie, and were not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy!
+and the new moon looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were
+glad, happy days, but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a
+few days. Norval to go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his
+daughter home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your
+wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking
+than when she went away," Maggie said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home,
+through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land,
+the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and
+we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat
+from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I
+thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a
+mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a
+shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and
+something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help
+comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little
+western town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we
+go, until we cross Little Mahoning&#8212;bless its bright waters!&#8212;and once
+more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town&#8212;the snuggest, dearest
+little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I
+wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles
+farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays
+aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau,"
+and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the
+gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its
+rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip
+through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase
+Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and
+her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the
+meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't
+leave you soon again!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the
+house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we
+frightened Emma and Harry into a cry.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she
+strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the
+friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear
+mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries,
+and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how
+good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at
+my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see
+and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel"
+was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit
+Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May,
+shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed&#8212;but
+where is Will?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Out at the oats field?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see
+him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back
+field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go
+through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down
+goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As we trudge down the hill, I said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your
+farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a
+scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will
+endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they
+could go along I would like to try life in the West."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book
+out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when
+mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed
+look:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some
+huckleberries for supper."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put
+aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the
+huckleberries are gathered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Seated again&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while
+Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while
+I make a corn cutter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand
+that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly
+turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then,
+"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn
+cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it
+be a time of peace."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the
+latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt
+Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly
+turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my
+sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on
+the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover
+puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr
+to kisses&#8212;I mean baby kisses?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came
+the apples&#8212;golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown.
+And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I
+finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The
+cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and
+although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the
+thermometer says 20&#176; below, yet all I have to do is to take up a
+cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the
+slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all
+over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and
+mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone
+Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though
+I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks.
+Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the
+"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day
+lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of
+faith and trust.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for
+the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left
+Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. &#38; P.R.R. The country along
+this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary
+winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet
+piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan
+Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave
+Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I
+will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We
+approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge,
+about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the
+whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The
+river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet
+deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225
+feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch
+only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing
+quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the
+bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south
+we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the
+train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again.
+Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and
+see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more
+favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly
+by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I
+am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of
+the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet
+of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our
+view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can
+do justice to Niagara Falls.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or
+leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil
+is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New
+York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected
+farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit
+river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only
+see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to
+the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not
+get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday
+morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five
+days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some
+of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the
+people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good
+old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of
+the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of
+vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering
+up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought,
+Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and
+earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln
+Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright
+day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the
+panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything
+about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to
+corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look
+for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that
+I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among
+the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked
+upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the
+artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday
+morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the
+Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over
+the C. &#38; N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go
+over the C.B. &#38; Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I
+left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road
+that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land
+in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the
+Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is
+night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view.
+Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it
+is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the
+Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln,
+arriving there at 12 <span class="smc">M.</span> March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's
+again just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and
+my welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home
+with them during my stay in Lincoln.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr.
+Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms
+satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year
+from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book
+began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of
+it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of
+hard labor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work,
+kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of
+discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the
+labor it involves."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work
+cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden
+in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all
+through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put
+it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at
+the last."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Did He forsake me," do you ask?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in
+Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their
+name down without hesitation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What security do you want of me?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many
+prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands
+would be reached out to me."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so
+keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it
+to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his
+confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness
+such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday, May 9th.</i> I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my
+dear aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father
+spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome
+me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was
+afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the
+water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said:
+"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just
+now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me
+this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of
+sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84
+with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up
+to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror
+of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the
+sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the
+leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other
+May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my
+May-day in the old familiar places.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford,
+and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction,
+friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I
+thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in <i>my</i> "Diary
+of a Minister's Wife," I bid you <span class="sc">Good-Bye</span>.
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<div class="image"><img width="600" height="417" src="images/map.jpg" alt="map">
+<p class="caption">
+FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R.
+AND CONNECTIONS,<br>TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<br>
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="ctr">
+Transcriber's Note:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have been retained as
+printed.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44688 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
+
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+
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+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #44688 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44688)
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+Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: To and Through Nebraska
+
+Author: Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
+Release Date: January 17, 2014 [EBook #44688]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA ***
+
+
+
+
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+generously made available by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected
+without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have
+been retained as printed. Words printed in italics are noted with
+underscores: _italics_.
+
+
+
+
+TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+
+
+BY
+
+A Pennsylvania Girl.
+
+THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT TRUTH
+IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS,
+WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG
+JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO
+
+_The Author_,
+
+FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON.
+
+
+LINCOLN, NEB.
+JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS,
+1884.
+
+
+
+
+A WORD TO THE READER.
+
+
+If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual
+Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and
+triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and
+valleys, read Chapter I.
+
+Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, Chapter II.
+
+Of the great Platte valley, Chapter III.
+
+Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, Chapter IV.
+
+Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and
+liquor laws, and Capital, Chapter V.
+
+If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the
+world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, Chapter VI.
+
+
+And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand _just
+why_ this little book--if such it may be called, came to be written.
+We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a
+Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it
+more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown
+in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned
+lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give
+everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch
+upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a
+stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the
+state from Dakota to Kansas--306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the
+U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the
+state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip
+and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you
+read ONLY TRUTH.
+
+My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement;
+and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My
+parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing
+the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and
+rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882,
+and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was
+anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my
+youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself--claimants
+must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I
+promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and
+intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one
+years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the
+pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus
+far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch,
+sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not
+deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet
+I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many
+times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him
+in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry,
+would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered
+with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was
+ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his
+was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the
+power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well
+arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far
+north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go
+there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they
+wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they
+would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably
+detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple
+of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could
+depend for care it was decided that I should go.
+
+When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a
+"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as
+a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like
+fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I
+never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines
+were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and
+features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows:
+
+A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The
+squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good,
+sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true,
+who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from
+death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians.
+
+The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from
+his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the
+old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a
+better life in a new home."
+
+Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or
+locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack
+mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I
+had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to
+my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had
+written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story
+would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack
+in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book.
+
+Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross?
+and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done?
+
+"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book
+in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes
+lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned
+from books, and then the book will be--only a little pamphlet after all.
+
+
+
+
+THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford,
+Pa., in Northern Nebraska--A Description of the Country in which
+they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha
+Valleys--Their First Summer's Work and Harvest.
+
+
+True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to
+begin this with words of love of our own native land,--the state of all
+that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest
+to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one
+vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams
+abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a
+peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to
+become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union.
+
+Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain
+ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of
+golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil
+that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told--affording her children
+the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in
+until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go
+out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new
+homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers
+lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony
+for all mankind."
+
+Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a
+pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by
+Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and
+west branches of the Tunagwant--or Big Cove--Creek, and hid away from
+the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in
+1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the
+valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was
+transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and
+selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth,
+until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and,
+forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that
+has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in
+all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class
+money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told
+from a member of the Standard Oil Company.
+
+Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass
+quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes,
+with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free,
+social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be
+suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and
+operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live
+for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time
+and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of
+living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to
+carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune
+sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only
+for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the
+valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work
+of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are
+yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show
+innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks
+rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a
+feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged
+hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly
+burning, which livens the darkest night.
+
+Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and
+like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning.
+Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and
+spent their money even more lavishingly than it came--so often counting
+on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing
+and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil,
+when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from
+territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to
+reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then
+new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured
+many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the
+deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new
+fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000
+inhabitants.
+
+Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And
+to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great
+excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not
+only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with
+the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing
+their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil.
+
+Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their _all_;
+dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would
+sell and realize a fortune in a few hours.
+
+Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the
+wealth the day would bring.
+
+What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day
+advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the
+"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top.
+So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and
+happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny,
+and often more than their own were swept.
+
+Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they
+had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces
+there, but faces that were _green_ with despair. This was only one
+day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is
+"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But
+when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it.
+
+Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at
+last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the
+country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The
+Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of
+Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A
+colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received
+so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in
+attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week
+after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they
+numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the
+year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws.
+Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed
+must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee;
+but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of
+which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray
+expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and
+lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public
+buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots--a business and
+residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of
+remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within
+a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of
+spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage.
+Also the keeping of gambling houses."
+
+On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered
+seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location.
+
+The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear
+their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in
+northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general
+wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of
+Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed,
+and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian
+reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the
+choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where
+nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of
+many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after
+many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was
+arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and
+Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April
+appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists.
+
+We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains
+of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when
+anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high
+for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager
+pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and
+landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where?
+
+We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only
+those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold
+kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize
+what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty,
+and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would
+bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of
+the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can
+know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some
+of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county,
+chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to
+Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making
+and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than
+when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more
+substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or
+monopoly.
+
+The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done,
+homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many
+sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday
+morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but
+it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the
+going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those
+left behind.
+
+And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the
+exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and
+joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were
+companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye"
+hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving
+those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father
+and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left
+behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by
+long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long
+letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home.
+
+One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the
+hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they
+as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying
+all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all
+just to keep back the sobs and tears.
+
+Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated
+many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must
+go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load
+of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping
+of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we
+were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle
+westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we
+received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left
+behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure
+snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is
+heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears
+until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity,
+even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it
+seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking
+back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled
+with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the
+cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of
+hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among
+the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of.
+
+But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and
+busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging
+everything for comfort sake.
+
+This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends,
+which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one
+bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil
+and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home?
+
+Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a
+number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow
+them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all
+the good things a lunch basket can be stored with.
+
+When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua,
+now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom
+people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most
+popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles
+wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville,
+we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to
+speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would
+call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose
+their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we
+rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the
+childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball
+so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the
+last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would
+slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of
+Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points,
+we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all
+sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony
+babe.
+
+Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad
+farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and
+jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed
+to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the
+children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the
+racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing
+Cleveland--leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city
+and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight
+hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn
+with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears,
+such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind
+lines I then had written:
+
+ Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers,
+ Your loveliness we'll strew
+ From Washington to Cleveland's soil,
+ The funeral cortege through.
+ In that loved land that gave him birth
+ We lay him down to rest,
+ 'Tis but his mangled form alone,
+ His soul is with the blest.
+ Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist
+ With many a falling tear,
+ A mist is over all this land
+ For him we loved most dear.
+
+ "Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing;
+ In mournful strains and slow,
+ While in the tomb we gently lay,
+ Our martyred Garfield low.
+
+Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but
+rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take
+up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled
+down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may
+be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who
+never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we
+leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting
+hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr.
+Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee
+pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's
+generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup,
+until he is now rinsing the grounds.
+
+Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain
+would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word
+we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than
+all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest
+comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand
+almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains
+and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since
+childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first
+loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind.
+'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a
+better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the
+same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of
+the world.
+
+When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were
+surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white
+sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill
+to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant
+to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large
+and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were
+quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of
+the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area,
+24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88
+miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled
+in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we
+bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on,
+with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only
+to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago.
+
+The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a
+decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around
+by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing
+his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but
+little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house,
+which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The
+Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats,
+being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It
+made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were
+anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of
+humanity.
+
+I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not
+sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R.,
+and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty
+flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands
+and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of
+Illinois--rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or
+stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing
+everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board,
+barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing
+green.
+
+The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far
+apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors.
+
+Crossed the Mississippi river about four P.M., and when mid-way over
+was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and about a mile
+in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off the old grass,
+which was a novel sight to us.
+
+Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark
+just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see.
+
+Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more
+like a delegation from "Blackville"--from the soot and cinder-dirt--than
+a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a
+camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three
+o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by
+moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into
+the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East
+miss the rough, rugged hills of home!
+
+The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,--as one remarked, "not from
+behind a hill, but right out of the ground"--ushering in another
+beautiful day.
+
+At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to
+see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer
+boats--three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was
+leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull
+lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and
+have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we
+never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore
+in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but
+"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand.
+Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not
+use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of
+a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point,
+the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned.
+When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had
+a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east
+to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level
+lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for
+the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet
+we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within.
+Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no
+other home.
+
+To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who
+would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it
+certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us
+who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not
+expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more
+devoted to the old home than before.
+
+We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they
+had not helped to bear us on their bosom to--we did not know what. How
+little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no
+rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters."
+Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the
+waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the
+world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out
+on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on
+just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores
+that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the
+voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and
+thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be
+more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast
+adrift upon the sea of _our_ life; and though they may be tempest
+tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost.
+
+When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and
+switched on to Nebraska's _terra firma_.
+
+Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place,
+but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered
+westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger
+agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he
+fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he
+represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of
+Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had
+just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for
+"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many
+were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we
+flattered ourselves that we _did_ well sustain the old family
+honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded
+Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in
+which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us.
+Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you
+all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm
+and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a
+day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at
+a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather
+half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was
+sung out, and we were on with the rest--to go calling and visit with
+our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the
+monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of
+the cars.
+
+One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string;
+mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt
+I was going only to soon leave them--they to scatter over the plains,
+and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a
+mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received
+a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down
+the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we
+had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as
+they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play.
+
+Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we
+reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from
+the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He
+received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed
+in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days'
+journey.
+
+Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the
+claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly
+had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with
+him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again.
+
+I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already
+be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead
+grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire,
+and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground--it has the same
+rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west
+we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and
+sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us
+when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and
+what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of
+fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses
+far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses.
+
+We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw
+this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who
+had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the
+prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his
+luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped
+at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be
+cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of
+"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but
+were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the
+car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I
+hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west?
+I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our
+tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with
+the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were
+not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of
+such an act.
+
+About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station,
+Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors
+locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our
+first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our
+coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a
+good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and
+could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a
+comfortable resting place for the night.
+
+We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air
+of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like
+birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their
+nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists
+expected to find their nests of homes.
+
+But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark
+that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had
+to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the
+songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a
+mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader,
+the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took
+right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after
+the smoke had cleared away, looked--and--well--we missed paper and
+pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown
+that followed.
+
+A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of
+Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind
+of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost
+among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and
+stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to
+breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to
+note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote
+down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will
+sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until
+breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something--I didn't
+know what, but full of curiosity went to see.
+
+A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that
+arrived last night?"
+
+"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is."
+
+"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time."
+
+"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky."
+
+It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming
+implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went
+to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as
+ox-plows were concerned.
+
+What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey,
+and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast
+before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made
+an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if
+the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on
+to--reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole
+truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of
+the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey
+better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do
+you think of a climate like that?
+
+But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales,
+and in reality we had only eaten--I mean we had only gained one and a
+half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper
+were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity.
+
+When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there
+trying to sleep.
+
+"Home-sick?" we asked.
+
+"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night."
+
+No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home.
+
+First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the
+depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location.
+
+The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad
+through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to
+secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being
+claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the
+morrow.
+
+The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be
+seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the
+evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above
+his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with
+the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening.
+
+_Saturday morning._ Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the men
+started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and
+ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded
+with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who
+were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away.
+
+But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was
+the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that
+western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers
+of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town.
+But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and
+wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival.
+Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to
+anxious ones in the East.
+
+In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie,
+about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the
+river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely
+turned already and didn't know the town I had just left.
+
+The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and
+is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water
+is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook
+and line, spears and seine are used instead.
+
+Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked,
+yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there
+is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the
+streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops,
+and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,--cross
+I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know
+what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear
+what Prof. Aughey says:
+
+"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state.
+It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley
+widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and
+often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river
+approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into
+the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its
+course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall,
+and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable
+manufacturing region."
+
+We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we
+made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not
+have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the
+water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while
+the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some
+places its bed.
+
+Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it
+quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high;
+plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white;
+roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of
+the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had
+a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and
+walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out.
+
+The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a
+frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the
+shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the
+bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened
+with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it
+down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves
+the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at
+first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many
+inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water
+from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is
+easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water.
+
+The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight.
+But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you,
+forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills
+fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly
+sod, dot the surrounding country.
+
+_Monday, 30th._ Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little sunshine.
+For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought and found a
+very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John Skirving, of
+whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought his family
+from Jefferson City, Iowa.
+
+_Tuesday._ A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes through
+everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters in camp
+near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with nothing
+but their tent for shelter.
+
+_Wednesday._ About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have
+snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine
+rain.
+
+Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at
+home.
+
+_Thursday._ And still it rains and blows!
+
+_Friday._ A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I got out
+of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther west,
+and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to me I
+scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down and
+quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed in
+the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I
+hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing
+had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise
+than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to
+make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that
+I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I
+had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half
+expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared
+away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so
+dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that
+the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon
+dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty
+dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day.
+
+_Saturday._ Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The majority
+in good heart and looking well despite the weather and exposure they
+have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few are
+discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere.
+
+They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still
+farther northwest--some going as far west as Holt creek, and so
+scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a
+disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the
+same church and school would serve them all.
+
+Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily,
+through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the
+colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been
+claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located
+more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more
+deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was
+purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be
+a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top,
+which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the
+wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and
+hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again,
+and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers.
+
+Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles
+in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and
+then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office
+and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there
+was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend
+the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim,
+hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see
+a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his.
+
+Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it.
+
+_Sunday, 6 May._ Bright and warm. Would not have known there had
+been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely
+dried, and walking pleasant.
+
+A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon,
+and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the
+Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it
+quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even
+here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our
+attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going,
+and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on
+this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly.
+
+The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness:
+"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn
+valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their
+presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be
+sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with
+thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him
+we can look for care and protection at all times.
+
+In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on
+temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people,
+as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in
+"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from
+"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the
+same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we
+had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare
+to think how far we were from its shelter.
+
+But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his
+love is just the same the wide world over.
+
+_Monday._ Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the
+location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but
+themselves to care for, have started.
+
+_Tuesday._ Rains. Folks disappointed.
+
+_Wednesday._ Rains and blows. Discouraging.
+
+_Thursday._ Blows and rains. _Very_ discouraging.
+
+The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season.
+Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in
+some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard
+frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the
+colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in
+comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know
+where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build
+their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their
+families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I
+cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I
+am greatly in sympathy with them.
+
+With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I
+feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes."
+Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the
+land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I
+am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds
+with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson
+county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me
+some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I
+have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every
+kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home;
+in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give
+every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on
+my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own
+care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I
+trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and
+protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while
+I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew
+before--though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my
+appetite, as well as the climate--yet every one experiences an increase
+of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called
+"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft
+beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his
+complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the
+eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and
+wherever it found him.
+
+_Friday._ Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off.
+
+It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a
+prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at
+night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The
+prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields
+of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow
+the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen
+some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter
+upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so
+long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to
+drive their cattle out to the "divides,"--hills between rivers--to
+pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on
+them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch
+a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her
+pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to
+scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have
+also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with
+the good.
+
+During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants
+keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara
+country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great
+hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every
+worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top.
+Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon,
+which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole
+in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with
+them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are
+generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the
+wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking,
+overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often
+patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and
+children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the
+rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that
+look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show
+they have had a good living where they came from.
+
+Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good
+education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright
+little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from
+Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving
+Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the
+country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon,
+spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her
+husband attended to several valuable Texas horses.
+
+Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three
+weeks."
+
+"How can you travel through such weather?"
+
+"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the
+rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down."
+
+"Never get sick?"
+
+"No."
+
+"Not even a cold?"
+
+"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started."
+
+"How many miles can you go in a day?"
+
+"We average about twenty."
+
+The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look
+healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of
+people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go
+whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure
+we owe the opening up of the western country.
+
+_Saturday morning._ Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared off
+nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All
+getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr.
+Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of
+oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the
+majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so,
+much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and
+left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double
+bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last
+week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by
+Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years.
+
+Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S.
+gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to
+bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off
+the currants.
+
+Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska
+behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I
+think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along.
+Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the
+wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool.
+
+Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and
+as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under
+the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them
+with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well
+trained by the time we reach the end of our journey.
+
+"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far
+we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We
+are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows
+running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road
+running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart,
+but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I
+see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and
+make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to
+pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt.
+The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another.
+
+Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile
+stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation,
+not even Stuart to be seen from this point.
+
+Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look
+out and perhaps I will find one.
+
+Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be
+a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it.
+Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right
+are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles
+away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves.
+
+The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the--oxen of
+about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy
+walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles,
+wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had
+tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new
+homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying
+supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo
+stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which
+gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its
+protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery
+and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time!
+
+Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real
+little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called,
+but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear
+water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland
+in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks _are_ sweeter for singing
+to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their foam,"
+and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to the many
+that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on the
+hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had reigned
+within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the walls
+falling.
+
+Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as
+the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for
+your sake, reader.
+
+Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that
+stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite
+new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother
+their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at
+least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie
+is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children!
+
+Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of
+the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back
+memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly
+written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims."
+All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put
+forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an
+undertaking for me.
+
+"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!"
+
+"Is what?"
+
+"Why, that stick for a whip-handle."
+
+I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had
+seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it.
+
+The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night
+at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to
+the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of
+way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am
+not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with
+travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady,
+though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we
+are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the
+few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen
+all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no
+bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and
+will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just
+shut my eyes until we are on the other side.
+
+There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to
+secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not
+disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite
+crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the
+setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of
+the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast
+this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the
+Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing
+most interesting.
+
+Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my
+barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name
+it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48°,
+think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair
+ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out.
+
+One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the
+banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and
+bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen,
+almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses
+the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock
+that juts out of the hill--first stone or rock seen since we entered
+the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man
+coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the
+hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help
+you gentlemen, but that off-horse is _terribly weak_. The other horse
+is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak that
+off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. While
+we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough to
+learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he was
+lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly who
+have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men push,
+but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. The men
+debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and carry them
+up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my
+suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk
+with, "That's it--only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and
+a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men,
+while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to
+go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble.
+
+When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk,
+as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill,
+across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with
+a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a
+narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond
+willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie
+schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very
+good harbor for these ships of the west.
+
+"What kind of a shanty is this?"
+
+"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't
+think worth while to light up in the evening."
+
+On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I
+can scarcely take another step.
+
+"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open
+door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered
+about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus."
+
+"No, just across the river where you see that light."
+
+Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel
+about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and _so glad_ to get to _somewhere_.
+
+Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly
+after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his
+hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here
+before dark.
+
+Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr.
+Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa.
+
+"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband.
+
+"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs.
+M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon.
+Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But
+Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take
+them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to
+all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good
+supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get
+laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new
+apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod
+roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on
+the floor, while the family occupies the old part.
+
+About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of
+the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently
+pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general
+uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of
+the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping
+into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said,
+"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer
+shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log
+house, 14×16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen,
+dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture,
+without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the
+family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and
+son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this
+old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the
+comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and
+dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened.
+The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men
+have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the
+house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the
+ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing
+over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking
+badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in.
+Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection.
+
+Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone
+Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion,
+but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm,
+so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled.
+
+The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing
+machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with
+carpet and rubber coats.
+
+How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and
+meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river--hope it is meat cast
+adrift for some hungry traveler--and some one has used my loaf for a
+cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So
+I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free
+from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted
+experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way.
+Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while
+the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and
+prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and
+went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons.
+
+The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the
+_hotel_ where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the shelter
+we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their wagons,
+and wonder where the rest of our party are.
+
+The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters
+makes us even more homesick.
+
+"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every
+thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I
+_do wish_ it would stop!" "When _will_ it clear off?" "Does it _always_
+rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of times, only to
+cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving sixteen souls
+crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. Just how was
+a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. Reader, I wish
+you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me by the stove, I
+then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you ever read Mark
+Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, there are a few
+_innocents abroad_, just now, _roughing it_ to their hearts' content.
+
+The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down
+crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some
+blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick,
+sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores.
+Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker--there, I knew she would rock on Mr.
+Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double
+up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a
+better chance.
+
+If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might
+perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be
+dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and
+then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do
+pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself
+fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a
+chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on
+two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie,
+you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers.
+
+Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before
+the stove, and list--he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me.
+
+Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a
+pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots
+and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that
+than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden
+pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if
+he doesn't stop nodding so far back.
+
+Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more
+words of Kathrina.
+
+Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the
+bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and
+crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been
+driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog,
+give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then;
+casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep,
+because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather
+scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of
+these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these
+sleepers must be kept warm.
+
+Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet
+and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does
+weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small
+as the unoccupied space, that's all.
+
+Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my
+eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the
+oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do?
+To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the
+floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get
+up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I
+leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that
+"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just
+as they can, mostly. So
+
+ All cuddled up together,
+ In a little weenty heap,
+ I double up my pillow
+ And laugh myself to sleep.
+ I know you will not blame me
+ If I dream of home so bright--
+ I'll see you in the morning
+ So now a kind "good night".
+
+As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt
+further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little
+bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is
+seeking rest for to-night.
+
+"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for
+breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep
+longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't
+always slept on a table?
+
+I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning,
+could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were
+sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are
+surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in
+almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension
+table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the
+dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this
+chapter.
+
+Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever
+regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge,"
+and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights'
+lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought
+they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor,
+to sleep.
+
+_Monday morning._ Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start
+about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies
+ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push
+them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight.
+
+But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in
+the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in
+the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on
+over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to
+snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head
+well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to
+start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the
+trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all
+sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking
+and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and
+pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try
+hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this
+bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I
+pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only
+variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a
+tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for
+several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost
+trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both
+of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that
+neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two
+squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces
+looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their
+situation.
+
+The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground
+soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near
+where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared
+their lands, the country took on a better appearance.
+
+The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that
+look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and
+very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if
+possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept
+up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How
+much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were
+ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a
+plow, and asked no more questions.
+
+"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross
+with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a
+signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open
+arms."
+
+And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married
+brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner.
+After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to
+the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara
+and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four P.M.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home
+until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us
+feel quite at home.
+
+Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well
+supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent"
+to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely:
+
+ "The sweetest songs are never sung;
+ The fairest pictures never hung;
+ The fondest hopes are never told--
+ They are the heart's most cherished gold."
+
+They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer,
+when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois
+City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L.
+added her beautiful children's stories.
+
+He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them,
+and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization.
+How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to
+read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists?
+
+_Tuesday, 15th of May_, dawned without a cloud, and how bright
+everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor
+backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change
+from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my
+May day, but the story is a long one--too long for the pages of my
+little book.
+
+And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to
+gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the
+hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of
+the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans,
+and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs
+were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were
+of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited
+the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful
+place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite
+homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every
+color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the
+Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success,
+after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house
+where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which,
+Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte,
+twelve miles west.
+
+Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close
+to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past
+the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss
+Minn to join our maying party.
+
+The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's
+growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with
+blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as
+they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered
+trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the
+valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most
+of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands
+alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20
+acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is
+covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of
+a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they
+are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others
+that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the
+touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had
+been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a
+shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but
+those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists;
+tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country
+were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and
+wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden
+treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a
+moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of
+dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I
+felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day,
+and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars,"
+for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will
+allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different.
+
+We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know
+where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite
+distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war
+whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the
+north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained
+from this elevated point was grand.
+
+A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the
+north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the
+water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs
+extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong
+to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but
+without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or
+rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance
+is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim
+takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a
+plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me
+the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's
+and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the
+sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone,
+to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel
+lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our
+many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in
+places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of
+spring?
+
+But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton,
+your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western
+girls would think of such a thing!"
+
+"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It
+was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th
+of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens,
+gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or
+have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the
+difference in the years to me.
+
+No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and
+the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of
+an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring
+in bloom, and I could not but gather of all--even the tiniest.
+
+The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and
+remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the
+previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not
+so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over
+the serious illness of a loved sister.
+
+I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers
+with tear-dimmed eyes--sister May was dead, and everywhere it was
+desolate.
+
+'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we
+gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen.
+
+In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy
+mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and
+miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that
+almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright.
+
+Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and
+shared them with May, by laying them on her grave.
+
+To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I
+celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost
+untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the
+favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks
+where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will
+gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so
+lonely thinking of their daughter so far away.
+
+The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle--sister
+Maggie's oldest child--who came to me for a May-flower in '76.
+
+But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was
+growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to
+gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love.
+
+Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears
+that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown,
+for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to
+me.
+
+"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live _good_ lives and yet not make the
+_most_ of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good and
+useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good and
+useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of the
+hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and
+prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now
+budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner."
+
+After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will
+be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone
+Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious
+mementos of our May-day in Nebraska.
+
+Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"--the
+term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance,
+and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a
+neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately
+come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the
+life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I
+tell these little things that those who do not already know, may
+understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere.
+
+Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie
+ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or _minnie_ in
+the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor
+woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a
+word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and
+then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright,
+pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a
+new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright
+and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a
+drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a
+half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least,
+the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky
+complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black
+braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears.
+Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could
+not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her
+face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus
+she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their _tepee_.
+The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two
+apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove,
+table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed
+covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen
+except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The
+furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and
+neatness I had not expected.
+
+The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to
+smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then
+drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf
+tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought,
+it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege
+lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband
+laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her.
+She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the
+lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left
+feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who
+would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor;
+labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw
+is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by
+those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by
+the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians
+are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing
+every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice,
+coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week.
+
+Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have
+no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as
+Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why
+not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the
+white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or
+die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to
+adopt!
+
+We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no
+one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better.
+
+When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in
+the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You
+don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led
+the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built,
+so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting
+to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag
+carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by
+being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had
+the partition been finished.
+
+The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were
+cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and
+looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected
+without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with
+my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare
+your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I
+long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for
+society."
+
+Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right
+out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience.
+
+I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and
+experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by
+friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs.
+W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known
+the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes
+overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost.
+Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock
+raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of
+their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and
+during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod,
+but of lumber.
+
+"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling
+here will help it so much, and now we will stay."
+
+Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing
+she had a taste for the beautiful.
+
+After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made
+our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the
+buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked
+like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a
+prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground
+homes.
+
+Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his
+house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to
+frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn
+toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more.
+
+Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six
+of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had
+joined them.
+
+The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we
+finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun,
+suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and
+where?
+
+Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to
+many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska.
+
+The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept
+hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms,
+and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want
+the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross
+over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs
+of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the
+colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well
+filled with weather stayed emigrants.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not
+come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday
+night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When
+daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along
+the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river
+and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the
+journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies
+dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned
+his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left
+Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with
+sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found
+for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C.
+
+Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned
+that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter
+prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what
+you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not
+expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country
+just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find
+the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would
+not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged
+when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt
+for your motto, "What _others_ have done _I_ can do." Allow me to give
+you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any of the
+colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the disadvantages
+of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April of '79 I came
+to this country to look up a home where I could have good cattle range.
+When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs crosswise to
+look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further west, but
+returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help of a young
+man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was under roof.
+While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made garden. We
+then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and came back
+in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two months' supply
+of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than Keya Paha,
+thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, was about
+the nearest house.
+
+"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon
+had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his
+reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail,
+that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to
+come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose
+reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number
+together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the
+government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat,
+and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is
+worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is
+strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them
+right on the war-path.
+
+"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made
+Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from
+Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time
+it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a
+distance of about sixty miles.
+
+"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school
+house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister
+(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha."
+
+Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of
+firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s
+father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower
+part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many
+a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of
+satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give
+them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on
+reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters
+have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without
+meeting a soul on the way.
+
+"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The
+Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid
+of them."
+
+It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to
+"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door.
+
+Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about
+seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr
+oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have
+over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell.
+
+Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and
+brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us
+took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent;
+went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of
+an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From
+the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet
+strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful
+frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's
+dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his
+blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower
+limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down.
+
+When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their
+meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant
+plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind
+of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with
+needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding
+their finger ends than was Mr. Clark.
+
+"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked.
+
+"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from
+drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about
+all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away,
+I can tell you."
+
+We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson
+from their experience--never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't
+hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it
+takes good strong material to stand the wind.
+
+In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the
+prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is
+indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving
+grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave
+great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new
+growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was
+not burnt.
+
+Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same
+time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive
+nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say,
+burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass
+roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy
+soil.
+
+These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees.
+Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often
+planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato
+patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To
+prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a
+supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of
+course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has
+passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a
+cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you.
+
+_Monday, 21st._ Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn
+planting.
+
+
+A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED.
+
+As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to
+be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be
+interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to,
+so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned
+and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that
+closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their
+broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on
+which cattle are grazing--that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo"
+(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as
+the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only
+to now and then take a stroll over it.
+
+The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half
+a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and
+then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called
+table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing
+line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth,
+where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here,
+thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet
+deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says
+"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the
+water is clear and pleasant to the taste.
+
+The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on
+the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and
+from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich.
+The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there
+are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak,
+elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in
+the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums,
+choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one
+has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size
+and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead
+of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom
+so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in
+great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines
+that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes"
+of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry,
+which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little
+white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a
+foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not
+choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they
+are pleasant to the taste and refreshing.
+
+Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black
+currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the
+snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are
+starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said
+to be equally as good as the poled hops of home.
+
+"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs.
+K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the
+buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum,
+and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in
+clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from
+the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in
+color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters,
+and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It
+belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as
+ordinary beans and eaten--if at starvation point. Of the other flowers
+gathered mention was made on my May-day.
+
+Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is
+easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet
+not very hard.
+
+About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other
+half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen
+inches to two feet deep.
+
+I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by
+those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are.
+"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing
+country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted
+with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far
+from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad
+nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be
+long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free
+from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in
+Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow
+tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want;
+no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we
+will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us
+to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little
+alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"--to
+scatter over--and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere.
+
+Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden
+and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all
+they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the
+building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber
+culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in
+cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly.
+
+There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in
+stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see
+it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a
+general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers
+will tell the story of its worth.
+
+I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I
+hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of
+an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so
+interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read.
+
+But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding
+away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down
+to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was
+anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy
+poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof
+for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have
+during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer
+nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while
+of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a
+dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and
+surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real
+to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man
+who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their
+herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as
+he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a
+half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma.
+I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?"
+
+"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was
+before I came west."
+
+The room was about 10×12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and
+part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made
+when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they
+lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on.
+
+To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude--so far
+removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the
+stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only
+retreats for the night.
+
+We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the
+Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and
+wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course,
+or else I am turned all wrong.
+
+_Tuesday._ Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to
+regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together,
+going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with
+a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh!
+I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she
+talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble
+monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no
+doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could
+do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under.
+
+Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and
+gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I
+felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as
+much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible.
+
+We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to
+Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K.
+and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been
+forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And
+Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted
+on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and
+improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a
+kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them
+all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and
+soon the little group of friends were left behind.
+
+I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to
+part from them?--Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people
+all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with
+them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the
+spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that
+the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our
+good plans could not be carried out.
+
+It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with
+eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even
+had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a
+nice settlement of people.
+
+The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance
+to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all
+together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just
+where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are
+only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many
+acres.
+
+One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no
+good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the
+unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose
+wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for
+the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over
+the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The
+tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses
+to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken.
+
+We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and
+the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may
+learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow
+and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up
+between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod
+with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you
+plant the next hill--I mean hole--of corn.
+
+One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and
+not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania
+roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of
+them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at
+last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry
+home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the
+prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles
+away up here!
+
+Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized
+sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as
+though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out
+or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and
+now the sea has all gone to grass.
+
+Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that
+I may have a better view.
+
+"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been
+made?"
+
+"Why, by the action of the wind and water."
+
+"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense
+scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape,
+size, and depth."
+
+Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren
+of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well
+filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar.
+
+Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on
+the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me
+for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and
+when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to
+some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way,
+I will take another ride behind oxen.
+
+Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for
+stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the
+maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those
+who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did
+not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle
+were stolen without personal regard for the owner.
+
+But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some
+time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still
+committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who
+feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose
+their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter
+from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses
+stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their
+favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's
+bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid
+me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more
+of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about?
+
+But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of
+other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and
+quite inviting after our long ride.
+
+After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or
+_Running Water_. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by,
+as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it
+empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it
+enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide;
+but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps
+in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses
+its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the
+Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a
+pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a
+couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my
+satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset
+picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for
+memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow
+stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered
+with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years
+ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river
+bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed
+heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills,
+and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their
+toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by
+this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack
+"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying:
+
+"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get
+near it."
+
+It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to
+settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the
+colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the
+land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame
+of the colony will people this country by many times the number of
+actual settlers it itself will bring.
+
+Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I
+attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet
+hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara,
+and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on
+toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful
+valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide,
+but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an
+interesting picture.
+
+There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side
+of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land
+on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are
+persuaded to test it.
+
+The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north
+side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more
+than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have
+sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call
+the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also
+the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink
+flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny
+flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only
+the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening,
+and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was
+not; but the leaves convinced me.
+
+I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the
+flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem
+to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the
+sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be
+found about Stuart when I left.
+
+We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and--"Oh, horror! Mr.
+Newell, look out for the red-skins!"
+
+"Where, Miss Fulton, where?"
+
+"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire
+to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some
+sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian
+blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare
+me scalp."
+
+Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for
+the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in
+suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first
+chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake
+you up.
+
+But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a
+prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted
+a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying
+to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a
+mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the
+bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as
+though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the
+"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies
+traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and
+all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of
+worldly goods along.
+
+They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation
+is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up
+government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good
+homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the
+land for the claiming of it.
+
+The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I
+have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am
+not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty
+welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner."
+
+
+THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST.
+
+It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier,
+and not tell more of them.
+
+I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one
+whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and
+energy, I quote:
+
+ "BREWER, P.O. BROWN CO., NEB.,
+
+ "December 23, '83.
+
+ "Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better
+ satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done
+ better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled)
+ per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger
+ vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40,
+ wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first
+ year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it
+ costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and
+ windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at
+ the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use,
+ a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the
+ chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight
+ feet.
+
+ "There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They
+ charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs,
+ sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two
+ and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make
+ the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own
+ hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam."
+
+ "The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in
+ the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September,
+ and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the
+ colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for
+ my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will."
+
+From another:
+
+ "We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have
+ some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are
+ going to have a reunion 16 February."
+
+ "BREWER, Jan., 8.
+
+ "You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been
+ getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th
+ December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since
+ Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken
+ around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of
+ years to have schools and plenty of neighbors."
+
+Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no
+sickness reported from climating.
+
+I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is
+a good country for the few of us that came."
+
+I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the
+little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that
+have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the
+horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have
+been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and
+lodging a greater number in jail.
+
+It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to
+rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace
+and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all
+things good!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri
+Valley.--A visit to Ft. Niobrara.
+
+
+I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. &
+P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from
+Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about.
+Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr.
+Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by
+sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the
+Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not
+give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of
+the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that
+neighborhood making it their head-quarters.
+
+I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for
+ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday
+evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me
+for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we
+availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by
+daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who
+busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck
+and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain
+with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and
+that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no
+nothing but prairie.
+
+There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be
+going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we
+all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent
+braces himself against the stove, and I--well I just shake and laugh.
+It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the
+agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face
+and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that
+his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last
+Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara
+and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't
+know when to be thankful, do they?
+
+Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and
+not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that
+of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is
+prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems
+quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade
+again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her
+head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't
+shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the
+country.
+
+Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer.
+
+The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills
+or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine,
+where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them
+of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to
+meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a
+walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees
+that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen
+from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made
+haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it
+was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see
+more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular
+passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening
+was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested
+upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the
+company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home
+where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I
+am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has
+repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say:
+
+"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody."
+
+The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll"
+folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is
+silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful
+hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from
+home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think.
+
+To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to
+Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and
+the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my
+coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the
+depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately.
+
+But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and
+protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I
+trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said:
+
+"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has
+always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know
+He will not forsake me now."
+
+Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence,
+says:
+
+"Well, I believe I will go, after all."
+
+"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the
+depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just
+rising.
+
+The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until
+our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and
+spend Sunday at Long Pine.
+
+I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat,
+fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman
+back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman
+across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old
+mother!
+
+"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there--well, I scarcely know what that
+is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair
+of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But
+while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a
+great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved,
+it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you
+see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of
+gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat
+in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our
+background.
+
+Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes
+up, and the fatherly old gent rouses.
+
+"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he
+asked.
+
+"I am a member of the colony," I replied.
+
+"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they
+getting along?"
+
+I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as
+lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial introductions.
+But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves us with a
+pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be J. Wesley
+Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at Valentine, but
+says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, and tells
+stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The thoughtful man is
+Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, who will spend
+his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, and this is his
+first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister that has been bold
+enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; "Is the colony
+supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our mission talks of
+sending one to them if they would wish it."
+
+"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching,
+as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination
+is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no
+church and no school house nearer than three miles."
+
+"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the
+people together."
+
+I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and
+their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to
+Valentine, and remarked:
+
+"I gathered some very interesting history from----"
+
+"Well if you believe all old ---- tells you, you may just believe
+everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured
+a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and
+listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter
+recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random,
+not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in
+testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about
+their ears."
+
+"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to
+Valentine," I asked.
+
+"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort
+sake, "no danger of you getting shot, _unless_ by _mere accident_. They
+are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never known to insult a
+lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when they are on a
+spree, they are as _wild_ as _wild_ can be;" with an ominous shake of
+his head.
+
+"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?"
+
+"Can't say, indeed; _hope not_."
+
+"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he
+could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his
+hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and
+baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one
+lodged that came through the house.
+
+After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car
+to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement
+than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the
+most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card
+with:
+
+"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the
+Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your
+courage."
+
+I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake _Tribune_,
+Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked:
+
+"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be
+able to do them as much good as others of more experience could."
+
+I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would
+be among them. Mrs. P. whispered:
+
+"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?"
+
+"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing
+us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after
+sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn
+much of Valentine, I know all I care to now."
+
+The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy--I
+could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he
+wore--changed the subject with:
+
+"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no
+alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this
+railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many
+a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a
+good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these
+sand hills then as there is now."
+
+Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked:
+
+"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through
+all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look
+old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks
+all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home."
+
+Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression;
+and I have been judging you so harshly.
+
+"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to
+thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a
+good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is
+there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the
+old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in
+heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an
+evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and
+protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far
+beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers
+a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while
+remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in
+fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless
+auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in
+prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and
+goodness, I go and feel I am not _alone_. Had it not been for my
+faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey;
+but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your
+stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look
+down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest
+to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would
+write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had
+written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of
+Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr.
+Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So
+gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not
+care to sleep, for--
+
+ Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet,
+ To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep.
+
+Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the
+Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company.
+
+It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were
+so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills
+glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of
+silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me
+from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating
+along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as
+though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was
+eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to
+waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and
+put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a
+greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but
+more interesting from its plainer view.
+
+It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country
+as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door
+of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level
+grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and
+sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely
+anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries,
+white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath
+the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly
+bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when
+"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to
+"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went
+to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50
+cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the
+depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four
+passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered
+about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from
+it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the
+bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon
+door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs.
+P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself
+close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a
+protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at
+first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a
+resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all
+quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder.
+Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and
+soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I
+would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down
+stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the
+fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man,
+with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to
+him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and
+some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed
+with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of
+revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine
+looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than
+of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an
+improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy
+in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long
+at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a
+better life.
+
+Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened
+expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home.
+
+One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his
+head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face
+I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general
+favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going
+away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know
+how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number.
+I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone,
+excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to
+read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your
+sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so
+often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a
+wild misspent life.
+
+As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not
+think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store
+and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot.
+Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear
+banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but
+was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to
+walk about and see the town.
+
+The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what
+looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray
+rocks and pine trees.
+
+It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost
+perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or
+Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the
+Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that
+it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained
+of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of
+it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the
+Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited
+sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about
+100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is
+broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their
+steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing
+in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small
+amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile
+wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a
+time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which
+are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an
+interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a
+pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which
+they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags
+are lost to view in their own wanderings."
+
+Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was
+but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the
+town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from
+Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand
+banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy
+homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and
+two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the
+Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and
+number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land
+office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land
+of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about
+twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is
+not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very
+long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known.
+
+About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and
+returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left
+there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade
+Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest
+wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant,
+which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in.
+
+From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be
+but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that
+direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he
+would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better
+view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and
+then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte
+that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around
+it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed,
+and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over
+Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even
+extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any
+information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that
+afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians.
+
+The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that
+was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see
+a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"--a block house with
+loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort
+Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses,
+most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square.
+The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large,
+handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings,
+chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc.
+Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and
+reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the
+officers and privates.
+
+The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under
+restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is
+punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods,
+a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the
+buildings are the stables--one for the gray and another for the sorrel
+horses--about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules.
+
+The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small
+trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly
+termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the
+driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that
+it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to
+duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at
+a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are
+boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for
+driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received
+fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their
+wives there--and but few are allowed that privilege--do so with the
+understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for
+the soldiers in return for their own keeping.
+
+After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the
+chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were
+kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon
+called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D.
+entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never
+was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time
+in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of
+interest about me, and my time so limited.
+
+Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly
+consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I
+quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the
+bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out
+of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes.
+
+Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we
+were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs
+that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand
+and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the
+cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched
+the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys
+in one company, and sorrels in another.
+
+There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a
+post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of
+the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could
+not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of
+soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000
+Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so
+disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be
+retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole
+keeper and support--"Uncle Sam."
+
+We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest
+praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad,
+as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my
+own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he
+spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of
+brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn,
+known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a
+brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good
+soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent
+death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man
+and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is
+interesting, I will briefly repeat it:
+
+Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for
+believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and
+rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became
+known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long
+after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort,
+and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took
+with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they
+had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock
+fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot
+by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to
+let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the
+confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians,
+who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies
+under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They
+followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under
+arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not
+allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life--a poor
+return for such a one as he had taken.
+
+He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this
+the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker
+of his life.
+
+When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail
+was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians
+were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let
+Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when
+Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the
+agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted
+Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the
+wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely
+followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave
+himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but
+has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort
+Pierre.
+
+The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant.
+
+While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to
+return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3
+o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he
+immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a
+half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And
+bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our
+way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange
+beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short,
+yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train
+left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough
+looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established
+by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train.
+The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of
+ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on
+us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we
+wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine.
+So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a
+gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a
+couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the
+train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a
+greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked:
+
+"Do mules ever run off?"
+
+"Sometimes they do."
+
+"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?"
+
+"No, I guess not."
+
+And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long
+lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train
+on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government
+mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not
+add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the
+very worst of mules.
+
+Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off,
+and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and
+then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half
+miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he
+helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train.
+
+Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood--chips
+from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of
+our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet
+as in the morning.
+
+I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr.
+T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs,
+which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large
+cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground.
+They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the
+settling up of the country.
+
+Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th
+meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river.
+
+When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the
+man whom I thought must be a pony boy.
+
+"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to
+travel in only a baggage car!"
+
+"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back,
+and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go."
+
+Mr. T. remarked:
+
+"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own
+company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the
+train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I
+will speak to the conductor in your behalf.
+
+The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor
+and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that
+I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least
+discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt
+very much alone.
+
+"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I
+sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I
+sang--just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and
+songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man
+think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then
+to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way,
+and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was
+always answered in the most respectful manner.
+
+I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a
+sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any
+one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and
+whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely."
+
+Well, all I got written was:
+
+Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy
+roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high;
+river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through
+a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom.
+Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the
+cuts.
+
+THATCHER, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the train from
+their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8×10 deserted store-house
+almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, Vegetables, and Eggs,"
+out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' worth have been sold.
+Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin fruit cans are strewn
+all around.
+
+To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level
+grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told,
+are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now.
+
+ARABIA, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look.
+
+WOOD LAKE, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some one
+has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is
+scarcely a house to be seen.
+
+JOHNSTOWN, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking on a
+better appearance--farm houses dotting the country in every direction.
+Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty little town,
+a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place again.
+
+Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach
+Long Pine about six o'clock.
+
+Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I
+have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises
+and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence.
+Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use
+of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the
+stranger for thinking so wrongly of him.
+
+Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth:
+
+Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J.
+Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie,
+fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south,
+and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has
+one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber
+yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one
+restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all
+to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a
+membership of thirteen.
+
+I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of
+seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its
+growth since then.
+
+Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been
+decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated
+portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the
+people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question.
+Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight
+Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all
+foreigners that go west.
+
+"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number
+of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the
+result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation
+months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house.
+
+"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A
+bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth.
+There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river,
+yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand
+acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a
+continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken.
+The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and
+the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance.
+Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre.
+
+"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are
+still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this
+place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter
+for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough
+for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass.
+
+"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts.
+The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will
+give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its
+merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per
+acre; potatoes, weighing 3-1/2 pounds, and 400 bushels per acre;
+cabbage, 22 pounds----"
+
+This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so
+favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort
+Niobrara, that he disposed of his _Tribune_ office, and returned,
+and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken,
+and located at Ainsworth.
+
+I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of
+later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's
+stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking.
+
+You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in
+preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services
+in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One
+saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the
+saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but
+did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the
+stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet
+with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who
+join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt
+there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry
+(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many
+of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are
+runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting
+stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and
+the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who
+remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer
+in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are
+spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for
+a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in
+looking."
+
+
+LONG PINE.
+
+After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek
+of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery
+and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there
+could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of
+nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired
+early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this
+hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests
+the better for its absence.
+
+The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long
+Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself
+started early for the bridge.
+
+It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it
+is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view
+by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine
+trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the
+table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among
+the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct
+springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream
+below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep
+pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away,
+and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs,
+and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara.
+We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can
+south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the
+trees loftier.
+
+It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to
+grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge
+and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross
+the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and
+branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the
+springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on
+a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water,
+and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view
+the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so
+romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's
+winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up
+by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on
+until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold
+wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering
+Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow
+pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge
+and beyond we went, following down the stream.
+
+Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so
+grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania
+hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from
+twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand
+and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials,
+and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs.
+
+Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the
+pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back
+from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear
+conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no
+less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too,
+preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever
+since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post
+until the end.
+
+But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where
+a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H.
+stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon
+a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of
+the distance that lay between me and home came before me.
+
+"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought,
+but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that
+is all powerful in every hour and need.
+
+Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come
+from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native
+state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large
+double log house on the banks of the Pine--a very pretty spot they
+claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and
+said:
+
+"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go
+to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see
+some one from home, it would almost cure me!"
+
+It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh,
+Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us
+of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black
+Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the
+few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath
+School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a
+neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had
+been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering.
+And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call.
+
+We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their
+home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not
+allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and
+promised to spend Monday with them.
+
+We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E.
+services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas.
+
+_Monday_--Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the
+Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of
+all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are
+leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek,
+"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs
+are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these
+cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size.
+
+Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and
+"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a
+wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was
+explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in
+the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her
+trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word,
+"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only
+did our duty."
+
+We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was
+so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can
+and will care for his children when they call upon him.
+
+
+MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY.
+
+"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the
+spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health,
+but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the
+Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched
+our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where
+Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days,
+when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the
+other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves
+that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after
+asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little
+house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and
+perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the
+river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards.
+
+The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the
+Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the
+ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the
+men, left as soon as his duty was performed.
+
+About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of
+Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to
+Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented
+that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of
+which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife
+strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself--and at that time
+sick--signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to
+sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them.
+
+He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far
+until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding
+him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead.
+
+This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the
+shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our
+tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison
+house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by
+a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with
+crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their
+leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other,
+with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render
+him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a
+worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and
+would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our
+tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put
+his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the
+hill and entreated those who came to turn back.
+
+When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon
+came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we
+were not again disturbed.
+
+Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha
+for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest
+but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the
+tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the
+long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant
+action.
+
+Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for
+fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply
+of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the
+man, and morning came and found him still living.
+
+Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that
+our children were safe.
+
+Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he
+very badly needed.
+
+After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men,
+friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of
+Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were
+his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with
+their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as
+guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver.
+
+Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him
+to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when
+they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to
+land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I
+was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on
+to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we
+had pursued.
+
+The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles
+away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to
+depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated
+through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if
+Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and
+warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save
+ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take
+whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that
+our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we
+had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with
+us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come
+again, and urged me to go with her to her home.
+
+"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you _must not_ leave me!" and then the
+thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her own life
+for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone.
+
+When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could
+not refrain from singing,
+
+ "Through this changing world below,
+ Lead me gently, gently, as I go;
+ Trusting Thee, I cannot stray,
+ I can never, never lose my way."
+
+And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over
+the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came
+upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst
+you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper,
+"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against
+thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but
+greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though
+surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R.
+came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home
+she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own
+safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all
+dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain.
+
+Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the
+appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting
+and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday.
+
+On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a
+prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do
+hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for
+he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old.
+
+(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of
+his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all
+his bad deeds behind.)
+
+Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death
+blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we
+did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton.
+
+We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles
+further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five
+hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only
+remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we
+could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the
+frontier again.
+
+In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never
+experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for
+a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they
+would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their
+revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was
+done to assure me that I was safe at their hands.
+
+
+I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I
+repeat only truth.
+
+And now to her collection of curiosities--but can only mention a few:
+One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two
+feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed
+the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they
+left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had
+been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of
+which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in
+circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the
+point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white,
+and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered
+from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors.
+As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to
+a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did
+not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking.
+
+It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But
+what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our
+guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me
+with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities.
+
+There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be
+persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet
+had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the
+beaver with only their four front teeth.
+
+The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine,
+cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of
+a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal
+of lumber.
+
+Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he
+was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in
+April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular
+services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown,
+Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all.
+
+Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing
+between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the
+spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora
+Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak
+and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr.
+S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state,
+and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my
+newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but,
+best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat."
+
+But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the
+beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in
+June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H.
+Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and
+pitched a boarding tent, 14×16, from which they fed the workmen on the
+railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was
+followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now
+there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one
+drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant.
+Population 175.
+
+From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean
+the following:
+
+"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you
+visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put
+up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22×86, ten
+two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of
+both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved
+into their 20×40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second
+story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's
+hardware, where also religious services are regularly held.
+Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree.
+The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is
+proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting
+in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a
+saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine,
+three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing
+pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty
+bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato
+raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured
+twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half
+short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of
+north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast
+disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of
+what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back
+from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles.
+
+"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for
+nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber
+culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded
+lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been
+taken up during the past year.
+
+"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our
+county, and find as follows:
+
+"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters
+to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters.
+Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it
+will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead,
+pre-emption, and timber culture laws.
+
+"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen
+miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across
+the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter."
+
+From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country
+well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county
+is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average
+favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further
+developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be
+a good producing soil."
+
+Water is good and easily obtained.
+
+The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the
+creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around
+on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a
+distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long
+Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery.
+
+The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are
+of a clear, white sand.
+
+But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has
+been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be
+eastward bound.
+
+Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back
+from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on
+the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new
+merchant just opening a store near the colony.
+
+Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so
+pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the
+cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were
+drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he
+and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very
+unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a
+ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better
+life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole
+use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to
+lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift
+given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone
+would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat;
+so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep.
+
+How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs.
+Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back."
+
+Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219
+miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry
+brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to
+themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of
+the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two
+occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first
+train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter
+Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on
+the south.
+
+Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up
+of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new,
+rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first,
+until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere.
+
+But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of
+Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is
+permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then
+the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty.
+
+So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.),
+which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general
+stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm
+implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and
+blacksmith shop, and a bank.
+
+Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was
+visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on
+the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has
+here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of
+April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out
+from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and
+shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the
+story of the first chapter.
+
+Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I
+have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that
+the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very
+appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C."
+
+From The Stuart _Ledger_ we quote: The Methodists have organized
+with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the
+building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev.
+Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson
+is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of
+Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24×42, where over
+60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss
+Mamie Woods. An opera house 22×60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's
+building, 18×24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist,
+and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will
+close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received
+from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24:
+"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two
+months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come
+in their 'schooners.'
+
+"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three
+feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly
+enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December."
+
+But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion";
+of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as
+satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe
+its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape,
+and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets,
+closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth,
+and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your
+satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full
+length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want
+to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and
+was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can
+be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel;
+and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all
+I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists,
+and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing
+"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart.
+
+The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr.
+Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family.
+Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard.
+
+Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the
+following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place:
+"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two
+hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a
+population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine
+month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about
+$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson _Graphic_,
+several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention.
+Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about
+500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county
+during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa,
+though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles
+east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last
+March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday
+school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can
+be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by
+next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily
+obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton."
+
+I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded
+coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114
+miles, to attend Robinson's circus--but shows are a rarity here. The
+light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding
+country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling
+prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there
+settlers' homes with their culture of timber.
+
+O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians,
+and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt
+county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches,
+Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It has
+three papers, The _Frontier_, Holt County _Banner_, both republican,
+and O'Neill _Tribune_, Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a
+mile from the river. Gen. O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha.
+
+Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the
+Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this
+point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was
+completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college
+located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81.
+U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83.
+County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a
+private enterprise by the citizens.
+
+I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also
+given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless
+to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well
+represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will
+bring into a western town.
+
+To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much
+that has already been said of others, and the story of their added
+years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of
+to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further?
+
+The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright,
+new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost
+weaving high.
+
+It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as
+we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties.
+
+That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road
+to Missouri Valley--its starting point--and for this we have Mr. J. R.
+Buchanan for authority.
+
+There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of
+the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in
+1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New
+Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road.
+Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was
+worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population;
+is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the
+vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no
+superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of
+wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn.
+Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre,
+now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00.
+
+The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached
+Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about
+100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad
+was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the
+direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black
+Hills.
+
+As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it
+will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri
+river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the
+channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until
+the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000
+feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments
+built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the
+river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over
+$1,000,000.
+
+But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must
+leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.--A
+description of the great Platte Valley.
+
+
+I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a
+depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to
+putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master
+until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge
+storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to
+remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act
+of kindness shown me already.
+
+At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket
+agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road,
+which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am
+glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed
+at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer.
+Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot."
+
+"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the
+telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could
+not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of
+colonizing on the frontier."
+
+"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have
+been inquiring for you--but you must stop on your return and see the
+beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you."
+
+Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was
+not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were
+thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to
+see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was
+almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden.
+I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded
+westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn.
+
+The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren
+of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is
+lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied
+and much under cultivation.
+
+I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the
+railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its
+amber light, making it a beautiful sight.
+
+Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from
+an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles
+wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and
+hindered all further sight-seeing.
+
+The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out
+of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares,
+"It is just good for him--no business to let the man get his hand on
+his money!"
+
+"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the
+conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat,
+assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the
+old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to
+protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the
+conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss."
+
+I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour
+would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot,
+but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me
+with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!"
+
+We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our
+letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity
+and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found
+Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me.
+
+To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo
+Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and
+trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning
+much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we
+found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a
+long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from
+the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters:
+Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black
+hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color
+and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet
+teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is
+taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but
+delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features
+and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet
+of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young.
+
+It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate
+as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and
+the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void
+the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed
+enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with
+his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has
+always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him.
+
+To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the
+"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the
+following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill."
+
+His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport,
+Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport.
+Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature
+from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at
+Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was
+occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on
+reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to
+California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers
+and Mormons.
+
+Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their
+language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance
+and shoot with bow and arrow.
+
+In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that
+had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery
+man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a
+burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he
+died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for
+burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of
+armed men came to take the life that had just gone out.
+
+Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing
+service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first
+blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl
+sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and
+thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and
+took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him
+from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely
+forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the
+employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty
+being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City
+to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the
+Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of
+the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great
+freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity
+of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train
+consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a
+railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of
+transportation beyond the states.
+
+It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his
+first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a
+party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the
+cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing
+several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from
+the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the
+creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first
+shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young
+as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has
+since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage
+driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government,
+which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very
+best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa
+Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature
+in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his
+exhibitions on the stage.
+
+When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of,
+they just call it buffalo ---- and as a consequence, there are buffalo
+gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss,
+grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when
+he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the
+Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day.
+
+I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the
+country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn
+of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost
+every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta
+and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln
+county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the
+sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte
+rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December,
+1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the
+town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had
+to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars.
+
+North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business
+houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land
+office of the western district embraces the government land of
+Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and
+Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the
+surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as
+stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is
+quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are
+fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but
+those which have been cultivated.
+
+Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of
+the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and
+painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited
+to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door
+six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without
+ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens
+and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were
+discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room,
+thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how
+they would enjoy it.
+
+"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests,
+but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed
+the joke."
+
+Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was
+abandoned four years ago.
+
+Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to
+be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot,
+I left Monday evening for Plum Creek.
+
+How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and
+whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of
+adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about
+their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the
+lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away.
+
+I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the
+east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do
+better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken
+mother.
+
+"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us
+on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester,
+N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave
+lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last
+summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I
+die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for
+the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more
+than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely
+child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'"
+
+Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been
+interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady
+from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how
+they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not
+be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never
+been without a snow-cap since she first saw them.
+
+Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to
+meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we
+preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the
+gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston
+House.
+
+I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania
+about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum
+creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the
+little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming
+Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum
+Creek.
+
+Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to
+Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April,
+1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still
+holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station
+house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he
+built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present
+town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one
+mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile
+further west.
+
+Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County _Pioneer_,
+of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history:
+
+"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the
+organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71,
+at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the
+entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told.
+But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous
+people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated
+March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the
+Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point.
+
+"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs
+affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians.
+
+"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte
+river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was
+celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of
+Columbus.
+
+"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the
+churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their
+religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the
+Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of
+'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the
+county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev.
+Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in
+'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the
+Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian
+congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary.
+
+"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and
+far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska
+colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under
+charge of F. J. Pearson.
+
+"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their
+first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the
+U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses."
+
+I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor _Pioneer_, whom I
+questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained have
+done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther west,
+until there is not many of us left; only about eight families that are
+now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by the
+grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was very
+discouraging."
+
+I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove
+their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be
+driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe.
+
+"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the
+treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of
+light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after
+they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose
+mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal,
+seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west
+of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which
+two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still
+living."
+
+Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel
+in a 16×20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men,
+who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they
+could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is
+now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek.
+
+While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact
+some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked--
+
+"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him
+how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I
+can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?'
+No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married.
+He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take
+you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John
+Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a
+family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania.
+
+The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even
+this opportunity to get to my friends.
+
+Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white
+with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of
+it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the
+bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph
+Butterbaugh--our old neighbor--coming to town, and who was greatly
+surprised, as they had not received my letter.
+
+We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and
+sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces,
+just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along
+the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to
+our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely
+improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others
+where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod
+houses).
+
+Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one
+herd, making it dangerous for travelers.
+
+Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house
+built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any
+lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are
+built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building
+of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then
+built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the
+summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a
+good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for
+sheep.
+
+Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box
+nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and
+receives the mail.
+
+Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad
+land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for
+pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod.
+
+Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8×10 frame, where
+the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for
+holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in.
+
+It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the
+stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon
+us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in
+my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I
+know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily
+sang:
+
+ "I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild,
+ And feel that my mother now thinks of her child,
+ As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door,
+ Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more."
+
+I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined
+by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and
+together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I
+sing with more emphasis than--
+
+ "Oh give me back my native hills,
+ Rough, rugged though they be,
+ No other land, no other clime
+ Is half so dear to me."
+
+But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in
+the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying:
+
+"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and
+sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I
+don't think I have tried to sing it since."
+
+All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I
+thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes
+down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until
+it echoed from bluff to bluff.
+
+But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr.
+A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the
+morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr.
+A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her.
+
+Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with
+me on that morning ride.
+
+Rough?
+
+There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some
+things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt,
+as that horse _tried_ to trot--perhaps it was my poke hat that was
+coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted
+Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot.
+
+When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go
+three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast.
+
+"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow:
+mind, we don't want to be going round many corners."
+
+"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you;
+can you stand another trot?"
+
+And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and
+laugh at my attempt at riding.
+
+It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's
+sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered--"Breakfast
+for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill
+into a "grand gallop."
+
+Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my
+laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the
+door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the
+laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after
+all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one.
+Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the
+river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded
+away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie,
+bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old
+friends.
+
+We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs
+and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the _swing_ very
+much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a
+half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to
+come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To
+peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight
+to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of
+one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the
+Platte river three miles away--the river a mile in width, and the wide
+valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The
+U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the
+trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the
+east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes
+Cozad, Willow Island--almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first
+house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add
+the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83:
+
+Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five
+families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to
+be more than doubled by spring.
+
+But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after
+wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight
+until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills
+and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or
+pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a
+river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and
+are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call
+calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They
+seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed
+with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how æsthetic we have
+grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect--would much
+rather look at the deer tracks.
+
+The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and
+cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all
+taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain
+cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun
+with grape-vines.
+
+Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring
+it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor
+fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower?
+But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown
+doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt
+bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I
+returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very
+deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not
+touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so
+lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it--well, he didn't catch the
+rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun.
+
+_Sunday._ We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and
+Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with
+Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner
+time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen--only a few
+willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected
+from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a
+garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest
+flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms
+same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is
+not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk?
+
+The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the
+widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the
+north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of
+the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water
+is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the
+table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we
+heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?"
+I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a
+boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing
+if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that
+pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves
+of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width,
+and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of
+everything but grass.
