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diff --git a/44779-0.txt b/44779-0.txt index 4289b9f..c240b1d 100644 --- a/44779-0.txt +++ b/44779-0.txt @@ -1,28 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Strange Teas, Dinners, Weddings and Fetes, by Various - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Strange Teas, Dinners, Weddings and Fetes - -Author: Various - -Release Date: January 28, 2014 [eBook #44779] -[Most recently updated: January 10, 2023] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Emmy, Dianna Adair and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES *** - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44779 *** [Transcriber's Note: Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and italic text is surrounded by _underscores_.] @@ -2743,354 +2719,4 @@ Page 129, "pntting" changed to "putting" (putting up preserves) Page 129, "apprporiate" changed to "appropriate" (choice and appropriate) - - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Strange Teas, Dinners, Weddings and Fetes</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Various</div> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: January 28, 2014 [eBook #44779]<br /> -[Most recently updated: January 10, 2023]</div> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Emmy, Dianna Adair and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team</div> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES ***</div> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44779 ***</div> <div class="figcenter" style="width: 489px;"> <img src="images/cover.jpg" width="489" height="800" alt="Cover" /> @@ -3681,447 +3664,6 @@ things one hardly knows which to choose first.</p> <p>Page 129, "apprporiate" changed to "appropriate" (choice and appropriate)</p> </div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Strange Teas, Dinners, Weddings and Fetes - -Author: Various - -Release Date: January 28, 2014 [EBook #44779] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS *** - - - - -Produced by Emmy, Dianna Adair and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) Music transcribed by Linda Cantoni. - - - - - - - -[Transcriber's Note: Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and -italic text is surrounded by _underscores_. The letter "o" with a -macron above is shown in this plain text version as [=o] and the -oe-ligature is shown as [oe].] - - -STRANGE TEAS DINNERS WEDDINGS AND FETES - - BY - - VARIOUS AUTHORS - - BOSTON - D LOTHROP COMPANY - - FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS - - - - - COPYRIGHT 1887 - BY - D LOTHROP COMPANY - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE. - I. MY TEA TO MEHEMET ALI AND FAREEDIE 9 - II. A JAPANESE DINNER 21 - III. A ROMAN CHRISTMAS 31 - IV. SYLVESTER-ABEND 42 - V. A COPTIC WEDDING 51 - VI. IN THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE 57 - VII. AN ARAB DINNER-PARTY 66 - VIII. A BIRTHDAY PARTY IN THE WEST INDIES 79 - IX. A SIAMESE HAIR-CUTTING 91 - X. OLD ENGLISH HARVEST CUSTOMS 96 - XI. EASTER AT JERUSALEM 109 - XII. THE MOQUI SNAKE-DANCE 115 - - - - -STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES. - - - - -STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES. - - - - -I. - -MY TEA TO MEHEMET ALI AND FAREEDIE. - - -WHEN I lived in Syria, Midhat Pasha was appointed governor of the -Pashalic in which I resided, and came with great pomp and ceremony to -assume the duties of his position. His retinue consisted of a great -many guards, servants and soldiers, and, as they passed through the -street just below my balcony, I looked at them all with a great deal of -interest. - -The Pasha rode a fine bay horse and was dressed in European costume, -excepting that he wore a turban instead of a hat. He was short and -stout, well bronzed by the sun, and had that air of command which so -much distinguishes a soldier if he possesses it. He seemed to be about -fifty years of age, although I have heard he was much older. - -Just here I shall tell you that I never saw a tall and slender Turk, -though I have seen many handsome ones. They all seemed to show in their -features and frame their Tartar origin. - -Damascus is the capital of the Pashalic, and Midhat went there to live -in the palace of the Governors, which is near the famous Mosque of the -Sultan Selim. Damascus is about ninety miles from Beirt, and the road -that connects the two cities is an excellent one. It was built by the -French after the terrible massacres in the Lebanon Mountains in 1860. - -We soon heard the new Pasha was very much disliked in Damascus. He -tried to reform several abuses in the administration of affairs, and -gave great offence to all classes of the people; so he brought his -family with him and came to live in Beirt. - -The Turks are Orthodox Mohammedans, you know, and are polygamists. In -his youth Midhat married a lady, who was remarkable for her goodness, -and he esteemed her very much. But this lady had a great sorrow, for -no little children were hers. After awhile she asked Midhat to marry a -lady she knew, and he did so. - -These ladies were very fond of one another; the elder was the adviser -and counselor of her husband, interested in politics and business; the -other was very industrious, made beautiful fancy-work and embroidery, -and was always busy with her needle, so neither became a horrible -scold, nor a lazy, fat animal, as almost all Mohammedan women become -because they are so idle and have nothing to think about. - -I knew the two dear little children of the second wife. The boy, -Mehemet Ali, was seven years old, and the little girl, Fareedie, was -five. I became acquainted with them in this way. - -Midhat wished the children to be well educated, and he engaged an -English lady, named Mrs. Smith, to be their governess, with the -distinct understanding that she was never in any way to mention any -of the doctrines of our Christian religion to them. This was a hard -thing for her to promise, but she did so and assumed the charge of the -children. They slept in a room opening from hers and she watched over -them night and day with loving care. I knew Mrs. Smith very well, and -through her knew the children and their mother. - -The little ones could speak French very well (French is the favorite -language of all Orientals), but not any English. - -I seem to be a long time in reaching my story, but I had to tell you -all this, else how would you have known who Mehemet Ali and Fareedie -were, or how extraordinary it was for the children of a Turkish Pasha -to go anywhere to tea? - -I invited them to take luncheon with me, but Mrs. Smith said that would -interfere with their morning lessons, so the invitation was changed, -and I asked them to come to tea. - -It was a beautiful November afternoon (November in Syria is warm and is -the perfection of weather), and I sent a carriage for them at half-past -three o'clock. They soon came, no one with them but Mrs. Smith. - -Mehemet Ali wore a light gray suit made like an American boy's, only -his trousers were long and he had a red tarboosh on his head. He had -worn a hat, but this gave offence to the Turks and was one of the -charges made against his father by the people of Damascus, so it had -been discarded. - -Fareedie wore a dark blue velvet frock with a frill of lace around the -neck, and on her feet were little red Turkish slippers. She was very -beautiful, eager and quick--nay, passionate in all her feelings--and -from the time she entered my house until she left it in a quiver -of excitement. When she came in, she kissed me on the cheek and -gave me some white jasmine blossoms strung like beads upon a fine -wire, something little Syrian children are very fond of. Her first -astonishment was the long mirror in my wardrobe; she never had seen -one before, and when she caught sight of herself in it, she cried -breathlessly: "Oh! _trs jolie! trs jolie!_" and turned herself in -every direction to see the effect, then ran to me and gave me another -kiss and called me, "_chre Madame_." - -She darted hither and thither, looking at every thing and chattering; -but Mehemet Ali was very grave, although his little beady black eyes -were looking at everything also, and showed the interest he felt but -wished to conceal. - -Now Fareedie was on the balcony looking down on the fountain below -and some shrubs covered with wonderful large blue flowers (like -morning-glories, only ever so much larger)--"trees of flowers," she -called the shrubs; then she spied a little rocking-chair, something -that was a wonderful curiosity to her, and, when told that she might -sit in it, she rocked back and forth furiously, till I really feared -she would break her pretty little neck. - -I said to Mrs. Smith, "This will never do; I will take her on my lap -and show her pictures." - -"Yes," said she, "that will be a great treat, for she has never seen -any." - -"It is not possible!" I exclaimed. - -"Indeed it is. You forget the Mohammedans do not allow pictures -anywhere in their houses, and the little books I have to teach the -children from are French ones without illustrations." - -By this time I had gotten a book of Natural History, and, taking the -little girl on my knees, I said I would show her something. I opened -the book at random, and I shall never forget the look upon Fareedie's -face, nor the quiver that ran through her little body, when she saw the -picture and screamed out, "_Tigre! Tigre!_" - -At this Ali ran to us and the two turned over the pages hurriedly, -mentioning the names of each animal they knew, with a delight I cannot -describe to you. - -Then Ali said, "Perhaps, Madame, it may be you have a picture of an -engine of a ship--is it so?" - -(This sentence of Ali's I have translated for fear it would be hard for -you, if I gave it in French. You remember he did not know English.) - -"Now what shall I do!" I thought, "for I don't know anything about -engines, and I don't know where to find any pictures of them;" but -the black eyes helped in the search, and before I could think where -to look the boy seized upon a copy of the _Scientific American_, and -there, fortunately, were several pictures of engines and boilers. He -did not move for a long time afterward, except to say, "It is a regret -that I do not know the English to read." He sat as still as a statue, -perfectly absorbed, even pale, so intense were his feelings. - -Soon Prexea, my slender Syrian maid, came in and announced that tea was -served. Prexea was a Greek in religion and hated the Turks, so she was -not in a good humor, as I knew very well by the way she opened the door. - -Fareedie ran into the dining-room, but Ali evidently did not wish to -lay down his paper, till Mrs. Smith gently told him he must; then he -obeyed. - -"A table! Chairs! How droll! How droll!" cried Fareedie. - -And now a great difficulty presented itself. They had never sat at a -table, and I had no high chairs for them. They always sat on the floor, -on a rug, to eat, and had a low Arabic table put in front of each of -them. Their tables are about eighteen inches high, made of olive wood -inlaid with mother-of-pearl and silver, perhaps all silver. As to -dishes, the children seldom had even a bowl. - -Arabic bread is very peculiar. It is baked in thin flat cakes, about -the size of a dinner plate, and does not look in the least like bread, -more like leather. The children usually had one of these cakes for the -dish, and all that they were to have to eat would be put on it, then -another cake would be given to them which they would break in pieces, -using them as spoons, and last of all, eating spoons and dish, too. - -So you can imagine how surprised they were when they saw my table. But -what about chairs for them? A brilliant idea struck me. I ran to the -bookcase and got two dictionaries, which I put on the chairs they were -to occupy, and with Ali on Webster's and Fareedie on Worcester's, we -began our meal. - -Ali had been very serious during these proceedings and, as soon as we -were seated, he pointed to my sideboard and the silver on it, and said -impressively, "_Trs magnifique!_" - -The knives and forks were too much for them. They sawed away with the -one and speared the food with the other so ineffectively, that we told -them they might eat with their fingers, which they did very nicely. - -I had tea and coffee, sandwiches, cold chicken, blackberry jam, and -other sweets and cake. The sandwiches were of eggs, not ham, of course; -for it would have been an insult to their parents to have let them -taste pork, which is held in great abhorrence by all Mohammedans. Why, -many of them will not wear European shoes, for fear the bristles of -swine may have been used in sewing them. - -Both children asked for coffee "_ la Frank_," as they called it. They -had never seen it with cream in it, nor served in anything but a tiny -Oriental cup. I gave it to them in our own coffee cups, with plenty of -cream in, and they stirred it with their spoons and said it was "very -grand." - -Fareedie was a little sloppy, I must confess, but otherwise they -behaved very politely. - -But the questions they asked! Fareedie was an animated interrogation -point, I thought; and after tea Ali lost his impassiveness, and went -round the house examining everything with curiosity, especially -anything that could be moved, or had casters on it. - -At last the visit was over. My tall "cawass" came in and announced -the carriage was at the door to take them home. With many promises to -come again, they went away, kissing me lovingly, Ali with the coveted -_Scientific American_ under his arm, and Fareedie with a cup and saucer -her little heart had longed for. - -But they never did come, and I never saw them anywhere again. For, -Wasif Effendi, the Secretary of the Pasha, hated Mrs. Smith, and by -some underhand means contrived to have her dismissed. Then Midhat -was transferred to Smyrna, and my little friends left Beirt, -never to return, I fear. Perhaps you know the Pasha was ordered to -Constantinople and tried for the murder of the Sultan Abdul Aziz. It -was proved that he had been an accomplice, and he was exiled for life, -to a place called Jeddah. - -And there on the shores of the terrible Red Sea, near Mecca, and far -from all civilizing and good influences, my dear little friends are -forced to live. Their father is dead, but his family are still at -Jeddah. - -You would be surprised to know how often I think of them, and how sad -it makes me. Their future is full of peril. I wonder if they ever think -of me! - - - - -II. - -A JAPANESE DINNER. - - -THE dinner was given at the _Koyokan_, a club-house in the city of -Tokio, so called from the abundance of maple trees by which it is -surrounded; _k[=o]y[=o]_ meaning the red maple leaves of autumn, and -_kan_ meaning house. - -We took off our shoes at the door, and those who had not been -sufficiently provident to bring with them a pair of wool slippers, -entered in their stocking feet. - -We were at once greeted by our host and hostess. Japanese ladies do -not often act the hostess at a dinner-party, but usually remain in -the background. Our friend, however, having travelled considerably in -America and Europe, was advanced in his ideas, and gave his wife a -wife's place. - -Several beautiful Japanese girls were in waiting who at once conducted -us to a spacious dining-room on the second floor. - -Going out on the long piazza adjoining, we saw in the distance the bay -with its calm blue waters and white-winged boats; and to the right -Mount Fuji, her peerless head losing itself in ambient clouds; while at -our feet lay a bewildering maze of dwelling houses, shops, and temples. - -The floor of the porch was polished smooth as marble, and the patterns -in the lattice work were graceful combinations of maple leaves. - -As we re-entered the dining-room our first impression was that of a -vast empty apartment. The only visible signs of preparation for our -coming were the cushions upon which we were to sit, and the _hibachi_ -or fire bowls, over which we were to toast our fingers. We sat down -upon the mats, trying hard to fold our limbs under us _ la Japanese_, -but our attempts were for the most part very awkward. - -Then came some introductions. Our host had invited two friends to meet -us, Mr. and Mrs. Suyita. Mr. Suyita, being a Japanese of the old school -and very ceremonious, bowed low, so low that his honorable nose quite -kissed the floor; and remembering that when we are in Turkey we must -do as the Turkeys do, we endeavored to salute him in the same formal -manner. - -At length recovering our equilibrium we resumed our old position on -the mats, tried to look comfortable, and began to study the details -of our surroundings. The cushions upon which we sat were covered with -beautiful dark-blue crpe relieved here and there by branches of maple -leaves, the rich October coloring making a striking but exquisite -contrast with the more sombre background. The mats were marvellously -fine, and so clean that one might suppose our party the first that had -ever assembled there. - -At one end of the room just above the _toko-noma_, or raised platform -on which all the ornaments of the room are placed, was a _kakemono_, or -picture scroll, the work of a celebrated painter named Isanenobu, and -very old. On this platform stood a large vase of brown wicker work so -wondrously fine that at a little distance it appeared like an elegant -bronze. In this vase were branches of flowering plum and cherry -arranged as only Japanese know how to arrange flowers. The ceilings -were panels of cryptomeria, and without either paint or varnish, were -beautiful enough for a prince's palace. - -This immense room was divided by sliding doors into three apartments. -The doors were covered with paper. Here, too, was the prevailing -pattern, for over the rich brown background of the paper were -maple-leaf designs in gold and silver, and above the doors were -paintings of maple branches with foliage of scarlet, maroon, and every -shade of green. On the opposite side of the room was another raised -platform. Here also were two large vases, and in them branches of -flowering shrubs, some of which were covered with lichens. A bronze -ornament of rare workmanship stood between, for which many a seeker of -curiosities would give hundreds of dollars. - -Soon beautiful serving-maids entered and placed in front of us trays -on which were tea and sweetmeats. In Japan the dessert comes first. -The trays were ornamented with carvings of maple leaves, the tea-cups -were painted in the same design, and the cakes themselves were in -the shape of maple leaves, with tints as glowing, and shading almost -as delicate as though painted by the early frosts of autumn. We ate -some of the cakes and put some in our pockets to carry home. It is -etiquette in Japan to take away a little of the confectionery, and -paper is often provided by the hostess in which to wrap it. The native -guests put their packages in their sleeves, but our sleeves were not -sufficiently capacious to be utilized in this way. I have been told -that at a foreign dinner given to General Grant in Japan, some of the -most dignified officials, in obedience to this custom, put bread and -cake, and even butter and jelly, into their sleeves to take home. - -After our first course came a long interval during which we played -games and amused ourselves in various ways. At the end of this time -dinner was announced. Once more we took our places on the cushions -and silently waited, wondering what would happen next. Soon the -charming waiters again appeared and placed on the floor in front of -each visitor a beautiful gold lacquer tray, on which were a covered -bowl of fish soup, and a tiny cup of _sake_. _Sake_ is a light wine -distilled from rice, and is of about the strength of table sherry. A -paper bag containing a pair of chopsticks also rested upon the tray; -and taking the chopsticks out, we uncovered our soup and began to look -around to see how our Japanese friends were eating theirs. We shyly -watched them for a moment. It looked easy; we were sure we could do it, -and confidently attempted to take up some of the floating morsels of -fish; but no sooner did we touch them, than they coyly floated off to -the other side of the bowl. We tried again, and again we failed; and -once again, but with no better success. At last our perseverance was -partially rewarded, and with a _veni-vidi-vici_ air we conveyed a few -solid fragments to our mouths, drank a little of the soup, and then -covering our bowl, as we saw others do, we waited for something else to -happen. - -In the meantime large china vessels of hot water had been brought in -and our host kindly showed us their use. Emptying his _sake_ cup, -he rinsed it in the hot water, and then re-filling it with wine, -presented it to a friend who emptied his cup, rinsed and re-filled it -in the same way, and gave it in exchange for the one he received. - -The next course consisted of fish, cakes made of chestnuts, and yams; -the third, of raw fish with a very pungent sauce; the fourth, of -another kind of fish and ginger root. After this we were favored with -music on the _ningenkin_. This is a harp-like instrument giving forth -a low weird sound, utterly unlike anything I have ever heard called -music. The fifth course consisted of fish, ginger root, and "_nori_," a -kind of seaweed. - -After this we had more music, this time on the _koto_. The _koto_ is -also something like a harp in appearance. The performer always wears -curious ivory thimble-like arrangements on the tips of her fingers, and -to my uneducated ear, the so-called music is merely a noise which any -one could make. We were next favored with singing. This, too, was low -and plaintive, bearing about the same resemblance to the singing of a -European that the cornstalk fiddle of a country schoolboy bears to -the rich mellow tones of a choice violin. This same singing, however, -is regarded as a great accomplishment in Japan. The singer on this -occasion was a rare type of Japanese beauty, fair as a lily, with hands -and feet so delicate and shapely that she was almost an object of envy. -Her coiffure, like the coiffures of all Japanese women, was fearfully -and wonderfully made. Her dress was of the richest crpe, quite long -and very narrow, opening in front to display a gorgeous petticoat, -and with square flowing sleeves that reached almost to the floor. Her -_obi_, or girdle, was brocade stiff with elegance, and probably cost -more than all the rest of the costume. The mysteries of the voluminous -knot in which it was tied at the back I will not pretend to unravel. -Her face and neck were powdered to ghostly whiteness, and her lips -painted a bright coral; altogether she looked just like a picture, not -like a real woman at all. - -After this came another course consisting of fowl and fish stewed -together in some incomprehensible way. There was also an entree of -pickled fish. The eighth course consisted of fish and a vegetable -similar to asparagus; the ninth of rice and pickled _daikon_. Rice is -the staple dish, and, according to Japanese custom, is served last. -The _daikon_ is a vegetable somewhat resembling a radish. It grows to -an enormous size. Indeed it is a common saying among vegetable-growers -that one _daikon_ grown in the province of Owari, takes two men to -carry it, and that two Satsuma turnips make a load for a pony. This -sounds somewhat incredible, and yet it is stated for a fact that a -_daikon_ was not long ago presented to the emperor which measured -over six feet in girth. These monster turnips are generally sound to -the core; and to the Japanese they are an exceedingly delicate and -palatable aliment; with us the odor of them alone is sufficient to -condemn them. - -Last of all came tea which was served in the rice bowls without washing -them. The dinner lasted four hours; and when at the close we attempted -to rise from the mats, our limbs were so stiff from sitting so long in -this uncomfortable position that we could hardly move. - -We put on our shoes soon after, and were then conducted round the -grounds. In the same enclosure was a summer rest-house for the -Mikado. We looked inside for the _sh[=o]ji_, or sliding doors, were -all open, and we could see the whole length of the house. Here, as -in all Japanese houses, the mats were the only furniture. They were -beautifully fine, and the rooms though empty were attractive. - -After walking about for a little while we went through a long -calisthenic exercise of bows, and with warmest thanks to our kind host -and hostess, stowed ourselves away in _jinrikishas_, and rode off to -our homes. - -This of course is not a description of an ordinary dinner in Japan. -Indeed it was a very extraordinary one given in honor of a party of -Americans about to return to the United States. The common people dine -with very little formality. Bread, beef, milk and butter are unknown -to them. They live principally on rice, fish, and vegetables, served -in very simple fashion; and they eat so rapidly that dyspepsia is even -more common in Japan than in America. - - - - -III. - -A ROMAN CHRISTMAS. - - -CHRISTMAS is as great a day for young Romans as it is for young -Americans, and on it they, like other boys and girls, eat too much -candy and get more new toys than they know what to do with. But they -have one way of keeping it which other children do not have; and as I -was in Rome one Christmas, I will tell you what I saw them do. - -In the morning, about half-past ten, I went to a church on the Capitol -Hill, called Church of the Altar of Heaven. This hill is high and -there are one hundred and twenty-four steps leading to the door of -the church. It was a dull gray day, and the rain was pouring down so -hard that there were little pools and streams all over the old stone -steps. But many people were going up. There were men from the country -in blue coats and short trousers, and women with bodices and square -white head-dresses, who carried the largest umbrellas you have ever -seen, blue or green, or purple with bright borders around them. And -there were children, more than you could count, some with the country -people, others with their nurses, and many who were very ragged, all -by themselves. At the top of the steps men were selling pious pictures -and did not seem to mind the rain in the least. Over the doors were red -hangings in honor of Christmas. - -Inside were more people. At the far end service was going on and the -monks, to whom the church belongs, were chanting, and there was a great -crowd around the altar. But near the door by which I came in, and in -a side aisle was a still larger crowd, and it was here that all the -little ones had gathered together. They were waiting in front of a -chapel, the doors of which were closed tight. For they knew that behind -them was the Manger which every year the monks put up in their church. -Right by the chapel was a big statue of a Pope, larger than life, and -some eager boys had climbed up on it and were standing at its knee. -And some who had arrived very late were perched on another statue like -it on the other side, and even in the baptismal font and on tombstones -at the foot of the church. Women and men were holding up their babies, -all done up in queer tight bandages, that they too might see. And all -were excited and looking impatiently down the long aisle. Presently, as -I waited with the children, there came from the side door a procession. -First came men in gray robes, holding lighted tapers, then monks in -brown with ropes around their waists, and last three priests who -carried a statue of the Infant which is almost as old as the church -itself. When they reached the chapel the doors were thrown open, and -they took this statue in and placed it at the foot of those of the -Virgin and St. Joseph. - -I wish you could have been there to look in as I did. It was all so -bright and sunny and green. It seemed like a bit of summer come back. -In front was the Holy Family with great baskets of real oranges and -many bright green things at their feet. And above them, in the clouds, -were troops of angels playing on harps and mandolins, and in the -distance you could see the shepherds and their sheep, and then palm -trees, and a town with many houses. It was so pretty that a little -whisper of wonder went through all the crowd, while many of the boys -and girls near me shouted aloud for joy. - -So soon as the procession was over, every eye was turned from the -chapel to a small platform on the other side of the church. It had -been raised right by an old column which, long before this church -was built, must have stood in some temple of Pagan Rome. Out on the -platform stepped a little bit of a girl, as fresh and as young as the -column was old and gray. She was all in white, and she made a pretty -courtesy to the people, and then when she saw so many faces turned -towards her, she tried to run away. But her mother, who was standing -below, would not let her, but whispered a few words in her ear, and the -little thing came back and began to give us all a fine sermon about -the Christ-child. Such funny little gestures as she made! Just like a -puppet, and, every now and then, she looked away from us and down into -her mother's face, as if the sermon were all for her. But her voice was -very sweet, and by and by she went down on her knees and raised her -hands to Heaven and said a prayer as solemnly as if she really had been -a young preacher. But after that, with another