+
+The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting
+of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that
+rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the
+North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the
+north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It
+has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and
+rapid--running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and
+changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its
+brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under
+ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican
+river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than
+the Platte.
+
+We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of
+our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound
+train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have
+described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our
+colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought
+large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the
+Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give
+depth of soil and its production, but will add the following:
+
+Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels
+wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30;
+and barley about 40 bushels per acre.
+
+First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of
+December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was
+108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below,
+which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as
+high as 36 above since.
+
+The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. &
+M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R.
+
+In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the
+same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county.
+First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in
+'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list
+shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north
+side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160
+miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in
+'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that
+time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and
+bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a
+canal to utilize the waters of the Platte.
+
+Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that
+hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar,
+maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont,
+named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842
+and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed
+but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and
+silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river
+and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his
+mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large
+and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated
+at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but
+now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches.
+It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must
+add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any
+sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for
+some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near
+the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are
+entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun.
+
+I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along
+the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance
+as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha
+about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had
+breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt
+Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R.
+land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well.
+
+Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha
+Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was
+made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been
+ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska
+shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the
+present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a
+homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was
+founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied
+across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge
+completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the
+first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten
+dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha,
+and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill.
+
+The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected
+for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton,
+Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa
+shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the
+Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to
+make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren
+plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet
+above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water
+tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis.
+It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha
+now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's
+principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient.
+
+I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and
+as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln,
+about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master,
+and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed
+to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington
+House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my
+friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman
+to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and
+that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homoeopathic
+physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners
+live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania.
+But a better thought came--that of the Baptist minister, as they
+attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and
+through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a
+long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your
+friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us
+to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his
+kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin
+Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather
+long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met.
+"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if
+you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile
+walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City
+Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I
+have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find
+the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood
+waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln
+in my walking up and down--at least all I cared to. But the welcome
+"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the
+kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its
+unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I
+was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own
+garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling
+stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing
+but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia
+Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of
+finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie,
+you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in
+Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor."
+
+And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing
+this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska.
+Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty
+miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction,
+in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which
+connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was
+the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is
+4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J.
+W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company
+yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where
+some government land is yet to be had.
+
+A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln,
+Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April
+24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have
+gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in
+unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty
+acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan,
+in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying
+their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land
+within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all
+government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest
+fit only for grazing.
+
+This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on
+Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with
+much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return via
+Hastings.--A description of the Republican and Blue Valleys.--The
+Saratoga of Nebraska.
+
+
+We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making
+point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for
+"Danger"--danger of it biting me or getting away--my prairie dog, which
+had found a home in a barrel.
+
+One evening Cousin Andy said:
+
+"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?"
+
+"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they
+make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that
+reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering
+the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in
+the side told the story.
+
+I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price
+for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a
+Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him.
+
+The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor
+table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found
+him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know
+just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with
+heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but
+by morning the ground would be in good working order.
+
+Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for
+several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county
+field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving
+their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now
+earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation.
+
+When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was
+entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so
+completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob
+Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built
+railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the
+way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in
+the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres,
+and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers
+until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads,
+settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has
+an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon.
+
+I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent
+of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and
+while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the
+third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central
+Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska.
+
+After a few moments conversation, he asked:
+
+"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?"
+
+"Indiana county."
+
+"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is
+dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me
+all kindness and interest.
+
+At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of
+his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same
+kindness and attention that every one does at his hands.
+
+"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern
+Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that
+truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then
+seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends
+and more of the state.
+
+A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face
+was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me
+she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not
+expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last.
+
+Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience:
+I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three
+months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word
+of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my
+young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously
+ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her
+off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that
+she might find her brother better.
+
+The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my
+eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect
+snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression
+from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but
+that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention
+by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold
+and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little
+ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just
+as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look
+as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first
+foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a
+settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely
+together as possible.
+
+I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I
+had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked:
+
+"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?"
+
+"Yes, sir."
+
+"To Mr. Fulton's?"
+
+"Why, yes. You know my friends then?"
+
+"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew
+where you were going."
+
+No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but
+then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are
+different people.
+
+"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed
+at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was
+the one she had expected."
+
+"You know where they live then?"
+
+"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you
+to the house."
+
+With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to
+his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when
+I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous
+week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my
+Uncle's door.
+
+"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around
+me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often.
+
+"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to
+go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought
+you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us
+yesterday."
+
+"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the
+depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just
+when I am given up for good."
+
+Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his
+motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over,
+Aunt said:
+
+"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!"
+
+"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?"
+
+"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?"
+
+"No, not a word."
+
+"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about
+now."
+
+"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then
+I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps
+already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of
+what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God
+in His great loving kindness is sparing us!
+
+I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle
+John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same
+village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the
+year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the
+saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and
+baby Ruth, with malaria fever.
+
+To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs--a
+town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the
+banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great
+volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber--honey locust, elm,
+box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees
+and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches
+in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska,
+and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long.
+
+I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to
+us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just
+as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among
+the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers
+of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says:
+
+"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in
+this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J.
+H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first
+surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were
+Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek
+is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs.
+
+"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among
+us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had
+been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the
+first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the
+Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only
+three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers.
+Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of
+flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them
+quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a
+sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed
+to a post for everybody to use.
+
+"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two
+months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell
+everybody else to come. And come they did--walking, riding in ox
+wagons, and any way at all--until in all there was 150 of us. The
+ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress
+in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the
+dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn
+dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn.
+The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We
+sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers
+with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some
+war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight.
+Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind.
+So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all
+summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow
+bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and--well, that corn
+money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500
+bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as
+this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160
+acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for
+$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000.
+
+"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together
+in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us
+prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle
+to the Otoe Indians on the reservation.
+
+"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor
+pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the
+field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with
+their ponies.
+
+"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from
+Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week
+from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars
+a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody
+went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission
+Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday
+morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80.
+
+"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and
+surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life
+we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted
+me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't
+see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out
+to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how
+much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on
+the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody
+calls me 'Pap Tyler.'"
+
+I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the
+Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom
+of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were
+about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old
+ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not
+that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a
+country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the
+people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated
+man. I marked him--fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the
+state. The programme of the day was as follows:
+
+ SONG--_The Red, White, and Blue_.
+
+ DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE--Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of
+ twelve years.
+
+ SONG--_Night Before the Battle_.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Schools_. Responded to by J. C. Burch.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Railroads_. Rev. J. M. Pryse.
+
+ MUSIC--By the band.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Neighbors_. Rev. E. H. Burrington.
+
+Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and
+with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their
+dinners.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat
+my dinner under the flag with a stain--a rebel flag of eleven stars and
+three stripes--a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast.
+
+In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom
+tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the
+celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works.
+
+
+WYMORE
+
+Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost
+an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the
+spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the
+ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640
+acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here
+sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed.
+
+One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little
+shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built
+homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you
+what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat
+Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall,
+Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of
+their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising
+western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on
+Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The
+heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a
+feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool
+and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon
+almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush,
+or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day."
+
+It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will
+shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake.
+
+The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is
+a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but
+one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and
+south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two
+miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it
+with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary.
+
+Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue
+on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six
+miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another
+creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800,
+on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and
+west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the
+agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at
+the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied.
+
+A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency."
+It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the
+30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a
+"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I
+felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so
+desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting
+posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the
+head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and
+hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little
+ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy
+hunting-ground."
+
+This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other
+tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new
+home in the Indian Territory.
+
+The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in
+places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see
+Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun
+was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska
+breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until
+the stars were shining.
+
+For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw
+working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached
+to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and
+the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans;
+minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking
+these days when it says 100° in the shade, cool, and if you can't take
+them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not
+do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled
+over and broke the bulb.
+
+There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came
+in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a
+cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or
+two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and
+shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner
+of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie
+and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 P.M.
+train, July 5th.
+
+I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all
+crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such
+a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these
+dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as
+though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and
+friends.
+
+Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and
+nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and
+now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy
+meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of
+the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along:
+
+
+ODELL,
+
+A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet
+well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent
+the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the
+Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins
+hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's
+planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with
+bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark
+muddy water that covers the bottom.
+
+
+DILLER,
+
+A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing
+platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and
+grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is
+running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes.
+
+
+INDIAN CREEK.
+
+Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now
+just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill
+killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they
+were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for
+thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly
+defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his
+hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill
+from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer
+used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians,
+and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The
+stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place,
+and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at
+
+
+ENDICOTT,
+
+A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the
+centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing
+through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear
+door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all.
+
+
+REYNOLDS,
+
+A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good
+homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so
+good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the
+hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in
+bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is
+running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why
+Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the
+left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I
+do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence.
+Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor
+looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of
+cattle grazing.
+
+
+HUBBELL.
+
+Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power;
+only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall
+wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county,
+which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of
+Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have
+since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five,
+wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in
+this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in
+hand, and was referred to ---- ---- for information, who asked--
+
+"Are you writing for the _Inter Ocean_?"
+
+"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied.
+
+"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a
+lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their
+publication."
+
+I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work.
+
+We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls
+county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old
+schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking
+since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me
+to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard
+some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand,
+gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just
+beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that
+points its spire heavenward through his labors.
+
+The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all
+the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the
+friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three
+little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the
+beauties of the "Garden of the West."
+
+The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we
+cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling,
+and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land,
+with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The
+prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our
+portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower.
+While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a
+faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier.
+They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves
+sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing.
+
+Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to
+think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these
+great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a
+weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is
+almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make
+one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of
+black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with
+Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some
+years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk
+house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a
+wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs
+when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in
+any direction.
+
+I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky
+waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and
+go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay
+with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one
+who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have
+you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I
+was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I
+_must_ go, and sunset saw me off.
+
+All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge
+I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough--sandy bed and banks,
+trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there
+only in wet weather.
+
+I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles
+north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for
+several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean
+passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks
+of the Republican.
+
+So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will
+know what they are.
+
+
+SUPERIOR
+
+Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The
+Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not
+catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I
+thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not
+understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much
+emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on
+the beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains
+he has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I _just love_
+to go fossiling! Don't you _love_ to go fossiling, Miss?"
+
+"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know
+it is just too _lovely_ for _anything_."
+
+It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern
+people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not
+tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers,
+and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I
+went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next
+morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine
+and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on
+all of the three railroads.
+
+I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have
+always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive,
+and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his
+engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great
+throbbing heart of the Centennial--the Corliss engine, excited my
+admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the
+Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore
+with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and
+all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned
+to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at
+Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a
+ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long
+wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the
+fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the
+window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that
+amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a
+minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my
+impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was
+there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I
+appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola.
+
+"Fourteen miles," was the reply.
+
+Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the
+engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a
+bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and
+let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the
+wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place.
+When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they
+had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen
+minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as
+he did so, asked:
+
+"Well, did they go pretty fast?"
+
+"I don't know, did they?" I replied.
+
+I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at
+McCook.
+
+After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the
+seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the
+railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the
+little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a
+population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks
+of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of
+the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up
+with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place
+I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford,
+Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first
+house was built in June, '82.
+
+I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of
+the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is
+seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the
+appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame
+house, build one that will look well at a distance.
+
+Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried
+from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and
+located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at
+a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook
+_Tribune_, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then
+in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near
+which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed
+through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained
+from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as
+has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained,
+and brick is cheaper than in the east.
+
+From a copy of the Daily _Tribune_, I read a long list of business
+firms and professional cards, and finished with, "_no saloons_."
+
+The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics
+worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given
+the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called
+upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from
+home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the
+east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the
+east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook.
+I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the
+Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She
+told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the
+ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general.
+
+"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found
+in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few
+days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can
+and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an
+engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without
+seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this
+road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness
+that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to
+point out all that was of interest, along the way."
+
+The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops,
+with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken
+claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought
+80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the
+homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough
+to go into stock-raising.
+
+This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western
+part of Hitchcock county.
+
+Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight
+counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The
+40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the
+Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is
+easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well
+sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south.
+These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood,
+and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly
+populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone,
+the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty
+of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and
+will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go.
+
+A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado,
+are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand,
+and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side
+and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by
+the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was.
+
+The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond
+lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does
+not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars
+in all shapes and little islands of green--there it winds to the south
+and is lost to sight--herds of cattle--corn field--river again with
+willow fringed bank--cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand,
+or they would not be there long--river gone again--tall willow
+grove--wire fencing--creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width.
+Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles
+long, and cattle grazing in it--all fenced in until we reach
+
+
+INDIANOLA,
+
+one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was
+surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was
+slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400
+inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses'
+from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and
+school house--great herd of cattle--wilderness of sunflowers turning
+their bright faces to the sun--now nothing but grass--corral made of
+logs--corn and potatoes--out of the old sod into the nice new
+frame--river beautifully wooded--valley about four miles wide from
+bluff to bluff--dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at
+home--board fence.
+
+
+CAMBRIDGE.
+
+Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring
+mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose
+shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple
+shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers.
+
+Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo
+wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good.
+
+
+ARAPAHOE.
+
+Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and
+bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on
+their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern
+point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty
+miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that
+neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are
+two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was
+platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in
+sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them!
+didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in
+very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream
+no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its
+banks. River close; trees--there, it and the trees are both gone south.
+Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain.
+
+
+OXFORD.
+
+Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north;
+town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a
+Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for
+mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and
+cattle, cattle--What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out
+west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan
+county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small
+towns, but will not be so long.
+
+Here we are at
+
+
+ORLEANS.
+
+A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the
+north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before
+me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her
+company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream
+called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which
+the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the
+town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and
+for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their
+right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles
+east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400
+of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county
+seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its
+interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land.
+Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land;
+large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old
+sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt.
+
+
+ALMA.
+
+Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the
+table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the
+county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town.
+
+That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near
+Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the
+interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her
+fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only
+passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove
+the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other
+talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk.
+
+
+REPUBLICAN CITY.
+
+Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400.
+Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would
+be more plenty.
+
+
+NAPONEE.
+
+Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in
+sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery.
+
+BLOOMINGTON--the "Highland City"--the county seat of Franklin county,
+and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful valley,
+nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public buildings,
+and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian churches, a large
+Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, a large creamery,
+and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians are excellent
+judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch of country,
+although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The Pawnees were
+the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I do not wonder
+that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown into a grand
+possession for their white brothers.
+
+I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half
+and use a dash for the rest of the words cor--, pota--, bush--, tre--,
+riv--. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that
+wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a
+good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it
+came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre-- or bus--;
+well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive
+roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the
+river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have
+ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for
+awhile, and just then you haven't.
+
+But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at FRANKLIN, a real
+good solid town. First house built July, 1879. I never can guess how
+many people live in a town by looking at it from a car window. How do I
+know how many there are at work in the creamery, flouring mill, and
+woolen factory? And how many pupils are studying in the Franklin
+Academy, a fine two-story building erected by the Republican Valley
+Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? First term opened Dec.
+6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is $12,000, and they
+propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and seven students have
+been enrolled during the present term. And how many little boys and
+girls in the common school building? or how many are in their nicely
+painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and dug-outs in
+the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of the ground? It
+takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds of houses to
+make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, oats, millet,
+broom corn, and all _sich_--good all the way along this valley.
+
+
+RIVERTON.
+
+A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in
+ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M.
+Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to
+$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great
+fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now;
+there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of
+the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the
+Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it
+brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the
+bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes"
+and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One
+minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as
+though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a
+direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile.
+Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has
+stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed!
+Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles
+away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call
+
+
+RED CLOUD!
+
+Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud,
+I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams
+were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I
+stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad;
+first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that
+hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my
+foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new
+moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the
+Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking
+up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a
+rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last
+came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes
+into a silent prayer:
+
+"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!"
+
+I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage,
+enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me
+into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant
+lady, and soon I was listening to the following story:
+
+"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers,
+and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which
+much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other
+settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several
+settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently
+visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for
+taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people
+stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of
+logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first
+winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in
+the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this
+spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but
+was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on
+the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and
+as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also
+plenty of elk, antelope, and deer.
+
+"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in
+my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes
+polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the
+summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer
+county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72,
+and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe."
+
+The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told
+of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I
+could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he
+is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo
+meat hung to the ceiling, and added:
+
+"I spent many a happy day there."
+
+Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving
+well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a
+dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden
+even by the most humble abode.
+
+The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same
+as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and
+have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's
+children.
+
+When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said:
+
+"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as
+Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness,
+for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in
+the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days
+and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery--her native
+state.
+
+The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing
+the surrounding beauties of their home.
+
+"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years
+ago--fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some
+think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while
+Mrs. G. says:
+
+"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if
+I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in
+the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and
+phaeton to take me to the depot.
+
+Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming
+and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large
+photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more
+of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14×16
+hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out:
+
+"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good
+home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud,
+which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for
+their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over
+sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100
+miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their
+groceries.
+
+As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from
+centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which
+Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had
+made that he paid for in years of service to his country.
+
+When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450
+inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the
+B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster
+county, and surrounded by a rich country--need I add more?
+
+
+AMBOY.
+
+A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with
+bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short.
+
+
+COWLES.
+
+Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to
+be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I
+feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling
+to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another
+how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic
+thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will
+cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he
+wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more
+than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes
+and groves of trees.
+
+
+BLUE HILL.
+
+A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that
+blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy
+life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers
+with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by
+only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and
+smiles upon me even here.
+
+ Bloom, little flower, all the way along,
+ Sing to us travelers your own quiet song,
+ Speak to us softly, gently, and low,
+ Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know?
+
+Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick.
+
+This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it
+so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of
+trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of
+the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist.
+
+
+AYR
+
+Was but a small town, so we go on to HASTINGS, a town of over 5,000
+inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six miles
+west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The B. &
+M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it was not
+a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. Joe &
+Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point in the
+following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W.
+Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors
+of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same year,
+the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, the
+salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the state
+for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is nicely
+built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from fires. I
+notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep here. The
+surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking good.
+
+Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are
+all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all.
+I notice the churches are well attended.
+
+A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and,
+as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better
+my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken
+stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that
+condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I
+cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good
+young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was
+intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any
+one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such
+a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as
+this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he
+passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all
+for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most
+insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is
+Sunday.
+
+
+CRETE.
+
+Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue
+river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant,
+shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy
+retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre
+of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds
+of the N.S.S.A.A.
+
+
+LINCOLN.
+
+Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to
+watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when
+I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking
+through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind
+upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I
+didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he
+had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am
+only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him
+I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for
+me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my
+friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I
+thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had
+a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on.
+After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one
+of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them
+another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as
+they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday.
+
+_Monday._ Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without
+it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your
+baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about
+it."
+
+"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for
+this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had."
+"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would
+replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and
+button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will
+never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never
+replace. No, I _must_ not lose it!" And then I stole away and went
+to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that
+help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and
+as I prayed this lesson came to me--How alarmed I am over the loss of a
+little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when
+so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and
+each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read
+and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things.
+And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten.
+
+I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good,
+nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would
+just take a good cry over it, and--but won't I hug my dusty satchels if
+I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I
+supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for
+me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own.
+
+So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie
+took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the
+nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so
+slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But
+I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a
+minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the
+depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble,
+but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the
+faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I
+turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage,
+little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my
+fan. "Oh dear, I am _so_ glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my
+satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to
+give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting
+attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch
+my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to
+do better.--I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a
+thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the
+Republican valley, and then about my baggage.
+
+"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?"
+
+"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old
+lady, and must go and see to it."
+
+When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both
+gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked:
+
+"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?"
+
+"Nothing; I did not know you had found it."
+
+Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said:
+
+"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to."
+
+"The conductor carried it away."
+
+"Where did he go to?"
+
+"I don't know, Miss."
+
+Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought.
+
+"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had
+followed me. "What's gone?"
+
+"Why, my baggage; it's gone again."
+
+"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in
+here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov.
+Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all
+carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad,
+and a good lesson learned.
+
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at
+Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July
+20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this
+table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under
+the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are
+as follows:
+
+ Pacific Junction to Kearney 196
+
+ Omaha line 17
+
+ Nebraska City to Central City 150
+
+ Nebraska City to Beatrice 92
+
+ Atchison to Columbus 221
+
+ Crete to Red Cloud 150
+
+ Table Rock to Wymore 38
+
+ Hastings to Culbertson 171
+
+ Denver Extension 244
+
+ Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford 77
+
+ Chester to Hebron 12
+
+ DeWitt to West Line 25
+
+ Odell to Washington, Kan. 26
+
+ Nemaha to Salem 18
+
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the
+C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous
+"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between
+Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management,
+tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are
+entirely avoided.
+
+P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at
+the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent,
+while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R.
+Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct
+all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His
+thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having
+spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for
+this office.
+
+
+MILFORD.
+
+"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue"
+river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of
+thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and
+sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr.
+Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I
+was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs.
+Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who
+located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in
+'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by
+the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town
+that afterward grew up about him.
+
+Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made
+very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land
+of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through
+the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers
+and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the
+common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due
+west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr.
+Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is
+now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies.
+Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes
+and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a
+log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A
+saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at
+hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his
+flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none
+other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of
+the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs.
+Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from
+her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were
+competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and
+I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest."
+
+Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a
+broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away
+captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was
+very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it.
+
+In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies
+high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then
+winding down canyon Seata, _little_ canyon, we crossed the River to the
+Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, hickory,
+and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines--one we
+measured being sixteen inches in circumference--while a cottonwood
+measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor
+where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the
+Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its
+shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But
+pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling
+Springs."
+
+Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring
+flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay
+into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes,
+but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened
+rock.
+
+The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine
+for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the
+running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house
+in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in
+'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and
+gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley _Record_."
+Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the "_Congregational News_"
+in '78.
+
+The "Milford _Ozone_" is the leading organ of the day, so named for the
+health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy.
+
+A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as
+postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via
+Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J.
+H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was
+established.
+
+The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a
+large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of
+300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross
+the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a
+view of the new town of EAST MILFORD laid out on an eighty acre plot
+that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It is a
+private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly
+favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of
+the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside
+home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot
+and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet
+found in Nebraska.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL.
+
+
+Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived
+from the Indian _ne_ (water) and _bras_ (shallow), and means shallow
+water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to 208 from
+north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that lie between
+parallels 40° and 43° north latitude, and 18° and 27° west longitude.
+
+The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the
+original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only
+herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854,
+"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made
+it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for
+its motto "_Equality before the Law_."
+
+The governors of Nebraska territory were:
+
+ Francis Burt, 1854.
+ T. B. Cuming, 1854-5.
+ Mark W. Izard, 1855-8.
+ W. A. Richardson, 1858.
+ J. S. Morton, 1858-9.
+ Samuel W. Black, 1859-61.
+ Alvin Saunders, 1861-6.
+ David Butler, 1866-7.
+
+Of the state--
+
+ David Butler, 1867-71.
+ William H. James, 1871-3.
+ Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5.
+ Silas Garber, 1875-9.
+ Albinus Nance, 1879-83.
+ James W. Dawes, 1883.
+
+Allow me to quote from the _Centennial Gazetteer of United States_:
+
+"SURFACE.--Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends along
+the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down toward
+the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. There are
+no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed mountains.
+The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous loam, which
+is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in deeply eroded
+valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest fertility,
+which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, ash, and
+other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. Late surveys
+establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom lands is from
+13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres.
+
+"THE CLIMATE of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of other
+states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The mean
+annual temperature varies from 47° in the northern sections to 57° in
+the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part of
+the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the westerly
+winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress the
+thermometer to 20° and sometimes 30° below zero; while in the summer a
+temperature of 100° and over is not unusual. In the southern tier of
+counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76-1/4°, and of winter,
+30-1/2°. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 inches)
+falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall steadily
+decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the western
+counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the state.
+
+"POPULATION.--Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and in 1870,
+122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, including
+18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population numbered
+30,748.
+
+"EDUCATION.--Nebraska has more organized schools, more school houses,
+and those of a superior character; more money invested in buildings,
+books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the same age.
+The land endowed for the public schools embraces one-eighteenth of the
+entire area of the state--2,623,080 acres." The school lands are sold
+at not less than seven dollars per acre, which will yield a fund of not
+less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from six to ten per cent
+interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. The principal is
+invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished while the
+interest and income alone is used.
+
+The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly
+supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable
+and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in
+Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the
+Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength.
+The Catholic church is fully represented.
+
+The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest
+percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second.
+Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania:
+
+Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write;
+Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write.
+Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891.
+
+Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United
+States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of
+the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at
+the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its
+salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the
+air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low
+temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong,
+cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but
+17°, and of the summer 70°.
+
+I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in
+general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern
+people.
+
+Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not
+accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year--since
+which time there has been rapid developments--will speak volumes for
+the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union.
+
+The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an
+increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828
+in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933
+to 452,542, nearly four-fold.
+
+The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its
+capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a
+population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square
+mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a
+population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would
+have 17,480,000 people.
+
+The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874
+to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per
+year. In 1883 there was raised in the state:
+
+ Wheat 27,481,300.
+ Corn 101,276,000.
+ Oats 21,630,000.
+
+Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has
+prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up
+to Nov. 13, 1883:
+
+ Corn, yield per acre 41 bushels.
+ Quality 85 per cent.
+ Potatoes, Irish 147 bushels.
+ Quality 109 per cent.
+ Potatoes, sweet 114 bushels.
+ Quality 111 per cent.
+ Hay, average tame and wild 2 tons per a.
+ Quality 107 per cent.
+ Sorghum, yield per acre 119 gallons.
+ Grapes, yield and quality 88 per cent.
+ Apples, yield and quality 97 per cent.
+ Pears, yield and quality 52 per cent.
+ Condition of orchards 100 per cent.
+ Spring wheat threshed at date 82 per cent.
+
+Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for
+market, Dec. 1.
+
+In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a
+total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised
+annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and
+250,000 sheep.
+
+The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring
+the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000
+inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into
+the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor
+dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done
+by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence.
+
+During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven
+intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the
+least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the
+state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a
+population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska.
+
+I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women.
+
+"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own
+at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or
+proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall
+come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her
+husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall
+remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage,
+and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for
+his debts.
+
+"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt
+contracted by the wife before marriage."
+
+The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail
+transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two
+years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was
+about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations
+were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft.
+Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.;
+Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers
+left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month;
+carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two
+years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from
+St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in
+sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now
+Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad.
+
+I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising
+people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that
+enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new
+country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after
+while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of
+ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west
+by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a
+strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to
+learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept
+and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear
+great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the
+forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their
+children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has
+furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good
+idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day,
+and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general
+hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska
+could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children.
+
+
+LINCOLN.
+
+In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at
+Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of
+State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and
+locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present
+_capital_ site was chosen--then a wild waste of grasses, where a few
+scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that
+once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster
+post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the
+Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide"
+between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and
+broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public
+buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom
+Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state,
+a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and
+founded a paper town and called it Lancaster.
+
+The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was
+as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the
+state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all
+the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the
+commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the
+summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer,
+which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few
+and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale
+of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he
+received his wages--$300--he remarked that he would not give his pay
+for the whole town site.
+
+The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100
+houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67,
+but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in
+January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was
+realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State
+University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all
+other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold.
+
+The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The
+post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national
+government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were
+reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot
+is a large brick building 183×53 and three stories high, with lunch
+room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room,
+and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices
+on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily
+carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway
+accommodations.
+
+All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were
+given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature,
+which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was
+organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman
+Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69;
+Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A
+number have since been added.
+
+THE STATE JOURNAL CO. On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day following the
+announcement that Lancaster was _the place_ for the capital site there
+appeared in the _Nebraska City Press_ a prospectus for the publication
+of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be called the _Nebraska
+Commonwealth_, C. H. Gere, Editor. But not until the latter part of
+Nov. did it have an established office in the new city. In the spring
+of '69 the _Commonwealth_ was changed to the Nebraska _State Journal_.
+As a daily it was first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B.
+& M.R.R. ran its first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage
+coaches that had been the only means of transportation to the capital.
+In '82 the State Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new
+building on the corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and
+brick, four stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The
+officers are C. H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R.
+Clark, Sec., and H. D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125
+hands. Beside the _Journal_ are the _Democrat_ and _News_, daily; the
+_Nebraska Farmer_, semi-monthly; the _Capital_, weekly; the _Hesperian
+Student_, monthly, published by the students of the University, and the
+_Staats Anzeiger_, a German paper, issued weekly.
+
+On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G
+street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and
+spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But
+Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in
+that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and
+about Lincoln.
+
+Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of
+convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who
+had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act.
+Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready
+to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good
+behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step
+beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all
+the departments--the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where
+brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot
+mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and
+stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at
+the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of
+stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a
+prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4×7 feet, and furnished
+with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to
+write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what
+they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read
+before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom
+are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their
+cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals
+together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives
+and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly
+to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the
+wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation.
+Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each
+other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not
+even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow
+neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until
+seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two
+or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a
+privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general
+hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at
+nine A.M., they are marched in close file to the chapel, where Rev.
+Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and New York,
+gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and Him
+Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian
+doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within
+prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of
+their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's
+daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are
+readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the
+dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his
+services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars,
+the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron
+door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs,
+and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on
+the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left.
+They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to
+see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and
+there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked
+into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I
+have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to
+me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will always
+be watching to see what good men and women you make; great
+philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good
+ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice,
+honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President
+sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your
+name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll
+be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their
+innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised
+to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture
+before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy--a God not only
+to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are
+here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin
+with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched
+drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be
+men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God
+will punish the _cause_, while man calls the effect to account. For my
+part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest drunkard from
+the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest liquor dealer in
+the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he deals out, and
+that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of ruined souls,
+souls for which he will have to answer for before the Great Judge who
+never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt by a jury.
+
+Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt
+we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home.
+
+_Friday._ About two P.M. the sky was suddenly darkened with angry
+looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they grew more
+threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not anxious to
+witness a cyclone, but if one _must_ come, I wanted to watch its
+coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the clouds
+rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and we drove
+out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck of a brick
+building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy fall of
+hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some places.
+This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. [ERRATA.
+Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" read
+"Nebraska is _not_ visited." Third line from bottom leave out the
+word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as some
+suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep over
+some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind that I
+was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather than
+does Pennsylvania.
+
+The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very
+oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature.
+
+_Saturday_ we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and
+drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has
+many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all."
+
+Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine
+view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over
+housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many
+beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120
+feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks,
+five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk
+proper--built of stone, brick, or plank--and the remaining eleven feet
+are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards.
+
+The streets running north and south are numbered from first to
+twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W.
+
+Saturday evening--a beautiful moonlight night--just such a night as
+makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has
+been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the
+mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know
+if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be
+aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because
+I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a
+neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over _after dark_. All saddled,
+Fanny waits at the door, and I must go.
+
+Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back--I'll
+telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am
+told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have
+only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for--but a
+happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start.
+
+ One by one her feet are lifted,
+ One by one she sets them down;
+ Step by step we leave the gatepost,
+ And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle,
+
+when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you
+cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My
+thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey.
+
+Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly.
+But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night,
+and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak--_if I ever reached
+the foot of the mountain_,--that I did not notice that Fanny had
+crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post.
+Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but
+she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg
+him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were
+created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow,
+cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot.
+
+Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie
+Keefer.
+
+"What does it eat?" I asked.
+
+"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all."
+
+I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but
+Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night.
+
+In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was
+asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln.
+Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed
+strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in
+among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and
+cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship.
+They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief,
+requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist
+church, to come and baptise their infants.
+
+I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind,
+but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so
+earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I
+wore an expression of pity instead.
+
+The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and
+seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of
+their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son
+of Africa arose and said:
+
+"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for
+about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And
+Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat
+rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called
+sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit
+by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake
+bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of
+time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my
+time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in
+prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands,
+and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a
+continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the
+prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard.
+One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by
+bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too
+large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while
+she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing,
+if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only
+hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing
+in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it
+was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word
+long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way.
+It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description,
+and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing
+short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was
+very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with
+the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table
+and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride
+and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men
+stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put
+down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could
+not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down,
+and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a
+piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister
+closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander
+would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if
+de Lord am willin, I'll be here too."
+
+A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with
+an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening
+found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes.
+
+Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to
+speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text
+am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua
+commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great
+wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by
+blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book
+of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de
+Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat
+moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine
+it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll
+give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de
+smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and
+not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky
+mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I
+heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful,
+and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is
+expended."
+
+And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while
+we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be
+drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true
+representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four
+long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such
+utter ignorance.
+
+Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been
+"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The
+Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.--The conclusion.
+
+
+Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont.
+Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last
+Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of
+what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the
+storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At
+Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a
+couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed
+to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and
+Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first
+person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before
+she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come
+to meet me, Mrs. Euber?"
+
+"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago."
+
+After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr.
+Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the
+previous week.
+
+"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received
+your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a
+great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you
+didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up."
+
+Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him,
+promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found
+he had not eaten them all--which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called
+on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I
+learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook
+my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey
+home, and find your dear mother well!"
+
+"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing
+better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch
+acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we
+meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are
+stored away for future reference, in quiet hours.
+
+Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the
+thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my
+indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over
+level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed
+over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed
+their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said
+good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont.
+
+Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at
+Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri
+river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car
+where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and
+watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all
+those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have
+returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of
+Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged
+gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross
+the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be
+careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the
+shore."
+
+"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the
+boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall
+into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed
+with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom--but
+we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy
+shores of Iowa.
+
+Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going--of my visit at
+Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family--dear old friends of my
+grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield,
+Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow
+me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there.
+
+July 30, 5:30 P.M. "Will you tell me, please, when we cross the
+Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we crossed
+the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the window and
+shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the hills and
+valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I thought
+there was an air of home in the breezes.
+
+The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at
+Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the
+depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months
+ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I
+gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright
+expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves
+as bright as these I gather?
+
+Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear
+old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return
+again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall
+the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and
+esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent
+people it holds within its arms.
+
+As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in
+a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I
+have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months'
+stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot
+have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the
+little groggeries and make those who _will_ have it, pay the highest
+price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a homestead.
+
+"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too
+dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and
+wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do
+they?
+
+"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B.
+over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants
+of the car.
+
+"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other.
+
+"At the ---- (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve
+a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any
+good."
+
+"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down
+to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where
+everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose
+those young dandies are "Oil Princes"--"Coal Oil Johnnies," you
+know--and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for
+their fun.
+
+When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels
+as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew
+my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take
+the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in
+waiting and only one carriage.
+
+"Go to the ----, lady?"
+
+"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the
+ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge,
+past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open
+saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an
+eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm
+and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I
+guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an
+elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my
+imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that
+He had brought me safely so near home.
+
+"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning.
+
+"Seventy-five cents."
+
+I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please
+take fifty?"
+
+"Why?"
+
+"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel."
+
+"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents
+on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not
+help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several
+little extras I had met with had taken about all.
+
+I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him
+at the breakfast table.
+
+August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of
+rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size,
+but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to
+you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of
+snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that
+glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig
+and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I
+wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and
+how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere
+else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the
+great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the
+many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark."
+They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond
+description.
+
+Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for
+DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then
+out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of
+trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard
+Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is
+dumped down in wild confusion here--mountains and valleys, hills and
+hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones,
+trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed
+with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters
+and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations,
+but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of
+derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills--but now we are 17
+miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is
+the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment
+to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302
+feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of
+silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever
+again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I
+feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the
+honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle,"
+never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and
+exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!"
+
+It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience
+the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks
+at either side, and the cars run very slow.
+
+One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen
+excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great
+valley--its noble trees untouched--and allow it to forever remain as
+one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures.
+
+Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful
+mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500
+feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond
+description, so are the mountains.
+
+J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the
+plains and stood upon the mountain peaks."
+
+To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but
+enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the
+plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His
+children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged
+mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the
+most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union.
+
+Arrived at DuBois 5 P.M. This road has only been in use since in June,
+and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to see the
+trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand,
+and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood Francis
+watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but when he
+recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on before to
+tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I reached the
+"wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, and were
+not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! and the new moon
+looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were glad, happy days,
+but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a few days. Norval to
+go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home.
+
+"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your
+wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting:
+
+"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking
+than when she went away," Maggie said.
+
+August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home,
+through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land,
+the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and
+we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat
+from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I
+thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a
+mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world.
+
+While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a
+shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and
+something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help
+comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little
+western town.
+
+Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we
+go, until we cross Little Mahoning--bless its bright waters!--and once
+more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town--the snuggest, dearest
+little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I
+wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles
+farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays
+aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau,"
+and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the
+gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its
+rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip
+through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase
+Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and
+her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the
+meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me.
+
+"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't
+leave you soon again!"
+
+Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the
+house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we
+frightened Emma and Harry into a cry.
+
+I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she
+strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the
+friends.
+
+Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear
+mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries,
+and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how
+good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at
+my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep.
+
+Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see
+and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel"
+was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit
+Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May,
+shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed--but
+where is Will?
+
+"Out at the oats field?"
+
+"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see
+him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back
+field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go
+through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down
+goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!"
+
+As we trudge down the hill, I said:
+
+"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your
+farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a
+scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state."
+
+"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will
+endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they
+could go along I would like to try life in the West."
+
+Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book
+out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when
+mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed
+look:
+
+"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some
+huckleberries for supper."
+
+Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put
+aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the
+huckleberries are gathered.
+
+Seated again--
+
+"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while
+Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while
+I make a corn cutter."
+
+Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father?
+
+There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand
+that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia.
+
+"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly
+turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then,
+"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn
+cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it
+be a time of peace."
+
+I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the
+latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt
+Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly
+turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my
+sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on
+the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover
+puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr
+to kisses--I mean baby kisses?
+
+Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came
+the apples--golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown.
+And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I
+finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The
+cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and
+although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the
+thermometer says 20° below, yet all I have to do is to take up a
+cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the
+slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all
+over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and
+mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone
+Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though
+I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks.
+Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the
+"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day
+lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of
+faith and trust.
+
+So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for
+the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left
+Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along
+this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary
+winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet
+piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan
+Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave
+Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I
+will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We
+approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge,
+about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the
+whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The
+river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet
+deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225
+feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch
+only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing
+quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the
+bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south
+we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the
+train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again.
+Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and
+see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more
+favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly
+by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I
+am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of
+the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet
+of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our
+view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can
+do justice to Niagara Falls.
+
+I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or
+leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil
+is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy.
+
+A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New
+York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected
+farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit
+river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only
+see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to
+the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not
+get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday
+morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five
+days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some
+of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the
+people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good
+old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of
+the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of
+vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering
+up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought,
+Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and
+earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln
+Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright
+day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the
+panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything
+about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to
+corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look
+for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that
+I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among
+the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked
+upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the
+artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday
+morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the
+Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over
+the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go
+over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I
+left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road
+that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land
+in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the
+Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is
+night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view.
+Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it
+is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the
+Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln,
+arriving there at 12 M. March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's again
+just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and my
+welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home
+with them during my stay in Lincoln.
+
+My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr.
+Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms
+satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year
+from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book
+began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of
+it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of
+hard labor.
+
+How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work,
+kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of
+discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying:
+
+"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the
+labor it involves."
+
+"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work
+cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden
+in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all
+through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put
+it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at
+the last."
+
+"Did He forsake me," do you ask?
+
+"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in
+Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their
+name down without hesitation.
+
+"What security do you want of me?" I asked.
+
+"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book."
+
+"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many
+prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands
+would be reached out to me."
+
+"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so
+keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged."
+
+I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it
+to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his
+confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness
+such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach.
+
+_Friday, May 9th._ I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my dear
+aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father
+spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome
+me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was
+afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the
+water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said:
+"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just
+now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me
+this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of
+sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84
+with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue.
+
+"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up
+to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror
+of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth.
+
+The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the
+sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the
+leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other
+May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my
+May-day in the old familiar places.
+
+Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford,
+and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction,
+friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I
+thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish."
+
+And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in _my_ "Diary
+of a Minister's Wife," I bid you GOOD-BYE.
+
+ [Illustration:
+
+ FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R.
+ AND CONNECTIONS, TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: To and Through Nebraska
+
+Author: Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
+Release Date: January 17, 2014 [EBook #44688]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img width="393" height="600" id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover"></div>
+
+
+<h1>
+TO AND THROUGH<br><big>NEBRASKA</big>.
+</h1>
+<br>
+<div class="titlepage">
+<p class="ctrsmall">
+BY
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img width="240" height="28" src="images/001.jpg" alt="A Pennsylvania Girl."></div>
+<br>
+<p class="ctrsmall">
+<span class="smc">THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT</span> TRUTH<br>
+<span class="smc">IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS,<br>
+WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG<br>
+JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO</span>
+</p>
+
+<br>
+<p class="ctrsmall">
+<i>The Author</i>,
+</p>
+<p class="ctr">
+FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON.
+</p>
+
+<br>
+<p class="ctrsmaller">
+LINCOLN, NEB.<br>
+JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS,<br>
+1884.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="med">
+<h2>
+A WORD TO THE READER.
+</h2>
+
+
+<p>
+If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual
+Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and
+triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and
+valleys, read <a href="#I">Chapter I.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, <a href="#II">Chapter II.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of the great Platte valley, <a href="#III">Chapter III.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, <a href="#IV">Chapter IV.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and
+liquor laws, and Capital, <a href="#V">Chapter V.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the
+world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, <a href="#VI">Chapter VI.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand <i>just
+why</i> this little book&#8212;if such it may be called, came to be written.
+We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a
+Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it
+more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown
+in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned
+lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give
+everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch
+upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a
+stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the
+state from Dakota to Kansas&#8212;306 miles on the S.C. &#38; P.R.R., 291 on the
+U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. &#38; M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the
+state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip
+and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you
+read <span class="smc">ONLY TRUTH</span>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement;
+and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My
+parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing
+the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and
+rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882,
+and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was
+anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my
+youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself&#8212;claimants
+must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I
+promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and
+intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one
+years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the
+pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus
+far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch,
+sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not
+deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet
+I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many
+times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him
+in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry,
+would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered
+with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was
+ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his
+was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the
+power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well
+arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far
+north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go
+there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they
+wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they
+would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably
+detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple
+of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could
+depend for care it was decided that I should go.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a
+"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as
+a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like
+fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I
+never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines
+were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and
+features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The
+squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good,
+sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true,
+who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from
+death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from
+his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the
+old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a
+better life in a new home."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or
+locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack
+mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I
+had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to
+my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had
+written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story
+would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack
+in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross?
+and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book
+in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes
+lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned
+from books, and then the book will be&#8212;only a little pamphlet after all.
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="short">
+<p class="booktitle">
+THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="I">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER I.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford, Pa.,
+in Northern Nebraska&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A Description of the Country in
+which they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha
+Valleys&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;Their First Summer's Work and Harvest.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to
+begin this with words of love of our own native land,&#8212;the state of all
+that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest
+to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one
+vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams
+abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a
+peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to
+become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain
+ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of
+golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil
+that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told&#8212;affording her children
+the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in
+until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go
+out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new
+homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers
+lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony
+for all mankind."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a
+pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by
+Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and
+west branches of the Tunagwant&#8212;or Big Cove&#8212;Creek, and hid away from
+the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in
+1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the
+valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was
+transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and
+selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth,
+until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and,
+forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that
+has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in
+all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class
+money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told
+from a member of the Standard Oil Company.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass
+quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes,
+with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free,
+social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be
+suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and
+operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live
+for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time
+and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of
+living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to
+carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune
+sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only
+for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the
+valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work
+of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are
+yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show
+innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks
+rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a
+feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged
+hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly
+burning, which livens the darkest night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and
+like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning.
+Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and
+spent their money even more lavishingly than it came&#8212;so often counting
+on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing
+and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil,
+when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from
+territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to
+reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then
+new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured
+many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the
+deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new
+fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000
+inhabitants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And
+to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great
+excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not
+only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with
+the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing
+their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their <i>all</i>;
+dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would
+sell and realize a fortune in a few hours.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the
+wealth the day would bring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day
+advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the
+"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top.
+So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and
+happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny,
+and often more than their own were swept.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they
+had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces
+there, but faces that were <i>green</i> with despair. This was only one
+day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is
+"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But
+when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at
+last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the
+country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The
+Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of
+Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A
+colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received
+so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in
+attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week
+after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they
+numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the
+year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws.
+Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed
+must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee;
+but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of
+which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray
+expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and
+lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public
+buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots&#8212;a business and
+residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of
+remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within
+a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of
+spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage.
+Also the keeping of gambling houses."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered
+seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear
+their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in
+northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general
+wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of
+Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed,
+and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian
+reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the
+choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where
+nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of
+many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after
+many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was
+arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and
+Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April
+appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains
+of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when
+anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high
+for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager
+pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and
+landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only
+those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold
+kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize
+what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty,
+and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would
+bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of
+the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can
+know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some
+of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county,
+chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to
+Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making
+and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than
+when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more
+substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or
+monopoly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done,
+homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many
+sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday
+morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but
+it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the
+going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those
+left behind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the
+exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and
+joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were
+companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye"
+hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving
+those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father
+and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left
+behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by
+long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long
+letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the
+hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they
+as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying
+all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all
+just to keep back the sobs and tears.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated
+many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must
+go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load
+of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping
+of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we
+were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle
+westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we
+received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left
+behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure
+snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is
+heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears
+until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity,
+even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it
+seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking
+back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled
+with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the
+cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of
+hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among
+the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and
+busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging
+everything for comfort sake.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends,
+which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one
+bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil
+and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a
+number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow
+them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all
+the good things a lunch basket can be stored with.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua,
+now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom
+people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most
+popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles
+wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville,
+we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to
+speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would
+call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose
+their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we
+rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the
+childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball
+so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the
+last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would
+slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of
+Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points,
+we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all
+sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony
+babe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad
+farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and
+jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed
+to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the
+children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the
+racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing
+Cleveland&#8212;leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city
+and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight
+hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn
+with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears,
+such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind
+lines I then had written:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers,</div>
+<div class="i1">Your loveliness we'll strew</div>
+<div>From Washington to Cleveland's soil,</div>
+<div class="i1">The funeral cortege through.</div>
+<div>In that loved land that gave him birth</div>
+<div class="i1">We lay him down to rest,</div>
+<div>'Tis but his mangled form alone,</div>
+<div class="i1">His soul is with the blest.</div>
+<div>Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist</div>
+<div class="i1">With many a falling tear,</div>
+<div>A mist is over all this land</div>
+<div class="i1">For him we loved most dear.</div></div>
+
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing;</div>
+<div class="i1">In mournful strains and slow,</div>
+<div>While in the tomb we gently lay,</div>
+<div class="i1">Our martyred Garfield low.</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but
+rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take
+up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled
+down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may
+be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who
+never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we
+leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting
+hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr.
+Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee
+pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's
+generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup,
+until he is now rinsing the grounds.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain
+would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word
+we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than
+all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest
+comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand
+almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains
+and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since
+childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first
+loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind.
+'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a
+better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the
+same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of
+the world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were
+surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white
+sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill
+to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant
+to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large
+and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were
+quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of
+the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area,
+24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88
+miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled
+in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we
+bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on,
+with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only
+to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a
+decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around
+by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing
+his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but
+little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house,
+which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The
+Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats,
+being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It
+made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were
+anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of
+humanity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not
+sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. &#38; P.R.R.,
+and rolled out on the C. &#38; N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty
+flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands
+and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of
+Illinois&#8212;rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or
+stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing
+everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board,
+barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing
+green.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far
+apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Crossed the Mississippi river about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span>, and when
+mid-way over was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and
+about a mile in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off
+the old grass, which was a novel sight to us.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark
+just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more
+like a delegation from "Blackville"&#8212;from the soot and cinder-dirt&#8212;than
+a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a
+camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three
+o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by
+moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into
+the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East
+miss the rough, rugged hills of home!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,&#8212;as one remarked, "not from
+behind a hill, but right out of the ground"&#8212;ushering in another
+beautiful day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to
+see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer
+boats&#8212;three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was
+leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull
+lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and
+have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we
+never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore
+in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but
+"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand.
+Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not
+use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of
+a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point,
+the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned.
+When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had
+a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east
+to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level
+lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for
+the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet
+we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within.
+Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no
+other home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who
+would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it
+certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us
+who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not
+expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more
+devoted to the old home than before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they
+had not helped to bear us on their bosom to&#8212;we did not know what. How
+little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no
+rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters."
+Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the
+waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the
+world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out
+on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on
+just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores
+that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the
+voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and
+thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be
+more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast
+adrift upon the sea of <i>our</i> life; and though they may be tempest
+tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and
+switched on to Nebraska's <i>terra firma</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place,
+but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered
+westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger
+agent of the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he
+fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he
+represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of
+Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had
+just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for
+"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many
+were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we
+flattered ourselves that we <i>did</i> well sustain the old family
+honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded
+Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in
+which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us.
+Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you
+all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm
+and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a
+day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at
+a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather
+half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was
+sung out, and we were on with the rest&#8212;to go calling and visit with
+our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the
+monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of
+the cars.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string;
+mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt
+I was going only to soon leave them&#8212;they to scatter over the plains,
+and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a
+mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received
+a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down
+the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we
+had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as
+they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we
+reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from
+the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. He
+received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed
+in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days'
+journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the
+claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly
+had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with
+him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already
+be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead
+grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire,
+and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground&#8212;it has the same
+rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west
+we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and
+sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us
+when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and
+what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of
+fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses
+far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw
+this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who
+had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the
+prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his
+luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped
+at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be
+cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of
+"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but
+were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the
+car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I
+hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west?
+I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our
+tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with
+the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were
+not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of
+such an act.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station,
+Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors
+locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our
+first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our
+coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a
+good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and
+could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a
+comfortable resting place for the night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air
+of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like
+birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their
+nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists
+expected to find their nests of homes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark
+that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had
+to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the
+songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a
+mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader,
+the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took
+right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after
+the smoke had cleared away, looked&#8212;and&#8212;well&#8212;we missed paper and
+pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown
+that followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of
+Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind
+of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost
+among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and
+stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to
+breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to
+note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote
+down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will
+sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until
+breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something&#8212;I didn't
+know what, but full of curiosity went to see.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that
+arrived last night?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming
+implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went
+to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as
+ox-plows were concerned.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey,
+and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast
+before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made
+an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if
+the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on
+to&#8212;reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole
+truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of
+the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey
+better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do
+you think of a climate like that?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales,
+and in reality we had only eaten&#8212;I mean we had only gained one and a
+half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper
+were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there
+trying to sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Home-sick?" we asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the
+depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad
+through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to
+secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being
+claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the
+morrow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be
+seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the
+evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above
+his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with
+the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday morning.</i> Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the
+men started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and
+ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded
+with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who
+were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was
+the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that
+western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers
+of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town.
+But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and
+wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival.
+Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to
+anxious ones in the East.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie,
+about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the
+river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely
+turned already and didn't know the town I had just left.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and
+is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water
+is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook
+and line, spears and seine are used instead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked,
+yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there
+is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the
+streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops,
+and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,&#8212;cross
+I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know
+what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear
+what Prof. Aughey says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state.
+It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley
+widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and
+often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river
+approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into
+the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its
+course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall,
+and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable
+manufacturing region."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we
+made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not
+have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the
+water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while
+the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some
+places its bed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it
+quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high;
+plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white;
+roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of
+the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had
+a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and
+walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a
+frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the
+shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the
+bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened
+with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it
+down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves
+the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at
+first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many
+inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water
+from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is
+easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight.
+But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you,
+forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills
+fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly
+sod, dot the surrounding country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday, 30th.</i> Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little
+sunshine. For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought
+and found a very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John
+Skirving, of whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought
+his family from Jefferson City, Iowa.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday.</i> A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes
+through everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters
+in camp near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with
+nothing but their tent for shelter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Wednesday.</i> About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have
+snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine
+rain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at
+home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Thursday.</i> And still it rains and blows!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday.</i> A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I
+got out of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther
+west, and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to
+me I scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down
+and quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed
+in the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I
+hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing
+had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise
+than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to
+make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that
+I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I
+had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half
+expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared
+away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so
+dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that
+the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon
+dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty
+dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday.</i> Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The
+majority in good heart and looking well despite the weather and
+exposure they have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few
+are discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still
+farther northwest&#8212;some going as far west as Holt creek, and so
+scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a
+disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the
+same church and school would serve them all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily,
+through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the
+colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been
+claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located
+more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more
+deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was
+purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be
+a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top,
+which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the
+wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and
+hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again,
+and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles
+in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and
+then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office
+and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there
+was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend
+the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim,
+hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see
+a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Sunday, 6 May.</i> Bright and warm. Would not have known there had
+been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely
+dried, and walking pleasant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon,
+and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the
+Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it
+quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even
+here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our
+attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going,
+and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on
+this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness:
+"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn
+valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their
+presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be
+sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with
+thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him
+we can look for care and protection at all times.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on
+temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people,
+as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in
+"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from
+"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the
+same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we
+had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare
+to think how far we were from its shelter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his
+love is just the same the wide world over.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday.</i> Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the
+location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but
+themselves to care for, have started.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday.</i> Rains. Folks disappointed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Wednesday.</i> Rains and blows. Discouraging.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Thursday.</i> Blows and rains. <i>Very</i> discouraging.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season.
+Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in
+some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard
+frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the
+colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in
+comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know
+where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build
+their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their
+families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I
+cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I
+am greatly in sympathy with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I
+feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes."
+Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the
+land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I
+am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds
+with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson
+county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me
+some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I
+have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every
+kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home;
+in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give
+every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on
+my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own
+care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I
+trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and
+protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while
+I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew
+before&#8212;though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my
+appetite, as well as the climate&#8212;yet every one experiences an increase
+of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called
+"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft
+beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his
+complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the
+eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and
+wherever it found him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday.</i> Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a
+prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at
+night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The
+prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields
+of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow
+the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen
+some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter
+upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so
+long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to
+drive their cattle out to the "divides,"&#8212;hills between rivers&#8212;to
+pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on
+them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch
+a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her
+pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to
+scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have
+also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with
+the good.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants
+keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara
+country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great
+hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every
+worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top.
+Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon,
+which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole
+in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with
+them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are
+generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the
+wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking,
+overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often
+patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and
+children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the
+rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that
+look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show
+they have had a good living where they came from.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good
+education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright
+little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from
+Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving
+Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the
+country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon,
+spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her
+husband attended to several valuable Texas horses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three
+weeks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How can you travel through such weather?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the
+rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Never get sick?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not even a cold?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How many miles can you go in a day?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We average about twenty."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look
+healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of
+people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go
+whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure
+we owe the opening up of the western country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday morning.</i> Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared
+off nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All
+getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr.
+Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of
+oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the
+majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so,
+much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and
+left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double
+bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last
+week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by
+Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S.
+gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to
+bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off
+the currants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska
+behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I
+think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along.
+Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the
+wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and
+as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under
+the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them
+with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well
+trained by the time we reach the end of our journey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far
+we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We
+are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows
+running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road
+running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart,
+but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I
+see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and
+make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to
+pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt.
+The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile
+stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation,
+not even Stuart to be seen from this point.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look
+out and perhaps I will find one.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be
+a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it.
+Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right
+are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles
+away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the&#8212;oxen of
+about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy
+walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles,
+wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had
+tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new
+homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying
+supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo
+stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which
+gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its
+protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery
+and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real
+little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called,
+but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear
+water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland
+in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks <i>are</i> sweeter for
+singing to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their
+foam," and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to
+the many that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on
+the hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had
+reigned within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the
+walls falling.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as
+the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for
+your sake, reader.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that
+stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite
+new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother
+their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at
+least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie
+is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of
+the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back
+memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly
+written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims."
+All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put
+forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an
+undertaking for me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is what?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, that stick for a whip-handle."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had
+seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night
+at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to
+the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of
+way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am
+not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with
+travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady,
+though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we
+are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the
+few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen
+all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no
+bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and
+will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just
+shut my eyes until we are on the other side.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to
+secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not
+disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite
+crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the
+setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of
+the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast
+this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the
+Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing
+most interesting.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my
+barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name
+it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48&#176;,
+think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair
+ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the
+banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and
+bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen,
+almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses
+the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock
+that juts out of the hill&#8212;first stone or rock seen since we entered
+the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man
+coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the
+hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help
+you gentlemen, but that off-horse is <i>terribly weak</i>. The other
+horse is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak
+that off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse.
+While we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough
+to learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he
+was lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly
+who have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men
+push, but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud.
+The men debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and
+carry them up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my
+suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk
+with, "That's it&#8212;only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and
+a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men,
+while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to
+go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk,
+as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill,
+across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with
+a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a
+narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond
+willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie
+schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very
+good harbor for these ships of the west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What kind of a shanty is this?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't
+think worth while to light up in the evening."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I
+can scarcely take another step.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open
+door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered
+about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, just across the river where you see that light."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel
+about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and <i>so glad</i> to get to <i>somewhere</i>.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly
+after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his
+hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here
+before dark.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr.
+Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs.
+M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon.
+Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But
+Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take
+them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to
+all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good
+supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get
+laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new
+apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod
+roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on
+the floor, while the family occupies the old part.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of
+the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently
+pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general
+uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of
+the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping
+into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said,
+"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer
+shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log
+house, 14&#215;16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen,
+dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture,
+without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the
+family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and
+son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this
+old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the
+comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and
+dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened.
+The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men
+have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the
+house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the
+ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing
+over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking
+badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in.
+Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone
+Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion,
+but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm,
+so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing
+machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with
+carpet and rubber coats.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and
+meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river&#8212;hope it is meat cast
+adrift for some hungry traveler&#8212;and some one has used my loaf for a
+cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So
+I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free
+from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted
+experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way.
+Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while
+the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and
+prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and
+went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the
+<i>hotel</i> where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the
+shelter we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their
+wagons, and wonder where the rest of our party are.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters
+makes us even more homesick.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every
+thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I
+<i>do wish</i> it would stop!" "When <i>will</i> it clear off?" "Does
+it <i>always</i> rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of
+times, only to cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving
+sixteen souls crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could.
+Just how was a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question.
+Reader, I wish you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me
+by the stove, I then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you
+ever read Mark Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well,
+there are a few <i>innocents abroad</i>, just now, <i>roughing it</i>
+to their hearts' content.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down
+crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some
+blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick,
+sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores.
+Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker&#8212;there, I knew she would rock on Mr.
+Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double
+up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a
+better chance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might
+perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be
+dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and
+then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do
+pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself
+fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a
+chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on
+two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie,
+you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before
+the stove, and list&#8212;he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a
+pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots
+and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that
+than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden
+pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if
+he doesn't stop nodding so far back.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more
+words of Kathrina.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the
+bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and
+crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been
+driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog,
+give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then;
+casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep,
+because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather
+scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of
+these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these
+sleepers must be kept warm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet
+and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does
+weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small
+as the unoccupied space, that's all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my
+eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the
+oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do?
+To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the
+floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get
+up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I
+leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that
+"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just
+as they can, mostly. So
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>All cuddled up together,</div>
+<div>In a little weenty heap,</div>
+<div>I double up my pillow</div>
+<div>And laugh myself to sleep.</div>
+<div>I know you will not blame me</div>
+<div>If I dream of home so bright&#8212;</div>
+<div>I'll see you in the morning</div>
+<div>So now a kind "good night".</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt
+further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little
+bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is
+seeking rest for to-night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for
+breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep
+longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't
+always slept on a table?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning,
+could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were
+sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are
+surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in
+almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension
+table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the
+dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this
+chapter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever
+regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge,"
+and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights'
+lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought
+they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor,
+to sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday morning.</i> Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start
+about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies
+ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push
+them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in
+the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in
+the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on
+over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to
+snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head
+well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to
+start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the
+trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all
+sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking
+and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and
+pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try
+hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this
+bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I
+pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only
+variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a
+tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for
+several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost
+trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both
+of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that
+neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two
+squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces
+looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their
+situation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground
+soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near
+where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared
+their lands, the country took on a better appearance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that
+look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and
+very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if
+possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept
+up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How
+much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were
+ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a
+plow, and asked no more questions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross
+with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a
+signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open
+arms."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married
+brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner.
+After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to
+the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara
+and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four <span class="smc">P.M.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home
+until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us
+feel quite at home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well
+supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent"
+to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"The sweetest songs are never sung;</div>
+<div>The fairest pictures never hung;</div>
+<div>The fondest hopes are never told&#8212;</div>
+<div>They are the heart's most cherished gold."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer,
+when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois
+City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L.
+added her beautiful children's stories.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them,
+and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization.
+How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to
+read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday, 15th of May</i>, dawned without a cloud, and how bright
+everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor
+backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change
+from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my
+May day, but the story is a long one&#8212;too long for the pages of my
+little book.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to
+gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the
+hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of
+the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans,
+and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs
+were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were
+of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited
+the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful
+place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite
+homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every
+color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the
+Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success,
+after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house
+where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which,
+Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte,
+twelve miles west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close
+to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past
+the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss
+Minn to join our maying party.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's
+growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with
+blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as
+they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered
+trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the
+valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most
+of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands
+alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20
+acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is
+covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of
+a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they
+are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others
+that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the
+touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had
+been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a
+shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but
+those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists;
+tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country
+were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and
+wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden
+treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a
+moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of
+dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I
+felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day,
+and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars,"
+for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will
+allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know
+where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite
+distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war
+whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the
+north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained
+from this elevated point was grand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the
+north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the
+water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs
+extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong
+to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but
+without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or
+rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance
+is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim
+takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a
+plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me
+the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's
+and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the
+sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone,
+to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel
+lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our
+many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in
+places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of
+spring?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton,
+your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western
+girls would think of such a thing!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It
+was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th
+of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens,
+gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or
+have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the
+difference in the years to me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and
+the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of
+an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring
+in bloom, and I could not but gather of all&#8212;even the tiniest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and
+remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the
+previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not
+so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over
+the serious illness of a loved sister.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers
+with tear-dimmed eyes&#8212;sister May was dead, and everywhere it was
+desolate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we
+gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy
+mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and
+miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that
+almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and
+shared them with May, by laying them on her grave.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I
+celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost
+untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the
+favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks
+where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will
+gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so
+lonely thinking of their daughter so far away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle&#8212;sister
+Maggie's oldest child&#8212;who came to me for a May-flower in '76.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was
+growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to
+gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears
+that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown,
+for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to
+me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live <i>good</i> lives and yet not make
+the <i>most</i> of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good
+and useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good
+and useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of
+the hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and
+prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now
+budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will
+be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone
+Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious
+mementos of our May-day in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"&#8212;the
+term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance,
+and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a
+neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately
+come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the
+life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I
+tell these little things that those who do not already know, may
+understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie
+ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or <i>minnie</i> in
+the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor
+woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a
+word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and
+then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright,
+pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a
+new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright
+and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a
+drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a
+half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least,
+the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky
+complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black
+braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears.
+Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could
+not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her
+face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus
+she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their <i>tepee</i>.
+The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two
+apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove,
+table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed
+covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen
+except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The
+furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and
+neatness I had not expected.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to
+smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then
+drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf
+tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought,
+it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege
+lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband
+laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her.
+She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the
+lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left
+feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who
+would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor;
+labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw
+is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by
+those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by
+the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians
+are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing
+every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice,
+coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have
+no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as
+Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why
+not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the
+white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or
+die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to
+adopt!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no
+one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in
+the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You
+don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led
+the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built,
+so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting
+to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag
+carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by
+being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had
+the partition been finished.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were
+cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and
+looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected
+without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with
+my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare
+your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I
+long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for
+society."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right
+out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and
+experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by
+friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs.
+W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known
+the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes
+overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost.
+Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock
+raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of
+their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and
+during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod,
+but of lumber.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling
+here will help it so much, and now we will stay."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing
+she had a taste for the beautiful.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made
+our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the
+buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked
+like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a
+prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground
+homes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his
+house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to
+frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn
+toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six
+of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had
+joined them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we
+finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun,
+suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and
+where?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to
+many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept
+hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms,
+and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want
+the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross
+over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs
+of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the
+colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well
+filled with weather stayed emigrants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not
+come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday
+night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When
+daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along
+the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river
+and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the
+journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies
+dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned
+his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left
+Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with
+sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found
+for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned
+that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter
+prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what
+you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not
+expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country
+just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find
+the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would
+not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged
+when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt
+for your motto, "What <i>others</i> have done <i>I</i> can do." Allow
+me to give you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any
+of the colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the
+disadvantages of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April
+of '79 I came to this country to look up a home where I could have good
+cattle range. When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs
+crosswise to look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further
+west, but returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help
+of a young man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was
+under roof. While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made
+garden. We then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and
+came back in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two
+months' supply of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than
+Keya Paha, thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact,
+was about the nearest house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon
+had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his
+reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail,
+that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to
+come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose
+reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number
+together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the
+government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat,
+and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is
+worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is
+strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them
+right on the war-path.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made
+Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from
+Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time
+it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a
+distance of about sixty miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school
+house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister
+(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of
+firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s
+father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower
+part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many
+a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of
+satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give
+them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on
+reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters
+have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without
+meeting a soul on the way.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The
+Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid
+of them."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to
+"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about
+seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr
+oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have
+over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and
+brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us
+took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent;
+went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of
+an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From
+the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet
+strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful
+frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's
+dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his
+blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower
+limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their
+meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant
+plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind
+of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with
+needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding
+their finger ends than was Mr. Clark.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from
+drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about
+all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away,
+I can tell you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson
+from their experience&#8212;never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't
+hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it
+takes good strong material to stand the wind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the
+prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is
+indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving
+grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave
+great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new
+growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was
+not burnt.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same
+time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive
+nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say,
+burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass
+roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy
+soil.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees.
+Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often
+planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato
+patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To
+prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a
+supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of
+course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has
+passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a
+cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday, 21st.</i> Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn
+planting.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to
+be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be
+interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to,
+so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned
+and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that
+closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their
+broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on
+which cattle are grazing&#8212;that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo"
+(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as
+the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only
+to now and then take a stroll over it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half
+a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and
+then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called
+table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing
+line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth,
+where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here,
+thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet
+deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says
+"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the
+water is clear and pleasant to the taste.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on
+the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and
+from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich.
+The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there
+are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak,
+elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in
+the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums,
+choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one
+has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size
+and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead
+of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom
+so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in
+great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines
+that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes"
+of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry,
+which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little
+white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a
+foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not
+choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they
+are pleasant to the taste and refreshing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black
+currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the
+snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are
+starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said
+to be equally as good as the poled hops of home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs.
+K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the
+buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum,
+and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in
+clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from
+the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in
+color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters,
+and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It
+belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as
+ordinary beans and eaten&#8212;if at starvation point. Of the other flowers
+gathered mention was made on my May-day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is
+easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet
+not very hard.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other
+half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen
+inches to two feet deep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by
+those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are.
+"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing
+country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted
+with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far
+from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad
+nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be
+long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free
+from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in
+Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow
+tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want;
+no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we
+will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us
+to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little
+alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"&#8212;to
+scatter over&#8212;and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden
+and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all
+they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the
+building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber
+culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in
+cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in
+stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see
+it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a
+general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers
+will tell the story of its worth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I
+hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of
+an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so
+interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding
+away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down
+to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was
+anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy
+poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof
+for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have
+during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer
+nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while
+of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a
+dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and
+surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real
+to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man
+who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their
+herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as
+he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a
+half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma.
+I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was
+before I came west."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The room was about 10&#215;12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and
+part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made
+when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they
+lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude&#8212;so far
+removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the
+stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only
+retreats for the night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the
+Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and
+wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course,
+or else I am turned all wrong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Tuesday.</i> Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to
+regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together,
+going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with
+a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh!
+I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she
+talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble
+monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no
+doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could
+do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and
+gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I
+felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as
+much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to
+Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K.
+and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been
+forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And
+Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted
+on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and
+improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a
+kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them
+all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and
+soon the little group of friends were left behind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to
+part from them?&#8212;Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people
+all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with
+them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the
+spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that
+the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our
+good plans could not be carried out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with
+eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even
+had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a
+nice settlement of people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance
+to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all
+together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just
+where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are
+only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many
+acres.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no
+good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the
+unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose
+wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for
+the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over
+the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The
+tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses
+to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and
+the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may
+learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow
+and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up
+between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod
+with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you
+plant the next hill&#8212;I mean hole&#8212;of corn.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and
+not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania
+roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of
+them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at
+last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry
+home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the
+prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles
+away up here!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized
+sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as
+though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out
+or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and
+now the sea has all gone to grass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that
+I may have a better view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been
+made?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, by the action of the wind and water."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense
+scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape,
+size, and depth."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren
+of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well
+filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on
+the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me
+for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and
+when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to
+some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way,
+I will take another ride behind oxen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for
+stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the
+maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those
+who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did
+not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle
+were stolen without personal regard for the owner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some
+time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still
+committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who
+feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose
+their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter
+from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses
+stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their
+favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's
+bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid
+me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more
+of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of
+other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and
+quite inviting after our long ride.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or
+<i>Running Water</i>. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by,
+as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it
+empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it
+enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide;
+but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps
+in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses
+its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the
+Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a
+pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a
+couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my
+satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset
+picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for
+memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow
+stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered
+with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years
+ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river
+bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed
+heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills,
+and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their
+toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by
+this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack
+"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get
+near it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to
+settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the
+colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the
+land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame
+of the colony will people this country by many times the number of
+actual settlers it itself will bring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I
+attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet
+hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara,
+and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on
+toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful
+valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide,
+but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an
+interesting picture.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side
+of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land
+on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are
+persuaded to test it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north
+side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more
+than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have
+sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call
+the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also
+the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink
+flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny
+flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only
+the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening,
+and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was
+not; but the leaves convinced me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the
+flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem
+to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the
+sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be
+found about Stuart when I left.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and&#8212;"Oh, horror! Mr.
+Newell, look out for the red-skins!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where, Miss Fulton, where?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire
+to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some
+sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian
+blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare
+me scalp."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for
+the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in
+suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first
+chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake
+you up.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a
+prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted
+a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying
+to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a
+mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the
+bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as
+though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the
+"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies
+traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and
+all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of
+worldly goods along.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation
+is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up
+government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good
+homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the
+land for the claiming of it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I
+have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am
+not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty
+welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner."
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier,
+and not tell more of them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one
+whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and
+energy, I quote:
+</p>
+
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p class="ralign">
+"<span class="sc">Brewer, P.O. Brown Co., Neb.</span>,
+</p>
+
+<p class="ralign">
+"December 23, '83.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better
+satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done
+better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled)
+per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger
+vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40,
+wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first
+year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it
+costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and
+windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at
+the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use,
+a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the
+chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight
+feet.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They
+charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs,
+sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two
+and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make
+the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own
+hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in
+the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September,
+and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the
+colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for
+my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will."
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+From another:
+</p>
+
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p>
+"We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have
+some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are
+going to have a reunion 16 February."
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p class="ralign">
+"<span class="sc">Brewer</span>, Jan., 8.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been
+getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th
+December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since
+Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken
+around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of
+years to have schools and plenty of neighbors."
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>
+Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no
+sickness reported from climating.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is
+a good country for the few of us that came."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the
+little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that
+have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the
+horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have
+been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and
+lodging a greater number in jail.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to
+rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace
+and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all
+things good!
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="II">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER II.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Over the Sioux City &#38; Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri
+Valley.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A visit to Ft. Niobrara.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. &#38;
+P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from
+Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about.
+Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr.
+Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by
+sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the
+Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not
+give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of
+the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that
+neighborhood making it their head-quarters.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for
+ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday
+evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me
+for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we
+availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by
+daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who
+busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck
+and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain
+with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and
+that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no
+nothing but prairie.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be
+going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we
+all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent
+braces himself against the stove, and I&#8212;well I just shake and laugh.
+It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the
+agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face
+and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that
+his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last
+Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara
+and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't
+know when to be thankful, do they?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and
+not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that
+of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is
+prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems
+quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade
+again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her
+head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't
+shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the
+country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills
+or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine,
+where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them
+of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to
+meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a
+walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees
+that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen
+from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made
+haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it
+was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see
+more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular
+passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening
+was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested
+upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the
+company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home
+where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I
+am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has
+repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll"
+folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is
+silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful
+hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from
+home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to
+Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and
+the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my
+coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the
+depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and
+protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I
+trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has
+always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know
+He will not forsake me now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence,
+says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I believe I will go, after all."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the
+depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just
+rising.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until
+our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and
+spend Sunday at Long Pine.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat,
+fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman
+back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman
+across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old
+mother!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there&#8212;well, I scarcely know what that
+is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair
+of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But
+while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a
+great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved,
+it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you
+see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of
+gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat
+in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our
+background.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes
+up, and the fatherly old gent rouses.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he
+asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am a member of the colony," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they
+getting along?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as
+lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial
+introductions. But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves
+us with a pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be
+J. Wesley Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at
+Valentine, but says it is too rough and bad to take his family there,
+and tells stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The
+thoughtful man is Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago,
+who will spend his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine,
+and this is his first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister
+that has been bold enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks;
+"Is the colony supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our
+mission talks of sending one to them if they would wish it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching,
+as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination
+is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no
+church and no school house nearer than three miles."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the
+people together."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and
+their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to
+Valentine, and remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I gathered some very interesting history from&#8212;&#8212;"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well if you believe all old &#8212;&#8212; tells you, you may just believe
+everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured
+a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and
+listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter
+recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random,
+not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in
+testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about
+their ears."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to
+Valentine," I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort
+sake, "no danger of you getting shot, <i>unless</i> by <i>mere
+accident</i>. They are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never
+known to insult a lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when
+they are on a spree, they are as <i>wild</i> as <i>wild</i> can be;"
+with an ominous shake of his head.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Can't say, indeed; <i>hope not</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he
+could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his
+hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and
+baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one
+lodged that came through the house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car
+to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement
+than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the
+most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card
+with:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the
+Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your
+courage."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake <cite>Tribune</cite>,
+Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be
+able to do them as much good as others of more experience could."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would
+be among them. Mrs. P. whispered:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing
+us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after
+sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn
+much of Valentine, I know all I care to now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy&#8212;I
+could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he
+wore&#8212;changed the subject with:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no
+alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this
+railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many
+a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a
+good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these
+sand hills then as there is now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through
+all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look
+old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks
+all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression;
+and I have been judging you so harshly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to
+thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a
+good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is
+there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the
+old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in
+heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an
+evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and
+protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far
+beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers
+a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while
+remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in
+fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless
+auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in
+prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and
+goodness, I go and feel I am not <i>alone</i>. Had it not been for my
+faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey;
+but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your
+stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look
+down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest
+to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would
+write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had
+written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of
+Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr.
+Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So
+gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not
+care to sleep, for&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet,</div>
+<div>To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep.</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the
+Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were
+so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills
+glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of
+silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me
+from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating
+along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as
+though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was
+eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to
+waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and
+put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a
+greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but
+more interesting from its plainer view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country
+as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door
+of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level
+grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and
+sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely
+anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries,
+white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath
+the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly
+bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when
+"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to
+"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went
+to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50
+cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the
+depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four
+passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered
+about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from
+it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the
+bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon
+door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs.
+P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself
+close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a
+protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at
+first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a
+resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all
+quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder.
+Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and
+soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I
+would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down
+stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the
+fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man,
+with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to
+him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and
+some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed
+with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of
+revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine
+looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than
+of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an
+improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy
+in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long
+at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a
+better life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened
+expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his
+head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face
+I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general
+favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going
+away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know
+how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number.
+I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone,
+excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to
+read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your
+sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so
+often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a
+wild misspent life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not
+think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store
+and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot.
+Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear
+banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but
+was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to
+walk about and see the town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what
+looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray
+rocks and pine trees.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost
+perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or
+Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the
+Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that
+it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained
+of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of
+it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the
+Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited
+sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about
+100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is
+broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their
+steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing
+in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small
+amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile
+wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a
+time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which
+are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an
+interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a
+pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which
+they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags
+are lost to view in their own wanderings."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was
+but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the
+town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from
+Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand
+banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy
+homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and
+two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the
+Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and
+number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land
+office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land
+of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about
+twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is
+not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very
+long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and
+returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left
+there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade
+Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest
+wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant,
+which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be
+but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that
+direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he
+would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better
+view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and
+then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte
+that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around
+it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed,
+and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over
+Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even
+extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any
+information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that
+afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that
+was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see
+a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"&#8212;a block house with
+loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort
+Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses,
+most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square.
+The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large,
+handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings,
+chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc.
+Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and
+reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the
+officers and privates.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under
+restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is
+punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods,
+a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the
+buildings are the stables&#8212;one for the gray and another for the sorrel
+horses&#8212;about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small
+trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly
+termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the
+driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that
+it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to
+duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at
+a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are
+boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for
+driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received
+fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their
+wives there&#8212;and but few are allowed that privilege&#8212;do so with the
+understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for
+the soldiers in return for their own keeping.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the
+chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were
+kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon
+called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D.
+entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never
+was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time
+in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of
+interest about me, and my time so limited.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly
+consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I
+quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the
+bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out
+of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we
+were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs
+that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand
+and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the
+cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched
+the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys
+in one company, and sorrels in another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a
+post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of
+the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could
+not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of
+soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000
+Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so
+disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be
+retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole
+keeper and support&#8212;"Uncle Sam."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest
+praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad,
+as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my
+own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he
+spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of
+brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn,
+known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a
+brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good
+soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent
+death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man
+and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is
+interesting, I will briefly repeat it:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for
+believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and
+rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became
+known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long
+after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort,
+and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took
+with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they
+had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock
+fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot
+by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to
+let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the
+confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians,
+who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies
+under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They
+followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under
+arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not
+allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life&#8212;a poor
+return for such a one as he had taken.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this
+the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker
+of his life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail
+was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians
+were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let
+Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when
+Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the
+agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted
+Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the
+wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely
+followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave
+himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but
+has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort
+Pierre.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to
+return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3
+o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he
+immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a
+half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And
+bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our
+way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange
+beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short,
+yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train
+left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough
+looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established
+by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train.
+The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of
+ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on
+us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we
+wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine.
+So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a
+gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a
+couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the
+train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a
+greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Do mules ever run off?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Sometimes they do."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I guess not."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long
+lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train
+on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government
+mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not
+add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the
+very worst of mules.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off,
+and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and
+then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half
+miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he
+helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood&#8212;chips
+from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of
+our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet
+as in the morning.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr.
+T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs,
+which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large
+cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground.
+They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the
+settling up of the country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th
+meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the
+man whom I thought must be a pony boy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to
+travel in only a baggage car!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back,
+and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. T. remarked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own
+company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the
+train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I
+will speak to the conductor in your behalf.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor
+and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that
+I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least
+discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt
+very much alone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I
+sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I
+sang&#8212;just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and
+songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man
+think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then
+to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way,
+and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was
+always answered in the most respectful manner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a
+sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any
+one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and
+whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, all I got written was:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy
+roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high;
+river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through
+a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom.
+Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the
+cuts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Thatcher</span>, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the
+train from their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8&#215;10 deserted
+store-house almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter,
+Vegetables, and Eggs," out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars'
+worth have been sold. Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin
+fruit cans are strewn all around.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level
+grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told,
+are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Arabia</span>, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Wood Lake</span>, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some
+one has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is
+scarcely a house to be seen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Johnstown</span>, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking
+on a better appearance&#8212;farm houses dotting the country in every
+direction. Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty
+little town, a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place
+again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach
+Long Pine about six o'clock.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I
+have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises
+and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence.
+Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use
+of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the
+stranger for thinking so wrongly of him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J.
+Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie,
+fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south,
+and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has
+one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber
+yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one
+restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all
+to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a
+membership of thirteen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of
+seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its
+growth since then.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been
+decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated
+portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the
+people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question.
+Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight
+Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all
+foreigners that go west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number
+of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the
+result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation
+months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A
+bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth.
+There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river,
+yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand
+acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a
+continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken.
+The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and
+the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance.
+Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are
+still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this
+place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter
+for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough
+for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts.
+The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will
+give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its
+merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per
+acre; potatoes, weighing 3&#189; pounds, and 400 bushels per acre;
+cabbage, 22 pounds&#8212;&#8212;"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so
+favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort
+Niobrara, that he disposed of his <cite>Tribune</cite> office, and returned,
+and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken,
+and located at Ainsworth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of
+later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's
+stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in
+preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services
+in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One
+saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the
+saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but
+did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the
+stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet
+with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who
+join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt
+there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry
+(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many
+of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are
+runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting
+stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and
+the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who
+remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer
+in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are
+spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for
+a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in
+looking."
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+LONG PINE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek
+of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery
+and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there
+could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of
+nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired
+early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this
+hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests
+the better for its absence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long
+Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself
+started early for the bridge.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it
+is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view
+by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine
+trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the
+table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among
+the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct
+springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream
+below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep
+pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away,
+and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs,
+and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara.
+We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can
+south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the
+trees loftier.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to
+grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge
+and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross
+the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and
+branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the
+springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on
+a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water,
+and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view
+the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so
+romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's
+winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up
+by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on
+until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold
+wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering
+Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow
+pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge
+and beyond we went, following down the stream.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so
+grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania
+hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from
+twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand
+and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials,
+and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the
+pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back
+from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear
+conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no
+less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too,
+preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever
+since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post
+until the end.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where
+a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H.
+stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon
+a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of
+the distance that lay between me and home came before me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought,
+but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that
+is all powerful in every hour and need.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come
+from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native
+state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large
+double log house on the banks of the Pine&#8212;a very pretty spot they
+claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and
+said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go
+to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see
+some one from home, it would almost cure me!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh,
+Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us
+of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black
+Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the
+few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath
+School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a
+neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had
+been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering.
+And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their
+home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not
+allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and
+promised to spend Monday with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E.
+services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday</i>&#8212;Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the
+Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of
+all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are
+leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek,
+"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs
+are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these
+cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and
+"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a
+wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was
+explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in
+the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her
+trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word,
+"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only
+did our duty."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was
+so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can
+and will care for his children when they call upon him.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the
+spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health,
+but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the
+Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched
+our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where
+Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days,
+when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the
+other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves
+that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after
+asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little
+house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and
+perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the
+river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the
+Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the
+ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the
+men, left as soon as his duty was performed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of
+Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to
+Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented
+that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of
+which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife
+strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself&#8212;and at that time
+sick&#8212;signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to
+sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far
+until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding
+him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the
+shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our
+tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison
+house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by
+a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with
+crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their
+leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other,
+with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render
+him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a
+worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and
+would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our
+tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put
+his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the
+hill and entreated those who came to turn back.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon
+came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we
+were not again disturbed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha
+for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest
+but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the
+tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the
+long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant
+action.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for
+fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply
+of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the
+man, and morning came and found him still living.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that
+our children were safe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he
+very badly needed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men,
+friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of
+Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were
+his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with
+their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as
+guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him
+to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when
+they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to
+land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I
+was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on
+to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we
+had pursued.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles
+away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to
+depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated
+through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if
+Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and
+warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save
+ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take
+whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that
+our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we
+had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with
+us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come
+again, and urged me to go with her to her home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you <i>must not</i> leave me!" and
+then the thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her
+own life for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could
+not refrain from singing,
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"Through this changing world below,</div>
+<div>Lead me gently, gently, as I go;</div>
+<div>Trusting Thee, I cannot stray,</div>
+<div>I can never, never lose my way."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over
+the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came
+upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst
+you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper,
+"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against
+thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but
+greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though
+surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R.
+came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home
+she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own
+safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all
+dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the
+appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting
+and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a
+prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do
+hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for
+he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of
+his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all
+his bad deeds behind.)
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death
+blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we
+did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles
+further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five
+hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only
+remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we
+could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the
+frontier again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never
+experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for
+a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they
+would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their
+revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was
+done to assure me that I was safe at their hands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+&nbsp;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I
+repeat only truth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now to her collection of curiosities&#8212;but can only mention a few:
+One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two
+feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed
+the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they
+left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had
+been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of
+which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in
+circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the
+point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white,
+and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered
+from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors.
+As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to
+a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did
+not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But
+what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our
+guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me
+with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be
+persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet
+had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the
+beaver with only their four front teeth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine,
+cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of
+a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal
+of lumber.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he
+was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in
+April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular
+services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown,
+Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing
+between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the
+spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora
+Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak
+and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr.
+S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state,
+and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my
+newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but,
+best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the
+beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in
+June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H.
+Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and
+pitched a boarding tent, 14&#215;16, from which they fed the workmen on the
+railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was
+followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now
+there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one
+drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant.
+Population 175.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean
+the following:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you
+visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put
+up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22&#215;86, ten
+two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of
+both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved
+into their 20&#215;40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second
+story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's
+hardware, where also religious services are regularly held.
+Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree.
+The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is
+proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting
+in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a
+saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine,
+three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing
+pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty
+bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato
+raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured
+twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half
+short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of
+north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast
+disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of
+what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back
+from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for
+nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber
+culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded
+lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been
+taken up during the past year.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our
+county, and find as follows:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters
+to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters.
+Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it
+will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead,
+pre-emption, and timber culture laws.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen
+miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across
+the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country
+well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county
+is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average
+favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further
+developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be
+a good producing soil."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Water is good and easily obtained.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the
+creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around
+on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a
+distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long
+Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are
+of a clear, white sand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has
+been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be
+eastward bound.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back
+from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on
+the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new
+merchant just opening a store near the colony.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so
+pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the
+cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were
+drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he
+and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very
+unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a
+ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better
+life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole
+use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to
+lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift
+given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone
+would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat;
+so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs.
+Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219
+miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry
+brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to
+themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of
+the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two
+occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first
+train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter
+Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on
+the south.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up
+of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new,
+rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first,
+until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of
+Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is
+permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then
+the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.),
+which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general
+stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm
+implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and
+blacksmith shop, and a bank.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was
+visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on
+the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has
+here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of
+April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out
+from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and
+shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the
+story of the first chapter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I
+have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that
+the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very
+appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From The Stuart <cite>Ledger</cite> we quote: The Methodists have organized
+with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the
+building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev.
+Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson
+is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of
+Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24&#215;42, where over
+60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss
+Mamie Woods. An opera house 22&#215;60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's
+building, 18&#215;24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist,
+and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will
+close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received
+from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24:
+"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two
+months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come
+in their 'schooners.'
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three
+feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly
+enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion";
+of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as
+satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe
+its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape,
+and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets,
+closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth,
+and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your
+satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full
+length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want
+to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and
+was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can
+be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel;
+and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all
+I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists,
+and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing
+"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr.
+Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family.
+Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the
+following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place:
+"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two
+hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a
+population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine
+month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about
+$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson <cite>Graphic</cite>,
+several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention.
+Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about
+500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county
+during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa,
+though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles
+east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last
+March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday
+school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can
+be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by
+next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily
+obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded
+coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114
+miles, to attend Robinson's circus&#8212;but shows are a rarity here. The
+light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding
+country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling
+prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there
+settlers' homes with their culture of timber.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians,
+and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt
+county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches,
+Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It
+has three papers, The <cite>Frontier</cite>, Holt County
+<cite>Banner</cite>, both republican, and O'Neill <cite>Tribune</cite>,
+Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a mile from the river. Gen.
+O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the
+Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this
+point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was
+completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college
+located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81.
+U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83.
+County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a
+private enterprise by the citizens.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also
+given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless
+to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well
+represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will
+bring into a western town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much
+that has already been said of others, and the story of their added
+years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of
+to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright,
+new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost
+weaving high.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as
+we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road
+to Missouri Valley&#8212;its starting point&#8212;and for this we have Mr. J. R.
+Buchanan for authority.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of
+the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. company in
+1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New
+Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road.
+Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was
+worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population;
+is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the
+vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no
+superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of
+wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn.
+Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre,
+now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The S.C. &#38; P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached
+Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about
+100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad
+was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the
+direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black
+Hills.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it
+will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri
+river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the
+channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until
+the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000
+feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments
+built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the
+river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over
+$1,000,000.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must
+leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="III">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER III.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A
+description of the great Platte Valley.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a
+depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to
+putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master
+until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge
+storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to
+remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act
+of kindness shown me already.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket
+agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road,
+which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am
+glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed
+at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer.
+Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the
+telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could
+not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of
+colonizing on the frontier."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have
+been inquiring for you&#8212;but you must stop on your return and see the
+beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was
+not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were
+thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to
+see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was
+almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden.
+I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded
+westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren
+of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is
+lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied
+and much under cultivation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the
+railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its
+amber light, making it a beautiful sight.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from
+an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles
+wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and
+hindered all further sight-seeing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out
+of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares,
+"It is just good for him&#8212;no business to let the man get his hand on
+his money!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the
+conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat,
+assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the
+old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to
+protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the
+conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour
+would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot,
+but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me
+with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our
+letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity
+and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found
+Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo
+Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and
+trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning
+much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we
+found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a
+long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from
+the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters:
+Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black
+hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color
+and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet
+teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is
+taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but
+delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features
+and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet
+of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate
+as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and
+the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void
+the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed
+enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with
+his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has
+always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the
+"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the
+following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport,
+Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport.
+Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature
+from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at
+Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was
+occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on
+reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to
+California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers
+and Mormons.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their
+language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance
+and shoot with bow and arrow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that
+had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery
+man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a
+burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he
+died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for
+burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of
+armed men came to take the life that had just gone out.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing
+service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first
+blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl
+sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and
+thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and
+took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him
+from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely
+forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the
+employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors &#38; Waddell, his duty
+being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City
+to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the
+Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of
+the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great
+freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity
+of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train
+consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a
+railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of
+transportation beyond the states.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his
+first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a
+party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the
+cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing
+several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from
+the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the
+creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first
+shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young
+as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has
+since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage
+driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government,
+which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very
+best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa
+Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature
+in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his
+exhibitions on the stage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of,
+they just call it buffalo &#8212;&#8212; and as a consequence, there are buffalo
+gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss,
+grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when
+he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the
+Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the
+country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn
+of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost
+every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta
+and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln
+county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the
+sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte
+rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December,
+1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the
+town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had
+to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business
+houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land
+office of the western district embraces the government land of
+Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and
+Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the
+surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as
+stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is
+quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are
+fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but
+those which have been cultivated.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of
+the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and
+painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited
+to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door
+six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without
+ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens
+and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were
+discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room,
+thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how
+they would enjoy it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests,
+but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed
+the joke."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was
+abandoned four years ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to
+be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot,
+I left Monday evening for Plum Creek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and
+whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of
+adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about
+their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the
+lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the
+east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do
+better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken
+mother.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us
+on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester,
+N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave
+lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last
+summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I
+die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for
+the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more
+than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely
+child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been
+interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady
+from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how
+they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not
+be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never
+been without a snow-cap since she first saw them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to
+meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we
+preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the
+gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston
+House.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania
+about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum
+creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the
+little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming
+Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum
+Creek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to
+Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April,
+1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still
+holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station
+house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he
+built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present
+town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one
+mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile
+further west.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County <cite>Pioneer</cite>,
+of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the
+organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71,
+at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the
+entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told.
+But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous
+people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated
+March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the
+Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs
+affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte
+river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was
+celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of
+Columbus.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the
+churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their
+religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the
+Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of
+'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the
+county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev.
+Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in
+'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the
+Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian
+congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and
+far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska
+colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under
+charge of F. J. Pearson.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their
+first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the
+U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor <cite>Pioneer</cite>,
+whom I questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained
+have done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther
+west, until there is not many of us left; only about eight families
+that are now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by
+the grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was
+very discouraging."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove
+their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be
+driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the
+treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of
+light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after
+they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose
+mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal,
+seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west
+of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which
+two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still
+living."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel
+in a 16&#215;20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men,
+who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they
+could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is
+now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact
+some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him
+how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I
+can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?'
+No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married.
+He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take
+you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John
+Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a
+family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even
+this opportunity to get to my friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white
+with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of
+it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the
+bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph
+Butterbaugh&#8212;our old neighbor&#8212;coming to town, and who was greatly
+surprised, as they had not received my letter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and
+sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces,
+just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along
+the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to
+our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely
+improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others
+where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod
+houses).
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one
+herd, making it dangerous for travelers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house
+built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any
+lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are
+built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building
+of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then
+built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the
+summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a
+good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for
+sheep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box
+nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and
+receives the mail.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad
+land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for
+pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8&#215;10 frame, where
+the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for
+holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the
+stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon
+us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in
+my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I
+know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily
+sang:
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild,</div>
+<div>And feel that my mother now thinks of her child,</div>
+<div>As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door,</div>
+<div>Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined
+by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and
+together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I
+sing with more emphasis than&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>"Oh give me back my native hills,</div>
+<div>Rough, rugged though they be,</div>
+<div>No other land, no other clime</div>
+<div>Is half so dear to me."</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in
+the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and
+sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I
+don't think I have tried to sing it since."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I
+thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes
+down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until
+it echoed from bluff to bluff.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr.
+A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the
+morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr.
+A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with
+me on that morning ride.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Rough?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some
+things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt,
+as that horse <i>tried</i> to trot&#8212;perhaps it was my poke hat that was
+coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted
+Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go
+three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow:
+mind, we don't want to be going round many corners."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you;
+can you stand another trot?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and
+laugh at my attempt at riding.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's
+sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered&#8212;"Breakfast
+for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill
+into a "grand gallop."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my
+laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the
+door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the
+laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after
+all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one.
+Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the
+river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded
+away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie,
+bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old
+friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs
+and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the <i>swing</i> very
+much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a
+half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to
+come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To
+peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight
+to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of
+one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the
+Platte river three miles away&#8212;the river a mile in width, and the wide
+valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The
+U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the
+trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the
+east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes
+Cozad, Willow Island&#8212;almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first
+house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add
+the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five
+families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to
+be more than doubled by spring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after
+wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight
+until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills
+and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or
+pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a
+river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and
+are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call
+calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They
+seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed
+with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how &#230;sthetic we have
+grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect&#8212;would much
+rather look at the deer tracks.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and
+cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all
+taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain
+cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun
+with grape-vines.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring
+it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor
+fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower?
+But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown
+doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt
+bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I
+returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very
+deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not
+touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so
+lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it&#8212;well, he didn't catch the
+rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Sunday.</i> We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and
+Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with
+Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner
+time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen&#8212;only a few
+willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected
+from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a
+garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest
+flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms
+same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is
+not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the
+widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the
+north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of
+the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water
+is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the
+table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we
+heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?"
+I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a
+boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing
+if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that
+pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves
+of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width,
+and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of
+everything but grass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting
+of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that
+rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the
+North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the
+north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It
+has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and
+rapid&#8212;running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and
+changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its
+brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under
+ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican
+river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than
+the Platte.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of
+our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound
+train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have
+described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our
+colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought
+large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the
+Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give
+depth of soil and its production, but will add the following:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels
+wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30;
+and barley about 40 bushels per acre.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of
+December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was
+108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below,
+which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as
+high as 36 above since.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. &#38;
+M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the
+same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county.
+First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in
+'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list
+shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north
+side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160
+miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in
+'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that
+time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and
+bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a
+canal to utilize the waters of the Platte.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that
+hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar,
+maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont,
+named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842
+and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed
+but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and
+silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river
+and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his
+mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large
+and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated
+at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but
+now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches.
+It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. &#38; P.R.R. I must
+add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any
+sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for
+some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near
+the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are
+entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along
+the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance
+as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha
+about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had
+breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt
+Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R.
+land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha
+Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was
+made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been
+ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska
+shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the
+present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a
+homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was
+founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied
+across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge
+completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the
+first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten
+dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha,
+and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected
+for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton,
+Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa
+shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the
+Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to
+make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren
+plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet
+above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water
+tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis.
+It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha
+now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's
+principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and
+as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln,
+about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master,
+and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed
+to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington
+House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my
+friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman
+to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and
+that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many hom&#339;opathic
+physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners
+live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania.
+But a better thought came&#8212;that of the Baptist minister, as they
+attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and
+through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a
+long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your
+friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us
+to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his
+kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin
+Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather
+long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met.
+"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if
+you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile
+walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City
+Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I
+have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find
+the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood
+waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln
+in my walking up and down&#8212;at least all I cared to. But the welcome
+"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the
+kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its
+unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I
+was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own
+garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling
+stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing
+but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia
+Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of
+finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie,
+you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in
+Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing
+this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska.
+Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty
+miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction,
+in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which
+connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was
+the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is
+4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J.
+W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company
+yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where
+some government land is yet to be had.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln,
+Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April
+24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have
+gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in
+unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty
+acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan,
+in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying
+their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land
+within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all
+government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest
+fit only for grazing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on
+Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with
+much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue."
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="IV">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER IV.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Over the B. &#38; M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return
+via Hastings.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;A description of the Republican and
+Blue Valleys.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;The Saratoga of Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making
+point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for
+"Danger"&#8212;danger of it biting me or getting away&#8212;my prairie dog, which
+had found a home in a barrel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One evening Cousin Andy said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they
+make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that
+reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering
+the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in
+the side told the story.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price
+for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a
+Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor
+table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found
+him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know
+just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with
+heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but
+by morning the ground would be in good working order.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for
+several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county
+field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving
+their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now
+earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was
+entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so
+completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob
+Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built
+railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the
+way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in
+the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres,
+and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers
+until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads,
+settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has
+an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent
+of the B. &#38; M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and
+while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the
+third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central
+Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After a few moments conversation, he asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Indiana county."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is
+dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me
+all kindness and interest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of
+his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same
+kindness and attention that every one does at his hands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern
+Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that
+truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then
+seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends
+and more of the state.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face
+was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me
+she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not
+expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience:
+I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three
+months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word
+of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my
+young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously
+ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her
+off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that
+she might find her brother better.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my
+eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect
+snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression
+from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but
+that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention
+by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold
+and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little
+ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just
+as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look
+as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first
+foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a
+settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely
+together as possible.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I
+had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, sir."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"To Mr. Fulton's?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, yes. You know my friends then?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew
+where you were going."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but
+then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are
+different people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed
+at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was
+the one she had expected."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You know where they live then?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you
+to the house."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to
+his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when
+I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous
+week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my
+Uncle's door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around
+me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to
+go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought
+you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us
+yesterday."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the
+depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just
+when I am given up for good."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his
+motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over,
+Aunt said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, not a word."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about
+now."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then
+I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps
+already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of
+what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God
+in His great loving kindness is sparing us!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle
+John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same
+village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the
+year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the
+saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and
+baby Ruth, with malaria fever.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs&#8212;a
+town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the
+banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great
+volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber&#8212;honey locust, elm,
+box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees
+and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches
+in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska,
+and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to
+us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just
+as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among
+the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers
+of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in
+this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J.
+H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first
+surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were
+Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek
+is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among
+us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had
+been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the
+first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the
+Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only
+three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers.
+Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of
+flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them
+quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a
+sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed
+to a post for everybody to use.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two
+months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell
+everybody else to come. And come they did&#8212;walking, riding in ox
+wagons, and any way at all&#8212;until in all there was 150 of us. The
+ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress
+in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the
+dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn
+dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn.
+The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We
+sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers
+with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some
+war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight.
+Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind.
+So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all
+summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow
+bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and&#8212;well, that corn
+money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500
+bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as
+this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160
+acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for
+$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together
+in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us
+prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle
+to the Otoe Indians on the reservation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor
+pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the
+field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with
+their ponies.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from
+Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week
+from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars
+a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody
+went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission
+Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday
+morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and
+surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life
+we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted
+me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't
+see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out
+to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how
+much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on
+the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody
+calls me 'Pap Tyler.'"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the
+Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom
+of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were
+about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old
+ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not
+that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a
+country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the
+people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated
+man. I marked him&#8212;fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the
+state. The programme of the day was as follows:
+</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li><span class="sc">Song</span>&#8212;<i>The Red, White, and Blue</i>.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Declaration of Independence</span>&#8212;Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of twelve years.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Song</span>&#8212;<i>Night Before the Battle</i>.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>&#8212;<i>Our Schools</i>. Responded to by J. C. Burch.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>&#8212;<i>Our Railroads</i>. Rev. J. M. Pryse.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Music</span>&#8212;By the band.
+</li>
+<li><span class="sc">Toast</span>&#8212;<i>Our Neighbors</i>. Rev. E. H. Burrington.
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and
+with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their
+dinners.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat
+my dinner under the flag with a stain&#8212;a rebel flag of eleven stars and
+three stripes&#8212;a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom
+tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the
+celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+WYMORE
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost
+an undisturbed prairie until the B. &#38; M.R.R. came this way in the
+spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the
+ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640
+acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here
+sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little
+shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built
+homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you
+what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat
+Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall,
+Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of
+their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising
+western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on
+Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The
+heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a
+feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool
+and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon
+almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush,
+or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will
+shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is
+a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but
+one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and
+south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two
+miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it
+with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue
+on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six
+miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another
+creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800,
+on the B. &#38; M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and
+west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the
+agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at
+the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency."
+It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the
+30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a
+"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I
+felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so
+desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting
+posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the
+head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and
+hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little
+ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy
+hunting-ground."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other
+tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new
+home in the Indian Territory.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in
+places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see
+Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun
+was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska
+breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until
+the stars were shining.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw
+working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached
+to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and
+the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans;
+minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking
+these days when it says 100&#176; in the shade, cool, and if you can't take
+them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not
+do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled
+over and broke the bulb.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came
+in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a
+cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or
+two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and
+shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner
+of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie
+and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 <span class="smc">P.M.</span>
+train, July 5th.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all
+crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such
+a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these
+dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as
+though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and
+friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and
+nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and
+now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy
+meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of
+the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along:
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ODELL,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet
+well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent
+the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the
+Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins
+hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's
+planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with
+bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark
+muddy water that covers the bottom.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+DILLER,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing
+platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and
+grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is
+running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+INDIAN CREEK.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now
+just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill
+killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they
+were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for
+thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly
+defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his
+hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill
+from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer
+used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians,
+and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The
+stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place,
+and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ENDICOTT,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the
+centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing
+through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear
+door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+REYNOLDS,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good
+homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so
+good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the
+hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in
+bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is
+running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why
+Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the
+left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I
+do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence.
+Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor
+looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of
+cattle grazing.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+HUBBELL.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power;
+only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall
+wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county,
+which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of
+Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have
+since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five,
+wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in
+this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in
+hand, and was referred to &#8212;&#8212; &#8212;&#8212; for information, who asked&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Are you writing for the <cite>Inter Ocean</cite>?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a
+lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their
+publication."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls
+county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old
+schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking
+since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me
+to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard
+some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand,
+gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just
+beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that
+points its spire heavenward through his labors.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all
+the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the
+friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three
+little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the
+beauties of the "Garden of the West."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we
+cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling,
+and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land,
+with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The
+prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our
+portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower.
+While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a
+faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier.
+They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves
+sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to
+think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these
+great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a
+weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is
+almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make
+one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of
+black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with
+Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some
+years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk
+house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a
+wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs
+when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in
+any direction.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky
+waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and
+go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay
+with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one
+who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have
+you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I
+was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I
+<i>must</i> go, and sunset saw me off.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge
+I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough&#8212;sandy bed and banks,
+trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there
+only in wet weather.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles
+north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for
+several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean
+passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks
+of the Republican.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will
+know what they are.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+SUPERIOR
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The
+Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not
+catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I
+thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not
+understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much
+emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on the
+beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains he
+has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I <i>just love</i>
+to go fossiling! Don't you <i>love</i> to go fossiling, Miss?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know
+it is just too <i>lovely</i> for <i>anything</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern
+people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not
+tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers,
+and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I
+went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next
+morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine
+and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on
+all of the three railroads.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have
+always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive,
+and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his
+engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great
+throbbing heart of the Centennial&#8212;the Corliss engine, excited my
+admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the
+Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore
+with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and
+all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned
+to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at
+Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a
+ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long
+wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the
+fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the
+window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that
+amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a
+minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my
+impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was
+there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I
+appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Fourteen miles," was the reply.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the
+engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a
+bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and
+let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the
+wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place.
+When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they
+had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen
+minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as
+he did so, asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, did they go pretty fast?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't know, did they?" I replied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at
+McCook.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the
+seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the
+railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the
+little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a
+population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks
+of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of
+the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up
+with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place
+I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford,
+Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first
+house was built in June, '82.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of
+the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is
+seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the
+appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame
+house, build one that will look well at a distance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried
+from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and
+located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at
+a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook
+<cite>Tribune</cite>, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then
+in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near
+which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. &#38; M.R.R. was completed
+through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained
+from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as
+has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained,
+and brick is cheaper than in the east.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From a copy of the Daily <cite>Tribune</cite>, I read a long list of
+business firms and professional cards, and finished with, "<i>no
+saloons</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics
+worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given
+the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called
+upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from
+home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the
+east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the
+east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook.
+I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the
+Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She
+told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the
+ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found
+in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few
+days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can
+and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an
+engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without
+seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this
+road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness
+that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to
+point out all that was of interest, along the way."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops,
+with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken
+claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought
+80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the
+homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough
+to go into stock-raising.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western
+part of Hitchcock county.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight
+counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The
+40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the
+Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is
+easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well
+sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south.
+These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood,
+and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly
+populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone,
+the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty
+of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and
+will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado,
+are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand,
+and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side
+and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by
+the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond
+lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does
+not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars
+in all shapes and little islands of green&#8212;there it winds to the south
+and is lost to sight&#8212;herds of cattle&#8212;corn field&#8212;river again with
+willow fringed bank&#8212;cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand,
+or they would not be there long&#8212;river gone again&#8212;tall willow
+grove&#8212;wire fencing&#8212;creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width.
+Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles
+long, and cattle grazing in it&#8212;all fenced in until we reach
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+INDIANOLA,
+</p>
+
+<p>
+one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was
+surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was
+slow until the advent of the B. &#38; M., and now it numbers over 400
+inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses'
+from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and
+school house&#8212;great herd of cattle&#8212;wilderness of sunflowers turning
+their bright faces to the sun&#8212;now nothing but grass&#8212;corral made of
+logs&#8212;corn and potatoes&#8212;out of the old sod into the nice new
+frame&#8212;river beautifully wooded&#8212;valley about four miles wide from
+bluff to bluff&#8212;dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at
+home&#8212;board fence.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+CAMBRIDGE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring
+mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose
+shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple
+shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo
+wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ARAPAHOE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and
+bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on
+their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern
+point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty
+miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that
+neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are
+two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was
+platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in
+sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them!
+didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in
+very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream
+no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its
+banks. River close; trees&#8212;there, it and the trees are both gone south.
+Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+OXFORD.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north;
+town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a
+Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for
+mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and
+cattle, cattle&#8212;What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out
+west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan
+county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small
+towns, but will not be so long.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here we are at
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ORLEANS.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the
+north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before
+me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her
+company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream
+called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which
+the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the
+town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and
+for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their
+right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles
+east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400
+of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county
+seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its
+interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land.
+Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land;
+large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old
+sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+ALMA.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the
+table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the
+county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near
+Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the
+interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her
+fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only
+passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove
+the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other
+talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+REPUBLICAN CITY.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400.
+Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would
+be more plenty.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+NAPONEE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in
+sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">Bloomington</span>&#8212;the "Highland City"&#8212;the county seat of Franklin
+county, and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful
+valley, nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public
+buildings, and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian
+churches, a large Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills,
+a large creamery, and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians
+are excellent judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch
+of country, although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The
+Pawnees were the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I
+do not wonder that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown
+into a grand possession for their white brothers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half
+and use a dash for the rest of the words cor&#8212;, pota&#8212;, bush&#8212;, tre&#8212;,
+riv&#8212;. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that
+wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a
+good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it
+came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre&#8212; or bus&#8212;;
+well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive
+roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the
+river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have
+ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for
+awhile, and just then you haven't.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at
+<span class="sc">Franklin</span>, a real good solid town. First house built July,
+1879. I never can guess how many people live in a town by looking at it
+from a car window. How do I know how many there are at work in the
+creamery, flouring mill, and woolen factory? And how many pupils are
+studying in the Franklin Academy, a fine two-story building erected by
+the Republican Valley Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500?
+First term opened Dec. 6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is
+$12,000, and they propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and
+seven students have been enrolled during the present term. And how many
+little boys and girls in the common school building? or how many are in
+their nicely painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and
+dug-outs in the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of
+the ground? It takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds
+of houses to make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye,
+oats, millet, broom corn, and all <i>sich</i>&#8212;good all the way along
+this valley.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+RIVERTON.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in
+ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. &#38; M.
+Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to
+$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great
+fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now;
+there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of
+the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the
+Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it
+brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the
+bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes"
+and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One
+minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as
+though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a
+direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile.
+Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has
+stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed!
+Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles
+away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+RED CLOUD!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud,
+I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams
+were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I
+stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad;
+first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that
+hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my
+foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new
+moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the
+Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking
+up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a
+rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last
+came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes
+into a silent prayer:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage,
+enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me
+into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant
+lady, and soon I was listening to the following story:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers,
+and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which
+much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other
+settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several
+settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently
+visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for
+taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people
+stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of
+logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first
+winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in
+the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this
+spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but
+was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on
+the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and
+as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also
+plenty of elk, antelope, and deer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in
+my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes
+polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the
+summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer
+county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72,
+and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told
+of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I
+could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he
+is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo
+meat hung to the ceiling, and added:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I spent many a happy day there."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving
+well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a
+dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden
+even by the most humble abode.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same
+as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and
+have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's
+children.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as
+Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness,
+for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in
+the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days
+and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery&#8212;her native
+state.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing
+the surrounding beauties of their home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years
+ago&#8212;fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some
+think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while
+Mrs. G. says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if
+I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in
+the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and
+phaeton to take me to the depot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming
+and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large
+photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more
+of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14&#215;16
+hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good
+home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud,
+which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for
+their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over
+sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100
+miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their
+groceries.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from
+centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which
+Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had
+made that he paid for in years of service to his country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the B. &#38; M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450
+inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the
+B. &#38; M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster
+county, and surrounded by a rich country&#8212;need I add more?
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+AMBOY.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with
+bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+COWLES.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to
+be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I
+feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling
+to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another
+how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic
+thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will
+cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he
+wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more
+than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes
+and groves of trees.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+BLUE HILL.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that
+blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy
+life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers
+with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by
+only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and
+smiles upon me even here.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>Bloom, little flower, all the way along,</div>
+<div>Sing to us travelers your own quiet song,</div>
+<div>Speak to us softly, gently, and low,</div>
+<div>Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know?</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it
+so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of
+trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of
+the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+AYR
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Was but a small town, so we go on to <span class="sc">Hastings</span>, a town of over
+5,000 inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six
+miles west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The
+B. &#38; M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it
+was not a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St.
+Joe &#38; Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point
+in the following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W.
+Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors
+of the St. Jo. &#38; D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same
+year, the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now,
+the salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the
+state for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is
+nicely built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from
+fires. I notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep
+here. The surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking
+good.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are
+all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all.
+I notice the churches are well attended.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and,
+as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better
+my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken
+stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that
+condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I
+cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good
+young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was
+intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any
+one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such
+a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as
+this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he
+passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all
+for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most
+insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is
+Sunday.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+CRETE.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue
+river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant,
+shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy
+retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre
+of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds
+of the N.S.S.A.A.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+LINCOLN.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to
+watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when
+I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking
+through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind
+upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I
+didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he
+had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am
+only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him
+I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for
+me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my
+friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I
+thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had
+a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on.
+After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one
+of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them
+another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as
+they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Monday.</i> Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without
+it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your
+baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about
+it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for
+this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had."
+"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would
+replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and
+button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will
+never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never
+replace. No, I <i>must</i> not lose it!" And then I stole away and went
+to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that
+help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and
+as I prayed this lesson came to me&#8212;How alarmed I am over the loss of a
+little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when
+so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and
+each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read
+and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things.
+And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good,
+nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would
+just take a good cry over it, and&#8212;but won't I hug my dusty satchels if
+I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I
+supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for
+me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie
+took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the
+nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so
+slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But
+I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a
+minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the
+depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble,
+but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the
+faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I
+turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage,
+little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my
+fan. "Oh dear, I am <i>so</i> glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my
+satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to
+give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting
+attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch
+my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to
+do better.&#8212;I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a
+thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the
+Republican valley, and then about my baggage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old
+lady, and must go and see to it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both
+gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Nothing; I did not know you had found it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The conductor carried it away."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where did he go to?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't know, Miss."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had
+followed me. "What's gone?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, my baggage; it's gone again."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in
+here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov.
+Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all
+carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad,
+and a good lesson learned.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at
+Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July
+20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this
+table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under
+the B. &#38; M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are
+as follows:
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Divisions and mileage">
+<tr>
+<td>Pacific Junction to Kearney</td>
+<td class="right">196</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Omaha line</td>
+<td class="right">17</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nebraska City to Central City</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nebraska City to Beatrice</td>
+<td class="right">92</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Atchison to Columbus</td>
+<td class="right">221</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Crete to Red Cloud</td>
+<td class="right">150</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Table Rock to Wymore</td>
+<td class="right">38</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hastings to Culbertson</td>
+<td class="right">171</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Denver Extension</td>
+<td class="right">244</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford</td>
+<td class="right">77</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Chester to Hebron</td>
+<td class="right">12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>DeWitt to West Line</td>
+<td class="right">25</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Odell to Washington, Kan.</td>
+<td class="right">26</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nemaha to Salem</td>
+<td class="right">18</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the
+C.B. &#38; Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous
+"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between
+Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management,
+tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are
+entirely avoided.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at
+the head of the B. &#38; M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent,
+while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. &#38; M.R.R.
+Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct
+all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His
+thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having
+spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for
+this office.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+MILFORD.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue"
+river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of
+thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and
+sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr.
+Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I
+was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs.
+Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who
+located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in
+'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by
+the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town
+that afterward grew up about him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made
+very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land
+of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through
+the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers
+and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the
+common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due
+west of the capital, on the B. &#38; M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr.
+Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is
+now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies.
+Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes
+and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a
+log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A
+saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at
+hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his
+flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none
+other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of
+the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs.
+Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from
+her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were
+competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and
+I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a
+broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away
+captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was
+very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies
+high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then
+winding down canyon Seata, <i>little</i> canyon, we crossed the River
+to the Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm,
+hickory, and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines&#8212;one
+we measured being sixteen inches in circumference&#8212;while a cottonwood
+measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor
+where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the
+Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its
+shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But
+pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling
+Springs."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring
+flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay
+into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes,
+but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened
+rock.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine
+for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the
+running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house
+in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in
+'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and
+gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley
+<cite>Record</cite>." Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the
+"<cite>Congregational News</cite>" in '78.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The "Milford <cite>Ozone</cite>" is the leading organ of the day, so named
+for the health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as
+postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via
+Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J.
+H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was
+established.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a
+large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of
+300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross
+the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a
+view of the new town of <span class="sc">East Milford</span> laid out on an eighty
+acre plot that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It
+is a private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly
+favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of
+the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside
+home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot
+and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet
+found in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="V">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER V.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="ctrsmallchpt">
+NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived
+from the Indian <i>ne</i> (water) and <i>bras</i> (shallow), and means
+shallow water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to
+208 from north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that
+lie between parallels 40&#176; and 43&#176; north latitude, and 18&#176; and 27&#176; west
+longitude.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the
+original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only
+herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854,
+"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made
+it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for
+its motto "<i>Equality before the Law</i>."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The governors of Nebraska territory were:
+</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Francis Burt, 1854.</li>
+<li>T. B. Cuming, 1854-5.</li>
+<li>Mark W. Izard, 1855-8.</li>
+<li>W. A. Richardson, 1858.</li>
+<li>J. S. Morton, 1858-9.</li>
+<li>Samuel W. Black, 1859-61.</li>
+<li>Alvin Saunders, 1861-6.</li>
+<li>David Butler, 1866-7.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Of the state&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>David Butler, 1867-71.</li>
+<li>William H. James, 1871-3.</li>
+<li>Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5.</li>
+<li>Silas Garber, 1875-9.</li>
+<li>Albinus Nance, 1879-83.</li>
+<li>James W. Dawes, 1883.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>
+Allow me to quote from the <cite>Centennial Gazetteer of United
+States</cite>:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">Surface.</span>&#8212;Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends
+along the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down
+toward the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating.
+There are no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed
+mountains. The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous
+loam, which is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in
+deeply eroded valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest
+fertility, which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar,
+ash, and other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie.
+Late surveys establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom
+lands is from 13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">The climate</span> of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of
+other states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The
+mean annual temperature varies from 47&#176; in the northern sections to 57&#176;
+in the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part
+of the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the
+westerly winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress
+the thermometer to 20&#176; and sometimes 30&#176; below zero; while in the
+summer a temperature of 100&#176; and over is not unusual. In the southern
+tier of counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76&#188;&#176;, and of
+winter, 30&#189;&#176;. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30
+inches) falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall
+steadily decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the
+western counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the
+state.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">Population.</span>&#8212;Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and
+in 1870, 122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States,
+including 18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population
+numbered 30,748.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"<span class="sc">Education.</span>&#8212;Nebraska has more organized schools, more school
+houses, and those of a superior character; more money invested in
+buildings, books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the
+same age. The land endowed for the public schools embraces
+one-eighteenth of the entire area of the state&#8212;2,623,080 acres." The
+school lands are sold at not less than seven dollars per acre, which
+will yield a fund of not less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from
+six to ten per cent interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre.
+The principal is invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished
+while the interest and income alone is used.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly
+supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable
+and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in
+Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the
+Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength.
+The Catholic church is fully represented.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest
+percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second.
+Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write;
+Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write.
+Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United
+States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of
+the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at
+the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its
+salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the
+air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low
+temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong,
+cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but
+17&#176;, and of the summer 70&#176;.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in
+general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern
+people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not
+accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year&#8212;since
+which time there has been rapid developments&#8212;will speak volumes for
+the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an
+increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828
+in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933
+to 452,542, nearly four-fold.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its
+capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a
+population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square
+mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a
+population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would
+have 17,480,000 people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874
+to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per
+year. In 1883 there was raised in the state:
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Grain product">
+<tr>
+<td>Wheat</td>
+<td class="right">27,481,300.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Corn</td>
+<td class="right">101,276,000.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Oats</td>
+<td class="right">21,630,000.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>
+Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has
+prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up
+to Nov. 13, 1883:
+</p>
+
+<table summary="Crop reports">
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Corn, yield per acre</td>
+<td class="right">41 bushels.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">85 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Potatoes, Irish</td>
+<td class="right">147 bushels.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">109 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Potatoes, sweet</td>
+<td class="right">114 bushels.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">111 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Hay, average tame and wild</td>
+<td class="right">2 tons per a.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>&nbsp;</td>
+<td>Quality</td>
+<td class="right">107 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Sorghum, yield per acre</td>
+<td class="right">119 gallons.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Grapes, yield and quality</td>
+<td class="right">88 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Apples, yield and quality</td>
+<td class="right">97 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Pears, yield and quality</td>
+<td class="right">52 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Condition of orchards</td>
+<td class="right">100 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">Spring wheat threshed at date</td>
+<td class="right">82 per cent.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>
+Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for
+market, Dec. 1.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a
+total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised
+annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and
+250,000 sheep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring
+the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000
+inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into
+the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor
+dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done
+by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven
+intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the
+least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the
+state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a
+population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own
+at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or
+proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall
+come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her
+husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall
+remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage,
+and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for
+his debts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt
+contracted by the wife before marriage."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail
+transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two
+years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was
+about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations
+were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft.
+Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.;
+Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers
+left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month;
+carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two
+years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from
+St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in
+sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now
+Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising
+people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that
+enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new
+country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after
+while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of
+ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west
+by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a
+strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to
+learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept
+and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear
+great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the
+forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their
+children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has
+furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good
+idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day,
+and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general
+hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska
+could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="ctrtoppad">
+LINCOLN.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at
+Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of
+State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and
+locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present
+<i>capital</i> site was chosen&#8212;then a wild waste of grasses, where a
+few scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that
+once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster
+post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the
+Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide"
+between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and
+broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public
+buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom
+Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state,
+a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and
+founded a paper town and called it Lancaster.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was
+as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the
+state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all
+the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the
+commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the
+summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer,
+which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few
+and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale
+of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he
+received his wages&#8212;$300&#8212;he remarked that he would not give his pay
+for the whole town site.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100
+houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67,
+but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in
+January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was
+realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State
+University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all
+other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The
+post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national
+government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were
+reserved for the B. &#38; M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot
+is a large brick building 183&#215;53 and three stories high, with lunch
+room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room,
+and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices
+on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily
+carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway
+accommodations.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were
+given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature,
+which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was
+organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman
+Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69;
+Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A
+number have since been added.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="sc">The State Journal Co.</span> On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day
+following the announcement that Lancaster was <i>the place</i> for the
+capital site there appeared in the <cite>Nebraska City Press</cite> a
+prospectus for the publication of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be
+called the <cite>Nebraska Commonwealth</cite>, C. H. Gere, Editor. But
+not until the latter part of Nov. did it have an established office in
+the new city. In the spring of '69 the <cite>Commonwealth</cite> was
+changed to the Nebraska <cite>State Journal</cite>. As a daily it was
+first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B. &#38; M.R.R. ran its
+first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage coaches that had
+been the only means of transportation to the capital. In '82 the State
+Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new building on the
+corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and brick, four
+stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The officers are C.
+H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R. Clark, Sec., and H.
+D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125 hands. Beside the
+<cite>Journal</cite> are the <cite>Democrat</cite> and
+<cite>News</cite>, daily; the <cite>Nebraska Farmer</cite>,
+semi-monthly; the <cite>Capital</cite>, weekly; the <cite>Hesperian
+Student</cite>, monthly, published by the students of the University,
+and the <cite>Staats Anzeiger</cite>, a German paper, issued weekly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G
+street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and
+spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But
+Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in
+that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and
+about Lincoln.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of
+convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who
+had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act.
+Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready
+to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good
+behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step
+beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all
+the departments&#8212;the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where
+brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot
+mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and
+stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at
+the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of
+stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a
+prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4&#215;7 feet, and furnished
+with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to
+write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what
+they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read
+before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom
+are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their
+cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals
+together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives
+and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly
+to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the
+wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation.
+Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each
+other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not
+even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow
+neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until
+seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two
+or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a
+privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general
+hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at
+nine <span class="smc">A.M.</span>, they are marched in close file to the chapel,
+where Rev. Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and
+New York, gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and
+Him Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian
+doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within
+prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of
+their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's
+daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are
+readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the
+dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his
+services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars,
+the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron
+door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs,
+and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on
+the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left.
+They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to
+see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and
+there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked
+into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I
+have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to
+me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will
+always be watching to see what good men and women you make; great
+philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good
+ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice,
+honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President
+sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your
+name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll
+be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their
+innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised
+to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture
+before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy&#8212;a God not only
+to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are
+here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin
+with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched
+drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be
+men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God
+will punish the <i>cause</i>, while man calls the effect to account.
+For my part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest
+drunkard from the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest
+liquor dealer in the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he
+deals out, and that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of
+ruined souls, souls for which he will have to answer for before the
+Great Judge who never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt
+by a jury.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt
+we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday.</i> About two <span class="smc">P.M.</span> the sky was suddenly darkened
+with angry looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they
+grew more threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not
+anxious to witness a cyclone, but if one <i>must</i> come, I wanted to
+watch its coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the
+clouds rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and
+we drove out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck
+of a brick building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy
+fall of hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some
+places. This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state.
+[ERRATA. Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited"
+read "Nebraska is <i>not</i> visited." Third line from bottom leave out
+the word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as
+some suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep
+over some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind
+that I was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather
+than does Pennsylvania.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very
+oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Saturday</i> we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and
+drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has
+many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine
+view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over
+housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many
+beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120
+feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks,
+five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk
+proper&#8212;built of stone, brick, or plank&#8212;and the remaining eleven feet
+are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The streets running north and south are numbered from first to
+twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Saturday evening&#8212;a beautiful moonlight night&#8212;just such a night as
+makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has
+been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the
+mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know
+if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be
+aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because
+I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a
+neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over <i>after dark</i>. All saddled,
+Fanny waits at the door, and I must go.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back&#8212;I'll
+telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am
+told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have
+only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for&#8212;but a
+happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start.
+</p>
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div>One by one her feet are lifted,</div>
+<div class="i1">One by one she sets them down;</div>
+<div>Step by step we leave the gatepost,</div>
+<div class="i1">And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle,</div></div></div></div>
+
+<p>
+when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you
+cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My
+thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly.
+But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night,
+and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak&#8212;<i>if I ever reached
+the foot of the mountain</i>,&#8212;that I did not notice that Fanny had
+crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post.
+Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but
+she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg
+him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were
+created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow,
+cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie
+Keefer.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What does it eat?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but
+Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was
+asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln.
+Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed
+strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in
+among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and
+cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship.
+They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief,
+requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist
+church, to come and baptise their infants.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind,
+but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so
+earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I
+wore an expression of pity instead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and
+seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of
+their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son
+of Africa arose and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for
+about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And
+Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat
+rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called
+sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit
+by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake
+bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of
+time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my
+time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in
+prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands,
+and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a
+continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the
+prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard.
+One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by
+bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too
+large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while
+she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing,
+if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only
+hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing
+in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it
+was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word
+long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way.
+It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description,
+and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing
+short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was
+very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with
+the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table
+and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride
+and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men
+stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put
+down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could
+not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down,
+and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a
+piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister
+closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander
+would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if
+de Lord am willin, I'll be here too."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with
+an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening
+found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to
+speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text
+am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua
+commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great
+wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by
+blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book
+of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de
+Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat
+moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine
+it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll
+give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de
+smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and
+not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky
+mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I
+heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful,
+and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is
+expended."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while
+we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be
+drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true
+representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four
+long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such
+utter ignorance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been
+"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye.
+</p>
+
+
+
+<h2>
+<a name="VI">&nbsp;</a>
+CHAPTER VI.
+</h2>
+
+<p class="smallhang">
+Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The
+Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.&#8201;&#8212;&#8201;The conclusion.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>
+Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont.
+Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last
+Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of
+what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the
+storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At
+Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a
+couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed
+to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and
+Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first
+person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before
+she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come
+to meet me, Mrs. Euber?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr.
+Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the
+previous week.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received
+your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a
+great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you
+didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him,
+promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found
+he had not eaten them all&#8212;which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called
+on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I
+learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook
+my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey
+home, and find your dear mother well!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing
+better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch
+acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we
+meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are
+stored away for future reference, in quiet hours.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the
+thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my
+indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over
+level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed
+over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed
+their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said
+good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at
+Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri
+river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car
+where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and
+watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all
+those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have
+returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of
+Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged
+gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross
+the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be
+careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the
+shore."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the
+boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall
+into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed
+with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom&#8212;but
+we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy
+shores of Iowa.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going&#8212;of my visit at
+Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family&#8212;dear old friends of my
+grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield,
+Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow
+me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+July 30, 5:30 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> "Will you tell me, please, when we cross
+the Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we
+crossed the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the
+window and shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the
+hills and valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I
+thought there was an air of home in the breezes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at
+Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the
+depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months
+ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I
+gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright
+expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves
+as bright as these I gather?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear
+old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return
+again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall
+the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and
+esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent
+people it holds within its arms.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in
+a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I
+have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months'
+stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot
+have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the
+little groggeries and make those who <i>will</i> have it, pay the
+highest price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a
+homestead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too
+dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and
+wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do
+they?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B.
+over the R. &#38; P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants
+of the car.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"At the &#8212;&#8212; (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve
+a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any
+good."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down
+to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where
+everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose
+those young dandies are "Oil Princes"&#8212;"Coal Oil Johnnies," you
+know&#8212;and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for
+their fun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels
+as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew
+my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take
+the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in
+waiting and only one carriage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Go to the &#8212;&#8212;, lady?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the
+ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge,
+past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open
+saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an
+eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm
+and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I
+guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an
+elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my
+imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that
+He had brought me safely so near home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Seventy-five cents."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please
+take fifty?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents
+on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not
+help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several
+little extras I had met with had taken about all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him
+at the breakfast table.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of
+rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size,
+but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to
+you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of
+snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that
+glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig
+and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I
+wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and
+how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere
+else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the
+great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the
+many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark."