courtesy, she jumped -down from her pulpit platform as fast as ever she could. - -And this is the way Roman children celebrate Christmas. On Christmas -Day, and for a week afterwards, for one hour every afternoon, they -preach their sermons, and all the people in the city and the country -around, the young and the old, the grave and the gay, come to hear them. - -I made a second visit to the church two or three days later. The rain -had stopped and the sky was bright and blue, and the sun was shining -right on the steps, for it was about three in the afternoon. And such -a sight you have never seen! From top to bottom people were going and -coming, many in the gayest of gay colors. And on each side were pedlers -selling toys. "Everything here for a cent!" they were calling. And -others were selling books, through which an old priest was looking, and -oranges with the fresh green leaves still on their stems, and beans, -which the Romans love better than almost anything else, and pious -pictures and candy. Ragged urchins, who had spent their pennies, had -cleared a space in one corner and were sending off toy trains of cars. -Climbing up in front of me, two by two, were about twenty little boys, -all studying to be priests and dressed in the long black gowns and -broad-brimmed hats which priests in Italy wear. To one side was a fine -lady in slippers with such high heels that she had to rest every few -minutes on her way up. On the other were three old monks with long gray -beards and sandals on their bare feet. And at the church door there -was such pushing in and out that it took me about five minutes to get -inside. - -[Illustration: WAITING TO SEE THE BAMBINO.] - -Here I found a greater crowd even than on Christmas. There were -ever so many peasants, the men's hair standing straight up on end, -something like Slovenly Peter's only much shorter, and the women, -clasping their bundles of babies in their arms. And close to them were -finely dressed little girls and boys with their nurses. If you once -saw a Roman nurse, you would never forget her, for she wears a very -gay-colored dress, all open at the neck, around which are strings of -coral. And on her head is a ruching of ribbon, tied at the back with a -bow and long ends, and through her hair is a long silver pin, and in -her ears, large ear-rings. And there were many priests and monks and -even soldiers, and the boys had climbed up again on the statues, and -one youngster had put a baby he was taking care of right in the Pope's -lap. - -The lights were burning in the Manger, but the people were standing -around the platform, for the preaching had begun. Before I left I heard -about ten little boys and girls make their speeches. One or two of the -girls were quite grown up, that is to say they were perhaps ten or -twelve years old. And they spoke very prettily and did not seem in the -least bit afraid. Some wore fine clothes and had on hats and coats, and -even carried muffs. But others had shabby dresses, and their heads -were covered with scraps of black veils. First came a young miss, whose -words tumbled out of her mouth, she was so ready with them, and who -made very fine gestures, just as if she had been acting in a theatre. -And next came a funny little round-faced child, who could hardly talk -because she was cutting her teeth and had none left in the front of -her mouth, and who clutched her dress with both hands, and never once -clasped them or raised them to Heaven, or pointed them to the Manger, -as I am sure she had been taught to do. But she was so frightened I was -glad for her sake when her turn was over. Two little sisters, with hats -as big as the halos around the saints' heads in the pictures, recited a -short dialogue, and all through it they held each other's hands tight -for comfort, even when they knelt side by side and said a prayer for -all of us who were listening. And after that a little bit of a tot said -her little piece, and she shrugged her shoulders until they reached her -pretty little ears, and she smiled so sweetly all the time, that when -she had finished every one was smiling with her, and some even laughed -outright. But while they were still laughing a boy, such a wee thing, -even smaller than the little smiler, dressed in a sailor suit and with -close-cropped yellow head, toddled out. He stood still a moment and -looked at us. Then he opened his mouth very wide, but not a word could -he get out. His poor little face grew so red, and he looked as if he -were about to cry. And the next moment he had rushed off and into his -mother's arms. But indeed the big boy who took his place was almost -as badly scared, and half the time he thrust his hands deep into his -pockets, and you could see it was hard work for him to jerk them out to -make a few gestures. - -They were all pretty little sermons and prayers, and I think they must -have done the people good. When I went out from the cool gray church -on to the steps again, the sun shone right into my eyes and half -blinded me, and perhaps it was that which made me sneeze twice. A small -bareheaded girl ran out from the crowd when she heard me, and cried -"_Salute!_" which is the Italian way of saying "God bless you." And I -thought it a very fitting Amen to the sermons. - - - - -IV. - -SYLVESTER-ABEND. - - -SYLVESTER-ABEND is one of the prettiest and brightest of German -festivals and is almost as much enjoyed as Christmas Eve, but I do not -know that any one has described it to American children. - -It so happened a few years ago that I was spending the holidays in one -of the pleasantest homes in one of the most beautiful towns of South -Germany, and there I learned how this festival was kept. - -The first of January being in that country St. Sylvester's Day, it is -New Year's Eve which is celebrated as Sylvester Eve, or Abend. - -"You will come into the drawing-room, after coffee, and see the -Christmas-tree plundered," the Doctor's wife had said to me, smiling, -at dinner; and all the children had clapped their hands and shouted, -"Oh yes! the Christmas-tree plundered, huzza!" - -There were more children around the Frau Doctor's table than you -could easily count. Indeed, there were more than the long table could -accommodate, and three or four had to be seated at the round "Cat's -table" in the bow window. There were the two fair-haired little -daughters of the house, their tall, twelve-year-old brother, two little -Russian boys, three Americans, and another German, who boasts of being -the godson of the Crown Prince; all these were studying under the -direction of Monsieur P---- the French tutor. Besides, there were half -a dozen older boys, who had come from all parts of the globe, England, -Cuba, Chili, and where not, to study with the Herr Doctor himself, who -is a learned German Professor. And since to-day was holiday--there -was little Hugo, pet and baby, standing upon his mother's knee, -clapping his hands and shouting with all his might "Me too! plunder -Christmas-tree!" - -"Why do you call it Sylvester Evening?" I asked the Frau Doctor. - -"Because it _is_ Sylvester evening; that is, to-day is dedicated to -St. Sylvester, in the Romish Calendar. He was bishop of Rome in the -time of the Emperor Constantine, I believe. But there is no connection -between the saint's day and the tree-plundering. Still we always do it -on Sylvester evening, and so, I think, do most people because it is a -convenient time, as every one is sitting up to watch for the birth of -the New Year. In some families, however, the tree is kept until Twelfth -Night, and in yet others it is plundered the third or fourth day after -Christmas." - -"Is there any story about St. Sylvester?" asked Nicholas, the bright -little Russian, always on the lookout for stories. - -"More than one; but I have only time to tell you one which I think the -prettiest. You are not to believe it, however. - -"When the Emperor Constantine who had been a heathen, was converted -to Christianity, some Jewish Rabbis came, to try to make him a Jew. -St. Sylvester was teaching the Emperor about Christ, and the Rabbis -tried to prove that what he said was false; but they could not. At -this, they were angry, and they brought a fierce wild bull, and told -Sylvester to whisper his god's name in its ear, and he should see that -it would fall down dead. Sylvester whispered, and the beast did fall -dead. Then the Rabbis were very triumphant. Even the emperor began to -believe that they must be right. But Sylvester told them that he had -uttered the name of Satan, not of Christ, in the bull's ear, for Christ -gave life, not destroyed it. Then he asked the Rabbis to restore the -creature to life, and when they could not, Sylvester whispered the name -of Christ, and the bull rose up, alive, and as mild and gentle as it -had before been fierce and wild. Then everybody present believed in -Christ and Sylvester baptized them all." - -The Christmas-tree, which all the week had stood untouched, to be -admired and re-admired, was once more lighted up when we went into the -drawing-room in the early twilight after four o'clock coffee. All the -children were assembled, from the oldest to the youngest, and gazing in -silent admiration; little Hugo, with hands clasped in ecstasy, being -the foremost of the group. As you probably know, the Christmas presents -had not been upon the tree itself, but upon tables around it. It was -the decorations of the tree, candy and fruit, and fantastic cakes, -very beautiful, which had remained, and which we were now to treat as -"plunder." - -When Frau Doctor had produced more pairs of scissors than I had -supposed could be found at one time in a single house be it ever so -orderly and had armed the family therewith, the cutting and snipping -began in good earnest. It was a pretty picture: the brilliantly-lighted -tree with its countless, sweet, rich decorations, and the eager -children intent on their "plundering;" the little ones jumping up -to reach the threads from which hung the prizes, and the elder boys -climbing upon chairs to get at those which were upon the topmost boughs. - -Frau Doctor received all the rifled treasures, as they were rapidly -brought to her, heaping them upon a great tray, while Monsieur P. -beamed delight through his green spectacles and wide mouth, and Herr -Doctor, in the background, amused himself with the droll exclamations, -in all sorts of bad German, with which the foreign boys gave utterance -to their delight. - -When the last ornament was cut off and laid upon the heaped-up tray, -and the last candle had burned out, we adjourned to supper. - -When that meal was over and the cloth brushed, the tray was brought -on, and with it two packs of cards. Now came some exciting moments. -All watched as Frau Doctor laid a sweetmeat toy upon each card of one -pack, and then dealt the remaining pack around among us. When all -were provided, she held up the card nearest her, for us all to see, -displaying at the same time, the prize which belonged to it. Then -came an eager search in everybody's hand, and great was the delight -when little Hugo produced a card exactly like the one which his mamma -held up, and received the great gingerbread heart, or "_lebkuchen_" -which happened to belong to that card; for in little Hugo's estimation -_lebkuchen_ was the choicest of dainties. Another card and another, -with their respective sweetmeats, were quickly turned, the children -becoming more eager as one after another received a prize. Again and -again the cards were dealt, for the tray of delicious and funny things -seemed inexhaustible. The game grew more and more merry as it went on. -What cheers greeted the discomfited Monsieur P. as a tiny sugar doll, -in bridal array, fell to his lot! what huzzas resounded when Herr -Doctor threatened to preserve his long cane of sugar-candy, as a rod to -chastise unruly boys withal! - -When the last card had been turned, and every place showed a mighty -heap of dainties, the tea-kettle was brought on, and Frau Doctor brewed -some hot lemonade as a substitute for the "punch" which is thought -quite essential at every German merrymaking. In this we drank each -other's healths merrily, the boys jumping up to run around the table -and clink glasses, and all shouting "_lebe hoch!_" at the top of their -lungs after each name. Then we drank greetings to all who, in whatever -land, should think of us this night. This toast was not so noisy as -the others had been, and the unusual quiet gave us time to reckon up -the many places in which our absent relatives were. From Russia to -Australia they were scattered, through nearly every country on the map. - -At last, with Frau Doctor's name on our lips, and many clinkings and -wavings of glasses, and shouts of "Frau Doctor, _lebe ho-o-o-ch_!" the -party broke up. The little ones went to bed, the older boys and the -"grown-ups" into the parlor to "watch for the New Year," a ceremony -which may by no means be omitted. What with games and music and eating -of nuts and apples the evening was a short and merry one; but when the -clock pointed to a quarter before midnight, silence fell upon us. - -Suddenly, the peals rang out from all the church towers; cannons were -fired and rockets sent up from the market place; we rushed to throw -the windows wide open to let the New Year in. Then we turned and -shook hands all around and wished "Happy New Year;" then again to the -windows. Out of doors all was astir; the bells still pealing, rockets -blazing, people in the streets shouting to one another. The opposite -houses were all lighted up, and through the open windows we could see -all their inmates shaking hands and kissing one another. - -But it was too cold to stand long at an open window. The New Year -was already nipping fingers and noses as his way of making friendly -overtures; merry Sylvester-Abend was gone and so we bade each other and -the Old Year good-night. - - - - -V. - -A COPTIC WEDDING. - - -I KNEW the little bride; a pretty child, not a day over fifteen, with -great, dark eyes and dimpled cheeks, white even teeth, and rich fair -complexion. She had often come in to spend an hour with me in my home -in Cairo, affording me much diversion by her childish, artless ways and -merry laughter. - -But now she was to be married--this baby girl. Her future husband had -never seen her face; for, according to the custom of the people, the -parents had made all the arrangements, and the contract usual in such -ceremonies had been drawn up by the fathers and mothers and signed in -the presence of a priest without a word or suggestion from the parties -most concerned in the transaction. The intended bridegroom was a young -clerk in the employ of an English friend, a handsome, intelligent boy, -but with little experience of life. We had heard the wedding was to be -a grand affair, and were glad to accept an invitation to this Egyptian -ceremony. - -On the night of the marriage, the bridal procession, or zeffeh as it is -called, looked as if wrapped in flames as it came slowly up the narrow -street in the midst of hundreds of colored torches. A band was playing -Arab tunes and women were ringing out the _zaghareet_--wedding laugh -of joy--which is a kind of trill made with the tongue and throat. The -entire way was lit with expensive fireworks of brilliant variety, and -all the street wraps worn were of gorgeous colors. - -Our little friend marched in this slow procession, her features -concealed, as usual; that is, she was wrapped in a cashmere shawl, not -covered by a canopy, as in Arab weddings, although in many respects the -Coptic ceremony is similar to that of the Moslems. - -She wore a white silk gown embroidered with gold, and over this a long -flowing robe of lace, while masses of diamonds fastened the white -face-veil to her turban. - -Just before her walked two little boys carrying censers the smoke of -which must have poured directly into her face as she walked slowly on -enveloped in her cashmere wrappings. - -On either side and a little in advance of the bride were the male -relatives and friends, while behind her, continually trilling the -_zaghareet_, followed the female friends; and along the whole -procession two boys ran back and forth, bearing silver flasks of -pomegranate form filled with perfume which they jetted in the faces of -the guests in a most delicious spray. - -The house of the bridegroom's father where the marriage was to take -place, is situated in a narrow street off the Mooski, and as we reached -the entrance we were met by black slaves who handed us each a lighted -taper. Then a sheep was killed on the door-stone--a custom, I believe, -observed only in Cairo, and some of the larger cities of Egypt. The -bride, glittering with her diamonds and gorgeous costume, was carried -over it and then the whole procession walking over the blood--the -body having been removed--all of us bearing our lights--went in to the -marriage, and the door was shut. Does it not remind you of the Parable -of the Ten Virgins of old? - -We were conducted to a room, very lofty and spacious. A low divan -reached around it and constituted its sole furniture, excepting the -table on which was spread the marriage supper. - -At this supper I witnessed a custom which reminded me of an old Roman -story. A slave brought in two sugar globes on separate dishes. When -these were placed upon the table, one of the guests was invited to -open them. Immediately upon one having been broken, out flew a lovely -white dove, its neck encircled with tiny bells which rang merrily as it -flew about. The other dove did not at first fly, when liberated from -its sugar cage; but one of the guests lifted it up until it fluttered -away like the other. If either of the doves should not fly, these -superstitious people would draw from it an evil omen. - -Many Arab dishes were set before us, among them boned fowl stuffed -with raisins, pistachio, nuts, bread and parsley; sweets and melons -following. But as an Arab eats with remarkable rapidity, one course was -hardly brought before another took its place. - -We were soon ready to accompany our host to the room where the marriage -ceremony was to be performed, into which we were ushered in the midst -of Arab music, sounding cymbals, smoking-incense, the _zaghareet_, and -the unintelligible mutterings of many priests. - -The bridegroom, clad in an immense white silk cloak embroidered with -silk and gold, sat waiting in one of two palatial-looking chairs. In -the midst of a perfect storm of music and confusion a door opened, and -the bride, her face still veiled, entered and took the chair beside the -bridegroom. - -There were four priests to officiate in this novel marriage, three of -whom were blind; these muttered Coptic prayers and filled the air with -incense, while the priest whose eyes were perfect tied the nuptial -knot by binding the waiting couple to each other with several yards of -tape, knocking their heads together, and at last placing his hands in -benediction on their foreheads and giving them a final blessing. - -This concluded the ceremony. - -We were glad to escape from the close room into the pure out-of-door -air. We drove away under the clear, star-lit heavens, through the -narrow streets with their tall houses and projecting balconies, out -into the Mooski, the Broadway of Cairo, now silent and deserted; on -into the wide, new streets, and so home; but it was nearly morning -before I fell asleep, for the tumultuous music and trillings and -mutterings of that strange ceremony rang in my ears and filled my -thoughts with as strange reveries as if I had eaten hasheesh. - - - - -VI. - -IN THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE. - - -THE first few years of my life were passed in Paris and, though my -parents were American, I grew up quite like a French child as did, -indeed, my brother and two little sisters. - -The greater part of our time was spent in Paris and as we lived near -the Bois de Boulogne we were taken there every day by our _bonne_ and -allowed to play to our hearts' content. Some of you have probably been -in this beautiful park and walked through its broad avenues and its -hundreds of shady little alleys. - -You may have followed as we did some of the merry little streams to -find out where they would lead you, or better than all you may have -joined in the play of some of the French children and discovered games -new and strange to you. All this became very familiar to us and I -often think of the good times we had there, when all the days were -like fte days, and of the pretty games we used to play there with the -charming French children. - -French children think "the more the merrier;" so when a game is -proposed the first thing they do is to look about and see if there are -not other children near by whom they can ask to join them. This is done -as much for the sake of showing politeness as to increase numbers, and -as it is the custom, the mammas or the nurses of the invited children -never refuse to let them take part in the fun. - -Hide-and-seek or "_cache-cache_," blind-man's-buff or "_Colin -Maillard_," tag, marbles, all these we also played; but there were -other games I have never seen in this country. - -One of which we never tired was "_Le Loup_--the Wolf." A boy was -usually chosen for the wolf, and while he withdrew a short distance the -others sauntered about among the trees, leisurely singing this little -song: - -[Illustration: Music] - - Promenons-nous dans les bois - pendant que le loup n'y est pas. - - Let us walk in the woods, - while the wolf is not about. - -Then they call "_Loup, viens-tu?_--Wolf, are you coming?" "_Non, je -me lve_--No, I'm getting up," replies the Wolf. Then they sing again -and call, "_Loup, viens-tu?_" "_Non, je m'habille_--No, I'm dressing." -This goes on for some time, the wolf prolonging the agony as much as -possible, and stopping to get his hat, his cane, or cigar, but finally -making a rush with, "_Je viens_--I'm coming!" he dives into the crowd, -scattering the children in every direction and making general havoc. -The one who happens to be captured is the "wolf" the next time. - -Another game more limited to little girls, was, "_Sur le Pont -d'Avignon_." We formed a ring and danced around singing: - -[Illustration: Music] - - Sur le pont d'Avignon - on y danse, on y danse, - Sur le pont d'Avignon, - on y danse, tout en rond. - Les dames font comme a, - et puis encore comme a. - -"On the bridge of Avignon the people dance in a ring, the ladies do -this way" (courtesying). - -The next time it is "_Les blanchiseuses font comme a_--the -washerwoman, etc.," suiting the action to words; then "_Les couturires -font comme a_--the dressmakers do this way." Every trade or -occupation was gone through with in like manner with the greatest -earnestness. - -Here is another of the same character: - -[Illustration: Music] - - 1. Savez-vous planter les choux - , la mode, la mode, - Savez-vous planter les choux - , la mode, de chez nous. - - 2. On les plantent avec les doigts - , la mode, la mode, - On les plantent avec les doigts - , la mode, de chez nous. - - 3. On les plantent avec le pied - , la mode, la mode, - On les plantent avec le pied - , la mode, de chez nous. - -But the prettiest of these singing games was "_La Marguerite_." To play -this a circle was formed around _La Marguerite_, who was supposed to be -a beautiful princess waiting to be rescued from her imprisonment. Two -knights seeking her walked round the ring singing: - -[Illustration: Music] - - 1. O est la Marguerite? - Oh qu, - Oh qu, - Oh qu, - O est la Marguerite, - Oh qu son chevalier. - - 2. Elle est dans son chteau, - Oh qu, - Oh qu, - Oh qu, - Elle est dans son chteau, - Oh qu son chevalier. - -And then, one by one, stones were loosened from the tower; that is, -the ring was made smaller and smaller until _La Marguerite_ was set at -liberty. - -The skipping-rope and the hoop are, or were then, much more used -there then here; and to skip the rope gracefully, or guide a hoop -dexterously, was an accomplishment. - -Whoever was agile enough to pass the rope under the feet twice while -giving one skip was looked upon with admiration. New developments -constantly took place with the skipping-rope or "_corde sauter_," -and all sorts of evolutions were gone through with, many of which were -pretty and graceful. - -Lively games were usually played in some wide open space near the Porte -Maillot, one of the entrances to the Bois, as there was always sure to -be a great number of both grown people and children thereabout. But -there were retired nooks where our little band sometimes gathered and -made merry. One favorite retreat was a pine grove; "_Les Sapins_" we -called it. - -Here the little girls liked best to play dolls, or make a _dinette_ -with their _goter_ of a tablet of chocolate and some bread which forms -the regulation lunch of most French children. Sometimes we amused -ourselves in gathering the resinous matter which oozed from the pines, -sticking to the bark, and from it we made little plasters and doll -medicines. - -"_La Mousse_" was the name of another haunt; this was a mossy bank -which on one side sloped gently down to one of the main avenues and on -the other descended abruptly into a ravine called _La Fosse_. It was -a great place for the boys and such a turning of somersets and racings -down the steep sides of the Fosse as there were! - -A favorite occupation was the making of gardens; and then there was -a hunt for the prettiest mosses, the tiniest, brightest pebbles and -the most tree-like twigs. Then a place was marked out on the side of -the smooth sandy path and usually near a bench where would be sitting -our _bonnes_ or whoever was taking care of us. Paths were traced and -bordered with the pebbles; smooth lawns made of the velvety moss, and -small branches stuck in for trees; while miniature flower-beds were -made and filled with the smallest flowers to be found. - -These gardens were often very pretty and much ingenuity could be -displayed in laying them out. We sometimes made them in some secluded -spot hoping to find them again the next day; but we never did, for -Paris is the neatest city in the world and the Bois de Boulogne -receives its share of cleaning and garnishing every day in the year. - -There is nothing "snubby" or ungracious about French children, and I -remember how many a time we helped poor peasant children pick up stray -bits of wood to make their fagots, or invited them to share our fun. - -One day we saw a crowd of these children carrying baskets filled with -acacia-blossoms which they said were to be made into fritters! - -We found that a large acacia-tree, laden with the snowy fragrant -clusters, had been cut down and the people were plucking as much of the -booty as they could carry away with them. We followed their example -and that evening we had the addition of some delicious fritters to our -dinner. The grape-like clusters had been dipped into a light batter, -fried and sprinkled with sugar; truly they made a dish fit for a king. - -Happy hours were those spent in the dear old Bois de Boulogne and if -any of you girls and boys who read this ever go there, may you have as -happy ones! - - - - -VII. - -AN ARAB DINNER-PARTY. - - -ONE hot day towards the close of April, when the air fairly danced -between the red sun and the reflected glare of the sand, our dahabeeah, -the _Lohengrin_, was drifting with the current down the Negadeh -reach of the Nile, in Upper Egypt. On each shore a rampart of bleak -desert hills reared their craggy fronts, pouring from their gorges -deep wind-silted shoots of sand which here and there swept over the -narrow river-margin of fertile field and date grove. Few were the -villages that we passed, and those that could be seen nestled under -their canopy of palms, as if seeking refuge from the fierce sun. Their -dusty streets appeared untenanted save for the ever-wheeling flights -of pigeons, and the inevitable dogs, and everything had shunned the -track of the chariot of the Egyptian sun-god, Ra. Everything but the -birds, which--glorying in the heat of the noontide--were abroad on -their bright eastern wings in endless numbers by "field and flood." -Indeed many of the mud-flats, left in mid-stream by the subsidence -of the waters, seemed alive with the noise and movement of feathered -habitants, chattering in a thousand different tones--pompous old -pelicans snapping their absurd bills in contemptuous disapproval of -some silly water-gull's proposition; tall storks and cranes spoiling -their dignity of blue-plumed head and neck by standing on one leg with -the superfluous one tucked carefully out of the way; surly vultures -fanning their wings in the hot sun, and stretching their ugly heads -in gorged laziness; ragged kites swooping amongst a motley crowd of -ravens; quarreling hawks and eagles, fastidious siksaks, terns, and -coots running backwards and forwards over the dry mud, and wondering at -the calm of ducks and geese who preferred standing stationary in the -shallows, whence they in their turn could quack scorn of the spasmodic -energy of the terns and their frantic brethren. - -But there is an ennui that comes of watching the slow shifting scenes -of the banks while the dahabeeah drifts onward with the Nile's -current--an ennui that the heat of an Egyptian April day rather -heightens than lessens, wherefore I determined to go ashore for a -ramble. Our destination for the evening was the small village, El -Wasta, some few miles further to the north; so telling my friends -that I would rejoin