+They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond
+description.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester &#38; Pittsburgh R.R. for
+DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then
+out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of
+trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard
+Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is
+dumped down in wild confusion here&#8212;mountains and valleys, hills and
+hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones,
+trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed
+with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters
+and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations,
+but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of
+derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills&#8212;but now we are 17
+miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is
+the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment
+to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302
+feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of
+silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever
+again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I
+feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the
+honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle,"
+never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and
+exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience
+the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks
+at either side, and the cars run very slow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen
+excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great
+valley&#8212;its noble trees untouched&#8212;and allow it to forever remain as
+one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful
+mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500
+feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond
+description, so are the mountains.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the
+plains and stood upon the mountain peaks."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but
+enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the
+plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His
+children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged
+mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the
+most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Arrived at DuBois 5 <span class="smc">P.M.</span> This road has only been in use since
+in June, and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to
+see the trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in
+hand, and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood
+Francis watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but
+when he recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on
+before to tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I
+reached the "wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister
+Maggie, and were not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy!
+and the new moon looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were
+glad, happy days, but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a
+few days. Norval to go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his
+daughter home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your
+wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking
+than when she went away," Maggie said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home,
+through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land,
+the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and
+we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat
+from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I
+thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a
+mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a
+shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and
+something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help
+comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little
+western town.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we
+go, until we cross Little Mahoning&#8212;bless its bright waters!&#8212;and once
+more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town&#8212;the snuggest, dearest
+little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I
+wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles
+farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays
+aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau,"
+and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the
+gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its
+rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip
+through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase
+Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and
+her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the
+meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't
+leave you soon again!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the
+house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we
+frightened Emma and Harry into a cry.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she
+strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the
+friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear
+mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries,
+and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how
+good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at
+my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see
+and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel"
+was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit
+Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May,
+shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed&#8212;but
+where is Will?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Out at the oats field?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see
+him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back
+field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go
+through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down
+goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As we trudge down the hill, I said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your
+farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a
+scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will
+endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they
+could go along I would like to try life in the West."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book
+out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when
+mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed
+look:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some
+huckleberries for supper."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put
+aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the
+huckleberries are gathered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Seated again&#8212;
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while
+Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while
+I make a corn cutter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand
+that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly
+turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then,
+"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn
+cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it
+be a time of peace."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the
+latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt
+Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly
+turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my
+sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on
+the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover
+puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr
+to kisses&#8212;I mean baby kisses?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came
+the apples&#8212;golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown.
+And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I
+finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The
+cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and
+although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the
+thermometer says 20&#176; below, yet all I have to do is to take up a
+cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the
+slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all
+over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and
+mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone
+Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though
+I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks.
+Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the
+"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day
+lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of
+faith and trust.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for
+the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left
+Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. &#38; P.R.R. The country along
+this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary
+winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet
+piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan
+Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave
+Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I
+will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We
+approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge,
+about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the
+whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The
+river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet
+deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225
+feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch
+only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing
+quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the
+bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south
+we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the
+train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again.
+Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and
+see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more
+favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly
+by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I
+am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of
+the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet
+of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our
+view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can
+do justice to Niagara Falls.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or
+leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil
+is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New
+York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected
+farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit
+river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only
+see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to
+the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not
+get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday
+morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five
+days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some
+of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the
+people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good
+old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of
+the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of
+vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering
+up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought,
+Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and
+earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln
+Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright
+day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the
+panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything
+about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to
+corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look
+for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that
+I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among
+the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked
+upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the
+artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday
+morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the
+Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over
+the C. &#38; N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go
+over the C.B. &#38; Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I
+left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road
+that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land
+in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the
+Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is
+night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view.
+Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it
+is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the
+Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln,
+arriving there at 12 <span class="smc">M.</span> March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's
+again just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and
+my welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home
+with them during my stay in Lincoln.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr.
+Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms
+satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year
+from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book
+began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of
+it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of
+hard labor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work,
+kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of
+discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the
+labor it involves."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work
+cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden
+in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all
+through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put
+it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at
+the last."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Did He forsake me," do you ask?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in
+Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their
+name down without hesitation.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What security do you want of me?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many
+prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands
+would be reached out to me."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so
+keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it
+to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his
+confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness
+such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<i>Friday, May 9th.</i> I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my
+dear aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father
+spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome
+me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was
+afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the
+water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said:
+"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just
+now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me
+this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of
+sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84
+with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up
+to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror
+of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the
+sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the
+leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other
+May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my
+May-day in the old familiar places.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford,
+and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction,
+friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I
+thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in <i>my</i> "Diary
+of a Minister's Wife," I bid you <span class="sc">Good-Bye</span>.
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<div class="image"><img width="600" height="417" src="images/map.jpg" alt="map">
+<p class="caption">
+FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R.
+AND CONNECTIONS,<br>TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<br>
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="ctr">
+Transcriber's Note:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Minor typographical errors have been corrected without note.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have been retained as
+printed.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton
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+Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: To and Through Nebraska
+
+Author: Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
+Release Date: January 17, 2014 [EBook #44688]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected
+without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have
+been retained as printed. Words printed in italics are noted with
+underscores: _italics_.
+
+
+
+
+TO AND THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+
+
+BY
+
+A Pennsylvania Girl.
+
+THIS LITTLE WORK, WHICH CLAIMS NO MERIT BUT TRUTH
+IS HUMBLY DEDICATED TO THE MANY DEAR FRIENDS,
+WHO BY THEIR KINDNESS MADE THE LONG
+JOURNEY AND WORK PLEASANT TO
+
+_The Author_,
+
+FRANCES I. SIMS FULTON.
+
+
+LINCOLN, NEB.
+JOURNAL COMPANY, STATE PRINTERS,
+1884.
+
+
+
+
+A WORD TO THE READER.
+
+
+If you wish to read of the going and settling of the Nebraska Mutual
+Aid Colony, of Bradford, Pa., in Northwestern Neb., their trials and
+triumphs, and of the Elkhorn, Niobrara, and Keya Paha rivers and
+valleys, read Chapter I.
+
+Of the country of the winding Elkhorn, Chapter II.
+
+Of the great Platte valley, Chapter III.
+
+Of the beautiful Big Blue and Republican, Chapter IV.
+
+Of Nebraska's history and resources in general, her climate, school and
+liquor laws, and Capital, Chapter V.
+
+If you wish a car-window view of the Big Kinzua Bridge (highest in the
+world), and Niagara Falls and Canada, Chapter VI.
+
+
+And now, a word of explanation, that you may clearly understand _just
+why_ this little book--if such it may be called, came to be written.
+We do not want it to be thought an emigration scheme, but only what a
+Pennsylvania girl heard, saw, and thought of Nebraska. And to make it
+more interesting we will give our experience with all the fun thrown
+in, for we really thought we had quite an enjoyable time and learned
+lessons that may be useful for others to know. And simply give
+everything just as they were, and the true color to all that we touch
+upon, simply stating facts as we gathered them here and there during a
+stay of almost three months of going up and down, around and across the
+state from Dakota to Kansas--306 miles on the S.C. & P.R.R., 291 on the
+U.P.R.R., and 289 on the B. & M.R.R., the three roads that traverse the
+state from east to west. It is truly an unbiased work, so do not chip
+and shave at what may seem incredible, but, as you read, remember you
+read ONLY TRUTH.
+
+My brother, C. T. Fulton, was the originator of the colony movement;
+and he with father, an elder brother, and myself were members. My
+parents, now past the hale vigor of life, consented to go, providing
+the location was not chosen too far north, and all the good plans and
+rules were fully carried out. Father made a tour of the state in 1882,
+and was much pleased with it, especially central Nebraska. I was
+anxious to "claim" with the rest that I might have a farm to give to my
+youngest brother, now too young to enter a claim for himself--claimants
+must be twenty-one years of age. When he was but twelve years old, I
+promised that for his abstaining from the use of tobacco and
+intoxicating drinks in every shape and form, until he was twenty-one
+years old, I would present him with a watch and chain. The time of the
+pledge had not yet expired, but he had faithfully kept his promise thus
+far, and I knew he would unto the end. He had said: "For a gold watch,
+sister, I will make it good for life;" but now insisted that he did not
+deserve anything for doing that which was only right he should do; yet
+I felt it would well repay me for a life pledge did I give him many
+times the price of a gold watch. What could be better than to put him
+in possession of 160 acres of rich farming land that, with industry,
+would yield him an independent living? With all this in view, I entered
+with a zeal into the spirit of the movement, and with my brothers was
+ready to go with the rest. As father had served in the late war, his
+was to be a soldier's claim, which brother Charles, invested with the
+power of attorney, could select and enter for him. But our well
+arranged plans were badly spoiled when the location was chosen so far
+north, and so far from railroads. My parents thought they could not go
+there, and we children felt we could not go without them, yet they
+wrote C. and I to go, see for ourselves, and if we thought best they
+would be with us. When the time of going came C. was unavoidably
+detained at home, but thought he would be able to join me in a couple
+of weeks, and as I had friends among the colonists on whom I could
+depend for care it was decided that I should go.
+
+When a little girl of eleven summers I aspired to the writing of a
+"yellow backed novel," after the pattern of Beadle's dime books, and as
+a matter of course planned my book from what I had read in other like
+fiction of the same color. But already tired of reading of perfection I
+never saw, or heard tell of except in story, my heroes and heroines
+were to be only common, every-day people, with common names and
+features. The plan, as near as I can remember, was as follows:
+
+A squatter's cabin hid away in a lonely forest in the wild west. The
+squatter is a sort of out-law, with two daughters, Mary and Jane, good,
+sensible girls, and each has a lover; not handsome, but brave and true,
+who with the help of the good dog "Danger," often rescues them from
+death by preying wolves, bears, panthers, and prowling Indians.
+
+The concluding chapter was to be, "The reclaiming of the father from
+his wicked ways. A double wedding, and together they all abandon the
+old home, and the old life, and float down a beautiful river to a
+better life in a new home."
+
+Armed with slate and pencil, and hid away in the summer-house, or
+locked in the library, I would write away until I came to a crack
+mid-way down the slate, and there I would always pause to read what I
+had written, and think what to say next. But I would soon be called to
+my neglected school books, and then would hastily rub out what I had
+written, lest others would learn of my secret project; yet the story
+would be re-written as soon as I could again steal away. But the crack
+in my slate was a bridge I never crossed with my book.
+
+Ah! what is the work that has not its bridges of difficulties to cross?
+and how often we stop there and turning back, rub out all we have done?
+
+"Rome was not built in a day," yet I, a child, thought to write a book
+in a day, when no one was looking. I have since learned that it takes
+lesson and lessons, read and re-read, and many too that are not learned
+from books, and then the book will be--only a little pamphlet after all.
+
+
+
+
+THROUGH NEBRASKA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Going and Settling of the Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony of Bradford,
+Pa., in Northern Nebraska--A Description of the Country in which
+they located, which embraces the Elkhorn, Niobrara and Keya Paha
+Valleys--Their First Summer's Work and Harvest.
+
+
+True loyalty, as well as true charity, begins at home. Then allow us to
+begin this with words of love of our own native land,--the state of all
+that proud Columbia holds within her fair arms the nearest and dearest
+to us; the land purchased from the dusky but rightful owners, then one
+vast forest, well filled with game, while the beautiful streams
+abounded with fish. But this rich hunting ground they gave up in a
+peaceful treaty with the noble Quaker, William Penn; in after years to
+become the "Keystone," and one of the richest states of all the Union.
+
+Inexhaustible mineral wealth is stored away among her broad mountain
+ranges, while her valleys yield riches to the farmer in fields of
+golden grain. Indeed, the wealth in grain, lumber, coal, iron, and oil
+that are gathered from her bosom cannot be told--affording her children
+the best of living; but they have grown, multiplied, and gathered in
+until the old home can no longer hold them all; and some must needs go
+out from her sheltering arms of law, order, and love, and seek new
+homes in the "far west," to live much the same life our forefathers
+lived in the land where William Penn said: "I will found a free colony
+for all mankind."
+
+Away in the northwestern part of the state, in McKean county, a
+pleasant country village was platted, a miniature Philadelphia, by
+Daniel Kingbury, in or about the year 1848. Lying between the east and
+west branches of the Tunagwant--or Big Cove--Creek, and hid away from
+the busy world by the rough, rugged hills that surround it, until in
+1874, when oil was found in flowing wells among the hills, and in the
+valleys, and by 1878 the quiet little village of 500 inhabitants was
+transformed into a perfect beehive of 18,000 busy people, buying and
+selling oil and oil lands, drilling wells that flowed with wealth,
+until the owners scarce knew what to do with their money; and,
+forgetting it is a long lane that has no turning, and a deep sea that
+has no bottom, lived as though there was no bottom to their wells, in
+all the luxury the country could afford. And even to the laboring class
+money came so easily that drillers and pumpers could scarce be told
+from a member of the Standard Oil Company.
+
+Bradford has been a home to many for only a few years. Yet years pass
+quickly by in that land of excitement: building snug, temporary homes,
+with every convenience crowded in, and enjoying the society of a free,
+social, intelligent people. Bradford is a place where all can be
+suited. The principal churches are well represented; the theaters and
+operas well sustained. The truly good go hand in hand; those who live
+for society and the world can find enough to engross their entire time
+and attention, while the wicked can find depth enough for the worst of
+living. We have often thought it no wonder that but few were allowed to
+carry away wealth from the oil country; for, to obtain the fortune
+sought, many live a life contrary to their hearts' teachings, and only
+for worldly gain and pleasure. Bradford is nicely situated in the
+valley "where the waters meet," and surrounded by a chain or net-work
+of hills, that are called spurs of the Alleghany mountains, which are
+yet well wooded by a variety of forest trees, that in autumn show
+innumerable shades and tinges. From among the trees many oil derricks
+rear their "crowned heads" seventy-five feet high, which, if not a
+feature of beauty, is quite an added interest and wealth to the rugged
+hills. From many of those oil wells a flow of gas is kept constantly
+burning, which livens the darkest night.
+
+Thus Bradford has been the center of one of the richest oil fields, and
+like former oil metropolis has produced wealth almost beyond reckoning.
+Many have come poor, and gone rich. But the majority have lived and
+spent their money even more lavishingly than it came--so often counting
+on and spending money that never reached their grasp. But as the tubing
+and drills began to touch the bottom of this great hidden sea of oil,
+when flowing wells had to be pumped, and dry holes were reported from
+territory that had once shown the best production, did they begin to
+reckon their living, and wonder where all their money had gone. Then
+new fields were tested, some flashing up with a brilliancy that lured
+many away, only to soon go out, not leaving bright coals for the
+deluded ones to hover over; and they again were compelled to seek new
+fields of labor and living, until now Bradford boasts of but 12,000
+inhabitants.
+
+Thus people are gathered and scattered by life in the oil country. And
+to show how fortunes in oil are made and lost, we quote the great
+excitement of Nov., 1882, when oil went up, up, and oil exchanges, not
+only at Bradford, but from New York to Cincinnati, were crowded with
+the rich and poor, old and young, strong men and weak women, investing
+their every dollar in the rapidly advancing oil.
+
+Many who had labored hard, and saved close, invested their _all_;
+dreaming with open eyes of a still advancing price, when they would
+sell and realize a fortune in a few hours.
+
+Many rose the morning of the 9th, congratulating themselves upon the
+wealth the day would bring.
+
+What a world of pleasure the anticipation brought. But as the day
+advanced, the "bears" began to bear down, and all the tossing of the
+"bulls of the ring" could not hoist the bears with the standard on top.
+So from $1.30 per barrel oil fell to $1.10. The bright pictures and
+happy dreams of the morning were all gone, and with them every penny,
+and often more than their own were swept.
+
+Men accustomed to oil-exchange life, said it was the hardest day they
+had ever known there. One remarked, that there were not only pale faces
+there, but faces that were _green_ with despair. This was only one
+day. Fortunes are made and lost daily, hourly. When the market is
+"dull," quietness reigns, and oil-men walk with a measured tread. But
+when it is "up" excitement is more than keeping pace with it.
+
+Tired of this fluctuating life of ups and downs, many determined to at
+last take Horace Greeley's advice and "go west and grow up with the
+country," and banded themselves together under the title of "The
+Nebraska Mutual Aid Colony." First called together by C. T. Fulton, of
+Bradford Pa., in January, 1883, to which about ten men answered. A
+colony was talked over, and another meeting appointed, which received
+so much encouragement by way of interest shown and number in
+attendance, that Pompelion hall was secured for further meetings. Week
+after week they met, every day adding new names to the list, until they
+numbered about fifty. Then came the electing of the officers for the
+year, and the arranging and adopting of the constitution and by-laws.
+Allow me to give you a summary of the colony laws. Every name signed
+must be accompanied by the paying of two dollars as an initiation fee;
+but soon an assessment was laid of five dollars each, the paying of
+which entitled one to a charter membership. This money was to defray
+expenses, and purchase 640 acres of land to be platted into streets and
+lots, reserving necessary grounds for churches, schools, and public
+buildings. Each charter member was entitled to two lots--a business and
+residence lot, and a pro rata share of, and interest in the residue of
+remaining lots. Every member taking or buying lands was to do so within
+a radius of ten miles of the town site. "The manufacture and sale of
+spirituous or malt liquors shall forever be prohibited as a beverage.
+Also the keeping of gambling houses."
+
+On the 13th of March, when the charter membership numbered
+seventy-three, a committee of three was sent to look up a location.
+
+The committee returned April 10th; and 125 members gathered to hear
+their report, and where they had located. When it was known it was in
+northern Nebraska, instead of in the Platte valley, as was the general
+wish, and only six miles from the Dakota line, in the new county of
+Brown, an almost unheard of locality, many were greatly disappointed,
+and felt they could not go so far north, and so near the Sioux Indian
+reservation, which lay across the line in southern Dakota. Indeed, the
+choosing of the location in this unthought-of part of the state, where
+nothing but government land is to be had, was a general upsetting of
+many well laid plans of the majority of the people. But at last, after
+many meetings, much talking, planning, and voting, transportation was
+arranged for over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern, Chicago and
+Northwestern, and Sioux City and Pacific R. Rs., and the 24th of April
+appointed for the starting of the first party of colonists.
+
+We wonder, will those of the colony who are scattered over the plains
+of Nebraska, tell, in talking over the "meeting times" when
+anticipation showed them their homes in the west, and hopes ran high
+for a settlement and town all their own, tell how they felt like eager
+pilgrims getting ready to launch their "Mayflower" to be tossed and
+landed on a wild waste of prairie, they knew not where?
+
+We need scarce attempt a description of the "getting ready," as only
+those who have left dear old homes, surrounded by every strong hold
+kindred, church, school, and our social nature can tie, can realize
+what it is to tear away from these endearments and follow stern duty,
+and live the life they knew the first years in their new home would
+bring them; and, too, people who had known the comforts and luxuries of
+the easy life, that only those who have lived in the oil country can
+know, living and enjoying the best their money could bring them, some
+of whom have followed the oil since its first advent in Venango county,
+chasing it in a sort of butterfly fashion, flitting from Venango to
+Crawford, Butler, Clarion, and McKean counties (all of Penna.); making
+and losing fortune after fortune, until, heart-sick and poorer than
+when they began, they resolve to spend their labor upon something more
+substantial, and where they will not be crowded out by Standard or
+monopoly.
+
+The good-bye parties were given, presents exchanged, packing done,
+homes broken up, luncheon prepared for a three days' journey, and many
+sleepless heads were pillowed late Monday night to wake early Tuesday
+morning to "hurry and get ready." 'Twas a cold, cheerless morning; but
+it mattered not; no one stopped to remark the weather; it was only the
+going that was thought or talked of by the departing ones and those
+left behind.
+
+And thus we gathered with many curious ones who came only to see the
+exodus, until the depot and all about was crowded. Some laughing and
+joking, trying to keep up brave hearts, while here and there were
+companies of dear friends almost lost in the sorrow of the "good-bye"
+hour. The departing ones, going perhaps to never more return, leaving
+those behind whom they could scarce hope to again see. The aged father
+and mother, sisters and brothers, while wives and children were left
+behind for a season. And oh! the multitude of dear friends formed by
+long and pleasant associations to say "good bye" to forever, and long
+letters to promise telling all about the new life in the new home.
+
+One merry party of young folks were the center of attraction for the
+hilarity they displayed on this solemn occasion, many asking, "Are they
+as merry as they appear?" while they laughed and chattered away, saying
+all the funny things they could summon to their tongues' end, and all
+just to keep back the sobs and tears.
+
+Again and again were the "good byes" said, the "God bless you" repeated
+many times, and, as the hour-hand pointed to ten, we knew we soon must
+go. True to time the train rolled up to the depot, to take on its load
+of human freight to be landed 1,300 miles from home. Another clasping
+of hands in the last hurried farewell, the good wishes repeated, and we
+were hustled into the train, that soon started with an ominous whistle
+westward; sending back a wave of tear-stained handkerchiefs, while we
+received the same, mingled with cheers from encouraging ones left
+behind. The very clouds seemed to weep a sad farewell in flakes of pure
+snow, emblematic of the pure love of true friends, which indeed is
+heaven-born. Then faster came the snow-flakes, as faster fell the tears
+until a perfect shower had fallen; beautifying the earth with purity,
+even as souls are purified by love. We were glad to see the snow as it
+seemed more befitting the departing hour than bright sunshine. Looking
+back we saw the leader of the merry party, and whose eyes then sparkled
+with assumed joyousness, now flooded with tears that coursed down the
+cheeks yet pale with pent up emotion. Ah! where is the reader of
+hearts, by the smiles we wear, and the songs we sing? Around and among
+the hills our train wound and Bradford was quickly lost sight of.
+
+But, eager to make the best of the situation, we dried our tears and
+busied ourselves storing away luggage and lunch baskets, and arranging
+everything for comfort sake.
+
+This accomplished, those of us who were strangers began making friends,
+which was an easy task, for were we not all bound together under one
+bond whose law was mutual aid? All going to perhaps share the same toil
+and disadvantages, as well as the same pleasures of the new home?
+
+Then we settled down and had our dinners from our baskets. We heard a
+number complain of a lump in their throat that would scarcely allow
+them to swallow a bite, although the baskets were well filled with all
+the good things a lunch basket can be stored with.
+
+When nearing Jamestown, N.Y., we had a good view of Lake Chautauqua,
+now placid and calm, but when summer comes will bear on her bosom
+people from almost everywhere; for it is fast becoming one of the most
+popular summer resorts. The lake is eighteen miles long and three miles
+wide. Then down into Pennsylvania, again. As we were nearing Meadville,
+we saw the best farming land of all seen during the day. No hills to
+speak of after leaving Jamestown; perhaps they were what some would
+call hills, but to us who are used to real up-and-down hills, they lose
+their significance. The snow-storm followed us to Meadville, where we
+rested twenty minutes, a number of us employing the time in the
+childish sport of snow-balling. We thought it rather novel to snow-ball
+so near the month of buds and blossoms, and supposed it would be the
+last "ball" of the season, unless one of Dakota's big snow-storms would
+slide over the line, just a little ways, and give us a taste of
+Dakota's clime. As we were now "all aboard" from the different points,
+we went calling among the colonists and found we numbered in all
+sixty-five men, women, and children, and Pearl Payne the only colony
+babe.
+
+Each one did their part to wear away the day, and, despite the sad
+farewells of the morning, really seemed to enjoy the picnic. Smiles and
+jokes, oranges and bananas were in plenty, while cigars were passed
+to the gentlemen, oranges to the ladies, and chewing gum to the
+children. Even the canaries sang their songs from the cages hung to the
+racks. Thus our first day passed, and evening found us nearing
+Cleveland--leaving darkness to hide from our view the beautiful city
+and Lake Erie. We felt more than the usual solemnity of the twilight
+hour, when told we were going over the same road that was once strewn
+with flowers for him whom Columbia bowed her head in prayers and tears,
+such as she never but once uttered or shed before, and brought to mind
+lines I then had written:
+
+ Bloom now most beautiful, ye flowers,
+ Your loveliness we'll strew
+ From Washington to Cleveland's soil,
+ The funeral cortege through.
+ In that loved land that gave him birth
+ We lay him down to rest,
+ 'Tis but his mangled form alone,
+ His soul is with the blest.
+ Not Cleveland's soil alone is moist
+ With many a falling tear,
+ A mist is over all this land
+ For him we loved most dear.
+
+ "Nearer, my God, to thee," we sing;
+ In mournful strains and slow,
+ While in the tomb we gently lay,
+ Our martyred Garfield low.
+
+Songs sang in the early even-tide were never a lullaby to me, but
+rather the midnight hoot of the owl, so, while others turn seats, take
+up cushions and place them crosswise from seat to seat, and cuddled
+down to wooing sleep, I will busy myself with my pen. And as this may
+be read by many who never climbed a mountain, as well as those who
+never trod prairie land, I will attempt a description of the land we
+leave behind us. But Mr. Clark disturbs me every now and then, getting
+hungry, and thinking "it's most time to eat," and goes to hush Mr.
+Fuller to sleep, and while doing so steals away his bright, new coffee
+pot, in which his wife has prepared a two days' drinking; but Mr. C's
+generosity is making way with it in treating all who will take a sup,
+until he is now rinsing the grounds.
+
+Thus fun is kept going by a few, chasing sleep away from many who fain
+would dream of home. "Home!" the word we left behind us, and the word
+we go to seek; the word that charms the weary wandering ones more than
+all others, for there are found the sweetest if not the richest
+comforts of life. And of home I now would write; but my heart and hand
+almost fail me. I know I cannot do justice to the grand old mountains
+and hills, the beautiful valleys and streams that have known us since
+childhood's happy days, when we learned to love them with our first
+loving. Everyone goes, leaving some spot dearer than all others behind.
+'Tis not that we do not love our homes in the East, but a hope for a
+better in a land we may learn to love, that takes us west, and also the
+same spirit of enterprise and adventure that has peopled all parts of
+the world.
+
+When the sun rose Wednesday morning it found us in Indiana. We were
+surprised to see the low land, with here and there a hill of white
+sand, on which a few scrubby oaks grew. It almost gave me an ague chill
+to see so much ground covered with water that looked as though it meant
+to stay. Yet this land held its riches, for the farm houses were large
+and well built, and the fields were already quite green. But these were
+quickly lost sight of for a view of Lake Michigan, second in size of
+the five great lakes, and the only one lying wholly in the U.S. Area,
+24,000 square miles; greatest length, 340 miles, and greatest width, 88
+miles. The waters seemed to come to greet us, as wave after wave rolled
+in with foamy crest, only to die out on the sandy shore, along which we
+bounded. And, well, we could only look and look again, and speed on,
+with a sigh that we must pass the beautiful waters so quickly by, only
+to soon tread the busy, thronged streets of Chicago.
+
+The height of the buildings of brick and stone gives the streets a
+decidedly narrow appearance. A party of sight-seers was piloted around
+by Mr. Gibson, who spared no pains nor lost an opportunity of showing
+his party every attention. But our time was so limited that it was but
+little of Chicago we saw. Can only speak of the great court house,
+which is built of stone, with granite pillars and trimmings. The
+Chicago river, of dirty water, crowded with fishing and towing boats,
+being dressed and rigged by busy sailors, was quite interesting. It
+made us heartsick to see the poor women and children, who were
+anxiously looking for coal and rags, themselves only a mere rag of
+humanity.
+
+I shook my head and said, "wouldn't like to live here," and was not
+sorry when we were seated in a clean new coach of the S.C. & P.R.R.,
+and rolled out on the C. & N.W. road. Over the switches, past the dirty
+flagmen, with their inseparable pipe (wonder if they are the husbands
+and fathers of the coal and rag pickers?) out on to the broad land of
+Illinois--rolling prairie, we would call it, with scarcely a slump or
+stone. Farmers turning up the dark soil, and herds of cattle grazing
+everywhere in the great fields that were fenced about with board,
+barb-wire, and neatly trimmed hedge fence, the hedge already showing
+green.
+
+The farms are larger than our eastern farms, for the houses are so far
+apart; but here there are no hills to separate neighbors.
+
+Crossed the Mississippi river about four P.M., and when mid-way over
+was told, "now, we are in Iowa." River rather clear, and about a mile
+in width. Iowa farmers, too, were busy: some burning off the old grass,
+which was a novel sight to us.
+
+Daylight left us when near Cedar Rapids. How queer! it always gets dark
+just when we come to some interesting place we wanted so much to see.
+
+Well, all were tired enough for a whole night's rest, and looking more
+like a delegation from "Blackville"--from the soot and cinder-dirt--than
+a "party from Bradford," and apparently as happy as darkies at a
+camp-meeting, we sought our rest early, that we might rise about three
+o'clock, to see the hills of the coal region of Boone county by
+moonlight. I pressed my face close to the window, and peered out into
+the night, so anxious to see a hill once more. Travelers from the East
+miss the rough, rugged hills of home!
+
+The sun rose when near Denison, Iowa,--as one remarked, "not from
+behind a hill, but right out of the ground"--ushering in another
+beautiful day.
+
+At Missouri Valley we were joined by Mr. J. R. Buchanan, who came to
+see us across the Missouri river, which was done in transfer
+boats--three coaches taken across at a time. As the first boat was
+leaving, we stood upon the shore, and looked with surprise at the dull
+lead-color of the water. We knew the word Missouri signified muddy, and
+have often read of the unchanging muddy color of the water, yet we
+never realize what we read as what we see. We searched the sandy shore
+in vain for a pebble to carry away as a memento of the "Big Muddy," but
+"nary a one" could we find, so had to be content with a little sand.
+Was told the water was healthy to drink, but as for looks, we would not
+use it for mopping our floors with. The river is about three-fourths of
+a mile in width here. A bridge will soon be completed at this point,
+the piers of which are now built, and then the boats will be abandoned.
+When it came our turn to cross, we were all taken on deck, where we had
+a grand view. Looking north and south on the broad, rolling river, east
+to the bluffy shores of Iowa we had just left, and west to the level
+lands of Nebraska, which were greeted with "three rousing huzzahs for
+the state that was to be the future home of so many of our party." Yet
+we knew the merry shouts were echoed with sighs from sad hearts within.
+Some, we knew, felt they entered the state never to return, and know no
+other home.
+
+To those who had come with their every earthly possession, and who
+would be almost compelled to stay whether they were pleased or not, it
+certainly was a moment of much feeling. How different with those of us
+who carried our return tickets, and had a home to return to! It was not
+expected that all would be pleased; some would no doubt return more
+devoted to the old home than before.
+
+We watched the leaden waves roll by, down, on down, just as though they
+had not helped to bear us on their bosom to--we did not know what. How
+little the waves knew or cared! and never a song they sang to us; no
+rocks or pebbles to play upon. Truly, "silently flow the deep waters."
+Only the plowing through the water of the boat, and the splash of the
+waves against its side as we floated down and across. How like the
+world are the waters! We cross over, and the ripple we cause dies out
+on the shore; the break of the wave is soon healed, and they flow on
+just as before. But, reader, do we not leave footprints upon the shores
+that show whence we came, and whither we have gone? And where is the
+voyager upon life's sea that does not cast wheat and chaff, roses and
+thorns upon the waves as they cross over? Grant, Father, that it may be
+more of the wheat than chaff, more of the roses than thorns we cast
+adrift upon the sea of _our_ life; and though they may be tempest
+tossed, yet in Thy hands they will be gathered, not lost.
+
+When we reached the shore, we were again seated in our coach, and
+switched on to Nebraska's _terra firma_.
+
+Mr. J. R. Buchanan refers to Beaver county, Pa., as his birth-place,
+but had left his native state when yet a boy, and had wandered
+westward, and now resides in Missouri Valley, the general passenger
+agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. Co., which office we afterward learned he
+fills with true dignity and a generosity becoming the company he
+represents. He spoke with tenderness of the good old land of
+Pennsylvania, and displayed a hearty interest in the people who had
+just come from there. Indeed, there was much kindness expressed for
+"the colony going to the Niobrara country" all the way along, and many
+were the compliments paid. Do not blame us for self praise; we
+flattered ourselves that we _did_ well sustain the old family
+honors of "The Keystone." While nearing Blair, the singers serenaded
+Mr. B. with "Ten thousand miles away" and other appropriate songs in
+which he joined, and then with an earnest "God bless you," left us.
+Reader, I will have to travel this road again, and then I will tell you
+all about it. I have no time or chance to write now. The day is calm
+and bright, and more like a real picnic or pleasure excursion than a
+day of travel to a land of "doubt." When the train stopped any time at
+a station, a number of us would get off, walk about, and gather
+half-unfolded cottonwood and box elder leaves until "all aboard" was
+sung out, and we were on with the rest--to go calling and visit with
+our neighbors until the next station was reached. This relieved the
+monotony of the constant going, and rested us from the jog and jolt of
+the cars.
+
+One of the doings of the day was the gathering of a button string;
+mementos from the colony folks, that I might remember each one. I felt
+I was going only to soon leave them--they to scatter over the plains,
+and I to return perhaps never to again see Nebraska, and 'twas with a
+mingling of sadness with all the fun of the gathering, that I received
+a button from this one, a key or coin from that one, and scribbled down
+the name in my memorandum. I knew they would speak to me long after we
+had separated, and tell how the givers looked, or what they said as
+they gave them to me, thinking, no doubt, it was only child's play.
+
+Mr. Gibson continued with the party, just as obliging as ever, until we
+reached Fremont, where he turned back to look after more travelers from
+the East, as he is eastern passenger agent of the S.C. & P.R.R. He
+received the thanks of all for the kindness and patience he displayed
+in piloting a party of impatient emigrants through a three days'
+journey.
+
+Mr. Familton, who joined us at Denison, Iowa, and was going to help the
+claim hunters, took pity on our empty looking lunch baskets, and kindly
+had a number to take dinner at West Point and supper at Neligh with
+him. It was a real treat to eat a meal from a well spread table again.
+
+I must say I was disappointed; I had fancied the prairies would already
+be in waving grass; instead, they were yet brown and sere with the dead
+grass of last year excepting where they had been run over with fire,
+and that I could scarcely tell from plowed ground--it has the same
+rough appearance, and the soil is so very dark. Yet, the farther west
+we went, the better all seemed to be pleased. Thus, with song and
+sight-seeing, the day passed. "Old Sol" hid his smiling face from us
+when near Clearwater, and what a grand "good night" he bade us! and
+what beauty he spread out before us, going down like a great ball of
+fire, setting ablaze every little sheet of water, and windows in houses
+far away! Indeed, the windows were all we could see of the houses.
+
+We were all wide awake to the lovely scene so new to us. Lizzie saw
+this, Laura that, and Al, if told to look at the lovely sunset (but who
+had a better taste for wild game) would invariably exclaim: Oh! the
+prairie chickens! the ducks! the ducks! and wish for his gun to try his
+luck. Thus nothing was lost, but everything enjoyed, until we stopped
+at a small town where a couple of intoxicated men, claiming to be
+cow-boys, came swaggering through our car to see the party of
+"tenderfeet," as new arrivals from the East are termed by some, but
+were soon shown that their company was not congenial and led out of the
+car. My only defense is in flight and in getting out of the way; so I
+hid between the seats and held my ears. Oh! dear! why did I come west?
+I thought; but the train whistle blew and away we flew leaving our
+tormenters behind, and no one hurt. Thus ended our first battle with
+the much dreaded cow-boys; yet we were assured by others that they were
+not cow-boys, as they, with all their wildness, would not be guilty of
+such an act.
+
+About 11 o'clock, Thursday night, we arrived at our last station,
+Stuart, Holt county. Our coach was switched on a side-track, doors
+locked, blinds pulled down, and there we slept until the dawning of our
+first morning in Nebraska. The station agent had been apprised of our
+coming, and had made comfortable the depot and a baggage car with a
+good fire; that the men who had been traveling in other coaches and
+could not find room in the two hotels of the town, could find a
+comfortable resting place for the night.
+
+We felt refreshed after a night of quiet rest, and the salubrious air
+of the morning put us in fine spirits, and we flocked from the car like
+birds out of a cage, and could have flown like freed birds to their
+nests, some forty miles farther north-west, where the colonists
+expected to find their nests of homes.
+
+But instead, we quietly walked around the depot, and listened to a lark
+that sang us a sweet serenade from amid the grass close by; but we had
+to chase it up with a "shoo," and a flying clod before we could see the
+songster. Then by way of initiation into the life of the "wild west," a
+mark was pinned to a telegraph pole; and would you believe it, reader,
+the spirit of the country had so taken hold of us already that we took
+right hold of a big revolver, took aim, pulled the trigger, and after
+the smoke had cleared away, looked--and--well--we missed paper and
+pole, but hit the prairie beyond; where most of the shots were sown
+that followed.
+
+A number of citizens of Stuart had gathered about to see the "pack of
+Irish and German emigrants," expected, while others who knew what kind
+of people were coming, came with a hearty welcome for us. Foremost
+among these were Messrs. John and James Skirving, merchants and
+stockmen, who, with their welcome extended an invitation to a number to
+breakfast. But before going, several of us stepped upon the scales to
+note the effect the climate would have upon our avoirdupois. As I wrote
+down 94 lbs., I thought, "if my weight increases to 100 lbs., I will
+sure come again and stay." Then we scattered to look around until
+breakfast was ready. We espied a great red-wheeled something--I didn't
+know what, but full of curiosity went to see.
+
+A gentleman standing near asked: "Are you ladies of the colony that
+arrived last night?"
+
+"Yes, sir, and we are wondering what this is."
+
+"Why, that's an ox plow, and turns four furrows at one time."
+
+"Oh! we didn't know but that it was a western sulky."
+
+It was amusing to hear the guesses made as to what the farming
+implements were we saw along the way, by these new farmers. But we went
+to breakfast at Mr. John Skirving's wiser than most of them as far as
+ox-plows were concerned.
+
+What a breakfast! and how we did eat of the bread, ham, eggs, honey,
+and everything good. Just felt as though we had never been to breakfast
+before, and ate accordingly. That noted western appetite must have made
+an attack upon us already, for soon after weighing ourselves to see if
+the climate had affected a change yet, the weight slipped on
+to--reader, I promised you I would tell you the truth and the whole
+truth; but it is rather hard when it comes right down to the point of
+the pen to write ninety-six. And some of the others that liked honey
+better than I did, weighed more than two pounds heavier. Now what do
+you think of a climate like that?
+
+But we must add that we afterwards tested the difference in the scales,
+and in reality we had only eaten--I mean we had only gained one and a
+half pound from the salubrious air of the morning. Dinner and supper
+were the same in place, price, and quality, but not in quantity.
+
+When we went to the car for our luggage, we found Mr. Clark lying there
+trying to sleep.
+
+"Home-sick?" we asked.
+
+"No, but I'm nigh sick abed; didn't get any sleep last night."
+
+No, he was not homesick, only he fain would sleep and dream of home.
+
+First meeting of the N.M.A.C. was held on a board pile near the
+depot, to appoint a committee to secure transportation to the location.
+
+The coming of the colony from Pennsylvania had been noised abroad
+through the papers, and people were coming from every direction to
+secure a home near them, and the best of the land was fast being
+claimed by strangers, and the colonists felt anxious to be off on the
+morrow.
+
+The day was pleasant, and our people spent it in seeing what was to be
+seen in and about Stuart, rendering a unanimous "pleased" in the
+evening. Mr. John Skirving kindly gave three comfortable rooms above
+his store to the use of the colonists, and the ladies and children with
+the husbands went to house-keeping there Friday evening.
+
+_Saturday morning._ Pleasant. All is bustle and stir to get the men
+started to the location, and at last with oxen, horses, mules, and
+ponies, eight teams in all, attached to wagons and hacks, and loaded
+with the big tent and provisions, they were off. While the ladies who
+were disappointed at being left behind; merrily waved each load away.
+
+But it proved quite fortunate that we were left behind, as Saturday was
+the last of the pleasant days. Sunday was cool, rained some, and that
+western wind commenced to blow. We wanted to show that we were keepers
+of the Sabbath by attending services at the one church of the town.
+But, as the morning was unpleasant, we remained at the colony home and
+wrote letters to the dear ones of home, telling of our safe arrival.
+Many were the letters sent post haste from Stuart the following day to
+anxious ones in the East.
+
+In the afternoon it was pleasant enough for a walk across the prairie,
+about a quarter of a mile, to the Elkhorn river. When we reached the
+river I looked round and exclaimed: Why! what town is that? completely
+turned already and didn't know the town I had just left.
+
+The river has its source about fifteen miles south-west of Stuart, and
+is only a brook in width here, yet quite deep and very swift. The water
+is a smoky color, but so clear the fish will not be caught with hook
+and line, spears and seine are used instead.
+
+Like all the streams we have noticed in Nebraska it is very crooked,
+yet we do not wonder that the water does not know where to run, there
+is no "up or down" to this country; it is all just over to us; so the
+streams cut across here, and wind around there, making angles, loops,
+and turns, around which the water rushes, boiling and bubbling,--cross
+I guess because it has so many twists and turns to make; don't know
+what else would make it flow so swiftly in this level country. But hear
+what Prof. Aughey says:
+
+"The Elkhorn river is one of the most beautiful streams of the state.
+It rises west of Holt and Elkhorn counties. Near its source the valley
+widens to a very great breadth, and the bluffs bordering it are low and
+often inappreciable. The general direction of the main river
+approximates to 250 miles. Its direction is southeast. It empties into
+the Platte in the western part of Sarpy county. For a large part of its
+course the Elkhorn flows over rock bottom. It has considerable fall,
+and its steady, large volume of waters will render it a most valuable
+manufacturing region."
+
+We had not realized that as we went west from the Missouri river we
+made a constant ascent of several feet to the mile, else we would not
+have wondered at the rapid flow of the river. The clearness of the
+water is owing to its being gathered from innumerable lakelets; while
+the smoky color is from the dead grass that cover its banks and some
+places its bed.
+
+Then going a little farther on we prospected a sod house, and found it
+quite a decent affair. Walls three feet thick, and eight feet high;
+plastered inside with native lime, which makes them smooth and white;
+roof made of boards, tarred paper, and a covering of sod. The lady of
+the house tells me the house is warm in winter, and cool in summer. Had
+a drink of good water from the well which is fifteen feet deep, and
+walled up with barrels with the ends knocked out.
+
+The common way of drawing water is by a rope, swung over a pulley on a
+frame several feet high, which brings to the top a zinc bucket the
+shape and length of a joint of stove pipe, with a wooden bottom. In the
+bottom is a hole over which a little trap door or valve is fastened
+with leather hinges. You swing the bucket over a trough, and let it
+down upon a peg fastened there, that raises the trap door and leaves
+the water out. Some use a windlass. It seemed awkward to us at
+first, but it is a cheap pump, and one must get used to a good many
+inconveniences in a new country. But we who are used to dipping water
+from springs, are not able to be a judge of pumps. Am told the water is
+easily obtained, and generally good; though what is called hard water.
+
+The country is almost a dead level, without a tree or bush in sight.
+But when on a perfect level the prairie seems to raise around you,
+forming a sort of dish with you in the center. Can see the sand hills
+fifteen miles to the southwest quite distinctly. Farm houses, mostly
+sod, dot the surrounding country.
+
+_Monday, 30th._ Cool, with some rain, high wind, and little sunshine.
+For the sake of a quiet place where I could write, I sought and found a
+very pleasant stopping place with the family of Mr. John Skirving, of
+whom I have before spoken, and who had but lately brought his family
+from Jefferson City, Iowa.
+
+_Tuesday._ A very disagreeable day; driving rain, that goes through
+everything, came down all day. Do wonder how the claim hunters in camp
+near the Keya Paha river will enjoy this kind of weather, with nothing
+but their tent for shelter.
+
+_Wednesday._ About the same as yesterday, cold and wet; would have
+snowed, but the wind blew the flakes to pieces and it came down a fine
+rain.
+
+Mrs. S. thinks she will go back to Iowa, and I wonder if it rains at
+home.
+
+_Thursday._ And still it rains and blows!
+
+_Friday._ A better day. Last night the wind blew so hard that I got out
+of bed and packed my satchel preparatory to being blown farther west,
+and dressed ready for the trip. The mode of travel was so new to me I
+scarcely knew what to wear. Everything in readiness, I lay me down and
+quietly waited the going of the roof, but found myself snug in bed in
+the morning, and a roof over me. The wind was greatly calmed, and I
+hastened to view the ruins of the storm of the night, but found nothing
+had been disturbed, only my slumber. The wind seems to make more noise
+than our eastern winds of the same force; and eastern people seem to
+make more noise about the wind than western people do. Don't think that
+I was frightened; there is nothing like being ready for emergencies! I
+had heard so much of the storms and winds of the West, that I half
+expected a ride on the clouds before I returned. The clouds cleared
+away, and the sun shone out brightly, and soon the wind had the mud so
+dried that it was pleasant walking. The soil is so mixed with sand that
+the mud is never more than a couple of inches deep here, and is soon
+dried. When dry a sandy dust settles over everything, but not a dirty
+dust. A number of the colony men returned to-day.
+
+_Saturday._ Pleasant. The most of the men have returned. The majority
+in good heart and looking well despite the weather and exposure they
+have been subject to, and have selected claims. But a few are
+discouraged and think they will look for lands elsewhere.
+
+They found the land first thought of so taken that they had to go still
+farther northwest--some going as far west as Holt creek, and so
+scattered that but few of them can be neighbors. This is a
+disappointment not looked for, they expected to be so located that the
+same church and school would serve them all.
+
+Emigrant wagons have been going through Stuart in numbers daily,
+through wind and rain, all going in that direction, to locate near the
+colony. The section they had selected for a town plot had also been
+claimed by strangers. Yet, I am told, the colonists might have located
+more in a body had they gone about their claim-hunting more
+deliberately. And the storm helped to scatter them. The tent which was
+purchased with colony funds, and a few individual dollars, proved to be
+a poor bargain. When first pitched there was a small rent near the top,
+which the wind soon whipped into a disagreeably large opening. But the
+wind brought the tent to the ground, and it was rightly mended, and
+hoisted in a more sheltered spot. But, alas! down came the tent again,
+and as many as could found shelter in the homes of the old settlers.
+
+Some selected their claims, plowed a few furrows, and laid four poles
+in the shape of a pen, or made signs of improvement in some way, and
+then went east to Niobrara City, or west to Long Pine, to a land office
+and had the papers taken out for their claims. Others, thinking there
+was no need of such hurried precautions, returned to Stuart to spend
+the Sabbath, and lost their claims. One party selected a claim,
+hastened to a land office to secure it, and arrived just in time to see
+a stranger sign his name to the necessary documents making it his.
+
+Will explain more about claim-taking when I have learned more about it.
+
+_Sunday, 6 May._ Bright and warm. Would not have known there had
+been any rain during the past week by the ground, which is nicely
+dried, and walking pleasant.
+
+A number of us attended Sunday school and preaching in the forenoon,
+and were well entertained and pleased with the manner in which the
+Sunday school was conducted, while the organ in the corner made it
+quite home-like. We were glad to know there were earnest workers even
+here, where we were told the Sabbath was not observed; and but for our
+attendance here would have been led to believe it were so. Teams going,
+and stores open to people who come many miles to do their trading on
+this day; yet it is done quietly and orderly.
+
+The minister rose and said, with countenance beaming with earnestness:
+"I thank God there are true christians to be found along this Elkhorn
+valley, and these strangers who are with us to-day show by their
+presence they are not strangers to Christ; God's house will always be
+sought and found by his people." While our hearts were filled with
+thanksgiving, that the God we love is very God everywhere, and unto him
+we can look for care and protection at all times.
+
+In the evening we again gathered, and listened to a sermon on
+temperance, which, we were glad to know, fell upon a temperance people,
+as far as we knew our brother and sister colonists. After joining in
+"What a friend we have in Jesus" we went away feeling refreshed from
+"The fountain that freely flows for all," and walked home under the
+same stars that made beautiful the night for friends far away. Ah! we
+had begun to measure the distance from home already, and did not dare
+to think how far we were from its shelter.
+
+But, as the stars are, so is God high over all; and the story of his
+love is just the same the wide world over.
+
+_Monday._ Pleasant. Colonists making preparation to start to the
+location to-morrow, with their families. Some who have none but
+themselves to care for, have started.
+
+_Tuesday._ Rains. Folks disappointed.
+
+_Wednesday._ Rains and blows. Discouraging.
+
+_Thursday._ Blows and rains. _Very_ discouraging.
+
+The early settlers say they never knew such a long rain at this season.
+Guess it is raining everywhere; letters are coming telling of a snow in
+some places nine and ten inches deep, on the 25th of April; of hard
+frozen ground, and continuous rains. It is very discouraging for the
+colony folks to be so detained; but they are thankful they are snug in
+comfortable quarters, in Stuart, instead of out they scarcely know
+where. Some have prepared muslin tents to live in until they can build
+their log or sod houses. They are learning that those who left their
+families behind until a home was prepared for them, acted wisely. I
+cannot realize as they do the disappointment they have met with, yet I
+am greatly in sympathy with them.
+
+With the first letter received from home came this word from father: "I
+feel that my advanced years will not warrant me in changing homes."
+Well, that settled the matter of my taking a claim, even though the
+land proved the best. Yet I am anxious to see and know all, now that I
+am here, for history's sake, and intend going to the colony grounds
+with the rest. Brother Charley has written me from Plum Creek, Dawson
+county, to meet him at Fremont as soon as I can, and he will show me
+some of the beauties of the Platte valley; but I cannot leave until I
+have done this part of Nebraska justice. Mr. and Mrs. S. show me every
+kindness, and in such a way that I am made to feel perfectly at home;
+in turn I try to assist Mrs. S. with her household duties, and give
+every care and attention to wee Nellie, who is quite ill. I started on
+my journey breathing the prayer that God would take me into His own
+care and keeping, and raise up kind friends to make the way pleasant. I
+trusted all to Him, and now in answer, am receiving their care and
+protection as one of their own. Thus the time passes pleasantly, while
+I eat and sleep with an appetite and soundness I never knew
+before--though I fancy Mrs. S's skill as a cook has a bearing on my
+appetite, as well as the climate--yet every one experiences an increase
+of appetite, and also of weight. One of our party whom we had called
+"the pale man" for want of his right name, had thrown aside his "soft
+beaver" and adopted a stockman's wide rimmed sombrero traded his
+complexion to the winds for a bronze, and gained eight pounds in the
+eleven days he has been out taking the weather just as it came, and
+wherever it found him.
+
+_Friday._ Rain has ceased and it shows signs of clearing off.
+
+It does not take long for ground and grass to dry off enough for a
+prairie fire, and they have been seen at distances all around Stuart at
+night, reminding us of the gas-lights on the Bradford hills. The
+prairies look like new mown hay-fields; but they are not the hay-fields
+of Pennsylvania; a coarse, woody grass that must be burnt off, to allow
+the young grass to show itself when it comes in the spring. Have seen
+some very poor and neglected looking cattle that have lived all winter
+upon the prairie without shelter. I am told that, not anticipating so
+long a winter, many disposed of their hay last fall, and now have to
+drive their cattle out to the "divides,"--hills between rivers--to
+pasture on the prairie; and this cold wet weather has been very hard on
+them, many of the weak ones dying. It has been a novel sight, to watch
+a little girl about ten years old herding sheep near town; handling her
+pony with a masterly hand, galloping around the herd if they begin to
+scatter out, and driving them, into the corral. I must add that I have
+also seen some fine looking cattle. I must tell you all the bad with
+the good.
+
+During all this time, and despite the disagreeable weather, emigrants
+keep up the line of march through Stuart, all heading for the Niobrara
+country, traveling in their "prairie schooners," as the great
+hoop-covered wagon is called, into which, often are packed their every
+worldly possession, and have room to pile in a large family on top.
+Sometimes a sheet-iron stove is carried along at the rear of the wagon,
+which, when needed, they set up inside and put the pipe through a hole
+in the covering. Those who do not have this convenience carry wood with
+them and build a fire on the ground to cook by; cooking utensils are
+generally packed in a box at the side or front. The coverings of the
+wagons are of all shades and materials; muslin, ducking, ticking,
+overall stuff, and oil-cloth. When oil-cloth is not used they are often
+patched over the top with their oil-cloth table covers. The women and
+children generally do the driving, while the men and boys bring up the
+rear with horses and cattle of all grades, from poor weak calves that
+look ready to lay them down and die, to fine, fat animals, that show
+they have had a good living where they came from.
+
+Many of these people are from Iowa, are intelligent and show a good
+education. One lady we talked with was from Michigan; had four bright
+little children with her, the youngest about a year old; had come from
+Missouri Valley in the wagon; but told us of once before leaving
+Michigan and trying life in Texas; but not being suited with the
+country, had returned, as they were now traveling, in only a wagon,
+spending ten weeks on the way. She was driver and nurse both, while her
+husband attended to several valuable Texas horses.
+
+Another lady said: "Oh! we are from Mizzurie; been on the way three
+weeks."
+
+"How can you travel through such weather?"
+
+"Oh! we don't mind it, we have a good ducking cover that keeps out the
+rain, and when the wind blows very hard we tie the wagon down."
+
+"Never get sick?"
+
+"No."
+
+"Not even a cold?"
+
+"Oh! no, feel better now than when we started."
+
+"How many miles can you go in a day?"
+
+"We average about twenty."
+
+The sun and wind soon tans their faces a reddish brown, but they look
+healthy, happy, and contented. Thus you see, there is a needed class of
+people in the West that think no hardship to pick up and thus go
+whither their fancy may lead them, and to this class in a great measure
+we owe the opening up of the western country.
+
+_Saturday morning._ Cloudy and threatened more storm, but cleared off
+nicely after a few stray flakes of "beautiful snow" had fallen. All
+getting ready to make a start to the colony location. Hearing that Mr.
+Lewis, one of the colonists, would start with the rest with a team of
+oxen, I engaged a passage in his wagon. I wanted to go West as the
+majority go, and enter into the full meaning and spirit of it all; so,
+much to the surprise of many, I donned a broad brimmed sombrero, and
+left Stuart about one o'clock, perched on the spring seat of a double
+bed wagon, in company with Mrs. Gilman, who came from Bradford last
+week. Mr. Lewis finds it easier driving, to walk, and is accompanied by
+Mr. Boggs, who I judge has passed his three score years.
+
+Thinking I might get hungry on the way or have to tent out, Mrs. S.
+gave me a loaf of bread, some butter, meat, and stewed currants to
+bring along; but the first thing done was the spilling of the juice off
+the currants.
+
+Come, reader, go with me on my first ride over the plains of Nebraska
+behind oxen; of course they do not prance, pace, gallop, or trot; I
+think they simply walk, but time will tell how fast they can jog along.
+Sorry we cannot give you the shelter of a "prairie schooner," for the
+wind does not forget to blow, and it is a little cool.
+
+Mr. L. has already named his matched brindles, "Brock and Broady," and
+as they were taken from the herd but yesterday, and have not been under
+the yoke long, they are rather untutored; but Mr. L. is tutoring them
+with a long lash whip, and I think he will have them pretty well
+trained by the time we reach the end of our journey.
+
+"Whoa, there Broady! get up! it's after one and dear only knows how far
+we have got to go. Don't turn 'round so, you'll upset the wagon!" We
+are going directly north-west. This, that looks like great furrows
+running parallel with the road, I am told, is the old wagon train road
+running from Omaha to the Black Hills. It runs directly through Stuart,
+but I took it to be a narrow potato patch all dug up in deep rows. I
+see when they get tired of the old ruts, they just drive along side and
+make a new road which soon wears as deep as the old. No road taxes to
+pay or work done on the roads here, and never a stone to cause a jolt.
+The jolting done is caused in going from one rut to another.
+
+Here we are four miles from Stuart, and wading through a two-mile
+stretch of wet ground, all standing in water. No signs of habitation,
+not even Stuart to be seen from this point.
+
+Mr. Lewis wishes for a longer whip-stock or handle; I'll keep a look
+out and perhaps I will find one.
+
+Now about ten miles on our way and Stuart in plain view. There must be
+a raise and fall in the ground that I cannot notice in going over it.
+Land is better here Mr. B. says, and all homesteaded. Away to our right
+are a few little houses, sod and frame. While to the left, 16 miles
+away, are to be seen the sand-hills, looking like great dark waves.
+
+The walking is so good here that I think I will relieve the--oxen of
+about 97 pounds. You see I have been gaining in my avoirdupois. I enjoy
+walking over this old road, gathering dried grasses and pebbles,
+wishing they could speak and tell of the long emigrant trains that had
+tented at night by the wayside; of travelers going west to find new
+homes away out on the wild plains; of the heavy freight trains carrying
+supplies to the Indian agencies and the Black Hills; of the buffalo
+stampede and Indian "whoop" these prairies had echoed with, but which
+gave way to civilization only a few years ago, and now under its
+protection, we go over the same road in perfect safety, where robbery
+and massacres have no doubt been committed. Oh! the change of time!
+
+Twelve miles from Stuart, why would you believe it, here's a real
+little hill with a small stream at the bottom. Ash creek it is called,
+but I skip it with ease, and as I stop to play a moment in the clear
+water and gather a pebble from its gravelly bed, I answer J. G. Holland
+in Kathrina with: Surely, "the crystal brooks _are_ sweeter for singing
+to the thirsty brutes that dip their bearded muzzles in their foam,"
+and thought what a source of delight this little stream is to the many
+that pass this way. Then viewed the remains of a sod house on the
+hillside, and wondered what king or queen of the prairie had reigned
+within this castle of the West, the roof now tumbled in and the walls
+falling.
+
+Ah! there is plenty of food for thought, and plenty of time to think as
+the oxen jog along, and I bring up the rear, seeing and hearing for
+your sake, reader.
+
+Only a little way from the creek, and we pass the first house that
+stands near the road, and that has not been here long, for it is quite
+new. The white-haired children playing about the door will not bother
+their neighbors much, or get out of the yard and run off for awhile at
+least, as there is no other house in sight, and the boundless prairie
+is their dooryard. Happy mother! Happy children!
+
+Now we are all aboard the wagon, and I have read what I have written of
+the leave taking of home; Mr. B. wipes his eyes as it brings back
+memories of the good byes to him; Mr. L. says, "that's very truly
+written," and Mrs. G. whispers, "I must have one of your books, Sims."
+All this is encouraging, and helps me to keep up brave heart, and put
+forth every effort to the work I have begun, and which is so much of an
+undertaking for me.
+
+"Oh! Mr. Lewis, there it is!"
+
+"Is what?"
+
+"Why, that stick for a whip-handle."
+
+I had been watching all the way along, and it was the only stick I had
+seen, and some poor unfortunate had lost it.
+
+The sun is getting low, and Mr. L. thinks we had better stop over night
+at this old log-house, eighteen miles from Stuart, and goes to talk to
+the landlord about lodging. I view the prospects without and think of
+way-side inns I have read of in story, but never seen before, and am
+not sorry when he returns and reports: "already crowded with
+travelers," and flourishing his new whip starts Brock and Broady,
+though tired and panting, into a trot toward the Niobrara, and soon we
+are nearing another little stream called Willow creek, named from the
+few little willow bushes growing along its banks, the first bushes seen
+all the way along. It is some wider than Ash creek, and as there is no
+bridge we must ride across. Mr. L. is afraid the oxen are thirsty and
+will go straight for the water and upset the wagon. Oh, dear! I'll just
+shut my eyes until we are on the other side.
+
+There, Mr. B. thinks he sees a nest of prairie chicken eggs and goes to
+secure some for a novelty, but changes his mind and thinks he'll not
+disturb that nest of white puff-balls, and returns to the wagon quite
+crestfallen. Heavy looking clouds gathering in the west, obscure the
+setting sun, which is a real disappointment. The dawning and fading of
+the days in Nebraska are indeed grand, and I did so want a sunset feast
+this evening, for I could view it over the bluffy shores of the
+Niobrara river. Getting dark again, just when the country is growing
+most interesting.
+
+Mr. B. and L. say, "bad day to-morrow, more rain sure;" I consult my
+barometer and it indicates fair weather. If it is correct I will name
+it Vennor, if not I shall dub it Wiggins. Thermometer stands at 48 deg.,
+think I had better walk and get warmed up; a heavy cloth suit, mohair
+ulster and gossamer is scarcely sufficient to keep the chilly wind out.
+
+One mile further on and darkness overtakes us while sticking on the
+banks of Rock creek, a stream some larger than Willow creek, and
+bridged with poles for pedestrians, on which we crossed; but the oxen,
+almost tired out, seemed unequal for the pull up the hill. Mr. L. uses
+the whip, while Mr. B. pushes, and Mrs. G. and I stand on a little rock
+that juts out of the hill--first stone or rock seen since we entered
+the state, and pity the oxen, but there they stick. Ah! here is a man
+coming with an empty wagon and two horses; now he will help us up the
+hill. "Can you give me a lift?" Mr. L. asks. "I'm sorry I can't help
+you gentlemen, but that off-horse is _terribly weak_. The other horse
+is all right, but you can see for yourself, gentlemen, how weak that
+off-horse is." And away he goes, rather brisk for a weak horse. While
+we come to the conclusion that he has not been west long enough to
+learn the ways of true western kindness. (We afterwards learned he was
+lately from Pennsylvania.) But here comes Mr. Ross and Mr. Connelly who
+have walked all the way from Stuart. Again the oxen pull, the men push,
+but not a foot gained; wagon only settling firmer into the mud. The men
+debate and wonder what to do. "Why not unload the trunks and carry them
+up the hill?" I ask. Spoopendike like, someone laughed at my
+suggestion, but no sooner said than Mr. L. was handing down a trunk
+with, "That's it--only thing we can do; here help with this trunk," and
+a goodly part of the load is carried to the top of the hill by the men,
+while I carry the guns. How brave we are growing, and how determined to
+go west; and the oxen follow without further trouble.
+
+When within a mile and a half of the river, those of us who can, walk,
+as it is dangerous driving after dark, and we take across, down a hill,
+across a little canyon, at the head of which stands a little house with
+a light in the window that looks inviting, but on we go, across a
+narrow channel of the river, on to an island covered with diamond
+willow bushes, and a few trees. See a light from several "prairie
+schooners" that have cast anchor amid the bushes, and which make a very
+good harbor for these ships of the west.
+
+"What kind of a shanty is this?"
+
+"Why that is a wholesale and retail store, but the merchant doesn't
+think worth while to light up in the evening."
+
+On we walk over a sort of corduroy road made of bushes, and so tired I
+can scarcely take another step.
+
+"Well, is this the place?" I asked as we stopped to look in at the open
+door of a double log house, on a company of people who are gathered
+about an organ and singing, "What a friend we have in Jesus."
+
+"No, just across the river where you see that light."
+
+Another bridge is crossed, and we set us down in Aunty Slack's hotel
+about 9 o'clock. Tired? yes, and _so glad_ to get to _somewhere_.
+
+Mr. John Newell, who lives near the Keya Paha, left Stuart shortly
+after we did, with Mrs. and Miss Lizzie, Laura, and Verdie Ross, in his
+hack, but soon passed us with his broncho ponies and had reached here
+before dark.
+
+Three other travelers were here for the night, a Keya Paha man, a Mr.
+Philips, of Iowa, and Mr. Truesdale, of Bradford, Pa.
+
+"How did the rest get started?" Mrs. R. asks of her husband.
+
+"Well, Mr. Morrison started with his oxen, with Willie Taylor, and Mrs.
+M. and Mrs. Taylor rode in the buggy tied to the rear end of the wagon.
+Mr. Barnwell and several others made a start with his team of oxen. But
+Mr. Taylor's horses would not pull a pound, so he will have to take
+them back to the owner and hunt up a team of oxen." We had expected to
+all start at the same time, and perhaps tent out at night. A good
+supper is refreshing to tired travelers, but it is late before we get
+laid down to sleep. At last the ladies are given two beds in a new
+apartment just erected last week, and built of cedar logs with a sod
+roof, while the men throw themselves down on blankets and comforts on
+the floor, while the family occupies the old part.
+
+About twelve o'clock the rain began to patter on the sod shingles of
+the roof over head, which by dawn was thoroughly soaked, and gently
+pouring down upon the sleepers on the floor, causing a general
+uprising, and driving them from the room. It won't leak on our side of
+the house, so let's sleep awhile longer; but just as we were dropping
+into the arms of Morpheus, spat! came a drop on our pillow, which said,
+"get up!" in stronger terms than mother ever did. I never saw a finer
+shower inside a house before. What a crowd we made for the little log
+house, 14x16 feet, built four years ago, and which served as kitchen,
+dining room, chamber, and parlor, and well crowded with furniture,
+without the addition of fourteen rain-bound travelers, beside the
+family, which consisted of Mrs. Slack, proprietress, a daughter and
+son-in-law, and a hired girl, 18 heads in all to be sheltered by this
+old sod roof made by a heavy ridge pole, or log laid across at the
+comb, which supports slabs or boards laid from the wall, then brush and
+dried grass, and then the sod. The walls are well chinked and whitened.
+The door is the full height of the wall, and the tallest of the men
+have to strictly observe etiquette, and bow as they enter and leave the
+house. Mr. Boggs invariably strikes a horse shoe suspended to the
+ceiling with his head, and keeps "good luck" constantly on the swing
+over us. The roof being old and well settled, keeps it from leaking
+badly; but Mrs. S. says there is danger of it sliding off or caving in.
+Dear me! I feel like crawling under the table for protection.
+
+Rain! rain! think I will give the barometer the full name of R. Stone
+Wiggins! Have a mind to throw him into the river by way of immersion,
+but fear he would stick in a sand-bar and never predict another storm,
+so will just hang him on the wall out side to be sprinkled.
+
+The new house is entirely abandoned, fires drowned out, organ, sewing
+machine, lunch baskets, and bedding protected as well as can be with
+carpet and rubber coats.
+
+How glad I am that I have no luggage along to get soaked. My butter and
+meat was lost out on the prairie or in the river--hope it is meat cast
+adrift for some hungry traveler--and some one has used my loaf for a
+cushion, and how sad its countenance! Don't care if it does get wet! So
+I just pin my straw hat to the wall and allow it to rain on, as free
+from care as any one can be under such circumstances. I wanted
+experience, and am being gratified, only in a rather dampening way.