them there, and taking with me my boon companion -in all such enterprises, a pretty-faced Syrian boy named Gomah, whose -knowledge of a dozen French words and about half that number of -English made him a serviceable interpreter with the Arabs, I rowed -to the western shore. We chose for a landing-place one of those -desert offshoots, and consequently had much tiring exercise trudging -through the soft sand till the borders of the neighboring fields were -reached. Here and there we passed a solitary palm or dwarfed cluster of -sont-trees, and occasionally our steps would lead us by some dry-mud -hollow, startling the repose of some white ibis, or the meditations of -the ubiquitous gray-headed crow. - -We had wandered thus by a long circuit inland when, emerging again on -the river, we sighted a small village half-hidden amongst its tall -palms, and too insignificant on the map of the world to bear the -dignity of a name. Between us and its small cluster of huts was a -field of tall clover, by the borders of which were playing about some -young goats too intent on their gamboling to notice how closely they -were being watched by the keen eyes of an eagle perched on a mound -amongst the fodder. This bird I endeavored to stalk by performing the -somewhat tiring feat of crawling through the tall clover with my gun -under me, and, successfully getting within range, brought him toppling -down from his high pinnacle. The subsequent results, however, were very -unexpected. No sooner had I risen to my feet than all the village dogs -set on me, and commenced howling in most atrocious unison, with the -decided intention of resisting my unbidden presence in their domains. -Happily these were soon silenced by a native woman passing at the -moment, whose authority they were in nowise anxious to resent. One old -yellow cur, however, dissatisfied perhaps with the peaceful turn things -had taken, climbed one of the mud huts and from that stronghold of -safety gave vent to most persistent growls. - -Several of the men and boys now issued forth from the narrow lanes -of the village, and, after the formalities of salutation had been -interchanged, commenced examining my gun. They seemed greatly pleased -with its appearance, but flatly refused to believe in its powers until -convinced by actual experiment. - -While we were thus chatting the shaykh of the village had joined us -unperceived and now coming forward, with many salutations asked me -to visit his house. This I readily assented to as well from a desire -to talk with this gray-bearded old lion in his den, as from the -necessities of Eastern courtesy. - -So escorted by some of the Arabs carrying their long staves of -wood or "nebuts," we passed on down the tortuous alleys of this -animated dust-heap, by tumbling hut, and dusty square, by the village -pond--half-dried with the summer heat, and from the margin of which -two or three palms reared their feathered heads, until the party came -to a standstill before a mud-hut, somewhat larger, perhaps, than its -surrounding neighbors, but not a whit less simple or ruinous. - -Mud-built, with a low door and two small windows, it had little to -boast of grandeur, except a coat of whitewash which sadly needed -renewing. Like its fellows it was crowned with many white and gray jars -sunk into the muddy composition of the building, wherein a multitude of -pigeons found habitation; while every nook and corner round about these -earthen pigeon-homes was fitted with branches of sont or other wood to -serve as perches for them. Over the doorway was let into the mud of -the lintel the customary broken saucer to guard against and absorb the -harmful intentions of those possessed of the "evil-eye," and having -duly gazed thereon we were bidden to enter this unpretentious "home" of -the village shaykh. - -The bright glare of the sun streaming in through the empty doorway -lent a sort of twilight to the interior of the hut sufficient to -distinguish objects clearly by. It was a large room--that is large -as things-Egyptian go--roofed with split palm logs intertwined with -their leaves, and its floor, like the walls, bare mud save for the kind -carpeting of sand which some windy day had carried thither. On two -sides of the room a couple of earthen "divans" faced each other, and -in the far corner was a large kulleh in which the grain provisions of -the family were doubtless stored, but other furniture there was none. -In the wall opposite the entrance, the dark shadow of another doorway -showed in contrast against the brown surroundings, but whether it led -into the intricacies of the shaykh's domestic household, or out into -some village lane, was wrapped in the secrecy of its own gloom. - -In the centre of this square swallow's nest sort of habitation the -shaykh, myself, Gomah and some half-dozen elders of the village -had seated ourselves on the floor in a circle, and the inevitable -cigarettes and coffee were handed round. Over these we discussed, more -or less satisfactorily considering the extremely limited linguistic -powers possessed by myself, Gomah and the company, various topics -until the dinner hour of our aged host arrived. - -I had hoped to have escaped this ordeal, but the laws of courtesy -forbade any retreat. Moreover I had some ambition to witness the -ordinary dinner of an Arab household, and this taking "potluck" with -a shaykh was a chance too excellent to be missed. The arrangements -were admirably simple, and charmingly well fitted to the general -convenience. In the centre of our circle an Arab boy first placed a -three-legged-stool affair on which he proceeded to balance a large -circular tray, big enough to hold dinner for twice the number of guests -present. In the middle of this improvised table he next placed an -enormous bowl of boiled beans--a veritable vegetable Goliath, steaming -and of decidedly savory odor--which he then surrounded with sundry -small saucers containing butter, sour milk, cream, carraway seeds, and -an infinitude of a peculiar kind of brown bread, which is happily only -to be found in the land of Pharaohs and Ptolemies. By the side of each -person was placed a small kulleh of water, and now the feast was ready. - -Though I had attended at something of the same sort before in Egypt I -did not feel quite confident of the _modus operandi_ to be followed -here. Believing that possibly local customs might differ I concluded -the wiser course would be to await events and see how my neighbors -managed, so that I might adopt their method as my own. But alas! Arab -politeness was too rigid to allow me to carry out my desire, and from -the general delay it was evident that I was expected to lead off the -revels. - -Accordingly putting a bold face on my doubts I broke off a piece of the -bread, dipped it first into the cream (for the excellent reason that -that particular saucer was nearest) then into the milk and anything -that came handy and--purposely forgetting that awful mountain of -beans--tried to look happy while I overcame the difficulties of the -unsavory morsel. Apparently my attempts at guessing the method in vogue -were not wholly unsuccessful, or the manners of my fellow guests were -too good to allow me to think otherwise, and with this debt away all -started at eating. - -And how they did eat! To judge by the appetites being displayed around -me, there had not been any food distributed in the village for many a -long day. Into that fast diminishing mound of beans hands were plunging -each moment, bread was being broken and dipped into all the smaller -saucers seemingly indiscriminately, and water ever carried to the -well-nigh choked lips. - -In the midst of all this I saw, with much expectant horror, the shaykh -arrange on a small piece of bread a choice (to him) assortment of -beans, butter, cream, and all the strange ingredients of the meal. Too -well I knew what that mistaken courtesy boded for me, and as its maker -leant invitingly forward, I had perforce to allow the old dusky rascal -to pop the undesirable morsel with all its hideous unpalatableness into -my mouth. When I had duly recovered the effects of this moment, the -tragedy had, of course, to be re-enacted on my own part. Calling into -play therefore all my lost memories of how to feed a young blackbird, -I concocted the counterpart of his admixture, and "catching his eye," -I--well, reciprocated the compliment. - -This incident seemed to end the first part of the entertainment and -the despoiled fragments were now taken away to be replaced by a -central pile of bread, adorned with similar small saucers, as before, -containing milk in various stages of sourness, cream, carraway seeds, -and honey. Here again was I expected to give the sign for beginning, -and so taking a fragment of bread I dipped it bodily with all the -contempt that comes of familiarity into the milk first, which loosened -its already very flabby consistency and then into the honey in which -it promptly broke off and stuck. This unlucky essay of mine proved too -much for the mirthfulness of some of the party, but one burly neighbor, -with a gentleness most foreign to his fierce aspect, undertook to show -me how to overcome the difficulty. It was very simple and my fault was -merely the ordinary one of reversing the order of things. First dipping -the bread into the honey my kind instructor then dipped it into the -milk and conveyed the result to his spacious mouth. Thus enlightened -I did likewise and achieved success, and all set to work again at the -edibles before them. - -But this course was much less violent than the last, and soon disposed -of. When it was over the boy, who had heretofore filled the part of -food-bearer, came around to each guest in turn and poured over their -hands water from a pitcher which he carried, holding a bowl underneath -meanwhile, and presenting a cloth to each after such ablution. A not -unnecessary service, for the absence of knives and forks at dinner -may have the advantage of economy, and revert for authority to the -primitive days of Eden, but when carried out it is fraught with much -that is compromising to the fingers. Moreover Egyptian honey is no less -sticky than that of other lands. - -The dinner was now wound up with coffee and cigarettes--not the least -pleasing part to me--and a hubbub of chatting. But as the evening -shadows were already creeping amongst the palms outside, and El -Wasta--my harbor of refuge for the night--was yet some distance off, I -begged my kind host's permission to continue my way. His Arab courtesy, -however, was not to be hindered even here, and he insisted upon -accompanying me to the confines of his village fields, where with many -pretty excuses for his years and duties he at last consented to bid me -farewell. - -He left me to the care of "two of his young men," as he called them, -charging them to take me safely to El Wasta, the palms of which we -could see far down the river standing out against the evening sky. - -Of the many pleasant mental photographs which I have of travel, -that simple dinner with my kind shaykh of the unknown village holds -a prominent tablet to itself. I had asked him for his ancient and -time-worn tobacco-pouch when bidding farewell, that I might have the -excuse of giving him mine in exchange, which at least had the advantage -to an Eastern eye of plenty of color and bright metal. A fellow -traveller whose wanderings have since led him by my steps of that day, -tells me he found the old shaykh still owning that poor gift of mine, -and that he keeps strange talismans and Koranic-script in its recesses -as an infallible preventive against the dangers of ophthalmia, and to -guard against his pigeon homes blowing down. - - - - -VIII. - -A BIRTHDAY PARTY IN THE WEST INDIES. - - -WE were Americans and lived on one of the West India islands. Which one -I shall not say; you may guess from the hints I give you. - -It belonged to Denmark, and was inhabited by people of almost every -nation, for the city was a busy trading place and famous sea-port. - -This variety of nationalities is an advantage, or a disadvantage, just -as you choose to think. To us children it was the most delightful thing -in the world--why, we saw a Malay sailor once; but an English novelist, -who wrote many books, visited our island, and said in a contemptuous -way that it was "a Dano-Hispano-Yankee Doodle-niggery place." This was -in the book he published about the West Indies and the Spanish Main. We -children _never forgave that remark_. - -An American refers incidentally to our old home in a beautiful story, -called _A Man Without a Country_. How the tears rolled down our cheeks -as we read that Philip Nolan had been there in the harbor--perhaps just -inside Prince Rupert's Rocks! - -I wonder if you have read that story? To us it was almost sacred, so -strong was our love of country, and we believed every word to be true. -The first piece of poetry Tom wished to learn was "Breathes there a -man with soul so dead." But Tom was too small to learn anything but -Mother Goose at the time he had his Birthday Party. He was a chubby -little fellow, whose third anniversary was near at hand, and he was so -clamorous for a party--he scarcely knew what a party was, but he wanted -it all the more for that reason--that his parents laughingly gave way -to him. - -We did not keep house as people do in this country; in fact the house -itself differed greatly from such as you see. - -The climate was warm all the year round, and there were no chimneys -where no fires were needed. There were no glass windows, excepting on -the east side. At all other windows we had only jalousie blinds, with -heavy wooden shutters outside to be closed when a hurricane was feared. -The wonderful Trade Winds blew from the East, and sometimes brought -showers; for this reason, we had glass on that side. The floors were of -North Carolina pine, one of the few woods insects will not eat into and -destroy. It is a pretty cream yellow, that looked well between the rugs -scattered over it. Balconies and wide verandas were on all sides of the -house. - -As to servants, they were all colored and we had to have a great many, -for each would only take charge of one branch of service, and usually -must have a deputy or assistant to help. For instance, Sophie, the -cook, had a woman to clean fish, slice beans, and do such work for her, -as well as attend to the fires. There was no stove in the kitchen. A -kind of counter, three feet wide and about as high, built of brick, was -on two sides of the room; this had holes in the top here and there. The -cooking was done over these holes filled with charcoal; so instead of -one fire to cook dinner, Sophie had a soup fire, a fish fire, a potato -fire, and so forth. A small brick oven baked the few things she cooked -that way. - -Tom's nurse, or Nana, as all West India nurses were called, was a tall -negress, very dignified and imposing in her manners, and so good we -loved her dearly. She always wore a black alpaca gown, a white apron -covering the whole front of it, a white handkerchief crossed over -her bosom, and one tied over her hair. Her long gold ear-rings were -her only ornaments. These rings were very interesting, because Nana -often announced to us that she had lost a friend and was wearing "deep -mourning." This meant that she had covered her ear-rings with black -silk neatly sewed on. They were mournful-looking objects then, I assure -you. - -I cannot describe all the servants, odd as they were, nor give you any -idea of their way of talking--Creole, Danish, and broken English--but -I must mention our butler, or "houseman," Christian Utendahl, the most -important member of the household in his own opinion. - -As soon as the party was decided on, Christian and Nana were called in -to be consulted. Then it was discovered what a tiresome undertaking a -child's party might be. All children under the care of Nanas must have -those Nanas specially invited, and a particular kind of punch must be -made for them; then champagne must be provided for the little ones to -drink toasts. - -"Oh, this will never do. I cannot think of such a thing," said mamma. - -"I must advise you so to do, Madame," answered Christian. "Nana's punch -is lemonade wid leetle bit claret in it; and when you see de glasses -I'll permide fer de champagne you'll see fer you'sef dey can't hole a -timmle full. Fer de credit of de family, Madame, fer fear folks'll say -'Americains don't know how to behave,' I must adwise you." - -The last sentence was a powerful argument, and the solemn negro used it -with effect. - -Here Nana interposed, saying, "My lady, how you expec my leetle man to -know how to conduct hes-sef less we begin wid his manners jes now?" -Then she added that she could not appear without a new gown, apron and -head-handkerchief, and the apron _ought_ to have Mexicain drawn-work a -finger "deep at de bottom of it to be credi-tabble." - -Next, Nana said the birthday cake _must_ be made by Dandy and covered -with as many "sugar babies" as there were guests. - -These babies were pure sugar figures on straws and were stuck into the -cake through the icing. - -"The 'Kranse Kage' and the 'Krone Kage' can be made at home by Ellen -and Sophie, Miss Lind and Mrs. Harrigen," said Christian. - -"Is a 'Kranse Kage' absolutely necessary?" asked mamma. "It will keep -the women pounding almonds a whole day and it is very unwholesome." - -"Of course it is necessary," said both advisers together, and "it would -bring de chile bad luck to have it made out of de house," said Nana. - -"Then we will have it and dispense with the 'Krone Kage.'" - -"Not have a 'Krone Kage'! Oh, we must have dat out of compliment to de -King, Madame." - -Here mamma gave up in despair and let the rulers of the household have -their way without further resistance. - -Christian delivered the invitations to the party in his most formal -manner. The Hingleberg boys, Emile Haagensen, Alma Pretorius, Ingeborg -Hjerm, Nita Gomez, Achille Anduze, and several other boys and girls -accepted promptly. - -During the next few days there was so much excitement in the household, -so much disagreement between Christian and Nana, and Tom was so -vociferous, mamma said nothing would ever induce her to give a party -for children again. - -In Tom's good moments you would be sure to see him standing with his -hands behind him, while Nana trained him in what he should say and do. -"Sissy," he whispered to me, "Nana says if I ain't very, very dood -she'll gie me a _fatoi_ before evelly body." - -(We never knew what this mysterious punishment was, and now we think -it must be Creole for something that never happens. We were often -threatened with it and as often escaped it.) - -At last the day came, and Tom was to be allowed to haul up the flag -that morning. (We always kept the American flag floating over our -house.) When the Danish soldiers fired the sunrise cannon from the -fort, Tom pulled on the ropes with all his strength, his dear little -face as red as it could be, and when the flag reached the top of the -tall staff he gave a long sigh of satisfaction. - -We were not to see the parlors till just before the guests were to -come, about twelve o'clock. When we did go in we screamed with delight. -The rooms were filled with flowers. The pillars were hidden by long -ferns and the Mexican vine which has long wreaths of tiny pink flowers, -such as you may have seen in the dress caps of babies. Tall vases of -pink and white oleander filled the alcove, and everywhere were white -carnations, jasmine, frangipanni, and doodle-doo blossoms. All this had -been done by the servants as a surprise. - -In the middle of the room was the table. The gorgeous birthday cake, -bristling with knights, ladies, angels and all kinds of figures, was in -the centre, and the Kranse Kage and Krone Kage were at either end of -it; in the former a small silk American flag, in the latter a Danish -one, were placed; between them were all sorts of good things, just -such as you have at your parties. At each plate was the queerest wee -glass imaginable. - -Tom received many presents. One of them, a gun with a bayonet, gave -almost too much bliss. He sat and hugged it, evidently thinking it was -"the party." - -Christian, dressed in white, met every one at the street gate. To the -guests he said, "Mr. and Mrs. Alger presents deir complements and are -glad to see you;" and to the Nanas he said politely, "How you so far -dis mawning?" - -To get to our house, one had to mount three or four steps from the -street, then there was a high iron fence and gate. On each side of -this were the only trees I ever disliked. We called them the "Boiled -Huckleberry Pudding" trees. They had large poisonous-looking leaves, -and bore pale lumpish fruit about as large as a quart measure, with -small black seeds here and there through them. There were no other -trees like them on the island and we had a tradition that they came -from Otaheite and would kill any one instantly who tasted the fruit. -There were beautiful trees and flowers on this terrace and on all; -then came a wall covered with vines, and fifteen stone steps leading -to another terrace and another wall. In this second wall, near the -pepper-tree, was the home of our two monkeys Jack and Jill. On the -third terrace was the house. - -Tom received his friends nicely, Nana standing just behind him dressed -in her new gown and beautiful apron. We could see she was very anxious -lest he should disgrace her before the other Nanas. Often we heard her -whisper "Say howdy wid de odder hand, My Heart," or "Mind what I tole -you, Son." She escorted the Nanas to the court, where the bowl of punch -was standing, and they drank Tom's health with many good wishes. - -As soon as all the children had arrived they were seated at table, each -Nana standing behind her charge. Daintily and prettily the little ones -ate, and when Christian passed the cake around the "sugar babies" were -drawn out with much ceremony. Then the other large cakes were cut and -served and Christian put a drop of champagne in each little glass. As -soon as this was done, quick as thought Carl Hingleberg stood up and -said: - -"_Lienge leve Kongen!_" - -Would you believe it? Every little tot lifted his or her glass and -drank this solemnly. Christian filled the glasses again and we saw Beb -Anduze was being nudged and pushed by her Nana; at last she put her -finger in her mouth and hung her head but said very sweetly, "I wiss -Tom Alger have many nice birfdays and be a dood boy!" - -How we all laughed! And how surprised we were when Tom bowed and said, -"Tak," but he spoiled it all by pounding on the table and shouting -"Hurrah for Grant!" - -When all had done, Nana lifted Tom down from his chair and turned him -to the right. Each child he took by the hand and said, "_Velbekomme_;" -and the answer given to him was "_Fak for mad_." Then Tom scampered -off, and came back with his gun and singing with all his might "_Den -tapre land soldat_;" and where he did not know the Danish words, he -sang "Good Night, my brudder Ben!" which Nana proudly explained "he -composed hes-sef." All the children joined in the chorus and were -pleased at his singing something they all knew. - -Now came the great event of the day. We went down to the wharf, where -papa had boats ready to take us off to the American man-of-war in the -harbor. We were kindly taken all over it and Tom was allowed to fire -off a large cannon. This consoled him for the loss of his bayonet, -which fell overboard on our way to the ship, by mamma's special request. - -We had a delightful afternoon, and, when we returned home, Tom shook -hands with all and said, - - "Farvel Kom igjen." - - NOTE.--_Kranse Kage_, Wreath Cake; _Krone Kage_, Crown - Cake; _Tak_, Thanks; _Den tapre land soldat_, The brave - land soldier; _Velbekomme_, Welcome; _Fak for mad_, - Thanks for bread, or the food; _Lienge leve Kongen_, - Long live the King; _Farvel Kom igjen_, Farewell, come - again. - - - - -IX. - -A SIAMESE HAIR-CUTTING. - - -ALL the little Siamese children, both boys and girls, have the entire -head, except a place on the very top, closely shaved. There a long lock -of hair is allowed to grow, and this they wear twisted into a knot and -fastened with a jeweled pin. - -The cutting of this top-knot, as it is called, is an occasion of great -ceremony. All the friends and relatives are invited to attend, and the -festivities continue three days. On the third day the hair is cut by -a priest, and a lock is preserved in the family. The cutting of the -top-knot is equivalent to our coming of age, though the children are -generally between eleven and fourteen, and sometimes even younger than -that. - -The hair-cutting of the King's eldest daughter, Princess Civili, was -a most magnificent affair. We went to the palace at ten in the morning -for the purpose of seeing the procession. After passing through the -outer and inner courts which were thronged with people of almost -every Eastern nationality, we were shown into a building reserved for -Europeans. Soon we heard the band playing the National Anthem, and -then, preceded by the royal body-guard, His Majesty appeared and took -his seat near the private entrance to the Temple. Then the procession -commenced to file past us. It was headed by a number of men with -hatchets, and attired in odd-looking garments. Some of these men wore -horrible masks and wigs of long, tangled hair. They looked much like -apes, and represented wild men. Next followed two rows of "angels" as -they are called, these being men dressed in long loose robes of thin -white muslin bordered with gold-embroidered bands. On their heads were -tall conical hats of white and gold. These "angels" carried a cord -which was attached to the Princess' chair. Between these two rows -of angels walked a dozen men in loose red jackets, and short red -trousers, with flat caps to match. They held in their hands long reed -instruments on which they blew, making a shrill, strange sound. - -This was the signal of the approach of the Princess who soon appeared, -carried in a high chair, and surrounded by nobles and relatives. She -sat as immovable as an image, and looked neither to the right nor the -left. With a little more expression, she would have been a very pretty -child. - -Behind Her Royal Highness' chair were her favorite slaves carrying all -the beautiful presents that had been given her. - -_Apropos_ of presents, here is a short account of one of them. The -United States ship _Ashuelot_ was at that time anchored in the river -Chow Phya Miniam, on which river Bangkok is situated. There is a custom -in Siam of giving a present in return for one received, though the -present given in return is always one of less value. The paymaster of -the _Ashuelot_, hearing of this custom, presented Her Royal Highness -with a diamond ring, and received in return a handsome gold betel-box -of native workmanship. The captain of the _Ashuelot_ who was much -annoyed that a subordinate should receive so handsome a gift while he -himself received nothing, had the paymaster court-martialed on the -ground that an officer in the United States employ had no right to -receive a gift from a foreign nation. - -But to return to the procession. Following the slaves, came a number -of little Siamese girls dressed in white, and wearing a profusion of -jewelry. After them, came girls from the provinces all decked in their -gayest attire; then two rows of little Chinese girls with painted -cheeks and lips, and having artificial flowers in their hair. Closely -following came rows upon rows of native women (slaves of the Princess) -who walked sedately on with their bright fluttering scarves of red, -yellow and green, their hands folded as if in prayer. - -Then came a great many little native boys; after these, Chinese boys, -and, finally the procession was ended by a company of Hindoostani -children followed by a detachment of men servants. - -The next two days the procession was exactly the same, except that on -the third day the "angels" and the little Siamese girls wore pink -robes instead of white. - -The cutting of the hair, the praying of the priests, and the bathing of -the Princess in various waters, all took place in a large artificial -mountain built for the occasion opposite the Temple. None but the King, -the ex-Regent and a few other favored individuals were allowed to be -present. - -On the green, in front of the mountain, we saw a large company of -actors. On inquiry we found they were members of His Majesty's _loken_ -or theatre, and formed part of the religious ceremony. - -After the cutting of the top-knot all Siamese girls of high rank are -kept in the greatest seclusion. Some are sent into the palace and -placed under His Majesty's protection. There they remain until married -or until Death claims them. - - - - -X. - -OLD ENGLISH HARVEST CUSTOMS. - - Hoaky is brought - Home with hallowin' - Boys with plumb cake, - The cart followin'. - --_From Poore Robin_, 1676. - - -IN one of the fine old Homes of England, the tapestry lining the -Withdrawing Room represents a scene which must have been very familiar -to the ladies whose diligent fingers accomplished this large piece of -handiwork. It is a "Harvest Home" of more than a hundred years ago; and -as the light from the huge logs burning on the hearth flickers on the -figures it almost seems as if the gayly decorated horses are drawing -on the cart laden with sheaves, as if the girl enthroned on the top of -the corn is waving the small sheaf she holds overhead, and as if