+Some find seats on the bed, boxes, chairs, trunk, and wood-box, while
+the rest stand. We pass the day talking of homes left behind and
+prospects of the new. Seven other travelers came in for dinner, and
+went again to their wagons tucked around in the canyons.
+
+The house across the river is also crowded, and leaking worse than the
+_hotel_ where we are stopping. Indeed, we feel thankful for the shelter
+we have as we think of the travelers unprotected in only their wagons,
+and wonder where the rest of our party are.
+
+The river is swollen into a fretful stream and the sound of the waters
+makes us even more homesick.
+
+"More rain, more grass," "more rain, more rest," we repeated, and every
+thing else that had a jingle of comfort in it; but oftener heard, "I
+_do wish_ it would stop!" "When _will_ it clear off?" "Does it _always_
+rain here?" It did promise to clear off a couple of times, only to
+cloud up again, and so the day went as it came, leaving sixteen souls
+crowded in the cabin to spend the night as best we could. Just how was
+a real puzzle to all. But midnight solves the question. Reader, I wish
+you were here, seated on this spring wagon seat with me by the stove, I
+then would be spared the pain of a description. Did you ever read Mark
+Twain's "Roughing It?" or "Innocents Abroad?" well, there are a few
+_innocents abroad_, just now, _roughing it_ to their hearts' content.
+
+The landlady, daughter, and maid, with Laura, have laid them down
+crosswise on the bed. The daughter's husband finds sleep among some
+blankets, on the floor at the side of the bed. Mr. Ross, almost sick,
+sticks his head under the table and feet under the cupboard and snores.
+Mrs. Ross occupies the only rocker--there, I knew she would rock on Mr.
+Philips who is stretched out on a one blanket just behind her! Double
+up, Mr. P., and stick your knees between the rockers and you'll stand a
+better chance.
+
+If you was a real birdie, Mrs. Gilman, or even a chicken, you might
+perch on the side of that box. To sleep in that position would be
+dangerous; dream of falling sure and might not be all a dream, and
+then, Mr. Boggs would be startled from his slumbers. Poor man! We do
+pity him! Six feet two inches tall; too much to get all of himself
+fixed in a comfortable position at one time. Now bolt upright on a
+chair, now stretched out on the floor, now doubled up; and now he is on
+two chairs looking like the last grasshopper of the raid. Hush! Lizzie,
+you'll disturb the thirteen sleepers.
+
+Mr. Lewis has turned the soft side of a chair up for a pillow before
+the stove, and list--he snores a dreamy snore of home-sweet-ho-om-me.
+
+Mr. Truesdale is rather fidgety, snugly tucked in behind the stove on a
+pile of kindling wood. I'm afraid he will black his ears on the pots
+and kettles that serve as a back ground for his head, but better that
+than nothing. Am afraid Mr. Newell, who is seated on an inverted wooden
+pail, will loose his head in the wood-box, for want of a head rest, if
+he doesn't stop nodding so far back.
+
+Hold tight to your book, Mr. N., you may wake again and read a few more
+words of Kathrina.
+
+Here, Laura, get up and let your little sister, Verdie, lie down on the
+bed. "That table is better to eat off than sleep on," Lizzie says, and
+crawls down to claim a part of my wagon seat in which I have been
+driving my thoughts along with pencil and paper, and by way of a jog,
+give the stove a punch with a stick of wood, every now and then;
+casting a sly glance to see if the old lady looks cross in her sleep,
+because we are burning all her dry wood up, and dry wood is a rather
+scarce article just now. But can't be helped. The feathery side of
+these boards are down, the covers all wet in the other room, and these
+sleepers must be kept warm.
+
+Roll over, Mr. Lewis, and give Mrs. Ross room whereon to place her feet
+and take a little sleep! Now Mrs. R.'s feet are not large if she does
+weigh over two hundred pounds; small a plenty; but not quite as small
+as the unoccupied space, that's all.
+
+Well, it's Monday now, 'tis one o'clock, dear me; wonder what ails my
+eyes; feels like there's sand in them. I wink, and wink, but the
+oftener, the longer. Do believe I'm getting sleepy too! What will I do?
+To sleep here would insure a nod over on the stove; no room on the
+floor without danger of kicks from booted sleepers. Lizzie, says, "Get
+up on the table, Sims," it will hold a little thing like you. So I
+leave the seat solely to her and mount the table, fully realizing that
+"necessity is the mother of invention," and that western people do just
+as they can, mostly. So
+
+ All cuddled up together,
+ In a little weenty heap,
+ I double up my pillow
+ And laugh myself to sleep.
+ I know you will not blame me
+ If I dream of home so bright--
+ I'll see you in the morning
+ So now a kind "good night".
+
+As there is no room for the muses to visit me here I'll not attempt
+further poetizing but go to sleep and dream I am snug in my own little
+bed at home. Glad father and mother do not know where their daughter is
+seeking rest for to-night.
+
+"Get up, Sims, it's five o'clock and Mrs. S. wants to set the table for
+breakfast," and I start up, rubbing my eyes, wishing I could sleep
+longer, and wondering why I hadn't come west long ago, and hadn't
+always slept on a table?
+
+I only woke once during the night, and as the lamp was left burning,
+could see that Mrs. R. had found a place for her feet, and all were
+sound asleep. Empty stomachs, weariness, and dampened spirits are
+surely three good opiates which, taken together, will make one sleep in
+almost any position. Do wonder if "Mark" ever slept on an extension
+table when he was out west? Don't think he did, believe he'd use the
+dirty floor before he'd think of the table; so I am ahead in this
+chapter.
+
+Well, the fun was equal to the occasion, and I think no one will ever
+regret the time spent in the little log house at "Morrison's bridge,"
+and cheerfully paid their $1.75 for their four meals and two nights'
+lodging, only as we jogged along through the cold next day, all thought
+they would have had a bite of supper, and not gone hungry to the floor,
+to sleep.
+
+_Monday morning._ Cold, cloudy, and threatening more rain. Start
+about eight o'clock for the Keya Paha, Mr. N. with the Ross ladies
+ahead, while the walkers stay with our "span of brindles" to help push
+them up the hill, and I walk to relieve them of my weight.
+
+But we have reached the table-land, and as I have made my impress in
+the sand and mud of this hill of science, I gladly resume my seat in
+the wagon with Mrs. Gilman, who is freezing with a blanket pinned on
+over her shawl. Boo! The wind blows cold, and it sprinkles and tries to
+snow, and soon I too am almost freezing with all my wraps on, my head
+well protected with fascinator, hat, and veil. How foolish I was to
+start on such a trip without good warm mittens. "Let's get back on the
+trunks, Mrs. G., and turn our backs to the wind." But that is not all
+sufficient and Mr. L. says he cannot wear his overcoat while walking
+and kindly offers it to me, and I right willingly crawl into it, and
+pull it up over my ears, and draw my hands up in the sleeves, and try
+hard to think I am warm. I can scarcely see out through all this
+bundling, but I must keep watch and see all I can of the country as I
+pass along. Yet, it is just the same all the way, with the only
+variation of, from level, to slightly undulating prairie land. Not a
+tree, bush, stump, or stone to be seen. Followed the old train road for
+several miles and then left it, and traveled north over an almost
+trackless prairie. During the day's travel we met but two parties, both
+of whom were colonists on their way to Long Pine to take claims in that
+neighborhood. Passed close to two log houses just being built, and two
+squads of tenters who peered out at us with their sunburnt faces
+looking as contented as though they were perfectly satisfied with their
+situation.
+
+The oxen walked right along, although the load was heavy and the ground
+soft, and we kept up a steady line of march toward the Keya Paha, near
+where most of the colonists had selected their claims, and as we neared
+their lands, the country took on a better appearance.
+
+The wind sweeps straight across, and the misting rain from clouds that
+look to be resting upon the earth, makes it a very gloomy outlook, and
+very disagreeable. Yet I would not acknowledge it. I was determined, if
+possible, to make the trip without taking cold. So Mrs. G. and I kept
+up the fun until we were too cold to laugh, and then began to ask: "How
+much farther do we have to go? When will we reach there?" Until we were
+ashamed to ask again, so sat quiet, wedged down between trunks and a
+plow, and asked no more questions.
+
+"Oh, joy! Mrs. G., there's a house; and I do believe that is Mrs. Ross
+with Lizzie and Laura standing at the door. I'll just wave them a
+signal of distress, and they will be ready to receive us with open
+arms."
+
+And soon we are safely landed at Mr. J. Newell's door, where a married
+brother lives. They gave us a kindly welcome, and a good warm dinner.
+After we had rested, Mr. N. took the ladies three miles farther on to
+the banks of the Keya Paha river, which is 18 miles from the Niobrara
+and 48 from Stuart, arriving there about four P.M.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. John Kuhn, with whom the party expected to make their home
+until they could get their tents up, received us very kindly, making us
+feel quite at home.
+
+Mrs. K. is postmistress of Brewer postoffice, and her table was well
+supplied with good reading matter. I took up a copy of "Our Continent"
+to read while I rested, and opened directly to a poem by H. A. Lavely:
+
+ "The sweetest songs are never sung;
+ The fairest pictures never hung;
+ The fondest hopes are never told--
+ They are the heart's most cherished gold."
+
+They were like a voice directly from the pleasant days of last summer,
+when the author with his family was breathing mountain air at DuBois
+City, Pa., when we exchanged poems of our own versing, and Mrs. L.
+added her beautiful children's stories.
+
+He had sent them to me last Christmas time, just after composing them,
+and now I find them in print away on the very frontier of civilization.
+How little writers know how far the words they pen for the public to
+read, will reach out! Were they prophetic for our colonists?
+
+_Tuesday, 15th of May_, dawned without a cloud, and how bright
+everything looks when the clouds have rolled away. Why, the poor
+backward buds look as though they would smile right open. What a change
+from that of yesterday! Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my
+May day, but the story is a long one--too long for the pages of my
+little book.
+
+And now Mrs. Ross and the girls are ready with baskets to go with me to
+gather what we can find in the way of flowers and leaves along the
+hillside and valley of the Keya Paha. For flowers we gather blossoms of
+the wild plum, cherry, and currant, a flower they call buffalo beans,
+and one little violet. But the leaves were not forgotten, and twigs
+were gathered of every different tree and bush then in leaf. They were
+of the box elder, wild gooseberry, and buck bush or snow berry. Visited
+the spring where Mr. Kuhn's family obtained their water; a beautiful
+place, with moss and overhanging trees and bushes, and altogether quite
+homelike. Then to the river where we gathered pebbles of almost every
+color from the sandy shore. We threw, and threw, to cast a stone on the
+Dakota side, and when this childish play was crowned with success,
+after we had made many a splash in the water, we returned to the house
+where Mr. J. Newell waited for us with a spring wagon, and in which,
+Lizzie, Laura and I took seats, and were off to visit the Stone Butte,
+twelve miles west.
+
+Up on the table-land we drove, then down into the valley; and now close
+to the river, and now up and down over the spurrs of the bluff; past
+the colonists' tent, and now Mr. N. has invited a Miss Sibolt and Miss
+Minn to join our maying party.
+
+The bottom land shows a luxuriant growth of grass of last year's
+growing, and acres of wild plum and choke cherry bushes, now white with
+blossoms, and so mingled that I cannot tell them apart. If they bear as
+they blossom, there will be an abundance of both. A few scattered
+trees, mostly burr or scrub oak and elms are left standing in the
+valley; but not a tree on the table-land over which the road ran most
+of the way. The Stone Butte is an abrupt hill, or mound, which stands
+alone on a slightly undulating prairie. It covers a space of about 20
+acres at the base; is 300 feet from base to the broad top; it is
+covered with white stones that at a distance give it the appearance of
+a snow capped mountain, and can be seen for many miles. Some say they
+are a limestone, and when burnt, make a good quality of lime; others
+that they are only a sand-stone. They leave a chalky mark with the
+touch, and to me are a curious formation, and look as though they had
+been boiled up and stirred over from some great mush pot, and fell in a
+shower of confusion just here, as there are no others to be seen but
+those on the butte. Oh! what a story they could tell to geologists;
+tell of ages past when these strange features of this wonderful country
+were formed! But they are all silent to me, and I can only look and
+wonder, and turn over and look under for some poor Indian's hidden
+treasure, but all we found were pieces of petrified wood and bone, a
+moss agate, and a little Indian dart. Lizzie found a species of
+dandelion, the only flower found on the butte, and gave it to me, for I
+felt quite lost without a dear old dandelion in my hand on my May day,
+and which never failed me before. I have termed them "Earth's Stars,"
+for they will peep through the grassy sod whenever the clouds will
+allow. It is the same in color, but single, and the leaves different.
+
+We called and hallooed, ah echo coming back to us from, we did not know
+where; surely not from Raymond's buttes, which we can see quite
+distinctly, though they are thirty-five miles away. Maybe 'twas a war
+whoop from a Sioux brave hid among the bluffs, almost four miles to the
+north, and we took it for an echo to our own voice. The view obtained
+from this elevated point was grand.
+
+A wide stretch of rolling prairie, with the Keya Paha river to the
+north. Though the river is but two and one-half miles away, yet the
+water is lost to view, and we look beyond to the great range of bluffs
+extending far east and west along its northern banks, and which belong
+to the Sioux Indian reservation, they are covered with grass, but
+without shrubbery of any kind, yet on their sides a few gray stones or
+rocks can be seen even from here. South of the butte a short distance
+is a small stream called Holt Creek. Near it we can see two "claim
+takers" preparing their homes; aside from these but two other houses, a
+plowman, and some cattle are the only signs of life. Mr. N. tells me
+the butte is on the claim taken by Mr. Tiffiny, and Messrs. Fuller's
+and Wood's and others of the colony are near. After all the
+sight-seeing and gathering is done, I sit me down on a rock all alone,
+to have a quiet think all to myself. Do you wonder, reader, that I feel
+lonely and homesick, amid scenes so strange and new? Wonder will our
+many friends of the years agone think of me and keep the day for me in
+places where, with them, I have gathered the wild flowers and leaves of
+spring?
+
+But Mr. N. comes up and interrupts me with: "Do you know, Miss Fulton,
+your keeping a May-day seems so strange to me? Do not think our western
+girls would think of such a thing!"
+
+"Since you wonder at it, I will tell you, very briefly, my story. It
+was instituted by mere accident by me in 1871, and I have kept the 15th
+of May of every year since then in nature's untrained gardens,
+gathering of all the different flowers and leaves that are in bloom, or
+have unfolded, and note the difference in the seasons, and also the
+difference in the years to me.
+
+No happier girl ever sang a song than did I on my first May-day; and
+the woodland was never more beautiful, dressed in the bright robes of
+an early spring. Every tree in full leaf, every wild flower of spring
+in bloom, and I could not but gather of all--even the tiniest.
+
+The next 15th of May, I, by mere happening, went to the woods, and
+remembering it was the anniversary of my accidental maying of the
+previous year, I stopped to gather as before; but the flowers were not
+so beautiful, nor the leaves so large. Then, too, I was very sad over
+the serious illness of a loved sister.
+
+I cannot tell of all the years, but in '74 I searched for May flowers
+with tear-dimmed eyes--sister May was dead, and everywhere it was
+desolate.
+
+'75. "A belated snow cloud shook to the ground" a few flakes, and we
+gathered only sticks for bouquets, with buds scarcely swollen.
+
+In '81, I climbed Point McCoy near Bellefont, Pa., a peak of the Muncy
+mountains and a range of the Alleghanys, and looked for miles, and
+miles away, over mountains and vales, and gathered of flowers that
+almost painted the mountain side, they were so plentiful and bright.
+
+Last year I gathered the flowers of home with my own dear mother, and
+shared them with May, by laying them on her grave.
+
+To-day, all things have been entirely new and strange; but while I
+celebrate it on the wild boundless plains of Nebraska, yet almost
+untouched by the hand of man, dear father and mother are visiting the
+favorite mossy log, the spring in the wood, and the moss covered rocks
+where we children played at "house-keeping," and in my name, will
+gather and put to press leaves and flowers for me. Ah! yes! and are so
+lonely thinking of their daughter so far away.
+
+The sweetest flower gathered in all the years was Myrtle--sister
+Maggie's oldest child--who came to me for a May-flower in '76.
+
+But while the flowers bloomed for my gathering in '81, the grass was
+growing green upon her grave. And I know sister will not forget to
+gather and place on the sacred mound, "Auntie Pet's" tribute of love.
+
+Thus it is with a mingling of pleasures and pains, of smiles and tears
+that I am queen of my maying, with no brighter eyes to usurp my crown,
+for it is all my own day and of all the days of the year the dearest to
+me.
+
+"I think, Mr. Newell, we can live _good_ lives and yet not make the
+_most_ of life; our lives need crowding with much that is good and
+useful; and this is only the crowding in of a day that is very good and
+useful to me. For on this day I retrospect the past, and think of the
+hopes that bloomed and faded with the flowers of other years, and
+prospect the future, and wonder what will the harvest be that is now
+budding with the leaves for me and which I alone must garner."
+
+After a last look at the wide, wide country, that in a few years will
+be fully occupied with the busy children of earth, we left "Stone
+Butte," carrying from its stony, grassy sides and top many curious
+mementos of our May-day in Nebraska.
+
+Then I went farther north-west to visit the home of a "squaw man"--the
+term used for Indians who cannot endure the torture of the sun dance,
+and also white men that marry Indian maidens. On our way we passed a
+neatly built sod house, in which two young men lived who had lately
+come from Delaware, and were engaged in stock-raising, and enjoyed the
+life because they were doing well, as one of them remarked to Mr. N. I
+tell these little things that those who do not already know, may
+understand how Nebraska is populated with people from everywhere.
+
+Soon we halted at the noble (?) white man's door, and all but Lizzie
+ventured in, and by way of excuse asked for a drink or _minnie_ in
+the Sioux language. "Mr. Squaw" was not at home, and "Mrs. Squaw," poor
+woman, acted as though she would like to hide from us, but without a
+word handed us a dipper of water from which we very lightly sipped, and
+then turned her back to us, and gave her entire attention to a bright,
+pretty babe which she held closely in her arms, and wrapped about it a
+new shawl which hung about her own shoulders. The children were bright
+and pretty, with brown, curly hair, and no one would guess there was a
+drop of Indian blood in their veins. But the mother is only a
+half-breed, as her father was a Frenchman. Yet in features, at least,
+the Indian largely predominates. Large powerful frame, dusky
+complexion, thin straight hair neatly braided into two jet black
+braids, while the indispensable brass ear drops dangled from her ears.
+Her dress was a calico wrapper of no mean color or make-up. We could
+not learn much of the expression of her countenance, as she kept her
+face turned from us, and we did not wish to be rude. But standing thus
+she gave us a good opportunity to take a survey of their _tepee_.
+The house was of sod with mother earth floors, and was divided into two
+apartments by calico curtains. The first was the kitchen with stove,
+table, benches, and shelves for a cupboard. The room contained a bed
+covered with blankets, which with a bench was all that was to be seen
+except the walls, and they looked like a sort of harness shop. The
+furniture was all of home make, but there was an air of order and
+neatness I had not expected.
+
+The woman had been preparing kinnikinic tobacco for her white chief to
+smoke. It is made by scraping the bark from the red willow, then
+drying, and usually mixing with an equal quantity of natural leaf
+tobacco, and is said to make "pleasant smoking." Ah, well! I thought,
+it is only squaws that will go to so much pains to supply their liege
+lords with tobacco. She can, but will not speak English, as her husband
+laughs at her awkward attempts. So not a word could we draw from her.
+She answered our "good bye," with a nod of the head and a motion of the
+lips. I know she was glad when the "pale faces" were gone, and we left
+feeling so sorry for her and indignant, all agreeing that any man who
+would marry a squaw is not worthy of even a squaw's love and labor;
+labor is what they expect and demand of them, and as a rule, the squaw
+is the better of the two. Their husbands are held in great favor by
+those of their own tribe, and they generally occupy the land allowed by
+the government to every Indian, male or female, but which the Indians
+are slow to avail themselves of. They receive blankets and clothing
+every spring and fall, meat every ten days, rations of sugar, rice,
+coffee, tobacco, bread and flour every week.
+
+Indians are not considered as citizens of the United States, and have
+no part in our law-making, yet are controlled by them. They are kept as
+Uncle Sam's unruly subjects, unfit for any kind of service to him. Why
+not give them whereon to place their feet on an equal footing with the
+white children and made to work or starve; "to sink or swim; live or
+die; survive or perish?" What a noble motto that would be for them to
+adopt!
+
+We then turn for our homeward trip, a distance of fifteen miles, but no
+one stops to count miles here, where roads could not be better.
+
+When within six miles of Mr. Kuhn's, we stopped by invitation given in
+the morning, and took tea with Mrs. W., who received us with: "You
+don't know how much good it does me to have you ladies come!" Then led
+the way into her sod house, saying, "I wish we had our new house built,
+so we could entertain you better." But her house was more interesting
+to us with its floorless kitchen, and room covered with a neat rag
+carpet underlaid with straw. The room was separated from the kitchen by
+being a step higher, and two posts where the door would have been had
+the partition been finished.
+
+The beds and chairs were of home manufacture, but the chairs were
+cushioned, and the beds neatly arranged with embroidered shams, and
+looked so comfortable that while the rest of the party prospected
+without, I asked to lie down and rest, and was soon growing drowsy with
+my comfortable position when Mrs. W. roused me with: "I cannot spare
+your company long enough for you to go to sleep. No one knows how I
+long for company; indeed, my very soul grows hungry at times for
+society."
+
+Poor woman! she looked every word she spoke, and my heart went right
+out to her in pity, and I asked her to tell us her experience.
+
+I will quote her words and tell her story, as it is the language and
+experience of many who come out from homes of comfort, surrounded by
+friends, to build up and regain their lost fortunes in the West. Mrs.
+W's. appearance was that of a lady of refinement, and had once known
+the comforts and luxuries of a good home in the East. But misfortunes
+overtook them, and they came to the West to regain what they had lost.
+Had settled there about three years before and engaged in stock
+raising. The first year the winter was long and severe, and many of
+their cattle died; but were more successful the succeeding years, and
+during the coming summer were ready to build a new house, not of sod,
+but of lumber.
+
+"We had been thinking of leaving this country, but this colony settling
+here will help it so much, and now we will stay."
+
+Her books of poems were piled up against the plastered wall, showing
+she had a taste for the beautiful.
+
+After a very pleasant couple of hours we bade her good-bye, and made
+our last start for home. The only flowers found on the way were the
+buffalo beans and a couple of clusters of white flowers that looked
+like daisies, but are almost stemless. On our way we drove over a
+prairie dog town, frightening the little barkers into their underground
+homes.
+
+Here and there a doggie sentinel kept his position on the roof of his
+house which is only a little mound, barking with a fine squeaky bark to
+frighten us away and warn others to keep inside; but did we but turn
+toward him and wink, he wasn't there any more.
+
+Stopped for a few moments at the colony tent and found only about six
+of the family at home, including a gentleman from New Jersey who had
+joined them.
+
+The day had been almost cloudless and pleasantly warm, and as we
+finished our journey it was made thrice beautiful by the setting sun,
+suggesting the crowning thought: will I have another May-day, and
+where?
+
+Wednesday was pleasant, and I spent it writing letters and sending to
+many friends pressed leaves and flowers and my maying in Nebraska.
+
+The remainder of the week was bright; but showery. "Wiggins" was kept
+hanging on a tree in the door yard, to be consulted with about storms,
+and he generally predicted one, and a shower would come. We did so want
+the rain to cease long enough for the river to fall that we might cross
+over on horse-back to the other side and take a ramble over the bluffs
+of Dakota, and perhaps get a sight of a Sioux. As it kept so wet the
+colonists did not pitch their tents, and Mr. Kuhn's house was well
+filled with weather stayed emigrants.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, Mrs. Taylor, and Will came Tuesday. They had not
+come to any stopping place when darkness settled upon them Saturday
+night and the ladies slept in the buggy, and men under the wagon. When
+daylight came they found they were not far from the first house along
+the way where they spent Sunday. Monday they went to the Niobrara river
+and stopped at the little house at the bridge; and Tuesday finished the
+journey. Their faces were burnt with the sun and wind; but the ladies
+dosed them with sweet cream, which acted admirably. Mr. Taylor returned
+his horses to their former owner, bought a team of oxen, and left
+Stuart on Monday, but over-fed them, and was all the week coming with
+sick oxen. Mr. Barnwell's oxen stampeded one night and were not found
+for over a week. Such were the trials of a few of the N.M.A.C.
+
+Perhaps you can learn from their experiences. I have already learned
+that, if possible, it is best to have your home selected, and a shelter
+prepared, and then bring your family and household goods. Bring what
+you really need, rather than dispose of it at a sacrifice. Do not
+expect to, anywhere, find a land of perpetual sunshine or a country
+just the same as the one you left. Do not leave Pa. expecting to find
+the same old "Keystone" in Nebraska; were it just the same you would
+not come. Expect disappointments and trials, and do not be discouraged
+when they come, and wish yourself "back to the good old home." Adopt
+for your motto, "What _others_ have done _I_ can do." Allow me to give
+you Mr. and Mrs. K.'s story; it will tell you more than any of the
+colonists can ever tell, as they have lived through the disadvantages
+of the first opening of this country. Mr. K. says: "April of '79 I came
+to this country to look up a home where I could have good cattle range.
+When we came to this spot we liked it and laid some logs crosswise to
+look like a foundation and mark the spot. Went further west, but
+returned and pitched our tent; and in a week, with the help of a young
+man who accompanied us, the kitchen part of our house was under roof.
+While we worked at the house Mrs. K. and our two girls made garden. We
+then returned thirty-five miles for our goods and stock, and came back
+in May to find the garden growing nicely. Brought a two months' supply
+of groceries with us, as there was no town nearer than Keya Paha,
+thirty miles east at the mouth of the river; there in fact, was about
+the nearest house.
+
+"Ours was the first house on the south side of the river, and I soon
+had word sent me by Spotted Tail, Chief of the Sioux, to get off his
+reservation. I told the bearer of his message to tell Mr. Spotted Tail,
+that I was not on his land but in Nebraska, and on surveyed land; so to
+come ahead. But was never disturbed in any way by the Indians, whose
+reservation lay just across the river. They often come, a number
+together, and want to trade clothing and blankets furnished them by the
+government, giving a blanket for a mere trinket or few pounds of meat,
+and would exchange a pony for a couple quarts of whisky. But it is
+worth more than a pony to put whisky into their hands, as it is
+strictly prohibited, and severely punished by law, as it puts them
+right on the war-path.
+
+"The next winter a mail route was established, and our house was made
+Burton post-office, afterwards changed to Brewer. It was carried from
+Keya Paha here and on to the Rose Bud agency twice a week. After a time
+it was dropped, but resumed again, and now goes west to Valentine, a
+distance of about sixty miles.
+
+"The nearest church and school was at Keya Paha. Now we have a school
+house three miles away, where they also have preaching, the minister
+(M.E.) coming from Keya Paha."
+
+Mrs. K. who is brave as woman can be, and knows well the use of
+firearms, says: "I have stayed for a week at a time with only Mr. K.'s
+father, who is blind and quite feeble, for company. Had only the lower
+part of our windows in then, and never lock our doors. Have given many
+a meal to the Indians, who go off with a "thank you," or a grunt of
+satisfaction. They do not always ask for a meal, but I generally give
+them something to eat as our cattle swim the river and graze on
+reservation lands. Anyway, kindness is never lost. My two daughters
+have gone alone to Keya Paha often. I have made the trip without
+meeting a soul on the way.
+
+"The latch string of our door has always hung out to every one. The
+Indians would be more apt to disturb us if they thought we were afraid
+of them."
+
+It was a real novelty and carried me back to my grandmother's days, to
+"pull the string and hear the latch fly up" on their kitchen door.
+
+Their house, a double log, is built at the foot of the bluff and about
+seventy rods from the river, and is surrounded by quite a grove of burr
+oak and other trees. They came with twelve head of cattle and now have
+over eighty, which could command a good price did they wish to sell.
+
+Thus, with sunshine and showers the week passes quickly enough, and
+brought again the Sabbath bright and clear, but windy. A number of us
+took a walk one and one-half miles up the valley to the colony tent;
+went by way of a large oak tree, in the branches of which the body of
+an Indian chief had been laid to rest more than four years ago. From
+the bleached bones and pieces of clothing and blanket that were yet
+strewn about beneath the tree, it was evident he had been of powerful
+frame, and had been dressed in a coat much the same as a soldier's
+dress coat, with the usual decoration of brass buttons. Wrapped in his
+blanket and buffalo robe, he had been tied with thongs to the lower
+limbs, which were so low that the wolves had torn the body down.
+
+When we reached the tent under which they had expected to hold their
+meetings and Sabbath-school, we found it, like many of their well-meant
+plans, now flat on the ground. It had come down amid the rain and wind
+of last night on the sleepers, and we found the tenters busy with
+needles trying to get it in order for pitching. None busier prodding
+their finger ends than was Mr. Clark.
+
+"What have you been doing all this time, Mr. C.?" I asked.
+
+"What have I been doing? Why it has just kept me busy to keep from
+drowning, blowing away, freezing, and starving to death. It is about
+all a man can attend to at one time. Haven't been idling any time away,
+I can tell you."
+
+We felt sorry for the troubles of the poor men, but learned this lesson
+from their experience--never buy a tent so old and rotten that it won't
+hold to the fastenings, to go out on the prairies of Nebraska with; it
+takes good strong material to stand the wind.
+
+In the afternoon we all went up on to the table-land to see the
+prairies burn. A great sheet of flame sweeping over the prairie is
+indeed a grand sight, but rather sad to see what was the tall waving
+grass of last year go up in a blaze and cloud of smoke only to leave
+great patches of blackened earth. Yet it is soon brightened by the new
+growth of grass which could not show itself for so long if the old was
+not burnt.
+
+Some say it is necessary to burn the old grass off, and at the same
+time destroy myriads of grasshoppers and insects of a destructive
+nature, and also give the rattlesnake a scorching. While others say,
+burning year after year is hurtful to the soil, and burns out the grass
+roots; also that decayed vegetation is better than ashes for a sandy
+soil.
+
+These fires have been a great hindrance to the growth of forest trees.
+Fire-brakes are made by plowing a number of furrows, which is often
+planted in corn or potatoes. I fancy I would have a good wide potato
+patch all round my farm if I had one, and never allow fire on it. To
+prevent being caught in a prairie fire, one should always carry a
+supply of matches. If a fire is seen coming, start a fire which of
+course will burn from you, and in a few minutes after the fire has
+passed over the ground, it can be walked over, and you soon have a
+cleared spot, where the fire cannot reach you.
+
+_Monday, 21st._ Bright and pleasant, and Mr. K. finishes his corn
+planting.
+
+
+A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY IN WHICH THE COLONY LOCATED.
+
+As this is to be my last day here, I must tell you all there is yet to
+be told of this country. There are so many left behind that will be
+interested in knowing all about the country their friends have gone to,
+so I will try to be very explicit, and state clearly all I have learned
+and seen of it. Allow me to begin with the great range of bluffs that
+closely follow the north side of the river. We can only see their
+broken, irregular, steep, and sloping sides, now green with grass, on
+which cattle are grazing--that swim the river to pasture off the "Soo"
+(as Sioux is pronounced) lands. The reservation is very large, and as
+the agency is far west of this, they do not occupy this part much, only
+to now and then take a stroll over it.
+
+The difference between a hill and a bluff is, that a bluff is only half
+a hill, or hill only on one side. The ground rises to a height, and
+then maintains that height for miles and miles, which is called
+table-land. Then comes the Keya Paha river, which here is the dividing
+line between Dakota and Nebraska. It is 125 miles long. At its mouth,
+where it empties into the Niobrara, it is 165 feet wide. Here,
+thirty-five miles north-west, it is about 75 feet wide, and 6 feet
+deep. The water flows swiftly over its sandy bed, but Mr. K. says
+"there is rock bottom here." The sand is very white and clean, and the
+water is clear and pleasant to the taste.
+
+The banks are fringed with bushes, principally willow. The valley on
+the south side is from one-fourth to one and one half-miles wide, and
+from the growth of grass and bushes would think the soil is quite rich.
+The timber is pine, burr oak, and cottonwood principally, while there
+are a few cedar, elm, ash, box elder and basswood to be found. The oak,
+elm, and box elder are about all I have seen, as the timber is hid in
+the canyons. Scarcely a tree to be seen on the table-lands. Wild plums,
+choke cherries, and grapes are the only fruits of the country. No one
+has yet attempted fruit culture. The plums are much the same in size
+and quality as our cultivated plums. They grow on tall bushes, instead
+of trees, and are so interwoven with the cherry bushes, and in blossom
+so much alike, I cannot tell plum from cherry bush. They both grow in
+great patches along the valley, and form a support for the grape vines
+that grow abundantly, which are much the same as the "chicken grapes"
+of Pennsylvania. I must not over-look the dwarf or sand-hill cherry,
+which, however, would not be a hard matter, were it not for the little
+white blossoms that cover the crooked little sticks, generally about a
+foot in height, that come up and spread in every direction. It is not
+choice of its bed, but seems to prefer sandy soil. Have been told they
+are pleasant to the taste and refreshing.
+
+Then comes the wild gooseberry, which is used, but the wild black
+currants are not gathered. Both grow abundantly as does also the
+snowberry, the same we cultivate for garden shrubbery. Wild hops are
+starting up every where, among the bushes and ready to climb; are said
+to be equally as good as the poled hops of home.
+
+"Beautiful wild flowers will be plenty here in a couple of weeks," Mrs.
+K. says, but I cannot wait to see them. The most abundant, now, is the
+buffalo bean, of which I have before spoken, also called ground plum,
+and prairie clover: plum from the shape of the pod it bears in
+clusters, often beautifully shaded with red, and prairie clover from
+the flower, that resembles a large clover head in shape, and often in
+color, shading from a dark violet to a pale pink, growing in clusters,
+and blooming so freely, it makes a very pretty prairie flower. It
+belongs to the pulse order, and the beans it bears can be cooked as
+ordinary beans and eaten--if at starvation point. Of the other flowers
+gathered mention was made on my May-day.
+
+Mr. K. has a number of good springs of water on his farm, and it is
+easily obtained on the table-land. It cannot be termed soft water, yet
+not very hard.
+
+About one-half of the land I am told is good tillable land, the other
+half too sandy for anything but pasture lands. Soil is from eighteen
+inches to two feet deep.
+
+I will here quote some of the objections to the country offered by
+those who were not pleased. Time only can tell how correct they are.
+"It is too far north. Will never be a general farming or fruit growing
+country. Summer season will be too short for corn to ripen. Too spotted
+with sand hills to ever be thickly settled. Afraid of drouth. Too far
+from railroad and market, and don't think it will have a railroad
+nearer soon. Those Sioux are not pleasant neighbors. Winters will be
+long and cold." But all agree that it is a healthy country, and free
+from malaria. Others say, "Beautiful country. Not as cold as in
+Pennsylvania. Of course we can raise fruit; where wild fruit will grow
+tame fruit can be cultivated. Those sand hills are just what we want;
+no one will take them, and while our cattle are grazing on them, we
+will cultivate our farms." We feel like quoting a copy often set for us
+to scribble over when a little girl at school, with only a little
+alteration. "Many men of many minds, many lands of many kinds"--to
+scatter over--and away some have gone, seeking homes elsewhere.
+
+Those who have remained are getting breaking done, and making garden
+and planting sod corn and potatoes, which with broom corn is about all
+they can raise on new ground the first summer. Next will come the
+building of their log and sod shanties, and setting out of their timber
+culture, which is done by plowing ten acres of ground and sticking in
+cuttings from the cottonwood, which grows readily and rapidly.
+
+There are a few people scattered over the country who have engaged in
+stock raising, but have done little farming and improving. So you see
+it is almost untouched, and not yet tested as to what it will be as a
+general farming country. Years of labor and trials of these new-comers
+will tell the story of its worth.
+
+I sincerely hope it will prove to be all that is good for their sake! I
+hide myself away from the buzz and hum of voices below, in the quiet of
+an upper room that I may tell you these things which have been so
+interesting to me to learn, and hope they may be interesting to read.
+
+But here comes Lizzie saying, "Why, Sims, you look like a witch hiding
+away up here; do come down." And I go and take a walk with Mrs. K. down
+to see their cattle corral. The name of corral was so foreign I was
+anxious to know all about it. It is a square enclosure built of heavy
+poles, with sheds on the north and west sides with straw or grass roof
+for shelter, and is all the protection from the cold the cattle have
+during the winter. Only the milk cows are corraled during the summer
+nights. A little log stable for the horses completes the corral, while
+of course hay and straw are stacked near. Then she took me to see a
+dugout in the side of a hill, in a sheltered ravine, or draw, and
+surrounded by trees. It is not a genuine dugout, but enough of the real
+to be highly interesting to me. It was occupied by a middle-aged man
+who is Mr. K.'s partner in the stock business, and a French boy, their
+herder. The man was intelligent, and looked altogether out of place as
+he sat there in the gloom of the one little room, lighted only by a
+half window and the open door, and, too, he was suffering from asthma.
+I asked: "Do you not find this a poor house for an asthmatic?"
+
+"No, I do not find that it has that effect; I am as well here as I was
+before I came west."
+
+The room was about 10x12, and 6 feet high. The front of the house and
+part of the roof was built of logs and poles, and the rest was made
+when God made the hill. They had only made the cavity in which they
+lived, floor enough for the pole bed to stand on.
+
+To me it seemed too lonely for any enjoyment except solitude--so far
+removed from the busy throngs of the world. But the greater part of the
+stockman's time is spent in out-door life, and their homes are only
+retreats for the night.
+
+We then climbed the hill that I might have a last view of sunset on the
+Keya Paha. I cannot tell you of its beauty, as I gaze in admiration and
+wonder, for sun, moon, and stars, have all left their natural course,
+or else I am turned all wrong.
+
+_Tuesday._ Another pleasant day. Mrs. K., whom I have learned to
+regard as a dear friend, and I, take our last walk and talk together,
+going first to the grave of a granddaughter on the hill, enclosed with
+a railing and protected from the prairie wolves by pieces of iron. Oh!
+I thought, as I watched the tears course down Mrs. K's. cheek as she
+talked of her "darling," there is many a sacred spot unmarked by marble
+monument on these great broad plains of Nebraska. "You see there is no
+doctor nearer than Keya Paha, and by the time we got him here he could
+do her no good." Another disadvantage early settlers labor under.
+
+Then to the river that I might see it flow for the last time, and
+gather sand and pebbles of almost every color that mingle with it. I
+felt it was my last goodbye to this country and I wished to carry as
+much of it away in my satchel and in memory as possible.
+
+We then returned to the house, and soon Mr. Newell who was going to
+Stuart, came, and with whom I had made sure of a passage back. Mrs. K.
+and all insisted my stay was not near long enough, but letters had been
+forwarded to me from Stuart from brother C. asking me to join him. And
+Miss Cody, with whom I had been corresponding for some time, insisted
+on my being with her soon; so I was anxious to be on my way, and
+improved the first opportunity to be off. So, chasing Lizzie for a
+kiss, who declared, "I cannot say good-bye to Sims," and bidding them
+all a last farewell, with much surface merriment to hide sadness, and
+soon the little group of friends were left behind.
+
+I wonder did they see through my assuming and know how sorry I was to
+part from them?--Mrs. K., who had been so kind, and the colony people
+all? I felt I had an interest in the battle that had already begun with
+them. Had I not anticipated a share of the battle and also of the
+spoils when I thought of being one with them. I did feel so sorry that
+the location was such that the majority had not been pleased, and our
+good plans could not be carried out.
+
+It was not supposed as night after night the hall was crowded with
+eager anxious ones, that all would reach the land of promise. But even
+had those who come been settled together there would have been quite a
+nice settlement of people.
+
+The territory being so spotted with sand hills was the great hindrance
+to a body of people settling down as the colony had expected to, all
+together as one settlement. One cannot tell, to look over it, just
+where the sandy spots are, as it is all covered with grass. They are
+only a slight raise in the ground and are all sizes, from one to many
+acres.
+
+One-half section would be good claimable land, and the other half no
+good. In some places I can see the sand in the road that drifts off the
+unbroken ground. We stopped for dinner at Mr. Newell's brother's, whose
+wife is a daughter of Mr. Kuhn's, and then the final start is made for
+the Niobrara. The country looks so different to me now as I return over
+the same road behind horses, and the sun is bright and warm. The
+tenters have gone to building log houses, and there are now four houses
+to be seen along the way. Am told most of the land is taken.
+
+We pass close to one of the houses, where the husband is plowing and
+the wife dropping seed corn; and we stop for a few minutes, that I may
+learn one way of planting sod corn. The dropper walks after the plow
+and drops the corn close to the edge of the furrow, and it comes up
+between the edges of the sod. Another way is to cut a hole in the sod
+with an ax, and drop the corn in the hole, and step on it while you
+plant the next hill--I mean hole--of corn.
+
+One little, lone, oak tree was all the tree seen along the road, and
+not a stone. I really miss the jolting of the stones of Pennsylvania
+roads. But strewed all along are pebbles, and in places perfect beds of
+them. I cannot keep my eyes off the ground for looking at them, and, at
+last, to satisfy my wishing for "a lot of those pretty pebbles to carry
+home," Mr. N. stops, and we both alight and try who can find the
+prettiest. As I gather, I cannot but wonder how God put these pebbles
+away up here!
+
+Reader, if all this prairie land was waters, it would make a good sized
+sea, not a storm tossed sea but water in rolling waves. It looks as
+though it had been the bed of a body of water, and the water leaked out
+or ran down the Niobrara river, cutting out the canyons as it went, and
+now the sea has all gone to grass.
+
+Mr. N. drives close to the edge of an irregular series of canyons that
+I may have a better view.
+
+"I do wish you would tell me, Mr. N., how these canyons have been
+made?"
+
+"Why, by the action of the wind and water."
+
+"Yes, I suppose; but looks more like the work of an immense
+scoop-shovel, and all done in the dark; they are so irregular in shape,
+size, and depth."
+
+Most that I see on this side of the river are dry, grassy, and barren
+of tree or bush, while off on the other side, can be seen many well
+filled with burr oak, pine, and cedar.
+
+Views such as I have had from the Stone Butte, along the Keya Paha, on
+the broad plains, and now of the valley of the Niobrara well repays me
+for all my long rides, and sets my mind in a perfect query of how and
+when was all this wonderful work done? I hope I shall be permitted to
+some day come again, and if I cannot get over the ground any other way,
+I will take another ride behind oxen.
+
+Several years ago these canyons afforded good hiding places for
+stray(?) ponies and horses that strayed from their owners by the
+maneuvering of "Doc." Middleton, and his gang of "pony boys," as those
+who steal or run off horses from the Indians are called. But they did
+not confine themselves to Indian ponies alone, and horses and cattle
+were stolen without personal regard for the owner.
+
+But their leader has been safe in the penitentiary at Lincoln for some
+time, and the gang in part disbanded; yet depredations are still
+committed by them, which has its effect upon some of the colonists, who
+feel that they do not care to settle where they would be apt to lose
+their horses so unceremoniously. A one-armed traveler, who took shelter
+from the storm with a sick wife on the island, had one of his horses
+stolen last week, which is causing a good deal of indignation. Their
+favorite rendezvous before the band was broken was at "Morrison's
+bridge," where we spent the rainy Sabbath. Oh, dear! would I have laid
+me down so peacefully to sleep on the table that night had I known more
+of the history of the little house and the dark canyons about?
+
+But the house has another keeper, and nothing remains but the story of
+other days to intimidate us now, and we found it neat and clean, and
+quite inviting after our long ride.
+
+After supper I went out to take a good look at the Niobrara river, or
+_Running Water_. Boiling and surging, its muddy waves hurried by,
+as though it was over anxious to reach the Missouri, into which it
+empties. It has its source in Wyoming, and is 460 miles long. Where it
+enters the state, it is a clear, sparkling stream, only 10 feet wide;
+but by the time it gathers and rushes over so much sand, which it keeps
+in a constant stir, changing its sand bars every few hours, it loses
+its clearness, and at this point is about 165 feet wide. Like the
+Missouri river, its banks are almost entirely of a dark sand, without a
+pebble. So I gathered sand again, and after quite a search, found a
+couple of little stones, same color of the sand, and these I put in my
+satchel to be carried to Pennsylvania, to help recall this sunset
+picture on the "Running Water," and, for a more substantial lean for
+memory I go with Mr. N. on to the island to look for a diamond willow
+stick to carry home to father for a cane. The island is almost covered
+with these tall willow bushes. The bridge was built about four years
+ago. The piers are heavy logs pounded deep into the sand of the river
+bed, and it is planked with logs, and bushes and sod. It has passed
+heavy freight trains bound for the Indian Agency and the Black Hills,
+and what a mingling of emigrants from every direction have paid their
+toll and crossed over to find new homes beyond! Three wagons pass by
+this evening, and one of the men stopped to buy milk from Mrs. Slack
+"to make turn-over cake;" and made enquiry, saying:
+
+"Where is that colony from Pennsylvania located? We would like to get
+near it."
+
+It is quite a compliment to the colony that so many come so far to
+settle near them; but has been quite a hindrance. Long before the
+colony arrived, people were gathering in and occupying the best of the
+land, and thus scattering the little band of colonists. Indeed the fame
+of the colony will people this country by many times the number of
+actual settlers it itself will bring.
+
+Mrs. S. insists that I "give her some music on the organ," and I
+attempt "Home sweet, home," but my voice fails me, and I sing "Sweet
+hour of prayer," as more befitting. Home for me is not on the Niobrara,
+and in early morn we leave it to flow on just as before, and we go on
+toward Stuart, casting back good-bye glances at its strangely beautiful
+valley. The bluffs hug the river so close that the valley is not wide,
+but the canyons that cut into the bluffs help to make it quite an
+interesting picture.
+
+There is not much more to be told about the country on the south side
+of the river. It is not sought after by the claim-hunters as the land
+on the north is. A few new houses can be seen, showing that a few are
+persuaded to test it.
+
+The grass is showing green, and where it was burnt off on the north
+side of the valley, and was only black, barren patches a little more
+than a week ago, now are bright and green. A few new flowers have
+sprung up by the way-side. The sweetest in fragrance is what they call
+the wild onion. The root is the shape and taste of an onion, and also
+the stem when bruised has quite an onion smell; but the tiny, pale pink
+flower reminds me of the old May pinks for fragrance. Another tiny
+flower is very much like mother's treasured pink oxalis; but is only
+the bloom of wood sorrel. It opens in morning and closes at evening,
+and acts so much like the oxalis, I could scarcely be persuaded it was
+not; but the leaves convinced me.
+
+I think the setting sun of Nebraska must impart some of its rays to the
+flowers, that give them a different tinge; and, too, the flowers seem
+to come with the leaves, and bloom so soon after peeping through the
+sod. The pretty blue and white starlike iris was the only flower to be
+found about Stuart when I left.
+
+We have passed a number of emigrant wagons, and--"Oh, horror! Mr.
+Newell, look out for the red-skins!"
+
+"Where, Miss Fulton, where?"
+
+"Why there, on the wagon and about it, and see, they are setting fire
+to the prairie; and oh dear! one of them is coming toward us with some
+sort of a weapon in his hand. Guess I'll wrap this bright red Indian
+blanket around me and perhaps they will take me for a 'Soo' and spare
+me scalp."
+
+Reader I have a mind to say "continued in the next" or "subscribe for
+the Ledger and read the rest," but that would be unkind to leave you in
+suspense, though I fear you are growing sleepy over this the first
+chapter even, and I would like to have some thrilling adventure to wake
+you up.
+
+But the "Look out for the red skins," was in great red letters on a
+prairie schooner, and there they were, men with coats and hats painted
+a bright red, taking their dinner about a fire which the wind is trying
+to carry farther, and one is vigorously stamping it out. Another, a
+mere boy with a stick in his hand, comes to inquire the road to the
+bridge "where you don't have to pay toll?" Poor men, they look as
+though they hadn't ten cents to spare. So ends my adventure with the
+"red skins." But here comes another train of emigrants; ladies
+traveling in a covered carriage, while the horses, cattle, people, and
+all show they come from a land of plenty, and bring a goodly share of
+worldly goods along.
+
+They tell Mr. N. they came from Hall county, Nebraska, where vegetation
+is at least two weeks ahead of this country, but came to take up
+government land. So it is, some go with nothing, while others sell good
+homes and go with a plenty to build up another where they can have the
+land for the claiming of it.
+
+The sun has not been so bright, and the wind is cool and strong, but I
+have been well protected by this thick warm Indian blanket, yet I am
+not sorry when I alight at Mr. Skirvings door and receive a hearty
+welcome, and "just in time for a good dinner."
+
+
+THE COLONISTS' FIRST SUMMER'S WORK AND HARVEST.
+
+It would not do to take the colonists to their homes on the frontier,
+and not tell more of them.
+
+I shall copy from letters received. From a letter received from one
+whom I know had nothing left after reaching there but his pluck and
+energy, I quote:
+
+ "BREWER, P.O. BROWN CO., NEB.,
+
+ "December 23, '83.
+
+ "Our harvest has been good. Every man of the colony is better
+ satisfied than they were last spring, as their crops have done
+ better than they expected. My sod corn yielded 20 bushels (shelled)
+ per acre. Potatoes 120 bushels. Beans 5, and I never raised larger
+ vegetables than we did this summer on sod. On old ground corn 40,
+ wheat 20 to 35, and oats 40 to 60 bushels per acre. After the first
+ year we can raise all kinds of grain. For building a sod house, it
+ costs nothing besides the labor, but for the floor, doors and
+ windows. I built one to do me for the summer, and was surprised at
+ the comfort we took in it; and now have a log house ready for use,
+ a sod barn of two rooms, one for my cow, and the other for the
+ chickens and ducks, a good cave, and a well of good water at eight
+ feet.
+
+ "There are men in the canyons that take out building logs. They
+ charge from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars per forty logs,
+ sixteen and twenty feet long. To have these logs hauled costs two
+ and two and one-half dollars per day, and it takes two days to make
+ the trip. But those who have the time and teams can do their own
+ hauling and get their own logs, as the trees belong to "Uncle Sam."
+
+ "The neighbors all turn out and help at the raising. The timber in
+ the canyons are mostly pine. Our first frost was 24th September,
+ and our first cold weather began last week. A number of the
+ colonists built good frame houses. I have been offered $600.00 for
+ my claims, but I come to stay, and stay I will."
+
+From another:
+
+ "We are all in good health and like our western homes. Yet we have
+ some drawbacks; the worst is the want of society, and fruit. Are
+ going to have a reunion 16 February."
+
+ "BREWER, Jan., 8.
+
+ "You wished to know what we can do in the winter. I have been
+ getting wood, and sitting by the fire. Weather beautiful until 15th
+ December, but the thermometer has said "below zero," ever since
+ Christmas. The lowest was twenty degrees. The land is all taken
+ around here (near the Stone Butte) and we expect in a couple of
+ years to have schools and plenty of neighbors."
+
+Those who located near Stuart and Long Pine, are all doing well, and no
+sickness reported from climating.
+
+I have not heard of one being out of employment. One remarked: "This is
+a good country for the few of us that came."
+
+I believe that the majority of the first party took claims; but the
+little handful of colonists are nothing in number to the settlers that
+have gathered in from everywhere, and occupy the land with them. Of the
+horse thieves before spoken of I would add, that the "vigilantes" have
+been at work among them, hanging a number to the nearest tree, and
+lodging a greater number in jail.
+
+It is to be hoped that these severe measures will be all sufficient to
+rid the country of these outlaws. May the "colonists" dwell in peace
+and prosperity, and may the harvest of the future prove rich in all
+things good!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Over the Sioux City & Pacific R.R. from Valentine to the Missouri
+Valley.--A visit to Ft. Niobrara.
+
+
+I was advised to go to Valentine, the present terminus of the S.C. &
+P.R.R., and also to visit Fort Niobrara only a few miles from
+Valentine, as I would find much that was interesting to write about.
+Long Pine was also spoken of as a point of interest, and as Mr.
+Buchanan, Gen. Pass. Agt. of the road, had so kindly prepared my way by
+sending letters of introduction to Lieut. Davis, quartermaster at the
+Fort, and also to the station agent at Valentine, I felt I would not
+give it up as others advised me to, as Valentine is considered one of
+the wicked places of Nebraska, on account of the cow-boys of that
+neighborhood making it their head-quarters.
+
+I had been so often assured of the respect the cow boys entertain for
+ladies, that I put aside all fears, and left on a freight train, Friday
+evening, May 25th, taking Mrs. Peck, a quiet middle-aged lady with me
+for company. Passenger trains go through Stuart at night, and we
+availed ourselves of the freight caboose in order to see the country by
+daylight. A quiet looking commercial agent, and a "half-breed" who
+busies himself with a book, are the only passengers besides Mrs. Peck
+and I. There is not much to tell of this country. It is one vast plain
+with here a house, and there a house, and here and there a house, and
+that's about all; very little farming done, no trees, no bushes, no
+nothing but prairie.
+
+There, the cars jerk, jerk, jerk, and shake, shake, shake! Must be
+going up grade! Mrs. P. is fat, the agent lean and I am neither; but we
+all jerk, shake and nod. Mrs. P. holds herself to the chair, the agent
+braces himself against the stove, and I--well I just shake and laugh.
+It isn't good manners, I know, but Mrs. P. looks so frightened, and the
+agent so queer, that my facial muscles will twitch; so I hide my face
+and enjoy the fun. There, we are running smooth now. Agent remarks that
+his wife has written him of a terrible cyclone in Kansas City last
+Sunday. Cyclone last Sunday! What if it had passed along the Niobrara
+and upset the little house with all aboard into the river. One don't
+know when to be thankful, do they?
+
+Newport and Bassett are passed, but they are only mere stations, and
+not worthy the name of town. The Indian has left our company for that
+of the train-men, and as Mrs. P.'s husband is a merchant, and she is
+prospecting for a location for a store, she and the agent, who seems
+quite pleasant, find plenty to talk about. There, puffing up grade
+again! and the jerking, nodding and shaking begins. Mrs. P. holds her
+head, the agent tries to look unconcerned, and as though he didn't
+shake one bit, and I just put my head out of the window, and watch the
+country.
+
+Saw three antelope running at a distance; are smaller than deer.
+
+The land is quite level, but we are seldom out of sight of sand-hills
+or bluffs. Country looks better and more settled as we near Long Pine,
+where several of the colonists have located, and I have notified them
+of our coming, and there! I see a couple of them coming to the depot to
+meet us. As the sun has not yet hid behind the "Rockies," we proposed a
+walk to Long Pine creek, not a mile away. The tops of the tallest trees
+that grow along it, tower just enough above the table-land to be seen
+from the cars; and as we did not expect to stop on our return, we made
+haste to see all we could. But by the time we got down to the valley it
+was so dark we could only see enough to make us very much wish to see
+more. So we returned disappointed to the hotel, to wait for the regular
+passenger train, which was not due until about midnight. The evening
+was being pleasantly passed with music and song, when my eyes rested
+upon a couple of pictures that hung on the wall, and despite the
+company about me, I was carried over a bridge of sad thoughts to a home
+where pictures of the same had hung about a little bed, and in fancy I
+am tucking little niece "Myrtle" away for the night, after she has
+repeated her evening prayer to me, and I hear her say:
+
+"Oh! auntie! I forgot to say, "God bless everybody."
+
+The prayer is repeated, good-night kisses given, and "Mollie doll"
+folded close in her arms to go to sleep, too. But the sweet voice is
+silent now, "Mollie" laid away with the sacred playthings, the playful
+hands closer folded, and the pictures look down on me, far, so far from
+home; and I leave the singers to their songs while I think.
+
+To add to my loneliness, Mrs. P. says she is afraid to venture to
+Valentine, and I do not like to insist, lest something might occur, and
+the rest try to persuade me not to go. I had advised Lieut. Davis of my
+coming, and he had written me to telephone him on my arrival at the
+depot, and he would have me conveyed to the Fort immediately.
+
+But better than all, came the thought, "the Lord, in whose care and
+protection I left home, has carried me safe and well this far; cannot I
+trust Him all the way?" My faith is renewed, and I said:
+
+"You do not need to go with me, Mrs. P., I can go alone. The Lord has
+always provided friends for me when I was in need of them, and I know
+He will not forsake me now."
+
+Mrs. P. hesitated, but at last, gathering strength from my confidence,
+says:
+
+"Well, I believe I will go, after all."
+
+"Almost train time," the landlady informs us, and we all go down to the
+depot to meet it. The night is clear and frosty, and the moon just
+rising.
+
+The train stopped for some time, and we talked of colony matters until
+our friends left us, insisting that we should stop on our return, and
+spend Sunday at Long Pine.
+
+I turn my seat, and read the few passengers. Just at my back a fat,
+fatherly looking old gentleman bows his head in sleep. That gentleman
+back of Mrs. P. looks so thoughtful. How attentive that gentleman
+across the aisle is to that aged lady! Suppose she is his dear old
+mother!
+
+"Why there is 'Mr. Agent!' and there--well, I scarcely know what that
+is in the back seat." A bushy head rests against the window, and a pair
+of red shoes swings in the aisle from over the arm of the seat. But
+while I look at the queer picture, and wonder what it is, it spits a
+great splash of tobacco juice into the aisle, and the query is solved,
+it's only a man. Always safe in saying there is a man about when you
+see tobacco juice flying like that. Overalls of reddish brown, coat of
+gray, face to match the overalls in color, and hair to match the coat
+in gray, while a shabby cap crowns the picture that forms our
+background.
+
+Mr. Agent tells the thoughtful man a funny story. The old lady wakes
+up, and the fatherly old gent rouses.
+
+"You ladies belong to the colony from Pennsylvania, do you not?" he
+asked.
+
+"I am a member of the colony," I replied.
+
+"I am glad to have an opportunity to enquire about them; how are they
+getting along?"
+
+I gave him all the information I could, and soon all were conversing as
+lonely travelers will, without waiting for any ceremonial introductions.
+But soon "Ainsworth" is called out, and the agent leaves us with a
+pleasant "good evening" to all. The elderly man proves to be J. Wesley
+Tucker, Receiver at the United States Land office, at Valentine, but
+says it is too rough and bad to take his family there, and tells
+stories of the wild shooting, and of the cow-boy. The thoughtful man is
+Rev. Joseph Herbert, of Union Park Seminary, Chicago, who will spend
+his vacation in preaching at Ainsworth and Valentine, and this is his
+first visit to Valentine, and is the first minister that has been bold
+enough to attempt to hold services there. He asks; "Is the colony
+supplied with a minister? The superintendent of our mission talks of
+sending one to them if they would wish it."
+
+"They have no minister, and are feeling quite lost without preaching,
+as nearly all are members of some church, and almost every denomination
+is represented; but I scarcely know where services could be held; no
+church and no school house nearer than three miles."
+
+"Oh! we hold services in log or sod houses, anywhere we can get the
+people together."
+
+I then spoke of my mission of writing up the history of the colony, and
+their settling, and the country they located in, and why I went to
+Valentine, and remarked:
+
+"I gathered some very interesting history from----"
+
+"Well if you believe all old ---- tells you, you may just believe
+everything," came from the man in the back-ground, who had not ventured
+a word before, and with this he took a seat nearer the rest of us, and
+listened to Mr. T. telling of the country, and of the utter
+recklessness and desperation of the cow-boys; how they shot at random,
+not caring where their bullets flew, and taking especial delight in
+testing the courage of strangers by the "whiz of the bullets about
+their ears."
+
+"Is there any place where I can stop and go back, and not go on to
+Valentine," I asked.
+
+"No, Miss, you are bound for Valentine now;" and added for comfort
+sake, "no danger of you getting shot, _unless_ by _mere accident_. They
+are very respectful to ladies, in fact, are never known to insult a
+lady. Pretty good hearted boys when sober, but when they are on a
+spree, they are as _wild_ as _wild_ can be;" with an ominous shake of
+his head.
+
+"Do you think they will be on a spree when I get there?"
+
+"Can't say, indeed; _hope not_."
+
+"A man came not long ago, and to test his courage or see how high he
+could jump, they shot about his feet and cut bullet holes through his
+hat, and the poor fellow left, not waiting to pick up his overcoat and
+baggage. A woman is carrying a bullet in her arm now where a stray one
+lodged that came through the house.
+
+After this bit of information was delivered, he went into the other car
+to take a smoke. I readily understood it was more for his own amusement
+than ours that he related all this, and that he enjoyed emphasizing the
+most important words. The gentlemen across the aisle handed me his card
+with:
+
+"I go on the same errand that you do, and visit the chaplain of the
+Fort, so do not be alarmed, that gentleman was only trying to test your
+courage."
+
+I read the card: P. D. McAndrews, editor of Storm Lake _Tribune_,
+Storm Lake, Iowa. The minister looked interested, but only remarked:
+
+"I fear no personal harm, the only fear I have is that I may not be
+able to do them as much good as others of more experience could."
+
+I thought if any one needed to have fear, it was he, as his work would
+be among them. Mrs. P. whispered:
+
+"Oh! isn't it awful, are you alarmed?"
+
+"Not as much as I appear to be, the gentleman evidently enjoyed teasing
+us, and I enjoyed seeing him so amused. We will reach there after
+sunrise and go as soon as we can to the Fort; we will not stop to learn
+much of Valentine, I know all I care to now."
+
+The stranger, who by this time I had figured out as a pony boy--I
+could not think what else would give him such a countenance as he
+wore--changed the subject with:
+
+"That man," referring to Judge T., "don't need to say there is no
+alkali along here, I freighted over this very country long before this
+railroad was built, and the alkali water has made the horses sick many
+a time. But I suppose it is wearing out, as the country has changed a
+good bit since then; there wasn't near as much grass growing over these
+sand hills then as there is now."
+
+Then by way of an apology for his appearance, remarked:
+
+"I tell you freighting is hard on a man, to drive day after day through
+all kinds of weather and sleep out at night soon makes a fellow look
+old. I look to be fifty, and I am only thirty-five years old. My folks
+all live in Ohio, and I am the only one from the old home."
+
+Poor man! I thought, is that what gives you such a hardened expression;
+and I have been judging you so harshly.
+
+"The only one from the old home," had a tone of sadness that set me to
+thinking, and I pressed my face close to the window pane, and had a
+good long think all to myself, while the rest dropped off to sleep. Is
+there not another aboard this train who is the only one away from the
+old home? And all alone, too. Yet I feel many dear ones are with me in
+heart, and to-night dear father's voice trembled as he breathed an
+evening benediction upon his children, and invokes the care and
+protection of Him who is God over all upon a daughter, now so far
+beyond the shelter of the dear old home; while a loving mother whispers
+a fervent "amen." By brothers and sisters I am not forgotten while
+remembering their own at the altar, nor by their little ones; and in
+fancy I see them, white robed for bed, sweetly lisping, "God bless
+auntie Pet, and bring her safe home." And ever lifting my own heart in
+prayer for protection and resting entirely upon God's mercy and
+goodness, I go and feel I am not _alone_. Had it not been for my
+faith in the power of prayer, I would not have undertaken this journey;
+but I thought as I looked up at the bright moon, could one of your
+stray beams creep in at mother's window, and tell her where you look
+down upon her daughter to-night, would it be a night of sleep and rest
+to her? I was glad they could rest in blissful ignorance, and I would
+write and tell them all about it when I was safe back. Of course I had
+written of my intended trip, but they did not know the character of
+Valentine, nor did I until I was about ready to start. But I knew Mr.
+Buchanan would not ask me to go where it was not proper I should go. So
+gathering all these comforting thoughts together, I rested, but did not
+care to sleep, for--
+
+ Oh, moon! 'tis rest by far more sweet,
+ To feast upon thy loveliness, than sleep.
+
+Humming Ten thousand (or 1,500) miles away, Home, sweet home, and the
+Lord's Prayer to the same air, I keep myself company.
+
+It was as bright and beautiful as night could be. The broad plains were
+so lit up I could see far away over a rolling prairie and sand-hills
+glistening in the frosty air; while many lakelets made a picture of
+silvery sheen I had never looked upon before. The moon peeped up at me
+from its reflection in their clear waters, and I watched it floating
+along, skipping from lakelet to lakelet, keeping pace alongside as
+though it, too, was going to preach in or write up Valentine, and was
+eager to be there with the rest of us. It was a night too lovely to
+waste in sleep, so I waked every moment of it until the sun came up and
+put the moon and stars out, and lit up the great sandy plains, with a
+greater light that changed the picture to one not so beautiful, but
+more interesting from its plainer view.
+
+It is beyond the power of my pen to paint the picture of this country
+as I saw it in the early morning light, while standing at the rear door
+of the car. Through sand-cuts, over sand-banks, and now over level
+grassy plains. The little rose bushes leafing out, ready to bloom, and
+sticking out through the sandiest beds they could find. Where scarcely
+anything else would think of growing were tiny bushes of sand-cherries,
+white with blossoms. It seemed the picture was unrolled from beneath
+the wheels on a great canvas while we stood still; but the cars fairly
+bounded over the straight, level road until about six o'clock, when
+"Valentine," rings through the car, and Judge Tucker cautioned me to
+"get ready to die," and we land at Valentine. He and Rev. Herbert went
+to breakfast at a restaurant (the only public eating house, meals 50
+cents), and Mr. McAndrew, his mother, Mrs. P., and I went into the
+depot, and lost no time in telephoning to the Fort that there were four
+passengers awaiting the arrival of the ambulance, and then gathered
+about the stove to warm. Finding there was little warmth to be had from
+it, Mrs. P. and I thought we would take a walk about the depot in the
+bright sun. But I soon noticed a number of men gathered about a saloon
+door, and fearing they might take my poke hat for a target, I told Mrs.