the -harvesters are really dancing around; that in another moment the lad -riding the leader must sound his pipe, and the old man following the -dancers make a merry tune come out of his fiddle-strings. The Harvest -is over, and the "last neck" is being carried home in triumph, held -on high by the Queen of the Harvest, until it can be deposited in the -centre of the supper-table in the big farmhouse kitchen. - -This tapestry hangs in a house in Cornwall, a county in which, from its -remote southerly position, many traditions have lingered. Among such -traditions those connected with the harvest are probably some of the -most ancient; handed down from generation to generation from the days -when the Romans first brought civilization to England and left their -stamp on the harvest as well as on the language, laws, numerals and the -roads of this county. - -Until the beginning of this century, Ceres was the name given as a -matter of course to the queen of the harvest; and in Bedfordshire two -figures made of straw were formerly carried in the harvest procession, -which the laborers called Jack and Jill, but which were supposed to -represent Apollo, the Sun God, and the beneficent Ceres, to whom the -Romans made their offerings before reaping began. - -The merry queen of the harvest, worked in the tapestry, had no doubt -been chosen after the usual Cornish fashion. The women reaped in -Cornwall, while the men bound, and whoever reaped the last lock of corn -was proclaimed queen. As all were ambitious of this honor, the women -used to hide away an unreaped lock under a sheaf, and when all the -field seemed cut they would run off to their hidden treasures, in hopes -of being the lucky last. When a girl's sweetheart came into the field -at the end of the day, he would try to take her sickle away to finish -her work. If this was allowed, it was a sign that she also consented to -the wedding taking place before the next harvest. - -The last lock of corn being cut, it was bound with straw at the -neck, just under the ears, and carried to the highest part of the -field, where one of the men swung it round over his head, crying in a -stentorian voice, "I have it, I have it, I have it!" And the next man -answered, "What hav-ee, what hav-ee, what hav-ee?" Then the first man -shouted again, "A neck, a neck, a neck, hurrah!" This was the signal -for the queen to mount the "hoaky cart," as it was called, and the -procession started for the farmhouse. - -Over the borders in Devonshire, the custom of "crying the neck" varied -a little. The men did the reaping and the women the binding. As the -evening closed in, the oldest man present collected a bunch of the -finest ears of corn and, plaiting them together, placed himself in the -middle of a circle of reapers and binders. Then he stooped and held it -near the ground, while all the men took off their hats and held them -also near the ground, and as they rose slowly they sung in a prolonged -harmonious tone, "A neck, a neck, a neck!" until their hats were high -over their heads. This was repeated three times; after which the words -changed to "We have-'en, we have-'en, we have-'en!" sung to the same -monotonous cadence. The crying of the neck, as it echoed from field to -field, and from hill to hill, on a fine evening, produced a beautiful -effect, and might be heard at a great distance. - -A musical cry of this sort was also common in Norfolk, Suffolk and -Gloucestershire; but the words sung were "Hallo, largess!" One of -the men was chosen lord of the evening and appointed to approach -any lookers-on with respect, and ask a largess, or money, which was -afterwards spent in drink. Meanwhile the other men stood round with -their hooks pointed to the sky, singing: - -[Illustration: Music] - - Hallo! - Largess! - -In Gloucestershire, Ceres rode the leader of the Hoaky Cart, dressed in -white, with a yellow ribbon round her waist. - - The last in-gathering of the crop, - Is loaded and they climb the top; - And then huzza with all their force, - While Ceres mounts the foremost horse. - "Gee-up," the rustic goddess cries, - And shouts more long and loud arise, - The swagging cart, with motion slow, - Reels careless on, and off they go. - -Stevenson in his _Twelve Moneths_, date 1661, goes on to describe the -arrival of the procession at the farmhouse: - - The frumenty pot welcomes home the harvest cart, and - the garland of flowers crowns the Captain of the - reapers. The battle of the field is now stoutly fought. - The pipe and tabor are now briskly set to work, and the - lad and lass will have no lead on their heels. O! 'tis - the merry time when honest neighbours make good cheer, - and God is glorified in His blessings on the earth. - -In Herefordshire "crying the neck" is called "crying the maze;" the -maze being a knot of ears of corn tied together, and the reapers stood -at some distance, and threw their sickles at it. The man who succeeded -in cutting the knot won a prize and was made Harvest King for that -year. In the same county there was a rough custom of the last load -being driven home by the farmer himself at a furious rate, while the -laborers chased the wagon with bowls of water which they tried to throw -over it. In the more stately processions the horses that drew the Hoaky -cart were draped with white, which Herrick, the Devonshire parson-poet, -describes in his poem of Hesperides, 1646: - - Come, sons of summer, by whose toil - We are the lords of wine and oil; - By whose tough labours and rough hands - We rip up first, then reap our lands. - Crowned with the ears of corn now come - And to the pipe ring Harvest Home. - Come forth, my lord, and see the cart - Dressed up with all the country art. - See here a maukin, there a sheet - As spotless pure as it is sweet; - The horses, mares, and frisking fillies - (Clad all in linen, white as lilies:) - The harvest swains and wenches bound - For joy to see the hock-cart crown'd. - About the cart hear how the rout - Of rural younglings raise the shout; - Pressing before, some coming after-- - Those with a shout, and these with laughter. - Well, on, brave boys, to your lord's hearth - Glittering with fire, where for your mirth - You shall see, first, the large and chief - Foundation of your feast, fat beef; - With upper stories, mutton, veal, - And bacon (which makes full the meal;) - With sev'ral dishes standing by, - And here a custard, there a pie, - And here all tempting frumenty. - -The harvest supper in Northumberland was called the "Kern Supper," -from a large figure dressed and crowned with flowers, holding a sickle -and sheaf, which was named the "Kern Baby," and, being carried by the -harvesters on a high pole with singing and shouting, was placed in the -centre of the supper table, like the Devonshire and Cornish Neck. Rich -cream was served on bread at the Kern Supper, instead of meal; a custom -which was reversed in a sister northern county, where the new meal was -thought more of than cream, and the feast was called the "Neck Supper," -in its honor. - -There was one more quaint ceremony for the laborers to accomplish, -after the feasting was over, connected with the completion of the -rick or stack. This was formed in the shape of a house with a sloping -roof, and as the man placed the last sheaf in the point of the gable -he shouted, "He's in, he's in, he's in!" The laborers below in the -stackyard, then sang out, "What's in?" and the rickmaker answered with -a long harmonious sound, "The cro' sheaf," meaning the cross sheaf. - -It has been thought that there used to be one universal harvest song -used throughout England, but the words and music are not preserved as -such. Some curious songs are performed by the laborers, where harvest -suppers are kept up. A very popular one has a chorus ending with: - - And neither Kings, Lords, nor Dukes - Can do without the husbandman. - -The majority are drinking songs, and there is reason to fear that the -ale and cider that flowed at harvest-time, conduced in no small degree -towards the unbounded revelry of these old celebrations. - -At the same time the country people of England in the seventeenth and -eighteenth centuries were for the most part very simple and ignorant, -and their childish exuberance of spirits may have been but the natural -expression of life in a perfectly unartificial state. They were men and -women who could live for the hour while the sun shone, who could laugh -and dance like children who have no fear, and, as George Eliot says, -who "cared not for inquiring into the senses of things, being satisfied -with the things themselves." - -But the change was coming. The old women of Cornwall lamented loudly -when their sickles were taken away, and the corn was "round-hewed" by -the men with a kind of rounded saw. - -"There was nothing about it in the Bible," they said; "it was all -_reaping_ there." - -The round-hewing was but a step, to be speedily followed by the scythe, -and then by the steam reaper. And it often happens that the steam -engines do not leave the field until the corn is carried to a temporary -rick in the corner and threshed on the spot. - -Farewell to the Hoaky Cart, the crowns of flowers, the Kern Baby, and -the Cro' Sheaf! - -With the puffing snort, the whirr and smoke of the engine, came the -downfall of the ancient ceremonies. If the corn is threshed in the -field and carried away in sacks, there is no time for the triumph of -Ceres, or the decking of "Necks." - -The laborers are no longer "satisfied with the things themselves." They -are keen for the shilling they will earn for overhour work, and in -some counties prefer it to the gathering of master and men round the -harvest board; and the drink makes them envious instead of merry. - -Times are hard. The great iron rakes clear the fields and there are -some farmers who no longer say with Boaz: - - Let her glean even among the sheaves, and reproach her - not, and let fall also some of the handfuls of purpose - for her, and leave them that she may glean them, and - rebuke her not. - -It seems as though the old happy gleaning days were also numbered. -Those days to which the villagers look forward from one year's end to -another! The hour at which gleaning may begin is made known in some -parishes by the church bell tolling at eight o'clock, after which the -children troop off with their mothers to the wide fields. The sun may -shine with fierce August fervor, the children's arms and the mothers' -backs be weary to breaking, and the corn gathered be only enough for -two half-peck loaves--yet there are charms in the long days in the -fields, in the strawberries picked in the hedge, and the potato pasties -eaten under the rick, and when the church bell tolls again at nine -o'clock there are still many lingerers in the fields. - -The world is growing grave and old, and it is sad to think that many -of the simple old-fashioned enjoyments of past years are fading away. -Still there is another side to the inevitable law of change; for out -of the relics of the worship of Ceres, out of the ashes of the ancient -customs of revelry, a ph[oe]nix has arisen, grand and hope-inspiring, -and that carries back our memories to days before the Romans were -conquerors of the world, and when the most ancient of all nations, the -Jews, used to celebrate their yearly feast of Ingathering. - -When first Harvest Festivals in Churches were proposed they were looked -on with suspicion, for somewhat similar services had been swept away -by the iron hand of the Reformation. But thankful hearts and good -common-sense have worn out the suspicion, and the day comes now in each -year, when every Church in England is decked with sheaves of corn, -grapes, torch lilies, dahlias, sunflowers, and all the splendors of -autumn, and when glorious Te Deums, and hearty Harvest Hymns rise in -thanksgiving for the blessings on the fields. - -Once more the ancient cry of "Largess" is, as it were, revived. But -now it is largess for the poor, beloved by God, it is largess for the -suffering ones, who watch in pain, it is largess for home and foreign -missions, that all may be safely gathered in to the great final Harvest. - -It is also customary for a Festival to be held in the Cathedrals of the -principal county towns. And there are few nobler sights than to see the -Nave of one of these magnificent old buildings, on a market day, so -full of men and women of every position in life, that they are sitting -on the bases of the pillars, and standing in the aisles; and there are -few nobler sounds than to hear that mighty congregation burst into -singing: - - Come, ye thankful people, come! - Raise the song of Harvest Home! - - - - -XI. - -EASTER AT JERUSALEM. - - -AT no time is there more to be seen and done in Jerusalem than during -the Easter season. - -Then it is that the old city is crowded with pilgrims from far and near -and wears, in consequence, an appearance of varied life and activity. -Some of the pilgrims are Moslems returning from their journey to Mecca; -others are Jews who have come to see that the massive stones of the old -temple are being duly wailed over by their brethren; but by far the -greater number are adherents of the Eastern Church. - -Their purpose in making the pilgrimage is to anoint themselves with the -fire which, according to their belief, is sent down from heaven each -year at Easter-time to light the candles on the altar in the tomb of -our Saviour in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Can they but ignite -their little bundles of wax tapers by the holy flame and with it bathe -their faces and breasts they believe that all their sin-stains are -purged away. The great crowds of devotees become so wrought up with -excitement over this divine manifestation that it is safer for those -who would witness the ceremony to go to the church under consular -protection. - -Accordingly we assembled, about eleven o'clock on the morning of one -Easter Sunday, at the American Consulate and from thence proceeded, -with a number of fellow-countrymen, to the Church under the guidance -of the _cawass_, or consular servant, whose heavy staff of office--a -veritable drum-major's bton--inspired respect on the part of the -natives and opened a way for us through the dense crowds. - -Arriving at the Church we were led to one of the galleries which run -around the building in three tiers. The main portion of the structure -is circular in form, and in the centre of the rotunda is a small chapel -which, according to the tradition of the Greek Church, guards within -its walls the Sepulchre of our Lord. The entrance to this little -building is so lowly that one has almost to crawl on hands and knees -to gain admittance; and when once inside there is only a shabby altar -worn down by the lips of countless thousands of pilgrims, and shabbier -candles which make the atmosphere most disagreeable. - -From our vantage-point in the gallery we looked down upon a curious -scene. Men, women and children armed with little bundles of tapers -covered every foot of the spacious floor, save an aisle which a double -line of some two hundred Turkish soldiers kept open around the Holy -Sepulchre as best they could. The officers of the guard had difficult -work in preserving order. Serious outbreaks were of frequent occurrence -among the excited people which could only be quelled by a vigorous -application of the officers' rawhides to the backs of the ringleaders, -and, in some instances, a gentle prod from a soldier's bayonet was -necessary to remind the individual that he was forgetting his good -behavior. - -The space between the inner line of soldiery and the Sepulchre seemed -to constitute a sort of prison-pen, for here were thrust the most -turbulent spirits. In a short time an assortment of these leading -rascals was thus gathered together and, as might have been expected, -they soon began to make things lively among themselves; the result -being a vivid representation of pandemonium. In fact, rough-and-tumble -fights were now the order of exercises, for all were endeavoring to -elbow their way to a position nearer the chapel that they might be the -first to secure the coveted fire. Such was the conduct of the adherents -to the Greek Faith in their holiest sanctuary and at their holiest -ceremony! - -After waiting for nearly three hours, surveying the hubbub below us -which had been, if possible, increasing, we noticed an unusual stir; -and soon from one of the ante-rooms issued a procession made up of -priests bearing large banners of various hues, and numerous surpliced -boys swinging silver censers of incense, while in the centre of this -company walked the Patriarch of the church clad in robes of heavy silk -and satin richly embroidered with gold and silver thread as befitted -the dignity of the High Father. - -Three times this band moved round the Sepulchre while the crowds were -awed to silence by the magnificent spectacle. After the procession -passed out the pent-up excitement of the people broke out with renewed -energy and those in the rear redoubled their efforts to gain a front -place, for this pageant of priests seemed to herald the advent of the -fire. - -Soon two of the priests approached apertures in opposite walls of the -Chapel and through these received from the Patriarch, who had meanwhile -entered the Sepulchre alone, the heaven-sent flame. As the priests drew -forth handfuls of tapers ignited by the holy fire, the agitation of -the multitude knew no bounds. The great surging crowd seemed frenzied -in their eagerness to light their own tapers. The women and children -in the throng were entirely ignored and, as the stronger pushed them -aside, more than one went down and were trampled under feet. But -gradually now the divine flame was passed from one to another, those -in the galleries letting down their tapers to be lighted until the -whole church was soon ablaze. - -Strife and wrangling speedily gave way now to smiling good-nature, -and all were anointing their faces and breasts with the holy fire. -The dark recesses of the old building, which the sunlight could never -penetrate through the dingy dome, were lighted up with the flickering -glow of the little candles which, with the constant darting to and fro -at the flames, like so many will-o'-the-wisps, made up a weird picture -never to be forgotten. Soon, however, the smoke and heat rendered the -atmosphere intolerable and we were glad to elbow our way out through -the now happy throng to the open air. - -Such is the ceremony gone through with each year at Jerusalem. Many -of the people try to carry the fire away with them that they may keep -a candle which has been lighted with it continually burning, as it is -reputed to possess wonderful restorative properties both for body and -soul. - - - - -XII. - -THE MOQUI SNAKE-DANCE. - - -I ONCE attended an interesting Indian fte in the Southwest at the -Moqui (Moki) village in Northern Arizona. It was the strangest -spectacle altogether I ever looked upon, and was performed by Indians -who are perhaps the least civilized of any in the great Western -Territory. No words can fully describe the dance that was given. It was -a wild, weird sight and made one with delicate nerves uncomfortable, to -say the least. To the Moquis, however, the spectacle was the reverse of -unpleasant. An Indian never indulges in noisy approval, but he enjoys -laughing as much as a white man does; and in this particular dance the -performers were constantly encouraged by their friends. - -The Moquis are a people whose origin dates far back. How long ago -their present village was built no one can tell. That it is very old -is evident from the fact that in 1540 it looked exactly the same to -Coronado as it does to us to-day. He could not discover from the -Indians living there how long their town had been founded, and as the -people have no written history we can only speculate upon the age of -their houses. There are seven villages altogether and all of them are -built upon the very tops of high _mesas_, or table-lands, rising fully -six hundred feet above the level of a wide valley. The _mesas_ are -rarely more than forty feet wide and are so steep that to gain the -summit one has to climb a narrow footpath that has been hewn in the -rocky sides. The houses are of stone, cemented with mud, and are piled -together one on top of the other. - -The tribe is given a Reservation by the Government to live on nearly -as large as the State of Massachusetts, and on which they have perfect -freedom. They raise sheep and goats, and live and dress nearly as they -did centuries ago, and have but little intercourse with white people. - -An hour before sunset the Indians, robed in their very best, moved -toward the town of Walpi that occupies the western end of the _mesa_. -Following the crowd my friend C---- and I reached an open square formed -by the walls of the houses on one side and the edge of the _mesa_ on -the other. In the centre of the place stood a tall, tower-like stone -fifteen or twenty feet high and of a fantastic shape. It was here that -the dance was to be held. Every housetop having a view of the spot -was covered with Indians, and children had grouped themselves on the -ladders that lead from roof to roof. Making our way to a good place we -sat down with a party of the natives and waited for the fte to begin. -Far below where we were, lay the valley we had crossed, and in the -distance were the mountains of Utah and Central Arizona. It did not -require much imagination to believe ourselves standing on some high -cliff overlooking the ocean, for the valley was like the sea, and the -feeding sheep like little boats. - -This Moqui snake-dance is given once in every two years. Nearly one -hundred Indians take part in it and the custom has been observed for -many centuries. It is commonly supposed that the ceremony is a prayer -for rain, but why snakes are used no one surely knows. The reptiles are -caught during the four days preceding the dance and are confined in the -_estufas_ or council chambers until the hour comes when they are to be -used. Most of the snakes are "rattlers." Their fangs are not removed -and the only precaution the Indians take against being bitten is to -paint their bodies with a preparation that counteracts the effects of -the poison. At the conclusion of the dance the snakes are carried down -to the valley and allowed to go where they will, while the dancers -return to the _estufas_ and wash off the paint that has covered their -bodies. - -Directly beneath where we stood was a bower made of cotton-wood -branches. Soon after we were seated an Indian brought three large bags -and placed them within the bower. These contained the snakes. The man -had barely got out of sight before a party of fifteen Indians filed -rapidly into the square. All were naked except for short, reddish -tunics reaching from the waist to the knees, and their bodies and faces -were thickly painted in various hues. Each man carried a rattle, made -by stretching a piece of dried skin over a squash gourd, and a basket -of sacred meal, and several wore strings of antelope hoofs around their -ankles. Marching four times around the stone pillar, and shaking their -rattles all the while, the dancers stamped upon the ground as they -passed the snake bower and sprinkled meal upon it. After that they -formed a long line and began the rather monotonous dance and song which -is given in the same manner by nearly every tribe. The song consists of -a few words repeated in a sing-song fashion over and over again, and -in the dance the bodies are swayed slowly back and forth and the feet -alternately lifted a few inches from the ground. - -While this dance was being given a second party, dressed as those who -had first appeared, and numbering fifty-seven men, marched into view -and began their walk around the stone. These were the snake-dancers, -and their coming was hailed with great joy by the assembled -spectators. Instead of rattles were carried little wands made of -eagle feathers which were moved rapidly through the air in imitation -of the hissing of serpents. The men looked wild and sober, as though -frightened at the prospect before them, and their faces were blackened -and painted beyond all recognition. During the march around the stone -pillar a party of maidens, each one wearing a bright red shawl and -having her face thickly powdered, grouped themselves near the dancers -and stood ready to sprinkle them with the meal which they carried in -baskets. - -Finishing the march both parties formed into two parallel lines near -the bower of cotton-wood boughs and indulged in a grand song and dance -which appeared to carry not only the performers but the dancers to -the highest pitch of excitement. At its conclusion an old man stepped -before the snakes and chanted a prayer, which he had barely finished -before there was an unruly rush made for the bower. Reaching their -hands into the place each man quickly reappeared with a hissing, -squirming, biting snake, which he immediately placed between his teeth -while beginning once more his walk around the open square. In time -fully forty men had each his snake, and the scene became intensely -hideous. At the side of each dancer walked an attendant who tickled -the snake's head with his wand of eagle feathers, but in spite of this -soothing caress the serpents made savage attempts to bite and get away. -One man had his cheek severely bitten and another his hand, while often -a snake would coil its body around the neck of its tormentor so that -it would have to be unwound by main force. We were glad to be as high -above the dancers as we were, for at times a snake would escape and go -darting off among the spectators, to their great confusion. The girls -who were throwing sacred meal upon the men were often so frightened -that they made frantic rushes to get away, but when the snake had been -caught, they returned again to their places. For fully half an hour -the strange dance was continued, the men holding the snakes growing -more excited every moment, and the members of the first party that had -appeared giving new life to their song, which was continued without -interruption all the while. - -At last, perspiring, bitten, excited until their eyes gleamed, the -men threw the snakes together into a common pile in the centre of the -square, where they formed a hideous mound of squirming forms. Then at -a signal, a second scramble took place, and in a moment the pile had -disappeared and every dancer held in his hands a reptile with which he -ran swiftly down the trail and out into the valley, madly leaping down -the narrow path, and later hurrying over the valley, dropping as they -ran, the snakes they carried. - -By this time the sun had set. Waiting only long enough to watch the men -come slowly back to their _estufas_, we left our housetop and were soon -riding slowly away. For another two years the snakes in the vicinity -of the Moqui village will go unmolested along their way. At the end of -that time some of them probably will figure again in the dance which -some strange decree has ordered. - - - - -_Classified List.--Pansy._ - -THE PANSY BOOKS. - - -There are substantial reasons for the great popularity of the "Pansy -Books," and foremost among these is their truth to nature and to life. -The genuineness of the types of character which they portray is indeed -remarkable. - -"Her stories move alternately to laughter and tears." ... "Brimful of -the sweetness of evangelical religion." ... "Girl life and character -portrayed with rare power." ... "Too much cannot be said of the insight -given into the true way of studying and using the word of God." ... -These are a few quotations from words of praise everywhere spoken. 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In this graphically written -and wonderfully entertaining volume, boy life in the Navy of the United -States is described by a naval officer, in a manner which cannot fail -to satisfy the boys. - - - =HOW SUCCESS IS WON.= By MRS. SARAH K. BOLTON. $1.00. - -This is the best of the recent books of this popular class of -biography; all its "successful men" are Americans, and with two or -three exceptions they are living and in the full tide of business and -power. In each case, the facts have been furnished to the author by the -subject of the biography, or by family friends; and Mrs. Bolton has -chosen from this authentic material those incidents which most fully -illustrate the successive steps and the ruling principles, by which -success has been gained. A portrait accompanies each biography. - - - =STORIES OF DANGER AND ADVENTURE.= By ROSE G. KINGSLEY, - B. P. SHILLABER, FREDERIC SCHWATKA and others. $1.25. - -Fascinating stones of thrilling incidents in all sorts of places and -with all kinds of people. Very fully illustrated. - - - =WONDER STORIES OF TRAVEL.= By ELIOT MCCORMICK, ERNEST - INGERSOLL, E. E. BROWN, DAVID KER and others. Fully - illustrated. $1.50. - -From the opening story, "A Boy's Race with General Grant at Ephesus," -to the last, "A Child in Florence," this book is full of stir and -interest. Indian, Italian, Chinese, German, English, Scotch, French, -Arabian and Egyptian scenes and people are described, and there is such -a feast of good things one hardly knows which to choose first. - - - * * * * * - -Transcriber's Notes: - -Obvious punctuation errors repaired. - -Table of Contents: "Pgae" changed to "Page". - -Page 13, "chere" changed to "chre" (chre Madame) - -Page 59, "lev" changed to "lve" (Non, je me lve) - -Page 59, "m' habille" changed to "m'habille" (Non, je m'habille) - -Page 60, "coutureres" changed to "couturires" (Les couturires font -comme) - -Page 62, "chteau" changed to "chteau" (est dans son chteau) - -Page 63, "gotir" changed to "goter" (their _goter_ of a) - -Page 129, "pntting" changed to "putting" (putting up preserves) - -Page 129, "apprporiate" changed to "appropriate" (choice and -appropriate) - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Strange Teas, Dinners, Weddings and -Fetes, by Various - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS *** - -***** This file should be named 44779-8.txt or 44779-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/7/7/44779/ - -Produced by Emmy, Dianna Adair and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) Music transcribed by Linda Cantoni. - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Strange Teas, Dinners, Weddings and Fetes - -Author: Various - -Release Date: January 28, 2014 [EBook #44779] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS *** - - - - -Produced by Emmy, Dianna Adair and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) Music transcribed by Linda Cantoni. - - - - - - - -[Transcriber's Note: Bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and -italic text is surrounded by _underscores_. The letter "o" with a -macron above is shown in this plain text version as [=o] and the -oe-ligature is shown as [oe].] - - -STRANGE TEAS DINNERS WEDDINGS AND FETES - - BY - - VARIOUS AUTHORS - - BOSTON - D LOTHROP COMPANY - - FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS - - - - - COPYRIGHT 1887 - BY - D LOTHROP COMPANY - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE. - I. MY TEA TO MEHEMET ALI AND FAREEDIE 9 - II. A JAPANESE DINNER 21 - III. A ROMAN CHRISTMAS 31 - IV. SYLVESTER-ABEND 42 - V. A COPTIC WEDDING 51 - VI. IN THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE 57 - VII. AN ARAB DINNER-PARTY 66 - VIII. A BIRTHDAY PARTY IN THE WEST INDIES 79 - IX. A SIAMESE HAIR-CUTTING 91 - X. OLD ENGLISH HARVEST CUSTOMS 96 - XI. EASTER AT JERUSALEM 109 - XII. THE MOQUI SNAKE-DANCE 115 - - - - -STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES. - - - - -STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS AND FETES. - - - - -I. - -MY TEA TO MEHEMET ALI AND FAREEDIE. - - -WHEN I lived in Syria, Midhat Pasha was appointed governor of the -Pashalic in which I resided, and came with great pomp and ceremony to -assume the duties of his position. His retinue consisted of a great -many guards, servants and soldiers, and, as they passed through the -street just below my balcony, I looked at them all with a great deal of -interest. - -The Pasha rode a fine bay horse and was dressed in European costume, -excepting that he wore a turban instead of a hat. He was short and -stout, well bronzed by the sun, and had that air of command which so -much distinguishes a soldier if he possesses it. He seemed to be about -fifty years of age, although I have heard he was much older. - -Just here I shall tell you that I never saw a tall and slender Turk, -though I have seen many handsome ones. They all seemed to show in their -features and frame their Tartar origin. - -Damascus is the capital of the Pashalic, and Midhat went there to live -in the palace of the Governors, which is near the famous Mosque of the -Sultan Selim. Damascus is about ninety miles from Beirut, and the road -that connects the two cities is an excellent one. It was built by the -French after the terrible massacres in the Lebanon Mountains in 1860. - -We soon heard the new Pasha was very much disliked in Damascus. He -tried to reform several abuses in the administration of affairs, and -gave great offence to all classes of the people; so he brought his -family with him and came to live in Beirut. - -The Turks are Orthodox Mohammedans, you know, and are polygamists. In -his youth Midhat married a lady, who was remarkable for her goodness, -and he esteemed her very much. But this lady had a great sorrow, for -no little children were hers. After awhile she asked Midhat to marry a -lady she knew, and he did so. - -These ladies were very fond of one another; the elder was the adviser -and counselor of her husband, interested in politics and business; the -other was very industrious, made beautiful fancy-work and embroidery, -and was always busy with her needle, so neither became a horrible -scold, nor a lazy, fat animal, as almost all Mohammedan women become -because they are so idle and have nothing to think about. - -I knew the two dear little children of the second wife. The boy, -Mehemet Ali, was seven years old, and the little girl, Fareedie, was -five. I became acquainted with them in this way. - -Midhat wished the children to be well educated, and he engaged an -English lady, named Mrs. Smith, to be their governess, with the -distinct understanding that she was never in any way to mention any -of the doctrines of our Christian religion to them. This was a hard -thing for her to promise, but she did so and assumed the charge of the -children. They slept in a room opening from hers and she watched over -them night and day with loving care. I knew Mrs. Smith very well, and -through her knew the children and their mother. - -The little ones could speak French very well (French is the favorite -language of all Orientals), but not any English. - -I seem to be a long time in reaching my story, but I had to tell you -all this, else how would you have known who Mehemet Ali and Fareedie -were, or how extraordinary it was for the children of a Turkish Pasha -to go anywhere to tea? - -I invited them to take luncheon with me, but Mrs. Smith said that would -interfere with their morning lessons, so the invitation was changed, -and I asked them to come to tea. - -It was a beautiful November afternoon (November in Syria is warm and is -the perfection of weather), and I sent a carriage for them at half-past -three o'clock. They soon came, no one with them but Mrs. Smith. - -Mehemet Ali wore a light gray suit made like an American boy's, only -his trousers were long and he had a red tarboosh on his head. He had -worn a hat, but this gave offence to the Turks and was one of the -charges made against his father by the people of Damascus, so it had -been discarded. - -Fareedie wore a dark blue velvet frock with a frill of lace around the -neck, and on her feet were little red Turkish slippers. She was very -beautiful, eager and quick--nay, passionate in all her feelings--and -from the time she entered my house until she left it in a quiver -of excitement. When she came in, she kissed me on the cheek and -gave me some white jasmine blossoms strung like beads upon a fine -wire, something little Syrian children are very fond of. Her first -astonishment was the long mirror in my wardrobe; she never had seen -one before, and when she caught sight of herself in it, she cried -breathlessly: "Oh! _tres jolie! tres jolie!_" and turned herself in -every direction to see the effect, then ran to me and gave me another -kiss and called me, "_chere Madame_." - -She darted hither and thither, looking at every thing and chattering; -but Mehemet Ali was very grave, although his little beady black eyes -were looking at everything also, and showed the interest he felt but -wished to conceal. - -Now Fareedie was on the balcony looking down on the fountain below -and some shrubs covered with wonderful large blue flowers (like -morning-glories, only ever so much larger)--"trees of flowers," she -called the shrubs; then she spied a little rocking-chair, something -that was a wonderful curiosity to her, and, when told that she might -sit in it, she rocked back and forth furiously, till I really feared -she would break her pretty little neck. - -I said to Mrs. Smith, "This will never do; I will take her on my lap -and show her pictures." - -"Yes," said she, "that will be a great treat, for she has never seen -any." - -"It is not possible!" I exclaimed. - -"Indeed it is. You forget the Mohammedans do not allow pictures -anywhere in their houses, and the little books I have to teach the -children from are French ones without illustrations." - -By this time I had gotten a book of Natural History, and, taking the -little girl on my knees, I said I would show her something. I opened -the book at random, and I shall never forget the look upon Fareedie's -face, nor the quiver that ran through her little body, when she saw the -picture and screamed out, "_Tigre! Tigre!_" - -At this Ali ran to us and the two turned over the pages hurriedly, -mentioning the names of each animal they knew, with a delight I cannot -describe to you. - -Then Ali said, "Perhaps, Madame, it may be you have a picture of an -engine of a ship--is it so?" - -(This sentence of Ali's I have translated for fear it would be hard for -you, if I gave it in French. You remember he did not know English.) - -"Now what shall I do!" I thought, "for I don't know anything about -engines, and I don't know where to find any pictures of them;" but -the black eyes helped in the search, and before I could think where -to look the boy seized upon a copy of the _Scientific American_, and -there, fortunately, were several pictures of engines and boilers. He -did not move for a long time afterward, except to say, "It is a regret -that I do not know the English to read." He sat as still as a statue, -perfectly absorbed, even pale, so intense were his feelings. - -Soon Prexea, my slender Syrian maid, came in and announced that tea was -served. Prexea was a Greek in religion and hated the Turks, so she was -not in a good humor, as I knew very well by the way she opened the door. - -Fareedie ran into the dining-room, but Ali evidently did not wish to -lay down his paper, till Mrs. Smith gently told him he must; then he -obeyed. - -"A table! Chairs! How droll! How droll!" cried Fareedie. - -And now a great difficulty presented itself. They had never sat at a -table, and I had no high chairs for them. They always sat on the floor, -on a rug, to eat, and had a low Arabic table put in front of each of -them. Their tables are about eighteen inches high, made of olive wood -inlaid with mother-of-pearl and silver, perhaps all silver. As to -dishes, the children seldom had even a bowl. - -Arabic bread is very peculiar. It is baked in thin flat cakes, about -the size of a dinner plate, and does not look in the least like bread, -more like leather. The children usually had one of these cakes for the -dish, and all that they were to have to eat would be put on it, then -another cake would be given to them which they would break in pieces, -using them as spoons, and last of all, eating spoons and dish, too. - -So you can imagine how surprised they were when they saw my table. But -what about chairs for them? A brilliant idea struck me. I ran to the -bookcase and got two dictionaries, which I put on the chairs they were -to occupy, and with Ali on Webster's and Fareedie on Worcester's, we -began our meal. - -Ali had been very serious during these proceedings and, as soon as we -were seated, he pointed to my sideboard and the silver on it, and said -impressively, "_Tres magnifique!_" - -The knives and forks were too much for them. They sawed away with the -one and speared the food with the other so ineffectively, that we told -them they might eat with their fingers, which they did very nicely. - -I had tea and coffee, sandwiches, cold chicken, blackberry jam, and -other sweets and cake. The sandwiches were of eggs, not ham, of course; -for it would have been an insult to their parents to have let them -taste pork, which is held in great abhorrence by all Mohammedans. Why, -many of them will not wear European shoes, for fear the bristles of -swine may have been used in sewing them. - -Both children asked for coffee "_a la Frank_," as they called it. They -had never seen it with cream in it, nor served in anything but a tiny -Oriental cup. I gave it to them in our own coffee cups, with plenty of -cream in, and they stirred it with their spoons and said it was "very -grand." - -Fareedie was a little sloppy, I must confess, but otherwise they -behaved very politely. - -But the questions they asked! Fareedie was an animated interrogation -point, I thought; and after tea Ali lost his impassiveness, and went -round the house examining everything with curiosity, especially -anything that could be moved, or had casters on it. - -At last the visit was over. My tall "cawass" came in and announced -the carriage was at the door to take them home. With many promises to -come again, they went away, kissing me lovingly, Ali with the coveted -_Scientific American_ under his arm, and Fareedie with a cup and saucer -her little heart had longed for. - -But they never did come, and I never saw them anywhere again. For, -Wasif Effendi, the Secretary of the Pasha, hated Mrs. Smith, and by -some underhand means contrived to have her dismissed. Then Midhat -was transferred to Smyrna, and my little friends left Beirut, -never to return, I fear. Perhaps you know the Pasha was ordered to -Constantinople and tried for the murder of the Sultan Abdul Aziz. It -was proved that he had been an accomplice, and he was exiled for life, -to a place called Jeddah. - -And there on the shores of the terrible Red Sea, near Mecca, and far -from all civilizing and good influences, my dear little friends are -forced to live. Their father is dead, but his family are still at -Jeddah. - -You would be surprised to know how often I think of them, and how sad -it makes me. Their future is full of peril. I wonder if they ever think -of me! - - - - -II. - -A JAPANESE DINNER. - - -THE dinner was given at the _Koyokan_, a club-house in the city of -Tokio, so called from the abundance of maple trees by which it is -surrounded; _k[=o]y[=o]_ meaning the red maple leaves of autumn, and -_kan_ meaning house. - -We took off our shoes at the door, and those who had not been -sufficiently provident to bring with them a pair of wool slippers, -entered in their stocking feet. - -We were at once greeted by our host and hostess. Japanese ladies do -not often act the hostess at a dinner-party, but usually remain in -the background. Our friend, however, having travelled considerably in -America and Europe, was advanced in his ideas, and gave his wife a -wife's place. - -Several beautiful Japanese girls were in waiting who at once conducted -us to a spacious dining-room on the second floor. - -Going out on the long piazza adjoining, we saw in the distance the bay -with its calm blue waters and white-winged boats; and to the right -Mount Fuji, her peerless head losing itself in ambient clouds; while at -our feet lay a bewildering maze of dwelling houses, shops, and temples. - -The floor of the porch was polished smooth as marble, and the patterns -in the lattice work were graceful combinations of maple leaves. - -As we re-entered the dining-room our first impression was that of a -vast empty apartment. The only visible signs of preparation for our -coming were the cushions upon which we were to sit, and the _hibachi_ -or fire bowls, over which we were to toast our fingers. We sat down -upon the mats, trying hard to fold our limbs under us _a la Japanese_, -but our attempts were for the most part very awkward. - -Then came some introductions. Our host had invited two friends to meet -us, Mr. and Mrs. Suyita. Mr. Suyita, being a Japanese of the old school -and very ceremonious, bowed low, so low that his honorable nose quite -kissed the floor; and remembering that when we are in Turkey we must -do as the Turkeys do, we endeavored to salute him in the same formal -manner. - -At length recovering our equilibrium we resumed our old position on -the mats, tried to look comfortable, and began to study the details -of our surroundings. The cushions upon which we sat were covered with -beautiful dark-blue crepe relieved here and there by branches of maple -leaves, the rich October coloring making a striking but exquisite -contrast with the more sombre background. The mats were marvellously -fine, and so clean that one might suppose our party the first that had -ever assembled there. - -At one end of the room just above the _toko-noma_, or raised platform -on which all the ornaments of the room are placed, was a _kakemono_, or -picture scroll, the work of a celebrated painter named Isanenobu, and -very old. On this platform stood a large vase of brown wicker work so -wondrously fine that at a little distance it appeared like an elegant -bronze. In this vase were branches of flowering plum and cherry -arranged as only Japanese know how to arrange flowers. The ceilings -were panels of cryptomeria, and without either paint or varnish, were -beautiful enough for a prince's palace. - -This immense room was divided by sliding doors into three apartments. -The doors were covered with paper. Here, too, was the prevailing -pattern, for over the rich brown background of the paper were -maple-leaf designs in gold and silver, and above the doors were -paintings of maple branches with foliage of scarlet, maroon, and every -shade of green. On the opposite side of the room was another raised -platform. Here also were two large vases, and in them branches of -flowering shrubs, some of which were covered with lichens. A bronze -ornament of rare workmanship stood between, for which many a seeker of -curiosities would give hundreds of dollars. - -Soon beautiful serving-maids entered and placed in front of us trays -on which were tea and sweetmeats. In Japan the dessert comes first. -The trays were ornamented with carvings of maple leaves, the tea-cups -were painted in the same design, and the cakes themselves were in -the shape of maple leaves, with tints as glowing, and shading almost -as delicate as though painted by the early frosts of autumn. We ate -some of the cakes and put some in our pockets to carry home. It is -etiquette in Japan to take away a little of the confectionery, and -paper is often provided by the hostess in which to wrap it. The native -guests put their packages in their sleeves, but our sleeves were not -sufficiently capacious to be utilized in this way. I have been told -that at a foreign dinner given to General Grant in Japan, some of the -most dignified officials, in obedience to this custom, put bread and -cake, and even butter and jelly, into their sleeves to take home. - -After our first course came a long interval during which we played -games and amused ourselves in various ways. At the end of this time -dinner was announced. Once more we took our places on the cushions -and silently waited, wondering what would happen next. Soon the -charming waiters again appeared and placed on the floor in front of -each visitor a beautiful gold lacquer tray, on which were a covered -bowl of fish soup, and a tiny cup of _sake_. _Sake_ is a light wine -distilled from rice, and is of about the strength of table sherry. A -paper bag containing a pair of chopsticks also rested upon the tray; -and taking the chopsticks out, we uncovered our soup and began to look -around to see how our Japanese friends were eating theirs. We shyly -watched them for a moment. It looked easy; we were sure we could do it, -and confidently attempted to take up some of the floating morsels of -fish; but no sooner did we touch them, than they coyly floated off to -the other side of the bowl. We tried again, and again we failed; and -once again, but with no better success. At last our perseverance was -partially rewarded, and with a _veni-vidi-vici_ air we conveyed a few -solid fragments to our mouths, drank a little of the soup, and then -covering our bowl, as we saw others do, we waited for something else to -happen. - -In the meantime large china vessels of hot water had been brought in -and our host kindly showed us their use. Emptying his _sake_ cup, -he rinsed it in the hot water, and then re-filling it with wine, -presented it to a friend who emptied his cup, rinsed and re-filled it -in the same way, and gave it in exchange for the one he received. - -The next course consisted of fish, cakes made of chestnuts, and yams; -the third, of raw fish with a very pungent sauce; the fourth, of -another kind of fish and ginger root. After this we were favored with -music on the _ningenkin_. This is a harp-like instrument giving forth -a low weird sound, utterly unlike anything I have ever heard called -music. The fifth course consisted of fish, ginger root, and "_nori_," a -kind of seaweed. - -After this we had more music, this time on the _koto_. The _koto_ is -also something like a harp in appearance. The performer always wears -curious ivory thimble-like arrangements on the tips of her fingers, and -to my uneducated ear, the so-called music is merely a noise which any -one could make. We were next favored with singing. This, too, was low -and plaintive, bearing about the same resemblance to the singing of a -European that the cornstalk fiddle of a country schoolboy bears to -the rich mellow tones of a choice violin. This same singing, however, -is regarded as a great accomplishment in Japan. The singer on this -occasion was a rare type of Japanese beauty, fair as a lily, with hands -and feet so delicate and shapely that she was almost an object of envy. -Her coiffure, like the coiffures of all Japanese women, was fearfully -and wonderfully made. Her dress was of the richest crepe, quite long -and very narrow, opening in front to display a gorgeous petticoat, -and with square flowing sleeves that reached almost to the floor. Her -_obi_, or girdle, was brocade stiff with elegance, and probably cost -more than all the rest of the costume. The mysteries of the voluminous -knot in which it was tied at the back I will not pretend to unravel. -Her face and neck were powdered to ghostly whiteness, and her lips -painted a bright coral; altogether she looked just like a picture, not -like a real woman at all. - -After this came another course consisting of fowl and fish stewed -together in some incomprehensible way. There was also an entree of -pickled fish. The eighth course consisted of fish and a vegetable -similar to asparagus; the ninth of rice and pickled _daikon_. Rice is -the staple dish, and, according to Japanese custom, is served last. -The _daikon_ is a vegetable somewhat resembling a radish. It grows to -an enormous size. Indeed it is a common saying among vegetable-growers -that one _daikon_ grown in the province of Owari, takes two men to -carry it, and that two Satsuma turnips make a load for a pony. This -sounds somewhat incredible, and yet it is stated for a fact that a -_daikon_ was not long ago presented to the emperor which measured -over six feet in girth. These monster turnips are generally sound to -the core; and to the Japanese they are an exceedingly delicate and -palatable aliment; with us the odor of them alone is sufficient to -condemn them. - -Last of all came tea which was served in the rice bowls without washing -them. The dinner lasted four hours; and when at the close we attempted -to rise from the mats, our limbs were so stiff from sitting so long in -this uncomfortable position that we could hardly move. - -We put on our shoes soon after, and were then conducted round the -grounds. In the same enclosure was a summer rest-house for the -Mikado. We looked inside for the _sh[=o]ji_, or sliding doors, were -all open, and we could see the whole length of the house. Here, as -in all Japanese houses, the mats were the only furniture. They were -beautifully fine, and the rooms though empty were attractive. - -After walking about for a little while we went through a long -calisthenic exercise of bows, and with warmest thanks to our kind host -and hostess, stowed ourselves away in _jinrikishas_, and rode off to -our homes. - -This of course is not a description of an ordinary dinner in Japan. -Indeed it was a very extraordinary one given in honor of a party of -Americans about to return to the United States. The common people dine -with very little formality. Bread, beef, milk and butter are unknown -to them. They live principally on rice, fish, and vegetables, served -in very simple fashion; and they eat so rapidly that dyspepsia is even -more common in Japan than in America. - - - - -III. - -A ROMAN CHRISTMAS. - - -CHRISTMAS is as great a day for young Romans as it is for young -Americans, and on it they, like other boys and girls, eat too much -candy and get more new toys than they know what to do with. But they -have one way of keeping it which other children do not have; and as I -was in Rome one Christmas, I will tell you what I saw them do. - -In the morning, about half-past ten, I went to a church on the Capitol -Hill, called Church of the Altar of Heaven. This hill is high and -there are one hundred and twenty-four steps leading to the door of -the church. It was a dull gray day, and the rain was pouring down so -hard that there were little pools and streams all over the old stone -steps. But many people were going up. There were men from the country -in blue coats and short trousers, and women with bodices and square -white head-dresses, who carried the largest umbrellas you have ever -seen, blue or green, or purple with bright borders around them. And -there were children, more than you could count, some with the country -people, others with their nurses, and many who were very ragged, all -by themselves. At the top of the steps men were selling pious pictures -and did not seem to mind the rain in the least. Over the doors were red -hangings in honor of Christmas. - -Inside were more people. At the far end service was going on and the -monks, to whom the church belongs, were chanting, and there was a great -crowd around the altar. But near the door by which I came in, and in -a side aisle was a still larger crowd, and it was here that all the -little ones had gathered together. They were waiting in front of a -chapel, the doors of which were closed tight. For they knew that behind -them was the Manger which every year the monks put up in their church. -Right by the chapel was a big statue of a Pope, larger than life, and -some eager boys had climbed up on it and were standing at its knee. -And some who had arrived very late were perched on another statue like -it on the other side, and even in the baptismal font and on tombstones -at the foot of the church. Women and men were holding up their babies, -all done up in queer tight bandages, that they too might see. And all -were excited and looking impatiently down the long aisle. Presently, as -I waited with the children, there came from the side door a procession. -First came men in gray robes, holding lighted tapers, then monks in -brown with ropes around their waists, and last three priests who -carried a statue of the Infant which is almost as old as the church -itself. When they reached the chapel the doors were thrown open, and -they took this statue in and placed it at the foot of those of the -Virgin and St. Joseph. - -I wish you could have been there to look in as I did. It was all so -bright and sunny and green. It seemed like a bit of summer come back. -In front was the Holy Family with great baskets of real oranges and -many bright green things at their feet. And above them, in the clouds, -were troops of angels playing on harps and mandolins, and in the -distance you could see the shepherds and their sheep, and then palm -trees, and a town with many houses. It was so pretty that a little -whisper of wonder went through all the crowd, while many of the boys -and girls near me shouted aloud for joy. - -So soon as the procession was over, every eye was turned from the -chapel to a small platform on the other side of the church. It had -been raised right by an old column which, long before this church -was built, must have stood in some temple of Pagan Rome. Out on the -platform stepped a little bit of a girl, as fresh and as young as the -column was old and gray. She was all in white, and she made a pretty -courtesy to the people, and then when she saw so many faces turned -towards her, she tried to run away. But her mother, who was standing -below, would not let her, but whispered a few words in her ear, and the -little thing came back and began to give us all a fine sermon about -the Christ-child. Such funny little gestures as she made! Just like a -puppet, and, every now and then, she looked away from us and down into -her mother's face, as if the sermon were all for her. But her voice was -very sweet, and by and by she went down on her knees and raised her -hands to Heaven and said a prayer as solemnly as if she really had been -a young preacher. But after that, with another courtesy, she jumped -down from her pulpit platform as fast as ever she could. - -And this is the way Roman children celebrate Christmas. On Christmas -Day, and for a week afterwards, for one hour every afternoon, they -preach their sermons, and all the people in the city and the country -around, the young and the old, the grave and the gay, come to hear them. - -I made a second visit to the church two or three days later. The rain -had stopped and the sky was bright and blue, and the sun was shining -right on the steps, for it was about three in the afternoon. And such -a sight you have never seen! From top to bottom people were going and -coming, many in the gayest of gay colors. And on each side were pedlers -selling toys. "Everything here for a cent!" they were calling. And -others were selling books, through which an old priest was looking, and -oranges with the fresh green leaves still on their stems, and beans, -which the Romans love better than almost anything else, and pious -pictures and candy. Ragged urchins, who had spent their pennies, had -cleared a space in one corner and were sending off toy trains of cars. -Climbing up in front of me, two by two, were about twenty little boys, -all studying to be priests and dressed in the long black gowns and -broad-brimmed hats which priests in Italy wear. To one side was a fine -lady in slippers with such high heels that she had to rest every few -minutes on her way up. On the other were three old monks with long gray -beards and sandals on their bare feet. And at the church door there -was such pushing in and out that it took me about five minutes to get -inside. - -[Illustration: WAITING TO SEE THE BAMBINO.] - -Here I found a greater crowd even than on Christmas. There were -ever so many peasants, the men's hair standing straight up on end, -something like Slovenly Peter's only much shorter, and the women, -clasping their bundles of babies in their arms. And close to them were -finely dressed little girls and boys with their nurses. If you once -saw a Roman nurse, you would never forget her, for she wears a very -gay-colored dress, all open at the neck, around which are strings of -coral. And on her head is a ruching of ribbon, tied at the back with a -bow and long ends, and through her hair is a long silver pin, and in -her ears, large ear-rings. And there were many priests and monks and -even soldiers, and the boys had climbed up again on the statues, and -one youngster had put a baby he was taking care of right in the Pope's -lap. - -The lights were burning in the Manger, but the people were standing -around the platform, for the preaching had begun. Before I left I heard -about ten little boys and girls make their speeches. One or two of the -girls were quite grown up, that is to say they were perhaps ten or -twelve years old. And they spoke very prettily and did not seem in the -least bit afraid. Some wore fine clothes and had on hats and coats, and -even carried muffs. But others had shabby dresses, and their heads -were covered with scraps of black veils. First came a young miss, whose -words tumbled out of her mouth, she was so ready with them, and who -made very fine gestures, just as if she had been acting in a theatre. -And next came a funny little round-faced child, who could hardly talk -because she was cutting her teeth and had none left in the front of -her mouth, and who clutched her dress with both hands, and never once -clasped them or raised them to Heaven, or pointed them to the Manger, -as I am sure she had been taught to do. But she was so frightened I was -glad for her sake when her turn was over. Two little sisters, with hats -as big as the halos around the saints' heads in the pictures, recited a -short dialogue, and all through it they held each other's hands tight -for comfort, even when they knelt side by side and said a prayer for -all of us who were listening. And after that a little bit of a tot said -her little piece, and she shrugged her shoulders until they reached her -pretty little ears, and she smiled so sweetly all the time, that when -she had finished every one was smiling with her, and some even laughed -outright. But while they were still laughing a boy, such a wee thing, -even smaller than the little smiler, dressed in a sailor suit and with -close-cropped yellow head, toddled out. He stood still a moment and -looked at us. Then he opened his mouth very wide, but not a word could -he get out. His poor little face grew so red, and he looked as if he -were about to cry. And the next moment he had rushed off and into his -mother's arms. But indeed the big boy who took his place was almost -as badly scared, and half the time he thrust his hands deep into his -pockets, and you could see it was hard work for him to jerk them out to -make a few gestures. - -They were all pretty little sermons and prayers, and I think they must -have done the people good. When I went out from the cool gray church -on to the steps again, the sun shone right into my eyes and half -blinded me, and perhaps it was that which made me sneeze twice. A small -bareheaded girl ran out from the crowd when she heard me, and cried -"_Salute!