+P. I thought it was pleasanter if not warmer inside. I seated myself
+close to that dear old Scotch lady, whom I felt was more of a
+protection to me than a company of soldiers would be. All was quiet at
+first, but as there is no hotel in Valentine, the depot is used as a
+resting place by the cow-boys, and a number of them came in, but all
+quiet and orderly, and only gave us a glance of surprise and wonder.
+Not one bold, impudent stare did we receive from any one of them, and
+soon all fears were removed, and I quietly watched them. One whom I
+would take to be a ranch owner, had lodged in the depot, and came down
+stairs laughing and talking, with an occasional profane word, of the
+fun of the night before. He was a large, red-faced young looking man,
+with an air of ownership and authority; and the boys seemed to go to
+him for their orders, which were given in a brotherly sort of way, and
+some were right off to obey. All wore leather leggings, some trimmed
+with fur; heavy boots, and great spurs clanking; their leather belt of
+revolvers, and dirk, and the stockman's sombrero. Some were rather fine
+looking in features, but all wore an air of reckless daring rather than
+of hardened wickedness. One who threw himself down to sleep on an
+improvised bed on the seats in the waiting room, looked only a mere boy
+in years, rather delicate in features, and showed he had not been long
+at the life he was now leading; and it was evident he had once known a
+better life.
+
+Another, equally as young in years, showed a much more hardened
+expression; yet he, too, looked like a run-away from a good home.
+
+One poor weather-beaten boy came in and passed us without turning his
+head, and I thought him an old gray-headed man, but when I saw his face
+I knew he could not be more than twenty-five. He seemed to be a general
+favorite that was about to leave them, for, "I'm sorry you are going
+away, Jimmie," "You'll be sure to write to us, Jimmie, and let us know
+how you get along down there," and like expressions came from a number.
+I did not hear a profane word or rough expression from anyone,
+excepting the one before spoken of. I watched them closely, trying to
+read them, and thought: "Poor boys! where are your mothers, your
+sisters, your homes?" for theirs is a life that knows no home, and so
+often their life has a violent ending, going out in the darkness of a
+wild misspent life.
+
+As the ambulance would not be there for some time, and I could not
+think of breakfasting at the restaurant, Mrs. P. and I went to a store
+and got some crackers and cheese, on which we breakfasted in the depot.
+Then, tired and worn out from my night of watching, and all fear
+banished, I fell asleep with my head resting on the window-sill; but
+was soon aroused by Rev. Herbert coming in to ask us if we wished to
+walk about and see the town.
+
+The town site is on a level stretch of land, half surrounded by what
+looks to be a beautiful natural wall, broken and picturesque with gray
+rocks and pine trees.
+
+It is a range of high bluffs that at a distance look to be almost
+perpendicular, that follow the north side of the Minnechaduza river, or
+Swift Running water, which flows south-east, and is tributary to the
+Niobrara. The river is so much below the level of the table-land that
+it can not be seen at a distance, so it was only a glimpse we obtained
+of this strange beauty. But for your benefit we give the description of
+it by another whose time was not so limited. "The view on the
+Minnechaduza is as romantic and picturesque as many of the more visited
+sights of our country. Approaching it from the south, when within about
+100 yards of the stream the level plain on which Valentine is built is
+broken by numerous deep ravines with stately pines growing on their
+steep sides. Looking from the point of the bluffs, the stream flowing
+in a serpentine course, and often doubling upon itself, appears a small
+amber colored rivulet. Along the valley, which is about one-half mile
+wide, there are more or less of pine and oak. The stumps speak of a
+time when it was thickly wooded. The opposite banks or bluffs, which
+are more than 100 feet higher than those on the south, are an
+interesting picture. There are just enough trees on them to form a
+pretty landscape without hiding from view the rugged cliffs on which
+they grow. The ravines that cut the banks into sharp bluffs and crags
+are lost to view in their own wanderings."
+
+Valentine, I am told, is the county seat of Cherry county, which was
+but lately organized. Last Christmas there was but one house on the
+town site, but about six weeks ago the railroad was completed from
+Thatcher to this point, and as Thatcher was built right amid the sand
+banks near the Niobrara river, the people living there left their sandy
+homes and came here; and now there is one hardware, one furniture, and
+two general stores; a large store-house for government goods for the
+Sioux Indians, a newspaper, restaurant, and five saloons, a hotel and
+number of houses in course of erection, also the United States land
+office of the Minnechaduza district, that includes the government land
+of Brown, Cherry, and Sioux counties. In all I counted about
+twenty-five houses, and three tents that served as houses. But this is
+not to be the terminus of the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad very
+long, as it, too, is "going west," just where is not known.
+
+About eight o'clock a soldier boy in blue came with the ambulance, and
+returning to the depot for my satchel and ulster, which I had left
+there in the care of no one, but found all safe, our party of four bade
+Rev. Herbert good-bye and left him to his work with our most earnest
+wishes for his success. He had already secured the little restaurant,
+which was kept by respectable people, to hold services in.
+
+From Valentine we could see Frederick's peak, and which looked to be
+but a short distance away. When we had gone about two miles in that
+direction the driver said if we were not in haste to reach the fort he
+would drive out of the way some distance that we might have a better
+view of it; and after going quite a ways, halted on an eminence, and
+then we were yet several miles from it. It is a lone mound or butte
+that rears a queerly capped point high above all other eminences around
+it. At that distance, it looked to be almost too steep to be climbed,
+and crowned with a large rounding rock. I was wishing I could stop over
+Sunday at the fort, as I found my time would be too limited, by even
+extending it to Monday, to get anything like a view, or gather any
+information of the country. But Mrs. P. insisted on returning that
+afternoon rather than to risk her life one night so near the Indians.
+
+The ride was interesting, but very unpleasant from a strong wind that
+was cold and cutting despite the bright sun. I had fancied I would see
+a fort such as they had in "ye olden times"--a block house with
+loop-holes to shoot through at the Indians. But instead I found Fort
+Niobrara more like a pleasant little village of nicely built houses,
+most of them of adobe brick, and arranged on three sides of a square.
+The officers' homes on the south side, all cottage houses, but large,
+handsomely built, and commodious. On the east are public buildings,
+chapel, library, lecture room, hall for balls and entertainments, etc.
+Along the north are the soldiers' buildings; eating, sleeping, and
+reading rooms; also separate drinking and billiard rooms for the
+officers and privates.
+
+The drinking and playing of the privates, at least are under
+restrictions; nothing but beer is allowed them, and betting is
+punished. On this side is the armory, store-houses of government goods,
+a general store, tailor, harness, and various shops. At the rear of the
+buildings are the stables--one for the gray and another for the sorrel
+horses--about one hundred of each, and also about seventy-five mules.
+
+The square is nicely trimmed and laid out in walks and planted in small
+trees, as it is but four years since the post, as it is more properly
+termed, was established. It all looked very pleasant, and I asked the
+driver if, as a rule, the soldiers enjoyed the life. He answered that
+it was a very monotonous life, as it is seldom they are called out to
+duty, and they are only wishing the Indians would give them a chance at
+a skirmish. The privates receive thirteen dollars per month, are
+boarded and kept in clothing. Extra work receives extra pay; for
+driving to the depot once every day, and many days oftener, he received
+fifteen cents per day. Those of the privates who marry and bring their
+wives there--and but few are allowed that privilege--do so with the
+understanding that their wives are expected to cook, wash, or sew for
+the soldiers in return for their own keeping.
+
+After a drive around the square, Mr. McA. and mother alighted at the
+chaplain's, and Mrs. P. and I at Lieutenant G. B. Davis', and were
+kindly received by both Mr. and Mrs. Davis, but the Lieutenant was soon
+called away to engage in a cavalry drill, or sham battle; but Mrs. D.
+entertained us very pleasantly, which was no little task, as I never
+was so dull and stupid as I grew to be after sitting for a short time
+in their cosy parlor. How provoking to be so, when there was so much of
+interest about me, and my time so limited.
+
+Mrs. D. insisted on my lying down and taking some rest, which I gladly
+consented to do, providing they would not allow me to sleep long. I
+quickly fell into a doze, and dreamt the Indians were coming over the
+bluffs to take the fort, and in getting away from them I got right out
+of bed, and was back in the parlor in less than ten minutes.
+
+Mrs. D. then proposed a walk to some of the public buildings; but we
+were driven back by a gust of wind and rain, that swept over the bluffs
+that hem them in on the north-west, carrying with it a cloud of sand
+and dust. The clouds soon passed over, and we started over to see the
+cavalry drill, but again were driven back by the rain, and we watched
+the cavalrymen trooping in, after the battle had been fought, the greys
+in one company, and sorrels in another.
+
+There were only about 200 soldiers at the post. The keeping up of a
+post is a great cost, yet it is a needed expense, as the knowledge of
+the soldiers being so near helps to keep the Indians quiet. Yet I could
+not see what would hinder them from overpowering that little handful of
+soldiers, despite their two gatling guns, that would shoot 1,000
+Indians per minute, if every bullet would count, if they were so
+disposed. But they have learned that such an outbreak would be
+retaliated by other troops, and call down the indignation of their sole
+keeper and support--"Uncle Sam."
+
+We were interested in hearing Lieut. Davis speak in words of highest
+praise of Lieut. Cherry, whose death in 1881 was so untimely and sad,
+as he was soon to bear a highly estimable young lady away from near my
+own home as a bride, whom he met at Washington, D.C., in '79, where he
+spent a portion of a leave of absence granted him in recognition of
+brave and conspicuous services at the battle of the Little Big Horn,
+known as Custer's massacre. He was a graduate of West Point, was a
+brave, intelligent, rising young officer. Not only was he a good
+soldier, but also a man of upright life, and his untimely and violent
+death brought grief to many hearts, and robbed the world of a good man
+and a patriot. As the story of his death, and what it led to is
+interesting, I will briefly repeat it:
+
+Some time before this event happened, there were good grounds for
+believing that there was a band formed between some of the soldiers and
+rough characters about the fort to rob the paymaster, but it became
+known, and a company was sent to guard him from Long Pine. Not long
+after this a half-breed killed another in a saloon row, near the fort,
+and Lieut. Cherry was detailed to arrest the murderer. Lieut. C. took
+with him a small squad of soldiers, and two Indian scouts. When they
+had been out two days, the murderer was discovered in some rock
+fastnesses, and as the Lieutenant was about to secure him, he was shot
+by one of the soldiers of the squad by the name of Locke, in order to
+let the fugitive escape. The murderer of Lieut. C. escaped in the
+confusion that followed, but Spotted Tail, chief of the Sioux Indians,
+who held the lieutenant in great esteem, ordered out a company of spies
+under Crow Dog, one of his under chiefs, to hunt him down. They
+followed his trail until near Fort Pierre, where they found him under
+arrest. They wanted to bring him back to Fort Niobrara, but were not
+allowed to. He was tried and paid the penalty of life for life--a poor
+return for such a one as he had taken.
+
+He was evidently one of the band before mentioned, but ignorant of this
+the lieutenant had chosen him to be a help, and instead was the taker
+of his life.
+
+When Crow Dog returned without the murderer of Lieut. C., Spotted Tail
+was very angry, and put him under arrest. Soon after, when the Indians
+were about to start on their annual hunt, Spotted Tail would not let
+Crow Dog go, which made the feud still greater. In the fall, when
+Spotted Tail was about to start to Washington to consult about the
+agency lands, Crow Dog had his wife drive his wagon up to Spotted
+Tail's tepee, and call him out, when Crow Dog, who lay concealed in the
+wagon, rose up and shot him, and made his escape, but was so closely
+followed that after three days he came into Fort Niobrara, and gave
+himself up. He has been twice tried, and twice sentenced to death, but
+has again been granted a new trial, and is now a prisoner at Fort
+Pierre.
+
+The new county is named Cherry in honor of the beloved lieutenant.
+
+While taking tea, we informed Lieut. Davis that it was our intention to
+return on a combination train that would leave Valentine about 3
+o'clock. Finding we would then have little time to reach the train, he
+immediately ordered the ambulance, and telephoned to hold the train a
+half hour for our arrival, as it was then time for it to leave. And
+bidding our kind entertainers a hasty good bye, we were soon on our
+way. Although I felt I could not do Fort Niobrara and the strange
+beauty of the surrounding country justice by cutting my visit so short,
+yet I was glad to be off on a day train, as the regular passenger train
+left after night, and my confidence in the cow-boys and the rough
+looking characters seen on the street, was not sufficiently established
+by their quiet demeanor of the morning to fancy meeting a night train.
+The riddled sign-boards showed that there was a great amount of
+ammunition used there, and we did not care to have any of it used on
+us, or our good opinion of them spoiled by a longer stay, and, too, we
+wanted to have a daylight view of the country from there to Long Pine.
+So we did not feel sorry to see the driver lash the four mules into a
+gallop. At the bridge, spanning the Niobrara, we met Rev. Herbert and a
+couple of others on their way to the fort, who told us they thought the
+train had already started; but the driver only urged the mules to a
+greater speed, and as I clung to the side of the ambulance, I asked:
+
+"Do mules ever run off?"
+
+"Sometimes they do."
+
+"Well, do you think that is what these mules are doing now?"
+
+"No, I guess not."
+
+And as if to make sure they would, he reached out and wielded the long
+lash whip, and we understood that he not only wished to make the train
+on time, but also show us how soldier boys can drive "government
+mules." The thought that they were mules of the "U.S." brand did not
+add to our ease of mind any, for we had always heard them quoted as the
+very worst of mules.
+
+Mrs. P. shook her head, and said she did believe they were running off,
+and I got in a good position to make a hasty exit if necessary, and
+then watched them run. After all we enjoyed the ride of four and a half
+miles in less than 30 minutes, and thanked the driver for it as he
+helped us into the depot in plenty of time for the train.
+
+Mr. Tucker brought us some beautiful specimens of petrified wood--chips
+from a petrified log, found along the Minnechaduza, as a reminder of
+our trip to Valentine. Several cow-boys were in the depot, but as quiet
+as in the morning.
+
+I employed the time in gathering information about the country from Mr.
+T. He informed me there was some good table-land beyond the bluffs,
+which would be claimed by settlers, and in a couple of years the large
+cattle ranches would have to go further west to find herding ground.
+They are driven westward just as the Indians and buffalo are, by the
+settling up of the country.
+
+Valentine is near the north boundary of the state, is west of the 100th
+meridian, and 295 miles distant from the Missouri river.
+
+When about ready to start, who should come to board the train but the
+man whom I thought must be a pony boy.
+
+"Oh, Mrs. P.! that bad man is going too, and see! We will have to
+travel in only a baggage car!"
+
+"Well, we cannot help ourselves now. The ambulance has started back,
+and we cannot stay here, so we are compelled to go."
+
+Mr. T. remarked:
+
+"He does look like a bad man; but don't you know you make your own
+company very often, and I am assured you will be well treated by the
+train-men, and even that bad-looking man; and to help you all I can, I
+will speak to the conductor in your behalf.
+
+The two chairs of the coach were placed at our use, while the conductor
+and stranger occupied the tool-chest. One side-door was kept open that
+I might sit back and yet have a good view. Mrs. P., not in the least
+discomforted by our position, was soon nodding in her chair, and I felt
+very much alone.
+
+"Where music is, his Satanic majesty cannot enter," I thought, and as I
+sat with book and pencil in hand, writing a few words now and then, I
+sang--just loud enough to be heard, many of the good old hymns and
+songs, and ended with, "Dreaming of home." I wanted to make that man
+think of "home and mother," if he ever had any. Stopping now and then
+to ask him some question about the country in the most respectful way,
+and as though he was the only one who knew anything about it, and was
+always answered in the most respectful manner.
+
+I sat near the door, and was prepared to jump right out into a
+sand-bank if anything should happen; but nothing occurred to make any
+one jump, only Mrs. P., when I gave her a pinch to wake her up and
+whisper to her "to please keep awake for I feel dreadful lonely."
+
+Well, all I got written was:
+
+Left Valentine about 3:30 in a baggage and mail car, over the sandy
+roads, now crossing the Niobrara bridge 200 feet long, 108 feet high;
+river not wide; no timber to be seen; now over a sand fill and through
+a sand cut 101 feet deep, and 321 feet wide at top, and 20 at bottom.
+Men are kept constantly at work to remove the sand that drifts into the
+cuts.
+
+THATCHER, seven miles from V., a few faces peer up at the train from
+their dug-out homes, station house, and one 8x10 deserted store-house
+almost entirely covered with the signs, "Butter, Vegetables, and Eggs,"
+out of which, I am told, thousands of dollars' worth have been sold.
+Think it must have been canned goods, for old tin fruit cans are strewn
+all around.
+
+To our right is a chain of sand hills, while to the left it is a level
+grassy plain. The most of these lakelets, spoken of before, I am told,
+are only here during rainy seasons. Raining most of the time now.
+
+ARABIA, one house, and a tent that gives it an Arabic look.
+
+WOOD LAKE, one house. Named from a lakelet and one tree. Some one
+has taken a claim here, and built a sod house. Beyond this there is
+scarcely a house to be seen.
+
+JOHNSTOWN, two houses, a tent, and water tank. Country taking on a
+better appearance--farm houses dotting the country in every direction.
+Country still grows better as we near Ainsworth, a pretty little town,
+a little distance to the left. Will tell you of this place again.
+
+Crossing the Long Pine Creek, one mile west of Long Pine town, we reach
+Long Pine about six o'clock.
+
+Mrs. P. says she does not care to go the rest of the way alone, so I
+have concluded to stop there over Sabbath. I feel like heaping praises
+and thanks upon these men who have so kindly considered our presence.
+Not even in their conversation with each other have I noticed the use
+of one slang or profane word, and felt like begging pardon of the
+stranger for thinking so wrongly of him.
+
+Allow me to go back and tell you of Ainsworth:
+
+Ainsworth is located near Bone creek, on the homestead of Mrs. N. J.
+Osborne, and Mr. Hall. It is situated on a gently rolling prairie,
+fifteen miles south of the Niobrara river, sand hills four miles south,
+and twelve miles west. Townsite was platted August, 1882, and now has
+one newspaper, two general stores, two hardware stores, two lumber
+yards, two land offices, two livery stables, one drug store, one
+restaurant, and a millinery, barber, blacksmith shop, and last of all
+to be mentioned, two saloons. A M.E. church is organized with a
+membership of thirteen.
+
+I would take you right over this same ground, reader, after a lapse of
+seven months, and tell you of what I have learned of Ainsworth, and its
+growth since then.
+
+Brown county was organized in March, 1883, and Ainsworth has been
+decided as the county seat, as it is in the centre of the populated
+portion of the county. But the vote is disputed, and contested by the
+people of Long Pine precinct, so it yet is an undecided question.
+Statistics of last July gave $43,000 of assessed property; eight
+Americans to one foreigner. I quote this to show that it is not all
+foreigners that go west.
+
+"The population of Ainsworth is now 360; has three banks, and a number
+of business houses have been added, and a Congregational church (the
+result of the labor of Rev. Joseph Herbert, during his vacation
+months), a public building, and a $3,000 school house.
+
+"Claims taken last spring can now be sold for from $1,000 to $1,500. A
+bridge has been built across the Niobrara, due north of Ainsworth.
+There is a good deal of vacant government land north of the river,
+yet much of the best has been taken, but there are several thousand
+acres, good farm and grazing land, yet vacant in the county. There is a
+continual stream of land seekers coming in, and it is fast being taken.
+The sod and log 'shanties,' are fast giving way to frame dwellings, and
+the face of the country is beginning to assume a different appearance.
+Fair quality of land is selling for from three to ten dollars per acre.
+
+"The weather has been so favorable (Dec. 11, '83) that farmers are
+still plowing. First frost occurred Sept. 26th. Mr. Cook, of this
+place, has about 8,000 head of cattle; does not provide feed or shelter
+for them during the winter, yet loses very few. Some look fat enough
+for market now, with no other feed than the prairie grass.
+
+"School houses are now being built in nearly all the school districts.
+The voting population of the county at last election was 1,000. I will
+give you the production of the soil, and allow you to judge of its
+merit: Wheat from 28 to 35 bushels per acre; oats 50 to 80 bushels per
+acre; potatoes, weighing 3-1/2 pounds, and 400 bushels per acre;
+cabbage, 22 pounds----"
+
+This information I received from Mr. P. D. McAndrew, who was so
+favorably impressed with the country, when on his visit to Fort
+Niobrara, that he disposed of his _Tribune_ office, and returned,
+and took a claim near the Stone Butte, of which I have before spoken,
+and located at Ainsworth.
+
+I would add that Valentine has not made much advancement, as it is of
+later birth, and the cow-boys still hold sway, verifying Mr. Tucker's
+stories as only too true by added deeds of life-taking.
+
+You may be interested in knowing what success Rev. Herbert had in
+preaching in such a place. He says of the first Sabbath: "Held services
+in the restaurant at ten a.m., with an audience of about twenty. One
+saloon keeper offered to close his bar, and give me the use of the
+saloon for the hour. All promised to close their bars for the time, but
+did not. The day was very much as Saturday; if any difference the
+stores did a more rushing business. As far as I was privileged to meet
+with the cow-boys, they treated me well. They molest those only who
+join them in their dissipations, and yet show fear of them. No doubt
+there are some very low characters among them, but there is chivalry
+(if it may so be called) that will not brook an insult to a lady. Many
+of them are fugitives from justice under assumed names; others are
+runaways from homes in the eastern states, led to it by exciting
+stories of western life, found in the cheap fiction of the times, and
+the accounts of such men as the James boys. But there are many who
+remember no other life. They spend most of their time during the summer
+in the saddle, seldom seeing any but their companions. Their nights are
+spent rolled in their blankets, with the sky for their roof and sod for
+a pillow. They all look older than their years would warrant them in
+looking."
+
+
+LONG PINE.
+
+After supper I walked out to see the bridge across the Long Pine creek
+of which I have before spoken. But I was too tired to enjoy the scenery
+and see it all, and concluded if the morrow was the Sabbath, there
+could be no harm in spending a part of it quietly seeing some of
+nature's grandeur, and returned to the Severance House and retired
+early to have a long night of rest. There is no bar connected with this
+hotel, although the only one in town, and a weary traveler surely rests
+the better for its absence.
+
+The morning was bright and pleasant, and Mrs. H. L. Glover, of Long
+Pine, Mr. H. L. Hubletz, and Mr. L. A. Ross, of the colony, and myself
+started early for the bridge.
+
+It is 600 feet in length, and 105 feet high. The view obtained from it
+is grand indeed. Looking south the narrow stream is soon lost to view
+by its winding course, but its way is marked by the cedar and pine
+trees that grow in its narrow valley, and which tower above the
+table-land just enough to be seen. Just above the bridge, from among
+the rocks that jut out of the bank high above the water, seven distinct
+springs gush and drip, and find their way down the bank into the stream
+below, mingling with the waters of the Pine and forming quite a deep
+pool of clear water. But like other Nebraska waters it is up and away,
+and with a rush and ripple glides under the bridge, around the bluffs,
+and far away to the north, until it kisses the waters of the Niobrara.
+We can follow its course north only a little way farther than we can
+south, but the valley and stream is wider, the bluffs higher, and the
+trees loftier.
+
+It is not enough to view it at such a distance, and as height adds to
+grandeur more than depth, we want to get right down to the water's edge
+and look up at the strangely formed walls that hem them in. So we cross
+the bridge to the west and down the steep bank, clinging to bushes and
+branches to help us on our way, until we stop to drink from the
+springs. The water is cool and very pleasant to the taste. Then stop on
+a foot bridge across the pool to dip our hands in the running water,
+and gather a memento from its pebbly bed. On the opposite shore we view
+the remains of a deserted dugout and wondered who would leave so
+romantic a spot. Then along a well worn path that followed the stream's
+winding way, climbing along the bluff's edges, now pulling ourselves up
+by a cedar bush, and now swinging down by a grape-vine, we followed on
+until Mrs. G. remarked: "This is an old Indian path," which sent a cold
+wave over me, and looking about, half expecting to see a wandering
+Sioux, and not caring to meet so formidable a traveler on such a narrow
+pathway, I proposed that we would go no farther. So back to the bridge
+and beyond we went, following down the stream.
+
+Some places the bluffs rise gradually to the table-land and are so
+grown with trees and bushes one can scarce tell them from Pennsylvania
+hills; but as a rule, they are steep, often perpendicular, from
+twenty-five to seventy-five feet high, forming a wall of powdered sand
+and clay that is so hard and compact that we could carve our initials,
+and many an F. F. I left to crumble away with the bluffs.
+
+Laden with pebbles gathered from the highest points, cones from the
+pine trees, and flowers from the valley and sand hills, I went back
+from my Sabbath day's ramble with a mind full of wonder and a clear
+conscience. For had I not stood before preachers more powerful and no
+less eloquent than many who go out well versed in theology, and, too,
+preachers that have declaimed God's wonderful works and power ever
+since He spake them into existence and will ever be found at their post
+until the end.
+
+But how tired we all were by the time we reached Mrs. G.'s home, where
+a good dinner was awaiting our whetted appetites! That over, Mr. H.
+stole out to Sunday School, and Mr. R. sat down to the organ. But soon
+a familiar chord struck home to my heart, and immediately every mile of
+the distance that lay between me and home came before me.
+
+"Homesick?" Yes; so homesick I almost fainted with the first thought,
+but I slipped away, and offered up a prayer: my only help, but one that
+is all powerful in every hour and need.
+
+Mr. Glover told us of a Mrs. Danks, living near Long Pine, who had come
+from Pennsylvania, and was very anxious to see some one from her native
+state, and Mr. Ross and I went to call on her, and found her in a large
+double log house on the banks of the Pine--a very pretty spot they
+claimed three years ago. Though ill, she was overjoyed to see us, and
+said:
+
+"I heard of the colony from Pennsylvania, and told my husband I must go
+to see them as soon as I was able. Indeed, I felt if I could only see
+some one from home, it would almost cure me!"
+
+It happened that Mr. R. knew some of her friends living in Pittsburgh,
+Pennsylvania, and what a treat the call was to all of us! She told us
+of their settling there, and how they had sheltered Crow Dog and Black
+Crow, when they were being taken away as prisoners. How they, and the
+few families living along the creek, had always held their Sabbath
+School and prayer meetings in their homes, and mentioned Mr. Skinner, a
+neighbor living not far away, who could tell us so much, as they had
+been living there longer, and had had more experience in pioneering.
+And on we went, along the creek over a half mile, to make another call.
+
+We found Mr. and Mrs. Skinner both so kind and interesting, and their
+home so crowded with curiosities, which our limited time would not
+allow us to examine, that we yielded to their solicitation, and
+promised to spend Monday with them.
+
+We finished the doings of our Sabbath at Long Pine by attending M.E.
+services at the school house, held by Rev. F. F. Thomas.
+
+_Monday_--Spent the entire day at the "Pilgrim's Retreat," as the
+Skinner homestead is called, enjoying its romantic scenery, and best of
+all, Mrs. S.'s company. The house is almost hid by trees, which are
+leafing out, but above the tree tops, on the other side of the creek,
+"Dizzy Peak" towers 150 feet high from the water's edge. White Cliffs
+are several points, not so towering as Dizzy Peak. Hidden among these
+cliffs are several canyons irregular in shape and size.
+
+Mrs. S. took me through a full suite of rooms among these canyons; and
+"Wild Cat gulch," 400 feet long, so named in honor of the killing of a
+wild cat within its walls by Adelbert Skinner, only a year ago, was
+explored. White Cliffs was climbed, and tired out, we sat us down in
+the "parlor" of the canyons, and listened to Mrs. S.'s story of her
+trials and triumphs. There, I know Mrs. S. will object to that word,
+"triumph," for she says: "God led us there to do that work, and we only
+did our duty."
+
+We enjoyed listening to her story, as an earnest, christian spirit was
+so plainly visible through it all, and we repeat it to show how God can
+and will care for his children when they call upon him.
+
+
+MRS. I. S. SKINNER'S STORY.
+
+"My husband had been in very poor health for some time, and in the
+spring of 1879, with the hope that he would regain not only his health,
+but much he had spent in doctoring, we sought a home along the
+Niobrara. Ignorant of the existence of the "pony-boy clan," we pitched
+our tent on the south side of the river, about a mile from where
+Morrison's bridge has since been built; had only been there a few days,
+when a couple of young men came, one by the name of Morrison, and the
+other "Doc Middleton," the noted leader of the gang of horse-thieves
+that surrounded us, but who was introduced as James Shepherd; who after
+asking Mr. S. if he was a minister, requested him to come to the little
+house across the river (same house where I slept on the table) and
+perform a marriage ceremony. On the appointed evening Mr. S. forded the
+river, and united him in marriage with a Miss Richards.
+
+The room was crowded with armed men, "ready for a surprise from the
+Indians," they said, while the groom laid his arms off while the
+ceremony was being performed. Mr. S., judging the real character of the
+men, left as soon as his duty was performed.
+
+About a month after this, a heavy reward was offered for the arrest of
+Doc. Middleton, and two men, Llewellyn and Hazen by name, came to
+Middleton's tent that was hid away in a canyon, and falsely represented
+that they were authorized to present some papers to him, the signing of
+which, and leaving the country, would recall the reward. His wife
+strongly objected, but he, glad to so free himself--and at that time
+sick--signed the papers; and then was told there was one more paper to
+sign, and requested to ride out a short way with them.
+
+He cheerfully mounted his pony and rode with them, but had not gone far
+until Hazen fell behind, and shot several times at him, badly wounding
+him. He in turn shot Hazen three times and left him for dead.
+
+This happened on Sunday morning, so near our tent that we heard the
+shooting. Mr. S. was soon at the scene, and helped convey Hazen to our
+tent, after which Llewellyn fled. Middleton was taken to the "Morrison
+house." There the two men lay, not a mile apart. The one surrounded by
+a host of followers and friends, whose lives were already dark with
+crime and wickedness, and swearing vengeance on the betrayer of their
+leader, and also on anyone who would harbor or help him. The other,
+with only us two to stand in defiance of all their threats, and render
+him what aid we in our weakness could. And believing we defended a
+worthy man, Mr. S. declared he would protect him with his life, and
+would shoot anyone who would attempt to force an entrance into our
+tent. Fearing some would persist in coming, and knowing he would put
+his threats into execution if forced to it, I went to the brow of the
+hill and entreated those who came to turn back.
+
+When at last Mr. Morrison said he would go, woman's strongest weapon
+came to my help; my tears prevailed, and he too turned back, and we
+were not again disturbed.
+
+Our oldest boy, Adelbert, then 13 years old, was started to Keya Paha
+for a physician, and at night our three other little boys, the youngest
+but two years old, were tucked away in the wagon, a little way from the
+tent, and left in the care of the Lord, while Mr. S. and I watched the
+long dark night through, with guns and revolvers ready for instant
+action.
+
+Twice only, when we thought the man was dying, did we use a light, for
+fear it would make a mark at long range. We had brought a good supply
+of medicine with us, and knowing well its use, we administered to the
+man, and morning came and found him still living.
+
+Once only did I creep out through the darkness to assure myself that
+our children were safe.
+
+Monday I went to see Middleton, and carried him some medicine which he
+very badly needed.
+
+After night-fall, Adelbert and the doctor came, and with them, two men,
+friends of Hazen, whom they met, and who inquired of the doctor of
+Hazen's whereabouts. The doctor after assuring himself that they were
+his friends, told them his mission, and brought them along, and with
+their help Hazen was taken away that night in a wagon; they acting as
+guards, the doctor as nurse, and Mr. S. as driver.
+
+Hazen's home was in the south-east part of the state; and they took him
+to Columbus, then the nearest railway point. It was a great relief when
+they were safely started, but I was not sure they would be allowed to
+land in safety. Mr. S. would not be back until Thursday, and there I
+was, all alone with the children, my own strength nothing to depend on
+to defend myself against the many who felt indignant at the course we
+had pursued.
+
+The nearest neighbor that we knew was truly loyal, lived fifteen miles
+away. Of course I knew the use of firearms, but that was not much to
+depend upon, and suffering from heart disease I was almost prostrated
+through the trouble. Threats were sent to me by the children that if
+Mr. S. dared to return, he would be shot down without mercy, and
+warning us all to leave as quickly as possible if we would save
+ourselves. I was helpless to do any thing but just stay and take
+whatever the Lord would allow to befall us. I expected every night that
+our cattle would be run off, and we would be robbed of everything we
+had. One dear old lady, who lived near, stayed a couple of nights with
+us, but at last told me, for the safety of her life she could not come
+again, and urged me to go with her to her home.
+
+"Oh, Sister Robinson," I cried, "you _must not_ leave me!" and then the
+thought came, how very selfish of me to ask her to risk her own life
+for my sake, and I told her I could stay alone.
+
+When we were coming here, I felt the Lord was leading us, and I could
+not refrain from singing,
+
+ "Through this changing world below,
+ Lead me gently, gently, as I go;
+ Trusting Thee, I cannot stray,
+ I can never, never lose my way."
+
+And my faith and trust did not fail me until I saw Mrs. R. going over
+the hill to her home, and my utter loneliness and helplessness came
+upon me with so much force, that I cried aloud, "Oh, Lord, why didst
+you lead us into all this trouble?" But a voice seemed to whisper,
+"Fear not; they that are for thee are more than they that are against
+thee." and immediately my faith and trust were not only renewed, but
+greatly strengthened, and I felt that I dwelt in safety even though
+surrounded by those who would do me harm. It was not long until Mrs. R.
+came back, saying she had come to stay with me, for after she got home
+she thought how selfish she had acted in thinking so much of her own
+safety, and leaving me all alone. But I assured her my fears were all
+dispelled, and I would not allow her to remain.
+
+Yet I could not but feel uneasy about Mr. S., and especially as the
+appointed time for his return passed, and the time of anxious waiting
+and watching was lengthened out until the next Monday.
+
+On Sunday a company of soldiers came and took "Doc" Middleton a
+prisoner. His term in the penitentiary will expire in June, and I do
+hope he has learned a lesson that will lead him to a better life; for
+he was rather a fine looking man, and is now only thirty-two years old.
+
+(I will here add that Middleton left the penitentiary at the close of
+his term seemingly a reformed man, vowing to leave the West with all
+his bad deeds behind.)
+
+Llewellyn received $175 for his trouble, and Hazen $250 for his death
+blow, for he only lived about a year after he was shot. I must say we
+did not approve of the way in which they attempted to take Middleton.
+
+We did not locate there after all this happened, but went eight miles
+further on, to a hay ranch, and with help put up between four and five
+hundred tons of hay. We lived in constant watching even there, and only
+remained the summer, and came and homesteaded this place, which we
+could now sell for a good price, but we do not care to try life on the
+frontier again.
+
+In praise of the much talked-of cow-boys, I must say we never
+experienced any trouble from them, although many have found shelter for
+a night under our roof; and if they came when Mr. S. was away, they
+would always, without my asking, disarm themselves, and hand their
+revolvers to me, and ask me to lay them away until morning. This was
+done to assure me that I was safe at their hands.
+
+
+I repeat her story word for word as nearly as possible, knowing well I
+repeat only truth.
+
+And now to her collection of curiosities--but can only mention a few:
+One was a piece of a Mastodon's jaw-bone, found along the creek, two
+feet long, with teeth that would weigh about two pounds. They unearthed
+the perfect skeleton, but as it crumbled on exposure to the air, they
+left it to harden before disturbing it; and when they returned much had
+been carried away. The head was six feet long, and tusks, ten feet, of
+which they have a piece seven inches in length, fifteen inches in
+circumference, and weighs eight pounds, yet it was taken from near the
+point. Mrs. S. broke a piece off and gave to me. It is a chalky white,
+and shows a growth of moss like that of moss agate. She has gathered
+from around her home agates and moss agates and pebbles of all colors.
+As she handed them to me one by one, shading them from a pink topaz to
+a ruby, I could not help touching them to my tongue to see if they did
+not taste; they were so clear and rich-looking.
+
+It seemed odd to see a chestnut burr and nut cased as a curiosity. But
+what puzzled me most was a beaver's tail and paw, and we exhausted our
+guessing powers over it, and then had to be told. She gave it to me
+with numerous other things to carry home as curiosities.
+
+There are plenty of beaver along the creek, and I could scarcely be
+persuaded that some naughty George Washington with his little hatchet
+had not felled a number of trees, and hacked around, instead of the
+beaver with only their four front teeth.
+
+The timber along the creek is burr oak, black walnut, white ash, pine,
+cedar, hackberry, elm, ironwood, and cottonwood. I was sorry to hear of
+a saw mill being in operation on the creek, sawing up quite a good deal
+of lumber.
+
+Rev. Thomas makes his home with Mr. Skinner, and from him I learned he
+was the first minister that held services in Long Pine, which was in
+April, '82, in the railroad eating house, and has since held regular
+services every two weeks. Also preaches at Ainsworth, Johnstown,
+Pleasant Dale, and Brinkerhoff; only seventy of a membership in all.
+
+Well, the pleasantest day must have an end, and after tea, a swing
+between the tall oak trees of their dooryard, another drink from the
+spring across the creek, a pleasant walk and talk with Miss Flora
+Kenaston, the school-mistress of Long Pine, another look at Giddy Peak
+and White Cliffs, and "Tramp tramp, tramp," on the organ, in which Mr.
+S. joined, for he was one of the Yankee soldier boys from York state,
+and with many thanks and promises of remembrance, I leave my
+newly-formed friends, carrying with me tokens of their kindness, but,
+best of all, fond memories of my day at "Pilgrim's Retreat."
+
+But before I leave on the train to-night I must tell you of the
+beginning of Long Pine, and what it now is. The town was located in
+June, '81. The first train was run the following October. Mr. T. H.
+Glover opened the first store. Then came Mr. H. J. Severance and
+pitched a boarding tent, 14x16, from which they fed the workmen on the
+railroad, accommodating fifty to eighty men at a meal. But the tent was
+followed by a good hotel which was opened on Thanksgiving day. Now
+there is one bank, two general stores, one hardware, one grocery, one
+drug, and one feed store, a billiard hall, saloon, and a restaurant.
+Population 175.
+
+From a letter received from C. B. Glover, written December 15, I glean
+the following:
+
+"You would scarcely recognize Long Pine as the little village you
+visited last May. There have been a good many substantial buildings put
+up since then. Notably is the railroad eating house, 22x86, ten
+two-story buildings, and many one-story. Long Pine is now the end of
+both passenger and freight division. The Brown County bank has moved
+into their 20x40 two-story building; Masonic Hall occupying the second
+story. The G.A.R. occupying the upper room of I. H. Skinner's
+hardware, where also religious services are regularly held.
+Preparations are being made for a good old fashioned Christmas tree.
+The high school, under the able management of Rev. M. Laverty, is
+proving a success in every sense of the word. Mr. Ritterbush is putting
+in a $10,000 flouring mill on the Pine, one-half mile from town, also a
+saw mill at the same place. The saw mill of Mr. Upstill, on the Pine,
+three-fourths mile from town, has been running nearly all summer sawing
+pine and black walnut lumber. Crops were good, wheat going thirty
+bushels per acre, and corn on sod thirty. Vegetables big. A potato
+raised by Mr. Sheldon, near Morrison's bridge, actually measured
+twenty-four inches in circumference, one way, and twenty and one-half
+short way. It was sent to Kansas to show what the sand hills of
+north-western Nebraska can produce. Our government lands are fast
+disappearing, but by taking time, and making thorough examination of
+what is left, good homesteads and pre-emptions can be had by going back
+from the railroad ten, fifteen, and twenty miles.
+
+"The land here is not all the same grade, a portion being fit for
+nothing but grazing. This is why people cannot locate at random. Timber
+culture relinquishments are selling for from $300 to $1,000; deeded
+lands from $600 to $2,000 per 160 acres. Most of this land has been
+taken up during the past year.
+
+"I have made an estimate of the government land still untaken in our
+county, and find as follows:
+
+"Brown county has 82 townships, 36 sections to a township, 4 quarters
+to a section, 11,808 quarter sections. We have about 1,500 voters.
+Allowing one claim to each voter, as some have two and others none, it
+will leave 10,308 claims standing open for entry under the homestead,
+pre-emption, and timber culture laws.
+
+"Long Pine is geographically in the center of the county, and fifteen
+miles south of the Niobrara river. Regarding the proposed bridge across
+the river, it is not yet completed; think it will be this winter."
+
+From an entirely uninterested party, and one who knows the country
+well, I would quote: "Should say that perhaps one-third of Brown county
+is too sandy for cultivation; but a great portion of it will average
+favorably with the states of Michigan and Indiana, and I think further
+developments will prove the sand-hills that so many complain of, to be
+a good producing soil."
+
+Water is good and easily obtained.
+
+The lumber and trees talked of, are all in the narrow valley of the
+creek, and almost completely hid by its depth, so that looking around
+on the table-land, not a tree is to be seen. All that can be seen at a
+distance is the tops of the tallest trees, which look like bushes. Long
+Pine and Valentine are just the opposite in scenery.
+
+The sand-hills seen about Long Pine, and all through this country, are
+of a clear, white sand.
+
+But there, the train is whistling, and I must go. Though my time has
+been so pleasantly and profitably spent here, yet I am glad to be
+eastward bound.
+
+Well, I declare! Here is Mr. McAndrew and his mother on their way back
+from Valentine, and also the agent, Mr. Gerdes, who says he was out on
+the Keya Paha yesterday (Sunday) and took a big order from a new
+merchant just opening a store near the colony.
+
+Mr. McA. says they had a grand good time at the Fort, but not so
+pleasant was the coming from Valentine to-night, as a number of the
+cow-boys seen at the depot Saturday morning are aboard and were
+drinking, playing cards, and grew quite loud over their betting. As he
+and his mother were the only passengers besides them, it was very
+unpleasant. The roughest one, he tells me, was the one I took for a
+ranch owner; and the most civil, the one I thought had known a better
+life. And there the poor boy lay, monopolizing five seats for his sole
+use, by turning three, and taking the cushions up from five, four to
+lie on, and one to prop up the back of the middle seat. It is a gift
+given only to cow-boys to monopolize so much room, for almost anyone
+would sooner hang themselves to a rack, than ask that boy for a seat;
+so he and his companions are allowed to quietly sleep.
+
+How glad we are to reach Stuart at last, and to be welcomed by Mrs.
+Wood in the "wee sma'" hours with: "Glad you are safe back."
+
+Stuart at the opening of 1880 was an almost untouched prairie spot, 219
+miles from Missouri Valley, Iowa; but in July, 1880, Mr. John Carberry
+brought his family from Atkinson, and they had a "Fourth" all to
+themselves on their newly taken homestead, which now forms a part of
+the town plat, surveyed in the fall of '81; at that time having but two
+occupants, Carberry and Halleck. In November, the same year, the first
+train puffed into the new town of Stuart, so named, in honor of Peter
+Stuart, a Scotchman living on a homestead adjoining the town-site on
+the south.
+
+Reader, do you know how an oil town is built up? Well, the building up
+of a town along the line of a western railroad that opens up a new,
+rich country, is very much the same. One by one they gather at first,
+until the territory is tested, then in numbers, coming from everywhere.
+
+But the soil of Nebraska is more lasting than the hidden sea of oil of
+Pennsylvania, so about the only difference is that the western town is
+permanent. Temporary buildings are quickly erected at first, and then
+the substantial ones when time and money are more plenty.
+
+So "stirring Stuart" gathered, until we now count one church (Pres.),
+which was used for a school room last winter, two hotels, two general
+stores, principal of which is Mr. John Skirving, two hardware and farm
+implement stores, one drug store, two lumber yards, a harness and
+blacksmith shop, and a bank.
+
+Not far from Stuart, I am told, was an Indian camping ground, which was
+visited but two years ago by about a hundred of them, "tenting again on
+the old camp ground." And I doubt not but that the winding Elkhorn has
+here looked on wilder scenes than it did on the morning of the 27th of
+April, '83, when the little party of 65 colonists stepped down and out
+from their homes in the old "Keystone" into the "promised land," and
+shot at the telegraph pole, and missed it. But I will not repeat the
+story of the first chapter.
+
+Now that the old year of '83 has fled since the time of which I
+have written, I must add what improvements, or a few at least, that
+the lapse of time has brought to the little town that can very
+appropriately be termed "the Plymouth rock of the N.M.A.C."
+
+From The Stuart _Ledger_ we quote: The Methodists have organized
+with a membership of twenty-four, and steps have been taken for the
+building of a church. Services now held every alternate Sunday by Rev.
+Mallory, of Keya Paha, in the Presbyterian church, of which Rev. Benson
+is pastor. Union Sunday school meets every Sunday, also the Band of
+Hope, a temperance organization. A new school house, 24x42, where over
+60 children gather to be instructed by Mr. C. A. Manville and Miss
+Mamie Woods. An opera house 22x60, two stories high, Mrs. Arter's
+building, 18x24, two stories. Two M.D.'s have been added, a dentist,
+and a photographer. It is useless to attempt to quote all, so will
+close with music from the Stuart Cornet Band. From a letter received
+from "Sunny Side" from the pen of Mrs. W. W. Warner, Dec. 24:
+"Population of Stuart is now 382, an increase of 70 within the last two
+months. Building is still progressing, and emigrants continue to come
+in their 'schooners.'
+
+"No good government land to be had near town. Soil from one to three
+feet deep. First frost Oct. 11. First snow, middle of November, hardly
+enough to speak of, and no more until 22d of December."
+
+But to return to our story. My "Saratoga" was a "traveling companion";
+of my own thinking up, but much more convenient, and which served as
+satchel and pillow. For the benefit of lady readers, I will describe
+its make-up. Two yards of cloth, desired width, bind ends with tape,
+and work corresponding eyelet holes in both ends, and put on pockets,
+closed with buttons, and then fold the ends to the middle of the cloth,
+and sew up the sides, a string to lace the ends together, and your
+satchel is ready to put your dress skirts, or mine at least, in full
+length; roll or fold the satchel, and use a shawl-strap. I did not want
+to be burdened and annoyed with a trunk, and improvised the above, and
+was really surprised at its worth as a traveling companion; so much can
+be carried, and smoother than if folded in a trunk or common satchel;
+and also used as a pillow. This with a convenient hand-satchel was all
+I used. These packed, and good-byes said to the remaining colonists,
+and the dear friends that had been friends indeed to me, and kissing
+"wee Nellie" last of all, I bid farewell to Stuart.
+
+The moon had just risen to see me off. Again I am with friends. Mr.
+Lahaye, one of the colonists, was returning to Bradford for his family.
+Mrs. Peck and her daughter, Mrs. Shank, of Stuart, were also aboard.
+
+Of Atkinson, nine miles east of Stuart, I have since gleaned the
+following from an old schoolmate, Rev. A. C. Spencer, of that place:
+"When I came to Atkinson, first of March, '83, I found two stores, two
+hotels, one drug store, one saloon, and three residences. Now we have a
+population of 300, a large school building (our schools have a nine
+month's session), M.E. and Presbyterian churches, each costing about
+$2,000, a good grist mill, and one paper, the Atkinson _Graphic_,
+several stores, and many other conveniences too numerous to mention.
+Last March, but about fifty voters were in Atkinson precinct; now about
+500. There has been a wonderful immigration to this part of Holt county
+during the past summer, principally from Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa,
+though quite a number from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York. Six miles
+east of this place, where not a house was to be seen the 15th of last
+March, is now a finely settled community, with a school house, Sunday
+school, and preaching every two weeks. Some good government lands can
+be had eight to twenty-five miles from town, but will all be taken by
+next May. Atkinson is near the Elkhorn river, and water is easily
+obtained at 20 to 40 feet. Coal is seven to ten dollars per ton."
+
+I awoke at O'Neill just in time to see all but seven of our crowded
+coach get off. Some coming even from Valentine, a distance of 114
+miles, to attend Robinson's circus--but shows are a rarity here. The
+light of a rising sun made a pleasing view of O'Neill and surrounding
+country: the town a little distance from the depot, gently rolling
+prairie, the river with its fringe of willow bushes, and here and there
+settlers' homes with their culture of timber.
+
+O'Neill was founded in 1875 by Gen. O'Neill, a leader of the Fenians,
+and a colony of his own countrymen. It is now the county seat of Holt
+county, and has a population of about 800. Has three churches,
+Catholic, Presbyterian, and M.E.; community is largely Catholic. It has
+three papers, The _Frontier_, Holt County _Banner_, both republican,
+and O'Neill _Tribune_, Democratic, and three saloons. It is about a
+mile from the river. Gen. O'Neill died a few years ago in Omaha.
+
+Neligh, the county seat of Antelope county, is situated near the
+Elkhorn, which is 100 to 125 feet wide, and 3 to 6 feet deep at this
+point. The town was platted Feb., 1873, by J. D. Neligh. Railroad was
+completed, and trains commenced running Aug. 29, '80. Gates college
+located at Neligh by the Columbus Congregational Association, Aug. '81.
+U.S. land office removed to Neligh in '81. M.E. church built in '83.
+County seat located Oct. 2, '83. Court house in course of erection, a
+private enterprise by the citizens.
+
+I quote from a letter received from J. M. Coleman, and who has also
+given a long list of the business houses of Neligh, but it is useless
+to repeat, as every department of business and trade is well
+represented, and is all a population of 1,000 enterprising people will
+bring into a western town.
+
+To write up all the towns along the way would be but to repeat much
+that has already been said of others, and the story of their added
+years of existence, that has made them what the frontier towns of
+to-day will be in a few years. Then why gather or glean further?
+
+The valley of the Elkhorn is beautiful and interesting in its bright,
+new robes of green. At Battle Creek, near Norfolk, the grass was almost
+weaving high.
+
+It was interesting to note the advance in the growth of vegetation as
+we went south through Madison, Stanton, Cuming and Dodge counties.
+
+That this chapter may be complete, I would add all I know of the road
+to Missouri Valley--its starting point--and for this we have Mr. J. R.
+Buchanan for authority.
+
+There was once a small burg called DeSoto, about five miles south of
+the present Blair, which was located by the S.C. & P.R.R. company in
+1869, and named for the veteran, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, New
+Jersey, who was one of the leading spirits in the building of the road.
+Blair being a railroad town soon wholly absorbed DeSoto. The land was
+worth $1.25 per acre. To-day Blair has at least 2,500 of a population;
+is the prosperous county seat of Washington county. Land in the
+vicinity is worth from $25.00 to $40.00 per acre. The soil has no
+superior; this year showed on an average of twenty-five bushels of
+wheat per acre, and ordinarily yields sixty to eighty bushels of corn.
+Land up the Elkhorn Valley five years ago was $2.50 to $8.00 per acre,
+now it is worth from $12.00 to $30.00.
+
+The S.C. & P.R.R. proper was built from Sioux City, Iowa, and reached
+Fremont, Nebraska, in 1868. It had a small land grant of only about
+100,000 acres. The Fremont, Elkhorn Valley and Missouri River Railroad
+was organized and subsequently built from Fremont to Valentine, the
+direct route that nature made from the Missouri river to the Black
+Hills.
+
+As to the terminus of this road, no one yet knows. Whether, or when it
+will go to the Pacific coast is a question for the future. The Missouri
+river proper is about 2,000 feet wide. In preparing to bridge it the
+channel has been confined by a system of willow mattress work, until
+the bridge channel is covered by three spans 333 feet each or 1,000
+feet. The bridge is 60 feet above water and rests on four abutments
+built on caissons sank to the rock fifty feet beneath the bed of the
+river. This bridge was completed in November, 1883, at a cost of over
+$1,000,000.
+
+But good-bye, reader; the conductor says this is Fremont, and I must
+leave the S.C. for the U.P.R.R. and begin a new chapter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Over the U.P.R.R. from North Platte to Omaha and Lincoln.--A
+description of the great Platte Valley.
+
+
+I felt rather lonely after I had bid good-bye to my friends, but a
+depot is no place to stop and think, so I straightway attended to
+putting some unnecessary baggage in the care of the baggage-master
+until I returned, who said: "Just passed a resolution to-day to charge
+storage on baggage that is left over, but if you will allow me to
+remove the check, I will care for it without charge." One little act
+of kindness shown me already.
+
+At the U.P. depot I introduced myself to Mr. Jay Reynolds, ticket
+agent, who held letters for me, and my ticket over the U.P. road,
+which brother had secured and left in his care. He greeted me with: "Am
+glad to know you are safe, Miss Fulton, your brother was disappointed
+at not meeting you here, and telegraphed but could get no answer.
+Feared you had gone to Valentine and been shot."
+
+"Am sorry to have caused him so much uneasiness," I replied, "but the
+telegram came to Stuart when I was out at the location, and so could
+not let him hear from me, which is one of the disadvantages of
+colonizing on the frontier."
+
+"Your brother said he would direct your letters in my care, and I have
+been inquiring for you--but you must stop on your return and see the
+beauties of Fremont. Mrs. Reynolds will be glad to meet you."
+
+Well, I thought, more friends to make the way pleasant, and as it was
+not yet train time, I went to the post-office. The streets were
+thronged with people observing Decoration day. It was a real treat to
+see the blooming flowers and green lawns of the "Forest City;" I was
+almost tempted to pluck a snow-ball from a bush in the railroad garden.
+I certainly was carried past greener fields as the train bounded
+westward along the Platte valley, than I had seen north on the Elkhorn.
+
+The Platte river is a broad, shallow stream, with low banks, and barren
+of everything but sand. Now we are close to its banks, and again it is
+lost in the distance. The valley is very wide; all the land occupied
+and much under cultivation.
+
+I viewed the setting sun through the spray of a fountain in the
+railroad garden at Grand Island, tinging every drop of water with its
+amber light, making it a beautiful sight.
+
+Grand Island is one of the prettiest places along the way, named from
+an island in the river forty miles long and from one to three miles
+wide. I was anxious to see Kearney, but darkness settled down and
+hindered all further sight-seeing.
+
+The coach was crowded, and one poor old gentleman was "confidenced" out
+of sixty dollars, which made him almost sick, but his wife declares,
+"It is just good for him--no business to let the man get his hand on
+his money!"
+
+"I will turn your seats for you, ladies, as soon as we have room," the
+conductor says; but the lady going to Cheyenne, who shares my seat,
+assisted, and we turn our seats without help, and I, thinking of the
+old gentleman's experience, lie on my pocket, and put my gloves on to
+protect my ring from sliding off, and sleep until two o'clock, when the
+conductor wakes me with, "Almost at North Platte, Miss."
+
+I had written Miss Arta Cody to meet me, but did not know the hour
+would be so unreasonable. I scarcely expected to find her at the depot,
+but there she was standing in the chilly night air, ready to welcome me
+with, "I am so glad you have come, Frances!"
+
+We had never met before, but had grown quite familiar through our
+letters, and it was pleasant to be received with the same familiarity
+and not as a stranger. We were quickly driven to her home, and found
+Mrs. Cody waiting to greet me.
+
+To tell you of all the pleasures of my visit at the home of "Buffalo
+Bill," and of the trophies he has gathered from the hunt, chase, and
+trail, and seeing and hearing much that was interesting, and gleaning
+much of the real life of the noted western scout from Mrs. C., whom we
+found to be a lady of refinement and pleasing manners, would make a
+long story. Their beautiful home is nicely situated one-half mile from
+the suburbs of North Platte. The family consists of three daughters:
+Arta, the eldest is a true brunette, with clear, dark complexion, black
+hair, perfect features, and eyes that are beyond description in color
+and expression, and which sparkle with the girlish life of the sweet
+teens. Her education has by no means been neglected, but instead is
+taking a thorough course in boarding school. Orra, a very pleasant but
+delicate child of eleven summers, with her father's finely cut features
+and his generous big-heartedness; and wee babe Irma, the cherished pet
+of all. Their only son, Kit Carson, died young.
+
+It is not often we meet mother, daughters, and sisters so affectionate
+as are Mrs. C, Arta, and Orra. Mr. Cody's life is not a home life, and
+the mother and daughters cling to each other, trying to fill the void
+the husband and father's almost constant absence makes. He has amassed
+enough of this world's wealth and comfort to quietly enjoy life with
+his family. But a quiet life would be so contrary to the life he has
+always known, that it could be no enjoyment to him.
+
+To show how from his early boyhood, he drifted into the life of the
+"wild west," and which has become second nature to him, I quote the
+following from "The Life of Buffalo Bill."
+
+His father, Isaac Cody, was one of the original surveyors of Davenport,
+Iowa, and for several years drove stage between Chicago and Davenport.
+Was also justice of the peace, and served one term in the legislature
+from Iowa. Removed to Kansas in 1852, and established a trading post at
+Salt Creek Valley, near the Kickapoo Agency. At this time Kansas was
+occupied by numerous tribes of Indians who were settled on
+reservations, and through the territory ran the great highway to
+California and Salt Lake City, traveled by thousands of gold-seekers
+and Mormons.
+
+Living so near the Indians, "Billy" soon became acquainted with their
+language, and joined them in their sport, learning to throw the lance
+and shoot with bow and arrow.
+
+In 1854 his father spoke in public in favor of the Enabling Act, that
+had just passed, and was twice stabbed in the breast by a pro-slavery
+man, and by this class his life was constantly threatened; and made a
+burden from ill health caused by the wounds, until in '57, when he
+died. After the mother and children all alone had prepared the body for
+burial, in the loft of their log cabin at Valley Falls, a party of
+armed men came to take the life that had just gone out.
+
+Billy, their only living son, was their mainstay and support, doing
+service as a herder, and giving his earnings to his mother. The first
+blood he brought was in a quarrel over a little school-girl
+sweet-heart, during the only term of school he ever attended, and
+thinking he had almost killed his little boy adversary, he fled, and
+took refuge in a freight wagon going to Fort Kearney, which took him
+from home for forty days, and then returned to find he was freely
+forgiven for the slight wound he had inflicted. Later he entered the
+employ of the great freighters, Russell, Majors & Waddell, his duty
+being to help with a large drove of beef cattle going to Salt Lake City
+to supply Gen. A. S. Johnson's army, then operating against the
+Mormons, who at that time were so bitter that they employed the help of
+the Indians to massacre over-land freighters and emigrants. The great
+freighting business of this firm was done in wagons carrying a capacity
+of 7,000 pounds, and drawn by from eight to ten teams of oxen. A train
+consisted of twenty-five wagons. We must remember this was before a
+railroad spanned the continent, and was the only means of
+transportation beyond the states.
+
+It was on his first trip as freight boy that Billy Cody killed his
+first Indian. When just beyond old Ft. Kearney they were surprised by a
+party of Indians, and the three night herders while rounding up the
+cattle, were killed. The rest of the party retreated after killing
+several braves, and when near Plum Creek, Billy became separated from
+the rest, and seeing an Indian peering at him over the bluffs of the
+creek, took aim and brought to the dust his first Indian. This "first
+shot" won for him a name and notoriety enjoyed by none nearly so young
+as he, and filled him with ambition and daring for the life he has
+since led. Progressing from freight boy to pony express rider, stage
+driver, hunter, trapper, and Indian scout in behalf of the government,
+which office he filled well and was one of the best, if not the very
+best, scouts of the plains; was married in March, '65, to Miss Louisa
+Fredrica, of French descent, of St. Louis; was elected to legislature
+in 1871, but the place was filled by another while he continued his
+exhibitions on the stage.
+
+When any one is at loss for a name for anything they wish to speak of,
+they just call it buffalo ---- and as a consequence, there are buffalo
+gnats, buffalo birds, buffalo fish, buffalo beans, peas, berries, moss,
+grass, burrs, and "Buffalo Bill," a title given to William Cody, when
+he furnished buffalo meat for the U.P.R.R. builders and hunted with the
+Grand Duke Alexis, and has killed as high as sixty-nine in one day.
+
+I did not at the time of visiting North Platte think of writing up the
+country so generally, so did not make extra exertions to see and learn
+of the country as I should have done. And as there was a shower almost
+every afternoon of my stay, we did not get to drive out as Miss Arta
+and I had planned to do. North Platte, the county-seat of Lincoln
+county, is located 291 miles west of Omaha, and is 2,789 feet above the
+sea level, between and near the junction of the North and South Platte
+rivers. The U.P.R.R. was finished to this point first of December,
+1866, and at Christmas time there were twenty buildings erected on the
+town site. Before the advent of the railroad, when all provisions had
+to be freighted, one poor meal cost from one to two dollars.
+
+North Platte is now nicely built up with good homes and business
+houses, and rapidly improving in every way. The United States Land
+office of the western district embraces the government land of
+Cheyenne, Keith, Lincoln, a part of Dawson, Frontier, Gosper, and
+Custer counties and all unorganized territory. All I can see of the
+surrounding country is very level and is used for grazing land, as
+stock raising is the principal occupation of the people. Alkali is
+quite visible on the surface, but Mrs. C. says both it and the sand are
+fast disappearing, and the rainfall increasing. No trees to be seen but
+those which have been cultivated.
+
+Mrs. C. in speaking of the insatiable appetite and stealthy habits of
+the Indians, told of a dinner she had prepared at a great expense and
+painstaking for six officers of Ft. McPherson, whom Mr. C. had invited
+to share with him, and while she was receiving them at the front door
+six Indians entered at a rear door, surrounded the table, and without
+ceremony or carving knife, were devouring her nicely roasted chickens
+and highly enjoying the good things they had found when they were
+discovered, which was not until she led the way to the dining room,
+thinking with so much pride of the delicacies she had prepared, and how
+they would enjoy it.
+
+"Well, the dinner was completely spoiled by the six uninvited guests,
+but while I cried with mortification, the officers laughed and enjoyed
+the joke."
+
+Ft. McPherson was located eighteen miles east of North Platte, but was
+abandoned four years ago.
+
+Notwithstanding their kindness and entertaining home I was anxious to
+be on the home way, and biding Mrs. C. and Arta good-bye at the depot,
+I left Monday evening for Plum Creek.
+
+How little I thought when I kissed the dear child Orra good-bye, and
+whom I had already learned to love, that I would have the sad duty of
+adding a tribute to her memory. Together we took my last walk about
+their home, gathering pebbles from their gravel walks, flowers from the
+lawn and leaves from the trees, for me to carry away.
+
+I left her a very happy child over the anticipation of a trip to the
+east where the family would join Mr. Cody for some time. I cannot do
+better than to quote from a letter received from the sorrow-stricken
+mother.
+
+"Orra, my precious darling, that promised so fair, was called from us
+on the 24th of October, '83, and we carried her remains to Rochester,
+N. Y., and laid them by the side of her little brother, in a grave
+lined with evergreens and flowers. When we visited the sacred spot last
+summer, she said: 'Mamma, won't you lay me by brother's side when I
+die?' Oh, how soon we have had to grant her request! If it was not for
+the hope of heaven and again meeting there, my affliction would be more
+than I could bear, but I have consigned her to Him who gave my lovely
+child to me for these short years, and can say, 'Thy will be done.'"
+
+Night traveling again debarred our seeing much that would have been
+interesting, but it was my most convenient train, and an elderly lady
+from Ft. Collins, Colorado, made the way pleasant by telling of how
+they had gone to Colorado from Iowa, four years ago, and now could not
+be induced to return. Lived at the foot of mountains that had never
+been without a snow-cap since she first saw them.
+
+Arrived at Plum Creek about ten o'clock, and as I had no friends to
+meet me here, asked to be directed to a hotel, and remarked that we
+preferred a temperance hotel. "That's all the kind we keep here," the
+gentleman replied with an injured air, and I was shown to the Johnston
+House.
+
+I had written to old friends and neighbors who had left Pennsylvania
+about a year ago, and located twenty-five miles south-west of Plum
+creek, to meet me here; but letters do not find their way out to the
+little sod post-offices very promptly, and as I waited their coming
+Tuesday, I spent the day in gathering of the early history of Plum
+Creek.
+
+Through the kindness of Mrs. E. D. Johnston, we were introduced to
+Judge R. B. Pierce, who came from Maryland to Plum Creek, in April,
+1873, and was soon after elected county judge, which office he still
+holds. He told how they had found no signs of a town but a station
+house, and lived in box-cars with a family of five children until he
+built a house, which was the first dwelling-house on the present
+town-site. One Daniel Freeman had located and platted a town-site one
+mile east, but the railroad company located the station just a mile
+further west.
+
+Judge Pierce gave me a supplement of the Dawson County _Pioneer_,
+of date July 20th, 1876, from which I gather the following history:
+
+"On June 26th, 1871, Gov. W. H. James issued a proclamation for the
+organization of the county. At the first election, held July 11, '71,
+at the store of D. Freeman, there were but thirteen votes cast, and the
+entire population of the county did not exceed forty souls, all told.
+But the Centennial Fourth found a population of 2,716 prosperous
+people, 614 of whom are residents of Plum Creek, which was incorporated
+March, 1874, and named for a creek a few miles east tributary to the
+Platte; and which in old staging days was an important point.
+
+"The creek rises in a bluffy region and flows north-east, the bluffs
+affording good hiding places for the stealthy Indians.
+
+"Among the improvements of the time is a bridge spanning the Platte
+river, three miles south of the town, the completion of which was
+celebrated July 4th, '73, and was the first river bridge west of
+Columbus.
+
+"In '74 the court house was built. We will quote in full of the
+churches, to show that those who go west do not always leave their
+religion behind. As early as 1867, the Rev. Father Ryan, of the
+Catholic church, held services at the old station house. In the fall of
+'72, Rev. W. Wilson organized the first Methodist society in the
+county, with a membership of about thirty. In April, '74, Right Rev.
+Bishop Clarkson organized Plum Creek parish, and a church was built in
+'75, which was the first church built in the town. In '74 the
+Missionary Baptist Society was formed. In '73 the Presbyterian
+congregation was organized by Rev. S. M. Robinson, state missionary.
+
+"Settlements in Plum Creek precinct were like angels' visits, few and
+far between, until April 9th, 1872, when the Philadelphia Nebraska
+colony arrived, having left Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, April 2d, under
+charge of F. J. Pearson.
+
+"In this colony there were sixty-five men, women, and children. Their
+first habitation was four boxcars, kindly placed on a side track by the
+U.P.R.R. Co. for their use until they could build their houses."