_" which is the Italian way of saying "God bless you." And I -thought it a very fitting Amen to the sermons. - - - - -IV. - -SYLVESTER-ABEND. - - -SYLVESTER-ABEND is one of the prettiest and brightest of German -festivals and is almost as much enjoyed as Christmas Eve, but I do not -know that any one has described it to American children. - -It so happened a few years ago that I was spending the holidays in one -of the pleasantest homes in one of the most beautiful towns of South -Germany, and there I learned how this festival was kept. - -The first of January being in that country St. Sylvester's Day, it is -New Year's Eve which is celebrated as Sylvester Eve, or Abend. - -"You will come into the drawing-room, after coffee, and see the -Christmas-tree plundered," the Doctor's wife had said to me, smiling, -at dinner; and all the children had clapped their hands and shouted, -"Oh yes! the Christmas-tree plundered, huzza!" - -There were more children around the Frau Doctor's table than you -could easily count. Indeed, there were more than the long table could -accommodate, and three or four had to be seated at the round "Cat's -table" in the bow window. There were the two fair-haired little -daughters of the house, their tall, twelve-year-old brother, two little -Russian boys, three Americans, and another German, who boasts of being -the godson of the Crown Prince; all these were studying under the -direction of Monsieur P---- the French tutor. Besides, there were half -a dozen older boys, who had come from all parts of the globe, England, -Cuba, Chili, and where not, to study with the Herr Doctor himself, who -is a learned German Professor. And since to-day was holiday--there -was little Hugo, pet and baby, standing upon his mother's knee, -clapping his hands and shouting with all his might "Me too! plunder -Christmas-tree!" - -"Why do you call it Sylvester Evening?" I asked the Frau Doctor. - -"Because it _is_ Sylvester evening; that is, to-day is dedicated to -St. Sylvester, in the Romish Calendar. He was bishop of Rome in the -time of the Emperor Constantine, I believe. But there is no connection -between the saint's day and the tree-plundering. Still we always do it -on Sylvester evening, and so, I think, do most people because it is a -convenient time, as every one is sitting up to watch for the birth of -the New Year. In some families, however, the tree is kept until Twelfth -Night, and in yet others it is plundered the third or fourth day after -Christmas." - -"Is there any story about St. Sylvester?" asked Nicholas, the bright -little Russian, always on the lookout for stories. - -"More than one; but I have only time to tell you one which I think the -prettiest. You are not to believe it, however. - -"When the Emperor Constantine who had been a heathen, was converted -to Christianity, some Jewish Rabbis came, to try to make him a Jew. -St. Sylvester was teaching the Emperor about Christ, and the Rabbis -tried to prove that what he said was false; but they could not. At -this, they were angry, and they brought a fierce wild bull, and told -Sylvester to whisper his god's name in its ear, and he should see that -it would fall down dead. Sylvester whispered, and the beast did fall -dead. Then the Rabbis were very triumphant. Even the emperor began to -believe that they must be right. But Sylvester told them that he had -uttered the name of Satan, not of Christ, in the bull's ear, for Christ -gave life, not destroyed it. Then he asked the Rabbis to restore the -creature to life, and when they could not, Sylvester whispered the name -of Christ, and the bull rose up, alive, and as mild and gentle as it -had before been fierce and wild. Then everybody present believed in -Christ and Sylvester baptized them all." - -The Christmas-tree, which all the week had stood untouched, to be -admired and re-admired, was once more lighted up when we went into the -drawing-room in the early twilight after four o'clock coffee. All the -children were assembled, from the oldest to the youngest, and gazing in -silent admiration; little Hugo, with hands clasped in ecstasy, being -the foremost of the group. As you probably know, the Christmas presents -had not been upon the tree itself, but upon tables around it. It was -the decorations of the tree, candy and fruit, and fantastic cakes, -very beautiful, which had remained, and which we were now to treat as -"plunder." - -When Frau Doctor had produced more pairs of scissors than I had -supposed could be found at one time in a single house be it ever so -orderly and had armed the family therewith, the cutting and snipping -began in good earnest. It was a pretty picture: the brilliantly-lighted -tree with its countless, sweet, rich decorations, and the eager -children intent on their "plundering;" the little ones jumping up -to reach the threads from which hung the prizes, and the elder boys -climbing upon chairs to get at those which were upon the topmost boughs. - -Frau Doctor received all the rifled treasures, as they were rapidly -brought to her, heaping them upon a great tray, while Monsieur P. -beamed delight through his green spectacles and wide mouth, and Herr -Doctor, in the background, amused himself with the droll exclamations, -in all sorts of bad German, with which the foreign boys gave utterance -to their delight. - -When the last ornament was cut off and laid upon the heaped-up tray, -and the last candle had burned out, we adjourned to supper. - -When that meal was over and the cloth brushed, the tray was brought -on, and with it two packs of cards. Now came some exciting moments. -All watched as Frau Doctor laid a sweetmeat toy upon each card of one -pack, and then dealt the remaining pack around among us. When all -were provided, she held up the card nearest her, for us all to see, -displaying at the same time, the prize which belonged to it. Then -came an eager search in everybody's hand, and great was the delight -when little Hugo produced a card exactly like the one which his mamma -held up, and received the great gingerbread heart, or "_lebkuchen_" -which happened to belong to that card; for in little Hugo's estimation -_lebkuchen_ was the choicest of dainties. Another card and another, -with their respective sweetmeats, were quickly turned, the children -becoming more eager as one after another received a prize. Again and -again the cards were dealt, for the tray of delicious and funny things -seemed inexhaustible. The game grew more and more merry as it went on. -What cheers greeted the discomfited Monsieur P. as a tiny sugar doll, -in bridal array, fell to his lot! what huzzas resounded when Herr -Doctor threatened to preserve his long cane of sugar-candy, as a rod to -chastise unruly boys withal! - -When the last card had been turned, and every place showed a mighty -heap of dainties, the tea-kettle was brought on, and Frau Doctor brewed -some hot lemonade as a substitute for the "punch" which is thought -quite essential at every German merrymaking. In this we drank each -other's healths merrily, the boys jumping up to run around the table -and clink glasses, and all shouting "_lebe hoch!_" at the top of their -lungs after each name. Then we drank greetings to all who, in whatever -land, should think of us this night. This toast was not so noisy as -the others had been, and the unusual quiet gave us time to reckon up -the many places in which our absent relatives were. From Russia to -Australia they were scattered, through nearly every country on the map. - -At last, with Frau Doctor's name on our lips, and many clinkings and -wavings of glasses, and shouts of "Frau Doctor, _lebe ho-o-o-ch_!" the -party broke up. The little ones went to bed, the older boys and the -"grown-ups" into the parlor to "watch for the New Year," a ceremony -which may by no means be omitted. What with games and music and eating -of nuts and apples the evening was a short and merry one; but when the -clock pointed to a quarter before midnight, silence fell upon us. - -Suddenly, the peals rang out from all the church towers; cannons were -fired and rockets sent up from the market place; we rushed to throw -the windows wide open to let the New Year in. Then we turned and -shook hands all around and wished "Happy New Year;" then again to the -windows. Out of doors all was astir; the bells still pealing, rockets -blazing, people in the streets shouting to one another. The opposite -houses were all lighted up, and through the open windows we could see -all their inmates shaking hands and kissing one another. - -But it was too cold to stand long at an open window. The New Year -was already nipping fingers and noses as his way of making friendly -overtures; merry Sylvester-Abend was gone and so we bade each other and -the Old Year good-night. - - - - -V. - -A COPTIC WEDDING. - - -I KNEW the little bride; a pretty child, not a day over fifteen, with -great, dark eyes and dimpled cheeks, white even teeth, and rich fair -complexion. She had often come in to spend an hour with me in my home -in Cairo, affording me much diversion by her childish, artless ways and -merry laughter. - -But now she was to be married--this baby girl. Her future husband had -never seen her face; for, according to the custom of the people, the -parents had made all the arrangements, and the contract usual in such -ceremonies had been drawn up by the fathers and mothers and signed in -the presence of a priest without a word or suggestion from the parties -most concerned in the transaction. The intended bridegroom was a young -clerk in the employ of an English friend, a handsome, intelligent boy, -but with little experience of life. We had heard the wedding was to be -a grand affair, and were glad to accept an invitation to this Egyptian -ceremony. - -On the night of the marriage, the bridal procession, or zeffeh as it is -called, looked as if wrapped in flames as it came slowly up the narrow -street in the midst of hundreds of colored torches. A band was playing -Arab tunes and women were ringing out the _zaghareet_--wedding laugh -of joy--which is a kind of trill made with the tongue and throat. The -entire way was lit with expensive fireworks of brilliant variety, and -all the street wraps worn were of gorgeous colors. - -Our little friend marched in this slow procession, her features -concealed, as usual; that is, she was wrapped in a cashmere shawl, not -covered by a canopy, as in Arab weddings, although in many respects the -Coptic ceremony is similar to that of the Moslems. - -She wore a white silk gown embroidered with gold, and over this a long -flowing robe of lace, while masses of diamonds fastened the white -face-veil to her turban. - -Just before her walked two little boys carrying censers the smoke of -which must have poured directly into her face as she walked slowly on -enveloped in her cashmere wrappings. - -On either side and a little in advance of the bride were the male -relatives and friends, while behind her, continually trilling the -_zaghareet_, followed the female friends; and along the whole -procession two boys ran back and forth, bearing silver flasks of -pomegranate form filled with perfume which they jetted in the faces of -the guests in a most delicious spray. - -The house of the bridegroom's father where the marriage was to take -place, is situated in a narrow street off the Mooski, and as we reached -the entrance we were met by black slaves who handed us each a lighted -taper. Then a sheep was killed on the door-stone--a custom, I believe, -observed only in Cairo, and some of the larger cities of Egypt. The -bride, glittering with her diamonds and gorgeous costume, was carried -over it and then the whole procession walking over the blood--the -body having been removed--all of us bearing our lights--went in to the -marriage, and the door was shut. Does it not remind you of the Parable -of the Ten Virgins of old? - -We were conducted to a room, very lofty and spacious. A low divan -reached around it and constituted its sole furniture, excepting the -table on which was spread the marriage supper. - -At this supper I witnessed a custom which reminded me of an old Roman -story. A slave brought in two sugar globes on separate dishes. When -these were placed upon the table, one of the guests was invited to -open them. Immediately upon one having been broken, out flew a lovely -white dove, its neck encircled with tiny bells which rang merrily as it -flew about. The other dove did not at first fly, when liberated from -its sugar cage; but one of the guests lifted it up until it fluttered -away like the other. If either of the doves should not fly, these -superstitious people would draw from it an evil omen. - -Many Arab dishes were set before us, among them boned fowl stuffed -with raisins, pistachio, nuts, bread and parsley; sweets and melons -following. But as an Arab eats with remarkable rapidity, one course was -hardly brought before another took its place. - -We were soon ready to accompany our host to the room where the marriage -ceremony was to be performed, into which we were ushered in the midst -of Arab music, sounding cymbals, smoking-incense, the _zaghareet_, and -the unintelligible mutterings of many priests. - -The bridegroom, clad in an immense white silk cloak embroidered with -silk and gold, sat waiting in one of two palatial-looking chairs. In -the midst of a perfect storm of music and confusion a door opened, and -the bride, her face still veiled, entered and took the chair beside the -bridegroom. - -There were four priests to officiate in this novel marriage, three of -whom were blind; these muttered Coptic prayers and filled the air with -incense, while the priest whose eyes were perfect tied the nuptial -knot by binding the waiting couple to each other with several yards of -tape, knocking their heads together, and at last placing his hands in -benediction on their foreheads and giving them a final blessing. - -This concluded the ceremony. - -We were glad to escape from the close room into the pure out-of-door -air. We drove away under the clear, star-lit heavens, through the -narrow streets with their tall houses and projecting balconies, out -into the Mooski, the Broadway of Cairo, now silent and deserted; on -into the wide, new streets, and so home; but it was nearly morning -before I fell asleep, for the tumultuous music and trillings and -mutterings of that strange ceremony rang in my ears and filled my -thoughts with as strange reveries as if I had eaten hasheesh. - - - - -VI. - -IN THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE. - - -THE first few years of my life were passed in Paris and, though my -parents were American, I grew up quite like a French child as did, -indeed, my brother and two little sisters. - -The greater part of our time was spent in Paris and as we lived near -the Bois de Boulogne we were taken there every day by our _bonne_ and -allowed to play to our hearts' content. Some of you have probably been -in this beautiful park and walked through its broad avenues and its -hundreds of shady little alleys. - -You may have followed as we did some of the merry little streams to -find out where they would lead you, or better than all you may have -joined in the play of some of the French children and discovered games -new and strange to you. All this became very familiar to us and I -often think of the good times we had there, when all the days were -like fete days, and of the pretty games we used to play there with the -charming French children. - -French children think "the more the merrier;" so when a game is -proposed the first thing they do is to look about and see if there are -not other children near by whom they can ask to join them. This is done -as much for the sake of showing politeness as to increase numbers, and -as it is the custom, the mammas or the nurses of the invited children -never refuse to let them take part in the fun. - -Hide-and-seek or "_cache-cache_," blind-man's-buff or "_Colin -Maillard_," tag, marbles, all these we also played; but there were -other games I have never seen in this country. - -One of which we never tired was "_Le Loup_--the Wolf." A boy was -usually chosen for the wolf, and while he withdrew a short distance the -others sauntered about among the trees, leisurely singing this little -song: - -[Illustration: Music] - - Promenons-nous dans les bois - pendant que le loup n'y est pas. - - Let us walk in the woods, - while the wolf is not about. - -Then they call "_Loup, viens-tu?_--Wolf, are you coming?" "_Non, je -me leve_--No, I'm getting up," replies the Wolf. Then they sing again -and call, "_Loup, viens-tu?_" "_Non, je m'habille_--No, I'm dressing." -This goes on for some time, the wolf prolonging the agony as much as -possible, and stopping to get his hat, his cane, or cigar, but finally -making a rush with, "_Je viens_--I'm coming!" he dives into the crowd, -scattering the children in every direction and making general havoc. -The one who happens to be captured is the "wolf" the next time. - -Another game more limited to little girls, was, "_Sur le Pont -d'Avignon_." We formed a ring and danced around singing: - -[Illustration: Music] - - Sur le pont d'Avignon - on y danse, on y danse, - Sur le pont d'Avignon, - on y danse, tout en rond. - Les dames font comme ca, - et puis encore comme ca. - -"On the bridge of Avignon the people dance in a ring, the ladies do -this way" (courtesying). - -The next time it is "_Les blanchiseuses font comme ca_--the -washerwoman, etc.," suiting the action to words; then "_Les couturieres -font comme ca_--the dressmakers do this way." Every trade or -occupation was gone through with in like manner with the greatest -earnestness. - -Here is another of the same character: - -[Illustration: Music] - - 1. Savez-vous planter les choux - a, la mode, a la mode, - Savez-vous planter les choux - a, la mode, de chez nous. - - 2. On les plantent avec les doigts - a, la mode, a la mode, - On les plantent avec les doigts - a, la mode, de chez nous. - - 3. On les plantent avec le pied - a, la mode, a la mode, - On les plantent avec le pied - a, la mode, de chez nous. - -But the prettiest of these singing games was "_La Marguerite_." To play -this a circle was formed around _La Marguerite_, who was supposed to be -a beautiful princess waiting to be rescued from her imprisonment. Two -knights seeking her walked round the ring singing: - -[Illustration: Music] - - 1. Ou est la Marguerite? - Oh que, - Oh que, - Oh que, - Ou est la Marguerite, - Oh que son chevalier. - - 2. Elle est dans son chateau, - Oh que, - Oh que, - Oh que, - Elle est dans son chateau, - Oh que son chevalier. - -And then, one by one, stones were loosened from the tower; that is, -the ring was made smaller and smaller until _La Marguerite_ was set at -liberty. - -The skipping-rope and the hoop are, or were then, much more used -there then here; and to skip the rope gracefully, or guide a hoop -dexterously, was an accomplishment. - -Whoever was agile enough to pass the rope under the feet twice while -giving one skip was looked upon with admiration. New developments -constantly took place with the skipping-rope or "_corde a sauter_," -and all sorts of evolutions were gone through with, many of which were -pretty and graceful. - -Lively games were usually played in some wide open space near the Porte -Maillot, one of the entrances to the Bois, as there was always sure to -be a great number of both grown people and children thereabout. But -there were retired nooks where our little band sometimes gathered and -made merry. One favorite retreat was a pine grove; "_Les Sapins_" we -called it. - -Here the little girls liked best to play dolls, or make a _dinette_ -with their _gouter_ of a tablet of chocolate and some bread which forms -the regulation lunch of most French children. Sometimes we amused -ourselves in gathering the resinous matter which oozed from the pines, -sticking to the bark, and from it we made little plasters and doll -medicines. - -"_La Mousse_" was the name of another haunt; this was a mossy bank -which on one side sloped gently down to one of the main avenues and on -the other descended abruptly into a ravine called _La Fosse_. It was -a great place for the boys and such a turning of somersets and racings -down the steep sides of the Fosse as there were! - -A favorite occupation was the making of gardens; and then there was -a hunt for the prettiest mosses, the tiniest, brightest pebbles and -the most tree-like twigs. Then a place was marked out on the side of -the smooth sandy path and usually near a bench where would be sitting -our _bonnes_ or whoever was taking care of us. Paths were traced and -bordered with the pebbles; smooth lawns made of the velvety moss, and -small branches stuck in for trees; while miniature flower-beds were -made and filled with the smallest flowers to be found. - -These gardens were often very pretty and much ingenuity could be -displayed in laying them out. We sometimes made them in some secluded -spot hoping to find them again the next day; but we never did, for -Paris is the neatest city in the world and the Bois de Boulogne -receives its share of cleaning and garnishing every day in the year. - -There is nothing "snubby" or ungracious about French children, and I -remember how many a time we helped poor peasant children pick up stray -bits of wood to make their fagots, or invited them to share our fun. - -One day we saw a crowd of these children carrying baskets filled with -acacia-blossoms which they said were to be made into fritters! - -We found that a large acacia-tree, laden with the snowy fragrant -clusters, had been cut down and the people were plucking as much of the -booty as they could carry away with them. We followed their example -and that evening we had the addition of some delicious fritters to our -dinner. The grape-like clusters had been dipped into a light batter, -fried and sprinkled with sugar; truly they made a dish fit for a king. - -Happy hours were those spent in the dear old Bois de Boulogne and if -any of you girls and boys who read this ever go there, may you have as -happy ones! - - - - -VII. - -AN ARAB DINNER-PARTY. - - -ONE hot day towards the close of April, when the air fairly danced -between the red sun and the reflected glare of the sand, our dahabeeah, -the _Lohengrin_, was drifting with the current down the Negadeh -reach of the Nile, in Upper Egypt. On each shore a rampart of bleak -desert hills reared their craggy fronts, pouring from their gorges -deep wind-silted shoots of sand which here and there swept over the -narrow river-margin of fertile field and date grove. Few were the -villages that we passed, and those that could be seen nestled under -their canopy of palms, as if seeking refuge from the fierce sun. Their -dusty streets appeared untenanted save for the ever-wheeling flights -of pigeons, and the inevitable dogs, and everything had shunned the -track of the chariot of the Egyptian sun-god, Ra. Everything but the -birds, which--glorying in the heat of the noontide--were abroad on -their bright eastern wings in endless numbers by "field and flood." -Indeed many of the mud-flats, left in mid-stream by the subsidence -of the waters, seemed alive with the noise and movement of feathered -habitants, chattering in a thousand different tones--pompous old -pelicans snapping their absurd bills in contemptuous disapproval of -some silly water-gull's proposition; tall storks and cranes spoiling -their dignity of blue-plumed head and neck by standing on one leg with -the superfluous one tucked carefully out of the way; surly vultures -fanning their wings in the hot sun, and stretching their ugly heads -in gorged laziness; ragged kites swooping amongst a motley crowd of -ravens; quarreling hawks and eagles, fastidious siksaks, terns, and -coots running backwards and forwards over the dry mud, and wondering at -the calm of ducks and geese who preferred standing stationary in the -shallows, whence they in their turn could quack scorn of the spasmodic -energy of the terns and their frantic brethren. - -But there is an ennui that comes of watching the slow shifting scenes -of the banks while the dahabeeah drifts onward with the Nile's -current--an ennui that the heat of an Egyptian April day rather -heightens than lessens, wherefore I determined to go ashore for a -ramble. Our destination for the evening was the small village, El -Wasta, some few miles further to the north; so telling my friends -that I would rejoin them there, and taking with me my boon companion -in all such enterprises, a pretty-faced Syrian boy named Gomah, whose -knowledge of a dozen French words and about half that number of -English made him a serviceable interpreter with the Arabs, I rowed -to the western shore. We chose for a landing-place one of those -desert offshoots, and consequently had much tiring exercise trudging -through the soft sand till the borders of the neighboring fields were -reached. Here and there we passed a solitary palm or dwarfed cluster of -sont-trees, and occasionally our steps would lead us by some dry-mud -hollow, startling the repose of some white ibis, or the meditations of -the ubiquitous gray-headed crow. - -We had wandered thus by a long circuit inland when, emerging again on -the river, we sighted a small village half-hidden amongst its tall -palms, and too insignificant on the map of the world to bear the -dignity of a name. Between us and its small cluster of huts was a -field of tall clover, by the borders of which were playing about some -young goats too intent on their gamboling to notice how closely they -were being watched by the keen eyes of an eagle perched on a mound -amongst the fodder. This bird I endeavored to stalk by performing the -somewhat tiring feat of crawling through the tall clover with my gun -under me, and, successfully getting within range, brought him toppling -down from his high pinnacle. The subsequent results, however, were very -unexpected. No sooner had I risen to my feet than all the village dogs -set on me, and commenced howling in most atrocious unison, with the -decided intention of resisting my unbidden presence in their domains. -Happily these were soon silenced by a native woman passing at the -moment, whose authority they were in nowise anxious to resent. One old -yellow cur, however, dissatisfied perhaps with the peaceful turn things -had taken, climbed one of the mud huts and from that stronghold of -safety gave vent to most persistent growls. - -Several of the men and boys now issued forth from the narrow lanes -of the village, and, after the formalities of salutation had been -interchanged, commenced examining my gun. They seemed greatly pleased -with its appearance, but flatly refused to believe in its powers until -convinced by actual experiment. - -While we were thus chatting the shaykh of the village had joined us -unperceived and now coming forward, with many salutations asked me -to visit his house. This I readily assented to as well from a desire -to talk with this gray-bearded old lion in his den, as from the -necessities of Eastern courtesy. - -So escorted by some of the Arabs carrying their long staves of -wood or "nebuts," we passed on down the tortuous alleys of this -animated dust-heap, by tumbling hut, and dusty square, by the village -pond--half-dried with the summer heat, and from the margin of which -two or three palms reared their feathered heads, until the party came -to a standstill before a mud-hut, somewhat larger, perhaps, than its -surrounding neighbors, but not a whit less simple or ruinous. - -Mud-built, with a low door and two small windows, it had little to -boast of grandeur, except a coat of whitewash which sadly needed -renewing. Like its fellows it was crowned with many white and gray jars -sunk into the muddy composition of the building, wherein a multitude of -pigeons found habitation; while every nook and corner round about these -earthen pigeon-homes was fitted with branches of sont or other wood to -serve as perches for them. Over the doorway was let into the mud of -the lintel the customary broken saucer to guard against and absorb the -harmful intentions of those possessed of the "evil-eye," and having -duly gazed thereon we were bidden to enter this unpretentious "home" of -the village shaykh. - -The bright glare of the sun streaming in through the empty doorway -lent a sort of twilight to the interior of the hut sufficient to -distinguish objects clearly by. It was a large room--that is large -as things-Egyptian go--roofed with split palm logs intertwined with -their leaves, and its floor, like the walls, bare mud save for the kind -carpeting of sand which some windy day had carried thither. On two -sides of the room a couple of earthen "divans" faced each other, and -in the far corner was a large kulleh in which the grain provisions of -the family were doubtless stored, but other furniture there was none. -In the wall opposite the entrance, the dark shadow of another doorway -showed in contrast against the brown surroundings, but whether it led -into the intricacies of the shaykh's domestic household, or out into -some village lane, was wrapped in the secrecy of its own gloom. - -In the centre of this square swallow's nest sort of habitation the -shaykh, myself, Gomah and some half-dozen elders of the village -had seated ourselves on the floor in a circle, and the inevitable -cigarettes and coffee were handed round. Over these we discussed, more -or less satisfactorily considering the extremely limited linguistic -powers possessed by myself, Gomah and the company, various topics -until the dinner hour of our aged host arrived. - -I had hoped to have escaped this ordeal, but the laws of courtesy -forbade any retreat. Moreover I had some ambition to witness the -ordinary dinner of an Arab household, and this taking "potluck" with -a shaykh was a chance too excellent to be missed. The arrangements -were admirably simple, and charmingly well fitted to the general -convenience. In the centre of our circle an Arab boy first placed a -three-legged-stool affair on which he proceeded to balance a large -circular tray, big enough to hold dinner for twice the number of guests -present. In the middle of this improvised table he next placed an -enormous bowl of boiled beans--a veritable vegetable Goliath, steaming -and of decidedly savory odor--which he then surrounded with sundry -small saucers containing butter, sour milk, cream, carraway seeds, and -an infinitude of a peculiar kind of brown bread, which is happily only -to be found in the land of Pharaohs and Ptolemies. By the side of each -person was placed a small kulleh of water, and now the feast was ready. - -Though I had attended at something of the same sort before in Egypt I -did not feel quite confident of the _modus operandi_ to be followed -here. Believing that possibly local customs might differ I concluded -the wiser course would be to await events and see how my neighbors -managed, so that I might adopt their method as my own. But alas! Arab -politeness was too rigid to allow me to carry out my desire, and from -the general delay it was evident that I was expected to lead off the -revels. - -Accordingly putting a bold face on my doubts I broke off a piece of the -bread, dipped it first into the cream (for the excellent reason that -that particular saucer was nearest) then into the milk and anything -that came handy and--purposely forgetting that awful mountain of -beans--tried to look happy while I overcame the difficulties of the -unsavory morsel. Apparently my attempts at guessing the method in vogue -were not wholly unsuccessful, or the manners of my fellow guests were -too good to allow me to think otherwise, and with this debut away all -started at eating. - -And how they did eat! To judge by the appetites being displayed around -me, there had not been any food distributed in the village for many a -long day. Into that fast diminishing mound of beans hands were plunging -each moment, bread was being broken and dipped into all the smaller -saucers seemingly indiscriminately, and water ever carried to the -well-nigh choked lips. - -In the midst of all this I saw, with much expectant horror, the shaykh -arrange on a small piece of bread a choice (to him) assortment of -beans, butter, cream, and all the strange ingredients of the meal. Too -well I knew what that mistaken courtesy boded for me, and as its maker -leant invitingly forward, I had perforce to allow the old dusky rascal -to pop the undesirable morsel with all its hideous unpalatableness into -my mouth. When I had duly recovered the effects of this moment, the -tragedy had, of course, to be re-enacted on my own part. Calling into -play therefore all my lost memories of how to feed a young blackbird, -I concocted the counterpart of his admixture, and "catching his eye," -I--well, reciprocated the compliment. - -This incident seemed to end the first part of the entertainment and -the despoiled fragments were now taken away to be replaced by a -central pile of bread, adorned with similar small saucers, as before, -containing milk in various stages of sourness, cream, carraway seeds, -and honey. Here again was I expected to give the sign for beginning, -and so taking a fragment of bread I dipped it bodily with all the -contempt that comes of familiarity into the milk first, which loosened -its already very flabby consistency and then into the honey in which -it promptly broke off and stuck. This unlucky essay of mine proved too -much for the mirthfulness of some of the party, but one burly neighbor, -with a gentleness most foreign to his fierce aspect, undertook to show -me how to overcome the difficulty. It was very simple and my fault was -merely the ordinary one of reversing the order of things. First dipping -the bread into the honey my kind instructor then dipped it into the -milk and conveyed the result to his spacious mouth. Thus enlightened -I did likewise and achieved success, and all set to work again at the -edibles before them. - -But this course was much less violent than the last, and soon disposed -of. When it was over the boy, who had heretofore filled the part of -food-bearer, came around to each guest in turn and poured over their -hands water from a pitcher which he carried, holding a bowl underneath -meanwhile, and presenting a cloth to each after such ablution. A not -unnecessary service, for the absence of knives and forks at dinner -may have the advantage of economy, and revert for authority to the -primitive days of Eden, but when carried out it is fraught with much -that is compromising to the fingers. Moreover Egyptian honey is no less -sticky than that of other lands. - -The dinner was now wound up with coffee and cigarettes--not the least -pleasing part to me--and a hubbub of chatting. But as the evening -shadows were already creeping amongst the palms outside, and El -Wasta--my harbor of refuge for the night--was yet some distance off, I -begged my kind host's permission to continue my way. His Arab courtesy, -however, was not to be hindered even here, and he insisted upon -accompanying me to the confines of his village fields, where with many -pretty excuses for his years and duties he at last consented to bid me -farewell. - -He left me to the care of "two of his young men," as he called them, -charging them to take me safely to El Wasta, the palms of which we -could see far down the river standing out against the evening sky. - -Of the many pleasant mental photographs which I have of travel, -that simple dinner with my kind shaykh of the unknown village holds -a prominent tablet to itself. I had asked him for his ancient and -time-worn tobacco-pouch when bidding farewell, that I might have the -excuse of giving him mine in exchange, which at least had the advantage -to an Eastern eye of plenty of color and bright metal. A fellow -traveller whose wanderings have since led him by my steps of that day, -tells me he found the old shaykh still owning that poor gift of mine, -and that he keeps strange talismans and Koranic-script in its recesses -as an infallible preventive against the dangers of ophthalmia, and to -guard against his pigeon homes blowing down. - - - - -VIII. - -A BIRTHDAY PARTY IN THE WEST INDIES. - - -WE were Americans and lived on one of the West India islands. Which one -I shall not say; you may guess from the hints I give you. - -It belonged to Denmark, and was inhabited by people of almost every -nation, for the city was a busy trading place and famous sea-port. - -This variety of nationalities is an advantage, or a disadvantage, just -as you choose to think. To us children it was the most delightful thing -in the world--why, we saw a Malay sailor once; but an English novelist, -who wrote many books, visited our island, and said in a contemptuous -way that it was "a Dano-Hispano-Yankee Doodle-niggery place." This was -in the book he published about the West Indies and the Spanish Main. We -children _never forgave that remark_. - -An American refers incidentally to our old home in a beautiful story, -called _A Man Without a Country_. How the tears rolled down our cheeks -as we read that Philip Nolan had been there in the harbor--perhaps just -inside Prince Rupert's Rocks! - -I wonder if you have read that story? To us it was almost sacred, so -strong was our love of country, and we believed every word to be true. -The first piece of poetry Tom wished to learn was "Breathes there a -man with soul so dead." But Tom was too small to learn anything but -Mother Goose at the time he had his Birthday Party. He was a chubby -little fellow, whose third anniversary was near at hand, and he was so -clamorous for a party--he scarcely knew what a party was, but he wanted -it all the more for that reason--that his parents laughingly gave way -to him. - -We did not keep house as people do in this country; in fact the house -itself differed greatly from such as you see. - -The climate was warm all the year round, and there were no chimneys -where no fires were needed. There were no glass windows, excepting on -the east side. At all other windows we had only jalousie blinds, with -heavy wooden shutters outside to be closed when a hurricane was feared. -The wonderful Trade Winds blew from the East, and sometimes brought -showers; for this reason, we had glass on that side. The floors were of -North Carolina pine, one of the few woods insects will not eat into and -destroy. It is a pretty cream yellow, that looked well between the rugs -scattered over it. Balconies and wide verandas were on all sides of the -house. - -As to servants, they were all colored and we had to have a great many, -for each would only take charge of one branch of service, and usually -must have a deputy or assistant to help. For instance, Sophie, the -cook, had a woman to clean fish, slice beans, and do such work for her, -as well as attend to the fires. There was no stove in the kitchen. A -kind of counter, three feet wide and about as high, built of brick, was -on two sides of the room; this had holes in the top here and there. The -cooking was done over these holes filled with charcoal; so instead of -one fire to cook dinner, Sophie had a soup fire, a fish fire, a potato -fire, and so forth. A small brick oven baked the few things she cooked -that way. - -Tom's nurse, or Nana, as all West India nurses were called, was a tall -negress, very dignified and imposing in her manners, and so good we -loved her dearly. She always wore a black alpaca gown, a white apron -covering the whole front of it, a white handkerchief crossed over -her bosom, and one tied over her hair. Her long gold ear-rings were -her only ornaments. These rings were very interesting, because Nana -often announced to us that she had lost a friend and was wearing "deep -mourning." This meant that she had covered her ear-rings with black -silk neatly sewed on. They were mournful-looking objects then, I assure -you. - -I cannot describe all the servants, odd as they were, nor give you any -idea of their way of talking--Creole, Danish, and broken English--but -I must mention our butler, or "houseman," Christian Utendahl, the most -important member of the household in his own opinion. - -As soon as the party was decided on, Christian and Nana were called in -to be consulted. Then it was discovered what a tiresome undertaking a -child's party might be. All children under the care of Nanas must have -those Nanas specially invited, and a particular kind of punch must be -made for them; then champagne must be provided for the little ones to -drink toasts. - -"Oh, this will never do. I cannot think of such a thing," said mamma. - -"I must advise you so to do, Madame," answered Christian. "Nana's punch -is lemonade wid leetle bit claret in it; and when you see de glasses -I'll permide fer de champagne you'll see fer you'sef dey can't hole a -timmle full. Fer de credit of de family, Madame, fer fear folks'll say -'Americains don't know how to behave,' I must adwise you." - -The last sentence was a powerful argument, and the solemn negro used it -with effect. - -Here Nana interposed, saying, "My lady, how you expec my leetle man to -know how to conduct hes-sef less we begin wid his manners jes now?" -Then she added that she could not appear without a new gown, apron and -head-handkerchief, and the apron _ought_ to have Mexicain drawn-work a -finger "deep at de bottom of it to be credi-tabble." - -Next, Nana said the birthday cake _must_ be made by Dandy and covered -with as many "sugar babies" as there were guests. - -These babies were pure sugar figures on straws and were stuck into the -cake through the icing. - -"The 'Kranse Kage' and the 'Krone Kage' can be made at home by Ellen -and Sophie, Miss Lind and Mrs. Harrigen," said Christian. - -"Is a 'Kranse Kage' absolutely necessary?" asked mamma. "It will keep -the women pounding almonds a whole day and it is very unwholesome." - -"Of course it is necessary," said both advisers together, and "it would -bring de chile bad luck to have it made out of de house," said Nana. - -"Then we will have it and dispense with the 'Krone Kage.'" - -"Not have a 'Krone Kage'! Oh, we must have dat out of compliment to de -King, Madame." - -Here mamma gave up in despair and let the rulers of the household have -their way without further resistance. - -Christian delivered the invitations to the party in his most formal -manner. The Hingleberg boys, Emile Haagensen, Alma Pretorius, Ingeborg -Hjerm, Nita Gomez, Achille Anduze, and several other boys and girls -accepted promptly. - -During the next few days there was so much excitement in the household, -so much disagreement between Christian and Nana, and Tom was so -vociferous, mamma said nothing would ever induce her to give a party -for children again. - -In Tom's good moments you would be sure to see him standing with his -hands behind him, while Nana trained him in what he should say and do. -"Sissy," he whispered to me, "Nana says if I ain't very, very dood -she'll gie me a _fatoi_ before evelly body." - -(We never knew what this mysterious punishment was, and now we think -it must be Creole for something that never happens. We were often -threatened with it and as often escaped it.) - -At last the day came, and Tom was to be allowed to haul up the flag -that morning. (We always kept the American flag floating over our -house.) When the Danish soldiers fired the sunrise cannon from the -fort, Tom pulled on the ropes with all his strength, his dear little -face as red as it could be, and when the flag reached the top of the -tall staff he gave a long sigh of satisfaction. - -We were not to see the parlors till just before the guests were to -come, about twelve o'clock. When we did go in we screamed with delight. -The rooms were filled with flowers. The pillars were hidden by long -ferns and the Mexican vine which has long wreaths of tiny pink flowers, -such as you may have seen in the dress caps of babies. Tall vases of -pink and white oleander filled the alcove, and everywhere were white -carnations, jasmine, frangipanni, and doodle-doo blossoms. All this had -been done by the servants as a surprise. - -In the middle of the room was the table. The gorgeous birthday cake, -bristling with knights, ladies, angels and all kinds of figures, was in -the centre, and the Kranse Kage and Krone Kage were at either end of -it; in the former a small silk American flag, in the latter a Danish -one, were placed; between them were all sorts of good things, just -such as you have at your parties. At each plate was the queerest wee -glass imaginable. - -Tom received many presents. One of them, a gun with a bayonet, gave -almost too much bliss. He sat and hugged it, evidently thinking it was -"the party." - -Christian, dressed in white, met every one at the street gate. To the -guests he said, "Mr. and Mrs. Alger presents deir complements and are -glad to see you;" and to the Nanas he said politely, "How you so far -dis mawning?" - -To get to our house, one had to mount three or four steps from the -street, then there was a high iron fence and gate. On each side of -this were the only trees I ever disliked. We called them the "Boiled -Huckleberry Pudding" trees. They had large poisonous-looking leaves, -and bore pale lumpish fruit about as large as a quart measure, with -small black seeds here and there through them. There were no other -trees like them on the island and we had a tradition that they came -from Otaheite and would kill any one instantly who tasted the fruit. -There were beautiful trees and flowers on this terrace and on all; -then came a wall covered with vines, and fifteen stone steps leading -to another terrace and another wall. In this second wall, near the -pepper-tree, was the home of our two monkeys Jack and Jill. On the -third terrace was the house. - -Tom received his friends nicely, Nana standing just behind him dressed -in her new gown and beautiful apron. We could see she was very anxious -lest he should disgrace her before the other Nanas. Often we heard her -whisper "Say howdy wid de odder hand, My Heart," or "Mind what I tole -you, Son." She escorted the Nanas to the court, where the bowl of punch -was standing, and they drank Tom's health with many good wishes. - -As soon as all the children had arrived they were seated at table, each -Nana standing behind her charge. Daintily and prettily the little ones -ate, and when Christian passed the cake around the "sugar babies" were -drawn out with much ceremony. Then the other large cakes were cut and -served and Christian put a drop of champagne in each little glass. As -soon as this was done, quick as thought Carl Hingleberg stood up and -said: - -"_Lienge leve Kongen!_" - -Would you believe it? Every little tot lifted his or her glass and -drank this solemnly. Christian filled the glasses again and we saw Bebe -Anduze was being nudged and pushed by her Nana; at last she put her -finger in her mouth and hung her head but said very sweetly, "I wiss -Tom Alger have many nice birfdays and be a dood boy!" - -How we all laughed! And how surprised we were when Tom bowed and said, -"Tak," but he spoiled it all by pounding on the table and shouting -"Hurrah for Grant!" - -When all had done, Nana lifted Tom down from his chair and turned him -to the right. Each child he took by the hand and said, "_Velbekomme_;" -and the answer given to him was "_Fak for mad_." Then Tom scampered -off, and came back with his gun and singing with all his might "_Den -tapre land soldat_;" and where he did not know the Danish words, he -sang "Good Night, my brudder Ben!" which Nana proudly explained "he -composed hes-sef." All the children joined in the chorus and were -pleased at his singing something they all knew. - -Now came the great event of the day. We went down to the wharf, where -papa had boats ready to take us off to the American man-of-war in the -harbor. We were kindly taken all over it and Tom was allowed to fire -off a large cannon. This consoled him for the loss of his bayonet, -which fell overboard on our way to the ship, by mamma's special request. - -We had a delightful afternoon, and, when we returned home, Tom shook -hands with all and said, - - "Farvel Kom igjen." - - NOTE.--_Kranse Kage_, Wreath Cake; _Krone Kage_, Crown - Cake; _Tak_, Thanks; _Den tapre land soldat_, The brave - land soldier; _Velbekomme_, Welcome; _Fak for mad_, - Thanks for bread, or the food; _Lienge leve Kongen_, - Long live the King; _Farvel Kom igjen_, Farewell, come - again. - - - - -IX. - -A SIAMESE HAIR-CUTTING. - - -ALL the little Siamese children, both boys and girls, have the entire -head, except a place on the very top, closely shaved. There a long lock -of hair is allowed to grow, and this they wear twisted into a knot and -fastened with a jeweled pin. - -The cutting of this top-knot, as it is called, is an occasion of great -ceremony. All the friends and relatives are invited to attend, and the -festivities continue three days. On the third day the hair is cut by -a priest, and a lock is preserved in the family. The cutting of the -top-knot is equivalent to our coming of age, though the children are -generally between eleven and fourteen, and sometimes even younger than -that. - -The hair-cutting of the King's eldest daughter, Princess Civili, was -a most magnificent affair. We went to the palace at ten in the morning -for the purpose of seeing the procession. After passing through the -outer and inner courts which were thronged with people of almost -every Eastern nationality, we were shown into a building reserved for -Europeans. Soon we heard the band playing the National Anthem, and -then, preceded by the royal body-guard, His Majesty appeared and took -his seat near the private entrance to the Temple. Then the procession -commenced to file past us. It was headed by a number of men with -hatchets, and attired in odd-looking garments. Some of these men wore -horrible masks and wigs of long, tangled hair. They looked much like -apes, and represented wild men. Next followed two rows of "angels" as -they are called, these being men dressed in long loose robes of thin -white muslin bordered with gold-embroidered bands. On their heads were -tall conical hats of white and gold. These "angels" carried a cord -which was attached to the Princess' chair. Between these two rows -of angels walked a dozen men in loose red jackets, and short red -trousers, with flat caps to match. They held in their hands long reed -instruments on which they blew, making a shrill, strange sound. - -This was the signal of the approach of the Princess who soon appeared, -carried in a high chair, and surrounded by nobles and relatives. She -sat as immovable as an image, and looked neither to the right nor the -left. With a little more expression, she would have been a very pretty -child. - -Behind Her Royal Highness' chair were her favorite slaves carrying all -the beautiful presents that had been given her. - -_Apropos_ of presents, here is a short account of one of them. The -United States ship _Ashuelot_ was at that time anchored in the river -Chow Phya Miniam, on which river Bangkok is situated. There is a custom -in Siam of giving a present in return for one received, though the -present given in return is always one of less value. The paymaster of -the _Ashuelot_, hearing of this custom, presented Her Royal Highness -with a diamond ring, and received in return a handsome gold betel-box -of native workmanship. The captain of the _Ashuelot_ who was much -annoyed that a subordinate should receive so handsome a gift while he -himself received nothing, had the paymaster court-martialed on the -ground that an officer in the United States employ had no right to -receive a gift from a foreign nation. - -But to return to the procession. Following the slaves, came a number -of little Siamese girls dressed in white, and wearing a profusion of -jewelry. After them, came girls from the provinces all decked in their -gayest attire; then two rows of little Chinese girls with painted -cheeks and lips, and having artificial flowers in their hair. Closely -following came rows upon rows of native women (slaves of the Princess) -who walked sedately on with their bright fluttering scarves of red, -yellow and green, their hands folded as if in prayer. - -Then came a great many little native boys; after these, Chinese boys, -and, finally the procession was ended by a company of Hindoostani -children followed by a detachment of men servants. - -The next two days the procession was exactly the same, except that on -the third day the "angels" and the little Siamese girls wore pink -robes instead of white. - -The cutting of the hair, the praying of the priests, and the bathing of -the Princess in various waters, all took place in a large artificial -mountain built for the occasion opposite the Temple. None but the King, -the ex-Regent and a few other favored individuals were allowed to be -present. - -On the green, in front of the mountain, we saw a large company of -actors. On inquiry we found they were members of His Majesty's _loken_ -or theatre, and formed part of the religious ceremony. - -After the cutting of the top-knot all Siamese girls of high rank are -kept in the greatest seclusion. Some are sent into the palace and -placed under His Majesty's protection. There they remain until married -or until Death claims them. - - - - -X. - -OLD ENGLISH HARVEST CUSTOMS. - - Hoaky is brought - Home with hallowin' - Boys with plumb cake, - The cart followin'. - --_From Poore Robin_, 1676. - - -IN one of the fine old Homes of England, the tapestry lining the -Withdrawing Room represents a scene which must have been very familiar -to the ladies whose diligent fingers accomplished this large piece of -handiwork. It is a "Harvest Home" of more than a hundred years ago; and -as the light from the huge logs burning on the hearth flickers on the -figures it almost seems as if the gayly decorated horses are drawing -on the cart laden with sheaves, as if the girl enthroned on the top of -the corn is waving the small sheaf she holds overhead, and as if the -harvesters are really dancing around; that in another moment the lad -riding the leader must sound his pipe, and the old man following the -dancers make a merry tune come out of his fiddle-strings. The Harvest -is over, and the "last neck" is being carried home in triumph, held -on high by the Queen of the Harvest, until it can be deposited in the -centre of the supper-table in the big farmhouse kitchen. - -This tapestry hangs in a house in Cornwall, a county in which, from its -remote southerly position, many traditions have lingered. Among such -traditions those connected with the harvest are probably some of the -most ancient; handed down from generation to generation from the days -when the Romans first brought civilization to England and left their -stamp on the harvest as well as on the language, laws, numerals and the -roads of this county. - -Until the beginning of this century, Ceres was the name given as a -matter of course to the queen of the harvest; and in Bedfordshire two -figures made of straw were formerly carried in the harvest procession, -which the laborers called Jack and Jill, but which were supposed to -represent Apollo, the Sun God, and the beneficent Ceres, to whom the -Romans made their offerings before reaping began. - -The merry queen of the harvest, worked in the tapestry, had no doubt -been chosen after the usual Cornish fashion. The women reaped in -Cornwall, while the men bound, and whoever reaped the last lock of corn -was proclaimed queen. As all were ambitious of this honor, the women -used to hide away an unreaped lock under a sheaf, and when all the -field seemed cut they would run off to their hidden treasures, in hopes -of being the lucky last. When a girl's sweetheart came into the field -at the end of the day, he would try to take her sickle away to finish -her work. If this was allowed, it was a sign that she also consented to -the wedding taking place before the next harvest. - -The last lock of corn being cut, it was bound with straw at the -neck, just under the ears, and carried to the highest part of the -field, where one of the men swung it round over his head, crying in a -stentorian voice, "I have it, I have it, I have it!" And the next man -answered, "What hav-ee, what hav-ee, what hav-ee?" Then the first man -shouted again, "A neck, a neck, a neck, hurrah!" This was the signal -for the queen to mount the "hoaky cart," as it was called, and the -procession started for the farmhouse. - -Over the borders in Devonshire, the custom of "crying the neck" varied -a little. The men did the reaping and the women the binding. As the -evening closed in, the oldest man present collected a bunch of the -finest ears of corn and, plaiting them together, placed himself in the -middle of a circle of reapers and binders. Then he stooped and held it -near the ground, while all the men took off their hats and held them -also near the ground, and as they rose slowly they sung in a prolonged -harmonious tone, "A neck, a neck, a neck!" until their hats were high -over their heads. This was repeated three times; after which the words -changed to "We have-'en, we have-'en, we have-'en!" sung to the same -monotonous cadence. The crying of the neck, as it echoed from field to -field, and from hill to hill, on a fine evening, produced a beautiful -effect, and might be heard at a great distance. - -A musical cry of this sort was also common in Norfolk, Suffolk and -Gloucestershire; but the words sung were "Hallo, largess!" One of -the men was chosen lord of the evening and appointed to approach -any lookers-on with respect, and ask a largess, or money, which was -afterwards spent in drink. Meanwhile the other men stood round with -their hooks pointed to the sky, singing: - -[Illustration: Music] - - Hallo! - Largess! - -In Gloucestershire, Ceres rode the leader of the Hoaky Cart, dressed in -white, with a yellow ribbon round her waist. - - The last in-gathering of the crop, - Is loaded and they climb the top; - And then huzza with all their force, - While Ceres mounts the foremost horse. - "Gee-up," the rustic goddess cries, - And shouts more long and loud arise, - The swagging cart, with motion slow, - Reels careless on, and off they go. - -Stevenson in his _Twelve Moneths_, date 1661, goes on to describe the -arrival of the procession at the farmhouse: - - The frumenty pot welcomes home the harvest cart, and - the garland of flowers crowns the Captain of the - reapers. The battle of the field is now stoutly fought. - The pipe and tabor are now briskly set to work, and the - lad and lass will have no lead on their heels. O! 