+
+I met one of these colonists, B. F. Krier, editor _Pioneer_, whom I
+questioned as to their prosperity. He said: "Those who remained have
+done well, but some returned, and others have wandered, farther west,
+until there is not many of us left; only about eight families that are
+now residents of the town. We were so completely eaten out by the
+grasshoppers in '73-74, and in 78 there was a drought, and it was very
+discouraging."
+
+I thought of the sixty-five colonists who had just landed and drove
+their stakes in the soil of northern Nebraska, and hoped they may be
+driven deep and firm, and their trials be less severe.
+
+"The Union Pacific windmill was their only guide to lead them over the
+treeless, stoneless, trackless prairie, and served the purpose of
+light-house to many a prairie-bewildered traveler. A few days after
+they landed, they had an Indian scare. But the seven Sioux, whose
+mission was supposed to be that of looking after horses to steal,
+seeing they were prepared for them, turned and rode off. Six miles west
+of Plum Creek in 1867, the Indians wrecked a freight train, in which
+two men were killed, and two escaped; one minus a scalp, but still
+living."
+
+Mrs. E. D. Johnston told of how they came in 1873, and opened a hotel
+in a 16x20 shanty, with a sod kitchen attached; and how the cattle men,
+who were their principal stoppers, slept on boxes and in any way they
+could, while they enlarged their hotel at different times until it is
+now the Johnston House, the largest and best hotel in Plum Creek.
+
+While interviewing Judge Pierce, a man entered the office, to transact
+some business, and as he left, the Judge remarked--
+
+"That man came to me to be married about a year ago, and I asked him
+how old the lady was he wished to marry. 'Just fifteen,' he answered. I
+can't grant you a license, then; you will have to wait a year. 'Wait?'
+No; he got a buggy, drove post-haste down into Kansas, and was married.
+He lives near your friends, and if you wish I will see if he can take
+you out with him." So, through his help, I took passage in Mr. John
+Anderson's wagon, Wednesday noon, along with his young wife, and a
+family just from Luzerne county, Pennsylvania.
+
+The wind was strong and the sun warm, but I was eager to improve even
+this opportunity to get to my friends.
+
+Going south-east from Plum Creek, we pass over land that is quite white
+with alkali, but beyond the river there is little surface indication of
+it. For the novelty of crossing the Platte river on foot, I walked the
+bridge, one mile in length, and when almost across met Mr. Joseph
+Butterbaugh--our old neighbor--coming to town, and who was greatly
+surprised, as they had not received my letter.
+
+We had not gone far until our faces were burning with the hot wind and
+sun, and for a protection we tied our handkerchiefs across our faces,
+just below our eyes. The load was heavy, and we went slowly west along
+the green valley, the river away to our right, and a range of bluffs to
+our left, which increase in height as we go westward. Passed finely
+improved homes that had been taken by the first settlers, and others
+where the new beginners yet lived in their "brown stone fronts" (sod
+houses).
+
+Four years ago this valley was occupied by Texas cattle, 3,000 in one
+herd, making it dangerous for travelers.
+
+Stopped for a drink at a large and very neat story and a-half sod house
+built with an L; shingled roof, and walls as smooth and white as any
+lathed and plastered walls, and can be papered as well. Sod houses are
+built right on the top of the ground, without the digging or building
+of a foundation. The sod is plowed and cut the desired size, and then
+built the same as brick, placing the grassy side down. The heat of the
+summer can hardly penetrate the thick walls, and, too, they prove a
+good protection from the cold winds of winter. Sod corrals are used for
+sheep.
+
+Almost every family have their "western post-office:" a little box
+nailed to a post near the road, where the mail carrier deposits and
+receives the mail.
+
+Now for many miles west the government land is taken, and the railroad
+land bought. Much of the land is cultivated and the rest used for
+pasture. The corn is just peeping through the sod.
+
+Passed two school houses, one a sod, and the other an 8x10 frame, where
+the teacher received twenty-five dollars per month. It is also used for
+holding preaching, Sunday School, and society meetings in.
+
+It is twenty miles to Mr. Anderson's home, and it is now dark; but the
+stars creep out from the ether blue, and the new moon looks down upon
+us lonely travelers. "Oh, moon, before you have waned, may I be safe in
+my own native land!" I wished, when I first saw its golden crest. I
+know dear mother will be wishing the same for me, and involuntarily
+sang:
+
+ "I gaze on the moon as I tread the drear wild,
+ And feel that my mother now thinks of her child,
+ As she looks on that moon from our own cottage door,
+ Thro' the woodbine whose fragrance shall cheer me some more."
+
+I could not say "no more." To chase sadness away I sang, and was joined
+by Mr. A., who was familiar with the songs of the old "Key Note," and
+together we sang many of the dear old familiar pieces. But none could I
+sing with more emphasis than--
+
+ "Oh give me back my native hills,
+ Rough, rugged though they be,
+ No other land, no other clime
+ Is half so dear to me."
+
+But I struck the key note of his heart when I sang, "There's a light in
+the window for thee," in which he joined at first, but stopped, saying:
+
+"I can't sing that; 'twas the last song I sung with my brothers and
+sisters the night before I left my Kentucky home, nine years ago, and I
+don't think I have tried to sing it since."
+
+All along the valley faint lights glimmered from lonely little homes. I
+thought every cottager should have an Alpine horn, and as the sun goes
+down, a "good night" shouted from east to west along the valley, until
+it echoed from bluff to bluff.
+
+But the longest journey must have an end, and at last we halted at Mr.
+A.'s door, too late for me to go farther. But was off early in the
+morning on horseback, with Zeke Butterbaugh, who was herding for Mr.
+A., to take his mother by surprise, and breakfast with her.
+
+Well, reader, I would not ask anyone, even my worst enemy, to go with
+me on that morning ride.
+
+Rough?
+
+There now, don't say anything more about it. It is good to forget some
+things; I can feel the top of my head flying off yet with every jolt,
+as that horse _tried_ to trot--perhaps it was my poke hat that was
+coming off. If the poor animal had had a shoe on, I would have quoted
+Mark Twain, hung my hat on its ear and looked for a nail in its foot.
+
+When we reached Mrs. B.'s home, we found it deserted, and we had to go
+three miles farther on. Six miles before breakfast.
+
+"Now, Zeke, we will go direct; take straight across and I will follow:
+mind, we don't want to be going round many corners."
+
+"Well, watch, or your horse will tramp in a gopher hole and throw you;
+can you stand another trot?"
+
+And I would switch my trotter, but would soon have to rein him up, and
+laugh at my attempt at riding.
+
+It was not long until we were within sight of the house where Zeke's
+sister lived, and when within hearing distance we ordered--"Breakfast
+for two!" When near the house we concentrated all our equestrian skill
+into a "grand gallop."
+
+Mrs. B. and Lydia were watching and wondering who was coming; but my
+laugh betrayed me, and when we drew reins on our noble ponies at the
+door, I was received with: "I just knew that was Pet Fulton by the
+laugh;" and as I slipped down, right into their arms, I thought after
+all the ride was well worth the taking, and the morning a grand one.
+Rising before the sun, I watched its coming, and the mirage on the
+river, showing distinctly the river, islands, and towns; but all faded
+away as the mirage died out, and then the ride over the green prairie,
+bright with flowers, and at eight o'clock breakfasting with old
+friends.
+
+We swung around the circle of Indiana county friends, the Butterbaughs
+and Fairbanks, until Monday. Must say I enjoyed the _swing_ very
+much. Took a long ramble over the bluffs that range east and west, a
+half mile south of Mr. J. B.'s home. Climbed bluff after bluff, only to
+come to a jumping off place of from 50 to 100 feet straight down. To
+peer over these places required a good deal of nerve, but I held tight
+to the grass or a soap weed stalk, and looked. We climbed to the top of
+one of the highest, from which we could see across the valley to the
+Platte river three miles away--the river a mile in width, and the wide
+valley beyond, to the bluffs that range along its northern bounds. The
+U.P.R.R. runs on the north side of the river, and Mr. B. says the
+trains can be seen for forty miles. Plum Creek, twenty miles to the
+east, is in plain view, the buildings quite distinguishable. Then comes
+Cozad, Willow Island--almost opposite, and Gothenburg, where the first
+house was built last February, and now has about twenty. I would add
+the following from a letter received Dec. 21, '83:
+
+Gothenburg has now 40 good buildings, and in the county where but five
+families lived in the spring of '82, now are 300, and that number is to
+be more than doubled by spring.
+
+But to the bluffs again. To the south, east, and west, it is wave after
+wave of bluffs covered with buffalo grass; not a tree or bush in sight
+until we get down into the canyons, which wind around among the hills
+and bluffs like a grassy stream, without a drop of water, stone or
+pebble; now it is only a brook in width, now a creek, and almost a
+river. The pockets that line the canyons are like great chambers, and
+are of every size, shape and height. A clay like soil they call
+calcine, in strata from white to reddish brown, forms their walls. They
+seemed like excellent homes for wild cats, and as we were only armed
+with a sunflower stalk which we used for a staff (how aesthetic we have
+grown since coming west!) we did not care to prospect--would much
+rather look at the deer tracks.
+
+The timber in the canyons are ash, elm, hackberry, box elder, and
+cottonwood, but Mr. B. has to go fifteen miles for wood as it is all
+taken near him. Wild plums, choke cherries, currants, mountain
+cranberries, and snow berries grow in wild profusion, and are overrun
+with grape-vines.
+
+Found a very pretty pincushion cactus in bloom, and I thought to bring
+it home to transplant; but cactus are not "fine" for bouquets nor
+fragrant; and if they were, who would risk a smell at a cactus flower?
+But I did think I would like a prairie dog for a pet, and a full grown
+doggie was caught and boxed for me. Had a great mind to attempt
+bringing a jack rabbit also, and open up a Nebraska menagerie when I
+returned. Jack rabbits are larger than the common rabbits and very
+deceitful, and if shot at will pretend they are hurt, even if not
+touched. A hunter from the east shot at one, and seeing it hop off so
+lame, threw down his gun and ran to catch it--well, he didn't catch the
+rabbit, and spent two days in searching before he found his gun.
+
+_Sunday._ We attended Sabbath school in the sod school house, and
+Monday morning early were off on the long ride back to Plum creek with
+Mr. and Mrs. H. Fairbanks and Miss Laura F. We picnicked at dinner
+time. Under a shade tree? No, indeed; not a tree to be seen--only a few
+willows on the islands in the river, showing that where it is protected
+from fires, timber will grow. But in a few years this valley will be a
+garden of cultivated timber and fields. I must speak of the brightest
+flower that is blooming on it now; 'tis the buffalo pea, with blossoms
+same as our flowering pea, in shape, color, and fragrance, but it is
+not a climber. How could it be, unless it twined round a grass stalk?
+
+The Platte valley is from six to fifteen miles wide, but much the
+widest part of the valley is north of the river. The bluffs on the
+north are rolling, and on the south abrupt. In the little stretch of
+the valley that I have seen, there is no sand worthy of notice. Water
+is obtained at from twenty to fifty feet on the valley, but on the
+table-land at a much greater depth. Before we reached the bridge, we
+heard it was broken down, and no one could cross. "Cannot we ford it?"
+I asked. "No, the quicksand makes it dangerous." "Can we cross on a
+boat, then?" "A boat would soon stick on a sand bar. No way of crossing
+if the bridge is down." But we found the bridge so tied together that
+pedestrians could cross. As I stooped to dip my hand in the muddy waves
+of the Platte I thought it was little to be admired but for its width,
+and the few green islands. The banks are low, and destitute of
+everything but grass.
+
+The Platte river is about 1,200 miles long. It is formed by the uniting
+of the South Platte that rises in Colorado, and the North Platte that
+rises in Wyoming. Running east through Nebraska, it divides into the
+North and South Platte. About two-thirds of the state being on the
+north. It finds an outlet in the Missouri river at Plattsmouth, Neb. It
+has a fall of about 5 feet to the mile, and is broad, shallow, and
+rapid--running over a great bed of sand that is constantly washing and
+changing, and so mingled with the waters that it robs it of its
+brightness. Its shallowness is thought to be owing to a system of under
+ground drainage through a bed of sand, and supplies the Republican
+river in the southern part of the state, which is 352 feet lower than
+the Platte.
+
+We were fortunate in securing a hack for the remaining three miles of
+our journey, and ten o'clock found me waiting for the eastern bound
+train. I would add that Plum Creek now has a population of 600. I have
+described Dawson county more fully as it was in Central Nebraska our
+colony first thought of locating, and a number of them have bought
+large tracts of land in the south-western part of the county. That the
+Platte valley is very fertile is beyond a doubt. It is useless to give
+depth of soil and its production, but will add the following:
+
+Mr. Joseph Butterbaugh reports for his harvest of 1883, 778 bushels
+wheat from 35 acres. Corn averaged 35 bushels, shelled; oats 25 to 30;
+and barley about 40 bushels per acre.
+
+First frost was on the 9th of October. Winter generally begins last of
+December, and ends with February. The hottest day of last summer was
+108 degrees in the shade. January 1, 1884, it was 8 degrees below,
+which is the lowest it has yet (January 15) fallen, and has been as
+high as 36 above since.
+
+The next point of interest on the road is Kearney, where the B. &
+M.R.R. forms a junction with the U.P.R.R.
+
+In looking over the early history of Buffalo county we find it much the
+same, except in dates a little earlier than that of Dawson county.
+First settlers in the county were Mormons, in 1858, but all left in
+'63. The county was not organized until in '70, and the first tax list
+shows but thirty-eight names. Kearney, the county-seat, is on the north
+side of the river 200 miles west and little south of Omaha, and 160
+miles west of Lincoln. Lots in Kearney was first offered for sale in
+'72, but the town was not properly organized until in '73. Since that
+time its growth has been rapid; building on a solid foundation and
+bringing its churches and schools with it, and now has under good way a
+canal to utilize the waters of the Platte.
+
+Fremont the "Forest City," is truly so named from the many trees that
+hide much of the city from view, large heavy bodied trees of poplar,
+maple, box elder, and many others that have been cultivated. Fremont,
+named in honor of General Fremont and his great overland tour in 1842
+and, was platted in 1855 on lands which the Pawnee Indians had claimed
+but which had been bought from them, receiving $20,000 in gold and
+silver and $20,000 in goods. In '56 Mr. S. Turner swam the Platte river
+and towed the logs across that built the old stage house which his
+mother Mrs. Margaret Turner kept, but which has given way to the large
+and commodious "New York Hotel." The 4th of July, '56, was celebrated
+at Fremont by about one hundred whites and a multitude of Indians; but
+now it can boast of over 5,000 inhabitants, fine schools and churches.
+It is the junction of the U.P.R.R. and the S.C. & P.R.R. I must
+add that it was the only place of all that I visited where I found any
+sickness, and that was on the decrease, but diphtheria had been bad for
+some time, owing, some thought, to the use of water obtained too near
+the surface, and the many shade trees, as some of the houses are
+entirely obscured from the direct rays of the sun.
+
+I will not attempt to touch on the country as we neared Omaha along
+the way, as it is all improved lands, and I do not like its appearance
+as well as much of the unimproved land I have seen. We reached Omaha
+about seven o'clock. I took a carriage for the Millard hotel and had
+breakfast. At the request of my brother I called on Mr. Leavitt
+Burnham, who has held the office of Land Commissioner of the U.P.R.R.
+land company since 1878, and fills it honestly and well.
+
+Omaha, the "Grand Gateway of the West," was named for the Omaha
+Indians, who were the original landholders, but with whom a treaty was
+made in 1853. William D. Brown, who for two or three years had been
+ferrying the "Pike's Peak or bust" gold hunters from Iowa to Nebraska
+shores, and "busted" from Nebraska to Iowa, in disgust entered the
+present site of Omaha, then known as the Lone Tree Ferry, as a
+homestead in the same year. In the next year the city of Omaha was
+founded. The "General Marion" was the first ferry steamer that plied
+across the Missouri at this point, for not until in '68 was the bridge
+completed. All honor to the name of Harrison Johnston, who plowed the
+first furrow of which there is any record, paying the Indians ten
+dollars for the permit. He also built the first frame house in Omaha,
+and which is yet standing near the old Capitol on Capitol Hill.
+
+The first religious services held in Omaha were under an arbor erected
+for the first celebration of the Fourth of July, by Rev. I. Heaton,
+Congregationalist. Council Bluffs, just opposite Omaha, on the Iowa
+shore, was, in the early days, used as a "camping ground" by the
+Mormons, where they gathered until a sufficient number was ready to
+make a train and take up the line of march over the then great barren
+plains of Nebraska. Omaha is situated on a plateau, over fifty feet
+above the river, which is navigable for steamers only at high water
+tides. It is 500 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles north of St. Louis.
+It was the capital of Nebraska until it was made a state. What Omaha
+now is would be vain for me to attempt to tell. That it is Nebraska's
+principal city, with 40,000 inhabitants, is all-sufficient.
+
+I had written my friends living near Lincoln to meet me on Monday, and
+as this was Tuesday there was no one to meet me when I reached Lincoln,
+about four o'clock. Giving my baggage in charge of the baggage-master,
+and asking him to take good care of my doggie, I asked to be directed
+to a hotel, and left word where my friends would find me. The Arlington
+House was crowded, and then I grew determined to in some way reach my
+friends. Had I known where they lived I could have employed a liveryman
+to take me to them. I knew they lived four miles west of Lincoln, and
+that was all. Well, I thought, there cannot be many homoeopathic
+physicians in Lincoln, and one of them will surely know where Gardners
+live, for their doctor was often called when living in Pennsylvania.
+But a better thought came--that of the Baptist minister, as they
+attended that church. I told the clerk at the hotel my dilemma, and
+through his kindness I learned where the minister lived, whom, after a
+long walk, I found. "I am sorry I have no way of taking you to your
+friends, but as it is late we would be glad to have you stop with us
+to-night, and we will find a way to-morrow." I thankfully declined his
+kind offer, and he then directed me to Deacon Keefer's, where Cousin
+Gertrude made her home while attending school. After another rather
+long walk, tired and bewildered, I made inquiry of a gentleman I met.
+"Keefer? Do they keep a boarding-house?" "I believe so." "Ah, well, if
+you will follow me I will show you right to the house." Another mile
+walk, and it wasn't the right Keefer's; but they searched the City
+Directory, and found that I had to more than retrace my steps. "Since I
+have taken you so far out of your way, Miss, I will help you to find
+the right place," and at last swung open the right gate; and as I stood
+waiting an answer to my ring, I thought I had seen about all of Lincoln
+in my walking up and down--at least all I cared to. But the welcome
+"Trude's Cousin Pet" received from the Keefer family, added to the
+kindness others had shown me, robbed my discomfiture of much of its
+unpleasantness. Soon another plate was added to the tea-table, and I
+was seated drinking iced-tea and eating strawberries from their own
+garden, as though I was an old friend, instead of a straggling
+stranger. Through it all I learned a lesson of kindness that nothing
+but experience could have taught me. After tea Mr. Ed and Miss Marcia
+Keefer drove me out to my friends, and as I told them how I thought of
+finding them through the doctors, Cousin Maggie said: "Well, my girlie,
+you would have failed in that, for in the four years we have lived in
+Nebraska we have never had to employ a doctor."
+
+And, reader, now "let's take a rest," but wish to add before closing
+this chapter, that the U.P.R.R. was the first road built in Nebraska.
+Ground was broken at Omaha, December 2, 1863, but '65 found only forty
+miles of track laid. The road reached Julesburg, now Denver Junction,
+in June, '67, and the "golden spike" driven May 10, 1869, which
+connected the Union Pacific with the Central Pacific railroad, and was
+the first railroad that spanned the continent. The present mileage is
+4,652 miles, and several hundred miles is in course of construction. J.
+W. Morse, of Omaha, is general passenger agent. The lands the company
+yet have for sale are in Custer, Lincoln, and Cheyenne counties, where
+some government land is yet to be had.
+
+A colony, known as the "Ex-Soldiers' Colony," was formed in Lincoln,
+Nebraska, in 1883. It accepted members from everywhere, and now April
+24, '84, shows a roll of over two hundred members, many of whom have
+gone to the location, forty miles north-east of North Platte, in
+unorganized territory, and near the Loup river. Six hundred and forty
+acres were platted into a town site in spring of '84, and named Logan,
+in honor of Gen. John A. Logan. Quite a number are already occupying
+their town lots, and building permanent homes, and most of the land
+within reach has been claimed by the colonists. The land is all
+government land, of which about one-half is good farming land, and rest
+fit only for grazing.
+
+This is only one of the many colonies that have been planted on
+Nebraska soil thus early in '84, but is one that will be watched with
+much interest, composed as it is of the good old "boys in blue."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Over the B. & M.R.R. from Lincoln to McCook, via Wymore, and return via
+Hastings.--A description of the Republican and Blue Valleys.--The
+Saratoga of Nebraska.
+
+
+We rested just one delightful week, talking the old days over, making
+point lace, stealing the first ripe cherries, and pulling grass for
+"Danger"--danger of it biting me or getting away--my prairie dog, which
+had found a home in a barrel.
+
+One evening Cousin Andy said:
+
+"I'll give you twenty-five cents for your dog, Pet?"
+
+"Now, Cousin, don't insult the poor dog by such a price. They say they
+make nice pets, and I am going to take my dog home for Norval. But that
+reminds me I must give it some fresh grass," and away I went, gathering
+the tenderest, but, alas! the barrel was empty, and a hole gnawed in
+the side told the story.
+
+I wanted to sell the dog then, and would have taken almost any price
+for the naughty Danger, that, though full grown, was no bigger than a
+Norway rat; but no one seemed to want to buy him.
+
+The weather was very warm, but poor "Wiggins" was left on the parlor
+table in the hotel at Plum Creek one night, and in the morning I found
+him scalped, and all his prophetic powers destroyed, so we did not know
+just when to look out for a storm, but thunder storms, accompanied with
+heavy rains, came frequently during the week, generally at night, but
+by morning the ground would be in good working order.
+
+Our cousin, A. M. Gardner, formerly of Franklin, Pennsylvania, for
+several years was one of the fortunate oil men of the Venango county
+field, but a couple of years of adverse fortunes swept all, and leaving
+their beautiful home on Gardner's Hill, came west, and are now
+earnestly at work building upon a surer foundation.
+
+When I was ready to be off for Wymore, Tuesday, Salt Creek Valley was
+entirely covered with water, and even the high built road was so
+completely hidden that the drive over it was dangerous, but Cousin Rob
+Wilhelm took me as far as a horse could go, and thanks to a high-built
+railroad and my light luggage, we were able to walk the rest of the
+way. The overflow of Salt Creek Valley is not an uncommon occurrence in
+the spring of the year. This basin or valley covers about 500 acres,
+and is rather a barren looking spot. In dry weather the salt gathers
+until the ground is quite white, and before the days of railroads,
+settlers gathered salt for their cattle from this valley. The water has
+an ebb and flow, being highest in the morning and lowest in afternoon.
+
+I had been directed to call upon Mr. R. R. Randall, immigration agent
+of the B. & M.R.R., for information about southern Nebraska, and
+while I waited for the train, I called upon him in his office, on the
+third floor of the depot, and told him I had seen northern and central
+Nebraska, and was anxious to know all I could of southern Nebraska.
+
+After a few moments conversation, he asked:
+
+"What part of Pennsylvania are you from, Miss Fulton?"
+
+"Indiana county."
+
+"Indeed? why, I have been there to visit a good old auntie; but she is
+dead now, bless her dear soul," and straightway set about showing me
+all kindness and interest.
+
+At first I flattered myself that it was good to hail from the home of
+his "good old auntie," but I soon learned that I only received the same
+kindness and attention that every one does at his hands.
+
+"Now, Miss Fulton, I would like you to see all you can of southern
+Nebraska, and just tell the plain truth about it. For, remember, that
+truth is the great factor that leads to wealth and happiness;" then
+seeing me safe aboard the train, I was on my way to see more friends
+and more of the state.
+
+A young lady, who was a cripple, shared her seat with me, but her face
+was so mild and sweet I soon forgot the crutch at her side. She told me
+she was called home by the sudden illness of a brother, who was not
+expected to live, and whom she had not seen since in January last.
+
+Poor girl! I could truly sympathize with her through my own experience:
+I parted with a darling sister on her fifteenth birthday, and three
+months after her lifeless form was brought home to me without one word
+of warning, and I fully realized what it would be to receive word of my
+young brother, whom I had not seen since in January, being seriously
+ill. When her station was reached, the brakeman very kindly helped her
+off and my pleasant company was gone with my most earnest wishes that
+she might find her brother better.
+
+The sun was very bright and warm, and to watch the country hurt my
+eyes, so I gave my attention to the passengers. Before me sat a perfect
+snapper of a miss, so cross looking, and just the reverse in expression
+from her who had sat with me. Another lady was very richly dressed, but
+that was her most attractive feature; yet she was shown much attention
+by a number. Another was a mother with two sweet children, but so cold
+and dignified, I wondered she did not freeze the love of her little
+ones. Such people are as good as an arctic wave, and I enjoy them just
+as much. In the rear of the coach were a party of emigrants that look
+as though they had just crossed the briny wave. They are the first
+foreigners I have yet met with in the cars, and they go to join a
+settlement of their own countrymen. Foreigners locate as closely
+together as possible.
+
+I was just beginning to grow lonely when an elderly gentlemen whom I
+had noticed looking at me quite earnestly, came to me and asked:
+
+"Are you not going to Wymore, Miss?"
+
+"Yes, sir."
+
+"To Mr. Fulton's?"
+
+"Why, yes. You know my friends then?"
+
+"Yes, and it was your resemblance to one of the girls, that I knew
+where you were going."
+
+No one had ever before told me that I favored this cousin in looks, but
+then there are just as many different eyes in this world as there are
+different people.
+
+"I met Miss Emma at the depot a few days ago, and she was disappointed
+at the non-arrival of a cousin, and I knew at first glance that you was
+the one she had expected."
+
+"You know where they live then?"
+
+"Yes, and if there is no one at the train to meet you, I will see you
+to the house."
+
+With this kind offer, Mr. Burch, one of Wymore's bankers went back to
+his seat. As I had supposed, my friends had grown tired meeting me when
+I didn't come, as I had written to them I would be there the previous
+week. But Mr. Burch kindly took one of my satchels, and left me at my
+Uncle's door.
+
+"Bless me! here is Pet at last!" and dear Aunt Jane's arms are around
+me, and scolding me for disappointing them so often.
+
+"The girls and Ed have been to the depot so often, and I wanted them to
+go to-day, but they said they just knew you wouldn't come. I thought
+you would surely be here to eat your birthday dinner with us
+yesterday."
+
+"Well, Auntie, Salt Valley was overflooded, and I couldn't get to the
+depot; so I ate it with cousin Maggie. But that is the way; I come just
+when I am given up for good."
+
+Then came Uncle John, Emma, Annie, Mary, Ed, and Dorsie, with his
+motherless little Gracie and Arthur. After the first greeting was over,
+Aunt said:
+
+"What a blessing it is that Norval got well!"
+
+"Norval got well? Why Aunt, what do you mean?"
+
+"Didn't they write to you about his being so sick?"
+
+"No, not a word."
+
+"Well, he was very low with scarlet fever, but he is able to be about
+now."
+
+"Oh! how thankful I am! What if Norval had died, and I away!" And then
+I told of the lady I had met that was going to see her brother, perhaps
+already dead, and how it had brought with such force the thought of
+what such word would be to me about Norval. How little we know what God
+in His great loving kindness is sparing us!
+
+I cannot tell you all the pleasure of this visit. To be at "Uncle
+John's" was like being at home; for we had always lived in the same
+village and on adjoining farms. Then too, we all had the story of the
+year to tell since they had left Pennsylvania for Nebraska. But the
+saddest story of all was the death of Dorsie's wife, Mary Jane, and
+baby Ruth, with malaria fever.
+
+To tell you of this country, allow me to begin with Blue Springs--a
+town just one mile east, on the line of the U.P.R.R., and on the
+banks of the Big Blue river, which is a beautiful stream of great
+volume, and banks thickly wooded with heavy timber--honey locust, elm,
+box elder, burr oak, cottonwood, hickory, and black walnut. The trees
+and bushes grow down into the very water's edge, and dip their branches
+in its waves of blue. This river rises in Hamilton county, Nebraska,
+and joins the Republican river in Kansas. Is about 132 miles long.
+
+I cannot do better than to give you Mr. Tyler's story as he gave it to
+us. He is a hale, hearty man of 82 years, yet looks scarce 70; and just
+as genteel in his bearing as though his lot had ever been cast among
+the cultured of our eastern cities, instead of among the early settlers
+of Nebraska, as well as with the soldiers of the Mexican war. He says:
+
+"In 1859 I was going to join Johnston's army in Utah, but I landed in
+this place with only fifty cents in my pocket, and went to work for J.
+H. Johnston, who had taken the first claim, when the county was first
+surveyed and organized. About the only settlers here at that time were
+Jacob Poof, M. Stere, and Henry and Bill Elliott, for whom Bill creek
+is named. The houses were built of unhewn logs.
+
+"Soon after I came there was talk of a rich widow that was coming among
+us, and sure enough she did come, and bought the first house that had
+been built in Blue Springs (it was a double log house), and opened the
+first store. But we yet had to go to Brownville, 45 miles away, on the
+Missouri river for many things, as the 'rich widow's' capital was only
+three hundred dollars. Yet, that was a great sum to pioneer settlers.
+Indeed, it was few groceries we used; I have often made pies out of
+flour and water and green grapes without any sugar; and we thought them
+quite a treat. But we used a good deal of corn, which was ground in a
+sheet-iron mill that would hold about two quarts, and which was nailed
+to a post for everybody to use.
+
+"Well, we thought we must have a Fourth of July that year, and for two
+months before, we told every one that passed this way to come, and tell
+everybody else to come. And come they did--walking, riding in ox
+wagons, and any way at all--until in all there was 150 of us. The
+ladies in sunbonnets and very plain dresses; there was one silk dress
+in the crowd, and some of the men shoeless. Everyone brought all the
+dishes they had along, and we had quite a dinner on fried fish and corn
+dodgers. For three days before, men had been fishing and grinding corn.
+The river was full of catfish which weighed from 6 to 80 pounds. We
+sent to Brownville, and bought a fat pig to fry our fish and dodgers
+with. A Mr. Garber read the Declaration of Independence, we sang some
+war songs, and ended with a dance that lasted until broad daylight.
+Very little whiskey was used, and there was no disturbance of any kind.
+So our first 'Fourth' in Blue Springs was a success. I worked all
+summer for fifty cents per day, and took my pay in corn which the widow
+bought at 30 cents per bushel. I was a widower, and--well, that corn
+money paid our marriage fee in the spring of '60. One year I sold 500
+bushels of corn at a dollar per bushel to travelers and freighters, as
+this is near the old road to Ft. Kearney. With that money, I bought 160
+acres of land, just across the river, in '65, and sold it in '72 for
+$2,000. It could not now be bought for $5,000.
+
+"The Sioux Indians gave us a scare in '61, but we all gathered together
+in our big house (the widow's and mine), and the twelve men of us
+prepared to give them battle; but they were more anxious to give battle
+to the Otoe Indians on the reservation.
+
+"The Otoe Indians only bothered us by always begging for 'their poor
+pappoose.' My wife gave them leave to take some pumpkins out of the
+field, and the first thing we knew, they were hauling them away with
+their ponies.
+
+"Our first religious service was in '61, by a M.E. minister from
+Beatrice. Our first doctor in '63. We received our mail once a week
+from Nebraska City, 150 miles away. The postmaster received two dollars
+a year salary, but the mail was all kept in a cigar box, and everybody
+went and got their own mail. It afterward was carried from Mission
+Creek, 12 miles away, by a boy that was hired to go every Sunday
+morning. The U.P.R.R. was built in '80.
+
+"My wife and I visited our friends in Eastern Pennsylvania, and
+surprised them with our genteel appearance. They thought, from the life
+we led, we would be little better than the savages. My brothers wanted
+me to remain east, but I felt penned up in the city where I couldn't
+see farther than across the street, and I told them: 'You can run out
+to New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and around in a few hours, but how
+much of this great country do you see? No, I will go back to my home on
+the Blue.' I am the only one of the old settlers left, and everybody
+calls me 'Pap Tyler.'"
+
+I prolonged my visit until the 5th of July that I might see what the
+Fourth of '83 would be in Blue Springs. It was ushered in with the boom
+of guns and ringing of bells, and instead of the 150 of '59, there were
+about 4,000 gathered with the bright morning. Of course there were old
+ladies with bonnets, aside, and rude men smoking, but there was not
+that lack of intelligence and refinement one might expect to find in a
+country yet so comparatively new. I thought, as I looked over the
+people, could our eastern towns do better? And only one intoxicated
+man. I marked him--fifth drunken man I have seen since entering the
+state. The programme of the day was as follows:
+
+ SONG--_The Red, White, and Blue_.
+
+ DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE--Recited by Minnie Marsham, a miss of
+ twelve years.
+
+ SONG--_Night Before the Battle_.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Schools_. Responded to by J. C. Burch.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Railroads_. Rev. J. M. Pryse.
+
+ MUSIC--By the band.
+
+ TOAST--_Our Neighbors_. Rev. E. H. Burrington.
+
+Rev. H. W. Warner closed the toasting with, "How, When, and Why," and
+with the song, "The Flag Without a Stain," all adjourned for their
+dinners.
+
+Mr. and Mrs. Tyler invited me to go with them, but I preferred to eat
+my dinner under the flag with a stain--a rebel flag of eleven stars and
+three stripes--a captured relic of the late war that hung at half mast.
+
+In afternoon they gathered again to listen to "Pap Tyler" and Pete Tom
+tell of the early days. But the usual 4th of July storm scattered the
+celebrators and spoiled the evening display of fire-works.
+
+
+WYMORE
+
+Is beautifully located near Indian Creek and Blue River. It was almost
+an undisturbed prairie until the B. & M.R.R. came this way in the
+spring of '81, and then, Topsy-like, it "dis growed right up out of the
+ground," and became a railroad division town. The plot covers 640
+acres, a part of which was Samuel Wymore's homestead, who settled here
+sixteen years ago, and it does appear that every lot will be needed.
+
+One can scarce think that where but two years ago a dozen little
+shanties held all the people of Wymore, now are so many neatly built
+homes and even elegant residences sheltering over 2,500. To tell you
+what it now is would take too long. Three papers, three banks, a neat
+Congregational church; Methodists hold meetings in the opera hall,
+Presbyterians in the school-house; both expect to have churches of
+their own within a year; with all the business houses of a rising
+western town crowded in. A fine quarry of lime-stone just south on
+Indian Creek which has greatly helped the building up of Wymore. The
+heavy groves of trees along the creeks and rivers are certainly a
+feature of beauty. The days were oppressively warm, but the nights cool
+and the evenings delightful. The sunset's picture I have looked upon
+almost every evening here is beyond the skill of the painter's brush,
+or the writer's pen to portray. Truly "sunset is the soul of the day."
+
+It is thought that in the near future Wymore and Blue Springs will
+shake hands across Bill creek and be one city. Success to the shake.
+
+The Otoe Indian reservation lies but a mile south-east of Wymore. It is
+a tract of land that was given to the Otoe Indians in 1854, but
+one-half was sold five years ago. It now extends ten miles north and
+south, and six and three-fourths miles east and west, and extends two
+miles into Kansas. I will quote a few notes I took on a trip over it
+with Uncle John, Annie, and Mary.
+
+Left Wymore eight o'clock, drove through Blue Springs, crossed the Blue
+on the bridge above the mill where the river is 150 feet wide, went six
+miles and crossed Wild Cat creek, two miles south and crossed another
+creek, two miles further to Liberty, a town with a population of 800,
+on the B. & M.R.R., on, on, we went, going north, east, south, and
+west, and cutting across, and down by the school building of the
+agency, a fine building pleasantly located, with quite an orchard at
+the rear. Ate our lunch in the house that the agent had occupied.
+
+A new town is located at the U.P.R.R. depot, yet called "the Agency."
+It numbers twelve houses and all built since the lands were sold the
+30th of last May. Passed by some Indian graves, but I never had a
+"hankering" for dead Indians, so did not dig any up, as so many do. I
+felt real sorry that the poor Indian's last resting place was so
+desecrated. The men, and chiefs especially, are buried in a sitting
+posture, wrapped in their blankets, and their pony is killed and the
+head placed at the head of the grave and the tail tied to a pole and
+hoisted at the foot; but the women and children are buried with little
+ceremony, and no pony given them upon which to ride to the "happy
+hunting-ground."
+
+This tribe of Indians were among the best, but warring with other
+tribes decreased their number until but 400 were left to take up a new
+home in the Indian Territory.
+
+The land is rolling, soil black loam, and two feet or more deep; in
+places the grass was over a foot high. From Uncle's farm we could see
+Mission and Plum creeks, showing that the land is well watered. The sun
+was very warm, but with a covered carriage, and fanned with Nebraska
+breezes we were able to travel all the day. Did not reach home until
+the stars were shining.
+
+For the benefit of others, I want to tell of the wisest man I ever saw
+working corn. I am sorry I cannot tell just how his tent was attached
+to his cultivator, but it was a square frame covered with muslin, and
+the ends hanging over the sides several inches which acted as fans;
+minus a hat he was taking the weather cool. Now I believe in taking
+these days when it says 100 deg. in the shade, cool, and if you can't take
+them cool, take them as cool as you can any way. My thermometer did not
+do so, but left in the sun it ran as high as it could and then boiled
+over and broke the bulb.
+
+There were frequent showers and one or two storms, and though they came
+in the night, I was up and as near ready, as I could get, for a
+cyclone. Aunt Jane wants me to stay until a hot wind blows for a day or
+two, almost taking one's breath, filling the air with dust, and
+shriveling the leaves. But I leave her, wiping her eyes on the corner
+of her apron, while she throws an old shoe after me, and with Gracie
+and Arthur by the hand, I go to the depot to take the 4:45 P.M.
+train, July 5th.
+
+I cried once when I was bidding friends good bye, and had the rest all
+crying and feeling bad, so I made up my mind never to cry again at such
+a time if it was possible. I did not know that I would ever see these
+dear friends again, but I tried to think I would, and left them as
+though I would soon be back; and now I am going farther from home and
+friends.
+
+Out from Wymore, past fields of golden grain already in the sheaf, and
+nicely growing corn waving in the wind. Now it is gently rolling, and
+now bluffy, crossing many little streams, and now a great grassy
+meadow. But here is what I wrote, and as it may convey a better idea of
+the country, I will give my notes just as I took them as I rode along:
+
+
+ODELL,
+
+A town not so large by half as Wymore. Three great long corn cribs, yet
+well filled. About the only fence is the snow fence, used to prevent
+the snow from drifting into the cuts. Grass not so tall as seen on the
+Reservation. Here are nicely built homes, and the beginners' cabins
+hiding in the cosy places. Long furrows of breaking for next year's
+planting. The streams are so like narrow gullies, and so covered with
+bushes and trees that one has to look quick and close to see the dark
+muddy water that covers the bottom.
+
+
+DILLER,
+
+A small town, but I know the "Fourth" was here by the bowery or dancing
+platforms, and the flags that still wave. Great fields of corn and
+grassy stretches. Am watching the banks, and I do believe the soil is
+running out, only about a foot until it changes to a clay. Few homes.
+
+
+INDIAN CREEK.
+
+Conductor watching to show me the noted "Wild Bill's" cabin, and now
+just through the cut he points to a low log cabin, where Wild Bill
+killed four men out of six, who had come to take his life, and as they
+were in the wrong and he in the right, he received much praise, for
+thus ridding the world of worse than useless men, and so nobly
+defending government property, which they wanted to take out of his
+hands. There is the creek running close to the cabin, and up the hill
+from the stream is the road that was then the "Golden Trail," no longer
+used by gold seekers, pony-express riders, stage drivers, wild Indians,
+and emigrants that then went guarded by soldiers from Fort Kearney. The
+stream is so thickly wooded, I fancy it offered a good hiding place,
+and was one of the dangerous passes in the road; but here we are at
+
+
+ENDICOTT,
+
+A town some larger than those we have passed. Is situated near the
+centre of the southern part of Jefferson county. Now we are passing
+through a very fine country with winding streams. I stand at the rear
+door, and watch and write, but I cannot tell all.
+
+
+REYNOLDS,
+
+A small town. Low bluffs to our left, and Rose creek to the right. Good
+homes and also dug-outs. Cattle-corrals, long fields of corn not so
+good as some I have seen. The little houses cling close to the
+hillsides and are hemmed about with groves of trees. Wild roses in
+bloom, corn and oats getting smaller again; wonder if the country is
+running out? Here is a field smothered with sunflowers: wonder why
+Oscar Wilde didn't take a homestead here? Rose creek has crossed to the
+left; what a wilderness of small trees and bushes follow its course! I
+do declare! here's a real rail fence! but not a staken-rider fence.
+Would have told you more about it, but was past it so soon. Rather poor
+looking rye and oats. Few fields enclosed with barb-wire. Plenty of
+cattle grazing.
+
+
+HUBBELL.
+
+Four miles east of Rose creek; stream strong enough for mill power;
+only one mile north of Kansas. Train stops here for supper, but I shall
+wait and take mine with friends in Hardy. Hubbell is in Thayer county,
+which was organized in 1856. Town platted in '80, on the farm of
+Hubbell Johnston; has a population of 450. A good school house. I have
+since learned that this year's yield of oats was fifty to seventy-five,
+wheat twenty to thirty, corn thirty to seventy-five bushels per acre in
+this neighborhood. I walked up main street, with pencil and book in
+hand, and was referred to ---- ---- for information, who asked--
+
+"Are you writing for the _Inter Ocean_?"
+
+"No, I am not writing for any company," I replied.
+
+"I received a letter from the publishers a few days ago, saying that a
+lady would be here, writing up the Republican Valley for their
+publication."
+
+I was indeed glad, to know I had sisters in the same work.
+
+We pass Chester and Harbine, and just at sunset reach Hardy, Nuckolls
+county. I had written to my friend, Rev. J. Angus Lowe, to meet "an old
+schoolmate" at the train. He had grown so tall and ministerial looking
+since we had last met, that I did not recognize him, and he allowed me
+to pass him while he peered into the faces of the men. But soon I heard
+some one say, "I declare, it's Belle Fulton," and grasping my hand,
+gives me a hearty greeting. Then he led me to his neat little home just
+beyond the Lutheran church, quite a nicely finished building that
+points its spire heavenward through his labors.
+
+The evening and much of the night is passed before I have answered all
+the questions, and told all about his brothers and sisters and the
+friends of our native village. The next day he took his wife and three
+little ones and myself on a long drive into Kansas to show me the
+beauties of the "Garden of the West."
+
+The Republican river leaves Nebraska a little west of Hardy, and we
+cross it a mile south. The water of the river is clear and sparkling,
+and has a rapid flow. Then over what is called "first bottom" land,
+with tall, waving grass, and brightened with clusters of flowers. The
+prettiest is the buffalo moss, a bright red flower, so like our
+portulacca that one would take its clusters for beds of that flower.
+While the sensitive rose grows in clusters of tiny, downy balls, of a
+faint pink, with a delicate fragrance like that of the sweet brier.
+They grow on a low, trailing vine, covered with fine thorns; leaves
+sensitive. I gathered of these flowers for pressing.
+
+Now we are on second bottom land. Corn! Corn! It makes me tired to
+think of little girls dropping pumpkin seeds in but one row of these
+great fields, some a mile long, and so well worked, there is scarcely a
+weed to be seen. Some are working their corn for the last time. It is
+almost ready to hang its tassel in the breeze. The broad blades make
+one great sea of green on all sides of us. Fine timber cultures of
+black walnut, maple, box elder, and cottonwood. Stopped for dinner with
+Mrs. Stover, one of Mr. Lowe's church people. They located here some
+years ago, and now have a nicely improved home. I was shown their milk
+house, with a stream of water flowing through it, pumped by a
+wind-mill. Well, I thought, it is not so hard to give up our springs
+when one can have such conveniences as this, and have flowing water in
+any direction.
+
+I was thankful to my friends for the view of the land of "smoky
+waters," but it seemed a necessity that I close my visit with them and
+go on to Red Cloud, much as I would liked to have prolonged my stay
+with them. Mr. Lowe said as he bade me good-bye: "You are the first one
+who has visited us from Pennsylvania, and it does seem we cannot have
+you go so soon, yet this short stay has been a great pleasure to us." I
+was almost yielding to their entreaties but my plans were laid, and I
+_must_ go, and sunset saw me off.
+
+All the country seen before dark was very pretty. Passing over a bridge
+I was told: "This is Dry Creek." Sure enough--sandy bed and banks,
+trees, bushes and bridge, everything but the water; and it is there
+only in wet weather.
+
+I have been told of two streams called Lost creeks that rise five miles
+north-west of Hardy, and flow in parallel lines with each other for
+several miles, when they are both suddenly lost in a subterranean
+passage, and are not seen again until they flow out on the north banks
+of the Republican.
+
+So, reader, if you hear tell of a Dry Creek or Lost Creek, you will
+know what they are.
+
+
+SUPERIOR
+
+Is a nicely built town of 800 inhabitants, situated on a plateau. The
+Republican river is bridged here, and a large mill built. I did not
+catch the name as the brakeman sang it out, and I asked of one I
+thought was only a mere school boy, who answered: "I did not
+understand, but will learn." Coming back, he informs me with much
+emphasis that it is Superior, and straightway goes off enlarging on
+the beauties and excellences of the country, and of the fossil remains
+he has gathered in the Republican Valley, adding: "Oh! I _just love_
+to go fossiling! Don't you _love_ to go fossiling, Miss?"
+
+"I don't know, I never went," I replied, and had a mind to add, "I know
+it is just too _lovely_ for _anything_."
+
+It was not necessary for him to say he was from the east, we eastern
+people soon tell where we are from if we talk at all, and if we do not
+tell it in words our manners and tones do. New Englanders, New Yorkers,
+and Pennamites all have their own way of saying and doing things. I
+went to the "Valley House" for the night and took the early train next
+morning for McCook which is in about the same longitude as Valentine
+and North Platte, and thus I would go about the same distance west on
+all of the three railroads.
+
+I will not tell of the way out, only of my ride on the engine. I have
+always greatly admired and wondered at the workings of a locomotive,
+and can readily understand how an engineer can learn to love his
+engine, they seem so much a thing of life and animation. The great
+throbbing heart of the Centennial--the Corliss engine, excited my
+admiration more than all the rest of Machinery Hall; and next to the
+Corliss comes the locomotive. I had gone to the round house in Wymore
+with my cousins and was told all about the engines, the air-brakes, and
+all that, but, oh, dear! I didn't know anything after all. We planned
+to have a ride on one before I left, but our plans failed. And when at
+Cambridge the conductor came in haste and asked me if I would like a
+ride on the engine, I followed without a thought, only that my long
+wished for opportunity had come. Not until I was occupying the
+fireman's seat did I think of what I was doing. I looked out of the
+window and saw the conductor quietly telling the fireman something that
+amused them both, and I at once knew they meant to give me "a mile a
+minute" ride. Well I felt provoked and ashamed that I had allowed my
+impulsiveness to walk me right into the cab of an engine; but I was
+there and it was too late to turn back, so to master the situation I
+appeared quite unconcerned, and only asked how far it was to Indianola.
+
+"Fourteen miles," was the reply.
+
+Well, the fireman watched the steam clock and shoveled in coal, and the
+engineer never took his eyes off the track which was as straight as a
+bee-line before us, and I just held on to the seat and my poke hat, and
+let them go, and tried to count the telegraph poles as they flew by the
+wrong way. After all it was a grand ride, only I felt out of place.
+When nearing Indianola they ran slow to get in on time, and when they
+had stopped I asked what time they had made, and was answered, eighteen
+minutes. The conductor came immediately to help me from the cab and as
+he did so, asked:
+
+"Well, did they go pretty fast?"
+
+"I don't know, did they?" I replied.
+
+I was glad to get back to the passenger coach and soon we were at
+McCook.
+
+After the train had gone some time I missed a wrap I had left on the
+seat, and hastily had a telegram sent after it. After lunching at the
+railroad eating house, I set about gathering information about the
+little "Magic City" which was located May 25th 1882, and now has a
+population of 900. It is 255 miles east of Denver, on the north banks
+of the Republican river, on a gradually rising slope, while south of
+the river it is bluffy. It is a division station and is nicely built up
+with very tastily arranged cottages. Only for the newness of the place
+I could have fancied I was walking up Congress street in Bradford,
+Pennsylvania. Everything has air of freshness and brightness. The first
+house was built in June, '82.
+
+I am surprised at the architectural taste displayed in the new towns of
+the west. Surely the east is becoming old and falling behind. It is
+seldom a house is finished without paint; and it is a great help to the
+appearance of the town and country, as those who can afford a frame
+house, build one that will look well at a distance.
+
+Pipes are now being laid for water works. The water is to be carried
+from the river to a reservoir capable of holding 40,000 gallons and
+located on the hill. This is being done by the Lincoln Land Company at
+a cost of $36,000. It has a daily and weekly paper, The McCook
+_Tribune_, first issued in June, '82. The printing office was then
+in a sod house near the river, then called Fairview post-office, near
+which, about twenty farmers had gathered. The B. & M.R.R. was completed
+through to Colorado winter of '82. Good building stone can be obtained
+from Stony Point, but three miles west. McCook has its brick kiln as
+has almost all the towns along the way. Good clay is easily obtained,
+and brick is cheaper than in the east.
+
+From a copy of the Daily _Tribune_, I read a long list of business
+firms and professional cards, and finished with, "_no saloons_."
+
+The Congregationalists have a fine church building. The Catholics
+worship in the Churchill House, but all other denominations are given
+the use of the Congregational church until they can build. I called
+upon Rev. G. Dungan, pastor of the Congregational church. He was from
+home, but I was kindly invited by his mother, who was just from the
+east, to rest in their cosy parlor. It is few of our ministers of the
+east that are furnished with homes such as was this minister of McCook.
+I was then directed to Mrs. C. C. Clark, who is superintendent of the
+Sunday school, and found her a lady of intelligence and refinement. She
+told of their Sabbath school, and of the good attendance, and how the
+ladies had bought the church organ, and of the society in general.
+
+"You would be surprised to know the refinement and culture to be found
+in these newly built western towns. If you will remain with us a few
+days, I will take you out into the country to see how nicely people can
+and do live in the sod houses and dugouts. And we will also go on an
+engine into Colorado. It is too bad to come so near and go back without
+seeing that state. Passengers very often ride on the engine on this
+road, and consider it a great treat; so it was only through kindness
+that you were invited into the cab, as you had asked the conductor to
+point out all that was of interest, along the way."
+
+The rainfall this year will be sufficient for the growing of the crops,
+with only another good rain. Almost everyone has bought or taken
+claims. One engineer has taken a homestead and timber claim, and bought
+80 acres. So he has 400 acres, and his wife has gone to live on the
+homestead, while he continues on the road until they have money enough
+to go into stock-raising.
+
+This valley does not show any sand to speak of until in the western
+part of Hitchcock county.
+
+Following the winding course of the Republican river, through the eight
+counties of Nebraska through which it flows, it measures 260 miles. The
+40th north latitude, is the south boundary line of Nebraska. As the
+Republican river flows through the southern tier of counties, it is
+easy to locate its latitude. It has a fall of 7 feet per mile, is well
+sustained by innumerable creeks on the north, and many from the south.
+These streams are more or less wooded with ash, elm, and cottonwood,
+and each have their cosy valley. It certainly will be a thickly
+populated stretch of Nebraska. The timber, the out crops of limestone,
+the brick clay, the rich soil, and the stock raising facilities, plenty
+of water and winter grazing, and the mill power of the river cannot and
+will not be overlooked. But hark! the train is coming, and I must go.
+
+A Catholic priest and two eastern travelers, returning from Colorado,
+are the only passengers in this coach. The seats are covered with sand,
+and window sills drifted full. I brush a seat next to the river side
+and prepare to write. Must tell you first that my wrap was handed me by
+the porter, so if I was not in Colorado, it was.
+
+The prairies are dotted with white thistle flowers, that look like pond
+lilies on a sea of green. The buffalo grass is so short that it does
+not hide the tiniest flower. Now we are alongside the river; sand-bars
+in all shapes and little islands of green--there it winds to the south
+and is lost to sight--herds of cattle--corn field--river again with
+willow fringed bank--cattle on a sand-bar, so it cannot be quicksand,
+or they would not be there long--river gone again--tall willow
+grove--wire fencing--creek I suppose, but it is only a brook in width.
+Now a broad, beautiful valley. Dear me! this field must be five miles
+long, and cattle grazing in it--all fenced in until we reach
+
+
+INDIANOLA,
+
+one of the veteran towns of Red Willow county. The town-site was
+surveyed in 1873, and is now the county seat. Of course its growth was
+slow until the advent of the B. & M., and now it numbers over 400
+inhabitants. "This way with your sorghum cane, and get your 'lasses'
+from the big sorghum mill." See a church steeple, court house, and
+school house--great herd of cattle--wilderness of sunflowers turning
+their bright faces to the sun--now nothing but grass--corral made of
+logs--corn and potatoes--out of the old sod into the nice new
+frame--river beautifully wooded--valley about four miles wide from
+bluff to bluff--dog town, but don't seem to be any doggies at
+home--board fence.
+
+
+CAMBRIDGE.
+
+Close to the bridge and near Medicine creek; population 500; a flouring
+mill; in Furnas county now. The flowers that I see are the prairie rose
+shaded from white to pink, thistles, white and pink cactuses, purple
+shoestring, a yellow flower, and sunflowers.
+
+Abrupt bluffs like those of Valentine. Buffalo burs, and buffalo
+wallows. Country looking fine. Grain good.
+
+
+ARAPAHOE.
+
+Quite a town on the level valley; good situation. Valley broad, and
+bluffs a gradual rise to the table-lands; fields of grain and corn on
+their sloping side. This young city is situated on the most northern
+point of the river and twenty-two miles from Kansas, and is only forty
+miles from Plum creek on the Platte river, and many from that
+neighborhood come with their grain to the Arapahoe mills as there are
+two flouring mills here. It is the county-seat of Furnas county, was
+platted in 1871. River well timbered; corn and oats good; grain in
+sheaf; stumps, stumps, bless the dear old stumps! glad to see them!
+didn't think any one could live in that house, but people can live in
+very open houses here; stakenridered fence, sod house, here is a stream
+no wider than our spring run, yet it cuts deep and trees grow on its
+banks. River close; trees--there, it and the trees are both gone south.
+Here are two harvesters at work, reaping and binding the golden grain.
+
+
+OXFORD.
+
+Only town on both sides of the railroad, all others are to the north;
+town located by the Lincoln land company; population about 400; a
+Baptist church; good stone for building near; damming the river for
+mills and factories; a creamery is being talked of. Sheep, sheep, and
+cattle, cattle--What has cattle? Cattle has what all things has out
+west. Guess what! why grass to be sure. Scenery beautiful; in Harlan
+county now, and we go on past Watson, Spring Hill, and Melrose, small
+towns, but will not be so long.
+
+Here we are at
+
+
+ORLEANS.
+
+A beautifully situated town on a plateau, a little distance to the
+north; excuse, me, please, until I brush the dust from the seat before
+me for an old lady that has just entered the car; I am glad to have her
+company. Stately elms cast their shadows over a bright little stream
+called Elm creek that winds around at the foot of the bluff upon which
+the town is built. I like the scenery here very much, and, too, the
+town it is so nicely built. It is near the center of the county, and
+for a time was the county seat, and built a good court-house, but their
+right was disputed, and the county seat was carried to Alma, six miles
+east. The railroad reached this point in '80, at which time it had 400
+of a population. It has advanced even through the loss of the county
+seat. An M.E. College, brick-yard, and grist-mill are some of its
+interests. Land rolling; oats ripe; buffalo grass; good grazing land.
+Cutting grain with oxen; a large field of barley; good bottom land;
+large herds and little homes; cutting hay with a reaper and the old
+sod's tumbled in, telling a story of trials no doubt.
+
+
+ALMA.
+
+Quite a good town, of 700 inhabitants, but it is built upon the
+table-land so out of sight I cannot see much of it. But this is the
+county seat before spoken of, and I am told is a live town.
+
+That old lady is growing talky; has just sold her homestead near
+Orleans for $800, and now she is going to visit and live on the
+interest of her money. Came from New York ten years ago with her
+fatherless children. The two eastern men and myself were the only
+passengers in this car, so I just wrote and hummed away until I drove
+the men away to the end of the car where they could hear each other
+talking. I am so glad the old lady will talk.
+
+
+REPUBLICAN CITY.
+
+Small, but pretty town with good surrounding country. Population 400.
+Why, there's a wind-mill! Water must be easily obtained or they would
+be more plenty.
+
+
+NAPONEE.
+
+Small town. No stop here. Widespread valley; corn in tassel; grain in
+sheaf; wheat splendid. One flour mill and a creamery.
+
+BLOOMINGTON--the "Highland City"--the county seat of Franklin county,
+and is a town like all the other towns along this beautiful valley,
+nicely located, and built up with beautiful homes and public buildings,
+and besides having large brick M.E. and Presbyterian churches, a large
+Normal School building, the Bloomington flour mills, a large creamery,
+and the U.S. land office. I am told that the Indians are excellent
+judges of land and are very loth to leave a good stretch of country,
+although they do not make much use of the rich soil. The Pawnees were
+the original land-holders of the Republican valley, and I do not wonder
+that they held so tenaciously to it. It has surely grown into a grand
+possession for their white brothers.
+
+I am so tired, if you will excuse me, reader, I will just write half
+and use a dash for the rest of the words cor--, pota--, bush--, tre--,
+riv--. Wish I could make tracks on that sand bar! Old lady says "that
+wild sage is good to break up the ague," and I have been told it is a
+good preventive for malaria in any form. Driftwood! I wonder where it
+came from. There, the river is out of sight, and no tre-- or bus--;
+well, I am tired saying that; going to say something else. Sensitive
+roses, yellow flowers, that's much better than to be talking about the
+river all the time. But here it is again; the most fickle stream I have
+ever seen! You think you will have bright waters to look upon for
+awhile, and just then you haven't.
+
+But, there, we have gone five miles now, and we are at FRANKLIN, a real
+good solid town. First house built July, 1879. I never can guess how
+many people live in a town by looking at it from a car window. How do I
+know how many there are at work in the creamery, flouring mill, and
+woolen factory? And how many pupils are studying in the Franklin
+Academy, a fine two-story building erected by the Republican Valley
+Congregational Association at a cost of $3,500? First term opened Dec.
+6, 1881. The present worth of the institution is $12,000, and they
+propose to make that sum $50,000. One hundred and seven students have
+been enrolled during the present term. And how many little boys and
+girls in the common school building? or how many are in their nicely
+painted homes, and those log houses, and sod houses, and dug-outs in
+the side of the hill, with the stovepipe sticking out of the ground? It
+takes all kinds of people to make a world, and all kinds of houses to
+make a city. Country good. Fields of corn, wheat, rye, oats, millet,
+broom corn, and all _sich_--good all the way along this valley.
+
+
+RIVERTON.
+
+A small town situated right in the valley. Was almost entirely laid in
+ashes in 1882, but Phoenix-like is rising again. Am told the B. & M.
+Co. have 47,000 acres of land for sale in this neighborhood at $3.50 to
+$10 per acre, on ten years' time and six per cent interest. Great
+fields of pasture and grain; wild hay lands; alongside the river now;
+there, it is gone to run under that bridge away over near the foot of
+the grassy wall of the bluffs. Why, would you believe it! here's the
+Republican river. Haven't seen it for a couple of minutes. But it
+brings trees and bushes with it, and an island. But now around the
+bluffs and away it goes. Reader, I have told you the "here she comes"
+and "there she goes" of the river to show you its winding course. One
+minute it would be hugging the bluffs on the north side, and then, as
+though ashamed of the "hug," and thought it "hadn't ought to," takes a
+direct south-western course for the south bluffs, and hug them awhile.
+Oh, the naughty river! But, there, the old lady is tired and has
+stopped talking, and I will follow her example. Tired? Yes, indeed!
+Have been writing almost constantly since I left McCook, now 119 miles
+away, and am right glad to hear the conductor call
+
+
+RED CLOUD!
+
+Hearing that ex-Gov. Garber was one of the early settlers of Red Cloud,
+I made haste to call upon him before it grew dark, for the sunbeams
+were already aslant when we arrived, and supper was to be eaten. As I
+stepped out upon the porch of the "Valley House" there sat a toad;
+first western toad I had seen, and it looked so like the toadies that
+hop over our porch at home that I couldn't help but pat it with my
+foot. But it hopped away from me and left me to think of home. The new
+moon of May had hung its golden crest over me in the valley of the
+Niobrara, the June moon in the valley of the Platte, and now, looking
+up from the Republican valley, the new July moon smiled upon me in a
+rather reproving way for being yet further from home than when it last
+came, and, too, after all my wishing. So I turned my earnest wishes
+into a silent prayer:
+
+"Dear Father, take me home before the moon has again run its course!"
+
+I found the ex-governor seated on the piazza of his cosy cottage,
+enjoying the beautiful evening. He received me kindly, and invited me
+into the parlor, where I was introduced to Mrs. Garber, a very pleasant
+lady, and soon I was listening to the following story:
+
+"I was one of the first men in Webster county; came with two brothers,
+and several others, and took for my soldier's claim the land upon which
+much of Red Cloud is now built, 17th July, 1870. There were no other
+settlers nearer than Guide Rock, and but two there. In August several
+settlers came with their families, and this neighborhood was frequently
+visited by the Indians, who were then killing the white hunters for
+taking their game, and a couple had been killed near here. The people
+stockaded this knoll, upon which my house is built, with a wall of
+logs, and a trench. In this fort, 64 feet square, they lived the first
+winter, but I stayed in my dugout home, which you may have noticed in
+the side of the hill where you crossed the little bridge. I chose this
+spot then for my future home. I have been in many different states, but
+was never so well satisfied with any place as I was with this spot on
+the Republican river. The prairie was covered with buffalo grass, and
+as buffalo were very plenty, we did not want for meat. There were also
+plenty of elk, antelope, and deer.
+
+"In April, '71, Webster county was organized. The commissioners met in
+my dug-out. At the first election there were but forty-five votes
+polled. First winter there were religious services held, and in the
+summer of '71, we had school. Our mail was carried from Hebron, Thayer
+county, fifty miles east. The town site was platted in October, '72,
+and we named it for Red Cloud, chief of the Indian tribe."
+
+The governor looked quite in place in his elegant home, but as he told
+of the early days, it was hard to fancy him occupying a dug-out, and I
+could not help asking him how he got about in his little home, for he
+is a large man. He laughingly told how he had lived, his dried buffalo
+meat hung to the ceiling, and added:
+
+"I spent many a happy day there."
+
+Gov. Silas Garber was elected governor of Nebraska in 1874-6, serving
+well and with much honor his two terms. This is an instance of out of a
+dugout into the capitol. True nobility and usefulness cannot be hidden
+even by the most humble abode.
+
+The home mother earth affords her children of Nebraska is much the same
+as the homes the great forests of the east gave to our forefathers, and
+have given shelter to many she is now proud to call Nebraska's
+children.
+
+When I spoke of returning to the hotel, the governor said:
+
+"We would like to have you remain with us to-night, if you will," and as
+Mrs. Garber added her invitation, I readily accepted their kindness,
+for it was not given as a mere act of form. I forgot my weariness in
+the pleasure of the evening, hearing the governor tell of pioneer days
+and doings, and Mrs. G. of California's clime and scenery--her native
+state.
+
+The morning was bright and refreshing, and we spent its hours seeing
+the surrounding beauties of their home.
+
+"Come, Miss Fulton, see this grove of trees I planted but eight years
+ago--fine, large trees they are now; and this clover and timothy; some
+think we cannot grow either in Nebraska, but it is a mistake," while
+Mrs. G. says:
+
+"There is such a beautiful wild flower blooming along the path, and if
+I can find it will pluck it for you," and together we go searching in
+the dewy grass for flowers, while the Governor goes for his horse and
+phaeton to take me to the depot.
+
+Mrs. G. is a lady of true culture and refinement, yet most unassuming
+and social in her manners. Before I left, they gave me a large
+photograph of their home. As the Governor drove me around to see more
+of Red Cloud before taking me to the depot, he took me by his 14x16
+hillside home, remarking as he pointed it out:
+
+"I am sorry it has been so destroyed; it might have yet made a good
+home for some one," then by the first frame house built in Red Cloud,
+which he erected for a store room, where he traded with the Indians for
+their furs. He hauled the lumber for this house from Grand Island, over
+sixty miles of trackless prairie, while some went to Beatrice, 100
+miles away, for their lumber, and where they then got most of their
+groceries.
+
+As we drove through the broad streets, and looked on Red Cloud from
+centre to suburb, I did not wonder at the touch of pride with which
+Governor Garber pointed out the advance the little spot of land had
+made that he paid for in years of service to his country.
+
+When the B. & M.R.R. reached Red Cloud in '79, it was a town of 450
+inhabitants; now it numbers 2,500. It is the end of a division of the
+B. & M. from Wymore, and also from Omaha; is the county seat of Webster
+county, and surrounded by a rich country--need I add more?
+
+
+AMBOY.
+
+A little station four miles east of Red Cloud; little stream, with
+bushes; and now we are crossing Dry Creek; corn looks short.
+
+
+COWLES.
+
+Beautiful rolling prairie but no timber; plenty of draws that have to
+be bridged; shan't write much to-day for you know it is Sunday, and I
+feel kind of wicked; wonder what will happen to me for traveling
+to-day; am listening to those travelers from the east tell to another
+how badly disappointed they were in Colorado. One who is an asthmatic
+thinks it strange if the melting at noon-day and freezing at night will
+cure asthma; felt better in Red Cloud than any place. Other one says he
+wouldn't take $1,000 and climb Pike's Peak again, while others are more
+than repaid by the trip. A wide grassy plain to the right, with homes
+and groves of trees.