'tis - the merry time when honest neighbours make good cheer, - and God is glorified in His blessings on the earth. - -In Herefordshire "crying the neck" is called "crying the maze;" the -maze being a knot of ears of corn tied together, and the reapers stood -at some distance, and threw their sickles at it. The man who succeeded -in cutting the knot won a prize and was made Harvest King for that -year. In the same county there was a rough custom of the last load -being driven home by the farmer himself at a furious rate, while the -laborers chased the wagon with bowls of water which they tried to throw -over it. In the more stately processions the horses that drew the Hoaky -cart were draped with white, which Herrick, the Devonshire parson-poet, -describes in his poem of Hesperides, 1646: - - Come, sons of summer, by whose toil - We are the lords of wine and oil; - By whose tough labours and rough hands - We rip up first, then reap our lands. - Crowned with the ears of corn now come - And to the pipe ring Harvest Home. - Come forth, my lord, and see the cart - Dressed up with all the country art. - See here a maukin, there a sheet - As spotless pure as it is sweet; - The horses, mares, and frisking fillies - (Clad all in linen, white as lilies:) - The harvest swains and wenches bound - For joy to see the hock-cart crown'd. - About the cart hear how the rout - Of rural younglings raise the shout; - Pressing before, some coming after-- - Those with a shout, and these with laughter. - Well, on, brave boys, to your lord's hearth - Glittering with fire, where for your mirth - You shall see, first, the large and chief - Foundation of your feast, fat beef; - With upper stories, mutton, veal, - And bacon (which makes full the meal;) - With sev'ral dishes standing by, - And here a custard, there a pie, - And here all tempting frumenty. - -The harvest supper in Northumberland was called the "Kern Supper," -from a large figure dressed and crowned with flowers, holding a sickle -and sheaf, which was named the "Kern Baby," and, being carried by the -harvesters on a high pole with singing and shouting, was placed in the -centre of the supper table, like the Devonshire and Cornish Neck. Rich -cream was served on bread at the Kern Supper, instead of meal; a custom -which was reversed in a sister northern county, where the new meal was -thought more of than cream, and the feast was called the "Neck Supper," -in its honor. - -There was one more quaint ceremony for the laborers to accomplish, -after the feasting was over, connected with the completion of the -rick or stack. This was formed in the shape of a house with a sloping -roof, and as the man placed the last sheaf in the point of the gable -he shouted, "He's in, he's in, he's in!" The laborers below in the -stackyard, then sang out, "What's in?" and the rickmaker answered with -a long harmonious sound, "The cro' sheaf," meaning the cross sheaf. - -It has been thought that there used to be one universal harvest song -used throughout England, but the words and music are not preserved as -such. Some curious songs are performed by the laborers, where harvest -suppers are kept up. A very popular one has a chorus ending with: - - And neither Kings, Lords, nor Dukes - Can do without the husbandman. - -The majority are drinking songs, and there is reason to fear that the -ale and cider that flowed at harvest-time, conduced in no small degree -towards the unbounded revelry of these old celebrations. - -At the same time the country people of England in the seventeenth and -eighteenth centuries were for the most part very simple and ignorant, -and their childish exuberance of spirits may have been but the natural -expression of life in a perfectly unartificial state. They were men and -women who could live for the hour while the sun shone, who could laugh -and dance like children who have no fear, and, as George Eliot says, -who "cared not for inquiring into the senses of things, being satisfied -with the things themselves." - -But the change was coming. The old women of Cornwall lamented loudly -when their sickles were taken away, and the corn was "round-hewed" by -the men with a kind of rounded saw. - -"There was nothing about it in the Bible," they said; "it was all -_reaping_ there." - -The round-hewing was but a step, to be speedily followed by the scythe, -and then by the steam reaper. And it often happens that the steam -engines do not leave the field until the corn is carried to a temporary -rick in the corner and threshed on the spot. - -Farewell to the Hoaky Cart, the crowns of flowers, the Kern Baby, and -the Cro' Sheaf! - -With the puffing snort, the whirr and smoke of the engine, came the -downfall of the ancient ceremonies. If the corn is threshed in the -field and carried away in sacks, there is no time for the triumph of -Ceres, or the decking of "Necks." - -The laborers are no longer "satisfied with the things themselves." They -are keen for the shilling they will earn for overhour work, and in -some counties prefer it to the gathering of master and men round the -harvest board; and the drink makes them envious instead of merry. - -Times are hard. The great iron rakes clear the fields and there are -some farmers who no longer say with Boaz: - - Let her glean even among the sheaves, and reproach her - not, and let fall also some of the handfuls of purpose - for her, and leave them that she may glean them, and - rebuke her not. - -It seems as though the old happy gleaning days were also numbered. -Those days to which the villagers look forward from one year's end to -another! The hour at which gleaning may begin is made known in some -parishes by the church bell tolling at eight o'clock, after which the -children troop off with their mothers to the wide fields. The sun may -shine with fierce August fervor, the children's arms and the mothers' -backs be weary to breaking, and the corn gathered be only enough for -two half-peck loaves--yet there are charms in the long days in the -fields, in the strawberries picked in the hedge, and the potato pasties -eaten under the rick, and when the church bell tolls again at nine -o'clock there are still many lingerers in the fields. - -The world is growing grave and old, and it is sad to think that many -of the simple old-fashioned enjoyments of past years are fading away. -Still there is another side to the inevitable law of change; for out -of the relics of the worship of Ceres, out of the ashes of the ancient -customs of revelry, a ph[oe]nix has arisen, grand and hope-inspiring, -and that carries back our memories to days before the Romans were -conquerors of the world, and when the most ancient of all nations, the -Jews, used to celebrate their yearly feast of Ingathering. - -When first Harvest Festivals in Churches were proposed they were looked -on with suspicion, for somewhat similar services had been swept away -by the iron hand of the Reformation. But thankful hearts and good -common-sense have worn out the suspicion, and the day comes now in each -year, when every Church in England is decked with sheaves of corn, -grapes, torch lilies, dahlias, sunflowers, and all the splendors of -autumn, and when glorious Te Deums, and hearty Harvest Hymns rise in -thanksgiving for the blessings on the fields. - -Once more the ancient cry of "Largess" is, as it were, revived. But -now it is largess for the poor, beloved by God, it is largess for the -suffering ones, who watch in pain, it is largess for home and foreign -missions, that all may be safely gathered in to the great final Harvest. - -It is also customary for a Festival to be held in the Cathedrals of the -principal county towns. And there are few nobler sights than to see the -Nave of one of these magnificent old buildings, on a market day, so -full of men and women of every position in life, that they are sitting -on the bases of the pillars, and standing in the aisles; and there are -few nobler sounds than to hear that mighty congregation burst into -singing: - - Come, ye thankful people, come! - Raise the song of Harvest Home! - - - - -XI. - -EASTER AT JERUSALEM. - - -AT no time is there more to be seen and done in Jerusalem than during -the Easter season. - -Then it is that the old city is crowded with pilgrims from far and near -and wears, in consequence, an appearance of varied life and activity. -Some of the pilgrims are Moslems returning from their journey to Mecca; -others are Jews who have come to see that the massive stones of the old -temple are being duly wailed over by their brethren; but by far the -greater number are adherents of the Eastern Church. - -Their purpose in making the pilgrimage is to anoint themselves with the -fire which, according to their belief, is sent down from heaven each -year at Easter-time to light the candles on the altar in the tomb of -our Saviour in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Can they but ignite -their little bundles of wax tapers by the holy flame and with it bathe -their faces and breasts they believe that all their sin-stains are -purged away. The great crowds of devotees become so wrought up with -excitement over this divine manifestation that it is safer for those -who would witness the ceremony to go to the church under consular -protection. - -Accordingly we assembled, about eleven o'clock on the morning of one -Easter Sunday, at the American Consulate and from thence proceeded, -with a number of fellow-countrymen, to the Church under the guidance -of the _cawass_, or consular servant, whose heavy staff of office--a -veritable drum-major's baton--inspired respect on the part of the -natives and opened a way for us through the dense crowds. - -Arriving at the Church we were led to one of the galleries which run -around the building in three tiers. The main portion of the structure -is circular in form, and in the centre of the rotunda is a small chapel -which, according to the tradition of the Greek Church, guards within -its walls the Sepulchre of our Lord. The entrance to this little -building is so lowly that one has almost to crawl on hands and knees -to gain admittance; and when once inside there is only a shabby altar -worn down by the lips of countless thousands of pilgrims, and shabbier -candles which make the atmosphere most disagreeable. - -From our vantage-point in the gallery we looked down upon a curious -scene. Men, women and children armed with little bundles of tapers -covered every foot of the spacious floor, save an aisle which a double -line of some two hundred Turkish soldiers kept open around the Holy -Sepulchre as best they could. The officers of the guard had difficult -work in preserving order. Serious outbreaks were of frequent occurrence -among the excited people which could only be quelled by a vigorous -application of the officers' rawhides to the backs of the ringleaders, -and, in some instances, a gentle prod from a soldier's bayonet was -necessary to remind the individual that he was forgetting his good -behavior. - -The space between the inner line of soldiery and the Sepulchre seemed -to constitute a sort of prison-pen, for here were thrust the most -turbulent spirits. In a short time an assortment of these leading -rascals was thus gathered together and, as might have been expected, -they soon began to make things lively among themselves; the result -being a vivid representation of pandemonium. In fact, rough-and-tumble -fights were now the order of exercises, for all were endeavoring to -elbow their way to a position nearer the chapel that they might be the -first to secure the coveted fire. Such was the conduct of the adherents -to the Greek Faith in their holiest sanctuary and at their holiest -ceremony! - -After waiting for nearly three hours, surveying the hubbub below us -which had been, if possible, increasing, we noticed an unusual stir; -and soon from one of the ante-rooms issued a procession made up of -priests bearing large banners of various hues, and numerous surpliced -boys swinging silver censers of incense, while in the centre of this -company walked the Patriarch of the church clad in robes of heavy silk -and satin richly embroidered with gold and silver thread as befitted -the dignity of the High Father. - -Three times this band moved round the Sepulchre while the crowds were -awed to silence by the magnificent spectacle. After the procession -passed out the pent-up excitement of the people broke out with renewed -energy and those in the rear redoubled their efforts to gain a front -place, for this pageant of priests seemed to herald the advent of the -fire. - -Soon two of the priests approached apertures in opposite walls of the -Chapel and through these received from the Patriarch, who had meanwhile -entered the Sepulchre alone, the heaven-sent flame. As the priests drew -forth handfuls of tapers ignited by the holy fire, the agitation of -the multitude knew no bounds. The great surging crowd seemed frenzied -in their eagerness to light their own tapers. The women and children -in the throng were entirely ignored and, as the stronger pushed them -aside, more than one went down and were trampled under feet. But -gradually now the divine flame was passed from one to another, those -in the galleries letting down their tapers to be lighted until the -whole church was soon ablaze. - -Strife and wrangling speedily gave way now to smiling good-nature, -and all were anointing their faces and breasts with the holy fire. -The dark recesses of the old building, which the sunlight could never -penetrate through the dingy dome, were lighted up with the flickering -glow of the little candles which, with the constant darting to and fro -at the flames, like so many will-o'-the-wisps, made up a weird picture -never to be forgotten. Soon, however, the smoke and heat rendered the -atmosphere intolerable and we were glad to elbow our way out through -the now happy throng to the open air. - -Such is the ceremony gone through with each year at Jerusalem. Many -of the people try to carry the fire away with them that they may keep -a candle which has been lighted with it continually burning, as it is -reputed to possess wonderful restorative properties both for body and -soul. - - - - -XII. - -THE MOQUI SNAKE-DANCE. - - -I ONCE attended an interesting Indian fete in the Southwest at the -Moqui (Moki) village in Northern Arizona. It was the strangest -spectacle altogether I ever looked upon, and was performed by Indians -who are perhaps the least civilized of any in the great Western -Territory. No words can fully describe the dance that was given. It was -a wild, weird sight and made one with delicate nerves uncomfortable, to -say the least. To the Moquis, however, the spectacle was the reverse of -unpleasant. An Indian never indulges in noisy approval, but he enjoys -laughing as much as a white man does; and in this particular dance the -performers were constantly encouraged by their friends. - -The Moquis are a people whose origin dates far back. How long ago -their present village was built no one can tell. That it is very old -is evident from the fact that in 1540 it looked exactly the same to -Coronado as it does to us to-day. He could not discover from the -Indians living there how long their town had been founded, and as the -people have no written history we can only speculate upon the age of -their houses. There are seven villages altogether and all of them are -built upon the very tops of high _mesas_, or table-lands, rising fully -six hundred feet above the level of a wide valley. The _mesas_ are -rarely more than forty feet wide and are so steep that to gain the -summit one has to climb a narrow footpath that has been hewn in the -rocky sides. The houses are of stone, cemented with mud, and are piled -together one on top of the other. - -The tribe is given a Reservation by the Government to live on nearly -as large as the State of Massachusetts, and on which they have perfect -freedom. They raise sheep and goats, and live and dress nearly as they -did centuries ago, and have but little intercourse with white people. - -An hour before sunset the Indians, robed in their very best, moved -toward the town of Walpi that occupies the western end of the _mesa_. -Following the crowd my friend C---- and I reached an open square formed -by the walls of the houses on one side and the edge of the _mesa_ on -the other. In the centre of the place stood a tall, tower-like stone -fifteen or twenty feet high and of a fantastic shape. It was here that -the dance was to be held. Every housetop having a view of the spot -was covered with Indians, and children had grouped themselves on the -ladders that lead from roof to roof. Making our way to a good place we -sat down with a party of the natives and waited for the fete to begin. -Far below where we were, lay the valley we had crossed, and in the -distance were the mountains of Utah and Central Arizona. It did not -require much imagination to believe ourselves standing on some high -cliff overlooking the ocean, for the valley was like the sea, and the -feeding sheep like little boats. - -This Moqui snake-dance is given once in every two years. Nearly one -hundred Indians take part in it and the custom has been observed for -many centuries. It is commonly supposed that the ceremony is a prayer -for rain, but why snakes are used no one surely knows. The reptiles are -caught during the four days preceding the dance and are confined in the -_estufas_ or council chambers until the hour comes when they are to be -used. Most of the snakes are "rattlers." Their fangs are not removed -and the only precaution the Indians take against being bitten is to -paint their bodies with a preparation that counteracts the effects of -the poison. At the conclusion of the dance the snakes are carried down -to the valley and allowed to go where they will, while the dancers -return to the _estufas_ and wash off the paint that has covered their -bodies. - -Directly beneath where we stood was a bower made of cotton-wood -branches. Soon after we were seated an Indian brought three large bags -and placed them within the bower. These contained the snakes. The man -had barely got out of sight before a party of fifteen Indians filed -rapidly into the square. All were naked except for short, reddish -tunics reaching from the waist to the knees, and their bodies and faces -were thickly painted in various hues. Each man carried a rattle, made -by stretching a piece of dried skin over a squash gourd, and a basket -of sacred meal, and several wore strings of antelope hoofs around their -ankles. Marching four times around the stone pillar, and shaking their -rattles all the while, the dancers stamped upon the ground as they -passed the snake bower and sprinkled meal upon it. After that they -formed a long line and began the rather monotonous dance and song which -is given in the same manner by nearly every tribe. The song consists of -a few words repeated in a sing-song fashion over and over again, and -in the dance the bodies are swayed slowly back and forth and the feet -alternately lifted a few inches from the ground. - -While this dance was being given a second party, dressed as those who -had first appeared, and numbering fifty-seven men, marched into view -and began their walk around the stone. These were the snake-dancers, -and their coming was hailed with great joy by the assembled -spectators. Instead of rattles were carried little wands made of -eagle feathers which were moved rapidly through the air in imitation -of the hissing of serpents. The men looked wild and sober, as though -frightened at the prospect before them, and their faces were blackened -and painted beyond all recognition. During the march around the stone -pillar a party of maidens, each one wearing a bright red shawl and -having her face thickly powdered, grouped themselves near the dancers -and stood ready to sprinkle them with the meal which they carried in -baskets. - -Finishing the march both parties formed into two parallel lines near -the bower of cotton-wood boughs and indulged in a grand song and dance -which appeared to carry not only the performers but the dancers to -the highest pitch of excitement. At its conclusion an old man stepped -before the snakes and chanted a prayer, which he had barely finished -before there was an unruly rush made for the bower. Reaching their -hands into the place each man quickly reappeared with a hissing, -squirming, biting snake, which he immediately placed between his teeth -while beginning once more his walk around the open square. In time -fully forty men had each his snake, and the scene became intensely -hideous. At the side of each dancer walked an attendant who tickled -the snake's head with his wand of eagle feathers, but in spite of this -soothing caress the serpents made savage attempts to bite and get away. -One man had his cheek severely bitten and another his hand, while often -a snake would coil its body around the neck of its tormentor so that -it would have to be unwound by main force. We were glad to be as high -above the dancers as we were, for at times a snake would escape and go -darting off among the spectators, to their great confusion. The girls -who were throwing sacred meal upon the men were often so frightened -that they made frantic rushes to get away, but when the snake had been -caught, they returned again to their places. For fully half an hour -the strange dance was continued, the men holding the snakes growing -more excited every moment, and the members of the first party that had -appeared giving new life to their song, which was continued without -interruption all the while. - -At last, perspiring, bitten, excited until their eyes gleamed, the -men threw the snakes together into a common pile in the centre of the -square, where they formed a hideous mound of squirming forms. Then at -a signal, a second scramble took place, and in a moment the pile had -disappeared and every dancer held in his hands a reptile with which he -ran swiftly down the trail and out into the valley, madly leaping down -the narrow path, and later hurrying over the valley, dropping as they -ran, the snakes they carried. - -By this time the sun had set. Waiting only long enough to watch the men -come slowly back to their _estufas_, we left our housetop and were soon -riding slowly away. For another two years the snakes in the vicinity -of the Moqui village will go unmolested along their way. At the end of -that time some of them probably will figure again in the dance which -some strange decree has ordered. - - - - -_Classified List.--Pansy._ - -THE PANSY BOOKS. - - -There are substantial reasons for the great popularity of the "Pansy -Books," and foremost among these is their truth to nature and to life. -The genuineness of the types of character which they portray is indeed -remarkable. - -"Her stories move alternately to laughter and tears." ... "Brimful of -the sweetness of evangelical religion." ... "Girl life and character -portrayed with rare power." ... "Too much cannot be said of the insight -given into the true way of studying and using the word of God." ... -These are a few quotations from words of praise everywhere spoken. 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In this graphically written -and wonderfully entertaining volume, boy life in the Navy of the United -States is described by a naval officer, in a manner which cannot fail -to satisfy the boys. - - - =HOW SUCCESS IS WON.= By MRS. SARAH K. BOLTON. $1.00. - -This is the best of the recent books of this popular class of -biography; all its "successful men" are Americans, and with two or -three exceptions they are living and in the full tide of business and -power. In each case, the facts have been furnished to the author by the -subject of the biography, or by family friends; and Mrs. Bolton has -chosen from this authentic material those incidents which most fully -illustrate the successive steps and the ruling principles, by which -success has been gained. A portrait accompanies each biography. - - - =STORIES OF DANGER AND ADVENTURE.= By ROSE G. KINGSLEY, - B. P. SHILLABER, FREDERIC SCHWATKA and others. $1.25. - -Fascinating stones of thrilling incidents in all sorts of places and -with all kinds of people. Very fully illustrated. - - - =WONDER STORIES OF TRAVEL.= By ELIOT MCCORMICK, ERNEST - INGERSOLL, E. E. BROWN, DAVID KER and others. Fully - illustrated. $1.50. - -From the opening story, "A Boy's Race with General Grant at Ephesus," -to the last, "A Child in Florence," this book is full of stir and -interest. Indian, Italian, Chinese, German, English, Scotch, French, -Arabian and Egyptian scenes and people are described, and there is such -a feast of good things one hardly knows which to choose first. - - - * * * * * - -Transcriber's Notes: - -Obvious punctuation errors repaired. - -Table of Contents: "Pgae" changed to "Page". - -Page 13, "chere" changed to "chere" (chere Madame) - -Page 59, "leve" changed to "leve" (Non, je me leve) - -Page 59, "m' habille" changed to "m'habille" (Non, je m'habille) - -Page 60, "couturieres" changed to "couturieres" (Les couturieres font -comme) - -Page 62, "chateau" changed to "chateau" (est dans son chateau) - -Page 63, "goutir" changed to "gouter" (their _gouter_ of a) - -Page 129, "pntting" changed to "putting" (putting up preserves) - -Page 129, "apprporiate" changed to "appropriate" (choice and -appropriate) - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Strange Teas, Dinners, Weddings and -Fetes, by Various - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK STRANGE TEAS, DINNERS, WEDDINGS *** - -***** This file should be named 44779.txt or 44779.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/7/7/44779/ - -Produced by Emmy, Dianna Adair and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) Music transcribed by Linda Cantoni. - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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