+
+
+BLUE HILL.
+
+A small town; great corn cribs; a level scope of country. O, rose, that
+blooms and wastes thy fragrance on this wide spread plain, what is thy
+life? To beautify only one little spot of earth, to cheer you travelers
+with one glance, and sweeten one breath of air; mayhap to be seen by
+only one out of the many that pass me by. But God sowed the seed and
+smiles upon me even here.
+
+ Bloom, little flower, all the way along,
+ Sing to us travelers your own quiet song,
+ Speak to us softly, gently, and low,
+ Are they well and happy? Flowers, do you know?
+
+Excuse this simple rhyme, but I am so homesick.
+
+This country is good all the way along and I do not need to repeat it
+so often. Nicely improved farms and homes surrounded by fine groves of
+trees. I see one man at work with his harvester; the only desecrator of
+the Sabbath I have noticed, and he may be a Seventh day Baptist.
+
+
+AYR
+
+Was but a small town, so we go on to HASTINGS, a town of over 5,000
+inhabitants, and the county seat of Adams county. Is ninety-six miles
+west from Lincoln, and 150 miles west of the Missouri river. The B. &
+M.R.R. was built through Hastings in the spring of 1872, but it was not
+a station until the St. Joe and Denver City R.R. (now the St. Joe &
+Western Division of the U.P.R.R.) was extended to this point in the
+following autumn, and a town was platted on the homestead of W.
+Micklin, and named in honor of T. D. Hastings, one of the contractors
+of the St. Jo. & D.C.R.R. A post-office was established the same year,
+the postmaster receiving a salary of one dollar per month. Now, the
+salary is $2,100 per annum, and is the third post-office in the state
+for business done. It is located on a level prairie, and is nicely
+built up with good houses, although it has suffered badly from fires. I
+notice a good many windmills, so I presume water runs deep here. The
+surrounding country is rich farming land, all crops looking good.
+
+Harvard, Sutton, Grafton, Fairmont, Exeter, Friend, and Dorchester, are
+all towns worthy of note, but it is the same old story about them all.
+I notice the churches are well attended.
+
+A poor insane boy came upon the train, and showed signs of fight and,
+as usual, I beat a retreat to the rear of the car, but did not better
+my position by getting near a poor, inebriated young man, in a drunken
+stupor. I count him sixth, but am told he came from Denver in that
+condition, so I will give Colorado the honor (?) of the sixth count. I
+cannot but compare the two young men: The one, I am told, was a good
+young man, but was suddenly robbed of his reason. If it was he that was
+intoxicated, I would not wonder at it. I never could understand how any
+one in their right mind could deliberately drag themselves down to such
+a depth, and present such a picture of sin and shame to the world as
+this poor besotted one does. Everyone looks on him with contempt, as he
+passes up the aisle for a drink; but expressions of pity come from all
+for the one bereft of reason, and I ask, Which of the two is the most
+insane? But I don't intend to preach a temperance sermon if it is
+Sunday.
+
+
+CRETE.
+
+Quite a pretty town half hid among the trees that line the Big Blue
+river. The valley of the Blue must be very fertile, as every plant,
+shrub, and tree shows a very luxuriant growth. Crete is surely a cosy
+retreat. The Congregational church of the state has made it a centre
+of its work. Here are located Doane College and the permanent grounds
+of the N.S.S.A.A.
+
+
+LINCOLN.
+
+Well, here I am, and no familiar face to greet me. I asked a lady to
+watch my baggage for me, while I hastened to the post-office, and when
+I returned the train was gone and the depot closed. I stood looking
+through the window at my baggage inside, and turning my mind
+upside-down, and wrongside out, and when it was sort of crosswise and I
+didn't know just what to do, I asked of a man strolling around if he
+had anything to do with the depot. "No. I am a stranger here, and am
+only waiting to see the ticket agent." After explaining matters to him
+I asked him to "please speak to the ticket agent about that baggage for
+me," which he readily promised to do, and I started to walk to my
+friends, expecting to meet them on the way. After going some distance I
+thought I had placed a great deal of confidence in a stranger, and had
+a mind to turn back, but the sun was melting hot, and I kept right on.
+After I had gone over a mile, I was given a seat in a carriage of one
+of my friends' neighbors, and was taken to their door, and gave them
+another surprise, for they thought I had made a mistake in the date, as
+they were quite sure no train was run on that road on Sunday.
+
+_Monday._ Mr. Gardner went for my baggage, but returned without
+it, and with a countenance too sober for joking said: "Well, your
+baggage is not to be found, and no one seems to know anything about
+it."
+
+"Oh! Pet," Maggie said, "I am so sorry we did not go to meet you, for
+this would not have happened. What did you leave?" "Everything I had."
+"Your silk dress too?" "Yes, but don't mention that; money would
+replace it, but no amount could give me back my autograph album and
+button string which is filled and gathered from so many that I will
+never again see; and all my writings, so much that I could never
+replace. No, I _must_ not lose it!" And then I stole away and went
+to Him whom I knew could help me. Some may not, but I have faith that
+help is given us for the minor as well as the great things of life, and
+as I prayed this lesson came to me--How alarmed I am over the loss of a
+little worldly possessions, and a few poems and scraps of writing, when
+so much of the heavenly possession is lost through carelessness, and
+each day is a page written in my life's history that will not be read
+and judged by this world alone, but by the Great Judge of all things.
+And, too, it is manuscript that cannot be altered or rewritten.
+
+I would not allow myself to think that my baggage was gone for good,
+nor would I shed one tear until I was sure, and then, if gone, I would
+just take a good cry over it, and--but won't I hug my dusty satchels if
+I only get hold of them again, and never, never be so careless again. I
+supposed the stranger whom I had asked to speak to the ticket agent for
+me had improved the opportunity I gave him to secure it for his own.
+
+So it was a rather hopeless expression that I wore, as Cousin Maggie
+took me to the city in the afternoon. The day was away up among the
+nineties, and we could not go fast. I thought, never horse traveled so
+slow, and felt as though I could walk, and even push to make time. But
+I kept quiet and didn't even say "Get up, Nellie!" I suppose a mile a
+minute would have been slow to me then. When at last I reached the
+depot my first thought was to go right to Mr. Randall with my trouble,
+but was told he was about to leave on the train. I peered into the
+faces of those gathered about the depot, but failing to find him, I
+turned to look at the sacred spot where I had last seen may baggage,
+little dreaming that I would find it, but there it all was, even my
+fan. "Oh dear, I am _so_ glad!" and I fussed away, talking to my
+satchels, and telling them how glad I was to see them, and was about to
+give them the promised "great big hug," when I found I was attracting
+attention, and turning to an elderly lady I asked her to please watch
+my baggage for a few moments. How soon we forget our good promises to
+do better.--I hastened to Mr. Randall's office, found him without a
+thought of going away. I first told him how much I was pleased with the
+Republican valley, and then about my baggage.
+
+"Why, child! did you go away and leave it here?"
+
+"Yes, I did; and I have left it again in care of a real dressy old
+lady, and must go and see to it."
+
+When I reached the waiting room the old lady and baggage were both
+gone. Turning to my cousin, who had just entered, I asked:
+
+"Maggie Gardner, what did you do with that baggage?"
+
+"Nothing; I did not know you had found it."
+
+Then, addressing a couple who sat near, I said:
+
+"I do wish you would tell me where that baggage went to."
+
+"The conductor carried it away."
+
+"Where did he go to?"
+
+"I don't know, Miss."
+
+Dear me; helped the old lady aboard with my baggage, I thought.
+
+"Why, what's the matter now, Miss Fulton?" asked Mr. Randall, who had
+followed me. "What's gone?"
+
+"Why, my baggage; it's gone again."
+
+"Well, that's too bad; but come with me and perhaps we may find it in
+here." And we entered the baggage room just in time to save Gov.
+Garber's house from blowing away (the picture), but found the rest all
+carefully stored. Twice lost and twice found; twice sad and twice glad,
+and a good lesson learned.
+
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad first began work at
+Plattsmouth, on the Missouri river, in 1869, and reached Lincoln July
+20, 1870. From Lincoln it reaches out in six different lines. But this
+table will give a better idea of the great network of railroads under
+the B. & M. Co.'s control. The several divisions and their mileage are
+as follows:
+
+ Pacific Junction to Kearney 196
+
+ Omaha line 17
+
+ Nebraska City to Central City 150
+
+ Nebraska City to Beatrice 92
+
+ Atchison to Columbus 221
+
+ Crete to Red Cloud 150
+
+ Table Rock to Wymore 38
+
+ Hastings to Culbertson 171
+
+ Denver Extension 244
+
+ Kenesaw cut-off to Oxford 77
+
+ Chester to Hebron 12
+
+ DeWitt to West Line 25
+
+ Odell to Washington, Kan. 26
+
+ Nemaha to Salem 18
+
+The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, being a part of the
+C.B. & Q. system, forms in connection with the latter road the famous
+"Burlington Route," known as the shortest and quickest line between
+Chicago and Denver, and being the only line under one management,
+tedious and unnecessary delays and transfers at the Missouri river are
+entirely avoided.
+
+P. S. Eustis of Omaha, Neb., who is very highly spoken of, stands at
+the head of the B. & M.R.R. as its worthy General Passenger Agent,
+while R. R. Randall of Lincoln, Neb., Immigration Agent B. & M.R.R.
+Co., of whom I have before spoken, will kindly and most honestly direct
+all who come to him seeking homes in the South Platte country. His
+thorough knowledge of the western country and western life, having
+spent most of his years on the frontier, particularly qualifies him for
+this office.
+
+
+MILFORD.
+
+"The Saratoga of Nebraska." So termed for its beautiful "Big Blue"
+river, which affords good boating and bathing facilities, its wealth of
+thick groves of large trees, and the "dripping spring," that drips and
+sparkles as it falls over a rock at the river bank. As before, Mr.
+Randall had prepared my way, and a carriage awaited me at the depot. I
+was conveyed to the home of Mr. J. H. Culver, where I took tea. Mrs.
+Culver is a daughter of Milford's pioneer, Mr. J. L. Davison, who
+located at M. in 1864, and built the first house. He built a mill in
+'66, and from the mill, and the fording of the river at this point by
+the Mormons, Indians, and emigrants, was derived the name for the town
+that afterward grew up about him.
+
+Through the kindness of the Davison family our stay at Milford was made
+very pleasant. Riding out in the evening to see the rich farming land
+of the valley, and in the morning a row on the river and ramble through
+the groves that have been a resting-place to so many weary travelers
+and a pleasure ground for many a picnic party. Indeed, Milford is the
+common resort for the Lincoln pleasure parties. It is twenty miles due
+west of the capital, on the B. & M.R.R., which was built in 1880. Mr.
+Davison told of how they had first located on Salt Creek, near where is
+now the city of Lincoln, but was then only wild, unbroken prairies.
+Finding the "Big Blue" was a better mill stream, he moved his stakes
+and drove them deep for a permanent home on its banks. He first built a
+log house, and soon a frame, hauling his lumber from Plattsmouth. A
+saw-mill was soon built on the "Blue," and lumber was plenty right at
+hand. The ford was abandoned for a bridge he built in '66, and to his
+flouring-mill came grain for a hundred miles away, as there was none
+other nearer than Ashland. This being the principal crossing-place of
+the Blue, all the vegetables they could raise were readily sold. Mrs.
+Culver told of selling thirty-five dollars' worth of vegetables from
+her little garden patch in one week, adding: "We children were
+competing to see who could make the most from our garden that week, and
+I came out only a few dollars ahead of the rest."
+
+Mrs. D. told of how with the aid of a large dog, and armed with a
+broom, she had defended a neighbor's daughter from being carried away
+captive by a band of Indians. The story of their pioneering days was
+very interesting, but space will not allow me to repeat it.
+
+In the morning I was taken through three very pretty groves. One lies
+high on a bluff, and is indeed a pretty spot, named "Shady Cliff." Then
+winding down canyon Seata, _little_ canyon, we crossed the River to the
+Harbor, an island which is covered with large cottonwood, elm, hickory,
+and ash, and woven among the branches are many grapevines--one we
+measured being sixteen inches in circumference--while a cottonwood
+measured eighteen feet in circumference. Surely it has been a harbor
+where many weary ones have cast anchor for a rest. Another grove, the
+Retreat, is even more thickly wooded and vined over, and we found its
+shade a very pleasant retreat on that bright sunny morning. But
+pleasanter still was the row of a mile down the river to the "Sparkling
+Springs."
+
+Reader, go ask Professor Aughey about the rocks over which this spring
+flows. All I can tell you is, it looks like a great mass of dark clay
+into which had been stirred an equal quantity of shells of all sizes,
+but which had decayed and left only their impression on the hardened
+rock.
+
+The river is 100 feet wide and has a rock bottom which makes it fine
+for bathing in, and the depth and volume of water is sufficient for the
+running of small steamers. School was first held in Mr. Davison's house
+in '69. The first church was erected by the Congregational society in
+'69. First newspaper was established in '70, by J. H. Culver, and
+gained a state reputation under the name of the "Blue Valley _Record_."
+Rev. H. A. French began the publication of the "_Congregational News_"
+in '78.
+
+The "Milford _Ozone_" is the leading organ of the day, so named for the
+health-giving atmosphere that the Milfordites enjoy.
+
+A post-office was established in '66, J. S. Davison acting as
+postmaster. Mail was received once a week from Nebraska City, via
+Camden. The mail was distributed from a dry goods box until in '70, J.
+H. Culver was appointed postmaster, and a modern post-office was
+established.
+
+The old mill was destroyed by fire in '82, and is now replaced by a
+large stone and brick building costing $100,000, and has a capacity of
+300 barrels per day. The population of Milford is about 600. We cross
+the iron bridge that now spans the river to the east banks and take a
+view of the new town of EAST MILFORD laid out on an eighty acre plot
+that borders on the river and gradually rises to the east. It is a
+private enterprise to establish a larger town on this particularly
+favored spot, where those who wish may have a home within easy reach of
+the capital and yet have all the beauty and advantage of a riverside
+home. I could scarcely resist the temptation to select a residence lot
+and make my home on the beautiful Blue, the prettiest spot I have yet
+found in Nebraska.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+NEBRASKA AND HER CAPITAL.
+
+
+Nebraska is so named from the Nebraska, or Platte river. It is derived
+from the Indian _ne_ (water) and _bras_ (shallow), and means shallow
+water. In extent it is 425 miles from east to west, and 138 to 208 from
+north to south, and has an area of 75,995 square miles that lie between
+parallels 40 deg. and 43 deg. north latitude, and 18 deg. and 27 deg. west longitude.
+
+The Omahas, Pawnees, Otoes, Sioux, and other Indian tribes were the
+original land-holders, and buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope the only
+herds that grazed from its great green pasture lands. But in 1854,
+"Uncle Sam" thought the grassy desert worthy of some notice, and made
+it a territory, and in 1867 adopted it as the 37th state, and chose for
+its motto "_Equality before the Law_."
+
+The governors of Nebraska territory were:
+
+ Francis Burt, 1854.
+ T. B. Cuming, 1854-5.
+ Mark W. Izard, 1855-8.
+ W. A. Richardson, 1858.
+ J. S. Morton, 1858-9.
+ Samuel W. Black, 1859-61.
+ Alvin Saunders, 1861-6.
+ David Butler, 1866-7.
+
+Of the state--
+
+ David Butler, 1867-71.
+ William H. James, 1871-3.
+ Robert W. Furnas, 1873-5.
+ Silas Garber, 1875-9.
+ Albinus Nance, 1879-83.
+ James W. Dawes, 1883.
+
+Allow me to quote from the _Centennial Gazetteer of United States_:
+
+"SURFACE.--Nebraska is a part of that vast plain which extends along
+the eastern base of the Rocky mountains, and gently slopes down toward
+the Missouri river. The surface is flat or gently undulating. There are
+no ranges or elevations in the state that might be termed mountains.
+The soil consists for the most part of a black and porous loam, which
+is slightly mixed with sand and lime. The streams now in deeply eroded
+valleys with broad alluvial flood grounds of the greatest fertility,
+which are generally well timbered with cottonwood, poplar, ash, and
+other deciduous trees. The uplands are undulating prairie. Late surveys
+establish the fact that the aggregate area of the bottom lands is from
+13,000,000 to 14,000,000 of acres.
+
+"THE CLIMATE of Nebraska is on the whole similar to that of other
+states of the great Mississippi plains in the same latitude. The mean
+annual temperature varies from 47 deg. in the northern sections to 57 deg. in
+the most southern. But owing to greater elevation, the western part of
+the state is somewhat colder than the eastern. In winter the westerly
+winds sweeping down from the Rocky mountains, often depress the
+thermometer to 20 deg. and sometimes 30 deg. below zero; while in the summer a
+temperature of 100 deg. and over is not unusual. In the southern tier of
+counties the mean temperature of the summer is 76-1/4 deg., and of winter,
+30-1/2 deg.. The greatest amount of rain and snow fall (28 to 30 inches)
+falls in the Missouri valley, and thence westward the rainfall steadily
+decreases to 24 inches near Fort Kearney, 16 inches to the western
+counties, and 12 inches in the south-western corner of the state.
+
+"POPULATION.--Nebraska had in 1860 a population of 28,841, and in 1870,
+122,993. Of these, 92,245 were natives of the United States, including
+18,425 natives of the state. The foreign born population numbered
+30,748.
+
+"EDUCATION.--Nebraska has more organized schools, more school houses,
+and those of a superior character; more money invested in buildings,
+books, etc., than were ever had before in any state of the same age.
+The land endowed for the public schools embraces one-eighteenth of the
+entire area of the state--2,623,080 acres." The school lands are sold
+at not less than seven dollars per acre, which will yield a fund of not
+less than $15,000,000, and are leased at from six to ten per cent
+interest on a valuation of $1.25 to $10 per acre. The principal is
+invested in bonds, and held inviolate and undiminished while the
+interest and income alone is used.
+
+The state is in a most excellent financial condition, and is abundantly
+supplied with schools, churches, colleges, and the various charitable
+and reformatory institutions. Every church is well represented in
+Nebraska. The Methodist stands first in numbers, while the
+Presbyterian, Baptist, and Congregational are of about equal strength.
+The Catholic church is fully represented.
+
+The United States census for 1880 shows that Nebraska has the lowest
+percentage of illiteracy of any state in the Union. Iowa comes second.
+Allow me to compare Nebraska and Pennsylvania:
+
+Nebraska, 1.73 per cent cannot read, 2.55 per cent cannot write;
+Pennsylvania, 3.41 per cent cannot read, 5.32 per cent cannot write.
+Total population of Nebraska, 452,402; Pennsylvania, 4,282,891.
+
+Geographically, Nebraska is situated near the centre of the United
+States, and has an average altitude of 1,500 feet above the level of
+the sea, varying from 1,200 feet at the Missouri river to 2,000 feet at
+the Colorado state line. The climate of Nebraska is noted for its
+salubrity, its wholesomeness, and healthfulness. The dryness of the
+air, particularly in the winter, is the redeeming feature of the low
+temperature that is sometimes very suddenly brought about by strong,
+cold winds, yet the average temperature of the winter of 1882 was but
+17 deg., and of the summer 70 deg..
+
+I only wish to add that I have noticed that the western people in
+general have a much healthier and robust appearance than do eastern
+people.
+
+Later statistics than the United States census of 1880 are not
+accessible for my present purpose, but the figures of that year--since
+which time there has been rapid developments--will speak volumes for
+the giant young state, the youngest but one in the Union.
+
+The taxable values of Nebraska in 1880 amounted to $90,431,757, an
+increase of nearly forty per cent in ten years, being but $53,709,828
+in 1870. During the same time its population had increased from 122,933
+to 452,542, nearly four-fold.
+
+The present population of Nebraska probably exceeds 600,000, and its
+capacity for supporting population is beyond all limits as yet. With a
+population as dense as Ohio, or seventy-five persons to the square
+mile, Nebraska would contain 5,700,000 souls. With as dense a
+population as Massachusetts, or 230 to the square mile, Nebraska would
+have 17,480,000 people.
+
+The grain product of Nebraska had increased from 10,000 bushels in 1874
+to 100,000 bushels in 1879, an average increase of 200 per cent per
+year. In 1883 there was raised in the state:
+
+ Wheat 27,481,300.
+ Corn 101,276,000.
+ Oats 21,630,000.
+
+Mr. D. H. Wheeler, secretary of the state board of agriculture, has
+prepared the following summary of all crop reports received by him up
+to Nov. 13, 1883:
+
+ Corn, yield per acre 41 bushels.
+ Quality 85 per cent.
+ Potatoes, Irish 147 bushels.
+ Quality 109 per cent.
+ Potatoes, sweet 114 bushels.
+ Quality 111 per cent.
+ Hay, average tame and wild 2 tons per a.
+ Quality 107 per cent.
+ Sorghum, yield per acre 119 gallons.
+ Grapes, yield and quality 88 per cent.
+ Apples, yield and quality 97 per cent.
+ Pears, yield and quality 52 per cent.
+ Condition of orchards 100 per cent.
+ Spring wheat threshed at date 82 per cent.
+
+Grade of Spring wheat, No. 2. First frost, Oct. 5. Corn ready for
+market, Dec. 1.
+
+In 1878 there were raised in the state 295,000 hogs, and in 1879 a
+total of 700,000, an increase of nearly 250 per cent. There are raised
+annually at the present time in Nebraska over 300,000 cattle and
+250,000 sheep.
+
+The high license liquor law was passed in Nebraska in 1883, requiring
+the paying of $1,000 for license to sell liquor in a town of 1,000
+inhabitants or more, and $500 elsewhere, all of which is thrown into
+the common school fund and must be paid before a drink is sold. Liquor
+dealers and saloon keepers are responsible for all damages or harm done
+by or to those to whom they have sold liquor while under its influence.
+
+During my stay of almost three months in the state, I saw but seven
+intoxicated men and I looked sharp and counted every one who showed the
+least signs of having been drinking. There are but few hotels in the
+state that keep a bar. I did not learn of one. Lincoln has 18,000 of a
+population and but twelve saloons. Drinking is not popular in Nebraska.
+
+I will add section 1 of Nebraska's laws on the rights of married women.
+
+"The property, real and personal, which any woman in this state may own
+at the time of her marriage, and the rents, issues, profits, or
+proceeds thereof, and any real, personal, or mixed property which shall
+come to her by descent, devise, or the gift of any person except her
+husband, or which she shall acquire by purchase or otherwise, shall
+remain her sole and separate property, notwithstanding her marriage,
+and shall not be subject to the disposal of her husband, or liable for
+his debts.
+
+"The property of the husband shall not be liable for any debt
+contracted by the wife before marriage."
+
+The overland pony express, which was the first regular mail
+transportation across the state, was started in 1860 and lasted two
+years. The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco was
+about 2,000 miles and was run in thirteen days. The principal stations
+were St. Joseph and Marysville, Mo.; Ft. Kearney, Neb.; Laramie and Ft.
+Bridger, Wy. T.; Salt Lake, Utah; Camp Floyd and Carson City, Nev.;
+Placerville, Sacramento, and San Francisco, Cal. Express messengers
+left once a week with ten pounds of matter; salary $1,200 per month;
+carriage on one-fourth ounce was five dollars in gold. But in the two
+years the company's loss was $200,000. Election news was carried from
+St. Joseph, Mo., to Denver City, Col., a distance of 628 miles in
+sixty-nine hours. A telegraph line was erected in Nebraska, 1862; now
+Nebraska can boast of nearly 3,000 miles of railroad.
+
+I want to say that I find it is the truly energetic and enterprising
+people who come west. People who have the energy and enterprise that
+enable them to leave the old home and endure the privations of a new
+country for a few years that they may live much better in the "after
+while," than they could hope to do in the old home, and are a people of
+ambition and true worth. The first lesson taught to those who come west
+by those who have gone before and know what it is to be strangers in a
+strange land, is true kindness and hospitality, and but few fail to
+learn it well and profit by it, and are ready to teach it by precept
+and example to those who follow. It is the same lesson our dear
+great-grandfathers and mothers learned when they helped to fell the
+forests and make a grand good state out of "Penn's Woods." But their
+children's children are forgetting it. Yet I find that Pennsylvania has
+furnished Nebraska with some of her best people. Would it not be a good
+idea for the Pennamites of Nebraska to each year hold Pennsylvania day,
+and every one who come from the dear old hills, meet and have a general
+hand-shaking and talk with old neighbors and friends. I know Nebraska
+could not but be proud of her Pennsylvanian children.
+
+
+LINCOLN.
+
+In 1867 an act was passed by the state legislature, then in session at
+Omaha, appointing a commission consisting of Gov. Butler, Secretary of
+State T. P. Kennard, and Auditor of State J. Gillespie to select and
+locate a new capital out on the frontier. After some search the present
+_capital_ site was chosen--then a wild waste of grasses, where a few
+scattered settlers gathered at a log cabin to receive the mail that
+once a week was carried to them on horseback to the Lancaster
+post-office of Lancaster county. The site is 65 miles west of the
+Missouri river, and 1,114 feet above sea level, and on the "divide"
+between Antelope and Salt Creeks. 900 acres were platted into lots and
+broad streets, reserving ample ground for all necessary public
+buildings, and the new capital was named in honor of him for whom
+Columbia yet mourned. Previous to the founding of Lincoln by the state,
+a Methodist minister named Young had selected a part of the land, and
+founded a paper town and called it Lancaster.
+
+The plan adopted for the locating of the capital of the new state was
+as follows: The capital should be located upon lands belonging to the
+state, and the money derived from the sale of the lots should build all
+the state buildings and institutions. After the selection by the
+commission there was a slight rush for town lots, but not until the
+summer of '68 was the new town placed under the auctioneer's hammer,
+which, however, was thrown down in disgust as the bidders were so few
+and timid. In 1869, Col. George B. Skinner conducted a three days' sale
+of lots, and in that time sold lots to the amount of $171,000. When he
+received his wages--$300--he remarked that he would not give his pay
+for the whole town site.
+
+The building boom commenced at once, and early in '69 from 80 to 100
+houses were built. The main part of the state house was begun in '67,
+but the first legislature did not meet at the new capitol until in
+January, '69. From the sale of odd numbered blocks a sufficient sum was
+realized to build the capitol building, costing $64,000, the State
+University, $152,000, and State Insane Asylum $137,500, and pay all
+other expenses and had left 300 lots unsold.
+
+The State Penitentiary was built at a cost of $312,000 in 1876. The
+post-office, a very imposing building, was erected by the national
+government at a cost of $200,000, finished in '78. Twenty acres were
+reserved for the B. & M. depot. It is ground well occupied. The depot
+is a large brick building 183x53 and three stories high, with lunch
+room, ladies' and gents' waiting rooms nicely furnished, baggage room,
+and broad hall and stairway leading to the telegraph and land offices
+on the second and third floors. Ten trains arrive and depart daily
+carrying an aggregate of 1,400 passengers. The U.P. has ample railway
+accommodations.
+
+All churches and benevolent societies that applied for reservation were
+given three lots each, subject to the approval of the legislature,
+which afterward confirmed the grant. A Congregational church was
+organized in 1866; German Methodist, '67; Methodist Episcopal and Roman
+Catholic, '68; Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Christian, '69;
+Universalist, '70; African Methodist, '73, and Colored Baptist, '79. A
+number have since been added.
+
+THE STATE JOURNAL CO. On the 15th of Aug., 1867, the day following the
+announcement that Lancaster was _the place_ for the capital site there
+appeared in the _Nebraska City Press_ a prospectus for the publication
+of a weekly newspaper in Lincoln, to be called the _Nebraska
+Commonwealth_, C. H. Gere, Editor. But not until the latter part of
+Nov. did it have an established office in the new city. In the spring
+of '69 the _Commonwealth_ was changed to the Nebraska _State Journal_.
+As a daily it was first issued on the 20th of July, '70, the day the B.
+& M.R.R. ran its first train into Lincoln, and upset all the old stage
+coaches that had been the only means of transportation to the capital.
+In '82 the State Journal Co. moved into their handsome and spacious new
+building on the corner of P and 9th streets. It is built of stone and
+brick, four stories high, 75 feet on P and 143 on 9th streets. The
+officers are C. H. Gere, Pres.; A. H. Mendenhall, Vice Pres.; J. R.
+Clark, Sec., and H. D. Hathaway, Treas. The company employs 100 to 125
+hands. Beside the _Journal_ are the _Democrat_ and _News_, daily; the
+_Nebraska Farmer_, semi-monthly; the _Capital_, weekly; the _Hesperian
+Student_, monthly, published by the students of the University, and the
+_Staats Anzeiger_, a German paper, issued weekly.
+
+On my return from Milford, Wednesday, I sought and found No. 1203 G
+street, just in time to again take tea with the Keefer family, and
+spend the night with them, intending to go to Fremont next day. But
+Mrs. K. insisted that she would not allow me to slight the capital in
+that way, and to her I am indebted for much of my sight-seeing in and
+about Lincoln.
+
+Thursday afternoon we went to the penitentiary to see a little of
+convict life. But the very little I saw made me wonder why any one who
+had once suffered imprisonment would be guilty of a second lawless act.
+Two negro convicts in striped uniforms were lounging on the steps ready
+to take charge of the carriages, for it was visitor's day. Only good
+behaved prisoners, whose terms have almost expired, are allowed to step
+beyond the iron bars and stone walls. We were taken around through all
+the departments--the kitchen, tailor shop, and laundry, and where
+brooms, trunks, harnesses, corn-shellers, and much that I cannot
+mention, are made. Then there was the foundry, blacksmith shop, and
+stone yard, where stones were being sawed and dressed ready for use at
+the capitol building. The long double row of 160 cells are so built of
+stone and cement that when once the door of iron bars closes upon a
+prisoner he has no chance of exit. They are 4x7 feet, and furnished
+with an iron bedstead, and one berth above; a stool, and a lap-board to
+write on. They are allowed to write letters every three weeks, but what
+they write is read before it is sent, and what they receive is read
+before it is given to them. There are 249 prisoners, a number of whom
+are from Wyoming. Their meals are given them as they pass to their
+cells. They were at one time seated at a table and given their meals
+together, but a disturbance arose among them and they used the knives
+and forks for weapons to fight with. And they carried them off secretly
+to their cells, and one almost succeeded in cutting his way through the
+wall. Only those who occupy the same cell can hold any conversation.
+Never a word is allowed to be exchanged outside the cells with each
+other. Thus silently, like a noiseless machine, with bowed heads, not
+even exchanging a word, and scarcely a glance, with their elbow
+neighbor, they work the long days through, from six o'clock until
+seven, year in and year out. On the Fourth of July they are given two
+or three hours in which they can dance, sing, and talk to each other, a
+privilege they improve to the greatest extent, and a general
+hand-shaking and meeting with old neighbors is the result. Sunday, at
+nine A.M., they are marched in close file to the chapel, where Rev.
+Howe, City Missionary, formerly a missionary in Brooklyn and New York,
+gives them an hour of good talk, telling them of Christ and Him
+Crucified, and of future reward and punishment, but no sectarian
+doctrines. He assures me some find the pearl of great price even within
+prison walls. They have an organ in the chapel and a choir composed of
+their best singers, and it is not often we hear better. Rev. Howe's
+daughter often accompanies her father and sings for them. They are
+readily brought to tears by the singing of Home, Sweet Home, and the
+dear old hymns. Through Mr. Howe's kind invitation we enjoyed his
+services with them, and as we rapped for admittance behind the bars,
+the attendant said: "Make haste, the boys are coming"; and the iron
+door was quickly locked after we entered. A prisoner brought us chairs,
+and we watched the long line of convicts marching in, the right hand on
+the shoulder of the one before them, and their striped cap in the left.
+They filed into the seats and every arm was folded. It made me sigh to
+see the boyish faces, but a shudder would creep over me when, here and
+there, I marked a number wearing the hoary locks of age. As I looked
+into their faces I could not but think of the many little children I
+have talked to in happy school days gone by, and my words came back to
+me: "Now, children, remember I will never forget you, and I will always
+be watching to see what good men and women you make; great
+philanthropists, teachers, and workers in the good work, good
+ministers, noble doctors, lawyers that will mete out true justice,
+honest laborers, and who knows but that a future Mr. or Mrs. President
+sits before me on a school bench? Never, never allow me to see your
+name in disgrace." And I hear a chorus of little voices answer: "I'll
+be good, Teacher, I'll be good." But before me were men who, in their
+innocent days of childhood, had as freely and well-meaningly promised
+to be good. But the one grand thought brightened the dark picture
+before me: God's great loving-kindness and tender mercy--a God not only
+to condemn but to forgive. Nine-tenths of the prisoners, I am told, are
+here through intemperance. Oh, ye liquor dealers that deal out ruin
+with your rum by the cask or sparkling goblet! Ye poor wretched
+drunkard, social drinker, or fashionable tippler! Why cannot you be
+men, such as your Creator intended you should be? I sometimes think God
+will punish the _cause_, while man calls the effect to account. For my
+part, I will reach out my hand to help raise the poorest drunkard from
+the ditch rather than to shake hands with the largest liquor dealer in
+the land, be he ever so good (?) Good! He knows what he deals out, and
+that mingled with his ill-gotten gains is the taint of ruined souls,
+souls for which he will have to answer for before the Great Judge who
+never granted a license to sin, nor decided our guilt by a jury.
+
+Mrs. K. had secured a pass to take us to the insane asylum, but we felt
+we had seen enough of sadness, and returned home.
+
+_Friday._ About two P.M. the sky was suddenly darkened with angry
+looking clouds, and I watched them with interest as they grew more
+threatening and the thunder spoke in louder tones. I was not anxious to
+witness a cyclone, but if one _must_ come, I wanted to watch its
+coming, and see all I could of it. But the winds swept the clouds
+rapidly by, and in a couple of hours the streets were dry, and we drove
+out to see the only damage done, which was the partial wreck of a brick
+building that was being erected. Reports came in of a heavy fall of
+hail a few miles west that had the destroyed corn crop in some places.
+This was the hardest storm seen during my stay in the state. [ERRATA.
+Page 245, last line but one, in place of "Nebraska is visited" read
+"Nebraska is _not_ visited." Third line from bottom leave out the
+word "not" from commencement of line.] Nebraska is not visited, as some
+suppose, with the terrible cyclones and wind storms that sweep over
+some parts of the West; nor have I experienced the constant wind that I
+was told of before I came; yet Nebraska has more windy weather than
+does Pennsylvania.
+
+The sun comes down with power, and when the day is calm, is very
+oppressive; but the cool evenings revive and invigorate all nature.
+
+_Saturday_ we spent in seeing the city from center to suburb and
+drinking from the artesian well in the government square. The water has
+many medical properties, and is used as a general "cure-all."
+
+Climbing the many steps to the belfry of the University, we had a fine
+view of the city, looking north, east, south, and west, far over
+housetops. Many are fine buildings of stone and brick, and many
+beautiful residences with well kept lawns. The streets are 100 and 120
+feet wide. Sixteen feet on each side are appropriated for sidewalks,
+five of which, in all but the business streets, is the walk
+proper--built of stone, brick, or plank--and the remaining eleven feet
+are planted with shade trees, and are as nicely kept as the door yards.
+
+The streets running north and south are numbered from first to
+twenty-fifth street. Those from east to west are lettered from A to W.
+
+Saturday evening--a beautiful moonlight night--just such a night as
+makes one wish for a ride. Who can blame me if I take one? A friend has
+been telling how travelers among the Rockies have to climb the
+mountains on mountain mules or burros. My curiosity is aroused to know
+if when I reach the foot of Pike's Peak, I can ascend. It would be
+aggravating to go so far and not be able to reach the Peak just because
+I couldn't ride on a donkey. So Mrs. K. engaged Gussie Chapman, a
+neighbor's boy, to bring his burro over _after dark_. All saddled,
+Fanny waits at the door, and I must go.
+
+Good bye, reader, I'll tell you all about my trip when I get back--I'll
+telegraph you at the nearest station. Don't be uneasy about me; I am
+told that burros never run off, and if Fanny should throw me I have
+only three feet to fall. I wonder what her great ears are for--but a
+happy thought strikes me, and I hang my poke hat on one and start.
+
+ One by one her feet are lifted,
+ One by one she sets them down;
+ Step by step we leave the gatepost,
+ And go creeping 'round to a convenient puddle,
+
+when Fanny flops her ears, and lands my hat in the middle. Well, you
+cannot expect me to write poetry and go at this rate of speed. My
+thoughts and the muses can't keep pace with the donkey.
+
+Most time to telegraph back to my friends who waved me away so grandly.
+But, dear me, I have been so lost in my reverie on the lovely night,
+and thoughts of how I could now climb Pike's Peak--_if I ever reached
+the foot of the mountain_,--that I did not notice that Fanny had
+crept round the mud puddle, and was back leaning against the gate-post.
+Another start, and Fanny's little master follows to whip her up; but
+she acts as though she wanted to slide me off over her ears, and I beg
+him to desist, and we will just creep. Poor little brute, you were
+created to creep along the dangerous mountain passes with your slow,
+cautious tread, and I won't try to force you into a trot.
+
+Well, I went up street and down street, and then gave my seat to Hettie
+Keefer.
+
+"What does it eat?" I asked.
+
+"Oh, old shoes and rags, old tin cans, and just anything at all."
+
+I wish I could tell you all about this queer little Mexican burro, but
+Hettie is back, and it is time to say good night.
+
+In 1880, Kansas was so flooded with exodus negroes that Nebraska was
+asked to provide for a few, and over one hundred were sent to Lincoln.
+Near Mr. K.'s home, they have a little church painted a crushed
+strawberry color, and in the afternoon, our curiosity led us right in
+among these poor negroes so lately from the rice and cotton fields and
+cane brakes of the sunny South, to see and hear them in their worship.
+They call themselves Baptist, but, ignorant of their church belief,
+requested the Rev. Mr. Gee, then minister of the Lincoln Baptist
+church, to come and baptise their infants.
+
+I went supplied with a large fan to hide a smiling countenance behind,
+but had no use for it in that way. Their utter ignorance, and yet so
+earnest in the very little they knew, drove all the smiles away, and I
+wore an expression of pity instead.
+
+The paint is all on the outside of the house, and the altar, stand and
+seats are of rough make up. The whole audience turned the whites of
+their eyes upon us as we took a seat near the door. Soon a powerful son
+of Africa arose and said:
+
+"Bruddering, I havn't long to maintain ye, but if ye'll pray for me for
+about the short space of fifteen minutes, I'll try to talk to ye. And
+Moses lifted up his rod in de wilderness, dat all dat looked upon dat
+rod might be healed. Now in dose days dey had what they called
+sarpents, but in dese days we call dem snakes, and if any one was bit
+by a snake and would look on dat rod he would be healed of de snake
+bite." How earnestly he talk to his "chilens" for de short space of
+time, until he suddenly broke off and said with a broad grin: "Now my
+time is up. Brudder, will you pray?" And while the brudder knelt in
+prayer the audience remained seated, hid their faces in their hands,
+and with their elbows resting on their knees, swayed their bodies to a
+continual humumum, and kept time with their feet; the louder the
+prayer, the louder grew the hum until the prayer could not be heard.
+One little Topsy sat just opposite us keeping time to the prayer by
+bobbing her bare heels up and down from a pair of old slippers much too
+large for her, showing the ragged edges of a heelless stocking, while
+she eyed "de white folks in de corner." After prayer came the singing,
+if such it may be called. The minister lined out a hymn from the only
+hymn book in the house, and as he ended the last word he began to sing
+in the same breath, and the rest followed. It did not matter whether it
+was long, short, or particular meter, they could drawl out one word
+long enough to make six if necessary, and skip any that was in the way.
+It was only a perfect mumble of loud voices that is beyond description,
+and must be heard to be appreciated. But the minister cut the singing
+short, by saying: "Excuse de balance," which we were glad to do. I was
+very much afraid he was getting "Love among the roses" mixed in with
+the hymn. While they sang, a number walked up to the little pine table
+and threw down their offering of pennies and nickels with as much pride
+and pomp as though they gave great sums, some making two trips. Two men
+stood at the table and reached out each time a piece of money was put
+down to draw it into the pile; but with all their caution they could
+not hinder one girl from taking up, no doubt, more than she put down,
+and not satisfied with that, again walked up and quickly snatched a
+piece of money without even pretending to throw some down. The minister
+closed with a benediction, and then announced that "Brudder Alexander
+would exhort to ye to-night and preach de gospel pint forward; and if
+de Lord am willin, I'll be here too."
+
+A number gathered around and gave us the right hand of fellowship with
+an invitation to come again, which we gladly accepted, and evening
+found us again in the back seat with pencil and paper to take notes.
+
+Brudder Alexander began with: "Peace be unto dis house while I try to
+speak a little space of time, while I talks of brudder Joshua. My text
+am de first chapter of Joshua, and de tenth verse. 'Then Joshua
+commanded the officers of the people, saying,' Now Joshua was a great
+wrastler and a war-man, and he made de walls of Jericho to fall by
+blowen on de horns. Oh, chilens! and fellow-mates, neber forget de book
+of Joshua. Look-yah! Simon Peta was de first bishop of Rome, but de
+Lord had on old worn-out clothes, and was sot upon an oxen, and eat
+moldy bread. And look-a-yah! don't I member de time, and don't I magine
+it will be terrible when de angel will come wid a big horn, and he'll
+give a big blah on de horn, and den look out; de fire will come, and de
+smoke will descend into heaven, and de earth will open up its mouth and
+not count the cost of houses. And look-a-yah! I hear dem say, de Rocky
+mountains will fall on ye. Oh, bruddering and fellow-mates, I clar I
+heard dem say, if ye be a child of God, hold out and prove faithful,
+and ye'll receive the crown, muzzle down. Now chilen, my time is
+expended."
+
+And with this we left them to enjoy their prayer meeting alone, while
+we came home, ready to look on the most ridiculous picture that can be
+drawn by our famous artist in Blackville, and believe it to be a true
+representation. Poor children, no wonder the "true blue" fought four
+long years to set you free from a life of bondage that kept you in such
+utter ignorance.
+
+Monday morning I felt all the time I had for Lincoln had been
+"expended," and I bade my kind friends of the capital good-bye.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Home again from Lincoln, Nebraska, to Indiana County Pennsylvania. The
+Kinzua bridge and Niagara Falls.--The conclusion.
+
+
+Left Lincoln Monday morning, July 17, on the U.P.R.R. for Fremont.
+Passed fields of corn almost destroyed by the hail storm of last
+Friday. It is sad to see some of the farmers cultivating the stubble of
+what but a few days ago was promising fields of corn. We followed the
+storm belt until near Wahoo, where we again looked on fine fields. At
+Valley, a small town, we changed cars and had a tiresome wait of a
+couple of hours. I was surprised to see a town in Nebraska that seemed
+to be on the stand-still, but was told that it was too near Omaha and
+Fremont. A short ride from Valley brought us to Fremont. The first
+person I saw at the depot was Mrs. Euber, one of the colonists. Before
+she had recognized me, I put my arm about her and said: "Did you come
+to meet me, Mrs. Euber?"
+
+"Why, Sims, is this you! I thought you had gone back east long ago."
+
+After promising to spend my time with her, I went to speak to Mr.
+Reynolds, to whom I had written that I expected to be in Fremont the
+previous week.
+
+"Well," he said, "you have a great sin to answer for; when I received
+your card, I ordered a big bill of groceries, and Mrs. Reynolds had a
+great lot of good things prepared for your entertainment; and when you
+didn't come, I almost killed myself eating them up."
+
+Sorry I had missed such a treat; and caused so much misery. I left him,
+promising to call for any he might have left, which I did, and I found
+he had not eaten them all--which quite relieved my guiltiness. I called
+on Mrs. N. Turner, one of Fremont's earliest settlers, from whom I
+learned much of the early history of the country. She said as she shook
+my hand at parting: "I sincerely hope you will have a safe journey
+home, and find your dear mother well!"
+
+"Thank you," I replied, "you could not have wished me any thing
+better." Nothing can be more pleasant to me than to thus snatch
+acquaintances here and there, and though 'tis but a very short time we
+meet, yet I reap many good impressions, and many pleasing memories are
+stored away for future reference, in quiet hours.
+
+Left Fremont Wednesday noon, July 19, with aching temples; but the
+thought that I was really going home at last, soon relieved my
+indisposition, and I was ready to write as I went; eastward bound, over
+level country of good pasture and hay lands. Land, that, when we passed
+over the 26th April was void of a green spear; trees that then swayed
+their budding branches in the winds, now toss their leafy boughs. Said
+good-bye to the winding Elkhorn river, a little way east of Fremont.
+
+Wild roses and morning glories brighten the way. Why! here we are at
+Blair; but I have told of Blair before, so will go on to the Missouri
+river. And as we cross over I stand on the platform of the rear car
+where I can see the spray, and as I look down into the dark water and
+watch the furrow the boat leaves in the waves, I wonder where are all
+those that crossed over with me to the land I have just left. Some have
+returned, but the majority have scattered over the plains of
+Northwestern Nebraska. I was aroused from my sad reverie by an aged
+gentleman who stood in the door, asking: "Why, is this the way we cross
+the river? My! how strong the water must be to bear us up! Oh, dear! Be
+careful, Sis, or you might fall off when the boat jars against the
+shore."
+
+"I am holding tight," I replied, "and if I do I will fall right in the
+boat or skiff swung at the stern." I did not then know that to fall
+into the Missouri river is almost sure death, as the sand that is mixed
+with the water soon fills the clothing, and carries one to bottom--but
+we landed without a jar or jolt and leave the muddy waves for the sandy
+shores of Iowa.
+
+Reader, I wish I could tell you all about my home going--of my visit at
+Marshalltown, Iowa, with the Pontious family--dear old friends of my
+grand-parents; at Oswego, Ill., with an uncle; at Tiffin and Mansfield,
+Ohio, with more friends, and all I heard and saw along the way. Allow
+me to skip along and only sketch the way here and there.
+
+July 30, 5:30 P.M. "Will you tell me, please, when we cross the
+Pennsylvania state line?" I asked of the conductor. "Why, we crossed
+the line ten miles back." And I just put my hand out of the window and
+shake hands with the dear old state and throw a kiss to the hills and
+valleys, and that rocky bank covered with flowering vines. I thought
+there was an air of home in the breezes.
+
+The sun was going down, and shadows growing long when we stopped at
+Meadville, and while others took supper I walked to the rear of the
+depot to the spot where our party had snow-balled only three months
+ago. The snow has melted, the merry party widely separated, and alone I
+gather leaves that then were only buds, and think. Ah! their bright
+expectations were all in the bud then. Have they unfolded into leaves
+as bright as these I gather?
+
+Well, I am glad to pat the soil of my native state, and call it dear
+old "Pa." But could my parents go with me I feel I would like to return
+again to Nebraska, for though I could never love it as I always shall
+the "Keystone," yet I have already learned to very highly respect and
+esteem Nebraska for its worth as a state, and for the kind, intelligent
+people it holds within its arms.
+
+As I take my seat in the car, a young, well-dressed boy sits near me in
+a quiet state of intoxication. Well, I am really ashamed! To think I
+have seen two drunken men to-day and only seven during my three months'
+stay in Nebraska. So much good for the high license law. If you cannot
+have prohibition, have the next best thing, and drowned out all the
+little groggeries and make those who _will_ have it, pay the highest
+price. Poor boy! You had better go to Nebraska and take a homestead.
+
+"Old Sol" has just hid his face behind the dear old hills and it is too
+dark to see, so I sing to myself. My "fellow mates" hear the hum and
+wonder what makes me so happy. They don't know I am going home, do
+they?
+
+"Salamanaca! change cars for Bradford," and soon I am speeding on to B.
+over the R. & P. road. Two young men and myself are the sole occupants
+of the car.
+
+"Where do you stop when you go to B.?" one asks of the other.
+
+"At the ---- (naming one of the best hotels) generally, but they starve
+a fellow there. In fact, they do at all the hotels; none of them any
+good."
+
+"Well, that's just my plain opinion," No. 1 answers, and I cuddle down
+to sleep, fully assured that I am really near Bradford, where
+everything is "no good," and "just too horrid for anything." Suppose
+those young dandies are "Oil Princes"--"Coal Oil Johnnies," you
+know--and can smash a hotel just for the amusement, but can't pay for
+their fun.
+
+When I arrived at Bradford the young men watched me tug at my satchels
+as I got off, all alone, in the darkness of the midnight hour. I knew
+my brother would not be expecting me, and had made up my mind to take
+the street cars and go to the St. James. But no street cars were in
+waiting and only one carriage.
+
+"Go to the ----, lady?"
+
+"No, I don't know that house," I replied; and giving my satchels in the
+ticket agent's care, I started out in the darkness, across the bridge,
+past dark streets and alleys, straight up Main street, past open
+saloons and billiard halls, but not a policeman in sight. So I kept an
+eye looking out on each side while I walked straight ahead with as firm
+and measured tread as though I commanded a regiment of soldiers, and I
+guess the clerk at the St. James thought I did, for he gave me an
+elegant suite of rooms with three beds. I gave two of them to my
+imaginary guards, and knelt at the other to thank the dear Father that
+He had brought me safely so near home.
+
+"How much for my lodging?" I asked, in the morning.
+
+"Seventy-five cents."
+
+I almost choked as I repeated, "Seventy-five cents! Won't you please
+take fifty?"
+
+"Why?"
+
+"Because it is all the money I have, except a nickel."
+
+"I suppose it will have to do," he said, and I jingled my fifty cents
+on the counter as loudly as though it was a whole dollar, but could not
+help laughing heartily at the low ebb of my finances. The several
+little extras I had met with had taken about all.
+
+I then went to find brother Charlie's boarding-place and surprised him
+at the breakfast table.
+
+August 1st, Charley and I visited Rock City, or rather, the city of
+rocks, just across the New York line. Houses of rock they are in size,
+but are only inhabited by sight-seers. I wish I could describe them to
+you, reader. All I know is, they are conglomerate rocks, made up of
+snowy white pebbles from the size of a pea to a hickory nut, that
+glisten in the sunlight, making the rocks a crystal palace. As I dig
+and try to dislodge the brightest from its bed of hardened sand, I
+wonder how God made the cement that holds them so firmly in place, and
+how and why He brought these rocks to the surface just here and nowhere
+else. Down, around, and under the rocks we climbed, getting lost in the
+great crevices, and trying to carve our names on the walls with the
+many that are chiseled there, but only succeeded in making "our mark."
+They are one of the beautiful, wonderful things that are beyond
+description.
+
+Friday, August 3, I left on the Rochester & Pittsburgh R.R. for
+DuBois. Took a last look at Main street with its busy throng, and then
+out among the grand old hills that tower round with their forests of
+trees and derricks, winding round past Degoliar, Custer City, Howard
+Junction, and crossing east branch of "Tuna" creek. Everything is
+dumped down in wild confusion here--mountains and valleys, hills and
+hollows, houses and shanties, tanks and derricks, rocks and stones,
+trees, bushes, flowers, logs, stumps, brush, and little brooks fringed
+with bright bergamot flowers which cast their crimson over the waters
+and lade the air with their perfume. On we go past lots of stations,
+but there are not many houses after we get fairly out of the land of
+derricks. Through cuts and over tressels and fills--but now we are 17
+miles from B., and going slowly over the great Kinzua bridge, which is
+the highest railway bridge in the world. It is 2,062 feet from abutment
+to abutment, and the height of rail above the bed of the creek is 302
+feet. Kinzua creek is only a little stream that looks like a thread of
+silver in the great valley of hemlock forest. Will mother earth ever
+again produce such a grand forest for her children? Well, for once I
+feel quite high up in the world. Even Ex-President Grant, with all the
+honors that were heaped upon him while he "swung around the circle,"
+never felt so elevated as he did when he came to see this bridge, and
+exclaimed while crossing it, "Judas Priest, how high up we are!"
+
+It is well worth coming far to cross this bridge. I do not experience
+the fear I expected I would. The bridge is built wide, with foot walks
+at either side, and the cars run very slow.
+
+One hotel and a couple of little houses are all that can be seen
+excepting trees. I do hope the woodman will spare this great
+valley--its noble trees untouched--and allow it to forever remain as
+one of Pennsylvania's grandest forest pictures.
+
+Reader, I wish I could tell you of the great, broad, beautiful
+mountains of Pennsylvania that lift their rounded tops 2,000 to 2,500
+feet above sea level. But as the plains of Nebraska are beyond
+description, so are the mountains.
+
+J. R. Buchanan says: "No one can appreciate God until he has trod the
+plains and stood upon the mountain peaks."
+
+To see and learn of these great natural features of our land but
+enlarges our love for the Great Creator, who alone could spread out the
+plains and rear the mountains, and enrich them with just what His
+children need. To wind around among and climb the broad, rugged
+mountains of Pennsylvania is to be constantly changing views of the
+most picturesque scenery of all the states of the Union.
+
+Arrived at DuBois 5 P.M. This road has only been in use since in June,
+and the people gather round as though it was yet a novelty to see the
+trains come in. I manage to land safely with all my luggage in hand,
+and make my way through the crowd to Dr. Smathers'. There stood Francis
+watching the darkies pass on their way to camp meeting; but when he
+recognized this darkey, he danced a jig around me, and ran on before to
+tell mamma "Auntie Pet" had come. I could not wait until I reached the
+"wee Margaretta" to call to her, and then came Sister Maggie, and were
+not we glad? and, oh! how thankful for all this mercy! and the new moon
+looked down upon us, and looked glad too. These were glad, happy days,
+but I was not yet home. Father and Norval came in a few days. Norval to
+go with Charley to Nebraska, and father to take his daughter home.
+
+"Well, Frank, you look just like the same girl after all your
+wandering," father said, as he wiped his eyes after the first greeting:
+
+"Yes, nothing seems to change Pet, only she is much healthier looking
+than when she went away," Maggie said.
+
+August 10. Father and I started early for a forty mile drive home,
+through farming and timber country. About one-third is cleared land,
+the rest is woods, stumps, and stones. At noon "Colonel" was fed, and
+we sat down under pine trees and took our lunch of dried buffalo meat
+from the west, peaches from the south, and apples from home. Well, I
+thought, that is just the way this world gets mixed up. It takes a
+mixture to make a good dinner, and a mixture to make a good world.
+
+While going through Punxsutawney (Gnat-town), I read the sign over a
+shed, "Farming Implements." I looked, and saw one wagon, a plow, and
+something else, I guess it was a stump puller. I could not help
+comparing the great stock of farming implements seen in every little
+western town.
+
+Along Big Mahoning creek, over good and bad roads, up hill and down we
+go, until we cross Little Mahoning--bless its bright waters!--and once
+more I look upon Smicksburg, my own native town--the snuggest, dearest
+little town I ever did see! and surrounded by the prettiest hills. If I
+wasn't so tired, I'd make a bow to every hill and everybody. Two miles
+farther on, up a long hill, and just as the sun sends its last rays
+aslant through the orchard, we halt at the gate of "Centre Plateau,"
+and as I am much younger than father, I get out and swing wide the
+gate. It is good to hear the old gate creak a "welcome home" on its
+rusty hinges once more, and while father drives down the lane I slip
+through a hole in the fence, where the rails are crooked, and chase
+Rosy up from her snug fence corner; said "how do you do," to Goody and
+her calf, and start Prim into a trot; and didn't we all run across the
+meadow to the gate, where my dear mother stood waiting for me.
+
+"Mother, dear, your daughter is safe home at last," I said, "and won't
+leave you soon again!"
+
+Poor mother was too glad to say much. I skipped along the path into the
+house, and Hattie (Charlie's wife) and I made such a fuss that we
+frightened Emma and Harry into a cry.
+
+I carried the milk to the spring-house for mother, and while she
+strains it away, I tell her all about Uncle John's and the rest of the
+friends.
+
+Come, reader, and sit down with me, and have a slice of my dear
+mother's bread and butter, and have some cream for your blackberries,
+and now let's eat. I've been hungry so long for a meal at home. And how
+good to go to my own little room, and thank God for this home coming at
+my own bedside, and then lay me down to sleep.
+
+Then there were uncles, aunts, and cousins to visit and friends to see
+and tell all about my trip, and how I liked the West. Then "Colonel"
+was hitched up, and we children put off for a twenty mile ride to visit
+Brother Will's. First came Sister Lizzie to greet us, then dear May,
+shy little Frantie, and squealing, kicking Charlie boy was kissed--but
+where is Will?
+
+"Out at the oats field?"
+
+"Come, May, take me to your papa; I can't wait until supper time to see
+him." Together we climb the hill, then through the woods to the back
+field. Leaving May to pick huckleberries and fight the "skeeters," I go
+through the stubble. Stones are plenty, and I throw one at him. Down
+goes the cradle and up goes his hat, with "Three cheers for sister!"
+
+As we trudge down the hill, I said:
+
+"Let's go West, Will, where you have no hills to climb, and can do your
+farming with so much less labor. Why, I didn't see a cradle nor a
+scythe while I was in Nebraska. Surely, it is the farmer's own state."
+
+"Well, I would like to go if father and mother could go too, but I will
+endure the extra work here for the sake of being near them. If they
+could go along I would like to try life in the West."
+
+Home again, and I must get to my writing, for I want to have my book
+out by the last of September. I had just got nicely interested, when
+mother puts her head in at the door, and says, with such a disappointed
+look:
+
+"Oh! are you at your writing? I wanted you to help me pick some
+huckleberries for supper."
+
+Now, who wouldn't go with a dear, good mother? The writing is put
+aside, and we go down the lane to the dear old woods, and the
+huckleberries are gathered.
+
+Seated again--
+
+"Frank," father says, "I guess you will have to be my chore boy while
+Norval is away. Come, I'd like you to turn the grindstone for me while
+I make a corn cutter."
+
+Now, who wouldn't turn a grindstone for a dear, good father?
+
+There stood father with a broken "sword of Bunker Hill" in his hand
+that he found on the battle field of Bunker Hill, in Virginia.
+
+"Now, father, if you are sure that was a rebel sword, I'll willingly
+turn until it is all ground up; but if it is a Union sword, why then,
+"Hang the old sword in its place," and sharpen up your old corn
+cutters, and don't let's turn swords into plowshares now even though it
+be a time of peace."
+
+I lock the door and again take up my pen. "Rattle, rattle at the
+latch," and "Oo witing, Aunt Pet? Baby and Emma wants to kiss Aunt
+Pet!" comes in baby voice through the key-hole. The key is quickly
+turned, and my little golden-haired "niece" and "lover" invade my
+sanctum sanctorum, and for a time I am a perfect martyr to kisses on
+the cheeks, mouth, and, as a last resort for an excuse, my little lover
+puts up his lips for a kiss "on oo nose." Now, who wouldn't be a martyr
+to kisses--I mean baby kisses?
+
+Thus my time went until the grapes and peaches were ripe, and then came
+the apples--golden apples, rosy-cheeked apples, and the russet brown.
+And didn't we children help to eat, gather, store away, and dry until I
+finished the drying in a hurry by setting fire to the dry house. The
+cold days came before I got rightly settled down to write again, and
+although cold blows the wind and the snow is piling high, while the
+thermometer says 20 deg. below, yet all I have to do is to take up a
+cracked slate and write. But I write right over the crack now until the
+slate is filled, and then it is copied off; I write I live the days all
+over again; eating Mrs. Skirving's good things, riding behind oxen and
+mules, crossing the Niobrara, viewing the Keya Paha, standing on Stone
+Butte, walking the streets of Valentine, and even yet I feel as though
+I was running the gauntlet, while the cowboys line the walks.
+Government mules are running off with me, now I am enjoying the
+"Pilgrim's Retreat," and I go on until I have all told and every day
+lived over again in fond memory. And through it I learn a lesson of
+faith and trust.
+
+So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for
+the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left
+Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along
+this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary
+winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet
+piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan
+Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave
+Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I
+will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We
+approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge,
+about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the
+whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The
+river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet
+deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225
+feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch
+only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing
+quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the
+bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south
+we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the
+train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again.
+Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and
+see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more
+favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly
+by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I
+am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of
+the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet
+of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our
+view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can
+do justice to Niagara Falls.
+
+I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or
+leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil
+is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy.
+
+A little snow was to be seen along the way, but not as much as in New
+York; the country does not look very thrifty; poor houses and neglected
+farms; here and there are stretches of forest. Crossed the Detroit
+river on a boat as we did the Missouri, but it is dark and I can only
+see the reflection of the electric light on the water as we cross to
+the Michigan shore. The night is dark and I sleep all I can. I did not
+get to see much of Michigan as we reached Chicago at eight, Friday
+morning. But there was a friend there to meet me with whom I spent five
+days in seeing a little mite of the great city. Sunday, I attended some
+of the principal churches and was surprised at the quiet dress of the
+people generally and also to hear every one join in singing the good
+old tunes, and how nice it was; also a mission Sunday-school in one of
+the bad parts of the city, where children are gathered from hovels of
+vice and sin by a few earnest christian people who delight in gathering
+up the little ones while they are easily influenced. Well, I thought,
+Chicago is not all wicked and bad. It has its philanthropists and
+earnest christian workers, who are doing noble work. Monday, Lincoln
+Park was visited, and how I did enjoy its pleasant walks on that bright
+day, and throwing pebbles into Lake Michigan. Tuesday, went to see the
+panorama of the battle of Gettysburg. There now, don't ask me anything
+about it, only if you are in Chicago while it is on exhibition, go to
+corner Wabash avenue and Hubbard Court, pay your fifty cents and look
+for yourself. I was completely lost when I looked around, and felt that
+I had just woke up among the hills of Pennsylvania. But painted among
+the beautiful hills was one of the saddest sights eyes ever looked
+upon. The picture was life size and only needed the boom of the
+artillery and the groans of the dying to give it life. Wednesday
+morning brother Charles came with a party of twenty, bound for the
+Platte Valley, Nebraska, but I could not go with them as they went over
+the C. & N.W.R.R., and as I had been over that road, I wished to go
+over the C.B. & Q.R.R. for a change; so we met only to separate. I
+left on the 12.45, Wednesday, and for a way traveled over the same road
+that I have before described. There is not much to tell of prairie land
+in the early spring time and I am too tired to write. We crossed the
+Mississippi river at Burlington, 207 miles from Chicago, but it is
+night and we are deprived of seeing what would be an interesting view.
+Indeed it is little we see of Iowa, "beautiful land," as so much of it
+is passed over in the night. 482 miles from Chicago, we cross the
+Missouri river at Plattsmouth. 60 miles farther brings us to Lincoln,
+arriving there at 12 M. March 27. I surprised Deacon Keefer's again
+just at tea-time. Mother Keefer received me with open arms, and my
+welcome was most cordial from all, and I was invited to make my home
+with them during my stay in Lincoln.
+
+My next work was to see about the printing of my book. I met Mr.
+Hathaway, of the State Journal Co., and found their work and terms
+satisfactory, and on the morning of the 24th of April, just one year
+from the day our colony left Bradford and the work of writing my book
+began, I made an agreement with the Journal company for the printing of
+it. I truly felt that with all its pleasures, it had been a year of
+hard labor.
+
+How often when I was busy plying the pen with all heart in the work,
+kind friends who wished me well would come to me with words of
+discouragement and ask me to lay aside my pen, saying:
+
+"I do not see how you are to manage about its publication, and all the
+labor it involves."
+
+"I do not know myself, but I have faith that if I do the work
+cheerfully, and to the best of my ability, and 'bearing well my burden
+in the heat of the day,' that the dear Lord who cared for me all
+through my wanderings while gathering material for this work, and put
+it into the hearts of so many to befriend me, will not forsake me at
+the last."
+
+"Did He forsake me," do you ask?
+
+"No, not for one moment." When asked for the name of some one in
+Lincoln as security, I went to one of my good friends who put their
+name down without hesitation.
+
+"What security do you want of me?" I asked.
+
+"Nothing, only do the best you can with your book."
+
+"The dear Lord put it into your heart to do this in answer to my many
+prayers that when the way was dark, and my task heavy, helping hands
+would be reached out to me."
+
+"Why God bless you, little girl! The Lord will carry you through, so
+keep up brave heart, and do not be discouraged."
+
+I would like to tell you the name of this good friend, but suffice it
+to say he is one whom, when but a lad, Abraham Lincoln took into his
+confidence, and by example taught him many a lesson of big-heartedness
+such as only Abraham Lincoln could teach.
+
+_Friday, May 9th._ I went to Wymore to pay my last visit to my dear
+aunt, fearing that I would not find her there. But the dear Father
+spared her life and she was able to put her arms about me and welcome
+me with: "The Lord is very good to bring you to me in time. I was
+afraid you would come too late." Sunday her spirit went down to the
+water's edge and she saw the lights upon the other shore and said:
+"What a beautiful light! Oh! if I had my will I would cross over just
+now." But life lingered and I left her on Monday. Wednesday brought me
+this message: "Mother has just fallen asleep." With this shadow of
+sorrow upon me I went to Milford that day to begin my Maying of '84
+with a row on the river and a sun-set view on the Blue.
+
+"Is there a touch lacking or a color wanting?" I asked, as I looked up
+to the western sky at the beautiful picture, and down upon the mirror
+of waters, and saw its reflection in its depth.
+
+The 15th of May dawned bright and beautiful; not a cloud flecked the
+sky all the livelong day. We gathered the violets so blue and the
+leaves so green of Shady Cliff and the Retreat, talking busily of other
+May-days, and thinking of the loved ones at home who were keeping my
+May-day in the old familiar places.
+
+Then back to Lincoln carrying bright trophies of our Maying at Milford,
+and just at the close of day, when evening breathes her benediction,
+friends gathered round while two voices repeated: "With this ring I
+thee wed. By this token I promise to love and cherish."
+
+And now reader, hoping that I may some day meet you in _my_ "Diary
+of a Minister's Wife," I bid you GOOD-BYE.
+
+ [Illustration:
+
+ FREMONT, ELKHORN AND MISSOURI VALLEY R.R.
+ AND CONNECTIONS, TO THE FREE HOMES FOR THE MILLION.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's To and Through Nebraska, by Frances I. Sims Fulton
+
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